Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 87 | Summer 2023

Published

PUBLISHER

Outdoor Japan G.K.

DIRECTORS

Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson

FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Gardner Robinson

MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR

Rie Miyoshi

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Bill Ross

CONTRIBUTORS

Quinlan Faris, Derek Yamashita

DESIGN

Outdoor Japan

A

dventure is subjective. For some it may be their first experience at a Japanese hot spring. For others, it’s challenging their fear of heights by bungy jumping or skydiving. For true adventurers, it is a way of life, an intrinsic part of their being that makes them feel alive and connected to the world.There are the adventures of starting your own business, following age-old brewing traditions to make tasty mead like several enterprising microbreweries in Japan. Or there’s the challenge and adventure of creating a fashion brand that only works with local craftsmen and suppliers, focusing on quality and sustainability over mass production and scalability, like Alisa Ota-Tietboel and Masaaki Ota at Maota.

There is the adventure of launching your own outdoor TV series in Japan during a pandemic, like Janni Olsen and Chris McCombs. The former is a popular TV personality in Japan known as "The Swedish Outdoor Girl" and the latter, a “Tokyo Cowboy” who hates the outdoors. Like most adventures, things often don’t go as planned, but somehow they make it work.

Some adventures are born over beers at the pub like the Knights in White Lycra, celebrating a decade of charity rides to Tohoku to raise funds for Mirai no Mori and bring hope to underprivileged children in Japan. And there are adventures with friends, such as culinary tours where you can hook your own fish from the sea and bring your catch directly to the table for an unforgettable meal.

Finally, there are classic outdoor adventures, where experience, knowledge and planning are necessary, such as an attempt on Mt. Fuji before or after the main climbing season. You’ll find these and more in our summer issue.

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@outdoorjapan

Over the years we've had the pleasure of meeting ordinary people doing extraordinary things. We've also been lucky to work with great companies like Montbell that support local communities and human-powered outdoor activities— while making great gear.

They recently introduced us to Xavier and Celine Pasche, who have been cycling around the world for more than two decades and are now touring Japan. When I found out they had been cycling with their two daughters (aged five and ten) I was astonished. As a father of two kids under 10 years old, I’m aware of the the commitment, passion, patience and love that must go into the journey they are on as a family.

As I write, they are pedaling over the pass on Route 292 to Madarao. Over the next few days they’ll give a talk in Iiyama and then continue to Nozawa Onsen to rest before pushing north to Hokkaido. Read their story to find out more about this amazing family of adventurers, follow their journey, catch one of their talks and support their journey. We look forward to their travelogue about their recent Japan adventures in our autumn issue.

The Adventure Travel and Trade Association (ATTA) believes the three pillars of adventure (travel) are nature, culture and physical activity. By that definition, Japan is blessed. The ATTA must agree as they chose Japan—Sapporo, Hokkaido to be specific—as the venue for this year’s annual Adventure Travel World Summit. It’s an incredible opportunity for Japan to welcome some of the world’s most influential figures in adventure travel from industry leaders to top tour organizers, guides and travel writers. We’re proud to have been promoting adventure travel in Japan since 2000 and we wish all the delegates, participants and visitors here for the summit a successful event.

Cover Photo: Xavier Pasche

©2023 OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Views expressed herein are not necessarily those of OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K. Printed in Japan. AIRLINE PARTNERS Traveler magazine is available at selected lounges, reservations counters and in-flight libraries with the following airline partners. トラベラーマガジンは、空港ラウンジや予約カウンターや、右記航空会社インフライト・ライブラリーにてお読みいただけます。 —Gardner

Robinson

From theEditor

GUIDE LINES

Summer Events

RACES

World Aquatics Championships 2023 Fukuoka

The competition will take place at several venues around Fukuoka City, starting with diving at Fukuoka Prefectural Pool and choreographed swimming and water polo at Marine Messe Fukuoka. Athletes will compete in open-water swimming and high diving at Seaside Momochi Beach Park. This event will be followed by the masters championships held across Kyushu.

When: July 14-30

Where: Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Web: fina-fukuoka2022.org

Salomon 4100D Mountain Trail in Nozawa Onsen

This run is held in the traditional hot spring village and Olympic ski town of Nozawa Onsen. There are long (65 kilometers), middle (37 kilometers) and short (14 kilometers) courses and participants can run solo, as a pair or in a group.

When: July 16

Where: Nozawa Onsen, Nagano Web: s-mountain.com/nozawa

OMM Lite and Bike Otari

This entry-level race is designed to give newbies a feel of an Original Mountain Marathon (OMM) navigational race in mountainous Hakuba. The OMM Lite is a two-day race with some off-trail areas, but mostly on trail with teams of two to five people. Families and friends who are not participating can camp with racers in the overnight camping area. The OMM Bike (the cycling version of OMM Lite) will be held simultaneously.

When: July 22-23

Where: Otari, Nagano Web: theomm.jp

World Aquatics Masters Championships 2023 Kyushu

Following the Fukuoka events, this masters championships will be held across Fukuoka City, Kumamoto City and Kagoshima City. The final races will wrap up on August 11th.

When: Aug. 2-11

Where: Kyushu Web: worldaquatics.com

Niseko Hanazono Hill Climb

This 14-kilometer race starts at Kutchan— the Potato Festival will be held here simultaneously—and runs mainly on flat roads to the Kutchan Agricultural High School. From there, climb a wide mountain road. The last two kilometers becomes a single lane with a steep slope until the goal at the border between Kutchan and Niseko towns.

When: Aug. 6

Where: Kutchan, Hokkaido Web: nisekohillclimb.com

Mt. Rokko Trail Run and Summer Picnic

This trail run is held on Yama no Hi, or Mountain Day, at Mt. Rokko, which overlooks Osaka Bay. The 28-kilometer course goes up to 1,750 meters and takes about six hours, while the 10K race reaches 300 meters and takes about four hours. There is also a familyfriendly rogaining challenge held the same day.

When: Aug. 11

Where: Kobe Municipal Arboretum, Hyogo Web: actrep-sports.com/mt-rokko-picnic

FIBA Basketball World Cup 2023

Okinawa joins Manila and Jakarta as hosts of the FIBA Basketball World Cup 2023. Group plan or the first two rounds will be held at Okinawa Arena where some of the world's best basketball players will gather and compete for the title. The quarterfinals and finals will be played in Manila.

When: Aug. 25 - Sept. 3

Where: Okinawa Arena, Okinawa Web: fiba.basketball/basketballworldcup/2023

NAC Trail Run

Hokkaido’s first trail run returns for its 21st race. Choose between a hardcore 30-kilometer mountain course, a shorter 10K run and a 5K serene forest trail course.

When: Sept. 3

Where: Niseko, Hokkaido Web: nacadventures.jp/events/nac-trail-run-inniseko

Central Alps Nishikoma Bokka

Bokka in Japanese means to carry luggage or supplies up a mountain. This unusual hill climb goes up to Nishikoma, Japan’s central Alps’ northernmost mountain hut. Nishikoma was built as an evacuation hut in 1913 by local residents and the tradition of preserving this hut continues with this trail run. Choose between three or 15-kilogram stacks of firewood and run up to the 2,690-meterhigh hut at Mt. Shogikashira.

When: Sept. 3

Where: Kiso Mountains, Nagano Web: sportsentry.ne.jp/event/ t/90864

Zao Skyrun 2023

Run from spa to sky in Yamagata. The run starts from Zao Onsen’s hot spring town and heads up to the 1,840-meter Mt. Zao. You’ll also pass by the vividcolored Lake Okama.

When: Sept. 9-10

Where: Zao Onsen, Yamagata Web: zaoskyrun.com

Adventure Travel World Summit

Travel professionals from around the world will come together this fall at Asia’s first Adventure Travel World Summit. There will be cycling and walking tours in between intriguing panel discussions by speakers including Shannon Stowell, CEO of the Adventure Travel Trade Association, and best-selling author Pico Iyer.

When: Sept. 11-14

Where: Sapporo, Hokkaido Web: events.adventuretravel.biz/ summit/hokkaido-2023

NAC Trail Run

Spartan Race Beast/Sprint

This course takes advantage of the hilly terrain at Gala Yuzawa Ski Resort and promises great views at the top. For a tasty reward, our friends at Baird Beer will be serving fresh craft beer at their booth.

When: Sept. 23

Where: Gala Yuzawa, Niigata Web: jp.spartan.com/en

Alps Outdoor Summit

This three-day event connects local and international outdoor brands and makers while exploring Matsumoto, the gateway to the Kamikochi mountains. Discover manufacturers changing the adventure travel scene, then go hiking or cycling during peak autumn foliage season.

When: Oct. 6-8

Where: Matsumoto, Nagano Web: alpsoutdoorsummit.jp/en

Tour de Kyushu

Eighteen teams from Japan and abroad will be cycling on an epic route through Kyushu’s historic, oceanic and volcanic landscapes. The race begins at Kitakyushu’s Kokura Castle then continues over the following days through Fukuoka, Kumamoto and Oita prefectures, passing through the five Aso mountains and ending with a high-speed sprint in Hita’s city center in Oita.

When: Oct. 6-9

Where: Kyushu

Web: tourdekyushu.asia/en

Grinduro

This adventure cycling race combines the best elements of a mountain bike enduro with a gravel grinder-style road race. Plus racers can enjoy delicious food, an art and bike festival, live music and camping in the Japan alpine village of Hakuba. The 80K course follows flowing singletrack to flat rice fields.

When: Oct. 7-9

Where: Hakuba, Nagano Web: ridejapan.cc

BikesBeachBergs

KIDS’ SUMMER CAMPS

Imagine Summer Camp

Kids get a taste of a wide range of activities on land and water around Niseko at this weekly camp. Daily transport takes kids from the standard pick-up spot in Niseko Higashiyama, with the option to add pick-up points such as in Kutchan or Sapporo. The first three days are day trips and the last two are an overnight camping excursion. The destinations range from the rivers of Kyogoku to the forests of Kimobetsu and from an ostrich farm in Niseko to Lake Toya. In one of Imagine’s signature activities, teams are challenged to build their own “civilizations” in a forest using tools, limited resources and natural materials. They also learn survival skills, cook on their own campfire and build bamboo rafts. Other highlights include cycling, snorkeling, SUP, river rafting, water fights and classic outdoor team games.

When: Weekly between June 19-Aug. 28

Where: Niseko, Hokkaido

Age: 7-14 Web: imagine-japan.com

ReWild Child Forest School

ReWild Child’s two-day summer day camps give children the freedom to roam the forest and explore nature. The camps start around a fire circle and include activities such as raft making, hand balsam making, fire striking, slacklining, nature potions, bow and arrows and happa zome (Japanese leaf printing). There’s free time to hunt for bugs, build dens or simply swing and relax in a hammock.

Niseko Gravel

This autumn race is a mixedsurface ride taking adventure cyclists through forest roads, gravel climbs and iconic Hokkaido farm trails.

When: Sept. 23-24

Where: Niseko, Hokkaido Web: nisekogravel.com

Spartan Race Trail/Kids

Enjoy grand views of Mt. Fuji at this 10K race in Susono City, near Hakone and the Ashitaka mountains. There will also be the first-ever standalone Spartan Kids race.

When: Sept. 30-Oct. 1

Where: Susono, Shizuoka Web: jp.spartan.com/en

Hakone Hill Climb

This road bike competition climbs to the top of Mount Hakone covering approximately 20 kilometers.

When: Oct. 1

Where: Hakone, Kanagawa Web: walkride-cycling.info/ hakone-hc-top

This 125-km. ride is for roadies as it’s a mostly paved course. Explore the southernmost point of the subtropical Izu peninsula with its ocean lookouts and beaches; the ride starts with a smooth yet hilly route in Shimoda. Head to Shirahama Beach before heading for the hills and traversing the center of Minami Izu. The checkpoint is in Matsuzaki, an up-and-coming MTB town. Enjoy quintessentially Japanese scenes at Ishibu rice terrace. Cycle to Cape Irozaki before returning to Shimoda.

When: Oct. 29-30

Where: Izu, Shizuoka Web: ridejapan.cc

Sea to Summit

Montbell’s popular Sea to Summit race series aims to help invigorate local areas, holding events where participants can experience nature through canoeing, cycling, trekking and other means of human-powered movement.

When and Where:

July 1-2: Bizen, Okayama

July 15-16: Myoko, Niigata

July 22-23: Gassan, Yamagata

Aug. 19-20: Asahidake, Hokkaido

Aug. 26-27: Mt. Chokai, Yamagata

Oct. 7-8: Kamimachi, Miyagi

Oct. 14-15: Chikuma River, Nagano Web: seatosummit.jp

When: July 17-18

Where: Hayama, Kanagawa

Age: 7-14

Web: rewildchildcom.wordpress.com

EdVenture Summer Kids Camp

Choose between three or five-day camps; experiences include custom skateboard building, tree planting workshops, mountain biking, cultural excursions and organic vegetable farm visits.

When: Weekly between June to August

Where: Niseko, Hokkaido

Age: 3 and up Web: edventureniseko.com

Evergreen Summer Camp

Evergreen Outdoor Center runs outdoor education programs for international schools, families and groups in the beautiful Japan Alps. Programs range from day experiences to nine-day camps. Activities include raft building, hiking, river rafting, canyoning, mountain biking, stand-up paddle boarding, tree climbing, rock climbing and orienteering in the Hakuba outdoors.

When: June 19-Aug. 25 (5-day and 10-day camps)

Where: Hakuba, Nagano

Age: 7-16

Web: evergreen-hakuba.com

Spartan Race Beast/Sprint

English Adventure

English Adventure runs English camp experiences for children from kindergarten to middle school. This camp is nestled in the mountains near Tsunan in Niigata and emphasizes English speaking skills, personal development and growth. Fun camp activities include crafts, camp games, hiking and campfires.

When: July 22 - Aug. 23 (Multi-day camps)

Where: Tsunan, Niigata Age: 6 and up Web: english-adventure.org

MUSIC FESTIVALS

Corona Sunsets Festival

When: July 15-16

Where: Toyosaki Seaside Park, Okinawa Web: corona-extra.jp/sunsets-fes

Fuji Rock

When: July 28-30

Where: Naeba Ski Resort, Niigata Web: fujirockfestival.com

Rock in Japan Festival

When: Aug. 5-6, Aug. 11-13

Where: Chiba Soga Sports Park, Chiba Web: rijfes.jp

Rising Sun Rock Festival in Ezo

When: Aug. 11-12

Where: Ishikari, Hokkaido Web: rsr.wess.co.jp

Music Circus

When: Aug. 11-13

Where: Sennan Long Park, Osaka Web: music-circus.jp

Earth Celebration

When: Aug. 18-20

Where: Ogi, Sado Island, Niigata Web: earthcelebration.jp

Summer Sonic

When: Aug. 19-20

Where: Tokyo and Osaka Web: summersonic.com

MadStreet Music Festival

When: Aug. 19-20

Where: Madarao, Nagano Web: madaraomountainresort.com

Space Shower Sweet Love Shower

When: Aug. 25-27

Where: Yamanakako, Yamanashi Web: sweetloveshower.com

Gampeki Music Festival

When: Mid-Sept.

Where: Uriwari Stone Park, Yamagata Web: gampeki.com

Sunshine Festival

When: Sept. 16-18

Where: Naeba, Niigata Web: sunshinefestival.jp

New Acoustic Camp

When: Sept. 16-18

Where: Minakami, Gunma Web: newacousticcamp.com

Ringo Fes

When: Sept. 23-24

Where: Matsumoto Alps Park, Nagano Web: ringofes.info

Asagiri Jam

When: Oct. 21-22

Where: Asagiri Kogen, Shizuoka Web: asagirijam.jp

OTHER EVENTS

Montbell Photo Contest

Montbell, Japan’s largest homegrown outdoor brand, is hosting their fifth annual photo contest. Photo submissions include mountaineering, trekking, camping, kayaking, cycling, fishing, climbing, hiking and enjoying outdoor activities. Landscape and nature photography may also be submitted. Enter for your chance to win a ¥50,000 Montbell gift card and other exciting prizes. Anyone is eligible.

When: Until Aug. 31 Web: montbell.jp

CRAFT BEER FESTIVALS

Hibiya Oktoberfest

When: July7-17

Where: Hibiya Park, Tokyo Web: oktober-fest.jp

Tsukuba Craft Beer Fes

When: July 21-23

Where: Tsukuba, Ibaraki Web: tsukuba-craftbeerfest.com

BeerFes

When and Where:

Aug. 5-6: Nagoya

Sept. 9-10: Yokohama

TBD: Osaka and Okinawa Web: beerfes.jp

Belgian Beer Weekend

When: Sept. 14-18

Where: Roppongi, Tokyo Web: belgianbeerweekend.jp/en

TRADITIONAL SUMMER AND FIREWORKS FESTIVALS

July 1-15: Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival, Fukuoka

July 1-31: Gion Festival, Kyoto

July 7-9: Shonan Hiratsuka Tanabata Festival, Kanagawa

July 15: Ueno Park Festival, Tokyo

July 20-22: Kumatani Uchiwa (Fan) Festival, Saitama

July 21-Aug. 18: Sapporo Summer Festival, Hokkaido

July 22-23: Ogionsa Summer Festival, Kagoshima

July 25: Osaka Tenjin Festival, Osaka

July 29-30: Matsuri Erekoccha Dance Festival, Miyazaki

July 29-30: Nagasaki Minato Festival, Nagasaki

July 31: Kosui Lake Festival, Kanagawa

End of July: Haneda Festival, Tokyo

End of July: Chidorigafuchi Moat Floating Lantern Festival, Tokyo

Beg. of Aug.: Tsukiji Honganji Bon Odori Festival, Tokyo

Aug. 1-4: Morioka Sansa Dance Festival, Iwate

Aug. 2-7: Aomori Nebuta Festival, Aomori

Aug. 2-3: Nagaoka Fireworks Festival, Niigata

Aug. 3: Hinokuni Summer Festival, Kumamoto

Aug. 3-6: Akita Kanto Festival, Akita

Aug. 4-6: Fukushima Waraji Festival, Fukushima

Aug. 4-6: Niigata Festival, Niigata

Aug. 4-9: Oita Tanabata Festival, Oita

Aug. 5: Torii Gate Burning Festival, Kanagawa

Aug. 5: Chikugogawa River Fireworks Festival, Fukuoka

Aug. 5-6: Nakameguro Summer Festival

Aug. 5-6: Onmaku Fireworks Festival, Ehime

Aug. 5-7: Yamagata Hanagasa Festival, Yamagata

Aug. 6-8: Sendai Tanabata Festival, Miyagi

Aug. 9-12: Yosakoi Festival, Kochi

Aug. 11-15: Awa Odori Dance Festival, Tokushima

Aug. 12-13: Okinawa All-Island Eisa Summer Festival, Okinawa

Aug. 12-14: Yuki Niseko Bon Festival, Niseko

Aug. 13-16: Gujo Odori Bon Dance Festival, Gifu

Aug. 19-20: Okayama Momotaro Summer Festival, Okayama

Aug. 26: Akita Omagari Fireworks Festival, Akita

Sept. 1-3: Owara Kaze no Bon Festival, Toyama

Adventure Travel World Summit

IN HOKKAIDO

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

The Adventure Travel and Trade Association (ATTA) will host their first Adventure Travel World Smmit in Asia Sept. 11-14 in Hokkaido, Japan. Outdoor Japan caught up with ATTA Director Shannon Stowell to find out more about what makes this the gathering of the year for the adventure travel industry and how it continues to grow and evolve here and around the world.

How is adventure travel defined by the ATTA?

It’s common for people to assume that adventure travel means risk, but our studies of travelers shows the three “pillars" of adventure travel are nature, culture and physical activity. This means adventure travel is accessible to anyone. Of course there will be trips to destinations and activities with higher inherent risks (climbing in the Himalayas, for example), but the majority of tours are quite safe and managed well to mitigate unnecessary risks.

How integral is “do good through travel” to the ATTA’s mission?

It’s the baseline for us. If travel is healthy for the destination, it will be better for everyone involved, from the traveler to the suppliers of tours, accommodations, etc. Our mission and vision involve travel that preserves cultural heritage and the local environment.

Did the pandemic affect trends in adventure travel?

It feels like the pandemic turned up the dial for more sustainable options in travel while community travel also has seen a real surge

© ATTA BORDER FREE TRAVELS

in interest. This is great news for remote communities who rely on travelers’ spending to economically thrive. One interesting piece of information that popped up last fall as I surveyed operators was a focus on sustainability that was particularly driven by their young staff. A focus on sustainable, healthy adventure travel seems to be on the rise!

Is demand still on the rise?

While I dislike the term “revenge travel,” there’s no question there is huge pent-up demand. This is the first recorded time in history travel bookings are still increasing in the face of a recession! It’s proof that people have had it with being stuck at home.

How has ATTA membership grown?

When I started in 2004 our membership was about 80% U.S. based. That number has now dropped to 40% as our international growth has developed over the last 19 years. Europe and Latin America are our second and third highest membership regions with Asia rapidly growing leading up to our first Adventure Travel World Summit in Hokkaido.

How did the summit land in Hokkaido?

Members from Hokkaido approached us more than five years ago wanting to build a plan to develop and grow adventure travel in Japan, specifically in Hokkaido. Since that time we’ve had a wonderful and productive relationship with each other to see that vision come to life.

What kind of potential do you see in Japan?

There is a general appeal (I’m learning) and a relatively low number of travel professionals who have been to Japan. So, I think the strong, deep culture, the love of nature and the growing understanding of adventure activities and travel with Japan are growing rapidly. What have been some memorable experiences in Japan?

Hiking in Hokkaido, sea kayaking in Okinawa, culinary adventures everywhere and forest bathing have all been memorable. Of course Japan, particularly Hokkaido, is appreciated for its snow sports as well! How is Japan as an adventure travel destination developing?

I don’t have much personal experience before 2018, but, from what I understand, Japan is mostly in the early stages of developing adventure travel products on a larger scale. This is actually advantageous, because the government and companies have the opportunity to learn from other destinations’ mistakes and avoid the same pitfalls.

I think Japan’s culture has been wonderfully preserved over the years and still seems to be holding strong. This is such a powerful thing for visitors to experience—especially in a world that increasingly looks more homogenous and commoditized. Japan remains unique, beautiful and exciting for the discerning traveler. What are the summit's goals each year?

The main goal would be for our delegates from around the world to have an incredible experience in Japan for themselves personally and for their businesses and organizations. We also want Japan and Hokkaido to develop strong business opportunities for the near future and long haul. We always survey participants if the event was worth their time and resources spent and we’ve had more than 90% say “Absolutely.”

This year’s theme is "Harmony.” How important is it for the industry to be in tune?

I think in a time when we collectively face massive threats of climate change, ecosystem collapse, language and cultural homogeneity, it is vital that we be aligned wherever possible to strive for solutions together. Divided we fall. How did award-winning author—and longtime Japan resident—Pico Iyer become a keynote speaker?

Pico Iyer is simply one of the best travel writers, speakers and thinkers today. He spoke at our event in 2013 in Namibia and the crowd absolutely loved him. We’ve been waiting to bring him back when it worked out and this year it did! The fact that he’s lived in Japan for 30 plus years will also make it even more special as he connects with our audience. Investing in indigenous communities is an important goal of the ATTA. How has Hokkaido’s Ainu community responded?

I can’t speak for them directly, but we have met with some of the Ainu leaders in my trips there and they seem to be engaged. Some companies like Tsuruga Hotel Group have taken special interest in the Ainu’s opportunities in travel and that makes us very happy.

What opportunities are there for prospective ATTA members?

We have everything from free community memberships to full business memberships. There’s something for everyone interested in upping their game in adventure travel. Obviously the business membership provides more benefits including education, resources, connectivity within the industry and up-to-date knowledge of trends and opportunities. v

WEB CONNECTION

Adventure Travel World Summit Hokkaido: events.adventuretravel.biz/summit/hokkaido-2023

ATTA Membership: membership.adventuretravel.biz

ATT Website: adventuretravel.biz

© ATTA BORDER FREE TRAVELS

© ATTA Rupert Shanks

Sea toTable in YAMAGATA

BY DEREK YAMASHITA

Yamagata’s coastal Shonai Region is far from crowded tourist routes and populated city centers. It’s blessed with natural resources as sacred mountains feed rivers that flow down into the Japan Sea. An unforgettable way to intimately explore this area, while getting outdoors and meeting locals, is a culinary experience that brings the fresh bounty of the sea straight to your table.

FROM THE SEA

Known as one of the three “fishing kingdoms of Japan,” the coast of Yamagata is home to incredibly rich fishing grounds full of fishing spots with a plethora of migratory species like tuna and rich breeding grounds of prized fish like Japanese sea bream which can be caught throughout the year.

Fishermen in Yamagata regularly haul up prized fish worth over a hundred dollars and a full ice chest back at port. While this would be a lucky day out in most parts of Japan, it’s just another day in the office here. Join a sport fishing cruise into the deep blue to hunt for a variety of species. Depending on the season and conditions, the boat captain and local guides will position the boat and provide tips to help with a successful day on the water.

The region has a relatively low population with minimal manufacturing so the fish here are plentiful, clean and delicious. There are an incredible variety of fish that coexist in the waters off the coast and part of the excitement is never quite knowing what's fighting on the other end of your line until you have it in the net.

The local guides also use a variety of Japan-specific techniques including special types of lures, baits and rigs that both beginners and experienced anglers can learn and put into practice right on the boat.

TO THE TABLE

Getting your catch to the table begins right when you pull the boat up to the harbor. Many chefs in Japan order their fish directly from specific fishermen who take steps to preserve the fish according to the requests of the chefs.

This includes techniques like ikejime , which destroys the nerves of the fish and drastically reduces “fishy” flavors and aroma. It even allows the fish to keep for up to two weeks by reducing lactic acid build up in the fish, which can bring out new flavors and textures. The captain will oversee these techniques with your fish before delivering your prized catch to an allstar team of local chefs near the port, who are renowned for their skills preparing fresh fish.

Here is where you can witness the work that goes into preparing the beautiful sashimi and grilled dishes that end up at great restaurants in the area. If you are up for it, some chefs may even encourage you to step behind the counter and work alongside them to prepare your fish from start to finish.

And finally after a full day of learning and building up an appetite, there’s nothing quite like enjoying a feast you’ve had a hand in from start to finish with the Yamagata locals.

Essential Info

When to Go

Fishing off the west coast of Japan is best in the summer months of June, July and August when the seas are the calmest and there is the lowest chance of weather-related cancellations. However, for those able to plan a multi-day visit to the Yamagata Region with some flexibility in their schedule, May and November are excellent times for both migratory fish and high-fat content fish like sea bream and yellowtail, which make for great eating. Fishing in the winter months from December to early March are not recommended due to often turbulent weather.

Getting There

The easiest way to get to the coastal region of Yamagata is a direct flight from Haneda Airport to Shonai Airport, which takes one hour. You can also go by train using the Japan Rail Pass (Niigata Area) to either Tsuruoka or Sakata Station.

Places to Stay

Lodging in Sakata City or one of the fishermen homestays in Tsuruoka City is highly recommended as fishing boats will depart early in the morning. A close hotel will drastically reduce stress in the morning for reaching your boat on time.

To book a culinary adventure in Yamagata or learn more about the experience, visit thehiddenjapan.com/sea-totable-experiences-yamagata v

The Sweet Secrets of

Brewing Mead

BY RIE MIYOSHI

Wander into the world of mead brewing and you'll quickly find yourself immersed in a fascinating journey that spans centuries and continents. As the craft beer movement has taken root in Japan, artisanal beverages have also begun sprouting up in popularity and mead is making a comeback.

The origins of mead are shrouded in the mists of time. Mead, often referred to as "honey wine," is one of the oldest fermented beverages. An ancient Indian text, known as the “Rigveda,” mentions it as early as 1,700 B.C. It is believed that civilizations across the globe stumbled upon this magical transformation of honey into a heavenly drink around this time. From the Vikings to the ancient Greeks and Celts, mead was cherished as a beverage of celebration, romance and ritual. In Japan, mead is said to have been introduced from China during the Yayoi Period around 300 B.C. The Chinese had a long history of mead production, and it is likely that the brewing techniques were brought over to Japan along with other cultural exchanges.

The brewing process is relatively simple, yet offers an infinite canvas for creativity. It begins with the careful selection of highquality honey, the key ingredient that provides the distinct sweetness and flavor profile of the final product. The honey is mixed with water and sometimes infused with fruits, spices or herbs. Yeast is then introduced to kickstart fermentation. Honey is long lasting so mead can be produced year round. Mead can range from dry to lusciously sweet, from floral and fruity to bold and spicy.

The decline of mead's popularity occurred gradually over several centuries, diminishing from mainstream consumption by the 16th and 17th centuries. Mead began to lose favor in many regions of Europe during the

late Middle Ages and early modern period due to increased availability and affordability of other beverages— like wine and beer—and the cost and resources required for mead production and the industrialization of brewing. However, while mead declined in popularity, it still maintained regional and cultural significance in some areas and never completely disappeared from the brewing landscape.

Its current revival can be traced back to recent decades thanks to the growth of microbreweries (craft beer) and artisanal drinks. People are drawn to its historical roots and the opportunity to explore ancient

Courtesy of Deerlet Field Brewery

brewing traditions. The focus on local sourcing and sustainability has also played a role, with consumers appreciating the use of locally produced honey.

Mead brewing in Japan did not take hold until the early 2000s when a small group of enthusiasts began experimenting with mead production using local ingredients. They are the pioneers of Japanese mead production as there were no Japanese texts they could follow, so they had to look overseas and incorporate local ingredients and traditional brewing techniques.

One of the challenges they face is the availability of honey. It is also prized in Japan and to convert it into wine may be seen as a waste. However, with the growing interest in mead, local beekeepers have started to produce honey on a larger scale, ensuring a steady supply.

In recent years, the Japanese mead industry has gained international recognition, with some Japanese meads winning awards at international competitions.

DEERLET FIELD BREWERY

Nestled in the Chichibu mountains in Saitama Prefecture is Deerlet Field Brewery, which operates from the first floor of an abandoned school. It’s founded by Elena

Kudo, a Ukrainian-Russian raised in Aizu Wakamatsu, Fukushima. In her early 20s, she met a mead brewer in her hometown making a small production of Aizu mead and was intrigued by his rose nectar mead.

“I got into brewing because I like alcohol: sake , wine and beer,” Kudo laughs, half joking. Together with this brewer and her husband, Kudo launched Deerlet two years ago. “It’s great to be part of starting something new in Japan as mead is just reentering the scene.”

At Deerlet, they follow similar brewing methods to sake, including using sake yeast that can only be found in Japan. The boiler is heated entirely by locally sourced firewood. After fermenting the mead for a month bringing it up to an alcohol content of 10%, they heat the mead to kill the yeast, stop the fermentation then bottle the liquor. This results in non-carbonated mead similar to light-bodied, sweet white wine.

“In Poland and parts of Europe, mead is very sweet, herbal and almost viscous,” Kudo explains. “But here, there’s a ‘craft boom’ to make mead more like wine.”

While they do not infuse their mead, they source honey from four locations. Their local wildflower nectar honey mead has muscat grape flavors and pairs well with cheese. The Aomori apple goes well with oysters and scallops. The tropical Vietnam lychee is recommended with steak, lamb and Gibier meat and the citrusy Mexican orange with nuts, prosciutto and carpaccio.

Aside from selling online, Deerlet’s mead can be found at Shinanoya liquor stores in Shinjuku, Toyosu and Roppongi in Tokyo, and souvenir shops at Chichibu, Saitama. Web: meadery.jp

HACHIMITSU KOUBOU

Hachimitsu Koubou sits in the heart of the Chiba peninsula in Kimitsu City. On a weekend afternoon, it is buzzing with families and couples sampling honey and mead. Launched in summer 2021, this meadery is a tourist attraction as it has a gift shop, ice cream stand and a free meadery and beehive tour.

They source their own honey here, as owner Yukihiro Ijima’s grandfather was a beekeeper. The hives are transported to different parts of Japan, for example Aomori Prefecture for tochi honey or south for the herbal shina honey. After a month, they’re brought back and the brewing

Courtesy of Deerlet Field Brewery

Courtesy of Hachimitsu Koubou

Courtesy of Deerlet Field Brewery

Courtesy of Hachimitsu Koubou

process begins using only honey, water and yeast. The mead is fermented for two weeks.

“We use a blend of wine yeast, Japanese sake yeast and sometimes champagne yeast,” says brewer Atsumi Yaginuma, who comes from a winemaking background. “The result is a sweet white wine with a refreshing finish.”

Their most popular product is their plain mead. Other flavors include apple, orange, “craft” (a carbonated mead with 5% alcohol content), lychee, and, depending on the season, sakura (cherry blossoms). It pairs well with cheese and nuts.

“We’ve also gotten feedback from customers that our mead goes well with yudoufu (hot tofu),” adds Yaginuma.

He hopes to expand their brewing processes, like using two-step fermentation for sparkling mead, fermenting longer for dry mead, creating mead more similar to beer, and adding spices and fruit juice.

Find their Pure Mead line online or at their store. Their free 30-minute tour can be booked online or on weekends directly at the store. Web: hachimitsu-koubou.com

WICKED WAY MEAD

Up in mountainous Nagano, CanadianAmerican Eric Bossick brews award-winning Wicked Way Mead. His mead has been on the market since 2018 and, in 2021, his dessert mead was the first mead from Japan to win gold in the 2021 Mazer Cup, said to be the largest mead competition in the world.

Bossick was originally working as an actor and photographer in Japan for nearly 20 years. He was drawn to mead while traveling in the Czech Republic in 2009, as it’s a hub

for filming in Europe and he hoped to audition for a few roles.

“It’s a mysterious country full of stories and legends, and you can still visit many alchemy labs and old castles,” remembers Bossick. He tried mead at a cafe while sightseeing and was hooked. When he returned to Japan, he couldn’t find it anywhere and wanting to satisfy the nostalgia of his travels, he started making his own mead. He then went on to study honey fermentation at the University of California Davis, then returned again to start Wicked Way Mead.

While he brews in Nagano, Bossick operates a small bee farm near his house in Tsurukawa, just on the outskirts of metropolitan Tokyo.

“This is more for my own research,” admits Bossick as he inspects the hives. It’s a full-on job as he listens to make sure the bees are buzzing healthily, watches for any population changes or irregular patterns, and most importantly, checks for pests.

“In Japan, the bees are targeted by suzumebachi, giant hornets, who eat the honeybees. Sometimes moths lay their eggs in the hives. There might also be dani (mites). Up near the mountains, you get bears and wild boars trying to get the honey,” Bossick says as he spots a hornet and kills it. In a few days he’ll be building a barrier that would block the hornets.

He brews five types of mead, his most popular being The Pathfinder, which won the 2020 Mazer Cup Bronze medal. The Pathfinder has a distinctly Japanese flavor as it uses sake yeast and nanohana, acacia, lotus and horse chestnut nectar honey. In contrast, the dry Shimmering Sun uses Portuguese wine yeast and honey from Ehime in the south.

Bossick ferments blueberry juice with honey for his Midnight mead and sells it unfiltered, which tastes

similar to red wine due to tannins from the berries. The Golden Treasure is recommended for people who enjoy whiskey and rum, as it is aged in a Jamaican rum barrel. Finally, the Ring of Fire uses caramelized apple honey and Madagascar vanilla beans which transform it into a rich dessert mead. Bossick plans to brew herbal infusions in the future. His mead is available at liquor stores in Tokyo, Nagano, Shizuoka and online. Web: wickedwaymead. com

Mead brewing in Japan continues to evolve, with new flavors and techniques being explored. The combination of ancient brewing traditions, local ingredients and modern innovations has resulted in a diverse mead culture in Japan, offering a delightful and distinct drinking experience for enthusiasts as well as those taking their first sip. v

Courtesy of Wicked Way Mead

Courtesy of Wicked Way Mead Courtesy of Wicked Way Mead

THE KNIGHTS

IN WHITE LYCRA

BY RIE MIYOSHI

Each year a ragtag group of cyclists take to the open road, heading to the deep north towards Tohoku’s vast rice fields and coastal trails. Every collective crank of their bicycles helps transform the lives of neglected children through Mirai no Mori, a non-profit organization that creates life-changing outdoor programs for abused and orphaned children in Japan. It’s this commitment to making a difference that keeps these noble riders pushing toward their goal and 2023 marks the 10th anniversary of their first campaign.

Many great adventures are planned in a pub. Most don’t see the light of day but the Knights in White Lycra (KIWL) are the exception.

“A few friends and I gathered in a pub, thinking what we could do to get rid of our beer bellies,” laughs co-founder Rob Williams. That’s when cycling came to mind. “We bought bikes, and then thought, let’s do something good with these things.”

“The tsunami devastation (from the Great Tohoku Earthquake in 2011) was still fresh in our minds and we wanted to help the communities up in Tohoku,” he adds.

In 2013, they put a plan in motion and cycled 330 kilometers to Minamisoma, one of the coastal towns devastated by the disaster and raised ¥2.7 million for those placed in temporary accommodation.

“I didn’t think I could ride 300 kilometers over three days and that feeling of accomplishment was amazing,” remembers Rob. “We then met the survivors of the tsunami and that really resonated with us.”

Over a decade, the humble group of ten avid cyclists has grown to 45, an international group from all walks of life.

“We have to cap it as the accommodation and support crew can only handle so much. Every year we have so many applicants—we’re booked out!” Rob marvels. “Cycling in Japan is fantastic—the roads are in great condition, drivers are generally courteous and the scenery is beautiful especially Matsushima Bay and Mt. Bandai.”

2016 marked KIWL’s first ride for Mirai no Mori, which has ties with Iwate Prefecture thereby aligning with KIWL’s focus on Tohoku. This year for the first time one of the children who was formerly in care joined the annual KIWL ride.

“She’s 21 now, and volunteers at Mirai no Mori summer camp as it made such an impact on her life,” says Rob.

KIWL’s major event is their annual 500-kilometer cycle spanning four days in Tohoku, usually in early June. In October, during cycling month, KIWL encourages individuals to ride 500 kilometers individually over the course of a month and track their

progress through the Strava app. They also host KIWL Lite, which is half the distance and time from the annual ride. It’s held over a weekend and recommended for amateur riders getting into road cycling. Other events include pub quiz nights, running and walking challenges, golf days and futsal tournaments. This year alone, KIWL raised an impressive ¥14.7 million in just half a year, plus they’ve attracted more sponsors, riders and female riders than they’ve ever had.

“It’s a great way to celebrate our 10th anniversary,” says Rob.

Embracing the spirit of adventure and the power of community, the Knights continue to pedal with purpose, knowing that each mile brings joy, growth and endless possibilities to those who need it most.

For more information, visit kiwl.net

The World is our PLAYGROUND

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

Xavier and Celine Pasche set out on an ambitious journey in 2010 that morphed into a family adventure of a lifetime for their two daughters who were born along the way. This Swiss family has now been cycling and living out of a tent in remote corners of the planet for the past 13 years on four continents spanning 50 countries.

Xavier and Celine Pasche set out on an ambitious journey in 2010 that morphed into a family adventure of a lifetime for their two daughters born along the way. This Swiss family has now been cycling and living out of a tent in remote corners of the planet for the past 13 years on four continents spanning 50 countries.

“We’ve never stopped exploring the Earth. We’ve cycled 87,000 kilometers on four continents,” says Xavier. “The ‘Infinity’ project’ (2010-2015) led us on two loops: one around the sacred Altai Mountains in Siberia, the other around the high peaks of the Himalayas,” he adds.

“From 2016-2022, the ‘Great Northern Horizon’ project took us to the remote corners of Siberia and Mongolia, then to North America, from Alaska to the Atlantic, as well as Eastern Europe. We experienced - 45°C and + 53°C, Arctic tundra, deserts, jungles and so many diverse cultures.”

Celine vividly remembers that first pedal stroke that completely transformed her life. It was a transition that happened in the blink of an eye.

“In 2009, I was on my way to a small music festival in the Swiss Alps. When I met Xavier, I was seduced by the names of the wild areas he mentioned, by the isolated corners he wanted to explore. Xavier had dreams without limits, and he allowed himself to live them,” she recalls.

It wasn’t long before the new couple set off on a three-year cycling adventure from Switzerland to New Zealand with nothing more than their savings and some articles they had written for a Swiss newspaper. They first needed to cross the Alps. Their bodies were tired, muscles aching and minds struggling to go on.

“The Swiss passes propelled us into the intensity of the journey, with rain and snow cutting us off from the surrounding beauty. Our minds worried about the thousands of kilometers to come, the mountains to climb, the deserts to cross, and the cold of the winters. We had no choice but to learn to live here and now,” Xavier remembers.

Yet in the middle of the Kazakh steppes, they felt they were changing. After more than two years on the roads of the world, the adventure they had dreamt, imagined and created had become their life—and it was soon to be one to share. Somewhere along the way they opened themselves up to the possibility of another new adventure—becoming parents.

“I got the intuition I was pregnant in Nepal, at an altitude of 5,500 meters. Facing Everest, I told Xavier that he was going to become a Dad. The power of the Himalayas was all around us. There was only the vibrant silence and the breath of the wind.”

A few years later, while the family was discovering the wonder and culture of Japan, Celine realized she was pregnant again, and a second daughter, Fibie, joined the team. Both daughters were born back in Malaysia and after each birth, when the girls were just five months old, the family would hit the road again. Diving back into the journey with infants (twice), they had to lighten up their loads, taking only the essentials. Above all, they realized, they had to lighten up emotionally and find a new balance. They first cycled as a family of three in Thailand, then as four in Okinawa.

“We needed more than courage. We needed to trust life, to surrender to the path and to let go of the thousands of questions spinning in our heads. We had to find harmony in the constant movement and a rhythm following the needs of Nayla and Fibie: breastfeeding, the necessities of the road, the immersion in a new culture and the changes in climate and weather,” Celine states.

Natural Curiosity

Nayla and Fibie have grown up understanding learning is part of daily life. The Pasche family have chosen to cultivate wonder by spending most of their time in wilderness or nature.

The natural world has become one of their greatest teachers, developing their senses while anchoring them and inviting them to be present. The constant movement develops their bodies and their coordination. They’ve noticed the dexterity, confidence, strength and capacity of their bodies in the way they move.

“I think what we like about this life is the quality of presence we can offer to our children. It is the most amazing thing

to see your children grow, learn, wonder. Our two daughters are part of the team. They take part in the decisions, they pedal, they pitch the tent and above all they play. They play freely in the vast spaces we cross in endless wonder,” they’ve observed.

The sisters are learning by experimentation. Crossing paths with a wolf or a bear is an invitation to discover them, to understand their world, to reveal their behavior. Crossing a desert, experiencing its vast spaces and intense heat through the body, helps them to understand the scarcity of water. This firsthand experience creates a foundation for context, empathy and knowledge.

“In the same way, Nayla and Fibie know what it's like to live at high altitude, in the far north or in the middle of the jungle. They know how to build a shelter, filter water and heal themselves with plants. They know geography because they’ve been there. They know what religion is because they have prayed in temples, mosques, shrines

and churches. They learn about history from the legends of indigenous peoples or from the pasts of nations and civilizations. They learn languages by talking to the people we meet. They discover other ways of being and thinking by living with communities around the world,” the parents note.

Sea to Summit in Hokkaido

The couple first came to Japan in 2012. The second time they traveled in Japan they met Shigeo Kobayashi, who has become a great friend. He introduced them to Isamu Tatsuno, the founder of Montbell, during a Sea to Summit event in Hokkaido.

“Since that day, we’ve had a great connection with Tatsuno-san, filled with respect,” Xavier says. “He really enjoyed spending time with our daughters and we’ve been fortunate to spend some time with him at his home in Nara as well as our friend Noda-san down in Shikoku. Both of them are great adventurers,” he adds.

In 2019 the family received the Montbell Challenge Award, which recognizes and awards

scientific expeditions, humanitarian projects or expeditions of people not afraid of failure. They are also Japan Eco Track Ambassadors. Japan Eco Track is a series of guides to human-powered routes, experiences and local partners around Japan.

“We are really grateful to be supported by Montbell and the quality of their outdoor equipment has helped us in many circumstances,” Xavier states.

As Japan Eco Track Ambassadors, the family will be connecting with people and children to experience Japan's rich and diverse nature by human-powered transportation. For six months, they will cycle 6,000 kilometers in Honshu and Hokkaido. During the journey they will join three Sea to Summit events and be part of three environmental symposiums. They will also give about 30 inspirational talks along the way.

“We will address the importance of being in nature. More than ever, children and nature need to spend time together—re-enchanting in this connection for the development of their senses, their bodies and their self esteem. We need to cultivate their creativity and wonder for the well being of the planet,” Celine says.

“We face great environmental challenges and children’s connection with nature will be key to for them to become the solution-finders of tomorrow. It is also crucial today, as more scientific studies show the disastrous effect nature-deficit disorders can have on children in nearly every society,” she adds.

The family tries to do more with less, using 20 to 40 liters of water a day and recharging their electronic devices with two Dynamo hubs and a solar panel. They’ve clearly chosen what matters

Web Connection

Web: ylia.ch

The Pasche family

most in their lives, spending time with their children and offering daily opportunities for them to live in nature, be present and trust life and their own intuition. This and the four points of their internal compass keeps them going: to live, explore, share and inspire.

Celine adds, “Fibie likes to say, ‘Our home is our tent and the world is our playground.’” v

Follow the Pasche family on their journey or meet them along the way for one of their talks. You can support their mission by purchasing their photography book from Montbell stores or the Montbell online store or by making small donations to plant seeds of hope through their website.

Pasche Family Photo Book: webshop.montbell.jp/goods/disp.php?product_id=3611176

Instagram: instagram.com/nomadfamilybybicycle/

YouTube: youtube.com/channel/UC7qR1BWEKWJrSHaudLEbPhA

Facebook: facebook.com/FamillePasche

Itinerary and Talks: ylia.ch/talk-1/talk.html#Japan2023

Nayla Pasche : Born in 2013 in Malaysia. She has already been on the road for 50,000+ kilometers and cycled 10,000K on her bike. She made her first step in the Angkor temples in Cambodia and is the first and youngest child to have crossed the Nullarbor Desert in Australia.

Fibie Pasche: Born in 2017 in Malaysia. She has been in a chariot or a tandem system for 25,000 kilometers and cycled 800K on her own bike. She learned to walk in a yurt in Mongolia, drinking fermented mare’s milk for her first birthday.

Xavier Pasche : Born in 1980 in Switzerland. Architectural draftsman, editor, photographer and solution-finder. He is the mechanic of the family.

Celine Pasche : Born in 1982 in Switzerland. An anthropologist, speaker, life coach, writer and the mountain leader. She is the medic of the family.

Getting Dirty

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

“Getting Dirty in Japan” is the brainchild of TV host and actress Janni Olsson—endearingly known on Japanese TV as “The Swedish Outdoor Girl”— and Christopher McCombs, who has been working both sides of the camera in Japan for decades and who much prefers the creature comforts of indoor living. He is part of the award-winning media house, Tokyo Cowboys, that produced “The Benza,” a popular comedy that has been airing on Amazon Prime about two roommates’ adventures replacing a broken toilet in Japan. During some Covid downtime the dynamic odd couple dreamt up the show about getting out of the house, out of your comfort zone and into some exciting outdoor adventures and destinations in Japan.

PRE-PRODUCTION

Chris: I met Janni shortly before we began shooting “The Benza” series. Janni was one of just a few new cast members not in the original short film. She jumped right in though and now we’ve been working together on the show for more than five years. We’re about to begin shooting the final season. It’s a bittersweet feeling.

Janni: Over Covid I was thinking about starting a YouTube channel since so many sets weren’t working. Having my own outdoor show on a major TV network was a goal of mine, but I thought I’d have to wait for an offer. Then Chris asked, “Why start a YouTube channel when we could make a TV show?” The rest is history.

Chris: Janni is is one of the most adventurous people I know. I’ve never seen someone throw themselves at challenges the way she does. Yet, when I see her on Japanese travel shows, it seems like they want to portray her as weak or silly. When we initially discussed the show we both insisted nothing was to be faked and we’d be honest with the editing so viewers get a genuine sense of each story and location.

Searching for Tarzan—Treetop adventures in Chiba

Janni: This episode was actually the original pilot. When we shot it we were still trying to figure out the tone and style of shooting the show. I realized just how much I was asking from my team since, aside from myself, no one else had shot outdoor or adventure content before. Our directors, Michael Williams and Raito Nishizaka, really came through. Raito strapped on all of his cameras and joined me on the course up in the trees. Michael had to shoot the campfire conversations during the worst heat wave of the year. All without a script, and we only had one chance to shoot it. Chris came out to the campsite after just one or two hours of sleep and made sure we got all the shots we needed—he pulled us across the finish line. It was tough, but I was proud of how we figured it out.

Chris: In order to get to the camp site in time, I had to leave at 3 a.m. and drive an hour and a half to the middle of nowhere. I vividly recall being annoyed by how loud nature was at that time of the morning. Then the sun came up and I saw the most beautiful view of Japan I had ever seen. I was so touched by the beauty of the moment I wrote the lyrics to the theme song, “Waiting to Be Seen” by Fossilize, right there in the car on the way to Forest Adventure.

Let’s Be Honest—River fishing and city kayaking

Janni: Making an outdoor show with someone that doesn’t like to be outdoors might sound like madness, but it brought a fresh perspective to the show. Despite his distaste for the outdoors, Chris faced it head on. His honest opinions often made me laugh, but they were incredibly valuable. He showed you can bring others along that may not be as excited as you are to be outside, but they can still have fun.

Chris: I hate fishing. I’m sorry, I just do. I realize now I probably shouldn’t have said it as much as I did in the show, but I think viewers realized on the first episode that we were going to tell the truth. You may not agree with me, but you know I’m going to share my honest opinion.

Getting Wet—Riding waves and relaxing hot springs

Janni: This episode may look peaceful, but up until 30 minutes before filming, we didn’t know what we would actually be shooting due to the weather, making it tough to prepare. I wanted to shoot surfing, but if there were no waves we’d have to switch to SUP. Two very different activities—one is easy to shoot, the other, fast and unpredictable. The team showed they could come together no matter what was thrown at them. We often talk on the show about how outdoor adventures never go according to plan, but thats why it's so much fun. I think we all felt that shooting this episode.

Chris: The surfing instructor is every bit as friendly as he appears in the episode. He spoke English well and knew some great spots to eat after surfing. We went out for a bite afterwards and I was very much in love with him, the beach, and that city by the end of the day. I was broken hearted, however, that I wasn’t allowed into the onsen because I have a tattoo. The waiting area and the restaurant at the hot spring was nice though.

Something New—Traditional Japanese horseback archery horseback and glamping Janni: I love the outdoors, but it’s hard convincing my not-so-outdoorsy friends to come along with me. Some want to get into nature more but are afraid they don’t have enough experience or gear—and some just aren’t looking for that hardcore outdoor experience. The glamping site was the perfect middle ground. Everything was provided so you can ease into the outdoor experience. And honestly, sometimes it’s nice to not have to race the sun to pitch your tent before dark. Having lots of yummy food ready to go on the grill was great too. This is probably the one location where every single member of the team was happy at the same time.

Chris: Yabusame (traditional horseback archery) is no joke. The people practicing while

we were there were all serious students and breathtaking to watch. The staff was not sure what to make of us when we first arrived and it was obvious they’d had a bad experience or two with foreign groups in the past. It took a bit of time, but by the end of the shoot we were all laughing and cheering Janni on. One thing I’ve learned from this show is that no matter where you go or what you do, remember to be respectful of nature and the people who make their living from it.

Getting Dirty—Mountain bikes and muddy trails

Janni: I’ve been riding a bike since I was very young, so I walked into this episode full of confidence. I was humbled quickly. Mountain biking on muddy, hilly trails is no joke. Luckily, we had a very patient instructor with us at the MTB park. The instructors and guides really made this show and their passion and skills made us want to push our limits.

In Sweden you pretty much get thrown out into nature at a young age and get to try all kinds of activities. It’s harder to do in Japan, but luckily there are schools and tours with excellent instructors here so you can give it a try no matter your experience.

Chris: There is no scenario where I am going mountain biking with Janni. Having said that, the forest was beautiful to walk through while she was working on her mountain bike skills. The staff was every bit as charming as they appear in the episode. For people like me who don’t enjoy the outdoors, a patient, friendly hand extending an invitation to come along on the adventure goes a long way. It can make the difference between trying something new or just giving up and not going on the journey at all.

Surprise Finish—Facing fears and winging it

Chris: Director Michael Williams and I were having a hard time locating Janni up in the sky, then, off in the distance, I heard a familiar sound. We could actually hear her screaming from the ground. We were laughing so hard as we chased after Janni’s screams. Surprisingly, she was a natural at paragliding and we were all relieved no one got hurt. I remember how hungry we all were after we finished that shoot. The poor BBQ crew were not ready for how much food we ate, but they certainly did their best to keep up with our appetites.

Janni: Before shooting the last episode, Chris kindly pointed out that we had shot

ocean, land and rivers, but we were missing the sky. Yes, I know, that was on purpose! I have always had trouble with heights. I’d get dizzy just watching someone walking a couple of meters above ground. I started trekking and climbing to overcome my fear, but, to be honest, you never get over it completely. So until now, I’ve avoided skydiving, bungee jumping and paragliding. But the series was about challenging ourselves, so I decided to give it my all in the final episode.

To anyone even slightly interested in the outdoors, yet afraid you won’t be good at it, I just want to say getting out there and challenging yourself while having fun is what outdoor adventures are all about. v

“Getting Dirty in Japan” is currently available on Amazon Prime Video in Japan and on many other streaming services around the world. The team is currently planning their second season so reach out if you have some ideas for outdoor adventures you’d like Janni to try. Find out where it is currently available in your region and what’s planned for Season Two at en.tokyocowboys.com/close.

Mt. Fuji

THE PATH LESS TRAVELED

BY QUINLAN FARIS

If you’re thinking about climbing Mt. Fuji this summer, you’re far from alone. Fuji-san is the most climbed mountain in the world—more than 300,000 people make the ascent each year—the vast majority during the official hiking season from early July to early September. Trails are packed and you’ll seldom experience a moment of quiet amidst this vast queue of humanity slowly snaking their away up Japan’s tallest mountain. If, however, you are in good shape, or are able to put in a couple months of training in advance, there is a way to avoid the traffic for a more peaceful Mt. Fuji experience during the off-season.

Many people are under the mistaken impression that Mt. Fuji can only be hiked when the trails are officially “open.” This is simply not the case. The Japanese government has released clear guidelines (in English as well as Japanese) for hiking during the off-season. There are three main rules: be prepared, submit a climbing plan and bring your own portable toilet.

Being prepared is perhaps subjective, but it is intended to include physical fitness, sufficient skills and proper gear. The climbing plan is more concrete. There’s a downloadable Excel document that you are required to fill out, print and fax or mail to the local police department a week prior to your hike. This is Japan, so of course it’s Excel—and of course you can’t e-mail it, but rather fax or send it by snail mail, a post office or a convenience store should be able to help.

Finally, the portable toilet requirement may seem the most onerous, and perhaps it is. But, keep in mind that 30 years ago, prior to the installation of the current ecofriendly toilets, the human waste from the public bathrooms was discharged directly onto the rock, creating a horrific situation. There has been a concerted effort to clean up garbage, reduce littering and keep this sacred mountain clean. Since all the huts and bathrooms are closed during the off-season, it makes sense to require hikers to carry back down anything and everything they bring with them.

With these rules in mind, the safest and easiest way to experience Mt. Fuji without the crowds is by hiring a guide and going with a small group. There are a number of outfits offering guided ascents of Fuji in the off-season. In May, I guided five groups up Mt. Fuji over an eight-day period. The groups were all non-Japanese hikers that had been pre-screened for fitness by Kanto Adventures, the company that I guide with. During these hikes, we provide training on the proper use of an ice axe, how to walk with crampons, and even—during the right conditions—how to use a “butt-sled” to zip down some of the snowy terrain near the summit of the volcano. Sledding down Mt. Fuji, using an ice-axe to brake, is something to experience!

There are a number of other Japanese hikers up on the mountain during the off-season, but nothing even remotely approaching the crowds you’ll find in July and August. There’s a friendly camaraderie among the hikers you meet in the preseason. We always greet each other, and often even stop to chat for a few minutes.

In the pre-season you also have a pretty good chance of meeting “Mr. Fuji” (his real name is Yoshinobu Jitsukawa)—a 79-yearold local man that has hiked Mt. Fuji more than 2,180 times! He’s very friendly and always eager to take photos with other hikers for his Twitter feed. Don’t be fooled by his age, he is a world-class mountaineer that has climbed six of the seven highest mountains in each of the seven continents.

In his younger days, he often hiked Mt. Fuji twice a day! Jitsukawa isn’t the only legend you may chance upon during your hike; there are two other local men that have more than 1,000 summits of Fuji under their belt. And given their smiles and friendly demeanor, one might suspect that each summit makes them happier.

During the normal hiking season, most people spend the night up on Mt. Fuji in order to watch the sunrise from the summit. Because all of the lodges are closed and the weather conditions can be dangerous in the offseason, that isn’t possible. Hikes start early in the morning, and are finished by late afternoon. That is perhaps the

one disadvantage. But weather is fickle on mountains all year round, so even if you did brave the crowds for a normal hike, there’s no guarantee that you wouldn’t have a solitary cloud sitting on top of the mountain, blocking all visibility despite the forecast (yes, this has happened to me).

My most memorable hike up Mt. Fuji this year was guiding a blind man. While legally blind, he has about 5% to 10% of normal vision. Using his white cane, a hiking pole, and my narration of the terrain in front of him, he attempted the hike. We made it up to the 8th Station (3,500 meters). Our pace wasn’t fast enough to be able to summit and get down before dark, so we turned around there, but it was inspirational all the same. He’s determined to do more

WEB CONNECTION

MT. Fuji Off-Season Rules: fujisan223.com/docs/guideline_en.pdf

Kanto Adventures: kantoadventures.com/mt-fuji-snow-climbs

Go North: gonorth.jp

Go North YouTube Channel: youtube.com/c/GoNorthJapan

physical training to increase his pace and try again next year.

People often remind me of the famous Japanese saying, “A wise man climbs Mt. Fuji once. Only a fool climbs it twice.” Certainly it’s true that most hikers just go up for bragging rights, never considering doing it again. Others point out that from the 5th Station where you start, up to the summit, there is no plant or animal life, no change in terrain, just gravel and rocks all the way up. They’re not wrong, but there is something about the diversity of hikers you meet along the way and, for me, helping some fulfill one of their dreams. The view from the summit isn’t bad either. v

Weaving Stories

with Maota

BY RIE MIYOSHI

In a world where factories push for bigger, faster production, Alisa Ota-Tietboehl and Masaaki Ota are pushing back. In 2020 this designer, power couple launched Maota, a small-scale clothing line working with local craftsmen in the countryside of Aichi and Gifu prefectures. While their focus is on small, local and “slow” fashion, they are moving fast toward some big goals.

Sustainability, both environmentally and economically, is at the core of Maota’s production. They oversee their process from yarn to finish. While the clothing is what drives the brand, Alisa stresses the importance of storytelling to let consumers know the stories behind the craftsmen and the art it takes to create textiles using natural products. We talked with her about Maota, her sustainable lifestyle and preserving Japanese textile making and traditional craftsmanship.

Were you always interested in sustainability?

Since I was partially raised in the countryside in Germany, and my parents being from the hippie era, I grew up with sustainability in mind. My mother makes a lot of cosmetics, creams

and food from scratch. In Germany, we had a vegetable garden and a greenhouse and we collected rainwater for watering our plants. We were always taught to be mindful of water and my mom is the queen of reusing everything! My parents' generation also bought fashion as an investment, so my mom still owns pieces from 30 to 40 years ago that are still in good condition. I now wear them.

Why did you and your husband decide to start Maota?

We both come from the creative world. I studied graphic and communication design and had been working in this field for more than a decade. Fashion was something I

always loved, but, to be honest, I never bought sustainably. With trends and new items coming out every season, it’s easy to not care about the fashion and textile industry. After the infamous factory collapse in Bangladesh in 2013, a lot of consumers became more aware of how clothes were made.

I actually grew up in Bangladesh for the first five years of my life, so this news about the factory collapse impacted me as I only have fond memories of Bangladesh. After meeting my husband in Japan and getting to know in depth about the production side of fashion, I realized there is potential and opportunity. He also opened my eyes to the creation side of apparel.

My husband, Masaaki, is a pattern maker and apparel designer with more than twenty years of experience in apparel and textiles. After working for global corporations, where we saw first hand the struggle and challenges of sustainability, we wanted to utilize our experiences and connections. He’s more of a product-focused person, where the product speaks for itself, while I am interested in telling the stories of the craftsmen. So we combined our passion, experiences and optimism and created Maota.

What does Maota mean?

The brand name is split into two words: ma and ota. In Japanese, the first word ma ( 間 ) means space, time or things in between— including the beauty in white space and the idea of relation. Ma is important for creation, the relationships between all elements such as yarn, dye, weaving and patterns as well as relationships with people like craftsmen.

Ota is actually our surname. We put these two words together and these five letters together visually looked good.

What is sustainable and eco-friendly fashion to you?

We define sustainability and eco-friendliness as keeping the production close to home and to each other. All of the factories and mills we work with are close to each other and to us, making frequent visits possible. We work closely with craftsmen to not just communicate, but to be part of the creative process.

Another element that is very important to us is “sustainability of craftsmanship,” meaning we strive to keep the Japanese craft of creating textiles alive. Our garments are carefully made from yarn to finish so they last a long time. We also only produce what is ordered, in order to reduce wastage.

Could you share your process on your clothing production?

We are very fortunate to be working with craftsmen, who are skilled and have decades of experience. We start by making yarn with a yarn factory in Aichi Prefecture. These are high quality yarns serving as the base to unique textures, shapes and colors. After the yarn is finished, the yarn is sent to a weaving mill also in Aichi and made into fabric.

We are able to decide the weave strength and texture of each fabric. Some of the fabric we use is either dyed after being made into fabric or we also have yarn-dyed fabric, meaning that each yarn is carefully dyed and then woven into fabric.

Our cords for our pants and shorts are also made in nearby Gifu. We received 20-yearold supima cotton left-over yarn that was supposed to be thrown away and made them into cords. Our label is not a printed label, but instead we use the leftover bits of yarn that are usually thrown away while weaving. We also only produce what is ordered to reduce overproduction.

Usually in the fashion industry it is common to give very low pay to craftsmen and makers. High fashion brands mark up products 10~20 times to maximize profit. To be honest, our products are expensive, but only because they are carefully made and produced in small quantities. We don’t increase the price 10-20 times on our garments, but we want to be fair to the craftsmen we work with.

What are some of the products you use?

The fibers of our fabric like hemp, linen, cotton and wool are imported, but after that everything is made in Japan. Local ingredients would be the washi paper we use from Mino, Gifu for our jacket patches. We dye them with natural plant products like kakishibu

(persimmons) and aizome (indigo). Washi paper is made from a type of mulberry, a plant native to Mino. Because of the high quality of paper, it is used in traditional crafts such as lanterns, umbrellas and fans, but it’s also really durable so we experimented with it in clothing.

How has Maota been received?

Most of our customers are creatives themselves: artists, textile designers or people working in apparel. We recently started selling outside of Japan at a select shop in Hong Kong. It’s great seeing people who love Japanese fashion and craftsmanship finding the value in our products and process. We’re open about showing our production process which impresses people and raises awareness of how much work is put into a single garment.

What are your plans for Maota?

We are currently working on the next collection with some repeats. We just finished new textiles and Masa is starting to design new items. We will visit Aichi and Gifu soon to discuss new ideas, and photograph and film the process again too. We are also working on a new surprise collaboration we’ll announce when it’s ready. v

Maota will be having a pop-up store Sept. 14-19 (closed Wednesday) at Lagom Miyota in Miyota, Nagano. Learn more about Maota and watch the stories behind the craft at maotajp. com.

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