Outdoor Japan Traveler | Issue 86 | Spring 2023

PUBLISHER

Outdoor Japan G.K.

DIRECTORS

Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson

FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Gardner Robinson

MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR

Rie Miyoshi

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Bill Ross

CONTRIBUTORS

Quinlan Faris, Daniel Moore, Chiara Terzuolo, Derek Yamashita

DESIGN

Outdoor Japan

OUTDOOR JAPAN G.K.

45 Yubiso, Minakami-machi, Tone-gun, Gunma-ken 〒 379-1728

EDITORIAL INQUIRIES editor@outdoorjapan.com

VIDEO / MEDIA PRODUCTION media@outdoorjapan.com

SPONSORSHIP / PROMOTIONS media@outdoorjapan.com

DESTINATION MARKETING media@outdoorjapan.com

@outdoorjapan

From the Editor

Japan is back in business! It was an incredibly busy winter as travelers returned in and accommodation for their guests. And it appears the pent-up desire for destinations and parks in search of cherry blossoms. If you missed them in Tokyo or Osaka good news is you can ride the pink wave north and enjoy some hanami in some beautiful local destinations.

News recently broke that the current border control measures, which include departure, will end on May 8, perhaps not soon enough for Golden Week travelers, but still another step forward to normalizing activities and travel in Japan. While we doubt Japan locals will be burning their masks anytime soon, it has been refreshing seeing so many foreign travelers walking around mask-free and a small, but growing, number of Japanese people loosening up their mask strings as well.

More and more events have been added to the calendar, including the GoPro Water Games, which is back in Honshu’s adventure Mecca—Minakami, Gunma. athletes compete while joining some of the canyoning, rafting, river surfing or stand-up paddling along Minakami’s lakes and reservoirs. It’s a great area for glamping, camping, MTB or hiking if you want to stay dry.

Craft beer festivals are back with a vengeance as well and those who prefer cider

promoting craft cider in Japan and is behind the event, which will showcase many akiya or kominka and living the inaka life. Find out more in our interview with Kominka Japan founder Stuart Galbraith IV.

For centuries, after the snow melts and the hills and valleys slowly turn from white to green, people begin foraging for sansai

Quinlan Faris has been joining the hunt for years and takes us along to show us a new adventure in Japan, and spring provides the unique opportunity to enjoy a birds-eye view—while kayaking—of a forest. Derek Yamashita visits the submerged forest of Ide, only possible for short time each spring, in his latest feature, and shares where travelers can catch some late season cherry blossoms in Tohoku.

We take a trip on the wild side from Kansai out west to Kochi down south for some great hiking, rafting, canyoning, local craft breweries and more. Nearer to Tokyo, we explore the history and hiking trails in Hakone while stopping by a local take another short escape from the capital to the seaside town of Katsuura, Chiba. It’s a quick 90-minute trip by car or train from Tokyo but it might as well be a world away once you get your feet in the sand, paddle out to the surf, or motor out on a boat tour of the beautiful coastline.

We hope readers enjoy the latest issue and wish everyone health, happiness and adventure this spring. Be sure to visit Outdoor Japan Online and follow us @outdoorjapan for more features, events and updates throughout the season.

Robinson Editor-in-Chief

Cover Photo: GoPro Water Games Minakami

APRIL 21 - 23

Aichi Prefectural Citizens' Forest, Shinshiro Aichi

kominkajapan.org

Kominka Japan is proud to host a series of talks, panel discussions, and DIY workshops & demonstrations with some of the world’s most respected Japanologists, craftspeople, architects, traditional carpenters, sustainability and community-building experts, and minka enthusiasts - as well as an exciting 'Minka Mall' featuring a range of artisan shops, informative minka-related booths, food, music, and more!

https://k minkasu Register

Minka Summit 2023 is presented by Kominka Japan, with generous local logistical support from Japan Kominka Association’s International Office, Aichi Kominka Association, and Inakakurashitai, an Okumikawa-based NPO

GUIDE LINES Spring Events

SPOTLIGHTS

Japan Cider Cup 2023

Come celebrate the most popular ciders in Japan country’s premier international cider tasting event and competition featuring vendors from across the country as well as special guest Right Bee Cider from Chicago, Illinois. Entry is free; food, craft cider, craft beer, wine, and souvenir purchases can be made on the day. Doors open at 11 a.m. and close at 6 p.m. Follow along @japancidercup or check website for event details.

When: April 22

Where: Tama Mirai Messe, Hachioji, Tokyo Web: japancidercup.com

GoPro Water Games Minakami

Get up close to the world-renowned rapids of the Tone River at the GoPro Water Games Minakami, a white water competition where Japan's top athletes show off their skills. New for 2023 is a flat water competition that will also be held on the nearby lake.

When: June 3-4

Where: Minakami, Gunma Web: mofest.jp

MUSIC FESTIVALS

Rainbow Disco Club

Enjoying camping and dance music in the subtropical Izu Peninsula for a three-day party to kick off Golden Week.

Sea to Summit Montbell—Japan’s largest homegrown outdoor brand—is behind the popular Sea to Summit race series. Their goal is to invigorate local areas, holding events to experience nature through two days of canoeing, cycling and trekking. This year they are hosting the series across twelve locations around Japan.

When and Where:

May 27-28: Daisen, Tottori

June 10-11: Etajima, Hiroshima

June 17-18: Okhotsk, Hokkaido

July 15-16: Itoigawa/Joetsu/Myoko, Niigata

July 1-2: Bizen, Okayama

July 22-23: Gassan, Yamagata

Aug. 19-20: Asahidake, Hokkaido

Aug. 26-27: Mt. Chokai, Yamagata

Oct. 7-8: Kamimachi, Miyagi

Oct. 14-15: Chikuma River, Nagano Web: seatosummit.jp

When: April 29 - May 1

Where: Higashi-izu, Shizuoka Web: rainbowdiscoclub.com

Japan Jam

If you’re staying in town for Golden Week, check out this almost-week-long festival in Chiba City.

When: Apr. 30 & May 3-6

Where: Chiba City, Chiba Web: japanjam.jp

Fuji & Sun Camp and enjoy live music at the foot of Mt Fuji in a relaxed, open-air space.

When: May 13-14

Where: Fuji, Shizuoka Web: fjsn.jp

Aco Chill Camp

If you missed Fuji & Sun, check out this camping festival also held near Mt. Fuji. BBQ sets available.

When: May 20-21

Where: Gotemba, Shizuoka Web: acochill.com

Hakuba Yoo-hoo! Festival

This mountaintop festival lets you enjoy the best of Hakuba’s green season. Enjoy a weeklong festival with music, camping, hot air balloon rides, a trail run, fitness workshops and yoga. Held at Hakuba Iwatake Mountain Resort, this festival works with Protect Our Winters Japan to raise awareness of environmental conservation.

When: May 20–28

Where: Hakuba, Nagano Web: iwatake-mountain-resort.com

Greenroom Festival

This annual surf and beach lifestyle festival is back at the Yokohama seaside. Check the website artist updates.

When: May 27-29

Where: Yokohama, Kanagawa Web: greenroom.jp

Go Out Camp Inawashiro

Enjoy the start of summer at this lakeside getaway with live music, camping, food booths and a market.

When: June 2-4

Where: Inawashiro, Fukushima Web: gooutcamp.jp/inawashiro

The Camp Book 2023

Fujimi Kogen Ski Resort transforms into an outdoor stage for this camp and music festival. The event is set against the peaks of Yatsugatake and easily accessible by car from Tokyo.

When: June 10-11

Where: Fujimi, Nagano Web: the-camp-book.com/2022

Fuji Rock

Some artists have been announced and early bird tickets are already available for Japan’s most iconic music festival. Stay at a nearby lodge or hotel or camp out for the three-day event.

When: July 29-31

Where: Naeba, Niigata Web: fujirockfestival.com

RACES & EVENTS

Ultra-Trail Mt. Fuji

This 100-mile course along mountain trails, local footpaths and forest roads around the foothills of Mt. Fuji while experiencing the natural beauty and culture around Japan’s most famous mountain.

When: Apr. 21-23

Where: Fuji, Shizuoka / Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi Web: ultratrailmtfuji.com

Sendai International Half Marathon

This popular race starts at Sendai Station and passes through Nishi Koen Park and Jozenji Avenue.

When: May 8

Where: Sendai Web: sendaihalf.com

Minakami Trail Race

The nature-abundant Minakami Biosphere Reserve is the setting for this race, which is divided into four divisions: the 100k, 80k, 40k and 20k.

When: May 13-14

Where: Minakami, Gunma Web: gon-ff.com/?p=2694

Spartan Race Super 10K in Chiba

This 25-obstacle race blends speed, endurance and technical skill. A 5K sprint and a kids race are also available.

When: May 26

Where: Sodegaura, Chiba Web: spartanrace.jp

16th Skyline Trail Sugadaira

This beginner-friendly trail run is a great way to enjoy the cooling Shinshu area and springtime in the alpine region.

When: May 28

Where: Sugadaira Kogen, Nagano Web: sugadaira-trail.jp

Togakushi Mountain Trail

Navigate your way through this ancient forest in the mystical ninja town of Togakushi. There are four challenges: the long course vertical run and kids run.

When: June 4

Where: Togakushi, Nagano Web: nature-scene.net/tmt

48 hoursin Katsuura, Chiba

Chiba’s stunning seaside town of Katsuura is considered one of the best coastal destinations in the Kanto Region. It is close enough to Tokyo for day trips, but give yourself a couple nights back and dive deeper.

Just two hours after departing Japan’s capital, and the mass of humanity brushing shoulders against one another in Tokyo Station, you emerge from an entirely different environment at Chiba’s Katsuura Station. Your pulse will immediately slow down as you stroll around the traditional fishing town, yet just beyond the station, adventure awaits—such as marine and outdoor scuba diving, surfing and stand up paddle boarding. If you want to take it slow, don’t miss out on the fresh seafood, local markets or a relaxing soak in one of the local spas. Or if you want to ease into your two-day urban escape, simply lounge on the beach to the chorus of waves and sea birds as you consider your next moves.

DAY 1

Boat trips, spicy ramen, beach exploring

After you arrive by train, bus or car from Tokyo to Katsuura in as little as 90 minutes, stop located just a five-minute walk from the train station. Grab some maps or rent an E-bike and begin exploring the town.

Once you get the lay of the land, one of the best places to start your getaway is at Seafari Japan tour company that offers more than eight ocean

beauty and wildlife, while your guide provides insights into the natural history of Katsuura. Other adventures include fishing, snorkeling, banana boats and full charter options.

Seafari Japan is located just 10 minutes by

offered in multiple languages. They cater for all ages and group sizes with everything provided— even woolly hats in winter.

After a couple of hours on the water exploring the Katsuura coastline, you will have worked up quite an appetite.

no better cure for an empty stomach than local favorite, tantanmen ramen. There are plenty of local restaurants that serve this famous spicy ramen, but, Ragtime Bar & Restaurant , with its stunning view of Hebara Beach and famous surf breaks is well worth the 15-20 minute bike ride.

Spend the afternoon surfing, swimming, exploring or just soaking up the rays then— just before the sun begins to set—head to Eden Spa & Restaurant (just 10 minutes

stunning infinity pool. It’s a great place to unwind and relax while enjoying the sunset over the ocean with friends and family.

After you soak, when you are fully relaxed, wander downstairs and grab a table at the Spanish-inspired restaurant. The menu embraces local organic produce while allowing you to taste the wonders of the Mediterranean, specializing in paella, tapas, and ajillo served with freshly baked homemade focaccia bread.

Katsuura has a range of accommodation from AirBnB properties and Japanese pensions to large-scale hotels. For a cozy beachfront bed and breakfast option, check out Splash Guest House, which sits right on the sand with a nifty little surf break out front and a glorious sunrise view. The Japanese and English couple are gracious hosts and also provide rental surf gear and surf lessons.

DAY 2

Epic sunrise, morning market and a SUP lesson all before lunchtime

If you are staying overnight in Katsuura make the effort to get out of bed early so you don’t miss a chance to enjoy the

famous sunrise. The sun slowly rising up out of the Pacific Ocean to start

free food for the soul.

Katsuura Asaichi (morning years and is one of the largest morning markets in Japan. It’s here the community gathers each morning to sell fresh local produce, including fresh fish and veggies, and it is a great place to meet locals who are always keen for a chat even if you don’t speak the same language. The market opens every day at 6:30 a.m. and is busiest on weekends. It is closed Wednesdays.

Perk up with a cup of freshly brewed coffee from the market’s famous Spice Coffee Stand and enjoy some local treats while taking a refreshing stroll on the quiet road at the foot of the temple. Next ascend the 60 stone steps to Tomasaki Shrine to enjoy a panorama view of Katsuura town and coastline. This is

where they bless the Inori-dama (wishing famous ocean torii Hirashima Island for good luck.

Chiba has some of Kanto’s most pristine beaches along its extensive coastline and Katsuura boasts some of the best: Ubara, Moriya and Okitsu to name a few.

After enjoying the sunrise and a stroll through the market there is still plenty of time to get back in the water. You have a number of water activities to choose from in Katsuura from surfing, snorkeling and fishing to tubing or wake foiling behind a boat. If you are looking for something

fun and challenging and have never tried stand-up paddling, join a SUP lesson at Malibu Point . This cool local surf shop is just 10 minutes on the bike from the station or the morning market and offers SUP lessons. Be sure to say hello to the adorable turtle that resides in the backyard.

If you have time for one last stop before catching your train back to reality, pop into Ari Jewelry and exercise your creativity as you build your own oneof-a-kind jewelry by combining stones, gems and trinkets of your choosing to make a masterpiece for yourself—or as a gift for a loved one.

As you settle into your seat back to Tokyo close your eyes and look back at how much you managed to pack into the last forty-eight hours, then begin envisioning your next trip to discover more of of what Katsuura has to offer.

Getting there

By Train:

By Car: Take the Shuto Expressway to the Aqualine then get off at the IchiharaTsurumai I.C. and follow Route 297 all the

ADDITIONAL INFO

Check out the Katsuura Special in the Travel & Adventure Directory for listings of Katsuura tour and travel companies. Enjoy the Katsuura Video at outdoorjapan. com/video/ or at facebook.com/ OutdoorJapan/ videos and be sure to follow Discover Katsuura at instagram. com/discoverkatsuura

The Submerged Forests of Iide

BY DEREK YAMASHITA

travelers to discover. One hidden destination that has recently been buzzing

Imagine gliding over clear water among a lush green forest that you soon discover emerges from deep below the surface. This surreal phenomena is the result of a unique collaboration between the local farmers of the town of Iide and Mother Nature herself. In preparation for the planting season of the vast rice fields in the valley below, the local dams in the mountains swell to their capacity with freshly melted snow until it’s time to release mineral-rich water later in May.

During this brief one month period while these reservoirs are full with fresh meltwater, sections of parks and forests surrounding the dams are submerged. The water is released before any damage can occur to these trees, but during this spring period travelers can experience what is quickly becoming a popular draw for outdoor enthusiasts in Tohoku, enjoying a view of the forests normally reserved for the birds.

After a short refresher session with the kayak guides, I headed out into the lake and was dazzled by the willow trees that seemed to emerge out of nowhere from the crystal clear water. Following my guide, we charted a course through the forest rich in fresh green colors, serenaded by the sounds of spring as dozens of birds flew through the tree branches. The view of the deeply submerged natural canopy is surreal as mirror. It’s an unforgettable image.

This seemingly impossible sight made gliding through these forests like something out of a dream. As we made our way to a clearing in the forest, we floated over a bridge with the railing visible just under the water. The guide explained that normally there is a river that flows many meters beneath this bridge, giving us a sense of just how high the waters were in parts of the forest.

After making our way out of the forest and onto the main lake, we returned back to shore after the unforgettable 90-minute kayaking experience. As much as I love the beauty of the cherry blossoms that bloom around the same of the submerged forests of Iide leaves an equally long-lasting impression. tours.

One such group, the Iide Canoe Club, is a local operator that offers kayaking experiences on the lake above the Shirakawa Dam during the green season, with special tours of the submerged Iide forests. After hearing about it at bars and during hikes with friends, I signed up for one of their

Essential Info

When to Go

The window for this experience, while brief, is fortunately very predictable thanks to the human elements involved. Starting at the end of March, the submerged forests can be seen until early May when the water begins to drain and kayaking quickly becomes impossible in the forests.

Visiting in April is recommended to account for unpredictable weather and to ensure you see the forests when the willow trees have leaves in bloom. An early to mid-April visit will also pair nicely with the cherry blossoms which bloom at the same time (each year is slightly different so be sure to check dams reach peak levels from April to May. For more detailed information on booking tours visit thehiddenjapan/ iide-canoe

Getting There

The easiest way to get to the area is a 2.5 hour ride on the Yamagata Shinkansen from Tokyo Station directly to Akayu Station. From here you can take a local train to Teneko Station followed by a short taxi ride to the dam. There is also plenty of free parking at the Shirakawa Dam for those who can drive there directly.

Places to Stay

Shirakawa Dam has a mountain lodge right next to the lake which offers lodging, breakfast, lunch and dinner options. Guests looking to take advantage of Yamagata’s many natural hot springs may also opt for a luxurious stay at onsen ryokan in Akayu Onsen or Kaminoyama Onsen, which are nearby the lake.

Empty House Problem

INTERVIEW WITH STUART GALBRAITH IV

BY GARDNER ROBINSON

The Japanese word "kominka" literally means "old house," and the term usually refers to houses built before World War II. If you’ve traveled outside Japan’s major urban areas you are aware there is no shortage of old houses in the Japanese countryside. Over the past several years the pandemic has led many in search of a place to call home, a renovation project or a retreat. As this reverse urbanization movement has slowly gained traction as remote work has increased and people’s priorities have changed, a traditional Japanese home in the mountains seems almost too good to be true—and it often is. Japan’s unique landscape and climate means there’s a lot to consider from humidity to heavy snow fall, to learning how to be a good neighbor and harmoniously coexisting in a rural community. But it’s also extremely rewarding.

A passionate group of likeminded foreign and Japanese residents came together to address the gradual, ongoing disappearance of traditional Japanese architecture in Japan. Their stated mission is to preserve this heritage and help turn abandoned houses

into homes by connecting with earnest people and helping them acquire, renovate, maintain and preserve these traditional Japanese buildings for generations to come.

inexpensive akiya have generated enormous interest in kominka founder Stuart Galbraith IV, who lives in a 213-year-old minka he purchased in 2016.

upward trend of foreign residents, and some Japanese, buying akiya -type minka across the Japanese countryside, restoring and

After a successful inaugural Minka Summit in 2022, the 2023 Minka Summit will take place Apr. 21-23, 2023 at the Aichi Prefecture Citizens’ Forest. Outdoor Japan talked to Galbraith Kominka Japan about what’s in store for participants at this year’s gathering.

For the uninitiated, what’s the difference between akiya, minka and kominka?

Akiya could be an old house, new house, apartment building, condominium or just about

Minka usually refer to old, traditionally-built farmhouses, typically pre-war or older, though some consider those built much more recently as minka if they at least in part incorporate traditional building methods. I prefer to think Machiya , the more urban townhouses famously found in Kyoto, are technically considered minka as well.

Where did the momentum come from to

The first Summit began when the size of the Kominka Japan Facebook page grew exponentially in 2021. It was initially conceived as a informal gathering of 25-50 people—little more than a weekend cookout with a look inside some local minka and perhaps some casual chats. However, as interest grew, it became more of an event, with about a dozen guest speakers, Minka minka -related businesses and organizations, as well as tours of 15 local minka

Minka kominka ko kominka minka

How much did the pandemic play into the growth of the Kominka Japan community?

I don’t think it was the pandemic directly, or nearly-free akiya in Japan, which spurred a lot of interest. However, the pandemic also underscored the realization that, for many people, it was practical—even desirable—to work from home. And, if you can work from home, why not live somewhere affordable and nice, especially for families raising children?

What were some of the important lots foreign residents passionate, and often very skilled and knowledgeable, about minka There’s growing interest among Japanese, too, but I think foreign residents—perhaps because we are often less cautious—are more likely to take the plunge and buy a minka and try to do as much of the restoration work we can. I think foreign residents are often passionate about becoming involved in rural community revitalization, starting small businesses like micro-breweries and organic farming as well.

The Summit itself far exceeded everyone’s expectations in terms of quality, attendance and so forth. We were happy with how it turned out and attendees, guest speakers, minka mall participants, and the local area that hosted the event seemed pleased as well. We’re smoothing out some logistics and looking forward to building on it.

How have you seen interest and demand change in the past year?

I would say interest in akiya and minka is growing but also the number of people jumping into it without, perhaps, full awareness of what they’re getting themselves minka in rural Japan can be a wonderful, life-changing experience—it has been for me, my wife and daughter—but it’s not for everyone, it’s a lot of work and a big commitment.

What’s new for participants at the 2023 Minka Summit?

While we will again have a range of talks and DIY workshops, a Minka Mall, Minka Tours, a Meet & Greet Dinner and a Keynote Dinner, there is much that will be new this year. One addition is a Writers’ Talk Corner featuring internationally acclaimed authors Alex Kerr, Karen Hill Anton, Azby Brown, and

Hannah Kirshner. The summit will start a bit we will have a sustainable forestry guided walk, followed by a yakisugi demonstration, as well as a tour of minka that will focus on interesting interiors.

The Minka Mall will again be full of interesting things to see and do, from booths with displays and information from NPOs and grassroots groups working to preserve minka , to others selling artisan clothing, kumiko puzzles, antiques, beautiful accessories made from tatami products, furniture made from recycled minka wood and much more. For handson experiences, there will again be a wonderful mini- minka frame-raising activity and ceremony for children and some fantastic sessions for adults, from making kimono and washi -covered panels to a demonstration of restoring tsuchikabe (mud people of all ages.

What advice would you give someone interested in purchasing a kominka?

I think the best way is to travel around then plant yourself in a rental house for a couple of months. You can usually find a great house to rent for ¥40,000 a month

six-to-12 months if you can to give yourself

time to get to know the community and for them to get to know you. Once they learn you are looking for a nice minka to live in, chances are they will bend over backward to help you, and that’s how you’ll hear about great minka available that aren’t listed with any real estate agencies.

What are common misconceptions people have when considering a kominka?

I think those considering buying a minka as a vacation home need to consider that minka can require 20-30 hours a week in upkeep; you don’t want to spend your vacation time cleaning up, pulling weeds and cutting grass, dealing with animal infestations, shoveling snow and the like. Also, much more so than living in the city, maintaining good relationships

with neighbors in a small village is really critical. If you’re not around most of the year it’s very hard to do that. It’s a much bigger commitment of time and energy than many people realize. I’ve seen a couple of people make it work, but it’s not easy. What’s been most rewarding about your kominka experience?

All of it, genuinely. I could rattle off 20 ways our lives have improved since we got our minka in 2016. Perhaps the most rewarding is that our daughter has enjoyed a much richer school life. Her elementaryjunior high school, typical of rural Japan, is much smaller, nicer and more intimate than big city ones. In her grade she had only four other classmates, which meant that she got a lot more of her teachers’ undivided attention than she would at a big city school. She’s been able to enjoy nature a lot more directly

because it’s all around her; the students even go skiing regularly during the winter because it’s right down the road. Any other perks?

Beyond the satisfaction of taking an old minka on its last legs and restoring it and making it alive again with activity, living somewhat remotely puts one in a position where you pick up a lot of skills you didn’t know you were capable of. Through the Facebook page, our website, the Mnika Summit, as well as the scads of DIY videos on YouTube and elsewhere, as well as other skills like sustainable gardening, beekeeping — all kinds of things. I spend a lot more time outside working on various projects than I ever did living in apartments or suburban homes.

Minka Summit 2023

N/A

Children (12 and under) Free Free ¥1,000

ACCESS

Aichi Prefecture Citizens’ Forest is a 15-minute walk from MikawaToyohashi is 1 hour 20 minutes by Hikari Shinkansen. From Osaka, Toyohashi 1 hour 32 minutes by Hikari Shinkansen. The venue is easily accessible by car from the Shin-Tomei and San-en Nanshin Expressways, by highway buses from Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya that stop at the nearby Mokkuru Roadside Station.

TICKETS & ADDITIONAL INFO

E-mail support is available for those who have any questions or concerns need info on places to stay or more. There will be English/ Japanese interpreting for all presentations and workshops as well as in the Minka Mall and Minka Tours. The event is open to the public and tickets are available on Peatix or at the door. For more information visit the Kominka Japan website at kominkajapan.org and search for the Kominka Japan Facebook Group to join the community.

SpringSansai

BY QUINLAN FARIS sansai !

Foraging for wild greens, known as sansai ( 山菜 of Japanese culture and tradition since modern humans first began inhabiting the archipelago. During the Paleolithic Era, people all over the world were foragers, but in Japan foraging culture continued to develop and be passed down through the generations, remaining largely intact even in this postmodern era. Every spring, tens of thousands of people put on long rubber boots and walk up narrow mountain streams picking dozens of varieties of wild greens.

I was introduced to foraging back in 2011 in the mountains of Iwate in a small hot-spring town called Hanamaki. In fact I met a local man, Haruo, outside a hot spring ryokan carrying a basket of wild greens and asked him about them. He kindly offered to show me where I could find them in the mountains and how to cook them. I’ve been going foraging with

Giant butterbur or fuki ( フキ

snow melts, these little green heads start poking up out of the ground everywhere. These bake they’re called locally when young, are prepared as tempura or mashed up and

mixed with miso to form a paste that is fully mature, these fuki grow into a thickstemmed broad-leafed plant that looks like rhubarb.

In this latter stage, the stems become fragrant and very tasty. They are boiled or salt-pickled and served throughout the year at ryokan and traditional restaurants. Fuki have been treasured by people in Japan for thousands of years. The indigenous Ainu people of Hokkaido even have a legend about a goddess who was punished for destroying a human village by being transformed into fuki the people and atone for her crimes. Fiddleheads, or kogomi ( コゴミ not as easy to gather. Every spring we go deep into the Ou Mountains to the northwest of Hanamaki, wading across fronds of ostrich ferns explode up from the ground in moist soil near mountain streams and are one of the most sought after delicacies in early spring. They often hide under piles of dead leaves inexperienced, they’re rather confusing to identify.

only a few varieties are edible. When I

take visitors foraging with us, they an hour or so of trial and error they get the hang of identifying them.

Picking them isn’t without danger, however. Often growing right nearby are clumps of torikabuto, known as monkshood in English. If you accidentally grab just a few leaves or part of the torikabuto stem and mix it in with your haul, it will be the end of you! Torikabuto is responsible for a number of accidental deaths in Japan every couple years and has even been used in a few murders! The Ainu were familiar with this lethal plant and ground up the roots—where most of the poison is concentrated—making a paste they

poisoned their arrows with. Torikabuto but during the spring foraging season it is more difficult to identify and can be mistaken for an edible plant. That’s one reason why you should only forage with a guide or seasoned veteran.

After the ferns have all opened and the fiddlehead season ends, the next wave is actually my favorite—the twin tara-no-me and koshiabura. These gifts from heaven don’t have any correlates in the West, and thus lack English

of new leaves growing from trees that initially are tightly clumped together as they sprout. These trees grow quickly

and can be found in a lot of forests that have been logged in recent decades, giving fast-growing young trees a chance to spread. You have seen them along the edge of ski slopes for the same reason.

Tara-no-me are among the most widely recognized and eaten mountain vegetables, and are almost always made into tempura. It has a subtle bitterness and great texture. Koshiabura, my personal favorite, is also mostly enjoyed as tempura but can be paired with salted meat as well. The leaves have a fragrant aroma and unmistakable flavor, also slightly bitter, that is immediately addictive. If you’re in Japan during April or May, you’ll likely izakaya and restaurants as seasonal tempura.

Foraging in Japan can be somewhat dangerous, even beyond the risk of accidentally poisoning yourself. Most bear attacks in Japan happen not to hikers, but rather foragers. In the spring, when most people are out foraging, bears are also stumbling out of hibernation, often with cubs that haven’t yet learned to avoid humans. People foraging for nemagari-take (bamboo

Bears love to eat these tasty snacks as well, and rummaging through thick bamboo grass with no visibility has on countless occasions resulted in a forager literally bumping right into a bear and being punished for it.

About theAuthor

As more and more people move out of the countryside into the cities, fewer young people are continuing the tradition. Recently, various places in Japan have begun offering foraging tours to allow visitors a chance to both go out into the bush with guides and then take part in the preparation of a meal with the gathered greens, particularly in Yamagata, Akita and Iwate. As with many aspects of rural culture, tourism may be able to serve some small role in helping to spark interest in continuing ancient traditions. Most Japanese people my age that I speak with about foraging just say that their parents do it. Hopefully their children will too.

Quinlan Faris has been living in Japan for more than 20 years, the last 12 in the wilds of the north. He is based in Morioka, Iwate, where he wears a variety of hats— working as a guide, inbound tourism advisor, narrator, and video creator—all while running a small Airbnb out of the local volcano, hiking through a storm or foraging for wild edibles along a mountain stream to feed his Airbnb guests or entertain his YouTube subscribers. Follow his adventures at youtube.com/c/GoNorthJapan and on Instagram @quinlan

Three Days

Exploring Hakone's Trails

BY DANIEL MOORE

Hakone is best known for stunning views of Mt. Fuji and luxurious hot spring ryokan. Many visitors do day trips to this popular resort area and hit the hot

is walking the extensive network of hiking trails.

Those who lace up their walking shoes will be rewarded with close-up views of Mt. Fuji, Hakone has fascinating history and geology. As the bestpreserved post town on the Tokaido Road, it allows visitors to feel like they are making an Edoperiod pilgrimage. For a new perspective on Hakone, stay longer - and travel on foot.

Day 1: Hakone Hachiri

Yumoto Hakone is a famous hot spring village at the entrance to the mountainous Hakone Region. The station is only an 1.5 hours from central Tokyo, but the elevated scenery and fresh air make it feel much further away. Hakone Yumoto Station is also the starting point for hikers wanting to delve deeper into Hakone’s natural landscape on their own two feet. Be sure to stop by the tourist information center when you arrive to grab an English area map.

The guide for our three-day adventure is Kaneko Shin, a Hakone native who runs Explore Hakone. He loves explaining the local history and culture to visitors. I immediately learn historical tidbits and interesting facts that only a guide's knowledge can endow, and I am glad for the opportunity to ask questions. His English is excellent, and we quickly start chatting about Hakone's quirky uniqueness.

From Hakone Yumoto Station, there are frequent buses whisking visitors to various starting points on the trail, depending on their hiking ability. Another option is to start walking from the station. There are plenty of shrines, temples, cedar-lined avenues and historical markers to explore, no matter where you begin. We take the bus

for a few minutes, then walk up a beautiful traditional cobblestone road.

If you are interested in local crafts, check out the Yosegi Zaiku woodwork shops in Hatajuku post town. Yosegi is a traditional Japanese art form that creates beautiful wood patterns. The shops offer souvenirs or Yosegi experiences to make your own.

The highlights of the day was Amasake Chaya. This teahouse began 400 years ago in the Edo Period, serving travelers on the old Tokaido Road. Amazake means sweet sake and refers to the sweet, non-alcoholic drink made from sake production's leftovers, called sake kasu. They still make amazake the same way they have for centuries, the only ingredients are rice and water. The original Edo-era building was rebuilt about 15 years ago and is a great place to rest, grab a bite and enjoy the authentic teahouse experience.

Yamamoto Satoshi is the head of the business and the 13th generation owner is preserving the customs and recipes his family created over centuries. He takes time away from his busy schedule

to explain the amazake process and why he loves his work. He knows his ancestors are watching him from above and wants to make them proud. He also enjoys watching visitors try amazake for the first time, putting a smile on their faces. Undoubtedly, this ometenashi hospitality has allowed the family business to last through the centuries.

Departing Amasake Chaya, a winding trail descends through the forest to ago, Mt. Hakone's volcanic eruption formed the crater lake. From Ashinoko, a short bus ride takes us to Hoeiso, a traditional Japanese ryokan, and tonight's accommodation. The owner proudly demonstrates the gigantic German-designed pellet stove that exclusively uses wood from Yamanashi Prefecture, allowing them to lower energy use. The traditional kaiseki meals here are delicious and the views of the roaring river below from the garden and outdoor bath (heated by wrap up the day.

Web Connection

Explore Hakone explore-hakone.com

Yosegi Zaiku: hakone-japan.com/yosegizaiku/ Amasake Chaya: amasake-chaya.jp / hakonenavi.jp/ international/en/spot/586

Hoeso: www.hoeiso.jp/

Hakone Yumoto Google Maps: google.com/maps/ @35.2331899,139.1040483,21z

Day 2: The Outer Rim

After a delicious ryokan breakfast, it is time for the hike. There are a few different choices depending on the hiking level of your group. One option is to walk along the shoreline and

Although trail maintenance is lacking in some areas, it is a moderate hike with panoramic views of the lake and Mt. Fuji on a clear day.

Our group decides to to take another route, the Ashinoko Skyline Trail. This 13-kilometer hike is moderately challenging with more vertical. However, the trail has multiple scenic locations to stop and take in the views of Mt. Fuji. One sign of civilization that creeps into the serenity of this trail is the distant audible pounding sound of Japan's self-defense force practice maneuvers. Japan is a contrast of the ancient and the modern this is a stark reminder Hakone is no exception.

On either hike, bring an o-bento because there are few places in the mountains to purchase food

near the Togendai Ropeway Station. There is bus or ropeway access to the Gora area from here.

Web Connection

Lake Ashi Trail: alltrails.com/trail/japan/ kanagawa/lake-ashi-trail

Ashinoko Skyline Trail: alltrails.com/trail/ japan/kanagawa/ashinoko-skyline-trail

Hotel Indigo: hakonegora.hotelindigo.com

Day 3: The Yusaka Trail

The Yusaka Trail is a pre-Tokugawa Shogunate road developed after the eruption of Mt. Fuji in 802. Even though it is just miles away from the previous two days of walks, the open grassland makes it feel like an entirely new area. Because it was unused, little of the history or structures remain, and it feels more remote than the populated Tokaido Road. Still, there are remnants of human presence here, including the remains of a castle and various Bodhisattva Buddhas that have been dug into the mountain. Summiting Mt. Sengen and visiting Chisuji Falls are some of the trail's highlights.

The last stop on the hike is Hakone Yuryo, a hot spring day spa and restaurant near Hakone Yumoto Station. Hiking in Hakone, I have grown accustomed to having a hot bath at the end of each day, and it wouldn't feel like a Hakone hike without one.

On the train ride home I reflect on the journey. Because Hakone is a popular destination, it has a reputation for being crowded and touristy. But sticking to the mountain trails, I have hardly seen a soul. On a long walk, the stresses of daily life disappear, and the only thing to consider is finishing the trail, eating the next meal and the bath at the end of the day. If feels like a primal human experience we periodically need and I look forward to returning to explore more of what Hakone has to offer of the well-trodden tourist trail.

Web Connection

Yusaka Trail: alltrails.com/explore/trail/ japan/kanagawa/miyanoshita-mountsengen-hakone-yumoto

Hakone Yuryo: hakoneyuryo.jp / hakonejapan.com/things-to-do/onsen/onsen-for-aday-visit/hakone-yuryo/

Take a Trip to the Wild Side

From Kansai to Kochi

BY CHIARA TERZUOLO

southern reaches of Japan?

Adventurous souls looking to see a wilder side of Japan will find plenty to whet their appetites in Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s main islands. Surprisingly, you don’t go directly from Osaka and Kyoto down to the sunny city of Okayama, from where the Dosan scenic rides down to Takamatsu, the capital of Kagawa Prefecture, which is best known for the Ritsurin Garden, endless steps of Kotohira Shrine and as one of the gateways to the Setouchi Triennale Art Festival.

Or, you can ride further into the heart of Shikoku to Kochi Prefecture, an ideal base for visitors seeking outdoor adventures beyond where your average tourist dares to tread.

Take in the Sights and Flavors of Kochi City

Kochi City is the first port of call for most visitors (except perhaps the pilgrims circling the island on the famous 1,200-kilometer Shikoku in one day. If possible, try to align your visit so you can check out the weekly Sunday Market, which, besides being the longest street market in Japan at around 1.3km and having a 300year history, is a joy for foodies of all ages. Among the many stalls run by local producers, based inaka sushi, bags of freshly fried sweet potato tempura (or mochi made from the same aisukurin sorbets, skewers leave hungry.

In case you can’t stop by on Sunday, check Market, before taking a wander by lofty Kochi Castle. A quick bus ride away Mt. Godai awaits, where you will find the serene beauty Botanical Garden, dedicated to the local son Makino.

After getting your bearings in Kochi City, it is

Just Around the Riverbend: Niyodogawacho

Pick up a rental car near the station (or check the somewhat limited train and bus just over an hour to Nakatsu Gorge, where you can witness the incredible glowing and its tributaries.

There is an easy 2.3 K hiking loop along the gorge, dotted with statues of the shichifukujin wreathed with scarlet and gold leaves during the fall. But for a closer and more exhilarating experience, opt for a canyoning tour with Niyodo Adventure, which takes you to hidden parts of the valley (including the lair of a legendary thrills with jumps, natural slides and paths underneath waterfalls. The water is so clean and smooth that it feels like you are playing in a river of fancy mineral water.

For those a little intimidated by canyoning, the very English-friendly team at Niyodo Adventure also offers pack rafting adventures along the Niyodo River, which has just enough rapids to be fun

A one hour hike (or 15 minute drive Blue Brew, a craft brewery run by former Masako Mukai. Despite the charmingly pocket-sized space, Ken creates an impressive array of ales that make use of locally grown ingredients and the area’s pure water. The smooth 2410 Belgian White ale has notes of sansho and ginger, while the popular 439 IPA gets a refreshing kick from green tea. In the evenings you the sound of the nearby stream.

Of course drinking and driving do not mix, so unless you have a designated driver, walk across the bridge and stay

overnight at Shimona no Sato, a former school that has been transformed into a quirky inn. The large dinners and breakfasts will give you a true taste of Kochi home-cooking, and often include freshlycaught river fish and mountain vegetables. For those who prefer to sleep under the stars, bring camping gear and spend the night at the nearby Yumenomori Park camping site, which has all the basic amenities you need.

For other river adventures in Kochi, check out the comprehensive rundown at : www.outdoorjapan.com/activities/river-andlake/rafting-in-japan/finding-the-flow-fromkansai-to-kochi/

Cycling the Shimanto River

that bike rides along the 196 km Shimanto River have been a favorite with Japanese cyclists for many years.

One of the most popular sections is between the headwaters near the town of Tsuno (about 1.5 continues on for 150 km following the gentle turns of Japan’s last un-dammed river. Along the way you will come across many chinkabashi, the railless submersible bridges that are an iconic part of Kochi’s river valley landscapes, along with pretty farmhouses, forests and perhaps even a whitedressed ohenro

There are a number of towns dotted along the way that make excellent stops for a good night of rest. Kubokawa, about 40 km from the headwaters, is home to artistic Iwamoto-ji Temple, which besides being the 37th temple of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, also has a colorful ceiling comprised of 575 painted tiles, along with pop art brightening the grounds. Get a cup of tea and wagashi sweet in the beautifully preserved Kominka Cafe Hanpei before checking into the gorgeous Ki no Hotel, which was built in 2018 as a new addition to the adjacent historical Mima Ryokan.

The next obvious spot to stop before tackling city of Shimanto is little Nishitosa, where the wellappointed Hotel Seira Shimanto (and its soothing also happens to run an observatory, where thanks to the minimal light pollution on clear nights you can get fantastic views of the stars.

You can organize the trip yourself, or save yourself the bother and book a cycling tour with Kochi Escapes, which includes transport from Kochi Airport, a support van and other helpful services so all you have to do is focus on pedaling and enjoying the ride.

On the Rooftop of Shikoku at the Ishizuchi Mountain Range

For keen hikers, there are few things more exciting than crossing a steep ridgeline where you can get 360 degree views. The Ishizuchi Mountain Range offers plenty of thrills and a number of different peaks and trails to suit everyone from casual hikers to masters of the mountains.

The range stretches for 50 km along the border between Kochi and Ehime prefectures. The main peak is Mt.Ishizuchi, which rises to 1,982m and is the highest mountain in western Japan (and all of

road gives hikers easy access to some of the best hikes from the Kochi side, both of which can make perfect day hikes, although you may be tempted to stay overnight at the gorgeous Shirasa mountain lodge to stargaze.

Mt. Kamegamori is an impressive 1.897-meters and is one of the top 10 highest mountains in western Japan. This one is a good option for those in search of a shorter hike with a lot of bang for your buck, because despite its altitude it can be climbed with relative ease and has fantastic views of the other peaks of the mountain range. The trailhead is located at 1,670 meters, starting by the Kamegamori parking area along the UFO

from the town of Ino just outside Kochi City.

Since you start out high up, to reach the peak you only need to hike an extra 230 meters in elevation, so the hike can be completed in about three hours. Hike up through slopes covered in bamboo

1,838 meters, and then tackle the short climb to the highest point, Onnayama.

For something a little closer and a little more challenging, try Mt. Iyo-Fuji. This 1,756-meter peak has some of the grandiosity of the better-known Mt.Fuji, but with long stretches of ridgeline that offer 360-degree views of Mt. Ishizuchi and all the way to the Seto Inland Sea. There is parking and bathrooms right by the trailhead at the south entrance to the Mt. Kanpuzan Tunnel, from where it takes about four to five hours round trip to the summit.

The initial section through the forest is pretty steep, but once you reach the ridgeline you have a very pleasant hike with fantastic views, and one last scramble up to the peak. Make sure your phone is fully charged, as the views of the mountaintop trail will have you taking photos left and right.

If you are searching for adventures away from the crowds of Kansai, keep Kochi’s wild and beautiful landscapes in mind. For more inspiration, check out: osakatokochi.com

Travel &Adventure

Travel &Adventure

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