ONE Issue No.15

NO. 15

ONE MAGAZINE NYC

C F .

G O L D M A N

WINTER 2018

THE STRENGTH ISSUE

NO. 15

E S TA B L I S H E D J U N E 2 0 1 0

ONE

CONTRIBUTORS

Anna Daki / Domenico Petralia / Gabriele Baldotto / Justin Wilczynski / Linda Leitner / Magnus Lecher / Martin Rustad Johansen / Max Vom Hofe / Osvaldo Pontón / Petros / Raissa Biscotti / Renee Bevan / Rocío Badiola / Takeshi Takagi

ALL DESIGNS, CREATIVE + EDITORIAL ART DIRECTION WERE COMPLETED AND PRODUCED BY NICOLE GAVRILLES © ONE MAGAZINE 2018, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED NICOLE GAVRILLES

NO. 15

C O N TA C T U S

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I N F O R M AT I O N

I N F O R M AT I O N

SHOP

CONTENTS

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24

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Intrépide — Magnus Lecher

A Lonely Night — Anna Daki

The Beauty Beholder — Martin Rustad Johansen

184

Cover — Story 86

CF. Goldman — Osvaldo Pontón

130

50

Just for a While — Raissa Biscotti

The Super — Petros

A Simple Mess — Linda Leitner

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CONTENTS

102

72

Aurore — Justin Wilczynski

Tough as Concrete — Domenico Petralia

164

144

60

Velours — Renee Bevan

118

She became beautiful...

— Takeshi Takagi

In the Light — Gabriele Baldotto

12

Modern Art — Max Vom Hofe

The Beginning — Rocío Badiola

THE STRENGTH ISSUE

CONTENTS

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I N T L I

H G Photography—Gabriele Baldotto

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CONTENTS

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Interview— CF. Goldman

Photography—Osvaldo Pontón, Styling—Olivia Weeden

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Letter from Editor — Nicole Gavrilles

Empowering Shape — Danielle Peterson

THE STRENGTH ISSUE

CONTENTS

My advice to you — Find the strength in yourself, because it’s the most amazing feeling when you finally access it.

Then you will be unstoppable.

L ETTER

F RO M

EDITO R

NO. 15

LETTER FROM EDITOR

The word strength has resurfaced in today's world as the main source for many struggles women have overcome in the past year. From women publishing their stories of sexual harassment by Harvey Weinstein to the young women gymnasts facing Larry Nassar during trial. These are amazing women of strength. Strength can come in all shapes and sizes, making small steps of strength or big ones like I mentioned. The feeling of having the strength and confidence in yourself to accomplish something is not an easy task to do. This past year I faced some struggles that I did not have the strength to overcome. With time, patience and dedicating personal space for myself, I was able to overcome my struggles and end up stronger in the end. As women in today’s society, it can be difficult to be secure in yourself with social media constantly surrounding your life making you believe that detox tea will help you lose weight or that designer bag everyone has, you should have as well. The most beautiful thing in life is being yourself and no one should take that away from you. Don’t let anyone on the internet make you believe you’re not pretty enough, skinny enough, cool enough. Because in the end, it matters who you are in life, not online. If you believe in yourself, you can accomplish anything. Focus on the now, focus on yourself first, your happiness in yourself. Making time for you is the most important lesson one should learn.

I started this magazine 7.5 years ago and I started it for me.

For my love of fashion photography and design. I’m not here to make you buy products or shove sponsored posts in your feed everyday. I’m here as a middle-woman to provide you with the amazing photographers and designers you should know about. I am here for you as well. I am here to continue to provide creatives with a platform to showcase their beautiful work that will help them achieve greater things.

That has been and always will be my end goal with ONE. The strength of this issue came with time and it’s outcome is something we’re very proud of. We hope you enjoy!

F O U N D E R , E D I T O R AT L A R G E , D E S I G N E R

Nicole Gavrilles

THE STRENGTH ISSUE

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DESIGNERS

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dress Isa Irfen, shirt Palmer Harding, trousers Rejina Pyo, shoes Yuul Yie

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Modern art

Photography—Max Vom Hofe Fashion Editor—Steph Wilson at One Represents Casting Director—Dean Goodman at The Goodman Creative

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black top Monographie, shirt Osman

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shirt Tommy Zhong, dress Joshua Jeffery Millard, trousers Osman, shoes Yuul Yie

shirt Palmer Harding

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dress Rejina Pyo, jacket & trousers Phoebe English

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coat Huishan Zhang, shirt Carven, trousers Eudon Choi, shoes Yuul Yie

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top Isa Irfen, dress Shushu Tong, trousers Eudon Choi

shirt Monographie

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coat Mother of Pearl, dress Eudon Choi, shirt (under dress) Tara Jarmon, trousers DKNY, belt Haizhen Wang, shoes Yuul Yie

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black shirt Monographie, white shirt DKNY, trousers Phoebe English, shoes Yuul Yie — all hosiery Balenciaga Model—Leila at Next Models, Makeup—Kenneth Soh at Frank Agency using La Prairie and Marc Jacobs Beauty, Hair—Bjorn Krischker at Frank Agency using ColorProof Haircare Movement Director— Michael Eckel, Set Design—Amy Friend, Photography Assistant— Andreas Klassen, Fashion Assistant—Celine Sheridan

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The Photography—Martin Rustad Johansen at Polookaville Styling—Elise Sandvik

beauty beholder ONE

satiated snake earrings All Blues, necklace with ring stylists own

pullover Maison Margiela, earrings Elizabeth Romanin

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shirt Maison Margiela, serendipity hoop earrings & offset v ring Maria Black, fat snack ring All Blues

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pullover Maison Margiela, satiated snake earrings All Blues

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pullover & pants Maison Margiela, satiated snake earrings All Blues, ice ring Tom Wood, offset v ring Maria Black

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satiated snake earrings All Blues ice ring Tom Wood

Model—Julier Bugge at Scoop Models Makeup & Hair—Jens J. Wiker at Style Management Photography Assistant—Mohammad Ataey Post Production—Wetouch Imagework

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coat MM6 Maison Margiela, oval link earring & offset v ring Maria Black, ice ring Tom Wood

pullover Maison Margiela, satiated snake earrings All Blues

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Lonely Photography—Anna Daki Styling—Saskia Schmidt at Klaus Stiegmeyer

night ONE

suit Céline

blouse Odeeh, skirt Gucci, tights Falke

trousers Balenciaga, shoes Zara

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shirt Zara, earrings CĂŠline

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dress Odeeh, bag & earrings CĂŠline, tights Wolford, shoes Zara

blouse Odeeh, shirt & shoes Zara, trousers Levi's

blouse & scarf Odeeh, polo shirt Vivienne Westwood, trousers Balenciaga, earrings CĂŠline, shoes Zara

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jacket & trousers Balenciaga, shirt & pullover Vivienne Westwood, shoes Zara

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shirt, skirt & shoes Zara, bag & earrings CĂŠline, scarf Eurotic

full look Kenzo, shoes Balenciaga, earrings CĂŠline

headpiece Prada, blazer Zara

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Model—Tabitha at Place Models Makeup & Hair—Sina Velke at CLM Photography Assistant—Luis Bompastor

suit & earrings Céline, shoes Balenciaga

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jacket Annakiki

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Just for a while Photography—Raissa Biscotti Styling—Letizia Maria Allodi

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coat Ricostru, belt Pence 1979, earring DelphineCharlotte Parmentier, boots Diesel

top I Love Pretty, hoops Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier

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jacket Annakiki, earring with pearls DelphineCharlotte Parmentier

bomber Puma, jeans Pence 1979, boots Diesel, choker Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier

top I Love Pretty, hoops Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier

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coat I Love Pretty, earring Delphine-Charlotte Parmentier

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Model—Thais at Models1 Makeup & Hair—Chantal Amari

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She became beautiful, because HARU is just around the Corner.

Photography—Takeshi Takagi Styling—Yui Sawada

ONE

knit & shirt Perverze, dress vintage

top & pants Cos

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knit & shirt Perverze, dress vintage

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jacket & earrings vintage, shirt & pants Yohei Ohno

jacket Neil Barrett, top vintage, pants & shoes Used

jacket & earrings vintage, shirt Yohei Ohno

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shirt Perverze, pants Cos, earrings vintage

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shirt Perverze, earrings vintage Model—Doris at Parfe Models Hair—Kaori Sonoda Makeup—Kotoe Kikuchi Design—Yui Takuma

top Cos, earrings vintage

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Photography—Justin Wilczynski at 7 Artist Management Styling—James Nelson

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suit Michael Kors

dress Zac Posen, boots Dolce & Gabbana

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dress We Are Kindred

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dress Dolce & Gabbana

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dress Zac Posen

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jacket Alberta Feretti, belt CĂŠline, boots Dolce & Gabbana

suit Calvin Klein, belt Loewe, shoes Jagger

dress Dolce & Gabbana, belt Balenciaga

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suit Michael Kors, pants Mariam Sedda, belt CĂŠline

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pants Calvin Klein opposite page – top AUS Label, pants Alessandro Dell'Acqua

Model—Maria Konieczna at Elite LA Hair—Anna Lyles at Atelier Management Makeup—Daniele Piersons at Art Department Location—Apex Studios, Downtown Los Angeles

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leather jacket Tod's, crop jumper & cardigan Philosophy, leather trousers Zadig & Voltaire, leather boots Dorateymur, sterling silver earrings Dinosaur Designs

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The Photography—Petros Styling—Lorna McGee

Super ONE

leather jacket & trousers and silk blouse Trussardi, sterling silver earrings Dinosaur Designs

tweed jacket Bella Freud, silk blouse Mulberry, trousers Ellery, sterling silver ring Dinosaur Designs

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90

wool jacket & trousers Jacquemus, sterling silver earrings Dinosaur Designs

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suede coat, leather belt, calf leather & strling silver earrings Fendi

93

jacket, shirt & silk trousers Lemaire, shoes Dries Van Noten, sterling silver ring & right ear earring Dinosaur Designs, left ear earring Fendi

shirt Max Mara, skirt Alberta Ferretti, sterling silver earrings Dinosaur Designs

95

wool jumper Alberta Ferretti, sterling silver earrings Dinosaur Designs

96

tweed jacket Bella Freud, silk blouse Mulberry, trousers Ellery, leather loafers G. H. Bass, sterling silver ring Dinosaur Designs

double breasted coat & tweed jacket Bella Freud, shirt & silk trousers Sportmax, calf leather & sterling silver earring Fendi

98

leather shirt & trousers Tod’s, roll-neck sweater Missoni via Mytheresa, leather shoes Dorateymur, calf leather & sterling silver earring Fendi

wool skirt suit & cotton top Jil Sander, sterling silver earrings Dinosaur Designs

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Model—Sophie Kanny at Elite London Casting—Dean Goodman Makeup—Amy Conley at Stella Creative using MAC Cosmetics Hair—Ryuta Saiga using TIGI Bedhead

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oversized coat with belt Xu Zhi, leather boots Aquilano Rimondi

ONE

CONCRETE

S Photography—Domenico Petralia Art Direction & Styling—Joanna Gyamera

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crossbody bag Romi LDN at Young British Designers, briefs model's own, leather boots Aquilano Rimondi

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overcoat & boots in 'prince of wales' check Mila Schรถn, bag Off-White

oversized wool-blend felt coat Rejina Pyo, tulle bra La Perla, high waist knickers Intimissimi

107

total look Aquilano Rimondi

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pinstriped bordeaux tailored jacket, lace high neck top, matching cigarette trousers & shoes Mila Schรถn

off-shoulder fringe dress Xu Zhi, leather boots Aquilano Rimondi

111

cotton shirt with neckerchief bow Eudon Choi at Young British Designers, oversized cotton shirt Jil Sander, rose gold earrings Maha Lozi at Young British Designers

112

striped asymmetric shirt Freya Dalsjø, striped shirt Aquilano Rimondi, corduroy wide-leg trousers Perseverance London, shoes Mila SchÜn, 'hula hoop' earrings Maha Lozi at Young British Designers

coat Aquilano Rimondi, polka dot tulle dress Francesco Scognamiglio

115

Model—Stephanie Reichler at Milk Management London Grooming—Aga Dobosz at Carol Hayes Mgmt London Assistant—Fabio Massari Post-Production—Virgil Hritcu Production—Domenico Petralia

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dress Freya Dalsjø, high neck lace top & shoes Mila Schön

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Photography—Rocío Badiola Styling—Paulina Poblete

B E G I N — N I N G ONE

shirt Saint Laurent, crop Pau Poblet

119

suit Yves Saint Laurent, shirt Hugo Boss, arm shirt Pau Poblet, shoes See by ChloĂŠ

sweater CĂŠline, pants Calvin Klein, earrings Zara

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dress Burberry, blouse Pau Poblet

122

dress Pau Poblet, pants Calvin Klein, earrings Zara

shirt Hugo Boss

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top Nika Tang, blue tights We Love Colors

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crop Pau Poblet, panty Calvin Klein

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top Zara, white shirt Hugo Boss, pants Burberry, shoes See

by ChloĂŠ

shirt Hugo Boss, pants Pau Poblet Model—Pong Lee at Francina Models, Hair & Makeup—Urra Team / Bárbara Urra y María Paz Urra using Dior & Moroccanoil

dress Burberry, blouse Pau Poblet

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knit & dress Zadig & Voltaire, booties Barbara Bui, socks Caledonia

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A Simple Mess

Photography—Linda Leitner Styling—Miriam Diaz

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knit & dress Zadig & Voltaire

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coat & belt Issey Miyake, chemise & boots Hermès

knit, trousers & booties Blugirl

dress Hermès, belt Issey Miyake

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knit Barbara Bui, skirt MCQ Alexander McQueen via Mytheresa, boots Hermès

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coat & belt Issey Miyake, chemise & boots Hermès

dress & boots Hermès, belt Issey Miyake

knit & trousers Blugirl

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top Jacquemus trousers Off-White via Mytheresa gloves Balenciaga

hat Miu Miu via Mytheresa, top, trousers & booties Barbara Bui

Model—Jada at Munich Models, Hair & Makeup—Melanie Hoppe at Les Artists, Set Design—Michaela Willeit

jumpsuit Talbot Runhof

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Velours Photography—Renee Bevan Styling—Kristine Souza Art Direction—Ciaraleaf Meaney

ONE

dress Victoria Hayes

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top & dress Tibi

dress Creatures of Comfort, Sandal Laurence Decade

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top & dress Tibi

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coat Claudia Li

dress Christian Siriano

dress Victoria Hayes

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blazer & shorts Self-Portrait

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Model—Tricia Akello at Muse Models Hair—Levi Monarch Makeup—Toru Sakanishi Makeup Assistant—Anna Kurihara

blazer Christian Siriano

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coat William Fan

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Photography—Magnus Lechner Styling—Jessica Klimach at NinaKlein

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bra & blouse Belize, trousers Goetze, shoes & earring William Fan

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dark blue silk dress Michael Sontag, suit Aeron, shoes Miu Miu at Nightboutique

Left – bra Molli, blouse & shoes William Fan, trousers Vladimir Karaleev. Right – blouse Lala Berlin, blouse, trousers & earring William Fan, belt Ottolinger, shoes Miu Miu at Nightboutique

dress William Fan, boots Tom Ford at Nightboutique

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Left – bra Molli, blouse William Fan, Right – blouse Lala Berlin, blouse & earring William Fan, belt Ottolinger

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shirt Y/Project at Nightboutique, trousers William Fan, boots Tom Ford at Nightboutique, bracelet Michael Sontag Models—Pia Priewe at LeManagement & Luisa Moek at Seeds, Hair & Makeup—Carolin Jarchow at NinaKlein using Chanel

I T L sheer purple dress Cienne, white leather pants DROMe

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Photography—Gabriele Baldotto Styling—Nicholas Whitehouse

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parfume Men of Blame by Carlen Parfums 50ml spray Rahua Enchanted Island Salt Spray 124ml

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white cotton blouse Yigal Azrouel

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parfume Le Labo Santal 33 Fragrance 50ml

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white cotton blouse Yigal Azrouel

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hair & body oil Davines Authentic Cleansing Nectar 280ml, face mask Tata Harper Face Clarifying Mask Complexion Clearing Treatment 30ml, body cream Le Labo Creme Pur le Corps 250ml

navy dress Tibi

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eau de parfum Maison Louis Marie No.04 Bois de Balincourt 50ml

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navy silk top & pants Ji Oh

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face oil True Botanicals Pure Radiance Oil 30ml face cream Maison Louis Marie 360° Skin Revival Cream 50ml

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beige silk slip Creatures of Comfort, eau de toilette Rodin oilo lusso RODIN 3 100ml

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sheer purple dress Cienne, white leather pants DROMe

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spray Omorovicza Queen of Hungary Mist 100ml, oil MAKE Twilight Lip Oil & Remover 13.5ml

navy dress Tibi

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Model—Ilaria at Wilhelmina, Hair & Makeup—Nana Hiramatsu using Koh Gen Do Cosmetics, Production & Art Direction—Nicole Gavrilles

hair & body oil Davines Authentic Cleansing Nectar 280ml, face mask Tata Harper Face Clarifying Mask Complexion Clearing Treatment 30ml, boots Tom, body cream Le Labo Creme Pur le Corps 250ml

sheer purple dress Cienne, white leather pants DROMe

parfume oil Maison Louis Marie No.09 Vallee de Farney Perfume Oil 15ml spray Omorovicza Queen of Hungary Mist 100ml

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DESIGNER FEATURE

A Look into the life of CF. Goldman Photography—Osvaldo Pontón Styling—Olivia Weeden Hair—Moiz Alladina at The Wall Group Makeup—Maki H at The Wall Group

During the middle of freezing winter months in New York City, I always look to comforting thoughts of vacationing and warmer weather. Spending time inside with tea in hand and my heat blasting, I came across CF. Goldman’s Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear collection and I was immediately

mesmerized. A native New Yorker, Chelsea attended Central Saint Martins and received her B.A. in women’s wear from London College of Fashion in 2012. From there she honed her skills at various houses starting at Narciso Rodriguez during undergrad for an internship, to spending

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DESIGNER FEATURE

opposite page: shoes Isa Tapia

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shoes Isa Tapia

CF. GOLDMAN NO. 15

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time as one of Phoebe Philo’s first personal assistants at Céline – then in the design studio, and following a short time at Proenza Schouler before launching her own collection in 2014. Her experiences working both in Paris and London has been said to inform the unique blend of cultures that have translated into each of her collections.

Now based back in New York City, the brand’s unique sensibility thrived upon the tension between the European high concept design community and New York’s energetic and eclectic diversity.

In the interview that follows, I was able to ask Chelsea about how she got to where she is today, the growth of CF. Goldman over the past few years, the inspiration behind her recent collection and more.

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— Give us a little background; how did you get into design?

Has this been something you have always wanted to do, or did you fall into it? What was your childhood like? How has your childhood influenced (or not influenced) your work? I always knew. I also think the desire to make wedding cakes in middle school was a sign of my creative ambitions.

Sketching was one of the first things I remember doing.

My mother was a childrenswear designer and I would go with her to work and use her markers to sketch. I even interviewed for Philip Lim when I was 14 but they said I was too young so I would take classes at Parsons or FIT after school and find any way to sneak into fashion shows.

Growing up in the city [New York City] was also very inspiring with fashion being such an integral part of the culture here.

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DESIGNER FEATURE

opposite page: shoes Dear Frances

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DESIGNER FEATURE

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— Your most recent collection, as well as those of previous collections are very captivating yet approchable; it seems you enjoy using floral patterns and corset structured techniques. What led you to this idea? What was your inspiration or intention? Thank you! That is something that has taken a long time to develop. It’s a hard balance to make something that feels fresh and new for myself while making it wearable. The corsetry elements came from my love of classic craft and making. To make a corset requires a lot of traditional skills and I find it interesting to try and make that old work technique modern. I am fascinated by taking utility or men’s fabrications like liberty men’s shirting and creating something fresh.

WEAR

— Do you find yourself focusing more on texture, or structure? Why are these elements of design important to you? How do you use them to express yourself? I think great designs needs to be looked at in a holistic way. The texture can inform the shape or a shape can inform a texture. It’s nice to play with and contrast something - so creating large shapes that then are pulled in with a corset or making something very textured and pairing it with a flat belt. I find that contrast interesting.

— What is your process when approaching the creation of a new collection? It’s very involved and thoughtful. Each season I'm committed emotionally and put everything

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opposite page: shoes Isa Tapia

shoes Dear Frances

CF. GOLDMAN NO. 15

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DESIGNER FEATURE

into the next season — the process I enjoy and am always sad when it ends. When I start a new collection I try to start with a feeling that resonates with how I feel at that time, usually, the woman is feeling something similar. It will change a lot from that point and develop a grow as we see what looks right it’s very important to see it on a body and change from there we do the most work in fittings.

— How would you describe CF. Goldman's aesthetic?

Thoughtful, craft driven and modern.

— What was the most valuable lesson you learned from Phoebe Philo while working at Céline? To think about how the clothing will make a woman feel.

— Who has always inspired you from a styling perspective?

It’s really people I relate to everyday like my mother, my stylist Vittoria, the women we surround the brand with, and the artist Chloe Wise has amazing style.

— Describe the kind of woman you design for. The CF. Goldman women are confident women that are dressing for themselves and believe in quality over trend.

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Model—Kate Vitamin at Fusion Models, Assistant—Xiangyun Chen, Intro— Nicole Gavrilles, Questions— Danielle Peterson

CF. GOLDMAN NO. 15

"I T

WAS

C RAFT IT AND WE

IN WAS

REALLY TH E

CAN

B E AU T I FU L LY

BEGINNING.

ABO UT

FI G URING MAKE IN

ABO U T

MAKING, O UT

H OW

SO METH ING NEW

YO RK."

— What keeps you going and motivated to continue producing for CF. Goldman – what do you love about your job? My ability to create and make art while seeing it be put into the world in a tangible way women can enjoy.

— Can you tell us anything about the themes or inspirations for your upcoming collection? For Fall/Winter 2018, I’m looking a lot at contrast from a larger volume by beginning to take it in more. You'll also see an interpretation of utility contrasted with luxury.

— Where do you see your brand in 10 years? For the next 10 years, I would love to focus more on the creative side of the brand. I hope to grow our team and the infrastructure of the brand. Also, expanding and encompassing more of the world of CF Goldman, what does that look like for our woman. It might be interior or art or jewelry, having a more holistic approach to her life.

To learn more about Chelsea and view CF. Goldman's current and past collections, visit cfgoldman.com

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EM P OW E RI N G

SH AP E

Christy Turlington in Alaïa — Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue, May 1991

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EMPOWERING SHAPE

Remembering Azzedine Alaïa

Words—Danielle Peterson

Nicknamed the “King of Cling,” Azzedine Alaïa was famous for running a fashion house on his own terms. In Nov. 2017, he passed away at the age of 77 leaving behind a rich legacy of designs and stories of how he touched everyone’s lives by often encouraging self-love and empowerment. In a recent interview, his longtime friend Carla Sozzani said, “Nobody can be Alaïa.” And she was right. He was one of a kind.

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ALAÏA NO. 15

" OF THE

THE

FOU NDATI ON BEAU TY

IS

BODY.

"

Born in Tunisia, Alaïa’s parents were wheat farmers, but he became drawn to art and design at a young age. His twin sister Hafida and his family friends inspired his love for fashion, and as a child, he told a neighborhood midwife that he liked to draw. The woman gave him a book on Picasso and Vogue magazines. She later registered Alaïa against his father’s will at the School of Fine Arts in Tunis.

In 1957, Alaïa moved to Paris where he worked for Christian Dior and Guy Laroche. While working as a dressmaker and au pair for Marquise de Mazan and subsequently Comtesse Nicole de Blégiers, he became entwined in an elite private circle comprised of women who eventually became his first clients and helped him move in to his workshop in 1964. For several years Alaïa showed his collections to editors at home before he officially founded his own atelier in the late 1970s at the behest of Thierry Mugler.

Alaïa gained prominence in the 1980s when he produced his first ready-to-wear line and was voted designer of the year by the French Ministry of Culture.

In 1983, he expanded his sales to New York and Beverly Hills, and by then, his signature look had taken shape.

The fashion world dubbed him the “King of Cling” after

his infamous figure-hugging, body-loving designs. His styles defined a decade and were often seen on the likes of Madonna, Tina Turner and Naomi Campbell.

Known for experimenting with different fabrics and textures, Alaïa’s clothing featured leather-studded gauntlets, combinations of leather and lace, zippers and eyelets. He used materials that often molded to the body and even once created garments out of Relax, a fabric that NASA used for wall and floor coverings. Alaïa focused on tailoring over trends and followed the principles of corsetmaking to flatter women’s figures.

Throughout his career, the fashion world evolved but he refused in many ways to let industry standards influence his process. He was notorious for showing his collections only when he felt like it, he never advertised and never conformed to specific production schedules.

While other fashion houses were ramping up production, holding more shows and focusing on marketing, Alaïa made intimate presentations often held outside of show calendars at his headquarters in Paris.

Despite showing less often than other houses, Alaïa said he was involved in every process of design from the

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AL A Ï A

C O U TU RE

Azzedine Alaïa Fall 2011 Couture

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ALAÏA NO. 15

"THERE

IS

ABOUT

FABRIC.

ALL BE

A

I

MATERIALS I NVITING

TOUCH I

SKIN.

WATCH

THEY WHEN CHILDREN

THEIR

CLOTHES,

THINK SHOULD

WHEN

THE

STROKI NG

I

SENSUALITY

I

MOTHERS FEEL

HAVE

THAT

SUCCEEDED."

Hailey Clauson for Azzedine Alaïa Fall 2011 Couture

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EMPOWERING SHAPE

Azzedine Alaïa working in his studio, still from documentary by Stylist Joe McKenna

fittings to delivery. Always dressed in his uniform of black Chinese cotton pajamas, he worked long hours alone in his studio often plunging himself in to creative spurts. In the ‘90s, Alaïa went under the radar reemerging later in the decade and forming a new partnership with Prada.

From 2000 onward, his brand experienced a resurgence. In 2007, he purchased back control of his house from Prada and that same year he, his friend Carla Sozzani and his partner Christoph von Weyhe founded the Azzedine Alaïa Association.

Today, the association that aimed to build bridges between fashion, architecture, art and photography is transitioning into a foundation dedicated to preserving Alaïa’s life’s work. The institution is hosting a retrospective entitled “Azzedine Alaïa: Je suis couturier” from Jan. 22 to June 10 in Paris. The show will feature more than 40 pieces

including the dress Naomi Campbell wore to close out his final show in July, which marked his first show during couture week in six years.

There are currently no plans to replace Alaïa at his design house. Instead, the studio team will continue to work from his archives for now. Looking back on a great career that was so unique and contradictory to those of his colleagues in the fashion world, Alaïa will be remembered as a stand out from the masses. He sought to empower women by making clothes that accentuated their bodies, often liberating them and allowing them to feel confident and comfortable at the same time. After all he once said, “My obsession has always been to make women beautiful.

When you design with that idea in mind, nothing can out of fashion.”

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EMPOWERING SHAPE ARTICLE

Christy Turlington in Alaïa — Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue, May 1991 Fall 2011 Couture Runway shots — Vogue Runway Film still from documentary by Stylist Joe McKenna

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Domenico Petralia

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