We’ve often said over the years that what makes Japan such an endlessly enjoyable adventure and cultural destination is that you can be skiing some of the world’s deepest powder one day, and the next, diving clear subtropical waters—and all while discovering a diverse natural and cultural history. We’ve endeavored to do just that in this issue, which rolls from winter through spring, just like Japan’s ski season.
We start up north exploring one of Hokkaido’s newest national parks, soaking in the pristine natural beauty and learning about the Ainu culture locals are trying to preserve. Hokkaido seems to be the epicenter for inbound international skiers, who flock to Niseko, Rusutsu, Kiroro and central Hokkaido resorts such as Furano and Asahidake in search of powder. We highlight these and many more from Japan’s big northern island all the way down to Gifu in our annual Japan Snow Guide.
With new friend Tsuchihama-san in Amami Oshima. His daughter runs Tsuchihama Shokudo in Shibuya if you'd like to try some traditional Amami Oshima cuisine in Tokyo.
Some resorts have been open since late November and some heavy early snow falls have already blanketed the mountains. La Niña-fueled snow forecasts are feeding the stoke and winter tourism is undoubtedly back in full force. We are seeing more ski enthusiasts from North America and Europe coming over to to take advantage of the weak yen as well.
It’s not uncommon to enjoy powder days all the way through March, although they get less frequent as the season stretches on and more dependent on temperatures staying low. Spring skiing generally means blue bird days, riding gondolas with friends to breathe in the views and the fresh air and enjoy less crowded slopes. It’s a great time for snowshoeing and touring, or even mixing in some cycling or chasing spring snow north while following Japan’s beautiful cherry blossom season.
After you get a lay of the land, go out and make fresh tracks to some of the smaller resorts around the region and discover your own secret stash. Our editor Bill Ross found some fresh finds in Fukushima, home to some excellent resorts that fly under the radar. Bill is a seasoned backcountry and snow safety guide as well as a founding member of a Myoko search and rescue organization. He’s seen his fair share of accidents and is often at the center of recovery efforts, especially if they involve international travelers. He shares some of his insight into the importance of knowing when to say no to that voice in your head telling you it will be ok to head out in dangerous conditions, or peer pressure from friends wanting to get in some backcountry turns no matter how many red flags are signaling you to stay on the groomers during your ski holiday.
While I’ve lived in Japan since the 90’s, there are still many places I’ve yet to explore. Amami Oshima has been right near the top of my bucket list, and I’m grateful I was able to finally cross it off the list. The largest of Kagoshima’s Amami Islands, in both size and population, did not disappoint.
While most travelers will make the journey by air from Osaka, Tokyo or nearby Kagoshima, we jumped on a smaller twin-prop flight from Okinawa after taking part in some unforgettable experiences in Itoman. This fishing town just south of Naha Airport has one of the richest fishing and sailing histories in Okinawa. The people here take great pride in their fleets, their emaculate fish market, and the culture of sabani sailing.
After an adventure-filled morning we were fortunate to have clear skies as the smaller plane provided unparalleled views of the countless islands on the way to Amami Oshima. It was easy to daydream about exploring each island as we flew by until the steep hills and cliffs of southern Amami Oshima came into view, giving way to a flat and narrow hour glasslike center before we circled around to the airport in the north. The bird’s eye view signaled the beginning of an amazing adventure through the island’s natural landscape from sea to summit while learning about a unique history that locals were proud to share and passionate about preserving.
Now more than ever preservation and sustainable tourism are the way forward for Japan. I hope you’ll enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed putting it together. Every season is a new adventure, get out there and discover yours.
—Gardner Robinson Editor-in-Chief
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Cover Photo: Courtesy of Aizu Ski Japan
Amami’s Unlikely Eco-Warrior
now finds himself at the center of a movement to protect Amami Oshima’s coastline and surfing culture. Patagonia’s short documentary film, “Totoganashi,” tells the story of former bad boy surfer Yusei Ikariyama and the community that has joined his efforts to protect the diverse ecosystem and natural riches of their island home. Outdoor Japan spoke to Yusei about his journey and the short film.
What was it like growing up on Amami Oshima?
I was born on the thinnest part of Amami Oshima in a village called Akaogi that sits right between the Pacific Ocean and the East China Sea. I grew up playing baseball in this small village and our team was strong, despite having few members.
The first year of middle school I tried bodyboarding, but then switched to surfing when my classmate’s uncle, a legendary local surfer, lent me his old beat-up surfboard. Soon I was going to the beach every day on my bike, surfing from morning to night and keeping that old board hidden in the woods near the beach. I was always hungry, so I would catch and eat some fish. In winter I’d dig up some potatoes from a nearby field and roast them, which sometimes got me in a little trouble.
My first surfing competition was the beginner class of a local event. By my third year of middle school I was doing really well locally so I decided to enter a competition outside Amami for the first time—the Western Japan Championships in Miyazaki.
I knew if I kept playing baseball I wouldn’t have time to surf, so I decided to quit the team. It was a big problem at the time—the principal called me in and people were pressuring me to keep playing because there were few players. But I was determined to make it in surfing. I quit and entered the competition, making it to the finals on my old worn-out board and finishing in fourth place.
Since I quit baseball, no one—my parents, my school— was paying much attention to me, so I started working parttime to make money to go to more competitions. I used to remove rust from piping in a sugar factory, scouring out the big cauldrons. You had to be tiny to get in them—and I was. It was pretty scary, but the money was good, so I did it.
I was going to surf contests all the time and didn’t have any interest in high school. My parents and teachers told me I had to go, but I was never actually there, I was always working or surfing.
Is this when you started getting in trouble?
Look, twenty-five years ago, all the older guys in surfing were bad boys. So from a young age I drank alcohol,
WITH BILL ROSS
smoked cigarettes, surfed and was scared of those older guys. There was bullying, too, that’s the kind of world it was. I got caught drinking and doing some other things. I didn’t go to school, I worked in construction, collected mozuku (seaweed), worked at a dirty izakaya and various other jobs.
I didn’t have much money, but I went to competitions with the money I made. My results improved and I won at the Western Japan Championships and the National Championships. I was seventeen and good enough to get invited to the World Championships in South Africa, but I didn’t have enough money to go. I did have enough to get to Hawaii for the first time, however, and when I saw the surfing level there I was shocked.
I took a break from surfing after that trip. I lived in Osaka and other places doing heavy scaffolding, which was dangerous work. I didn’t think I would be able to go back to surfing, but when my sponsor called I decided to give it another shot. I really focused on surfing again, and gradually I worked my way back.
Why did you return to Amami?
I lived in Miyazaki where I trained and competed, but I wanted to be with my girlfriend, so I came back to Amami to be with her and get serious about a surfing career. I was living my dream, but I knew I needed to face reality and get a proper job in surfing. So, a few years later, I opened up a surf shop in Amami.
How did you get involved in environmental activism?
After my shop opened, I also was involved in bringing the WSL World Championships in Amami for a couple years. Just as that was finishing up, there was a proposal to build a seawall at Tebiro Beach, my home surfing break.
The ocean at Tebiro is incredibly beautiful. I’ve been around the country to surfing competitions and everywhere there are seawalls and tetrapods, the water gets murky, it smells and the sand is pitch black. I never imagined a seawall would be built here—at my home point in Amami—but someone wanted to do just that. I knew I needed to take action to help stop it.
I had good relationships with locals and the town hall at that point, so when I heard about it I reached out to surfer friends around the country and started a petition to stop it. I
held discussions with the people in the village and collected about 3,000 signatures from all over the country, and together we were able to prevent the seawall construction. Was this a turning point for you?
When I was young, admittedly, I was a mess. Everyone hated surfers, they were seen as delinquents in my hometown. But I realized if we were all able come together and hold an international competition that helped revitalize the area, which we did, and if we could gain people’s trust and protect the coast from construction, then those accomplishments are more important than winning surfing competitions.
That’s why I decided to stop competing. Also, when you’re away from home, you don’t have the connections and the flow of information to do much for your village. I realized the most important thing is to leave something for our children and try and connect our memories to their future.
So I started to seek out companies that cared about the environment and would support efforts here in Amami. I knew Patagonia was serious about protecting the environment, so I sent a handwritten letter to them and asked if they’d work with me. I’ve now been a Patagonia ambassador for about ten years. I founded NEDI, a non-profit organization, to do things more formally. We just started, so it’s really just me, one other board member and a part-timer.
What is the danger to Amami Oshima today?
When you drive along the coast, you see scenery that has remained unchanged since ancient times—but there are more and more resort hotels being built. When construction happens, the local red soil inevitably ends up in the ocean, killing coral and fish. There’s issues with supplying water, and handling the runoff from toilets. I think that even the local people have not yet fully realized just how serious this is.
What would you like to see happen in Amami?
People compare us with Okinawa, and many of the resort developers are from there, but Okinawa and Amami are completely different. Amami has its own unique culture, with plants and creatures that only exist in here and a beautiful sea. If everyone on the island understands the need to grow in a sustainable way, then the people who open hotels will able to continue working into the future.
Tourism is good, but for me, it’s more about the lives of the local people and about education, locals and mainlanders learning about the ocean and the environment here. I’d like to see us as a model for long-term, sustainable development.
I like the idea of adventure tourism, because experiencing nature with your body is really important. If I experience and feel nature, I understand the importance of it. But at a resort you are just looking down at the beautiful scenery from a big, expensive hotel room, visitors don’t feel it as deeply, really understand the value of it.
How would you describe Amami surfing culture?
There are waves all year round in Amami, unlike the eastern part of the Pacific Ocean. Many surf spots are more for advanced surfers, so perhaps not as beginner-friendly. I personally like big waves, so surfing those big, beautiful waves is attractive. As far as the culture and the scary old days, all us surfers have been tangled up in a lot of things since then, so I can say that a lot of the “nasty old thorns” have been broken down, and the culture has become softer, more wellrounded.
Part of what makes surfing or diving, special is that we must be in tune with the natural flow of time, we are at the mercy of high and low tides. You can’t always do what you want. It’s bigger than us.
What should every first-time visitor do in Amami Oshima?
(Laughs) First you should drink kokuto (sugar cane) shochu, eat sashimi and delicious food made with local ingredients. If you can, experience a traditional festival and rokucho dancing. I always think first about food and nature, but the people are a big part what makes Amami special—everyone is so kind. Come have some food and drinks with locals, relax on the beach and let time pass by, listening to the sound of birds and the Amami waves….
Patagonia Films’ documentary short “Totoganashi” follows Yusei’s evolution from pro surfer to the founder of NEDI, a nonprofit named for the space where the ocean intertwines with the land. Inspired by the local saying, “One fight bleeds for three generations,” he realizes that to keep this shared coastline healthy, he must first unite his community.
Watch on YouTube at: youtu.be/ Ato7K30fVhA?si=qUBwJpSWh9Gz4LTB v
Pride and Preservation in AMAMI OSHIMA
BY GARDNER ROBINSON
The Amami Islands have long existed in the crosswinds. Locals have endured powerful typhoons and shifting geopolitical winds, yet retained a resiliency and determination to preserve both local traditions and their natural heritage.
Kagoshima’s subtropical Amami Islands lie just north of Okinawa and to the the south of the mainland, Yakushima and the Tokara Islands. Amami Oshima is the largest of the Amami Islands and part of the Amamigunto National Park, which was registered by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage site in 2021. This history of being a place in between—geographically, culturally and politically—is in part what makes Amami Oshima such an extraordinary, off-the-beaten track
destination with an extraordinary mix of nature, culture that will appease foodies, adventurers and even surfers alike.
You could spend weeks exploring the various Amami Islands, yet if you don’t have that much time to travel, a knowledgeable guide and a well planned tour will allow you to enjoy a nice blend of culture, adventure and take in the biodiversity of Amami Oshima in just a few days.
Day 1: Ancient Mangroves and Amami Sunsets
The recently opened Amami Oshima World Heritage Center is a great place to get a lay of the land when you arrive. It’s an easy drive from the airport and near one of the most popular natural attractions, Amami Oshima’s mangrove forest. The center features interactive displays highlighting the flora and fauna on the island—including a number of endemic species, such as the Amami rabbit, which is only found on Amami Oshima and neighboring Tokunoshima Island. The center highlights the concerted efforts to preserve the natural habitat and protect against invasive species.
The mangrove kayak center is just around the corner and it’s an easy paddle out as you ease your way into the natural beauty of the island. Having a knowledgeable guide makes the tour exceedingly more interesting and enjoyable. Our English-speaking guide was a certified Amami Oshima ecotour guide and his insights were invaluable throughout the trip.
Heading out at low tide gives you the opportunity to observe the mangrove root
systems and wander up through muddy passageways that would soon be filled with water. The mangroves are home to a number of species of crabs such as shiomaneki (fiddler crabs), who retreat back into their holes as we approach. The males are easy to spot with one large pincer and one small. Soldier crabs (minami kometsukigani ) and the larger mangrove crabs (nokogiri gazami ) can also be found here.
Another funny little creature is the minami tobihaze (barred mudskippers), a fish often found lounging atop the mud, or their heads poking out before disappearing into the murky water. They are able to survive outside the water for periods of time by storing water in their mouths and breathing the oxygen dissolved in their gills. The endangered Ryukyu ayu also hide out in the roots of the mangroves. This the only place in the world this subspecies of ayu exists since they no longer can be found in Okinawa.
We wandered a bit further, examining mangrove seeds and flowers as the water began rising at our feet. It was shocking how
quickly the the incoming tide came in, we were glad we pulled the boats way up on the mudflats as the water had nearly reached them when we returned.
We paddled downriver then entered into a mangrove tunnel until we ran out of headspace. A single mangrove seed was said to have floated here on the kuroshio (Black Current) creating Amami Oshima’s mangrove forest. We paddled back taking in the sounds of local birds, such as the Ryukyu robin and Amami jay, in the trees and the beauty of the surrounding hills.
The drive south passes through narrow canyons, steep river valleys and intermittently emerging to flat inlets from the sea. We’d climb up over hills and the drop down into villages along the coastline. It was a preview of the climb that awaited us the next day, but first we’d enjoy a stunning Amami Oshima sunset.
A group of local fisherman were enjoying some end of the day drinks and admiring the view as well, no doubt a daily ritual for this crew. We wandered back to the family-run guesthouse where a bountiful beachside bbq awaited. Glasses and stomachs were filled as we soaked up the afterglow on the horizon as it faded, eventually giving way to a starstudded night sky.
Day 2: Sea to Summit Cycling, Amami Rabbits and Folk Songs
We awoke to island sounds and found are guide was already up inspecting the bikes we’d soon ride up to the base of Mt. Yuwandake. It is the highest point on the Amami islands rising 694-meters above where we now stood at sea level. But first, we’d power up with breakfast and our first taste of an Amami Oshima delicacy called keihan, which literally translates to “chicken and rice.”
Shimanchu (Amami islanders) have a history of navigating tricky political waters. They’ve endured various regimes, including the Ryukyu Kingdom, which ruled Amami Oshima from the 1430s until the Satsuma shogunate invaded from Kyushu in 1609 and took control of the territory in 1611. The Satsuma controlled the invaluable shipping routes between Japan and China and, during their rule, islanders were forbidden to grow rice, forced to only grow sugarcane and pay taxes in sugar in return for necessary food and supplies. Rice was a valuable commodity and keihan was originally a dish made for visiting Satsuma dignitaries.
The basic recipe for keihan is chicken on a bed of rice covered in chicken broth, but it can vary from island to island and today includes a mixture of sliced meat, sliced omelet, ginger, green onions, shiitake mushrooms, pickled papaya and dried seaweed. The result is simple, colorful and tasty—and perfect fuel for a cycling adventure.
A fleet of Specialized e-bikes awaited so we climbed aboard, waved goodbye to our gracious hosts and headed off along the coastline until we reached Hiratomi Shrine. It was constructed in 1882 and dedicated to Sunao Kawachi. In 1605, while on his way to Ryukyu (modern-day Okinawa), a storm blew his boat to Fujian Province in China. At the time exporting sugar production technology from China was strictly prohibited. Sunao quietly observed the refining process during his two years there and then secretly smuggled back three sugarcane seedlings he hid in a double-bottomed garment box before returning to Japan. He would have been sentenced to death if caught, instead he ushered in Amami Oshima’s sugar cane industry.
Shortly after we turned away from the ocean and up a steep road into the subtropical forest. Ocean breezes soon gave way to cool, balmy air as we cycled beneath the canopy of monkey tree ferns and palms. Our guide suddenly stopped, pointing out droppings in the middle of the road that belonged to the Amami rabbit. Locals take great pride in the comeback story of their beloved rabbit that only lives in the forests of Amami and Tokunoshima islands. It has survived predators such as feral cats, dogs and the small Indian Mongoose, which was introduced to the island in 1979 in hopes of controlling the venomous snake population.
In 2005 the Invasive Alien Species Act was enacted and the mongooses were
designated an Invasive Alien Species. A government sanctioned “Amami Mongoose Busters” group placed and managed over 30,000 traps, 300 camera traps throughout Amami Oshima and trained Mongoose detection dogs. On Sept. 3, 2024 the Ministry of the Environment declared the eradication of the small Indian mongoose from Amami Oshima. Today the Amami rabbit is declared a special natural monument and hunting or trapping them is prohibited.
We continued cycling up the “cloud forest,” so called as it is often shrouded in mist and fog, until we finally reached the trailhead to Amami Oshima’s highest peak. It was just a 30-minute walk up through thick subtropical plants and trees on wellbuilt wooden stairs, as an orchestra of forest sounds filled the air. We emerged through the torii gate at the top, which led to the stone square with monuments where locals come to worship. We ascended the wood observatory and stood atop Mt. Yuwandake rewarded with clear views of the island with the East China Sea on one side and Pacific Ocean on the other.
Our guide handed out some delicious bento, which we gratefully enjoyed as we discussed some of the endemic plants we had seen along the way and learned about local rules that were in place to reduce environmental impact on Mt. Yuwandake, such as creating conservation zones that are off limits as well as semi-conservation zones where only small group tours and guided tours can be enjoyed.
After our cycling and hiking adventure we returned to Naze, the bustling port town that is home to roughly two-thirds of Amami Oshima’s population. We soaked tired legs in the public bath then strolled by lively restaurants and pubs before stopping in a local izakaya to enjoy a festive dinner and performance by a spry local folk singer and
her granddaughter who expertly played the Amami shamisen. The duo entertained and interacted with the audience who were a mix of locals and Japanese tourists who had traveled from various parts of the mainland.
Day 3: Oshima Tsumugi, Mud Dying and Black Sugar Shochu
After two days exploring the beauty of the natural landscape it was time to dive into Amami’s unique culture. Oshima Tsumugi may be considered the islands’s most treasured local craft. Locals take great pride in passing down this traditional method of dying silk thread and weaving it into intricate patterns. One garment can take months to finish.
Oshima Tsumugi Village is home to a traditional weaving factory, where visitors can learn about the production process. It's a relaxing stroll through the botanical garden while observing mud dying, fastening and tightening machines, silk thread dying and coloring. The painstaking process in which women weave the fabric together by using 350 kinds of threads is particularly impressive. They change and cut the thread like pixels, every single dot done correctly to match the pattern for a particular garment.
Thirty centimeters of weaving takes eight hours and one kimono , two months. The patience, meticulousness and pride of these masters is truly remarkable.
Inspired by the Oshima Tsumugi artists, we were ready to get our hands dirty and attempt some traditional mud dying techniques ourselves at a family-run dying factory. First you choose your design, then you tie thin fabric around your shirt to create the desired pattern. The shirt is then soaked in a purplish dye made from boiled teichi wood (the local name for a kind of Hawthorne tree). The longer you soak the fabric in the dye the darker, richer the color you'll create.
After several rounds of dying and rinsing, you soak the shirt in mud from the nearby field. It’s rich in iron and, when combined with the tannic acid from the dye, it creates a chemical reaction resulting in a dark earthy color and natural tie-dye design. It’s a fun activity for families and friends and everyone gets their own authentic Amami omiyage (souvenir) to take home.
If you love your spirits, you can’t leave Amami Oshima without trying kokuto shochu (black sugar shochu ). There are less than 30 distilleries brewing kokuto shochu in the Amami Islands and and one of the smallest is tucked into one of Naze’s side streets.
Tomita Shuzosho was founded in 1951, two years before the Allied occupation of Amami Oshima ended. It was also the end of centuries of being caught in the middle of geopolitical crosswinds. And in a rare case of political poetic justice, especially considering Amami Oshima’s dark history with sugar cane, the government created a special law granting Amami exclusive rights to produce black sugar shochu in Japan.
Tomita Shuzosho is one of the smallest distilleries in Amami, but it has the distinct characteristic of using earthenware pots half-buried in the ground for the primary fermentation process. These same earthenware pots have been used for more than 70 years and are harder to sterilize and reuse than stainless steel, but third generation brewmaster Masayuki Tomita says it gives their shochu a unique flavor that can't be reproduced.
As Tomita walked us through the distillery, explaining each process, he noted they only use Japonica rice from Kagoshima for the koji needed during the distilling process and added they still use their original strand of yeast from when his family started
the distillery. Another example of local traditions being passed down generations.
As I wandered down to the beach to take in one last Amami Oshima sunset. I climbed down from a rock outcrop and I waved at a man sitting nearby who returned the gesture. He wandered over pointing to a plant growing on the side of rocks. “Botanbouhuu,” he said, picking a leaf, eating and joking about living a year longer. He handed me some and I ate the wild bitter plant as it seemed to be working well for this energetic old local. I later learned botan bouhuu is the local term for a kind of wild parsley known as chomeiso that is indeed linked to longevity.
We strolled back, chatting about his island and his children. He proudly spoke of his daughter who runs an Amami restaurant in Tokyo and I told him I’d stop by next time I’m there for some keihan. After returning to the hotel I got a call. I had a visitor. When I got to the lobby there he was joking around with some staff. He greeted me and, as promised, handed over some newspaper clippings of his daughter’s restaurant.
Laying in bed, I looked at the map of the area. There, just north of the rock where I had eaten botan boufuu with my new friend, was a stretch of beach that bore his name. Dozing off, I couldn’t help but smile thinking about him sipping his kokuto shochu, proudly looking out over his coastline as the sun set over the Pacific. v
Amami Oshima Ikigai Tours
The term “ikigai ” means living with a sense of purpose, embracing community, harmony with nature and healthy lifestyles, which also leads to longevity. Having a great guide that can share local knowledge and help connect travelers to the destination is a great way to go. JTB Kagoshima has adventure travel tours curated to. To find out more and join a tour visit www. visit-kyushu.com/en/plan-your-trip/ adventure-travel/13-amami/
“On Amami Oshima, there is a kimono woven with the natural environment itself.” —Thida Moon
The family that runs the Thida Moon hotel believes Amami Oshima Tsumugi garments are works of art themselves and have spent decades dedicated to preserving this local centuries-old tradition. Perhaps it’s no surprise then that the Thida Moon hotel also feels like a timeless work of art dedicated to preserving the history of the island and weaving this heritage into the fabric of the beachside hotel.
There is a classic charm to Thida Moon. From the moment you arrive you can see the staff take great pride introducing you to to the hotel, which is more than just an accommodation. The Oshima Tsumugi Museum, on the second floor, is a gallery that exhibits Oshima Tsumugi fabrics and kimono woven by hotel staff as well as other works of art from local artists like Tanaka Isson and photographs of famous visitors such as the royal family.
The family-run hotel has an interesting history that is intertwined with the Oshima Tsumugi tradition. They were a big part of forming the Oshima Tsumugi Trade Association back around the turn of the century and then helped establish the Amami Oshima Weavers Cooperative in the 1970s. In 1998 they formed the Oshima Tsumugi Museum Co. in Osaka in order to expand their network and share these works of art nationwide. In 2005 they opened Hotel Thida Moon on a pristine stretch of beach in Amami Oshima. The hotel embodies their passion for the Amami Oshima Tsumugi tradition while
employing and supporting local artisans to help carry on the weaving tradition.
Those that admire the intricate Amami Oshima Tsumugi process will no doubt equally appreciate the attention to detail at Thida Moon. The “Moon Suite,” for example, has subtle details everywhere you look, from the moon-shaped mirrors and lights, the wall paper—even the design of the floor that resembles the surface of the moon. From the classic bath overlooking the stunning beach below you can gaze out at the moon glow over the Pacific Ocean.
Another room, facing the hillside, is dedicated to Tanaka Isson. Tanaka traveled to Amami Oshima at the age of 50 to start a new life. He worked at a silk factory to support his painting, but it wasn’t until after he died in 1977 that his art works were truly discovered and appreciated. Wandering the halls, you’ll notice even the doors of the elevators on each floor are adorned with different Amami Oshima Tsumugi patterns.
The meals at the hotel feature locally sourced ingredients and their presentation is photo-worthy. Guests can choose between western or Japanese breakfasts during their stay. Some of the chefs here also work as Amami Oshima Tsumugi craftsmen.
Thida Moon can also help arrange cultural activities such as wearing traditional kimono (and arrange photos to take home as
keepsakes), as well as visiting real craftsmen at work or taking part in traditional mud dyeing experiences on the island.
This locally owned and operated accommodation is the perfect place to wind down after exploring the island. Enjoy relaxing by the pool, strolling along the beach or wandering through tide pools while soaking up the history and heritage of Amami Oshima. v
THIDA MOON
Address: 1259-5 Kasaricho Oaza
Taira, Amami, Kagoshima 894-0505
Phone: 0997-63-0006
E-mail: front@thidamoon.com Web: thidamoon.com
A Legacy of Adventure at Sea in Itoman
BY GARDNER ROBINSON
Travelers come to Okinawa to unplug and refresh, to dip their toes in the sand or their fins in the water. Yet the most memorable holidays are those intermingled with locals, learning their stories and getting a glimpse inside their lives and the local culture. A day in Itoman offers an unforgettable opportunity to genuinely see and feel the past and present culture of this local fishing community.
Most visitors to Okinawa head north as soon as they land in Naha. Yet, if you swim against the tourist tide, and venture south of the airport you’ll find a town with a fascinating maritime history and a state-of-the-art fish market where you can get a much closer look at the fishing culture of Okinawa. Itoman is home to the Great Tug-of-War as well as the Itoman Hare, one of Okinawa’s biggest hari (dragon boat) races, which attracts more than 30,000 spectators as well participants competing in various races.
There are a number of significant historical attractions around Itoman—it was the final front of the Battle of Okinawa in
World War II and home to Gushikawa Castle. Fishing, however, is the heart and soul of this port town since the days of the Ryukyu Kingdom and is still a major industry today.
The fishermen of Itoman have a reputation that literally spans oceans. While they fish their waters throughout the Ryukyu archipelago, from the Amami Islands to the Yaeyama Islands, they are also known to stray from Kyushu and Shikoku all the way to Mie, Shizuoka and the Izu Islands. And long before diesel engines powered fishing fleets, these legendary fishermen set sail from their port on the southern tip of Okinawa Island off as far as the Indian Ocean, Papua New Guinea and Australia.
All this fishing activity culminates early each morning at the Imaiyu Fish Market in Itoman. If you want to genuinely appreciate what makes these fishermen tick, join an exclusive tour of this newly-renovated facility where you get incredible access to the market, nearly rubbing shoulders with fishermen and buyers before the auction starts. Having been to the incredibly crowded (and touristy) Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, this was by far a more intimate and enjoyable experience.
From the main floor of this incredibly clean space, you can wander the aisles of yellow fin, big eye and blue fin tuna as well
as marlin, wahoo and mahi mahi. The facility manager proudly explained the processes in which at no time do the fish touch the ground. The area is meticulously cleaned with three kinds of water depending on the process. We learned that a nerve cut is made near the nose of the tuna after they are caught to stop the fish from struggling (which sends acid into the meat and affects the taste). Each fish has a tag that shows where the fish is caught, the boat name and even the method with which it was caught. The catch is published the night before on the fish market website to attract bidders.
We stepped out of the way as the auction started on the far end of the facility where smaller inshore fish and shell fish were being bought and sold. Next, the main event as buyers examined massive tuna, before bidding for their stores and restaurants around Japan.
As sun streaks began to fill the sky we jumped into an electric shuttle for a drive by the picturesque port, and streets that used to be house-lined canals, to Hakugindo, a place of worship where locals pray for good fortune before heading out to sea. Here, a natural stalagmite is enshrined as a local deity. We too asked for favor before setting out on one of Itoman’s traditional sabani boats.
The name “sabani ” comes from “saba,” a local term for shark back when shark fins were a highly sought after commodity traded with China. The umininchu (men of the sea) of Itoman were solely responsible for shark
fishing, yet after the shark trade dried up during the Sino-Japanese war, the term for the boats remained. Today locals tend to call any small wooden boat sabani
While traditional sabani fishing ended in the 20th century, a sabani sailing renaissance began at the turn of this century. The Sabani Sail & Paddle Race between Zamami Island and Naha began in 2000 and the nostalgia of these traditional boats has created opportunities to join tours and experience the thrill of sailing them while gaining an appreciation into the traditional shipbuilding techniques.
When we arrived at the sabani shipyard a spry, 73-year-old craftsmen let us into the shop where he was currently building a boat. We were able to see firsthand the traditional tools, and techniques, including the dovetail key joints used instead of nails. He explained how the size of the boats is determined by the size of a single piece of timber and the only wood he uses is Obi cedar from Miyazaki Prefecture due to its flexibility, durability and buoyancy. Shark oil is sometimes used as a lacquer on the exterior of these boats that typically range in length from 6 to 8 meters.
After gearing up and a quick tutorial, we grabbed the traditional wooden oars and paddled out. The typical sabani boat has a single mast that is unfurled in the open sea. Cruising above the clear waters within the outer reef we could see a mixture of colorful coral and some bleached out areas due to the warm sea temperature. Typhoons can cause damage but they also are important for cooling the waters and carrying nutrients to the coral reefs, helping them stay healthy and regenerate.
Thankfully it was time raise the sail and let the wind do the work. These wooden boats won’t sink but they will tip and they are actually built so they can be fully submerged and resurfaced—a technique traditionally used when catching a large tuna, marlin or shark to more easily get it in the boat. We did a quick circumnavigation of a small island, waving to some fisherman on the shore before cruising up to a crescent beach where we’d have lunch at a local family-run umibudou farm.
Umi-budou (literally sea grapes) are a local delicacy mainly grown in Okinawa’s temperate waters. We harvested our own umi-budou from the indoor farm and then relaxed out on the deck for lunch while enjoying the view of the beach. This friendly family have created a bit of an oasis here, with a campground and bbq space. Their pride in the umi-budou they grow is clear and after
rinsing our “catch” in water, we followed their instructions laying it over steaming rice with a raw egg and their secret sauce mixed in. We were then served a dessert you won’t find anywhere else in the world— umi-budou ice cream (which is surprisingly good!).
Adventure travel means you are sometimes at the mercy of nature, and sailing definitely qualifies. We got a taste of how quickly the weather can turn on the way back as blue skies turned gray and calm waters were no longer calm. It was a safe, but exciting sail back as we got to experience the stability (or lack) of sabani boats as our captain expertly tacked and jibbed our way back to port.
When you join a sabani tour, wear clothes that you don’t mind getting wet, because there is a good chance you will. If you are prone to seasickness it’s always a good idea to take medicine before your tour, although it wasn’t bad even in stormy seas. Sabani sailing feels like the perfect adventure travel tour. It’s eco-conscious and a human and nature powered activity that is a quintessential Okinawan experience.
Relax and unwind on your Okinawa holiday, but be sure to take a day and look outside the resort so you don’t miss out on authentic local experiences like these in Itoman.
To find out more about booking an exclusive fishmarket and sabani sailing tour in Itoman, contact Okinawa JTB by e-mail at_oki@okw.jtb.jp. v
HOKKAIDO’S Garden of the Gods
BY EDWARD J. TAYLOR
Japan’s newest national park, offers not only a look at one of Hokkaido’s less traveled regions, but also the Ainu culture and people, who have been in on the secret for centuries.
The long-term expat in Japan will often be asked their favorite place in Japan, and the answer is inevitably hard to come by. Hokkaido always appears at the tip of my tongue, but as it is less “Japanese” than the rest of the archipelago, it is never the answer I give. Yet, as I find myself gravitating there year after year to wander its peaks or to sink myself in its powder or hot baths, perhaps it is the answer I should give without hesitation.
Hokkaido’s foreignness stems partly from my seeing it as Japan’s Alaska, detached both geographically and culturally. Like America’s 49th state, it was historically linked with Russia, who never truly ceased their trading activities, despite Japan’s supposed 250-year sakkoku period of
isolation. The shogunate established no more than a toehold on the island, and had no real control over activities beyond.
The rest of Hokkaido was the home of the Ainu, bolstered by their trade with Russia, and their familiarity with the land, whose natural abundance enabled them to live simple, yet sustainable lives. As is the sad case in most industrialized countries, the Ainu have been relegated to a few small pockets, known as kotan, where the old ways are encouraged, though in a far-scaled down version.
Many visitors to Hokkaido are familiar with Upopoy Kotan, due to its proximity to Sapporo, accompanied by a mild commercialization the proximity brings. I tend to
prefer Akan Kotan on the far eastern part of the island, larger and more vibrant, yet with a vibe more like a small onsen resort. So it was a delight to visit Nibutani Kotan, with its small village feel, and its welcoming community.
I was in Hokkaido to explore Japan’s newest—and biggest—national park, the syllable-rich Hidakasanmyaku-Erimo-Tokachi National Park, designated just three weeks before. Nibutani lies amongst the Hidaka range’s western face, the forests and peaks above not only a source of sustenance, but the lair of the Kamuy, the gods whose worship give shape to the Ainu culture itself.
The day began with a ceremony traditionally undertaken before entering the forest. Our guide dipped an ornately-carved Ikupasuy prayer stick into a cup of sake, then three times flicked some drops onto a tree, an offering to the ancestors. We moved then through the forest beneath a mixed growth forest dominated by Katsura trees, which the Ainu see as sitting, their roots as legs underground. A powerful stream cut curves through the dense growth, making it easy to see why the Ainu wore leggings on their hunting forays.
The village itself was a short distance away, a collection of small wooden dwellings spread across a central grassy area. We paid a quick visit to Toru Kaizawa, hard at work at carving an incredibly detailed sheath for a hunting knife. His great grandfather had been one of the Meiji period’s best craftsmen, and Kaizawa himself is beginning to gain some renown overseas.
We were next given time to explore the cultural museum, divided into three zones, to the people, the land and the gods. In the former, the exhibits were organized from birth to death, each of the 1,121 items donated by Kayano Shigeru, the first Ainu politician in the Japanese Diet, and a leading figure in promoting its ethnic culture. A child of this village himself, the toys on display were all related to hunting, teaching them early essential skills.
The patterns on the traditional attire were an array of curls that looked almost Celtic. Originally made of bark fibers, cotton was introduced due to later trade. Today, the older bark clothing is still occasionally made, so as to honor tradition. It can require up to two years and seven kilometers of thread to make the outfit for a single male. The carvings were most remarkable, incredibly detailed shapes and patterns found on near every tool, utensils, and weapon. The heavy emphasis on sweeping curls led me to wonder whether they were inspired by blustery nighttime snow storms.
We regrouped at the largest dwelling at the center of the village, open and airy, with thatch from ceiling to floor. The eastern window was for the god to enter, as it faces upstream and Mt. Poroshiri beyond. Two windows to the south were for water and light to enter. A central fire pit was adorned with an iron pot, as well as drying racks. It not only heated the room but the thatch above, creating a form of insulation. The embers were cold on this midsummer’s day, as we sat around the pit to enjoy a lunch of traditional Ainu delicacies, namely salmon, vegetables collected from the local hills, and ohaw, a salmon soup, finishing with a millet and rice dish known as sipuskepmesi. A few of us took the opportunity to pleasantly doze under the temps of a perfect summer’s day, as an Ainu elder wove quietly in the corner.
At the village’s opposite end was the Kayano Shigeru Nibutani Ainu Museum, and we passed the afternoon in the cultural center next door, carving patterns onto small folding tables that we’d take with us for lunch in the mountains later in the week. Our visit to the village concluded with a brief stop to try our hand at playing the tonkori, a type of five stringed, unfretted lute. Played cradled against one shoulder like holding a baby, its rhythmic tone is deceptively soothing. But, in the hands of famous performer Oki, it is something else altogether, as can be seen in any performance of his Oki Dub Ainu Band.
In the morning, I watched the sunrise over the Hidaka range’s peaks, whose
centerpiece, Mt. Poroshiri, is listed on the 1964 bucket list known as the Hyakumeizan, or Japan’s 100 Eminent Mountains. We didn’t have the three days needed to check it off our lists, but we would climb Mt. Apoi, further down the range, which rises directly from the Pacific, enabling an attractive seato-summit traverse.
The night before the climb, we prepared the ingredients for the day’s picnic, namely rice. spice, and sliced sculpin rockfish, which must surely be one of the world’s ugliest fish. Our labors packed away in vacuum sealed bags, we tucked into an immense feast of sashimi sliced from the abundantly rich cold waters a few blocks away. There was the familiar salmon, Alaskan pollock, and squid, plus a regional type of monkfish meal known as tomoae. The night, while lively, but didn’t last long. We had a mountain to climb in the morning.
The sea off our base in Samani Town was rich in kelp, an industry dating from the time of the Ainu, who had a small community here, endeavoring to maintain their language and culture. Their familiarity with the waters was apparent from local legends, namely the towering rocks offshore, identified as a retreating chief and his wife and child, frozen in time in order to elude capture.
The hike began just uphill at the Apoi Geopark Center. Our guide Tanaka-san led us past the obligatory bear warning sign, to an array of small concrete pools now filled
with a variety of plants local to the mountain. The botanist overseeing the place had long ago replaced the herpetologist who once collected mamushi (pit vipers) here in order to extract their venom for medicine, or to pickle their bodies to make local firewater.
The trail shaded by red pine was rife with deer tracks, and the mangled wooden signage raked with higuma claws. Though attacks were rare, the higuma is one of the world’s largest species of grizzly, and the damage they’d done to the signs was impressive. To the Ainu, they were the greatest of Kamuy, and must have been the most terrifying of gods. I’d hate to run into one camouflaged by the rhododendron climbing high in order to find sunlight. Round rocks here and there indicated the presence of an ancient river.
Hokkaido trails tend to be incredibly long, distances dictated by lengthy traverses through dense forest and creeping pine, which lead to the foot of the mountain itself. But what made this trail unique was that we were literally traipsing over the earth’s mantle, driven upward by a violent collision of tectonic plates, with this very peak a byproduct. A literal journey to the center of the Earth.
These rocks formed the spine of a steep climb, which dog-legged into a long ridgeline that, aside from the odd rock scramble, gradually led to the peak. The name Apoi comes from the Ainu language,
meaning “place of fire,” after the bonfires the Ainu had lit on the summit as a means of asking the gods to bring them deer, whose populations had diminished. We had our own fires to attend to, heating the meals that we’d prepared the night before. The views were surprisingly clear, a long entire stretch of shoreline beneath the bluest of skies, the trail below alive with families with small children, or old timers collecting summits.
Partway down, I passed a trail heading deeper into this brand new national park. So tempting to take it, to cross the whole of Hokkaido itself over the long line of volcanoes that the Ainu had called Kamuy Mintara or Garden of the Gods. But that will require yet another journey, to dive deeper into Hokkaido’s seeming endless riches, and into why the Ainu had called it home.
To learn more about Samani Town and the Hidaka Region visit samani.jp. To find a guide or join a tour to the Hidaka Region check out hokkaido-treasure.com v
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FindinginFreshFukushima
BY BILL ROSS
“Please don’t put up English signs!” the young American couple pleaded with me. We were enjoying some drinks after a backcountry trip together in Myoko. It was fifteen years ago and they had just been to Niseko and Hakuba and said they preferred the more Japanese experience here.
Having been to Niseko and Hakuba several times since then, I know what they meant. The snow can be great, and a few niches of Japan remain, but foreign investment is everywhere, with lots of generic glass and steel buildings and condos that could be at any international ski resort anywhere in the world.
Developers are now touting plans to invest US$12 billion (or was that 20 billion?) into Myoko with quotes in newspapers claiming it will be “the next Aspen” (or was it Whistler?). The numbers and the story changes so we’ll have to wait and see what actually materializes, but the influx of foreign influence is evident. Whether Myoko can retain its “Japanese-ness” is the big question.
Without question, however, is that many return visitors—like our backcountry couple—and some fresh faces, are looking for ski towns sans the hords of international tourists, where you can still struggle with Japanese menus.
The Aizu-Wakamatsu area of Fukushima is, thankfully, one of these hidden gems. “We don’t speak English well, but we’ll give you a real Japanese experience,” says one tourist brochure I found. “We loved how we were away from the typical popular ski destinations of Japan with too many Australians, and we were pretty much alone among the Japanese,” added a testimonial from a recent Australian visitor.
Surprisingly, Aizu Wakamatsu is easier to get to than the previously mentioned resorts. It is just ninety minutes by Shinkansen from Tokyo, then another 30 minutes to one hour by bus or train, depending on the resort. It’s not like the area is underdeveloped, either. There are several major resorts in the region plus many smaller one. Locals will be there on weekends but weekdays are still pretty quiet. While the snow isn’t as heavy—in weight and quantity—as resorts on the Japan Sea side, it is light and there’s plenty of it.
Perhaps one reason people have looked past this area is the aftermath of the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. Fukushima as a whole got linked with the disaster at the nuclear plant and the radiation leaks along the coastline. I went to the Aizu Wakamatsu area with Outdoor Japan for a piece back in 2014 where the locals reminded me that this was the area people evacuated to because it was safe then, and it certainly is now.
Outside of skiing, there is a rich history with images of samurai all over the region. Aizu was the center of the last great battle to determine the direction of Japan at the end of the feudal period. Almost no one has heard of the Boshin War, yet they have heard of The Last Samurai, which was based on that conflict between the Tokugawa shogunate (including the samurai order) and the ascending imperial powers around the Meiji emperor. The samurai of Aizu were the last to keep fighting, literally down to the last man, and the area is full of historic sites, starting with the imposing, 400-year-old Tsurugajo Castle.
It is scenic, with several of the ski areas located around Mt. Bandai, a beautiful mountain that looks rounded and soft in one direction, rugged and jagged on the other where an 1888 steam explosion ripped the peak apart. Below are the blue waters of Lake Inawashiro, the fourthlargest lake in Japan, a beautiful sight often dotted with white specks, migrating Siberian swans who winter here.
And the skiing is exceptional. “We didn’t know what to expect, because we hadn’t heard about Aizu, to be honest, but it was great,” says pro skier and videographer Mattias Evangelista. Along with his brother, pro skier Micah, the Evangelistas were invited to visit the area prior to the pandemic, and given fairly free reign to record what they found.
“Right away we met some great local people who took us out into the backcountry at Nekoma, just a short drive from where we were staying near the lake,” Mattias says. “The terrain was really fun. The forests are thick! There were more trees than we found on the Japan Sea side, but we still found really fun lines and spaces where we could do jumps, shoot good shots with the locals cruising around—it was really good.”
The brothers also enjoyed the local culture. “What really struck me was the local love for the sport,” Mattias says. “Nekoma has a relatively small terrain park—maybe it’s big for Japan—but it was packed all day every day and the stoke was high! It was a blast riding the lifts with the locals and feeling their energy.”
They discovered not only the samurai spirit here, taking in a samurai training session for local children, but also experienced the resilience of the people after the destruction of the earthquake and tsunami.
“The local pride was truly remarkable,” Mattias says. “The weight of their experience with the tsunami is still heavy, but they have a love for their homeland unlike anything I’ve seen. After the disasters the locals could have left to live elsewhere in the country, but they chose to stay and rebuild which is a true testament to their human spirit.”
One more reason to experience a unique and still-not-overrun part of snowy Japan!
AIZU RESORTS
In addition to the three main Aizu resorts listed here, there are 15 other smaller resorts in the region to explore that are even more likely to provide an uncrowded, Japanese experience.
Hoshino Resort Nekoma Mountain
This is a big area, combining the former Alts Bandai and Nekoma ski areas, with 33 courses and thirteen lifts spread out over the north and south sides of Mt. Nekomagatake. The area provides very different views and snow conditions, with light powder on the north-facing slopes. Web: nekoma.co.jp
Grandeco Snow Resort
Located in the Urabandai section of Aizu, and known for deep powder snow, the base of Grandeco is above 1,000 meters, helping ensure the quality of the snow, while the lifts are all hooded to keep skiers warm on the way up. Ungroomed runs are available.
Web: resort.en-hotel.com/grandeco/ snow/ja/
Inawashiro Ski Resort
As the name implies, this ski area has great views of Lake Inawashiro, as well as Mt. Bandai. Lots of wide open spaces make this a good choice for beginners and intermediates, while there are challenging runs up high that often provide powder conditions.
Web: inawashiro-ski.com
Getting to Aizu
For most people, the train is the smart way to travel in snow country. Take the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Koriyama Station (about 90 minutes). Then transfer to the Banetsu West Line to Inawashiro Station (about 45 minutes). Most hotels and resorts provide shuttle buses from the station (be sure to check ahead with your lodgings). If you are experienced driving in snow country, renting a car can be convenient, but make sure you have snow tires and 4WD. If not, you are asking for trouble.
Ski and snowboarding gear can be a pain to handle on trains, so another good option is a direct bus from Tokyo Station to several destinations around the Inawashiro area. You can also takyubin (the convenient courier service) from the airport or from hotels in Japan to your ski lodging. v
Shocked Straight by Slides
BY BILL ROSS
Ihave to admit, I’m not entirely crazy about the, “He died doing what he loved,” narrative. If I was out in my kayak and a whale decided to breach on top of me, well, that would be a good way to go. No screw up on my part, it’s bound to happen sometime, so might as well go out in style. And suddenly.
I had friend who was a bit older, but in good shape and medically cleared, so he went out spring ski climbing. He simply keeled over and died due to an undiagnosed problem. It was sad, but, again, it wasn’t because of a lack of care or preparation on his part. It was tough for the people with him, and we all grieved, but there was the feeling that the inevitable happened and it was just as well it happened out there in the mountains he loved.
Where I’m not comfortable with the dying in the line of passion thing is in times where it is avoidable, like what I fear is coming this winter season.
As one of the old guys in our local search and rescue organization, if an accident occurs, I’m less likely to be out on the hill and more likely to be coordinating with police and our staff, or following up to collect rescue fees afterwards.
Among last season’s accidents we had two incidents involving broken femurs, pretty
scary, painful and possibly life-threatening situations. The post-accident response is often similar to the cheerful Canadian we rescued. He gratefully thanked us for the help and received support from his friends to raise funds for his Search and Rescue (SAR) fees, which are needed for us to be ready to go.
After two seasons of low snow, it’s predicted we’ll get a lot of snow this season, due to La Niña. The significant rainfall over summer, the position of praying mantis egg masses on plants and the early attempts of stink bugs to find winter hibernation inside houses all point to a deep winter. (All except the first are actual indications the locals examine to determine whether big drifts are coming). Hotels and lodges will be full of powder-frothing guests and people will, unfortunately, likely die in avalanches.
Killer avalanches can move as fast as a Shinkansen and involve thousands of tons of snow transforming from big slabs into a fastflowing, almost liquid torrent with a snowladen air blast leading the way. These can destroy forests. You don’t have a chance. The sad thing is, dying in an avalanche is almost entirely avoidable.
In the four fatalities we’ve had here in Myoko in the last decade or so, the signs were all there that it was a day not to go out in the backcountry. High winds and heavy snow loaded up the slopes all night—two of
the biggest red flags, and something we go over in basic training sessions.
In two separate cases involving people I knew, large slab avalanches were set off, in which a whole layer of snow breaks away and hurtles down the mountain at shocking speeds. Another man was swept away by loose snow into a valley, where he ended up more than two meters under the surface. He didn’t have any avalanche gear on him, so he was discovered by a line of searchers working with probes along the most probable spot. The last was a guy who decided to go down an extremely steep slope covered with avalanche barriers in the middle of a huge
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snowstorm, leaving his avalanche beacon in his car. He wasn’t found until spring.
What they all needed to do was stop and say, “not today.” That can be the hardest thing to do. There’s usually peer pressure to keep going, the “don’t wimp out” syndrome. They could have simply chosen a better place to go, perhaps a low-angle run through trees following a gentle ridgeline. Or they could have just stayed on the slopes and honed their technique a bit.
I’m spoiled, I know, because I can always say, “tomorrow is fine.” There’s no pressure to go out and conquer the mountain today. Too many of the people heading into the backcountry can’t simply leave the work stresses behind and enjoy what nature brings them. Too much testosterone can be an issue; a lot more men die in avalanches than women.
There are even people who, after seeing ski videos, want to try and duplicate the hero scenes where a pro outruns a slide. Former pro skier K.C. Deane was skiing a narrow spine when he set off a slide, and was able to escape. I wrote him to say I was glad he was OK. He replied, “I wish they didn’t put that in the final cut. Somebody will try and do the same thing.”
The thing with avalanches is that the aftershocks reverberate long after the snow has settled. There’s the reality of digging the victim out—you’ve got just minutes to get the person out, if trauma hasn’t already taken them, so you can’t wait for help. There’s lingering guilt for survivors. There are police interrogations that go for hours, identification of bodies, dealing with embassies and airlines. Often you have to deal with another group that actually set off the avalanche that killed someone else. I know, because I’ve experienced and helped others through all these scenarios.
A few years ago, there was an accident in which some friends, a photographer and two
pro skiers, went out and skied a gentle line on a ridgeline in the trees twice. While preparing to leave the area in what looked like a safe spot, they were caught in an avalanche set off by another group who chose a much riskier line. One friend was buried two meters down for nearly twenty minutes, defying the statistics and emerging physically fine. The other skier and a man from another group were thrown some fifty meters, buried and killed. A year afterwards, my friend, who had been buried, announced he had reached the first birthday of his new life— the experience had been so shocking, such a major change for him that he literally felt his old life ended with the accident.
It takes a toll and, I admit, I’m tired. But I hope to help others avoid getting caught in almost entirely avoidable situations. Get local information; know what the weather has done over the past few weeks before ever going up on the hill to dig a test pit. Leave the pressure to achieve at the office and come enjoy the laidback, Japanese mountain life tradition. A little study goes a long way—as long as it gets applied when powder fever sets in. v
Bill Ross is a Myoko-based backcountry guide, Canadian certified avalanche forecaster and BCA advisory guide. He teaches snow safety at Dancing Snow (dancingsnow.com) in Myoko. He is also a founding member of Myoko’s search and rescue organization and has lived in Myoko for nearly 30 years.
KNOWLEDGE IS ‘POWDER’ THINK DEEP
Tazawako Ski Resort, Akita Prefecture
HOKKAIDO
The general rule with skiing is, the farther north you go, the better the snow. Well, you can’t go any farther north in Japan than Hokkaido, and the area rightfully creates the biggest buzz for people in search of deep powder. The reason for this is simple: Hokkaido consistently gets great snow conditions, and Niseko in particular is recognized as a world-class ski resort, rivaling the long-established ski areas in Europe and North America. However, anyone thinking Hokkaido is a one-trick pony will be pleasantly surprised to find there are some great ski areas all over Japan’s north island.
NISEKO
Niseko Grand Hirafu
Niseko Annupuri
Niseko Village
Rusutsu
Tomamu
Furano
Kamui Ski Links
Sahoro
Kiroro Snow World
Niseko gets a lot of attention, and rightfully so. It is the most international ski resort in Japan and consistently gets some of the heaviest snowfall in the world. The mountain, Mt. Annupuri (which, in Ainu, means White Mountain), is home to three ski resorts: Niseko Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village (formerly Niseko Higashiyama) and Niseko Annupuri.
Collectively they form Niseko United and share a common lift pass. The Hanazono area of Niseko Grand Hirafu is independently managed, and one of the more progressive areas on the mountain, featuring three terrain parks and the only FIS Half Pipe in Japan, which is well maintained throughout the season, and a bag jump, where you can safely practice your freestyle tricks.
Niseko Village (which is a 10-minute drive from the main Hirafu Village area) also has nice facilities and a lot of activities. Niseko Annupuri keeps the lowest profile of the three, but has some nice areas that can be less crowded. Other nearby resorts are Niseko Moiwa and Niseko Weiss. The lifts are no longer running at Weiss, but cat tours service the area. While a few other resorts may challenge Niseko’s claim to the best powder in Japan, there is no doubt Niseko has the best, and widest, selection of restaurants and accommodations in Japan.
The infrastructure is well organized, with efficient bus service to/from Sapporo and New Chitose Airport and a shuttle bus that takes visitors to the various resorts. On one of those rare midseason clear days, the view of Mt. Yotei from the slopes is the quintessential image of skiing in Japan.
NISEKO ANNUPURI
NISEKO VILLAGE
- 19:30) (0136) 44-2211 niseko-village.com
NISEKO GRAND HIRAFU
(0136) 22-0109 grand-hirafu.jp
Dec. 14 - Apr. 6 8:30 - 16:30 (16:30 - 19:00)
Includes Hanazono * Includes Grand Hirafu
NISEKO HANAZONO RESORT
hanazononiseko.com
- 16:30 (16:30 - 19:00)
(0136) 46-3111 rusutsu.com
Dec. 21 - Mar. 30 9:00 - 20:00 (16:00-20:00)
Rusutsu is more than a good day trip from Niseko. It’s an excellent all-round mountain with 37 courses over three mountains: Mt. Isola, East Mountain and West Mountain. Powder lovers will love the big valleys full of deep tree runs funneling down to the modern, efficient lifts, and everyone will enjoy the views of the back side of Mt. Yotei and the quieter alternative to bustling Niseko. The skiin/ski-out Rusutsu Resort Hotel is the most convenient place to stay with hot springs, day care, fireworks during Christmas and New Year and a variety of great activities.
KIRORO SNOW WORLD
(0135) 34-7111 kiroro.co.jp
Nov. 30 - May 6 9:00 - 19:00 (16:30 - 19:30)
SAPPORO KOKUSAI
Kiroro is a relatively new (opened in 1992) ski resort just 30 kilometers west of Sapporo. The resort has great facilities, some amazing views of the Japan Sea and the natural surroundings and gets a lot of snow from mid-December until early May. Kiroro makes up for its lack of challenging terrain by offering a few powder pockets and plenty of gentle slopes for beginners and children. The "Powder Zone" opens middle of January to middle of March. Kiroro also has one of the best base lodges in Japan, complete with a hot spring to soak away the day’s bumps and bruises and an adjacent hotel with good restaurants.
0115) 98-4511 sapporo-kokusai.jp
Nov. 22 - May 12 9:00 - 17:00
If you ski or snowboard, Sapporo is hard to beat. Residents can get a few quick runs just 15 minutes from downtown at Sapporo Bankei. However, many families make the one-hour drive out to “Kokusai,” which offers more choices for beginners and intermediate skiers and has a nice park. Although this is a day-trip resort, it does attract a spattering of international guests who find it hard to stay in the city when snow is falling. Most will be pleasantly surprised as this coastal resort gets its fair share of powder days and offers some varied, albeit fairly short, runs and a small, but decent park. Night skiing is not available.
SAPPORO TEINE
(0116) 82-6000 sapporo-teine.com/snow/lang/en
Dec. 20 - May 6 9:00 - 21:00 (16:00 - 21:00)
If someone mentions the Winter Olympics in Japan, you’ll undoubtedly think of the 1998 Nagano Olympics. Yet 26 years earlier, Sapporo hosted its own Winter Games at a resort just 30 minutes from downtown Sapporo. Yet, what might be most surprising is this resort, Sapporo Teine, offers some steep and deep powder fun for intermediate and advanced riders. The offpiste terrain is up in the Teine Highland area, accessible without having to duck ropes or elude the patrol. The Teine Olympia is a kinder, gentler area, which has a lively park scene. Night skiing available until 9 p.m.
ACCESS By Bus: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station via shuttle bus By Car: 90 minutes from New Chitose Airport
By Car: About 30 minutes by car from Otaru or 80 minutes by car from downtown Sapporo
ACCESS By Car: One hour from Sapporo city center, depending on traffic
ACCESS By Car: 30 minutes from Sapporo city center, depending on traffic
(0156) 64-4121 sahoro.co.jp
Dec. 2 - Apr. 6 9:00 - 18:00 (15:00 -18:00)
Sahoro is a well-run resort that caters to families. There are 17 nicely groomed courses, some “semi-backcountry” and a terrain park. Like Tomamu, it’s a place where you can have fun whether you are a skier or not, with lots of activities. Two all-inclusive hotels service Sahoro Resort: The Sahoro Resort Hotel, an attractive luxury hotel, and the Club Med Sahoro. English ski lessons are available and lots of organized fun for the whole family. Sahoro is not for the budget traveler, but makes for a great family getaway.
By Train: 94 minutes from New Chitose Airport to Shintoku Station By Car: 200 min. from Sapporo to Tomamu I.C.
HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU
(0167) 58-1111 snowtomamu.jp
Dec. 1 - Apr. 1 9:00 - 18:00 (16:00-18:00)
Tomamu has excellent facilities and a beautiful location. Many courses are suited for beginners, yet a challenging double black diamond course and cat-ski tours will challenge advanced riders. Tomamu is a destination in itself with a plethora of ways to entertain the whole family. There’s a good selection of restaurants, an indoor wave pool, Kids Park, Ice Village and a variety of spa and relaxation options. The resort has also expanded the Family Adventure area and connected the two mountains.
By Train: 90 minutes from New Chitose Airport to Tomamu Station By Car: 100 minutes from New Chitose Airport
FURANO RESORT
(0167) 22-1111 princehotels.co.jp/newfurano
Nov. 30 - May 6 8:30 - 19:30 (16:30 -19:30)
Bus or car
Central Hokkaido's Furano Resort is known for blue skies, yet manages nearly nine meters of snow each year. There are two sides to the mountain, serviced by a 101-person cable car (Japan’s fastest). The nearby Tokachi Range is a popular backcountry playground. The ski-in/ ski-out New Furano Prince Hotel has a new hot springs facility. Join the Host Program and get a tour from a local or a bus tour from January to March to Lake Shikarebetsu’s ice village and bathe in ice bathhouses or enjoy a drink at the ice bar built on the frozen lake.
is recommended: 60 minutes from Asahikawa
LINKS
(0166) 72-2311 kamui-skilinks.com
Mid of Dec. - Late Mar. 9:00 - 17:00
Kamui Ski Links is a resort run “by skiers, for skiers.” Those who enjoy powder and tree skiing will understand why this little resort 20 kilometers outside of Asahikawa has so many admirers. Management has no restrictions on tree skiing and has even left several courses in which to play ungroomed. On top of that, the snow quality is excellent. You may find yourself in some short lines for the lifts on weekends, but on weekdays it is nothing but fresh lines down the hill. Be sure to warm up by the fireplace at Trattoria & Pizzeria 751 at the top of the gondola.
Bus or car access is recommended: About 40 minutes from downtown
KAMUI SKI
ACCESS
ACCESS
ACCESS
access
Airport to Furano Station
ACCESS
Asahikawa on Route 12
Shintoku, Hokkaido
Shimukappu, Hokkaido
Furano, Hokkaido
Asahikawa, Hokkaido
TOHOKU
The Tohoku Region represents about 35 percent of the area of Japan’s main island, Honshu. Running north-south through the center of Tohoku are the Ou Mountains, ranging between 1,500-2,000 meters. When the famous poet, Matsuo Basho, wrote The Narrow Road to the Deep North (Oku no Hosomichi), these were the mountains toward which he walked. Today they are full of some of Japan’s least crowded ski resorts. Tohoku may seem far away, but it’s only two-to-four hours by bullet train or you can jump on a domestic flight. Regardless, it’s never too far to go to find good snow.
HAKKODA ROPEWAY
(017) 738-0343 hakkoda-ropeway.jp Mid-Nov. - end of Feb. 9:00 - 15:20
The eight peaks of Hakkoda attract Japan's most devoted powder lovers. It is basically backcountry with a 100-person gondola that takes 10 minutes to the top with four trips every hour. Once you get off, you can choose from "Direct" or "Forest" trails. You won't get many blue bird days here, and visibility can be difficult during snowstorms, which happen often. So if you are a Hakkoda newbie and want to explore the terrain, it's best to grab a local guide. Hakkoda Sansou, across the parking lot from the gondola, is the closest accommodation. Up the road, Sukayu Onsen is a mixed hot spring with a 300-year history and a 1,000-person bath.
APPI is a giant resort (45.1 kilometers of trails) with a long season (thanks to the many north-facing slopes) plus some great facilities (thanks to bubble era spending). Unlike many resorts in Japan that have relatively short runs, the average course length at APPI is 2,100m; the longest 5,500m. It’s possible to do Appi as a long day-trip from Tokyo but, with two ski-in/ski-out hotels and an annex hotel, which collectively sleep 4,100 guests, why not stay and soak away sore muscles at one of the two natural hot springs after a day on the mountain. Families will appreciate the Kids Park.
HACHIMANTAI RESORT
(0195) 78-4111 www.hachimantai.co.jp Dec. 21 - Mar. 23
It’s easy to get confused because there are two Iwate Hachimantai resorts and another in Akita. Iwate’s Hachimantai Resort, is a great family ski destination. Hachimantai Resort covers two main areas, Panorama ski area and the Shimokura ski area. Both are well sheltered from the weather. There are high-speed lifts and mainly beginner or intermediate courses.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: 50 minutes from Morioka Station to APPI. By Car: 15 minutes from Matsuo-Hachimantai
When it snows in Tazawako, and it usually does, there is deep powder and a good variety of courses to enjoy. On the rare clear day, enjoy a stunning view of Lake Tazawa below. Tazawako is a popular ski resort for Tohoku locals, but the lines are still relatively short. The lifts run directly from the Tazawako Onsen hotel area. The selection of runs should keep everyone happy; on one side is a beginner and intermediate area, and on the other a more challenging advanced course. Powder lovers won’t want to miss the Komagatake Panoramic Cat Tour.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Tazawako Station (3 hours), then 30 minutes by bus to the ski resort
Hachimantai, Iwate
Hakkoda, Aomori
TAZAWAKO SKI RESORT
APPI KOGEN
I.C. or Ashiro I.C.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Morioka Station (2 hours , 11 minutes), then about 90 minutes by bus to Hachimantai Resort
ACCESS By Bus: 80 minutes from Aomori Station By Car: 35 min. from Aomori I.C. and Ishiguri I.C.
Tazawako, Akita Hachimantai, Iwate
Hakkoda Ropeway
Appi Kogen
Hachimantai Resort
Tazawako
Miyagi Eboshi
Yamagata Zao
Alts Bandai
Grandeco
(0224) 34-4001 eboshi.co.jp
Dec. 12 - Mar. 30 9:00 - 22:00 (16:00 - 22:00)
Miyagi's Eboshi Resort is on the other side of the mountain from the more famous Yamagata Zao Onsen Ski Resort. It's much quieter, the lift lines are shorter on this side of the track, and the views are fantastic. Although it's a decent sized resort with well laid-out courses and a variety of ways to descend the mountain, it is more geared for beginners or advanced riders, as there is not a lot of challenging terrain. Powder hounds will be salivating on some of the areas outside the lines.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shoroishi-Zao Station (1 hour, 54 minutes) then about an hour to the ski resort
ZAO ONSEN SKI RESORT
(023) 694-9617 zao-ski.or.jp
Dec. 14 - May 6 8:30 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)
Ski resorts each have their own personalities; it is one of the joys of exploring new resort areas. Zao Onsen has a big bubbling personality. The town is literally bubbling with hot springs, and the ski resort offers a unique ski experience—skiing among the famous Zao Snow Monsters (juhyo). The resort is big with four gondolas, 32 lifts and a 10K downhill course. Skiers will enjoy the layout more than snowboarders (too much traversing), but the highlight, undoubtedly, is riding among these huge creatures formed of ice and wind. The peak season is February, and the juhyo illumination is spectacular.
Park
ACCESS By Train and Bus: 2 1/2 hours by bullet train from Tokyo to Yamagata Station, then 40 minutes by bus to Zao Onsen
Zao-machi, Miyagi
HOSHINO RESORTS NEKOMA MOUNTAIN SNOW PARK & RESORT
(0242) 74-5000 nekoma.co.jp
Nov. 30 - May 6 8:30-16:00 (17:30-21:00)
With 30K of rideable terrain, nearly 33 courses and progressive free-style parks, it is no surprise this resort is a favorite of many of the top park riders in Japan. The resort is the largest in southern Tohoku and was the home to the Asia Open. They have a Cat Ski area on the west side of the resort where visitors can enjoy some deep turns. Slide into Yama Cafe for a drink or relax in the hotel's great hot springs. The ALTS side is south facing so it’s bright and features some nice terrain for free riding, but powder lovers will want to head to north-facing Nekoma. The two sides are connected by a new lift.
ACCESS By Train: 90 minutes from Tokyo Station to Koriyama Station By Car: 75 minutes from Fukushima International Airport.
is Japan's Last Frontier—the true path less traveled. Hiking and specialized tours in North Japan.
GRANDECO SNOW RESORT
(0241) 32-2530 grandeco.com
Nov. 23 - Apr. 20 17:00
Grandeco Snow Resort is a medium-sized resort with first-rate facilities, which include a gondola and express chairlifts and artificial snow-making capabilities to guarantee early and late-season riding. There is also a luxury hotel and SIA certified Snow Academy. Although the resort is best suited for beginners and intermediate riders, there are tree runs for advanced riders and a well maintained park. Gran Deco is one of the highest resorts in the area, which means good quality snow. The nearby Hotel Gran Deco has westernstyle rooms, an indoor and outdoor swimming pool (open in winter), Jacuzzis, saunas, hot spring baths, restaurants and bars.
ACCESS By Train: 45 minutes from Inawashiro Station via local bus. By Car: 35 minutes from Inawashiro Bandai Kogen I.C.
Yamagata-shi, Yamagata
Bandai, Fukushima
Aizu Ura Bandai, Fukushima
NAGANO
Nozawa Madarao
Nagano is the traditional center of the Japan snow scene, and at the heart of it is the Japan Alps. The prefecture is home to some of the finest, steepest and biggest resorts in Japan, and boasts arguably the most breathtaking scenery. Within Nagano, the sheer volume of ski areas is due to the jagged spine of rugged natural beauty known as the Japan Alps slashing through the prefecture. This area is as much a Mecca for photographers as it is for skiers, with its many onsen, snow-swept valleys and bristling peaks. Backcountry fun here is limited only to your preparedness and daring. Hakuba, Shiga Kogen, Nozawa and the Iiyama areas are just the tip of the proverbial iceberg.
HAKUBA GORYU
(0261) 75-2101 hakubaescal.com/winter-en
Mid-Dec. - May 6 8:00 -16:50 (18:00 - 21:30)
Part of Hakuba Valley Resorts, Hakuba Goryu is one of the most scenic and pleasant places to ski. Soak up the view as the Japan Alps soar behind you, and then head down to Escal Plaza, one of the best base lodges in Japan. There is a ski/snowboard rental shop, a nice selection of restaurants and even a bath open until 9 p.m. daily. The Toomi Piste is open until 9:30 p.m. If you’re on a tight budget, there is a “resting room” where you can wait for the lifts to open. It’s a common space that fits up to 100 people (no reservations required). Serious skiers can challenge themselves on the Champions expert run. Hakuba Goryu also shares a common lift pass with Hakuba 47.
HAKUBA HAPPO-ONE
(0261) 72-3066 happo-one.jp
Mid-Dec. - May 6 8:00 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)
Happo is a huge resort that is heaven for skiers who enjoy well-groomed, long courses. There are many runs, good challenging terrain and a nice park and the Hakuba Banks Park opens on Feb. 1. Happo hosted the downhill races during the 1998 Olympics and, if you want to test your meddle, head to the top of the men’s downhill course. While advanced riders will love Happo, beginners may get frustrated with the many narrow paths leading down the mountain. If you need a break, there are plenty of restaurants to stop for a bite. Note the resort’s popularity means it can get crowded, especially on long weekends.
Hakuba Happo Hakuba 47
Hakuba CorHakuba Goryu
Norikura
(0261)
Hakuba 47 is a relatively new resort (opened in 1990), and they’ve been trying to take some fresh, progressive steps to making a better resort experience. There are loads of activities and events, an extensive snow park with lots of jibs, kickers and things to launch off, and a great half pipe. The resort also has some excellent intermediate courses, a challenging mogul course and a shared ticket with Goryu, so no shortage of courses from which to choose. If you were wondering about the name, the goal of the resort is to offer a great mountain experience “4” seasons and “7” days a week.
Yakebitaiyama
Shiga Kogen Area
Hoppobundaira Higashitateyama
If the crowds at Happo are too much for you, head over to nearby Iwatake. The base of the resort looks up at Hakuba’s highest peaks for a spectacular view while you enjoy the slopes. The resort itself is surprisingly big, making it a great place to go to get away from the crowds and explore the 26 courses. Lift lines are relatively short by Hakuba standards, and you can often find some pockets of powder here after it has been tracked out at other resorts nearby.
Ha kuba, Nagano
Hakuba, Nagano
HAKUBA IWATAKE SNOW FIELD
HAKUBA 47
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then an Alpico Bus to Hakuba (60 minutes)
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then an Alpico Bus to Hakuba (60 minutes)
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then an Alpico Bus to Hakuba (60 minutes)
ACCESS By Train and Shuttle: Shinkansen to Nagano Station and the direct bus to Hakuba. A shuttle service runs between Goryu and Hakuba 47
Hakuba, Nagano
Hakuba, Nagano
HAKUBA CORTINA SKI RESORT
(0261) 82-2236 www.hgp.co.jp/cortina/ski
Dec. 14 - Mar. 30 8:30-17:00
If you are looking for a place to spend a quiet, romantic ski weekend in the Hakuba area, head over to Cortina. The massive Green Plaza Hotel with northern European architecture is impressive. If your ski partner is just starting out, the course right outside the door of the hotel is a gentle slope and great for beginners. Although most of the runs are in the beginner to intermediate range, there are some steep courses, and they have adopted a progressive approach to tree skiing and power areas in which guests are responsible for themselves if they get into trouble. The Hakuba Cortina Resort also offers a convenient shuttle from Nagano Station (one-way, 1,000 yen).
ACCESS By Train: From Shinjuku to Minami Otari: 4 hours (By Azusa) By Car: 90 minutes from Nagano I.C. to hotel
TSUGAIKE MOUNTAIN RESORT
(0261) 83-2515 tsugaike.gr.jp
Dec. 14 - May 6 8:00 - 16:30
While Tsugaike is actually located in Otari Village, it is just up the road from Hakuba and often considered a Hakuba Resort. It is one of the more underrated resorts considering it has the biggest mountain in the area, some huge bowls, the longest run (at 5,000 meters), a big gondola, terrain park and some interesting runs. There are good places to hike to get fresh turns and a fullfeatured snow park that caters to all levels. The Children’s Square is great for kids just starting out on the slopes. Most of Tsugaike’s runs are in the intermediate range, but there are a few expert areas as well.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then a shuttle to Hakuba Cortina (80 minutes)
MT. NORIKURA
(0263) 93-2645 brnorikura.jp
Dec. 21 - Mar. 30 8:45 - 16:30
The base of Mt. Norikura (not to be confused with the smaller Hakuba Norikura) starts at 1,500 meters, meaning the snow quality is excellent, and you’ll spend more time riding than in lift lines. It is a relatively small, local resort, yet the dedicated locals have created a progressive and challenging terrain park and good facilities for beginners to learn to ride. There is no ATM, so bring cash or your credit card and make sure to pack chains or have a 4WD, since Norikura is nestled deep in the Northern Alps. After a day on the mountain, don’t miss the great rotenburo at Yukemurikan.
ACCESS By Train: Super Azusa Express train from Shinjuku to Matsumoto (2 hours, 37 minutes. Transfer at Matsumoto, then on to Shin Shimashima (30 minutes)
Hakuba, Nagano
Otari, Nagano
Norikura Kogen Onsen, Nagano
If you include all 19 interlinked ski resorts, Shiga Kogen in northern Nagano is Japan’s largest ski resort area. Surrounded by 2,000-meter mountains, Shiga has good elevation and is a great place to get in some early or late season runs, as the season stretches from late November to early May. Shiga Kogen hosted the women’s downhill, slalom, the super giant slalom and both snowboarding events for the 1998 Nagano Olympic Winter Games.
With more than 80 accommodations scattered around the area, there is no shortage of places to stay, although it has retained an “old school” feel with most restaurants found inside hotels; some serving Shiga Kogen’s excellent microbrew. There are many onsen in the area to soak in after a day on the mountain, yet the most famous in the area is off-limits to humans. Jigokudani Yaen Koen is a sanctuary for resident snow monkeys that lounge in their own hot springs, while visitors snap away with their cameras.
Shiga Kogen has limited ATM access (ATM is available at the Shiga Kogen Post Office in the Hasuike area), so bring some cash.
Starting this year, a common ski lift pass will be available for Shiga Kogen Resort’s 13 ski areas which are part of the “Shiga Kogen Resort Chuo Area.” These resorts include Sun Valley, Maruike, Hasuike, Giant, Happo Bunahira, Higashi Tateyama,
Teragoya, Takamahara Mammoth, Nishi Tateyama, Tanne-no-mori Okojo, Ichinose Family, Ichinose Diamond and Ichinose Yama-no-kami. If you plan to try all the ski areas, you’ll need to give yourself at least a few days to explore the various terrain.
Okushiga Kogen is known as “Skiers Paradise” as it remains a skiers-only resort, (along with Kumanoyu), while Yakebitaiyama is a Prince Resort with excellent facilities. The Hoppo Bunadaira area is great for beginners and families with small children while Higashidateyama is best suited for advanced skiers, although there is a gentle woodland course as well. The resort hosted the men’s and women’s giant slalom in the 1998 Olympic Games, and it boasts an extremely challenging downhill course. The restaurant at the summit of Mt. Higashidate boasts incredible panoramic views and is the starting point to get to other ski areas such as Terakoya.
ACCESS By Train: 90 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo
ACCESS By Train: 110 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo
ACCESS By Train: 110 minutes from Tokyo Stn. to Nagano Stn. By Car: 300 minutes from Tokyo
ACCESS By Train and Bus: 110 minutes from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station, then bus (70 minutes) to Shiga Kogen resorts
NOZAWA
(0269) 85-3166 nozawaski.com
Nov. 30 - May 6 8:30 - 17:00 (16:30 - 20:00)
If you’re looking for the quintessential Japanese ski experience, Nozawa Onsen is hard to beat. This traditional hot spring village sits at the base of a great mountain (Mt. Kenashi, 1,650m). The resort is one of the oldest ski grounds in Japan, getting consistent snowfall. There are two gondolas and a large selection of courses to choose from. The town also features 30 hot springs scattered around the village (including 13 free baths in town) and the Dosojin Matsuri (Fire Festival) held on Jan. 15, which is a spectacle to behold.
ACCESS By Train: Tokyo Station to Nagano Station by Shinkansen (109 minutes), then Iiyama Line to Togari-Nozawa Onsen St. (60 minutes) and taxi or shuttle bus to Nozawa Onsen. By Car: 75 minutes from Nagano Station
MADARAO MOUNTAIN RESORT
(0269) 64-3214 madarao.jp
Dec. 14 - Mar. 30 16:30
Located in northeastern Nagano just above Iiyama Town, Madarao Kogen features lifts and courses across a bowl-shaped terrain on Mt. Madarao (1,382 meters). The resort has a nice variety of courses, groomers, a tree run area, free ride park, wave courses and kids park. They claim 60 percent of the course is ungroomed so, if you like riding powder, there should be plenty in which to play. There is also a joint ticket available for Tangram Ski Circus, a small, pretty resort. Backcountry tours can be arranged through the resort.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Iiyama Station (130 minutes) then take a bus to Madarao Kogen Hotel (30 minutes)
TANGRAM MADARAO
(026) 258-3511 tangram.jp/eng
Dec. 21 - Mar. 30 8: 30 - 16: 30 (17:30 - 20:30)
Tangram Ski Circus sounds like a great place for kids—and it is. The ski-in/out Hotel Tangram sits right at the bottom of this family-friendly resort. Facilities include hot spring baths and a heated indoor swimming pool. The resort features 14 courses on the northwest side of Mt. Madarao, with well-groomed runs, great for mom and dad to get in some leg burners with the kids. The trees look tempting, but beware the ski patrol is vigilant here. However the resort is connected to Madarao Kogen, giving you 30 courses to explore if you get bored with the runs right outside your door.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano City (1 hour, 28 minutes) then by bus to Tangram Madarao
TOGAKUSHI SKI FIELD
(026) 254-2106 togakusi.com
Togakushi is an interesting, medium-sized resort. The name “Togakushi” means “hidden door,” it derived from the Japanese myth and the resort is owned by Nagano City, yet it is still relatively unknown to people outside the area. The best way to describe Togakushi is pleasant. The conditions always seem to be pretty good, course is variegated and there are often great powder days. Best of all, it never seems to get as busy as the more popular Nagano resorts, and it has retained a very local feel. Togakushi Village is in itself an interesting place. It is famous for soba, and there are some beautiful shrines, temples and onsen nearby to finish off a great day on the mountain.
1 hour to Togakushi by bus
Iiyama, Nagano
Madarao, Nagano
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 30 minutes), then less than
Nozawa Onsen, Nagano
Gelaende Map
NIIGATA
One day in 1986, the good people of Joetsu, a coastal city in Niigata, were deluged by 232 centimeters of snow—in one day. That’s roughly enough to bury a one-story building. Although this sort of thing doesn’t happen every day, Niigata gets some of the heaviest snowfalls in Japan. The town of Yuzawa was where Yasunari Kawabata penned his awardwinning novel “Snow Country” (Yukiguni). It is also Niigata’s most popular of winter sports areas, due to the easy access from Tokyo (77 minutes) and the variety of ski resorts a snowball’s throw from the station. Just over the border from Nagano Prefecture, in the southeastern part of Niigata, the Myoko Kogen area is one of Japan’s best-kept secrets. This scenic, mountainous area stretches all the way to the Sea of Japan coast and features some great resorts in its own right.
Mt. Naeba calls itself "The St. Moritz of the East" and is a popular choice for Kanto trendsetters wishing to get away for a convenient ski weekend. The crescent-shaped Prince Hotel cuts an imposing figure at the base of this classic ski-in/ski-out resort and features all the trappings you would expect from a Prince-managed resort hotel. Off the mountain, there are children’s services, shops and other amenities and, on the mountain, a terrain park, kids park, family snow park and more. Naeba is connected to Kagura, Tashiro, and Mitsumata ski areas via the "Dragondola," which travels 5.5 kilometers in just 20 minutes, so there are 55 trails explore if you have the time.
These three connecting ski areas form one big resort. If you count Naeba, the total rideable area is 303 hectares. From Naeba, you’ll be lifted above Lake Tashiro to wider and less crowded slopes and better snow quality, but the area closes at 4 p.m. and the lift line back to Naeba can be long, so beware. A better option is to access the Tashiro Ropeway on Route 17. You can then traverse across Tashiro in about 40 minutes to Kagura, a popular backcountry zone and a great option for early and late season skiing. The Mitsumata area has a small boarder's park, a few jumps and two good slopes for learning. Accessible by the Mitsumata Ropeway on Route 17.
then take the local bus to Kagura Ski Resort (30 minutes)
ACCESS By Train: Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes)
ACCESS
Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes) then take the local bus to Naeba Ski Resort (50 minutes)
Kagura, Mitsumata
Naeba
Kagura Tashiro Mitsumata
GALA Yuzawa
Iwappara
Seki Onsen
Charmant Hiuchi
Joetsu Kokusai
NASPA Ski Garden
Akakura
Myoko Suginohara
GALA YUZAWA SNOW RESORT
(0257) 85-6543 gala.co.jp
Dec. 13 - May 6 8:00 - 16:30
If you want a quick, convenient day-trip from Tokyo, you can’t get any easier than GALA Yuzawa. The ski resort has its very own bullet train and train station that doubles as the ski center. The amazing efficiency means you won’t be alone on the hill. However, get up to the mountain, get in a few runs with friends and be back in time to buy your favorite designer goods in Harajuku. The resort is geared toward recreation and families with kids, but it does connect to other resorts, so there are more options for serious skiers. And if you just want to have fun in the snow for a day with friends, you can’t beat the convenience.
ACCESS By Train: 71 minutes from Tokyo Station to GALA Yuzawa Station By Car: 5 minutes from Yuzawa I.C. (Kanetsu Expressway)
Iwappara is one of the more popular resorts in the Yuzawa area. It is extremely convenient from the station (10 minutes) by shuttle bus, so it is quite possible to do a day trip from Tokyo. The main course is very wide open, making it a great place for beginners to practice their turns without fear of being run over by a speedy skier (or vice versa). The views from the top are nice, and the village area around the ski area has a nice selection of restaurants.
NASPA SKI GARDEN
(025) 780-6888 naspa.co.jp/ski/
Dec. 20 - Mar. 31 8:30 - 17:00
from
NASPA is a relatively new ski resort (opened in 1992) whose claim to fame is being one of the last skiers-only resorts left in Japan. The ski hill is behind the deluxe New Otani Hotel. The resort definitely caters toward families who ski and want to stay in luxury. Guests can enjoy the excellent hot springs, Jacuzzis, a swimming pool, fitness center and a selection of restaurants. Its location near the station makes for a quick, convenient ski weekend from Tokyo, if you want to get in a few turns (on skis) with the
ACCESS By Train and Free Shuttle Bus: Joetsu Shinkansen to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes) then free shuttle bus to NASPA Ski Garden (5 minutes)
JOETSU KOKUSAI SKI RESORT
(025) 782-1028 jkokusai.co.jp
Dec. 7 - Apr. 6 8:00 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)
One of the largest ski resorts in Japan, Joetsu Kokusai boasts four zones catering to different levels that satisfied a wide range of skiers and snowboarders. There is a kids park right outside the hotel, rentals and ski school programs for beginners. Enjoy soaking in an onsen and dining on local cuisine after a day on the slopes. There are also free events held throughout the season.
ACCESS By Train: Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes) then train to Joetsu Kokusai (12 minutes)
Yuzawa, Niigata
ACCESS By Train and Shuttle Bus: 77 minutes
Tokyo Station to Echigo Yuzawa Station then shuttle bus from Echigo Yuzawa Station (10 minutes)
Yuzawa, Niigata
Yuzawa, Niigata
Minamiuonuma, Niigata
MORE MYOKO SNOW FUN
Dancing Snow is all about enjoying the fun of Myoko’s beautiful winter world. From snowshoe treks for everyone, to day tours to local peaks and special tours, we have something for everyone who wants a bit more from this snowy mountain. Groups are small for safety and fun. We provide BCA® snow safety lessons, backcountry gear sales and rentals.
MYOKO SUGINOHARA
(0255) 86-6211 princehotels.co.jp/ski/myoko
Dec. 21 - Mar. 23 8:30 16:30
AKAKURA ONSEN
Myoko Kogen is simply one of the naturally prettiest ski areas in Japan. Suginohara is part of Prince Hotels (although there is no hotel here), and the facilities are well maintained. The runs above the gondola are where advanced skiers and powder hounds will have the most fun. The resort has 17 trails, a terrain park, kids sledding area (ask about kids skiing free) and six onhill restaurants. Suginohara also boasts one of Japan’s longest top-to-bottom, an 8.5-kilometer thigh burner that will test anyone’s meddle if left for the last run of the day. The stunning view of Lake Nojiri below from the gondola makes it worth the trip alone.
Akakura Ski Resort is located at the bottom of Mt. Myoko and is the largest resort in the Myoko Heights area. The resort has a nice variety of courses as well as powder stashes and some challenging courses on the old “Champions” side of the mountain. The town’s hot springs date back to 1814, and there is no better way to finish off a day on the mountain. The Akakura Resort & Spa sits majestically on the slopes. It’s a great place to stay if you want ski in/ski out luxury. The area averages about 13 meters of snow annually, so there is plenty of fluffy stuff, and it has a pleasant natural beauty. Akakura has a nice variety of courses, but the most challenging runs are on the old “Champions” side of the mountain.
then 10 minutes by bus
SEKI ONSEN
Let us know what you’d like to do! We have all kinds of ways to have fun in this great outdoor area.
www.dancingsnow.com info@dancingsnow.com
(0255) 82-2316 Late Dec. - Early May 9:00 - 17:00 yokotourism.com/ski-resorts/seki-onsen-ski-resort/
Seki is the highest ski area in the Myoko Kogen area and, even though there are just two lifts, there is access to many powder runs. This is a locals mountain, and they check the weather reports and know when the storms will hit, sometimes dropping one or two meters of new snow overnight. It pays to get up early if you want first tracks. Don’t expect groomers; this is natural terrain and free riding at its finest: tree runs, natural pipes and some good hits.
Charmant is a locally owned and operated ski resort most of your friends do not know about but may wish they did. The resort is literally right on the Japan Sea (you can see it from the top lifts) and gets some of the heaviest snow dumps around. It is also a healthy drive from Tokyo (four hours), but is worth the trip if you enjoy short lift lines and uncrowded slopes. There are lots of ungroomed areas and advanced terrain including a 1,000-meter powder course. The proximity to the sea means there is some excellent seafood nearby as well, and you can ski straight through Golden Week.
ACCESS Car access is recommended: Train and bus service is inconvenient. From Tokyo it takes 4 hours by car, depending on traffic and weather
By Train: 120 minutes from Tokyo Station to Myoko Kogen Station By Car: 180 minutes from Tokyo
ACCESS By Train: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hr., 45 min.), then take the JR Shinetsu Honsen Line to Myoko Kogen Station,
Akakura Onsen, Niigata
ACCESS By Train: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hr., 45 min.), then take the JR Shinetsu Honsen Line to Sekiyama Station, then 20 min. by taxi
Seki Onsen, Niigata
Itoigawa, Niigata
GIFU
As far as resorts in central Honshu go, Gifu gets much less attention than Nagano, Niigata and Gunma. Nonetheless there are a number of quality resorts in the region that primarily service the Nagoya and Kansai regions. Less than a couple hours from the main Gifu ski resorts is the Edo-style town of Takayama, known as “Little Kyoto.” Takayama’s master carpenters built some beautiful shrines and temples here at the base of the Japan Alps. Also in the region, along the border of Gifu and Toyama prefectures are the World Heritage villages of Shirakawa-go and Gokoyama, known for the thatched roof houses built in gassho-zukuri (praying hands) style. These A-frame farmhouses are constructed to withstand the heavy snowfall that blankets the region each year. If you are looking for good skiing and mixing in some great cultural experiences, Gifu is a great winter destination.
TAKASU SNOW PARK
(0575) 72-7000 www.takasu.gr.jp
Dec. 10 - Late Apr. 8:00 - 16:30
Takasu is well known to park riders. The resort has a large free ride park that includes kickers, rails, boxes and one of the biggest super pipes in Japan. There is also a 600-meter professional boarder cross course and a mogul course. The resort is the training grounds for many of Japan’s rising stars and has hosted a number of competitions including the FIS Snowboard World Cup. Aside from the amazing pipe and park, winter sports enthusiasts of all levels can enjoy the open-faced free ride terrain including a 4,800-meter trail, one of longest in western Japan, and several other 4,000-meter trails. There are even some backcountry tours through Dainichi Valley.
ACCESS By Bus: A bus leaves Nagoya at 8 a.m. stopping at both Takasu and Dynaland. The trip takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes
DYNALAND
(0575) 72-6636 www.dynaland.co.jp
Dec. 7 - Early Apr. 8:00 - 16:30
Dynaland is the largest of the Takasu ski resorts. There are 19 runs; the longest a 3,200-meter thigh burner. There is a shared ticket to neighboring Takasu Snow Park and two places on the mountain that connect the resorts. If you want to get out on the slopes first thing in the morning, the Hotel Villa Mon-Saint is right in front of the resort, and there are 6 a.m. openings for first tracks on selected dates. The resort has featured a resident DJ who will take music requests, and you can do some good for Mother Nature while having a lunch break since the Dynaland Eco Project collects proceeds from resort restaurants to support a Gifu tree planting project. Night skiing runs until 11 p.m.
ACCESS By Bus: A bus leaves Nagoya at 8 a.m. stopping at both Takasu and Dynaland. The trip takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes
Takasu, Gifu
Takasu, Gifu
Takasu Snow Park Dynaland Park Park
GUNMA
MINAKAMI HOUDAIGI
(0278) 75-2557 hodaigi.jp
Dec. 14 - Mar. 31 8:30 - 16:30
Minakami Houdaigi ski resort is the largest in the Minakami area. The resort, due to the higher elevation, also gets good quality snow. Although there are many beginner and intermediate runs, there are a few advanced courses as well, including a killer 40-degree slope and a 2,600-meter cruiser.
Okutone Snow Park
Tenjindaira Tanigawadake
Norn Minakami
Manza Onsen
While neighboring Niigata gets most of the attention, Gunma quietly has some great snow resorts of its own. Located in northeast Gunma near the border with Niigata, Minakami has 10 ski resorts and is just 90 minutes from Tokyo. Oze Katashina is another quality area that flies under the radar. Katashina Town lies in the shadows of mighty Mt. Hotaka and Mt. Shirane and features nearby resorts such as the popular Oze Iwakura, Hotaka Bokujo, a boarder’s park, and Oguna Hotaka, a nice mid-sized resort. Manza, to the east of Katashina, the popular ski and onsen areas of Manza and Kusatsu Resort & Spa are great places to relax before or after a good day on the mountain.
(0278) 72-8101 okutone.jp (weekends
If rails, pipes and jumps are your thing, Okutone ski area is the place to go in Minakami. The park staff takes good care of guests who come to perfect their style at the resort’s park. The night sessions are popular, since they keep the lights on until midnight on Friday and Saturday nights and before national holidays. The north-facing courses have nice snow quality, and you can enjoy some turns on the 3,900-meter long course. Okutone is just two hours from Tokyo, making it super convenient. They offer free tickets to kids under 12 and free coffee if you come before 10 a.m. on weekdays.
Situated just three kilometers from the Minakami Interchange, Norn Minakami is the most convenient of the Minakami Resorts if you are coming by car. The resort is great for families. They’ve created “family zones” where the average slope is just 13 degrees and a Day Care Center where parents can drop off the little ones and enjoy some time on the mountain themselves. Norn is open from 7 a.m. to midnight on weekends, so you can enjoy a long day on the slopes and, like all Minakami resorts, it is not far from some great hot springs.
Although Tenjindaira is better known to most for trekking in summer, when the tram is packed with hikers, the resort is a popular stop on the backcountry trail. The resort itself is relatively small, but lift lines are usually short and the snow quality can be excellent if it’s not too windy up top. However, the secret to “Tenjin” is off the main trails. Those who like their riding steep and deep head for the backcountry. This is “enter at your own risk” territory and not a place to go without avalanche gear (and the knowledge how to use it). Better yet, hire one of the knowledgeable local guides and enjoy some "Japow!"
By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to
Kawaba Minakami Houdaigi
Oze Iwakura
Minakami, Gunma
Minakami, Gunma
TENJINDAIRA TANIGAWADAKE
OKUTONE SNOW PARK
ACCESS
Takasaki Station, then change to the Joetsu Line to Minakami Station, then 20 minutes by bus to Tenjindaira
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen
Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then bus to
(40 minutes)
ACCESS By Train: 150 minutes from Tokyo Station to Minakami Station, then free shuttle. By Car: 90 minutes from Tokyo (Nerima IC) via Kanetsu Expressway
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes) then bus to Houdaigi (70 minutes)
Minakami, Gunma
Minakami, Gunma
Kusatsu Kokusai
(0278) 52-3345 kawaba.co.jp
Dec. 11 - Mid-April 8:30 - 16:00
There’s something different about Kawaba. You’ll notice it the first time you pull into the covered parking area of the eight-story Kawaba City center house. There are six floors of parking and the seventh and eighth floors are filled with restaurants and ski/board shops. On the mountain, Kawaba is progressive as well with a nice balance of park and powder. Within the 10,790 meters of skiable terrain is the “Powder Zone,” a section of the mountain left ungroomed for powder lovers. There is a good mogul course, the Free Ride Park (back by popular demand) and a 3,300-meter trail for cruising. Kawaba City also includes a ski school, kids corner and locker rooms.
ACCESS By Train and Shuttle Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes), then a 50-minute shuttle bus ride to Kawaba
KUSATSU ONSEN
(0279) 88-8111 www.932-onsen.com/winter
Dec. 19 - Apr. 6 8:30 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)
Although Kusatsu is famous as one of the country’s best onsen resorts, the area also features a quality ski resort that has been around since the Taisho Era and is open nearly six months out of the year. Kusatsu Snow & Spa has a zipline, Kids Square where the little ones can enjoy activities such as snow tubing, and a variety of courses for all levels. However, the best part of being at Kusatsu is the fact you can enjoy some world-famous hot springs after a great day on the mountain.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Karuizawa Station from Tokyo (72 minutes), then 55 min. by direct bus from Karuizawa Station
Manza Onsen is another of Prince Resorts signature properties, and the hotel’s buildings command an imposing presence at the bottom of the hill. The resort features a lot of good beginner and intermediate runs and is a great place for families. There are not a lot of challenging runs for advanced skiers, but the scenery is beautiful, the snow quality excellent as it is one of Japan’s highest resorts and the hotel has a nice rotenburo (outdoor bath) for after-ski soaking. The facilities and amenities are on a par with what you’d expect from Prince Resorts, making for a stress-free ski experience.
By Train & Bus: Shinkansen to Takasaki Station (50 minutes) then to Manza-kazawaguchi Station (90 minutes). Then change to the Seibu Kanko Bus to Manza Onsen (50 minutes).
OZE IWAKURA
(0278) 58-7777 oze-iwakura.co.jp/ski
Dec. 14 - Apr. 6 8:30 - 16:45 (16:45 - 20:00)
Oze Iwakura is only 150 minutes from Tokyo and one of the top ski resorts in the Kanto region for its variety of slopes and powder snow especially at the 1,700-meter peak. There are 16 courses for all levels of riding, and a kids park. There are also six uncompacted snow courses for powderhounds. Advanced riders can hike up Nishiyama and enjoy backcountry skiing. There are two ski-in, ski-out hotels on the slopes. After a day of riding, relax in hot springs and enjoy Japanese culture. From Tokyo, take a direct highway bus from Shinjuku.
ACCESS From Shinjuku Station, take the Katashina Snow Express express bus to Otekatashina Roadside Station (approx. 180 minutes). From there, transfer to the shuttle bus to Oze
