FindinginFreshFukushima
BY BILL ROSS
“Please don’t put up English signs!” the young American couple pleaded with me. We were enjoying some drinks after a backcountry trip together in Myoko. It was fifteen years ago and they had just been to Niseko and Hakuba and said they preferred the more Japanese experience here.
Having been to Niseko and Hakuba several times since then, I know what they meant. The snow can be great, and a few niches of Japan remain, but foreign investment is everywhere, with lots of generic glass and steel buildings and condos that could be at any international ski resort anywhere in the world.
Developers are now touting plans to invest US$12 billion (or was that 20 billion?) into Myoko with quotes in newspapers claiming it will be “the next Aspen” (or was it Whistler?). The numbers and the story changes so we’ll have
“Japanese-ness” is the big question.
Without question, however, is that many return visitors—like our backcountry couple—and some fresh faces, are looking for ski towns sans the hords of international tourists, where you can still struggle with Japanese menus.
The Aizu-Wakamatsu area of Fukushima is, thankfully, one of these hidden gems. “We don’t speak English well, but we’ll give you a real Japanese experience,” says one tourist brochure I found. “We loved how we were away from the typical popular ski destinations of Japan with too many Australians, and we were pretty much alone among the Japanese,” added a testimonial from a recent Australian visitor.
Surprisingly, Aizu Wakamatsu is easier to get to than the previously mentioned resorts. It is just ninety minutes by Shinkansen from Tokyo, then another 30 minutes to one hour by bus or train, depending on the resort. It’s not like the area is underdeveloped, either. There are several major resorts in the region plus many smaller one. Locals will be there on weekends but weekdays are still pretty quiet. While the snow isn’t as heavy—in weight and quantity—as resorts on the Japan Sea side, it is light and there’s plenty of it.
Perhaps one reason people have looked past this area is the aftermath of the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. Fukushima as a whole got linked with the disaster at the nuclear plant and the radiation leaks along the coastline. I went to the Aizu Wakamatsu area with Outdoor Japan for a piece back in 2014 where the locals reminded me that this was the area people evacuated to because it was safe then, and it certainly is now.
Outside of skiing, there is a rich history with images of samurai all over the region. Aizu was the center of the last great battle to determine the direction of Japan at the end of the feudal period. Almost no one has heard of the Boshin War, yet they have heard of The Last Samurai, which was based on that conflict between the Tokugawa shogunate (including the samurai order) and the ascending imperial powers around the Meiji emperor. The samurai of Aizu were the area is full of historic sites, starting with the imposing, 400-year-old Tsurugajo Castle.
It is scenic, with several of the ski areas located around Mt. Bandai, a beautiful mountain that looks rounded and soft in one direction, rugged and jagged on the other where an 1888 steam explosion ripped the peak apart. Below are the blue waters of Lake Inawashiro, the fourthlargest lake in Japan, a beautiful sight often dotted with white specks, migrating Siberian swans who winter here.
And the skiing is exceptional. “We didn’t know what to expect, because we hadn’t heard about Aizu, to be honest, but it was great,” says pro skier and videographer Mattias Evangelista. Along with his brother, pro skier Micah, the Evangelistas were invited to visit the area prior to the pandemic, and given fairly free reign to record what they found.
“Right away we met some great local people who took us out into the backcountry at Nekoma, just a short drive from where we were staying near the lake,” Mattias says. “The terrain was really fun. The forests are thick! There were more trees than we found on the Japan Sea side, but we still found really fun lines and spaces where we could do jumps, shoot good shots with the locals cruising around—it was really good.”
The brothers also enjoyed the local culture. “What really struck me was the local love for the sport,” Mattias says. “Nekoma has a relatively small terrain park—maybe it’s big for Japan—but it was packed all day every day and the stoke was high! It was a blast riding the lifts with the locals and feeling their energy.”
They discovered not only the samurai spirit here, taking in a samurai training session for local children, but also experienced the resilience of the people after the destruction of the earthquake and tsunami.
“The local pride was truly remarkable,” Mattias says. “The weight of their experience with the tsunami is still heavy, but they have a love for their homeland unlike anything I’ve seen. After the disasters the locals could have left to live elsewhere in the country, but they chose to stay and rebuild which is a true testament to their human spirit.”
One more reason to experience a unique and still-not-overrun part of snowy Japan!
AIZU RESORTS
In addition to the three main Aizu resorts listed here, there are 15 other smaller resorts in the region to explore that are even more likely to provide an uncrowded, Japanese experience.
Hoshino Resort Nekoma Mountain
This is a big area, combining the former Alts Bandai and Nekoma ski areas, with 33 courses and thirteen lifts spread out over the north and south sides of Mt. Nekomagatake. The area provides very different views and snow conditions, with light powder on the north-facing slopes. Web: nekoma.co.jp
Grandeco Snow Resort
Located in the Urabandai section of Aizu, and known for deep powder snow, the base of Grandeco is above 1,000 meters, helping ensure the quality of the snow, while the lifts are all hooded to keep skiers warm on the way up. Ungroomed runs are available.
Web: resort.en-hotel.com/grandeco/ snow/ja/
Inawashiro Ski Resort
As the name implies, this ski area has great views of Lake Inawashiro, as well as Mt. Bandai. Lots of wide open spaces make this a good choice for beginners and intermediates, while there are challenging runs up high that often provide powder conditions.
Web: inawashiro-ski.com
Getting to Aizu
For most people, the train is the smart way to travel in snow country. Take the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Koriyama Station (about 90 minutes). Then transfer to the Banetsu West Line to Inawashiro Station (about 45 minutes). Most hotels and resorts provide shuttle buses from the station (be sure to check ahead with your lodgings). If you are experienced driving in snow country, renting a car can be convenient, but make sure you have snow tires and 4WD. If not, you are asking for trouble.
Ski and snowboarding gear can be a pain to handle on trains, so another good option is a direct bus from Tokyo Station to several destinations around the Inawashiro area. You can also takyubin (the convenient courier service) from the airport or from hotels in Japan to your ski lodging.
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Shocked Straight by Slides
BY BILL ROSS
Ihave to admit, I’m not entirely crazy about the, “He died doing what he loved,” narrative. If I was out in my kayak and a whale decided to breach on top of me, well, that would be a good way to go. No screw up on my part, it’s bound to happen sometime, so might as well go out in style. And suddenly.
I had friend who was a bit older, but in good shape and medically cleared, so he went out spring ski climbing. He simply keeled over and died due to an undiagnosed problem. It was sad, but, again, it wasn’t because of a lack of care or preparation on his part. It was tough for the people with him, and we all grieved, but there was the feeling that the inevitable happened and it was just as well it happened out there in the mountains he loved.
Where I’m not comfortable with the dying in the line of passion thing is in times where it is avoidable, like what I fear is coming this winter season.
As one of the old guys in our local search and rescue organization, if an accident occurs, I’m less likely to be out on the hill and more likely to be coordinating with police and our staff, or following up to collect rescue fees afterwards.
Among last season’s accidents we had two incidents involving broken femurs, pretty
scary, painful and possibly life-threatening situations. The post-accident response is often similar to the cheerful Canadian we rescued. He gratefully thanked us for the help and received support from his friends to raise funds for his Search and Rescue (SAR) fees, which are needed for us to be ready to go.
After two seasons of low snow, it’s predicted we’ll get a lot of snow this season, due to La Niña. The significant rainfall over summer, the position of praying mantis egg masses on plants and the early attempts of stink bugs to find winter hibernation inside houses all point to a deep winter. (All except the first are actual indications the locals examine to determine whether big drifts are coming). Hotels and lodges will be full of powder-frothing guests and people will, unfortunately, likely die in avalanches.
Killer avalanches can move as fast as a Shinkansen and involve thousands of tons of snow transforming from big slabs into a fastflowing, almost liquid torrent with a snowladen air blast leading the way. These can destroy forests. You don’t have a chance. The sad thing is, dying in an avalanche is almost entirely avoidable.
In the four fatalities we’ve had here in Myoko in the last decade or so, the signs were all there that it was a day not to go out in the backcountry. High winds and heavy snow loaded up the slopes all night—two of
over in basic training sessions.
In two separate cases involving people I knew, large slab avalanches were set off, in which a whole layer of snow breaks away and hurtles down the mountain at shocking speeds. Another man was swept away by loose snow into a valley, where he ended up more than two meters under the surface. He didn’t have any avalanche gear on him, so he was discovered by a line of searchers working with probes along the most probable spot. The last was a guy who decided to go down an extremely steep slope covered with avalanche barriers in the middle of a huge
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snowstorm, leaving his avalanche beacon in his car. He wasn’t found until spring.
What they all needed to do was stop and say, “not today.” That can be the hardest thing to do. There’s usually peer pressure to keep going, the “don’t wimp out” syndrome. They could have simply chosen a better place to go, perhaps a low-angle run through trees following a gentle ridgeline. Or they could have just stayed on the slopes and honed their technique a bit.
I’m spoiled, I know, because I can always say, “tomorrow is fine.” There’s no pressure to go out and conquer the mountain today. Too many of the people heading into the backcountry can’t simply leave the work stresses behind and enjoy what nature brings them. Too much testosterone can be an issue; a lot more men die in avalanches than women.
There are even people who, after seeing ski videos, want to try and duplicate the hero scenes where a pro outruns a slide. Former pro skier K.C. Deane was skiing a narrow spine when he set off a slide, and was able to escape. I wrote him to say I was glad he was OK. He cut. Somebody will try and do the same thing.”
The thing with avalanches is that the aftershocks reverberate long after the snow has settled. There’s the reality of digging the victim out—you’ve got just minutes to get the person out, if trauma hasn’t already taken them, so you can’t wait for help. There’s lingering guilt for survivors. There are police interrogations that go for hours, identification of bodies, dealing with embassies and airlines. Often you have to deal with another group that actually set off the avalanche that killed someone else. I know, because I’ve experienced and helped others through all these scenarios.
A few years ago, there was an accident in which some friends, a photographer and two
pro skiers, went out and skied a gentle line on a ridgeline in the trees twice. While preparing to leave the area in what looked like a safe spot, they were caught in an avalanche set off by another group who chose a much riskier line. One friend was buried two meters down for nearly twenty minutes, defying the statistics and
meters, buried and killed. A year afterwards, my friend, who had been buried, announced he the experience had been so shocking, such a major change for him that he literally felt his old life ended with the accident.
It takes a toll and, I admit, I’m tired. But I hope to help others avoid getting caught in almost entirely avoidable situations. Get local information; know what the weather has done over the past few weeks before ever going up on the hill to dig a test pit. Leave the pressure to achieve at the office and come enjoy the laidback, Japanese mountain life tradition. A little study goes a long way—as long as it gets applied when powder fever sets in.
Bill Ross is a Myoko-based backcountry guide, Canadian certified avalanche forecaster and BCA advisory guide. He teaches snow safety at Dancing Snow (dancingsnow.com) in Myoko. He is also a founding member of Myoko’s search and rescue organization and has lived in Myoko for nearly 30 years.
HOKKAIDO
The general rule with skiing is, the farther north you go, the better the snow. Well, you can’t go any farther north in Japan than Hokkaido, and the area rightfully creates the biggest buzz for people in search of deep powder. The reason for this is simple: Hokkaido consistently gets great snow conditions, and Niseko in particular is recognized as a world-class ski resort, rivaling the long-established ski areas in Europe and North America. However, anyone thinking Hokkaido is a one-trick pony will be pleasantly surprised to find there are some great ski areas all over Japan’s north island.
NISEKO
Niseko gets a lot of attention, and rightfully so. It is the most international ski resort in Japan and consistently gets some of the heaviest snowfall in the world. The mountain, Mt. Annupuri (which, in Ainu, means White Mountain), is home to three ski resorts: Niseko Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village (formerly Niseko Higashiyama) and Niseko Annupuri.
Collectively they form Niseko United and share a common lift pass. The Hanazono area of Niseko Grand Hirafu is independently managed, and one of the more progressive areas on the mountain, featuring three terrain parks and the only FIS Half Pipe in Japan, which is well maintained throughout the season, and a bag jump, where you can safely practice your freestyle tricks.
Niseko Village (which is a 10-minute drive from the main Hirafu Village area) also has nice facilities and a lot of activities. Niseko Annupuri keeps the that can be less crowded. Other nearby resorts are Niseko Moiwa and Niseko Weiss. The lifts are no longer running at Weiss, but cat tours service the area. While a few other resorts may challenge Niseko’s claim to the best powder in Japan, there is no doubt Niseko has the best, and widest, selection of restaurants and accommodations in Japan.
The infrastructure is well organized, with efficient bus service to/from Sapporo and New Chitose Airport and a shuttle bus that takes visitors to the various resorts. On one of those rare midseason clear days, the view of Mt. Yotei from the slopes is the quintessential image of skiing in Japan.
NISEKO ANNUPURI
NISEKO VILLAGE
- 19:30) (0136) 44-2211 niseko-village.com
NISEKO GRAND HIRAFU
(0136) 22-0109 grand-hirafu.jp
Dec. 14 - Apr. 6 8:30 - 16:30 (16:30 - 19:00)
1
* Includes Hanazono
* Includes Grand Hirafu Park
ACCESS By Train: 120 minutes from Sapporo Station to Kutchan Station By Car: 130 minutes from Sapporo City and 130 minutes from New Chitose Airport
NISEKO HANAZONO RESORT
hanazononiseko.com
- 16:30 (16:30 - 19:00)
(0136) 46-3111 rusutsu.com
Dec. 21 - Mar. 30 9:00 - 20:00 (16:00-20:00)
Rusutsu is more than a good day trip from Niseko. It’s an excellent all-round mountain with 37 courses over three mountains: Mt. Isola, East Mountain and West Mountain. Powder lovers will love the big valleys full of deep tree runs funneling down to the modern, efficient lifts, and everyone will enjoy the views of the back side of Mt. Yotei and the quieter alternative to bustling Niseko. The skiin/ski-out Rusutsu Resort Hotel is the most convenient place to stay with hot springs, day
and a variety of great activities.
KIRORO SNOW WORLD
(0135) 34-7111 kiroro.co.jp
Nov. 30 - May 6 9:00 - 19:00 (16:30 - 19:30)
SAPPORO KOKUSAI
Kiroro is a relatively new (opened in 1992) ski resort just 30 kilometers west of Sapporo. The resort has great facilities, some amazing views of the Japan Sea and the natural surroundings and gets a lot of snow from mid-December until early May. Kiroro makes up for its lack of challenging terrain by offering a few powder pockets and plenty of gentle slopes for beginners and children. The "Powder Zone" opens middle of January to middle of March. Kiroro also has one of the best base lodges in Japan, complete with a hot spring to soak away the day’s bumps and bruises and an adjacent hotel with good restaurants.
0115) 98-4511 sapporo-kokusai.jp
Nov. 22 - May 12 9:00 - 17:00
If you ski or snowboard, Sapporo is hard to beat. Residents can get a few quick runs just 15 minutes from downtown at Sapporo Bankei. However, many families make the one-hour drive out to “Kokusai,” which offers more choices for beginners and intermediate skiers and has a nice park. Although this is a day-trip resort, it does attract a spattering of international guests who find it hard to stay in the city when snow is falling. Most will be pleasantly surprised as this coastal resort gets its fair share of powder days and offers some varied, albeit fairly short, runs and a small, but decent park. Night skiing is not available.
(0116) 82-6000 sapporo-teine.com/snow/lang/en
Dec. 20 - May 6 9:00 - 21:00 (16:00 - 21:00)
If someone mentions the Winter Olympics in Japan, you’ll undoubtedly think of the 1998 Nagano Olympics. Yet 26 years earlier, Sapporo hosted its own Winter Games at a resort just 30 minutes from downtown Sapporo. Yet, what might be most surprising is this resort, Sapporo Teine, offers some steep and deep powder fun for intermediate and advanced riders. The offpiste terrain is up in the Teine Highland area, accessible without having to duck ropes or elude the patrol. The Teine Olympia is a kinder, gentler area, which has a lively park scene. Night skiing available until 9 p.m.
(0156) 64-4121 sahoro.co.jp
Dec. 2 - Apr. 6 9:00 - 18:00 (15:00 -18:00)
Sahoro is a well-run resort that caters to families. There are 17 nicely groomed courses, some “semi-backcountry” and a terrain park. Like Tomamu, it’s a place where you can have fun whether you are a skier or not, with lots of activities. Two all-inclusive hotels service Sahoro Resort: The Sahoro Resort Hotel, an attractive luxury hotel, and the Club Med Sahoro. English ski lessons are available and lots of organized fun for the whole family. Sahoro is not for the budget traveler, but makes for a great family getaway.
By Train: 94 minutes from New Chitose Airport to Shintoku Station By Car: 200 min. from Sapporo to Tomamu I.C.
HOSHINO RESORTS TOMAMU
(0167) 58-1111 snowtomamu.jp
Dec. 1 - Apr. 1 9:00 - 18:00 (16:00-18:00)
Tomamu has excellent facilities and a beautiful location. Many courses are suited for beginners, yet a challenging double black diamond course and cat-ski tours will challenge advanced riders. Tomamu is a destination in itself with a plethora of ways to entertain the whole family. There’s a good selection of restaurants, an indoor wave pool, Kids Park, Ice Village and a variety of spa and relaxation options. The resort has also expanded the Family Adventure area and connected the two mountains.
By Train: 90 minutes from New Chitose Airport to Tomamu Station By Car: 100 minutes from New Chitose Airport
FURANO RESORT
(0167) 22-1111 princehotels.co.jp/newfurano
Nov. 30 - May 6 8:30 - 19:30 (16:30 -19:30)
Bus or car
Central Hokkaido's Furano Resort is known for blue skies, yet manages nearly nine meters of snow each year. There are two sides to the mountain, serviced by a 101-person cable car (Japan’s fastest). The nearby Tokachi Range is a popular backcountry playground. The ski-in/ ski-out New Furano Prince Hotel has a new hot springs facility. Join the Host Program and get a tour from a local or a bus tour from January to March to Lake Shikarebetsu’s ice village and bathe in ice bathhouses or enjoy a drink at the ice bar built on the frozen lake.
is recommended: 60 minutes from Asahikawa
LINKS
(0166) 72-2311 kamui-skilinks.com
Mid of Dec. - Late Mar. 9:00 - 17:00
Kamui Ski Links is a resort run “by skiers, for skiers.” Those who enjoy powder and tree skiing will understand why this little resort 20 kilometers outside of Asahikawa has so many admirers. Management has no restrictions on tree skiing and has even left several courses in which to play ungroomed. On top of that, the
in some short lines for the lifts on weekends, but on weekdays it is nothing but fresh lines down the hill. Be sure to warm up by the of the gondola.
Bus or car access is recommended: About 40 minutes from downtown
TOHOKU
The Tohoku Region represents about 35 percent of the area of Japan’s main island, Honshu. Running north-south through the center of Tohoku are the Ou Mountains, ranging between 1,500-2,000 meters. When the famous poet, Matsuo Basho, wrote The Narrow Road to the Deep North (Oku no Hosomichi), these were the mountains toward which he walked. Today they are full of some of Japan’s least crowded ski resorts. Tohoku may seem far away, but it’s only two-to-four hours by bullet train
HAKKODA ROPEWAY
(017) 738-0343 hakkoda-ropeway.jp Mid-Nov. - end of Feb. 9:00 - 15:20
The eight peaks of Hakkoda attract Japan's most devoted powder lovers. It is basically backcountry with a 100-person gondola that takes 10 minutes to the top with four trips every hour. Once you get off, you can choose from "Direct" or "Forest" trails. You won't get many blue bird days here, and happen often. So if you are a Hakkoda newbie and want to explore the terrain, it's best to grab a local guide. Hakkoda Sansou, across the parking lot from the gondola, is the closest accommodation. Up the road, Sukayu Onsen is a mixed hot spring with a 300-year history and a 1,000-person bath.
APPI is a giant resort (45.1 kilometers of trails) with a long season (thanks to the many north-facing slopes) plus some great facilities (thanks to bubble era spending). Unlike many resorts in Japan that have relatively short runs, the average course length at APPI is 2,100m; the longest 5,500m. It’s possible to do Appi as a long day-trip from Tokyo but, with two ski-in/ski-out hotels and an annex hotel, which collectively sleep 4,100 guests, why not stay and soak away sore muscles at one of the two natural hot springs after a day on the mountain. Families will appreciate the Kids Park.
HACHIMANTAI RESORT
(0195) 78-4111 www.hachimantai.co.jp Dec. 21 - Mar. 23
It’s easy to get confused because there are two Iwate Hachimantai resorts and another in Akita. Iwate’s Hachimantai Resort, is a great family ski destination. Hachimantai Resort covers two main areas, Panorama ski area and the Shimokura ski area. Both are well sheltered from the weather. There are high-speed lifts and mainly beginner or intermediate courses.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: 50 minutes from Morioka Station to APPI. By Car: 15 minutes from Matsuo-Hachimantai I.C. or
(0187) 46-2011 tazawako-ski.com Dec. 16 - Mar. 30 9:00
When it snows in Tazawako, and it usually does, there is deep powder and a good variety of courses to enjoy. On the rare clear day, enjoy a stunning view of Lake Tazawa below. Tazawako is a popular ski resort for Tohoku locals, but the lines are still relatively short. The lifts run directly from the Tazawako Onsen hotel area. The selection of runs should keep everyone happy; on one side is a beginner and intermediate area, and on the other a more challenging advanced course. Powder lovers won’t want to miss the Komagatake Panoramic Cat Tour.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Tazawako Station (3 hours), then 30 minutes by bus to the ski resort
(0224) 34-4001 eboshi.co.jp
Dec. 12 - Mar. 30 9:00 - 22:00 (16:00 - 22:00)
Miyagi's Eboshi Resort is on the other side of the mountain from the more famous Yamagata Zao Onsen Ski Resort. It's much quieter, the lift lines are shorter on this side of the track, and the views are fantastic. Although it's a decent sized resort with well laid-out courses and a variety of ways to descend the mountain, it is more geared for beginners or advanced riders, as there is not a lot of challenging terrain. Powder hounds will be salivating on some of the areas outside the lines.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shoroishi-Zao Station (1 hour, 54 minutes) then about an hour to the ski resort
ZAO ONSEN SKI RESORT
(023) 694-9617 zao-ski.or.jp
Dec. 14 - May 6 8:30 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)
Ski resorts each have their own personalities; it is one of the joys of exploring new resort areas. Zao Onsen has a big bubbling personality. The town is literally bubbling with hot springs, and the ski resort offers a unique ski experience—skiing among the famous Zao Snow Monsters (juhyo). The resort is big with four gondolas, 32 lifts and a 10K downhill course. Skiers will enjoy the layout more than snowboarders (too much traversing), but the highlight, undoubtedly, is riding among these huge creatures formed of ice and wind. The peak season is February, and the juhyo illumination is spectacular.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: 2 1/2 hours by bullet train from Tokyo to Yamagata Station, then 40 minutes by bus to Zao Onsen
Zao-machi, Miyagi
HOSHINO RESORTS NEKOMA MOUNTAIN SNOW PARK & RESORT
(0242) 74-5000 nekoma.co.jp
Nov. 30 - May 6 8:30-16:00 (17:30-21:00)
With 30K of rideable terrain, nearly 33 courses and progressive free-style parks, it is no surprise this resort is a favorite of many of the top park riders in Japan. The resort is the largest in southern Tohoku and was the home to the Asia Open. They have a Cat Ski area on the west side of the resort where visitors can enjoy some deep turns. Slide into Yama Cafe for a drink or relax in the hotel's great hot springs. The ALTS side is south facing so it’s bright and features some nice terrain for free riding, but powder lovers will want to head to north-facing Nekoma. The two sides are connected by a new lift.
ACCESS By Train: 90 minutes from Tokyo Station to Koriyama Station By Car: 75 minutes from Fukushima International Airport.
is Japan's Last Frontier—the true path less traveled. Hiking and specialized tours in North Japan.
GRANDECO SNOW RESORT
(0241) 32-2530 grandeco.com 17:00
Grandeco Snow Resort is a medium-sized resort with first-rate facilities, which include a gondola and express chairlifts and artificial snow-making capabilities to guarantee early and late-season riding. There is also a luxury hotel and SIA certified Snow Academy. Although the resort is best suited for beginners and intermediate riders, there are tree runs for advanced riders and a well maintained park. Gran Deco is one of the highest resorts in the area, which means good quality snow. The nearby Hotel Gran Deco has westernstyle rooms, an indoor and outdoor swimming pool (open in winter), Jacuzzis, saunas, hot spring baths, restaurants and bars.
ACCESS By Train: 45 minutes from Inawashiro Station via local bus. By Car: 35 minutes from Inawashiro Bandai Kogen I.C.
NAGANO
Nozawa Madarao
Nagano is the traditional center of the Japan snow scene, and at the heart of it is the Japan Alps. The
and biggest resorts in Japan, and boasts arguably the most breathtaking scenery. Within Nagano, the sheer volume of ski areas is due to the jagged spine of rugged natural beauty known as the Japan Alps slashing through the prefecture. This area is as much a Mecca for photographers as it is for skiers, with its many onsen, snow-swept valleys and bristling peaks. Backcountry fun here is limited only to your preparedness and daring. Hakuba, Shiga Kogen, Nozawa and the Iiyama areas are just the tip of the proverbial iceberg.
HAKUBA GORYU
(0261) 75-2101 hakubaescal.com/winter-en
Mid-Dec. - May 6 8:00 -16:50 (18:00 - 21:30)
Part of Hakuba Valley Resorts, Hakuba Goryu is one of the most scenic and pleasant places to ski. Soak up the view as the Japan Alps soar behind you, and then head down to Escal Plaza, one of the best base lodges in Japan. There is a ski/snowboard rental shop, a nice selection of restaurants and even a bath open until 9 p.m. daily. The Toomi Piste is open until 9:30 p.m. If you’re on a tight budget, there is a “resting room” where you can wait for the people (no reservations required). Serious skiers can challenge themselves on the Champions expert run. Hakuba Goryu also shares a common lift pass with Hakuba 47.
HAKUBA HAPPO-ONE
(0261) 72-3066 happo-one.jp
Mid-Dec. - May 6 8:00 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)
Happo is a huge resort that is heaven for skiers who enjoy well-groomed, long courses. There are many runs, good challenging terrain and a nice park and the Hakuba Banks Park opens on Feb. 1. Happo hosted the downhill races during the 1998 Olympics and, if you want to test your meddle, head to the top of the men’s downhill course. While advanced riders will love Happo, beginners may get frustrated with the many narrow paths leading down the mountain. If you need a break, there are plenty of restaurants to stop for a bite. Note the resort’s popularity means it can get crowded, especially on long weekends.
Hakuba Happo Hakuba 47
Hakuba CorHakuba Goryu
Norikura
Hakuba 47 is a relatively new resort (opened in 1990), and they’ve been trying to take some fresh, progressive steps to making a better resort experience. There are loads of activities and events, an extensive snow park with lots of jibs, kickers and things to launch off, and a great half pipe. The resort also has some excellent intermediate courses, a challenging mogul course and a shared ticket with Goryu, so no shortage of courses from which to choose. If you were wondering about the name, the goal of the resort is to offer a great mountain experience “4” seasons and “7” days a week.
Yakebitaiyama
Shiga Kogen Area
Hoppobundaira Higashitateyama
If the crowds at Happo are too much for you, head over to nearby Iwatake. The base of the resort looks up at Hakuba’s highest peaks for a spectacular view while you enjoy the slopes. The resort itself is surprisingly big, making it a great place to go to get away from the crowds and explore the 26 courses. Lift lines are relatively short by Hakuba standards, and you can often find some pockets of powder here after it has been tracked out at other resorts nearby.
HAKUBA CORTINA SKI RESORT
(0261) 82-2236 www.hgp.co.jp/cortina/ski
Dec. 14 - Mar. 30 8:30-17:00
If you are looking for a place to spend a quiet, romantic ski weekend in the Hakuba area, head over to Cortina. The massive Green Plaza Hotel with northern European architecture is impressive. If your ski partner is just starting out, the course right outside the door of the hotel is a gentle slope and great for beginners. Although most of the runs are in the beginner to intermediate range, there are some steep courses, and they have adopted a progressive approach to tree skiing and power areas in which guests are responsible for themselves if they get into trouble. The Hakuba Cortina Resort also offers a convenient shuttle from Nagano Station (one-way, 1,000 yen).
ACCESS By Train: From Shinjuku to Minami Otari: 4 hours (By Azusa) By Car: 90 minutes from Nagano I.C. to hotel
TSUGAIKE MOUNTAIN RESORT
(0261) 83-2515 tsugaike.gr.jp
Dec. 14 - May 6 8:00 - 16:30
While Tsugaike is actually located in Otari Village, it is just up the road from Hakuba and often considered a Hakuba Resort. It is one of the more underrated resorts considering it has the biggest mountain in the area, some huge bowls, the longest run (at 5,000 meters), a big gondola, terrain park and some interesting runs. There are good places to hike to get fresh turns and a fullfeatured snow park that caters to all levels. The Children’s Square is great for kids just starting out on the slopes. Most of Tsugaike’s runs are in the intermediate range, but there are a few expert areas as well.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1 hour, 45 minutes), then a shuttle to Hakuba Cortina (80 minutes)
MT. NORIKURA
(0263) 93-2645 brnorikura.jp
Dec. 21 - Mar. 30 8:45 - 16:30
The base of Mt. Norikura (not to be confused with the smaller Hakuba Norikura) starts at 1,500 meters, meaning the snow quality is excellent, and you’ll spend more time riding than in lift lines. It is a relatively small, local resort, yet the dedicated locals have created a progressive and challenging terrain park and good facilities for beginners to learn to ride. There is no ATM, so bring cash or your credit card and make sure to pack chains or have a 4WD, since Norikura is nestled deep in the Northern Alps. After a day on the mountain, don’t miss the great rotenburo at Yukemurikan.
ACCESS By Train: Super Azusa Express train from Shinjuku to Matsumoto (2 hours, 37 minutes. Transfer at Matsumoto, then on to Shin Shimashima (30 minutes)
If you include all 19 interlinked ski resorts, Shiga Kogen in northern Nagano is Japan’s largest ski resort area. Surrounded by 2,000-meter mountains, Shiga has good elevation and is a great place to get in some early or late season runs, as the season stretches from late November to early May. Shiga Kogen hosted the women’s downhill, slalom, the super giant slalom and both snowboarding events for the 1998 Nagano Olympic Winter Games.
With more than 80 accommodations scattered around the area, there is no shortage of places to stay, although it has retained an “old school” feel with most restaurants found inside hotels; some serving Shiga Kogen’s excellent microbrew. There are many onsen in the area to soak in after a day on the mountain, yet the most famous in the area is off-limits to humans. Jigokudani Yaen Koen is a sanctuary for resident snow monkeys that lounge in their own hot springs, while visitors snap away with their cameras.
Shiga Kogen has limited ATM access (ATM is available at the Shiga Kogen Post Office in the Hasuike area), so bring some cash.
Starting this year, a common ski lift pass will be available for Shiga Kogen Resort’s 13 ski areas which are part of the “Shiga Kogen Resort Chuo Area.” These resorts include Sun Valley, Maruike, Hasuike, Giant, Happo Bunahira, Higashi Tateyama,
Teragoya, Takamahara Mammoth, Nishi Tateyama, Tanne-no-mori Okojo, Ichinose Family, Ichinose Diamond and Ichinose Yama-no-kami. If you plan to try all the ski areas, you’ll need to give yourself at least a few days to explore the various terrain.
Okushiga Kogen is known as “Skiers Paradise” as it remains a skiers-only resort, (along with Kumanoyu), while Yakebitaiyama is a Prince Resort with excellent facilities. The Hoppo Bunadaira area is great for beginners and families with small children while Higashidateyama is best suited for advanced skiers, although there is a gentle woodland course as well. The resort hosted the men’s and women’s giant slalom in the 1998 Olympic Games, and it boasts an extremely challenging downhill course. The restaurant at the summit of Mt. Higashidate boasts incredible panoramic views and is the starting point to get to other ski areas such as Terakoya.
(0269) 34-2301 https://shigakogen.co.jp Dec. 14 - Mar. 31 8:30 - 16:30
YAKEBITAIYAMA
OKUSHIGA KOGEN SKI FIELD
(0269) 34-3117 princehotels.co.jp/ski/shiga/winter Dec. 21 - May 6 8:30 - 16:00 (18:00 - 20:00) (0269) 34-2225 en.okushiga.jp Dec. 14 - May 6 7:30 - 16:30
NOZAWA ONSEN
(0269) 85-3166 nozawaski.com
Nov. 30 - May 6 8:30 - 17:00 (16:30 - 20:00)
If you’re looking for the quintessential Japanese ski experience, Nozawa Onsen is hard to beat. This traditional hot spring village sits at the base of a great mountain (Mt. Kenashi, 1,650m). The resort is one of the oldest ski grounds in Japan, getting consistent snowfall. There are two gondolas and a large selection of courses to choose from. The town also features 30 hot springs scattered around the village (including 13 free baths in town) and the Dosojin Matsuri (Fire Festival) held on Jan. 15, which is a spectacle to behold.
ACCESS By Train: Tokyo Station to Nagano Station by Shinkansen (109 minutes), then Iiyama Line to Togari-Nozawa Onsen St. (60 minutes) and taxi or shuttle bus to Nozawa Onsen. By Car: 75 minutes from Nagano Station
MADARAO MOUNTAIN RESORT
(0269) 64-3214 madarao.jp 16:30
Located in northeastern Nagano just above Iiyama Town, Madarao Kogen features lifts and courses across a bowl-shaped terrain on Mt. Madarao (1,382 meters). The resort has a nice variety of courses, groomers, a tree run area, free ride park, wave courses and kids park. They claim 60 percent of the course is ungroomed so, if you like riding powder, there should be plenty in which to play. There is also a joint ticket available for Tangram Ski Circus, a small, pretty resort. Backcountry tours can be arranged through the resort.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Iiyama Station (130 minutes) then take a bus to Madarao Kogen Hotel (30 minutes)
TANGRAM MADARAO
(026) 258-3511 tangram.jp/eng
Dec. 21 - Mar. 30 8: 30 - 16: 30 (17:30 - 20:30)
Tangram Ski Circus sounds like a great place for kids—and it is. The ski-in/out Hotel Tangram sits right at the bottom of this family-friendly resort. Facilities include hot spring baths and a heated indoor swimming pool. The resort features 14 courses on the northwest side of Mt. Madarao, with well-groomed runs, great for mom and dad to get in some leg burners with the kids. The trees look tempting, but beware the ski patrol is vigilant here. However the resort is connected to Madarao Kogen, giving you 30 courses to explore if you get bored with the runs right outside your door.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagano City (1 hour, 28 minutes) then by bus to Tangram Madarao
TOGAKUSHI SKI FIELD
(026) 254-2106 togakusi.com Dec. 14 - Mar. 30 8:30 - 16:30
Togakushi is an interesting, medium-sized resort. The name “Togakushi” means “hidden door,” it derived from the Japanese myth and the resort is owned by Nagano City, yet it is still relatively unknown to people outside the area. The best way to describe Togakushi is pleasant. The conditions always seem to be pretty good, course is variegated and there are often great powder days. Best of all, it never seems to get as busy as the more popular Nagano resorts, and it has retained a very local feel. Togakushi Village is in itself an interesting place. It is famous for soba, and there are some beautiful shrines, temples and onsen
By Train and Bus: Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station (1
NIIGATA
One day in 1986, the good people of Joetsu, a coastal city in Niigata, were deluged by 232 centimeters of snow—in one day. That’s roughly enough to bury a one-story building. Although this sort of thing doesn’t happen every day, Niigata gets some of the heaviest snowfalls in Japan. The town of Yuzawa was where Yasunari Kawabata penned his awardwinning novel “Snow Country” (Yukiguni). It is also Niigata’s most popular of winter sports areas, due to the easy access from Tokyo (77 minutes) and the variety of ski resorts a snowball’s throw from the station. Just over the border from Nagano Prefecture, in the southeastern part of Niigata, the Myoko Kogen area is one of Japan’s best-kept secrets. This scenic, mountainous area stretches all the way to the Sea of Japan coast and features some great resorts in its own right.
Dec. 14 - Apr. 6 8:00 - 17:00 (16:00 - 20:30)
Mt. Naeba calls itself "The St. Moritz of the East" and is a popular choice for Kanto trendsetters wishing to get away for a convenient ski weekend. The crescent-shaped Prince Hotel cuts an imposing figure at the base of this classic ski-in/ski-out resort and features all the trappings you would expect from a Prince-managed resort hotel. Off the mountain, there are children’s services, shops and other amenities and, on the mountain, a terrain park, kids park, family snow park and more. Naeba is connected to Kagura, Tashiro, and Mitsumata ski areas via the "Dragondola," which travels 5.5 kilometers in just 20 minutes, so there are 55 trails explore if you have the time.
(0257) 88-9221 princehotels.com/en/ski/kagura Dec. 14 - Apr. 6 8:00 - 17:00
These three connecting ski areas form one big resort. If you count Naeba, the total rideable area is 303 hectares. From Naeba, you’ll be lifted above Lake Tashiro to wider and less crowded slopes and better snow quality, but the area closes at 4 p.m. and the lift line back to Naeba can be long, so beware. A better option is to access the Tashiro Ropeway on Route 17. You can then traverse across Tashiro in about 40 minutes to Kagura, a popular backcountry zone and a great option for early and late season skiing. The Mitsumata area has a small boarder's park, a few jumps and two good slopes for learning. Accessible by the Mitsumata Ropeway on Route 17.
ACCESS By Train: Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes) then take the local bus to Kagura Ski Resort (30 minutes)
GALA YUZAWA SNOW RESORT
(0257) 85-6543 gala.co.jp
Dec. 13 - May 6 8:00 - 16:30
If you want a quick, convenient day-trip from Tokyo, you can’t get any easier than GALA Yuzawa. The ski resort has its very own bullet train and train station that doubles as the ski be alone on the hill. However, get up to the mountain, get in a few runs with friends and be back in time to buy your favorite designer goods in Harajuku. The resort is geared toward recreation and families with kids, but it does connect to other resorts, so there are more options for serious skiers. And if you just want to have fun in the snow for a day with friends, you can’t beat the convenience.
ACCESS By Train: 71 minutes from Tokyo Station to GALA Yuzawa Station By Car: 5 minutes from Yuzawa I.C. (Kanetsu Expressway)
IWAPPARA
(025) 787-3211 iwa-ppara.com
Dec. 21 - Mar. 30 8:00 - 19:00 (Sat. 8:00 - 20:00)
Iwappara is one of the more popular resorts in the Yuzawa area. It is extremely convenient from the station (10 minutes) by shuttle bus, so it is quite possible to do a day trip from Tokyo. The main course is very wide open, making it a great place for beginners to practice their turns without fear of being run over by a speedy skier (or vice versa). The views from the top are nice, and the village area around the ski area has a nice selection of restaurants.
ACCESS By Train and Shuttle Bus: 77 minutes from Tokyo Station to Echigo Yuzawa Station then shuttle bus from Echigo Yuzawa Station (10 minutes)
NASPA SKI GARDEN
(025) 780-6888 naspa.co.jp/ski/
Dec. 20 - Mar. 31 8:30 - 17:00
NASPA is a relatively new ski resort (opened in 1992) whose claim to fame is being one of the last skiers-only resorts left in Japan. The ski hill is behind the deluxe New Otani Hotel. The resort definitely caters toward families who ski and want to stay in luxury. Guests can enjoy the excellent hot center and a selection of restaurants. Its location near the station makes for a quick, convenient ski weekend from Tokyo, if you want to get in a few turns (on skis) with the
ACCESS By Train and Free Shuttle Bus: Joetsu Shinkansen to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes) then free shuttle bus to NASPA Ski Garden (5 minutes)
JOETSU KOKUSAI SKI RESORT
(025) 782-1028 jkokusai.co.jp
Dec. 7 - Apr. 6 8:00 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)
One of the largest ski resorts in Japan, Joetsu Kokusai boasts four zones catering of skiers and snowboarders. There is a kids park right outside the hotel, rentals and ski school programs for beginners. Enjoy soaking in an onsen and dining on local cuisine after a day on the slopes. There are also free events held throughout the season.
ACCESS By Train: Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo to Echigo Yuzawa Station (77 minutes) then train to Joetsu Kokusai (12 minutes)
MORE MYOKO SNOW FUN
Dancing Snow is all about enjoying the fun of Myoko’s beautiful winter world. From snowshoe treks for everyone, to day tours to local peaks and special tours, we have something for everyone who wants a bit more from this snowy mountain. Groups are small for safety and fun. We provide BCA® snow safety lessons, backcountry gear sales and rentals.
MYOKO SUGINOHARA
(0255) 86-6211 princehotels.co.jp/ski/myoko
Dec. 21 - Mar. 23 8:30 16:30
AKAKURA ONSEN
Myoko Kogen is simply one of the naturally prettiest ski areas in Japan. Suginohara is part of Prince Hotels (although there is no hotel here), and the facilities are well maintained. The runs above the gondola are where advanced skiers and powder hounds will have the most fun. The resort has 17 trails, a terrain park, kids sledding area (ask about kids skiing free) and six onhill restaurants. Suginohara also boasts one of Japan’s longest top-to-bottom, an 8.5-kilometer thigh burner that will test anyone’s meddle if left for the last run of the day. The stunning view of Lake Nojiri below from the gondola makes it worth the trip alone.
(0255) 87-2125 akakura-ski.com Dec. 14 - Mar. 23 8:30 - 22:00 (17:00 - 22:00)
Akakura Ski Resort is located at the bottom of Mt. Myoko and is the largest resort in the Myoko Heights area. The resort has a nice variety of courses as well as powder stashes and some challenging courses on the old “Champions” side of the mountain. The town’s hot springs date back day on the mountain. The Akakura Resort & Spa sits majestically on the slopes. It’s a great place to stay if you want ski in/ski out luxury. The area averages about 13 meters of snow annually, so natural beauty. Akakura has a nice variety of courses, but the most challenging runs are on the old “Champions” side of the mountain.
SEKI ONSEN
Let us know what you’d like to do! We have all kinds of ways to have fun in this great outdoor area.
www.dancingsnow.com info@dancingsnow.com
(0255) 82-2316 Late Dec. - Early May 9:00 - 17:00 yokotourism.com/ski-resorts/seki-onsen-ski-resort/
Seki is the highest ski area in the Myoko Kogen area and, even though there are just two lifts, there is access to many powder runs. This is a locals mountain, and they check the weather reports and know when the storms will hit, sometimes dropping one or two meters of new snow overnight. It pays to get up early if you
runs, natural pipes and some good hits.
CHARMANT HIUCHI
(025) 568-2244 charmant-hiuchi.jp Dec. 20 - May 6 8:30 - 16:30
then 20 min. by taxi
Charmant is a locally owned and operated ski resort most of your friends do not know about but may wish they did. The resort is literally right on the Japan Sea (you can see it from the top lifts) and gets some of the heaviest snow dumps around. It is also a healthy drive from Tokyo (four hours), but is worth the trip if you enjoy short lift lines and uncrowded slopes. There are lots of ungroomed areas and advanced terrain including a 1,000-meter powder course. The proximity to the sea means there is some excellent seafood nearby as well, and you can ski straight through Golden Week.
ACCESS Car access is recommended: Train and bus service is inconvenient. From Tokyo
GIFU
As far as resorts in central Honshu go, Gifu gets much less attention than Nagano, Niigata and Gunma. Nonetheless there are a number of quality resorts in the region that primarily service the Nagoya and Kansai regions. Less than a couple hours from the main Gifu ski resorts is the Edo-style town of Takayama, known as “Little Kyoto.” Takayama’s master carpenters built some beautiful shrines and temples here at the base of the Japan Alps. Also in the region, along the border of Gifu and Toyama prefectures are the World Heritage villages of Shirakawa-go and Gokoyama, known for the thatched roof houses built in gassho-zukuri (praying hands) style. These A-frame farmhouses are constructed to withstand the heavy snowfall that blankets the region each year. If you are looking for good skiing and mixing in some great cultural experiences, Gifu is a great winter destination.
TAKASU SNOW PARK
(0575) 72-7000 www.takasu.gr.jp
Dec. 10 - Late Apr. 8:00 - 16:30
Takasu is well known to park riders. The resort has a large free ride park that includes kickers, rails, boxes and one of the biggest super pipes in Japan. There is also a 600-meter professional boarder cross course and a mogul course. The resort is the training grounds for many of Japan’s rising stars and has hosted a number of competitions including the FIS Snowboard World Cup. Aside from the amazing pipe and park, winter sports enthusiasts of all levels can enjoy the open-faced free ride terrain including a 4,800-meter trail, one of longest in western Japan, and several other 4,000-meter trails. There are even some backcountry tours through Dainichi Valley.
ACCESS By Bus: A bus leaves Nagoya at 8 a.m. stopping at both Takasu and Dynaland. The trip takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes
DYNALAND
(0575) 72-6636 www.dynaland.co.jp
Dec. 7 - Early Apr. 8:00 - 16:30
Dynaland is the largest of the Takasu ski resorts. There are 19 runs; the longest a 3,200-meter thigh burner. There is a shared ticket to neighboring Takasu Snow Park and two places on the mountain that connect the resorts. If you want to get out on
Mon-Saint is right in front of the resort, and there are 6 a.m. openings for first tracks on selected dates. The resort has featured a resident DJ who will take music requests, and you can do some good for Mother Nature while having a lunch break since the Dynaland Eco Project collects proceeds from resort restaurants to support a Gifu tree planting project. Night skiing runs until 11 p.m.
ACCESS By Bus: A bus leaves Nagoya at 8 a.m. stopping at both Takasu and Dynaland. The trip takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes
GUNMA
MINAKAMI HOUDAIGI
(0278) 75-2557 hodaigi.jp
Dec. 14 - Mar. 31 8:30 - 16:30
Minakami Houdaigi ski resort is the largest in the Minakami area. The resort, due to the higher elevation, also gets good quality snow. Although there are many beginner and intermediate runs, there are a few advanced courses as well, including a killer 40-degree slope and a 2,600-meter cruiser.
Okutone Snow Park
Tenjindaira Tanigawadake
Norn Minakami
Manza Onsen
Kawaba Minakami Houdaigi
Oze Iwakura
While neighboring Niigata gets most of the attention, Gunma quietly has some great snow resorts of its own. Located in northeast Gunma near the border with Niigata, Minakami has 10 ski resorts and is just 90
radar. Katashina Town lies in the shadows of mighty Mt. Hotaka and Mt. Shirane and features nearby resorts such as the popular Oze Iwakura, Hotaka Bokujo, a boarder’s park, and Oguna Hotaka, a nice mid-sized resort. Manza, to the east of Katashina, the popular ski and onsen areas of Manza and Kusatsu Resort & Spa are great places to relax before or after a good day on the mountain.
(0278) 72-8101 okutone.jp
(weekends
If rails, pipes and jumps are your thing, Okutone ski area is the place to go in Minakami. The park staff takes good care of guests who come to perfect their style at the resort’s park. The night sessions are popular, since they keep the lights on until midnight on Friday and Saturday nights and before national holidays. The north-facing courses have nice snow quality, and you can enjoy some turns on the 3,900-meter long course. Okutone is just two hours from Tokyo, making it super convenient. They offer free tickets to kids under 12 and free coffee if you come before 10 a.m. on weekdays.
NORN MINAKAMI
(0278)-72-6688 norn.co.jp
Dec. 19 - Mar. 23 8:00 - 22:00/24:00 (16:30 - 24:00)
Situated just three kilometers from the Minakami Interchange, Norn Minakami is the most convenient of the Minakami Resorts if you are coming by car. The resort is great for families. They’ve created “family zones” where the average slope is just 13 degrees and a Day Care Center where parents can drop off the little ones and enjoy some time on the mountain themselves. Norn is open from 7 a.m. to midnight on weekends, so you can enjoy a long day on the slopes and, like all Minakami resorts, it is not far from some great hot springs.
(0278) 72-3575 tanigawadake-joch.com/en/mt-t/ Dec. 21 - Apr. 6 8:30 - 16:30
Although Tenjindaira is better known to most for trekking in summer, when the tram is packed with hikers, the resort is a popular stop on the backcountry trail. The resort itself is relatively small, but lift lines are usually short and the snow quality can be excellent if it’s not too windy up top. However, the secret to “Tenjin” is off the main trails. Those who like their riding steep and deep head for the backcountry. This is “enter at your own risk” territory and not a place to go without avalanche gear (and the knowledge how to use it). Better yet, hire one of the knowledgeable local guides and enjoy some "Japow!"
By Train and Bus:
to
(0278) 52-3345 kawaba.co.jp
Dec. 11 - Mid-April 8:30 - 16:00
There’s something different about Kawaba. You’ll notice it the first time you pull into the covered parking area of the eight-story Kawaba City center house. There are six floors of parking and the and ski/board shops. On the mountain, Kawaba is progressive as well with a nice balance of park and powder. Within the 10,790 meters of skiable terrain is the “Powder Zone,” a section of the mountain left ungroomed for powder lovers. There is a good mogul course, the Free Ride Park (back by popular demand) and a 3,300-meter trail for cruising. Kawaba City also includes a ski school, kids corner and locker rooms.
ACCESS By Train and Shuttle Bus: Shinkansen to Jomo Kogen (75 minutes), then a 50-minute shuttle bus ride to Kawaba
KUSATSU ONSEN
(0279) 88-8111 www.932-onsen.com/winter
Dec. 19 - Apr. 6 8:30 - 21:00 (17:00 - 21:00)
Although Kusatsu is famous as one of the country’s best onsen resorts, the area also features a quality ski resort that has been around since the Taisho Era and is open nearly six months out of the year. Kusatsu Snow & Spa has a zipline, Kids Square where the little ones can enjoy activities such as snow tubing, and a variety of courses for all levels. However, the best part of being at Kusatsu is the fact you can enjoy some world-famous hot springs after a great day on the mountain.
ACCESS By Train and Bus: Shinkansen to Karuizawa Station from Tokyo (72 minutes), then 55 min. by direct bus from Karuizawa Station
MANZA ONSEN
(0279) 97-3117 princehotels.co.jp/ski/manza/winter
Dec. 21 - Mar. 23 8:30 - 16:30
Manza Onsen is another of Prince Resorts signature properties, and the hotel’s buildings command an imposing presence at the bottom of the hill. The resort features a lot of good beginner and intermediate runs and is a great place for families. There are not a lot of challenging runs for advanced skiers, but the scenery is beautiful, the snow quality excellent as it is one of Japan’s highest resorts and the hotel has a nice rotenburo (outdoor bath) for after-ski soaking. The facilities and amenities are on a par with what you’d expect from Prince Resorts, making for a stress-free ski experience.
to Takasaki Station (50 minutes) then to Manza-kazawaguchi Station (90 minutes). Then change to the Seibu Kanko Bus to Manza Onsen (50 minutes).
OZE IWAKURA
(0278) 58-7777 oze-iwakura.co.jp/ski
Dec. 14 - Apr. 6 8:30 - 16:45 (16:45 - 20:00)
Oze Iwakura is only 150 minutes from Tokyo and one of the top ski resorts in the Kanto region for its variety of slopes and powder snow especially at the 1,700-meter peak. There are 16 courses for all levels of riding, and a kids park. There are also six uncompacted snow courses for powderhounds. Advanced riders can hike up Nishiyama and enjoy backcountry skiing. There are two ski-in, ski-out hotels on the slopes. After a day of riding, relax in hot springs and enjoy Japanese culture. From Tokyo, take a direct highway bus from Shinjuku.
ACCESS From Shinjuku Station, take the Katashina Snow Express express bus to Otekatashina Roadside Station (approx. 180 minutes). From there, transfer to the shuttle bus to Oze Iwakura (approx. 10 minutes).
Gunma