Pacific Yachting - November 2022

Canal Du Midi One Week in the South of France Cascadia C ruise Managing a Medical Emergency

THE MANY ISLANDS OF HAKAI Cruising the Central Coast Part 3 By Bill Kelly and Anne Vipond

FRANCE’S CANAL DU MIDI Cruising for cuisine and crusader history in the South of France By Diane Selkirk

CASCADIA CRUISE A relaxing journey takes an abrupt turn after a medical emergency on board

By Marianne Scott

COMMERCIAL ANCHORAGES IN THE SALISH SEA If it seems like there are more freighters in BC waters recently—there

By Diane Selkirk

PASSAGES

Freighter Traffic

In this issue, Diane Selkirk once again tackles a challenging issue. In August it was wrecked and abandoned boats, and this month it’s freighters invading the Gulf Islands (page 52).

Anyone who has cruised through Trincomali Channel or Captain Passage, or anywhere in the Gulf Islands lately, has likely seen these cargo-heavy or cargo-ready behemoths—and if you think you’re seeing more of them lately, well, that’s because you probably are.

I started noticing them when I was travelling to Saturna Island regularly a few years ago. ere were always at least two anchored in Plumper Sound, between Saturna and Pender islands. It seemed like an odd place for a freighter anchorage. ese ships started popping up everywhere in the Gulf Islands and a er a while, they started to blend into the background. But of course, they are more than just images on the horizon, they are known to negatively impact local wildlife and their presence can create potentially catastrophic consequences should an accident occur. e risks are real.

On the other hand, we all rely on the steady stream of goods moving through our busy ports. It’s critical to our economy and it’s how we maintain our lifestyles. It’s easy to say these freighters should move somewhere else, but where? ose accidents that would have major consequences in the Gulf Islands will have the same disas-

trous results wherever they occur. e Port of Vancouver is full, with backlogs becoming the norm. If you race on Wednesday nights out of RVYC or WVYC you’ve likely sailed around these hulking ships. If you’ve motored out of Burrard Inlet headed north to Desolation Sound or beyond, you’ve probably noticed them too.

It’s easy to say, “not in my backyard” and call for banning freighters in the Gulf Islands, but it’s more challenging to o er viable alternatives. e Vessel Arrival System, which Diane lays out in her article, is one such alternative. Rather than rushing to arrive in BC waters and then waiting for their time in port, these ships can plan their arrival to more accurately coincide with loading or unloading cargo. It seems simple enough—less time waiting around is good for everyone—although I’m sure there are other global factors involved.

I don’t claim to have the answers, but I certainly think it’s worth asking the questions, and passing the buck to other jurisdictions doesn’t seem like the answer at all.

I expect we will receive letters on this issue, as we did on the issue of abandoned boats and the proposed fees around vessel registration, but we welcome all perspectives (so long as they’re constructive). Hopefully the system will improve and our beloved cruising ground will have fewer freighters in the future. In the meantime, give these ships some space, especially if you’re racing.

–Sam Burkhart

THE AFTERGUARD

EDITOR

Sam Burkhart editor@pacificyachting.com

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ADVENTURE

Days off are best spent with sandy feet and smiles as bright as the sun. Those are the days when life slows down. And your only job is making memories that nourish your soul.

Days off are best spent with sandy feet and smiles as bright as the sun. Those are the days when life slows down. And your only job is making memories that nourish your soul.

MERCURY ENGINES ARE MADE FOR EXPLORING. SO ARE YOU. GO BOLDLY.

MERCURY ENGINES ARE MADE FOR EXPLORING. SO ARE YOU. GO BOLDLY.

ADVANCED MARINE POWER

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ALBERNI POWER & MARINE

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BILL HOWICH MARINE

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BRIDGEVIEW SANDSPIT

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CASCADE MARINE & SUPPLY Chilliwack, BC | 604-792-1381

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INLET MARINE Port Moody, BC | 604-936-4602

LA MARINE

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MADEIRA MARINE 1980 LTD. Madeira Park, BC | 604-883-2266

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MONTI’S MARINE & MOTOR SPORTS Duncan, BC | 250-748-4451

ROD’S POWER & MARINE LTD. Tofino, BC | 250-725-3735

SEA POWER MARINE CENTRE LTD. Sidney, BC | 250-656-4341

VECTOR YACHT SERVICES LTD. Sidney, BC | 250-655-3222

11/2022

LETTERS

WE WELCOME YOUR LETTERS

Send your letter, along with your full name, and your boat’s name (if applicable), to editor@pacificyachting.com. Note that letters are selected and edited for brevity and clarity.

ABANDONED VESSELS

I just received and cracked open the latest PY mag (August 2022) and have made a habit of reading the editor’s article first.

Two vessels are very close to my dock. One began to take on water and sank about 30 feet from my dock and took various parties, including Transport Canada, to finally remove the vessel after several years. The other vessel was a bit further down the harbour and was just removed this spring. Although

I acknowledge the problem of abandoned vessels, I must disagree on the avenues proposed by our federal government. Their proposal is very much in line with the Liberal mantra that new or added general taxes (likely inefficiently administered by an uninspired and bureaucratic government body) will solve the problem. They may see the boater industry as generally having money so tax those who have and fix the problem for those who seem to not have. This socialistic mentality is wrong and should

not be entertained. The general aim ought to be to hold the individuals or businesses responsible for their derelict boats rather than place responsibility on the taxpayer. Dumping the responsibility will only result in ever increasing taxes and embolden bad vessel owners to think little of abandoning their old vessels. Rule or laws must be changed, modified and enforced to hold folks responsible. This ever-increasing tide of giving power to the government only increases taxes, burden on law abiding

folks, and removes rightful responsi bility from the people. I propose the people will be better served by having the government educate, enforce re sponsibility and empower people. How about a law that says folks can apply to the government to take a derelict boat and take ownership of the vessel if they are interested in reclaiming or salvaging the vessel? This would cost the government and taxpayer little and likely see a significant number of boats removed from derelict status to useful status. Again, this idea of a tax to solve the prob lem is not the solution, and I hope differ ent options that highlights responsibility and people empowerment are sought.

—Nalie Kim

Hi Nalie, Thanks for your letter. We’ve forwarded it on to Diane Selkirk, who wrote about the Wrecked, Abandoned or Hazardous Ves sels Act in the August issue.—Eds.

The reader points out that we need laws to enforce bad owners to care for vessels—we already have this, it came in under the Wrecked, Abandoned or Hazardous Vessels Act, of 2019 which states you may not:

• Abandon your vessel.

• Cause your vessel to become a wreck because you fail to maintain it.

• Sink, strand or ground your vessel on purpose.

• Leave your vessel in poor condition in the same area for more than 60 consecutive days within a radius of three miles without the authoriza tion of the location owner.

But what the government is doing now is playing catch-up with all the vessels that were abandoned before the act came into effect. We also have a problem with owners who sell or give end-of life boats to the lowest bidder (rather than paying for the more expensive disposal themselves) this dumps problem boats in the hands of people who do not have the

skills or finances to maintain or to dispose of them.

While the  Wrecked, Abandoned or Hazardous Vessels Act has a provision for fines for those who don’t comply with disposing of boats in a legal way—the fact is, boats degrade over their lives and leaving the entire cost of disposal in the hands of the individual who last owned the boat isn’t working (especially when we don’t have a straightforward way to dispose of boats).

This new scheme endeavours to spread the coast of disposal over the life of the vessel. It’s easy to point fin gers and assign blame—but the fact is we have a problem and if we are going to protect the environment we need to get on with solutions.

—Diane Selkirk

REMEMBERING PHIL

That was a nice tribute to Phil Pidcock in the September issue. Regarding the Pidcock’s vessel  Alpine Fir II: She was built in 1947 by G.H. Oliver of North Vancouver as the yacht,  Letitia II and was subsequently acquired by the BC Forest Service in 1949. After a conver sion and renaming for Forest Service work, she served on the coast as a Rang er launch until being decommissioned along with other Ranger launches in the mid-1980s. Phil and Sandra kept the name  Alpine Fir II for their newly acquired vessel and were active and popular members of the  Ex-Forest Service Vessel Squadron for the Squadron’s 30-year existence. As a friend and fellow Squadron member, Phil was always an enthusiastic and knowledgeable resource to turn to with our questions and ‘boat issues.’ Many of us also bene fited from his vast experience and ship wright skills when we hauled out our respective vessels at Cove Yachts. Phil is fondly remembered and sorely missed in the Squadron.

—Doug Mitchell

Thanks for sharing Doug. Eds.

CURRENTS

WE ENCOURAGE CURRENTS SUBMISSIONS

This is a local news-driven section. If something catches your attention that would be of interest to local boaters, send it along to blainew@pacificyachting.com.

BC-Based Campion Shuts Down

s of August 31, Campion Boats has shut down all production at their Kelowna manufacturing plant, just shy of four years after the company was purchased by KV Capital of Edmonton. The new owners stated that they are working to outsource the manufacturing to another company.

Campion has been building boats for almost 50 years and became an international success story, earning its place as

Canada’s largest independent fibreglass boatbuilder with up to 185 employees. Campion sold their boats through a network of 80 dealers in Canada and around the world.

In a news release after the 2018 sale, Brock Elliott, Campion president, said, “Campion has been a very meaningful part of our family for two generations. I wanted to retire, so we went looking for a suitable purchaser. We had interested parties, but in the end, we didn’t have to look

any farther than KV Capital. We are very pleased to have found partners in KV who we trust to carry on this legacy.”

In the same release, KV Capital President Jonathan Herman said, “We were attracted to Campion due to the strength of its brand, loyal dealer network and the dedication of its longterm employees and ownership group over the last 45 years of operations.”

Unfortunately, at this point, the legacy that Elliott created does not look like it was carried on for long.

In August of 2022, despite closing the operation, KV Capital announced that it planned to continue building Campion boats, but through a contract manufacturing arrangement with a yet-do-bedetermined company. They recently auctioned off most, if not all, of the manufacturing equipment.

The purchase price was not disclosed, but the Elliott family and their partners retained ownership of the plant and the 4.68-acre Campion property, which has been put up for sale with a price of almost $15 million.

Obviously, this has had an impact

on the many Campion dealers around the world. However, one dealer who wished to remain anonymous, told Paci c Yachting that they began to see the writing on the wall soon after KV took over. That dealer began looking for a replacement boat line, which they found, and mitigated the impacts of losing Campion.

At press time, our repeated attempts to interview KV Capital’s Jonathan Herman went unanswered and the phone number for Campion gives a busy signal.

We were able to contact Brock Elliott. Commenting on the shutdown, he said, “It’s a shame that the plant is no longer in operation. It’s very sad and very emotional. I’m disappointed and feel sorry for the employees, dealers and suppliers, whom we looked after through the good and bad over many years.”

In September of 2022, KV Capital divested two of its three other manufacturing companies, Kelowna-based Northern Lite Trailers and Edmonton-based Off Grid Trailers. These were premium manufacturers of truck campers and overland trailers, respectively—which they purchased in 2017.

—Peter A. Robson

BRITISH COLUMBIA

ANCHOR MARINE Victoria, BC 250-386-8375

COMAR ELECTRIC SERVICES LTD Port Coquitlam, BC 604-941-7646

ELMAR MARINE ELECTRONICS North Vancouver, BC 604-986-5582

GLOBAL MARINE EQUIPMENT Richmond, BC 604-718-2722

MACKAY MARINE Burnaby, BC 604-435-1455

PRIME YACHT SYSTEMS INC Victoria, BC 250-896-2971

RADIO HOLLAND Vancouver, BC 604-293-2900

REEDEL MARINE SERVICES Parksville, BC 250-248-2555

ROTON INDUSTRIES Vancouver, BC 604-688-2325

PY’s ‘Take Your Best Shot’ Photo Contest

Pacific Yachting’s annual photo contest is back! It’s not too late to submit your best boating photos from 2022 for a chance to be featured in the February issue of Pacific Yachting and win some awesome prizes, including a Yeti V Series Stainless Steel Cooler valued at $1,100.

For contest rules and to enter, visit pacificyachting.com/photo-contest Deadline: December 15

SEACOAST MARINE ELECTRONICS LTD Vancouver, BC 604-323-0623

SEACOM MARINE LTD Campbell River, BC 250-286-3717

STRYKER ELECTRONICS Port Hardy, BC 250-949-8022

TOWNS MARINE SUPPLY Richmond, BC 604-277-3191

WESTERN MARINE CO Vancouver, BC 604-253-3322

BOOK REVIEW

Icebound: Shipwrecked at the Edge of the World

By Andrea Pitzer, Simon & Schuster, 273 pages, $25.00

There are lots of books and stories written about the search for the Northwest Passage along Canada’s West Coast, but a story about going north from the Netherlands and around the pole to get to China—that’s somewhat different.

William Barents is not exactly a household name, but you will never forget this Dutch explorer’s name after reading this book. His mission was to sail to Nova Zembla, which extends hundreds of miles north above the Russian mainland, and then to sail as far north as he could go. Barents believed, as many geographers did at that time, that the north pole was warm and that a northern passage to the far side of the world was possible. He left in May 1594, on the first of three such voyages. In this first exploration, three months and 10 days were spent at sea as Barents

sailed farther north of the continent than any other European explorer in history, travelling 2,000 miles north and returning without the loss of a single man. As a result, everyone now knew that Nova Zembla was an island and not an impassable continent, lending credence to the belief that a northeast route to China was possible, even though hazardous.

Ergo, immediately upon his triumphant return, a second, larger expedition was authorized with the intention of establishing trading partners in the far east. Seven fully laden ships sailed off equipped for trade in Asia and outfitted for 18 months away from port. However, this expedition was doomed to fail and resulted in a considerable loss of life. They encountered numerous icebergs and blocked passages as well as inclement weather, a collision between ships, fog, gales, polar bears, and a mutiny. In all, 12 men died on the journey: two killed by a polar bear, four drowned in the ship collision, one

RENDEZVOUS ROUNDUP

Our annual Rendezvous Roundup is a collection of user submitted photos, showcasing the fun events and gatherings that take place over the course of the cruising season. Whether you got together at an organized rendezvous or just met up with some boating friends at a favourite destination, we’d love to see how you made the most of your time on the water in 2022. Send your photos and a short caption to editor@pacificyachting.com.

Deadline: October 28

died as a result of keelhauling (a form of punishment involving being dragged along the underside of the ship) and five were hanged. Instead of a successful 18-month expedition, the ships limped home in four months. This time their arrival was not met with jubilation. Nevertheless, the intrepid Barents managed to secure enough backing to make a third try in 1596, on a 60-foot vessel with 15 men. The last half of the book will recount what happened on this third attempt when the marooned men had to survive over winter in the aptly named Ice Harbour and try to fend off constant polar bear attacks, sub-freezing temperatures, snowstorms, hunger, illness and the constant darkness of a polar winter.

It’s a good read, chock-full of history, as Pitzer gives historical details of the times and the people to flesh out the adventure. She actually went on three expeditions to the Arctic herself to retrace Barents’ voyages and routes. Now that’s dedication!

P.S. If the name does sound familiar, the Barents Sea was named after this intrepid and unlucky explorer.

—Cherie iessen

The Magenta Project: Getting More Women on Race Boats

The Magenta Project and Canada Ocean Racing (COR) have teamed up to get more women on ocean race boats. They started with a sailing and networking event in Toronto on September 26.

The “Magenta” event began the evening with a private boat tour, technical briefing, splicing lesson and networking

with the team. On Monday morning, the group boarded the COR IMOCA 60 race boat and got to ‘learn the ropes’ from yacht racing icon, Alex Thomson, and the COR team while sailing around Toronto Harbour.

Most professional female ocean racers are from Europe, as that is traditionally where the most opportunities for the sport are. The new COR team wants to help develop female and youth talent in Canada, and inspire the next generation through initiatives like this one.

“With two daughters of my own, I would never want my children to feel like they couldn’t compete in a sport just because of their gender. Traditionally, sailing has been a male-dominated sport and our team wants to ensure we are providing plenty of opportunity to change this narrative,” remarks Scott Shawyer,

President and Skipper of COR.

Just one day on the water can make an impact of a lifetime. The Magenta crew walk away with new skills, a great experience, and a bigger network of connections to help advance their careers in sailing. For Erica Lush, she will be sail ing on with the team as the newest offi cial member of the COR crew. The hope is that this event will inspire many more future ‘Ericas’ and we will be seeing a lot more of these women on the water.

“I am honoured and excited to be joining the Canada Ocean Racing team as crew. This feels like a breakthrough opportunity in my career,” said Erica.

Follow @themagentaproj on social media and learn more on the website themagentaproject.org.

Keep up with the Canada Ocean Rac ing team @canada_ocean_racing.

PHOTO: DANIEL JONSSON

ENVIRONMENT

Canadian Coast Guard Goes Green

In early October the Canadian Coast Guard (CCG) announced two important steps to reduce its emission output: the start of a biodiesel testing project and the launch of the next phase in the construction of the Government of Canada’s first hybrid electric vessel. This is in line with the government’s commitments to reducing greenhouse emissions by 2030 and 2050.

The CCG became the first government agency to trial a 20 percent biodiesel blend in one of its vessels, the CCGS  Caribou Isle. Over the next months, various biodiesel ratios will be tested in order to enable the CCG to assess operational feasibility and technological compatibility of higher blend rates across various operational settings. This biodiesel test project will assist in advancing solutions to decrease emissions in the immediate term.

In the long-term, the CCG is preparing a new hybrid electric near-shore fishery research vessel that uses less diesel. The CCG has made a proposal for Canadian shipbuilders to construct the vessel. The successful bidder will incorporate Canadian innovative green technologies in the construction of the vessel. These include the overall design by British Columbia vessel designer Robert Allan Ltd, a propulsion and battery system by Prince Edward Island engineering firm Aspin Kemp and Associates, and deck equipment systems engineering by Nova Scotia’s Hawboldt Industries Ltd.

Through these two important projects, the CCG is taking a major step in the overall objective of lowering their fleet’s carbon emissions. “These initiatives give us reasons to be proud and to be hopeful,” said Mario Pelletier, Commissioner of the CCG

Sunk off San Juan

clean-up occurred off the west coast of San Juan Island late September. The Aleutian Isle is a 58-foot fishing vessel that sank in 75 metres of water near Mitchell Bay on August 13. The Aleutian reportedly contained 2,500 gallons of diesel and 100 gallons of other oils at the time of sinking. It was evident that part of Aleutian had ruptured and was spewing its oily contents as a twomile-long sheen was seen around the accident site.

Response was rapid, but with a wreck at that depth it was apparent that much planning was required and a command team was set up consisting of the US Coast Guard, Washington Department of Ecology, San Juan County Office of Emergency Management and the Swinomish Tribe. Together, they set up containment booms and started planning their approach. A Remote Operated Vehicle was brought in to monitor the situation and special diving equipment had to be obtained for divers to reach the deep wreck.

On the environmental side, specialized teams were established to monitor and deter wildlife from entering the contaminated zone. There were drills

with joint Canadian and American vessels focusing on Southern Resident Killer Whales. The drills were useful as a pair of killer whales were rerouted on two separate occasions. Birds landing in the contaminated zone were also a concern; vessels armed with air cannons monitored the site to scare off any birds approaching. Throughout the wreck’s removal, thousands of feet of absorbing boom was used to suck up spilled fuels.

On September 17, after weeks of complex dives, the Aleutian was brought to the surface by crane, then towed to the nearby Mitchell Bay. In total, the Aleutian Isle spent 36 days on the ocean floor and another four in Mitchell Bay. It was fully removed and placed on a salvage barge on September 21.

“This is a big success for everyone who worked, in so many different ways, to make this happen,” said Washington Deptartment of Ecology’s Dave Byers. “Although the vessel was removed from the water, we will still monitor for any residual fuel that could impact the shoreline or wildlife. We will continue to have wildlife experts and shoreline assessment teams actively surveying the area looking for potential oil impacts for the next several days.”

—Blaine Willick

From the experienced boat building team at Aspen Power Catamarans comes a new series of lightweight rigid tenders that are unlike any boat built before. The Carbon Cat’s unique hull form provides the stability of a catamaran or an inflatable RIB but utilizes lightweight carbon fibre construction making them fast, efficient and easy to handle.

The unique hull shape of the Carbon Cat combines the best attributes of both catamarans and monohulls. This hybrid design starts with a deep single-entry forefoot that smoothly cleaves through waves for improved tracking and spray resistance. The hull contour then gently widens aft and at the stern resembles a modified catamaran hull which provides lateral stability and lift. This hybrid-cat hull form is incredibly stable

and the sharp entry forward ensures a fast, efficient, dry ride.

The gunwale is finished with a thick foam bumper made with SeaDek HD for durability and to eliminate scratches and abrasions. The seating area is also cushioned with SeaDek creating a softer surface and better grip.

The light weight Carbon Cat construction means that the power requirements should be 35 percent less than typical inflatables due to the hard bottom and hybrid cat hull shape. During sea trials the T11 reached a top speed of 18 knots powered by a single 9.9-horsepower Yamaha outboard.

Using more moderate horsepower increases fuel efficiency and reduces weight. This makes Carbon Cats and their engines easier to stow on board and easier to launch and retrieve. Optional transom wheels make beaching the Carbon Cat easy. For more information go to aspenpowercatamarans.com.

Highfield Launches New Ribs for 2023

Highfield has announced the launch of five brand-new models for 2023. These rugged RIBs include the new Highfield Sport 900 and Sport 760, which made their North American debuts at the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show (FLIBS) in late October 2022. In addition, Highfield is introducing the Sport 700, Sport 660, and Sport 600. Highfield’s Sport Series RIBs are premium yacht tenders and day boats ranging from 10 to 30 feet, featuring upscale styling and amenities.

“These new models are all in the upper size range of our Sport Series, including Highfield’s new flagship, the Sport 900, an offshore, high-performance RIB nearly 30 feet in length,” said Highfield Boats President Christophe Lavigne.

ASPEN INTRODUCES THE CARBON CAT

BY ROXANNE DUNN

Warm Winter Ragu

Ancient, Magical Braises

A sharp, aggressive wind blasts up the dock, whipping the dark, mysterious water into foamy peaks and slapping our faces with rain so cold it stings. It’s time to bring some warmth to the table—time for a hearty ragu.

AWhen you braise inexpensive cuts of meat, magic happens, and it smells so good you won’t even care that it’s winter. This method of transforming tough shoulders and shanks into tender, succulent, falling-apart morsels began when the first cook set a pot over an open fire or in a pit of coals and left it to simmer. Undoubtedly, results varied. But now we understand the chemistry that works the magic, so we can reproduce it every time.

Traditionally, a ragu simmers all day, but it’s possible to cook it more quickly. As long as you follow the rules. A heavy

pot that distributes heat evenly and has a tight-fitting lid helps ensure success. Buy the toughest, least expensive meats, such as pork butt or shoulder, lamb shanks or shoulder, or beef chuck. Trim excess fat and cut the meat to the desired size. Pat it dry. Sear it in hot oil, browning it on all sides. Don’t be tempted to rush through this. The meat must be dry. The pan must be hot. You must leave space around each piece, so you probably have to do it in several batches. This takes patience, but these steps are essential, and so worth it. When browned, remove the pieces

to a bowl and continue until they are all seared.

Next, build complexity by cooking the aromatics, starting with onion, then garlic, then other vegetables, just enough to release their juices. Nestle the meat (with accumulated juices) into the vegetables. In this phase, in stead of leaving space around each piece of meat, tuck them in closely, then add enough liquid to nearly cover.

Now for the most magical part: The cooking temperature is critical. Con nective tissue and collagen begin to break down at temperatures around 88º to 94º C (190º to 200º F). This ten derizes the muscle fibres. This tempera ture, which happens at a very gentle simmer, must be maintained until the meat is tender. Larger pieces, of course, will take longer than smaller ones.

If you have time for this traditional method, it will fill the air with homey goodness while you curl up with a good book. But when everyone is busy or when you’re out cruising all day, you may want to take this shortcut: Chop the cubes of meat in a food processor or use ground meat. Browning and cook ing go much quicker, and you can make a rich, hearty, satisfying ragu in about an hour. Of course, it will taste better if it can simmer a little longer, but only you will know the difference.

This recipe starts with a basic sauce for beef, lamb, or pork, and includes in structions for both the long and short methods. Serve it over polenta, pasta, spaghetti squash, or in a bowl with a crusty baguette. Enjoy!

Warm Winter Ragu

Note: To achieve good flavour with 30 minutes cooking time, use ground or chopped meat. If you have time to simmer the ragu for at least two hours or until the meat is tender, use cubes of meat instead. Normally, I cut the meat into 2.5 to four-centimetre cubes.

For six hearty servings

SAUCE INGREDIENTS

•6 tablespoons olive oil, divided

•2 cups finely chopped onion

•3–6 cloves minced garlic

•2 celery stalks, finely diced

•2 medium carrots, finely diced

•1 can (28 ounces) diced small or crushed tomatoes

•1/2 cup dry red wine

•2 cups vegetable, beef (for beef), veal or chicken broth

•1/2 teaspoon salt

•1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

•1 teaspoon Italian seasoning, or mixed dried thyme, rosemary and oregano

•1/2 cup coarsely chopped parsley

•2–3 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

Optional:

•1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

•1/2–1 teaspoon sugar to taste, if the tomatoes are too acidic

For lamb ragu, add:

•900 grams (two pounds) ground or minced lamb or cubed shoulder

•2–3 rosemary sprigs

Optional:

•Grated pecorino cheese to pass at table

For beef ragu, add:

•900 grams (two pounds) 85 percent lean ground or chopped beef or cubed chuck

•2–3 anchovy filets or 1 teaspoon anchovy paste

•1 tablespoon tomato paste

•1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

•3 cups chopped mushrooms

•2 bay leaves

For pork ragu, add:

•900 grams (two pounds) chopped or ground pork or cubed pork butt

•Four 10-centimetre strips of orange peel (use a vegetable peeler)

METHOD

1. Heat a large, heavy pan (eg, Dutch oven) until a drop of water sizzles.

2. If using cubes of meat, pat them dry.

3. Brown meat on all sides in four tablespoons olive oil, in batches to avoid having them touch.

4. Remove from pan. Wipe only the fat from pan.

5. Lower heat to medium.

6. In same pan, sweat onions in two tablespoons olive oil until slightly softened.

7. Add garlic and stir for one minute.

8. Stir in seasonings except parsley and vinegar.

9. Add carrots, celery and mushrooms (if using).

10. Cook, stirring occasionally, adding broth if pan is dry, until carrots soften.

11. Add tomatoes and wine. Cook one minute.

12. Nestle meat into vegetables.

13. Add broth to almost cover.

14. Bring to barely simmering (just a few bubbles) and cover.

15. If using ground or chopped meat, cook 30 minutes, adding hot broth if necessary.

16. For cubes of meat, simmer two to 2.5 hours, adding hot broth as neces sary, or until tender.

17. Turn off heat. Add balsamic vin egar and parsley.

P.S. These same rules make great beef bourguignon, osso buco, and other recipes that a lot of us shy away from because they sound too complicated.

e Westcott Bay Shell sh Company.

BY DEANE HISLOP

Westcott Bay, San Juan Island

A shucking good time

IIf you and your crew are connoisseurs of shell sh, then Westcott Bay is the place to set your hook. Oysters, clams, mussels and crab are in abundance in this picturesque gunkhole.

e approach to Westcott Bay is via Mosquito Pass, which connects Roche Harbor to the north and Haro Strait to the south. It’s narrow and meandering enough to make things interesting and tidal currents can be strong at times.

e narrow navigation channel winds through what appears to be a wide, safe passage between Henry and San Juan islands. Transit is not di cult if you remain vigilant—follow the navigational aids marking the curving channel. ere is a six-knot wake speed limit when transiting the pass. It’s basic, straightforward

1. Hook down in Westcott Bay. 2. Steamed clams and cold beer—nothing better at the end of the day. 3. When in season, crabbing can be good. 4. Sta barbecuing oysters to order.

navigation, but you would be surprised how many boats cut a corner and tap the sand bottom. Mid-way through the pass a channel leads east into Westcott and Garrison bays.

WESTCOTT IS OUTLINED with homes, summer cottages, a national park, public beaches and the Westcott Bay Shellsh Company. ere is plenty of room for multiple boats to set the hook in 14 to 16 feet of water over a sticky sand and shell bottom. e preferred anchoring is north of a line between Bell Point and the shell sh company pier to the northeast. Anchoring south of the line runs the risk of fouling the hook on derelict oyster bags, lines and oats le behind by a previous operator of the shell sh company. Should Westcott Bay be full there is more good anchorage available around the corner in Garrison Bay.

Once we are settled, and if in season, our routine is to launch the tender and set the crab pots in the hope of harvesting some of the bay’s dungeness. en we grab our buckets and hand rakes to explore one of the public beaches for some Manila and native littleneck clams for steaming.

Once our limit of clams was transferred to a dive bag and soaking over the side of Easy Goin’, to allow them to purge sand, it was time to head to shore and purchase a few oysters to shuck and enjoy during happy hour.

Westcott Bay Shell sh Company offers a ne selection of tasty Paci c oysters, Manila clams and Mediterranean mussels from Memorial Day through Labour Day, Wednesday through Monday. September through May hours and days vary depending on the month so check their website for details.

In the late 1970s, the bay’s tidelands were home to Westcott Bay Sea Farms, a thriving shell sh company. Over the years the farm went into steady decline and was put up for sale as a home site.

Local Henry Island residents Erik and Andrea Anderson bought the shell sh farm in 2013 with the vision of restoring it to its former glory. Since purchasing they’ve worked hard

to breathe new life into the farm by replanting the depleted shell sh crops, rebuilding and replacing farm infrastructure and making improvements to the property. e shell sh company continues to grow and improve the

operation year a er year.

ONCE SETTLED, WE launched the dinghy, set two crab traps and headed to the shell sh farm for some barbecued oysters on the half shell. e farm is also

within an easy dinghy ride from Garrison Bay and Roche Harbor. Boaters can tie-up at the farm’s dinghy dock (bow tie only) to go ashore and purchase shellsh to-go or enjoy them in the farm’s park like area with picnic tables overlooking the farm and bay. If you would like, the farm sta will teach you how to shuck an oyster so they can be slurped fresh. Or if you prefer, purchase oysters barbecued on the half-shell by the sta . Visitors can also purchase locally baked bread, cheeses and Westcott cider, beer, or wine to accompany their oysters.

FOR YACHT CLUB rendezvous and other group events there is the Ned Shed. is rustic, barn-style building located in an open eld just steps from the water’s edge o ers unobstructed views of

the bay and seating for up to 50 people. ere is also in-house catering featuring West Coast inspired sea-to-table menus and an antique potbellied stove for those cooler days.

When purchasing shell sh to-go, the farm sta advises storing them in a dry bowl, covering with a damp towel and storing in the refrigerator or ice chest. e key is to keep them cool, and damp and they will be good for three to four days. Do not store them submerged in water.

On the way back to Easy Goin’ we checked the crab traps and were rewarded with one legal size dungeness. It made two large crab cocktails for dinner.

e next morning, we enjoyed the beauty of Westcott Bay and its mirror

WHE N YO U GO

Location: 48.35’4” N, 123.09’0” W

Charts: NOAA 18421, 18433

Nearest Marina: Roche Harbor Resort & Marina: rocheharbor.com

Westcott Bay Shellfish Company: westcottbayshellfish.com

Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife: wdfw.wa.gov

like surface while sipping on our morning co ee—before moving on to our next destination. It was sad to leave but we always return for more of the mouthwatering seafood.

San Juan Islands

Area of enlargement

Garrison Bay

Henry Island

San Juan Is.

Roche Harbor

Mosquito Pa s s

Westcott Bay Shell sh Company

CRUISING the CENTRAL COAST PART THREE

The many islands of Hakai—windows to the past

By William Kelly & Anne Vipond

A fair weather anchorage lies west of Soulsby Point on Campbell Island.

When Hakai Recreation Area was es tablished in 1987, this magnificent stretch of Central Coast wilderness became British Columbia’s largest marine protected area—over 120,000 hectares in size and encompassing an array of islands, chan nels and ocean beaches. The name was later changed to Hakai Lúxvbálís Conservancy, reflecting its joint manage ment by BC Parks and the Heiltsuk Nation.

WITHIN ITS BOUNDARIES lie most of Hunter Island and dozens of smaller islands and islets bordering Hakai Pas sage, Kildidt Sound, Queens Sound and the northwest por tion of Calvert Island. The rest of Calvert Island is protected by the Calvert Island Conservancy, established in 2006. Reached only by sea or by air, the Hakai area has long at tracted sport fishers to its salmon-rich waters, with floating lodges operating near Hakai Passage each summer.

The main anchorage in this area is Pruth Bay on Cal vert Island. Kwakshua Channel leads west for five miles from Fitz Hugh Sound into Pruth Bay, which is popular with boaters for its access across a neck of land to the

stunning ocean beaches on Calvert Island’s outer coast. The private parcel of land at the head of the bay is owned by the Tula Foundation, which in 2009 converted an existing fishing lodge into an ecological observatory for environmental science. Called the Hakai Institute, it accommodates scientists and university students conducting field work in the summer months.

WINDS FUNNEL ALONG Kwakshua Channel and we have enjoyed a leisurely sail—tacking in light summer winds—to the anchorage in Pruth Bay. We anchor well away from the floats at the head, which are used by the institute’s deliv ery vessels and seaplanes, but the rear fingers are kept free for dinghies to tie up. Signs on shore direct visitors through the institute’s grounds to the trailhead for West Beach. From there it’s a 15-minute hike to a beau tiful stretch of sandy beach where ocean waves roll ashore and sandpipers flit along the edge of the surf.

At the south end of West Beach is the trailhead for Lookout Trail, which climbs to a viewpoint over looking the ocean, then de scends to a series of smaller, secluded beaches lying to the south. Near the far end of West Beach is a signpost for the North Beach trailhead. The hike to North Beach is along a well-maintained trail with a sturdy boardwalk bridge straddling a wetland filled with native water lilies.

arms. On our last visit we tied our dinghy at high water to a felled log that was lodged against the shore, then hiked along a rough forest trail that eventually emerged onto an open landscape of rocky hillocks, gnarled trees and ground carpeted with mosses, sedges and grasses unique to bog ecosystems.

The outer islands of BC’s Central Coast present ideal conditions for bogs to thrive. Rainfall is abundant and the prevalence of fog helps retain moisture in the soil. The trees that grow in a bog are a mix of cedar, hemlock and stunted shore pine, and the plants are so tiny a person needs to look closely, which is why visitors are asked to keep to the designated trails on Calvert Island. It took us about 30 minutes at a brisk pace to reach the site of the radio tower, where we lingered on a wooden platform and took in the panoramic views of Kwakshua Channel and the islands clustered around Hakai Passage.

An islet near Dodwell Island contains a lovely midden beach.

HAKAI’S LABYRINTH OF intricate channels, low is lands and pocket beaches are popular with kayakers but may not be on every cruiser’s itinerary. How ever, boaters prepared to pilot the maze of chan nels, reefs and kelp-strewn passes will be rewarded with some unique and secluded anchorages. Weather is another impor tant consideration, for Queens Sound and Kildidt Sound can be daunting in a southerly gale. In late summer, sea fog frequently rolls in from Queen Charlotte Sound.

WE ALWAYS PRAY for beach weather when we pull into Pruth Bay, but we once sat out a summer storm while anchored here. Together with a dozen other boats we held firm in the 30-knot gusts funneling along Kwakshua Channel into the main part of the bay, which is exposed to strong easterlies. Fortunately, the holding ground of thick mud and sand is good. The south arm provides better protection in southeast winds.

In settled weather we’ve anchored overnight at nearby Keith Anchorage, at the mouth of its west arm, with the sole intent of hiking up to a radio tower viewpoint overlooking the anchor age and surrounding waters. The top of the tower can be seen from the anchorage and the trailhead is located on the north west shore of the point of land separating the anchorage’s two

Before heading north across Hakai Passage, we have rounded the top end of Calvert Island in calm conditions and headed down Choked Passage. At its north end is Ad ams Harbour, which can be a busy place during the summer months when floating lodges locate here and a fishing camp, nestled in the trees near Sandspit Point, is up and running. Despite numerous aluminum skiffs buzzing about, we en joyed anchoring overnight on the east side of Starfish Island. Another time we continued to the south end of Choked Pas sage, which is indeed choked with kelp, and anchored for the afternoon off North Beach.

HAKAI PASSAGE IS over two miles wide and we’ve expe rienced substantial set when crossing (currents can reach

four knots) so we’re careful to monitor our position at all times. If proceeding into Kildidt Sound from Hakai Passage when a southerly is blowing, the safest route is to proceed north up Edward Channel and west through the pass above Stirling Island. Lewall Inlet, on the east side of Stirling Island, provides good shelter from most winds and the holding is good in mud. We anchor in the basin formed by the elbow where the inlet turns north. On another trip, after crossing Hakai Passage, we were approaching the pass lying at the southwest tip of Stirling Island when a salmon hit our fishing line. After landing our catch we motorsailed with jib raised into Kildidt Sound and proceeded up the west side of Stirling Island to Leckie Bay on Hunter Island.

Although the main part of Leckie Bay, facing south and with depths of 300 feet, is not a suitable anchorage, a cove lying at the end of a narrow channel in the north end of the bay is a great spot to drop the hook. No swell enters this well-sheltered cove and we once stayed here for several days enjoying the peace and tranquility. After dropping anchor in 60 feet, we rowed to the mouth of a stream on the cove’s eastern shore to fill our sunshower and noticed the rusty colour of the water, which is caused by dissolved organic matter and is typi cal of freshwater pools and streams in a bog forest.

ONE OF OUR favourite an chorages in Kildidt Sound lies within Watt Bay. This large bay contains two smaller bays—Bremner Bay and, to its south, an un named bay that contains a small cove on its north side. This cove is entered between a drying reef and a narrow point of land. Once through this tight entrance, we make a sharp turn to starboard around the point and anchor in the middle of the cove in 30 feet, then reverse toward the eastern shore and tie a stern line to a tree. This is a perfect hideaway, its shores thick with cedar and salal, its peacefulness punctuated by the chattering of kingfishers or the occasional visit by a seal swimming into the cove to look around.

popular and secure anchorages in this area is the harbour-like bay on the north side of Spider Anchorage inside the south tip of Hurricane Island. This all-weather anchorage can ac commodate several boats and is a good base from which to explore the surrounding area by dinghy. A wide rock ledge on the northwest side of the bay is a good spot for a picnic lunch, until a rising tide starts lapping across it.

Spider Channel leads north from Spider Anchorage and is cluttered with rocks (called the Stopper Group) at its south end. The reef just south of islet ‘48’ can be passed, dead slow, on either side. We stay closer to island ‘48’ when passing between it and island ‘40’. Once you’re through Spider Channel and into the open waters of Queens Sound, the next hazard is Superstition Ledge. As we head to Cultus Sound, we al ways give this reef a wide berth, its location marked by the sight of seas breaking on it. Strong tide rips occur in its vicinity.

Walking through the grounds of the Hakai Institute to the West Beach trailhead.

Ocean swells from Queen Charlotte Sound make their way into Cul tus Sound but sheltered anchorages can be found within the McNaughton Group. Protection from northwesterly winds is good in the bay formed by the two islands marked ‘98’ and ‘84’. Shelter from south winds is found midway along the gut in be tween island ‘98’ and the large island to the south. From the anchorages of the McNaughton Group, there are numerous islets, beaches and lagoons to ex plore by dinghy or kayak.

More anchorages lie on the west side of Kildidt Sound, where Brydon Channel leads past a roomy anchorage in the middle of the Kittyhawk Group and continues into Spider Anchorage, which is a deep basin surrounded by islands. One of the most

Sans Peur (French for ‘without fear’) Passage ex periences weak current (two to three knots) and is the recommended route north from Cultus Sound. Upon emerging from Sans Peur Passage, it’s clear sailing up Hunter Channel to the anchorages at the south end of Campbell Is land. Here you will find a couple of one-boat anchorages in the passage above Dodwell Island along the Campbell Island shore. If these are already taken, we motor over to the anchor ages inside Soulsby Point, passing along the way a small mid den beach (popular with kayakers) on the islet marked ‘49’.

AFTER DAYS SPENT cruising Hakai’s undeveloped shores, we head to the fishing port of Bella Bella or nearby Shear

The view of Kwakshua Channel from the radio tower above Keith Anchorage.

Strolling the sands of North Beach on Calvert Island.

water to take on fuel, water and provisions. Bella Bella, also called Waglisla (Heiltsuk for ‘river on the beach’) stretches along the east side of Campbell Island and is the Heiltsuk Nation’s main community. A road connects Bella Bella with McLoughlin Bay, three kilometres south of the town. A furtrading fort built in 1833 by the Hudson’s Bay Company once stood at McLoughlin Bay, which is now the site of a BC Ferries Terminal and a Heiltsuk fish processing plant.

Bella Bella has twice hosted the Qatuwas Canoe Festival, a week-long cultural event with participants arriving by canoe from coastal communities throughout Alaska, British Columbia and Washington State. The artist Roy Henry Vickers, whose grandfather was born in Bella Bella, attended the original festival hosted at Bella Bella in 1993 and he created a special print to commemorate the gathering. His distinctive prints have been presented to various dignitaries, including Queen Elizabeth II. Her grandson Prince William visited Bella Bella with his wife Kate in 2016 to help raise awareness of the community’s conservation efforts. The royal couple arrived by plane on a stormy September day and received a ceremonial welcome at the Wawiskas Community Hall, afterwards going for a forest walk along a portion of newly built boardwalk trail. A water taxi runs regularly between Bella Bella and Shearwa-

Surf rolls ashore on beautiful West Beach.

ter Resort on Denny Island. The resort contains a full-service marina with plenty of dock space and extensive facilities, including a restaurant, hardware store and grocery store. Shearwater’s Second World War air force history, when military personnel were stationed here, is commemorated in a small park overlooking the marina. After the war, the Shearwater station was purchased by Andrew and Jean Widsten, who turned the site into a marine transportation centre and sportfishing resort. In 2021 the Widsten family sold both its marine services division and resort to separate buyers, the latter now owned and operated by the Heiltsuk Nation. Read more about Shearwater and the Widstens in the October issue of Paci c Yachting. Eds

FEW WORDS ABOUT PLACE NAMES

Back in the summer of 1792, when Captain George Vancouver’s two ships—Discovery and Chatham—were sailing up Fitz Hugh Sound in search of a northwest passage, they pulled into Safety Cove on Calvert Island with the intention of inspecting Chatham’s hull for any damage incurred after running aground on submerged rocks in Queen Charlotte Strait. However, during their stay at Safety Cove, as Captain Vancouver noted in his journals, “ . . . the rise and fall of the tide had not been equal to our wishes for the purpose of grounding the Chatham, without landing the greater part of her stores and provisions; and as the bottom at low tide was found to be soft mud, unfavourable to such an operation, that business was necessarily deferred.”

Captain Vancouver had been sent by the Royal Navy to conduct a detailed survey of the coastal mainland from Juan de Fuca Strait to Cook Inlet in Alaska. The charts he and his officers produced were, at the time, unequalled

in detail and accuracy, and are the basis for today’s charts of coastal British Columbia and Alaska. He often adopted names already given to places, such as Calvert Island and Safety Cove, both named by Charles Duncan, a British furtrading captain, in 1788. The Indigenous people living here had plenty of their own names in place, such as Hakai (wide passage) and Kildidt (long inlet), but many of the coast’s geographical features remained officially unnamed.

During the Second World War, the Royal Canadian Air Force built a radar station on Spider Island and operated a reconnaissance base at Shearwater. To orient themselves, military pilots patrolling the Central Coast bestowed the names of fighter planes on some of the unnamed islands. These include Kittyhawk, Hurricane, Spitfire and Mosquito. The Canadian Hydrographic Service also honoured Canada’s military leaders. The McNaughton Group of islands is named for General Andrew McNaughton, who commanded the

Canadian Army overseas from 1939 to 1943. Simonds Group honours Lieutenant-General Guy Simonds, who rose quickly through the ranks and commanded the Canadian Army during the liberation of Holland.

Triquet Island is named for a Second World War captain who was awarded the Victoria Cross for bravery. However, this small island is better known as the site of one of the oldest settlements in North America after archeologists discovered artefacts of an ancient village dating back 14,000 years. This discovery supports the theory that humans first arrived in North America not by crossing a land bridge from Siberia to Alaska but by entering along the coast.

Triquet Island is currently closed to visitors due to its archeological significance. When we anchored at Triquet Island in the 1990s, we set off by dinghy to find a secluded beach. Little did we know this island on the edge of Queen Charlotte Sound contained such important clues to the past.

A

CHARTERING ON FRANCE’S CANAL DU MIDI

Story & photos by Diane Selkirk

Crusing for cuisine & crusader history

Our lock partner follows us into the last chamber of a multi-lock section on the Canal du Midi.

CHARTERING SPECIAL FRANCE

lmost every time we drove our 15-metre canal boat into one of the small oval locks on France’s Canal du Midi, we drew a crowd. It could be our audience was made up of engineering fans here to see the ancient technology in action or mariners down to admire the lines of our vessel. But chances are, that along with watch ing our charter boat go up or down like a big bathtub toy, the crowd was hoping for drama. This is because despite a morn ing of training from Le Boat, and their assurance that anyone can drive the canal boats, not everyone immediately gets the

Ahang of entering the stone-walled chambers and riding the receding water four, or more, metres down or up the basin. This is partly because unlike sailing charters, travel on the in land waterways doesn’t require the skipper have formal quali fications. Instead, charter companies like Le Boat provide an orientation to the canal as well as some hands on training.

After that, it’s learn as you go.

FOR OUR MULTIGENERATIONAL group of seven, con sisting of friends and family, we expected this process

Above: Many of the locks are automated— Maia starts the cycle when we're ready.

Left: Our vessel entering the lock with Maia and Frank ready to catch the lines.

agreed that everyone needed a clear job. Then with a gentle push off the bank, we headed back into the waterway. As we approached the next locks, our new-found confidence showed. For a single (automated) lock, Evan would drive the boat up to the side of the canal and Maia and Anna would step onto the banks and push the button to open the gate. When the lock light turned green Evan would drive into the basin while our friends Mark and Val passed the bow and stern lines to the girls. Once we were secure, Maia would push the button to start the lock cycle. Before we dropped too far into the chamber, they’d step back aboard.

There are also several locations where the locks are grouped, creating a ladder up or down the canal with sets of two, three or more connected basins. In these places it’s the lock keepers who would manage the lock cycle while our shore crew stayed on land and kept hold of our lines as we moved forward. But once the process was complete the gates would open and we’d reenter the canal, in the same way boats have for hundreds of years.

AN INTRIGUING HISTORY

The story of Canal du Midi goes back to at least 1516. This is when Leonardo da Vinci first surveyed the route for the French King, who was looking for an inland passage from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean that would allow merchants to skip the long, pirate-ridden sea voyage around Spain and Portugal and through the Strait of Gibraltar. The problem was da Vinci couldn’t engineer a method for keeping water in a canal that ran downhill in both directions. It wasn’t until 1666, when Pierre-Paul Riquet, Bar on de Bonrepos realized diverting a river and building a dam at the highest point could keep the waterway full. Under King Louis XIV, work on the canal began in 1667. Over 14 years, more than 12,000 workers built a massive 700-metre long and 30-metre high dam and the 240-kilometre long canal. Utiliz ing 63 locks, 130 bridges and 60 small and large aqueducts, the technical solutions required to build Canal du Midi are said to have helped usher in the Industrial Revolution.

to be easy. After all, everyone but my daughter’s girl friend Anna has boated extensively—and my husband Evan, daughter Maia and I have even taken our own boat through the Panama Canal. Instead—when we first set out, there was some yelling and the occasional solid (though well-fendered) bump. But it was when we got ourselves wedged sideways that I realized we needed a fresh start. So we pulled over to the side of the sycamore-tree-lined ca nal to regroup. Over a yummy lunch of olives, cheese, bread and a crisp local rosé, we talked through the process and

As time went on, the cargo-laden barges that were once towed by horses and mules were gradually replaced by trucks and trains and the barges were converted into engine-pow ered pleasure boats. In recent years, fleets of modern char ter boats entered the canal system—offering full galleys and comfortable staterooms for groups from two to 12. While transiting the entire Canal du Midi could take a modern boat several weeks, our group only had seven days for our trip. So I asked the experts at Le Boat for an itinerary that would be relaxing—while giving us access to a mix of medieval villages, wineries and maybe a castle or two. Their suggestion was

to take the boat from Castelnaudary to Trèbes, a distance of just over 50 kilometres. At first this seemed like an underambitious plan. But when we only managed to travel 15 kilometres on our first day, we knew their advice was right.

COUNTRYSIDE COMFORT

As a sailor, the space aboard our canal boat felt quite roomy. When we boarded at the Le Boat base in Castelnaudary we discovered our vessel had four identical state rooms with en suites, a full kitchen and an upper deck with a second din ing area, complete with panoramic views. We decided to take advantage of the region’s excellent fresh food and do most of our meals aboard. This meant we’d have an excuse to explore all the farmers’ markets found along our route and also gave us the option of spending our nights tied up to the side of the canal in the French countryside—rather than in towns. After settling into our boat and bringing aboard the grocer

ies we ordered, it was time to untie our dock lines and join the leisurely procession of boats making their way along the canal. A few hours later (after that initial bumpy start) we were entering and exiting locks with ease.

On our second day, a light breeze blew across farm fields that stretched from the waterway toward a distant village where a stone steeple rose up through the trees. If it weren’t for power lines, the occasional car and the thrum of our own engine, the scene could have been from any moment in the canal’s rich history. And when we tied up the boat to spikes which Val had hammered into the canal side—so we could follow an old foot path into the circular village of Bram— the sense of timelessness grew deeper.

In town, as Mark and Frank hunted for olives, bread, cheese (and the best wines to accompany them) Val and I dove into the town’s old buildings and learned that this sec tion of the canal has archeological history that dates back

Above: Evan crouches to fit under one of the canal's low bridges.

Left: The sycamore trees lining the canal were planted to stop the canal banks from eroding.

to the 2nd century BCE, when it was the crossroads of two Roman roads. But it was during the Cathar Crusades that things apparently became really dramatic.

We learned this later that day when my stepdad Frank, along with Maia and Anna, went in search of a new cork screw in the village of Villesèquelande (our corkscrew broke dramatically from what we assume was a defect, rather than excessive use). Arriving after all the businesses had closed; they didn’t find a corkscrew but instead encountered a me dieval enthusiast named Gilles Alessandri who charmed them into delaying our next day’s departure so we could visit his private museum. Our guided tour of Musée de la Chevalerie immersed us in tales of battles, heroic knights and sacked castles as well as the gruesome story of a time when 100 mutilated residents from Bram were marched to Châteaux de Lastours to announce the crusades had come.

We also found a corkscrew.

FRANCE

SLOW TRAVEL ON STILL WATERS

The next few days found us enjoying morning coffee on the upper deck as the countryside eased by. As ocean sailors— the still water of the canal was a bit of a revelation. At times it felt like we could go all day—but then a cute village would appear and it seemed like a good time to stop for lunch. By the time we reached the busy port of Carcassonne, 15-kilo metre days seemed almost ambitious.

After spending a full day exploring the castle and walled city of Carcassonne, we spent our final day on the water; squeezing under low bridges, watching cyclists ride the tow path and soaking up the tranquil beauty of the countryside. Midafternoon, we pulled into the pretty village of Trèbes. After sipping yet another local wine and munching on a dif ferent type of olive, I went to watch the boats transit the nearby lock. At one point a charter boat bumped the side and someone began to yell—for a moment I thought that’s what I found so captivating. But then, the heavy metal gates slowly closed, and the sounds of turbulent water filled the air. It turns out, it is the 350-year-old engineering that’s so mesmerizing. And once the lock completed its cycle and the gates re-opened I watched the canal boat as it continued on its way, around a bend and out of sight.

WHEN YOU GO

Le Boat offers vessels of various sizes for a three-night minimum. Suitable for groups from two to 12 people. leboat.com.

Solander Island, an ecological reserve off of Brooks Peninsula.

SPECIAL VANCOUVER ISLAN D

CASCADIA CRUISE

A relaxing journey takes an abrupt turn after a medical emergency on board

Story & photos by Marianne Scott

CHARTERING

n a warm July day in Coal Harbour, my husband David and I, along with 17 other passengers, boarded an aluminum Jasper Marine skiff that transported us to Cascadia, Maple Leaf Adven tures’ power catamaran. For David and me, the boarding was the beginning of a week of adventure before an un foreseen medical emergency slashed our voyage in half. It certainly was a disappointment—from the first moment, we were delighted to be on the water without the need

Oto navigate and cook while having great opportunities to learn about the region. We did, however, expand our knowledge of the region even in that short time.

COAL HARBOUR, ONCE a whaling station and then a Royal Canadian Air Force base during the Second World War, is located on a small bay off Holberg Inlet just north of Quatsino Sound. We’d been bussed to this marina and former hangar after being collected at our meeting place

Above: Cascadia anchored in Coal Harbour.

Left: Water rushing between the hulls.

ISLAND

in Port Hardy’s stylish, Indigenous-owned Kwa’lila Ho tel. Our arrival at this marina put us directly into one of Vancouver Island’s west coast fjords, or, as Maple Leaf calls it, the “wild side.”

We’d been asked to wear masks during our bus ride and after climbing aboard the anchored Cascadia, we remained on the open aft deck while taking a Covid-19 rapid test. When all of us registered only one stripe on the test strip—negative—we removed our masks and

formally met the 10 crew members and fellow passengers. After a safety drill, Captain Alan Yates ordered the heavy chain and anchor to be hauled up and we motored west to ward the Pacific.

Cascadia is one of three ships operated by Maple Leaf Adventures (MLA), all cruising the BC and Alaskan coasts. Their tours are intimate with natu ralists aboard to enlighten pas sengers about the environment in which they float. During a bridge tour, Captain Yates told me MLA acquired the ship in 2019. She measures 138 feet (41.1 metres) with a beam of 12.8 metres and draws only 2.2 metres. Her steel hull was built in Fiji while she was complet ed in New Zealand in 2007. Twin 450-horsepower Cumming engines propel the ship.

I walked to the bow and was thrilled with the double bow wave and the saltwater swishing between the hulls. The hissing, foaming water was soothing after the bustle of preparing for the trip and driving the length of Vancouver Island to Port Hardy. As we passed Drake Island, I delighted in the pine scent of the co niferous forests lining the shores and mixing with the briny ocean air. Some time later, I spotted the first sea otter of the adventure, its head above the wavelets while tranquilly floating on its back, completely ignoring us onlookers.

QUATSINO SOUND HAS a wild, haphazard shape with inlets and arms boring deep inland. Coal Harbour is part of Holberg and Rupert inlets with a single exit through a tight channel—aptly named Quatsino Narrows. The ship navi gated through this passage and the sea’s motion changed, with the Pacific’s swells becoming noticeable. While snacking on Quebec-born Chef Jo Carmel’s and sous-chef Antoine’s excellent fare, we learned that most of the pas sengers live in Canada. There was one couple from Lopez Island, and another pair from Jersey, the English Channel island. “We love to travel,” said Mark. “Especially to remote places. Vancouver Island is remote to us even though we keep a boat here.” Others mentioned they chose this voy age because of Cascadia’s small size, the desire to escape the mainland, and the hope to take photos of this mythical

section of coastline.

As we made our way toward the Pacific, it struck me we were voyaging through time—geological eons, Indigenous millennia and European settler centuries—all of which have left their mark—even in the nomenclature. “Quatsino” is the anglicized name of the Gwat’sinuxw people, “Holberg” is named after a Danish historian, and “Rupert” harks back to the Hudson’s Bay trading post, Fort Rupert.

Geologist Rebecca Stirling gave us an informative lecture on the geological history of the area. “The limestone you see in Quatsino was formed in deep ocean layers,” she said. “It’s about 220 million years old. The limestone has been intrud

ed by seafloor volcanics that oozed balloons of magma from the core of volcanoes. The edges cool quickly and sometimes we can see the resulting quartz crystals.”

ON OUR FIRST night we anchored in Koprino Harbour, shielded by Quatsino Provincial Park. We all gathered around the two tables next to the lounge, ate a delicious salade niçoise while becoming further acquainted with our fellow passengers. Remarkably, the entire crew par ticipated in serving meals and cleaning up—including the captain and ship’s engineer.

The next day we went “skiffing”—exploring beaches and

Above: Feeling the wind in your hair.

Left: Traditional salmon roasting.

for up to five minutes. Their webbed feet make move ment on land difficult, but the extreme density of their fur allows them to live permanently in 10°C water. Their fur was so prized that in the 19th century, Brits, Russians and Americans made the long trek to the North Pacific to harvest and trade for pelts and subsequently sold the furs for great profit. The otters were hunted to extinction in BC until 89 of them were reintroduced between 1969 and 1972. They have made a successful return and now have a stable population of about 2,000.

noting their washed-up logs, seaweed, sea asparagus, bar nacles of all sizes, critters dead and alive and the pebbles smoothed and polished by millions of years of erosion. Along the way, we noted several yellow, pulsating blobs— Cyanea capillata, popularly known as lion’s mane jellyfish. They’re among the largest jellyfish and use their extensive, stinging tentacles to capture fish and other sea creatures.

Queen’s University’s John Smol lectured us on sea otters (part of the weasel family) and their role as a keystone spe cies that defines a whole ecosystem. Their weight ranges from 14 to 45 kilograms and they use stones to break up mollusk shells. While diving, they can hold their breath

We circumnavigated Solander Island, an ecological re serve located just off Brooks Peninsula between Quatsino and Kyuquot sounds. This 94-metre-high, 19-acre rock is a bird sanctuary providing habitat for large colonies of burrow-nesting seabirds including the Leach’s storm pe trel, Cassin’s auklet, tufted puffin, and pigeon guillemot. Sea lions also gather on the low-lying rocks. The island is treeless and the side facing the stormy Pacific is barren, while the backside of this big rock is mostly covered by grassy fields and bushes. One corner is made up of gray wacke, a hard, gray sandstone mix of sand and gravel, per haps caused by underwater avalanches eons ago. Near So lander, a series of barely submerged rocks break the Pacific waves into spumy foam.

WE RETURNED SOUTH of Brooks Peninsula to anchor. The Peninsula is a large rectangular piece of rock jutting out into the Pacific and became a Provincial Park in

Learning to make roses from fresh cedar strips.

1995. It was renamed Mquqwin/Brooks Peninsula Provincial Park (sometimes writ ten as Muquin or Muqqiwn) in 2009 to hon our the history and culture of the Kyuquot/ Checleset and Quatsino First Nations.

Another beach excursion allowed us to view the tradi tional Indigenous method of roasting a splayed salmon tied to stakes. MLA’s expedition leader David Pinel has lived and worked in the Kyuquot Sound area for decades and intimately knows the local population, who consti tute the northernmost of the 14 Nuu-chah-nulth First Nation bands. While we were anchored in Clanninick Cove, he brought aboard several Kyuquot First Nation residents who arrived with the roasted salmon we’d seen on the beach.

Lucy and Megan had brought along fresh, pliable ce dar strips and showed us their traditional cedar weav ing. Under their tutelage, we made cedar roses and be gan making baskets. Meanwhile, Tessie (Therese Smith) taught us about the Nuu-chah-nulth language and read from a children’s book in that tongue. Pronunciation of certain sounds is complicated for our English-habituated tongues, but we did learn to say thank you—klakoo.

UNFORTUNATELY, MY HUSBAND David began feeling unwell the day after our arrival. The meds we’d brought for a possible bladder infection (which he’d had before) didn’t work. His illness led to the disappointing decision that he should leave the ship and seek treatment. Captain Yates and Dave Pinel jumped into action and organized a medivac helicopter.

By skiff, we motored to a dock reserved for helicopter

landings outside Kyuquot Village. Within minutes the air ambulance arrived with two paramedics and a pilot aboard. Friendly and professional, they asked questions about David’s medical history, loaded him onto a stretcher, hooked up some saline solution and took off for the Port McNeill Hospital. There was no room for me, so we skiffed back to Cascadia where the crew helped me gather my belongings while chef Jo thoughtfully prepared a lunch for me to take along. Dave Pinel and I again boarded the skiff and we travelled to the Kyuquot Village docks to await a floatplane. Eventually, the floatplane arrived and flew me back to Coal Harbour where our maritime adventure had started just four days ago. A taxi, also ordered by the efficient Cascadia crew, delivered me back to Port Hardy. Fortyfive kilometres later, I arrived at the Port McNeill Hospital and found that David was well looked after. He had a bed, Dr. Anas Toweir was available for discussions and treatment, and the nurses were helpful and professional. David was being hydrated and blasted overnight with intravenous antibiotics. That day, our much maligned and overburdened medical system worked well.

ISLAND

I found an (overpriced) hotel for the night and in the morning, after another consultation with Dr. Toweir, I drove David the 460 kilometres home to Victoria.

WHAT DID WE learn from this experience? Obviously, it was disappointing to leave Cascadia early. But health comes first. We were well cared for by the MLA crew, who knew exactly what to do. The medical system worked the way it’s supposed to and their professionalism reduced the event’s stress. David has fully recovered.

We also discovered how important it is for isolated coastal villages accessible only by boat to have an emergency dock for airlifting medical patients. We are grateful for being able to use that dock.

If you cruise to fairly isolated sounds and fjords, you might check if there are nearby locations where you could be rescued if illness strikes. Have a strong VHF to call for help and a handheld if you need to dinghy to a spot with coverage. An AIS might detect other boats that could relay messages. One word of caution—our Johnson MEDOC travel insurance refused to reimburse our expenses. Why? The usual caveat—they claim it was a pre-existing condition!

COMMERCIAL in the

f you’ve spent time boating in the Gulf Islands in recent years, you may have noticed the presence of a large number of anchored freighters. Currently, 37 commercial freighter anchorages—sites where bulk carriers wait to load, or o oad, cargo including thermal coal, grain, potash and sulphur—exist in the waters around the Gulf Islands. Transport Canada designated the initial 33 of these over ow sites back in the 1970s, for the occasional use of small freighters heading to Vancouver Island. Back then, these anchorages were added without an environmental impact assessment, consultation with First Nations or other coastal residents.

THIS INITIAL LAPSE in oversight is part of what makes the current situation such a problem, explains Bruce McConchie, a long-time property owner on South Pender Island who is also part of a local residents group called the Plumper Sound Protection Association. “Before 2009 only a handful of ships arrived each year,” he says. “Just eight years later, in 2017, there were 184 ships that anchored in Southern Gulf Islands waters. In 2018 that jumped to 287 ships. In 2020, 498 vessels used the anchorages.” And during the November 2021 oods—when BC’s railway system went out of commission, marine tra c backed up— the anchorages reached full capacity.

ANCHORAGES

Salish Sea

By

Now, McConchie says, the anchorages are always busy and freighters are regularly maneuvering through the narrow island channels. “ ey’re here more o en and staying longer,” he says. “So there’s constant noise and bright lights at night. e anchor chains scour the ocean bed, they discharge bilge and other waters and their diesel generators produce an equivalent of 10 tons of CO2 greenhouse gases per day, per vessel.” But the worst risk, says McConchie, is the potential for a catastrophic accident. “On March 30, 2020 two of the ships in Plumper Sound dragged anchor in a storm and ended up tangling anchors and running into each other.”

A report from the Transportation Safety Board of Canada on the incident found that strong winds and a slow response by the crew of the 198-metre Golden Cecilie resulted in the vessel dragging its anchor. By the time crew took action to stop the vessel from dri ing toward the 229-metre Green K-Max 1 it was too late to avoid a collision. e report also noted that between January 2015 and March 2020, there were 102 incidents of ships dragging anchors along BC’s coastline; something McConchie says scares him to death, “this is a fragile environment. It’s not suitable for a freighter anchorage.”

If it seems like there are more freighters in BC waters recently—there are

Diane Selkirk

BALANCING THE NEEDS OF A BUSY PORT

Over 3,000 vessels call at the Port of Vancouver’s 29 major terminals each year. Handling one of the most diversied ranges of cargo in North America— vessels using the port include bulk carriers, container ships, breakbulk carriers, tankers and roll-on roll-o car carriers. With trade demand anticipated to grow, these numbers will continue to increase.

To meet the surging demand for space, the over ow anchorages in the Gulf Islands continue to be used more frequently. When asked, the Vancouver Fraser Port Authority (VFPA) responded to Paci c Yachting with an email that says they are “committed to assigning

[these] anchorages as equitably as possible.” But with increased demand for anchorages due to trade growth and supply-chain disruptions, “ ey provide surge capacity and are necessary to meet Canada’s trade demands.”

Transport Canada (TC) also responded by email, writing that while they continue to study the issue (a process that was meant to take six months starting in 2018), and the Department of Fisheries and Oceans (DFO) conducts research on the environmental impacts of anchoring in the Gulf Islands, the port has been managing 33 anchorage sites in the Salish Sea under what’s called the Interim Protocol for the Use of Southern BC Anchorages.

“ e VFPA assigns anchorages as equitably as possible, subject to individual anchorage size restrictions, using a computerized queuing system that takes into account anchorage usage over the previous 30 days. e objective is to balance the usage, so that no single anchorage is in constant use, ensuring an equitable rotation of use through all suitable anchorages.”

POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS

First Nations, citizens of coastal communities, community groups such as the South Coast Ship Watch Alliance and Islands Trust, and many elected representatives, don’t dispute that the way our shipping system currently

Ladysmith

Trincomali Channel

Houston Passage

Kulleet Bay

Captain Passage

Cowichan Bay

Plumper Sound

Nanaimo

Gulf Island Freighter Anchorages

operates means more anchorages are needed. But in a 2021 letter to Minister of Transport Omar Alghabra, leaders including Green Party MP Paul Manly, Elizabeth May and Chief Roxanne Harris of Stz’uminus First Nation, wrote that this is why the current system needs an overhaul. ey suggested a Vessel Arrival System (VAS) should be put in place to help.

Referencing a 2020 study by the Centre for Marine A airs; Southern Gulf Islands, the letter outlines how freighters sit empty at anchor and run loud engines until it’s time to load, creating “unnecessary emissions [that] aggravate the climate crisis, impact the public health of citizens, threaten the survival of endangered species such as Orcas, and impair the integrity of rare and special marine ecosystems such as those in the Southern Gulf Islands.”

e study suggests that a VAS, like those used in many other jurisdictions, which synchronizes ship arrivals with real-time information from the supply chain, could make a dramatic di erence. e report states:

At the port of Vancouver a Vessel Arrival System of similar e ciency as achieved elsewhere could:

• Cut greenhouse gas emissions by approximately 60,000 tons per year (more than 100,000 tons/yr with shore-to-ship power at bulk terminals);

• Save tens of millions of dollars per year in late loading fees paid by Canadian grain farmers;

• Reduce average anchorage demand to less than half of existing port anchorages.

e study also suggests our current system is less e cient and costs Canadian grain farmers up to $28 million per year due to their products sitting idle as ships wait to be loaded at the Port of Vancouver. While having ships lower their speed to arrive in port on a ‘just in time’ basis could reduce fuel uses and lower emissions.

James Kerr a retired scientist at Environment Canada also points out many of the freighters waiting at anchor are waiting to load with US coal. In a 2019

letter to former Minister of Transport, Marc Garneau, Kerr wrote about the port’s practice of shipping thermal coal mined in the US for use in coal- red power plants in South Korea, Japan or Chile. “Numbers show that 12.8 million tons of dirty thermal coal were shipped in 2018 (up from 11.3 tons in 2017).” He goes on to explain that even though Canada committed to phasing out traditional coal- red electricity by 2030, and pledged up to $275 million to assist developing countries convert to clean energy, we’re still shipping coal, “that is too dirty for Americans to ship themselves.”

PUBLIC ENGAGEMENT

In response to these types of concerns, VFPA set out in 2018 to consult with 25 Indigenous groups, 13 municipal and regional governments and seven Southern Gulf Islands groups to discuss how to balance trade-related needs and community interests.

By May 2022 the port had met with 12 of the groups and published the Port Optimization Initiatives/Active Vessel Tra c Management report which has illustrations that show there are now 37 designated over ow anchorages (an increase of four) spanning the Gulf Islands from southern Gabriola to Saturna Island. Ten anchorages are shown in Trincomali Channel, two in

Kulleet Bay, seven in Ladysmith, three in Houston Pass, eight in Cowichan Bay, two in Captain Passage, and ve in Plumper Sound.

VFPA writes that the port is looking to optimize and digitalize port operations to improve safety and e ciency within the Port of Vancouver. “As cargo volumes in the Port of Vancouver continue to grow, the Port Authority is working to improve the way we manage vessel tra c within the port to support our vision for the Port of Vancouver to be the world’s most sustainable port,” the reports says.

As the rst phase of the consultation process wraps up—First Nations, local communities, environmental groups and citizens like McConchie worry they haven’t been heard. e port appears to be focusing on explaining why the anchorages are needed, how the existing system works and how it came to be. And the new Active Vessel Tra c Management system that’s being proposed appears to be light on speci city.

“Unfortunately for coastal communities, First Nations of the Salish Sea and all British Columbians, there appears to be no thought of reducing or eliminating any of the anchorages currently being used,” says McConchie. “ ere’s no consideration for the environmental impacts, but rather a need to make things more efcient only to increase trade.”

View current ships at anchor in the Southern Gulf Islands, updated every hour. patbaywebcam.com/anchorage.php

ANCHOR WATCH

BY ALEX FOX

Telltales Revisited

More than just a length of yarn

A few years back, or maybe it was ve or six, I wrote an article titled Listen to your Telltales. I’d like to continue that theme, by expanding the de nition of just what quali es as a telltale. Let’s get at it—telltales revisited!

First o , a sailor’s de nition of a telltale might be something along the lines of: A length of yarn or lightweight material stuck to a sail, indicating the imme-

diate air ow at a certain point along the lu , across the body of, or at the leech of a sail. Additionally, telltales may be xed to the shrouds and backstay, to show wind direction and to some degree wind strength. Is that a fair enough de nition? OK, good. So that’s our starting point. Now, let’s expand our frame of reference a bit. Couldn’t anything that provides a clue or indication of air ow, wind direction or strength also be considered a telltale? Perhaps something else on the land, on the water, in the sky. I suppose what I’m suggesting here is that there are a whole bunch of ways to expand our awareness loop beyond the little blue and red dots and woollies on the headsail lu . Let’s explore some of those possibilities a little further.

I’LL BEGIN THIS discussion, with a story from racing in the Van Isle 360 some years ago. I was on a Beneteau 40.7, SW, and we rated somewhere in the middle of the pack. is meant always being aware of where we had to nish relative to the faster and slower rated boats in order to have a good result. One of those competitors, a well sailed 40-footer, owed us a good chunk of time. Our crew was able to learn much by watching them very closely as they almost always led our eet upwind. A little more pressure as they heeled in a building breeze, a suddenly upright rig in a lull or a hole, a big knock and a 15-degree le y, followed by a 10-degree li on starboard; watching them was a glimpse into the future. A running commentary became

part of our process and a er a while, we even began referring to them as Wind Vane. A little cheeky I’ll admit, but using them as another telltale was a huge bene t during the race. e boat’s skipper overheard me referring to them by their nickname at one of the stopovers, “Wind Vane aye, grumble, grumble.” I responded that we were just trying to hang onto them and then thanked him for leading the way. We had a good laugh and I think his crew even began to like their new nickname a er a while… I wonder if they had a nickname for us?

SO, WHAT OTHER things might qualify as a telltale? e most obvious are ags on shore and on other boats, speci cally committee boats. ese will indicate true wind direction as they’re generally stationary. e committee boat o en speaks volumes about not just the true wind direction, but also wind strength in real time. If you pay close attention to the trends, it’s possible to get a sense of what’s to come. e orientation of an anchored committee boat to the true wind direction also provides information on the current, but that’s a topic for another article. Flags can tell you much, from whipping vigorously in a solid building breeze, to hanging limp with barely a tickle and every state in between. Perhaps a lazy wag with an occasional dip, indicating a dying breeze. ere’s lots to see and lots to learn from ags. Don’t forget to look at the pin boat. Is it pointing in a di erent direction and or pressure compared to the committee end? Oh, look it’s 10 degrees le at that end of the line. Further up the course, there’s a cruising boat sailing on a big port tack li , at least compared to the wind we’re currently in. A little farther up the course the ag at the marina seems to be streaming nicely, but from yet another direction, 10 degrees right of the committee boat ags. How ‘bout that! A puzzle to solve for sure, but so much better to have that information than not.

One of the biggest telltales is of course, the water itself. Texture di erences, surface changes, wave patterns, both angle frequency and height all tell a story. Wind doesn’t always show up at water level, especially when it’s rst establish-

ing, but eventually all will be revealed, rst with a single nger of texture, then new zephyrs will touch the water surface. Recognizing a lling or a receding breeze

A good example of this is a le over wave pattern from a dying breeze, with the wind lling from a new direction and not matching the wave angle. e wave pattern will gradually change as one

We make getting out of boat ownership a breeze.

We make getting out of boat ownership a breeze.

Donate your boat in support of our local community of sailors with disabilities and receive a tax receipt for its full market value.

Donate your boat in support of our local community of sailors with disabilities and receive a tax receipt for its full market value.

We call that a win-win.

We call that a win-win.

All boat sale proceeds directly support the Adaptive Sailing Association of BC

All boat sale proceeds directly support the Adaptive Sailing Association of BC

Learn more at www.asabc.org/breeze

wind wins out over the other. Watching this transition as the patterns change, these are telltales, precursors to the pending shi s yet to come in a building or a dying breeze. ere’s always something new to learn.

BACK TO OUR conventional telltales on the sails, shrouds, backstay and of course we can’t forget the masthead y, a most vital source of information. Let’s begin with the sails shall we. For the purposes of this article, we’ll talk sloop rigged boats with both a jib and mainsail. First, the upwind. e jib lu telltales are o en placed at the quarter points from tack to head, 25 percent, 50 percent and 75 percent. ere are several reasons for this: e rst being that as conditions change, a jib may require more or less twist, sheet tension, halyard tension and related forestay

(rig) tension. e jib is very adaptable with the variety of trim controls available. e three sets of telltales paint the ow picture. e jib represents the entry to the sail plan upwind, and so the trim is critical to boat performance. It’s about entry angle, dra position, depth, power generation and ultimately maintaining a groove for a given condition. Get the adjustments right and the telltales will continue to ow and the right balance between pointing and power will be achieved. Too much forestay tension, too at an entry, too much twist, too much sheet or some combination of these things will lead to the leeward telltales in the lower quarter not ying (stalling), or what’s referred to as a narrow groove. Most will have experienced this at some time and it’s quite o en the result of not gearing down and powering up in

advance of a drop in pressure. Your lu telltales will give you hints, like if they get nicky or if the leeward telltales stop owing. As the drop in pressure happens, ease the backstay, create a little more headstay sag, beware of too much halyard, you don’t want a dra forward knuckle, but conversely, don’t ease the halyard o too much, as that will negate the bene ts of headstay sag and atten the entry again. Ease the sheet, get those leeward telltales owing, speed and ow rst, then work up to pointing again. In conjunction with this, the mainsheet must also be eased, in order to keep the leech from closing when the backstay is eased. e leech telltales will tell you the story, get them owing and trim the main in tandem with the jib trim. As the wind continues to die you’ll be generating less power from the rig, lower speeds

mean less li , plus more drag from the underbody. e best reaction to this: Put less focus on pointing and more on speed through the water. As a result of all these things, your apparent wind angle will increase, the masthead y (Windex) will show this.

HAVE A LOOK at your shroud telltales. Are they quite di erent from the Windex? As there is o en a di erence in wind direction at the masthead compared to water level it is not unusual for shroud and Windex to di er. What does this tell us? Well, perhaps there’s a li at the masthead, which requires additional twist to the mainsail. e leech telltales will con rm this is the case when they begin to y again. Oh, and while you’re doing all this don’t forget all the other telltales we’ve talked about. at next wind change is coming…

Donate

NOW, THE DOWNWIND. Telltales will tell you a lot on an asymmetrical spinnaker lu , not so much on a symmetrical. Lu telltales will reinforce good trim habits, like constantly easing when possible in order to establish air ow over the leeward side of the sail— good additional validation for the trimmer and the helmsperson. Shroud telltales are also a big piece of the successful downwind puzzle when small adjustments to trim and course can change the apparent wind angle quickly. Having the shroud telltales in view is an additional reminder of the game at hand, whether that’s to keep the wind on the beam in very light conditions or soaking low in medium air.

Finally, I’m a big fan of using lightweight wool telltales on jibs and spinnakers. Stay telltales should be the very lightest material possible and lon-

ger—maybe 12 inches. Nylon is ne for leech telltales but it tends to utter when it ows, which can be distracting. One last thing, a tribute to my old friend Dennis Jeannes. We’d be sailing in some long-distance race, wind down to zero and Dennis would light up a smoke, hold it up and wouldn’t you know it, there would be a trace of a breeze a er all. I’m not recommending smoking kids, but just saying—one more telltale.

I WONDER IF there’s another sport that uses the word telltale? I don’t think so. As a sailor then, own the telltale, be one with the telltale, revisit and take advantage of every telltale there is, even use the nickname Wind Vane if you want! Enjoy every minute of your time out there. See you on the water sometime soon!

boat…help SALTS transform lives

BY TOM DAVIS

Sockeye Salmon Update

An unsettling year for Fraser River sockeye fisheries

Tsockeye returns ranged from 35 to 50 million annually prior to the 1914 Hell’s Gate slide. The slide, near Boston Bar, reduced the river’s width by an av erage of 30 metres creating a major bar rier for fish travelling upstream.

HIGH EXPECTATIONS FOR 2022’S SOCKEYE RUN

The Fraser River is synonymous with salmon. It provides all five species for Indigenous, commercial and recre ational fisheries of which sockeye re main the most prized.

The 1998 Department of Fisheries (DFO) Stock Status Report D6-01, estimated that historical Fraser River

Considerable slide debris was removed in 1915, but fisheries scientists were still concerned about the remaining volume of material in the river. In the 1940s the International Pacific Salmon Fisheries Commission embarked on Hell’s Gate fishway construction to aid salmon pas sage, but this work was not completed for another two decades. In the years since the slide, over-fishing and, more recently, habitat loss have contributed to a declining trend in Fraser River salmon productivity.

Early 2022 sockeye returns to the Skee na, Columbia, west coast Vancouver Is land and important Alaskan rivers were above estimates. The Columbia River return was the largest since 1938. This led to high expectations for the 2022 Fraser River dominant sockeye cycle.

The Pacific Salmon Commission oversees the implementation of the 1985 Canada-US Salmon Treaty’s principles of conservation, equity and undue disruption to fisheries. Its tech nical committees provide pre-season and in-season estimates of salmon abundances. This information assists commission negotiations and the de velopment of each country’s fishing

Dead sturgeon in a Fraser River gillnet.

Chad Hammond, Chilliwack

plans. The commission’s pre-season estimate of the run size for Fraser River sockeye was 9.8 million fish.

TROUBLE BREWING

In a rare move, the Canadian delegation, citing the precautionary management principle, decided to reject the commission’s run size estimate. Canada did not authorize fisheries on early Fraser sockeye with the exception of First Nations’ Food, Social and Ceremonial fisheries (FSC). The US agreed with the Salmon Commission’s run size assessment and went fishing.

DFO communications advisor, Lara Sloan, confirmed this. “The forecast range for Fraser River sockeye was 2.4 million to 41.7 million, with the median forecast at 9.8 million.” Sloan added that, “based on information presented at the August 18 Fraser River Panel meeting, Canada felt the recommended run size was too high.” Sloan went on to say, “when information is uncertain the precautionary principle sets out the importance of proceeding cautiously.”

The Canadian decision prompted an immediate reaction from the United Fishermen and Allied Workers’ Union who registered their displeasure about Americans fishing while Canadians did not. They also accused Canada of “ignoring clear scientific data” and “abusing the precautionary approach.” The union proposed a small, short duration starter fishery that was denied by DFO.

Fiona Martens, Chief of Fisheries Management for the Salmon Commission, provided this perspective: “The US usually fishes early because once the runs leave US waters they are no longer available.”

Through August there were regular Salmon Commission updates which indicated the early Fraser sockeye runs did perform better than expected. However, commercial and recreational fisheries remained closed, with zero catch of sockeye out of a total US and Canadian First Nations catch of 990,000 by August 30. This increased concerns as fishermen saw apparent

harvestable sockeye pass them by.

Then summer and late run estimates were reduced from 9.8 million to 5.6 million, based on revised test fishing results. This was a significant run size decline.

Shortly after the downward revision the Raincoast Conservation Founda tion and Watershed Watch publicly praised Fisheries Minister Joyce Mur ray for “doing the right thing,” while describing the Salmon Commission as a “stale trade agreement.”

Dr. Carl Walters, professor emeritus at UBC’s Oceans Institute, provided a balanced perspective of the issue. Walters, who has studied Fraser River sockeye extensively noted, “the sockeye life history is too complex and we will likely never have good stock forecasting methods.” He went on to say, “I have published studies on sockeye popula

tion variability and made recommenda tions for developing best [fishery] man agement rules to cope with annual run variations, without making the fishery uneconomical... DFO largely ignored those recommendations.”

A recent report from the North Pa cific High Seas Scientific Expeditions involving Canada, the US and Russia revealed that juvenile sockeye levels were plentiful, but not juvenile sockeye from the Fraser late runs that would have returned in 2022.

After substantially reducing the total sockeye run size, test fishing in early September indicated that late-run sock eye were more abundant than initially thought. In a matter of days, the forecast was increased incrementally from 1.4 million to 2.0 million. The revised estimate allowed First Nations FSC fisheries to continue and provided op

portunities for commercial and recre ational marine and in-river fishing.

Even these openings were met with skepticism ranging from:

• They were under pressure from com mercial interests to open sockeye.

• They should not have opened be cause Salmon Commission estimates are not reliable.

• They should have opened earlier for the abundant early runs.

As of September 16, the total catch of Fraser sockeye was:

• American Fisheries: 318,700

• Canadian First Nations fisheries: 808,800

• Canadian Commercial fisheries: 206,900

• Recreational fisheries: Data N/A to date

November is an off month for salmon anglers, primarily due to poor weather and relatively few legal sized salmon. However, it’s a good time to visit local streams to see the last coho and chum spawning cycles unfold. Make a family day of it and marvel at the grit and determination it takes to bring the next generation of salmon into the world.

TOM'S TIP

ALLEGED POACHING

Then stories of poached sockeye and illegal sales began to circulate, adding to an already confusing situation.

The catching, sale or purchase of salmon without appropriate licensing is illegal. There is a history of this on the Fraser River going back decades, with little consequence for offenders. Rodney Hsu was one of the first to expose this on his ‘Fishing with Rod’ website.

He offered these comments: “There is a poaching problem and the extent is unknown. It needs to be deterred if we want sustainability of our fish, but this is impossible until the government provides adequate support for conservation and protection staff.”

Jesse Zeman is the executive director of the BC Wildlife Federation. According to Zeman much of the blame lies with DFO who, “closed the special investigations unit nine years ago,” thus critically weakening their enforcement capacity. Zeman has brought light to this through numerous mainstream and social media interviews.

Both Hsu and Zeman agree that fish dumps are a sign of illegal activity particularly if the salmon have net marks or have been processed for sale.

DFO’s Lara Sloan confirmed that incidents of illegal sales have been reported. She advises the public to report suspicious activity by calling 1-800-465-4336 toll free or emailing dfo.orr-ons.mpo@dfo-mpo.gc.ca.

SOLUTIONS

On the poaching issue the solutions will be challenging. It all depends on the senior DFO bureaucracy and the Minister of Fisheries properly addressing the lack enforcement capability and then effectively prosecuting offenders. There is no point in applying precautionary fishing measures if poachers are stealing the savings.

During a period when salmon and salmon fisheries are facing multiple challenges nothing is gained by divided scientific conclusions or being so overly

cautious causing fishing opportunities to be wasted. Dr. Walter’s observation, that DFO ignored his recommendations for fine-tuned harvesting, is consistent with the suspicion that the DFO is not good at taking advice. Dr. Richard Beamish, a driving force behind the North Pacific High Seas Expeditions, commented that, “the results from their winter surveys show their value in predicting future salmon returns.” Are DFO and the Salmon Commission paying attention?

WILL SELECTIVE FISHING TECHNOLOGIES HELP?

There are strong views that gillnetting is a wasteful fishing technology because of high mortality rates of nontargeted fish species.

Peter Krahn has 38 years of experience as a chemical environmental engineer. He was also the Pacific and Yukon’s Regional Director of Environment Canada’s Enforcement Division. He is retired and owns Genesis Environmental Sciences.

For the last three years he has been developing a selective fishing system. It’s based on pound net technology, is portable, re-configurable and has virtually no environmental impact on other fish species.

His prototype River Trap, named Stubby 1.0, has undergone testing on the Harrison River. The testing included First Nations participation and support from recreational fisheries. Larger versions are under construction and plans are in the works to expand testing to other major BC in-river salmon fisheries.

According to Krahn, river traps have other applications including fish stock assessment, brood stock capture, habitat reconstruction, search and rescue, and oil spill support and response. This type of technology could provide real solutions for conserving salmon stocks, while allowing for fishing opportunities where mixed stock issues have blocked previous access.

Designed for outdoor living with all the luxury one could want Princess V55 Sedan

Dolf Vermeulen, courtesy Freedom Marine

BY PETER A. ROBSON

TTHIS WAS THE perfect summer to own a Princess V-class yacht, the company’s line of sleek sedans. The V55 shines on those pic ture-perfect days where owners and guests can relax outdoors on the spacious foredeck lounge, in the expansive cockpit and in the airy saloon with a massive sunroof. Add to that, same-level living, luxurious accommodation in three cabins and 2,000 horsepower of get-up-and-go, and the V55 ticks all the boxes.

Plymouth, England-based Princess Yachts has been building yachts in the historic dockyard city since 1965. The company is owned by the huge LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) Group and its subsidiaries. Today, Princess produces 22 yachts, mostly fly bridge models, up to 95 feet (29 metres) and their shipyard covers an area of over 1.1 million square feet. The company is proud to produce most of their components in house, including metal work, wiring harnesses, woodwork and so on. The company’s collabora tion with US-based Princess Yachts America—the distributor of Princess Yachts in North America—ensures that all Princess Yachts destined for North America are built specifically for that market. That means 120 volt/60 Hz wiring and other North American components, so servicing is readily available.

The V Class was first introduced in 1994 and offers seven models from 42 to 80 feet (12.98 to 24.48 metres). The V55 was introduced to the lineup in 2020 and is based on the F55 flybridge model (see PY May 2020 issue). Like it’s siblings, it is characterized by the stylish, reverse sheer at the transom, the swept-back look of the deckhouse and hull windows that stretch almost the entire length of the yacht. The hull and deck are vacuum infused to optimize

1. The sky’s the limit when the massive skylight is open. 2. The full-beam master features huge hull windows, a full-length credenza to starboard and a comfy curved sofa to port. 3. The galley extends seamlessly from the helm to the aft end of the cockpit, providing almost endless prep space.

resin penetration and strength and to save weight, with most molded components finished on both sides, also to save weight and add strength. The re-

sult is all lockers and such are gelcoated for a smooth, clean finish.

ON DECK Real teak planking looks great on the hydraulic swim platform, cockpit, side decks and bow areas giving the V55 a classic look and feel. Stairs to either side of the swim platform lead up to the cockpit. In between, a tender garage with an electro-hydraulic door and an easy-to-use tender launch system incorporates an electric winch. Inside the

Dolf Vermeulen, courtesy Freedom Marine

garage on the test boat was a sweet 11foot, three-inch (3.45-metre) Williams SportJet tender with a 100-horsepower Rotax jet drive. To starboard, accessed by a hatch in the stairs, is an optional crew cabin with head, but realistically, it is too small for that purpose and is better suited for extra storage.

The cockpit furnishings are nicely curved—not blocky and square (this extends to the interior furnishings as well). There are no sharp edges anywhere on the V55, which is rare, and it not only looks great, but serves as an added safety feature. The overall design should keep the V55 in style for a long time. The cockpit is highlighted by a sunpad that extends over the transom and backs up against the forward-facing lounge seat. Ahead of that, a portside Lshaped lounge is fronted by a large, wellcrafted hinged wooden table. This is

unusual as cockpit tables are usually po sitioned in front of the forward-facing lounges, not fore and aft, but it works and provides more seating (with folding chairs) than the standard configuration. I especially liked the L-shaped (but mostly linear) galley that extends seam lessly from the helm to the aft end of the cockpit, providing almost endless food prep space. The portion in the cockpit is both a wet bar and grill, with icemaker and drawer fridge. A starboard wing station offers a second set of controls— great for docking. Overhead, an electric awning provides further protection from the weather and can be supported by removable posts that provide added security in windy conditions. Another smart idea is the fixed side windows in the cockpit, designed to help deflect wind from the cockpit.

The side decks were a tiny bit narrow

for my liking, though not to the point of being an access or safety issue. It’s al ways a trade-off—wider saloon or wid er side decks. Up on the bow is a nicely styled sunpad and lounge area with lots of graceful curves. A passageway sepa rates the forward-facing lounge and the sunpad. The sunpad has hinged portions so that it can be configured as an aft facing lounge with backrests. An optional table and awning between the two will make for a cosy entertaining area. Under the seating areas are several very large storage lockers.

INTERIOR The saloon is entered though a clever door mechanism that slides to port and drops down under the deck—completely out of the way.

To starboard, dividing the galley coun terspace, a hinged glass window opens the space even more. The result is a

The helm is well laid out with twin 16-inch Garmin touch screens and Volvo-Penta’s digital engine readout.

truly seamless, same-level transition be tween cockpit and saloon.

Inside the test boat, the teak gives way to engineered wood flooring and a pleasing mix of gray cabinetry, white solid surface countertops, off white leather sofas, wood tables and satinfinished walnut woodwork. Overhead is plenty of headroom and the sky’s the limit when the massive skylight is open. Solid expanses of smoked glass offer ex cellent views outside.

To port of the entry, a pop-up 50-inch TV rotates 180 degrees so guests can be entertained from the cockpit or saloon. A U-shaped lounge runs the length of the port side, fronted by an impressive wood table with hinged panels. It raises and lowers with the push of a button.

As noted, the galley runs the length of the starboard side. It offers abun dant counterspace. The test boat was equipped with a four-burner induction cooktop (induction cooktops are now almost standard), both an under coun ter door fridge and drawer fridge/freez er, dishwasher, convection microwave, sink with garbage disposal, wine cooler and dedicated glass and plate storage— all the comforts of home, and more. One interesting option not on the test boat is a corner pop-up cabinet that hides out of sight and raises at the push of a button, and this allows even more storage space than the already plentiful

drawers and cabinets.

The helm area will please even the most discerning driver for its clean, functional and ergonomic layout. That includes sliding helm seats, an adjustable steering wheel, twin 16-inch Garmin touch screens, plus Volvo-Penta’s digi tal engine readout. While the Garmins are touch screen, there is also a manual keypad which should come in handy in rough waters when putting your fingers on the exact place on the screen might be difficult. Also well placed are the proportional bow and stern thruster controls (with a hold-against-the-dock function) and the joystick, throttle and shift levers. An adjacent electric win dow will help with visibility when dock ing and, of course, airflow.

SPECS

LOA 17.81 m / 58' 5"

Beam 4.66 m / 15' 3"

Draft 1.4 m / 4' 7"

Disp (approx.) 31,194 kg / 68,770 lbs

Fuel 2,500 L / 660 USG

Water 477 L / 126 USG

Holding 300 L 79 USG

Power Twin Volvo D13 1,000 hp diesels

Built by Princess Yachts International Plymouth, England princessyachts.com princessyachtsamerica.com

Sold in Western Canada by Freedom Marine Vancouver, Sidney, North Vancouver 604-609-0985

Sold in Washington by Princess Yachts Seattle Silver Seas Yachts 206-745-4554

more than six feet (1.8 metres) of head room throughout is a real plus—as most masters only offer partial head room. The en suite is accessed via a sliding door at the entry to the master. Besides the requisite electric head, the shower compartment is surprisingly spacious. A washing machine is across from the en suite.

ACCOMMODATION

Leather wrapped handrails lead to a foyer and the three staterooms and two heads, each with separate shower. Curves in the horizontally-grained, molded wal nut panelling not only add to the luxu ry, but also provide additional structur al support and again, there are no hard edges anywhere.

The full-beam master is brightened by huge hull windows, a full-length cre denza to starboard and comfy curved sofa to port. A sizable hanging locker and multiple drawers mean there will be no shortage of clothes storage while

The VIP stateroom is in the bow and is somewhat unique with its tastefully curved headboard which offers addi tional length to the island berth which can be ordered with twin “scissor” berths or a single queen. There’s ample light from large hull windows. Good storage is in four under-berth drawers as well as hanging lockers. Another bonus is the fixed mirror and vanity unit that can be used when sitting on the corner of the bed. There’s also an en suite door to the second head which also serves the third cabin and as a day head. The third cabin is also nicely furnished with twin bunk beds and good storage.

POWER AND SYSTEMS The engine room is accessed from a hatch in the

Dolf Vermeulen, courtesy Freedom Marine

cockpit sole. Power is twin Volvo-Penta D13 1,000-horsepower diesels with shaft drives, dripless self-aligning shaft seals and five-blade props. Even here, the headroom is a generous six feet (1.8 metres). Although partially impacted by the tender garage, there is good access all around the diesels. All electrical appears to be properly supported and mostly tucked neatly out of sight. A 21.5 kW Onan generator is standard and heat and cooling are by a reverse cycle system. The test boat was fitted with a Seakeeper 6 gyro stabilizer—a very nice option to keep the yacht on the level.

UNDERWAY We left Coal Harbour with Freedom Marine broker Mike Murdoch at the helm, guiding us expertly from our tight mooring. The joystick utilizes both props and both the

proportional hydraulic bow and stern thrusters, though the latter can be used independently. When in station holding mode, the shifting of the Volvos was barely noticeable. The combined 2,000-horsepower provided powerful acceleration. Bow rise was insignificant and the auto trim tabs take the finessing out of trim. For a vessel of this size, it has the sporty feel and handling of a smaller vessel. There was no cavitation or slipping and no squeaking and rattling, and interior noise was negligeable. The driving position was comfortable and the steering light and precise. At a displacement cruise speed of nine knots (910 rpm) the V55 sipped only 9.9 gallons per hour (37.5 lph), while on the plane at 25 knots, the fuel burn was 59 gallons per hour (223 lph). We found an economical and comfortable

cruise at about 28 knots. At wide-openthrottle, with 78 percent fuel in the tanks, our top speed was 35 knots.

CONCLUDING REMARKS Overall, the V55 is a real delight to drive and easy to operate. It comes with all the bells and whistles one could want. Princess yachts are known for their highquality construction and comfortable ride, even in rough seas. In addition, the styling of the V55 is much more likely to stand the test of time than flavour-of-the-day yachts. According to Murdoch, many Princess owners are repeat customers who are loyal to the Princess brand, and who can appreciate the many well-thought-out and practical features—and of course, the luxury. The test boat is currently being offered, as equipped, for $2.95 million.

AN OCEAN OF OPPORTUNITY AWAITS

AZIMUT 55 FLYBRIDGE

SEATTLE | 206.344.8566

NEWPORT BEACH | 949.515.7700

SAN DIEGO | 619.294.2628

FORT LAUDERDALE | 206.963.6543

A Higher Standard of Excellence.

ALEXANDER MARINE USA offers an unrivaled premier selection of new yachts on the West Coast, as well as an extensive selection of pre-enjoyed yachts from coast to coast. Our promise is to put you in the ideal yacht to match your discerning lifestyle. From initial contact to final contract, our expert staff will serve with integrity, competence, and confidentiality. Join us on the journey to making your yacht dreams a reality. Contact us today to get started...

Arctic Raven 2003 SAGA 48 $325,000

Arctic Raven is a performance cruising sloop designed by Robert H. Perry. This SAGA 48 (hull #2) was launched in 2004 by SAGA Marine in St Catherines, Ontario, Canada and was awarded Cruising World’s “Best Full-sized Cruiser” that year. She continues to thrive and impress today. Designed to be sailed shorthanded, both above-deck and below-deck spaces provide for luxurious, comfortable, and easily navigated movement. Power winches for sail management, dual helms, and the space to move in the cockpit make sailing a dream. The headroom and light below are unique. The raised interior navigation position turns rainy northwest days into warm and dry cruising time. The forward cabin sports a king-sized berth, storage, and its own head. The galley is efficient with refrigerator, freezer, and four-burner Force-10 range. Arctic Raven’s owner has lavished improvements on her over the past three years, including new standing rigging, B&G radar and chartplotter, new Perry designed carbon rudder, rebuilt Westerbeke engine and extensive other systems upgrades.

www.swiftsureyachts.com 206.378.1110 | info@swiftsureyachts. com 2540 Westlake Ave. N., Ste. A Seattle WA 98109 facebook.com/swiftsureyachts

The 500 FLY is one of Galeon’s most award-winning and innovative yachts. The model sets benchmarks with its ever-popular Beach Mode, comprised of fold-out side decks. Optional rotating aft seat with garage underneath acts as a luxurious complement to space. On the flybridge, guests can take advantage of high-level features like a wetbar, sundecks, and a second, state-of-the-art helm station.

The 500 FLY is one of Galeon’s most award-winning and innovative yachts. The model sets benchmarks with its ever-popular Beach Mode, comprised of fold-out side decks. Optional rotating aft seat with garage underneath acts as a luxurious complement to space. On the flybridge, guests can take advantage of high-level features like a wetbar, sundecks, and a second, state-of-the-art helm station.

grandyachts.com

Founded in 1976 Grand Yachts Inc. was formed with a vision of representing the finest cruising yachts in the Pacific Northwest. Over 45 years we have built a team of experienced, professional yacht brokers who focus on client satisfaction.

BUYING OR SELLING?

Sellers and buyers both benefit from a BCYBA member’s experience. BCYBA brokers assist buyers to find suitable boats in the local market or further afield in the international market. Similarly, they present locally owned boats for sale to local and international buyers.

Take the stress out of purchasing or selling your boat. A BCYBA broker is your guide through a successful transaction. They help in these ways:

• Identify and evaluate yachts of interest.

• Provide experience in negotiating acceptable sale terms.

• Ensure your deposit stays in Canada.

• Outline vessel documentation, title, importation, insurance and taxation issues.

• Utilize strong working relationships with co-operating brokers, marine surveyors, marine mechanics, boatyards and other key industry contacts.

• Provide local follow up to help you in your boating adventures.

Strata Lot 30 is a very special 2.42 acres with 291 ft east facing oceanfront, incredible sunrises, sunsets provide splendid light on the view. A short walk from the dock and swimming hole. Gentle slope to the ocean, easy trail access to the water’s edge, beautifully treed with fir, cedar and arbutus Shared well with choices for building site. Marina, airstrip, and island caretaker. $528,000

QUATSINO 90 ACRE OCEAN AND LAKE FRONT PROPERTY

90 acres, 2 titles 1,150 ft oceanfront in Hecate Cove and 1,850 ft lakefront on Colony Lake in Quatsino on the west coast of Vancouver Island. Road goes through property. May have subdivision potential. Substantial mature timber, some cedar, no estimate of volume. $1,800,000

6 ACRES OF SKEENA RIVERFRONT BARE LAND - HAYSPORT, BC

Exciting opportunity! You can own six acres, on seven bare land titles on the Skeena River. The properties are water access and are located on both sides of the Canadian National Railway. Great as a land investment or jumping off spot for fishing adventures. $49,000

Brand new 1,700 sq. ft. log cabin tucked amongst the

$899,000

Oceanfront, ocean view

wilderness

ranging from 3.5 to 7 acres located at the gateway to world renowned boating destination, Desolation Sound, just minutes from Lund on the Sunshine Coast. Road accessible with power available. No building permit process required. All lots share access to 400 metres of pristine, private beachfront. An incredible place to relax and retreat. The ultimate place for you and your family to unplug and connect with nature. Limited availability. Only 9 lots being released in Phase I with introductory pricing from $349,000 to $479,000

RICHARD OSBORNE Personal Real Estate Corporation 604-328-0848 rich@landquest.com

Unique opportunity to be fully self-sufficient living on the water with all of the comforts of living on the land. 2008 2,460

SIDNEY ISLAND OCEANFRONT SOUTHERN GULF ISLANDS BC

Two bedroom home with 120 ft of oceanfront in the protected waters of Hunts Inlet, Porcher Island. Close to Prince Rupert, access is by float plane or boat. The home is powered by solar panels and generators. Perfect launching pad to fish and recreate! $189,000

6.26 ACRE OCEANFRONT HOME HUNTS INLET - PORCHER ISLAND, BC

Profitable RV Park on the outskirts of Victoria close to all amenities. This park consists of 66 fully serviced sites, 25 storage sites, office building with showers and laundry facilities and a 2,400 sq. ft. home on 12 acres. The primary infrastructure was recently built, completed in 2018. The park is fully occupied with a waiting list for sites to come available. $5,100,000

TUNNEL HILL CAMPGROUND & RV PARK MALAHAT, BC

JOHN ARMSTRONG Personal Real Estate Corporation 250-307-2100 john@landquest.com

trees along the banks of the renowned Sheridan Lake. This incredible lakefront opportunity is a rare find. An additional cabin with space for 2 beds and all the upgrades needed to ensure a comfortable stay yearround.

JOHN ARMSTRONG Personal Real Estate Corporation 250-307-2100 john@landquest.com

Don't miss this custom built, brand new 4bed/4bath home in one of Madeira Park's loveliest & quietest locations, steps to Baker Beach, one of the area's finest!

Madeira Park • $1,850,000

Immaculately maintained waterfront home on a quiet cul-de-sac in Halfmoon Bay! Spectacular ocean & island views are front & centre from this lovely 2bed/2bath home

Halfmoon Bay • $1,650,000

lakefront acreage! This is one of the last large acreages (13.88) on Hotel Lake, featuring unobstructed & panoramic lake views & sunshine.

Garden Bay • $1,398,000

Very private low bank waterfront just mins to Sechelt! Easy access to the pristine beach from this 2,800+ sq.ft. recently reno'd Rancher with level entry access.

Sechelt • $2,299,000

Immaculately maintained waterfront home! This lovely 3bed/2bath West Coast home is bright and sunny and offers spectacular ocean & island views.

Halfmoon Bay • $1,800,000

1st

Ruby Lake • $1,699,000

Gorgeous waterfront home with easy access into the ocean for swimming or launching a kayak, as well as stunning, unobstructed ocean/ island views!

Garden Bay • $1,998,000

West Coast Oceanfront: 3.56 acres in the Hot Springs Oceanside development north of Tofino on Vancouver Island’s west coast. Nicely forested, diverse shoreline including a peninsula and bay. Protected location, southern exposure. Water access only. $159,900

Centre Island : 110 acre private island in Esperanza Inlet, west coast Vancouver Island. Numerous little bays, peninsulas, and bluffs. Oneroom cabin plus workshop, fresh water ponds, complement of equipment. Quick access to the open west coast! $1,790,000

BOATERS, AND LOVERS OF THE SEA, YOU WILL DELIGHT IN THIS OCEANFRONT RETREAT

740 Sea Drive. MLS. 913303.

Designed with floor-toceiling glass on 3 levels to provide uninterrupted VIEWS, scarlet SUNSETS and an ever-changing vista of wildlife and SAILS! Come to the west side where warm Beaches, Butchart Fireworks, crab, and prawn fishing are nature’s gift to you –The renown Brentwood Bay Lodge, Blue’s Bayou restaurant, convenient Mill Bay Ferry and much more combine with 3,750 sq ft of CUSTOM-BUILT Living (incl. a LEGAL NEW 1-bed room SUITE, crafted with no expenses spared!) to ensure that all your friends want to visit! An abundance of accommodation including a new roof, and 105 feet of Ocean frontage overlook ing Daphne Island, PLUS a private DEEP-WATER DOCK with Foreshore Licence is a very rare jewel indeed! Imagine tying up your sailboat from your very own dock, complete with water and power. Natural gas has been run to the property. Book your viewing soon to make sure that your Ocean front dreams do come true!

Welcome to Waterlea

THIS FAMED HISTORIC PROPERTY IS A RARE JEWEL situated just minutes from the ferry on North Pender Island. A boater’s sanctuary, the Gulf Islands are known for their gorgeous vistas, calm waters, safe harbours and marinas. Waterlea is 3.5 acres of peninsula waterfront with ocean and sandy beaches on 3 sides and an ultra rare +/-1 acre private island. Featuring Canada’s first olive grove with 80+ olive trees. The presence of thriving olive trees is evidence of the warm, arid micro-climate of the area. Over 2300 feet of low bank ocean frontage makes this truly one of a kind. The 112 year old manor is a rustic farmhouse that sits just feet away from the water’s edge and boasts dramatic aquatic views from every principal room. The separate cottage sits at the high water mark, making it more boat than house. Sit back on the deck and watch the otters play, the eagles soar, and the orcas swim through the kelp beds. For those who know...it’s “paradise, actually!”

CCG rules. The tender’s underside should be aluminum to avoid the inevitable damage done when going to shore, and there needed to be a dog. Any barking dog would do, but a large dog that held a lot of water when wet was preferred. The dog should not have a life jacket. At a pinch, a Siamese cat could stand in for the dog.

A good skipper also needed to have a good working relationship with a boat insurance broker. This person should know nothing about boats or insurance, which isn’t difficult. That way, you both start out on even footing.

The skipper would have a partner who understands the many and various rules regarding the number of waterproof flashlights, flares, fire extinguishers and lights the vessel required. As these dictates changed regularly, it was vital the partner stayed up to speed on them. Or you could change your partner at least every five years. That same partner should be happy to get a replacement diesel injector, or a set of solar panels for birthday presents.

A good skipper should also have a wide knowledge of other marine craft. They should definitely have a subscription to Paci c Yachting and a membership at some Royally designated yacht club, even if they never set foot in the club house. For that reason, some $350 deck shoes and a navy blazer with an anchor on the breast pocket went a long way toward making an impression.

Did such a skipper exist? It was highly unlikely. Around about then someone pointed out there was a beautiful sunrise, and the discussion was closed until further notice.

Have a funny or interesting

Cockpit Confession is a readersubmitted column and we are always looking for another good yarn. Send your 600-word story to editor@pacificyachting.com. We’ll send you a T-shirt!

What Makes a Good Skipper?

BY RICK HUDSON

for a good skipper?

First Nations art on it scored big points.

A bunch of the guys had been in the pub till closing time, and then moved to Charlie’s boat, where they contin ued the conversation with the help of a few bottles. It was at a philosophi cal hour well past midnight when the discussion turned to what makes a good skipper. Before this question was raised, the conversation had been lag ging, but the subject brought everyone back into focus. What, indeed, made

ABoat handling skills and official ac creditation in the form of paper docu ments were both quickly dismissed as lacking any depth and not guarantee ing experience. Having a good boat was likewise rejected in short order. The measure of a skipper was that they could operate any form of watercraft, whether it be a catamaran, schooner, trawler or tug. The boat was nothing more than the tool to get the job done.

On the other hand, the boat’s inte rior décor was important. Cushions of a nautical theme, a painting of a lighthouse somewhere up or down the coast, and one of those carved wooden intertwining dolphin sculptures from Bali, mounted prominently on a wall, were an asset. Any dining table with

By comparison, having a bow thrust er, or twin screws was really irrelevant to a skipper’s skills. Having a compe tent partner to serve as admiral, deck hand and line-catcher was just ostenta tion, and was likewise discarded.

At some point in the evening, or perhaps it was already morning, con sensus was reached that the measure of a good skipper was having a decent tender, preferably with a four-stroke rather than a two-stroke. In the dinghy there should be a rusty crank handle from some trailer long lost, and two crushed PFDs that had been sat upon and sunburned beyond recognition, but still qualified as flotation under

THE BOLD DNA OF PERFORMANCE

Azimut S6 is the second model in the new S generation sports range from Azimut, featuring the extensive use of carbon for its construction and representing another milestone in the shipyard’s pioneering research and development work. The combination of Carbon Tech and a propulsion system with three Volvo Penta IPS pods puts the yacht at the forefront of technology in its category, with the ability to achieve unprecedented levels of efficiency combined with peerless handling and silent running. Spacious interiors with decisive lines make for a sport-oriented but welcoming lifestyle.

OFFICIAL DEALERS

USA: Alexander Marine USA , alexandermarineusa.com CANADA: Fraser Yacht Sales, fraseryachtsales.com

For other countries find your local dealer on azimutyachts.com

Scan the QR Code to see the model brochure