Facing the Pandemic Elderberry Grove Biodynamics COVID-19 Survey Answers
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6 Publisher's View – Lisa Olson 7 Wineries & Orchards Face the Pandemic Photo by Bella Wines
8 COVID-19 Survey
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The original Bella from Bella Wines.
13 Clean Farms Celebrates 10 Years 15 Y oung Agrarian Mentorship for Elderberry Grove 17 B ella Wines: Unique Méthode Ancestrale Sparkling Wines 19 B iodynamics – The Soil Knows What it Needs 21 Legal Libations – Denese Espeut-Post 23 Marketing Mix – Leeann Froese
Photo by Stags Hollow
25 Rules of the Game – Ernie Keenes
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Stags Hollow has been offering socially-distanced parking lot pick-ups. 4
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28 The Word on Wine – Carie Jones 30 Canadian Winemaker Series: Andrea Barker Cover photo collage: Skaha Bench by John Adrian courtesy of Wines of British Columbia, winebc.com, foreground image of woman wearing a mask by dreamstime.com.
Photo by Tom Walker
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PUBLISHER’S VIEW | LISA OLSON
Changes and Pivots
W
e’ve come this far in 2020, a year we will always remember. By now we have likely experienced many different emotions, fear, worry, anxiety, stress, sadness, and possibly anger. Hopefully, most of us also felt gratitude, love, appreciation, safety and calm. We are all living in uncharted territory with the pandemic; something none of us have experienced before.
Vol. 61, No 3 Summer 2020
How do we pivot our business during this time? Like a leaf floating down a stream, do we take cover by moving off to the side in a calm little pool, then come out with speed and velocity to make our way downstream, forming a new path through the obstacles in our way?
Graphic Design
A topic that is currently relevant is the various uses of elderberries. Used as a healthy tonic, this syrup is gaining attention. I personally have a bottle in my fridge and at the first sign of a cold or feeling run down I take a few doses. Works for me! You may have seen numerous postings on social media of people enjoying Bella wine, read about this popular bubbly and their story inside.
Publisher Lisa Olson Editor Gary Symons
Stephanie Symons Photo by Kimberly Brooke Photography
This edition was uncharted for us as well. Do we ignore what is going on and proceed to publish articles about farming, or do we ask you what is happening in your life and business and report on that? We decided to do both, so we posed a number of questions to wineries, growers and suppliers to gain insight and connect you with the thoughts of the collective. We hope you find it comforting and insightful to hear how others are doing.
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Plus, now more then ever, our own food supply is of the utmost importance; perhaps you might want to integrate some of the Biodynamic methods to your growing techniques as detailed on page 19. Lastly, during this period let’s try to be respectful of each other during this time of change and uncertainty. Feelings of safety are individual; let’s try to be sensitive to others, as we don’t know what it is like walking in another person’s shoes. Stay safe, share your kindness and we’ll come out the other side stronger than before.
Contributors Michael Botner, Denese Espeut-Post, Leeann Froese, Carie Jones, Ernie Keenes, Kimberly Brooke Photography, Ronda Payne, Tom Walker Advertise lisa@orchardandvine.net Phone: 778-754-7078 Orchard & Vine Magazine Ltd. 22-2475 Dobbin Road Suite #578 West Kelowna, BC V4T 2E9 www.orchardandvine.net Phone: 778-754-7078 Fax: 1-866-433-3349 Orchard & Vine Magazine is published six times a year and distributed by addressed mail to growers, suppliers and wineries in BC and across Canada. Publications Mail Agreement No. 40838008 Undeliverable copies should be sent to: 22-2475 Dobbin Road Suite #578
Providing Canadian Grapevine Solutions BRITISH COLUMBIA Nathan Phillips p. 250-809-6040 bcsales@vinetech.ca 6
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Wineries and Orchards Face the Pandemic
I
t’s hard to believe that just six months ago people had never heard of Covid 19, but today the coronavirus now defines every aspect of our lives. We questioned those from the industry on how they are dealing with the pandemic, and found that most are managing, but are justifiably fearful for the future.
Results were similar for fruit growers, with 72 per cent saying they are concerned about future product sales, 44 per cent concerned about the financial viability of their farms, and 39 per cent worried about servicing their debts during the pandemic.
Photo by Okanagan Crush Pad
One grower added that it’s hard to run a profitable farm during the pandemic, saying, “The rules being imposed on our farm business appear to be at a much
Many companies like OCP started to produce hand sanitizer to help with the shortage.
Spring bottling at Stags Hollow Winery with the crew all wearing masks.
higher level than other businesses that remain open, and far above any restrictions on the public,” while another said, “We have challenges training staff, (and there’s) not enough for summer staff to do if growers pull out of export programs because there’s no labour to pick fruit.” Another important question we asked was regarding the safety of families and employees and 46% of winery operators felt safe day to day, an equal number said both yes and no to feeling safe, and 72% of growers felt safe due to there are not many others working in their vicinity.
Photo by Black Widow Winery
The key for wineries has been adapting to the lockdown by finding new ways to sell product. While most were already selling online, more than two-thirds said their online and wine club orders have increased. Wineries have adopted curbside pickups, home delivery, offered discounts and free shipping, and many have organized virtual events or tastings.
Photo by Stags Hollow Winery
Almost all (93 per cent) of winery owners or managers told us they are most worried about lost revenue and 75 per cent worry cash flow won’t cover expenses this year. “Future sales look iffy,” said one winery operator. “We are very dependent on tasting room sales from May long weekend through October.”
“In the workplace, we all feel safe. Early on, we adopted new distancing and disinfecting protocols as well as closing the doors to any non-staff members. The entire staff limited any time in public, shopping as needed while another practices a high level of immune boosting, microbiome enhancing and natural pre and probiotic intake."
shortages are a major concern, as 44% of growers and 39% of wineries employ foreign workers who have had difficulty getting to Canada. At the time of the survey, 34% had their foreign workers in place.
The other big concern about workers was whether the farm would have enough labourers to raise and harvest this year’s crop, with 47 per cent of fruit growers and 36 per cent of wineries saying labour
“We’re still waiting to hear what the national decisions will be on Covid,” said one grower, and others said they approved and found it helpful to have the 14-day quarantine done in a central location.
Black Widow Winery offers curbside ordering. Call and they will assemble the order while the customer waits in the car.
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î Ž SUMMER | GROWER & WINERY COVID-19 SURVEY What have you been concerned about regarding your farm business or winery? 93% Lost revenue
PPE availablity is a major concern
75% Cash flow
Do you have these items available?
72% Future sales 48% Sickness
Hand sanitizer 87%
48% Worker safety
Disinfectant 85% Masks 60%
46% Layoffs
Plexiglass or distancing markers 20%
43% Business closure
Infrared thermometer 20%
43% Labour shortages
34%
43% No large gatherings 41% Debt servicing 37% Mental health 33% Delivering products
Will apply for the new funding to farmers announced May 5
22% Receiving supplies
The Temporary Foreign Worker Program
47% Employ Foreign Workers
34% Have foreign workers in place now
80% Were worried workers would not be able to enter Canada
None of the above 4%
56% Plan to plant extra food related crops for sale or personal use.
How are you selling wine during this time of shutdown? Curbside pick-ups 86% Free shipping 86% Discounts 68% Wine Club 64%' Door to door delivery 61% Virtual tasting events 39%
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“We are hoping to hire two or three back, depending on what the parameters are for the tasting room,” said one winery operator, so it is possible the reopening of BC businesses will see some jobs return. Not surprisingly, given the stress of managing a business during the lockdown, 37 per cent of respondents were worried about mental health issues cropping up during the pandemic.
One big difference between growers and wineries is that very few growers (19%) intend to apply for new funding (May 5th) from the federal government, This may mean the larger accent on retail consumer sales for wineries has caused their businesses to be hit harder in the early days of the pandemic. One grower insisted the aid is important for those who need it, although he doesn’t intend to apply personally. “I think the farmers should have funding to help through this pandemic,” he said, but added, “We do not carry enough debt to warrant having to pay back the government.”
Photo by Leo Gebert
On the other hand, 46 per cent of wineries are also worried about having to lay off staff, as wineries have been closed to consumers for months.
Leo Gebert from St. Hubertus, staying safe.
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SUMMER | GROWER & WINERY COVID-19 SURVEY Have you experienced any “gifts” during this slowed down period? A great deal more focus on growing things, better connections to family, and more distance from the wastes of time and materials that occur in society. Yes, time spent working with our children while they are home from school has been great (and challenging) but mostly great.
Photo by OCP
Yes, this pandemic forced us to re-evaluate our business processes and how we needed to re-adjust our business model so that we could "weather the storm" during this turbulent time. Virtual wine tasting with Okanagan Crush Pad.
85% Say their wine club membership or amount of orders have increased The other group impacted by Covid 19 is the industry suppliers who sell products and services, 75% of the businesses surveyed have been designated an ‘essential service’. Almost half (46%) of suppliers were still able to deliver their products with 33% saying they were experiencing “business as usual.” Although, two-thirds said their sales had decreased compared to last year, with one supplier saying, “Our revenues have been severely impacted,” another indicated, “They had sales ‘on the books’ prior to the pandemic.”
This winery reached out to provide some mental health support on Facebook "If you are in isolation alone, in Canada, and you are lonely, and fell the need to talk to a human... to cheer you or just to commiserate with Castoro de Oro Estate Winery and we will find some time to give you a call... mental health is so important. We care." A couple of customers who were very lonely took us up on our phone chats to keep them from feeling isolated.
Photo by St. Hubertus & Oak Bay Estate Winery
While 69% of respondents had no company layoffs, some continued to work from home and had staff at their building, but, “We are limiting access to the inside of our building, with locked doors and having walk-ins or pickups call the inside sales staff for assistance.” Orchard & Vine also asked readers if they had experienced any gifts during the pandemic, they expressed that they appreciated, the extra family time, especially with kids out of school, time to walk the dog, catching up on office work, improved their online communications and more time to think and plan for the future Other respondents said the lockdown has left them overworked and overwhelmed because they had less staff and more work, working 10-hour days. ”We've had to lay off staff or not hire new staff, leaving us to take on all tasks. The vines don't stop because of Covid-19.” Yet another said he was dreaming of a time when things slow down. "We have been just as busy,” he said. “I would like the gift of a slower period." Overall, the survey appears to show suppliers and wineries have been hardest hit in the early days of the pandemic, with one supplier saying his revenue was down 35 per cent, and a winery operator saying, “Our wine shop sales have decreased dramatically and our restaurant sales are zero.” Another added, “I 10 Summer 2020
Leo Gebert physically distancing from the wine pouring.
How many local staff did you layoff or decide not to rehire? No layoffs 22% 1-3 layoffs 44% 4-10 layoffs 30% Over 10 layoffs 4%
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SUMMER | INDUSTRY SUPPLIERS COVID-19 SURVEY How has your business been operating? 46% Able to deliver products 34% Working from Home 33% Business as usual 25% Partially Working from Home Photo by Leo Gebert
20% Warehouse is still open 15% Working in the office 3% Closed Masking up at St. Hubertus.
think this summer is a write off,” while a third predicted, “I think locals will support local businesses more but that will be a drastically small number compared to the tourists we normally see coming to our valley.” As the country opens up for business, one winery owner is expecting the status quo for remainder of year, a very slow re-opening and with a totally different atmosphere in tasting room. With all the safety measures in place, tastings will be different. Advice from another is, do not live a fear-based existence. Be smart, wash your hands, stay your distance. All in all, work to accommodate everyone's needs, as they all differ.
30% of suppliers have had layoffs How have sales been during these past 6 weeks compared to last year?
For more of our survey responses visit www.orchardandvine.net
75% of suppliers were deemed an essential service. How are you communicating with your customers? 97% email
66% Decreased
12% Increased
20% Stayed the Same
94% Phone 53% Text 41% In person visits/physical distancing 38% Zoom, Skype, Face Time 35% Social Media 28% Newsletter
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Cleanfarms Celebrates 10 Years!
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To celebrate its 10th Anniversary, the agricultural recycling company Cleanfarms is looking at what’s next? Over a decade of program operations, Cleanfarms has recovered 51,600 tonnes of plastic and other non-organic agwaste from Canada’s agricultural sector for recycling or proper disposal. These materials consist of empty agricultural plastic jugs and containers; used grain bags; empty seed, pesticide and fertilizer bags; and old, unwanted pesticides and livestock/equine medications. “We recognize that we have a moral obligation to farmers and other Canadians to leave our world as good or better environmentally then when we began,” says General Manager Barry Friesen, as Cleanfarms marks its 10th anniversary in 2020 with the unveiling of an anniversary logo. Friesen admits that with an estimated 40,000 tonnes of plastic generated in the agricultural sector annually, recovering it with a zero-waste mindset is a tall order, but promises Cleanfarms is “just getting started”. This spring, Cleanfarms gets underway with a first-of-its-kind national scale research project that will provide critical information to help agricultural plastic producers and Canadian farmers boost their ability to recycle agricultural plastic waste. Funded by the federal Ministry of Environment and Climate Change Canada, the study will quantify the types and volumes of on-farm plastic wastes and secondly, identify facilities that can manage or recycle these waste streams. “Through this, we plan to transition agriculture as a full participant in the zero-waste circular economy. That’s one of the ways we hope to contribute to a better environment,” Friesen says. Cleanfarms’ mandate is to support agriculture to be both responsible and sustainable in all operations, and to achieve the ultimate goal of zero waste.
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PrairieCoast Equipment can meet all your needs at two convenient locations providing service, parts and sales, at these locations: 675 Adams Court, Kelowna, BC V1X 7S2 - 250-765-9765 8025 Dallas Dr, Kamloops, BC V2C 6X2 - 250-573-4412 In addition to stationary and portable wind machine sales, PrairieCoast Equipment is there to support and service your wind machines, so they are functioning at their highest performance level with factory trained service technicians and with genuine OEM parts. The history of PrairieCoast Equipment goes back to 2009, when four individual John Deere equipment dealers merged to create PrairieCoast Equipment. The company was created to meet the needs of the proactive grower seeking equipment solutions to meet their unique needs. With over 38 years of combined industry experience, PrairieCoast equipment sets the industry benchmark in customerbased solutions. "For our customers, everything is driven by how to best meet their needs with equipment solutions that work, and staff that will do whatever it takes to meet those needs," comments Dennis Landis, PrairieCoast Equipment CEO. Today the team at PrairieCoast Equipment is ready to serve the needs of the grower who recognizes the value of wind machine frost protection and they are eager and excited to represent the Orchard-Rite brand.
14 Summer 2020
Young Agrarian Mentorship for Elderberry Grove By Tom Walker
“We had been harvesting our local wild elderberry and making a shrub or oxymel,” says Louise, referring to a tart vinegar tonic for drinking. “It’s a 2500-yearold recipe from Hippocrates: One-third elderberry juice, one-third apple cider vinegar and one-third honey.” Taking the shrub as a daily tonic was keeping their winter colds at bay, Louise adds. The couple made up some syrup from the wild elder and sold it at the Enderby seed swap. “I knew that would be our target audience,” says Louise. At the same time they had been thinking about a commercial crop for their family farm. “My parents were encouraging me to do something with our land, but I would joke that I only wanted to grow something unusual like stinging nettles, dandelions or elderberry,” says Jed. “When I found out that you can grow it commercially, it was no longer a joke.” “We both agreed that if we were going to farm it wasn’t going to be a market garden like our friends,” says Louise. “It was going to be something medicinal, about helping people.” Jed had first heard of elderberry while
Photos contributed
A diverse set of interests have led Salmon Arm farming couple Jed Wiebe and Louise Lecouffe to a unique crop – elderberries. Jed likes to experiment with horticulture, (at over 200 varieties of fruits, nuts, and berries, he admits to being ‘a bit obsessive”). Louise is interested in medicinal plants and their chemistry and the two of them have been working on home canning techniques for a while.
Farming couple Jed Wiebe and Louise Lecouffe started farming elderberries in Salmon Arm.
We are really positive about the value-added potential for elder as a crop for small scale farmers. Jed Wiebe travelling in Europe, where there are around 32,000 acres of commercial production. North America has about 600 acres with one commercial operation in Quebec, but the majority are centered in Missouri. That’s where the couple got their first cuttings in 2016, just to try. “Elder is a really easy plant to grow,” explains Jed. “You stick it in the ground and it sprouts like a willow.” Louise adds, “We had these amazing little cuttings and the plants grew six feet tall and six feet wide.” The couple got serious and ordered 1,000 cuttings for the spring of 2017. “We got around 10 lbs of berries per plant in those first years,” Jed recalls. “That’s comparable to commercial US growers.”
Elderberries and Elderberry Syrup Shrub juice from Elderberry Grove.
Jed went to an elderberry conference in Missouri and Louise to an herb growing and marketing conference in Washington. They took their own cuttings and planted out the rest of their 1.6 acre field and Elderberry Grove was official
ly launched. Their plants are grown as shrubs in the US style, as opposed to the single trees that are favoured in Europe. “Growing them in a hedge gives a much higher yield per acre,” notes Jed. They sell some of the late blooming spring flowers to distilleries and kombucha makers, and dry some to make a tea, but most of the value is in the berries. The couple note that when the hardy plants are growing through the summer, they are able to tend to their own extensive garden. The berries are harvested in the late fall and they process their products through the winter, stretching the work load well past the growing season. Elderberry is a well-known plant in Europe. My Yugoslavian neighbour has confessed to snitching flowers off the tree in my front yard for an early summer cordial, but the majority of elder’s well documented anti-oxidant properties come from the juice. Elderberries are mildly toxic when raw, Summer 2020
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so the seeds are removed, and the juice must be cooked. Jed has built his own destemming machine and they use an old cider press to extract the juice, which is then frozen. Louise has set up a fully inspected commercial kitchen in the Salmon Arm Elks Hall where they prepare and bottle juice, syrup and the shrub. The couple has plans to build their own mobile commercial kitchen this fall and are eyeing a wine press for the juice. “Last year our sales were online, at farmers’ markets in Salmon Arm and Enderby, and in select health food stores,” says Louise. “Some people are buying it by the case to take as a daily immune booster.” The recent health scare pushed sales skyward, and Elderberry Grove was sold out by the middle of March. Elderberry Grove’s product is certified organic. They are the only producers in Canada using fresh berries (not dried) and they are able to sell at a competitive price point, Louise says. “We sold 4500 bottles of our products this year,” she says. “People are familiar with the Quebec brand that is sold in health food stores and when they see ours they are happy to switch to a local product. “ Elderberry is known as an immune system support and an excellent source of vitamins B and C. “Some people take it as a daily supplement either to prevent or ease cold and flu symptoms.” says Louise. “Or like Jed does, as an anti-inflamma-
Elderberries growing in Salmon Arm.
tory.” The tasty syrup can be mixed with soda water, added to smoothies, cocktails, and poured on ice cream. Jed says the growers in Missouri calculate he is at the northern limit of the successful growing range. “Our fruit is harvested very late, but that is a good thing,” he notes. “We think it helps us avoid spotted wing drosophila damage, which is hard to control organically.” Jed has launched his own trials to see if there are other varietals that would be better suited to his location. “Yeah, my obsessiveness kicked in,” he
chuckles. “I have hunted down every commercially grown elderberry I can get in North America. I have 27 varieties now, including four from Denmark and at least one from Romania.” The couple tapped the Young Agrarians mentorship program which they say has given them lots of support, and their expansion this spring has been made possible with a lease agreement arranged with the help of the YA’s land matching program. “We are really positive about the value-added potential for elder as a crop for small scale farmers,” says Jed. “That is part of the reason we are so keen to sell cuttings to others, and we are really interested in learning from their experiences.”
Photos contributed
Friendly neighbours had been looking to make better use of their extra land as they down-sized from boarding horses and Jed and Louise wanted to expand their plantings. Tessa Wetherill, the Okanagan land matcher with Young Agrarians, helped both sides draw up a lease agreement. “She just had so many points that she brought up that made the whole process much better,” says Jed. They ended up with a 10-year lease and have planted another 1.6 acres.
Elderflower blooming in July. 16 Summer 2020
“This new field is completely different from our home farm, so it will be excellent to compare the two growing environments,” says Jed. “The wife of the couple is from Switzerland and loves elderberry. She says she can’t wait to have an elderberry farm on her land.” ■
Bella Wines
Unique Méthode Ancestrale Sparkling Wines By Michael Botner Almost by definition, Naramata Bench wineries are a little off the beaten path. More so than most, Bella Wines has carved a niche on a small, four-acre homestead off Gulch Road on the outskirts of Naramata village. Established in 2011, it is the inspiration of Kamloopsborn wine educator extraordinaire Jay Drysdale and his partner, northern California native Wendy Rose. As the story goes, true connection came when Wendy’s life-long appreciation for imported Champagne and fine cuisine linked up with Jay’s obsessive determination to establish a boutique winery and make his own sparkling wine from BCgrown grapes. Through it all from the very beginning, their first date trufflehunting just outside Portland, Oregon, has been Jay’s loveable pet, a bulldog named Bella. Instead of going for a typical, tried and true, popular sparkling wine style, the Bella team decided to throw out the rule book and do things differently. Instead of Pinot Noir, Drysdale tapped Gamay as the unlikely mainstay variety for his bubbly creations, saying, “A grape I did not know what to expect won my heart.” Unlikely because “you couldn’t give it away when we started,” he says, referring to Gamay’s lowly underdog status. According to Drysdale, the worst thing that ever happened to Gamay was carbonic maceration, the process that transforms a small amount of sugar in un-
It has a lot of chutzpah… That's what I want, every one of my wines to have its own unique personality. Jay Drysdale crushed grapes into ethanol. It is typically used in Beaujolais to produce low tannin, light bodied, brightly coloured, fresh and fruity red wines for early consumption. Not exactly what he had in mind.
Photos contributed
As an accredited sommelier with experience as a chef and restauranteur, he has always had a soft spot for “principled” Gamay. Made using traditional winemaking practices, “It is super-expressionable, has an affinity for food and is a favourite of wine professionals to drink at home,” he says. In the vineyard, the grape affords several benefits particularly for start-up wineries
with an eye on costs. Gangly and robust in the Okanagan, it is easier to grow and hardier than Pinot Noir, according to Drysdale. “Like Syrah, it loves to throw tonnage, up to 6-7 tons per acre, although ours comes in at 4-6 tons,” he says. But the key for Drysdale is Gamay’s polarizing temperament. “It has lots of chutzpah,” he says. “That’s what I want, every one of my wines to have its own, unique personality.” Drysdale has bet all his chips on crafting a dizzying array of rosé and white, bottle-fermented sparkling wine styles, each from a single variety - primarily Gamay, Summer 2020
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also some Chardonnay for contrast – each of which is sourced from a different vineyard. To secure these grapes, Bella taps different areas throughout the Okanagan and beyond. Late in 2019, the winemaker team of Drysdale and his assistant Kathleen Sinclair prepared to taste the unfinished 2019 vintage for the first time. “The wines are all in bottle on the lees until February or March when we start dégorgement, the step where the sediment is removed during the méthode champenoise process for making fine sparkling wine,” explains Drysdale. It only takes a little skin contact to change a wine’s personality: “I want the wine to be about the pure expression of fruit, not the autolytic character that develops the longer it stays in contact with the lees. If, on the other hand, I do see something that stands out, I may stash it away for years as a reserve wine,” he adds. Assessing the developing wines and making necessary adjustments is an essential step for winemakers. “When I first made bubbles, I picked up on sugars as everybody did because acids are easy and cheap to adjust,” he says. “But as I got my footing, I focused in on acids because, if a wine has a good backbone of acidity, rarely will the sugars be out of whack.” The tasting of bubblies include seven selections briefly discussed below. The first three are 2019 single-vineyard, sparkling rosés made in the traditional method, in which the first fermentation is feral or wild without the addition of nutrients
Natural wine means nothing has been added. Press the grapes, the juice goes into the barrel and then a bottle.There is no intervention and no filtering.
or enzymes and takes place in a tank on Bella’s property. Sourced from fruit grown in volcanic soil at the foot of Mount Boucherie in Westbank, it is still undergoing fermentation. The fruit is vibrant with pronounced flavours of candied raspberry and crushed berries. Bella uses Gamay grapes from Cavada, a Naramata hillside vineyard noted for its elevation above Bella Estate Winery and Naramata Road. The soil consists of bedrock and rocky glacial till with the presence of granite. Still fermenting, it shows extra colour, a delicate floral nose and attractive strawberry fruit. The wine is a rarity in that Drysdale scored the fruit from Deep Roots Winery before the replacement of the vines. Silty, lake bed soil yields darker-hued raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit.
Photos contributed
Bella is the first winery in Western Canada to make méthode ancestrale sparkling wines, sometimes referred to as pét-nat, short for pétillant naturel. It is a back to nature process that features a single fermentation of the juice, unlike méthode champenoise, with no intervention and no filtering. Expect a degree of natural cloudiness in these intensely-flavoured sparkling wines. From Mariani Vineyard come two Gamay clones from their three-acre Naramata site. 18 Summer 2020
Clone 787, a rare varietal in BC, is so pale, “it could be a blanc de noirs,” says Drysdale. It suggests delicate apple, pear and stone fruit flavours. Clone 509 is more widely planted in BC. Light ruby in colour, it delivers exuberant notes of raspberry, apple and stone fruit flavours. From the Similkameen Valley: For those who find it difficult to imagine a winemaker with a sense of humour, consider this méthode ancestrale bubbly from grapes provided by Robin Ridge, a Keremeos-based winey. “I am looking for a dry red sparkling wine in the style of a Lambrusco from Italy. Bold flavours suggest blueberry, blackberry, smoked bacon, charcoal and leather.” The final flight included a Piquette under the label 2019 Something Different. Piquette refers to a low alcohol wine with a touch of fizz, an easy drink for pickers on lunch break. This example is made up of 60% Gamay and 40% Muscat, and has no pretensions to fame and glory. “It is a poor man’s wine,” Drysdale says. Take the second pressing of grape pomace. Add water, then ferment the skins in water. Inventive, restless, enthusiastic, Drysdale’s experiments with Okanagan grapes and wine are surely never ending. The one thing that has not yet panned out: “I still want Gamay from Kamloops, where it grows on limestone.” ■
Biodynamics – The Soil Knows What it Needs By Ronda Payne Observing moon cycles, applying teas and tinctures, and following a colour-coded calendar with astrological symbols and notes about fruit, leaf, flower or root plants may seem like a bizarre way to grow crops, but biodynamics has been an agricultural movement for decades.
Photo by Ronda Payne
Relatively few North American growers have tried the methods introduced in 1924 by Dr. Rudolf Steiner in his lectures. Those, like Anna Helmer, a self-described former party-girl turned biodynamic farmer, started out questioning the practice’s efficacy, but years later found herself giving a presentation about it at the Certified Organic Association of BC’s annual conference. “I’m here to make the case of why to do it and why it’s so important for the future of farming in BC,” Helmer says. “If it didn’t work, I wouldn’t bother with it. I think it’s a really important thing to look into. You don’t need to stop what you’re doing in terms of fertility to start biodynamics. It’s a delicate blend of science and spirituality.”
Anna Helmer from Helmer's Organic Farm in Pemberton gave the presentation about biodynamic farming at the COABC’s annual conference.
Helmer is one of the family members who runs Helmer’s Organic Farm in Pemberton, which is mostly known for growing potatoes, but biodynamics isn’t just for potatoes; it can be beneficial for all crops from fruits to vegetables as well as mixed farms. In fact, a number of wineries have shifted to biodynamic grape growing including a number in France, Spain and other European regions as well as a few, more recently, in North America. Well-known organic-pioneering farmers, the Forstbauers of Forstbauer Family Natural Food Farm, continue to employ biodynamic methods on their 100-acre farm.
nature, the flora and fauna, the microbes and soils, to not only sustain the land on our farms, but to enhance it.” Steiner believed people would “figure it all out” in four years, but as Helmer points out, that was about 100 years ago and biodynamics is still far from mainstream. It’s therefore hard to find anyone who will describe themselves as an expert in the method, but there are plenty of organizations with experienced enthusiasts (like Forstbauer and Helmer) who can help with education. Having more farmers learn about the method is what Helmer feels can differentiate organic farmers further as the lines around how food is described continue to blur.
“Although biodynamic farming has certain methods and techniques (such as composting, the planting calendar and the use of herbal preparations and tinctures), it is much more than that,” says Niklaus, grandson of the original Forstbauers who started the farm. “It’s a way of looking at the world and understanding our role in it. Our goal is to work with the rhythms of
Her family’s farm started the transition when her parents went to a conference on biodynamics in Penticton in the 1990s. “It confirmed this conviction that [my dad] had that he would not have to add outside anything to the soil,” she says.
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“We had a terrible year,” Helmer says. “We bought the approved organic fertilizer for the cover crops.” But the fertilizer sat. “All that plastic it came in. It was very eye opening,” she says. “We didn’t use it. We ended up sending it back.” As Forstbauer explains, biodynamics was developed to heal soils that were being depleted and to produce healthy food. “On our farm, we currently work with all of the biodynamic preparations, we also use a biodynamic calendar for reference,” he says. “We continue to hone our skills at rebuilding the soil through composting and furthering our education on the soil through the teachings of Elaine Ingham and the Soil Food Web as well as our knowledge and self-awareness of the soil biome in relation to our own health through Zach Bush.” Forstbauer’s parents, Hans and Mary began farming in the early 1970s with a spirit of regenerative agriculture through a biodynamic mindset. “For as long as I can remember, one of their mottos has
been, healthy food from healthy soil,” he says. “I can’t say what year we started using all of the preparations and making them on our farm, but I personally began that process in the late 1990s.” The principles of biodynamics make use of six compost preparations numbered 502 to 507. Then there are the horn sprays #500, 501 and 508 as well as nettle, comfrey and manure teas. Helmer recommends BC Biodynamics and the Josephine Porter Institute to get preparations and to learn about the method. There is also the Biodynamic Association which offers education resources and links to other sites that can help with the steep learning curve. “You have to accept that there is a whole lot that goes on between your plants and soil and the environment that you don’t know anything about,” says Helmer. “It’s really powerful as a farmer to know that I can grow things without having to purchase an input.” She says that over the past 20 years the farm’s yield line has continued to go up. She credits this to biodynamics. “Our understanding of our role as farm-
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The conviction was tested one year when the crops weren’t doing well.
Niklaus Forstbauer and Anna Helmer at the COABC annual conference.
ers in nature is to be good stewards of the earth, the land, the soil,” says Forstbauer. “Ironically enough, it is actually the soil that takes care of us, giving us food, giving us life.” It feels like a revolutionary time to Helmer. “Our organic farming pioneers … they took off in their own direction,” she says. “Biodynamics offers us this chance. To go off on our own again, to do another end run. I know that I want to be in a different playing field. It’s a good way to distinguish ourselves. But there’s drawbacks to going into biodynamics. It’s hard to talk about, especially in conventional farms and farm areas.” She feels that biodynamics offers the explanation as something different from organic and notes that her customers think it’s “really neat.” “There should be no pressure [for firsttimers],” she says. “If you do it wrong, your plants might notice. It’s quite fun actually. There’s room in biodynamics for common sense and instincts. The plants understand it, the soil gets it. The 500 [preparation] is the one thing we’ve been doing on the farm for 20 years. Tossing a little 500 around, it’s not going to hurt. Maybe it will encourage you to try more.” Biodynamics may provide an alternative farming methodology for those who want to be organic but limit their reliance on outside inputs, or for those who want to pursue a practice that follows a calendar and various astrological data points. Even the initially reluctant, like Helmer, can learn how biodynamic methods are capable of doing things humans may not understand but that can create stronger yields and healthier soils. ■
LEGAL LIBATIONS | DENESE ESPEUT-POST
Decide Now To Ventilate or Not to Ventilate?
T
he title of a recent National Post article is a good summary of new discussions I have had with several clients about personal planning in light of COVID-19. It said, "Some critically ill COVID-19 patients choosing to die at home rather than be treated with ventilator in ICU.” We are in the throes of a worldwide health pandemic and the need for ventilators continues to grow. As COVID-19 infections do battle with
procedure is required, a scope is inserted into the patient’s mouth and a tube is guided into the patient’s windpipe and attached to the mechanical ventilator. An even more invasive procedure requires an incision be made in the patient’s windpipe for the tube’s insertion. The use of a ventilator is potentially a life-saving treatment for COVID-19 victims.
a person’s lungs, breathing functions can be crippled. According to the World Health Organization, one in six COVID-19 patients becomes seriously ill and has difficulty breathing. According to the Journal of the American Medical Association, more than 40% of COVID-19 patients will develop acute respiratory distress syndrome. In such situations, ventilators can keep patients breathing and give their bodies a chance to fight the virus.
However, in making the decision to accept ventilation, a patient must weigh the benefits against the potential consequences in light of the patient’s medical wishes. According to the National Post article, “… a number of elderly patients have died in longterm care homes rather than submit to intensive therapy
Hooking up COVID-19 patients to ventilators can occur in a few different ways, ranging from invasive to relatively non-invasive. In less critical cases, oxygen can be delivered through a face mask rather than a tube. If a more invasive
that might have only made their passing more painful and uncomfortable.” Further, doctors are asking Canadians “… to consider now whether they would want the full panoply of ICU care should COVID-19 make them severely ill, especially given research showing survivors of such treatment often fare poorly over the long term.” Have you asked yourself this question? Do you want mechanical ventilation should you become afflicted with COVID-19 and your condition deteriorates? This is not a simple question to ask, but is one that must be answered. Like other hospitals across the country, the University of Toronto’s critical care medicine department recently developed guidelines urging health
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care workers to ask COVID-19 patients at the time of admission to set out the patient’s medical treatment goals. The question is asked early in the admission process due to the potential for the patient’s rapid deterioration if low oxygen levels occur. These questions not only ensure the patient’s medical wishes are made known and followed, but can reduce the unnecessary use of limited critical care supplies. It is very important for a patient to communicate their medical wishes to their health care workers, caregivers and loved ones. The time may come when you may not be able to communicate your beliefs and wishes for medical treatment at a time when a treatment decision must be made. There is no time like the present to reflect and write down your beliefs and wishes for future health treatment.
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An Advance Directive allows you to state your decisions about accepting or refusing health care treatments, including life support and life-prolonging medical interventions such as mechanical ventilation, directly to your health care worker. Your wishes as set out in your Advance Directive must be followed when the Directive addresses the health care decision needed at the time. If a health care decision must be made that is not addressed in your Advance Directive, a Temporary Substitute Decision Maker (TSDM) will be chosen to make that health care decision for you if you are incapable of doing so. Your TSDM will be chosen by your health care provider based upon a list determined by BC law unless you appoint a proxy to make such decisions on your behalf in a Representation Agreement. Ensuring that your voice is heard in decisions made about your health care is important and there are several steps that you can take now, while you are capable, to put an advance care plan in place. Taking the time to develop your advance care plan will provide you with comfort in knowing that your family, friends and health care workers know your wishes and carry them out. You can make a choice now to speak to your doctor and your lawyer to develop your advance care plan. ■
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Denese Espeut-Post is an Okanaganbased lawyer and owns Avery Law Office. Her primary areas of practice include wine and business law. www.averylawoffice.ca
î Ž MARKETING MIX | LEEANN FROESE
It’s Not Business As Usual During Pandemic
T
he beginning of 2020 was off to a great start. Optimism was in the air and the farmers and growers were readying themselves for a year of bounty. Then Covid-19 handcuffed the world. Social distancing measures are now the best practice, and handwashing is the first thing you do before any activity. And yet the flowers still bloom, and the earth still spins, and we all need to get back to the comfort and predictability of routine. If you had a marketing plan or budget at the start of the year, chances are you had to change course and essentially throw the plan out the window. Planned marketing activities were cancelled or put on pause, and what did occur
forts, tell them how amazing they are, and let them know how much they are appreciated. This can be as simple as a staff coffee and donut meeting, a team BBQ, or it could be a gift of something more material, but the most important thing is to take the time to thank your team for getting through all of this with you.
became reactive rather than proactive. Those of you that had strong distribution at retail and direct-to-consumer are in the best position. If you did not have a way to communicate and do business online before, you likely are struggling now from being late to the game. Now that we will have a new routine, what do we do about the plans we had? Are the retail and restaurant customers ready for our outreach, and will the tourists come? Time will tell how this summer season looks, and as we roll out, there are marketing activities you should be doing.
Crank it Up Now is the time to turn up the volume on your marketing activities in order to be heard above the noise. A full suite of marketing tactics will apply here. Check your budget and decide what you want to focus on, and then invest. Ideas include paid ad placement in print, digital and broadcast, boosting your social media posts, and collaborating with influencers to promote your products. Let everyone know you are back and ready for their visit.
But First, Reward Your Employees We need to take a minute for this. Some of us had to lay off staff or adjust staff roles. This was not easy. For those employees that did stay on, anxiety was high, and yet they asked how they could help and what was needed to keep things going. Our employees are our top ambassadors, and we need to recognize their ef-
Think of What the Customer Needs As noted, those with strong wine clubs and social following that give their customers
personalized offers are likely holding steady. Consumers are now rationalizing what they spend on, and their confidence is going to be the path to success. They need to know they are safe. Do you need to put social distancing decals on the ground and supply sanitation stations throughout your property? Visitors may avoid tasting rooms without visible protocols in place. Establish your new way of servicing customers, put it in writing, and then over-communicate. Post the information to your website, Google page, social media, and make signs and brochures. Let the local chamber of commerce, tourism boards, and media know what you have to offer, and then, just as importantly, prepare to execute with excellence. ‌and What the Customer Wants With assurances of safety in place, customers are looking for deals, or looking for something special. Free shipping? If
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you are not already offering this, you will be left behind for sure. Now every kind of business is doing this. If furniture companies are now shipping large items like sofas for free, it is expected that you will not charge for shipping. What else do you have to offer? While Marketing 101 says to not discount products (as it sets a bad precedent and can devalue product), think of what consumers can afford at this time and consider that lowering prices may be a short-term strategy. Ideas include a price discount, case lot sales, special wines offered onsite only, library bundles, or other gifts and perks. Think Hyper-Local
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What special offers do you have in place for people who live in your community? Talk is that everyone will be sticking close to home this summer, so create a localsonly offer that will ensure that you are the backyard favourite. Ideas include deep discounts with proof of residency, frequent shopper perks, collaboration products with your local bakery/grocery/ neighbour, and when allowed again, host an event just for those in the community. Welcome Everyone Back Warmly The stress and uncertainty of the past few months has impacted some people very deeply. They are more cautious and will now be looking for a place where they are welcomed, feel comfortable, and where they can take a mini-break and disconnect from work, responsibilities at home, and the struggle of the past spring.
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RULES OF THE GAME | ERNIE KEENES
Can VQA Survive Grocery-Based Wine Retail?
W
hen the BC Liberals won the election of 2013 one of their first initiatives was to make it easier for BC consumers to buy BC wine. A legislative committee headed by MLA John Yap toured the province and reported back that while some citizens remained concerned about wider public exposure to alcohol, more wanted convenient opportunities to buy local
quickly, creating new challenges for the BC wine industry.
wine. Mindful of the countervailing sentiments, the government decided there would be grocery store wine sales, but no new licenses created to make that happen. The promise was accomplished by separating independently-owned VQA wine stores from their licences that were administered by the BC Wine Institute. A parcel of other apparently dormant licences was also discovered, and sold at auction. The result now is some 31 grocery store wine departments divided mostly between Save-on-Foods and Superstore and some of its partners.
Rows of Grapes, Aisles of Wine When the private wine stores were created the barriers to entry for entrepreneurs to get into the business were low, particularly because they did not have to purchase their inventory. The wine was acquired on consignment from the wineries who were paid when the wine was sold, or if unsold, returned to the winery. These VQA stores were technically non-compliant with Canada's national treatment and non-discrimination commitments in the NAFTA and the World Trade Organization, as US and other world wines were prohibited, but
My purpose here is to show that, having completed the transition to grocery wine sales, the sector is evolving
our trade partners chose to look the other way while our “infant industry” went through its modernization transition. Once the government’s decision on groceries was made, some VQA store owners were happy to cash in and return their licence to the BCWI; for others it took some arm twisting. With the transition to the grocery store model complete, and as current government policy seems to mandate that no new wine store licences will be created, the licensing regime is probably more complicated than it needs to be and is already in evolution. At one level there are government liquor stores which sell a
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wide range of beers, spirits, wines and liqueurs. The current BC NDP government created an advisory committee chaired by lawyer Mark Hicken to sort out contradictions in the governance, regulatory, retail, and wholesale operations of the BCLDB. At the second level are liquor retail stores and cold beer and wine stores, which offer a range of products similar to government stores, but on a smaller scale. Our focus here, however, is specifically grocery-based wine retail. As I noted above, there are two licences: the BC VQA exclusive licences transferred from former independent BC VQA stores (a few of these stores remain) to Save-on-Foods, and the previously “dormant” licences auctioned to SoF and Superstore. The VQA-only licences, administered through the BCWI, have restricted the holder to sales of BC VQA grape wine alone, while the other (administered by the government) allowed BCmade non-VQA wine, fruit wines, cider and sake. In effecting the transition from independent wine stores to the grocery-based model, the government and the BCWI reassured the industry that it would gain wider marketplace exposure for their products, and our trade partners would continue looking away from our trade policy transgression.
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The latter promise exhibited wilful disingenuity on the part of all involved: such a fundamental alteration in the marketing of wine, from which our trade partners were excluded, was bound to be challenged, as it successfully was. The Canadian and BC governments accepted the grievances of our trade partners at the NAFTA II negotiations and the WTO and the protection was removed. As of now, grocers may stock wine and similar alcoholic beverages from anywhere in the world. Superstore and associated grocers have begun selling Cellared in Canada products sourced around the world and packaged in Canada, and may add other international wines. Save-onFoods remains committed to BC products. Superstore competes essentially with a narrower selection of BC products and international wines at lower prices, SoF on a wider selection of BC products, specialized staffing, and volume discounts. The trade policy concession made redundant the distinction
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between VQA-store and auction-based licences. Wine departments previously based on VQA wine will add previously nonVQA wines, cider and sake, and “alternative packaging” (bagin-box and cans) will be featured. The BC Wine Authority may be asked to accept box wines and cans as eligible for VQA certification, but then, recall that screwcaps were thought once to be beneath VQA standard! Again, this may prove redundant if VQA-licence stores are able to stock non-VQA products. There is no apparent reason to retain two distinct licences.
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The Slippery Slope? The BC wine industry is in a very vulnerable position. Generational change means Boomers who “created” the modern BC wine industry are making way for Millenials and younger consumers who are less committed to wine as part of their lifestyle, so we may have reached peak demand in the home market. The Supreme Court of Canada ruling on the R v. Comeau case sustained provincial hurdles to free shipping of wine to the wider Canadian market. COVID-19, fires and floods have shown how sensitive the restaurant and tourist markets are to random external disruption.
Check out Gerard’s Equipment for any orchard or vineyard supply, located just south of Oliver on Highway 97.
Ninety percent of BC wine is sold in BC and the grocery sector, but a large part of that market is now vulnerable to competition from imported wines. The only thing that separates SoF from Superstore is the former's commitment to buying local, but how long will SoF be able to maintain its local preference against lower-priced products from the rest of the world?
5592 Hwy 97 Oliver BC 250-498-2524 250-498-6231
On its 30th birthday VQA is more necessary than ever in reassuring consumers their wine is local, sound, and worth the premium price compared with industrial-scale winemaking around the world. But the VQA designation is less distinct than ever. Does it make sense for the BCWI to retain its administrative claim on its redundant VQA-only licences? What do the VQA rules, enforced by the BCWA, mean in this new environment? ■
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Ernie Keenes is a retired journalist and political scientist with an ongoing interest in governance and regulatory issues in wine. He works in wine retail in Kelowna and is a partner in a strictly non-commercial vineyard and winery in West Kelowna.
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Summer 2020
27
THE WORD ON WINE | CARIE JONES
Working Together to be Stronger
I
n March, the world as we once knew it took a fearful breath and paused. Businesses closed, travel ceased and schools shut down. Suddenly, on a global scale, we were living in a new reality none of us knew how to navigate. Despite this drastic change, the BC wine industry as a whole stepped up and responded in the only way it could, with strength, determination, passion and hope. With 929 vineyards across the province, BC’s wine industry responded quickly, coming together to do everything it could to protect the more than 12,000 jobs BC wineries support. With tasting rooms closed, wineries had to refocus their efforts on online sales and events.
On April 2, the BC government once again proclaimed April as the official provincewide wine month, this time with a twist, encouraging all British Columbians to enjoy 100 per cent BC wines at their homes. BC Minister of Agriculture Lana Popham joined a BC Wine Institute (BCWI) COVID-19 informational webinar in April to officially present the proclamation and provide an update for industry. “Communities all around the province continue to rally together by supporting local businesses and choosing to Buy BC products,” said Popham. “Many BC winemakers depend on sales within our province to keep their businesses running, and our support for them and all BC farmers and businesses during this pandemic will help the resiliency and future of food and beverage production in British Columbia.” Typically, BC Wine Month is supported by Wines of British Columbia events hosted across the province. With that no longer an option, more than 175 wineries, along with
local retailers and restaurants, responded quickly to make it easier to enjoy BC wine from home by offering free shipping, delivery, virtual tastings, charitable donations and curbside pickup for British Columbians. The BCWI launched a dedicated webpage to highlight these promotions and provide a simple way for wine lovers to find BC wines and engage with their local wineries online. In addition, the regular BCWI event webpage on WineBC.com was updated to promote all industry virtual events encouraging visitors to discover local experiences from the comfort of home. At the direction of the Province and Provincial Health Authority, the BCWI also postponed anticipated spring tasting events, such as BLOOM in Vancouver and Victoria and DISCOVER in Calgary. The Vancouver event also hosts the Vintage Media Preview which invites trade and media to join winemakers to taste and discuss the recent vintage. In response, the BCWI created a brand-new virtual two-part webinar preview of
BC’s 2019 vintage. Participants streamed from the comfort and safety of home, while Barbara Philip MW and two panels of top BC winemakers from across the province welcomed viewers from across the country into BC’s diverse wine regions to discuss the 2019 vintage directly from the vineyards where the grapes are grown. To replace in-store tastings and continue to promote BC wine, social media influencer campaigns provided virtual tastings with key retail partners like Save-On-Foods and BC Liquor Stores. To further assist BC wineries in promoting their wine, a new Wines of British Columbia Explorer app launched this summer to replace the original Wines of British Columbia Trip Planner app. The new platform will help wineries connect with their ideal consumer, build their brand and get their wine into consumers’ hands. This app will be a powerful tool for wineries, both in the short-term recovery from COVID-19 and in building long-term resilience.
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In response to the ever-changing pandemic information, the BCWI created a COVID-19 resource page for members and industry stakeholders to provide a simple way for industry to get up-to-date information on the rapidly evolving COVID-19 situation. Regularly updated key links, messaging and industry updates offer an easy to find, one-stop location for crucial and relevant industry information. The BCWI also hosted informational webinars for its members and industry stakeholders, outlining BCWI’s response, recovery and resilience initiatives and how wineries could leverage these resources and tools to help support their business. Working with government and industry stakeholders, the BCWI was able to implement key advocacy initiatives to help support the BC wine industry during a very uncertain time. These initiatives allowed for BC Liquor Stores to remain essential and open for business with expanded retail hours to allow early-hour shoppers access, along with an increase in BC Liquor Stores’ brand diversity and shelf space allocated to BC VQA Wine. It also helped provide temporary foreign workers support. A Wine Growers of Canada (WGC) COVID-19 task group was created along with the BC Wine Institute, the Winery & Grower Alliance of Ontario and the Winery Association of Nova Scotia to work together as an industry to stay up to date on work that is being done both on the federal and provincial levels to support the associations respected members, and share key messaging and resources to help support the industry through this global health crisis. “We’re stronger when working together. Collaboratively, we’re responding to the situation and have been very successful in pivoting during this unpredictable time. We've embraced a new way of working to continue promoting our member wineries and the industry as a whole,” says Miles Prodan, President and CEO of the BC Wine Institute. “We’ve been working with industry on new tasting room protocols and best practices for all wineries which will help provide visitors with the confidence to visit tasting rooms again as we all continue to navigate this new landscape.”
pulse on how the pandemic was affecting business. In April, survey results reflected that while 70% of wineries reported revenue losses of up to $100,000, nearly 70% of wineries were open for both curbside pickup and direct-to-consumer shipping with 98 per cent of wineries reporting higher online sales than the previous month. As always, the focus continues to be on promoting BC wine as we navigate our new reality. Despite having to change the way we operate for now, in BC,
Visit WineBC.com to learn more and help support your BC wine industry. Carie Jones, Communications Manager, BC Wine Institute
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The BCWI also conducted weekly and monthly surveys of its members to get a
grapegrowing and winemaking haven't stopped. The beauty and resilience of our incredible, breathtaking wine regions endures. The vines continue to grow, the grapes continue to ripen and winemakers continue to produce fresh and vibrant wine synonymous with BC. ■
Summer 2020
29
CANADIAN WINEMAKERS SERIES | ANDREA BARKER
Foxtrot Winery Winemaker Andrea Barker Born in Toronto, I grew up a hockey player. Having an early start in wine appreciation, training with my father at the dinner table, I developed an interest at a young age. In my teenage years, I moved down to the DC area where I later earned a degree in soil science from the University of Maryland. I worked my first harvest at the university’s research vineyard, which began my career in the wine industry. I spent years working and travelling the world to gain experience and develop a rich understanding of terroir-driven winemaking. Returning to Canada in 2017, I undertook a research-based master’s degree exploring the terroir of Niagara, focusing on the effects clone and rootstocks impart on wine quality of Pinot noir, Chardonnay and Riesling. At the end of my studies, in 2019, I found the perfect job at Foxtrot Winery in Naramata. In my first season here, we designed our own research project, planting a vineyard of Pinot noir comparing own-rooted and grafted vines in several different soil types. I am very excited to be a part of the BC wine industry and to continue my learning on Canadian soil! O&V: How did you get started in the wine industry? My father has always had a great appreciation of wine, which he imparted on all his children. I began tasting with him at a very young age, and interest eventually turned to passion. O&V: Where did you go to school or apprentice? I have a BSc in soil science from the University of Maryland. Later I completed a certificate in Enology through Washington State University. Finally, I earned a MSc in Viticulture and Oenology at Brock University, in Ontario. O&V: Have you worked in any other countries? I spent several years gleaning experience on different forms of winemaking and grape growing around the world before returning to Canada. I have worked in South Africa, New Zealand, US and Germany. O&V: What is your favourite varietal to work with?
Foxtrot Vineyard Winemaker Andrea Barker
Pinot noir. It is demanding and finicky, but if you get it right, oh so rewarding!. O&V: What is the best thing about your job? I am always learning. O&V: Is there a particular wine or vintage that you have made that you are most proud of? The 2019 vintage at Foxtrot is a special one for me being my first vintage as head winemaker. It was a challenging year, for many reasons, resulting in very little fruit, but that made it all the more precious. We held out until the last moment to pick, challenging birds and frost, to allow full flavour development in the fruit, which in turn produced wonderfully complex and elegant wines.
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