I’m grateful to have lived in some wonderful communities during my time in Japan. My eldest son was born in the beachside locale of Chigasaki, an hour south of Tokyo. We loved living in the Shonan area with its laid back vibe and friendly locals. Chigasaki felt like a young community where everyone came from somewhere else, yet all felt familiar and fortunate to find each other there. We’d bbq outside our houses or head to the beach for sunrise surfs or sunset beers. The entire stretch of Shonan coastline from the Morito Kaigan to Odawara is made up of small communities with their own subtle differences.
Our second son was born in the mountains of Nagano and both grew up in the small ski town of Nozawa Onsen. This traditional hot spring village gets some of the heaviest snowfall in the world and is divided into thirteen neighborhoods, called “gumi ,” organized around each of the thirteen village hot springs. Being part of the community here means participating in snow clearing, onsen cleaning, matsuri (festival) preparation and early starts to clean shrines and temples. The village has countless unwritten rules that make everything work and living in snow country is hard. The community is tight and villagers are strong, hearty people keeping centuries old traditions alive.
During the pandemic we moved south to Okinawa where we also found a strong sense of community—uchinanchu (local Okinawa) identity and pride. Sensibilities may differ, but the tight knit communities supporting each other remain. People don’t gather to clear heavy snow, but neighbors help get ready for oncoming typhoons, join local festivals or just gather to pass the time. This sense of community is one of the things that makes Japan special and one that I hope doesn’t change with tourism returning at warp speed.
In “Okinawa Blue Zone,” Akiko Terai explores the traditional moai communities in Okinawa. It’s no secret that keeping active and healthy eating contributes to living a long, happy life, but the secrets to the longevity of the people in the Yambaru Region point to the power of community, spirituality and connection with nature.
We stay in the Yambaru area and learn more about a treehouse oasis deep in the forest. A dream became a reality for a father and daughter who developed this luxury eco-retreat in and around the beautiful trees here. One local resident you might be lucky to meet is the colorful, and endangered Ryukyu Mountain Turtle. We talked to the Okinawa Kame Centre about their efforts to protect these turtles from development and the illegal trade market. Further south, we swung into Forest Adventure in Onna. They have developed some exciting activities in the treetops while also minimizing the impact to Okinawa’s natural habitat. Continuing with the tree theme, we find out more about the conservation efforts around the sacred trees of Mt. Koya and explore the path less traveled in Kumano on the Iseji Trail.
Culinary travel has become extremely popular in Japan, and even those not joining a dedicated tour come with eating and drinking on their mind. In that spirit we head to Kumamoto, the traditional homeland of shochu, specifically the Kuma Valley. We also drop into an authentic German-style microbrewery on the steps of Okinawa’s Shuri Castle then head down the road to Kokusai-dori and visit the E-Charity bike shop and their enterprising owner who has created a business out of recycling e-bikes and creating e-bike tours in Okinawa. We also catch up with the Knights in White Lycra and their annual charity bike ride to raise money to support underprivileged youth in Japan.
As we approach our 25th year promoting travel and adventure travel in Japan—and our 20th year publishing our magazine uninterrupted—we’ve realized we must continue to evolve. We are not giving up on print, in fact we plan to increase the size and volume of Traveler magazine, but we will publish bi-annually (summer/autumn and winter/spring) so we can continue to do the stories we want to tell but also give our readers and supporters more timely and frequent content online, while sharing what makes Japan such a special place to an even larger audience. Free for all, as always.
Japan is at a crossroads with tourism. Sustainable travel, quality over quantity, and educating travelers on the importance of respecting local customs, is the way forward. There are so many incredible destinations outside of the major hubs and we hope to continue to connect travelers to to these places. Every season is a new adventure in Japan and we hope you’ll find some inspiration in these pages, online and by following our socials for timely updates, announcements and additional content throughout the green season.
—Gardner Robinson Editor-in-Chief
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Cover Photo: Courtesy of Treeful Treehouse
WOLFBRÄU NAHA, OKINAWA
BY GARDNER ROBINSON
Thirty-five years ago German businessman Wolfram Opitz spent two months in Tokyo to help train a partner company in Japan. “What an interesting city and country,” he thought. Today, he and his wife Yuka are the proud owners of Okinawa’s only German-style microbrewery at the steps of the most famous landmark, Shuri Castle.
Back in Germany and Switzerland, Wolfram gained knowledge of brewing beer with his home-brewing friends. “It is legal to drink beer from the age of 16 years old there, so my knowledge goes back even further,” he jokes.
When he got to Japan he wasn’t overly impressed by “average tasting” beer from Japan’s major beer producers. He did, however ,enjoy some outstanding craft beers, which gave him inspiration—and confidence—to start his own brewery after retiring from his corporate career.
He was 57-years-old when he and his wife began thinking about their future, and what kind of lifestyle they wanted. Yuka had already started roasting coffee with a Probat roaster back in Hamamatsu, Shizuoka while they lived there. After some soul searching they landed on the idea to brew beer and roast coffee in Okinawa. Their adventure began with a oneway flight to the big island.
“I had traveled a lot within Japan—on business, with friends, on our motorcycles— but I felt, and still feel, Okinawa is the best,” Wolfram recalls.
They settled into the Shuri Castle area of Naha, where they would enjoy morning walks and explore the neighborhood. One day on one of these early jaunts, they saw a “For Rent” sign on a building near the ancient castle. It seemed like the perfect location.
In 2019 Wolfbräu Brewery started brewing German-style been in line with “Reinheitsgebot,” the “Purity Law,” which was enacted in Bavaria in 1516. It stated, the only ingredients that could be used in the production of beer were water, barley and hops. While the proclamation doesn’t mention yeast as an ingredient, it was used in the brewing process, thus accepted as an essential part of the brewing process. Beer that didn’t abide by these tenets was promptly confiscated.
Today, the award-winning brewery crafts nearly twenty beers, including their Hefeweizen,
Pilsner, Shuri Red (amber ale), Shuri Yellow (Helles), Shuri no Kaze (German ale), Märzen, Kölsch as well as their popular Oktoberfest and coffee stout beers. Visitors can stop by the Wolfbräu Brewery and Roastery brewpub to enjoy fresh beer and coffee from the source.
There are challenges starting any small business, and brewing in Japan’s most southern prefecture was no exception.“For starters, transport costs of raw materials is much higher out here,” Wolfram says, “But our warm season is longer than Tokyo, which is great for drinking beer,” he adds.
It’s a challenge competing with large breweries with unlimited marketing budgets, but Wolfbräu’s aim is to convince people that well-brewed beer with superior ingredients and real craft knowledge has value—and it is worth paying a bit more for quality. His leap of faith is paying off, as they particularly get great local feedback about their Weisen, Pilsner and ale. They’ve recently invested in canning, which makes it easier to ship fresh beer, and easier for customers to carry home.
Wolfram considers crafting great beer both art and science. “One does not work without the other. You need some inspiration, some risk and proper processes,” he states. This combination of passion and precision has brought energy to the neighborhood they now call home, and authentic German beer for everyone in Okinawa to enjoy. v
Excitement—mixed with exhaustion— filled the air as 44 enthusiastic riders celebrated the completion of the 2024 Knights in White Lycra (KIWL) 500-kilometer Charity Cycle Ride. This marked KIWL’s fifth charity ride in partnership with Mirai no Mori, a not-for-profit organization that creates lifechanging outdoor programs for abused, neglected and orphaned children in Japan.
Over the course of the final four-days, participants faced the highest elevation out of all of the charity rides. Heavy rain on day four hindered progress, yet despite these challenges, the riders’ perseverance shone through from the starting point in Shizuoka to the finish line in Nagano, where a high school student living in a care home, and program graduates who Mirai no Mori supported in the past, greeted them.
These young adults made speeches to express their gratitude and appreciation towards The Knights, who in turn have acted as role models to the marginalized youth that Mirai no Mori and KIWL have teamed up to support since 2016.
“My goal was to speak English with the Knights about my hobby—running. It is always nice to talk with people who share a lot of the same interests!' Said one high school student.
The 2024 Charity Ride celebrates five years and another 500 kilometers to help support Mirai no Mori and their mission to help the marginalized youth in Japan.
“Growing up, I received support from so many people. I didn't really realize it when I was a child, but now that I'm a member of society, I see the importance of that support and am very grateful. Through this event with KIWL, I was able to meet and talk with many supporters, and express my gratitude in my own words!” Added another graduate.
The Knights have been a huge part of the Mirai no Mori story, having raised funds for its mission not only through the 500K Charity Ride, but through many other “Get Fit and Give Back” initiatives. These funds go directly to enhancing the quality and quantity
of Mirai no Mori outdoor programs that are designed to equip children living in care homes with “essential life skills” required to overcome the variety of issues they may face when becoming independent members of society.
“After participating in last year's ride, I had the opportunity to join the Mirai no Mori rafting program. The one day I spent there with the children left a strong impression on me. Being able to meet them in person and work with them was a big motivation for me to make it through this ride!” Shared a second-time rider.
“More than anything, the real fulfillment for me is to see the riders have a great experience during the ride, and then for everyone to meet the kids for whom we are giving our time, efforts and donations. Money can’t buy that.” Adds KIWL Chair and Co-founder, Robert Williams.
Mirai no Mori utilizes the outdoors as one of the main tools to achieve this with the belief that, unlike society, the outdoors doesn’t judge. Rain or shine, nature will act the same to everyone without discriminating. The NPO builds programs around the idea of giving children a break from the negative cycle of events they live on a daily basis, and an equal playing field where they can redefine and rediscover themselves. v
GET INVOLVED!
To learn more about the Knights and how you can get involved with upcoming events (such as the charity run below) and rides, as well as ways to support Mirai no Mori, please visit their websites for more information. Outdoor Japan has been a proud supporter of Mirai no Mori and encourage readers to find out how they can help children in Japan in need of support grow through the outdoors.
Knights in White Lycra: kiwl.net Mirai no Mori: mirai-no-mori.jp
COMING UP!
In the spirit of “Getting fit and Giving Back,” Mirai no Mori will host a Charity Run on Nov. 10. Whether you're a seasoned runner or just looking for a fun way to stay active, this fun run offers a range of options to suit all fitness levels while making your miles matter! Save the date and stay tuned for more details on Mirai no Mori’s website and social media as well as announcements through Outdoor Japan.
Upcycling Okinawa
BY GARDNER ROBINSON
From used k-trucks to discarded e-bikes, optimist and opportunist Hiroaki Inubuse is motion personified. His latest project aims to help travelers discover Okinawa’s backstreets and ancient roads on “upcycled” e-bikes with Discovery Cycling Tours Okinawa.
"Upcyling” can be defined as the act of taking something no longer wanted or in use and giving it a second life. Hiroaki Inubuse has built a career on giving new life to things seemingly unwanted in Japan. Nearly twenty years ago he recognized there was a demand for Japan’s beloved “k-trucks” overseas and so he began exporting used k-trucks, primarily to the Philippines. Business was cruising along until the “Lehman Shock” financial crisis sent ripples across the globe in the late 2000’s sparing none—including Japan. Needing to change directions, he started looking at trends in the marketplace. He was working on used bicycles in his spare time and discovered he had a knack and interest for bikes. During this time he also noticed e-bikes were starting to gain some momentum in Japan. These rechargeable, power assisted bikes were marketed as an eco-friendly alternative to gas powered bikes or mopeds, as well as a good option for people who need a a boost up hills or over long distances. Up until then personal electronic vehicles were mainly used by the elderly or those with disabilities to get around.
Cars and regular bicycles have a robust secondhand market in Japan, but he realized there wasn’t a secondary marketed for e-bikes. Equipped with kid seats, these electric bikes were great for families who needed to bike kids to preschool, kindergarten and elementary school in urban areas, yet once the kids outgrew the
bikes they often were no longer needed and disposed.
Enter Inubuse the opportunist. He jumped in and began purchasing used e-bikes and fixing them (with no prior e-bike maintenance experience) to resell them to people wanting more affordable e-bikes.
“When buying a car or motorcycle, it's common to think, ‘Should I get a new car or a used one?’” Says Inubuse. “So, if you were to buy an electric bike, why shouldn’t you have similar options?” He asks.
He wasn’t totally sure there would be a demand for used e-bikes, but once he started selling them in his hometown of Kobe, his view changed quickly.
The word “chari” ( チャリ ) in Japanese means “bicycle,” such as in the oft-used term mamachari ( ママチャリ ), bikes used by moms to cart kids around—usually with a basket on the front and/or a child seat on the back. He chose to call his new company “E-Charity” ( イーチャリティ ) a play on words combining “E” for e-bikes, “chari” for bicycles, and “charity” for the spirit of giving new life to used or discarded bikes. He founded his company with the goal of bringing the pleasure of e-bikes to everyone.
E-Charity grew its fleet and sales, eventually expanding to open it’s Eastern Japan office in Yokohama. He also found that while many people wanted e-bikes they often got into trouble when something went wrong—especially after their warranty expired—so E-Charity also began offering
after-care service for e-bike owners so they could feel comfortable after their purchase.
As business grew so did Inubuse’s appreciation for e-bikes and his desire to get more people on them to explore Japan. The pandemic still had its grip on Japan, but, after traveling around Japan on sales trips, the forward-minded Inubuse wanted to break into tourism. During a visit down south, he was lured by the charms of Okinawa and decided this is where he’d start. Around that time Maki Paterson had also been looking for a new challenge. She had recently transitioned from a job a marketing manager at a hotel to working to promote cycling tours and travel in Okinawa.
Once their paths crossed, it seemed like the perfect fit. In April 2023 E-Charity opened their shop on the most popular tourist street in Okinawa, Naha’s Kokusaidori, a perfect base for getting travelers on e-bikes to tour the city and surrounding areas.
Although Paterson had spent a number of years living overseas in Australia, she was born in Naha, not far from the E-Charity shop, and still has family living nearby.
To help distinguish the tour side of the business from their retail biz (and make it easier for travelers to find them online) they rebranded the tours as Discovery Bicycle
Tours Okinawa (DCTO) offering guided and unguided tours. While most of the tours are half days (4 hours) they also organize multiday tours in northern Okinawa as well as some island-hopping adventures.
“Two of my favorite places to cycle are up north in Ogimi Village in Yambaru and the Shuri area here in Naha. There is so much culture in the backstreets of Naha,” Paterson shares. “I love giving travelers an introduction to the city by bicycle so they can explore the small streets, meet locals and get a lay of the land.” She adds .
She finds it especially valuable for travelers who want to explore more on their own later as they can learn how to get around and what areas to avoid, while getting a general introduction and understanding of cultural norms in Okinawa.
“We encourage people to forgo the rental car. It’s so much more interesting to explore Okinawa by bicycle—especially Naha—and I’d I highly recommend jumping on one of the many ferries with a bike to get around the island,” says Paterson. “It’s much cheaper, easier and way more fun.”
Ferries leave daily from Tomari Port in Naha up to Motobu and Nago as well as to the Keramas (Zamami Islands) and other smaller islands nearby. The shop can help customers with reservations if they have trouble booking on their own. All rentals come with normal helmets (for free) or you can rent one of their wireless blue-tooth helmets, which they use to communicate during tours. They are also handy for listening to music and answering the phone while riding.
With tourism now back to—or exceeding—pre-pandemic levels, finding experiences away from crowds, as well as learning about authentic Okinawa culture and history from locals, is even more valuable.
Patterson notes that while the Ryukyu culture and history is unique and interesting for travelers, she also finds people want to understand locals' perspective on the complicated war history—past and present. It’s important, she says, to hear how people really think and how they cherish peace and living in harmony with each other.
Discovery Cycling Tours Okinawa offer tours and rentals year round. Summer can be hot, so sunscreen and drinking a lot of water is important. There are special tours featuring indigenous night blooming flowers from July to September and Autumn is generally considered the best season for touring with dry, hot weather that cools off in the morning and evening. Just keep an eye on the forecast for the rogue typhoon. Winter can be very pleasant, albeit sometimes windy, and a great side trip to a ski holiday in Japan. The rainy season in Okinawa is a bit earlier than the main island (between mid-May and midJune), but can be beautiful and the hotaru (fire flies) our out in May.
One of the most popular Naha tours is a four-hour sunset ride from the pottery area of Tsuboya-dori through Asato, which used to
DISCOVERY BICYCLE
TOURS OKINAWA
Tel: (098) 988-8155
E-mail: naha-info@echarity.co.jp
Web: discovery-tours.jp
E-CHARITY
Tel: (045) 443-6518
E-mail: info@echarity.co.jp
Web: echarity.co.jp
be a red light district, but is now a shopping street with izakaya and other restaurants that will lure you back after your ride. It continues to Shuri Castle, the ancient capital of the Ryukyu Kingdom. The area is adorned with cobblestone roads, temples and sacred shrines. The highlight is watching the sunset from a lookout point before continuing back to Shuri Castle Park and Shureimon Gate, which are illuminated at night.
E-bike tours can be catered to any fitness level and, for those wishing to ride regular bikes, it is possible based on availability— just be aware the Shuri Castle area is hilly. To book tours visit the Discovery Cycling Tours Okinawa website or find them on Trip Advisor or Get Your Guide.
What’s next for Inubuse? “I’d love to expand our recycled e-bike tours to Tokyo, Kyoto and other areas, then maybe even overseas,” he says with knowing smile. v
Ryukyu’s Mountain Turtles
Interview with Okinawa Turtle Centre’s Aya Narukiyo
BY GARDNER ROBINSON
Okinawa attracts hordes of travelers to its sandy beaches and warm, clear water with divers and snorkelers often posting images of the majestic local sea turtles. The interior forest and rivers, however, are home to another Okinawa turtle also in need of protection—the small, reclusive, but equally beautiful, yamagame .
Okinawa’s yamagame (Geoemyda japonica Fan, 1931) are a small forest dwelling species of turtle found in the Ryukyu archipelago of southern Japan, namely on Okinawa Island, Kume Island, and Tokashiki Island. In an effort to protect this freshwater turtle species, the Japanese government designated them as a National Natural Monument in 1975.
In 2000, Tsutomu Otani launched the only field study permitted by Japan’s Ministry of the Environment. The study focuses on the capture-mark-recapture of turtles throughout the year in Yanbaru National Park, the wild northern region of Okinawa Island. Otani has identified hundreds of unique individuals at the research site and has gained invaluable
knowledge about their habitat, behavior and ecology.
Yamagame , which translates to “mountain turtle” (officially called the Ryukyu black-breasted leaf turtle) are listed as endangered and are believed to be in decline due to continuous land development and poaching for the pet trade. The government has no ongoing conservation plan for the yamagame and without Otani's study, there would be no way of monitoring the wild populations. Each passing year Otani finds fewer and fewer turtles. He’s reached retirement age and is in need of assistance to continue the study.
Aya Narukiyo and Dr. Zach Bell heard many stories about Otani and the yamagame and wanted to help. In 2020, they founded the Okinawa Kame Centre, a non-profit organization focused on protecting and conserving yamagame and their habitat on Okinawa Island. Since then the organization has expanded their conservation efforts to include two additional species, the yellowmargined box turtle and the yellow pond turtle.
What does the Okinawa Kame Centre primarily do?
Our association mainly focuses on the protection and conservation of the Ryukyu black-breasted leaf turtle. This is the only native species of freshwater turtle on Okinawa Island.
These turtles are true climbers and can be found high in the mountains of the northern region of Okinawa island called Yanbaru—a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is likely how they received their local Japanese name リュキュヤマガメ (Ryukyu mountain turtle).
Adults are about the size and weight of a smartphone and can be found with bright red colored skin and attractive patterns on the shell. Little is known about their natural behaviors in the wild and thus there is still much to learn. Unfortunately the wild population appears to be decreasing, evidenced by less sightings during the field study.
What challenges are the turtles facing?
The major challenge for the turtles is their shrinking natural habitat. These turtles are geographically isolated to three small islands and thus land development for commercial use is a major concern. For example, farming in Yanbaru includes clearing trees and rerouting water ways, which not only damages the natural habitat but likely attracts more predators to the turtles. In recent years more crows, a turtle predator, have been seen in and around the turtle’s natural habitat.
With land development comes the construction of more roads. Roads cut through the turtle territories and dodging cars becomes yet another challenge for the turtles. Every year turtles are killed by cars on the road in Yanbaru, despite the warning signs like “Slow Down for the Turtles” or “Stop Roadkill.”
The beauty and rarity of these turtles has created yet another challenge for them. They are highly coveted by turtle collectors around the world and are unfortunately illegally smuggled from the islands and into the international exotic pet trade. Despite these known challenges, the government has yet to develop an effective conservation plan for wild turtle populations.
YAMAGAME EXHIBITS IN OKINAWA
What are you doing to combat this?
To better understand these challenges and determine the best interventions, we joined Tsutomu Otani, a local herpetologist who maintains the only field study permitted by the Japanese government that is monitoring the turtles in the wild.
Although the field site is limited to a narrow trail, less than three kilometers long, we are able to gather vital information about the number of turtles in that region, their health, and the impact humans have on them and their habitat. We are currently looking for help to expand our study to more areas of Yanbaru by working with land developers and land owners.
We’ve realized during the research that many people are unaware of the turtle and its challenges. To raise awareness we provide educational materials on our website and social media about yamagame . We have a special interest in education targeting foreigners living in Okinawa, visitors, locals and people abroad who are interested in turtle conservation. To protect the turtles and their habitat we do not bring people to the survey sites, rather encourage people to see the beautiful creatures in one of the exhibits on island.
OKINAWA TURTLE CENTRE
The Okinawa Turtle Centre’s goal is to protect and conserve the Ryukyu black breasted leaf turtle on Okinawa Island. They accomplish this through field studies and education. You can support the cause by reporting freshwater turtle sightings via the form on their website or through monetary donations and "wish list" items that can be ordered on Amazon. OTC also recruits volunteers. Visit them online for more information and be sure to follow them on Instagram @Okinawakamecentre v
Dan Buettner’s bestseller, “Blue Zones,” which was also adapted into a hit series on Netflix, identifies five regions with a high number of centenarians. One of these zones is Yambaru, in the north of Okinawa Island. A rich cultural and natural heritage remain in this region, holding the secret to the longevity of the communities living there.
Sardinia, Italy, the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica, Loma Linda in California, Ikaria in Greece and Yambaru in Okinawa are “Blue Zones’ where Dan Buettner conducted cross-regional investigations on the lifestyle of the locals there to find out their secrets.
His research paints a picture of how the people in these areas move naturally, eat wisely, have the right outlook and are connected to their tribe—their people, society and the natural environment around them. He suggests the wisdom nurtured in these places can help others achieve health and longevity.
Okinawa as a whole no longer holds the title for the world’s longest average life expectancy. Buettner speculates this is in part due to American chain restaurants and fast food that has altered the eating habits of urban dwellers and the younger generation. However, a traditional lifestyle still remains in Yambaru one that provides a balance of activity, due in part to nutrition and community in Japan’s only “Blue Zone.”
Living Between the Forest and the Sea
Subtropical regions at the same latitude of Yambaru are typically desert areas like Libya, or arid regions such as in India, making forested areas rare. Yambaru, however, is 80% forest. Blessed by the Kuroshio Current and warm rain, the evergreen broadleaf forest nurtures many unique species. Though it occupies only 0.1% of Japan's total area, it is home to 50% of Japan's bird species and 25% of its frog species. Endemic species such as the Yambaru kuina (Okinawa rail) and the Okinawa woodpecker thrive here, supported by a diverse range of plants.
This rich ecosystem, with its intricate web of unique creatures, was recognized as a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site in 2021. This recognition would not have been possible without the culture and history of the people who have lived in harmony with nature here. The Yambaru Region consists of Kunigami, Ogimi and Higashi villages, which are divided into 43 communities along the coast.
In these small strips of land between the forest and the sea, people have developed a lifestyle that coexists with both.
"Our life here is open to the outdoors and to each other," says Itsumi Nakamoto, who runs a local tour company and private villas called Nammei Shinshitsu in the heart of the Kijoka community of Ogimi and the Jyashiki community of Kunigami. Both communities are extremely small; even some Okinawans are unaware of their existence, making them hidden gems. A native to Kunigami Village, Nakamoto aims to offer travelers an opportunity to explore authentic village living while ultimately passing on the beauty of her home to the next generation.
Many villagers live alone or with just one other family member, but see others at least once or even twice a day: during the day while running errands and in the evenings when they pass the time cooling off together.
Elderly men and women enjoy tea or sake outside. As long as travelers maintain respect (i.e., go with a local guide and avoid
rudely taking photos), the residents will casually invite visitors into the conversations. In Okinawa, there is a saying, “ Ichariba chode ,” meaning, “From the moment we meet, we are like brothers and sisters.”
Those who see each other daily certainly share an even deeper connection. A key aspect of Okinawan culture is the concept of "moai," which refers to lifelong groups of friends who support each other. Moai groups offer financial, emotional and social support, contributing significantly to the community's overall well-being and longevity. The mutual help within moai foster strong social connections and a sense of belonging, crucial elements for a long and healthy life.
Homegrown Sustainability
One of the keys to longevity is eating wisely, and the people of these communities do just that. In Okinawa, ingredients and meals that boost health are called nuchigusui, or "life medicine." According to Emiko Kinjo who runs Emi-no-Mise, a local restaurant in Kunigami Village, the way people in these villages eat embodies this concept.
Their ancestors sustained themselves from the forest, the sea and the farms they cultivated in the forest. Much of the bigger fields have returned to the forest, yet each home still has a small garden with plants for medicine and cooking.
"Even if the elderly cannot drive to the supermarket, they can still get vegetables from the garden in front of their house. Or if typhoons hinder the growth of vegetables, the grandmothers of this place still know how to cook the wild plants," says Emiko. The dishes she serves at her restaurant are not much different from the daily diet of locals, a lesson in how to receive the blessings of the land and sea, such as wild herbs, boar, fish, seasonal vegetables and more.
Ikigai: Sensing the Mighty
Ogimi Village is also the birthplace of "ikigai ," a word gaining international recognition, which means "purpose of life." European journalists discovered this word while interviewing the people living in Ogimi and recognized it as another key to a fulfilling life. Buettner describes ikigai as having the right outlook. People with ikigai get up every morning with things to do, knowing it will contribute to their surroundings no matter the size of the impact. What they do is at the intersection of what they love, what they are good at and what the world needs.
Toshiiko Taira, who lived in the Kijoka community of Ogimi Village is known as a kind of ikigai role model. She dedicated her life to preserving the Kijioka bashofu textile techniques of the village. This traditional textile is the only textile present in modern Japan where the entire process from growing the materials to weaving the fabric is completed within one village. Moreover, the process uses no gas, just manpower and firewood.
From the heavy labor of growing banana plants to the delicate work of spinning threads, jobs are attributed to villagers including elders. Taira, herself continued spinning Bashofu threads until a few months before her death at the age
of 104. From Nammei Shinsitsu villas in the Kijoka community, it’s a five-minute walk past Bashofu leafs to the Bashofu Kaikan, where you can see women continuing to weave— the beautifully woven products filled with the ikigai of the villagers.
Plants of Yambaru are also used to make daily necessities other than textiles. A forest road in Kunigami Village leads to a secluded atelier not visible on Google Maps and accessible only to those who already know it. Local women gather there to turn the leaves of shell ginger and other wild plants into ropes, baskets, trivets, even shoes.
Crafting with wild plants is not only a communal practice but also a spiritual one. Deities are believed to descend upon certain plants like kuba (fountain palm), and men would wear kuba ropes made here into the mountains to greet the spirits on ceremonial occasions.
Recent Harvard research has uncovered a correlation between spirituality and longevity. Although such studies are still in progress, spending time with these women and learning rope making, amidst the invisible beings of the forest, you may sense their wisdom being imparted into you.
Blue Zone Visitors
"This is not untouched nature,” adds Itsumi. “Rather, we live where people have long been exploring how to live together with nature.”
Staying at a Nammei Shinshitsu villa offers a unique opportunity to authentically experience a lifestyle that fosters longevity. Visitors spending time in these villages, where nature is seamlessly connected to human activities, get a sense of peering back into the past while gazing into a brighter future.
These quiet, far-off-the-beaten-path communities welcome a limited number of guests at a time. Visitors can connect with the locals, immerse themselves in their daily life, learn from their way of being and take these lessons home. v
WRITER BIO
Akiko Terai is the author of two narrative non-fiction books in Japanese, “10 Years Later” and “Letters from Savanna.” With a passion for storytelling and a commitment to preserving local heritage, she contributes to magazines and newspapers, bringing her expertise to regional initiatives through in-depth research and story-based travel content creation. Splitting her time between Tokyo and Okinawa, she also works as a bilingual guide, providing personalized tours that highlight the cultural and natural beauty of Japan.
ESSENTIAL INFO
Getting There: The Yambaru Region is accessible by car from Naha, the capital of Okinawa. The drive takes about 1 hour 45 minutes depending on traffic conditions. Public transportation options are limited, so renting a car is recommended in order to explore the area. You can book both the villas and activities at Nanmei Shinsitsu at yambaru.co.jp
Yambaru Blue Zone Tours: It’s possible to join a three-day tour with a local guide and experience the Yamburu culture and lifestyle. Tours are limited to one group per week from June to September. More information is available at yambaru.co.jp/bluezone
OKINAWA'S
Treehouse Oasis
BY RIE MIYOSHI
Tucked away in the lush jungles of Okinawa is an eco-conscious retreat called Treeful Treehouse. This sustainable resort is an immersive experience that invites guests to reconnect with nature.
Treeful Treehouse is led by Tokyo natives Satoru Kikagawa and his daughter Maha. As a child Satoru was inspired by the Japanese children’s book, “I Want a Big Tree,” and he dreamed of building a treehouse ever since. Summer holidays were spent with family in the mountains or the countryside. Much later as an adult, he was triggered by deforestation he witnessed in Borneo during a family trip.
Meanwhile, Maha grew up enjoying nature and studied ecosystem science and policy in the Galapagos Islands and Peru. She wanted to give back to nature and thought that a treehouse resort would be the perfect way to do that.
After failing once to build a treehouse, Satoru pushed through, and in 2014, he built his first treehouse—Spiral Treehouse in Okinawa. Okinawa has untouched native forests and trees that are uniquely curvy compared to those in colder climates, making it ideal for treehouse building. It was a steep learning curve as Satoru and Maha transitioned from being a chairman of a gaming company and an event organizer to treehouse builders. They were aided by their realtor, who believed in them and their commitment to nature preservation. He helped them search northern Okinawa for the perfect big tree to build a treehouse and make their dream a reality.
“Some people didn’t take the project seriously at first, but I didn’t care,” says Maha. “I get to give back to nature this way, and that’s exciting and fun for me.”
In 2021, the father-daughter duo officially opened the treehouse as a hotel, proving that sustainability and luxury can coexist seamlessly. They have plans to expand to ten treehouses, all located in the same area. As expected, opening a treehouse resort came with its challenges. There were legal issues and logistics such as digging their own well for water and passing the water quality test, as well
that by removing the concrete blocks and reinstalling the water mill.
The treehouses sit at 1.2 meters or higher above the ground so that sunlight and rain can reach the soil and let plants, microorganisms and roots grow while avoiding animal habitats from being disturbed or damaged.
“It’s like we are renting space from the tree,” says Maha.
as finding cleaners who could commute everyday to the mountainous jungle. The resort is carbon negative, meaning that it absorbs more carbon dioxide than it produces, and it does not use any fossil fuels.
Their solar energy panels create more electricity than what is used. The resort is not powered directly by solar energy but does feed off renewable energy from Okinawa Electric Power’s Uchina CO2 Free Menu. This is a renewable energy source that uses non-fossil certificates from solar, wind and biomass power generation in Okinawa, thereby reducing carbon dioxide emissions. The water is drawn from a well and sourced from the Genka River that flows in front of the treehouse and is sterilized by ultraviolet rays instead of chlorine. For hot water and showers, the water is boiled in a tank using EcoCute, a system that uses surplus electricity at night. One of their toilets is a compost toilet.
They also work on sustainable projects nearby, like Shizogumui Waterfall. Around 100 years ago, the waterfall used to be a popular spot for children to play as it was a pool with a water mill. However, someone put concrete there and destroyed the mill, so Satoru and Maha reversed
The treehouses are surrounded by native, endangered flora and fauna such as the Ryukyu spiny newt, Okinawa gecko, aomiokatanishi (a tropical ancient snail), sword-tailed newt and Ryukyu ruddy kingfisher.
Currently the Spiral Treehouse and another structure— the AeroHouse—is available for accommodation, with two more treehouses opening this year. There is an overseas project in the works as well. When guests book, they have access to both buildings (at the moment, you must book both). The treehouse is literally built around the tree, as you can even touch the trunk from inside. Floor-to-ceiling walls offer panoramic views of the Okinawan jungle.
A private butler prepares ingredients that guests can cook easily around a fire on the tree deck, and there are plans for private chef options.
There is a complimentary river trek tour at Genka River and a trekking tour at Cape Takae, which offers ocean views. If you’re lucky, you might see the endangered Ryukyu black-breasted turtle which is only found in Okinawa and designated as a national treasure of Japan. There is also an amphibious eight-wheeler tour to hard-to-access spots. Guests with Japanese or international driver’s licenses can have a go at driving the eight wheelers.
The hotel is open year round with summer being a popular time to visit. Winter however provides a warm escape from the rest of Japan’s chilly weather. There are fewer bugs and the river is cooler so it is refreshing to jump in after a hot sauna or while river trekking. The night skies are also clearer in winter.
For more information on Treeful Treehouse, visit treeful.net.
GETTING THERE
Treeful Treehouse is about an hour-and-a-half drive from Naha City. The best way to get here is by car. Note that access may change due to weather, road constructions or obstacles. Once you're in the forest, phone signal may drop so check the routes beforehand and drive safely. Their website has specific instructions on how to get to Treeful Treehouse including Google map locations. v
Forest Adventure Okinawa
BY GARDNER ROBINSON
Holiday-goers lounging on Onna’s white sand beaches are no doubt unaware of what’s going on high in the jungle as creatures climb above the forest canopy and zip or swing from tower to tower. Curious travelers will discover a new side of Okinawa’s tropical paradise if they take the leap into a Forest Adventure.
Sand and sea are what draws most people to Okinawa, yet in the midst of all that relaxing sometimes you need to get out of your comfort zone—or at least out of the pool—and try something new and exciting to write home about.
Back in 2006 Forest Adventure opened its first activity base at the foot of Japan’s iconic Mt. Fuji with the support and know-how from their partner in Europe who had pioneered ropes courses there. Since then, Forest Adventure has expanded their network of adventure parks, showcasing Japan’s diverse landscapes, climates and forests. They now have more than 40 bases across the country, from Hokkaido to Okinawa, where visitors can learn the basics of ropes courses, zip lines and other adventure activities. It’s a great place to safely push your limits with the the support of expert staff and encouragement of family and friends.
When developing each location the landscape is their canvas and they use the natural features to design their courses, minimizing construction and the environmental impact on the area—aiming to leave the forest in its natural state as much as possible. This goal of building eco-friendly outdoor parks that promote harmony with nature means that each park is inherently unique. Japan is home to coniferous, deciduous and sub-tropical forests and visitors
at Forest Adventure get to see, smell and feel Nature while navigating the terrain.
Okinawa’s lone Forest Adventure is located in Onna Village, which is nearly the center of Okinawa’s main island, close to many resort hotels and not far from one of the most popular dive spots, Cape Maeda. The park features a variety of activities including a 120-meter-long zip line across the tree tops as you peer out across the East China Sea. The course features eight zip lines of various lengths as well as the Tarzan Swing, a 10-meter-high leap and swing into a large net you grab hold of before pulling yourself up and continuing on.
The Adventure Course, which takes about 2.5 hours to complete, depending on your pace, is the most challenging. It can be tailored to each person’s physical abilities as there are shortcut options for those not comfortable on certain sections and of course visitors are free to retire at any time. Safety and enjoyment to each persons fitness and comfort level are the priorities.
Up until recently, Forest Adventure had stayed true to their philosophy of self reliance using a “self belay system” in which visitors were responsible for clipping in and out of the safety system on their own. At the start, all groups had an obligatory training session before starting, but then it was up to each person and group to complete the course on their own. It was a unique experience because you were 100% responsible for your own safety.
My son (10-years-old at the time) and I went together with our friends while they
ESSENTIAL INFO
Conditions: The course is available to anyone 10-years-old and over or with a minimum height of 1.4m. The Maximum weight is 110kg. Junior high school students and younger must be accompanied by a supervising adult (18-years or older).
were visiting on vacation. The trepidation I witnessed as my son clipped into the self belay system on the first section slowly gave way to self-confidence as he independently clipped in and out of the next sections. There were still some hesitant moments before making one of several leaps of faith, but everyone completed the course and felt that buzz of adrenaline after coming in for the last landing.
All things evolve, and Forest Adventure has moved on from the “Self Belay" System to a “Continuous Belay” system that ensures uninterrupted protection. It makes sense to take as much of the real risk out of the equation, as the perceived risk is more than enough to get your juices flowing. There’s a trick to each section, whether it’s walking a tightrope or trying not to get twisted around in the air so you land cleanly (we had our share of less than graceful landings).
High school students can do the course unaccompanied but adults must supervise from the ground. One adult guardian can accompany up to three children. Note that on extremely stormy days with high wind or threat of thunderstorms the courses will be closed.
Price: Adults & Children: ¥4,000; Private Guides are can be hired for ¥6,000 per round. The trampoline can be rented by groups for ¥500 for ten minutes. All payments must be made in cash before starting the course.
Rentals: If you only brought flip-flops on vacation, don't worry, sturdy rental shoes are available that are great for digging in on those zipline landings. There are also shoulder bags for rent (or fanny packs if you prefer) to put valuables in and even PET bottle holders so you can strap your water on safely (definitely needed on hot days). Gloves can and rain gear can be purchased as well.
FOREST ADVENTURE PARKS IN JAPAN
HOKKAIDO REGION
Forest Adventure Eniwa
KANTO REGION
Ibaraki Prefecture
Forest Adventure Tsukuba
Tochigi Prefecture
Forest Adventure Ohira
Gunma Prefecture
Forest Adventure Ueno
Saitama
Forest Adventure Chichibu
Chiba Prefecture
Forest Adventure Chiba
Forest Adventure Tarzania Kanagawa Prefecture
Forest Adventure Yokohama
Forest Adventure Odawara
Forest Adventure Hakone
KOSHINETSU & HOKURIKU REGIONS
Niigata Prefecture
Forest Adventure Yuzawa Nakazato
Yamanashi Prefecture
Forest Adventure Fuji
Forest Adventure Kosuge
Nagano Prefecture
Forest Adventure Nagano
Forest Adventure Tateshina
Forest Adventure Matsukawa
TOKAI REGION
Shizuoka Prefecture
Forest Adventure Mishima Skywalk
Forest Adventure Gotemba
Aichi prefecture
Forest Adventure Toyota Kuragaike
Forest Adventure Shinshiro
Mie Prefecture
Forest Adventure Yunoyama
Forest Adventure continues to draw on the accumulated expertise of their team and their partners in Europe to operate with the highest safety standards without sacrificing any of the fun. The Okinawa adventure is a great great half activity during a holiday, especially on those overcast days or when the sea conditions might not be great for diving or snorkeling. v
Location: When searching on Google Maps for “Forest Adventure in Onna,” you will find the dedicated parking lot along the seaside on Route 6 from where you’ll get picked up for the short drive up the hill. If you search on other maps apps it may take you to the office and not the meeting point, so take note. Parking is limited so it is recommended to carpool or use public transportation if possible. Contact Forest Adventure for upto-date bus schedules.
A forgotten pilgrimage trail, ancient power spots and authentic rural communities are waiting to be explored this hiking season on the Iseji Trail. Stretch your legs and tickle your spirit to welcome the green season on one of the Kumano Kodo’s finest routes, minus the crowds.
Imagine walking on a moss-covered cobblestone path that winds its way up a mountain pass and down through a dense forest passing many small wooden shrines and Buddhist stone statues. Suddenly the trail opens to a panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean with intriguing rock formations along the coast-line. You walk through quaint hamlets with bamboo groves and paddy fields and meander through the narrow streets of sleepy fishermen’s villages in quiet bays.
This is the ancient Iseji Trail, a centuries-old pilgrimage route on the Kii Peninsula part of the Kumano Kodo network of trails. While there are many walkers on other routes, the Iseji is still an insider’s path.
Rekindling a Lost Tradition
The Iseji “walk of prayer” connects the Ise Grand Shrine in Mie Prefecture with the Three Kumano Grand Shrines at Hongu, Shingu and Nachi, now Wakayama Prefecture. For centuries pilgrims have traversed the nearly 200 kilometers between Ise and Kumano to petition Shinto and Buddhist deities at these places of worship.
What’s more, some pilgrims did not end their spiritual quest in Kumano, but continued on with the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage’s 33 Buddhist temples. This is another old pilgrimage route through the Kansai Region; its starting point is at Seiganto-ji Temple at Nachi.
During the Edo Period (1603-1868), the Iseji experienced a real boom, when going on a pilgrimage became popular amongst common people. However in the last century, the number of pilgrims decreased dramatically and the trail fell into disuse.
In recent years, concerted revival efforts have been made to attract more hikers and adventure seekers to a region that, albeit easily accessible, is still off-the-beaten path.
Highlighted Walks
Walking the whole Iseji would take one to two weeks, but there are easy access points from JR trains stations for selected parts of the trail for shorter durations. A good way to get started on the Iseji is to check out some shorter walks in the central and southern section of the Iseji, plus a visit to the Kumano Sanzen (Kumano’s three grand shrines).
• Magose-toge Pass and the Mount Tengurasan observation point, a protruding rock where ascetic monks trained, has splendid views of the Pacific Ocean (5.1 km.).
• Hadasu-no-michi is considered to be the oldest part of the Iseji with a Kamakura-Era (13th Century) cobblestone path (4 km.).
• Matsumoto-toge Pass and the mysterious Onigajo and Shishiiwa (Monster Castle and Lion Dog) rock formations on a breathtaking 25-km. long Shichi-rimihama pebble stone beach leading to Hananoiwaya (Flower Cave) Shrine (3.5 km.).
Spiritual seekers might want to linger near nature spots considered sacred—like old trees or large rocks—and engage their senses to trace the roots of Shinto nature worship and animism and feel Iseji’s aura of myth and legend.
These stretches of the Iseji, and some others covering 32.9 kilometers of trails, were registered as part of the UNESCO Heritage Site called “Sacred Sites & Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountains.”
Beyond the Pilgrimage
The transformational pilgrimage experience and many nature delights are more than enough to draw travelers, but if you need one more reasons to put the Iseji on your green season bucket list, then explore the treasure drove of authentic community activities.
Enjoy cooking with locals, making mehari-zushi (a traditional regional dish of flavored sushi rice wrapped in pickled Takana mustard leaves) and sipping local tangerine juice. There are also exciting outdoor experiences like sea kayaking or riding a traditional sandanbo (sailboat). v
Essential Info
WHEN TO GO
The trail is open year round but spring and autumn are the best seasons to walk the Iseji. The area receives high amounts of rainfall, which makes a walk on slippery cobblestones a dangerous undertaking, so it is better to avoid rainy days and the days after. Accommodations along the trail are limited, hence plan and book well ahead of your journey to avoid getting stranded if you plan to walk the entire Iseji Trail.
GETTING THERE
Take the Kintetsu Limited Express to Matsusaka Station from Nagoya (70 min.), from Osaka (Namba (90 min.) or from Kyoto (an hour and 50 min.) and change for Iseshi (13 min.) where the Ise Grand Shrine is located. Change to the JR line in Matsusaka and go south to access the Iseji Trail in either KiiNakashima, Owase or Kumanoshi, all located in Mie Prefecture.
Alternatively, take the JR train from Nagoya or Matsusaka all the way to Shingu in Wakayama Prefecture. From there, use local busses to access the Three Kumano Grand Shrines.
WEB CONNECTION
Heartland Japan offers Kumano Kodo Iseji Pilgrimage Walking Tours: heartlandjapan.com/trip/kumano-kodoiseji-pilgrimage-walking-tour/
For self-guided travelers, Mie Prefecture runs a website dedicated to the Iseji with information about each stretch of the trail and downloadable maps: www.kodo.pref. mie.lg.jp/en/
Protectingthe Sacred Trees of Koya-san
BY RIE GRANT PHOTOS BY TRENT MAXWELL
Within the misty mountains of Japan's Kii Peninsula, Koya-san (Mt. Koya), stands as a sacred realm of tranquility, history, and spiritual significance. This awe-inspiring mountain has been revered for centuries and is home to a unique collection of trees known as the rokuboku , or The Six Trees of Koya-san.
Designated as a World Heritage Site, Koya-san is a place of deep spiritual significance for Japanese Buddhism. It was founded by the revered monk Kukai, posthumously known as Kobo Daishi, in the early ninth century. Kobo Daishi introduced esoteric Shingon Buddhism to Japan, and selected the serene, 1,000-meter-high plateau of Koyasan as the site for his spiritual retreat and the foundation of the Shingon sect.
In the year 816, Kobo Daishi inaugurated Koya-san and its head temple, Kongobu-ji, as a dedicated site for the practice of Shingon Buddhism. He was granted the mountain by Emperor Saga and built according to the Buddhist principles of scale to prevent harm and unwanted forces. Historical accounts suggest that the area, approximately 3,000 hectares, consisted of untouched swamplands enveloped by forests. Over the centuries, it has become a center for Buddhist practice, attracting countless pilgrims and seekers.
However in 994, the mountain was subject to a great fire, and most of the shichido garan (seven halls comprising the Buddhist temple compound) burned away. The once-lush mountain had been reduced to a barren plain, so reconstruction began
including the first large-scale forestry effort, where hinoki (cypress) trees were planted around the mountain. Unfortunately, Koyasan continued to be subjected to large fires and required vast amounts of lumber each time the temple was rebuilt.
Rather than clear cutting, the locals decided to use more sustainable selective cutting, felling mature lumber from a section of forest every several years to every ten years and allowing the area to regrow, thus keeping new crops planted. Older trees were selected in sequence from around the mountain, and in their place were planted rokuboku, six types of trees chosen for their construction suitability and resilience: the aforementioned hinoki , sugi (cedar), koya maki (umbrella pine), akamatsu (red pine), momi (fir) and tsuga (hemlock). These trees planted here are banned from any other use other than building the temple.
However in the late 1800s as felling and transportation technologies developed and Koya-san lost a majority of the forest to a new government, the forest went from a selective culling process to clear-cutting. The temple persisted, brokering various negotiations, and in between 1918 and 1945, 2,578 hectares of national forest were put under the supervision of the temple as managed forest land and Kongobu-ji created a forestry division protecting forest growth. New trees had to be replanted as most of the land had been clearcut.
Today, conservation efforts are meticulous and include regular maintenance, pruning, as well as providing structural support for aging branches. This ensures the continued survival and health of the trees
while preserving the historical and spiritual significance of the mountain. Locals also make the most out of the mountain. As the terrain is steep, they have carved terraced rice fields into the slopes and planted flowers and plants used for Buddhist ceremonies in the spaces available.
The protected rokuboku trees serve as a link between the past and the present, connecting visitors to the rich history of Koyasan and its enduring cultural and spiritual traditions.
GETTING AROUND
Koya-san’s many temple buildings and attractions form a small town on the mountain, which in itself is considered a temple. If you’re coming by train, arrive by cable car (¥500 one way from Gokurakubashi Station on the Nankai-Koya line) to Koyasan Station, a ten-minute bus or taxi ride from the town center. Note that you are not allowed to walk along the street between Koyasan Station and the town center.
The town is relatively flat and many of its attractions including Kongobu-ji’s main temple buildings, the garan and Reihokan Buddhist Museum, are easily explored on foot. You can enjoy the forest and see the rikuboku trees on the walking trail adjacent to Nyonin-do. There is a conifer forest surrounding a Forest Therapy Road which runs through a protected forest of umbrella pine. Oku-no-in, Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum, is a 10-minute drive on the eastern side of town. The Daimon Gate, the traditional entrance to Koyasan, is on the western side of town. For more information, visit koyasan. net v
Bringing Strength to Otoyo
BY RIE GRANT
Mountainous villages with dwindling populations are dotted throughout Japan as younger people move to urban areas. These countryside communities, which capture the essence of Japan’s rural beauty and traditional heritage, are at risk as elderly villagers are left to carry the burden. Industrious individuals tired of living in the city are giving some struggling communities a second chance, such as Violet Pacilea who moved to Kochi Prefecture with a dream of breathing new life into her mother’s hometown.
Otoyo is located in the middle of Shikoku Island. It’s geographical location, as well as other factors, including depopulation, an aging community, limited industries and lack of infrastructure, has earned it the distinction of the fifth poorest village in Japan.
When the pandemic hit and international business came to a halt, Violet Pacilea saw the chance to create the lifestyle she always wanted. Worried about her mother, who was having issues with her kneees and could not take care of her property, Pacileo rented out her Tokyo apartment and permanently relocated to Otoyo with three business plans in mind: a distillery, a craft beer brewery or a CrossFit gym.
The distillery and brewery required high initial investment and Pacileo wanted to live healthily in the countryside so the CrossFit idea aligned with her and her husband’s hobbies and former careers. Also when Pacileo conducted initial interviews, she learned that the residents were very health conscious and would travel as far as an
hour away to work out at a gym because there were limited facilities nearby.
After navigating seemingly endless paperwork and bureaucracy, Pacileo won a grant to make her gym a reality. First, she decided to go big. Working with a Japanese female architect, Pacileo transformed a rice paddy into a 240-square-meter warehouse gym that is now CrossFit Otoyo Strength. The CrossFit brand is from the U.S. and its 60-minute program was originally a form of training for police and the military to effectively train their full body in a short and effective way. Today it boasts the largest number of fitness gyms globally.
Pacileo wanted to stand out from other gyms by making CrossFit Otoyo Strength in the mountains and built from scratch using locally sourced wood and upcycled steel, a costly decision. In return, Pacileo has been rewarded with travelers coming from far and wide to see her sustainable gym.
The facility is a scenic riverside venue with a view of the surrounding forest. Pacileo and her husband, who also practices Brazilian jiu jitsu, are the main coaches. The gym is complete with a BBQ space and e-bike and SUP rentals. Visitors can order BBQ plates from a local hunter and try gibier (a French word meaning meat from huntng), including wild boar and venison. Adjacent to the gym is Tiny House Otoyo, sustainably built accommodation for travelers wanting to relax and unplug. They’re also partnered with water sports companies nearby including Happy Raft, which offers whitewater rafting tours.
Also, just when you think Pacileo couldn’t be busier, she is doing all this while freelancing as a NHK TV show host, a rural revitalization consultant, an Outside Director for Strategic Capital and an advocate for gender equality who regularly gives talks to local businesses and schools.
Most of Pacileo’s clients are local residents or inbound travelers who specifically enjoy the CrossFit workout while wanting to immerse themselves in the Japanese countryside. Pacileo says the most rewarding part of her job is seeing her whole family working out together and enjoying quality time in nature. She’s also seen a transformation in her mother, who went from being overweight and shutting herself up at home with poor knees to lifting a 20-kilogram barbell and walking without pain.
As far as future plans go, Pacileo has big ideas including offering more accommodation options and branding Otoyo as model town for sustainability. To learn more about CrossFit Otoyo Strength and stay in Otoyo, visit to otoyostrength.com v
The Spirit of the KumaValley
BY RIE MIYOSHI
Travelers to Japan undoubtedly view sake as the traditional liquor of Japan. Historically they wouldn’t be wrong, since Sudō Honke, the world’s oldest sake brewery (and one of the oldest companies in the world), was founded in 1141 in Ibaraki Prefecture, just north of Tokyo. However Southern Japan is home to another authentic Japanese spirit—shochu , which was first produced about 500 years ago, its roots firmly planted in Japan’s warmer southern climes.
Kumamoto’s Kuma Valley is home to 27 shochu distilleries. This historic, mountainous region in southern Japan has managed to preserve shochu culture and techniques while striving to elevate the experience for shochu enthusiasts.
You might say shochu is literally the spirit of the Kuma Valley. It is present at restaurants, local meetings, family gatherings, celebrations and has even become a pull for tourism as travelers enjoy “shochu experiences” while in the valley.
Kuma Valley’s distilleries produce an astounding 200 labels, so it will take several visits (or an extremely strong liver) to enjoy the diverse lineup all in one trip.
The former samurai castle town of Hitoyoshi City is the main hub of the region. The city is set amongst the Kyushu Mountains as well as the clear, pristine waters of the Kuma River, one of Japan's three swiftest rivers. The Kawabe River is one of the main tributaries and has been awarded Japan’s most beautiful water fifteen years in a row.
Diverse terrain, a challenging climate and contrasting temperature fluctuations have resulted in rich soil, making the area fertile ground for rice production. The harvested rice is used for premium Kuma Shochu, which has a rich history, dating back 470 years, and uses techniques similar to how shochu was originally made (the wellknown imo -based shochu became popular within the last 250 years). It differs from sake as it is distilled rather than just fermented, so there’s less chance the alcohol going
bad—important as Kuma Valley experiences subtropical climates and warm summers.
Shochu uses koji mold and yeast fungus. The koji is added to steamed rice, then turned into moromi (fermenting mash) by adding clean, locally-sourced water and yeast. The steamed rice and water is added again for the second mash to be further fermented (called the “two-stage fermentation”), increasing the alcohol content. Finally the mash is distilled.
The results of the process will vary in flavors depending on how it is distilled. With vacuum distillation, the lid is tightly closed on the still and air is vacuumed out from within using a pump. The pressure inside the still and the boiling point of its contents decreases. When heat is applied, chemical reactions occur in the moromi and the aromas and flavors are removed, resulting in a mild, light and refreshing shochu. It pairs
introduces what shochu is all about; the basic history, distilling process as well as some stops at other tourist attractions.
The tour starts at Ayu no Sato, a traditional inn led by the hospitable Yumi Arimura, a shochu connoisseur passionate about sharing the bounties of the Kuma Valley.
for 700 years. History (or movie) buffs will recognize Oikami Shrine, which was the site of the Satsuma Rebellion battles that were the inspiration for the movie, “The Last Samurai.” Finally, stop for tea or shop for shoyu (soy sauce) and miso at the picturesque and historic Kajiyamachi street.
well with simple ingredients, such as seasonal vegetables and pasta.
With atmospheric distillation, the spirits are distilled at normal atmospheric pressure where the boiling point of water is 100°C. Under intense pressure, various substances are extracted from the moromi and produce a rich aroma and depth to the shochu. This pairs well with strong, distinct flavors, like red meat, spare ribs and miso -based dishes.
Shochu is stored in earthenware pots and kept for long periods of time, some more than three years. Some shochu are aged in oak casks, resulting in a whisky-like taste. This goes well with grilled unagi (eel), nuts, ice cream and chocolate.
For travelers interested in shochu culture, there’s a half-day walking tour that
The first distillery you’ll visit is Jufuku Distillery, a small craft distillery led by the Yoshimatsu family. They adhere to the traditional style of distilling with the process all being done by hand. The current master distiller, Ryota, is 5th generation Yoshimatsu and, at 38-years-old, one of the youngest shochu distillers in Japan. His passion for the art is contagious but he admits that his shochu isn’t for everyone.
“I make shochu that I enjoy drinking, with rich, deep and complex flavors. If other people enjoy this style too, then great,” says Ryota.
Step back in time at Sengetsu Distillery where you can see an old still that uses a distillation technique from ancient times. Here, you can take a break from walking and relax a their foot bath, then sample (and purchase) different types of shochu at Ichigoya, a store selling their wares.
Other notable attractions are Mikatsuki Castle, offering views of Hitoyoshi on a clear day. The castle was home to the Sagara clan, the daimyo clan which ruled the region
For those wanting to dive deeper into the shochu world, there’s a full-day tour that drives travelers to harder-to-access distilleries. The tour visits Nasu Shuzo for a hands-on nijishikomi experience, part of a two-step fermentation process where cooked rice is transferred to a cooling tray, then to clay pots and mixed in with the ichijishikomi (first brew). At Hayashi Shuzo, visit a historic 400-year-old storage room preserved since the Edo Period to learn about blending, mixing different vintages and types of shochu to create the desired flavor.
The tour also offers a historic glimpse into the Kuma Valley, stopping at the remains of Takayama Castle’s watchtower, the site of one of the Sagara clans, which offers views over the valley.
Otake Jutaku is a well-preserved samurai residence that shows visitors how people
lived during the Edo Period. For lunch, enjoy local wild game, locally raised chicken and mountain vegetables enjoyed, of course, with shochu . The venue is held at unique spots like a refurbished greenhouse or Chanomi, a farm-to-table cafe nestled in tea fields.
While shochu is often enjoyed straight, on the rocks, kan (heated) and mizu-wari or oyu-wari (with water and ice or hot water), several local bars have been creating craft cocktails, such as the bar at Ayu no Sato ryokan v
Getting There
Hitoyoshi City is accessible via bus from Kagoshima Airport, with one transfer at Hitoyoshi IC Jokoguchi. There is also a bus from Kumamoto Airport. Kagoshima Airport is connected to around 20 destinations nationwide including Tokyo and Osaka. Tours start at the Ayu no Sato traditional inn, located in the heart of Hitoyoshi and right next to the Kuma River. The tours run year round, but the best time to visit is between November to June during brewing season.
Booking & Inquiries
To book your experience or learn more, contact the Ayunosato Tour Concierge. Ayunosato Tour Concierge
Tel: (0966) 22-2171
(From Overseas: +81-966-22-2171)
E-mail: discover.hitoyoshi@gmail.com
Web: ayunosato.jp/en/
Tohoku is Japan's Last Frontier—the true path less traveled. Hiking and
