OTC Beauty Magazine | January 2022

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INDUSTRY NEWS The Formulation Summit 2021 returned to examine industry trends in an age of sustainability and well-being Marking the in-cosmetics Group’s first physical event to take

place in Europe in over two years, the in-cosmetics Formulation Summit returned to London from 29-30 November to examine

deeper level of transparency along with a greater focus on digital marketing and business process automation.

how R&D professionals and formulators can advance in the age of

Following Mary’s session, Samantha Dover, Global Beauty &

experts speaking, delegates from the likes of Unilever, TerraCycle,

behaviours are expected to be habit-forming. Samantha provided

sustainability and well-being. With a host of leading international Solent Group, Rodial, Rahn, SOLFARCOS, Oriflame Cosmetics and more gained unparalleled insights into current and future trends, with a focus on ‘COVID Cosmetics’ and ‘Sustainability and Neurocosmetics’.

Delivering the opening remarks and moderating the two-day

conference, Dr. Barbara Olioso, Founder, The Green Chemistry

Personal Care Analyst, Mintel discussed how shifts in consumer a deep dive into post-pandemic beauty and grooming trends across Europe. For example, in Germany, 30% of adults intended to

actively look after their mental health, while 29% of Brits planned to limit non-essential spending. In Spain, 66% of make-up users

cited skincare as a top consideration when making a purchasing decision.

Consultancy kicked off the 2021 proceedings by calling on

Samantha also revealed how emerging trends are increasingly

12 months. Here, self-care proved to be the biggest trend noted

bioengineered botanicals; and Nue Co’s use of patented olfactory

attendees to revisit the themes that had dominated in the past among delegates, with anti-viral, holistic beauty, microbiome,

sanitiser, wellness and adaptability also emerging as notable topics of interest.

DAY 1: COVID Cosmetics: how the pandemic altered the beauty and personal care space

Shining a light on how the pandemic has impacted the personal

care and cosmetic industries, speakers on day one reflected on how the industry – and consumers – have responded to the challenges of the past 18 months.

First to address the challenges of ‘formulating in an age of

uncertainty and wellbeing’, Mary Lord, former president of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) spoke about the

widespread disruption and pressure the pandemic had put on all corners of the industry.

Ahead of her session at the Summit, Mary interviewed four

blurring category lines, illustrated by Rose Inc’s use of proprietary

technology that stimulates the neural pathways to boost a consumer’s mental state. In summary, Samantha urged delegates

and brand owners to consider and respond to post-pandemic usage trends, pay attention to value perceptions, and cater to the growing audience of consumers online.

Want to learn more about these industry trends? Read the full report at www.otcbeautymagazine.com.

Fast-tracking sanitiser production and holistic hygiene

Looking back at the unprecedented growth of hand sanitiser

production, Mauro Bleve, R&D Division Lead, Laboratorios Maverick outlined the differences between biocidal and cosmetic products, along with the relevant EU regulations and claims that can be made in each category. Mauro explained why efficacy, safety and quality were key differentiators as mandatory efficacy

tests were required for biocidal products, unlike their cosmetic counterparts.

industry leaders, including Emma Hagemo, Vice President R&D,

Offering first-hand insights into the production of hand sanitiser,

Monaghan, Operations Director, The Handmade Soap Company;

Ireland took to the stage to chart the unprecedented path to

Oriflame; Sam Farmer, Owner, Samuel Farmer & Co Ltd; Sean

and Heidi Bannister, Founder and MD at Arthur Edward Global Cosmetic Recruitment, to get their views on ‘the good, the bad and the future’.

Among the good, the respondents noted a transition in traditional R&D methods, a strategic shift in digitalisation and a greater

Paolo Camattari, Formulation and NPI Manager, Cosmetic market taken in the development of its AirMedica alcohol-based

hand sanitiser. Paolo highlighted how at the end of 2019 the company had celebrated exceeding 85,000 units per week, and

within the first three months of 2021, the company had doubled output, adding a new production line to keep up with demand.

understanding of cosmetic claims and formulations among

From production to the efficacy of personal care formulations,

challenge: widespread supply chain disruption. Looking ahead

– Hygiene, Protection and Resilience Technology Platform,

consumers. The interviewees also reflected on the most notable to future opportunities, respondents anticipated a higher and 40

OTC Beauty Magazine January 2022

Sayandip Mukherjee, Senior research scientist and leader Beauty and Personal Care Division, Unilever shared research


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