ONE MAGAZINE ISSUE NO. 12 NYC
SUMMER 2016
the vision issue
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N E W
Y O R K
C I T Y
B O S T O N
S A R A S O T A
E S TA B L I S H E D J U N E 2 0 1 0
CONTRIBUTORS
EDITORIALS
J a c l y n A d a m s , K a l G r i ff i g , J a k o b & H a n n a h , D a v i d e S o m e tt i , D e n n i s Stenild, Kari Sverrisson, Claudio + To m a s , M o r t e n To n s b e r g , A l e x Tr o m m l i t z , K a t i a W i k , Fe l i x W o n g , J o s e p h P a r a d i s o a n d Yu k i
FASHION DIRECTOR
Amarsana Gendunova
All designs, creative and art direction were completed and produced by Nicole Gavrilles © ONE Magazine Nicole Gavrilles 2016 ONEMAG.US
F E AT U R E S
Issey Miyake
C O N TA C T U S
For questions or comments, email us at info.onemag@gmail.com
SHOP
Visit our page at Magcloud.com to view previous issues and purchase a print & digital issue I N F O R M AT I O N
I N F O R M AT I O N
SUBMISSIONS
Send all submissions to info.onemag@gmail.com
VISIT
For more information, visit onemag.us Read all past issues on issuu.com/onemagazine1
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contents
n o .1 2
Rather Be Photos by Dennis Stenild
Flared 64
Photos by Kari Sverrisson
156
74
Space & Color
Shadow Play
Photos by Kal Griffig
Photos by Morten Tonsberg
On the Frame 50
Photos by Alex Trommlitz
136
Behind the Wind
Street Beauty
Photos by Joseph Paradiso and Yuki
Photos by Jaclyn Adams
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126
the vision issue
Stone to Dust Photos by Jakob & Hannah
Keep it Natural 26
Photos by Davide Sometti
Sand Trials 116
Photos by Felix Wong
38
Elle est...
Urban Silhouettes
Photos by Katia Wik
Photos by Claudio + Tomas
rather be for one
rather be for one
ISSUE NO. 12
articles
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Issey Miyake Interview —
Questions by Emily Fox Photos by Felix Wong
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Then End of An Era
Fashion Picks
Written by Danielle Peterson
Featuring Summer to Fall pieces
AFOOT AND LIGHTHEARTED I TAKE TO THE OPEN ROAD, HEALTHY, FREE, THE WORLD BEFORE ME...LEADING WHEREVER I CHOOSE 12
L E T T E R
F R O M
E D I T O R
Six years strong and I’m still producing ONE Magazine. A lot has changed for me personally throughout the years and this year especially has been all about change and taking chances. The quote associated with this issue is by Walt Whitman, an American poet from the 1800s that had a passion for love, life and feeling free. I think I gravitated to this quote because I’m beginning to experience life in that way. By experiencing that, I have take changes in my own life. When you’re constantly working all the time, it’s easy to say no. Work becomes more important than anything else because you feel like everything is on your shoulders and only you can get the work done. But there are times to say yes and to try new things, travel, meet new people and explore. The vision issue is all about exploring where ONE Magazine can go by taking changes in it’s design, aesthetic and style. We pushed that a little further in this issue and we’ll be continuing to push it for the next issues to come. I'm very happy on how this issue come together. I want to thank Issey Miyake for letting us into your creative process, Amarsana for all of the amazing work you've managed / styled / produced for this issue and I cannot wait to see what we continue to make for future issues! And lastly, the incredibly talented contributors for this issue. I'm blown away by the beautiful images taken by the people behind the lens along with their amazing teams of stylists, hair and makeup artists. This issue it to celebrate you all! Enjoy :)
F O U N D E R , E D I T O R AT L A R G E , D E S I G N E R
Nicole Gavrilles
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E D I T O R I A L S
D E S I G N E R S
A R T I C L E S
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fl a re d Photography Kรกri Sverriss Model Magdalena Sara at Eskimo Models Styling Erna Bergmann Hair Theodรณra Mjoll with Label.M and HH Simonsen Makeup Gudbjorg Huldis using MAC Cosmetics Retoucher Natlyf Retouching Assistants Kari Isleifur and Alexandra Kristjansd
ONE
coat honky dory, top geysir, pants calvin klein, shoes adidas stan smith, scarf zara
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swede shirt won hundred, patent shirt hildur yeoman
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blazer mcq, denim jacket levis, turtleneck zara, pants wood wood
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shirt hope, pants wood wood, shoes grenson, watch komono
leather jacket won hundred, knitted dress geysir, scarf zara
vest kenzo, sweater won hundred
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denim overall calvin klein, top mcq
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leather jacket won hundred, knitted dress geysir, scarf zara
coat dondup, turtleneck zara, jeans levis 101, shoes alexander wang
top geysir
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blazer amoi, jeans levis
jeans levis
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s and Photography Felix Wong at Seen Artists Model Ola Munik at APM Styling Amarsana Gendunova Hair Yukiko Tajima at WM Artist Management using Oribe Makeup Ingeborg at Art Dept LA using Kat Burki Skincare & Vapour Beauty
tra i l s ONE
shirt, pants & jacket breelayne
skirt breelayne, shoes agl, ring parme marin
shirt, top & pants claudia li
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jacket colin locascio, hosiery nicolas messina, shoes antonio marras
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sheer dress georgine, tunic & pants breelayne
shirt, top & pants claudia li
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top georgine
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jumpsuit breelayne, shirt karine lecchi
dress breelayne, shoes l'f
dress tome
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u r b an Photography Claudio + Tomas Model Stefany Basso at New York Models Styling Carolina Herrera Makeup Niki Ossandon
sil h o uett e s ONE
shirt ermanno scervino, shorts barbara bui
dress dkny, harness barbara bui, shoes cĂŠline
dress marni, earrings zara
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coat ermanno scervino, shirt sandro paris, boxer dkny
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dress hugo boss
dress dkny, shoes zara
coat tara jarmon, shirt chanel, belt hugo boss, brooch ermanno scervino
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dress dkny
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dress donna karan
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t-shirt louis vuitton dress missoni
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b e h i n d t h e Photography Joseph Paradiso and Yuki Model Celia Becker at One Management Styling Amarsana Gendunova Hair Nicola Seldin at Art Department Makeup Aya Komatsu at Bridge Artists Styling Assistant Carson Hall
w in d ONE
dress madiyah al sharqi, blouse breelayne, boots boss
suit jason wu
blazer kalmanovich
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blazer mr. decurtic, turtleneck polder, pants maison pere, brooch erickson beamon
top kalmanovich, skirt alena akhmadullina
top jason wu
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top & pants jason wu
suit kalmanovich
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suit icb, blouse maison pere
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Photography Alex Trommlitz Model Pau Bertolini at Iconic Model Management Styling Cathrin Sonntag Hair & Makeup Isabel Eiler at Kult Artists using Sisley Cosmetics
t h e fra m e
ONE
top jil sander, pants cos, shoes christian dior, bangle maison margiela via mytheresa
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coat dries van noten, blouse melampo, brooch stylists own
pullover christian dior, dress jil sander, earring prada
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dress gucci, heels jimmy choo, earrings jonathan johnson, socks cos
dress self portrait via matchesfashion, bustier dries van noten, sunglasses stella mccartney via mytheresa
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dress prada, dress underneath christian dior, shoes emporio armani, necklace cathrin sonntag
shirt & jacket chanel, heels dries van noten, necklace prada, earring maison margiela via mytheresa
dress diesel black gold, bag versace, necklace xenia bous
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dress topshop, pants cacharel, shoes boyy
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s h a d ow Photography Morten Tonsberg Model Anna C at Scoop Models Styling Lotte Sindahl Hair Ayoe Ness Makeup Louise Polano Assistant Jonas Raaby
p l ay ONE
top & jumpsuit monki
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suit rosemunde, shoes toga pulla
dress libertine libertine, shoes scarpa
jacket pierre balmain, shirt frame, jeans filippa k, purse boyy, shoes toga pulla
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camisole top gestuz, jeans cacharel, boots toga pulla
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jacket calvin klein, shirt amorie officielle, shorts stig p.
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sto n e — Photography Jakob & Hannah Model Luisa Moek at Seeds Management Styling Christina van Zon
t o
Hair & Makeup Aennikin
du s t ONE
coat ganni, dress louise friedlaender
dress franziska michael, jacket & pants citizens of humanity
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dress franziska michael, pants citizens of humanity, shoes vagabond
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coat ganni, dress louise friedlaender, boots palladium, earrings monki
coat ganni, dress louise friedlaender
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jacket citizens of humanity, top vladimir karaleev, pants melampo, on right — earrings jane kønig
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coat blk dnm, top louise friedlaender, rock hausach, rings jane kønig
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rath e r Photography Dennis Stenild at Filter Management Model Maria Loks at MIKAs Styling Mette Krogsgaard Hair & Makeup Anne Krarup at Le Management Photography Assistant Andreas Mortensen Retouching Post Studio
be knit & pencil skirt acne studios, trousers & belt used as scarf anne sofie madsen, boots vintage
ONE
suede top & trousers lina funder, shirt acne studios
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dress stella mccartney, belt - used as scarf anne sofie madsen
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shirt mm6 by maison margiea, turtleneck rodebjer, trousers linda funder, boots vintage
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dress anne sofie madsen, shirt acne studios
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coat & top anne sofie madsen, dress mm6 by maison margiela
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coat & shirt and mini skirt acne studios, knit henrik vibskov
top anne sofie madsen
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suede top & trousers lina funder, shirt acne studios
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dress - used as top mm6 by maison margiela, top anne sofie madsen, trousers henrik vibskov
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dress cacharel, turtleneck acne studios
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dress cacharel, shirt acne studios, trousers pierre balmain
shirt mm6 by maison margiela, trousers pierre balmain
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el l e Photography Katia Wik Model Lera at Iconic Management Styling Linda Charlotte Ehrl Hair & Makeup Selina Reimann Styling Assistant Manuel Miltner
e s t . . . ONE
leather jacket blk dnm, body michalsky
leather bra with strongs dstm, skirt kaviar gauche, shoes malaikaraiss
vest & bustier dstm
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top kaviar gauche, latex pants trĂŠs bonjour
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top kaviar gauche, latex pants trĂŠs bonjour
dress & neckpiece dstm, shoes malaikaraiss, cuff marina hoermanseder
neckpiece dstm
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leather bustier & belt marina hoermanseder, skirt hauach couture
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leather bra with strings dstm, leather jacket augustin teboul, pants marina hoermanseder
top monki
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Photography Davide Sometti Models Primrose, Edwina & Sharnee at Select London Styling Safiya Yekwai Hair Tom Connell Makeup Philippe Miletto
n at u ra l ONE
denim jacket ymc
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denim jacket ymc, white top francesca capper
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bomber & t-shirt franklin marshall, dress jh zane
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top & bottoms francesca capper
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suit rokh
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jacket & pants ymc
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suit rokh, shirt kevin geddes
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stre et Photography Jaclyn Adams Model Sveta Matiunina at IMG Models Styling Rebecca Dennett Hair Sasha Nesterchuk using KÊrastase Makeup Stefanie Willmann at Art Dept using RMS Beauty Styling Assistants Yewon Lee & Samantha White Photography Assistant Kevin Buitrago Retouching Diego Castillo
b e au t y ONE
dress john galliano courtesy of albright fashion library
dress lanvin courtesy of albright fashion library
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top & skirt monse, shoes faustine steinmetz
dress marc jacobs courtesy of albright fashion library
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dress monse, gloves amato, bag mark cross
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dress & jacket (around waist) oscar de la renta courtesy of albright fashion library
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dress marc jacobs courtesy of albright fashion library
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dress marc jacobs courtesy of albright fashion library
dress john galliano courtesy of albright fashion library
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dress oscar de la renta, bow (on dress) stylists own, shoes faustine steinmetz
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dress john galliano courtesy of albright fashion library, earring lady grey
top monse
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dress monse, gloves amato, bag mark cross
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dress alexander wang courtesy of albright fashion library, earring lady grey
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dress & jacket (around waist) oscar de la renta courtesy of albright fashion library, shoes faustine steinmetz
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top & skirt monse, bag mark cross
dress lanvin courtesy of albright fashion library
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s pac e Photography Kal Griffig Model Maria Loks at NEXT London Styling Holly Suan Gray Hair Tomomi Roppongi Makeup Francesca Brazzo
co l o r ONE
&
asymmetrical jacket dkny, blue suit sorapol
shirt sorapol london
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top & neck piece back, trousers edeline lee
dress dkny, knickers stylists own
dress versus
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jacket back
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waistcoat dkny, skirt back, trousers edeline lee
Issey Miyake Photography Felix Wong at Seen Artists Model Ida Dyberg at Fusion Styling Amarsana Gendunova Makeup Ingeborg at Art Dept LA using Surratt Beauty Hair Paul Warren at Art Dept for RenĂŠ Furterer Questions Emily Fox
Since debuing his first collection in New York during 1971 and then participating in Paris Fashion Week since 1973, Issey Miyake's unique concept of clothing as "A Piece of Cloth" was widely acclaimed throughout the world. An inexhaustible explorer, he has continued to open up new horizons for making clothes through research, experimentation and development while reimagining the relationship between the human body and clothing. In 2006, Yoshiyuki Miyamae joined as a member of the brand design team and in 2011 became the designer for Issey Miyake. Miyamae has introduced
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3D-like fabric techniques when steam is applied, heat-reactive thread in the fabric instantly reacts and transforms the garment into three-dimensional patterns, following the contours of the creases. Another being a technique where a piece of cloth is imprinted with a special glue, placed in a baking machine, and baked. Similar to bread rising in the oven, the glue expands with high heat, transforming the molds of the pleats to complete the clothing. Miyamae's innovative approach to fashion design during his time at Issey Miayke has been globally successful. His forward thinking ideas are pushing the advancement of the fashion industry in the direction of what will come next and we cannot wait to see Miyamae's creative mind continue to explore at Issey Miayke. We sat down with Yoshiyuki Miyamae to talk about his creative process, his most recent collection and where he draws inspiration from.
— describe your creative process Yoshiyuki Miyamae: I get inspiration from things created by nature such as landscapes, plants and water. This informs the materials, colors and shapes. — just from looking at your collection, I get a sense of the vastness of space and interstellar travel; where did you find the inspiration for these pieces? YM: We cannot actually see what the vastness of outer space looks like; it remains unknown and mysterious to us. So the team searched for things close at hand, and created our own rendition of space. We imagined what the Earth looked like as seen through the eyes of an astronaut, and created our image of the
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" We cannot actually see what the vastness of outer space looks like... We imagined what the Earth looked like as seen through t h e e y e s o f a n a s t r o n a u t ." — YO S H I Y U K I M I YA M A E
Earth by overlapping layers of brightly-colored jelly. We also used a pancake cooked in a pan to represent the cratered surface of the moon. So we began with things around us, and added some creativity to come up with something original.
copying each other’s personal styles? do you find the presence of social media stimulating or overwhelming when it comes to seeking inspiration for your designs?
YM: Today, we live in a socially networked society, so we can get information faster and more easily than ever — how do you stay on top of current design before. However, the most important thing for me is to trends? actually use my hands and experience many things by going to the actual places where they take place. What YM: I make sure to actually see real people, on streets we have felt and perceived are carefully put to use by the and in media, and learn and perceive what sort of things team in creating items for our collections. they are interested in. — the presence of such stores as h&m, zara, — to you, why is fashion so important in and forever21 means the average cost of global culture? is it merely a method of self- clothes is very little. in fact, consumers expression, or is it something else entirely? spend far less of their income on clothes not than they did in the ‘60s. however, these clothes are also made with inferior quality. YM: A designer’s job is to solve problems in people’s what is your opinion, if any, on mass consumer lifestyles and in society, at large. My hopes are to carry clothing lines? on Miyake’s thoughts and aspirations, and to make people’s daily lives richer and more comfortable. YM: I realize this trend is happening not only in fashion, but also in foods and other industries. I have no opinion — with all the varied social media outlets, on so-called fast fashion, but as far as I’m concerned, it’s so much easier to see what people are I hope to give added value to high-quality items, and wearing, and where. do you think this create and release things that are not found on every stimulates individual style, or instead street. creates a homogenous result of people
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I S S E Y M I YA K E
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— how long after a collection is finished do you start work on the next one? how does the process of creating a new collection start? YM: Creating clothes is a never-ending process. We spend two to three years on planning and development. After our show in Paris ends, however, I make sure to take a trip and refresh myself for the next one. — do you have any advice for young designers, something that you wish you had known when you were first starting? YM: You should question all manner of things all the time. A designer is finished if he or she stops questioning. You should find tasks and challenges on your own and not give up until you solve them. I believe this sort of attitude is important. — can you tell us anything about the upcoming collection? are there any themes you are focusing on, or any elements you are emphasizing? YM: I hope to create materials by focusing on beauty created by nature. I plan to launch materials and fabrics not seen anywhere before.
to view issey miyake's current collection and past collections, visit isseymiyake.com
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GUCCI SS16
GUCCI SS16
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the end of an era
Historic Fashion Houses Welcome Fresh Faces Words Danielle Peterson Images InDital Images
The fashion industry requires foresight to grow, and to a certain extent, it also requires disruption. The past year and a half has exemplified the idea that new visions can stimulate growth in historic fashion houses. Whether it is Alessandro Michele at Gucci, Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga, or Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, young designers are changing the way customers view brands that have been around for almost 100 years.
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At Gucci, the electricity its new creative director, Alessandro Michele, brings to the runway is contagious. Michele is transforming the sexpot Gucci woman, who thrived when Tom Ford was creative director more than 10 years ago, in to a woman who is elegant but cool, bookish but edgy. The transformation has gone so well that Michele won International Fashion Designer of the Year in 2015, and Gucci’s revenue increased 4.8 percent more than the same quarter the year before.
of 2015. Despite the sales growth, Wang likely felt conflicted between the Parisian fashion house and his namesake label, which led to the amicable split between the two in July 2015.
Michele, who worked at Gucci for 12 years before being named creative director, is leading Gucci in a braver direction than his predecessor, Frida Giannini. However, Michele’s vision looks backward more than forward and combines the past and present to make vintageinspired clothes. He acknowledges that sex appeal will always be important to the Italian fashion house, but instead of designing clothes based on a construct, he designs clothes for women to feel confident in, which is a kind of sexy that will never go out of style.
Days after Wang’s final show at Balenciaga, the Parisian fashion house announced that his successor would be Gvasalia. Executives chose him for his ability to shape brands and likely for the following and large fandom he has gained from his own label Vetements. Although Wang brought a darker and edgier side to Balenciaga, Gvasalia seems willing to take the brand one step further. Much like Wang, Gvasalia appeals to a cool crowd and his admirers include Lorde and Kanye West. His own line translates to “clothes” in French and consists of streetwear with a lot of attitude. With Gvasalia at the reigns of Balenciaga, fashion lovers can expect to see that attitude carry over as he experiments by combining his contemporary vision with Balenciaga’s storied past to lead the brand into a brighter future.
While Gucci is undergoing a renaissance in Italy, Balenciaga is undergoing its own, albeit somewhat grittier, transformation in Paris. Although the fashion house is currently helmed by Demna Gvasalia, the revitalization started in 2012 when Balenciaga replaced Nicolas Ghesquiére with Alexander Wang. Balenciaga parted ways with Ghesquiére after 15 years and brought in a young, cool American to shake things up. And for three years, the transition worked. For instance, Balenciaga experienced double digit growth in its retail and wholesale channels during the first two quarters
In 2012, when Balenciaga brought on Alexander Wang, Saint Laurent made a similar decision to bring in a fresh face. For Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane came in and took creative control over everything from the brand’s name (formerly Yves Saint Laurent) to the ad campaigns, which he photographed himself. He brought an edgy L.A. vibe to Saint Laurent that doubled revenues during his four-year stint. During a time when the entire luxury market experienced a downturn, Saint Laurent thrived, but when the time came to renew Slimane’s
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BALENCIAGA
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GUCCI
fall 2016
spring 2016
GUCCI
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BALENCIAGA
spring 2016
fall 2016
SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE
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GUCCI RESORT 2017
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"She's an intellectual who has taste... a woman with great freedom of e x p r e s s i o n ." — ALESSANDRO MICHELE
contract, they could not reach an agreement. As a result, Saint Laurent announced in April that Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello would step forward to fill Slimane’s large shoes. Vaccarello will present his first collection for Saint Laurent in October, and all eyes will be on him to see where he plans to take the Parisian fashion house. If his namesake label is any indication, the fashion world can expect Saint Laurent to usher in a more feminine era with a lot of sex appeal. Although the fashion world has always placed large demands on designers, it seems that nowadays they are stretched thin. Fashion houses need designers to craft an image that consists of four or more collections a year, ad campaigns, social media presence, and
luxurious stores that tie it all together. Some critics even argue that the current change in designers stems from burn out from the pressure. For instance, Raf Simons left Christian Dior siting too little time for his creative process to thrive in between collections. Now it is rumored that he will head to Calvin Klein to make the brand cohesive while Dior still operates without a creative director. However, if Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga are any indication, new directions can lead to growth in sales as customers seem to enjoy a change in perspective and a fresh take on classics. As a result, the revolving door of designers will likely continue to spin over the upcoming years, which will lead to new insight and fresh takes that will keep the industry thriving and ever evolving.
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fashion
MAISON MICHEL SORELLE NYC
VALENTINO
RAEY
MICHINO
A LT U Z A R R A
CHLOÉ THE ROW AGL
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SORELLE NYC
THE ROW
ISABEL MARANT ÉTOILE SONIA RYKIEL
SELF-PORTRAIT
S A LV AT O R E FERRAGAMO
RED VALENTINO AGL
J.W. A N D E R S O N
C H E C K O U T T H E L AT E S T M U S T- H A V E S O F T H E S E A S O N
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CREDITS
All images used in articles and features are credited along with each page they are featured on. All photographers featured own full rights to their images Quote on Letter from Editor Walt Whitman Fashion & Product Picks Courtesy of Sorelle NYC, AGL, The Row, Chloe, Michino, Salvatore Ferragamo. All Clothing from Matches Fashion The End of An Era Article Runway & Detail shots — indigitalimages.com and indigital.tv Gucci SS16 & Resort 2017, Yannis Vlamos Gucci FW16, Marcus Tondo Balenciaga FW16, Monica Feudi Saint Laurent SS16, Gianni Pucci Back Cover Jakob & Hannah
ONEMAG.US