2 | TRAVELER
ISSUE 79
SUMMER 2021
9
Peaking in 2021: Mt. Fuji INSIDE
12
14
22
24
Summer Camping Guide
Honey Business in Tokushima
Japan's Digital Nomads
Eating Wild in Japan
From the Editor. . . . . . . . . 5 Summer Events . . . . . . . . . 6 Summer Music Festivals. . 8
18
Iriomote's Endangered Wildcats
26
Blue Waves and Black Ships in Shimoda
Market Watch. . . . . . . . . . . 25 Travel Directory. . . . . . . . . 28
Summer 2021 | 3
Haga Farm & Glamping
summerglamp
Luxury Glamping at Haga Farm
Off-site Exploring
Summer is a most magical time of a year at Haga Farm & Glamping and we have the whole family covered for a summer escape to Tochigi!
Our sister golf course, the nearby Murasakizuka G.C., is also in beautiful condition and guests just pay an additional ¥6,000 for a round (¥3,000 on weekdays) and enjoy their rejuvenating onsen after your round.
Enjoy quality time at your own personal glamping suite and outdoor deck. Each glamping unit is fully air conditioned and can sleep up to 4 people on Sleepwell beds and comes with a private bathroom with shower or bath. Each deck is covered and has an outdoor dining space and lounge area as well as a fully stocked outdoor kitchen, including Weber Spirit 2 grills. Dinner is a highlight of the experience and guests can enjoy a feast delivered to your glamp site featuring locally grown vegetables, a variety of seafood and meats featuring Tochigi wagyu to grill on the BBQ, and dessert that will keep everyone happy and content (tea and coffee are also available and special dietary requirements can be accommodated).
Other nearby activities include a horseback riding experience at Tochinoha Stable, or you can visit the nearby towns of Utsunomiya (famous for it’s prized gyoza) or the famed pottery town of Mashiko to look at the wonderful artisan shops or even try your hand at making some pottery.
Contact Information
www.reiwagolfresort.com | info@reiwagolfresort.com
On-site Amenities On property you can enjoy the pool and bar area and other on site activities such as basketball, games or feel free to just take a relaxing walk under the trees of the forest. During the summer holiday season, the family can enjoy outdoor poolside movies in the evening (weather permitting). Watch out for summer live acoustic music too! (Details on our website). R E I WA G O L F RE S O RT
F r om t h eEdi t o r
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eady or not, the summer of ’21 is finally upon us. It may be optimistic to call it the “Summer of Hope,” but we like our glass half full around here, preferably filled with some tasty craft beer. We are hopeful the state of emergency will finally be lifted in all parts of Japan and taprooms, restaurants and cafés across the nation can re-open. The hospitality industry has particularly suffered and many feel like they have been sacrificed so the IOC can finally have their Tokyo Olympics. We have hope domestic travel comes back with a fury this summer and autumn, and international travelers before winter, so the travel industry and resort destinations in Japan can get back on track. There is going to be a sweet spot between domestic travel restrictions opening up and international travel returning, and while Outdoor Japan readers enjoy getting off the beaten track, this could be the last chance to visit some places that are normally crawling with tourists, so get out there. Some of these well-worn trails lead up to the summit of Mt. Fuji. We talked to four veteran Mt. Fuji guides about the upcoming climbing season and why this could be the best year to climb Japan’s sacred mountain in nearly half a century. We head to one of Japan’s last wild places, Iriomote Island, home to the endangered Iriomote wildcat. Arguably, there is no other place in Japan where sustainable travel is more important than this island to the west of Ishigaki, Okinawa’s popular diving and resort island. We talk to the Fuji Rock campground director as he gears up for Japan’s biggest summer music festival. Fuji Rockers are hopeful for a triumphant return with an all domestic lineup. Other music events, such as Kodo’s Earth Celebration, are hopeful for a return as well so check Outdoor Japan Online for updates. We stay south and talk to the bee man of Tokushima, Akinori Kai. A healthy ecosystem, specifically flowers, fruit and other plants that rely on pollination need bees and Aki-san is doing his part to share his love for beekeeping and hope by bringing bees to new communities in Japan while teaching them how to care for them. We share some great organic farms delivering fresh fruits and veggies to your door and look at “Eating Wild Japan,” which explores the world of foraging for wild edible plants and the symbiotic relationship between people and the environment. The insightful book will change the way you see the forest during your next walk in the woods. We head to Shimoda, one of our favorite summer retreats for sea and sand, with its laid-back vibe, good surf, great restaurants, hot springs and an interesting history with the Black Ships of Commodore Perry landing on these southern shores of the Izu Peninsula. Finally we drive vicariously through Japan with two digital nomads who have embraced van life for the foreseeable future, living and working out of their converted Nissan Caravan. Stories like these give us hope that this summer will be the turning point for great things ahead. So stay hopeful, healthy and happy this summer, enjoy the serenade of the cicadas and explore this amazing country—now is the time!
Published Seasonally
PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K. DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Joan Bailey DESIGN Outdoor Japan
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Cover Photo: Miles Peterson / Fuji Mountain Guides
Summer 2021 | 5
GUIDE LINES
Summer Events
6 | TRAVELER
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Wassamu and Nayoro Piyashiri Ski Hill Climb Wassamu Ski Resort opens up one of its slopes for a 500-meter sprint to the top. If you’re feeling up to it, Nayoro Piyashiri Ski Hill Climb holds a similar race the next day. The two resorts are an hour drive from each other in Hokkaido. When: July 22-23 Where: Wassamu Ski Resort, Hokkaido Web: sportsentry.ne.jp/event/t/84815
Offroad Triathlon in Shobudani Shobudani is a popular cycling and driving route in Hyogo. Racers can sign up for the full triathlon (swim 1,200 meters, cycle 13 kilometers and trail run eight kilometers) or go for the relay or lite options. When: Aug. 9 Where: Shobudani Forest Park, Hyogo Web: tatunomtb.blog74.fc2.com
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OMM Lite and Bike Hakuba This entry-level race is designed to give newbies a feel of an Original Mountain Marathon (OMM) navigational race. The OMM Lite is a two-day race with some off-trail areas, but most is on trail with teams of two to five people. Families and friends who are not participating can camp with racers in the overnight camping area. The OMM Bike (the cycling version of OMM Lite) will be held simultaneously. When: July 17-18 Where: Hakuba, Nagano Web: theomm.jp
Mt. Rokko Trail Run and Summer Picnic This trail run is held on Mountain Day in Japan at Mt. Rokko which overlooks Osaka Bay. The 28-kilometer course goes up to 1,750 meters and takes about six hours, while the 10-kilometer race goes up to 300 meters and takes around four hours. There is also a family-friendly rogaining challenge held the same day. When: Aug. 8 Where: Kobe Municipal Arboretum, Hyogo Web: actrep-sports.com/mt-rokko-picnic
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2021 OSJ Ontake 100 Trail Run A normally inaccessible forest trail in Otaki Village will be opened for this 100-mile (160-kilometer) race that starts at 8 p.m. on July 17 and ends the next day. Runners can also opt for the 100-kilometer race starting at midnight. When: July 17-18 Where: Otaki, Nagano Web: powersports.co.jp/osjtrail/21_ontake100
Salomon 4100D Mountain Trail in Nozawa Onsen This trail run is set in the ski resort and hot spring village of Nozawa Onsen. There are long (65 kilometers), middle (23 kilometers) and short (14 kilometers) courses and participants can run solo, as a pair or in a group. When: July 23 Where: Nozawa Onsen, Nagano Web: s-mountain.com/nozawa
Lite
RACES
Kakitsu Trail Run This trail run follows castle ruins in the mountains of Harima. The race is divided into 30-kilometer and 10.4-kilometer categories. When: July 23 Where: Tatsuno, Hyogo Web: runninghigh.jp/kakitsu
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Tokyo’s Summer Olympics are taking center stage but there are still some great summer events and festivals to enjoy as Japan slowly crawls toward normalcy. Many events are being held on a smaller scale this year and some are still to be confirmed so always double check event websites for up-to-date information before attending. Be sure to check Outdoor Japan Online where more races and events will be added and updated as they are confirmed. Editor's Note: The situation regarding COVID-19 is changing daily. We encourage readers to follow local guidelines for stopping the spread of COVID-19 and practicing social distancing, mask wearing and other safety measures where required. Participating in races and events is solely each individuals decision.
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Central Alps Nishikoma Bokka Bokka in Japanese means to carry supplies up a mountain. This climb goes up to Nishikoma, Japan’s central Alps’ northernmost mountain hut built as an evacuation hut in 1913 and the tradition of preserving this hut continues with this trail run. Runners can choose between three or 15-kilogram stacks of firewood and run up to the 2,690-meter-high hut at Mt. Shogikashira. When: Sept. 5 Where: Kiso Mountains, Nagano Web: 2450bokka.web.fc2.com Zao Skyrun Run from spa to sky in Yamagata. The run starts from Zao Onsen’s hot spring town and heads up to the 1,840-meter-high Mt. Zao. You’ll also pass by the vivid-colored Lake Okama. When: Sept. 11-12 Where: Zao Onsen, Yamagata Web: zaoskyrun.com Shiga Kogen Hill Climb This hill climb race goes to Shibu Pass, Japan's highest peak on a national road. Cycle through Shiga Kogen and enjoy the region's hot springs and nature. Application deadline is July 31. When: Sept. 12 Where: Shiga Kogen, Nagano Web: shiga.yaesu-net.co.jp Gran Fondo Myoko Challenge yourself to Japan’s toughest one-day cycling event, which follows a 160-kilometer circuit around MyokoTogakushi Renzan National Park. The trail has a 4000-meter elevation and 30 kilometers of off-road sections. The race starts and ends at Myoko Ikenotaira Ski Resort, where you can unwind with beer and music. When: Sept. 18-19 Where: Myoko-Togakushi Renzan National Park, Niigata Web: gfmyoko.com Sea to Summit Montbell—Japan’s largest homegrown outdoor brand—is behind the popular Sea to Summit race series. Their goal is to invigorate local areas, holding events to experience nature through canoeing, cycling, trekking and other means of human-powered movement. When and Where: Aug. 21-22: Asahidake, Hokkaido Aug. 28-29: Mt. Chokai, Yamagata Sept. 25-26: Bizen, Okayama Oct. 16-17: Chikuma River, Nagano Oct. 23-24: Lake Biwa, Saga Nov. 13-14: Kioku, Mie Web: seatosummit.jp
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FIREWORKS July 22-25: Lake Rindo Fireworks, Tochigi July 30, Aug. 5, 9, 18, 22, 27: Atami Summer Fireworks, Shizuoka
Aug. 1: Tsuyama Noryou Gongo Festival, Okayama Aug. 14: Oto-to-Hikari Symphony Twin Rink Motegi Fireworks, Tochigi Aug. 14: 42nd Yamagata Fireworks, Yamagata Aug. 21: Yugawara Onsen Fireworks, Kanagawa Aug. 28: 94th National Fireworks Contest “Omagari no Hanabi,” Akita Sept. 4: Takasaki Fireworks, Gunma
Sept. 17: Nagahama and Northern Lake Biwa Fireworks, Shiga Sept. 25: Hachioji Fireworks, Tokyo
Sept. 26: Toyota Oiden Fireworks, Aichi
Oct. 3: Minogo Furusato Fireworks, Gunma
Oct. 8-9: Ichikawa Misato Furusato Summer Festival, Yamanashi Oct. 9: Saiki Jinmu Fire Festival, Oita
Oct. 10: 39th Gamagori Fireworks, Aichi
TRADITIONAL FESTIVALS July 1-10: Mt. Ishizuchi Mountain Opening Ceremony, Ehime July 1-31: 71st Maebashi Tanabata Festival, Gunma (Live stream available) July 9-10: Hattasan Mando Lantern Festival, Shizuoka July 13-16: 74th Mitama Matsuri, Tokyo July 14: Nachi Fire Festival, Wakayama
July 17: Horimatsu Tug-of-War Festival, Ishikawa July 17-Aug. 1: Ueno Summer Festival, Tokyo July 17-18: Asagoe Gion Festival, Shiga July 17-19: Kanazu Festival, Fukui
July 18: Koiji Fire Festival, Ishikawa
July 19-26: Senzaki Gion Festival, Yamaguchi July 20-27: Yamaguchi Gion Festival, Yamaguchi July 24: Shigaraki Fire Festival, Shiga
July 29: 53rd Hokkaido Heso Belly Button Festival, Hokkaido July 31: Kagami Shrine Summer Festival, Saga
Oct. 23: Sumidagawa Fireworks Festival, Tokyo Oct. 23: Sodegaura Citizen’s Summer Festival, Chiba Oct. 30: 43rd Urasoe Tedako Festival, Okinawa Nov. 6: 90th Tsuchiura National Fireworks, Ibaraki Nov. 16: 68th Todabashi Fireworks, Saitama
Summer 2021 | 7
GUIDE LINES
Sounds of Summer 2021 SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVALS IN JAPAN
MUSIC FESTIVALS
Ear th C ele br at Photos by
Photo by Noriteru Ino
ittee mm Co n io
FUJI ROCK
After a year hiatus, Fuji Rock is back this summer and is going local featuring a lineup of all homegrown acts. Normally held at Naeba Ski Resort in late July, the event has moved to August this year and is planning for about 65% of normal capacity, which means less crowds and more elbow room for Fuji Rockers and campers. Morio Takizawa, who has been Campground Director for Fuji Rock for 15 years and is the editor for Outdoor magazine says there is a renewed dedication to a “Leave no trace” policy for campers and festival-goers and promoting self-reliance for campers who are asked to bring everything they need and take everything out with them. “We are expecting a more relaxed vibe this summer, but campers do need to be prepared for hot, unpredictable weather,” he says. “Reusable masks, rechargeable batteries, alcohol spray, reusable water bottles, camping gear and rain gear are all advised. We ask campers to solo camp or to camp with people they live with,” he adds. There are no camping rentals available but there is a help desk for campers in need of assistance. Food stalls will be more spread out this year and organizers will be taking disease control precautions that they expect will be the new normal at festivals moving forward. Campground reservations are now available with ticket purchases. Check out the website for more details and lineup updates. For those wondering about Asagiri Jam 2021, no announcement has been made, but you can check for updates at asagirijam.jp. When: Aug. 20-22 Where: Naeba Ski Resort, Niigata Web: fujirockfestival.com
SUPERSONIC
Summersonic has been canceled due to the Tokyo Olympics, but the organizers have announced Supersonic, a more electronic version of the urban music festival, coming in September. When: Sept. 18-19 Where: Tokyo and Osaka Web: supersonic2020.com
M FESTIVAL
M Festival is back for its second year in Myoko. The event is billed as a celebration of music, art, wellness and healthy lifestyles with a diverse range of music styles.
8 | TRAVELER
Kodo, the world-renowned taiko group that calls Sado Island home, held their annual Earth Celebration last year as a live-stream-only event. There will be an official announcement soon whether they will go live or livestreamed so visit their website for updates. Two exciting shows are planned: on Saturday Tomohiro Mitome will celebrate his 30th anniversary as a Kodo member with a special celebration and some special guests. Sunday will feature a performance by Kodo’s all-stars. There will also be live-streamed workshops and lectures, promotion for followers to share Earth Celebration memories on Instagram and One Earth Music, where fans and musicians can play and share music compositions by Kodo. Looking ahead, 2022 will be the Earth Celebration's 35th anniversary and Kodo’s 40th. When: Aug. 20-22 Where: Ogi, Sado Island, Niigata Web: earthcelebration.jp
OTHER MUSIC EVENTS Rock in Japan Festival When: Aug. 7-9 and Aug. 14-15 Where: Hitachi Seaside Park, Ibaraki Web: rijfes.jp Rising Sun Rock Festival in Ezo When: Aug. 13-14 Where: Ishikari, Hokkaido Web: rsr.wess.co.jp/2021/ Music Circus When: Sept. 4-5 Where: Osaka Sennen Rinku Park, Osaka Web: music-circus.jp Sunshine Festival When: Sept. 18-20 Where: Yuzawa, Niigata Web: sunshinefestival.jp Rainbow Camp When: Oct. 2-3 Where: Iiji Kogen Nature Tent Village, Ena, Gifu Web: rainbowchild2020.com
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When: Sept. 25-26 Where: Ikenotaira Resort, Myoko, Niigata Web: m-festival.com
EARTH CELEBRATION
Photo by Fuji Mountain Guides
in 2021 BY GARDNER ROBINSON
If you live in Japan and Mt. Fuji is still on your bucket list, the pandemic could be a panacea for procrastination this summer. The trails to the summit of Japan’s most iconic mountain may never again be so free of crowds. So in the words of Phil Knight and the four veteran Mt. Fuji Climbing guides we talked to about the upcoming climbing season—just do it!
L
ife is full of ups and downs, but lately it feels like we’ve been trapped in that old Richard Fariña novel, “Been Down So Long It Looks Like Up to Me.” Your favorite restaurants and taprooms have been closed; you can’t remember the last time you saw live music or went on a proper vacation. You’ve got cabin fever and itchy feet. Well, as any mountain lover will tell you, “Sometimes you just need a change in altitude.” The 2021 climbing season may be best time to climb Mt. Fuji in decades. Crowds will be thinned on the trails and in the huts due to inbound travel restrictions and others staying home as Japan slogs forward with vaccination goals. We talked to four Mt. Fuji climbing guides about what this season will mean to those making the pilgrimage and how to get the most out of the experience.
“Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting, so… get on your way!” —Dr. Seuss
Brent Potter is head guide at Fuji Mountain Guides, which started in 2007 as Mt. Fuji’s first English-speaking guide service. Each of his guides do 32 to 40 climbs a season and they have guided more than 5,000 guests safely to the summit. August is the most popular time to climb when weather is most stable and the summit the least cold—but it's also the most crowded, which, he admits can take away from the experience. “To avoid crowds and maximize good weather, I always recommend climbing in mid-to-late September, but weather gets more unstable as the summer goes on so keeping a careful eye on the forecast is key,” he says. “On a typical season, we guide from June 25 to Oct. 15. While certain trails officially close after Sept. 5, we are able to keep hiking later in the season on the Subashiri Trail,” he adds. After Sept. 5, huts close and trail markers are taken down. There is no medical support in the event of an injury or evacuation so climbers need to be self-sufficient, or better yet, go with an experienced guide. “Foreign visitors account for roughly 30% of the climbers on Mt. Fuji so 2021 could be the least crowded time to climb in 50 years. This could be the last chance in our lifetimes that Fuji is so peaceful, so don’t miss your chance!” Potter exclaims.
Summer 2021 | 9
Photo by Kanto Adventures
Photo by Whole Earth Nature School
Manabu Futsuki has been guiding on Mt. Fuji for 10 years with his company, Whole Earth Nature School. He also guides guests to the Aokigahara Forest and nearby caves and villages at the foot of Mt. Fuji. Over the past few years he could see Fuji was getting overcrowded during climbing season and since the mountain was officially closed last year he believes it was a good natural recovery period with reduced erosion from trekking, less pollution and better air quality. “This summer, not only is Japan still closed to inbound visitors, but I also think there will be fewer Japanese people climbing Mt. Fuji, so it will be pretty quiet with fewer hikers and better for the environment,” says Futsuki. He recommends climbing in small groups of people who ideally live together. During his tours he asks his guests to give other groups plenty of room and wear masks if they are passing others on the trail. He also encourages people to enjoy nature on the hike, not just focusing on getting to the top. “Look at the vegetation, landscape, clouds, weather and within yourself. If you have a guide with you, it’ll be easier to appreciate these and other parts of the hike, he adds.
“Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence.” —Hermann Buhl
10 | TRAVELER
David Niehoff started Kanto Adventures in 2012 with a focus on human-powered outdoor adventures, specifically hiking, mountaineering and rock climbing. He does about 30 to 35 climbs a year with private and group trips starting from the last week of April and continuing through the first week of November. "Personally I prefer October when the snow has fallen on the upper part of the mountain; the air is very clear and the views are amazing during the fall,“ says Niehoff. “Our off-season trips often involve snow and ice, requiring ice axes and crampons to make it up. In summer we take people on one-day and overnight trips via the least crowded routes,” he adds. His advice for first time climbers? “Have good quality gear. Specifically good boots and rain gear make a huge difference in the experience. Fitness is probably the biggest point affecting how much someone will enjoy it—and the best training for mountain climbing is climbing mountains, so getting out on some hikes with at least 1,000 meters of elevation gained in a day. It will provide huge dividends when climbing something as big as Fuji,” he points out. Niehoff notes mountain huts are reducing capacity so it is highly likely there will be fewer people on the mountain, potentially reducing the traffic jams that Mt. Fuji is famous for on the most popular routes. “People come to the mountains to experience nature and solitude, and shuffling along with thousands of people before sunrise is not ideal, so this might be a great time to do it,” he says.
Photo by Fuji Mountain Guides
Photo by FYG Mountain Guides
“There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.” —Sir Ranulph Fiennes
WEB CONNECTION All guides suggest checking the official Mt. Fuji website for up-to-date COVID-19 guidelines, weather and route information in advance at fujisan-climb.jp.
FYG Mountain Guides Web: fujiyamaguides.com Head Guide: Shoji Matsumoto Kanto Adventures Web: kantoadventures.com Head Guide: David Niehoff Whole Earth Nature School Web: wens.gr.jp Head Guide: Manabu Futsuki Check out the extended article at OutdoorJapan.com.
Photo by FYG Mountain Guides
FYG Mountain Guides and head guide Shoji Matsumoto have been doing private climbing tours on Mt. Fuji for clients from all over the world since 2008. They run tours from early July to early September and don’t mix groups so guests can enjoy climbing Mt. Fuji at their own pace without any worries. Matsumoto has taken guests to the top of Fuji more than 200 times. His climbing schedule varies year to year as he also guides other mountains in Japan. His favorite time on Mt. Fuji is just before and after sunrise. “On our tours, we don't see the sunrise at the top of the mountain because it’s very crowded. I like to be in a quiet place and feel the changing sky, cloud color, and temperature as the sunrise comes with my whole body,” he says. His advice for novice climbers is to do it at a time you are usually awake as climbing a mountain with little or no sleep is very hard on the body, increases the likelihood of altitude sickness and reduces alertness, which increases the risk of injury. He also suggests bringing basic mountaineering equipment with you. “Fuji takes about 12 hours if you do it over two days and is not a mountain for beginners. It is a good idea to climb other mountains beforehand to experience the same length and time on the mountain while getting used to equipment,” he adds. v
Fuji Mountain Guides Web: fujimountainguides.com Head Guide: Brent Potter
Summer 2021 | 11
Camping in Japan
O U T D O O R J A PA N ' S G U I D E T O C A M P I N G , A U T O C A M P I N G & GLAMPING IN THE GREEN SEASON
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scape the crowds this summer at more than 3,000 campsites across the country offering everything from free camping with basic tent sites to well-equipped auto campgrounds and luxurious glamping, cabins or cottages. Visit several spots traveling by camper van and enjoy the ultimate freedom of the road.
HOKKAIDO Yoteizan Makkari Campsite This campsite at the foot of Mt. Yotei is ideal for hikers (especially the Makkari Course). Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags BBQ Facilities: Yes. Firewood also available. Access: Two hours and 20 minutes by bus from Sapporo Station. Web: vill.makkari.lg.jp Sunayu Campsite Lake Kussharo was named by the Ainu because hot springs ooze from the lake’s sandy beach. Campers can dig their own hot springs on the shores of the lake. Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 25 minutes by bus from Kawayu Onsen Station on the Senmo Line. Tel: (015) 484-2254 Higashi-Onuma Campsite FREE Part of Onuma Quasi National Park, this free campsite sits on the shores of Lake Onuma overlooking an active volcano, Mt. Komagatake. Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: A nine-minute walk from Choshiguchi Station on the Hakodate Line.
TOHOKU Utarube Camp (Aomori) This campsite is on the eastern end of Lake Towada on the Mikura Peninsula. Enjoy a frontrow view of the Hakkoda Mountains. Oirase Gorge, with its many waterfalls, is nearby. Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: Three hours by bus from Aomori Station to Kokumin Shukusha-mae Bus Stop. Tel: (0176) 75-2477
12 | TRAVELER
Tazawako Camp (Akita)
Konashidaira Camp (Nagano)
This campsite provides easy access to Tazawako, Japan’s deepest lake where you can enjoy water sports and even sunset kayaking. Other popular activities nearby include hiking, downriver canoeing, shower climbing and whitewater rafting. Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Bungalows English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets, hammocks, chairs BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 15 minutes by bus from Tazawako Station to Tazawako Rest House-mae Bus Stop. Web: tazawako.net
Kamikochi is the mecca of hiking and camping in Japan. This campsite along the clear Azusa River and near the famous Kappa Bridge has easy access to popular hiking trails in the area. Accommodation: Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, hot water bottles, benches, chairs, lanterns BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: An hour and ten minutes by bus from Shin-Shimashima Station to Kamikochi Bus Stop. Web: nihonalpskankou.com
Angel Forest Nasu Shirakawa (Fukushima) This pet-friendly campsite is popular with dog lovers for its spacious outdoor and indoor dog park, forest walking trails and even an onsen dedicated to pets. Popular activities here include fishing, canoeing and cycling (pets are welcome to join too). Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Glamping, Log Cabins, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, sleeping bags, lanterns, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food also available for purchase Access: 30 minutes by car from Shirakawa IC on the Tohoku Expressway. Web: ang-f-ns.com
CHUBU Kubota Camp (Niigata) Sado Island has a storied past as an island for exiles and political prisoners. Today, contemporary art and culture flourish on this beautiful island including taiko drumming and noh theater. Kubota Campground sits on a shallow beach in a pine grove along Mano Bay on the west side of the island. Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 45 minutes by bus from Ryotsu Port to Sawada Bus Stop. Tel: (0259) 57-8123
Hoshitoge Tree Camp (Nagano) Overlook Hoshitoge’s picturesque rice terraces at this environmentally conscious campsite. Tents are set up on a wood deck that provides excellent sunset views, and is equipped with a bio toilet and outdoor bath. There is also a cozy cafe called Cha-ya that serves drinks, local craft beer and rice balls (may be closed depending on season). Although tents are available for rent, be sure to bring your own food and sleeping gear. Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, blankets BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 60 minutes by car from Muikamachi IC on the Kanetsu Expressway or Joetsu IC on the Hokuriku Expressway. Web: hoshitoge.jp Inn the Park (Shizuoka) Self dubbed as a “park you can stay in,” this glamping site is nestled in Numazu’s forests. Relax in a spherical dome tent suspended from the trees and enjoy seasonal dishes at the on-site restaurant. Hot bath facilities and pet-friendly glamping tents are also available. Accommodation: Glamping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Fully furnished BBQ Facilities: On-site restaurant Access: 10 minutes by car from Numazu IC on the Tomei Expressway. Web: innthepark.jp
KANTO
OKINAWA
Moose Family Camp Resort (Tochigi)
Jungle Hut Okinawa
Get a taste of U.S.A. at this American-style campsite located next to a stream. The campsite is equipped with a swimming pool, a children’s room, jacuzzi, bike rentals and fishing pond (October-May). Each site has water, a sewage dump and electricity. Accommodation: Camping, Auto Camping, Cabins, Trailers English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Tents, chairs, sleeping bags BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: 20 minutes by car from Nasukogen IC on the Tohoku Expressway. Web: moosefamilycampresort.com
Enjoy your own private beach and jungle on Hamahiga Island, a quiet island connected by a bridge to Okinawa’s main island. Rental bicycles and sea kayaking tours available. Accommodation: Glamping Huts English-Speaking Staff: Yes Rental Equipment: Fully furnished BBQ Facilities: Yes Access: There are several taxis departing from Kaneku Gyokou (Fishing Port) Mae or Higa Gyokou (Fishing Port) Mae and will cost under ¥1,000 to Hamahiga Island. Web: campingokinawa.com
Comoriver (Saitama) Get in touch with nature at this idyllic riverside campsite along Toki River. There’s also a mobile sauna. Luxury glamping tents and cabins also available. For a unique experience, drive over to the retro Tamagawa Onsen built in the Showa-era style. Accommodation: Glamping, Camping, Cabins English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Chairs, tables, tarp BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food available for purchase. Access: 30 minutes by car from Sakado-nishi Smart IC on the Kanetsu Expressway. Web: comoriver.com
KANSAI Resort Oshima (Wakayama) Go diving, snorkeling, sea kayaking, whale watching, SUP with your pet, spelunking and exploring an uninhabited island at this seaside outdoor resort on Wakayama’s Oshima Island. You can also relax at the outdoor rotenburo bath overlooking the sea. Accommodation: Glamping, Camping, Cottages English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: Tents, tarp, lanterns, blankets, sleeping bags BBQ Facilities: Yes. Food available for purchase. Access: 40 minutes by car from Susami Minami IC on National Road 42. Web: resortohshima.com Hygge Circles Ugakei (Mie) This sustainable campsite is a collaboration between a Danish and Japanese design team and built entirely from renewable materials and repurposed building waste. It is set to open this autumn in Inabe, a two-hour train ride east of Kyoto. This region is prized for its waterfalls and forests. Accommodation: Glamping, Camping, Tents English-Speaking Staff: Yes Access: 50 minutes by car from Yokaichi IC on the Meishin Expressway.
Yoneyama Camp (Ishigaki) This campsite is just a few minutes drive from Ishigaki’s famous Kabira Bay. Snorkel in clear waters among tropical fish and coral reefs, stroll along the coast and enjoy the sunset. Shared bathrooms and showers are available. Accommodation: Camping English-Speaking Staff: No Rental Equipment: No BBQ Facilities: No Access: 20 minutes by car from Ishigaki Airport via National Road 390 and Prefectural Road 87. Tel: (0903) 079-3522
CAMPIN G CA R Overland Campers Japan Overland Campers Japan transforms fourwheel drives into mobile homes great for long-distance travel to remote locations. Explore Japan in a Suzuki Jimny Sierra or Toyota FJ Cruiser. Web: overlandjapan.com Dream Drive Japan Dream Drive maps out onsen and spots for travelers to easily park for the night. Their recommended routes include a loop around Mt. Fuji, a weekend to the Izu peninsula and a road trip from Tokyo to Kyoto. Check out their custom-built kei-vans and fullsize vans that sleep up to four persons. Web: dreamdrive.life ADDITIONAL CAMPING CAR RENTALS
• Japan Road Trip: japanroadtrip.com • Tokyo RV Campers: tokyo-rv.com • Japan Campers: japancampers.com • CamGo: camgo-campervan.com • Japan By Van: japanbyvan.com • Arigato Camper : arigatocampervan.com • Camp in Car: japan-campervan.com
KID S' CA M PS Tokyo Coding Club (Nagano and Niigata) Dates: June 27-July 30 Ages: 7 and up Tokyo Coding Club is hosting overnight summer camps in Hakuba, Myoko Kogen and central Tokyo offering programming, robotics, design, animation and video editing classes combined with outdoor activities. The camps in Hakuba and Myoko Kogen include outdoor activities such as tree adventure navigation, disc golf, rafting and raft making, yoga and fruit picking. Lessons and activities will be conducted in English by professional instructors. Web: tokyocodingclub.co.jp Canyons Summer Camp (Gunma) Dates: June 27-July 30 Ages: 8 and up T h e s e m u l t i - d a y c a m p s a re r u n b y a n international team of professionals at Canyons who will be mentoring children on navigation, shelters, outdoor cooking, whitewater, risk management and “leave no trace” living. Web: canyons.jp EdVenture Summer Kids Camp (Hokkaido) Dates: Between June 14-Aug. 13 Ages: 3 and up Choose between three or five-day camps; experiences include custom skateboard building, tree planting workshops, mountain biking, cultural excursions and organic vegetable farm visits. Web: edventureniseko.com Evergreen Summer Camp (Nagano) Dates: Day camps and multi-day camps between June 27-Aug. 21 Ages: 7 and up Evergreen Outdoor Center in H a kub a r u n s o u t d o o r e d u c a t i o n p ro g r a m s f o r international schools, families and groups in the Japan Alps. Programs range from day experiences to nine-day camps. Activities include raft building, hiking, river rafting, canyoning, mountain biking, stand-up paddle boarding, tree climbing, rock climbing, and orienteering. Web: evergreen-hakuba.com English Adventure (Niigata) Dates: Multi-day camps between Aug. 3-23 Ages: 6 and up E n g l i s h A d v e n t u re r u n s E n g l i s h c a m p experiences for children from kindergarten to middle school. This three-day camp is nestled in the mountains near Tsunan in Niigata and emphasizes English speaking skills, personal development and growth. Fun camp activities include crafts, camp games, hiking and campfires. Web: english-adventure.org v
Check out the full Camping Guide online at OutdoorJapan.com.
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Japan's digital nomads INTERVIEW WITH RUTH AISLING Photos by Ruth Aisling and Bappa Shota
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cenes of custom-built, cozy mobile homes with people gazing out at a stunning sunrise at the beach while sipping freshly brewed coffee has no doubt landed in your social media feed. “Van life” and camper van rentals have become especially popular during pandemic times as more people work remotely and actively avoid crowds while traveling domestically. However, there are a few adventurous folks, like Ruth Aisling and Bappa Shota, who have completely embraced this minimalist, nomadic lifestyle and made their van their full-time home and office. This couple has been on the road since January 2020 and is currently making their way through Japan’s 47 prefectures in their converted Nissan Caravan. Outdoor Japan caught up with Ruth to talk about the perks—and not-soglamorous realities—of van life.
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Rie Miyoshi: How did you get started traveling Japan by van? Ruth Aisling: My boyfriend Shota and I had been wanting to become digital nomads for a while. We’ve been working online since 2017 while living in Mexico, Scotland and a few other countries. I had worked a corporate job for six years prior, but in 2017, we started working on online businesses and a YouTube channel, which is our main focus now. We decided to move to Japan in 2020 for a year. I’d been here twice before, once for a short trip to all the major attractions, and another time in 2017 for half a year traveling by motorbike throughout Japan. This time, instead of staying in one location, we wanted to see other places and thought we could live in a van and travel while working online. We got the van in January 2020 and spent a month on renovations. RM: So right at the start of the pandemic. RA: We were so lucky we got here before borders closed or else we would have been stranded in another country and wouldn’t have been able to start our Japan journey. RM: Did you and Shota grow up spending time in the outdoors? RA: I grew up in Scotland, which is a great place for hiking and camper van travel. Both my parents are very adventurous. They like hiking and spent their honeymoon trekking the Annapurna Circuit. We camped a lot and had a caravan when I was younger. Shota grew up in Himeji and he was interested in running and baseball. He left Japan when he was 19-years-old and spent a decade traveling the world and exploring deeper spots.
RM: Did both of you have experience renovating a van? RA: When we started out, we didn’t have a big budget for the van so we got a 15-year-old Nissan caravan. We worked everyday for long hours. I didn’t have any DIY experience, but Shota had worked as a landscape gardener. He also did a working holiday in New Zealand where he had experience cutting wood and using the drill. We also watched a lot of YouTube how-to videos, like how to make a kitchen. Our van turned out better than we expected, and we’re so happy with the end result! RM: What are some of the best parts of living in a van? RA: It’s really nice to always have our “house” with us. We can make coffee any time and our clothes and gear are always with us so if we want to go, for example, hiking, all our hiking gear is here already. Another thing I love about van life is waking up in a new place, whether it’s next to the sea, by a river or in the mountains. When we get tired of the view then we just head off somewhere else. We also get to explore off-the-beaten parts of Japan because we can take back roads to secluded mountain spots and find lovely spots to stay. Thankfully our families and friends are really supportive of what we’re doing. As van life has become more common, especially during the last two years, we’ve had a lot of positive feedback. People are really interested in our van, especially if they see it from the outside—they want to see what it’s like inside.
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RM: What about the challenges? RA: A lot of people ask us, “How do you guys survive living in such a small space?” But we managed one year without killing each other! (laughs) A challenge many couples have when living in a camper van is giving each other space. So for example, one of us goes for a run or walk, and when needed, one person will rent a hotel or AirBnB for the night while the other one stays in the van. We also have to be mindful of how much water and electricity we use. At home we have easy access to water and power, but on the road we have to constantly think about where we’re parked for the night and where to fill our water supply. We use solar panels to power our batteries. We also have to plan our exercise routine. There’s no shower in the van, so we try to exercise on days when we know we’re going to an onsen later. Finally, the rainy season is the toughest season to van life in Japan. Everything gets soaked especially when we run out to use the public bathrooms (there’s no bathroom in the van) and it’s hard to dry towels and clothes. It’s also hard to get solar power. There are ways to overcome it, like recharging batteries at cafes or using dryers at the onsen. If it rains for one or two days, it’s manageable, but constant rain for four or five days is tough. RM: What do you do when the weather gets too extreme? RA: The camper van can get really hot in summer. But the good thing is Japan is a long country and the climates are so different between the north and south. So in summer, we head north: this year we’re heading up to Tohoku. When it gets too cold, we head south. Last year, we went to Kyushu.
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It still gets pretty hot in summer regardless of where we are, and we don’t have air conditioning in the van because it would use too much power and hurts the environment. So we have mosquito nets and a fan and leave both doors open, which feels really cooling especially when we’re near the sea. RM: Where are you currently calling home? RA: We’re in Toyama Prefecture now, waiting for the weather to clear up so we can hike Tateyama. RM: How long do you usually stay in one location? RA: It depends, for example we’ve been at this campsite for five days now. On sunny days, we’re usually doing something outdoors and filming for our YouTube channel. On days in between, we’re researching where to go next and stay that’s close to an onsen and supermarket. We also catch up on editing and other work. RM: Japan is a pretty safe country, but have you encountered any weird or dangerous situations? RA: Like you said, Japan is very safe. No one’s ever tried to open the van at night or broken into our van, which I’ve heard stories of in other countries. If anything, it’s the animals. We stay at a lot of rural campsites and there are always warning signs about bears and snakes. We always have bear spray and bells. The only time we encountered bears though was in Shiretoko while we were driving. We saw three bears crossing the road. We’ve encountered a few snakes at campsites, especially in Okinawa where there are lots of habu (pit vipers) around. RM: What’s your favorite place you’ve traveled to so far? RA: Last summer we spent four months in Hokkaido. Hokkaido in summer is van life paradise! There are a lot of free campsites, amazing driving routes, outdoor onsens and delicious food. I also enjoyed Tokushima. We were there for three months as we got stuck there because of the state of emergency. We explored the Iya Valley a lot and I’d love to go back in autumn when the leaves change color. We’re also aiming to climb the Hyakumeizan (One Hundred Mountains of Japan), so I’m really looking forward to Nagano as a lot of the Hyakumeizan mountains are there.
RM: How did you manage to get your van to Hokkaido and Okinawa? RA: It’s actually pretty easy to bring your vehicle to Hokkaido. There are vehicle ferries from Niigata and Kyoto—we sent ours from Kyoto for around ¥40,000. It took 24 hours. Sending your vehicle to Okinawa is a bit more difficult. We took the ferry from Kagoshima to Naha. When we sent the van to the other islands like Miyakojima and Ishigaki, we used a house moving company so we can’t ride the ferry with the van as it’s in a shipping container. The process is all in Japanese. RM: I noticed you call your van “Toni” in your YouTube videos. What’s the story behind the name? RA: When we first got our van, we knew we wanted to give our van a name but weren't sure what name to choose. While working on the conversion, we were looking at the number plate. Japanese number plates usually start with a letter followed by some numbers. Our number plate started with the Japanese hiragana character と (to) followed by the number two which is に (ni). W h e n c o m b i n e d t o g e t h e r, t h e f i r s t t w o characters read as “Toni” and the name for our van was born! RM: What advice do you have for someone interested in van life? RA: The number one thing I always tell people is that if you’re interested, rent a camper van first and see if you like it. It’s not for everyone and you can’t bring a ton of luggage. Shota and I were already living minimally as we were constantly traveling. But you really just need one of each thing when you travel: one pair of hiking shoes, one pair of sandals, a rain jacket and so on. So just focus on one thing. To save space in the camper van, we also store some clothes at Shota’s parents’ house. In summer we have one wardrobe, then when the season changes, we send back those clothes and Shota’s parents send us our winter clothes package. RM: What’s the biggest thing you’ve learned through van life?
RA: I learned a lot living off the grid and having a
minimal impact on the environment. It’s hard to find places to throw trash away in Japan, which made us conscientious about how much trash we create. We also rely on solar power: the solar panels on the roof of the van are connected to portable batteries. Once they’re charged, they can last about four days. Even if it’s a little bit cloudy, we can get some solar energy and the batteries will charge by themselves.
RM: What are your future van life plans? RA: Van life will always be a part of our life, but I don’t think we’ll live in our van forever. At the moment our main goal is to visit all 47 prefectures and experience them at a deeper level, spending two to three weeks at each prefecture instead of rushing through. We’re still on our 10th prefecture so we still have a way to go, probably another year or so. We already traveled Hokkaido and Okinawa which are quite big ones, so we’re currently back on Honshu and focused on that for the rest of the year. After that, we’re not sure yet! v
Follow Ruth and Shota’s van life journey across Japan on their YouTube channel, Bappa Shota, their blog, bappashota.com and Instagram at @RuthAisling and @Bappa.Shota.
Summer 2021 | 17
Iriomote's Endangered Wildcats
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aking international travel plans these days is complicated—if not impossible—but if you want to go somewhere that feels foreign without leaving Japan, Okinawa’s Iriomote Island, with its lush rainforests, makes for an unforgettable eco tourism destination. It’s here that you can hike through the jungle with a chance to run into Iriomote’s critically endangered wildcats. Iriomote is a 289-square-kilometer island that lies to the west of Ishigaki. It’s home to 2,400 residents and is 90% rainforest. It remained largely untouched until the end of World War II as it was a hotbed of malaria (it has since been eradicated) and often lies in the path of typhoons. Today it is part of Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park, Japan’s southernmost national park known for manta ray diving, vast mangrove forests and tropical beaches. Iriomote is also the only place in the world where you can find the Iriomote yamaneko (mountain cat), a wild cat endemic to the island. This cat is a subspecies of the leopard, but no larger than a domestic cat. It is characterized by white spots behind its round ears, white fur around its eyes, a large flat nose and a fat tail.
It’s said that the land was originally separated from the Eurasian Continent and with it came the cats. Since this car nivorous cat has spent 90,000 years in isolation without other small mammals, it evolved to feed on a wide variety of creatures such as lizards, snakes, frogs, crickets, fruit bats, birds and freshwater prawns. Feeding on a diverse range of prey is a unique characteristic only seen in Iriomote cats. The yamaneko was academically recognized in 1965 by an ecologist named Yukio Togawa who followed rumors of a wildcat in Iriomote. “After discovering the wildcats, two of them were kept for research purposes at our house for around twoand-a-half years at the request of the Japanese government,” remembers Kumi Togawa, Yukio’s daughter. “I was a child then, but I remember they were very wild and completely different from domestic cats. They always hissed at me when I approached them. They also had a “wild” odor, the kind that you smell at the zoo. When my father brought them food, they warmed up to him, and so he and his trusted assistant became the only ones who could take care of them.”
Photo by Iriomote Wildlife Conservation Center
Photo by Taketomi Tourism
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Photo by Iriomote Wildlife Conservation Center
Photo by Taketomi Tourism
Scientists the world over were thrilled about this new discovery—the fact that a wild cat could inhabit such a small island was a miracle in itself—and various steps were made to relocate residents to preserve space for this cat. Naturally, the locals held mixed feelings: pride over their island and resentment at the wildcat being prioritized over their livelihood. Thankfully they were able to reach a happy medium as researchers found that wildcats and locals could peacefully coexist. Today most development is on the eastern coast of the island. There are two main villages: Ohara and Uehara, which are connected by one road. Other coastal villages can only be reached by boat. While there is just one major road on Iriomote, in recent years the growing traffic from resort development has resulted in unsuspecting cats being hit by vehicles, while careless agriculture practices have destroyed habitat, which has impacted their feeding and breeding grounds. The wildcat has been on the International Union for Conservation of Nature Red List of Threatened Species since 2008 and there are currently only 100 to 150 cats left on the island. Contrary to the domestic cat, yamaneko only live seven to eight years in the wild and give birth annually to only one or two kittens at a time. They are mostly nocturnal and especially active at dawn and sunset. Iriomote, along with Amami Oshima, Tokunoshima and the Yanbaru Region in Okinawa mainland, is expected to
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become Japan’s newest UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site in the summer of 2021. It’s predicted that visitors will double to a worrying 700,000 within three years. As it stands, more travelers visit Iriomote annually than other World Natural Heritage Sites across Japan— more than even Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands. Non-profit organizations such as the Japan Tiger and Elephant Fund (JTEF) started by Kumi Togawa are taking measures to protect the wildcat. “All living things are constantly evolving, so we should not stop that process,” says Togawa. “The species JTEF works on conserving are all endangered, and I want them to stay on this planet forever. Conserving them means conserving our planet. Initially we started this NPO to protect tigers and elephants in India. In 2019, we included Iriomote wildcats to this list as I wanted to fulfill my father's wishes that Iriomote’s rich nature and its many creatures, including the wildcats, would remain safely.” JTEF’s Roadkill Prevention Program conducts a night patrol of the main road every evening to remind drivers to slow down. “Every year the number of wildcats getting hit by car increases. Our team of around 20 volunteers work to remove small frogs and birds on the road that have been run over, so that they don’t attract wildcats to the roads,” says Yusuke Takayama, who is based in Iriomote. “We also analyze traffic data and regulate speed limits. We
use this data to conduct environmental and educational workshops with local schools so that we can all work together to create a safer environment for the cats.” Additionally, they assess the impact of development projects and take on an advisory role to regulate the number of visitors entering the island. Us 4 Iriomote spearheaded by footwear company Keen is another organization that works on educating travelers on visiting Iriomote responsibly and partnering with local environmental awareness programs. They also started the Yamaneko 530 Art project to encourage travelers to pick up plastic trash they find and put it in a special designated box. This summer, they will be releasing “Us 4 Iriomote: the Movie,” a short documentary directed by Choji Nakahodo, who is from the neighboring Ishigaki Island. The Ishigaki-bornand-raised photographer grew up surrounded by nature. He developed a passion for nature photography while working in tourism photography in his 20s on Okinawa’s main island. “This film is about how nature, tradition and culture influence everyday life in Iriomote,” says Nakahodo. “I hope it evokes a sense of wonder in the people who watch it, and that they too will want to experience Iriomote for themselves.” The movie will be released in July 2021 and available to view at us4iriomote.org/movie.v
Photo by Taketomi Tourism
HOW YOU CAN HELP ・ Drive slowly if you choose to rent a car. ・Stay on designated tracks when hiking and exploring the forest. ・ When hiking avoid strong flashlights unless it is absolutely necessary. ・ Do not attempt to feed or set up feeding traps for animals. ・ Do not bring in alien species or release pets as they will become an invasive species. Escaped goats have become a pest in the past few years. ・ Do not remove or take nature and rare species home. ・Do not move creatures from the location you find them. ・Travel responsibly. Be respectful of the locals, nature and don't litter.
Photo by Taketomi Tourism
IRIOMOTE WILDLIFE CONSERVATION CENTER This informative center primarily focuses on conservation of the yamaneko, complete with a taxidermy mount and skeleton specimens. Displays explain environmental protection efforts and exhibits on Iriomote's natural history and ecosystems. Admission is free. Web: iwcc.jp
Photo by Iriomote Wildlife Conservation Center
GETTING THERE The best way to get to Iriomote is by flying into Painushima Ishigaki Airport on the neighboring Ishigaki Island. Most travelers combine a trip to both of these islands, or base themselves out of Ishigaki and take day or short multi-day trips to Iriomote and the other surrounding islands. There are two ports on Iriomote: Uehara to the north (40 minutes from Ishigaki) and Ohara to the south (35 minutes from Ishigaki). Ferries are approximately ¥3,500 round trip per person. v
For more information on what to do in Iriomote, go to OutdoorJapan.com.
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H O N E Y B U S I N E SS BY GARDNER ROBINSON
Children in Japan love bugs. Pairs of kids running around neighborhoods with insect nets and clear plastic boxes hanging around their necks is not an uncommon sight each summer. Growing up in Kumamoto, Akinori Kai was no different. What sets him apart is he turned his passion for bugs into a buzzing business—the Kodo Bee Farm in Tokushima.
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h e Yo s h i n o g a w a f l o w s d e e p t h r o u g h the mountains in Tokushima Prefecture, meandering through small towns and rice fields and squeezing through beautiful gorges. The river finally reaches the sea where nearby beaches famously attract surfers. It’s a beautiful natural environment and a place where traditions such as indigo tie dye fabrics and awa dancing in summer can still be found. Akinori Kai spent a lot of time outdoors growing up in Kyushu. When he graduated from university he worked at a sporting goods store for a year and a half, but realized he wanted to be in the outdoors, not working in a shop. “I really love all kinds of insects so after I quit the sports shop, I looked for a job related to insects. My first option was a silkworm farm, but business didn’t seem very good so I started to learn about beekeeping,” he says. Aki found a job with a large beekeeping company in his hometown in Kumamoto. He worked there for a year and then did beekeeping in Hokkaido for four months before setting up his own apiary in Tokushima: Kodo Bee Farm. Every year the Yoshinogawa spills over into the low fields creating rich soil and spreading wild flower seeds. Honeybees thrive in this environment.
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“The floods can also destroy the beehives so I must move mine from the riverside to the mountains before flood season each year. The river is a risk and reward for me and other farmers—like the Nile River in ancient Egypt. It’s an unpredictable and beautiful natural place,” he says. He studied English in the Philippines to prepare himself for travels abroad to do research and learn new beekeeping techniques. “Malaysian and Russian beekeeping was particularly interesting,” he says. “I need to go again.” He’s also found a way to bring the world to him in Tokushima where he regularly hosts volunteers who come to learn about beekeeping and help out with the easier tasks like harvesting honey. It’s also important to check inside of the hives and make sure the queen bee is healthy so colonies are growing. “Visitors seem to enjoy their time here because beekeeping is such an unusual thing for most of them,” he says. Kodo Bee Farm keeps more than 150 colonies of European honey bees in Tokushima, which he manages by himself and with two or more volunteers. The main job is taking care of all the bee colonies that produce the honey, which he sells at about 60 supermarkets, mainly in Osaka.
“One bee colony contains around 10,000 worker bees, and I have more than 150 colonies. So I’ve got about 1,500,000 workers. Sounds like a big company, don’t you think?” he jokes. While it sounds like a lot of bees, many farmers in Japan want to buy bee colonies, but there simply aren’t enough on the market. Demand is much larger than supply right now. K o d o ’s E u ro p e a n b e e s a re I t a l i a n . M o s t beekeepers around the world favor Italian bees because they are great at producing honey. When working with the bees he usually wears a jumpsuit and net, which protects his head. Nearly all beekeepers also wear gloves to avoid getting stung on their hands, but Aki chooses to forgo the protection. “I work faster barehanded,” he states. “Yes, I usually get stung more than 10 times each day, but it doesn't bother me anymore. It’s my job.” It took a while for him to get used to the stings. When he first started, his hands swelled up like balloons each day. His co-workers at his first beekeeping company required him to keep working even when his hands hurt. This was difficult for a novice he remembers, but the experience made him a tougher beekeeper. “Kodo" ( 黄 道 ) means 'ecliptic.' Bees are constantly locating the sun in relation to the ecliptic plane to determine the direction to the flower fields, and they share the information with other worker bees. “It is amazing these small insects have such an advanced brain and communication system. I was so impressed by this, I named my business Kodo Bee Farm,” he says.
Bees are incredibly important to the health of local ecosystems. Strawberries, tomatoes, melon and many other fruits and vegetables rely on pollination to grow. Flowers and plants naturally increase in local environments where bee colonies are present. And it doesn’t hurt to have access to fresh, delicious honey. Tokushima has many hidden gems for active travelers. There’s great hiking on Mt. Tsurugi, whitewater rafting on the Yoshinogawa and cycling and motorcycling in the Iya Valley. Kodo Bee Farm is helping add to the natural beauty of the area and travelers interested in learning about bee farming can contact Aki by e-mail, through Kodo Bee Farm’s Facebook page or visit his Workaway page to volunteer. May, June, September and October are the busy seasons for harvesting honey. v
KODO BEE FARM ( 黄道ビーファーム )
Location: Awa-shi, Tokushima E-mail: sorao8009@gmail.com Facebook: facebook.com/kodobeefarm Workaway: workaway.info/en/host/953743428324
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EatingWild BY JOAN BAILEY
in Japan
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inifred Bird wants you to eat outside. While this admonition may not seem odd (who doesn’t love a picnic, after all?), Bird, the author of Eating Wild Japan: Tracking the Culture of Foraged Foods, with a Guide to Plants and Recipes (Stonebridge Press, 2021) has something more literal in mind. “This book is very much about humans as part of the natural world and our relationship to it,” says Bird. “Now, it is so much more fun to go somewhere because I am constantly looking for plants I can eat. It makes me feel much more connected to the places I go.” Bird’s first introduction to the world of sansai (mountain vegetables) was at the table of a neighbor over a shared pot of tea in Matsumoto, Nagano Prefecture. Subsequent visits featured an everchanging sansai menu “always perfectly tuned to the turning seasons,” she writes. As Bird talked and ate and the friendship bloomed, she realized that in rural Japan these wild foods were commonplace. It began a subtle shift in her thinking and way of seeing the world. “I started thinking that when people are eating and using a plant, they protect it over the centuries and have a reciprocal relationship with it,” she says, “It's a sort of nurturing one another through time. When that relationship falls apart, though, oftentimes the plant meets an unhappy fate as people lose their stake in it.” This sense of reciprocity captivated Bird along with the simple delicious foods she and her neighbor shared. She first learned of this give and take between humans and the environment through the the work of Robin Wall Kimmerer, a scientist and an enrolled member of the Citizen Potawami Nation. How, she wondered, had these plants shaped the culture and cuisine of Japan? What did they say about people’s relationship to the land? Searching for answers to these questions propelled Bird into the mountains and forests and even along Japan’s rocky shores to forage alongside those still practicing these skills and maintaining this ancient relationship. The result is a richly woven depiction of the social, culinary, economic and natural history of Japan that these plants represent.
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“When I worked as a journalist, I often had to define things in terms of economy or art or the environment,” she says, “but those divisions don’t reflect the world as it actually exists. All these things are completely integrated, and you can't understand any of them without understanding the others. So, I wasn’t interested in just botany. I was interested in the relationships between people and plants.” Like every relationship, though, Bird also found that sansai provided more than bucolic forest walks or delightful nibbles on Heian Period warabi (bracken fern) mochi. These plants allowed people to survive famines or fickle weather that dictate mountain life. To that end, a countless array of wild plants were managed, fostered and eaten for thousands of years throughout the seasons to ensure food security. “Having a culture that values—and is dependent on—wild foods drawn from its own ecosystem over the course of hundreds and thousands of years, where people actually have to sustain it, encourages them to value diversity. You have to have a variety of things through the seasons in different habitats.” While Bird acknowledges she only covers a small fraction of the plants available, she hopes the recipes in each chapter and the guide to 25 of the most easily found sansai inspire readers to eat, ponder, and see their environment in a new light— not as something separate but a world they are part of and have a deeper relationship with than even hiking, skiing or surfing. “Food is so much more than a hobby, something to entertain ourselves with,” Bird says. “By being aware of where we are and eating locally like this, we have a stake in protecting the land and maintaining its diversity. I hope my book will make people think not only about Japan, but also how we relate to land, use and interact with it.”
MARKET WATCH BY JOAN BAILEY
Organic Online Summer Shopping
F
ields are filling with summer bounty, and that means growers and producers around the country have plenty to share. Here are a few of our favorites to explore and see what delicious wonders are available. Eat well, stay well and stay ready for adventure! Oishimon Farm Oishimon Farm started a little over two years ago by Simon Ruhe. His farm offers a bounty of fresh organic produce. Oishimon, (a play on the words combining “delicious things” and Simon’s first name), is located in Saitama Prefecture where it produces year round and offers a mix of Japanese vegetables such as daikon or kabu (turnips), but they also offer a wide selection of non-traditional options too. These include kale, Swiss chard, beets, kohlrabi and dill among others. Customers can order single-shot boxes or subscribe for regular delivery. Visitors to the fields are also welcome, especially if they hanker on lending a hand! Web: oishimon.com Kasamatsu Farms Byron and Kaori Nagy left the hubbub of Tokyo behind when they founded Kasamatsu Far ms in 2012. Their organic farm in the mountains of Kanagawa Prefecture uses the principles of permaculture, an integrative approach grounded in the fundamental mechanisms and ideas from nature to sustainably grow an assortment of vegetables. They also raise free-range chickens. Customers will find a delightful selection of kale, colorful greens, beets, herbs and farm-fresh eggs. Vegetables boxes are also available for delivery. Web: kasamatsu-farms.com
Kasamatsu Farms Nagano, Naturally Nagano, Naturally is the combined effort of three neighboring farms offering a variety of fruits, vegetables and herbs throughout the growing season. From May you’ll find delectable rhubarb, tomatoes and eggplant soon followed by potatoes and peppers through to apples, pears and grapes. The selection, though, is not limited to that list and can include wheat, rice, and herbs as nature and time allow. Vegetable boxes are also available for delivery starting in June. Web: naganonaturally.com MomoG Farm Tomonori Nakayama is a trained auto mechanic-turned-farmer. In 2005, a friend casually offered up an abandoned field so Nakayama decided to try his hand at field repair. Using the principles of natural and organic farming, Nakayama keeps his fields free of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. He offers up sun-dried rice, two kinds of popcorn and a wide array of traditional and non-traditional vegetables a n d h e r b s f ro m s p r i n g t o l a t e f a l l . While Nakayama is a regular (and most enjoyable) presence at Tokyo’s Aoyama Marche, he happily ships his produce anywhere in Japan. Web: momogfarm.mystrikingly.com
Kasamatsu Farms
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s e v a W & e u Izu's l B Adventure Capital s p i h S k c Bla BY RIE MIYOSHI
IN SHIMODA BY RIE MIYOSHI
S
himoda is one of the most popular beach getaways from Tokyo with its white sandy beaches, surf spots and sea kayaking. But beneath its sleepy port town appearance, Shimoda is steeped in rich history dating back to the mid 1800s when Commodore Matthew Perry’s Black Ships arrived and opened Japan up to the West. It is here where the development of modern Japan began. EXPLORING HISTORICAL SHIMODA Shimoda’s main port and town is pleasant to stroll about and can be explored in a day. Start at Ryosenji Temple; this is where the historic Harris Treaty was signed, which ended centuries of self-imposed isolation and opened Japan up to international trade. “Commodore Perry is a famous household name, but it was actually U.S. diplomat Townsend Harris who stayed behind in Japan to learn about the local culture and work on relationships between Japan and the west,” says Daiei Matsui, chief priest at Ryosenji Temple. “ Before that, foreigners were prohibited from communicating with Japanese
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people. But with the treaty, Shimoda became the first town where cross-cultural communication between Japanese and foreigners took place. We want to keep Shimoda as a place of open communication.” Aside from serving as the chief priest, Matsui, who attended graduate school at the University of Hawaii, works on preserving and collecting historical artifacts related to the cultural exchange that happened in Shimoda long ago. He also provides English-guided tours around Ryosenji Temple and the adjacent Museum of the Black Ship. This museum displays artwork and artifacts related to Perry and his gunboats—nicknamed the “Black Ships”—for their color and steam engine smoke. Admission is ¥1,000. Stroll down the path along Perry Road, a charming riverside road connecting Ryosenji Temple and a monument marking where Perry first landed. This road is dotted with traditional buildings which are now cafés, restaurants and boutique shops. The nearby Shimoda History Museum is built in a traditional merchant building and houses more than 1,000 artifacts including early photographs, woodblock prints and Perry’s personal items. It also provides insight into what Japan looked like in the early 1800s. Experience riding Perry’s Black Ship for yourself on a 20-minute sightseeing cruise around Shimoda Harbor. The ship, Susquehanna, is designed as a replica Perry’s Black Ships. Admission is ¥1,000. Back on shore, visit Roadside Station Kaikoku Shimoda Minato for lunch, local fish, vegetables and souvenirs. The second floor is dedicated to the Harbor Museum, which shows the development of Shimoda. A 15-minute walk away is Gyokusenji Temple, a Buddhist temple that is more than 430 years old and served as the first American consulate in Japan. Townsend Harris lived here for two years and ten months. It was also where the Russo-Japan Treaty of Peace and Amity was signed. The adjacent Harris Memorial Hall houses Townsend Harris’ articles and other cultural artifacts. Admission fee is ¥500.
PAID PUBLICITY
SURFING AND WATER ACTIVITIES Shimoda has a selection of beaches catered to every type of beach-goer. While Shimoda’s town area is small, the beaches are spread out so it’s recommended to rent a car or cycle (note the coastal roads are hilly). Shirahama Ohama is the most photographed as its 700-meter white sandy beach makes it the largest beach in Shimoda. It has a famous torii gate on the left end of the beach and offers some stunning sunset views. Surfers flock here in summer to enjoy the big waves. The second largest beach, Kisami Ohama, offers beginner-friendly waves as the water isn’t as rough as Shirahama and it is a mostly sandy beach. It is surrounded by mountains and the cliffs jutting out into the sea attract snorkelers. T h e m i l d e r Ta t a d o h a m a a n d I r i t a h a m a a re l e s s c ro w d e d a n d good spots to learn surfing and bodyboarding. These beaches are famous for their clear and clean waters. Sotoura is located in the bay and has no waves, but is good for swimming, easy sea kayaking and snorkeling. Kujuppama is a half-sandy, half-rocky beach. It’s a great place for rock fishing and light coastal hiking. The emerald green waters of Nabeta are close to town. Be sure to wear proper footwear as it has a rocky shore. Drive further south to Toji and its scenic, rocky cliffs. You can view the famous Ryugu Sea Cave from above, where the weathered rocks have eroded the cave into a heart shape. You can also go inside the cave. Right next
door is the Toji Sand Skiing Field, a 70-meter dune where you can rent a sandboard. Beware of sand flying into your eyes and nose as it can be very hard to remove! On sunny days, you can view the Izushichi-to—Izu’s seven outer islands— from Tsumekizaki Lighthouse located at the tip of the Suzaki Peninsula. The view gets even better in January when the grassy hills around the lighthouse are dotted with three million daffodils in full bloom. The Suzaki Walking Trail, which connects Tsumekizaki and Suzaki Bus Stop, is a 2.8-kilometer easy coastal walk. GETTING THERE The best way to get to Minami Izu is the train to Izukyu-Shimoda Station on the JR Ito Line. You can also travel in style on the JR Odoriko Limited Express Train direct from Tokyo, Shinagawa, Kawasaki and Yokohama stations. There are public buses to the beaches available, but it’s recommended to drive or cycle. As Shimoda has long been a beach and hot spring resort, there are many types of accommodation here ranging from traditional ryokan and luxury inns to family-friendly B&Bs and beach cabins. For more information, visit exploreizu.com. v
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Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY
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Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY
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Travel &Adventure DIRECTORY
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