2015 Carnival Cruise Line ALASKA POC by Onboard Media

FUN ASHORE 2015 ALASKA SAILING SEASON

FUN ASHORE GETTING THERE WITH CARNIVAL CRUISE LINES

2015 AL ASK A SAILING SE ASON

KIDS RULE THE SHIP

Tons of Fun for the Young at Heart

Great Times

IN THE GREAT LAND

WHERE TO SHOP, WHAT TO SEE

starting on page

ROCK THE BOAT

JEWEL

and the Stars of

CARNIVAL LIVE

PLEASE READ, ENJOY AND LEAVE IN STATEROOM AT CRUISE’S END

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GOLD QUARTZ COLLECTION

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CONTENTS

2015 Alaska Sailing Season

Welcome Aboard!

A Message from Christine Duffy President of Carnival Cruise Line

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Fun Takes

Keeping Up with Carnival Cruise Line Finding your happy places, turning events into memories, and more news from the fleet

Kids Rule the Ship

Carnival has more options than ever before to keep kids entertained

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Rocking the Boat

Grooving on board like never before with Jewel, part of the Carnival LIVE concert series

Where the Wild Things Roam Your guide to wildlife watching 101

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Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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AVAILABLE AT: BLUE DIAMOND BY SHOPPERS PARADISE, INC. JUNEAU | KETCHIKAN

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CONTENTS

2015 Alaska Sailing Season

Life Aquatic Filmmaker and Free Diver Guillaume NĂŠry Explores New Depths

Map of Alaska

Your Destination Awaits

Juneau

Mendenhall Glacier and Juneau-Douglas City Museum

Ketchikan

Totem Poles, Clan Houses and Seeing the Signs

Skagway

The Golden Railroad and the Scoundrel Soapy Smith

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Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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1691 Michigan Avenue, Suite 600, Miami Beach, FL 33139 Tel: (305) 673-. 0400, Fax: (305) 674.9396 www.onboardmedia.com

Robin Rosenbaum-Andras Senior Vice President, Marketing Carrie Julier Vice President and General Manager Norma Vila Vice President, Finance Vikki Knudsen Associate Vice President, Operations Editorial & Design Elizabeth Fernandez Managing Editor Virginia Gil Moghani Senior Editor Lauramay LaChance Associate Editor Contributing Writers/Editors: Christine Blank, Andrea Carneiro, Richard Carroll, Lisa Costantino, Ginger Dingus, Nick Gallo, Janet Groene, Janette McIntyre, Stanton H. Patty, Jacquelynn D. Powers, Edward Readicker-Henderson, Patti Roth

Virginia C. Valls Beth Wood Dayana Ramirez Christian Rosario Raquel Figueroa Jose Cuevas James Perdomo Gail Abrams Violeta Manco-Rojas

Publishing Director Senior Art Director Associate Art Director Project Graphic Designer Project Graphic Designer Graphic Designer Production Coordinator Ad Services Director Ad Services Manager

Advertising Sales Anna Riekstins Director, International Sales & Brand Marketing Rod Musum Executive Director of Sales Tyler Condon Sales Manager Jeffrey Meister Sales Manager Lèmar Scott International Sales Coordinator Video/Film Production Todd Hedge Executive Producer Dan Shaw Director, Operations Kevin Maschke Senior Editor Juan Carlos Peña Director of Photography Dawn Minkow Assistant Editor Alexa Caravia Videographer/Editor Port Shopping Revenue Victoria Rossi Senior Regional Marketing Manager Jimmy Marks Regional Marketing Manager/Sales Manager Robert Yonskie Regional Marketing Manager Port Shopping Rachel Castro Director, Operations Rina Alvarado Coordinator, Operations Nadine Winter Manager, Customer Relations ©2015 Onboard Media. No claim to original works of Carnival Cruise Line or advertisers.

Printed in Canada. All articles, descriptions and suggestions concerning activities, tourist attractions and other vacation opportunities described in this publication are merely expressions of opinions by contributing writers, do not constitute the opinions of Onboard Media, Inc., or Carnival Cruise Line, and under no circumstances constitute assurances or guarantees concerning the quality or safety of any such attraction or activity. Onboard Media, Inc., and Carnival Cruise Line specifically disclaims any liability for damages incurred due to the attendance or participation by readers of this publication in any such activity or attraction, and the attendance or participation in any such activity or attraction shall be made solely at the reader’s own risk. We and our content providers (“we”) have tried to make the information in this publication as accurate as possible, but it is provided “as is” and we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from this information. Carnival, Carnival & Funnel Logo, Funnel Logo, Funnel Design, Fun Ship(s) and Carnival Sunshine are trademarks and/or registered trademarks of Carnival Corporation. Use of these trademarks without the express written permission of Carnival Corporation is strictly prohibited.

FEATURED BUSINESSES HAVE PAID TO BE INCLUDED IN THIS PUBLICATION THE 60-DAY GUARANTEE ASSURES BUYERS THAT THE STORES LISTED IN THIS PUBLICATION STAND BEHIND THE QUALITY OF THEIR MERCHANDISE. BUYER’S REMORSE, BUYER’S NEGLIGENCE AND LOST OR STOLEN MERCHANDISE ARE EXCLUDED FROM THIS GUARANTEE. MANY STORES IN PORT, INCLUDING STORES THAT DO NOT PARTICIPATE IN THE PROGRAM, MAY OFFER THEIR OWN GUARANTEES, BUT ARE NOT INCLUDED IN THE GUARANTEE STATED ON THE MAP.

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Ship’s Registry: Panama All rights reserved. The entire contents of this publication are protected by copyright. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner.

*THE FULL BUYER’S GUARANTEE IS LISTED ON YOUR SHOPPING MAP.

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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JUNEAU | JEWELS BY KRIS • KETCHIKAN | JULIE’S FINE JEWELRY | CARIBBEAN GEMS

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MESSAGE

MT ID S E HE PR

The name Carnival is synonymous with cruising, and we are committed to providing you with an unforgettable vacation. Welcome aboard! On behalf of all our shipboard and shoreside employees, thank you for choosing Carnival Cruise Line. Whether this is your first cruise with Carnival, or you have sailed with us before, our dedicated team will strive to make sure you have a fun, relaxing and memorable vacation. The name Carnival is synonymous with cruising, and we are committed to providing you with an unforgettable vacation. Guest satisfaction will always be our No. 1 priority. From our wide range of dining options and diverse entertainment choices to friendly, attentive service and fun-filled activities for guests of all ages, Carnival is dedicated to ensuring you have the sort of vacation you won't find anywhere else, on land or at sea. We hope you enjoy this issue of Fun Ashore, featuring informative and entertaining articles written by talented writers, with images by the best photographers in the business. Fun Ashore offers a wealth of information about the many fantastic features aboard our ships, as well as the exciting and beautiful destinations we visit. We hope this will serve as a valuable resource for getting the most out of your Fun Ship cruise. Wishing you a great vacation. Bon voyage!

Christine Duffy President Carnival Cruise Line

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PRECISION INSTRUMENTS FOR TIMEKEEPING

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Keeping Up With Carnival Cruise Line

PHOTOS BY: (DJ IRIE) OMAR VEGA/INVISION/AP; (DJ SET) MAXIM BLINKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

FUN TAKES:

DJ Irie has been spinning tunes for Carnival guests since 2011.

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PHOTOS BY: (DJ IRIE) OMAR VEGA/INVISION/AP; (DJ SET) MAXIM BLINKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

DJ IRIE

SPINNING CARNIVAL’S SOUNDTRACK AT SEA

Carnival DJs learn the tricks to spinning all the best beats at DJ Irie’s Spin’iversity.

Miami-based DJ Irie is more than just the official DJ of the Miami HEAT. He is the personal spinmaster to Jamie Foxx, an event consultant, a philanthropist and the man behind the music at Carnival Cruise Line. Named the official DJ of Carnival Cruise Line in 2011, this St. Croix native began spinning tunes on numerous sailings while expanding Carnival’s fleetwide musical catalog. His skills proved so popular that by late 2011, Carnival launched DJ Irie’s Spin’iversity, a pioneering two-week program that instructs the line’s spinmasters on how to keeping cruisers grooving day and night. As DJ RBK, senior instructor at Spin’iversity, tells his students, “I’ll teach you how to have the most fun possible, and be professional at the same time. We’re taking your DJ game to the next level.” On board a Carnival ship, music matters. Through Spin’iversity, DJ Irie has emphasized the importance of having a personable, proficient and positive DJ to set the right tone and mood, no matter the occasion. As he told the website Nightclub & Bar, “I don’t have a schedule where I’m able to be on every ship, though I try to be on as much as possible. Carnival loved my spinning style, so I work very closely to train our DJs to perform at the level I approve of personally.” DJ Irie or one of his protégés directs the musical programming shipwide, not just at the nightclubs. Spin’iversity’s philosophy is that the background music should always suit the space. On Lido deck, the DJs bring the energy during theme deck parties and sail-aways. During the day, they keep the vibe right with a wide variety of music for all, while unobtrusive ambient music at the adults-only Serenity retreat keeps cruisers relaxed and happy. The made-to-fit music is a hallmark of the DJ Irie brand, and it keeps Carnival’s DJs always on beat. — Lisa Costantino

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Fun Takes | Keeping up with Carnival Cruise Line

The only thing better than a soothing massage is a soothing massage for two.

SPA FOR TWO Body wraps, soothing facial treatments, hot stone massages… Carnival’s spa provides the ultimate in pampering. What could be better than enjoying it together? Share the delight with those you love most, whether it’s a manicure and pedicure with your daughter or a trip to the sauna with your best friends. Enjoy a romantic couples massage with your sweetheart that will leave you both utterly relaxed. If you’re planning an evening of dining and dancing instead, the salon can make you both look stunning, with options like expert hairstyling and a traditional barbershop shave. On select ships, you can experience a luxury retreat for two by booking a spa stateroom with access to the elegant, two-deck Cloud 9 Spa. Indulge in Cloud 9’s steam rooms, thermal suites and thalassotherapy pool, while ensuring you both feel your best by taking advantage of acupuncture and water therapy treatments.

The more celebrations, the merrier on board Carnival. During the holidays, the ships go all-out. Thanksgiving at sea includes a traditional turkey dinner with all the trimmings, without anybody worrying about who will cook or clean up. Throughout the Christmas season, expect to see decorated trees, wreaths and spectacular light displays. And during Hanukkah, participate in a traditional menorah-lighting ceremony every evening. Catch holiday movies on Carnival’s Seaside Theatre’s huge outdoor screen, enjoying tropical breezes that make winter frost seem like a distant memory. Personal celebrations are extra special on board Carnival, too. For birthdays, honeymoons and anniversaries, options range from booking a lounge for a custom celebration to arranging for stateroom decorations and special treats. And what’s a celebration without cake and champagne? Don’t worry. Carnival has plenty of both. There’s always a reason to celebrate on a Carnival ship. 26

PHOTOS BY: (SPA) WAVEBREAKMEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (CELEBRATION) PRESSMASTER/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

SO MUCH TO CELEBRATE

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It’s always a pleasure to wake up to breakfast in bed.

ROMANCE AT SEA There are countless ways to fill your days and nights with romance on a Carnival cruise.

Think of your time at sea as one long date. Start your mornings right with breakfast in bed. With 24-hour room service, sleep in as long as you’d like and enjoy a romantic breakfast for two whenever you’re ready in the comfort of your stateroom. Next, head to Serenity, an adults-only retreat where you can spend your afternoon in one of the shaded clamshell loungers, enjoying the soothing sea breezes and relaxing music. Slip into one of the whirlpools and order a refreshing cocktail from the attentive staff always eager to make your stay unforgettable. When it’s time for dinner, the more intimate, the better. Book a spot at The Chef’s Table for a cozy, multicourse meal limited to just 12 guests that takes place in unexpected settings like the library or the galley. Or enjoy a romantic dinner for two at the elegant

Steakhouse, feasting on mouthwatering cuts of beef cooked to your exact specifications. Afterward, head to the Piano Bar, grab a drink and sing along as the piano player performs your favorite songs. If you’ve gone past the dating stage and you’re ready to take the next step, there’s no more memorable place to propose than on a cruise ship. The jewelry experts at The Fun Shops can help select the perfect ring to win your honey’s heart. Then, for dinner, ask the maître d’ to help arrange a special surprise dessert — a covered dish containing the ring. Or do something truly different at SuperStar Live Karaoke and propose onstage while the band plays your song. With all the love on board, your next voyage together might just be your wedding cruise. And Carnival has everything you need to plan the perfect nuptials, too!

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Fun Takes | Keeping up with Carnival Cruise Line

THE CURE FOR WHAT AILS YOU Looking for the right prescription for a night of fun? Let the inventive mixologists at the vintage-pharmacy-themed Alchemy Bar, available on select ships, prescribe the ideal remedy. Distinctive, tantalizing ingredients like lavender syrup and butterscotch are blended to create uncommon, yet tasty, concoctions. Learn to make your own heady potions by enrolling in a cocktail class conducted by an onboard expert and earn a certificate once you’ve finished sampling your potent brews. — Janette McIntyre

SPICY CHIPOTLE PINEAPPLE MARTINI Ingredients • • • • •

2 oz. Skyy vodka 1 oz. Monin chipotle pineapple syrup 1 oz. pineapple juice ½ oz. simple syrup 6 – 8 mint leaves

GLENN PRICE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Step by Step Add all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake vigorously and double strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with mint.

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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Kids 2 to 11 will find plenty to do at the new Camp Ocean.

KIDS RULE THE SHIP By Patti Roth

From wild waterslides to the latest video games, the Fun Ships are packed with excitement for all ages. Carnival has recently rolled out plenty of imaginative features to redefine the way kids big and small spend their time at sea.

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Kids, and the young at heart, will love seeing Dr. Seuss’s timeless characters come to life.

WHERE THE OCEAN IS THEIR PLAYGROUND

While the beloved Camp Carnival will remain an option on most ships until the end of 2016, the new Camp Ocean will offer dozens of new activities. The 2- to 5-year-olds, aka Penguins, play creative ocean-themed games like musical icebergs and ocean bingo. The 6- to 8-year-old Stingrays and the 9- to 11-year-old Sharks can stay busy with video games, keep active with sea-themed relay races and other team games or even make sea salt art and design their own aquarium at the way cool Pirate Game Nights. Kids under 12 can stay up late at Camp Ocean, with Night Owls babysitting offered until 1 a.m., leaving parents free to dine, dance and play their evening away. Featuring a bright blue décor and sea-inspired murals, playrooms are designed to capture the beauty of marine life and the wonders of the sea. “Talking to our kids, talking to the parents, that’s how we came to this Camp Ocean theming — really listening to our guests,” said Caroline Lombardi, director of youth and family. “The idea of embracing the oceans of the world that we sail was obvious and came back to us very loudly and very clearly from all of our guests and our kids. It’s fun and engaging.”

WHIMSICAL WAYS TO LAUGH AND PLAY

Parents, flashback to your younger years and let the nostalgia flow, because Dr. Seuss is jumping on board with Carnival’s Seuss at Sea program. On select ships, the recently launched program, an exclusive agreement with Dr. Seuss Enterprises, immerses children and their families in the whimsical world of Dr. Seuss. The playful festivities include the Green Eggs and Ham Breakfast with The Cat in The Hat and Friends, where guests can order actual green eggs and ham, Moose Juice and Goose Juice, colorful pancake stacks and more. Don’t be surprised if the beloved Dr. Seuss characters wander over to the table to pose for pictures and sign autographs during what’s sure to be an unforgettable breakfast. The Cat and some of his pals, including Thing One and Thing Two, also take part in the popular Seuss-a-palooza Parade, which attracts hundreds of guests and flows along the promenade into the theater for Seuss-a-palooza Story Time. Youngsters gather at a Dr. Seuss-themed tent for a front-row seat to hear the beloved rhyming tales. “The parents act out parts and the kids act out parts, so it literally comes to life,” said Lombardi. Seuss at SeaTM & DSE © Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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Fun Ashore | Kids Rule The Ship

Club O2 caters to older teens with parties, dance competitions and DJ contests.

TEENAGE PARADISE

While the children play, tweens and teens can

brings late-night movies and dancing supervised

experience the ultimate hangout venues designed

by the staff.

strictly with them in mind. Circle “C,” for 12- to

Older teens will love the sleek, high-tech décor

14-year-olds, and Club O2, for 15- to 17-year-olds,

of Club O2. Teens start their voyage right with a

are designed as hip spaces where they can mingle

Welcome Aboard party and receive exclusive Club

with other teens on board, play games, take part

O2 gifts. They can hang out at Club O2’s legendary

in age-appropriate scavenger hunts, join a round

parties, which offer the latest music, while the dance

of dodgeball and participate in teens-only dance

floor gives teens plenty of space to show off their

parties and karaoke jam sessions.

moves at dance competitions. On select ships, they

Younger teens will love the fun and upbeat

can even sign up for classes at Spin U and learn how

atmosphere at Circle “C,” with flat-screen TVs

to scratch and mix beats just like DJ Irie, official DJ

showing their favorite movies and music videos and

of Carnival Cruise Line. Some ships also feature

gaming stations featuring the latest video games.

a touch-screen jukebox sound system that blasts

During the day, they can burn some energy with a

their favorite tunes and a photo booth to take those

game of basketball or dodgeball, while nighttime

popular selfies with all their new friends.

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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The whole family can splash the day away at WaterWorks.

WHAT’S YOUR ADVENTURE STORY? For the young and the young at heart who prefer daredevil thrills, the new SkyCourse is a must-try. This top-deck feature, available on select ships, gives Carnival guests a bird’s-eye view of what’s going on below. Slip into a safety harness and traverse an adventurous aerial course that includes rope bridges and suspended beams with views of the sea 150 feet below. For a splashing good time, WaterWorks, poised on the top deck of select ships, attracts action-loving folks of all ages with a variety of different waterslides for every level of adventure. Despite all the high thrills, pint-sized participants always seem to make a beeline for interactive, spritzing water toys. Be sure to glance up if the ship offers the aptly named PowerDrencher, an oversized bucket of water that is continually refilled before raining down on anyone who happens to be standing below. Bonus: This isn’t just for kids.

Experiencing the thrilling SkyCourse is not for the faint of heart. Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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FAMILY FUN FOR

EVERYONE

Carnival has always been dedicated to bringing on the fun at sea, ensuring that, at the end of the day, kids and parents alike have exciting stories to share. “Youth programs are something we do very well,” said Lombardi. “Bringing families together, as you can see, is a big theme for us.”

WHAT’S A PARENT TO DO WITH ALL THAT FREE TIME? With the kids happily busy, all you moms and dads will be eager to enjoy some precious free time to yourselves.

LAUGH TOGETHER

Take in a show. There’s lively musical revues in the main theater, including the spicy rhythms of Latin Nights and the swinging sounds of the UK in The Brits! The adults-only performances in The Punchliner Comedy Club will have you laughing along to hilarious comedians, some of whom may have been personally recruited by Carnival’s very own “curator of comedy,” funny man George Lopez.

DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT

Routines are fine for back home, but you’re on vacation. Do something different. If your usual workout is yoga, go for a run with a seaside view on the jogging track, or schedule a training session with one of Carnival’s fitness experts.

PLAY YOUR OWN GAME

If poker is your game, swing by the casino and try your luck on the blackjack table, or give the roulette wheel a go for that true Vegas feel.

MAKE MUSIC TOGETHER

Strut into the Piano Bar, pull up a seat and join the sing-along. And if you’re feeling bold, grab the mic at karaoke and belt out one of your favorite tunes.

ENJOY SOME QUIET TIME

Relish these moments alone. Select a book from the library and read the whole thing. The perfect venue for reading, or simply relaxing in the sun, is Serenity, an adults-only outdoor lounge with plush seating, shady umbrellas, whirlpools, bar service and soothing music. Go ahead and take a nap. The kids are too busy to interrupt you.

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Carnival LIVE | Rocking the Boat

THE BOAT By Jacquelynn D. Powers

PHOTO COURTESY OF RASCAL FLATTS

Carnival LIVE brings the hottest names in country, rock and pop on board for a series of exclusive live performances.

Rascal Flatts is one of the many acts rocking the boat as part of Carnival LIVE.

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Imagine you’re on board your cruise ship, rocking to the melodic music of Jewel or Jennifer Hudson. Except this is no DJ or prerecorded track. Thanks to the Carnival LIVE Concert Series, fan favorites such as, Rascal Flatts, Lady Antebellum and Chicago are bringing their award-winning sound aboard Carnival ships for exclusive performances.

BELTING OUT THE HITS Carnival LIVE kicked off January 2014 with a soulful bang: a three-song set by Grammy® Award winner Jennifer Hudson. “Performing live is one of my favorite things,” said Hudson during a special media event in New York City in support of Carnival LIVE’s exceptional onboard offering for music fans. “I’m excited to be part of this unique concert series that will allow me to interact with my fans in such an intimate and memorable setting.” Audiences on board share the R&B singer’s sentiment, showing up in throngs to watch Hudson perform during several highly anticipated, nighttime concerts on board Carnival Breeze and Carnival Ecstasy.

A SHOW LIKE NO OTHER PHOTO COURTESY OF RASCAL FLATTS

More than just a normal concert, Carnival LIVE takes place in venues so cozy and intimate it’s as though the artists are singing just for you. On average, the ship’s lounges top out at 900 people. Plus, there are no hassles associated with stadium shows. Parking, traffic, long lines? Forget about it! Instead, Carnival guests simply walk from their stateroom to the lounge for a so-closeyou-can-almost-touch-them show. For an even more VIP experience, a limited-edition package is available for Carnival guests (for an extra fee). Truly immerse yourself in the musical world with an artist meet-and-greet and complimentary photo and photo op, seating in the first three rows and a commemorative, laminated concert pass. It’s an interactive, unique and highly personalized encounter for true music lovers.

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Carnival LIVE | Rocking the Boat

MUSIC for Everyone Fans of all genres have been getting their dose of music on the high seas since April 2014, when Carnival LIVE launched aboard Carnival Fantasy with sold-out performances by world-famous band Styx — singing hits like “Lady,” “Too Much Time on My Hands” and, most appropriately, “Come Sail Away.” Tommy Shaw, the act’s longtime guitarist, noted: “All I know is our boats were rockin’. We had a great time and it looked like our fans loved it, too.” The inaugural year has featured plenty of Seventies and Eighties sing-along favorites, including Chicago, Foreigner, 38 Special, REO Speedwagon and Kansas. If singer-songwriters are more your thing, noteworthy performers such as Jewel, Olivia Newton-John and Gavin DeGraw have also belted out their top hits on the high seas. While country music fans jammed to performances by chart-busters Lady Antebellum, LeAnn Rimes, Martina McBride and Trace Adkins. Itineraries available for future musical adventures include Cozumel, Mexico; Nassau, Bahamas; and Catalina Island, California. These heavy-hitting headliners join the ship while in port, perform in the main show lounge that night and disembark following the concert. But the musical fun doesn’t end there. Even after Jewel, Chicago or your other favorite Carnival LIVE artist debarks, there will be plenty of opportunities to rock out. Carnival’s dedication to providing the best music at sea is present everywhere — from shipboard house bands boosted by elaborate choreography and diverse set lists to theme-specific costumes and increased audience interaction. So you can enjoy the contagious energy of live music every night of your cruise. Tickets for the Carnival LIVE Concert Series can be purchased through Carnival’s online shore excursion system before sailing or on board (subject to availability).

FROM TOP: Martina McBride; REO Speedwagon; Chicago. 48

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Carnival LIVE | Rocking the Boat

Making Waves With

By Elizabeth Fernandez

SPOTLIGHT 50

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Known for heartfelt songs brimming with passionate intensity, Jewel’s music has served as the soulful soundtrack for millions, ever since the release of her first album, Pieces of You, just over 20 years ago. Jewel started playing guitar at 16 while hitchhiking through Mexico. Without enough money to return home to Alaska, she began playing on street corners, where she wrote what would become the very first single from Pieces of You, the raw folk song “Who Will Save Your Soul?” Her music tells stories, and her life has definitely been full of them. During a series of Carnival LIVE performances aboard Imagination and Inspiration in November, she entertained and captivated audiences with the tales that inspired her beloved songs, including the details from a day that began with a whale watching trip and ended with assisting the Mexican authorities on a full-speed boat chase and writing the heartbreaking ballad “You Were Meant for Me.” Carnival LIVE’s small venues — just 850 people were lucky enough to experience her most recent performances — let her connect with the audience in a truly extraordinary way. “I take requests from stage, but I’ve written quite a few songs over the years, so I often have to have the audience help me relearn them from the stage. It’s such a fun experience to exchange that type of energy back and forth during a show. There’s nothing else like it.” For Jewel, many of her personal stories are tied directly to her frontier upbringing. “Growing up in Alaska was a beautiful experience — but it was definitely a rustic lifestyle,” Jewel recalled. “We only ate what we could can or kill, used a coal stove for heat and had an outhouse with quite an amazing view of the Alaskan mountains. Being raised on a homestead in Homer taught me so much about life and had a great influence on my music.” While her journeys have taken her all over the country, and all over the world, she continues to make the trek back to her beloved Alaskan home, where her father, Atz Kilcher, along with her extended family, is currently starring in the hit reality show Alaska: The Last Frontier. “It really is the most beautiful place I have ever seen,” Jewel said fondly. “Alaska has such an abundance of natural beauty, culture and wildlife.” As for Jewel herself, she’s also currently starring in a reality series, serving as one of the most popular judges on the a cappella competition show The Sing-Off. And this year, Jewel fans can rejoice, as she’s currently set to release both a new album and a memoir. “It’s been great to focus my creative energy on writing this memoir and making the new record,” Jewel said. “My writing for the book reveals more about my life than I’ve ever shared before. I explore what it means to truly achieve happiness and find wholeness in being what I call a whole human.”

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Rascal Flatts

Cozumel

Paradise

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Rascal Flatts

Cozumel

Ecstasy

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Rascal Flatts

Cozumel

Breeze

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Styx

Nassau

Sensation

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Styx

Nassau

Sunshine

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Styx

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Fantasy

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Styx

Nassau

Ecstasy

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The Band Perry

Nassau

Sensation

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The Band Perry

Nassau

Fascination

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The Band Perry

Nassau

Magic

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Boston

Nassau

Sunshine

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Boston

Nassau

Fantasy

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Boston

Nassau

Sensation

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Boston

Nassau

Ecstasy

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Heart

Cozumel

Paradise

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Heart

Cozumel

Ecstasy

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Heart

Cozumel

Breeze

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CLOCKWISE: Grizzly bear standing on its hind legs in a snowy meadow; Bald eagle catching a fish in Alaskan waters; Young moose grazing on the grass.

WHERE THE WILD THINGS

Roam

By Lauramay LaChance

Soaring Through the Sky Bald eagles, the national bird of the United States, are far more abundant in Alaska than anywhere else in the country. With a gigantic wingspan of up to 7 feet and distinctive white heads, it’s nearly impossible to cruise to Alaska and not see at least one. Watch for the white “snowball” of the eagles’ head in the tops of the trees. Once you learn to spot them, you tend to recognize these magnificent birds of prey everywhere. “During the peak of salmon spawning season, bald eagles feed in droves of sometimes 50 or more out over the inlets,” says Michele Morris, one of Carnival’s onboard naturalists. Morris started with Carnival on their first Alaskan cruise back in 1996, and if she’s not on board, you can be sure to find one of the other naturalists to answer any wildlife questions you may have. Bear Spotting Bears, both brown and black, are typically solitary animals. Grizzly bears, the mainland subspecies of brown bears, are much larger than their black bear cousins, weighing between 500 and 900 pounds and having a more prominent hump on their shoulders. Black bears, despite their name, can range in color from a sandy blond to an almost 52

bluish shade of gray and weigh between 200 – 500 pounds. Black bears tend to live in dense forests, and there are about 100,000 black bears throughout the state. Grizzly bears typically live along Alaska’s southern coast, where they primarily feed on salmon. According to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, there can be one grizzly bear per square mile in portions of southern Alaska, especially in areas with plentiful food sources. Spotting bears is easier than you think. When you’re out on the ocean, look along the shoreline for shiny black rocks that stand out against the typical dull black rocks. Once you spot one, watch for any signs of movement. Typical boulders will appear dull, but a bear’s fur looks particularly oily, and that distinct sheen will stand out against the landscape. Once the salmon begin to swarm the rivers in late July through early September, many bears will move to the streams to feed. Just keep in mind that bears are best when seen from a distance. If you are hiking in bear territory, especially along a river teeming with salmon, make your presence known. “If you do come across a bear, stand your ground, wave your arms in the air and speak loudly,” says Dan Irelan, a park ranger for

DID YOU KNOW?

Grizzly bears have a better sense of smell than hound dogs and can detect food from miles away.

PHOTOS BY: (BEAR) DAWN WILSON PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (EAGLE) FLORIDASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (MOOSE) KRZYSZTOF WIKTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Alaska’s wildlife is unpredictable, captivating and raw, encompassing hundreds of species, ranging from determined salmon swimming up the rivers to spawn to the magnificent grizzlies roaming the untamed terrain in search of their next meal. The dream of observing wildlife in its natural habitat is what lures many visitors to Alaska, a state bigger than Texas, California and Montana combined. Every moment is an opportunity to see rare animals in their natural environment. Training your eyes to properly spot wildlife means knowing not just where to look, but how to tell the difference between the wild landscape and the wild animals.

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DID YOU KNOW?

PHOTOS BY: (BEAR) DAWN WILSON PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (EAGLE) FLORIDASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (MOOSE) KRZYSZTOF WIKTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Bald eagles in Alaska have been documented living as long as 32 years.

Denali National Park & Preserve. “I had a bear approach me as I was walking along a river. I stood my ground and eventually the big momma bear and her curious cubs turned around, leaving me with a racing heart and a good story to tell.” Moose It’s a deer. It’s a horse. No, it’s a giant moose! Unlike many of Alaska’s wildlife, these iconic creatures don’t stick to the wilderness. Moose seem to appear when you least expect them, whether prancing through the parking lot as you’re hopping on a tour bus or simply standing in a small pond by the side of the road, sipping the cool water as cars pass by. Alaska has anywhere from 175,000 to 200,000 of these longlegged mammals. They’re frequently seen in areas that have been recently affected by forest fires and along the major rivers of Southcentral and Interior Alaska. Their sheer size is hard to appreciate from a distance. A bull (male) moose stands 7 feet tall at the shoulder and can weigh up to 1,600 pounds. If that’s not massive enough, the bulls can also grow an 80-pound antler rack in a single summer. That’s about 1 pound of bone growth a day. It’s quite impressive to see how gracefully they move throughout the forest, despite all that additional weight.

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Caribou Caribou are one of the most recognized symbols of the great wild north. Much smaller than moose, caribou weigh between 175 and 400 pounds. They have the distinction of being the only member of the deer family whose males and females both grow antlers. They spend most of their time in the open country and have adapted to the cold, wind and snow of even the harshest Alaskan winters. Caribou are difficult to spot even for wildlife peeping pros, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible with a keen eye and a little patience. In the summer, caribou spend most of their time in the remaining snow patches high on the mountains. Keep your binoculars handy while scanning the spines of the mountains. Allow your eyes to adjust and look for out-of-place silhouettes. You just might get a peek of the elusive caribou. Mountain Goats and Dall Sheep Agility and strength are a necessity for these all-white mountaineering ungulates (hooved animals) as they spend most of their time clambering through steep and rocky terrains. Dall sheep and mountain goats look similar, but one look at

DID YOU KNOW?

Caribou and reindeer are the same species, but reindeer are usually privately owned and have some genetic differences.

PHOTOS BY: (SHEEP) CHRISTOPHER BOSWELL/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (CARIBOU) NANCYS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Dall sheep climbing high in Denali National Park.

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PHOTOS BY: (SHEEP) CHRISTOPHER BOSWELL/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (CARIBOU) NANCYS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Caribou bull near Mount McKinley in Denali National Park.

their horns and you’ll know which is which: Dall sheep have ram-shaped horns that curve on the side of their head, while mountain goats flaunt pointed horns. Though they have comparable body shapes, Dall sheep can weigh up to 300 pounds. Mountain goats weigh up to 380 pounds and often seem much bigger due to their long fur and fluffy beards. Peeping either of these two bovids will require a lot of neck bending, because these rugged climbers are high country dwellers. Dall sheep roam throughout every mountain range in Alaska. They tend to huddle in dry habitats in open alpine ridges, meadows and steep slopes. Mountain goats, on the other hand, are most frequently found in the southeast, where they feed low in the early summer and move higher as the snow melts. If Juneau is one of your ports of call, you’re in luck. Mountain goats were actually reintroduced to Mount Juneau in 1989 and have become a common sight since the early 2000s. From afar, both mountain goats and Dall sheep

look like small mounds of snow on the mountain, and you can easily miss them with the naked eye. Use binoculars to scan the cliffs, and you’ll realize that, yes, that mound of snow is in fact three Dall sheep resting, or a scruffy mountain goat browsing for food. If they seem to be moving swiftly up the mountain, pay careful attention as it might mean one of their predators, such as a wolf or coyote, is nearby. Like No Place Else The rugged wilderness may seem daunting, but the creatures that have adapted to thrive under its extreme conditions are one of the many reasons Alaska has enthralled visitors for generations. As longtime ranger Irelan puts it, “The amazing and unusual aspects of the far north — the midnight sun, vast spaces and incredible mountain surroundings, winters of darkness and solitude, northern lights — each continue to inspire me. Even the feel of the forest and the air itself is almost indescribable.”

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF BALL WATCHES

Life

AQUATIC World-champion free diver — and filmmaker — Guillaume Néry takes exploration to new depths. By Andrea Carneiro

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Life Aquatic | Guillaume Néry

a “It’sfeeling you won’t find anywhere else on Earth. It’s magical.

“

It should come as no surprise to those familiar with famed French free diver Guillaume Néry that prior to discovering the sport that would consume much of his adult life, his childhood fantasy held a similar theme. “My dream as a kid was to become an astronaut,” says the 32-year-old world champion. “Only a few people have the chance to pursue this dream. Today I know that I wouldn’t have been selected because of my sight.” Vision aside, his passion for exploring the unknown has driven Néry to aquatic depths spanning the globe, eventually reaching a personal best of -125 meters during training in Greece last year. But, he admits, numbers aren’t what push him to dive. “Back a few years ago, my goal was to go farther and farther, to beat as many records as possible,” he says. “Today, my vision is different. My passion toward exploration remains the same, but I don’t have an exact number in my head. One more meter would already be a step in the unknown. It’s fascinating.” Equally intriguing is the simplistic precision with which Néry approaches the sport, a form of underwater diving in which the diver attempts to reach great depths on a single breath. Outfitted in only a diving suit, mask, nose clip, Ball diver watch and monofin (a singular fin that fits both feet), he dives connected to a tether, which can pull him up should anything go awry. Basic equipment and physical prowess aside, though, it’s the mental aspect that Néry says requires the most training. “When I dive, I only send my physical body in the water. My mind already knows exactly what is going to happen,” he explains. “I’m extremely focused and completely relaxed. When I reach a certain depth, I get hallucinations, a phenomenon called narcosis.” That phenomenon inspired Narcose, a film created by Néry and his partner, free diver Julie Gautier, about narcosis — also known as “rapture of the deep” — in which the diver’s nervous system begins to feel the effects of excess nitrogen, impairing judgment and delaying physical responses much like a narcotic would.

THE MINUTE MAN As a Ball ambassador, Néry shares his experience in diving with the watchmaking team and they collaborate on design and features.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF BALL WATCHES

In addition to Narcose, Néry has collaborated on several other creative endeavors, including documentaries such as the extreme sport-focused Attention, A Life in Extremes and La Traversée des Mondes, which explored a dive in the heart of the Yucatan. Calling free diving and art “my two passions,” Néry’s future projects include a movie series and a cinema-style documentary in which he’ll guide viewers — meter for meter — on a complete free dive. All of this is a far cry from Néry’s beginnings, where the loss of a breath-holding contest with a friend inspired his future. “He won, and this annoyed me,” recalls Néry. “After that, I trained myself a lot. After four weeks, I was able to hold my breath for four to five minutes. At the same period, I met Claude Chapuis, my future diving mentor, who taught me everything [I know].” Today, Néry spends his days training, traveling and spending time at home in Nice with Gautier and their daughter Maï-Lou, balancing preparing for conferences and promoting and producing new films with family dinners and school pickups. (“It’s a good mix, a balance that suits me pretty well.”) His passion for the deep is apparent still, having wandered off what he calls “the common path” to pursue a life, and occupation, that few can. “Diving in the unknown [keeps me going],” says Néry. “Discovering unexplored areas with the desire of pushing back my limits. When I dive, I go so deep that I’m surrounded by only blue. You have no point of reference; infinity is almost within reach. It’s a feeling you won’t find anywhere else on Earth. It’s magical.”

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Style For All | Gift Guide

gift

GUIDE Precision timepieces and shimmering jewelry are the finishing touches for that perfect look. Here, from the top names in design, are the looks youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll love to have and give.

3 5

4 62

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1. Kabana Gold Quartz Collection pendant 2. Korite Solara pendant 3. Mark Henry Moonstone Collection ring

4. Orocal Gold quartz ring 5. Gift Collection Tiara diamond ring 6. Day2Night Reversible earrings

7. TrueLove Diamonds Infinity ring 8. Crown of Light Spark Brilliant ring

9. Mark Henry Celestial Collection

10. TrueLove Infinity Bracelet 11. Safi Kilima Nalah Masai Collection earrings

11 Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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Style For All | Gift Guide

gift 1. Zenith Pilot Type 20 GMT 1903 watch

GUIDE

2. Hublot Classic Fusion King watch 3. Shinola Runwell Collection watch 4. Raymond Weil Freelancer Collection watch

5. Philip Stein Round Signature Collection watch

5 1 64

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Brand

FINDER

Juneau

Ketchikan

Skagway

Blue Diamond

Diamonds International Watch & Design

Mark Henry Orocal Gold Nuggets Orocal Gold Quartz Philip Stein Raymond Weil TrueLove Diamonds Shinola

Diamonds International Watch & Design Crown of Light Day2Night Forevermark Gift Hublot Kabana Korite Philip Stein Safi Kilima Zenith

Diamonds International Crown of Light Day2Night Forevermark Gift Kabana Korite Safi Kilima

Regal Jewelers

TrueLove Diamonds

Tanzanite International Crown of Light Day2Night Forevermark Gift Kabana Korite Safi Kilima

Mark Henry Philip Stein Raymond Weil TrueLove Diamonds

Diamonds International Watch & Design Crown of Light Day2Night Forevermark Gift Hublot Kabana Safi Kilima Zenith

Crown of Light Day2Night Forevermark Gift Hublot Kabana Korite Safi Kilima

Diamonds International

Diamonds International Crown of Light Day2Night Forevermark Gift Kabana Korite Philip Stein Safi Kilima

Crown of Light Day2Night Forevermark Gift Kabana Korite Philip Stein Safi Kilima

Tanzanite International Crown of Light Day2Night Forevermark Gift Kabana Korite Safi Kilima

Julieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fine Jewelry Orocal Gold Nuggets Orocal Gold Quartz Shinola

Regal Jewelers

TrueLove Diamonds

Tanzanite International Crown of Light Day2Night Forevermark Gift Kabana Korite Safi Kilima

Alex and Ani Stackable bangles set

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FUN DAY IN PORT

Bring your Fun Finds Map into port. Tuck it into your purse or pocket and put the port at your fingertips.

CAN BALCIOGLU/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Your Fun Finds Map is available from your Fun Finds Shopping Expert at any of their live events or scheduled desk hours. Check your Fun Times for more information.

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ALASKA PORTS OF CALL Arctic Ocean

R U S S I A

Chukchi Sea BERING STRA IT

A L A S K A DENALI NATIONAL PARK MOUN T McKINLEY

•

Yukon COLLEGE FJORD

Bering Sea

•

KENAI FJORDS NATIONAL PARK

HUBBARD GLACIER

•

KENAI PENINSULA GLACIER BAY • NATIONAL PARK

Gulf of Alaska

Skagway Juneau

C A N A D A

• TRACY ARM FJORD

Ketchikan

IN S ID E P A S S A G E

Vancouver • Victoria • • Seattle

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PHOTOS BY: RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Ports of call | Juneau

JUNEAU 72

Alaska’s bustling capital and gateway to Glacier Bay, Juneau charmingly blends past and present. It’s a modern city built upon the tailings of an old gold mine. The city’s cosmopolitan style is evident in contemporary museums and office buildings, sophisticated shops and fine restaurants. Yet many are drawn to its fascinating history, which is lovingly preserved in and around its original false-fronted buildings and narrow, winding streets.

Wildlife and nature are major attractions. The area surrounding the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is a showcase for glacial activity and boasts a network of trails to explore. Juneau is home to 114 species of birds, all five species of salmon and several species of whales — not to mention brown and black bears. Ten miles outside the city, Admiralty Island National Monument shelters the largest brown bear population in Southeast Alaska.

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Glacier and snowcapped mountains in Glacier Bay National Park.

FUNTREKS

TOP SHORE EXCURSIONS Here are just a few of the many tours you can experience during your visit. See your onboard shore-excursion specialist to book today. Please ask about age requirements, physical considerations, proper dress and other details.

Dog Sledding on Mendenhall Via Helicopter

Guests fly over Juneau’s lush rainforest and glaciercarved peaks on the way to a dogsled camp on the Mendenhall Glacier. They can drive the sled team themselves or relax in the sled while taking in the scenery. The tour ends with the chance to talk to the team’s “mushers” and take photos with the dogs.

Four Glacier Adventure Via Helicopter

Participants take a helicopter tour over 65 miles of Alaska wilderness, where wildlife sightings may include moose, bears, mountain goats and eagles. They land and walk on one of the four glaciers they view. Sights include the Taku Glacier, the retreating Norris Glacier, the cascading Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier and the mysterious floating Dead Branch Glacier.

Best of Juneau

Guests travel by catamaran through Stephens Passage, where whales often come right alongside. At Orca Point Lodge on Colt Island, a feast is served before the return to Auke Bay and a scenic bus ride to Mendenhall Glacier.

Mendenhall Glacier & Wildlife Quest

Guests see Mendenhall Glacier and Alaska wildlife on a five-hour tour. In Mendenhall Valley, they pass Auke Lake and take a jet-powered catamaran through Stephens Passage. Wildlife sightings may include orca, humpback whales, sea lions, porpoises, harbor seals, bald eagles and deer.

QuickGuide Famed for: The “drive-up” Mendenhall Glacier, which survives from the Little Ice Age of more than 3,000 years ago. It’s a Fact: The city is named after Joe Juneau, who started a gold rush with fellow prospector Richard Harris in 1880.

Whale Watching & Salmon Bake Combo

Guests can spot whales on this excursion, which includes ample opportunities to view and photograph the magnificent creatures. After the experience, guests head back to land for an outdoor feast of grilled wild Alaska salmon and other dishes, followed by a marshmallow roast and a chance to tour the historic Wagner Mine.

Signature Souvenirs: Whale-themed gifts; gold nuggets; Native art from local galleries.

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DARRYL BROOKS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Ports of call | Juneau

Juneau from the Gastineau Channel.

PortView

JUNEAU Juneau is the only capital with a glacier in the suburbs, the only one where you can go from gourmet dining to whale watching in less time than the average network commercial break. The town was founded in 1880, after Joe Juneau and Richard Harris struck gold — so much gold, it seemed the veins would never run out. The works ran 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Meanwhile, the local Auk Tlingits, who had fished and hunted here for thousands of years, wondered what the big deal was and kept on creating some of the most sophisticated art the world has ever known. People still pan for gold at Last Chance Basin,

and the Native understanding of the landscape is still vital under the treetops at Glacier Gardens, which gives people a chance to see just what’s in the world’s largest remaining temperate rain forest. Head farther out, to the trails along Mendenhall Glacier, or helicopter up to walk on this huge remnant of the last ice age. Hop on a boat to view humpback whales feeding in the rich local waters — and you’ll still have time for shopping along Franklin Street, where everything from jewelry to the finest Native arts are just a minute’s walk from where the ships dock. — Edward Readicker-Henderson

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PHILIP STEIN Feel it

In Alaska, it’s Blue Diamond that has all the beautiful brand names you’re looking for.

Ketchikan: 400 Mission Street Juneau: 495 South Franklin Street www.bluediamondgems.com sales@bluediamondgems.com Toll Free: 888-205-BLUE

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Ports of call | Juneau

MENDENHALL

GLACIER

By Nick Gallo

Icy Beauty Mendenhall Glacier is named after Thomas Corwin Mendenhall, a prominent scientist who helped oversee a crucial survey that determined the international boundary between Canada and Alaska. Previously, the famed naturalist John Muir had visited the glacier in 1879 and named it Auk Glacier in honor of a local Tlingit Indian village. Muir called the glacier “one of the most beautiful of all the coastal glaciers.” More than a centur y later, Mendenhall Glacier still is one of the Inside Passage’s top natural sights. Like all glaciers, it can be enjoyed as a spectacle flaunting sublime blue colors and ineffable textures. At the same time, it also serves as a time capsule, an outdoor classroom showcasing Alaska’s extraordinary geology and climatic history. “This is a neat place,” said Laurie Craig, a Visitor Center interpreter. “It’s not just beautiful. You also get to see some very impressive forces that shaped this region.”

RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Juneau’s wonder offers a stunning trip back to the Ice Age.

The most accessible of all the stupendous “rivers of ice” in the Inside Passage, Mendenhall Glacier dazzles visitors and makes the region a one-of-a-kind destination. Known as “the drive-up glacier” because it can be reached by car, Mendenhall Glacier lies just north of Juneau. It is the best known of the 38 glaciers that are fed by the Juneau Icefield, a 1,500-square-mile expanse of rock, ice and snow. Bigger than Rhode Island, the ice field is a remnant of the Little Ice Age, a period that started 3,000 years ago and lasted midway through the 18th century. The ice field is perpetually replenished by annual snowfall that often tops 100 feet, with a buildup of snow and ice up to 4,500 feet thick. Mendenhall Glacier stretches 13 miles from the ice field in the mountains to its terminus at Mendenhall Lake, where the glacial face — half a mile wide, 100 feet thick and electric-blue — can be seen from a popular Visitor Center on the shoreline.

Blue ice pools on Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau. 76

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Every day can be an adventure. Sometimes adventure involves glaciers and kayaks, sometimes itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just about finding something beautiful. This promises to be a great week for both! ALASKA * MEXICAN RIVIERA * CARIBBEAN

Here it just feels right. Ketchikan

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Nature On the Move The glacier may possess a frozen, still grandeur, but it’s hardly inert, Craig noted. A dynamic, moving force, the glacier is the overflow from a vast ice field, slowly and inexorably drawn down by gravity from 4,500-foot-high mountains to its terminus near sea level. Moving at the proverbial glacial pace, the ice edges forward at an average rate of a few feet per day, taking more than 200 years to make the journey from upper elevations to the 220-foot-deep lake. “It’s like slow-moving lava,” said Craig. “It acquires wrinkles, crevasses and texture as it moves across the terrain.” Mendenhall Glacier doesn’t just move. It displays tremendous erosive power as it grinds through the landscape. Scouring debris from valley walls and scraping underlying bedrock, the glacier burrows deep, leaving enduring marks on the topography. Near the Visitor Center, the presence of grooved, polished rocks is evidence of the glacier’s sandpaper-like effects. The glacier is also responsible for the milky, gray-green cast that colors the lake, the result of “rock flour” deposited in the water when bedrock is ground into a fine powder. Like most of Juneau Ice Field’s glaciers, Taku being the only exception, Mendenhall Glacier is receding. Since 1765, the glacier has been in a slow, gradual retreat because its rate of melting has exceeded its rate of accumulation. In the 18th century, at its maximum advance, the glacier’s toehold in the valley extended from its present position to a spot two and a half miles downward. Today, receding ice has allowed land buried for thousands of years to re-emerge and begin a new, remarkable ecological cycle. At first, bare rock and soil are exposed, but lichens and moss soon appear. Then grass and shrubs emerge, followed by alder, willow and other deciduous trees. Finally, Sitka spruce, western hemlock and other conifers take hold, inaugurating the new forest. “These are stages of life,” said Craig. A husky sled dog.

BILDAGENTUR ZOONAR GMBH/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Ports of call | Juneau

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JASMINE GEMS AND JEWELRY 325 S. Franklin Street Juneau, AK 99801

Where the world shops factory direct Home of 14 kt gold and 1 ct tanzanite earrings starting at $89 Exceptional variety of whale tail pendants featuring the colors of Alaska starting at $24 Save thousands on pre-owned Rolex watches (Not affiliated with Rolex USA) The exclusive retailer of “THE GALATEA COLLECTION” of Diamond In a Pearl and DavinChi Cut gems.

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LOCAL TREASURES

Symbols of Alaska to Take Home and Treasure Claim your own piece of Alaska with a souvenir version of the state’s emblems. Look for a list of local retailers in the Juneau, Ketchikan and Skagway port of call sections. Fur Most people think of the Gold Rush when they think of Alaska, but the region’s first hot commodity was fur. Russian traders and Native hunters had their most profitable relationship in the early to mid-1800s. Gold The buzz started sometime after the U.S. purchase of Alaska in 1867. All-out gold fever finally struck in the 1880s. The precious metal was found in Juneau, on the Klondike River and on the beaches of Nome. Prospectors rushed to Alaska to find their own fortunes. Knives Hunters and other outdoor enthusiasts rely on their knives’ sharpness, but beauty also counts for at least one: the ulu (OO-loo) knife. It has been used for thousands of years, serving as a multipurpose blade used for everything from skinning animals to trimming blocks of ice to build igloos. The original ulu had a bone, ivory or wood handle, often embellished with distinctive marks carved by the knife’s creator. Masks Inuit masks are ranked among the finest tribal art in the world, traditionally worn by dancers in religious ceremonies honoring

the spirits of birds or animals that are hunted or need to be appeased. The Tlingit and other coastal tribes produce transformation masks with several faces concealed within a single face, while the Aleuts create bone masks worn at burials that are broken and thrown away after completion of the funeral rites. Salmon Many of Alaska’s Native communities rely on salmon as a food and an economic source, and the rest of the world has caught up to them. Salmon is an excellent source of omega-3 oils, the “good” fats. Alaska salmon is sold fresh as whole fish, steaks and fillets, as well as preserved in cans.

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Ports of call | Juneau

Totem Poles A traditional art form among Natives of Southeast Alaska, totem poles reflect ancestral pride by depicting the lives and history of the people who create them. They are carved out of huge cedar trees and often display carvings of animals found in the region, such as eagles, ravens, frogs, bears, wolves and whales. After they are erected, totem poles stand as long as nature permits, typically 50 or 60 years. When the pole eventually falls to the ground, it is left to decay or is used for firewood.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Gold jewelry; Ulu knives; Reindeer fur; Detail of a totem pole; Mouthwatering salmon; An Inuit mask. 82

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PHOTOS BY: ONSUDA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; BMJ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; SETHISLAV/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; GEORGE BURBA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; ANDREA IZZOTTI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; JOSHUA RESNICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Where to find local mementos in port Alaska Fish & Chips Company Alaska

Fish & Chips Company Juneau

Classic, pub-style wild Alaskan halibut and chips served up hot with a cold pint of locally brewed Alaskan Brewing Company beer! Sample our fresh seafood tacos and more right on the Juneau docks. Located in the big blue wharf building by the floatplane docks right on the pier. Open rain or shine from 11 a.m., seven days a week.

2 Marine Way, Suite 125 | 907-723-5935

Alaska Fur Gallery North America’s largest fur and leather manufacturer, Alaska Fur Gallery specializes in quality furs at affordable prices with “fashion that moves.” Our furs are the perfect gift to give or receive. If you don't know furs, know your furrier! Alaska Fur Gallery, master furrier.

359 South Franklin Street akfurgallery.com | 888-722-3877

Alaska Juneau Mining Company Visit one of Juneau's largest and most unique gift stores. We offer a huge selection of apparel, gifts and souvenirs with prices to fit any budget. Be sure to take a photo of the pod of Orca Whales suspended above the store.

425 South Franklin Street | 907-463-5595

Alaska Knifeworks Alaskan Knifeworks is located inside the blue Merchants Wharf building on the waterfront, right next door to Alaskan Gourmet Foods and the Alaska Fish & Chips Company. Not just another souvenir store. Alaska Knifeworks, from their one and only location, can easily ship your purchase home, so be sure to ask about FREE SHIPPING! Look for their Alaskan caribou antler pocketknives, fillet knives and top-quality ulus you won’t find anywhere else. Sportsmen, if you fish or hunt back home, or if you know someone back home who loves the outdoors, this is a must-stop destination for your cruise. Alaska Knifeworks has expert staff on hand to help you. For easy shipping of high quality knives, binoculars for your trip and much more, be sure to visit this true Alaskan store.

2 Marine Way, Suite 114 | 907-586-1327

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Ports of call | Juneau

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SPEC I A L A DV E RT ISI NG F E AT U R E

JUNEAU FROM UP ABOVE

Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway

Ride Southeast Alaska’s only aerial tramway! At 1800 feet above sea level, the Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway treats you to Juneau’s stunning panorama. From the Chilkat Range to Stephens Passage, the expansive views are a photographer’s dream. The short ride to 1,800 feet above sea level is a breathtaking way to see the Capital City, waterfront and surrounding mountains. When you arrive at the Mountain House, enjoy dining with a view at the Timberline Bar & Grill, serving local seafood and a variety of dishes. Try our signature Crab Nachos, with locally brewed Alaskan Brewery beer. Then, “Shop at the Top” in Raven Eagle Gifts & Gallery, where you’ll find something for everyone on your list. Raven Eagle features gifts, souvenirs, clothing and original, Alaska Native made art. Meet master artist, Doug Chilton, who is carving a cedar totem pole in the shop. Then, visit the Chilkat Theatre for our awardwinning film on Tlingit history and culture, “Seeing Daylight.”

Outside the Mountain House, meet the Juneau R aptor Center ’s education eagle and have a personal experience with one of America’s great birds. The Nature Center’s knowledgeable staff can provide information about the trails, wildlife and environment. Interactive displays entertain and educate all ages. On Mount Roberts, you can hike wellmaintained rainforest and sub-alpine trails. Culturally modified trees are carved with traditional, historic images. Watch for songbirds, deer and marmots from the observation platforms. The interpretive signage and audio tour provides a wealth of information about the natural environment. Indoors or out, there is something for all ages, interests, and abilities atop Mount Roberts! The ADA accessible Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway runs every five minutes and tickets are good all day. Come and go at your leisure. See your Shore Excursion Desk for tickets!

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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june au’s top at tr ac tion

ride southeast alaska’s only aerial tramway to shopping, dining, hiking, Native culture & spectacular views high above downtown Juneau. See Shore Excursion Desk for Details — a t t he t op — Timberline Bar & Grill Raven Eagle Gifts & Gallery Nature Center: Trails & Interpretive Information Complimentary, Award-winning Film on Tlingit Culture Observation Platforms Wildlife and Bird Viewing Rainforest & Sub-alpine Hiking

gol d b elt tourism Mount Roberts Tramway is operated by Goldbelt Incorporated, Juneau’s urban Alaska Native Corporation. Goldbelt Shareholders are proud to share the Alaska Native way of life with visitors through their stories, song and art.

Watch local Native artisans at work when you shop at Raven Eagle Gifts & Gallery.

Timberline Bar & Grill—featuring Alaska seafood, locally brewed beers and a Dungeness crab feed in season.

The slopes of Mt. Roberts offer visitors a unique opportunity to enjoy wildlife, flowers and breathtaking views.

recipient of governor’s award for handicap accessibilit y

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Ports of call | Juneau

SPOTTING ALASKA’S Playful Giants

Where to find local mementos in port Alaskan Gourmet Foods Alaskan Gourmet Foods is located inside the blue Merchants Wharf building on the waterfront, right next door to Alaska Knifeworks and the Alaska Fish & Chips Company. This is the place for true Alaskan Surf & Turf! You’ll find a sea of smoked salmon and mountains of wild game sausages. High quality Alaskan flavors are what Alaskan Gourmet Foods is known for. Featuring wild king and sockeye salmon, local favorites, caught and smoked in the traditional way right here in Alaska. You won’t find any “souvenir salmon” on the shelves — this is where locals in-the-know get their smoked salmon! Caribou sausage is another favorite among locals, and a rare treat to take home. Stop by for free in-store Ulu demonstrations. Don’t be fooled by the souvenirs, get a true Alaskan made ulu. Don’t worry about traveling with your treasures, we can easily ship home these expertly prepared shelf stable products, and everything is fully approved for travel.

2 Marine Way, Suite 119 alaskangourmetfoods.com | 907-957-1870

Alpaca International Masterfully crafted in Peru and known as “The Gold Of The Andes,” our luxurious alpaca wool is 100 percent natural, hypoallergenic, light, warm and eco- and animal-friendly. Our sweaters, coats, jackets and hand-finished accessories reflect the craftsmanship and creativity of our team of artisans, designers and tailors. The collection comes in an array of natural and bright colors, with each piece evoking elegance, sophistication and impeccable tailoring.

210 Admiral Way \ 907-796-3877

Caribou Crossings Buy “Made in Alaska” products here! Showcasing over 60 of Alaska’s leading artists, they search statewide to bring you crafts found in this distinctive store. Owned and operated by a local Juneau family. Located in the golden-yellow building near the Tram.

387 South Franklin Street cariboucrossings.com | 877-586-5008

Global Communications Cracked phone or other cell phone problems? Global Communications repairs cell phones fast, and offers free long distance. We also have great nationwide and international rates. We are your home for cell phone accessories, including iPad cases, chargers, headphones, smart watches and other wireless products. E-cigs also available.

PHOTOS BY: AMI PARIKH/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

By Janet Groene

Every February, thousands of whales embark on their yearly migration from the sunny south to the crisp waters off Alaska. These majestic sea creatures have followed the same routes for millennia. Generations of whales have made the yearly trek north from their southern breeding grounds, and humans have often followed along. Previously hunted throughout the oceans, Alaska’s whales now attract more gentle admirers. Visitors who flock to Alaska rarely miss a chance to see these magnificent underwater mammals in action. Humpback whales are often spotted near Juneau and Seward as they visit nearby feeding grounds, unfazed at the ships passing nearby as they bubble feed, tail slap and sometimes even jump straight up out of the water, a spectacular sight known as breeching. One of the largest animals to have ever existed, averaging more than 40 feet in length, these gentle behemoths can be quite inquisitive and have been known to swim right up close and personal to passing ships. Minke whales, which are smaller than humpbacks but still average 24 feet in length, are often spotted in the same areas. While minkes are less inclined to engage in the same kind of aquatic acrobatics as their larger cousins, minkes remain impressive animals in their own right. However, not all whales winter in the south. Unlike their wandering cousins, Baird’s beaked whales and orcas live off Alaska’s icy waters year-round. Baird’s beaked whales, which can reach up to 40 feet long, are seldom seen, but orcas remain fairly common. Known for their distinctive black and white patterns, orcas (colloquially known as killer whales) can reach up to 32 feet in length. They’re most often found in the Inside Passage near Victoria, Seward and Juneau, where many pods of orca families reside. Common orca behaviors include tail slapping and leaping out of the water while swimming, known as porpoising. The brilliant white beluga whale also lives in the Arctic all year long, spending summers by the Alaskan shore as they follow migrating fish. They’ve even been found upstream, visiting the Yukon River in Alaska and the St. Lawrence River in Canada to gobble up salmon. Small compared with other whales, reaching just over 14 feet, slow-moving belugas travel in groups of up to 100, gliding through the water at only 5 to 10 miles per hour. There are plenty of other marine mammals to see, from the adorable black and white Dall’s porpoise to the massive 50-foot gray whale. Juneau offers numerous excursions that take visitors to the best whalewatching hotspots on ships ranging from six passengers to more than 100. However, one of the best ways to see Alaska’s whales is right from the deck of a cruise ship, where onboard naturalists know how to spot them from a distance and are happy to answer questions about whale biology, habitats and history. Humpback whales playing in the ocean in Juneau, Alaska.

323 South Franklin Street | 907-523-4800

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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LUXURY SWISS TIMEPIECES. AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR: Audemars Piguet, Ulysse Nardin, Omega, Breitling, Longines, Montblanc, Michael Kors, Burberry, Bell and Ross

401 SOUTH FRANKLIN STREET

2ND AND BROADWAY

JUNEAU, AK 99801

SKAGWAY, AK 99840

TEL. 907.586.4306

TEL. 907.983.3255

WWW.PRINCESSWORLDJEWELERS.COM

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Ports of call | Juneau

JOHN M. FUGETT/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Mining rail car.

Where to find local mementos in port House of Russia Discover Juneau’s rich Russian history! Explore the enormous selection of traditional handicrafts from Russia’s top artists. For over 25 years, the local owners have individually hand-selected every object in this store. Located in the golden-yellow building near the Juneau Tram.

389 South Franklin Street | 877-770-2778

Juneau Trading Company Located directly on Juneau’s new sea walk. Come enjoy a free cup of coffee while you shop. We promise to have everything on your list all under one roof, even buy a tour from the tour center.

720 South Franklin Street | 907-463- 4480

GOING FOR THE GOLD By Ginger Dingus

Raven Eagle Gifts & Gallery Ride the Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway and “Shop at the Top” at Raven Eagle Gifts! Enjoy breathtaking views, and then step inside Raven Eagle Gifts for Alaska Native fine art and gifts. Also find unique collectibles and mementos of Juneau.

490 South Franklin Street | 888-461-8726

The Alaskan Fudge Co. Fresh, creamy fudge made daily right before your eyes. Twentyone different flavors of fudge, caramel corn, cookies, homemade peanut and cashew brittle, ice cream, caramels, turtles, clusters and so much more! Family owned. Come in for the perfect gift!

195 South Franklin Street fudgealaska@gmail.com | 800-323-8343

Tracy’s King Crab Shack Tracy’s King Crab Shack

Featuring Alaska’s famous king crab from the Bering Sea, Tracy’s king crab bisque, NEW homemade crab cakes and more. Visit Tracy’s King Crab Shack and our new retail Shack Shop to celebrate our 10-year anniversary at our new location right off the dock. Reservations not required.

406 South Franklin Street | 907-723-1811

Gold, found in lumps the size of beans, put Juneau on the map. Until 1880, when Chief Kowee led prospectors Joe Juneau and Richard Harris to glittering riches, the remote wilderness spot was best known as a Tlingit Indian fishing site. Within a decade, the Juneau Gold Belt had become a booming center of hard-rock gold mining with miles of cold, dark tunnels blasted underground. By 1915, the Alaska Gastineau Mine and Mill alone crushed a record 10,000 tons of gold-bearing ore a day. The mine, one of the world’s largest, prospered until World War I called miners to the front lines. Postwar gold prices hovering around $20 an ounce soon forced the mine to close. By then, 500,000 ounces of gold had been recovered from 12 million tons of ore. Across the Gastineau Channel, the Treadwell Gold Mining Company helped birth a startlingly modern neighborhood with a dance hall, tennis court and indoor swimming pool. The houses had electricity. Treadwell’s mines went on to extract nearly $70 million in gold before their sudden end in 1917 when the swimming pool mysteriously emptied and the mineshafts flooded with seawater as a result of questionable mining practices. Today, visitors can cruise around Gastineau Channel on a replica steamboat to see the remains of the mines. The Alaska Gastineau Mine offers tours of its underground tunnels, while a marked trail leads through the Treadwell Mine Historical Park.

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Ports of call | Ketchikan

KETCHIKAN

Ketchikan is often referred to as the Rain Capital of Alaska, since rain often falls every day. But Ketchikanners don’t seem to mind. In fact, they proudly predict: “If you can’t see Deer Mountain, it’s raining, and if you can see it, it’s going to rain!” So be careful when you use the phrase “Save it for a rainy day.”

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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S h o p p i n g v i l l a ge i n Ketchikan, Alaska.

FUNTREKS

Magnificent Misty Fjords Flightseeing

Guests fly high above the 2.3-million-acre Misty Fjords National Monument, viewing areas accessible only by boat or plane. Sights include the 1,000-foot waterfall at Big Goat Lake; the lake was named for the mountain goats that can often be spotted from the air. The floatplane lands on a pristine alpine lake or remote bay.

Bering Sea Crab Fisherman’s Tour

Fishing comes alive on Aleutian Ballad, the vessel from the second season of the hit reality TV show Deadliest Catch. Bering Sea fishermen pull 700-pounds of king crabs on deck and tell tales of their watery adventures. Guests are encouraged to take photos of the catch, which includes king and snow crab, octopus and shark.

Flightseeing & Crab Feed RUTH PETERKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

A classic De Havilland Beaver floatplane takes guests soaring above Ketchikan and offers panoramic views of Tongass National Forest. They land at elegant George Inlet Lodge for a feast that includes smoked salmon and Dungeness crab.

Misty Fjords & Wilderness Explorer

QuickGuide Famed for: Totem poles; Native villages; the vast Tongass National Forest — the largest national forest in the United States. It’s a Fact: In the 1880s, pioneers came to Ketchikan to fish for salmon rather than pan for gold.

Explorers cruise to Misty Fjords in a jet-powered catamaran. In the Behm Canal, they stop to view the sights, which include: an active bald eagle’s nest; a Tlingit pictograph; ice-carved Rudyerd Bay; and New Eddystone Rock, an immense volcanic spire. On the return trip, guests experience Native culture from a Tlingit storyteller or Native artist.

Canopy Adventure & Wildlife Expedition

Participants glide on cables through the rain forest canopy of Tongass National Forest. The experience entails seven zip lines, 4,500 feet of hightension cables, three aerial bridges and a groundbased network of nature trails and boardwalks.

Signature Souvenirs: Salmon products; miniature totem poles; other items from the boutiques on Creek Street.

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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ALITA BOBROV/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Ports of call | Ketchikan

PortView

KETCHIKAN Ketchikan peeks out of the mist like a hidden treasure, and when the sun does come out, it shines on one of the prettiest spots in Southeast Alaska. As Alaska’s southernmost town, Ketchikan offers a taste of what visitors are in for — bald eagles diving into the Tongass Narrows almost every evening, catching fishermen’s discarded bait; floatplanes landing after a day of flightseeing to Misty Fjords; a landscape of endless forest; waterfalls; and the whoosh of exhaling killer whales. Walk along Creek Street, a former red-light district that’s now home to a line of boutiques just minutes from the dock, and check for spawning salmon in the waters below. Or

get adventurous and see what’s under the water. Ketchikan has some of Alaska’s best snorkeling. This is the best place in the world to see totem poles, whether you’re strolling beside the water at Totem Bight State Historical Park, admiring the antique poles at the Totem Heritage Center or visiting the massive collection at the Tlingit village of Saxman. Other regions have poles, but not this many — and nowhere else do so many people keep totem poles in their front yards. Totem poles represent history, a way of telling a story. Alaska’s story begins here in Ketchikan, under the totems’ watchful gaze.

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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Ports of call | Ketchikan

PERPETUATING A PROUD HERITAGE Story and Photography by Edward Readicker-Henderson

Today’s totem carvers add new faces to the landscape In the old days, a totem-pole carver might have to pay with his life. As far back as 500 years ago, the first thing visitors would see when approaching a village in Southeast Alaska would be a line of totem poles facing the ocean. One glance at the geometric designs would be enough to detect who lived in the town, what clans were represented and something about the people and their history. Totem poles were never religious objects; instead, they told stories, keeping the past alive. Traditionally, the Native men who carved the poles were the only people welcome in every village, and they worked hard for this honor. Entrusted with the memory of a people, carvers went through much the same training as a shaman. Then, before a village hired a pole carver, they’d make him pass the equivalent of a graduate-level exam on local mythology. It could take a year to carve a large pole and if, in the end, the carver got it wrong, if he’d done something that changed the story, his life was in the villagers’ hands. The Totem Renaissance While those days are gone, there’s a new generation — the new wave of totem-pole carvers. Working out of carving sheds in almost every Alaskan town of size, combining innovative styles with time-honored tools, they’re finding ways to tell the story of a region that is changing dramatically. They’re adding words to the language of the totem pole and discovering just how flexible that language is. The carvers are now making totem poles relevant to everyone, expanding their community to encompass the globe. The carving revival happened just in time. Totem poles nearly became extinct in the first half of the 20th century. Poles have a natural life span of about 60 years, and when that period was over, they were formerly left to rot and decay. Many poles were hitting this point right when the Canadian government was suppressing Native traditions and the Alaskan government was making a conscious effort to put Native culture on the back burner. Totem poles and Native art keep culture alive by telling stories of life in Southeast Alaska.

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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Ports of call | Ketchikan

The carving revival happened just as a new appreciation for Native traditions had begun taking shape. But the tide finally turned in the 1950s with renewed interest in local customs and Native rights. Today, the new breed of carvers reaches out to a new audience. Tlingit Norman Jackson of Ketchikan said he carves so “everybody [will] understand our people. That’s why I learned you have to share the art.” The first step was to bring the old poles back. Most carvers now learn their craft by making faithful reproductions of dying poles. Wayne Price, a Tlingit from Haines, and non-Native Steve Brown from Seattle carved five replicas for the Kik-Setti Totem Park in Wrangell. Tlingit Nathan Jackson of Ketchikan, Southeast Alaska’s premier carver, made a beautiful Masterpieces of expression.

replica of a pole taken from the region in 1899 by the Harriman Expedition, part of a turn-of-the-century pole rush, when museums and private collectors all over the world started grabbing poles while the grabbing was good. Adroit Artisans Poles have always been car ved from wester n red cedar, and most poles are 2 or 3 feet in diameter. To get that smooth inner wood, the carver must hunt through the old-growth rain forest for a tree perhaps three times that size, one that was young when British Captain James Cook sailed in the area in the late-18th century. After a century of logging in the Southeast’s forests, the biggest challenge facing the artisans at present might well be finding a suitable tree. Before carving begins, the log is cut in half and hollowed out to prevent the wood from cracking. Carvers could use modern power tools, of course, but they eschew them. Most poles are still carved with a

small hatchet, called an adz, and an assortment of drawknives. Even the paint jobs tend to be conventional, with pigments made of plants, charcoal and oxides. Using ancestral techniques doesn’t mean the carvers are adhering to the old styles, however. The new poles offer novel twists: a mirror to represent the sun and a Care Bear to please the carver’s daughter on Native Alaskan Lee Wallace’s poles outside Ketchikan’s Cape Fox Lodge; crossed flags of a state that didn’t exist when the first totems were carved on a Nathan Jackson pole at Ketchikan’s Totem Heritage Center; a stylized mother holding a realistic baby, both sheltered by a classic raven and frog on Nathan Jackson’s son Stephen’s masterpiece pole at Juneau’s tramway. The current generation of carvers freely mixes and matches old and new elements. The tale is more important than how it’s told, and though once limited by tradition, nowadays the stories are about anything from the record of a hunting trip

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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Ports of call | Ketchikan

to the report of a great vacation. A lot of recent poles are simply about the pole creation itself, focusing on who designed it, who was behind it and the community considering having a pole made a way to come together. Putting up a pole has always been a serious, expensive business. In 1879, the famed naturalist John Muir wrote, “The erection of a totem pole … is often talked of for a year or two beforehand [and] from 100 to 200 blankets, worth three dollars apiece, are paid to the genius who carves them.” Today, a carver can easily be paid upward of $2,000 per foot of artwork. Money is forthcoming. Towns are commissioning poles. Private collectors are putting poles in their houses, and no upscale establishment in Alaska is considered complete without a couple of poles. Worldwide museums are

commissioning poles, both replicas and originals. A pole raising still brings everybody out. It can take a hundred people or more to carry a big pole. In the past, the carver would dance, with all his tools hanging from him, while someone else told the story of the pole. Now, you probably won’t get the dance, but the storytelling remains the high point of the ceremony and the celebration goes on all night. No matter how the poles alter in form, no matter how the reasons for putting up a pole may change, the spirit behind the poles stays the same. As Nathan Jackson explained in a radio interview, poles tell “what we are, what we belong to, and what we’re born with.” They’re the faces of the coastal landscape, stories of the past and present given to the future.

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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Ports of call | Ketchikan

SPEC I A L A DV E RT ISI NG F E AT U R E

BERING SEA CRAB FISHERMEN'S TOUR

and the fun. Take this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to sail aboard a real Alaskan crabbing vessel and to experience what few ever have. Since its inception in 2008, this tour has won “Tour of the Year” seven years running. It is one of the top-rated tours on cruise lines and is one of the most lauded excursions on travel websites. Customer service is a top priority with this company and guests will not be disappointed. Be prepared with your cameras to capture amazing photos of the beautiful Alaskan wilderness and enjoy some of the best wildlife viewing in the world. No other tour offers this experience, and for those looking to immerse themselves in the spirit of The Last Frontier, this is the tour for you. This tour is appropriate for guests with limited mobility as well as wheelchair guests. Minimum age: 5

CONNIE BARR/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

It’s the Alaska you’ve been dreaming of! Bring your cameras and prepare for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure as you cruise the calm, protected waters of Southeast Alaska aboard the working boat Aleutian Ballad. Fans of the Discovery Channel program Deadliest Catch may be familiar with this ship, as it was rolled over in a rogue wave during season 2 of the program. It survived that night and has now been retrofitted to welcome guests in comfort and style. On this 3-hour adventure, you will see the crew pull up a variety of fishing gear and pots filled with rockfish, cod, starfish, octopus, prawns, halibut and, of course, a variety of crab, all brought aboard for guests to see and touch. The eagle-viewing portion of the tour is breathtaking as eagles fly and feed within yards of the boat. The fishermen will share their tales of life at sea — the danger, the adventure

Colorful buoys 100

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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Ports of call | Ketchikan

Creek Street in Ketchikan.

PIXACHI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Where to find local mementos in port Arctic Spirit Gallery Specializing in authentic Northwest Coast and Alaskan Native art, Arctic Spirit Gallery is locally owned and operated. Featuring baleen baskets and basketry, walrus ivory carvings, whalebone fossil carvings, totem poles, Bentwood boxes, wood masks, Haida argillite carvings and a vast collection of Native art from Barrow to Southeast Alaska.

318 Mission Street arcticspiritgallery.com | 907-228-2277

Fish Pirate’s Gifts Argh, matey! Get your Alaskan Fish Pirate treasures here, including smoked salmon, ulus, jewelry and Fish Pirate Saloon gear, all with plenty of in-store specials. Enjoy your meal upstairs, and then join us afterward on the first floor. Think fun. Think adventure. Think Fish Pirate's Gifts.

76 Front Street | 907-225-2856

Global Communications Cracked phone or other cell problems? Global Communications repairs cell phones and offers cell service with ACS. We also have prepaid phones. No deposit, no credit check and no cancellation fee. We are your home for cell phone accessories, including iPad cases, chargers, headphones, smart watches and other wireless products. E-cigs also sold.

310 Front Street | 907-225-3549

Great Alaskan Souvenirs & Gifts Great Alaskan Souvenirs & Gifts is a locally owned and operated Alaskan souvenir and T-shirt store located next to the Salmon Landing Market. We offer shirts, jackets, souvenirs, salmon, unique gifts and much more. Don’t forget to shop in our fun kids’ shop!

330D Spruce Mill Way insidepassageak@kpunet.net | 907-247-1414

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SIGNS TELL STORY OF KETCHIKAN’S LIVELY PAST One of the best ways to take in Ketchikan’s fascinating history and culture may simply be a leisurely stroll around town. And now, thanks to more than a dozen informative signs placed at important sites throughout the city, it is easier than ever to learn about the Ketchikan’s economic, social and even racy past. The Ketchikan Historic Commission installed 15 signs on many historically significant buildings in town. The signs spotlight famous locales like Annie’s Place and Dolly’s House (both former brothels) on Creek Street, as well as the historic New York Hotel & Café. The signage project also recognizes some lesser-known Ketchikan gems like the former location of the once-bustling Ketchikan Shingle Mill. A second signage project resulted in five additional storyboards that feature the historic and present-day relationship between Ketchikan, salmon and the town’s fishing lifestyle in general. Signs highlight the earliest commercial canning operations (including Fidalgo Island Packing Co.), the location of the largest charter fleet in Southeast Alaska, famed Ketchikan Creek (once a summer fish camp for Alaska natives) and more. Signs can be found at the Mountain Point boat harbor, on Stedman Street near Trident Seafoods, at Thomas Basin Marina and at Knudson Cove Marina. All these signs are in addition to the stunning array of public art on display along the dock areas and promenades of historic Ketchikan. — Lynn Seldon

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Ports of call | Ketchikan

INTO THE WOODS

LEE PRINCE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The Tongass National Forest, encompassing more than 16 million acres, is the largest national forest in the United States and an integral part of Ketchikanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economy and lifestyle. Most people are surprised to learn that the Tongass is a rain forest, albeit a temperate one; there is no defined rainy season and rain may fall here every day. On the first floor of Ketchikanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Federal Building, the U.S. Forest Service Interpretive Center runs an excellent program about this natural wonder.

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Salmon is the star in our store

LEE PRINCE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

We sell and ship Alaskaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best hand-processed smoked and fresh salmon

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Ports of call | Ketchikan

SALMON CAPITAL of the World In Ketchikan, salmon is more than just a traditional food. It’s an iconic animal with a deep spiritual meaning for Native cultures. This legendary fish has played an essential role in sustaining local communities. Whether it’s attending a salmon bake, going on a fishing excursion or buying a piece of native art depicting the legendary salmon of Haida and Tlingit folklore, a visit to Alaska isn’t complete without connecting with salmon in one way or another. In honor of its past, Ketchikan residents have taken to salvaging and restoring historic totems, many prominently featuring depictions of salmon. Today, the city is home to the world’s largest collection of standing totems, with more than 80 totem poles depicting not just salmon, but ravens, eagles and frogs, along with other symbolic figures. The connection between Ketchikan and salmon is more than just spiritual. For generations, Ketchikan was a summer fishing camp for Tlingit tribes. The area’s fame as a fishing site grew, and in 1883, settlers from Oregon built a salmon cannery. Mining, timber and tourism have also played a part in building the community (which was incorporated in 1900), but it’s salmon that continues to feed Ketchikan’s stomach, as well as its soul.

PHOTOS BY: (SALMON JUMPING) SEKAR B/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (SMOKED SALMON) CLAUDE HUOT/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BEAR) JIM DAVID/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

By Janet Groene

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Sockeye salmon jumping up Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park, Alaska; Close-up of salmon drying on sticks; Alaskan brown bear with salmon.

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Where to find local mementos in port Ketchikan Mining Company Visit Ketchikan Mining Company for Alaskan gifts. We have a large selection of souvenirs, apparel, jewelry, smoked salmon and Alaska-made totem poles. Located on the cruise ship dock.

30 Front Street kmc@kpunet.net | 907-247-3444 | 888-994-3444

Ketchikan Souvenir & Candy Co. Located in the heart of Ketchikan, in the Clock Tower Building, Ketchikan Souvenir & Candy Company has a wide selection of Alaskan souvenirs, apparel, jewelry, smoked salmon and madein-Alaska gifts. Please come in and meet our friendly staff. We are proud to be locally owned and staffed. PHOTOS BY: (SALMON JUMPING) SEKAR B/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (SMOKED SALMON) CLAUDE HUOT/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (BEAR) JIM DAVID/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

300 Front Street | 907-225-1413

Scanlon Gallery See Alaskan art by Alaskan artists, including prints, originals, hand-crafted jewelry, gold nugget jewelry mined in Alaska, glass, soapstone, bronze, antlers, gifts and much more.

318 Mission Street scanlongallery.com | 907-247-4730

Sitka Fur Gallery For over 50 years and four generations, Sitka Fur Gallery has been a pioneer in the Alaskan fur industry. These family owned and operated furriers have produced a fine collection of men's and womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s garments and handmade traditional Alaskan accessories, with sizes ranging from petite to plus. The ultimate Alaskan gift!

312 Mission Street akfurs.com | 907-225-8870 | 888-649-3820

The Outlet Store Located steps from your ship, we are one of Ketchikan's exciting retail locations! We sell souvenirs and have a large selection of bulk candy and delicious homemade fudge. We also have a large section of Hatley pajamas for everyone in the family.

5 Salmon Landing #100 Wild male and female red salmon in river before spawning.

kmc@kpunet.net | 907-225-3008 Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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SPEC I A L A DV E RT ISI NG F E AT U R E

ALASKA’S LOGGING HISTORY

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production of planes and ships. After the war, Alaskan lumber was shipped to Japan to rebuild the war-torn nation. In fact, the Japanese market has consumed more Alaskan lumber in the past 50 years than any other country. Today less than one percent of the Tongass National Forest is set aside for logging. Ninety percent of the roadless wilderness remains untouched. All over the region, you can see loggers compete in small competitions and relive the good old days of the logging era. In Ketchikan, you can catch a live 75-minute competition between Alaskan and Canadian lumberjacks. Watch World Champion athletes, as seen on ESPN and OLN (Outdoor Life Network), compete in various events, such as log rolling, chopping, sawing and tree climbing. The daily show is hosted by the colorful Tale Twister, the camp cook who tells stories about these rugged men and their rugged land.

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MIKELEDRAY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

To their surprise, they found in the forests of Southeast Alaska some of the world’s finest trees; the wood was ideal for shipbuilding. The Spanish quickly capitalized on this bounty by harvesting and shipping the wood to Baja, where it was used to expand their ever-growing fleet of ships. The news of the 1898 Yukon Gold Rush set the stage for the construction of small sawmills throughout Southeast Alaska to provide lumber for the building of shantytowns and to fuel the boilers of the hundreds of steamships racing up and down the coast with gold seekers from the Lower 48. By the early 1900s, as the Gold Rush slowed, settlers focused on the vast runs of salmon in the region. Newly opened canneries needed millions of feet of cedar to build crates to ship the salmon. World War II brought another boom to the region’s forest industry. Alaska’s readily available Sitka spruce was the lightest, strongest wood known, a high-grade lumber used in the

KETCHIKAN VISITORS BUREAU

In the early 1600s, the Spanish explored the waters of the Inside Passage of Alaska in hopes of establishing trade relations with the natives

SPEC I A L A DV E RT ISI NG F E AT U R E

MIKELEDRAY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

KETCHIKAN VISITORS BUREAU

NUGGETS: THE NEXT BIG THING

Over the past 120 years, an immeasurable amount of gold has been mined in Alaska; however, very few gold nuggets weighing over 30 ounces have ever been found. One now belongs to David Conner. In the fall of 2012, Conner, owner of Orocal Natural Gold Co., received a call from an Anchorage area number. He was offered an opportunity that, in over 45 years of doing business in Alaska, he had never seen. The caller was selling a 30-ounce Alaskan gold nugget from his family estate that had been found years earlier. After careful consideration, Conner agreed to the sale. “You see, finding a nugget weighing over 1 ounce is considered rarer than a 5-carat diamond, so can you only imagine how rare a 30-ounce nugget is?” According to Conner, most gold pieces found are between one and two millimeters. Nuggets of this size can be bought at any of the Orocal Natural Gold Co. authorized dealers in Ketchikan and throughout Alaska. They can then be cut by skilled craftspeople into a beautiful piece of jewelry or as keepsakes to remember your trip to the Last Frontier. Conner is not sure if he’ll be selling “The Big One” anytime soon, but he hopes to put it on display at one of his authorized dealers to allow visitors a chance to see and even hold it. To learn more, visit www.orocal.com.

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STEVE ESTVANIK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Ports of call | Skagway

SKAGWAY

It was the birthplace of the Klondike Gold Rush, but Skagway was a much different place before gold fever struck. Only one family lived here, and there was only a crude trail over the White Pass. Native Tlingit people lived in the next valley at Dyea, where the traditional trade route over Chilkoot Pass led from the coast to the interior of Canada. Today, Skagway glories in its golden past with such attractions as the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, celebrating the Klondike Gold Rush through 15 restored buildings within the Skagway Historic District. And if you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel like walking, horse-drawn carriages will transport you through town in true 19th-century style. 110

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Cascading stream, Dewey Lakes trail.

FUNTREKS

Dogsledding & Helicopter Glacier Flightseeing

STEVE ESTVANIK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Guests fly by helicopter over Taiya Inlet as the pilot narrates the history of Skagway and the Gold Rush of 1898. They land at a dog camp and get to drive a team of friendly Alaskan huskies over the ice-covered glacier, or they can choose to simply sit back in the sled and take in the sights.

Takshanuk Mountain Trail by 4x4

This tour begins with a scenic cruise to Haines aboard a high-speed catamaran. At the Takshanuk trailhead, participants get an orientation in operating four-wheel-drive vehicles before setting off to explore the trail. On the way down, they stop at an exclusive mountaintop lodge to enjoy a warm fire, stunning views and a gourmet lunch before returning to Skagway.

“All Aboard” the Steam Train Adventure

All aboard the “Scenic Railway of the World” to enjoy views of mountains, glaciers, waterfalls and historic sites. Pulled by authentic steam engines, the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway carries riders in style on vintage parlor cars — with a champagne toast at the summit. Guests learn the history of the Klondike Gold Rush and of the historic railroad.

Ultimate Yukon & Railway Adventure

QuickGuide Famed for: An Old West atmosphere, with horse-drawn carriages and other symbols of the 19th century. It’s a Fact: The gold rush began here on August 17, 1896, when the precious metal was discovered in Rabbit Creek. Signature Souvenirs: A hand-painted miner’s pan; a replica engine of the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway; a postcard from the Red Onion Saloon.

Guests ride a motor coach to the top of the White Pass and into the Yukon Territory of Canada. They disembark at Caribou Crossing Trading Post for lunch and an opportunity to explore the mountainous town. They return by way of the historic White Pass & Yukon Route Railway.

Best of Skagway-Rail Summit, Trail Camp & Salmon Bake

Aboard an antique parlor car, guests travel the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway to Fraser, British Columbia, where they switch to a deluxe motor coach and ride on to the Liarsville Gold Rush Trail Camp. Guests enjoy a dramatized portrayal of Soapy Smith, the “uncrowned king of Skagway.” Following lunch, the saucy ladies of the Red Onion Saloon welcome guests back to 1898.

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BRIAN ADAMS/TRAVELALASKA.COM

Ports of call | Skagway

PortView

Main shopping strip in Skagway.

SKAGWAY Coming ashore in Skagway is taking a walk into history: Downtown hasn’t changed much since it first sprang up as a jump-off point for the great 1898 Klondike Gold Rush. Back then, thousands of people walked Broadway, buying gear for the trip north. Today, the false-front buildings are just as busy with art galleries and duty-free shops. Jammed into a tiny box valley, with glaciers shining on the eastern mountain slopes and the deep waters of the Lynn Canal reflecting the ice, Skagway looks like a postcard company designed it. Or maybe a toy train manufacturer. Each summer day, the beautifully refurbished

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White Pass & Yukon Route Railway runs excursions along trails originally worn smooth by the boots of would-be prospectors. You can still hike the Chilkoot Trail today, or just fly over the glaciers and rugged mountains in a helicopter and look down on the trail. In Skagway itself, almost nothing is more than a few minutes’ walk away. Stop at the Red Onion Saloon or Captain Moore’s House to see what life was like during the rush, and catch the Days of ’98 show at the Eagle’s Hall. Try panning for gold at the old dredge. Or just walk out to Yakutania Point for the best view of the town, the ships and the fjord.

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Photo: Keith Weil

Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, this narrow gauge railroad is an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.

ESPRESSO â&#x20AC;˘ GIFTS MEMORABILIA

Experience the breathtaking panorama of mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, tunnels, trestles and historic sites from the comfort of vintage rail cars.

Since 1898

CONVENIENT DOCKSIDE ACCESS See your Shore Excursion Desk to reserve your seat

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Ports of call | Skagway

The White Pass & Yukon Route Railway is recognized as an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.

A Railway

BUILT OF GOLD By Stanton H. Patty

Gold brought with it commerce and permanence; the settlers needed a way in and a way out. The line, the White Pass & Yukon Route (WP&YR), was completed in two years, two months and two days. Now the White Pass & Yukon Route’s narrowgauge railroad, headquartered in Skagway, is one of Alaska’s top visitor attractions. From May to September 2012, it carried more than 390,000 passengers. They got to enjoy breathtaking scenery outside and charming nostalgia inside. The polished green-and-brass parlor cars are straight out of the 1890s, boasting wide windows and comfortable seats. In the White Pass office, a fabulous handpainted mural depicting the colorful history of the WP&YR wraps around all four walls of the depot waiting room. Originally, the WP&YR covered 110 miles, f rom Sk ag w ay across t he lof t y St . El ia s Mountains to Whitehorse, t he capita l of Canada’s Yukon Territory. These days, trains run along the first 67.5 miles of track, between Skagway and Carcross, Yukon Territory. Rail buffs rate the trip as one of the great train rides of the world. At Carcross, a “golden” spike was driven into the ground on July 29, 1900, to mark the line’s completion. WP&YR officials and g uests gathered in Carcross on July 29, 2000, to celebrate the railroad’s centennial.

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Building the “Scenic Railway of the World” Gold was discovered in the Klondike country of the Canadian Yukon, almost 500 miles north of Skagway, near the end of the 19th century. The whispered word “Gold!” became a shout heard around the world, and soon the stampede was on. Thousands of hopeful miners poured through Skagway on their way to the gold fields around the Klondike’s nascent boomtown, Dawson City. There were two perilous gold trails from the Skagway area. One was the avalanche-prone Chilkoot Trail. The other was known as the White Pass Trail. Both ended at Lake Bennett, British Columbia, where the gold-fevered prospectors built crude boats and rafts to float down the Yukon River to Dawson City. Halfway around the world, British financiers in London were looking for ways to cash in on the Klondike madness. They reasoned there must be a better way to get prospectors over the mountains — and harvest a share of the miners’ gold. Sir Thomas Tancrede, an English aristocrat, was dispatched to Skagway in 1898 to explore the feasibility of building a railroad into the Yukon. Tancrede had a look around and decided that the mountain barriers were too high, the grades too steep. He was just about to file a negative report when Michael J. Heney, a Canadian railroad contractor, hiked into Skagway after scouting

LEE PRINCE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

More than a century ago, a railroad was born of a gold rush. Gold was discovered in the Yukon Territory in 1896. From 1897 to 1898, the stampeders arrived in Alaska en masse on their way to the Yukon.

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Where to find local mementos in port Alaska Fur Gallery

Alaska Fur Gallery is an Alaska-owned and -operated company, with over 79 years in business and over six locations to serve you. If we don’t have what you need, we will make it for you. Coats, hats, slippers, vests, souvenirs, men’s furs and more… We specialize in quality furs at affordable prices and we ship worldwide. If you don’t know furs, know your furrier! Alaska Fur Gallery, master furrier.

Fourth Street and Broadway akfurgallery.com | 888-722-3877

Alaskan Fudge Company of Skagway

Enjoy a large variety of delicious handcrafted fudge and confections at this locally owned candy store. Using fine ingredients, the Alaskan Fudge Co. of Skagway creates mouthwatering confections on marble tables right before your eyes. Looking for the perfect made-in-Alaska gift? We have a large selection of hand-dipped turtles, clusters, fudge, caramel corns and brittles.

Seventh Street and Broadway alaskanfudgeco.com | 907-983-2052

Aurora Yarns of Alaska

Featuring Alaskan hand-dyed yarns and knitting/crochet supplies. Qiviut 100% and Blend yarns as well as finished Qiviut hats, scarves, smokerings, gloves and shawls made in Alaska. New location Seventh and Broadway ON Seventh.

aurorayarnsofalaska.com | 907-612-0083

BBQ Shack

LEE PRINCE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The flavor of Alaska is brought to your plate at the BBQ Shack in Skagway with the daily Alaskan Wild Game Lunch Buffet, serving elk, venison, reindeer, caribou, grilled salmon or halibut and salmon or halibut chowder. Traditional favorites like BBQ pork, chicken, beef and baby back ribs are served throughout the day. Boxed lunches and a special dinner menu are also available.

Located in the Skagway Bazaar, between Fifth and Sixth streets on Broadway 907-612-0497

Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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FRANK CORTESE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; WHITE PASS & YUKON ROUTE ARCHIVES

Ports of call | Skagway

TOP: Scenic route detail; OPPOSITE: Builders braved dangerous conditions.

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the mountain passes around Lake Bennett. Tancrede and his companions invited Heney to join them for a drink at Skagway’s St. James Hotel. The men talked far into the night. Heney affirmed that a railroad could be built through White Pass. “This country needs this railroad — and I would like to be the man to do it,” he told Tancrede. “Give me enough dynamite and snoose [snuff], and I’ll build a road to hell!” Heney was hired, and construction began on May 28, 1898. But even as the first ribbons of steel pointed toward White Pass, trouble was brewing back in Skagway. At the time, Skagway was a rowdy town ruled by an outlaw gang. A visiting Canadian Mountie called it “little better than a hell on earth.” Robberies and murders were common occurrences. Honky-tonk pianos accompanied the crack of gunshots and cries for help. Jefferson Randolph “Soapy” Smith, a sometimes charming, always dangerous con man,

reigned over both Skagway and the gold trails. Local merchants decided that Soapy Smith and his gaggle of gangsters had to go. The Town’s Wicked Reputation The showdown came on July 8, 1898. Vigilantes gathered on the Skagway waterfront. Smith, hearing about the meeting, downed a glass of whiskey, then, rifle in hand, marched down the street to confront his foes. Frank H. Reid, the town surveyor, blocked his way. There was a brief scuffle. Smith shot Reid in the groin; Reid fired his revolver at almost the same instant, putting a bullet through the scoundrel’s heart. Smith died on the scene. Reid, mortally wounded, expired shortly thereafter. Thirteen days later, the White Pass & Yukon Route dispatched its first train on a 4-mile excursion for Skagway dignitaries. Two and a half miles out of town, the tracks meandered by the fresh graves of

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FRANK CORTESE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; WHITE PASS & YUKON ROUTE ARCHIVES

Soapy Smith and Frank Reid. Heney’s men continued toiling toward the White Pass summit. They hacked and blasted through the mountains with picks, shovels and black powder, sometimes dangling on ropes hundreds of feet above thundering rapids. They swatted swarms of mosquitoes in summer and endured winter temperatures plunging to 60 degrees below zero. The tracks reached the 2,865-foot-high White Pass summit in February 1899. And on July 29, construction crews coming from Skagway and Whitehorse met at Carcross.

Where to find local mementos in port Corrington’s Alaskan Ivory and Museum

“All Aboard!” Nowadays visitors are immersed in history as they ride the WP&YR train along the old rail trail over White Pass. While passing the Gold Rush Cemetery, passengers see a tall granite shaft over Reid’s resting place, inscribed: “He gave his life for the honor of Skagway.” Smith’s grave is just outside the cemetery boundary. The good people of Skagway were not about to plant his remains in hallowed ground, Skagway tour guides tell visitors. Just beyond the cemetery, the tracks rise quickly from sea level into the snowcapped peaks and blue-white glaciers of the St. Elias Mountains. The train weaves, climbs and grinds toward the crest of White Pass, looping across cliffhanging cuts with dizzying views of misty waterfalls and traversing granite paths where the boot prints of Klondike stampeders can still be seen. The stampede to the Klondike was a frenzy that burned out in little more than two years. But the White Pass & Yukon Route, a nugget from that epic Gold Rush, chugs along as one of the last remaining narrow-gauge railroads in North America.

Family owned for 45 years. Experts in walrus and mammoth ivory, jade, soapstone, artifacts, masks, totemic carvings and Native art. Beautiful free museum of Alaska history told on scrimshawed (etched) ivory walrus tusks. Come in and meet Trader Corrington, an Iditarod racing veteran. Next to the Golden North Hotel.

Third Street and Broadway | 907-612-0256

North to Alaska Gifts

Offering a wide selection of gifts and artwork designed and created by Alaskan artist and storeowner Tari Eagan. Featured items include limited edition Eskimo dolls, Nanook fleece wear, watercolor artwork, yellow cedar totem poles, razor sharp ulu knives and jewelry, all made in Alaska! Across from the Post Office on Sixth and Broadway.

634 Broadway | 907-983-3070

Northern Lights Pizzeria Northern Lights Pizzeria

Our large menu features fresh homemade pizza dough, mouthwatering pastas, local Alaskan seafood, authentic homemade Mexican dishes, fresh salads, burgers, gyros and daily specials. Beer and wine available. Open 10 am daily. Call ahead for takeaway!

372 3rd Avenue northernlightspizzeria.com | 907-983-2225

Olivia’s Bistro

Olivia’s Bistro is famous for garden fresh mint mojitos and handmade margaritas, along with fresh Alaska seafood and wild game meats. New for 2015 — Potlatch Lunch with great food and quick friendly service. Located at the Historic Skagway Inn, along the SMART bus route, on the corner of Seventh Avenue.

655 Broadway skagwayinn.com | 907-983-2289

Rushin’ Tailor’s Quilt Alaska

Featuring Alaskan themed fabrics in cottons, batiks and flannels. Locally designed kits and patterns for quilting, cross stitch, sashiko and needlearts. Visit us near the corner of Third and Broadway.

370 Third Avenue quiltalaska.com | 800-981-5432 Fun Ashore Carnival Cruise Line

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Ports of call | Skagway

FLORIDASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

SPEC I A L A DV E RT ISI NG F E AT U R E

THE SCENIC RAILWAY OF THE WORLD!

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Built in 1898 to open the Klondike region of Yukon Territory to gold seekers, the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway (WP&YR) — originally stretching from Skagway, Alaska, to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory — was completed in 1900, just before the end of the Klondike Gold Rush. It took the labor of 35,000 men, using only black blasting powder and crude tools to battle the elements and treacherous landscapes, to hew out the original 110-mile narrow-gauge line. The railway hauled freight and passengers for over 80 years, and was also an early pioneer of intermodal freight containerization. It closed down in 1982 after a dramatic fall in world ore prices. But WP&YR persevered and reopened its doors just six years later as “The Scenic Railway of the World,” providing rail excursions to visitors from all over. In 1994, WP&YR was named an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, joining the likes of the Statue

of Liberty and the Panama Canal with this prestigious honor. Today, guests experience the breathtaking panorama of mountains, glaciers, trestles and tunnels from the comfort of vintage rail cars. Hear a fully narrated tour of the White Pass & Yukon Route featuring tales of villainous gunslingers, good-time girls and would-be gold seekers struggling towards the Yukon, and see with your own eyes the untouched, pristine beauty of the Pacific Coast mountain ranges. Trips depart from Skagway, with many of the rail and motor coach combination trips featuring connections in both Fraser, British Columbia, and Carcross, Yukon Territory. Excursions are available between early May and late September each year and are geared around the schedules of all major cruise lines. The White Pass & Yukon Route is Alaska’s most popular shore excursion and a favorite on many Alaska/ Yukon travelers’ must-see lists.

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Amid thethe dynamics of of a new era, Amid dynamics a new era,Robert RobertHunter Hunter conveys a world that remains unchanged, conveys a world that remains unchanged,unspoiled. unspoiled. HisHis world is tranquil and richly diverse, world is tranquil and richly diverse,yetyetrobust robustwith with natural beauty. natural beauty. HisHis visual images speak ofof rural visual images speak ruralroots, roots,a asmallsmalltown heritage and connections totothe town heritage and connections theland landand andsea. sea. Communicating this is natural and Communicating this is natural andvital vitaltotoRobert’s Robert’s existence. His creations are messages that he sends existence. His creations are messages that he sendstotoart art lovers throughout thethe world. lovers throughout world. Robert’s artart reveals a vision ofof harmony Robert’s reveals a vision harmonyand andbalance balance within ourour world and within the universe. within world and within the universe.His Hisabstract abstract paintings include beams, arcs and paintings include beams, arcs andbands bandsofofmuted mutedand and dazzling light. They hint ofof opposing dazzling light. They hint opposingtextures. textures.Spectrums Spectrums of contradictory hues coexist compatibly, of contradictory hues coexist compatibly,synergistically. synergistically.

AA Special SpecialInvitation Invitation

WeWe invite youyou to to visit our studio invite visit our studioforfora aquiet quietpreview previewofof Robert Hunter’s work. Capture your Robert Hunter’s work. Capture yourtreasured treasuredmemory memory of Alaska in in anan original watercolor of Alaska original watercolorororsigned signedand and Proudly display inin your own numbered print. Proudly display your ownhome homehis hisvision vision numbered print. of America’s landscapes and seas. Share hishisgift of America’s landscapes and seas. Share giftofofworld worldpeace peace andand harmony. harmony.

750 750 Broadway • Skagway, AKAK 99840 Broadway • Skagway, 99840 888-877-5841 888-877-5841

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When you leave the ship, When you leave the ship,ride ridethe theSMART SMARTbus bustoto 750 Broadway. 750 Broadway.

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CRUISING THE INSIDE PASSAGE By Christine Blank

Shaped by massive glaciers millions of years ago, Alaska’s Inside Passage is truly one of the most scenic spots in the world, offering stunning views of dense forests, towering mountains, cascading waterfalls and majestic wildlife that includes whales, sea lions, bears and bald eagles

Seals hanging out on the rocks along the shore.

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The deep fjord passes through high mountains.

As you travel through the Inside Passage, wh ic h s t retc hes f rom P uget Sou nd , Washington, to the Gulf of Alaska, the scenery constantly changes. The route includes nearly 1,000 tiny islands and passes by serene shorelines that give way to massive walls of forested mountains, sparkling rivers and dazzling glaciers. When disembarking at port cities — including British-influenced Victoria, BC, in Canada, as well as Skagway, Ketchikan and Juneau — you’ll have the opportunity to explore the spectacular sites further inland. Highlights include landlocked glaciers such as the half-mile-wide Mendenhall Glacier, botanical gardens, national parks, historic totem poles and myriad natural wonders — all alongside modern cities filled with shopping and attractions. Natives, including the Haida, Tlingit and Tsimshian, first settled this gorgeous region hundreds of years ago. They often used the area as a summer fishing camp. However, they weren’t the only early settlers in the area. By 1741, Russian explorers, led by Vitus Bering, discovered the Inside Passage for themselves. Russian pioneers built and sailed ships, farmed, fished, logged, mined, whaled and operated sawmills, but the main draw was the

PHOTOS BY: MISHELLA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; CALEB FOSTER/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Ports of call | Skagway

fur trade. Russian hunters quickly realized that the wide variety of animals in the region produced valuable furs that they could trade with Chinese merchants for silk, spices and tea. Between 1743 and 1799, more than 100 Russian fur-hunting expeditions sailed into Alaskan waters, returning with 187,000 pelts worth more than $6 million, a hefty sum at the time. At first, they hired Natives as experienced hunters and guides, but before long, the Russians began enslaving the indigenous population, especially the Aleuts. In the end, the Natives revolted against their unjust treatment and won their freedom back. Today, all along the Inside Passage, you can see many examples of Russian culture. The original Russian settlers left behind beautiful cathedrals such as St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral in Sitka, as well as historic sawmills, canneries and other buildings left over from this era. Native populations maintain a strong presence in the Inside Passage, having a direct influence on the culture of a region many still call home. They have also continued the tradition of crafting stunning totem poles, including some of the largest and oldest collections of totems in the world at Potlatch Totem Park in Ketchikan and Sitka National Historic Park.

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Where to find local mementos in port Skagway Brewing Co.

Drink a piece of history when you visit Skagway Brewing Co. A popular hangout for thirsty prospectors as early as 1897, Skagway Brewing continues to brew fresh, unfiltered ales and serve delicious pub fare, including local salmon and halibut fish and chips. The gift shop has all your souvenir beer gear needs!

Seventh Street and Broadway skagwaybrewing.com | 907-983-BREW (2739)

Skagway Mining Company

With an outstanding staff and great prices, Skagway Mining is a must-stop for your souvenir shopping. We carry an array of gifts, including bulk candy, apparel, smoked salmon and a huge selection of curios. Think unique, think fun, think Skagway Mining Co. Alaskan owned and operated.

Second Avenue, across from the train station skagwaymining@yahoo.com | 907-983-2015

Skagway Outlet Store

The original outlet store in Southeast Alaska. A little farther down Broadway, but worth the walk for great service, the huge variety of items and the authentic Alaskan atmosphere. You won’t want to miss this store.

Seventh Street and Broadway | 907-983-3331

The Alaska Knife & Ulu Store

Huge selection of Alaskan and USA made knives and ulus with beautiful blades and exquisite utilitarian handles. Located next to the Skagway Brewing Company and Alaska Fudge Store. We carry William Henry, Buck, Kershaw, Bob Merry, Eddie Lee, Pierce, Dale Duby and more.

Seventh Street and Broadway | 907-612-0256

White Pass & Yukon Route Train Shoppe

SKAGWAY’S SCOUNDREL

By Richard Carroll

The Klondike Gold Rush of 1896–1898 gave Alaska one of its most notorious characters: Jefferson Randolph Smith II, alias Soapy Smith, whose life has been documented in movies, television shows, stage plays, melodramas, books and songs. A genius at exposing the flaws of human nature, he became known as Soapy Smith when he and his ruffians operated a lucrative soap scam for 20 some years throughout the western United States. With great aplomb and sleight of hand, Soapy and his gang sold wrapped bars of soap while falsely claiming that one lucky buyer would find a $100 bill tucked inside the package. His cronies revved up the crowd by posing as customers who’d found bonus bills. Then they moved on to the next town before anyone caught on. Arriving in Skagway in 1898 with a stash of cash, Soapy and his gang quickly controlled the town. But he met a violent end by the water on July 8, 1898 — shot dead by Frank Reid, the town surveyor, in what would be known as the Shootout on Juneau Wharf. He was 37 years old. Soapy’s memory lives on each July, when Skagway celebrates the Soapy Smith Wake. Soapy Smith Preservation Trust and Friends of Bad Man Soapy Smith preserve his place as an important historical figure of the late 19th century American West.

From historic memorabilia to logo gear, the WP&YR Train Shoppe offers exclusive White Pass merchandise that can be found in no other location. Be sure to stop in and see us to find the perfect gift to remember your rail journey!

231 Second Avenue wpyr.com/trainshoppe | 800-343-7373

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425 Broadway â&#x20AC;˘ Skagway Celebrate Christmas Alaska Style! Santas Ornaments Nativities Dolls 907-983-2006 www.alaskachristmasstore.com

Enjoy our Alaska style while in Skagway!

Offering a unique selection of gifts and artwork designed and created by Alaskan artist and store owner Tari Eagan. Featured items include limited edition Alaskan made Eskimo dolls, Nanook fleece wear, Watercolor artwork; and much more!

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PHOTOS BY: (AUTHORS) WIKIPEDIA.ORG; LIBRARY OF CONGRESS; WIKIPEDIA.ORG; WIKIPEDIA.ORG; BERTON HOUSE WRITERS; (CABIN) WIKIPEDIA.ORG

TELLING TALES

By Richard Carroll

Skagway’s wild beauty inspired characters both real and imagined.

(DRAGONFLY) PAUL SPARKS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Robert Service, also known as the Bard of the Yukon, perhaps captures Skagway best in his poem, “The Trail of Ninety-Eight,” which recalls the days when he “joined the weltering mass/Clamoring over their outfits, waiting to climb the Pass.” But Jack London is the town’s best-seller. “The dogs dashed up on the street, adding to the gayety of Skaguay,” he wrote (with the spelling of the time) in The Call of the Wild. It was easy to have fun in Skagway. Naturalist John Muir said the town resembled a “nest of ants,” because it was the end of civilization: Beyond lay nothing but that calling wild. Still, Alaska’s wild spirit made even the great gunslinger Wyatt Earp nervous, according to his bride, Josephine Sarah Marcus Earp, who wrote I Married Wyatt Earp. The book also mentions one of Earp’s pallbearers, Wilson Mizner, a member of Skagway’s infamous Soapy Smith gang. Soapy’s crew conned nearly every miner who passed through and inspired endless myths. They developed such notoriety that they earned a cameo in one of Disney’s Uncle Scrooge comics and a major role in James Michener’s Alaska, a novel that seems to be half the size of the state itself. The Gold Rush has passed, the streets are tamed, but Skagway is still proud of when it was, as Pierre Berton recounts in Klondike, “outrageously lawless.” Because that makes for great stories — stories they’re still telling in the town’s streets and beyond.

FROM TOP: Jack London; Josephine Sarah Marcus Earp; Pierre Berton; Robert Service’s cabin in Dawson City, 1958; James Michener.

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PHOTOS BY: (AUTHORS) WIKIPEDIA.ORG; LIBRARY OF CONGRESS; WIKIPEDIA.ORG; WIKIPEDIA.ORG; BERTON HOUSE WRITERS; (CABIN) WIKIPEDIA.ORG

DRAGONFLY DREAMS (DRAGONFLY) PAUL SPARKS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

By Janet Groene Depending on what part of the world you’re in, dragonflies can symbolize power, prosperity or purity. In Alaska, where the fourspotted skimmer dragonfly has been the state’s official insect since 1995, they exemplify agility. The dragonfly’s ability to dart through the Alaskan skies, much like the masterful maneuvering exhibited by bush pilots through the state’s rough terrain, is in part why a group of elementary school children energetically lobbied for its state designation. It also doesn’t hurt that dragonflies eat mosquitoes (jokingly referred to as Alaska’s “unofficial state bird”), which are most bountiful in the summer — just when they are ready to emerge from the water and transform from aquatic nymph to fluttering, four-winged beauties.

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Seattle Founded in 1851, Seattle has always lured those with a pioneer spirit. And it’s still attracting adventurous souls. The Emerald City celebrates its past at Pioneer Square, a National Historic District, as well as at ChinatownInternational District, where Seattle’s AsianAmerican heritage is showcased at restaurants, shops and historical exhibits. Outdoor ent husiasts enjoy t he scenic Cascade and Olympia mountain ranges outside the city; experienced climbers make their way here to scale Mount Rainier. And the arts are fully represented at numerous museums and cultural venues. They include the Seattle Center, on the original grounds of the 1962 World’s Fair. Here you will find Seattle’s most famous icon, the Space Needle, which offers a 360-degree view from a 520-foot-high observation deck. Vancouver Lovely parks and exquisite botanical gardens fill this Canadian port, host of the 2010 Winter Olympics. One of the most impressive parks is Stanley Park, a 1,000-acre

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forested peninsula with beaches and walking trails, including a meandering, seven-mile-long seawall. In the center of the city, atop Little Mountain, sits Queen Elizabeth Park. Once an old rock quarry, it has been transformed into a sunken garden of shrubbery and flowerbeds. The University of British Columbia’s Botanical Garden is arranged into several distinct areas, including an Asian garden, an alpine garden, a British Columbia native-plants garden and the serene Nitobe Memorial Garden. Victoria The influence of Victoria’s English founders remains strong in this pretty city of well-tended gardens and charming homes. During the Gold Rush days of the mid-1800s, it was home to thousands of hopeful prospectors. Today, it showcases its nautical past at the Maritime Museum of British Columbia. The heart of the city curves around the quaint stonewalled Inner Harbour, around which are such attractions as the Undersea Gardens, the Royal London Wax Museum and the staid, blocklong Empress Hotel.

PHOTOS BY: (SEATTLE) TINAIMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (HORSE) SAM DCRUZ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; (GARDENS) 2009FOTOFRIENDS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM.

Regional HIGHLIGHTS

CLOCKWISE: Seattle’s Space Needle; Horses march in Vancouver; Gardens in Victoria.

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Victoria

FUNTREKS

Historic Downtown & Butchart Gardens

This excursion shows why Victoria is known as Canada’s “City of Gardens.” Participants take a self-guided tour, using multilanguage maps, of famed Butchart Gardens. More than a century ago, the Butchart family transformed an old rock quarry into one of the world’s top floral gardens. The downtown portion includes the Inner Harbour, with its majestic Parliament buildings and the ivy-covered Empress Hotel.

Twilight Highlights & Craigdarroch Castle

Built between 1887 and 1890, Craigdarroch Castle is a National Historic Site on a hill overlooking the city. After touring the Victorian home, guests are taken on a drive through Victoria. Landmarks include Chinatown’s Gate of Harmonious Interest, Canada’s narrowest street, the Inner Harbour, Parliament buildings and the Empress Hotel.

Victoria by Double Decker

Victoria’s old-world charm comes alive on this tour. Participants board a vintage English doubledecker bus and enjoy a scenic marine drive past beautiful bays and coves, neighborhoods, parks and lookouts. After the drive, guests have time to explore the town.

Victoria by Horse-Drawn Trolley

Guests may feel they’ve gone back in time on this narrated journey along the waterfront. A powerful team of purebred horses — usually Percherons, Belgians or Clydesdales — leads the trolley along historic James Bay, one of Victoria’s original neighborhoods, and through Beacon Hill Park, the city’s natural heart. The park’s 154 acres of carefully preserved trees, gardens and ponds provide a peaceful haven amid the busy town.

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