Pacific Yachting - November 2023

Photo:

PASSAGES

THE AFTERGUARD

Offseason Options

Some friends and I are currently in the process of organizing an overseas charter for a milestone birthday. The idea is to get a small group of friends together, charter a boat for a week somewhere warm and have an amazing time on the water. It sounds perfect. The only question is: Where should we go?

I’m lucky to work in the boating industry. It means that I have a few contacts who know a thing or two about chartering a boat overseas. Within this very magazine we’ve covered many, if not most, of the popular cruising destinations around the world—from the Sea of Cortez (January 2022) to the Greek Saronic Islands (November 2021). They all sound like bucket list locations that I would love to visit.

So, I am familiar with the main charter destinations around the world and we’ve narrowed our choice down to somewhere in the Caribbean. Hoping to gain some more intel, I reached out to long-time Pacific Yachting contributor Zuzana Prochazka, who knows every rock and reef from the Mediterranean to the South Pacific and here is her recommendation for a Caribbean charter:

“If you’ve never been, I’d say start with the British Virgin Islands (BVIs) because there are many pluses:

1. Lots of boats and companies to choose from so the availability and prices are better.

2. Islands are line of sight so you always have the next destination close by which is good for guests.

3. There is good snorkeling and diving spots within an easy sail.

4. Lots of bars, restaurants and shopping so people have something to do.

5. If the weather gets rough, there are lots of places to hide.

6. It’s easy to get to if you fly to St. Thomas and take the ferry to Road Town.

7. Lots of hotels to stay before and after.

8. Go with a brand name like Moorings, Sunsail, Dream Yacht or Navigare. There are others, but bargain boats may be rough.

9. Anegada is a nice sail from Virgin Gorda and easy to get to now that they’ve marked the channel.

10. Go to the Baths early in the morning or you’ll not get a mooring.

11. The best times are early December (nobody around comparatively speaking), July (it’s risky but still good) and May-June. Christmas to Easter is packed.

12. Get the BoatyBall app. Almost all the anchorages have been taken up by reserve-only moorings. Monohulls are still available and cheaper but I’d opt for a catamaran and see if you can get another couple to join you. Most boats down there are cats.”

It helps to have the local knowledge of someone who’s experienced a place firsthand. Zuzana’s second choice for a Caribbean charter is the Grenadines, but I think our decision is easy: The BVIs. Now the question becomes: When can we go?

–Sam Burkhart

EDITOR Sam Burkhart editor@pacificyachting.com

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WE WELCOME YOUR LETTERS

LUND HOTEL

After reading Gordon Currie’s article in your July 2023 issue regarding the Lund Hotel and Pub we felt compelled to reply. We tied up at the Lund Breakwater, planning to stay two days and looking forward to a good meal at the Lund Pub. We discovered the pub is only open three or four single shifts per week and not on the days we were going to be there. We walked around the town, bought two of Nancy’s cinnamon buns, cooked on board and left the following morning, rather concerned at the decline we see happening at the Lund Hotel.

The hotel itself, in the article, was only mentioned in passing. We learned from a knowledgeable local businessperson that the hotel may never re-open. It was closed in 2020, the heat was turned off

and all the renovations that had been done were for naught. Mold has started to take over the building and furnishings. The present owners have allowed this historic building to be ruined. Quite possibly, us taxpayers will be on the hook to repair it all. Very sad to see.

—Keith and Kerry Finholm Only You

WHERE THERE’S SMOKE THERE’S FIRE

[I am] a semi-retired journalist (I left the Parliamentary Press Gallery in Ottawa last year to move to Nanaimo) who specializes in defence and aviation. I am currently a boatless sailor. That said, after dealing with the aftermath of a lead-acid battery fire some years ago on my C&C 27, which I left behind

The current Lund Hotel was built in 1918 after the original hotel burned down.

in Ottawa, I have done considerable research on extinguishers which leave no residue, i.e. the Halon option. That, however, is obviously not without issues, namely its displacement of oxygen and its cost. A couple of years ago, I came across a product which is mainly used in the automotive sector but offers a solution in the marine environment. These are Element extinguishers which were developed in Italy and which leave absolutely no residue while not displacing oxygen. Feel free to check out YouTube demonstrations. They are effectively the same size as a roadside flare and are activated much the same way, i.e. striker ignition. They have not yet been tested by Underwriters Laboratories (rebadged as UL Solutions) and it seems Transport Canada as well as the Canadian and US coast guards won’t authorize them until UL tests and approves them. They do seem expensive at first blush but the $100 version suppresses flames for 50 seconds and are a single-use device. However, add in the fact that most of the conventional extinguishers are out of product in less than half the time and leave a considerable mess to clean up while also potentially damaging electrical or electronic components and I think there’s a strong case for them.

—Ken Pole, Nanaimo

WE ENCOURAGE CURRENTS SUBMISSIONS

Geo Guesser

While our first Geo Guesser may have been too easy, last month’s may have been too hard. At the time of publication, the location had not been guessed correctly. We’ll include a hint here and give people another month to guess.

Hint: The October location is within Desolation Sound Marine Park. We’ve chosen a more well-known spot for this month’s photo. Good luck!

Deadline: October 27. Send your guesses along with your name and address to editor@pacificyachting.com for a chance to win a PY hat!

THE R-27

THE CUTWATER FLEET INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING MODELS: C-248C, C-288C, C30S, C-30CB, C-32 & C-32CB

THE RANGER TUGS FLEET INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING MODELS: R-23, R-25, R-27, R-29 S, R-29 CB, R-31S, R-31 CB, R-43S & R-43CB

New ‘Kid’ on the Block: Montrose Local

If you’re heading to the Gulf Islands this fall, be sure to check out this new Mayne Island eatery which opened this year. Located in Fernhill Centre in what used to the home of Wild Fennel Restaurant, which sadly closed over 10 years ago, Stephanie McBurney and Jeff McPherson are cooking up a storm and ensuring the visitors have as much fun at the Montrose

as they and their family are having. This couple really know their island and what makes for a good community—in addition to what the fixings of a great meal and fun evening need to be. Along with their two chefs, Mike Smith and Jan Gumbmann, and their

family of three, Rowyn and Ryder Magee, both 15, and six-year-old daughter, Abby McPherson, they really whip up some creative cuisine and lively evenings.

The couple have worked toward this dream for five years and both have ex-

perience in the culinary field as well as a long history with the island and its community. They were still awaiting their liquor license when we visited in early August, but this hasn’t been a problem for them. “The delay has allowed us to get a clear idea of who we want to be,” McBurney says, and her partner agrees: “We don’t want to be a pub. We want to focus more on having a community space for visitors and for locals, a place to come in for a coffee and a game of foosball, meet with friends, work on the puzzle or come for a fun evening.”

McPherson tells me he loves creating different ethnic foods with his two other chefs, ensuring that the dishes are constantly changing. They all have fun in the kitchen, experimenting and challenging one another. “We feature freshness and quality—everything comes in

fresh except for the prawns and everything is made from scratch. And the culinary theme nights, where our chefs collaborate, is very popular. We had a Szechuan meal the other night and it was booked out. We had to hold it a second night as well. It was Indian food in September.” Who knows what winter will bring?

The venue itself is as colourful and as zesty as the dishes: local art festoons the walls, puzzles and games invite visitors to take their time and relax. There’s no doubt that this is always going to be a place for families and locals to hang out, and this couple thinks it’s a good thing. There’s even a community table. Have a look at their active Facebook page, then jump on the boat and cruise over. This is a true ‘Gulf Island style’ experience you’ll never get in the city.

—Cherie Thiessen

Vancouver Boat Show Dates Announced

The Vancouver International Boat Show will run from January 31 to February 4 at BC Place and on the water at Granville Island. Go to vancouverboatshow.ca for more information.

BC company to build zeroemission expedition yachts

Arecently launched venture is setting out to help revitalize the BC yacht building sector—by building zero-emission luxury yachts. The concept is to eliminate hydrocarbon use from propulsion, cooking, heating, and other systems. The hulls will be built from recyclable aluminum and use replaceable marine modular batteries for electric power. Charging will be through arrays of solar panels and regenerative charging from the propellor while under sail.

Based in Port Alberni, the company is owned by Chris Baker, an accomplished sailor with local government management and leadership experience. Baker has partnered with renowned Vancouverbased yacht designer Ron Holland and ground-breaking Naval Architect Laura Fuge.

Their first offering is a “go anywhere” 64-foot expedition sailboat that can be configured for cruising or as a dedicated research vessel. It is being designed to be independent of marinas for extended periods of time and to make long ocean passages fast and comfort-

THE EVOLUTION PREMIUM PERFORMANCE

able. This is to be a truly local project as there are many skilled welders, carpenters and marine tech companies on the BC coast and Port Alberni has the workforce, the room for an expanding shipyard and a desire to develop more of a blue economy.

The prototype is still in the development stage with the structural design in place while the electrical design is in progress with help from the University of BC. The venture has benefitted from a network of business supports, including an entrepreneurship program at UBC—where all three principals have ties—and an ocean-based business accelerator program in Victoria called Coast. Alberni Yachts is seeking government support for the prototype and is looking forward to announcing project partners.

Once the prototype design and engineering is complete, and a client, investor or government funding is in place, Alberni Yachts expects the first vessel could be built in 18 months.

The team at Alberni Yachts aims to highlight the maturity of BC’s marine sector for the world and help shape the future of Canada’s ocean brand.

—Peter A. Robson

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Autumn Books

Pacific Yachting Take Your Best Shot Photo Contest

Pacific Yachting’s annual photo contest is back! Send us your best boating photos from 2023 for a chance to be featured in Pacific Yachting. Prizes include a Yeti GoBox, a Salus Abacus PFD and a Mustang MIT 100. For contest rules and to enter, visit pacificyachting.com/photo-contest.

Deadline: December 15

Pacific Voyages—The Story of Sail in the Great Ocean

By Gordon Miller. Douglas and McIntyre, 2023. $59.95

Gordon Miller, historian, artist, illustrator and designer has published a new book on the countless seafarers who sailed the Pacific. Like his earlier book, Voyages to the New World and Beyond, Miller brings the same historic accuracy and meticulous research to this volume and has again displayed his artistry in the accompanying watercolours, oil paintings and drawings. I was smitten both by his elegant prose and by his depictions of vessels of all sizes in all kinds of conditions that illuminate the descriptions of the royalty and aristocrats who sent out their sailing ships to find such luxury items as gold, silver, silks, spices, furs and porcelains. And, of course, to seize as much land—and subjugate as many people—as they could for their respec-

tive crowns and trading companies.

No single book can cover the entire history of all the explorations in the Pacific, but reading Miller’s book and studying the text, paintings and ship plans can provide an excellent overview of the main players ranging from canoe paddlers to clipper sailors.

Miller begins his book with drawings of early vessels like kayaks, baidarkas, different canoe styles, Chinese and Japanese junks, reed boats and catamarans/outriggers. He describes how early seafarers crossed oceans using their knowledge of stars, wind and currents to navigate vast distances—colonizing the spread-out south Pacific Islands and eventually New Zealand and Australia. Maps frequently accompany the text and through this combination we learn about Marco Polo’s land travels describing the riches of China, which may have inspired westerners to explore further by sea. Enter Henry the Navigator and his dapper Portuguese explorers, with the Dutch and Eng -

lish all vying to control the trade in spices—nutmeg and cloves were literally worth their weight in gold—and Spanish seafarers finding real gold and silver in South America. The Russians tried to find the Northwest Passage from the west and fought the Tlingit for control of Alaskan territories. Britain committed piracy against Spain and also established its first colony in Australia by exporting its brigands, and as usual, paying no attention to the people already there.

Miller’s research on ocean mammal hunting describes the slaughter of whales for their valuable oil, as well as their relentless pursuit of Steller’s seacows (who became extinct), sea otters and fur seals for their prized furs, and trading with Indigenous people who hunted these fur-bearing animals. He does not neglect scientific seafaring, outlining the land excursions and research conducted by Darwin aboard the Beagle.

He also describes and depicts many generic ship models like the 17th century Manila Galleon; junks and dhows; and Dutch and Russian ships; Pacific Voyages is a valuable and beautiful book which I plan to consult and enjoy often.

—Marianne Scott

Ready or Not: Two Landlubbers from Patagonia Take to the Sea

By Richard R. Moreno. Self-pub-

lished, 2022

Author Richard Moreno and his pal Rocky Wesley were friends since childhood in Argentina. They reconnected again in their mid-20s in Canada where they hatched a plan. They would travel to Argentina, first crossing the Pacific Ocean, making pit stops in California, Hawaii, Fiji and Australia. The two friends bought a boat Moreno’s dad had recommended—the Nootka 28 plywood cutter. It was in their budget, but in need of some serious attention.

They set off from Victoria on this epic voyage to much fanfare on July 20, 1980. Did I mention that neither of them could sail?

They also didn’t know whether they would enjoy sailing or if they had the sea legs to succeed. During the voyage they read classic sailing books like Sea Sense, Heavy Weather Sailing, and other how-to-sail books.

A previous owner called the Nootka, “a damn fine boat,” and this wooden ship lived up to her reputation. While sailing, conditions never remain the same for long. Some waves hit their little boat with such force they thought it would split the hull wide open. On some days, the boat would sail herself, which she did very well.

Since the best action stories need a crisis and a resolution, I kept thinking these two sailors seemed to be one wave away from a shipwreck. Since there were only the two of them to take turns on deck to keep watch in three-hour increments, Moreno knew it would drain them both physically and emotionally. Sure enough, they

wanted to give up after 12 days at sea. But they didn’t.

They experienced a multitude of problems and near calamities too numerous to mention but lived to write about them. Their greatest challenges were major storms off the coast of Oregon and another one near Australia with winds above 60 knots.

After being lost and directionless for two days, Moreno said, “One of the best times of the day while sailing the open ocean was during the early morning watch. Seeing the sun rise over the horizon was always a comforting moment, for it would always remove the tension of sailing blind.”

The author mused, “I often wondered, if we had known about a sailor’s life would we have ventured this far. I’m glad and thankful that we didn’t know and we left on this voyage. How we did it still boggles our minds especially when we think how little experience we had.”

This book will appeal to those neophyte sailors who have dreams of sailing but have never sailed before. Seasoned mariners will just shake their heads in wonder that these two young men survived.

American author Ernest Hemingway, who knew his way around the sea, wrote you must live life and deal with its problems to the best of your ability. Man is not made for defeat. Neither it seems were these two landlubbers from Patagonia.

—R.M. Davies

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GALLEY

BY ROXANNE DUNN

Wonders of Winter Wetlands

Return of the trumpeters

Tour reservoirs and nourish our crops, but it awakens the wetlands—prepares them to welcome trumpeter swans.

This year, instead of whining about the wet, blustery weather, I’m embracing it. I’m glad the heavens have opened up. Not only does the rain fill

Although they will forage in fields, eating terrestrial plants, trumpeters prefer roots, shoots, and leaves of aquatic plants. They feed by upending and probing the bottom with their bills. So, quiet, shallow water suits them best, and as ponds, lakes, and streams begin to freeze over in the north, they migrate south.

Come spring, it’s important to get back to their breeding grounds in Alaska, Yukon, and northern British Columbia as early as possible. Cygnets are not capable of flight until they are three or four months old, and they need time to develop their flight muscles for the next migration.

Until recently, I had no idea that some of these majestic birds winter on the Gulf and San Juan islands. I may find them on ponds just minutes away from my house. If you live

COLUMN GALLEY

anywhere near the British Columbia or Washington coast, for the next few months they may be your neighbours, too. Now that I know, I plan to make up for lost time. My binoculars are standing by.

Trumpeters are the largest North American waterfowl and one of the heaviest of all our birds who fly. The adult male’s wingspan is a little over two metres and they may weigh more

than 11 kilograms. In the air, they fly in a low V formation and stretch out to approximately 1.8 metres.

Adult plumage is entirely white, but so is the plumage of the mute and tundra swans, and mute swans are almost as large. So, how will I know which ones I’m looking at?

Trumpeters have strong black bills and when swimming, hold their necks up straight. Tundra swans also have

Focaccia Recipe

INGREDIENTS

•2 2/3 cups flour

•1 teaspoon yeast

•1 teaspoon sugar

•1 1/2 cups water at room temperature (warm but not hot)

•2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed

•1 teaspoon salt

•1 1/2 cups finely grated pecorino, parmesan, or similar tangy, salty cheese

Optional

•Balsamic vinegar and a good fruity olive oil for dipping

METHOD

1. In a mixing bowl, dissolve yeast in one cup water and one teaspoon sugar. Wait five to 10 minutes. It should foam and look creamy.

2. Add one cup of the flour. Mix, cover, and let stand 30 minutes.

3. Add remaining flour and water and two tablespoons olive oil. Stir with a wooden spoon until no dry flour remains. It will look lumpy and wet.

4. Cover and let rest 10 minutes. Then sprinkle salt over dough and mix thoroughly and cover and rest 20 minutes.

5. Wet hands and starting on one edge, gently lift and fold dough into the middle. Turn the bowl and repeat, until it is all folded over (about six folds.) Cover and rest 20 minutes.

6. Repeat lifting and folding over. Then cover and rest 10 minutes.

7. Coat a baking sheet generously with olive oil and turn the dough out onto it. Spread the dough into an oval about half the size of the baking sheet.

8. Coat the top of the dough liberally with oil and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Then refrigerate approximately 20 hours.

9. 1.5 to two hours before baking, remove from refrigerator and gently press the dough toward the edges of the baking pan. Sprinkle with one cup of the cheese. Press it into the dough slightly.

10. When it doubles in bulk, make characteristic focaccia dimples with a fingertip.

11. Bake in 230° C degree (450◦ F) oven 18 to 25 minutes, rotating pan halfway, just until top is lightly browned and dough is cooked through. Do not overbake!

12. Remove from oven; immediately sprinkle with remaining cheese.

black beaks and hold their necks up straight, but are about half the size and their necks are proportionally shorter. Mute swans’ bills are orange and they generally hold their neck curved.

Jumbo jets of the local bird kingdom, trumpeters require a long runway and a lot of flapping to get airborne. As their metre-long wings unfurl and begin to push the air down, they run across the surface, their large webbed feet slapping down on the water. Some have described the sound as similar to galloping horses. Trumpeting as they go, they run and flap until they reach the speed of 21 kilometres per hour. Only then can they lift off.

I can’t wait to watch this. I’m waiting for a relatively calm day to put on my rain gear and wellies and see if I can find them.

When I get home again, I’ll want to make a big pot of soup. And if I plan ahead, I’ll have a crisp, hot, cheesetopped focaccia to go with it.

I’ll mix the dough the night before and put it in the refrigerator. A couple of hours before I want to bake it, I’ll shape it into a loaf. While I chop and cook onions and vegetables, it will double in bulk, and by the time the soup is done, it will be ready to tuck into the oven.

I use the following super simple recipe. If you’re not familiar with yeast doughs, you don’t have to be afraid of it. There’s no kneading involved, the dough is forgiving, and the result is fantastic. Crisp and warm from the oven, it will fill your mouth with moist, tender goodness and delectable flavour. Enjoy!

BY DEANE HISLOP

Westcott Bay, San Juan Island

The perfect autumn gunkhole

Aover the sticky sand and shell bottom of Westcott Bay, located on the west side of San Juan Island. We took shelter for the next couple of days from the approaching weather front and its predicted 25-knot southerlies, in the lee of Bell Point.

rents must be considered most of the time.

Arriving at low slack, under a clear cobalt sky and zero wind it was a glorious fall afternoon. We set Easy Goin’s hook with 16 feet of water beneath the hull

The approach to Westcott Bay is via Mosquito Pass, which connects Roche Harbor and Haro Strait. It’s narrow and meandering enough to make things interesting and tidal cur-

The narrow navigation channel winds through what appears to be a wide, safe passage between Henry and San Juan islands. Passage is not difficult if you’re vigilant—follow the navigational aids marking the curving channel. There is a five-knot wake speed limit when transiting the pass. It’s basic straightforward navigation, but you would be surprised how many

boats cut the corner and tap the sand bottom. Mid-way through the pass a channel leads east into Westcott Bay.

The bay is outlined with homes, summer cottages, forest lands and the family operated Westcott Bay Shellfish Company. If you enjoy fresh oysters and clams as we do, the shellfish farm offers a fine selection of tasty oysters, clams and mussels. Check westcottbayshellfish.com for hours.

In the late ‘70s, the bay’s tidelands were home to Westcott Bay Seafarms, a thriving shellfish company. Over the years the farm went into steady decline and was put up for sale as a home site Henry Island residents Erik and Andrea Anderson bought the farm in 2013 with the vision of restoring it to its former glory. Over the next three years they worked to replant the depleted shellfish crops, rebuild and replace farm infrastructure and make improvements to the property.

ONCE SETTLED AND after enjoying some lunch we launched the tender, set two crab traps and ventured off to explore our cosy little gunkhole and the surrounding area. In the southern corner of the bay is a rock and sand beach to land the dinghy and up the

low bank is a picnic table and the 1.6-kilometre Bell Point Loop Trail. The trail will not only lead you out to the point, providing a wonderful view of the anchorage, but also lead us to Garrison Bay English Camp and the trail up Young Hill.

English Camp was the site of the British encampment during the San Juan Pig War. Today, English Camp along with American Camp at the other end of the island, is part of the San Juan Island History Park.

From English Camp we made our way along a 1.3-kilometre trail to the top of 650-foot Young Hill for an expansive view of Westcott Bay, Garrison Bay, Mosquito Pass, Haro Strait, Vancouver Island, and across the Juan de Fuca Strait to the Olympic Mountains. During our hike we were lucky enough to see a number of black-tail deer and bald eagles.

On the way back to Easy Goin’ we checked the crab traps and were rewarded with one legal size Dungeness. It made two large crab cocktails for dinner.

THAT EVENING THE wind began to blow as predicted but there was hardly a ripple in our hide-out, while it

Westcott Bay Shellfish Company.

reached 20 knots in Haro Strait. The wind blew most of the night and by morning it was a light breeze but was predicted to pick-up as we progressed through the day.

Mid-day we were joined in our hidey-hole by two other boats. One set his hook to the north and the other to the east. That afternoon when the second boat went to depart, he discovered a cable, attached to the bottom, was hanging over the flukes of the anchor and he could rise the anchor just above the surface. After a 30-minute wrestling match with the tangled mess, the anchor was free and the cable was returned to the bottom. I marked the location of the cable on the chart plotter for future reference.

The following morning the weather had passed and we awoke to a windless morning. Before moving on to our next destination we enjoyed the beauty of Westcott Bay and its mirror like surface while sipping on our morning cups of coffee.

W E S TCOTT BAY Bell Pt.

Westcott Bay Shellfish Company

Garrison Bay

English Camp

Mosquito Pass White Pt.

Roche Harbor

SAN JUAN ISLAND

Henry Is.

English Camp, Garrison Bay.

San

Nanoose Bay

A destination with a rich history and a promising future

Story & Photos By

Diane Selkirk

Anchored in the small cove between West and South Ballenas islands.

NNanoose Bay is one of those places I’ve always bypassed. Getting to the little nub of a peninsula located just north of Nanaimo, on Vancouver Island, meant transiting the controversial Canadian Forces’ torpedo-testing range of Whiskey Golf and winding through the 19 islands that make up the Ballenas-Winchelsea Archipelago. So I always sailed past, thinking it seemed like a good someday destination. But then, in 2020, the BC Parks Foundation (the same group that in 2019 crowd-funded over $3 million to protect 800 hectares of Princess Louisa Inlet) worked their magic again and bought West Ballenas Island. And in June of this year, I learned that veteran restaurant partners Eli Brennan, Alan Tse, and Chef Todd Bright had taken over the restaurant at Fairwinds Marina, turning it into the Nanoose Bay Café. At the same time, I also discovered that the marina itself was going through a major upgrade. So, someday turned into now.

NANOOSE BAY IS the traditional home of the Snaw-nawas People, often called the Nanoose First Nation. Drawn by the region’s abundance, which includes herring roe, clams and salmon as well as game, plants and berries such as salal, the Hul’q’umi’num’ speaking people lived on the peninsula in villages not far from Notch Hill from time immemorial. In the 1890s, as more settlers started farming and logging on the peninsula, the federal government forced the Snawnaw-as off their traditional lands and onto their reserve on the bay’s southern shore. In 1905, the Canadian Pacific Railway line was extended through Nanoose (cutting through

the reserve land and reducing its size). With the rail line, even more settlers began to arrive, along with several businesses including a brick-making plant at Brickyard Bay and the Great Powder Company, which produced explosives for mining and land clearance. The next arrival was Straits Lumber Mill which supplied lumber to ships from around the world.

THESE DAYS, THE peninsula is known more for the lush, manicured fairways of Fairwinds Golf Course and the 350-berth marina, than heavy industry. In recent years, Nanoose Bay gained a wealth of parks and hiking trails, and a handful of small agritourism businesses including Springford Farm, where you can pick up island grown foods and the Rusted Rake, a brewery where they grow their own barley for the beer they serve. Add in a well-managed marina, some interesting offshore islands and a world-class restaurant, and I was pretty sure Nanoose had all the makings for a great getaway destination—complete with sublime views.

WHEN APPROACHING NANOOSE Bay, the first step is checking to see if Whiskey Golf is active. You can do this by calling 1-888-221-1011 or listening to Winchelsea Control on VHF 10. Once that’s taken care of you can start exploring your way through the gorgeous, and underrated, archipelago. The Ballenas-Winchelsea Archipelago is a rugged collection of islands located within the Snaw-naw-as traditional territory. Providing habitat for nesting and resting birds, California and Steller sea lions and exceptional Garry oak and coastal Douglas-fir ecosystems, the islands and islets have

been identified as an ideal location for a marine park—a long standing conservation goal of the Mount Arrowsmith Biosphere Reserve. Among the islands is 10.4-hectare South Winchelsea, which was acquired in 1998 and is now owned by the Nature Trust of BC. This island along with 12-hectare Gerald Island Provincial Park, which was established in 2013, features a rocky coastal bluff ecosystem and is open to visitors. North Winchelsea Island is a bit different. With its abundance of communication arrays it serves as the operations centre for Canadian Forces Maritime Experimental and Test Ranges—reports say if you get too close you’re

asked to move away. Farther up the chain, South Ballenas Island remains Crown land held by the Government of Canada and is off limits to visitors. The island I was most excited about seeing was West Ballenas Island, an undeveloped 40-hectare island that most boaters know for its small lighthouse. Coming around the north end of Ballenas, Mike Bellis, our skipper from Haida Gold Adventures pointed out some of the prime fishing spots off the islands—where you can catch salmon, lingcod and rockfish or drop crab and prawn traps. He also told us to keep an eye out for whales (ballena means whale in Spanish). Now that the humpbacks have returned to the

Top: Fairwinds Marina at Schooner Cove. Right: The Ballenas Island light, located on West Ballenas Island.

Salish Sea they’ve also come back to the archipelago. On the east side of the island we headed into the small bay created between the two islands and anchored close to the shore of South Ballenas—here we watched seals go after the small herring that were hiding under rafts of seaweed.

It’s this near-pristine richness that compelled the BC Parks Foundation to start a crowd sourcing campaign to buy the island when it came on the market in 2020. Slated to be divided into individual development parcels, the foundation secured an agreement

to buy West Ballenas for a reduced price of $1.7 million. Once this opportunity was presented, people from all over the region kicked in and helped with its successful purchase. With ownership now in the hands of the Snaw-naw-as People and BC Parks—the goal is to develop the island for cultural purposes and low impact recreation. But for now it’s pretty tricky to get ashore and explore—so we admired it from the water and then headed the short distance back to Fairwinds Marina, checking out the other islands along the way.

PREVIOUSLY KNOWN AS Schooner Cove, Fairwinds Marina has just announced a three-year, three-phase update. First up will include relocating the fuel dock to ensure it’s more accessible and updating the wobbly docks to a more stable cement style. With 550 feet of transient space, the marina offers the usual pump-out, showers, laundry and wifi as well as unique perks including a shuttle to the golf course and easy access to Fairwinds Landing, home to the Nanoose Bay Café and the Fairwinds Residences, a collection of 11 oceanfront vacation

Nanoose Ba y

West Ballenas Is.

Fairwinds Marina

Fairwinds Golf Course Brickyard Bay

Rusted Rake Brewing

WHISKEY GOLF

Winchelsea Islands

South Ballenas Is.

Fleet Point

Datum Rock

Gerald Island Prov. Park Mistaken Is.

Springford Farm

Nanoose Bay

Yeo Islands Amelia Is.

Southey Is. Maude Is.

rental suites for those who prefer to sleep on land.

As a fan of Nanoose Bay Café’s renowned sister restaurants; Qualicum Beach Café and Water Street Café in Vancouver’s Gastown neighbourhood, I was excited to try the newest establishment in the group. A step up from typical marina eateries—the menu of the gorgeous family-run restaurant centres on local ingredients, products and suppliers (the sockeye on roasted butternut squash gnocchi was my favourite). It also has a great wine list and a killer view—making it perfect for a lingering afternoon. If you need a few supplies, the market carries local eggs, meats and other foods as well as arts and crafts from 50 local vendors.

MY STAY IN Nanoose Bay was too short—but I did find time to wander the hilly roads and check out a local park—which offered views of West Ballenas and a humpback spouting

in the distance. It was a view that was both timeless and current. The hope is in the years to come the entire Ballenas-Winchelsea Archipelago and several of the parks that line the peninsula’s shore will be designated as a marine park under the joint management of the Snaw-naw-as People and BC Parks. In the meantime I’ve learned Nanoose Bay has more to offer than I ever expected and my next someday visit will happen much sooner.

ANCHORING IN NANOOSE BAY

While it’s possible to anchor in Nanoose Bay—doing so is a bit different than anchoring in most places in BC. Before arriving you’re required to call in to Winchelsea Control (VHF Channel 10 or 16), to inform them of your plan to visit Nanoose Harbour. You’ll then be asked to register your arrival, intended duration of stay and departure from the harbour by contacting the King’s Harbour Master (Nanoose Harbour) at 250-327-4142, or a harbour official at 250-3637584/250-363-2160.

Once in the harbour you’ll be directed to an anchorage south of a line drawn west of Datum Rock and near Fleet Point. You may be required to moor with two anchors and will need to follow all directions given by the harbour officials.

The newly opened Nanoose Bay Cafe offers sailors a range of great dining options.

ANCHORAGES OF THE

Mid-Coast

Part 2: The Outside Passage along Queens Sound

Story & Photos By Rick Hudson

Leaving the outer McNaughton Group anchorage (3) on a sparkling morning. Both the outer and inner basins provide excellent protection during the summer.

Rick Hudson

MID-COAST ANCHORAGES

Most cruisers who visit the midcoast are bent on getting north, to Prince Rupert, Haida Gwaii or Alaska. Time is of the essence and a departure in early May helps to make each daily transit less onerous and give the cruiser a few foul weather days of grace. But for others, hammering up Fitz Hugh Sound and across Seaforth Channel is missing the point. There are archipelagoes aplenty on the outer coast, many somewhat sheltered by the Goose Group which lies seven miles offshore, and there’s much to see and do in the Hakai and Outer Central Coast Islands Conservancies.

The challenge is often choosing where to anchor. On the charts, there appear to be a multitude of likely places, but the reality is rather different. Many apparently protected locations have seabeds deeper than 20 metres, and most of us are reluctant to drop 60 to 70 metres of chain into the blue. Then there are the prevailing winds— mostly light summer northwesters, but even in summer they can change quickly, and what seemed like a snug anchorage can quickly morph into an exposed hell-hole with a freshening breeze or a shift in wind direction. Finally, a lot of ocean water pumps in and out of the many fjords running far into the mainland, meaning the outer coast experiences strong

CULTUS SOUND

currents. Since most high tides are at night, what seemed like a well protected spot in the afternoon can change to a main thoroughfare after dark when rocks and sandbars are covered.

With that in mind, here are another five hidden gems that provide safe harbour. From them you can explore this fascinating, complicated coastline.

1. SUPERSTITION POINT Midway up Queens Sound, this is a

Superstition Pt.

1. Superstition Bay

HUNTER ISLAND

Trail

2. Kayak Cove

Phee Hudson

popular fishing spot reached from the communities of Bella Bella and Shearwater via protected channels. Only after leaving the mouth of Cultus Sound do you experience the outer swells that roll up from the southwest. The Canadian Sailing Directions notes: “Superstition Ledge, 0.2 miles SSW of Superstition Point, consists of a group of drying and below-water rocks. The sea breaks heavily at times on the ledge and there are strong tiderips in the vicinity.”

Just in from the point is Superstition

Above: Kayak Cove, just in from Queens Sound, is a well positioned anchorage (2), close to good fishing to the west and protected cruising to the north. There is also a white sand beach that provides family entertainment.

Bay, close to the fishing action, sheltered from a southeaster, and backed by a pale sand beach. The bay offers shelter from the rollers of Queens Sound. Anchor over sand and mud in

10 metres, surrounded by cedar forest. It’s not recommended after prolonged summer northwesters, as swells can leak into the bay, despite it being 0.4 miles deep; but in a southeaster it’s excellent. A path leads from the back of the bay north across the peninsula to Kayak Cove beach.

On numerous occasions when we’ve walked that path to visit the beach, we’ve encountered a variety of waders and peeps—semipalmated sandpipers, greater yellowlegs, and even a pair of sandhill cranes.

The southern entrance to Cultus Sound and Sans Peur (‘without fear’) Passage is just to the north of Superstition Point, buttressed by the McNaughton Group to the north and Hunter Island to the south and east. The big swells that roll up Queens Sound quickly calm and shortly thereafter one of our favourite anchorages appears on the starboard bow. Kayak Cove, with its outer protective islets and its sandy beach, is a great place to drop the hook after the excitement of transiting Queens Sound. There’s good protection in most directions, apart from a rare northeaster. Anchor inside the islets over sand and shell in 10 metres.

At low tide the beach is a treat, wide and curved, though shaded because it faces north. Black sands create whimsical patterns in the intertidal zone. And if you’re lucky, you may run into what Iain Lawrence (Far-Away Places,

Orca Books, 1995) calls ‘the little people’—sea kayakers who favour sheltered beaches for their overnight camping spots. Step into the tall cedar forest just behind the white sand and you’ll find paths to tent clearings and whimsical furniture constructed from driftwood. Like leprechauns, the little people are seldom seen. When on the water they may give you a wave as you pass slowly, to avoid rocking them in your wake, but a land sighting is as rare as spotting a sandhill crane.

Sometimes, if you’re lucky, there will be two or four colourful hulls pulled up above the high tide line at Kayak Cove. Approach slowly—they can be flighty, and they value their solitude.

2. KAYAK COVE

Above: The inner anchorage (3) in the McNaughton Group provides a snug refuge from the weather and offers a variety of local routes to explore by dinghy or kayak. Top Right: The bay at the north end of the McNaughton Group is the site of a former Heiltsuk village with an inland lake providing water and a large midden.

Usually, they’re paddling some long route such as Ketchikan to Seattle, or Prince Rupert to Vancouver. If you probe gently, you’ll discover a deep underlying yearning for true wilderness, something that’s noticeably lacking in the 21st century. They seem to find it here. Wish them well. If you have a loaf of bread to spare, it will always be greatly appreciated, as there’s only so much Swedish knäckebröd a person can pack into a kayak. Or eat on a daily basis.

There’s a trail leading south from Kayak Beach to Superstition Bay Beach, leaving about mid-point along the sand. It’s roughly 250 metres through tall cedars and dense salal, and is a good way to stretch your sea legs. On the way you may hear (but seldom see) Townsend and Wilson’s warblers.

3. MCNAUGHTON GROUP

The islands forming the McNaughton Group don’t appear to be named individually. The group forms the west side of Sans Peur Passage, which is a popular and sheltered route to transit north or south, rather than out in roly-poly Queens Sound.

The islands collectively offer two natural harbours, both approached from the northwest. Upon entering the 0.5-mile-long channel, there’s a drying reef mid-channel that is ob -

vious. Apart from that, the route is straightforward. The outer anchorage is large with depths of 15 metres over sticky mud. Caution should be taken in the event of a northwester blowing, as many of the islets forming the northwest side have reefs and islets that submerge at high tide, allowing swells to leak into the basin.

A more secure anchorage is the inner harbour directly east of the first one. Beware of a lone rock off the starboard bow when transiting the narrow-ish entrance (80 metres wide). Once inside this inner sanctum, you are well enclosed from any outside weather. Anchor over sticky mud in five to eight metres surrounded by western red cedar, sitka spruce and shore pine.

There’s much to explore in the McNaughton Group. For kayakers (no propeller to worry about) there are two fine circuits that make for interesting paddling. Immediately east of the inner anchorage, a narrow slot

floods east at high tide and allows the paddler to pop out into a channel parallel to Sans Peur Passage. Time it right so you get a push from the rising tide. Once out of the squeeze, there are many nooks and crannies to explore, and the surface is generally calm.

There’s also an excellent exit south from the outer anchorage. It too dries at low tide, but once flooded, makes a very pleasant way to explore the large island that lies to the west. Drifting south over the recently covered shallows shows a diverse variety of marine life. Continue south into deeper water, where at the island’s southern end a long, narrow, sheltered channel leads west to Queens Sound, with views across the water to the Simonds Group offshore. On calm days, paddling the cliffs on the west side of McNaughton Island allows you to circumnavigate it, returning via the entrance to the anchorages. On wild and windy days, return to the sheltered

MCNAUGHTON GROUP

3. McNaughton outer harbour

3. McNaughton inner harbour

John Harper.

waters of the channel behind you, and the calm of the inner islands.

Another interesting exploratory trip is to the deep bay at the northern tip of the group. It dries at low water, so approach it on a rising tide. At the back of the bay lies a large midden and a stream fed from an inland lake. This was the site of a Heiltsuk village in pre-contact times.

At the southern tip of Campbell Island, and protected from the south by Dodwell Island, is one of our all-time favourite gunkholes. Approach from the west-southwest off Queens Sound, or with caution from the southeast, finding a well sheltered inner basin north of Dodwell. There are rocks and reefs from both directions, but with caution and a

bow watch, passage is straightforward. Anchor in five to 10 metres over sticky mud and shell. Just northeast of the anchorage is a massive clam garden that dries at low water, and a midden with huge cedars growing in it (the trees appear to like the alkaline soil).

I have written about this anchorage in more detail before (August, 2015) because the main attraction is the archipelago that surrounds you. It’s fun to explore its sheltered waters and there’s good crabbing and excellent fishing out in Queens Sound. But the real treat is the five-lagoon passage, located to the northeast of the anchorage. Time it to enter about 30 minutes before high water and get carried in on the last of the flood’s current. Four narrows separate five lagoons. The first two narrows are filled with Pacific kelp, making it tricky for propeller craft, but easy for paddleboards or kayaks. Notice how the marine life changes as you get deeper into the chain of basins, as the ocean energy drops. At the very back are muddy flats where wading birds are often seen. If you’ve timed it right, you should reach the final basin as the tide turns to ebb, and you can then be carried back out again with a mini-

DODWELL ISLAND

5. Unnamed anchorage

4. Unnamed anchorage

Soulsby Point

Central Vancouver Island’s Largest Boatyard - 1840 Stewart Ave., Nanaimo, BC - 250-716-9065

4. DODWELL ISLAND WEST

mum of effort. To find out more go to pacificyachting.com/two-lagoons.

5. DODWELL ISLAND EAST

This anchorage (again unnamed) is close to the previous one (4), but approached from Hunter Channel on the east side of Campbell Island. Turn in at Soulsby Point, passing a derelict cabin on an islet to starboard. Motor carefully up the channel northwest to a large inner basin. The channel is quite thick with kelp, but there’s adequate depth.

The middle of the anchorage is deep (30 metres) but the western side shallows to five to 10 metres. Pay attention to the high points in the seabed— there’s plenty of room between them. We have always favoured the zone close to the trees to the west. Looking south, there appears to be a wide entrance into the anchorage from that direction. We’ve not tried it, as the charted rocks and reefs make the passage appear foul.

From the basin you are close to the five-basin lagoon (described above), plus a suite of islets that are worth exploring at any time. The anchorage is just outside the Hakai Conservancy boundary, which ends at the north shore of Dodwell Island.

Thoughts on Anchoring

Visiting remote anchorages means you will be dropping the hook in different depths and different surroundings with different seabeds. Some find this intimidating. It shouldn’t be. Practice makes perfect. Here are a few suggestions:

1. Have a decent anchor that’s large enough to do the job properly. Everyone has their own opinion of what a good anchor is. If you don’t have an opinion, ask at the boaters’ pub, and prepare to have your ear bent. Or walk around the marina and check out the well-used anchors. Avoid the polished, stainlesssteel ones that have clearly never hit the saltchuck.

Be consistent with your units. Our charts are in metres, so our depth sounders and chain are set to metres. Converting in your head between fathoms on the depth sounder, feet on the chain, and metres on the charts just leads to confusion. It can happen to the most experienced pilots. Keep it simple and consistent.

2. Have plenty of chain. We carry 90 metres/300 feet of chain, with another 45 metres/150 feet of rode, but to be honest, we have never put out more than 70 metres, and that was in a major storm. Normally we anchor with a 3:1 ratio in deeper water (>10 metres), about 4:1 in shallow (five to 10 metres).

3. Much of the mid-coast is well charted, but we still have a ritual we follow every time we drop the hook. We approach our planned drop point, and pass over it, continuously watching the depth sounder(s). We call the depths to each other while one person is on bow watch. About 50 metres beyond the proposed drop point we turn hard and motor a slow circumference, with our planned drop point in the centre, all the while calling the depths back and forth. There’s nearly always a

shallow side and a deeper one. Once we’ve completed the circle, we continue on the circumference until directly downwind of the centre point, and then turn upwind. By now, we should have a good idea of what the bottom looks like. If it doesn’t resemble the chart, reconsider the anchorage! Otherwise, drop at the centre, drift downwind, test the set with a couple of judicious reverse pulls on the chain, which should stretch tight and then slacken off as its weight pulls the vessel forward. Watch the left and right horizon to see that the boat is moving forward. Watch the chartplotter too, to confirm the boat is moving up. If you come forward, the anchor has set properly.

4. Know your tides! Check the next high tide and let out at least three times that amount of chain/rode. If you’re expecting high winds or strong currents, put out more. In shallow water, add the height of the roller above the water to the water depth. Remember that in depths less than five metres there’s a likelihood of weed on the bottom that can fool you into thinking you have a good set, when in fact you just have a ball of kelp holding you there.

5. This is such a simple process, if done properly. In 15 years of anchoring we’ve only dragged a few times. Anchor often, and hone your technique until it becomes second nature. If you have a failure, don’t get mad at someone. Analyze what went wrong and change your routine to avoid that error in the future.

Above: An old shack stands on an islet to starboard as you enter anchorage 5 via a narrow but safe passage from Hunter Channel just south of Soulsby Point.

Rick Hudson

SOUTH PACIFIC

DIVING in PARADISE

A long-awaited return to the South Pacific’s Tuamotu Archipelago

By Ellen Massey Leonard

Ever since we first sailed to the Tuamotu archipelago 15 years ago, Seth and I wanted to dive the famous South Pass of Fakarava Atoll. At that time, we were still new to ocean sailing and certainly to scuba diving. We were partway along our first blue-water journey, our voyage around the world, and we were both in our early 20s. Seth and I had sailed Heretic, our primitive 38-foot copy of the Sparkman & Stephens yawl, Finisterre, from Maine through the Panama Canal and across the Pacific to French Polynesia. Before the voyage, we had both been small-boat sailors and racers, but those 10,000 miles were our first offshore ones. As for scuba diving, we were complete novices. We had only breathed underwater for the first time in the British West Indies while en route to Panama. In the Galapagos, we had earned our advanced dive certifications. In the Marquesas, we had made our first dives from Heretic without a guide. We were keen on our new sport, but little did we know that when we reached the Tuamotu atolls, we would be hooked for life.

TUAMOTU MEANS “MANY motu” in the local language, a motu being a coral islet It’s a perfect name for this great arc of coral atolls stretching more than 1,000 miles across the South Pacific. Diving in the Tuamotu is all about sharks and fast currents. Most of the diving takes place in the passes that lead into the atolls and on an outgoing tide these passes are dangerous for sailors and divers alike. The ebb pours out of some of the lagoons at speeds exceeding eight knots, generating steep standing waves as it sets against the wind. Beneath the waves, the outflow creates a ferocious down-current, potentially lethal to any diver caught in it. All drift dives are consequently done on flood tides, going into the lagoon. Sailors navigate these passes at slack water or at the beginning of the flood, when the surface is calm and the current negligible.

The largest atoll of the archipelago, Rangiroa, has one of the strongest currents. When Seth and I sailed there 15 years ago, we managed to time our arrival for slack tide. Given that we were arriving at the end of a six-day passage (from the Marquesas, the archipelago about 600 miles to the northeast), our

Marquesas Is.

favourable timing was mostly luck, but we took it and wafted through the placid pass under only our genoa. Then we rounded the corner into the anchorage, tacked up into shallower water, luffed into the wind, and dropped the hook. We were true sailing purists—and also impoverished 20-year-olds—and we never used our engine if we could help

Fakarava Atoll

Rangiroa Atoll

Hao Atoll French Polynesia

it. A few hours later, while taking a walk ashore, we saw what Tiputa Pass becomes on the ebb: With dolphins leaping from the steep white water, it was quite a sight, and not something we would want to be caught in.

THE FOLLOWING DAY, on the flood tide, we slipped underwater to experi-

ence Rangiroa’s phenomenal diving. We began by backrolling into the open ocean, right into a school of barracuda and then descending to a school of gray reef sharks. I remember marveling at the otherworldly sensation of floating weightless in a water column that felt as clear as air and being sur-

rounded by the predators who live there. Then we let the current take us into the pass, and we flew along faster and faster. It was exhilarating to the point where I ran out of air and had to breathe from the dive guide’s extra regulator. Toward the end, a huge manta ray was turning somersaults right in our path.

An overhead view showing the strong ebb tide at Hao Atoll.

When Rangiroa’s fringe of palms dipped below the horizon in Heretic’s wake about 10 days later, we vowed we’d come back someday. Through a series of very lucky circumstances, we managed to do so nearly 12 years later. We had sold Heretic by then and had bought another old classic to replace her, Celeste, a 40-foot, cold-molded wooden sloop designed by Francis Kinney, editor of Skene’s Elements of Yacht Design.

In 2018 we again made the long passage across the Pacific to French Polynesia, this time from Mexico. After a week or so in the Marquesas, we set off for the southern end of the Tuamotu chain, to an atoll called Hao. The first time we’d sailed from the Marquesas to the Tuamotu, we’d enjoyed a pleasant and even-keeled, if slow, six-day amble downwind. This time would be different. Our angle on the trade wind was a close reach and the breeze was strong. Instead of swaying before the wind wing on wing, we punched into head seas for 4.5 days under triple-reefed main, jib, and staysail.

NOW IN OUR 30s, we were too conscientious to rely solely on luck for either our weather forecasting or timing our tides. And so, of course, we got worse weather—strong headwinds — and we got the tides all wrong. (In fact, our tide tables were wrong.)

Once inside Hao’s lagoon, it was quick and pleasant work to skim across the water to the anchorage.

The anchorage was in fact a crumbling wharf, convenient and very sheltered. Hao is a sleepy place without any tourist infrastructure. The atoll is the site of the former French military base from which nuclear tests were launched between 1966 and 1996. Until fairly recently, no one was allowed to visit the

place. Seth and I were curious to see it. Underwater, we were saddened to see the state of the lagoon: murky, much of the coral dead and with significant debris, seemingly thrown there at random. The lagoon was fortunately not what Jacques Cousteau called the “universal sewer,” but it did seem to have been the trash heap. There were a surprising number of reef fish and eels despite the debris and algae-covered coral.

In a place like this there are no scuba operators. So, Seth and I were thrilled to be invited to join the Fafapiti Diving Club, a group of French teachers at the local school on Hao who had come together to buy a boat and an air compressor. These French divers were all very skilled and rather risk-loving and so preferred to make deep dives on the coral walls outside the lagoon entrance. Indeed, that is where most of the big critters were: reef sharks cruising above seemingly infinite schools of red bigeyes; manta rays turning lazy circles just below us at 140 feet and occasionally above us; schools of rainbow runners and sometimes a big tuna or amberjack; once or twice a five-metre-long tiger shark.

AFTER TWO MONTHS between Hao and an even more remote neighbouring atoll, it was time to sail back to the Marquesas, where we planned to leave Celeste for the cyclone season after our visas ran out. We rode the back of a low-pressure system east for two days beneath overcast skies—easy reaching under genoa and single-reefed main— but we were slower than the system, and soon we were back to clear skies

and trade winds well forward of the beam. We had a splendid reward for our upwind sailing, however, when we dropped anchor in the moonlight all alone among the spires of the famous Baie des Vierges on Fatu Hiva. We spent the following year in the Marquesas, but in 2020 we returned once again to the Tuamotu. This time, our main destination was the place we had long dreamed of diving: Fakarava Atoll.

FAKARAVA LIES IN the middle of the Tuamotu arc and is one of the largest of the group, its coral motu encompass-

Fast passage to windward heading toward Hao Atoll.

ing a lagoon with a surface area of over 1,000 square kilometres. Two passes lead into the lagoon from the ocean— the mile-wide Garuae Pass in the north and the narrow, coral-lined alleyway of Tumakohua Pass in the south. It is this pass that has made the atoll renowned among divers and has led to Fakarava’s status as a UNESCO biosphere reserve. The coral reefs are brilliantly alive, hosting thousands of reef fish, from little dartfish hiding in the coral to behemoth Napoleon wrasse that can tip the scales at 400 pounds.

While we had expected our passages

to and from Hao to be more or less upwind, we hoped to repeat the easy downwind passage we had made 14 years earlier. Instead, Celeste took us for a fast gallop to windward. With the wind well in the south—and thus forward of the beam—and the combined wind and swell height reaching 12 feet, it was a wet and bouncy ride. With only jib and staysail up, we had the lee rail buried nearly the entire time and were shipping so much water over the bow that we couldn’t open the centre hatch for air. As we plotted our noon position each day, however, we found we were

consistently making our fastest runs ever: 180 miles each day and that in a boat with only a 28-foot waterline. We covered the 550 miles and raised the atoll in only three days.

Upon arrival, we decided first to dive Garuae Pass, and this turned out to be one of the most adrenaline-pumping dives I’ve ever done. We would backroll into the open ocean just outside the pass during the height of the flooding current and then we’d make a rapid descent to the coral shelf at 120 feet in order to keep from being swept into the lagoon before we’d seen anything. Down at

depths close to decompression limits, we would hook onto outcroppings of dead coral and stare out into the blue at the parade of reef sharks. The current flowing over us was occasionally so strong that it threatened to tear my regulator out of my mouth. I’d made decompression dives before, and wreck dives well inside submerged ships, but this was thrilling, exactly the sort of challenge I’d hoped for.

TUMAKOHUA—SOUTH PASS—was beckoning, however. To get there, Seth and I sailed Celeste the full length of Fakarava’s lagoon, nearly 40 miles along the coral motu lining the windward side. The protected waters once again made for superb sailing. Instead of pitching against head-seas and shipping green waves over the bow, Celeste heeled cleanly and flew along through

the flat water. When we’re offshore, Celeste’s tiller is usually hooked up to her wind vane, but inside these lagoons we instead attached the tiller extension and stood out on the windward deck, steering her like she was a dinghy.

The anchorage off the South Pass is not protected, however—it’s open to quite a lot of fetch across the wide lagoon—and so is only comfortable when there is little wind. Therefore, we were unable to dive the South Pass as much as we would have liked. Every time the wind got up, we’d retreat seven miles upwind to a perfectly protected bay tucked into the southeast corner of the lagoon. But when we could anchor near the dive site, it was spectacular.

I have never seen such pristine coral than where we began the dive at the drop-off at 90 feet down. Plate after plate of it staircased into the abyss. The

first time we went, we were visited by five of the most enormous eagle rays I’ve ever seen, but the sharks were the stars of the show. In the mix were a species one doesn’t often see: blacktips— not blacktip reef sharks but the openwater species that are faster and more energetic. Just as in the North Pass, we drifted into the lagoon with the current, skimming over beautiful coral and colourful fish until we ascended beside a ball of snapper, scales shimmering in the sunlight.

BUT SAILORS LIKE to sail, so after as many dives as we could do, we set off for the less-visited atoll of Toau. We made the trip in just a couple of daysails. First, we had a perfect downwind trip back north over Fakarava’s smooth lagoon, and then after a night’s sleep, we exited the lagoon at slack tide and

Beautiful coral in the shallows.

swayed downwind over the swell. We anchored in several different spots on Toau over the next week or so, doing a few dives from our dinghy, snorkeling, walking the beaches, and getting to know the few residents. Then we returned to Rangiroa.

The overnight sail to this largest atoll, the site of so many of our best memories, was the sort to make any ocean sailor forget all the gales and upwind slogs he’s ever made. I had one of those night watches you don’t want to end, ghosting downwind with 12 knots on the quarter, a clear sky glittering with stars overhead, and phosphorescence shining in the wake. Perfect.

A ball of paddletail and one-spot snapper, Tumahokua (South)Pass.

At first approach from the sea, Ran-

giroa looked the same as it had on our first visit 14 years before. But once we had dropped anchor, we realized that it now supports both a much larger local population and more tourists. There were correspondingly more dive and snorkel boats, but happily it didn’t seem to have affected the marine life. While we didn’t see any manta rays this time, we instead were approached by an inquisitive great hammerhead. Being investigated by this iconic and critically endangered shark while floating 50 feet down, a quarter of a mile out to sea, in the disorienting world of the bottomless blue ocean, was an unforgettable experience.

ON OUR FIRST visit, we had circumnavigated Rangiroa’s lagoon, reveling in the flat water and brisk winds, one of us

always on bow lookout for coral bommies (most of the lagoons in the Tuamotu remain uncharted once you get away from the pass and village). We had taken about a week over it—the lagoon is nearly 1,500 square kilometers—and we’d stopped at several lovely motu, the two of us all alone with the coconut trees and the reef fish. That little cruise had been perhaps the biggest highlight of our entire trip around the world. We knew we wouldn’t be able to replicate it—most of life’s best memories cannot be—and so instead we focused on diving the pass and the outer reefs. We did a couple of sunset dives, during one of which we saw big schools of tangs and surgeonfish spawning in little dances in the water column. But before we left the atoll—and French Polynesia—we did make two more sails over the rippled la-

goon. Once again, we had the beautiful palm-fringed motu to ourselves, and we passed a few lazy days strolling the coral beaches and snorkeling from Celeste.

WE SAILED BACK up to the pass on the day of our departure for our 2,400-mile passage to Hawaii, sliding through at just the start of the ebb. As we went, we were visited by Rangiroa’s favourite residents, its pod of bottlenose dolphins, perhaps the same dolphins we had seen leaping clear of the standing waves all those years before. Rangiroa was every bit as wonderful as we’d remembered, and we were every bit as sad to be leaving.

And so, once again, as we watched Rangiroa recede in the waves astern, we vowed to ourselves that one day we’ll return.

SOUTH PACIFIC

Narrowboating in Scotland

Floating leisurely through history

By Hans Tammemagi

Avoyage aboard a narrowboat is, I discovered, completely different from other boats

I’ve been on. First and foremost, is the leisurely pace. For 10 days, Skylark inched along the old canals of Scotland, often passed by walkers on the towpath. I had ample time to ponder the meaning of life and question the frenetic rush that normally envelopes us.

A NARROWBOAT IS a throwback to ancient times. Years ago, bulk goods were transported by water on canals crisscrossing the countryside, cleverly using water, effectively for free, to flow in and out of locks which would lift boats up and down the varying height of the landscape. But in the early 1900s the railway came along, sounding the death knell for working narrowboats, which now survive strictly for recreation. At 63 feet long and a little under seven feet wide Skylark looked like

a long 20-ton cigar, and handled about the same.

Life aboard was easy for my wife Ally and me, as Cherie and David, good friends with ample experience in narrowboats as well as on their own sailing craft, took charge. We puttered from the Falkirk Wheel to Edinburgh and back along the Union Canal, which was built in 1822. Then we proceeded a little way toward Glasgow along the Clyde and Forth Canal (built in 1790).

Passing under a lift bridge on the Forth & Clyde Canal.

Hans Tammemagi

OUR ADVENTURE STARTED at the renowned Falkirk Wheel, which raises and lowers boats a dizzying 35 metres (115 feet) replacing 11 locks. The wheel is a dramatic modern contrast to old fashioned canal locks, which have been operating for more than two centuries with the giant timber doors being opened and closed manually.

The Falkirk Wheel lifts boats up and down by rotating like a giant Ferris wheel. Unique in the world, it is a marvel of technology. Giant gears surrounded us as we sat in our boat in a caisson filled with water so it exactly balanced the weight on the opposite side of the spindle. As a result, very little energy is required to

rotate the wheel.

At the top, the views of the countryside were phenomenal! Then, Skylark cruised through the new Rough Castle Tunnel with its psychedelic lighting and two new locks, then the Falkirk Tunnel with dripping water, stalactites and rockhewn sections.

To Ally’s delight, all modern conveniences were present aboard including showers, flush toilets, a modern kitchen with fridge and stove and central heating. Under David’s tutelage we learned to steer and to deal with tasks such as cleaning weeds from the propeller and filling the water tank. We also became quite familiar with each other

as we squeezed by in the narrow confines.

All of us took turns at the tiller as we glided past villages with old stone houses, and fields of bright yellow canola next to verdant green barley. We often stopped to visit nearby pubs, shop or join other walkers and bikers on the towpath.

STRANGELY, SEVERAL OF the fisher people we encountered had powerful magnets attached to their lines instead of lures. One couple proudly showed us old coins and other metal paraphernalia they had “caught.”

I became an ornithologist of sorts, as feathered creatures including mallards and their flotillas of fluffy

The Falkirk Wheel.

Hans Tammemagi

youngsters, swans, magpies, herons, crows, moorhens and gulls, constantly surrounded us, all treating Skylark like a mother. One tiny cygnet rode on her swan mother’s back, partially hidden under a large white wing.

One of my favourite urban stops was the historic town of Linlithgow (population 13,000). We explored the ruins of Linlithgow Palace, where Mary, Queen of Scots was born in 1542 and St. Michael’s Church with its unique Crown of Thorns spire.

The United Kingdom encourages the recreational use of its canals and we were delighted that clean facilities, including toilets, showers and occasionally laundries, could be accessed with a key provided to

us at the beginning of the voyage. A map of the canal guided us to moorage sites, water accesses, aqueducts, grocery stores and pubs. The elegant arcs of old stone bridges were much awaited as we compared their numbers to the map to determine our exact location.

AFTER THREE DAYS, Skylark arrived at the Edinburgh Quay, the eastern end of the Union Canal, located conveniently only minutes from the city centre. There was no charge for docking the boat and on arrival and departure the Leamington Lift Bridge was opened for free, although we had to pre-book the time.

The four of us spent two days exploring Edinburgh. Compared to

western Canada, the history and architecture is ancient and impressive. We visited the ramparts of the 900-year-old castle, which is balanced on a volcanic plug. We joined throngs of tourists and descended the Royal Mile to the Scottish Parliament and the Palace of Holyrood, the residence of King Charles when in Scotland. Closes, or narrow, winding alleys, leading off the Royal Mile, beckoned us. In the shadowy Advocates Close we discovered the Devil’s Advocate pub where, savouring a local ale, I tried to develop a frothy moustache. In the Dunbar Close, eight distinct areas were laid out in the fashion of a 17th century garden. What a delight to have this restful, charming escape in the middle of

a bustling city!

In the morning, the Leamington Bridge lifted and we sailed out of Edinburgh Quay. After a few days of gentle puttering, we were back at the Falkirk Wheel. We descended, had Skylark checked by ABC Boat Hire and then set off toward Glasgow along the Forth and Clyde Canal.

Although built in 1790, more than three decades before the Union Canal, the Forth and Clyde is wider and straighter. Numerous locks are located at the western end, but we only passed through the first four in the east, as we sailed just part way toward Glasgow. The locks were tended by two keepers, who guided us in and out, raised and lowered the paddles that released water and closed the heavy, wooden lock doors by pushing heartily. Then they bicycled

to the next lock to repeat the process. We moored just past the Glasgow Road Bridge and found the nearby Stable Hotel, where we happily consumed pints of amber ale. In the morning, we motored leisurely back

to the Falkirk Wheel and ended a wonderful journey.

EVEN BEFORE LEAVING, I was already yearning for the slow pace of a narrowboat.

Above: Water drips in the Falkirk Tunnel. Right: Two chefs in the galley of Skylark.

BY ALEX FOX

Hey, What’s Your Angle?

of the importance of boat balance and heel angle, but that judgement comes from other indicators. I would suggest the most important heel angle references are forestay angle to the horizon upwind, and mast angle to the horizon downwind. Wait, what? These sound like the same thing. Well, yes and no. Upwind, the helmsperson will typically be sitting to windward, eyes focused forward, with a clear view of the water ahead, the jib luff and telltales and the forestay angle relative to the horizon. The good crew is also aware of the angle of heel using these same references. One additional input is helm balance, directly connected to heel angle. A little too much weather helm will signal that some sort of action is required. Perhaps a slight feather up, maybe traveller down or a mainsheet ease or possibly a repositioning of crew weight. All these things are factors in maintaining the optimum angle of heel, along with all the usual sail trim controls. The goal is to balance point with power so that the underwater foils work most efficiently. Heel angle is an important piece of the speed puzzle!

Every sailboat will have an optimum angle of heel for a given wind strength and sea state, both upwind and downwind. It seems like a simple enough concept, but arriving at the right answer can be more complicated and not always clear. Let’s explore heel angle and how it relates to achieving the best performance from a variety of boats in different conditions.

EFIRST OFF, JUST for clarity, zero degrees of heel is when the mast is fully upright. Five degrees of heel is when the mast is leaning to leeward that amount. Minus five degrees is when the mast is angled to windward. Make sense? Many boats will have a heel indicator, commonly referred to as an inclinometer or clinometer. These are more often located near the front of the cockpit, usually within normal line of sight of the helmsperson, although not always. It’s been my experience that most racing crews don’t pay all that much attention to this instrument. Guilty as charged. Now, I’d like to qualify that a bit by stating that most racing crews are indeed very aware

DOWNWIND, THE GOAL is the same, but the game is different. While upwind sailing is more about minimum course adjustments and maintaining a constant angle of heel, downwind sailing is often quite the opposite. It’s fascinating to watch a fleet of boats round a weather mark and observe how they spread out, with a variety of initial course choices. I’d describe upwind sailing as static and subtle, aside from choosing one tack or the other. Downwind sailing is generally more active and dynamic, unless we’re talking small dinghies, where physicality comes into play both upwind and down. Sailing downwind also encourages more changes to heel angle, especially when there’s wave action and pressure changes on the course. Crew movement contributes to those heel angle changes and can assist in steering the boat, rather than relying solely

Andrew Madding

A six metre "heeled and happy."

on the rudder. Immersing one side of the hull is an effective method of helping to head up or to bear away. Most boats tend to rock a little when sailing downwind, with the masthead swinging through as much as 10 or 20 degrees without having a negative effect on performance—in fact, quite the contrary. One final indicator of heel angle that I find useful upwind and down, is to look aft to where the deck and transom intersect and line them up with the horizon. This perspective lets you view the smoothness of the wake and whether the rudder drag is excessive or not.

NOW, GETTING BACK to every sailboat having an optimum angle of heel for any given condition. A Martin 242, for instance, is a light boat with a fine forward U-shaped bow section, flat-

tening amidships, with a nice clean run aft. The keel is high aspect, short chord length. The rudder is well aft and quite large in area. The rig is three quarters fractional, with swept back spreaders, a large main and a small jib. Sailed with a crew of three or four, this keelboat responds to small trim adjustment upwind, minimum helm movement and precise heel angle both upwind and down. In very light air 10 to 15 degrees is optimum. An easily driven, quick to accelerate hull, things change in a hurry as the Martin powers up. Start moving the weight to weather, while maintaining perhaps eight to 12 degrees of heel as the breeze increases and once fully powered up, a little flatter is OK. The Martin will fool you into thinking you can trim tighter and point higher. This will typically not pay off. It’s bet-

ter to put the bow back down a bit and get some feel back. It’s a balancing act and it all revolves around the angle of point and the angle of heel. Once into full hike conditions the angle will likely increase to 12 to 13 degrees without suffering, as the underwater shape remains relatively symmetrical even when heeled a little. Compared to a much beamier boat like a J-24, with its smaller rudder and a shorter keel, the J sails best when flat, keeping the keel working and the immersed hull shape symmetrical. Back to the Martin and downwind sailing heel angle. The main is big, the spinnaker is what I would call midsized. The rig is far forward on the deck, and again in light air the Martin likes a bit of heel, 10 degrees perhaps, weight forward and to leeward, pole forward and low, speed first, then gradually

soak down and flatten whenever possible, especially when pressure builds. When the boat slows, come up again before the flow disappears to keep the chute lifting and the boat moving. Once the breeze hits 10 knots, the pole can be squared, and the boat flattened to no heel at all. In 12 to 15 knots of breeze it’s about running deep, with the pole fully squared and even -5 degrees of heel. This balances the rudder totally, and even prompts the boat to soak down even more. Very few boats can sail low and fast like a 242! With the wind approaching 20, I’d put the bow back up five degrees, pole forward a couple of feet and the boat totally flat, with weight aft. This prevents a windward roll and keeps the sail plan over the centre of buoyancy of the hull, making control the priority.

FINALLY, LET’S LOOK at a very different boat, the six metre. I’ve had the pleasure of racing a couple of these in a few regattas, but I enjoyed the experience and hopefully learned a few things along the way. Modern six metres are narrow and heavy, with lots of wetted surface, a large keel, trim tab, wings and a high aspect rudder. The classic six has only a rudder on the trailing edge of the keel. It’s a different animal. Both have large fractional rigs (fully adjustable fore and aft) along with running backstays, big mains, genoas and massive, round spinnakers. The name of the game in light air upwind is to develop as much power as possible. With the entire crew sitting to leeward inside the boat, helmsman to leeward, it’s wishful thinking that any heel can be encouraged, but every little bit helps. The heel

MARTIN MARINE

is likely to be less than five degrees and overcoming the drag from the large wetted surface begins at around six or seven knots of breeze and at 10 to 12 knots the six really comes alive! The crew will move to weather, but again it’s symbolic as much as anything. Most moderns use the trim tab to balance the helm and reduce—in theory—the overall drag on the rudder, leading to more speed. The classic six has only the rudder and may even be a little quicker in light air. Once the breeze builds though, helm builds up on the classic more quickly than the modern and conventional methods of depowering are required to limit the weather helm build up. Dropping the traveller, flattening the main and a touch of feathering are among the traditional gear changing. These are heavy boats though, that need power to keep driving, especially if there’s some chop. The six metre, as a general statement, loves to get the rail close to the water, but not in the water. Heeling is inevitable. Downwind, in light air is a real challenge, and again heel angle is what it is. In five knots of breeze the pole goes forward and hopefully the slightly smaller spinnaker is up, the biggest spinnaker will droop over the bow and drag in the water. There will be a crossover, when the pole comes back, the rig goes forward and the area of the big spinnaker drives the six straight downwind, or at least very low. That seems to occur around 10 to 12 knots. A little negative heel can also be good but be careful not to sail too low in over 20, these boats will only go so fast and with too much power in the rig, some rocking and rolling will likely ensue—just like the Martin. Then it’s time to head up a little, bring the rig upright and keep the boat under the sails.

THERE ARE SO many different boats out there and every design is unique. The game of sailboat racing is a collection of balances, and heel angle is a vital part of any successful formula. Good sailing all. See you on the water sometime soon!

Vic-Maui’s trustees and committee chairs have concluded it is in the best interest of competitors and stakeholders to cancel the 2024 Vic-Maui International Yacht Race.

Vic-Maui’s trustees and committee chairs have concluded it is in the best interest of competitors and stakeholders to cancel the 2024 Vic-Maui International Yacht Race.

It is with heavy hearts and challenging emotions we have come to this conclusion.

It is with heavy hearts and challenging emotions we have come to this conclusion.

The August 8th, 2023 wildfires on Maui were devastating. In addition to the complete loss of shoreside supports – the losses to residences, family, and friends of Lahaina - our Lahaina Yacht Club family – are monumental.

The August 8th, 2023 wildfires on Maui were devastating. In addition to the complete loss of shoreside supports – the losses to residences, family, and friends of Lahaina - our Lahaina Yacht Club family – are monumental.

Our LYC family needs our help and requires time to heal.

Our LYC family needs our help and requires time to heal.

We are committed to and will immediately start work on the 2026 Vic-Maui. Our goal is to make 2026 a very special race, celebrating the rebuilding of Lahaina and celebrating the 60th anniversary of both the founding of LYC and of the first Vic-Maui in 1965.

We are committed to and will immediately start work on the 2026 Vic-Maui. Our goal is to make 2026 a very special race, celebrating the rebuilding of Lahaina and celebrating the 60th anniversary of both the founding of LYC and of the first Vic-Maui in 1965.

Mahalo - Thank you - to our Vic-Maui community - competitors, volunteers, families, friends, and supporters around the world. We recognize and appreciate all your efforts and support.

Mahalo - Thank you - to our Vic-Maui community - competitors, volunteers, families, friends, and supporters around the world. We recognize and appreciate all your efforts and support.

We look forward to planning and sailing the 2026 Vic-Maui together.

We look forward to planning and sailing the 2026 Vic-Maui together.

BY TOM DAVIS

Proper Fish Release Techniques

Tips to improve the survivabilty of your catch

It’s in the best interests of everyone involved to correctly handle and release salmon that cannot be kept. Salmon are not the only species where proper release techniques apply. Rockfish are even more susceptible to release mortality, while durable species like lingcod and halibut also benefit from gentler handling.

SALMON

Anglers release salmon as a personal choice or to comply with regulations including minimum size limits, maximum size limits, slot limits or species non-retention. Surprisingly, anglers can improve salmon survival even before a fish is hooked. Anglers that jig, cast or mooch know they have a fish on because it telegraphs its presence on the rod immediately. Also, trollers using on-line weights will eventually see the rod’s action when a salmon is hooked.

However, the majority of saltwater anglers use downriggers. Downrigger fishing requires heavy cannonballs, strong wire cable and stiff rigger booms. It’s hard to know if a small fish is on because they aren’t big enough to trip the line from the release clip, and they barely move the rigger arm or rod tip if at all, resulting in a dead salmon.

TIPS FOR DOWNRIGGER FISHING

Solutions

1. Check your gear every 15 minutes.

The Downside: It’s a good idea as a standard practice, but time consuming and may still result in dead fish on the gear.

2. Move to an area where there are fewer juveniles.

IThe Downside: It works if you know where to go to avoid concentrations of smaller fish. However, these immature salmon are abundant between late summer and fall and they feed over wide expanses of water.

3. Attach a small bell to the end of the rigger boom.

This is an adaptation of an old technique when anglers hung bells on the tips of stiff rods rigged with wire line, heavy weights or planers.

The Downside: It does work, but might not signal every small salmon hook up.

4. Increase the drop-back distance from the downrigger cable to the lure.

The Downside: There isn’t one. This is an effective solution. If the drop-back is 15 to 20 feet, move it to 25 to 30 feet. Then leave a tiny bit of slack line when tightening the reel. This combination allows the rod tip to subtly telegraph a small fish hookup. The intermittent rod tip movement looks like the line has a piece of weed on it.

STRATEGIES THAT MINIMIZE RELEASE MORTALITY

1. Bring the fish to the boat quickly. For decades we fished with light rods and no flashers to get the maximum excitement from the angling experience. However, a salmon that’s brought to the boat quickly is less exhausted than a salmon that has been on the line too long. Anglers and boat drivers should develop their own communication sys tems for using the boat to shorten the distance between the angler and the fish. This reduces the length of time salmon are on the line.

2. Avoid using a conventional net mesh. Purchase a knotless mesh that fits your existing net frame. Only net a fish destined for release if there is no option, like high gunwales that prevent keeping the fish in the water during re lease.

3. Keep the salmon in the water dur ing release. Tail the fish by firmly grasping the salmon just in front of the tail to immobilize it. Then remove the fishhook.

4. Wet your hands before handling Dry hands remove slime and scales.

5. Use long-nose pliers to remove the hook. Usually, a sharp wrist flick removes the hook quickly.

6. Make sure your salmon hooks are barbless. It’s the law.

7. Cut the line if the hook is deeply embedded. If you’re having trouble removing the hook, sometimes it’s less damaging to leave it in.

8. Eliminate pre-release bragging photos. Instead, photograph or video releasing the fish.

9. Revive before release. Face the salmon into the current so oxygen-rich water can pass through its gills. Don’t release it until it begins to struggle, which indicates it’s ready to go.

10. Troll slightly faster. This produces less damaging hook wounds by reducing the percentage of hookups that are deeply ingested, while increasing the hookups on the inside jaw perimeter and the proximal exterior jaw area.

Knotless netting is much less abrasive than knotted netting which is less harmful to fish.

2023 Season in Review

The 2023 salmon fishing season surprised South Coast anglers, particularly those in the Strait of Georgia. Fraser River pinks surpassed 20 million and chinook numbers were much improved in most of the strait’s popular fishing destinations. However, the real surprise was the largest coho abundance since 2000.

These are positive signs. Yet abundance is a mixed blessing when it collides with fishing regulations.

Canada has adopted a precautionary fishery management approach. This is fine when warranted. However, the conversion to precautionary management did not include mechanisms to harvest robust salmon stocks, while minimizing exploitation rates on stocks that need protection. All fisheries are affected based on the premise that conservation is the first priority.

Currently, fisheries are constrained by non-retention regulations for Fraser River sockeye, middle and upper Fraser chinook, and Interior Fraser coho. There are variations to the regulations, but the result is lost opportunities to harvest hatchery and abundant wild salmon runs. The problem is weak runs often inter-mingle with strong runs and don’t separate until they near their home streams along the spawning migration routes.

There is also a huge incidental mortality debate going on. Opponents of mark selective fishing claim mortality rates are much higher than 20 percent. They want salmon fisheries closed or severely restricted, while opposing hatchery production and mass marking. Anglers contend the 20 percent figure is closer to the mark. Fortunately, a University of BC multi-year hook and release mortality study is nearing completion. The study used new technologies that account for as many observed and post-release mortalities as possible. The results will hopefully end this debate.

ROCKFISH

Rockfish suffer from barotrauma. It’s caused by the rapid ascent to the surface when rockfish are reeled in. They are not designed to effectively release gas from the swim bladder to compensate for the rapid pressure change. This causes their eyes and esophagus to expand and protrude.

This was the primary cause of mortality for rockfish released by recreational anglers until the development of ‘descending devices.’ These are now mandatory on all recreational fishing boats. They are easy to use. Attach the device’s clip to the fish’s mouth. Then, connect a weight before attaching it to the fishing line and slowly releasing it to the desired depth. The simplest designs use an inverted hook which pulls out when the device is reeled up. More sophisticated products have self-setting/pressure activated depth setting options that automatically release fish.

LINGCOD

Lingcod don’t suffer from barotrauma so use the same release methods that work for salmon. However, anglers have to be more careful. Lings, like other apex marine predators, have razor sharp teeth that can lacerate fingers in an instant.

HALIBUT

Even small halibut become beasts if handled the wrong way. Usually, a landed halibut was a dinner table halibut before size limits were imposed. Now, release requirements have changed that dynamic.

Gord Martin owns Foghorn Charters in Victoria and is an experienced recreational guide with a commercial fishing background.

He provided this advice about releasing halibut:

- Keep the fish in the water.

- Never net a halibut if you are going to release it unless it’s the only option.

- Use the gaff release technique. Slide the gaff hook down the line and secure it under the hook’s neck. Holding the fishing line firmly in one hand quickly twist and pull up the gaff, while pushing down on the line.

Descending devices, such as the SeaQualizer, are now mandatory on all recreational fishing boats.

TOM'S TIP

Make the effort to minimize hooking mortalities by practicing sound fish release techniques. This will produce benefits through improved angling opportunities in the future.

A noteworthy new speedster from this French builder Jeanneau NC 1295 Flybridge

BY PETER A. ROBSON

II always enjoy cruising down the North Arm of the Fraser—most often when testing new boats out of Vancouver’s Milltown Marina. I like that the wind and sea conditions where the confined river meets the exposed Strait of Georgia are often more challenging than in English Bay. This was the case when testing the Jeanneau NC 1295 Fly on a blustery August day.

Triple 300-horsepower V6, 4.2-litre Yamaha outboards drive this sleek new model at a top speed of 40 knots. With an overall length of 41' 2" (12.56 metres), Jeanneau has managed to accommodate three cabins, two heads, multiple outdoor living spaces as well as several interesting innovations.

Jeanneau has been building sailboats and powerboats for more than 60 years. The company was acquired by the massive Groupe Beneteau in 1995. The Jeanneau 1295 Flybridge is the flagship of the NC/ Merry Fisher line. The 1295 Fly is built by Jeanneau in Poland. It is interesting to note that Poland has become the largest boatbuilding country in Europe.

Tom King

Expansive windows bring a ton of light into the ergonomic interior.

ON DECK Primary boarding is via a narrow transom wing to starboard of the triple outboards. However, a portside bulwark door and a clever dropdown starboard bulwark terrace, with railings, provides easy alternate access to the cockpit and allows for more room in the cockpit. It also makes a great swim platform in lieu of a transom swim platform that is not possible with outboards. Nifty, but I was a bit surprised that the terrace support lines had no chaff protection where they bent around the fibreglass bulwarks.

As with other outboard powered Jeanneau’s, the transom bench seat slides forward to allow the engines to be tilted free of the water. In addition to the ladder to the flybridge and

the folding cockpit table (which can be lowered to become a sunpad), the three-panel saloon door can slide out of the way to starboard. This opens the aft galley to the cockpit, where a hinged counter flips up to serve as a galley pass-through and serving counter. Removable cockpit carpets make for added comfort. One advantage of outboards is that they allow for the very large storage area under the cockpit sole where inboard engines would normally be mounted. The seat cushions have unique sliding, push-button catches to anchor them to their bases. They seem to be a good idea as normal metal snaps never seem to stand the test of time. Overhead, an electric sliding sun awning provides protection

from rain and sun.

I like the raised bulwarks with handrails that make for secure passage fore and aft. The cabin is asymmetrical, with the starboard walkway a generous 18 inches (46 centimetres) wide, while the portside is only 7.5 inches (19 centimetres) making the former the obvious passage of choice. Three sunpads with backrests offer tons of room in the bow area while two upholstered seats to either side of the anchor gear offer additional seating forward of a spacious footwell.

FLYBRIDGE

The flybridge helm station is fronted by a sunpad area and a double companion seat which can flip aft to provide additional dinette

Lagoon 42 Catamaran

Delta Pacific 52

seating. It can also lay flat to make an enormous sunpad area. I’m seeing more and more flybridge yachts with sunpads in front of the helm. Initially I was concerned about the helm being so far aft that visibility ahead would suffer, especially when coming onto the plane, but that hasn’t proven a problem to date. However, it is something to check out when considering a flybridge yacht. Aft of the helm area is a cosy U-shaped lounge with table. A folding Bimini top provides overhead protection for those on the flybridge while a drawer fridge and optional outdoor kitchen provides easy access to beverages and such.

SALOON The layout of the saloon makes good use of the space, with the galley aft to port and extra counterspace to starboard of the entrance. Forward, a U-shaped dining area can seat

six around a table which can be lowered to provide an additional berth. There is no companion seat, which is a bit of a disappointment. A hinged flat panel built into the portside of the dash is designed for a TV. Tall, expansive windows bring in plenty of light to brighten up the saloon and a sliding portside window provides additional ventilation, though the 32,000 btu reverse cycle air system provides both heat and cooling. Cabinetry is a blend of light coloured horizontally grained, engineered wood and gloss white for the overhead storage units. The soles are a darker engineered wood. Upholstery is white as are the solid surface countertops.

The portside U-shaped aft galley is compact but certainly workable. Features include a double sink, 110-volt electric cooktop and an under-counter microwave. Across the saloon entrance

to starboard are two stacked drawer fridge/freezer units and ample counter space for food prep. As noted, with the saloon doors stowed to starboard, a hinged countertop flips up and the galley becomes a pass-through to the cockpit with a large serving area. Galley storage is mostly in overhead cabinets, though an ample locker under the galley sole provides more space. One would likely have to run the 7.5 kW Onan generator when cooking. Because the engines are gasoline and the Onan requires diesel, a separate 13-gallon (49-litre) diesel tank fuels the generator.

A wide helm seat faces the nicely laid out console and can be swivelled to face the dinette. While the 16-inch Garmin chart plotter was not yet installed, the digital Yamaha readouts were enough to give us the necessary speed, rpm and fuel numbers. Yamaha’s optional joystick control was mounted in front of the dual throttles and shifters. A bow thruster, Lenco electric trim tabs and the Yamaha autopilot provide additional control. A surprisingly large sliding door provides quick access to the side decks to make for easy line handling.

ACCOMMODATION

Jeanneau has managed to fit three cabins and two heads below while maintaining a good flow throughout the accommodation area. The island master in the bow has an en suite with separate shower. Overhead lockers and hanging lockers provide adequate storage, though I would have liked to see some fiddles on the shelves to either side of the bed. The two guest cabins are tucked partially under the saloon and separated by the companionway. Each comes with a hull window with an opening port and two singles which can slide together as doubles. Both cabins share the second head, which is also the day head, and it too has a small separate shower. Due to very light core material

Peter A. Robson

WESTERN CANADA’S LARGEST BOAT SHOW

PRESENTS

JANUARY 31 –

FEBRUARY 4, 2024

BC PLACE & GRANVILLE ISLAND

and veneers, the doors, drawers, cupboards and cabinets are surprisingly light. This is because Jeanneau has engineered and designed its yachts to be light, in part, to reach high speeds while maintaining a comparably low price point. I found the fit and finish to be about an eight out of 10—no major issues, but it wasn’t on par with the higher end builders. I also have a pet peeve about creaky floorboards, and the Jeanneau—like many of its rivals—has several.

UNDERWAY In a triple outboard arrangement, the Yamaha joystick works in conjunction with all three engines while the bow thruster works independently of the joystick. Yamaha’s impressive Helm Master EX integrated Joystick and autopilot system has some amazing and unique functions— too many to list here, but the Yamaha website has some great descriptions on how they all work and many of the features will prove especially helpful when fishing. Once configured, the automatic trim assist function takes the guesswork out of setting the engine trim for optimum performance.

The dual engine controls are also interesting in that when either the right or left control is engaged, the corresponding engine is engaged. When both throttles/shifters are engaged at once, all three engines are engaged.

UNDERWAY with Milltown broker Michael Brown, the current was ebbing while a 15-knot southwester was blowing up the strait, raising a twofoot swell topped by a confusing chop. It was a delight to be able to test a yacht in something other than calm seas. The downside was that the wind and swells made it pretty-well impossible to establish accurate fuel and speed numbers, even though we ran reciprocal directions to try to counteract those effects. The triple outboards got us onto the plane in a speedy four seconds with little bow rise. At 3,000 rpm, we were making 17 knots and burning 19 gallons per hour (73 litres per hour). Interior noise at this speed was a reasonable 62 dB. A good cruising speed proved to be between 25 and just over 30 knots, with rpms between 4,000 and 4,500 and fuel burns between 25 gph (94.5 lph) and 42 gph

(159 lph). We tested the stability of the 1295 by running several courses: motoring directly into the waves, beam to the seas, quartering to the seas and running directly downwind. The 1295 handled it all very well and we had a lot of fun surfing down the waves while not skewing sideways or beings rolled uncomfortably. Top speed in the calmer waters of the river, was close to 40 knots at 5,700 rpm— which is pretty darn fast.

CONCLUDING REMARKS Despite a couple of criticisms, the 1295 Fly offers a lot in a compact package and is one of the fastest flybridge offerings in its size range. All in all, the 1295 performed well, all equipment worked well and it would make a good inshore cruiser in our waters. Price as tested with many options: $1.2 million.

LOA 12.56 m / 41' 2"

Hull length 11.92 m / 39' 1"

Beam 3.8 m / 12' 6"

Draft 0.76 m / 2' 6"

Dry weight 8,181 kg / 18,036 lbs

Fuel 1,174 L / 310 USG

Water 400 L / 106 USG

Holding 120 L / 32 USG

Built by Jeanneau (in Poland) Jeanneau.com

Sold in BC by Milltown Marina Vancouver 604-269-9516

Sold in Washington by Sundance Yacht Sales Blaine, Seattle 206-633-2850

Peter A. Robson

Since 1957, M & P has guided boaters through the adventure of boat ownership in beautiful BC. With certified professional yacht brokers, an award-winning service department, and an exclusive Owners Club with special events, we invite you to discover your dream boat with us.

HAVE A BOAT TO SELL?

M & P provides quality Yacht Brokerage services and also takes trades.

We’ll give you excellent value and the assurance provided by our team of professionals, including Certified Professional Yacht Brokers.

Experience the power of the M & P brand when you entrust your yacht to us at the M & P Yacht Centre. Tap into the recognition and strength of the M & P legacy, where you can access an extensive international brokerage network built over 66 years. As our brokerage client, you benefit from the skills, experience, and expertise of our Sales & Marketing team. Our trustworthy, certified brokers with unmatched industry knowledge provide personalized brokerage services for buyers and sellers.

Discover how our expansive network, brand position, global reach, and unparalleled marketing strategies are designed to create the highest demand for your yacht.

2018|BOSTONWHALER285CONQUEST|$340,000CAD KOLBY VAUGHAN | 236.888.5544

2015 | REGAL 280 EXPRESS | $140,000 CAD KOLBY VAUGHAN | 236.888.5544

2014 | PURSUIT 285 OFFSHORE | $179,000 CAD KOLBY VAUGHAN | 236.888.5544

2013 | 28’ SEA RAY 280 SUNDANCER | $99,500 CAD KOLBY VAUGHAN | 236.888.5544

NEW | BOSTON WHALER 285 PILOTHOUSE AVAILABLE NOW | 604.692.0333

2020 | RIVER HAWK 28 SH | $335,000 CAD GERRY ALLIN | 604.790.2939

2019|BOSTONWHALER315CONQUEST|$459,000CAD GERRY ALLIN | 604.790.2939

2006 | SEA RAY 290 AMBERJACK | $75,000 CAD GERRY ALLIN | 604.790.2939

RIVIERA

- This high performance cruiser has a comfortable 3-cabin layout with room for your whole family to explore the coast! Highly optioned, this yacht is a must see! $1,499,000

SALE PENDING

SISTERSHIP

NAVIGATOR 48, 2006 - This Navigator is clean, highly upgraded with new electronics, hurricane heat, water maker, and so much more. Ready to cruise!

$530,000 CAD

Volvo 480hp diesels. $325,000 USD

- An exquisitely detailed west coast pilothouse, launched in 2020. Finest of materials used throughout inc. double planked red cedar/ epoxy hull. RAIN BEAR is a true gem that must be seen! NOW $329,000 CAD

GARTSIDE

• Fully equipped

• Lithium ion batteries

• Low hours

• Volvo shaft driven,

• 17” Garmin screens and much more.

• Boathouse kept (available)

• NO Luxury Tax

$1,259,000 USD

OCEAN YACHTS 56 1990 - Spacious main salon, large cockpit, 3 staterooms, centre console dingy.

CAD

LIQUID METAL MARINE QUATSINO 24’ 2021- Beautiful custom aluminum DC bowrider designed by Greg Marshal, launched in 2022. Volvo D4-270,16” Simrad Nevo multi-function, removable hardtop, Shockwave seats, enclosed head. $299,000 CAD

TOLLYCRAFT 43’ TRI-CABIN 1984 - Boathouse kept (boathouse available), twin diesel, generator, diesel furnace, water maker and new flybridge enclosure! $249,000 CAD

41’ BRUCE KING “WARM RAIN II” - A masterpiece of design and function. New sails / fresh engine. Cold molded construction with the finest of materials used throughout. AND, She sails like a dream. Priced to sell at $295,000 CAD (by appt.)

CARVER 466 MOTOR YACHT, 2004 - Tastefully upgraded, boathouse kept, and just 886 hours on her

MARITIMO S62 2015

JEANNEAU 30 NC 895, 2022 - Save on ordering a new one - fully loaded with Garmin electronics, fusion sound system, forced air heating, and a Westerbeke 3.5 KVA generator. $229,000 USD

5800 SPORT YACHT, 2013

37 PILOTHOUSE 2020

SEA RAY SUNDANCER 390 2005Fitted with twin Cummins QSB 380hp diesels, upgraded Raymarine electronics, and electric bow thruster, this boathouse kept vessel is a must see! By appointment. $299,000 CAD

JEANNEAU 409 2013Local vessel, fully equipped for coastal cruising New listing – please inquire.

BAYLINER 3988 1995Boathouse kept, Excellent shape, Updated electronics $174,000

CATALINA 380 1997New mainsail, updated electronics, cockpit enclosure and much more. $ 129,900

TRUE NORTH 38Alaskan Bulkhead, Yanmar diesel, Bow thruster, diesel heat, and much more $395,000

SEA SPORT 2400 2008Alaskan Bulkhead, Trailer, Volvo Penta 5.7 GI 300, and much more. $127,500

KINGFISHER 3025, 2019 - This Kingfisher comes fully loaded with twin Yamaha 250’s, trolling kicker, comfortable enclosed cabin and an espar diesel heater. $289,000 CAD

LIST YOUR VESSEL WITH US. WE HAVE TWO HIGH VISIBILITY SALES DOCKS

1997 FARR 60 PILOTHOUSE ASKING $443,500 USD

2021 BAVARIA R40 COUPE ASKING $845,000

2002 FORMULA 400SS ASKING $135,000

2007 EAGLECRAFT 33 CRUISER $199,000 USD

2011 AMEL 54 ASKING $780,000

SEA RAY 450 EXPRESS

27' RANGER TUGS R-27

33' GRADY WHITE

25' SEA RAY

31' FORMULA

33' LARSON 42' CUSTOM

35' C&C

32' HUNTER

33' FOUNTAIN 28' CUTWATER

24' JEANNEAU

31' TIARA

39' TIARA COUPE

22' DEFIANCE

22' HEWESCRAFT

37' RAFIKI

37' BENETEAU

EXPERIENCE THE EXCEPTIONAL PRINCESS

S72

Dynamic extended styling lines synonymous with the Princess S Class define the S72. Equipped with twin MAN V12 engines at 1650 or 1800 horsepower and a resin-infused deep-V hull, she delivers dynamic performance and smooth handling at speeds of up to 36 knots.

Princess S72

Princess Range

THE AXOPAR 45 IS SETTING A NEW GENRE FOR FAST COMMUTINGIN COMFORT & STYLE.

Greg Andrew, CPYB

Yacht Broker & New Sales gandrew@vanislemarina.com

Adam Pedersen

Yacht Broker & New Sales apedersen@vanislemarina.com

Nynke Plouffe

Yacht Sales Coordinator nplouffe@vanislemarina.com

Sidney, BC | 250 656 1138

vanislemarina.com

Beautifully finished interior, Massive upper Deck, Expansive covered Cockpit, Three station helm control, Twin Volvo Diesel, Northern Lights Genset, Watermaker, Large swim grid with Seawise Davit system, Sat Dome, Raymarine Hybrid Touch, Hurricane Hydronic Heat

Perfectly suited for Coastal Cruising $460,000 USD

This Well Equipped Yacht has ample room to Live and Entertain Autopilot, Bow Thruster, A/C Heat, 20 KW Genset, Cameras... Too many features to list! See videos on Yachtworld Contact Larry Thompson to view. $450,000 CAD

Stunning Hanse with meticulous owners!

Owner has a custom King size bed in master plus two staterooms

Upgraded electrical system, Victron Energy with Smart Control Dual steering, 53 HP Volvo engine, Lewmar bow thruster Contact Larry Thompson to view $419,900

40 COASTAL CRAFT

62 KHA SHING

44 HANSE

BUYING OR SELLING?

Sellers and buyers both benefit from a BCYCA member’s experience. BCYBA brokers assist buyers to find suitable boats in the local market or further afield in the international market. Similarly, they present locally owned boats for sale to local and international buyers.

Take the stress out of purchasing or selling your boat. A BCYBA broker is your guide through a successful transaction. They help in these ways:

• Identify and evaluate yachts of interest.

• Provide experience in negotiating acceptable sale terms.

• Ensure your deposit stays in Canada.

• Outline vessel documentation, title, importation, insurance and taxation issues.

• Utilize strong working relationships with co-operating brokers, marine surveyors, marine mechanics, boatyards and other key industry contacts.

• Provide local follow up to help you in your boating adventures.

You won’t believe you are living off the grid in this 2,160 sq. ft., 4 bedroom, 2 bath full basement home on 1.67 acres with 210 ft oceanfront. Thermador kitchen, fenced gardens, orchard, greenhouse, outdoor kitchen and shower, Wi-Fi and TV. It is perfect for indoor and outdoor living. Airstrip, marina and island caretaker. $2,495,000

RICHARD OSBORNE

Personal Real Estate Corporation

604-328-0848 rich@landquest.com

TROPHY WEST COAST OCEANFRONT PROPERTY - GABRIOLA ISLAND, BC

Sprawling 6 acre oceanfront estate on Gabriola Island with 1,400 ft shoreline. 4,105 sq. ft. West Coast Style home features floor to cathedral ceiling windows with ocean views. Foreshore Lease for dock. 2 other garage / workshops with indoor parking for 20+ cars, RVs, boats. $2,990,000

SAM HODSON

Personal Real Estate Corporation

604-809-2616 sam@landquest.com

10.55 ACRE OCEANFRONT ESTATE IN TELESCOPE PASSAGE ON HARDY ISLAND

This offering comprises two spectacular oceanfront lots, each with a private dock and drilled well, allowing for two homes per lot. Includes a private beach and RV for living during construction. It’s an ideal opportunity for a private estate or group purchase. $1,499,999

JAMIE ZROBACK 1-604-483-1605 jamie@landquest.com

JASON ZROBACK 1-604-414-5577 jason@landquest.com

BC LANDPRO GROUP

SLAM BANG LODGE - THE ULTIMATE WEST COAST FISHING LOCATION

World class salmon and bottom fishing within a 10 minute boat ride. This floating lodge is located on Union Island in Kyuquot Sound. Includes 4 guest rooms, 3 bedroom cabin, large dining room, outdoor kitchen area and fish processing facility catering to guests and other lodges. $995,000

GROUP

30 ACRES - CACHALOT INLET WEST COAST VANCOUVER ISLAND

30 acres with 2,000 ft of oceanfront and 300 ft beach in Cachalot Inlet, Kyuquot Sound an awesome West Coast Vancouver Island location for fishing camp or private retreat near BC’s best fishing, surfing, and kayaking, building site and road from beach cleared. $600,000

RICHARD OSBORNE

Personal Real Estate Corporation 604-328-0848 rich@landquest.com

KOOTENAY LAKE WATERFRONT HOME AND BEACH HOUSE - NELSON, BC

Welcome to waterfront living! This 2.27 acre property has an extensive sandy beach and private dock. The beach house, carriage home, 3 RV hookups, massive workshop garage, large Quonset, and securely gated perimeter provide privacy, respite and fun! $1,995,000

JOHN ARMSTRONG

Personal Real Estate Corporation 250-307-2100 john@landquest.com

BASECAMP DESOLATION SOUND STRATA LOT 26 WILDERNESS

5 acre wilderness lot located at the gateway to Desolation Sound, minutes to Lund on the Sunshine Coast. Road accessible with power available. No building permit process required. Limited availability with only 4 lots being released in this second phase. $399,000

JASON ZROBACK 1-604-414-5577 jason@landquest.com

JAMIE ZROBACK 1-604-483-1605 jamie@landquest.com

BC LANDPRO GROUP

AWESOME SIDNEY ISLAND OCEANFRONT

Very special 2.42 acres, 291 ft east facing oceanfront, incredible sunrises, sunsets bathe the view in splendid light. Beautifully treed with fir, cedar and arbutus, shared well excellent building sites. Communal dock and breakwater, airstrip, swimming pond, miles of roads trails, beaches and island caretaker. $528,000

RICHARD OSBORNE

Personal Real Estate Corporation

604-328-0848 rich@landquest.com

LAKEFRONT PROPERTY WITH TWO CABINS, SAUNA AND SPECTACULAR VIEWS

3.26 acre, south facing, lakefront property on Nimpo Lake. Meticulously maintained, fully serviced property with a cabin and second dwelling above the shop. Must see property in an excellent location with great income potential, year-round road access and endless outdoor recreation. $429,000

FAWN GUNDERSON

Personal Real Estate Corporation 250-982-2314 fawn@landquest.com

CUSTOM TIMBER FRAME HOME ON 12 ACRES - DE COURCY ISLAND

Live your dream in this 1,800 sq. ft. 3 bedroom timber frame home on 12 treed acres on west side of De Courcy Island. Includes large workshop, gardening area, pond and drilled well. Fully modern off the grid systems assure trouble free home comforts. Don’t miss this rare opportunity! NOW $729,000

JASON ZROBACK 1-604-414-5577 jason@landquest.com

JAMIE ZROBACK 1-604-483-1605 jamie@landquest.com

BC LANDPRO GROUP

SPECIAL SIDNEY ISLAND OCEANFRONT SOUTHERN GULF ISLANDS

Garden

a private & licensed dock. This luxurious home with over 5,000 sq.ft. of living space boasts every imaginable feature. The epitome of comfort & style.

Secret Cove • $5,980,000

Low bank waterfront property at ‘Whittakers at Pender Harbour’! This is one of BC’s finest waterfront communities offering private, protected deep water moorage. Garden Bay • $699,000

Rare combination of sun drenched South-West facing waterfront with year round, protected deep water moorage. Situated on the prime point in Secret Cove with stunning ocean/island views & sunset.

Halfmoon Bay • $2,950,000

“Quarrybbean”

Custom built 3bed/2bath West Coast cottage, situated on early 50 acres of prime level waterfront in Blind Bay, Hardy Island boasting 1,000’ of pristine oceanfront. Hardy Island • $2,500,000

Joel O’Reilly Personal Real Estate Corporations

One of the rarest & most unique waterfront estates to be offered for sale on the Sunshine Coast. Ultra private 17 acres with 2 homes, 1,000’ of pristine shoreline and protected deep water moorage with 2 docks & a boathouse. Secret Cove • $3,495,000

This 4bed/3bath waterfront home features breathtaking ocean & island views & sunny Southern exposure, as well as protected deep water moorage with a 75’ dock & boathouse. A rare package! Garden Bay • $2,399,000

This 2.16 acre waterfront property features a super cute low-bank beach cottage with a 50’ licensed foreshore. Sub-dividable, gorgeous ocean views and prime location. Madeira Park • $1,490,000

One of the most spectacular waterfront properties on the West Coast of B.C. 20 acres, 3,000’ of shoreline, a stunning home & protected deep water moorage at your private dock. Nelson Island • $5,600,000

Beautiful ocean views are featured from this “like new” 3 bedroom/2 bath waterfront modular home. Ideally situated to allow for a primary residence in front, on the oceanfront side. Halfmoon Bay • $999,000

Gorgeous esplanade waterfront property with unobstructed ocean views. Close to several marinas, the ocean, lakes & hiking. A beautiful building site for your future home! Garden Bay • $799,000

Custom built in 2020 this luxurious waterfront residence is nestled on a 4.94 acre estate property with stunning panoramic ocean & island views. Gibsons • $3,688,000

Gorgeous Timber Frame waterfront home with 3 separate living areas - the main space, a penthouse suite & a Carriage House Suite above the double garage. Sechelt • $2,000,000

West Coast waterfront retreat - 1.77 acres with beautiful ocean views in a lush forested setting with a brand new, contemporary high end cottage.

Bay • $1,190,000

an exceptional lifestyle retreat, 2.5 acres of spectacular waterfront on Nelson Island w/2 solar powered buildings. Nelson Island • $2,198,000

Premier waterfront residence w/

This is the one! Quintessential Roberts Creek low-bank waterfront Beach House with a stylish open concept living space, 138ft of frontage w/unobstructed ocean views & direct access to a fabulous swimming beach. Roberts Creek • $3,795,000

10 Acre Legacy Property, Saunders Island, Bella Bella, BC

Private retreat in the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest. On the Inside Passage, minutes from daily flights to Vancouver & BC Ferry to Port Hardy or Prince Rupert. Waterfront residence, bighouse with commercial kitchen, 2 guest cabins, hilltop lodge, steward’s cabin and outbuildings, ample fresh water, 1.4 km of well-established roads, 200’ dock space, off grid solar, diesel backup, all furnishings and maintenance equipment included. $4,400,000 Email: saunders.island.mgt@gmail.com www.oceantribecharters.com

SALT SPRING ISLAND

www. BC Ocean front.com

1-888-286-1932

DL 6, Noeick River: 178

1-888-286-1932

DL 6, Noeick River: 178 acres, ocean and riverfront south of Bella Coola, at the mouth of the Noeick River

DL 6, Noeick River: 178 acres, ocean and riverfront south of Bella Coola, at the mouth of the Noeick River

Potentially harvestable 2nd growth spruce on a portion of the property. Completely off grid. In the Great Bear Rainforest , on the BC Coast $850,000

: Resort opportunity! 8 acre oceanfront resort north of Resort facilities include a main lodge, cabins and modern suites, offering a comfortable nature get-away. Road-access, off-grid resort with excellent power system.

Orca Inn, Alert Bay: Inn and restaurant/pub with lots of potential! Commercial kitchen, 3 rental units plus self-contained manager’s suite, retail space. Region renowned for whale watching, fishing and First Nations cultural activities. $600,000 West Coast Oceanfront:

Potentially harvestable 2nd growth spruce on a portion of the property. Completely off grid. In the Great Bear Rainforest , on the BC Coast $850,000

West Coast Oceanfront: 3.56 acres in the Hot Springs

Oceanside development north of Tofino on Vancouver Island’s west coast. Nicely forested, diverse shoreline including a peninsula and bay. Protected location,

DL1489 Jackson Bay: Group purchase opportunity! 33.7 acre oceanfront property in in Johnstone Strait. Residential and commercial zoning. Multiple dwellings, workshop and outbuildings, moorage and substantial infrastructure. $1,395,000

Orca Inn, Alert Bay: Inn and restaurant/pub with lots of potential! Commercial kitchen, 3 rental units plus self-contained manager’s suite, retail space. Region renowned for whale watching, fishing and First Nations cultural activities. $600,000

Centre Island : 110 acre private island in Esperanza Inlet, west coast Vancouver Island. Numerous little bays, peninsulas, and bluffs. Oneroom cabin plus workshop, fresh water ponds, complement of equipment. Quick access to the open west coast! $1,790,000 The BC

Orca Inn, Alert Bay: Inn and restaurant/pub with lots of potential! Commercial kitchen, 3 rental units plus self-contained manager’s suite, retail space. Region renowned for whale watching, fishing and First Nations cultural activities. $600,000

110 acre private island in Esperanza , west coast Vancouver . Numerous little bays, peninsulas, and bluffs. Oneroom cabin plus workshop, fresh water ponds, complement of equipment. Quick access to the open west coast! $1,790,000

acre highbank oceanfront lot at the south end of acre development offering standing forest, beautiful pastoral land, a valley ravine and a secluded beach. $731,000

QUADRA ISLAND REAL ESTATE TEAM

PERSONAL REAL

Sarah Bradshaw

QUADRA ISLAND REAL ESTATE TEAM

QUADRA ISLAND REAL ESTATE TEAM

QUADRA ISLAND

Are you ready for island time?

Are you ready for island time?

Bill Bradshaw

PERSONAL REAL ESTATE CORPORATION

Sarah Bradshaw

Sarah Bradshaw

AFFORDABLE GRANITE BAY ACREAGE

AFFORDABLE GRANITE BAY ACREAGE

•6.5 acre lot located on northwest corner of Quadra Island•Comes with driveway into property, drilled well and hydro services to property line•In an area with great outdoor recreation: hiking, kayaking, sports fishing•Community wharf and boat ramp minutes away•Located 20 minutes from services in Heriot Bay

•6.5 acre lot located on northwest corner of Quadra Island•Comes with driveway into property, drilled well and hydro services to property line•In an area with great outdoor recreation: hiking, kayaking, sports fishing•Community wharf and boat ramp minutes away•Located 20 minutes from services in Heriot Bay

MLS # 398896 • $139,000

MLS # 398896 • $139,000

QUATHIASKI COVE OCEANVIEW RANCHER & RENTAL TRAILER

QUATHIASKI COVE OCEANVIEW RANCHER & RENTAL TRAILER

•Great ocean views of Quathiaski Cove and Discovery

AFFORDABLE GRANITE BAY ACREAGE

AFFORDABLE GRANITE BAY ACREAGE

Heriot Bay rancher, cabin/workshop & double garage on 1.16 acres, in a great central location!

•6.5 acre lot located on northwest corner of Quadra Island•Comes with driveway into property, drilled well and hydro services to property line•In an area with great outdoor recreation: hiking, kayaking, sports fishing•Community wharf and boat ramp minutes away•Located 20 minutes from services in Heriot Bay

MLS # 398896 • $139,000

•6.5 acre lot located on northwest corner of Quadra Island•Comes with driveway into property, drilled well and hydro services to property line•In an area with great outdoor recreation: hiking, kayaking, sports fishing•Community wharf and boat ramp minutes away•Located 20 minutes from services in Heriot Bay MLS # 398896 • $139,000

QUATHIASKI COVE OCEANVIEW RANCHER & RENTAL TRAILER

QUATHIASKI COVE OCEANVIEW RANCHER & RENTAL TRAILER

•Great ocean views of Quathiaski Cove and Discovery

Passage•Rancher is at foot of 0.41 acre lot next to ferry to Campbell River• Mature shrubs provide lots of privacy along front of home• Up the hill is a 2 bed room trailer currently rented out to long-term tenant

DL364 Whiterock Pass

•Great ocean views of Quathiaski Cove and Discovery

•Shor t walk from all services in Quathiaski Cove

Passage•Rancher is at foot of 0.41 acre lot next to ferry to Campbell River• Mature shrubs provide lots of privacy along front of home• Up the hill is a 2 bed room trailer currently rented out to long-term tenant

MLS# 398397 • $249,000

guest cabin & workshop situated on a 22 acre oceanfront

•Shor t walk from all services in Quathiaski Cove

MLS# 398397 • $249,000

DL364 Whiterock Pass Maurelle Island off-grid home, guest cabin & workshop situated on a 22 acre oceanfront property! Incredible views across Whiterock Pass to Read

Passage•Rancher is at foot of 0.41 acre lot next to ferry to Campbell River• Mature shrubs provide lots of privacy along front of home• Up the hill is a 2 bed room trailer currently rented out to long-term tenant

•Shor t walk from all services in Quathiaski Cove

MLS# 398397 • $249,000

•Great ocean views of Quathiaski Cove and Discovery Passage•Rancher is at foot of 0.41 acre lot next to ferry to Campbell River• Mature shrubs provide lots of privacy along front of home• Up the hill is a 2 bed room trailer currently rented out to long-term tenant •Shor t walk from all services in Quathiaski Cove MLS# 398397 • $249,000

Quadra Island craftsman home, guest cabin & garage on peaceful 5 acres!

billbradshaw@royallepage.ca

sarahbradshaw@royallepage.ca

billbradshaw@royallepage.ca | sarahbradshaw@royallepage.ca

billbradshaw@royallepage.ca sarahbradshaw@royallepage.ca www.quadrarealestate.ca

billbradshaw@royallepage.ca

www.quadrarealestate.ca

sarahbradshaw@royallepage.ca

www.quadrarealestate.ca

billbradshaw@royallepage.ca

www.quadrarealestate.ca

sarahbradshaw@royallepage.ca

billbradshaw@royallepage.ca | sarahbradshaw@royallepage.ca

www.quadrarealestate.ca

www.quadrarealestate.ca

property! Incredible views across Whiterock Pass to Read Island and a newer commercial grade wharf.

Quadra Island oceanfront rancher & two guest cabins on 2.3 acres, overlooking Sutil Channel on the east side of the island!

681 Bull Rd. Oceanfront family home in the heart of Heriot Bay with 150 feet of walk on ocean frontage & views across Heriot Bay to Open Bay & beyond to the mainland mountains!

675 Cove Cres. Brand new built Quathiaski Cove home! This 1,440 sq ft two level turnkey home was constructed by reputable local builders, J

Island and a newer commercial grade wharf.

DL24 Schooner Rd.

Bay acreage! This 11.29 acre property has preliminary approval in place for a 3 lot subdivision & is in a great walkable location in Heriot Bay on Quadra Island.

1527 Heriot Bay Rd

Unique Experiences in Amazing Places

SCHEDULED

Up to 32 Flights Daily to Nanaimo and the Gulf Islands from Vancouver

BRING IN YOUR UPHOLSTERY AT THE END OF THIS SEASON AND WE WILL STORE AND HAVE IT READY FOR NEXT SPRING

WE ALSO DO CUSTOM

WE ALSO DO CUSTOM

PRICE: $39,999

This is may be the nicest and most fully outfitted 21’ Monaro you’ll ever find. It underwent a factory refit in 2019 and even included new gel coat. This proven hull dominates big ocean waters and we have recently enjoyed trips on the West Coast of Vancouver Island and an 1100 mile return trip from Vancouver to Ocean Falls and all points in between. This boat has been fully equipped for day trips, watersports, fishing, overnighting and extended cruising. It performs perfectly with the lightweight and efficient 200 Merc Optimax. This motor has been used on Offshore fishing boats for years and is tried and tested. It has variable oil and fuel injection and only has 242 hrs on it. It has been lovingly maintained and looks new. Includes a new, double axel, galvanized trailer.

The Basics: Moored in fresh water

• Seasonal winterization (incl. winter wrap)

• Camper back canvas

• Spare stainless steel prop

• Pump out toilet

• Sink and large freshwater tank

• Raw water washdown

• Aerated live well w/ raw water intake

• Endless storage

• Swim ladder

• Downrigger mounts

New Equipment (2020-2021) and Updates Include: Garmin 7000 digital GPS

• VHF

• Chrome Steering Wheel

• Fridge

• 150 watt solar panel

• Dual batteries

• All upholstery

•

Rear convenience table (which holds a 2 burner stove)

• Rear sleeper seat/bench

• Towing/ radar arch

• Protective hull wrap

• Anchor & chain

• Paddleboard Rack

• LED cabin lighting

• Slopeback canvas for storage and towing

Contact info and more pictures: text 250-717-6722 email dgilchrist@kelowna.ca

43' Hans Christian Ketch (1979)

2006 Carver 444 CMY, BOW & STERN THRUSTERS, LOW HOUR

2004

1969 32’ Grand Banks Trawler

maker, Full Garmin Pack, Downriggers, AC/ Heat, Beautiful “Nautilus’ Interior - Save Over New!

CAD

$192,000 CAD

2005 Hunter 41DS (Deck Salon), WOW! Fantastic layout, HUGE SALON, Two Private cabins with ensuite heads, Yanmar, Deluxe Full Enclosure, Power Main Winch, SS Davits W/ Rib Tender Package - Great Alaska Vessel!

35’ Maxum 3500 SY

De Groot Marine Surveyors

and loosely attached itself to my nose. As my hands were occupied unscrewing the pump bolts, terrific was not my first choice of words as scenes from the horror movie Alien came to mind. At least I did not snap back violently and dent the back of my cranium on the V8 hovering ominously behind me.

Note to self: Always secure loose hoses with a bungee cord.

As echoes of blue language seeped out of the blower motor intake pipes, I was further reminded of my wife’s cousin who after similar tortuous gymnastics found his macerator plugged with cherry pits!

Note to self: Do not serve cherries to guests as some consume them whole.

The drama continues unabated. “Well honey, we might as well do a deep black tank purge before heading out tomorrow.” In goes Tank Blaster Super Concentrated Enzymatic Blend (cherry scent) with a water hose fill up. Our dead of night peaceful sleep was punctured by my wife’s harpoonlike bony elbow to the ribs, “What is that sound?” Indeed, eerie growls reminiscent of an exorcism were emanating from the Jabsco complete with undulating foam. Revenge for years of abuse? The cherry scent did not mollify the situation as the grunting, howling and squeaks tickled our weary ears. Must we find a crucifix to quell the gathering storm or worse? “The priest will arrive in two weeks and will charge $198 an hour.”

PS. The purge didn’t actually make that much noise but I kind of wish it had.

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“Sh*t!” What else can one say when your wife complains the normally trusty Jabsco manual marine toilet has stopped flushing? The onboard handy-man husband confidently predicts, “Surely the flexible ‘snake’ will get things moving again.” Nope. Defeated. On bended knees within

Black Tank Blues

BY JEFF KURYK

Sthe confines of the fragrant, steaming head one reluctantly admits it’s time to plunge into the fiscal black hole of professional marine plumbing services. The youthful perky service manager coos brightly, “We can schedule you in two weeks and we charge $198 an hour.” Perfect July days pass and the dreaded phone call finally arrives with a grim diagnosis. “The hose from your toilet to the black tank has herniated under your bed and is stuck. We’ll have to saw through the fibreglass floor to remove it and it will take us a couple of days.” $2,300 later all is well in the sanitation department though the same cannot be said about

the monetary department. The fiscal sting prompts previous plumbing debacles to ooze into the mind. First, when my blessed macerator broke down. I had wedged myself semi-vertically so deep in the bowels of my 28-foot Maxum cuddy cabin cruiser I feared my wife or the fire department would have to extricate me with a come-a-long attached to my ankles. “Hello 911? My husband is stuck…” Ignominy incarnate. Adding wretched drama to the scene the recently disconnected outflow hose from the black tank stealthily crept out of the gloom

Continued on page 113

Mike Mockford

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