





ost people have heard the joke about the two types of boaters. It goes like this: “There are two types of boaters out there, those who have run aground and those who will.” As far as jokes go, it’s pretty accurate. Most boaters I know have hit some under water “thing” at some point in their lives. I won’t go so far as to call it a rite of passage (it really should be avoided at all cost) but I will say that once you do it, you sure try not to do it again.
But those aren’t the only two types of boaters out there. A recent cruise aboard a friend’s 30-foot sailboat got me thinking about this. My friend is the fastidious, cautious type. Our plan was a short sail to Thetis Island for supper at the pub, a night on the dock and pastries at Telegraph Harbour Marina the next morning before returning home. Every detail was meticulously planned well in advance. My friend relies on multiple apps for wind, tide and weather information and utilises multiple systems for navigation. Very little is left to chance. The “over-planner” is a common type of boater and there is nothing at all wrong with that approach.
On the other hand, there is the spontaneous “go with the flow-er”—another type of boater who I run into regularly (metaphorically speaking). As we loaded the boat and engaged in final preparations for our one-night cruise to Thetis Island, a dock neighbour stopped by for a chat. “Ol’ Jim” we call him. He’s a regular down at the dock. He keeps his sailboat in working condition and certainly takes pride in
her, but polishing and varnishing are frivolous extravagances, and if looked at askance, his boat has something of a pirate ship appearance to it.
A free spirit like Jim doesn’t need planning or preparation, so when we told him we were headed to Thetis Island later that morning he said, “great, I’ll join you! Let me fill up my fuel tank and I’ll be ready to go.” My friend looked up from his checklist and cocked his eye at me. When it was time to go, I asked Jim if he wanted a hand leaving the dock. “No, no,” he said. “I always singlehand.” Then, “follow me, I know a shortcut.”
Jim motored out of the dock and had his sails up in short order. We quickly followed suit. Thankfully, Jim’s “shortcut” was already part of the plan and we followed him through easily. He arrived at the marina a few minutes ahead of us and I watched as he jumped off his boat with lines in hand, only slightly bumping the dock as he came to rest. We ate an early supper with Jim and afterward he untied and motored home. “You aren’t going to spend the night?” we asked. “Oh, no. I want to catch the sunset on my way home.”
I’d like to think I fall somewhere in between these two types. I do plan my trips in advance using Windy, Navionics and a chart plotter. I want everything to go smoothly, but I am open to changing plans according to wind and whim.
Neither type is right or wrong, but I would suggest that one type is more likely to avoid running aground, at least for a little longer.
—Sam Burkhart
EDITOR Sam Burkhart editor@pacificyachting.com ART DIRECTOR Arran Yates AD COORDINATOR Rob Benac COPY EDITOR Margaux Perrin
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Send your letter, along with your full name, and your boat’s name (if applicable), to editor@pacificyachting.com. Note that letters are selected and edited for brevity and clarity.
I was reading through Alex Fox’s column in the June, 2024 issue and he described “opting for a letterbox takedown.” It got me wondering, what is a letterbox takedown?
—Janet McCoy
Hi Janet,
A letterbox takedown is a method of dousing the spinnaker between the foot of the mainsail and the top of the boom, then down through the main companionway, kind of like a letter slot. This technique is most commonly used on keel-
Jacks. The closest boatyard to Desolation that you’ve never heard of! Jacks can lift boats up to 60 feet and 40 tons. Work yard, short term and long term storage available. Marine store for all your boating needs. Open 7 days a week all summer long. Emergency towing, parts replacement and repairs. Call us at 604-483-3566 jacksboatyard.ca Lund. BC
boats with larger spinnaker area. Preparation involves leading the lazy sheet or lazy guy over the boom, then down below, where a crew member is poised to pull it in. Typically, the helmsperson will bear away, putting the spinnaker in the lee of the main. The takedown begins when the spinnaker collapses. Once the clew is through the slot, the tack and the halyard are then quickly eased with the crew gathering the excess sail and feeding it down through the hatch. The idea here is greater control, with less chance of the sail catching on the lifelines, cabin top winches and clutches or worse dragging in the water.” —Alex
08/2024
This is a local news-driven section. If something catches your attention that would be of interest to local boaters, send it along to editor@pacificyachting.com.
Do you know where this is?
Thanks to everyone who entered last month’s challenge. Local knowledge proved invaluable on this one as many of the correct entries came from boaters who live south of the border. This month’s winner is Aubrey Friesen who correctly guessed Rolfe Cove on Matia Island. Send your guesses to editor@pacificyachting.com for your chance to win a PY drink koozie.
Commercial Street Night Market
Nanaimo, Thursdays from 17:00–21:00
Every Thursday night, Commercial Street comes to life with more than 200 artisan vendors, food trucks, live entertainment, kids activities and more. Just a five-minute walk from the Nanaimo Port Authority, come enjoy local businesses and the Nanaimo community. See a full list of vendors and events at nanaimochamber.bc.ca/ nanaimo-night-market.
Mosaic Arts & Culture Festival
Pender Island, August 2–4
Come experience this very special Mosaic Festival, that brings art and culture for all to enjoy. Produced by Ptarmigan Arts, the festival celebrates the diversity of the land we live on and people who inhabit it. Featuring live performances, workshops, demonstrations and nature-based programming from local and regional artists, it’s worth a visit. Buy tickets at themosaicfestival.com.
Comox Nautical Days
Marina Park, Comox, August 3–5
The 66th annual Comox Nautical Days returns for the August long weekend. Enjoy the BC Day parade along with the Vintage Car Show. With rides, games, crafts and a splash park, it’s fun for all ages. With over 100 craft booths and food trucks to choose from, there is also a fireworks show on the Monday Night. Visit comoxnauticaldays.com for more info.
Orca Fest
Port McNeil, August 17
The Vancouver Island’s North Island region is set to put on a lively event this August. The weekend brings together locals and visitors for a taste of coastal community vibe. Baseball games, inflatable activities and a five-kilometre foam run happens alongside an artisan fair, live entertainment and many delicious culinary treats. Get a full scope of what to experience at facebook.com/groups/orcafest.
The summer is in full swing, but it’s not too early to start submitting content for PY’s annual Summer Cruising Roundup. Our roundup of summer boat gatherings will be published in the December issue and we’d love to hear how you and your friends made the most of the cruising season. Information on rendezvous and boat meetups, along with photos can be sent to editor@pacificyachting.com
Deadline: October 15
There is a fresh look and new name for this iconic non-profit Canadian organization. For more than 85 years, the Canadian Power and Sail Squadron has provided safe boating education and training for recreational boaters. To continue leading the way for the next generation of boaters, they have brought a modern feel and touch to their branding.
“After months of market research, it was clear we needed to modernize our focus. We are very respectful of our past journey which has given us the impetus to improve the direction of our future,” said Lise Blais, chief commander.
The new logo features a red maple leaf and a blue wave symbolic of the boating
lifestyle on our rivers, lakes and oceans. The new name is shorter and identifiable to those interested in becoming part of the nation-wide boating family. “The objective of the new brand was to refresh our name and visual identity. We also felt the need to successfully appeal to younger boaters to take our courses, become members and volunteer,” said Bruce Kelley, national marketing chair.
During the transition, the new branding will appear on the Canadian Power Squadron website, print and electronic media, trade shows and social media. The feel is a very clear statement; “Belonging to this organization speaks to Canada, Boating and YOUR ability to boat—Yes you CanBoat!” said Vanessa Schmidt, naional marketing and graphics manager. More info at cps-ecp.ca.
Our vintage Pacific Yachting logo T-shirts are back in stock. These popular branded tees are awesome for summer and fall adventures on the water and land. Gildan fitted shirts come in sizes small, medium, large and extra-large. Long sleeve available too. This is a great gift for the boater and reader in your world. $30 for short, $40 for long, order yours at pacificyachting.com/py-tees.
ANCHOR MARINE
Victoria, BC 250-386-8375
COMAR ELECTRIC SERVICES LTD
Port Coquitlam, BC 604-941-7646
ELMAR MARINE ELECTRONICS North Vancouver, BC 604-986-5582
GLOBAL MARINE EQUIPMENT Richmond, BC 604-718-2722
MACKAY MARINE Burnaby, BC 604-435-1455
OCEAN PACIFIC MARINE SUPPLY
Campbell River, BC 250-286-1011
PRIME YACHT SYSTEMS INC Victoria, BC 250-896-2971
RADIO HOLLAND Vancouver, BC 604-293-2900
REEDEL MARINE SERVICES
Parksville, BC 250-248-2555
ROTON INDUSTRIES Vancouver, BC 604-688-2325
SEACOAST MARINE ELECTRONICS LTD Vancouver, BC 604-323-0623
STRYKER ELECTRONICS Port Hardy, BC 250-949-8022
WESTERN MARINE CO Vancouver, BC 604-253-3322
ZULU ELECTRIC Richmond, BC 604-285-5466
You’re looking at it! Furuno’s award-winning Radar gives you clarity & target separation like no one else. Don’t take our word for it. See for yourself. Scan here, and we’ll show you!
Beginning August 1, 2024, the US Center for Disease Control (CDC) has introduced new rules for taking your dog into the United States by land, air or sea. So, if you are planning a cruise to the San Juan Islands or Puget Sound and wish to bring along your pooch, you’ll be obliged to follow these rules. The new regulations are applicable to all dogs, including service dogs, even if born in the US. And dogs residing in the US that leave the country and then re-enter, must also comply.
The CDC rules are strict and state: “Dogs that do not meet all entry requirements or do not have accurate and valid forms will be denied entry to the United States and returned to the country of departure at the importer’s expense.”
The CDC has issued these new rules, they explain on their website, to prevent the spread of rabies and to meet health standards. The centre has des-
ignated countries as having “low” or “high” incidences of rabies; Canada falls in the low category. The bottom line? Your dog must have a microchip implanted. Although rabies shots are not required for dogs coming from Canada, it’s highly recommended your dog has them as some states require them for entry
Here’s an overview of the new regs for dogs entering by sea. To enter the United States, all dogs must:
• Be at least six months of age.
• Have an International Organization for Standardization (ISO)-compatible microchip that was implanted before its rabies vaccination. The microchip number must be included on all required forms and veterinary records.
• Appear healthy upon arrival and not carry a disease contagious to people.
• If the dog appears unhealthy, undergo isolation and veterinary testing to determine if the dog has a contagious disease.
• Have these forms: a CDC Dog Import form printed receipt completed online two to 10 days before arrival, or just before travel, or at the border crossing (if you have internet access), including a photograph of the dog’s face and body (it is recommended you complete this paperwork before leaving home). Have a Certification of Dog Arriving from a Low-Risk Country form endorsed by a Canadian veterinarian, and valid rabies serology titer or veterinary records (with the microchip number) for the dog six months before travelling to the US; or a Certification of Foreign Rabies Vaccination and Microchip form, completed by a Canadian veterinarian in the previous six months. The form must be completed within 30 days before arrival and is valid for a single entry.
Other rules apply if your dog has travelled to countries at high risk for dog rabies.
Be diligent and carefully read the website for timing and time limitations for importing your dog.
—Marianne Scott
Linda Gabris
Linda Gabris has been venturing into the outdoors to harvest wild edibles for over 60 years. The lessons taught to her by her grandparents, of responsibility, sustainability and a connection to the land are as important today as they were then. This book shares those lessons as well as tips and practical advice in a personal, easy-to-read style. Combined with a scientific field guide, Wild Harvest BC is the perfect companion book to take with you on your outdoor adventures.
After a three-year battle, Stewart Frye succumbed to leukemia with family at his side on June 14, 2024. Stew, and his wife Jean were one of the founding couples of the Canadian Chris Craft Rendezvous and continued to support the rendezvous even after selling their Chris Craft. An avid outdoorsman, Stew was always on an adventure with family and friends where fishing, hunting, camping and boating were his lifelong passions. A celebration of life will be held at Capital City Yacht Club, September 21, 2024 at 14:00.
he rallying cry leading up to the 50th anniversary of the WVYC-RNSA-NYC Singlehanded/ Doublehanded Regatta was “50 entries for 50 years” and the story goes registration closed eight minutes after the 50th registrant entered this year’s event.
West Vancouver Yacht Club, the Royal Naval Sailing Association, and Nanaimo Yacht Club once again collaborated to organize this two-day race. This year’s fleet was fairly evenly split with 21 singlehanded entrants and 29 doublehanded entrants across a broad crosssection of yachts, racing skills and experience levels.
The Saturday race from Point Grey to Cape Roger Curtis to Nanaimo started in a pleasant 10-knot southeasterly that built to 15 to 18 knots for the broad reach across the strait. The downwind start featured a full fleet of spinnakers with most boats carrying a spinnaker of some kind after rounding the Cape Roger Curtis mark. The author’s own Longboard (a Riptide 35 with 70-yearold Stewart Jones as co-pilot) reveled in the conditions reaching across the Strait of Georgia with full A2 spinnaker, J2 jib, and full main, averaging over 10 knots and beating the committee boat to the finish line just over three hours from the start.
A little while later Alex Smyth sailing singlehanded in the J/111 65 Red Roses finished first across the line—the most impressive maneuver of the day was observing Alex conduct a perfectly executed spinnaker peel from A2 to A3 on a pretty tight reach—huge shoutout to his outstanding shorthanded
Peter Chance.
sailing skills and autopilot for hanging in there!
Most of the fleet finished by the middle of the afternoon which allowed the celebrations on the dock to start early. Race Chair, Bernie Yau, emceed a fun evening, acknowledging RNSA dignitaries, handing out 50th anniversary pins, and non-stop swag from an amazing of race sponsors.
Sunday morning dawned early with an ominous weather forecast that promised a building southeasterly breeze as the fleet beat across the strait home to the QA Mark and then on to the finish off Point Grey. Winds at the start were around 10 to 12 knots and the rain held off (temporarily). As the fleet sailed on the long starboard tack across the strait, the wind started to build and backed in to the northeast making the QA mark eventually a dead upwind beat in more than 20 knots of winds and driving rain.
Once again, Longboard finished first on elapsed time in the doublehanded division and 65 Red Roses finished first in the singledhanded division. Kudos to John Robertson’s J/109 Legacy which narrowly beat out Longboard on corrected time for Leg 2. As the afternoon developed, the retirements started to mount with the conditions proving a little too challenging for a significant portion of the fleet.
Thanks to all the race sponsors, Race Chair and PRO, Bernie Yau of WVYC, John Horton of the RNSA and all the volunteers at WVYC, RNSA and NYC for making the event such a wonderful experience for us all. For full race results go to wvyc.ca/on-the-water/racing/wvyc-rnsa.
—Peter Salusbury
By Bill Kelly, $49.95
The current Best Anchorages of the Inside Passage is out in bookstores and available at our online bookstore for direct shipping. It’s a must-have guidebook for experienced cruisers and beginning boaters.
First published in 2006 and now in its third printing, this all-encompassing guidebook has been updated with new information to help boaters explore this vast coastline. More than 250 anchorages are covered—from Victoria and the Gulf Islands to Desolation Sound, the Broughton Archipelago, Bella Bella and Shearwater on the Central Coast. Hundreds of photographs and over a hundred detailed colour charts of the anchorages enhance the authors’ descriptions
and pilotage advice—information gleaned from over 30 years cruising the BC coast.
All passes encountered along the way are covered with local knowledge that will help and encourage cruisers new to the strong currents of the West Coast. “The key to any pass is to know something about its character. How strong is the current and how quickly does it ramp up? Are there hazards within the pass to be wary of and is there a set within the pass? These are key bits of information that we’ve tried to include for every pass in our book,” William Kelly, co-author said. With a sense of adventure and a copy of Best Anchorages of the Inside Passage, you can find your own dream anchorage along our beautiful coast.
By Linda Gabris
OP Media Group 2023, $24.95
Linda Gabris has been venturing into the outdoors to harvest wild edibles for more than 60 years. The lessons taught to her by her grandparents, of responsibility, sustainability and a connection to the land are as important today as they were then. This book shares those lessons as well as tips and practical advice in a personal, easy-to-read style. Combined with a scientific field guide, Wild Harvest is the perfect companion book to take with you on your outdoor adventures. With seasonal fruits, greens and mushrooms harvested all over the province, it’s a great book to have on hand while hiking, walking in the forest or planning a foraging trip around. Recipes ranging from Wild Cream of Asparagus Soup to Hazel’s Hazelnut Brittle will help turn your foraging finds into delicious, hearty meals. So get out there and enjoy the bounty of Mother Nature.
Both books are available to buy on our online store at thebookshack.ca
THE R-27 THE CUTWATER FLEET INCLUDES THE
MODELS: C-248C, C-288C, C30S, C-30CB, C-32 & C-32CB THE RANGER TUGS FLEET INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING MODELS: R-23, R-25, R-27, R-29 S, R-29 CB, R-31S, R-31 CB, R-43S & R-43CB
If there were a single element that was the lifeblood of marine ecosystems, it might be eelgrass. Known to many boaters and marine enthusiasts, but mistakenly considered as seaweed by many, this perennial flowering plant is a major player for the climate, sustains hundreds of marine species and protects coastlines.
Eelgrass produces oxygen and captures 10 percent of the ocean’s annual Eelgrass is incredible: Is it included in your trip planning?
carbon storage, according to scientists at the US Environmental Protection Agency. Its shoots provide shelter and a safe haven for many species, including juvenile salmon, herring,
surf smelt, Dungeness crab and nudibranchs. It provides foraging opportunities for birds, while creating a barrier to reduce coastal erosion. But eelgrass is disappearing.
• Corrosion free composite drive legs eliminate the need for anodes
• Drive legs are pre-filled with oil and then sealed for life for zero maintenance
• Tunnels are made
Scientists estimate seagrasses are being lost at about 1.5 percent, globally, every year. The United Nations quantifies it as the world’s oceans losing the equivalent to a football field of seagrass every 30 minutes.
Canada does not have a national scientific monitoring program for assessing eelgrass sites, although there is a network of organizations and jurisdictions, including SeaChange, Pacific Salmon Foundation and Cowichan Land Trust, that are participating in community eelgrass mapping and restoration initiatives across the Salish Sea region.
In Washington State, the Department of Natural Resources has a legal mandate to conserve and restore 10,000 acres of kelp and seagrass by 2040, and there is support from cross-sector coalitions, including the Friends of the San
Juans, working to improve the survival of eelgrass by reducing the detrimental impact of anchors and propellers.
Eelgrass is declining, in part, because it is susceptible to the more frequently occurring heat waves, disease and land-use changes. As boaters we can
be mindful of not aggravating those threats with our activities and keep in mind that eelgrass often grows along shorelines and in estuaries, thriving in shallow and soft intertidal areas.
—Jacob Banting, Georgia Strait Alliance
Here are some important considerations for boaters when it comes to delicate marine environments and eelgrass meadows that might not always be visible:
• Go anchor free and adhere to voluntary no-anchor zones, such as Bowen Island’s Mannion Bay, Gibsons near Armours Beach, and in Washington State along the Port Townsend waterfront, in Mystery Bay and Port Hadlock.
• When in doubt, anchor out! By anchoring more than seven metres from depths at zero tide, or where you can feel that the seabed is hard, you’ll give eelgrass and the species that rely on it the space they need.
• Research where eelgrass grows before you go, especially when travelling transboundary, so you can avoid inadvertently anchoring above an eelgrass meadow. Visit sogdatacentre.ca for more information.
Haul out (30 to 130ft)
Custom stainless steel
Blasting, painting, coatings
Mechanical, plumbing
Pneumatics, hydraulics
Steel & aluminum welding
Custom woodwork & decking
Engine repower & retrofit
Steering controls, rudders
Shafts, propellers, zincs
Electrical repair & retrofit
BY JAMES BARBER
IIn the May issue, we covered the basics of cooking delicious eggs on board. For this issue, we take it a step further with two variations on the basic piperade, as well as a yummy breakfast tortilla recipe.
The classic version puts small, diced sweet red pepper in with the onions.
If you want to get fancy, you can add a handful of chopped parsley for the last two or three minutes of cooking, or half a teaspoon of dried thyme when you add the tomatoes. You can slice a couple of celery stalks very thin and add them with the onions. Another option is to fry a couple of slices of bacon crisp, take them out of the pan and use the fat in it instead of adding oil; crumble the bacon and stir it into the eggs at the last minute, or leave the bacon in slices and dump the eggs over top.
I’ve eaten these eggs with smoked salmon or sliced corned beef, I’ve had them over canned corn and I’ve had them with curry powder and chili powder added to the onions, with mushrooms sliced very thin and fried from the beginning with the onions. I’ve eat-
en them on toast, fried bread or rolled in a pita. I’ve had them with crumbled feta and sun-dried tomatoes sprinkled over top at the last minute. I’ve eaten them for breakfast, lunch and supper. They’ve all had different local names. Your crew will probably call it “that thing you do with eggs and tomatoes.” It’s very versatile—just don’t overcook it.
This is an easy 10-minute supper recipe
INGREDIENTS
•4 eggs
•1 medium onion
•1 clove garlic
•1/2 small can of tomatoes
•1 handful of chopped salami
•Salt & pepper
COLUMN GALLEY
1. Cook one medium onion and one clove of garlic chopped fine in a quarter-cup of water until the water is all gone.
2. Stir in half a small can of diced tomatoes (or one tomato chopped fine, juices and all). Bring to a simmer and stir in four eggs beaten with pepper, salt and your herb of the day.
3. Add a handful of chopped salami and cook, stirring gently with a fork held flat to get the egg off the bottom of the pan, until the egg looks almost cooked.
4. Serve immediately (the egg will continue to cook and be done by the time it gets to your mouth).
Doing nothing on a boat is almost impossible. In fact, it takes a lot of determination. Forget the varnishing, the polishing, the cleaning out of lockers and the rest of the job list. Instead, decide to do nothing at all—just sit and relax, turn off the cellphone and the radio and let yourself melt into the special motion of a boat going nowhere. A couple of beers, a bottle of gin, a book or some Mozart—it’s a psychic massage, the purest of self-indulgences.
But you have to eat. And the doing nothing includes cooking. Or, rather, not cooking… Which brings us to tortilla española. Italians call their version frittata; North Americans approximate it with the Denver omelette, and the Japanese edition is okonomiyaki. They’re all slightly different, yet very much the same—dead easy, comforting and filling. You can make it at home for boxed lunches or on the boat for a quick brunch. You can eat it cold or hot, or cut it into elegant wedges and have a quick party. I like to take it down to the boat and eat it all. By myself.
You’ll need six eggs, an onion, a large potato and some salt and pepper, plus some thyme, rosemary or cayenne pepper flakes (your choice—any or all of them).
•6 eggs
•1 onion
•1 potato
•Thyme, rosemary or cayenne pepper flakes (any or all of these)
•Salt & pepper
METHOD
1. Dice the potato into pieces a bit smaller than sugar cubes and cut the onion even smaller. Fry them in three tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the potatoes are just tender.
2. Beat the eggs with one teaspoon of salt, a half teaspoon of ground pepper and the herb or spice of your choice.
3. Pour the eggs over the potatoes, turn the heat to low, cover the pan with a lid or a plate and cook about 10 minutes until the top is just firm.
4. Put a plate over the pan, hold it firm and flip the pan over so the nice brown side of the tortilla is up. Slide the tortilla back into the pan, cook two minutes, and that’s it. Let it cool in the pan and you’re ready to go to the boat.
When you’ve made it once, try it again. Use fresh (even frozen) asparagus or green beans instead of the potatoes and add chopped ham or garlic sausage if you have it. You can add bits (not too much) of almost any vegetable chopped small, or chopped crispy bacon. Frozen peas are fine too, if you shake them out of the packet and let them defrost for five minutes. Chutney from a jar goes well with it, and so does good bread and red wine. The only art with a tortilla is in flipping it, but be bold and suddenly you’ll know how.
This peaceful anchorage is a great stopover in a storm, or any time you need a little relaxation in the San Juans
BY DEANE HISLOP
IImagine a gunkhole where you feel almost unreachable, a ruggedly beautiful corner of the world far enough from everything that only wildlife can be seen socializing on the rocky shoreline. That’s what Arlene and I have been treated to every time we
visit peaceful Parks Bay on the western shore of Shaw Island.
Situated only two miles across San Juan Channel from the hustle and bustle of Friday Harbor, lies lovely Parks Bay. Popular with boaters seeking peace and quiet, the bay is a delightful little cove, surrounded by lush forest and room for perhaps a dozen boats to swing on the hook.
On our last visit we found the secluded half-mile-long and a quarter-milewide bay void of boats—we had it all to ourselves. The mirror-like water reflected the deep green of the surrounding trees. Although there’s room for
a dozen boats, we’ve never seen more than eight at a time. Visitors in Parks Bay tend to be quiet as they absorb the tranquil mood.
Feeling a bit guilty for breaking the glass surface and tranquility of the cove, we slowly guided Easy Goin’ deep into the bay. The hook was set in 20 feet of water over a good holding mud bottom. The chart notes the head of the bay is fouled with dolphins, however, we’ve explored the area in the tender and found no evidence of the pilings where the dock once resided. But we still exercise caution and stay clear of the area because there is plenty of good
anchoring elsewhere.
Although open to the winds from the north, the bay is bomb proof when it comes to winds from any other direction. A couple years ago a friend and I were spending a few days in the islands fishing when a storm warning was issued for late the second afternoon and through the night. We decided to spend the night in Parks Bay and what a good decision that turned out to be. The southerly winds were measured in Friday Harbor at 50 knots and there was hardly a ripple in the well protected bay all night long, making for a good night of rest.
We always enjoy the wildlife when visiting this hidey-hole and this stay was no different. Eagles soar on huge, outstretched wings high above while otters frolic in the water below. Herons stand for hours on the rocky shore waiting for a snack to swim past. We frequently witness otters and seals frolicking in the bay or sunning on the rocky shoreline. This evening a couple of deer emerged from the thick emerald forest and grazed on the grass above the rocks. During the fall months the bay is a lay-over location for migrating ducks and geese, all making for wonderful wildlife viewing.
We have experienced some of the most beautiful sunsets while visiting Parks Bay and this stopover didn’t disappoint. During the summer months the sun sets right in the mouth of the bay making a wonderful ending to the day.
The following morning, after enjoying breakfast and coffee on the back deck, we launched the tender and set out to explore the bay’s shoreline. Keeping an eye on the trees revealed eagles, king fishers and owls monitoring the bay’s activity, while mink, raccoon and river otters scurried across the rocky shore line. During the fall months, when the bay is full of migrating ducks and geese, there are wonderful opportunities for wildlife viewing and photography.
If you and your crew enjoy foraging for your meal, there are crabs and prawns available, when in season, just out of the bay. At times, the area also provides some good salmon fishing.
The only drawback to Parks Bay is what makes it wonderfully peaceful. There are no public tidelands, the entire shore is posted “Scientific Research Area, Positively no trespassing on tidelands or uplands and no dogs.” It’s a University of Washington Biological Preserve on about 1,100 acres. The land
donated to the university by the previous owners, the Ellis family. If you have children or a dog that need a shore run, this is not the place to anchor.
That evening, after dinner, the weather forecast prediction was for winds to build out of the southwest to 25 knots, but we could rest assured knowing our anchorage would remain calm, providing an excellent night of rest.
For true peace and quiet in the heart of the San Juan Islands consider visiting Parks Bay.
NOAA Charts: 18421, 18434
Nearest Marina: Port of Friday Harbor, 360-378-2688
At 31+ feet long and just under 10 feet at the beam, the Adventure is the biggest, toughest, most capable boat we’ve ever built. The 55° bow entry deadrise keeps you safe as you cut
By Anne Vipond & William Kelly
Active Pass is a beautiful channel abundant with wildlife, towering bluffs and impressive hydraulics.
NNavigating BC’s coast requires getting used to a few strange things. When floating on the ocean, hundreds of metres above solid earth, our senses require recalibration.
Things far away at sea might appear menacing or weird but on closer look, could turn out to be just a tree stump or, as we’ve experienced, a 4,000-pound elephant seal taking a snooze. One time a huge basking shark, nearly the length of our boat, glided alongside our hull. This was, to say the least, unnerving.
Yet perhaps the strangest natural phenomena boaters must deal with are tides and currents. The fact that water moves along our coast is a subject that can cause confusion, especially for boaters who are used to cruising on lakes.
Tides and currents do seem mysterious at first. The feeling of your vessel being swept along with the current in a pass can be alarming but, with experience, most boaters learn the skills of transiting straits and passes. And the motivation is warranted, because getting through the passes will lead to greater adventures, such as remote anchorages in the wild beauty of our coast. In this series, we will visit the passes lying between the Gulf Islands and Cape Caution. Our opening feature examines the passes of the Southern Gulf Islands.
Be sure to have all the proper charts and tide tables and to use either the
printed version of the Sailing Directions for the South Portion of the British Columbia Coast or the free digital edition PAC 201 for Juan de Fuca Strait and the Strait of Georgia.
An apt name for a strip of water that not only straddles the Canada–US border but also presents a bit of a navigational challenge if conditions are breezy. This eastern entrance to Haro Strait separates the Gulf Islands from the American San Juan Islands to the south and is not an especially tricky pass as long as the wind is not too strong against the current. Boundary Pass is part of the main shipping route, so it’s prudent to cross at right angles and make the transit as quickly as possible if travelling to or from the United States. Westbound ships rounding
East Point can very quickly be on a collision course with you.
Although Boundary Pass is wide— over 2.5 miles—currents can exceed five knots off the east end of Saturna Island. On strong floods, tide rips and overfalls form off the north end of Patos Island and tremendous turbulence forms in the reefs and shoal water extending from Tumbo Island and East Point on Saturna Island—the main turning point for flood currents entering the Strait of Georgia via Haro Strait. When wind is against tide, steep seas will form south and east of East Point. During an ebb, the current sets onto this reef, as the captain of the barque, Rosenfeld, discovered in 1886 when his vessel, in tow from Nanaimo, ran on the rock now bearing the ship’s name. As the Sailing Directions notes, on the ebb, the current runs in surges that form eddies while the flood runs more evenly.
East Point on Saturna Island was
widely considered the most dangerous point on the shipping route between Vancouver and Victoria until a foghorn was installed in 1938. The original lighthouse was erected in 1888 and later replaced with a utilitarian steel skeleton tower. The historic fog alarm building has been restored as an interpretive centre for visitors coming to this heritage site. Killer whales are frequently sighted in the waters off East Point and we have been escorted by Pacific white-sided dolphins when crossing Boundary Pass.
Further west, the currents diminish to about three knots on spring tides, but flood current can be quite strong along the south side of Pender Island to Tilly Point.
This is the main pass for commercial and recreational vessels heading in and out of the Gulf Islands. It is an S-shaped channel complicated by the regular transits of large, wavegenerating ferries. These BC Ferries, often travelling at speeds of 10 knots or more in the pass, can kick up a lot of wash and must be given the right of way. Some pleasure boaters avoid Active Pass because of the ferry traffic, but they are missing a beautiful channel abundant with wildlife, towering bluffs and impressive hydraulics. It is also a forgiving pass in the sense that currents aren’t usually excessive for
small boats and there are ways to work the back eddies if you have a good motor and missed slack.
However, Active Pass remains a challenging stretch of water and requires a skipper to be on full alert from beginning to end. The ferry traffic is almost constant and the recreational boater should never obstruct or impede the course of a ferry in these restricted waters. Remain alert for approaching ferries, which usually transit the pass at about a quarter to the hour. In addition to keeping a close eye on the points of land ferries come around, you can monitor their arrival on VHF. Ferries normally announce their arrival at Active Pass on Channel 16, but it’s a good idea to contact Victoria Traffic
East Point was widely considered the most dangerous point on the shipping route between Vancouver and Victoria until a foghorn was installed in 1938.
on Channel 11 to receive details and make them aware of your presence. Although your arrival should be at slack for this pass, we have often found ourselves arriving at the Strait of Georgia entrance when a flood is underway. Over the years, we’ve watched fishing boats and other craft use the back eddies to get through and we too have employed this method. When inbound, we motor between Fairway Bank and the green can buoy at the south end of Gossip Shoals. We stay within a cable of the buoy, keeping close to it and the Galiano Island shoreline as we make our way toward Mary Anne Point. Once around this point, we normally are able to make our way through the pass, keeping to the Galiano Island side. However, during large floods the current is strong at Matthews Point and we sometimes have to cross over to Lord Point on Mayne Island. We work close along that shore until arriving at the large kelp bed east of Helen Point, where we cross back over to the Galiano Island side to continue through the pass.
The area from Helen Point to Collinson Point is where the current is
the strongest on a flood (up to seven knots on the Mayne Island side) and where you may be tempted to turn up the engine revs to get free. If it looks dicey or the current appears to be too strong, you can turn around and motor back into Georgeson Bay to wait for the current to slacken.
From Enterprise Reef in Trincomali Channel, flood currents rapidly gain speed near Helen Point. The stream makes a beeline to the bluffs on the opposite Galiano shore, where it turns 90 degrees to starboard. When this stream combines with ferry wash, there can be tremendous overfalls and rips in the area west of Matthews Point.
This main stream sets close to Matthews Point (a dangerous area during a strong flood) and races to Reserve Point, where it makes another course change toward Laura Point. As it approaches Laura Point, the current splits, with some of the stream turning right into Miners Bay while most of the water goes out into the Strait of Georgia. The stream that turns into Miners Bay creates a clockwise flow
Location (48˚52’N, 123˚20’W) between Mayne and Galiano islands.
Maximum Flow
Flood, 8 knots. Ebb, 7 knots.
Slack
15 minutes on large tides.
Westbound: Whaler Bay and Sturdies Bay. Eastbound: Village Bay.
Hazards
Ferry traffic. Heavy tide-rips near Gossip Island, Fairway Bank and near Lion Islets on flood with a northwest wind. Whirlpools and tide rips south of Mary Anne Point.
Key to safe transit
Arrive at or close to slack; be alert for ferry traffic, monitor channel 11 or 16 and keep to the starboard side of channel. Harbour Commission 250-539-5808
of water—a flywheel—which continues well after the flood has ended and often slows the onset of the ebb. This flywheel can cause severe rips where it meets the main stream in the area southeast of Mary Anne Point. The spinning direction changes with the ebb to become counterclockwise.
The flood current generates a large backeddy on both sides of the pass from Mary Anne Point into the Strait of Georgia. If you’re bucking a flood, the Galiano Island side of the pass should be favoured, for it has less turbulence than the Mayne Island side, and the backeddy can be taken up to and around Mary Anne Point. If the current is too strong here, you can cross over to the Mayne Island side and wait in Naylor Bay or Miners Bay for slack.
An ebb current is generally less turbulent, although ferry wash will continue to be a problem for small recreational boats throughout the pass.
Generally speaking, rips are not as bad during ebbs.
If you don’t want to transit Active Pass after a late-evening crossing of the strait or need a spot to wait for slack water, there is a useable anchorage in Whaler Bay just inside the reefs at Cain Point. Further into the bay
is a public dock that may or may not have space but be aware that the water is very shallow near the dock. I’ve anchored just inside the first reef opposite Cain Point.
You can also wait for slack in Sturdies Bay, anchoring southwest of the ferry dock in about 20 feet of water.
There is a small loading dock alongside the ferry dock. Miners Bay is a possible overnight location, either at anchor or at the public dock, operated by the Southern Gulf Islands Harbour Commission. The dock’s south side is for small craft while the north side is for seaplanes only.
This narrow, reef-strewn pass connects Winter Cove with the Strait of Georgia. During prohibition, rumrunners used Boat Passage to dodge government revenue boats patrolling the Strait of Georgia. It can be transited at high-water slack and is used as a shortcut by small boats heading to Cabbage Island or across the strait. Boaters can take a close look at tidal streams rushing through Boat Passage from the vantage of Winter Point which is reached by trail from the marine parks dinghy dock in Winter Cove.
Currents in Boat Passage can reach six knots or more, with dangerous
whirlpools during spring tides. There is also a pronounced set onto the rocks extending from Ralph Grey Point on Samuel Island. Should you decide to attempt it, do so at high water (HW) slack (when the pass will have about 15 feet of depth) and, if eastbound (heading out into the strait), proceed
slowly in the middle of the channel. Keep parallel with the stream (and the Saturna shoreline) until you are about 90 metres east of the entrance, then turn to port to clear the south end of Anniversary Island. Charts 3477 and 3313 give good detail of Winter Cove and this pass.
Another shortcut from the Gulf Islands to the Strait of Georgia is through Georgeson Passage, between Curlew and Samuel islands. Upon clearing Samuel Island, turn to starboard and navigate between the islands southwest of the Belle Chain Islets. Continue either north
out into the strait or south past Russell Reef if proceeding to Cabbage Island or beyond. Vessels proceeding north into the strait can also take the small pass between Georgeson Island and the reef extending from Mayne Island, being careful to transit at high water when there is depth of more than 20 feet. We have found the deepest water lies about 15 metres (50 feet) north of Georgeson Is-
land. Currents in Georgeson Passage can reach five knots between Curlew and Samuel islands.
Anne Vipond and William Kelly are the authors of Best Anchorages of the Inside Passage—the newly revised second edition is now available at bookstores and chandleries.
Six Gulf Island galleries you must visit this summer
This contemporary, nonprofit community centre dedicated to arts and culture hums along smack dab in the community of Sturdies Bay.
By Cherie Thiessen
ONCE AT ANCHOR, it’s important for boaters to know where they can find the best pubs and grubs, venture to the warmest swimming holes and get information on what’s happening at each port. But, beyond all of that, many boaters are also art lovers. Finding something unique and fun to do at the next port of call is what the cruising lifestyle is all about. Plus, who doesn’t enjoy watching an artist transform a canvas?
I’ve chosen five galleries that support our gifted local artists—places where you’re going to meet the locals and get a real island experience. Except for Welch’s gallery on Mayne Island, there’s moorage or an anchorage nearby. (But don’t fret, Terrill Welch will even come to pick you up if you set it up in advance). Guaranteed to be no pressure, no stress, no snobbery—just welcoming, gifted artists and a variety of experiences that combine creativity with the laid-back friendliness islanders are known for.
Established in 2017, Yellowhouse is an exciting and diversified island cultural hub offering a wide variety of arts initiatives. Imagine pulling up to the tiny dock beside the ferry terminal or tying up briefly at the Galiano Inn docks and then walking over to the Yellowhouse Art Centre on a Friday and immersing yourself in the art-making processes led by local artists.
In May of this year their new purpose-built art space opened to music, celebration and an art display by talented Galiano artist, Rachael Peters.
“Our vision is to inspire creative interactions; to see the creative community in action. Our purpose is to help inspire and facilitate creativity in our community and beyond. We have ongoing courses, residencies and workshops and beginner, emerging and established artists to showcase their work through bi-weekly or monthly exhibitions,” says co-founder and creative director, Roksan Parfitt. This is much more than a gallery—it’s all the arts
rolled into one. Check out the website and even sign up for some of the activities in August. In any event, there will always be art hanging on the Yellowhouse walls.
Be sure to spare a few
minutes to visit the Galiano Inn’s reception area where the co-operatively created mural Kunamokst takes up an entire back wall. You can read about it on their website. Be sure to reserve if you want dock space here.
Sturdies Bay Moorage: crd.bc.ca/service/docksmoorage/sturdies-bay
Galiano Oceanfront Inn: galianoinn.com
Yellowhouse Art Centre Galiano: yellowhouseartcentre.ca
2.
Kim Pollard Gallery North Pender Island
Boaters arriving at Hope Bay may recall this gallery as where the Red Tree Gallery Co-op was once located, or later where Ptarmigan Arts had their community gallery set up. The current artist in residence has moved from her much smaller studio to this grand venue and in addition to painting here, has laudably continued the tradition of showcasing other island artists along with displaying her own stunning work. Since this is also her studio, it’s fun to watch Pollard work so deftly with the tiniest of brushes, or to browse the gallery where the wide selection of art is displayed.
“I’ll be open from Tuesday to Sunday, 11 til three, Pollard tells me. “And I will continue to feature a plethora of magnificent local artists.”
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This gallery gets top marks from me because of its beautiful location, its wide selection of local art and affordable small treasures, like fused glass, ceramics, jewelry and wire sculptures. On top of it all, she has an excellent presentation of these treasures, along with her own work. You can tell Pollard is a pro
at curating. And could the fact that the gallery is right beside Pender Chocolates be another plus? Being able to treat your taste buds as well as your eyes isn’t too bad.
If the public docks are full, there are also a few mooring buoys visiting boaters are welcome to tie up to temporarily.
Hope Bay, Pender Island moorage: crd.bc.ca/service/docksmoorage/hope-bay
Kim Pollard Gallery, Pender: kimpollard.com
Peninsula Gallery
Sidney
This Beacon Avenue gallery always stops me in my tracks. Vivian Chen, the gallerist and curator, seems to know how to arrange art to catch the eye, with help from business partner and custom framer, Mitchell Jones.
This time, I’m pulled in by the steel sculptures that greet me at the door—a head, a torso and legs circled on high plinths. The installation, called Poetry by Cory Fuhr, is a showstopper. Then, the eye is cleverly led to Eternal Spring, a 30x60 acrylic canvas. The artist, Sandy Terry, is a wellknown Sidney painter who only completes about five
pieces a year. Chen explains that it takes the artist about eight to 10 weeks to create each work because she applies about 15 layers of paint. The works here are definitely world class. Chen’s partner sees me eyeing the ‘play me’ piano and tells me it’s popular. People come in to play, even to sing. “It all helps to develop a sense of community,” Jones stops his framing to tell me. “We want people to hang out in here. It’s a safe setting for all ages. Even dogs are welcome.”
I love how the gallery has been divided into different areas so that I keep finding myself in a new space with new surprises. I also love that there’s a lot of inexpensive and small artistic goodies that won’t break the bank. Browsing is welcome too. A couch and refreshments complete the welcome.
The gallery has been around since 1986, Chen tells me she took it over in 2020. “All of our artists are local. The gallery business is notoriously difficult but my passion keeps me in it. Selling art has always been
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challenging because many people don’t consider it a necessity but one day it will become essential. A world without art is much colder and duller.” I second that!
Your nearby moorage is the Port Sidney marina. If you’ve just stopped here for a short visit and the sea is calm, you can always drop the hook near the beach in front of Beacon Avenue.
When You Go
Port Sidney Marina: portsidney.com
Peninsula Gallery: pengal.com
4.
Terrill Welch Studio Mayne Island
This summer, the Terrill Welch Gallery has a solo show of all her new paint-
ings in a fun venue in the woods. It’s worth a visit to see this gallery alone, a 105-square-foot shipping container holding between 15 and 25 paintings. Additional works are also available in the artist’s separate home studio.
“My process is to first take in the spirit of a place through observation, plein air and photographic studies. This is followed by developing paintings that incorporate my imagination along with these observations on larger oil on canvases in the studio. I most often paint wet into wet until the work is completed in layers over several immersive days in a row,” Welch tells me. “The gallery pod is open daily 11 to four year-round for walk in self-browsing,” she adds. She says that gallery visitors are often invited to come into her separate art studio in her home to see
what she’s working on or to watch her paint either in the art studio or on location—plein air painting at one of the beaches or along forest trails. That’s what I’d call a day well spent! Welch is also the artist in residence for the Mayne Island Resort, so boaters anchoring in Bennett Bay can combine lunch or happy hour visits with an art show. There are 32 of the artist’s works in the resort. This highly accomplished artist has never had a problem selling her art. She says she generally sells half to twothirds of everything she releases year after year.
When You Go Miners Bay, Mayne Island Moorage: crd.bc.ca/service/docksmoorage/miners-bay
Terrill Welch Gallery: terrillwelchartist.com
5.
Shavasana Gallery Mayne Island
A short walk from the public docks in Miners Bay, the Shavasana Gallery is all about fun. Through to October this year, you will find 10 well known
Mayne Island artists, most of whom I have profiled in the past for various media. Check out the artists online as well as the gallery’s opening days and times. George Bathgate is himself an artist and you can check out his folk art as well. The variety and scope of the works is part of the fun. Bathgate’s gallery has become a popular hangout for locals, so while you’re here you’re going to meet lots of them and if you stay long enough, you might even become an islander yourself. Coffee, tea and baking are available and if you are there on a Monday, there’s jam sessions from 14:30 to 17:00. What I love about this place is the fact that it’s an island hub, the eclectic collection of art is ever changing, you can sip your coffee while you browse or enjoy the gorgeous views of Active Pass, and, of course, meet the ebullient Bathgate himself. Be sure to check out the gallery on social media and on the website as the proprietor keeps all events up to date online.
Miners Bay, Mayne Island Moorage: crd.bc.ca/service/docksmoorage/miners-bay Shavasana Gallery: shavasana.ca
6.
Salt Spring Gallery of Fine Art Ganges, Salt Spring
The largest of the Southern Gulf Islands, Salt Spring Island, is not surprisingly an artist mecca. When we pull up to the Breakwater Float, I’m looking forward to seeing the new exhibit at this artists’ co-op. There are over a dozen galleries and studios on the island and several more excellent galleries in Ganges, but this is the only artist-owned collective—owned, operated and run by the artists themselves. At least one of the artists is always present and they are always approachable. I love the freshness of the work here. It’s not surprising one of the gallery’s
mantras is ‘Fresh–Local–Art’. There’s just a buzz here, an almost palpable passion for art. The art choices here are considerable as well— ceramics, stained and fused glass, textile art, sculptures, photography and paintings, along with shows that change every three weeks. From August 16 to September 4, it’s Shannon Wardroper, a well-known contemporary textile artist and educator.
The gallery maintains an excellent Facebook and Instagram presence so if you’re planning a visit, I recommend checking these sites first as there are often events happening.
You’ll find that visiting these Salish Sea galleries on your next cruise is a great way to enjoy art while savouring the scenery and meeting local islanders.
Salt Spring Gallery: saltspringgallery.com Moorage is available at two private marinas and two public docks. (Kanaka Harbour and Breakwater Float.) It’s first come first served at the Salt Spring Harbour Authority docks. saltspringharbours.com
Ganges Marina: gangesmarina.com
Salt Spring Marina: saltspringmarina.com.
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Once upon a time, there was a young man who fell in love with an inlet. If you have ever visited Princess Louisa, you will have little doubt as to why. Princess Louisa Inlet, or swiwelat, is a fjord branching off Jervis Inlet (lekw’emin) on the Sunshine coast. On a chart, Princess Louisa looks like a small finger pointing northeastward. It stretches approximately four miles from its entrance at Malibu Rapids, to Chatterbox Falls at its head. To cruise down the inlet feels at once distant and intimate. Smooth, calm water lies quietly in the gorge between dramatic granite rockfaces that plunge into its depths. The surrounding snow-capped mountains rise up to 7,000 feet, with shimmering waterfalls cascading down fissures in the rocks. It’s a wild place, and around certain bends it looks practically untouched—but this, of course, is not true.
For over 2,000 years, the shíshálh (Sechelt) peoples have travelled and fished up and down the inlet, and a shíshálh village site was once located at its entrance. Aside from oral histories, cinnabar pictographs on rockfaces up and down the coast are visual reminders of the Indigenous peoples who lived there long before the arrival of European explorers.
Captain Vancouver and his crew travelled up Jervis Inlet in their search for the Northwest Passage. Although they found the entrance to Princess Louisa, they did not explore it. The European names originate from Captain George Richards’ surveys in 1860, who clearly drew from royalty in an attempt to grant the place the majesty it deserves, naming the reaches Prince of Wales Reach, Princess Royal Reach and Queen’s Reach respectively. However, royal does not even begin to describe the splendour of this magical place.
MY FIRST TRIP up to Princess Louisa was a long time coming. I had heard about the inlet many times over the years, but the idea of making the trip did not grab my attention until I read M. Wylie Blanchet’s The Curve of Time, which prompted me not only to travel to Princess Louisa, but also to buy my first boat. The Curve of Time has been hailed by critics as a BC classic, for good reason. From the first page, Blanchet draws you into her world—that of a widowed mother-of-five and captain of her 25-foot cruiser—as she navigates BC’s coastal waters over the course of several summers in the 1930s. After reading Blanchet’s memoirs, I was inspired by her grit and tenacity, as well as her adventurous spirit. I so desperately wanted to visit the places she describes and see them for myself.
My first sail to Princess Louisa was thus highly anticipated and planned well in advance. I read everything I could get my hands on in preparation. One such book was Mac and the Princess, by Bruce Calhoun, published in 1976. Although Calhoun attempts to incorporate Indigenous histories of the region by way of excerpts from an interview with shíshálh knowledge keeper and elder Clarence Joe, the book mostly revolves around the story of James (Jim) F. Macdonald.
James F. Macdonald was born in Seattle in 1889. The story of his life is like something out of a Patrick DeWitt novel—a quirky swashbuckler’s pioneer journey. After his father died, Jim spent a lot of time with his uncle Fred who regaled him with stories of his voyages abroad. After two years attending Boston Tech, uncle Fred had run away to sea on a square rigger, sailing all over Asia. Inspired by his uncle, Jim, along with a friend, left to see the world for themselves. They went first to the Hawaiian Islands, then to Japan. From there they travelled to China, the Philippines, Malaysia, Singapore and eventually ended up in India. From India, they went on
MAC & THE PRINCESS
to Egypt and spent some time in the Middle East. They travelled west, and when they reached London, they at last ran out of money. After raising funds by selling a valuable camera and putting on lectures showcasing their adventures from their world tour, they were able to buy tickets to sail to New York, where they separated, and Jim alone continued home. He attended Amherst College briefly and later transferred to UC Berkeley in California. He did not re-
main long in one place, and soon took off on a European tour.
When he returned home from Europe, Jim could not shake the wanderlust. He explored the Pacific Northwest at every opportunity, and always had the intention of visiting a small inlet in British Columbia he remembered his uncle telling him about. Uncle Fred had sailed to Princess Louisa on his 50-foot schooner in 1906. Jim wanted to see the granite mountains that plunged into the sea and experience the peaceful isolation his
uncle described. For all his travelling, Jim would not be satisfied without seeing Princess Louisa. But then the First World War came.
When the war ended in 1918, Jim remained in the army for a time. He met a young German military deserter on a train and the two became friends. To disguise his past, the young man named himself Finnigan and worked as a cook’s helper in logging camps to make ends meet. Jim and Finnigan kept in touch, and in the summer of 1919, Jim received a letter from his friend. Finnigan, it transpired, was visiting a man named Herman Casper who lived at the entrance to Princess Louisa and invited Jim to come and stay. The stars had aligned. He spent a month at the inlet that summer, exploring every nook and taking in the majesty and grandeur of the inlet. Indeed, he fell head over heels for this place and made a promise to himself to return one day and acquire some land.
THOUGH HIS PLAN may have seemed fanciful to some, James F. Macdonald was not just a dreamer. He reached out to an old contact and began work in the grocery business. By 1927, he had a few thousand dollars saved up, and Jim filed for a crown grant on a piece of property at the head of Princess Louisa. A team of surveyors arrived to estimate the property’s value. They spent 10 days on the project and concluded that there were 42 acres of mostly flat land and around 250 vertical acres. Jim paid $420 for the property and the deal was done.
James F. Macdonald was not the first, or indeed the last, to fall in love with Princess Louisa Inlet. Herman Casper, with whom he had stayed the summer of his first visit, was still his closest neighbour at the head of the inlet, but Jim (who began to be known as Mac) was not destined to be lonely. He started building a cabin from peeled cedar logs on the flats not far from the falls. While he was building, he had his first visitors.
A 25-foot cruiser called Caprice arrived at the falls carrying Muriel Blanchet and her children, who visited the inlet often during the summer months.
“I hate you,” were the first words Muriel ever said to Mac according to Bruce Calhoun. She was devastated that the property at the falls had been bought and feared development would ruin the inlet. But she soon got to know Mac and his plans and decided he was not as bad as she feared. They went on to become friends. Blanchet refers to Mac as ‘the man from California’ in her memoirs.
Mac returned to his cabin at Chatterbox Falls every summer. He welcomed every type of yachtsman and sailor, from the Blanchets to famous Hollywood actors. He became the unofficial host for cruisers visiting Princess Louisa and was known for his kindness and generosity.
IN THE SUMMER of 1940, he brought a bride home to Princess Louisa. He had kept up correspondence with a pen pal from years back, and somewhat out of the blue she wrote to him and suggested they get married. They did. He and his bride were enjoying the splendour of the inlet by boat one day, but when they returned to the falls, they were horrified to see the cabin up in flames. It tragically burned to the ground, along with their vows, and that was the end of the marriage.
Shortly after the fire, Mac was offered a tempting sum for his property but refused to sell. He wanted to see the inlet protected for generations to come. Mac continued to visit the inlet in the summers but instead of rebuilding the cabin, he stayed on a houseboat called Seaholm As he got on in years, he decided it was time to pass on the responsibility of safeguarding Princess Louisa. In 1953, he deeded his property to a trust set up by boaters and sailors called the Princess Louisa International Society. The society eventually passed on the responsibility of maintaining the property to BC Marine Parks in 1964. Mac’s last
summer in the inlet was 1972. He was 83 years old. He died in 1978.
Mac’s legacy lives on to this day. I was grateful to have had the opportunity to visit the inlet this past summer. It was a four-day trip for us to sail to Princess Louisa from our moorage in Winter Cove on Saturna Island. With a 9.9 horsepower outboard and a preference for travel under sail, our little Haida 26 forces us to slow the pace of life and enjoy the journey. We set off between 05:00 and 06:00 each morning and anchored between 14:00 and 16:00 each afternoon. We had ideal wind the first few days and made good time on our sail plan. We spotted humpbacks just outside Gabriola Pass and had porpoises following us on our way to an anchorage at Jedediah Island. On our third night we tied up at Egmont Marina, the last
fuel stop before reaching the inlet.
AS WE SET off from Egmont the next morning, a part of me was worried the inlet would not live up to my lofty expectations. I used to work on a ship in Norway and have seen some of the most beautiful fjords in the world. But in the end, Princess Louisa did not disappoint.
The most challenging part of this trip is undoubtedly navigating the seven to 10-knot current at Malibu Rapids at the entrance of Princess Louisa. Here, timing is everything. We checked the tides and carefully planned our arrival at the rapids, passing through without a problem. It was a hot day and we were grateful to be inside before the sun rose above the surrounding mountains. We hugged the coast and stayed in the shadows best we could.
By the time we tied up to a mooring buoy not far from the falls, the heat was beginning to be unbearable. We jumped into the water to cool down. It was a glorious temperature. I swam, and dried off, swam, and dried off all afternoon. We rowed to shore to take a closer look at the falls and stood below with cool water spritzing our faces. It was heavenly.
THE NEXT MORNING, we rowed ashore after breakfast to hike up to the trapper’s cabin and an upper waterfall. Although we are experienced hikers, it was a difficult trail. We passed a few ominous signs citing the number of people who had died in and around the falls. The hike was a two-hour vertical scramble, but we reached the top without any trouble. Not much remains of the cabin, aside from a steel bed frame. We puzzled for a while, imagining how the trapper got the bed all the way up the steep mountainside. We sat for a long time at the edge of the falls, taking in the wonder of the inlet below. We later surmised the falls beside the trapper’s cabin were the same ones that came out not far from our moorage. After lunch and a swim, I sat on the deck with my eyes closed, listening to the constant chatter of the falls in a dreamlike revery, stunned by the natural beauty surrounding our vessel. Like Mac, I too fell in love with Princess Louisa.
Most recreational boaters in their 70s begin weighing when they should swallow the anchor and let someone else navigate and jump in and out of their yacht’s cockpit. James Doleman, however, did it his way: at age 77 he bought the pleasure craft he’d dreamed about for decades. Her name is Vintage Port.
“I’d always wanted a traditional wooden boat, not a plastic one,” he said. “Something classic, historic, with a bit of nostalgia, like the boats designed in the era of Pacific Northwest’s naval architect Ed Monk, Sr.”
It took a while to find something that fit the dream. James and his wife, Dori Wood, who live in Calgary, were familiar with West Coast cruising having chartered sailboats and explored the Gulf Islands. When James retired, they began their search. “We looked at every kind of boat—converted fishboats, former forestry boats, just a whole variety of old wooden boats,” he said.
Dori, who hails from Edmonton, had gotten her feet wet with Girl Guide canoeing, powerboat cruising on Lake Okanagan and canoeing in northern Ontario. She supported James’ dream of owning a classic powerboat. “We rejected some boats very quickly,” she said. “Sometimes, we’d walk down a dock and I could smell a vessel’s musty odour from far away. That boat was instantly rejected.” One day they saw a good-looking lobster boat in Sidney, but when their surveyor gently probed the transom with a screwdriver, it sank
up to the hilt into the degraded wood. “More searching was required,” she said. James, born and raised in Montreal, has long had an affection for boats. Beginning at age seven, he spent part of his summer holidays with his grandparents in Lockeport, Nova Scotia. “We always stayed at the Hillcrest Hotel which they owned and operated,” he said. “It was located on a hill overlooking the scenic fishing harbour. It was a well-known vacation spot for Bostonians who wanted a summer holiday in a historic town and it had gained a certain kind of chic. Babe Ruth was a hotel guest there five times” adds James.
“The town was full of schooners and fishboats and packers. Sometimes, with my cousin David and brother Ron, we’d grab the lunch prepared by granny for our day at the beach. But instead, we’d head down the hill to the fish docks and climb the ratlines of a two-masted schooner to the crow’s nest. From there we could see if granny was leaving the hotel for her daily grocery shopping. ‘There’s granny,’ we’d yell, and duck to avoid getting caught. We never did. I grew up with the smells of the sea and boats.”
AFTER EARNING AN electrical engineering degree at the University of New Brunswick and while employed by the Dominion Bridge Co. in Lachine, Quebec, James purchased his first sailboat, a CS 22, called Pâté de foie gras. He sailed her on Lac St. Louis
near Montreal. Work took him to Ottawa and he sailed his next acquisition, a CS 30 named Blue Nun, out of Kingston on Lake Ontario and the Bay of Quinte for a decade. “She had a spinnaker featuring a large version of the Blue Nun wine label featuring a
nun with a basket of grapes,” he said, smiling. “It was the most recognized sail on Lake Ontario and I still have it.”
James also organized wilderness canoe trips with friends. “We’d fly a Beaver into northern Ontario’s Evelyn Lake near Temagami and paddle south. I
used my vintage 1911 Voyager Chestnut canoe.”
Along the way, James built a 50-year career in the engineering field, participating in the management of numerous large national and international projects, some costing several billion
dollars. These included building a dozen frigates for the Canadian Frigate Patrol Program, manufacturing the calandria and other equipment for many of Ontario’s nuclear reactors, and 20 years in the oil and gas industry in eastern Russia and Alberta. He prides himself on having brought in many contracts “on time and on budget.”
James settled in Calgary 30 years ago and met Dori. The couple remained boatless for two-and-half decades until the purchase of Vintage Port, although “I always kept that 1911 canoe,” James said.
JAMES WAS SURE they’d find the right yacht eventually but was keenly aware that any vintage wooden boat might need repairs and updating. “I went to see wooden boat specialists Abernethy and Gaudin (PY February 2024) at their Brentwood Bay-based boatyard and asked if they’d take on such tasks once I located a boat. They assured me they would.”
In 2018 they found a sedan cruiser designed by Ed Monk Sr., Bainbridge Island’s well-known naval architect. She’d been owned by Jim and Pauline Campbell for 47 years and bore the name Darito—combining the first two letters of their three sons’ names—Dan, Rick and Tom.
The yacht had quite a pedigree. She was built in 1954—she’s a septuagenarian this year—at the Matsumoto and Sons Shipyard in Dollarton, a neighbourhood in North Vancouver’s municipal district. Sam Matsumoto had been building boats in Prince Rupert until he was interned during the Second World War along with so many others of Japanese descent. After the war, he relaunched his boatyard in Dollarton, built masses of wooden fishboats as well as the occasional yacht and the first aluminum boats in BC; his company was eventually absorbed by Allied Shipbuilders.
According to Nauticapedia, her first owner, Sidney Partle, called his new yacht Glenby II, and the following owners bestowed such names as BryVonne, Mrs. Mary (1), Entre Nous, and En Famille and finally Darita—belying the old tale that changing a boat’s name leads to disaster. Ninth owners James and Dori, who bought the boat from Jim Campbell, followed suit and rechristened their newly acquired boat. Vintage Port is a name that jumped out at Dori while perusing a magazine ad promoting the famous Portuguese libation.
VINTAGE PORT’S HULL is built of carvel-planked red cedar on oak sawn frames. The yacht is registered with Transport Canada—the only boat of that name in the Commonwealth— and measures 8.29 metres (32 feet LOA) with a beam of 2.9 metres (9’8”) and a draft of 0.9 metres (3’). Her semi-displacement hull has a single hard chine, a slightly raked stern and a flared bow. When I first saw her on the hard, I was impressed by the hull’s smooth and shiny white finish—no vestiges of wooden planks or seams are visible. Glistening layers of varnish bring out the grain of her African mahogany topside and cockpit frames, as well as her interior woodwork and helm station. She has been kept inside a boathouse for most of her life, which
has undoubtedly extended her life expectancy. “When I purchased the yacht from Jim Campbell, he instructed me to maintain her in a boathouse,” said James. “So, I had no choice and bought one.”
For a yacht her size, Vintage Port is quite spacious. Jim Campbell had rebuilt the cockpit and added the hardtop cockpit enclosure keeping the skipper dry at the helm station. An additional zippered, vinyl enclosure expands opportunities for outdoor meals and provides a comfortable place to read or to quaff a gin and tonic.
Like any wooden yacht her age, Vintage Port has had numerous repairs and modifications over the years. Documentation of early changes has been lost, but the most extensive refit took place in 2005, when Jim Campbell contracted with Hugh Campbell (no relation) of Winard Wood Industries (now defunct) to perform the work. As is often the case when technicians root around the innards of a boat, more defects appeared, but the work continued. Several punky hull boards were replaced, dry rot-infested sidedecks and foredecks were repaired. The cabin sides and window surrounds were rebuilt with marine plywood veneered with elegant mahogany. The cabin top received a new marine plywood deckhead and was waterproofed with a fibreglass surface and high-quality marine paint. A bowsprit was added. Jim Campbell himself undertook the mammoth job of digging 7,000 corroded, galvanized screws out of the hull and replacing them with silicone bronze fasteners—adding about $7,000 to the refit costs. A new door from the cockpit to the equally new swim platform and ladder added to the ease of dinghy access.
CAMPBELL PUT THE boat up for sale in 2018 and when James first
James and Dori.
inspected the yacht, he noted water in the bilge—a serious drawback, he reasoned. He told Campbell he’d buy the boat, but only when the bilge was dry and stayed dry. As a condition of sale, James stipulated that Abernethy & Gaudin (A&G) make the repairs and in January 2019, James and Dori became the new owners. “It’s still dry today,” Dori said with satisfaction. Since then, James has added his own modifications. “I’ve worked on many military projects and insisted that reliability, safety and tip-top maintenance are key,” said James. “These principles also apply to yachts. We’ve looked for
quality marine service suppliers. Thus we asked A&G to redesign the head, install a new composting toilet as well as two new water tanks and two fuel tanks. They’ve also reconditioned the hull and deck finish, extended the skeg and installed a larger rudder. I really value their expertise. That’s why I’ve asked them to maintain Vintage Port each year.”
James and Dori also commissioned Gartside Marine Engines’ Ben Gartside to substitute a Beta 43 Marine diesel engine for Vintage Port’s old Mitsubishi. The Beta is manufactured in the UK and its design is based on
Kubota’s diesel engines. “Amazingly,” said James, “the Beta takes up only one-third the size of the old engine, giving us useful storage space in the engine compartment.”
The V-drive and prop were upgraded as well. To reduce engine noise, the cockpit floor was insulated and special rubber feet anchoring the engine keep vibration to a minimum. “The engine is so much quieter,” said Dori. “We’re most pleased with the workmanship and the results.”
Electrical wiring and electronics got a makeover too. Between 2019 and 2023, Brentwood Bay’s All Marine
Electric brought Vintage Port into full compliance with the latest 21st century technologies. New wiring and control panels, batteries, GPS, AIS, radar, fog horns and lights, depth sounder, bilge pumps and anchor windlass— everything a modern boat could desire for navigation and safety—were installed. A music system also adds to the owners’ enjoyment. “Again, these features make the boat safer and more enjoyable,” James said.
James is nothing but thorough, so every year he asks Meadows Marine Surveyors’ Lachlan MacKenzie to inspect Vintage Port’s hull and systems. The latest report notes the zincs were serviceable and the bronze seacocks operational. No defects were found in the hull, caulking or seams. When I spoke with MacKenzie by telephone, he said, “Vintage Port is one of the best maintained boats on the coast.”
THE YACHT’S HISTORY has been well documented. James learned that during Jim Campbell’s long tenure, he’d saved a voluminous quantity of logs,
repair reports and photographs. Jim’s son Tom, who grew up on the yacht, told James that boxes and binders filled with the boat’s archives had been stored and he’d like to pass them on. James lacked the time to inspect this treasure trove, but luckily found fellow Sidney-North Saanich Yacht Club members Alison and Adrian Kershaw, who had the patience and time to take on the task. The result? An annotated photo book offering an overview of the yacht’s evolution. James presented a copy of the book to Jim Campbell before he died as a commemoration of nearly half a century of boat ownership and as a legacy for his family.
IN ADDITION TO refurbishing and modernizing Vintage Port, James and Dori have been exploring the Gulf Islands and becoming familiar with regional waterways. “We’ve joined a number of SNSYC cruises too,” Dori said. “It’s been such fun and we’ve made friends with many fellow boaters.”
Yet change is in the wind. After much discussion, James and Dori have
moved on to the next chapter in their lives: this summer, Vintage Port will be put up for sale. “How did you reach this decision?” I asked. “Will selling her break your heart?”
“I keep a button in my pocket that says, ‘Believe in the Journey,’” James said. “It will be bittersweet to give her up, but we are ready for the next phase. We are proud of the boat and have made great friends, but it’s time. I’m 82 and Dori is 78. Running a boat takes a lot of energy. And if one of us falls ill, it’s a heavy responsibility for the other person to maintain a vintage boat. Basically, we’re planning ahead and selling the boat before we are forced to.”
THE COUPLE PLANS to use their “land yacht,” the Dodge Promaster camper van that Dori bought, to travel across Canada and the north. “We will visit family and friends, sightsee and make the most of our time,” James said. “Vintage Port has fulfilled a dream and has been a fitting chapter in our life’s journey.”
Because you Love Pacific Yachting, you may also enjoy these titles:
The 2nd edition of Best Anchorages of the Inside Passage covers cruising areas from Victoria to Bella Bella and has been expanded to include the Central Coast waters up to Fitz Hugh Sound, Rivers Inlet, Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy and Queens Sound.
In the 2024 issue, we’ve included some of BC’s lesser-known highways and byways, which we hope you’ll add to your summer itineraries. We’ve also included a few of our local favourites such as the North Shore’s Marine Drive and a scenic tour of the Southern Gulf Islands.
The Pacific Yachting Daily Cruising Log Book is 6” wide by 9” high and comes with a splash-proof cover. Wire-O binding allows the 200 pages to be folded behind the book for ease of writing. Provides ample space for your daily cruising notes.
BY ALEX FOX
SSailboat racing can be a complex undertaking, there is no doubt about that. The combined challenges of skill
building and boat preparation, all in pursuit of that perfect race—which remains just over the horizon, but for the occasional glimpse—isn’t that the essence of all sport and human endeavour. Racing is a journey of discovery and improvement through an endless loop of trial and error. Sailboat racing can also be just about getting out on the water, feeling the wind on your face and sharing that experience with
friends and kindred spirits. Those are the simple joys of our sport.
I’m motivated by the test of a good competition, sailing with and against people who are as excited about racing as I am. I’ve come to appreciate through the years though, that success in the sport can’t always be defined by race results. The goal is to compete well, and getting the occasional race win is always good fun, isn’t it. But
that being said, the weight of expectation—too much emphasis on the result—can sometimes sour the experience. For the regular readers of The Favoured Tack, you may appreciate that I write about lessons learned on the water, with the hope of engaging, entertaining and encouraging. This column is always part confessional and as you may glean, I’m feeling a little frustrated with some of my recent racing and looking for something of a reset. So here we go. Race, relax and reset…
I’m borrowing that one back from a Cow Bay Regatta shirt I came up with a few years ago. Those three words are a mantra for me; a paring down to the basics. Just race, do your best, sail like you can. Relax, because getting all worked up and fidgety worked so well last time, right? Ha! When things don’t go your way for whatever reason, reset and try to leave the frustration behind. Control what you can and refocus on what’s ahead. As an extension of this, I’ve picked a handful of other touchstones to remember when things start going sideways. These are the things that I love about our favourite pastime!
REMEMBER THE SIMPLE joys of sailboat racing, the moments that come back around and still excite, invigorate and bemuse. It really is a sport like no other and it’s good to remind oneself how unique and special it is. This first scenario repeats repeatedly, it never gets tired: Not a whisper of wind, flat, glassy calm water, sails limp, boat speed zero. We’ve all been there and it’s a true test of patience and optimism! All eyes scan for the slightest indication of a filling breeze. Do we see flags on the shore, clouds moving overhead, smoke from a chimney, the positions and headings of other boats? There’s nothing! Then it happens, the tickle of a telltale or the hair on the back of your neck. The jib backs slightly to one side. “Everyone to leeward!” The first zephyr touches
down, the sails fill, there’s a gurgle of water from the transom and the knot metre reads 1.0 knots. Life is good again—magical stuff!
The prestart is one of my favourite times. The anticipation of the racing ahead, watching the fleet assemble, sails hoisted. Some crews are getting in practice tacks and gybes, while others chill in the start area looking up
the course for pressure or checking out the line bias. It’s a different feeling from life ashore. The crew’s excited and everyone has their own routines, choosing the right attire of course is always entertaining. The conversation shifts to racing. “How’s the breeze looking? What’s the flag at the golf course doing? Is there more pressure to the right? Maybe. Looks like a bit
of a fill at the weather mark. Did anyone check the current? It’s flooding all day so we’ll probably bang the beach. All right let’s get the headsail up and do a little sailing.”
Trimming in, the helm loads up for the first time. “Everyone hike!” “Nice, more wind than I thought. How’s the jib lead looking?” People are smiling! “Ten minutes to start. It looks like some movement on the committee boat. Is the course posted yet?” “Looks like a W3. Yep, W3 confirmed.” Running the line, the butterflies are stirring and the line looks a little short, slightly pin favoured. It could be crowded down there. “Five minutes!” OK, most of the fleet is hanging down at the pin. It’s important we get onto port quickly and head for the beach. We don’t need the pin, let’s start halfway down and flip onto port right away. It’s really important we’re up to speed at the gun! One minute, the butterflies are in full flight! “Thirty seconds. Full speed. Hike. Set up for a great tack.” “Looking good, 10 seconds. Five. Four. Ready, about!”
The gun fires, and we’re clear to tack. “Tacking, release. Go, go go! Nice start gang.” We cross the fleet easily in a building breeze. This never gets old!
AS PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED, sailboat racing is about controlling what you can. Conditions will vary, sometimes breaking your way, other times seeming to conspire against you. Every competitor will find themselves behind in a race at one time. Maybe you’ll be over early, foul another boat or hit a mark. These are a few of the self-inflicted mistakes available to a race crew.
But even when mistakes are made, the race isn’t over. The comeback is a special challenge and something every crew should aspire to. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of working back from a bad position, and strangely, it seems to happen a lot. I suspect it’s a combination of adrenalin, resigna-
tion, sailing loose, sailing tight and expectations. I’ll explain. The extra flurry of excitement with an over early fault, gives a shot of adrenalin to the team. There’s also a certain resignation to say, OK we’re behind, let’s keep going the right way and see if we can get back in touch. The level of expectation has relaxed, so the team is sailing fast and loose. There are advantages to being behind. There’s much that can be learned about what’s happening up the course, by looking at the fleet ahead and noting what is working and what isn’t.
the gap is closing and that can lead to a certain tightening up. The result is not so much the trailing boat gaining, but the leaders giving distance back. Getting back in touch is a great tonic and everything is gravy at that point. So, the lesson is never give up, the comeback phenomenon is indeed a thing. I’ve experienced it from both sides and it is either good fun or total pain. But it’s always memorable!
THERE’S NOTHING QUITE LIKE THE FEELING OF WORKING BACK FROM A BAD POSITION, AND STRANGELY, IT SEEMS TO HAPPEN A LOT
Staying in the pressure and maintaining a clear lane becomes an important part of the comeback puzzle. So does not overstanding and continuing to sail as efficiently as possible. The flip side of this is that occasionally the fleet gets things wrong and weighing the opportunity of taking a flyer is always in play.
Splitting is a risk/reward gamble that can sometimes pay off. There are a few truths about sailboat racing as well. Boats in packs tend to slow each other down through covering and sailing extra distance to keep clear air. The comeback boat can really focus on sailing an efficient, economical course without worrying about boats around them. Once around the weather mark the advantage really shifts to the trailing boat and this is where the big gains can happen. The leaders are aware that
ONE OF THE simple joys of sailing is seeing the pleasure on the faces of new racers as they experience everything for the first time. Seeing their excitement and reactions bordering on pure horror during close maneuvering or the wonder of a spinnaker hoist and the fleet running downwind gunwale to gunwale. What was old hat becomes new again, seeing things through their eyes. The benefits of mentorship are immense and that’s the lifeblood of our sport. It’s rejuvenating to be a small part of that. The benefit for me is the opportunity to make sure what I’m passing on is correct and right. It’s a chance to review what I might take for granted and even rethink a few things. The biggest pay off is when new racers make that jump from casual participant to committed racing enthusiast. For some it happens slowly over a year or two, the cautious toe in the water approach. Then there’s the instant sailor: “Tell me about the racing schedule, where can I get some sailing gear, can I do a boat delivery?” You know these individuals are all in and that is so satisfying!
SO, THERE WE go, I’m feeling better already. Perspective is so important. There are so many things I love about sailboat racing, from the science and the physical and mental challenge, to the art, the intangibles, the exploration of concepts, the friendships forged and of course the many simple joys. How lucky we are. Take care all, see you on the water sometime soon!
BY TOM DAVIS
TThe regulations put in place to protect Southern Resident Killer Whales (SRKWs) can be confusing and boaters and anglers should understand how they work so they don’t end up on the wrong side of the law. As retired federal government biologist and angler, Brian Tutty, sarcastically observed a few years ago, “you need a
lawyer on board to understand them.”
There are currently 74 SRKWs. They spend a significant amount of time in the Canadian portion of their range which includes the west coast of Vancouver Island to its mid-point, plus Juan de Fuca Strait and the Strait of Georgia. They have been occasionally recorded in Queen Charlotte Sound. However, the northern boundary of their range overlaps with the territory of Northern Resident Killer Whales (NRKWs) that forage as far south as the Upper Strait of Georgia and along the west coast of Vancouver Island. NRKWs are more numerous than SRKWs and have doubled their population to over 300 animals since the early 1970s.
In the 1960s SRKWs suffered through
a period of live captures for aquarium display. Before this practice was banned their population was reduced below 70 animals. It is claimed that SRKWs were more abundant before Europeans arrived on the West Coast, but recent population models suggest that their numbers have not exceeded 100 animals during the last century. The highest recorded number of whales was 98 in the mid 1990s.
Their plight has been regularly reported in the media. Consequently few British Columbians are unaware of their current status, and it is equally true that every British Columbian wants these animals to recover. It wasn’t always that way. As recently as the 1960s they were considered unwanted competition for fishing interests. Fortunately, that mindset has been relegated to the trash bin.
The South Vancouver Island Anglers Coalition has raised and invested over $400,000 during the last eight years to rear 4.75 million additional chinook smolts principally for SRKW recovery. The smolts that survived to adulthood have been augmenting the SRKWs late summer and early fall food supply in Juan de Fuca Strait. It is the only volunteer managed orca food supply program in BC and has received broad support.
The federal government did increase hatchery chinook production from the Lower Fraser River for one four-year cycle. Then that program ended without explanation. In 2018 Washington State Governor Jay Inslee announced a multi-pronged $1.1 billion program to help SRKWs recovery. In 2021 he authorized additional funding to increase State and Tribal chinook hatchery production by four to five percent, to aid SRKW recovery. That commitment is still in place.
So, it’s unanimous. Everyone wants SRKWs to recover. However, it is the prescription for recovery that’s causing divergent opinions in BC.
At the outset I am going to provide
my take on these regulations. They do not work, assessing their effectiveness is an almost impossible task and there are simpler more effective ways to protect SRKWs. This view is supported by countless others who have backgrounds working, boating and angling throughout southern BC waters. Their on-water histories inevitably include numerous encounters with SRKWs, other killer whale sub-types and different whale species. Collectively, their knowledge represents an enormous base of information on whale type, encounter rates, encounter locations and what these whales were doing, that has been under-utilized by the government’s SRKW recovery team.
That practical knowledge includes being able to answer fundamental ques-
tions that would aid in developing sensible SRKW management measures. Were killer whales transiting from one feeding location to another? Were they actively feeding? If so, were they feeding on salmon or hunting other marine mammals like seals, sea lions, porpoises or smaller whales?
If they were feeding on salmon, they were clearly southern or northern resident killer whales. If they were hunting other mammals, they were certainly transient killer whales. These last two points are extremely important because visual observation of killer whale feeding habits is the easiest way for boaters and anglers to identify resident killer whales from transient killer whales.
In previous decades these sub-types could be identified in another way.
Transients usually travelled in small family groups hunting along the shoreline and near-shore reefs. This is where seals and sea lions, their principal food supply, hauled out. That transient killer whale population has expanded substantially, due to the increased number of seals and sea lions, compared to half a century ago. Now it is hard to distinguish between transient and resident pods, just based on the number of animals observed.
This leads to the central question. How does government effectively protect the SRKW segment of the much larger BC killer whale population? This sub-group is always on the move, cannot be easily distinguished from the other killer whale populations, except by close observation, and it shares the
These regulations have been enacted in response to two of the three concerns identified as factors limiting SRKW recovery. They are declining prey availability (specifically chinook salmon) and acoustic and physical disturbances. Contaminant control requires a comprehensive on-land strategy. In addition to these regulations for SRKW, all existing fishing closures and rockfish protected area regulations remain in place.
Fraser River Mouth:
No recreational or commercial salmon fishing in portions of sub-area 29-3 from August 1 to September 30, 2024.
Swiftsure Bank:
There is a 10-knot Vessel Speed Restriction Zone in effect from June 1 to November 30, 2024. No recreational or commercial salmon fishing in portions of sub-areas 20-1, 21-0, 121-1, and 121-2 from July 15 to October 30, 2024.
Gulf Islands:
No recreational or commercial salmon fishing in sub-areas 18-2, 18-4, 18-5, 18-9 from the first sighting of SRKWs until November 30, 2024. In the Interim Sanctuary Zone no fishing or boating June 1 to November 30, 2024. For safety reasons human powered craft, like kayaks and canoes, may use the 20-metre-wide transit corridor along the shoreline.There is a new speed reduction zone in portions of sub-area 18-11, Tumbo Channel, located between Tumbo and Saturna islands.
No recreational or commercial salmon fishing in portions of sub-areas 20-4 and 20-5 from August 1 to October 31, 2024.
same waters with them. To address the SRKW issue the Canadian government has chosen a recovery strategy that is complicated and constantly changing.
Here’s what I like about the SRKW regulations
• Vessel speed reduction regulations
• Vessel distance avoidance regulations
• Boater education on all whales
Here’s what I dislike about the SRKW regulations.
• Interim Sanctuary Zones (ISZs)
• Large, long-term area closures for salmon fishing
• Direct consultation with affected groups and coastal communities
• Consistency with American SRKW regulations
• Addressing pollution and other nonvessel related impacts
I will take an in depth look at SRKWs in a future Pacific Yachting article. Here is a summary of what that article will cover:
• Do interim sanctuary zones really work, or are they in place for PR purposes?
• Are the geographically large, longterm static salmon fishing closures and chinook-non-retention regulations over-kill or can they be replaced by alternative, effective and easy to understand regulatory options.
• Have the SRKW recovery team’s consultations with coastal communities been inadequate?
• Should the Canadian SRKW recovery strategy be compatible with the US plan?
• Has there been any meaningful senior Canadian government action addressing marine pollution and foreshore industrial expansion impacts on SRKWs since SRKW measures were introduced?
• What other factors are preventing SRKWs from recovering?
2024–2025 SRKW regulations
General whale regulations for BC’s south coast include the following mandatory and voluntary measures for 2024.
Mandatory Regulations
Boaters are required to keep 400 metres away from killer whales in southern BC waters. For the rest of the BC Coast the avoidance distance is 200 metres. It is also 200 metres from all whales, dolphins and porpoises when they are in a resting position or with a calf. For all other whales, dolphins and marine mammals the distance reduces to 100 metres if they are not resting or with a calf. Vessel operators are also prohibited from positioning their craft directly in the path of whales.
Voluntary Regulations
In the event killer whales appear within 1,000 metres of a vessel, anglers should stop fishing, boaters should slow to seven knots, echo sounders and fish finders should be turned off and engines should be put into neutral until the whales have passed.
Whether you agree with the strategy behind the Canadian SRKW regulations or not, it would be wise for all recreational boaters and anglers to become familiar with Canadian and US rules for SRKWs; particularly in the Southern Gulf Islands region due to the volume of cross-border marine traffic that occurs in that area. Both the Canadian and US whale regulations can be found at: bewhalewise.org.
BY PETER A. ROBSON
TThe Vicem 44 eschews the sharp, squared-off look of many modern yachts. Instead, this beauty features classic curves both inside and out. For those who love masses of traditional mahogany woodwork, you’ll find few yachts on the market that can match the Vicem.
The Vicem 44 reviewed was the first to arrive in our waters. Powered by twin 400-horsepower Volvo Penta IPS 600 pod drives, it performed flawlessly with top speeds of 22 knots during sea trials. Its Category A Ocean rating ((Beaufort Force 8 (over 40 knots) and significant wave heights above 13 feet/four metres)) means it is built to handle the toughest ocean conditions owners are likely to experience.
Established in 1991, Vicem soon became recognized for its flawless craftsmanship, quality and performance. Vicem’s stated key values are total customization, timeless design and excellence in craftsmanship—and it shows. Early models were constructed using stateof-the-art cold-molded wood and epoxy (see our
Expanses of mahogany woodwork highlight the saloon and accommodation areas, warming the interior.
review of the Vicem Windsor Craft 36 in the October 2017 issue). However, the company now produces fibreglass hulls, as is the case with the Vicem 44, while still maintaining the beautiful mahogany woodwork typical of a Vicem. Their Classic models from 44 feet (15 metres) to 82 feet (25 metres) have lines loosely based on Maine lobster boats, but the company also builds classic cruisers, sportfishers and megayachts up to 46 metres (150 feet). More than 150 Vicems have been launched to date.
ON DECK Boarding is via the broad swim platform and a single transom door. Before entering the cockpit, SV Business Group partner David Siradze demonstrated the electrically controlled transom garage built into the sweet-looking reverse transom. There is room here for all your water toys and up to a seven-foot dinghy. Another bonus is that when open, it provides a covered area with room for a table and chairs where two people can gaze aft in comfort.
The test boat was fitted with a complete canvas cockpit enclosure to protect the cockpit and provide for allseason cruising.
I really liked the two gloss teak rails that make a sweeping curve from the cockpit to the overhead. In the cockpit, an L-shaped settee is fronted by a finely crafted inlaid teak table with fiddles. The table can be moved inside for dining in the saloon. An outdoor grill, sink and fridge cabinet is tucked under the flybridge ladder. An aft steering station to starboard should make docking easy from the cockpit. The flybridge is essentially an open deck surrounding the sliding glass skylight and the radar arch. Cushions can be placed here for lounging, or with the addition of a table and chairs, it would serve as a secondary entertaining space. A new 44, currently on order, will be equipped with a full flybridge with helm station.
The gloss teak toerails, cabin trim and handrails really add to that classic look. Of course, one must consider the added maintenance. It is interesting to note that the exterior woodwork of the 36 previously reviewed reportedly lasted six years—in the open—before needing touching up.
The deckhouse can be fitted with cushions to serve as sunpads. The stainless cleats throughout are nicely oversized. The anchor locker is voluminous with plenty of room for storing fenders as well. The stainless Ultra anchor is connected to a tidy raised windlass with a full chain rode. I was impressed with the solid feel of the decks. There was absolutely no flexing when jumping up and down. The fibreglass work on deck (and the hull) was mirror-smooth, and the caulking on the windows and such was faultless.
Two sliding mahogany and glass doors open to the saloon. They are solid and well-crafted. Expanses of mahogany woodwork highlight the saloon and accommodation areas, warming the interior. Headroom is a generous 82 inches (2.08 metres). “Classic” is the word that
keeps coming to mind, with woodframed windows, wood cabinets with rounded edges and white planked overheads. The flooring is inlaid with white oak details and, like the decks, is rock solid. To port is an L-shaped seating area with two ottomans which can be used as extra dining table seating or as footrests. To starboard is a linear storage cabinet with a pop-up TV and wine cooler.
Forward to port is the mahogany helm console with a comfy double fixed helm seat. The helm is another example of the excellent and tasteful craftsmanship found throughout. The clean layout includes twin 12-inch Garmin touchscreens, the engine controls, the IPS joystick, bow thruster, Lenco trim tabs and the usual gauges and rocker switches. Overhead, a large skylight helps bring in extra light. A hinged helm door provides good access to the side decks and side gate for easy single-handed docking.
The galley and two staterooms with ensuites are down three steps from the saloon. Here, the satin-finished mahogany woodwork is even more impressive than in the saloon. I was awed by the craftsmanship required
to produce curved corners and solid wood doors with arched tops. These days, details like this are more likely to be seen in a superyacht than a yacht of this size. Headroom here is also generous at 77 inches (1.96 metres).
The U-shaped galley is immediately to port. It is well-equipped with two drawer-type fridges/freezers, convection microwave, two-burner electric cooktop, dishwasher and adjacent washing machine. Plenty of storage is available above and below the solid surface countertops and should please the chef and anyone provisioning. Lifting the companionway stairs reveals an icemaker and additional storage.
Two single berths highlight the guest cabin. These can be joined to create a double berth. Its ensuite is a wet head with a rainfall showerhead, curtain, vessel sink, and electric head.
The bow master is plush with an actual workable hanging locker (which is rare), makeup table with mirror and good storage, including under the berth. I’d like to have seen some fiddles on the bedside shelves, but otherwise, it is a luxurious stateroom. A large TV faces the bed. The ensuite is slightly larger than the guest ensuite with a
larger shower and curtain, rainfall showerhead, raised vessel sink, teak grating and blue mosaic tiles on two of the walls.
ENGINE AND SYSTEMS In the engine room, access was very good all around the twin Volvos, which is a real bonus for maintenance. The sight tubes on the fuel tanks are always a good idea.
An Onan 11.5 kW generator provides auxiliary power. Heat is delivered by a forced air diesel heater. The test boat was also equipped with a desalinator for endless freshwater. The wiring is well-labelled for easy troubleshooting. The electrical system is based on 24 volts DC and 115/230 volts AC with a 60 Hz (North American) frequency. While built in Turkey, all machinery and appliances on the test boat utilize equipment available in North America, which makes it easy to access parts for repair and replacement.
UNDERWAY We eased out of the docks at SV Business Group’s boatyard and marina and out into Howe Sound. The morning downpour had ended and the sun was breaking out. It was a great day to be on the water
aboard this pod-driven yacht.
As we accelerated onto the plane, I was surprised that there was no clear transition from displacement to planing. We just kept going faster with none of that common plowing when first climbing onto the plane. Bow rise was minimal with half tabs. Visibility over the bow and all around was very good. It seemed there was no real sweet spot. It was all good at all speeds and the ride was as solid as the boat with no rattling at all.
We leaned nicely into high-speed turns without skidding, and the steering was pleasantly tight. The props didn’t slip when we went from stopped to full throttle. Sound in the interior was 69 dB at 14 knots, which is quite reasonable.
At a displacement speed of 8.25 knots (1,760 rpm), we were burning a combined 6.4 gallons per hour (24.2 lph) which translates to 1.3 miles per gallon (3.8 L). At 10.5 knots (2,425
2,000 L / 528 USG
Water 760 L / 200 USG
Holding 200 L / 53 USG
Power 2 Volvo Penta
IPS 600, 400 hp diesels
rpm), our fuel burn increased to 14 gph (53 lph). We came onto the plane between 13 and 14 knots in just over six seconds, which is impressive for such a solid yacht. On plane at 15.7 knots (3,110 rpm), we were burning 27 gph (102 lph). At a fast cruise of 17.9 knots (3,335 rpm), our fuel consumption increased to 31 gph (117 lph), and at wide-open throttle (3,730 rpm), top speed was 22 knots. It is interesting to note that at all speeds above 15 knots, the average miles per gallon was steady at 0.6, even at wideopen throttle. This is a surprisingly consistent fuel curve. Regardless of speed, the ride was comfortable and easy. It was a shame we had to return to harbour.
CONCLUDING REMARKS Vicem certainly lived up to its reputation for timeless design, excellence in craftsmanship, and the ability to customize any yacht to suit its owner, as was the case with the Vicem 44. SV Business Group offers full warranty service for their yachts (which includes several other brands) at their full-service West Vancouver boatyard. At US$1.3 million as equipped, the Vicem 44 could very well be the most affordable and luxurious classic vessel in this size category. I could find no compromises in fit and finish, equipment or performance. And with a Category A Ocean rating, owners can feel confident that this is truly a go-anywhere vessel.
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BY KARL STEELE
WWhen choosing from a litter of kittens, how does one approach the decision, especially when that kitten needs to be boat-friendly?
Do you pick the cutest? The fuzziest? Or when they’re set loose on the floor, and some start exploring the carpeted staircase, failing to get past step three, do you pick the one who goes all the way up the stairs and disappears around the corner? Yep, go with that one. She was the perfect little troublemaker. Not in the sense of scratching furniture or missing the litter box, but we knew she would fit in on our boating adventures.
Named Lucy, after the Charlie Brown character who keeps yanking the football away just as Charlie is about to kick it, she was a cat born with no fear. She would overturn the remote-controlled truck we ‘attacked’ her with, enjoyed being vacuumed and set the bar for trying to get her out of her element.
Take her sailing, they said. Uh-huh. Starting the diesel with the highpitched pre-warming of the plugs presented no problem for Lucy. She didn’t flinch. Curled up on the teak and holly below, she slid back and forth as we tacked about. What fun, we giggled.
She seemed to be enjoying herself, but then looking again, there was no Lucy. An inspection below found her cuddled into the open linen ‘closet’ snug as a bug. I swear she was sneering at us.
The problem was that when we started the engine, Lucy would come out from below, instantly, but never in a hurry, and sit atop the sliding hatch-cover over the companionway. From there, she could look out over her domain.
There was no end to the embarrassing moments caused by her adventure seeking ways.
Once, tied up in a canal with another sailboat, who’s owners we knew not, we were having a lovely dinner down below. Suddenly, we heard a scream from the other boat. Uh oh, Lucy! She had wandered over to say hello whilst they were having dinner down below! We scrambled over and scooped her up, apologizing profusely, of course.
Another time, after tying up for the evening in a quaint little seaside town, we decided to be off for dinner, leaving the companionway hatch boards out and Lucy alone down below. We did drape a super heavy, lead weighted mosquito net over the companionway…
So, we expected her to be there when we returned. Silly us. She was nowhere to be found. Now the search was on, and of course the search took us land-ward. We couldn’t find her anywhere until we turned our eyes back toward the docks. We eventually found her sitting on the bow of a neighbour’s dinghy, like some figurine, prim and proper. She had gone aboard their boat, then scampered over to the dinghy. When the wind shifted, she was left stranded 10 feet from the dock, completely unfazed.
Finding a pet that mirrors your sense of adventure is a rare thing, and apparently, we made the right choice!
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