ONE MAGAZINE ISSUE NO. 14 NYC
SUMMER 2017
the vibrant issue
14
N E W
Y O R K
C I T Y
B O S T O N
S A R A S O T A
E S TA B L I S H E D J U N E 2 0 1 0
CONTRIBUTORS
EDITORIALS
Alkan Emin, Carole Peyrot, Christine L u t z , D a m i e n F r y, K a i W e i s s e n f e l d , M i c a e l a M a n d o r ff, O l i v i a M a l o n e , Osvaldo Pontón, Ruo Bing Li
FASHION DIRECTOR
Amarsana Gendunova
All designs, creative and art direction were completed and produced by Nicole Gavrilles © ONE Magazine Nicole Gavrilles 2017 ONEMAG.US
F E AT U R E S
Arthur Arbesser
C O N TA C T U S
For questions or comments, email us at info.onemag@gmail.com
SHOP
Visit our page at Magcloud.com to view previous issues and purchase a print & digital issue I N F O R M AT I O N
I N F O R M AT I O N
SUBMISSIONS
Send all submissions to info.onemag@gmail.com
VISIT
For more information, visit onemag.us Read all past issues on issuu.com/onemagazine1
12
36
contents
Modern Utility Photos by Damien Fry
Mixed Matched 110
Photos by Ruo Bing Li
Arthur Arbesser 74
Photo by Olivia Malone
100
Double Sided
Blushing
Photos by Alkan Emin
Photos by Kai Weissenfeld
62
52
n o .1 4
Biophilia
Artistic Flow
Photos by Carole Peyrot
Photos by Osvaldo Pontรณn
the vibrant issue
24
86
Holder & Beholder
Show Don't Tell
Photos by Micaela Mandorff
Photos by Christine Lutz
mixed matched for one
mixed matched for one
ISSUE NO. 14
articles
110
Interview — Arthur Arbesser
Questions by Danielle Peterson Photos by Olivia Malone
122
8
Breaking in to The Boys' Club
Letter from Editor
Written by Danielle Peterson
Written by Founder, Nicole Gavrilles
I RAISE UP MY VOICE—NOT SO I CAN SHOUT, BUT SO THAT THOSE WITHOUT A VOICE CAN BE HEARD...WE CANNOT SUCCEED WHEN HALF OF US ARE HELD BACK. 14
L E T T E R
F R O M
E D I T O R
When I think of people today who symbolize this issue’s theme, the first woman that came to mind was Malala Yousafzai. Her presence in a room, the way she speaks, how she carries out her ideas and knowledge, is truly vibrant and beautiful. She is a perfect role model for women. And in today’s society, people have become more divided than we have been in a long time. However, we have come together and shown this year how strong we can be. A women’s strength usually blossoms from experience, knowledge and support. In this issue, you will see an array of interpretations of vibrancy through strength. We display vibrancy through light, color, patterns, emotion, genuinity, simplicity and more. It’s been a lot of hard work putting this issue together but I am proud of it’s outcome. Thank you to everyone who has been following or who are newcomers to ONE. Seven years strong and we continue producing issues because of the joy, excitement and inspiration it gives our readers. And I want to leave you all with another quote from Malala Yousafzai, “There are two powers in the world; one is the sword and the other is the pen. There is a third power stronger than both, that of women.”
F O U N D E R , E D I T O R AT L A R G E , D E S I G N E R
Nicole Gavrilles
14
E D I T O R I A L S
D E S I G N E R S
A R T I C L E S
NO. 14
m o d e r n Photography Damien Fry Model Liza O at Next Models Styling Steph Wilson at One Represents Hair Dayaruci at One Represents using Moroccanoil Makeup Kenneth Soh at Frank Agency using Works and NARS Casting Dean Goodman at The Goodman Creative Photography Assistants Sarah Whelan & Sam Deanman
u t i l i t y ONE
coat mr & mrs italy, top berthold, trousers palmer harding, shoes rejina pyo x yulia yie
yellow top & dress preen by thornton bregazzi, skirt carven, blue trousers isa arfen, shoes rejina pyo x yuul yie
hoodie christopher shannon
15
dress isa arfen
16
jacket & trousers mother of pearl, top jaeha
jacket freya dalsjø, orange dress jaeha, shoes rejina pyo x yuul yie
pink dress emilio de la morena, shirt monographie, trousers chalayan
19
top berthold, trousers palmer harding
20
jacket & dress by malene birger
coat haizhen wang, green dress rejina pyo, purple top preen by thornton bregazzi, shoes rejina pyo x yuul yie
top rejina pyo, trousers freya dalsjø
23
suit ysl vintage paris
NO. 14
h o l d e r Photography Micaela Mandorff Model Alice Morgan at IMG Styling Mia Rafolo Makeup Rika Bitton
& b e h o l d e r
ONE
jumper stephanie anspach, trousers ellery
26
coat burberry, double coat anne sophie madsen, top vintage
27
28
coat anne sophie madsen
29
jumper stephanie anspach, dress chloĂŠ, trousers ellery
rings & other stories
31
suit ysl vintage paris
32
coat burberry, suit ralph lauren, top jil sander, sandals acne studios
dress junko shimada, shoes stylist own
dress chloĂŠ
35
NO. 14
m i xe d Photography Ruo Bing Li Model Veronika Rusakova at Fusion Styling Yuiko Ikebata Makeup Liset Garza at The Wall Group
Manicurist Naoko Saita
Hair Tsukisawa Takayoshi
Set Design Abigail Benavides Photography Assistant Heng Qing Zhao Styling Assistants Alexa Levine & Melissa Belardo
m at c h e d ONE
pink organza coat kimhekim, pink inner top icb, red tights we love colors, heels inside tights amelie pichard
red top & trousers viva aviva, gloves lacrasia, red tights we love colors, heels inside tights amelie pichard
top nika tang, blue tights we love colors
39
coat escada, earring sasai jewelry
40
blue top prabal gurung, orange choker escada, orange tights we love colors
pink top & skirt jason wu, purple tights we love colors, gloves carolina amato
blue top prabal gurung, orange choker escada, orange tights we love colors
43
red top viva aviva, gloves lacrasia
44
top nika tang, blue tights we love colors
red crop top orseund iris, white top & gold trousers jil stuart, blue tights we love colors
coat escada, white bustier orseund iris, purple tights we love colors
47
blue top prabal gurung, orange choker escada, white earring sasai jewelry
48
dress kimhekim, white top oreseund iris, green tights we love colors
pink organza coat kimhekim pink inner top icb red tights we love colors heels inside tights amelie pichard
51
jacket queenie cao, dress tibi, earrings anndra neen
NO. 14
art— i s t i c Photography Osvaldo Pontón
Hair Bennett Gray
Model Caroline at Elite
Manicurist Kana
Styling Olivia Weeden
Set Design Lauren Bahr at Kate Ryan
Makeup Eric Vosburg
Assistant Jon Ervin
fl ow ONE
sweater monse, shirt viva aviva, pants icb, earrings laruicci
top monse, skirt jackson weiderhoeft, earrings laruicci
55
top nika tang, vest christian siriano, skirt viva aviva, earrings victoria hayes
dress kelsey randall, corset orseund iris, earrings laruicci
57
dress jason wu, top viva aviva, earrings laruicci
58
top jackson weiderhoeft, bodysuit gypsy sport, earrings victoria hayes
coat sea dress jason wu earrings laruicci
61
NO. 14
bio p h i l i a
Photography Carole Peyrot Model Ali Osk at Silent Models Paris Styling Justine Allain Hair & Makeup Liv Holst Photography Assistant Pauline Gouablin Retouching Aucoindelarue.ca
ONE
coat & dress lacoste, shoes issey miyake
top & shorts chloĂŠ
65
body alexandre vauthier, earrings vanrycke paris
66
coat & pants pleats please issey miyake, bra hermès, shoes leather crown
68
dress zucca
69
tank & pants lacoste, bra maison lejaby
70
jumpsuit stella mccartney, body lacoste, earrings vanrycke paris
top acne studios, earrings vanrycke paris
73
NO. 14
d o u bl e s i d e d Photography & Art Direction Alkan Emin Model Aluad at Lang Management Styling Nicole Contador Hair & Makeup Vanessa Jarman at P1M using MAC Cosmetics
ONE
jean around neck siwy denim, bodysuit fausto puglisi, wrapped jean shirts around waist frame, one teaspoon and scotch & soda
lighter denim shirt frame, darker denim shirt topshop, pants sacai, scarf as belt nordstrom, bracelet armed jewelry, shoes gianvito rossi
76
jean around neck siwy denim, bodysuit fausto puglisi, wrapped jean shirts around waist frame, one teaspoon and scotch & soda, heels topshop
jean jacket unif, jean shirt scotch & soda, pants chloĂŠ, silk scarf nordstrom, choker stylist owned
jean jacket unif, jean shirt scotch & soda, pants chloĂŠ, silk scarf nordstrom, choker stylist owned
79
cardigan scotch & soda, dress, bandana & necklace stylist owned, heels gianvito rossi
81
jean jacket unif, jean shirt scotch & soda, pants chloĂŠ, silk scarf nordstrom, choker stylist owned
82
jacket zara, skirt sacai, scarf nordstrom, shoes topshop, jewelry stylist owned
vest scotch & soda jean shirt mendocino jean dress marques/almeida choker & white shirt worn on head stylist owned red silk scarf halogen shoes gianvito rossi
85
vest tiger of sweden, swimsuit marlies dekkers, shorts lovestories, bangle vibe harsløf
NO. 14
sh ow Photography & Retouching Christine Lutz Model Jemma Hansen at MUGA Model Styling Lisa-Maria Lohmann Hair & Makeup Evelyn Innerhofer Photograaphy Assistant Vanessa Timmen
d o n' t t e l l ONE
bra & other stories, necklace head&heart studio
88
pants p.a.r.o.s.h.
top ba&sh, panty aubade, rings margova, slippers santoni
91
body agent provocateur, tights fogal, shoes jimmy choo
92
top philomena zanetti, panty sessÚn, earclimber lola&grace, bangle vibe harsløf, socks fogal
top aubade, panty scotch & soda, bangle vibe harsløf, earclimber lola&grace
95
slippers santoni
96
blouse drykorn
dress m missoni, pullover baum & pferdgarten, shoes schoshoes
bra & other sotires, tights kunert, trousers 5preview, necklace head&heart studio
99
coat hermès
100
NO. 14
b l u s h — Photography Kai Weissenfeld Model Franziska Stegemann at Model Management Styling Natalia Witschke at Nina Klein Hair & Makeup Kerstin Huesges at Nina Klein
i n g black velvet pullover stein rohner
ONE
bustier & pants marina hoermanseder
jacket marina hoermanseder, panty miu miu
103
bag prada
104
leather jacket calvin klein jeans, sunglasses dior
jacket marina hoermanseder, panty miu miu
belt brada
107
trenchcoat joseph
108
coat sportmax
Arthur Arbesser Photography Olivia Malone Model Lane at Heroes Fashion Editor Amarsana Gendunova Makeup Ingeborg using Kevyn Aucoin Hair Takuya Sugawara at Walter Schupfer Set Design Zen Sevastyanova Questions Danielle Peterson
Born and raised in Vienna, Arthur Arbesser has been hailed as a rising star in the Milan fashion scene. After graduating from Central Saint Martins, Arbesser worked for Giorgio Armani for seven years before starting his eponymous women’s wear label in February 2013. Since he debuted his first collection in his friend’s apartment in Milan, Arbesser’s momentum has shown no signs of slowing. Five months after founding his own label, he won Vogue Italia’s and Altaroma’s “Who Is On Next” competition. In 2015, he was a finalist for the
110
A R T H U R A R B E S S E R • I N T E R V I E W • N O . 1 4
ARTHUR ARBESSER
FA L L 2 0 1 7
112
A R T H U R A R B E S S E R • I N T E R V I E W • N O . 1 4
113
A R T H U R A R B E S S E R • I N T E R V I E W • N O . 1 4
"I fell in love with the power of clothing when I realized how powerful a costume is and how it can change everything from your posture t o y o u r b e h a v i o r ." — ARTHUR ARBESSER
— how do you think your upbringing in vienna impacts your point of view as a designer? do you think it makes you stand apart from other italian brands?
LVMH Prize and became creative director of knitwearfocused brand Iceberg, where he stayed for a year before parting ways to focus on his own line. In the last four years, Arbesser’s penchant for combining fashion, architecture and design has drawn praise from the fashion world. His love for fusing these elements together can be found in his fashion shows and in his collaborations, such as his work with home-design company Hem and Silhouette Eyewear. Critics acclaim the fresh perspective he brings to Milan Fashion Week and his knack for combining geometric shapes, knitwear and clean tailoring. In a relatively short time, Arbesser has achieved something people strive for their entire careers. In a city that is veiled in history, he forged his own path among famed Italian fashion houses and not only managed to succeed but also managed to stand out.
Arthur Arbesser: Vienna is still one of my main inspirations! I guess my love for certain linear, strict lines but also a focus on square, graphic patterns come from there. Also, my slightly romantic point of view. So that naturally makes you stand apart from other Italian brands. — when did you know you wanted to work in fashion? AA: From a very early age... I guess my love for fashion came through the theater and the opera. As a child in Vienna, I was a real nerd and literally lived at the opera
115
A R T H U R A R B E S S E R • I N T E R V I E W • N O . 1 4
or the theatre. I fell in love with the power of clothing when I realized how powerful a costume is and how it can change everything from your posture to your behavior.I hope to give added value to high-quality items, and create and release things that are not found on every street. — describe your creative process.
— what was the most important lesson you learned while working at armani? The importance of fabrics, to always check on everything, and that if something carries your name then you are entirely responsible.
— your shows often combine elements of design and architecture. how do you think It often starts with a conversation- Let's say, for these areas complement fashion? example, about the life and work of an artist. Then I go and do loads of research and really create a mood and As a private person, I am actually more drawn to dive right in. Music is always a very important element the world of design, fine arts and architecture than too, and normally the show's music accompanies the fashion. I think a show should always be an emotional whole design process. Loads of images are accumulated experience and should ideally not only show great but one or two are always there on the board right from clothes but somehow enhance the experience through a the start. Also, fabrics are part of the process from creative way of presenting or an unusual location or set. the beginning because a special material can really With each show and collection, I really try to tell a story. influence your ideas.
116
A R T H U R A R B E S S E R • I N T E R V I E W • N O . 1 4
"Every collaboration helps you broaden your horizon and o p e n y o u r e y e s t o a d i ff e r e n t field. People are much stronger together than alone. Creative exchange is vital for an interesting result. In my case, t h i s r e s u l t s h o u l d b e c l o t h e s ." — ARTHUR ARBESSER
119
A R T H U R A R B E S S E R • I N T E R V I E W • N O . 1 4
— how would you describe your brand’s aesthetic?
I think today the most important part is to really find your aesthetic and your own way and then stick to it no matter what.
It's very personal! But you could say: Clean, refined lines that contrast with bold graphic patterns and colors. — what are your long-term goals for your brand? — you have been a part of several To stay independent, continue to develop my own collaborative fashion and design efforts. creative language and to love what I do as much as right what is the best part of collaborative now. experiences, and how do they help you grow as a designer? — can you tell us anything about the Every collaboration helps you broaden your horizon themes or inspirations for your upcoming and open your eyes to a different field. People are much collection? stronger together than alone. Creative exchange is vital for an interesting result. In my case, this result should The Fall-Winter 2017 collection was inspired by the Wim Wenders movie "Wings of Desire.” So, circus, east be clothes. Berlin in the eighties and a naive romantic note were the main ingredients. — what advice would you give to young designers? I feel it's almost not right to be already the one who to view arthur arbesser's current gives advice, but what I have learned is that you can collection and his past collections, visit never make everybody happy (and that's a good thing!). arthurarbesser.com
120
A R T H U R A R B E S S E R • I N T E R V I E W • N O . 1 4
121
B R E A K I N G I N T O T H E B O Y S ' C L U B • A R T I C L E • N O . 1 4
CLARE WAIGHT KELLER
CLARE WAIGHT KELLER
122
a time of change
Breaking in to The Boys' Club Words Danielle Peterson Images InDital Images & Feudiguaineri
As technology advances and the desire for instant gratification grows, the fashion world has often struggled to keep up with the nature of today’s demand cycle. Designers are now under immense pressure to sometimes turn out four to eight shows a year depending on the breadth of the label’s collections. The new highintensity requirements of the fashion world place huge burdens on designers and likely lead to the rapid
123
B R E A K I N G I N T O T H E B O Y S ' C L U B • A R T I C L E • N O . 1 4
turnover that is now prevalent in the fashion industry. Despite the change from long-term residencies to short stints as creative directors, one thing remains the samethe top positions are filled with significantly more male designers than female.
His influences led to graphic sweatshirts, sportswearinspired ensembles and embellished couture pieces that will likely be relics of the past now that Waight Keller is at the helm. Her first collection will debut in October, and if her work at Chloé is any indicator, critics can likely expect a softer and more elegant look from Givenchy come fall.
Recently, four women are changing the landscape of these male-dominated roles. In March 2016, Lanvin named Bouchra Jarrar the label’s artistic director, making her the first woman to lead Lanvin since Jeanne Lanvin founded the brand in 1889. In July 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri became the first woman director at Dior in the brand’s 69-year history. Now, two more designers will join the ranks of women making waves - Clare Waight Keller and Natacha Ramsay-Levi.
On April 3, Natacha Ramsay-Levi joined the slim ranks of women creative directors. The designer will now lead Chloé and fill the void left by Waight Keller. A loyal right-hand woman to Nicholas Ghesquiére, RamsayLevi worked under the designer at Balenciaga for 11 years before moving with him to Louis Vuitton where she served as the creative director of women’s Readyto-Wear. Now, she will get her chance to shine as a solo director for the storied Parisian label that launched the careers of designers like Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo. In a statement, RamsayLevi said, “I am very proud to join a house founded by a woman to dress women. I want to create fashion that enhances the personality of the woman who wears it, fashion that creates a character and an attitude, without ever imposing a 'look.’” Ramsay will get her chance to do so during the Spring 2018 shows when all eyes will be on this new designer to see if Chloé can make another star.
Waight Keller started at Givenchy on May 2 and is now the first female director the French house has ever had. After serving as the creative director at Chloé for six years, her appointment at Givenchy will likely mark a shift and a return to the roots that once made the house loved by Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy for its elegant styles. Founded by Hubert de Givenchy in 1952, Waight Keller’s predecessor Ricardo Tisci transformed the label with his connections to celebrities like the Kardashians and his enthusiasm for hip-hop culture.
124
DIOR RESORT 2018
B R E A K I N G I N T O T H E B O Y S ' C L U B • A R T I C L E • N O . 1 4
LANVIN FW17
125
B R E A K I N G I N T O T H E B O Y S ' C L U B • A R T I C L E • N O . 1 4
spring 2017
fall 2015
CHLOÉ BY CLARE WAIGHT KELLER
126
B R E A K I N G I N T O T H E B O Y S ' C L U B • A R T I C L E • N O . 1 4
fall 2015
spring 2016
GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI
127
B R E A K I N G I N T O T H E B O Y S ' C L U B • A R T I C L E • N O . 1 4
LOUIS VUITTON FA L L 2 0 1 7
128
B R E A K I N G I N T O T H E B O Y S ' C L U B • A R T I C L E • N O . 1 4
"I want to create fashion that enhances the personality of the woman who wears it, fashion that creates a character and a n a tt i t u d e , w i t h o u t e v e r i m p o s i n g a ' l o o k .’ " — N ATA C H A R A M S AY- L E V I
These four new appointments signal a potentially exciting shift in the fashion industry and will hopefully be the first of more to come. Women founded many of the world’s leading brands, but when the labels gained success, male designers replaced them. In the past, the reasoning could have been linked to the belief that men could manage big businesses better, but these days the immense pressure that is often placed on designers could play a large part in the lack of female leadership on the creative side.
Designers are now required to awe audiences with very few breaks and very little turn-around time. These demands are both mentally and physically taxing, and designers such as Raf Simons and Alber Elbaz have cited them as hindrances to their ability to lead a normal life. Women designers face the same challenges but also have the additional pressure of balancing a family. Although this gender bias is prevalent in all industries, the fact that more females are being appointed to highlevel roles marks a positive change that will hopefully signal to other labels that not only can women start fashion houses, but they can lead them too.
129
14
F I N
CREDITS All images used in articles and features are credited along with each page they are featured on. All photographers featured own full rights to their images Quote on Letter from Editor Malala Yousafzai Breaking into the Boys' Club Article Runway & Detail shots — indigitalimages.com, indigital.tv, feudiguaineri.com Claire Waight Keller, Umberto Fratini Dior Resort 2018, Jonas Gustavsson Lanvin Fall 2017, Kim Weston Arnold Chloé Fall 2015, Marcus Tondo Chloé Spring 2017, Umberto Fratini Givenchy Spring 2016, Monica Feudi Givenchy Fall 2015, Monica Feudi Louis Vuitton Fall 2017, Umberto Fratini Back Cover Olivia Malone
ONEMAG.US