ISSUE 82
SPRING 2022
Finding Flow from Kansai to Kochi
Shower Climbing Above Wakasa Bay Beyond Shikoku's Pilgrimage Path Wandering Kyoto's Oni Trail Akiota's Elusive Giants
Setouchi Triennale Oiso's Shishimai Marche Spring Races, Events & Music Festivals
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ISSUE 82
SPRING 2022
16
FINDING FLOW FROM KANSAI TO KOCHI INSIDE
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Beyond Shikoku's Pilgrimage Path
Kyoto's Oni Trail
From the Editor. . . . . . . . . 5 Market Watch. . . . . . . . . . . 6
Shower Climbing Above Wakasa Bay
Solace and Giant Salamanders in Akiota
Spring Races & Events . . . 7 Travel Directory. . . . . . . . . 28
Spring 2022 | 3
F r om t h e Edi t o r
Published Seasonally
PUBLISHER Outdoor Japan G.K.
With photographer Clark Little (center) and his longtime manager Richard Tully (left) at Green Room Festival
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t’s been an amazing winter in Japan with record snow falls and temperatures staying consistently cold. While the doors to international visitors are creeping open, domestic travel restrictions have been sprung and people’s pent-up desire to get out and travel is clearly evident. And as spring flowers bloom and bikes and backpacks are dusted off, there is plenty of snow with many resorts open through Golden Week or beyond. If you enjoy snowshoeing or ski touring, grab a guide in one of the high alpine areas and enjoy a refreshing tour in the mountains. Races and events are also getting back into action after a one or two-year hiatus for many. It’s still a good idea to check event websites or contact the organizers directly to confirm schedules and protocols, but it’s great to see so many races, events and music festivals back online and ready to roll. One of our favorite events—Green Room Festival—is back this May. It started off as a surf culture, art and music festival, and while the acts have become a bit more mainstream in recent years, it’s a great weekend to soak up the sun and sounds along Yokohama Bay. Also good news for music lovers, Fuji Rock and Summer Sonic have announced dates and some acts have been confirmed. We highlight two amazing art festivals: one spread out on the islands in the Seto Island Sea and the other in Niigata’s snow country. Meanwhile, Baird Brewery in Shuzenji is celebrating their eight-year anniversary and an expanded campsite. There’s hope that more craft beer festivals will be back this spring and summer. As things open up, be sure to get out and support your favorite breweries, restaurants and locally owned accommodation that have suffered over the past few years. While Japan’s mountains from Nagano to Tohoku and Hokkaido are often featured here, our Spring issue has a distinctly western feel as we head for the hills above Wakasa Bay, one of Japan’s premier sea kayaking destinations. Here, we visit an old post town and join a local guide for sawanobori (shower climbing). It’s refreshing to see the community protect the history and culture, keeping things local by not allowing outside real estate developers to come in and pillage properties. Properties are sold from individuals to other individuals only—it’s a great system and one that other communities facing similar situations would do well to follow. We stay near the sea on Kyoto’s coastal Oni Trail, where history, mythology and stunning views await travelers going beyond Japan’s old western capital. We go with the flow and explore rivers from Kansai to Kochi for some great white water fun, canyoning and camping along the pristine waters of the Niyodo, Yoshino and Shimanto rivers—the latter being one of Japan’s last dam-less waterways. Staying in Shikoku, we hit hiking trails beyond the well-trodden Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage and discover local breweries and camping before heading back to the mainland in search of Japan’s elusive giant salamanders just outside of Hiroshima. Check out our listings and be sure to visit the Outdoor Japan website, Facebook and Instagram pages for updates through the season, announcements on new events and more. Every season is a new adventure in Japan and we hope you’ll get out there and have a blast this spring!
DIRECTORS Mike Harris, Charles Odlin, Gardner Robinson FOUNDER / EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Gardner Robinson MEDIA PRODUCER / EDITOR Rie Miyoshi CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Bill Ross CONTRIBUTORS Joan Bailey DESIGN Outdoor Japan
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—Gardner Robinson Editor-in-Chief
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Cover Photo: Niyodo Adventure
Spring 2022 | 5
MARKET WATCH BY JOAN BAILEY
Oiso's Shishimai Marche
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n the second Saturday of each month, the undercover parking area in front of Shishimai Ramen Café becomes a market plaza. Local growers and producers gather with their seasonal wares to entice customers to try their fresh produce, while artisans and entrepreneurs offer products that range from the decorative to the practical. Filled with fruits, vegetables, and a used item exchange, local residents, including children and pets, laugh, linger and shop. Started a year ago by farmer Yoichi M i y a k a w a , f l o r i s t Yo k o Ya h i ro , a n d Shishimai owner, Toyoko Miyadai, this neighborhood market hosts anywhere from five to eight vendors and roughly 50 customers (not including pets and children, of course) from 8 a.m. to just before the ramen shop opens at eleven. While it may seem small, this little market packs quite a punch. After farming part-time for a handful of years, Miyakawa’s fields offered enough that he could make the shift to full-time farming two years ago and start selling his surplus. His stall fills one corner of the space with a bounty of vegetables including some of the usual seasonal suspects such as daikon, carrots and satoimo, along with two kinds of potatoes, three kinds of kale, squash and Brussels sprouts. A few steps away, Masumi Aoki of Blue Tree Farm stands behind a table where the vivid reds and greens of tender lettuce greens and sprigs of broccoli are displayed in boxes made from recycled advertising flyers. Blue Tree Farm uses no plastic whatsoever, whether it is the plastic-robed greenhouses or black mulch that are common features of modern farms. Instead, Aoki relies on organic SHISHIMAI MARCHE Oiso, Kanagawa Second Saturday of the month, 8 a.m. - 10:45 a.m. instagram.com/shishimai_marche
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materials for weed protection and waits for the soil to warm before planting squash, tomatoes and other summer crops. Sharing table space with Aoki’s delicious efforts are tidy rows of bottles of Junko Torikai’s local orange juice. Through the combined efforts of Torikai and her volunteers, the orchard that sat fallow for ten years is in production again. Harvested at different points in the season, the resulting juices have slightly different flavors that reflect varying stages of ripeness, although all 100 trees are the same variety. With its emphasis on local, organic, and plastic-free shopping in a bring-yourown-bag-and-container kind of venue, the Shishimai Marche is refreshing in every sense. Miyadai also sells hot breakfasts of curry rice or oden for takeaway before her shop opens. Come for the food, stay for the community.
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"Tunnel of Light" by Ma Yansong Photo: Osamu Nakamura
Echigo Tsumari Art Field This event was originally a triennale and is set against the backdrop of Niigata’s mountains and satoyama (Japanese countryside). The art festival is an immersive way to travel across six areas in Echigo, the former name for Niigata Prefecture. View contemporary art exhibitions, try local cuisine at culinary events and don’t miss out on the popular permanent exhibitions like the Tunnel of Light and the House of Light by James Turrellare. This year the festival also welcomes 114 new artworks. There are guided day-trip bus tours to and from Echigo-Yuzawa Station, which include lunch. Passport tickets are available for ¥4,500 for adults and free for children in junior high school or younger. When: April 29 - Nov. 13 Where: Echigo Tsumari, Niigata Web: echigo-tsumari.jp
Umi-no-eki Naoshima
Setouchi Triennale One of the most fascinating outdoor art events is back this year. Setouchi Triennale’s contemporary artwork is spread out among 12 islands in the Seto Inland Sea between Kagawa and Okayama prefectures. Themed “restoration of the sea,” the event aims to revitalize the local environment and community after severe depopulation. The event is divided over three sessions, with the first (spring session) held between mid April to mid May. Each session includes both permanent, site-specific installations and single-season exhibitions. Although the iconic Yayoi Kusama yellow pumpkin sculpture went viral for washing away in a typhoon last summer and is currently being restored, there are plenty of exhibitions to enjoy. The event is also a unique opportunity to experience Japan’s traditional island culture. Keep a lookout for season-specific tours and exhibitions. For example, official tours to Shamijima Island are only available in spring. The island boasts an ancient history of human habitation with pottery shards and stone implements dating back to the Jomon Period (12,000-300 B.C.) and nine kofun, ancient burial mounds. Three-session passport tickets are available for ¥5,000 (free for children 15-years-old and below). When: Spring session: April 14 - May 18; Summer session: Aug. 5 - Sept. 4; Autumn session: Sept. 29 - Nov. 6 Where: Seto Inland Sea Islands Web: setouchi-artfest.jp
"Rotating Absence" by Koichiro Azuma Photo: Keizo Kioku
Spring 2022 | 7
Music Festiv als Get back into the groove this green season while enjoying the great outdoors with family and friends. Always check event websites for updates on artists and protocols before making plans. Rainbow Disco Club Enjoying camping and dance music in the subtropical Izu Peninsula for a three-day party to kick off Golden Week. When: April 29 - May 1 Where: Higashi-izu, Shizuoka Web: rainbowdiscoclub.com BB Neon Night Step back in time with ‘70s and ‘80s music at Brewery Gardens Shuzenji with a pint of local craft beer made on the spot and a fun weekend of camping. Live DJ performances start from 6:30 p.m., but you can get the party started earlier at the taproom. When: Apr. 29 Where: Shuzenji, Shizuoka Web: bairdbeer.com Japan Jam If you’re staying in town for Golden Week, check out this almost-week-long festival in Chiba City. When: May 1-7 Where: Chiba City, Chiba Web: japanjam.jp Fuji & Sun Camp and enjoy live music at the foot of Mt Fuji in a relaxed, open-air space. When: May 14-15 Where: Fuji, Shizuoka Web: fjsn.jp Hakuba Yoo-hoo! Festival This mountaintop festival lets you enjoy the best of Hakuba’s green season. Enjoy a weeklong festival with music, camping, hot air balloon rides, a trail run, fitness workshops and yoga. Held at Hakuba Iwatake Mountain Resort, this festival works with Protect Our Winters Japan to raise awareness of environmental conservation. When: May 21-29 Where: Hakuba, Nagano Web: iwatake-mountain-resort.com Hak
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Go Out Camp Inawashiro Enjoy the start of summer at this lakeside getaway with live music, camping, food booths and a market. When: May 27-29 Where: Inawashiro, Fukushima Web: gooutcamp.jp/inawashiro Greenroom Festival This annual surf and beach lifestyle festival features Def Tech, Vaundy and Nulbarich. Check the website for updates and enjoy a day by the Yokohama seaside. When: May 28-29 Where: Yokohama, Kanagawa Web: greenroom.jp The Camp Book 2022 Fujimi Kogen Ski Resort transforms into an outdoor stage for this camp and music festival. The event is set against the peaks of Yatsugatake and easily accessible by car from Tokyo. When: June 11-12 Where: Fujimi, Nagano Web: the-camp-book.com/2022 Fuji Rock While the official lineup is still being confirmed, early bird tickets are already available for Japan’s most iconic music festival. Stay at a nearby lodge or hotel, or camp out for the three-day event. When: July 29-31 Where: Naeba, Niigata Web: fujirockfestival.com Summer Sonic This festival famous for featuring popular international artists is finally back after three years, boasting a line up that includes Post Malone, Megan Thee Stallion, Carly Rae Jepsen, All Time Low, The 1975, The Offspring and more. When: Aug. 20-21 Where: Tokyo and Osaka Web: summersonic.com
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Aco Chill Camp If you missed Fuji & Sun, check out this camping festival also held near Mt. Fuji. BBQ sets available. When: May 21-22 Where: Gotemba, Shizuoka Web: acochill.com
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Active Okinawa
Shinano Discovery
l e v a r T & s r u To E-Bike Tours in Nagano Shinano Town in northern Nagano transforms from snow country to a cycling and hiking destination every spring. The first two-day tour is on May 7-8 and will take cyclists to the mystical ninja town of Togakushi, where you can try local soba noodles and walk along the giant cedar trees of Togakushi Shrine. The next day, you’ll cycle to St. Cousair Winery, a scenic vineyard, restaurant and cafe overlooking mountains and valleys. The second tour on May 21-22 starts at Kurohime where you’ll cycle to Lake Nojiri and take a guided forest therapy walk with a macrobiotic Japanese bento lunch. The next day you’ll cycle to the impressive Naena Falls before refreshing your tired legs at Akakura Onsen’s footbaths. When: May 7-8, 21-22 Where: Shinanomachi, Nagano Web: shinanodiscovery.com Baird Beer 8th Anniversary Party Local sustainable brewery Baird Beer celebrates their eighth anniversary at their Shuzenji location tucked in Izu Peninsula's countryside. Enjoy all-you-can-drink beer for ¥3,000, a cornhole challenge, live music and camping with family and friends at this spacious brewery and campsite. Baird Beer has also expanded their camping areas to include the Dark Sky site and West Coast site. The West Coast site includes RV and camping van sites and cabins. When: June 4-5 Where: Shuzenji, Shizuoka Web: bairdbeer.com Okinawa Eco-Tours Active Okinawa is a new tour operator in the lesscrowded northern part of Okinawa’s main island. Their tours are designed to get people off the resorts and enjoy a variety of adventures while exploring Okinawa’s pristine natural environment. They specialize in small groups, flexible tours while supporting local communities where they operate so participants can enjoy authentic experiences while meeting locals and enjoying their holidays. Enjoy stand-up paddle boarding, jungle hiking, river trekking and more. When: All year Where: Nago, Okinawa Web: activeokinawa.com
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Byaku Narai Go back in time at this refurbished, luxurious lodge situated in the charming Narai-juku post town on the Nakasendo Trail. This lodge used to be a historic sake brewery and features a restaurant, sake tasting bar and hot springs. While most resorts are inclusive, this accommodation encourages travelers to explore the local area by presenting guests with byaku fuda, cards introducing 100 local experiences. The lodge will open in August 2022. Where: Narai, Nagano Web: byaku.site From P Hakuba Glamping Enjoy glamping at this new campsite at Hakuba HappoOne Ski Resort. From P Hakuba offers picturesque views of the surrounding mountains while remaining within walking distance of restaurants and hot springs. There are dining options as well using seasonal local ingredients. After a day of hiking, tennis, mountain biking or other green season activities, restore your body in one of four Finnish-style saunas. Where: Hakuba, Nagano Web: glamping-nagano.com/room The Mana Village Kochi Wake up to views of the Pacific Ocean at this resort in Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park, a popular diving spot in Shikoku. This resort includes a stunning outdoor restaurant serving local seafood and organic ingredients (open to nonstaying guests as well), luxurious rooms and a rotenburo (outdoor hot spring). An organic farm and residential housing is currently being built. Aside from diving, guests can enjoy fishing, looking for sea turtles, snorkeling and cycling. Where: Ashizuri-Uwakai National Park, Kochi Web: themanavillage.com Zenbo Seinei This retreat is a welcome getaway embracing everything zen from meditation, rooftop yoga, rotenburo, and tofubased vegetarian meals. Designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, this impressive and meticulously designed wooden hotel is perched on a ridge and offers 360-degree views of the forest. It is located along the 135th meridian, significant as it is the standard meridian for all of Japan, allowing precise times to be fixed. The resort is a perfect stop while journeying around the Seto Inland Sea. Where: Awaji Island, Hyogo Web: zenbo-seinei.com
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Races & Fes tivals
Setouchi Island Trail Combine a trip to the Setouchi Triennale with this fun island trail run on the pristine Kamikamari Island in the Seto Inland Sea. When: Apr. 24 Where: Kamikamari Island, Hiroshima Web: setouchi-itrail.com Sendai International Half Marathon This popular race starts at Sendai Station and passes through Nishi Koen Park and Jozenji Avenue. When: May 8 Where: Sendai, Miyagi Web: sendaihalf.com Hakuba Iwatake Trail Race Choose between a 30-kilometer and 15-kilometer race in the mountains near Hakuba Iwatake. This area is also popular for mountain biking and camping in the green season. When: May 21 Where: Hakuba, Nagano Web: gon-ff.com/?p=2734
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Spartan Race Super 10K in Chiba This 25-obstacle race blends speed, endurance and technical skill. A 5K sprint and a kids race are also available. When: May 28 Where: Sodegaura, Chiba Web: spartanrace.jp 15th Skyline Trail Sugadaira This beginner-friendly trail run is a great way to enjoy the cooling Shinshu area and springtime in the alpine region. When: May 29 Where: Sugadaira Kogen, Nagano Web: sugadaira-trail.jp Kochi Niyodo River Blue Ride Cycle along the stunning blue Niyodo River and Japan’s clearest river, the Shimanto River in Kochi. When: May 29 Where: Niyodo River, Kochi Web: samuraisports.org Togakushi Mountain Trail Navigate your way through this ancient forest in the mystical ninja town of Togakushi. There are four challenges: the long course (20 kilometers), short course (10 kilometers), a vertical run and kids run. When: June 4 Where: Togakushi, Nagano Web: nature-scene.net/tmt
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Ultra-Trail Mt. Fuji This 100-mile course along mountain trails, local footpaths and forest roads around the foothills of Mt. Fuji is a great way to experience the natural beauty and culture around Japan’s most famous mountain. When: Apr. 22-24 Where: Fuji, Shizuoka / Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi Web: ultratrailmtfuji.com
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Hiraodai Trail Challenge yourself on either the long (40-kilometer) or short (17-kilometer) course in Fukuoka’s mountains. When: Apr. 17 Where: Kita-Kyushu, Fukuoka Web: hiraodai-trail.com
Alps Azumino Century Ride The impressive Japan Alps in Nagano are the backdrop to this century ride. There are two routes: the 160-kilometer route to and from Azusaizui-en and the 120-kilometer route to and from the National Alps Azumino Park. Both routes go to Hakuba. This is a relaxed cycling event and participants are encouraged to enjoy the ride at their own pace. Only sports bikes are allowed. When: May 21-22 Where: Azumino, Nagano Web: aacr.jp
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Onbashira Festival One of Japan’s oldest and most dangerous festivals is held once every six years. Sixteen enormous trees are selected, and brought down from the forest as villagers ride down steep, 27-degree slopes, carry them across a frigid river and then raise them up as sacred pillars placed in each corner of Suwa shrines. When: Yamadashi: Apr. 2-4, 8-10; Satobiki: May 3-5, 14-16 Where: Suwa, Shimosuwa and Chino, Nagano Web: onbashira.jp
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ANA Niseko Classic 2022 When the snow melts, Niseko turns into a cycling destination. Cycle past rolling plains and the impressive Mt. Yotei on a 150-kilometer, 85-kilometer or 15-kilometer ride. There’s also a Mt. Yotei fun ride. When: June 10-12 Where: Niseko, Hokkaido Web: nisekoclassic.com Hokkaido Furano Ride Escape the heat in cooler Hokkaido on this 110-kilometer ride (47-kilometer course also available). Ride through Hokkaido’s rural summer landscapes and don’t forget to stop for Furano’s delicious produce. When: June 21 Where: Furano, Hokkaido Web: samuraisports.org/cycling/greatearthfurano Sea to Summit Montbell—Japan’s largest homegrown outdoor brand—is behind the popular Sea to Summit race series. Their goal is to invigorate local areas, holding events to experience nature through two days of canoeing, cycling and trekking. This year they are hosting the series across twelve locations around Japan. When and Where: May 21-22: Daisen, Tottori June 11-12: Etajima, Hiroshima June 18-19: Okhotsk, Hokkaido June 25-26: Saijo, Ehime July 16-17: Myoko, Niigata July 23-24: Bizen, Okayama Aug. 20-21: Asahidake, Hokkaido Sept. 10-11: Mt. Chokai, Yamagata Sept. 23-24: Lake Biwa, Shiga Oct. 8-9: Kamimachi, Miyagi Oct. 15-16: Chikuma River, Nagano Nov. 12-13: Kihoku, Mie Web: seatosummit.jp
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SPRING SKIING 2022 has been a banner snow year with many resorts registering near record highs. For snow lovers who aren't ready to pack away those skis or snowboards, or serious enthusiasts with skins and touring skis, there are a number of resorts open through Golden Week and others, like Yamagata's Gassan, that extend into early summer.
HOKKAIDO
Niseko Annupuri Until May 5 Niseko Grand Hirafu Until May 5 Niseko Hanazono Resort Until May 5 Sapporo Kokusai Until May 8 Sapporo Teine Until May 5 Furano Resort Until May 8
TOHOKU
Hakkoda Ropeway Until beginning of May APPI Kogen Until May 8 Geto Kogen Until May 8 Yamagata Gassan Until July
NAGANO
Hakuba Goryu Until beginning of May Hakuba 47 Until May 5 Hakuba Happo-One Until May 8 Hakuba Tsugaike Kogen Until May 8 Shiga Kogen Mountain Resort Until end of May Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort Until May 8 Yakebitaiyama Until May 8 Okushiga Kogen Ski Field Until May 5 Gala Yuzawa Ski Resort Until May 5
NIIGATA
Kagura Until May 22 Gala Yuzawa Snow Resort Until May 5 Seki Onsen Until beginning of May Charmant Hiuchi Until May 5
GUNMA
Tenjidaira Tanigawadake Until beginning of May Tanbara Ski Park Until May 8 Marunuma Kogen Ski Resort Until May 8
MONTUCKY COLD SNACKS - CRISP. COLD. SNACKABLE. BEER. FOR ADVENTURES.
Minakami Trail Race The nature-abundant Minakami Biosphere Reserve is the setting for this race, which is divided into four divisions: the 100k, 80k, 40k and 20k. When: June 4-5 Where: Minakami, Gunma Web: gon-ff.com/?p=2694
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BEYOND SHIKOKU'S PILGRIMAGE PATH Hiking in East Tokushima BY RIE MIYOSHI
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evoted hikers have been walking the mystical trails of the Shikoku Henro as early as the 9th Century. The sacred pilgrimage route to the 88 official temples attract active travelers from around the world who spend anywhere from several days to months completing the ancient route. The pilgrimage starts in east Tokushima Prefecture and makes a circular path around Shikoku Island. Just a ten-minute drive out of Tokushima City, you’ll find yourself surrounded by mountains and villages like Kamiyama, Yoshinogawa, Sanagochi and Kamikatsu. The latter has received press and praise for it’s efforts to become a zero-waste town. East Tokushima’s mountains all are below 1,000 meters making them ideal for casual day hikes and easy access by dar. The weather is relatively mild throughout the year as well so visitors can enjoy a few days exploring some of these trails anytime. MT. YAMAINUDAKE
Ya m a i n u d a k e o ff e r s s w e e p i n g v i e w s o f countryside hamlets, but the main attraction is near the base of the mountain where you’ll find one of the largest moss forests in Japan. Numerous boulders are covered in bright green moss, resembling a landscaped garden. The best time to view the moss forest is in June or July after the rainy season has brought life and color to this natural garden. The rest of the trail is a miniature Shikoku 88 pilgrimage in itself—lined with ancient kannon (Boddhisatva) sculptures. While the hike is not difficult, there are narrow cave passages and boulders you may need to scramble over. There are also several climbable rock formations. AMAGOI FALLS
This impressive waterfall is part of a twokilometer uphill hike to Higanji Temple. Start at the temple and make your way down, but the recommended path is to start at the base and follow a river for about 45 minutes to an hour. There are several small, but pristine waterfalls along the way. Amagoi Falls—which translates to “married falls”—is a two-step waterfall broken into 27-meter and 45-meter sections. It’s rated among the 100 best waterfalls in Japan. Enjoy the view from the bottom but, for the daring, there is a chain on the side that allows you to climb to the second tier.
Be sure to have good climbing skills and wear the right footwear as it is extremely slippery. From the waterfall, it’s another 45 minutes to an hour to the temple. MT. KUMOSO
While Mt. Kumoso may not be tall, it is very steep and has rocky and slippery ridge lines recommended for intermediate hikers. It takes around two hours round trip following a mountain stream, then up to a beech and moss forest. When you see the 1495-meter sign, you’ve reached the top! On clear days, you’ll be treated to a panoramic view of the low-lying Shikoku mountains and Tokushima City in the distance. The best time to visit is early summer or mid-October during koyo season (autumn leaves). The trailhead is on the Super Rindo Road, the longest forest road in Japan. It is unpaved but cars can still access the trailhead on the forest road. MT. TOISHI GONGEN
Tackle the 1,375-meter Mt. Toishi Gongen on the same day if you’re up for it. This easier trail is well maintained and great for beginners. It’s covered in forest even at the peak, so rather than lookouts, enjoy the abundant alpine plants. In fact, the trailhead is located at Gakujin-no-mori Campsite, which was built to preserve the natural environment and protect rare endangered alpine plants. In spring, observe peach-colored rhododendrons and bluefringed iris bloom all over the park. The hike takes roughly one-and-a-half hours. Lear n more about the various trails east Tokushima has to offer by checking out the Hike! Tokushima English brochures at east-tokushima.jp/ brochure. If your trip is focused on east Tokushima, stay at the relaxing Tsukigatani Onsen, a traditional ryokan that sources its hot springs from Kamikatsu Onsen. It’s near Kamikatsu’s eco-friendly attractions, such as the Cafe Polestar and Rise & Win Brewing Co. Give yourself two or three days before continuing your journey through Shikoku Island. GETTING THERE
The best way to get to east Tokushima from Tokyo or Osaka is flying into Tokushima Awaodori Airport, then renting a car. The trails are around 80 to 100 minutes by car. Note that public transportation is limited.
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BREWERY HOPPING IN EAST TOKUSHIMA With mountainous and geographically isolated villages, east Tokushima may surprise craft beer lovers with an up-and-coming brewery scene. Fresh springs, local citrus and produce, and pristine natural resources create ample inspiration for local breweries working hard to make tasty brews while giving back to their communities. The breweries are all accessible by car in a day and are around 40 minutes to an hour apart. RISE & WIN BREWING CO. (KAMIKATSU TOWN)
This environmentally conscious brewery is a landmark of Kamikatsu Town. Kamikatsu literally means “rise and win,” and this iconic building definitely does rise up against the countryside backdrop. The architecturally striking building is part brewery, part taproom, with an eight-meter-high patchwork wall made out of recycled windows. The exterior is made out of reused mill ends from local cedar and coated with an organic finish made from persimmon juice and red iron oxide. During warmer seasons, the outdoor space next to the taproom is a small campsite and BBQ area. The brewery produces Kamikatz Beer and collaborates with local farmers to create zero-waste brews like Leuven White, a fruity craft beer using yukou, a local citrus. After squeezing the juice for ponzu sauce, people normally discard the skins. This beer is flavored with this yukou peel. Their popular Morning Summer is a New England Session IPA using the juice of local Kamikatsu fruits. If you’re not able to make it down to Tokushima, sample the beers at the Kamikatz Taproom in Azabu, Tokyo. Open: Wednesdays to Saturdays and public holidays, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Web: kamikatz.jp
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2ND STORY ALE WORKS (TOKUSHIMA CITY)
Located just outside Tokushima City, this brewery is based on the second story of an old mikan (tangerine) warehouse. It’s also the “second story” for Pat and Yuki Brown when they moved back to Japan and chose to pursue a new career path. “We didn’t want to go back to our previous jobs, so we thought of options like opening a bakery, starting an organic farm or brewing beer. Brewing sounded like the most fun,” laughs Pat. After receiving his certificate as a beer judge in his hometown of Bend, Oregon, and taking classes in brewing, he and his wife relocated to Yuki’s parents’ home. Her parents, like many of their neighbors, are mikan farmers. “In Tokushima, we have fresh fruit almost year round, and lots of mikan, sudachi, kinkan and other citrus, strawberries, figs and even sansho pepper. We use them in our beers,” says Yuki. Currently, they brew everything from farmhouse beers, IPAs, New England IPAs, Belgian beers, barley wine and sour beers. They’re currently working on a farmhouse beer using 100 kilograms of fresh peaches. The result is a dry, highly carbonated beer that almost tastes like peach champagne. Their latest barley wine has an alcohol content of 13% and is aged with fig leaves, giving it a rich, fresh fig flavor and aroma. Their beer line-up is full of friendly faces, as the labels have people’s photos printed on them. “When we think about beer, we like to associate the style with people we know,” says Yuki, pointing out a beer with an ebullient-looking man on the label. “This is the Yocchan series named after my uncle—it’s a sour beer, and it’s fun and adventurous. Grandma is a Saison; she was a saint in our family, very sweet and always smiling, but also very tough as she had to raise nine children in the countryside during a time of poverty.” 2nd Story Ale Works’ beers can be bought online and are also distributed nationwide at craft bars and taprooms. Contact them through their website for open times and dates. Web: 2ndstoryale.jp
KAMIYAMA BEER (KAMIYAMA TOWN)
AWABEER
This quirky brewery and taproom is located conveniently at a riverside campsite in Kamiyama. The building is covered in playful murals thanks to artist Sayaka Abe, while her husband Manus Sweeney, originally from Ireland, brews European and American-style beers. “We both came here on an artist residency program, and really enjoyed the community and the nature,” says Sayaka. They use as many local ingredients as they can in a new or surprising way, even the common yomogi (mugwort) which is commonly seen as a pesky weed in Japan. “It’s actually an herb and was used in European brewing almost 1,000 years ago,” says Manus. Over summer, they brewed a batch of Yomogi Kakidoshi, which had a citrus taste and floral aroma. In autumn, they started a batch of Yomogi Porter. Meanwhile, their Shiwashiwa beer is most popular and uses wheat from Kamiyama. The beers are available at their taproom, bars around Kamiyama and Tokushima city, and their online shop. Open: Weekends, 12 p.m. - 8 p.m. (E-mail to inquire about weekday visits) E-mail: info@kamiyamabeer.com Web: kamiyamabeer.com
East Tokushima flourished during the Edo Period as an awa (indigo) dyeing market. The Yoshino River, which runs from east to west across Tokushima prefecture used to flood every typhoon season and was not ideal for rice planting. However, it was perfect for indigo plants and the region produced high-quality indigo dyes and goods. Today it has been branded as “Japan Blue.” To celebrate Tokushima’s rich history in indigo dyeing, Awabeer started brewing Aoiro Beer, tinted blue with indigo, which is edible and contains polyphenols. Additionally, their pale ales and stouts are very popular. For a quick bite and drink, visit Awabeer’s taproom at Tokushima Station or their brewery restaurant, also located in Tokushima City. Open: Tuesdays to Sundays, 11:30 a.m. - 11 p.m. Web: awa-mugishu.com v
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hikoku’s many mountains, valleys and proximity to the ocean has made it a hidden gem for rafting, kayaking and canyoning enthusiasts willing to take a step or two further from the Golden Route of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. Shikoku—especially along the coast—doesn’t get as cold as mainland Japan, even in peak winter, and river fun runs from early spring to late autumn. K o c h i P r e f e c t u r e ’s n u m e r o u s waterways are actually closer to Kansai than most people think. From Okayama Station, on the Sanyo bullet train line, rent a car and drive down to Kochi. This scenic drive takes you on the Great Seto Bridge, which connects the main island of Honshu to Shikoku. It’s about two hours to the top of Kochi and three to central Kochi.
Finding Flow F R O M K A NS AI TO KOCHI BY RIE MIYOSHI
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WORLD-CLASS RAFTING ON THE YOSHINO RIVER The Koboke section of the Yoshino River is one of Japan’s prime whitewater runs, not just for the size and scale of the river, but also the clear emerald water and stunning canyons. The rainfed Yoshino River is dam controlled so rafting tours can safely start as early as March and go as late as November. During typhoon season (late August to early September) the river has arguably the most thrilling rapids in Japan. Happy Raft has been guiding on the Yoshino River since 2004 and runs half-day, full-day and family rafting trips and canyoning tours (July to September). Their English-guided trips are small and personalized, and their three-person “Mini Me” raft is popular for tandem rafting as it it is thrilling being so close to the water. “I grew up in North Queensland, Australia, and worked as a rafting guide on Tully River,” says founder Mark Treston. “At that time we had loads of Japanese tourists. They were so much fun and really enjoyed their holidays, and I got the impression that Japanese people really liked to enjoy life. When I got the opportunity to come and guide rafting in Japan I jumped at the chance.” In 2001, Treston visited Shikoku and camped around the island enjoying the beaches and surfing. The following year, he moved his family down from Gunma and started Happy Raft. All guides are RAJ (Rafting Association Japan) qualified and some hold the New Zealand Rafting Association grade 4/5 or senior grade 4/5 qualification.
Tours start at ¥6,000 for half-day trips and ¥11,000 for full-day trips (prices may vary depending on the season). Aside from the tours, Happy Raft also has guesthouses and a bagel cafe at their base. There are uncrowded hiking trails nearby as well. Although Happy Raft is technically based in Kochi Prefecture, it sits on the border with Tokushima Prefecture near the famous Iya Bridge, a traditional suspension bridge, over the mystical Iya Valley. If you’re coming by train, Happy Raft is a threeminute walk from Tosa Iwahara Station on the JR Dosan line. They also offer pick ups from Oboke Station. Book your rafting trip at en.happyraft.com.
NIYODO RIVER ADVENTURES After exploring the Yoshino River, drive down to central Kochi for the night then make your way to the Niyodo River. It is about an hour and thirty minutes from Kochi City. The iridescent river runs through Nakatsu Gorge, a popular hiking and camping spot most popular for its “Niyodo Blue” waters and the 20-meter Uryu Falls at the end of the trail. The best way to immerse yourself in this river (literally) is signing up for a pack rafting and canyoning tour with Niyodo Adventure, Central Kochi’s first canyoning company, which opened in early 2020 by husband-and-wife team, Hiro and Zoe Kanzawa. Tours are led in English and Japanese and can be catered to beginners. The canyoning tour takes three hours in the Nakatsu Gorge, with plenty of opportunities to jump into pools, slide down natural water chutes and abseil down cliffs. There are no other canyoning companies here, so you’ll most likely have the gorge all to yourself. There’s also a family canyoning option for children six and up. Canyoning tours run from April to October (note tours may be cancelled during the rainy season in June and July). Further downstream, pack rafting tours are held April to November. Pack rafts are light, inflatable boats that are very stable, but extremely directional. They’re small and close to the surface, so you can navigate through areas even at low water. The four-kilometer course is gentle enough that inexperienced paddlers can safely learn in grade two rapids, with a few thrilling spots. “We like to take people on these small rapids. You might flip, you might not...who knows?” laughs Zoe. “Our main purpose is to provide experiences
people can’t get in the city, and to get them out of their head and into their body—to be more present.” Both pack rafting tours and canyoning are ¥8,500 per person for three hours. Book your adventure at niyodoadventure.com. The couple recently built a sauna so customers can warm up after a day in the water and enjoy a cup of freshly brewed Niyodo Coffee. This area is starting to pick up traction as there are several new cafes and even the Mukai Craft Brewing, which uses the river’s fresh spring water for their beer. Their Blue Brew taproom overlooks the Niyodo River. Learn more at mukaicraftbrewing.com. SHIMANTO RIVER KAYAKING It’s almost impossible to visit Kochi without making a stop at the Shimanto River, Shikoku’s longest and “last pure river,” named for the clear, clean water and the fact that there are no dams. It runs through Tsuno, Yusuhara, Nakatosa and Shimanto towns then onto Shimanto City, eventually emptying into the Pacific Ocean. This area is popular for cycling, camping and kayaking. Kawarakko Shimanto Canoe and Campsite operates on the banks of the river and offers a leisurely beginner course down a three-kilometer stretch of the river. The tour starts after a short instructional lesson and practice session. Most sections are placid although there are two small rapids. Kayakers need to steer clear of the houseboat cruise that passes once every hour. “We have customers who want to kayak in winter too,” says guide Kazunori Okumura, who was born and raised in Shimanto. “It doesn’t snow that often down here, but when it does, the views of the river and snow are stunning,” he notes. This tour passes by two chinkabashi, bridges designed without side rails so they are submersible and reduce the risk of the bridge being washed away in a flood. There are 22 chinkabashi crossing the main river and, while many are modern, there remain a few built in the old style. Tours start at ¥6,000 per person. The family-friendly company also offers snorkel rentals in the summer, canoeing, stand-up paddling and slow rafting. Learn more at kawarakko.com. Discover more on Visit Kochi Japan's official website at visitkochijapan.com/en. v
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SHOWER CLIMBING
HIGH ABOVE WAKASA BAY
BY BILL ROSS
Most people come to enjoy the beautiful waters along this picturesque bay, but intrepid travelers will find an even more refreshing experience high in the mountain streams that feed Wakasa Bay.
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or most of its length, the Japan Sea coast is fairly smooth and gentle. It has magnificent cliffs and rocky sections in many locations, as well as long, uninterrupted stretches of sandy beaches, but it’s a fairly consistent line stretching all the way from Aomori in the north, to the rounded Oga Peninsula in Akita, straight down to Ishikawa where the Noto Peninsula juts way out into the sea, then along a long section of flat land and sandy shores. That changes at Wakasa Bay, which is roughly the southern half of Fukui Prefecture. It’s as if an enormous sea monster decided to take a big bite out of Honshu Island, with the result a ragged indentation with jutting peninsulas and rugged bays. If you were looking for a place to find an adventure, Wakasa beckons, with its folding, undulating shoreline and steep mountains surrounding the crystalline waters of the bay and often plunging directly into the depths. While these waters are incredibly inviting, we are heading for the hills. High above the shoreline refreshing water tumbles down from the mountains and cascades toward the sea. The journey begins with a meeting at Kumagawa Juku, a former post town about halfway between Wakasa Bay and Lake Biwa. Traveling on today’s Highway 303, you can just see some traditional buildings and gates off to the side as you rush past. In fact, those traditional buildings run on either side of the Saba Kaido—the “Mackerel Road,” the former main road running from the town
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of Obama on Wakasa Bay close to Lake Biwa, then down to Kyoto. Its name comes from the fact that, for many centuries, this was the transportation route carrying Wakasa Bay’s seafood to the merchants and nobles in Kyoto. Kumagawa Juku—juku a name used for post towns where people traveling on foot could stop for the night—was one important point on the route, and one which today has kept its Edoera look. Learn more about Kumagawa Juku at kumagawa-juku.com.
Hiromichi Murata, owner of guiding company Plus Wild, soon arrives. He’s a certified mountain guide, but also a keen booster of the current development of Kumagawa Juku. “There are a lot of young people who are now creating new shops inside these old buildings, like this coffee shop,” he says. “The main thing is we are trying to keep things local, and to control the development so that we can keep the feeling of the area.” One way they’re doing it here, he says, is by not allowing outside real estate developers to come in. Buildings are sold by individuals to other individuals. So while there are some crumbling buildings now just starting to be rebuilt by new younger owners, several for merly run-down properties have been rebuilt as high-end, tastefully appointed hotels—still with that timeless interior intact—pottery shops, soba restaurants, and more. Murata-san suggests that, since this is such an historic place, we might want to take in a little of the local culture before heading up into the hills. “Let’s go take a look at the ninja dojo,” he says with a smile. Full disclosure: your writer has had a pretty negative opinion of ninjas, seeing them as the source of too many tacky tourist destinations, the main characters of B-class TV shows and the source of naming far too many foreign-owned operations in Japan. What we find at the Ninja Dojo Seireikan, though, changes my mind. We’re greeted by Yuichi Niino, a woodcarver who also runs the dojo. He’s in appropriately t r a d i t i o n a l i n d i g o - d y e d w e a r, s o m e t h i n g like a judo outfit, topped off with a slightly modernized chonmage topknot. But he immediately dispels any worries that we’re going to be fed old clichés. “Real ninja didn’t wear black!” he exclaims. “It’s not like what they show on TV and in the movies. They didn’t really use throwing stars, but more often used rocks, or other things they could find all around them.” He explained that their role was most often as hired guns, people with special skills who would be summoned from their homes in this area by the ruling Koga family in what is today neighboring Shiga Prefecture.
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So with some local history and a revised view of ninja under our belts, Murata-san says it’s time to make a start for today’s destination—heading down from Kumagawa Juku to the flatlands below, slightly to the north and then up from the base of Mt. Kumotani for a day of sawanobori ( 沢登り ), which literally translates to “stream climbing” or more loosely canyoneering—and today we are headed up the Imako River into the heart of the mountain. The area lies just to the southwest of Mikata Lake, the southernmost of the five lakes of Wakasa. The van heads up and up an increasingly rough and rugged road bouncing into the deep valleys of this mountainous area. “I think it’s a very Japanese style of river experience,” Murata-san says. “There’s a series of waterfalls that we can climb as we go up the Imako River. The climb is a lot of fun—and coming back on ropes down the waterfalls is really exciting!” Canyoneering usually conjures up images of wet-suited and helmeted adventurers clambering up along a swiftly flowing river (meaning it also can seem as though it’s a bit too, ah, “refreshing”). While all guests are in wetsuits, harnesses, helmets and non-slip boots, Murata-san stresses that the day’s trip is going to be a fun one. “The water is pretty warm throughout the climbing season, so we can stay in the water for long periods of time without having to worry too much about exposure,” he explains. “The water contains a lot of iron, so it’s also slightly yellow in color. It’s fun throughout the season, but I really recommend doing sawanobori in autumn, when the colors are really beautiful.” The adventure is as promised. After getting into wetsuits, helmets and harnesses, Murata-san and a few of his friendly guides check us out, give some quick instructions on how they will handle the ropes and how we will approach the flowing water, pools and waterfalls, and then begin the initial climb from the road up to the first of a series of waterfalls.
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It’s simply a lot of fun, clambering up wet rocks in the waterway with the steady hand of a guide on the rope in case of slipping. It’s almost even a little warm in the wetsuits (which, luckily, come in sizes big enough for even us 190-cm-plus people), but Murata-san gives us plenty of chances to take a slide into one of the natural pools below the falls and cool down in the water. It also is a very personalized experience: we met no other cars on the road, or other groups on the river. The terrain is a beautiful setting of deep forests and the winding river; we occasionally got glimpses of the nearby ocean through the trees, and almost wished we were on one of the longer courses that would take us higher up the mountain. After sliding and splashing back down the series of waterfalls along the river, too soon we’re back at the vans, ready to get out of the neoprene and back into normal clothes. “I usually suggest a four to five-hour course for first-time guests,” Murata-san says as we start down the rocky road. “The actual course we chose depends on the guest’s ability, experience and interest. We can even arrange for a course that families can enjoy safely. Or, if the guests are really genki, we can climb all the way to the summit of Mt. Kumotani. From there, they will have spectacular views of the other mountains in the area, the lakes and all along the coastline.” That’s the one I kind of hoped for, knowing what beautiful scenery lies all around Wakasa Bay—but that’s for the next trip. Safety is of course a main concern in sawanobori, so Murata-san takes no more than three guests with him, adding more guides as needed as the groups get larger (but, he says, they’re not interested in guiding large groups). After the challenge of scrambling up the warm, rocky river, the descent sees the guides lowering guests down the splashing waterfalls on ropes.
Along with providing the expert guides for the day, Plus Wild provides all the required equipment. The fee is ¥25,000 per person for two people, ¥20,000 each for three and gear rental fee is ¥3,000 (contact Murata-san for more information for larger groups). He adds that he doesn’t just guide during the warm months, but also leads snowshoeing tours in the hills in winter as well. You can book your sawanobori adventure with Plus Wild at pluswild. com. It’s a great experience in this beautiful setting, just one of the many things that make the historic, scenic and often very natural Wakasa area of Fukui such a special place on the Japan Sea coast. GETTING THERE
The Wakasa area of Fukui is nicely off the beaten path, so getting there makes for a bit of a journey— but it’s nice country along the way. F r o m To k y o , t a k e t h e To k a i d o Sanyo shinkansen to Kyoto Station; transfer there to the Thunderbird Express (if your timing/planning is good) to Omi-Imazu Station; otherwise, transfer at Kyoto Station for the local train on the TokaidoSanyo Line (which becomes the Kosei Line) to OmiImazu. From there, transfer to the Wakae Line bus for Tachibana-machi, the stop for Kumagawa Juku. Total time for the trip will be about three hours and 45 minutes if you catch the Thunderbird, or four hours 15 minutes by the local train. Murata-san will pick up sawanobori guests at Omi-Imazu Station, as will some area hotels. From Osaka, the fastest route is by Special Rapid Tsuruga train on the Tokaido-Sanyo/Kosei lines direct to Omi-Imazu, then by bus or your guide’s van to Kumagawa Juku. This will take about two hours; other trains will take about two and a half hours. v
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The
Oni Trail Hiking Coastal Kyoto BY RIE MIYOSHI
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Unkai (sea of clouds) from Mt. Oe
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egend has it that during the mid-Heian Period—more than a 1,000 years ago—a large number of people were reported missing from the capital city of Kyoto. According to a famous diviner, the kidnappings were traced to Shuten-doji, an oni (mystical ogre or demon) that lived in Mt. Oe in the northern Tanba Region of Kyoto, and these ogres were eating the missing people. A search party, led by a legendary warrior named Minamoto no Raiko, was sent out to defeat Shuten-doji. The men disguised themselves as yamabushi (mountain priests) and asked the oni for shelter during their “pilgrimage.” Over several bottles of sake, the alcohol-loving Shuten-doji warmed up to them and told the men the story of how he and the other oni were displaced from their ancestral Hira Mountains to the west of Lake Biwa when Enryakuji Temple was built. Unaffected by this sob story, Raiko offered poison-laced sake to Shuten-doji, which put him to sleep. Raiko and his warriors decapitated Shutendoji; even then, the severed head snapped back to life and aimed at Raiko’s head. Fortunately, Raiko was wearing two additional helmets and was able to defend himself. Some stories say the warriors triumphantly returned to Kyoto with the oni head, while others say it was buried at a mountain pass outside of the city as it was deemed unholy. The fable of Raiko and Shuten-doji is just one of many oni folklore stories in Japanese history. Oni are prevalent in Japanese children’s stories, usually as a way to scare kids straight. If they don’t behave, “the oni will come and eat you.” However, look a little closer and you might start to question some of these “historical” tales. The Oe Region was a strategic transportation and military location back in its day as travelers would pass the Oe Gate Station to get to Heijo-kyo, the old capital of Japan during the Nara Period. Security was high here to prevent suspicious or dangerous people from entering or exiting the capital. Later during the Muromachi Period, a sekisho (checking station) was set up here and this area was designated as one of four boundaries to rid Kyoto City from unclean influences coming from the outside world.
“Many traditional stories that were passed down were originally written as a form of propaganda to change the locals’ mindsets about the ruling government,” deducts Mao Nishiki from Adventure Tourism Kyoto. “The oni were always portrayed as ‘the bad guys,’ but some say the oni may not have been these evil ogres—rather, local rulers who were overthrown and exiled by the governing parties of their time.” To prevent citizens from following or turning to other leaders, these stories may have been written to scare people from venturing into unknown regions and meeting exiles and rebels. “ W h e n I t h o u g h t a b o u t i t t h i s w a y, m y perspective on oni changed,” says Nishiki. “It’s interesting how oni are so prevalent in childhood stories, but we don’t really know where these stories came from. They could have been local heroes!” While mapping out a walking trail in Tateiwa, on the northern tip of the Kyotango Peninsula, Nishiki learned about the annual Oni Matsuri held every December on the Day of the Ox. Tateiwa is home to another oni legend: a prince slaughtered an oni here and trapped it in an enormous rock overnight. They say that you can still hear the cries of the trapped oni on nights when the wind is strong and waves are high. Residents have long practiced this ancient ritual by keeping very still and quiet in their homes on this particular day, hoping to sink the oni spirit in Tateiwa. HIKING THE ONI TRAIL Pagoda at Narai-ji Temple
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Amanohashidate
Celebrating the deeply rooted oni culture of the region, Adventure Tourism Kyoto has created the Oni Trail, a 100-kilometer trek connecting Oe to Tateiwa. This walk takes eight days, but travelers can opt for shorter versions as there are plenty of places to drop in or out along the way. Although it’s technically part of Kyoto, this region, called Tango, offers a varied, rural landscape: the trail takes travelers to quiet mountainous hamlets, coastal fishing towns and majestic, ancient temples. Most days consist of three to five hours of hiking. While the trails aren't treacherous, it’s best to wear comfortable hiking or walking shoes. The four-day “Highlights” version of the Oni Trail is perfect for visitors with limited time in Kyoto. The journey starts at Oe Station, a 90-minute train ride from Kyoto Station on the JR Hashidate Line. Oni culture is everywhere here: the light three-hour trek from the station up to Mt. Oe is dotted with oni statues, masks and signs. At the foot of Mt. Oe is the Oni Museum, conveniently located next to a mountain lodge where hikers can end their first day. While not a particularly tall mountain, the 832-meter Mt. Oe is popular for its mid-mountain lookout spot with great sunrise views of the unkai (sea of clouds) hovering over the villages below. It takes roughly three hours from the base to the summit following the Miyazu Kaido. This stone-paved kodo (ancient path) was built during the Heian and Edo periods. The trail detours to Kaya Yama no Ie, a refurbished mountain lodge that serves a delicious course dinner of local organic vegetables and wild game. Their taproom serves Kyoto Brewing Company’s beers, which use locally grown Yosano hops. The third day goes from the mountains to the ocean. After descending Mt. Oe, take the train from Kita Station to Miyazu, a port city that prospered during the Edo Period. This is an eclectic town of cultures and religions as it was one of the towns where missionaries and cargo ships arrived. Today it is home to Miyazu Catholic Church, the oldest church still in operation in Japan; while the exterior is built in the Romanesque style, the interior is lined with tatami mat floors. Another architectural delight is Seikiro, once an inn for writers and artists. It still operates as a ryokan today and was awarded as a small Japanese art museum as it houses numerous paintings and artifacts. The kaiseki dinner includes seasonal seafood from the nearby ports; every winter, guests come here for snow crab.
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The final day is a trip to Amanohashidate, a three-kilometer natural sandbar lined with thousands of pine trees. Amanohashidate is said to be a sacred bridge to the heavens, and is designated as one of the Nihon Sankei, Japan’s three most scenic views. The bridge connects to the Kyotango Peninsula. Continue hiking up to Narai-ji Temple, which has a five-storied pagoda and bird’s eye views of Amanohashidate and the ocean. There’s a direct express train from Amanohashidate to Kyoto Station. The Oni Trail continues north up the Kyotango Peninsula, eventually reaching the UNESCO San’in Kaigan Geopark on the Sea of Japan coast. In summer, this area is popular for stand-up paddling and surfing. GETTING THERE From Kyoto Station, take the JR Hashidate Line to Oe Station (100 minutes). There is also a train back to Kyoto Station from Amanohashidate Station (two hours and six minutes) or Amino Station at the tip of Kyotango Peninsula (two hours and 42 minutes). For more information, visit kyototourism.org/en. v
CYCLING. E-BIKE. LONG-TRAIL HIKING. Outdoor Activities & Guided Tours in Kyoto’s Countryside Even the old capital of Kyoto has its roots. A wild and ancient Kyoto awaits beyond the city. Step into a world of 1,300-year-old pilgrimage routes, cobblestone-paths walked by samurai, generals and demons. Cycle through a historic thatched-roof village and folklore-rich mountains to a UNESCO Global Geopark Coastline. Adventure Tourism Kyoto believes the true value of travel lies in the transformations that occur within travelers through authentic experiences, harmony with the environment and sustainably supporting local communities.
www.kyototourism.org/en/adventuretours Spring 2022 | 25
SOLACE AND GIANT SALAMANDERS IN AKIOTA BY RIE MIYOSHI
Therapeutic forest walks and encounters with Japanese giant salamanders are among the outdoor experiences that lie just beyond Hiroshima.
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magine a valley with a river so clean, it’s one of the last remaining homes to a mysticallike creature: the Japanese giant salamander. Researchers from all over Japan visit Sandankyo Gorge in central Japan to study this near-extinct amphibian. The fully aquatic salamander can grow up to one-and-a-half-meters long and live up to 80 years, but due to its size and lack of gills, it is confined to fresh, flowing water with an abundance of oxygen. Unfortunately, pollution, dams and general urbanization have drastically decreased their habitat and numbers. The giant salamander is federally protected today. “We see various sizes of giant salamanders here in Sandankyo Gorge, which means it’s a breeding ground and, therefore a very clean, natural environment,” says Hisachika Kobayashi, a nature guide and kayak instructor. The nocturnal creatures are shy and tend to stick to the river floor, plus their mottled camouflage makes them hard to distinguish. If you’re lucky, you might spot one while swimming or kayaking. For those wanting to get a more in-depth experience (and possibly a greater chance to see these salamanders in action), the non-profit organization Sandankyo Ota River Study Group holds environmental workshops and sawanobori (shower climbing) tours. For more information, visit drops-hiroshima.com/tour. Sandankyo Gorge is a little-known outdoor mecca in central Japan, usually overseen by travelers visiting Hiroshima’s landmarks such as the Hiroshima Peace Memorial and Atomic Bomb Dome just an hour away. The gorge is part of Akiota Town,
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which was designated as Hiroshima’s first Forest Therapy Town in 2012. Today, the residents take great pride in their conservation efforts, from strict fishing regulations to their forest therapy education and programs. In winter, people from surrounding prefectures flock to Osorakan Snow Park, one of the biggest ski resorts in the region. “ O r i g i n a l l y, I m o v e d t o A k i o t a f o r snowboarding—yes, it snows here in Hiroshima!” says Kazuhisa Hamaguchi, a forest therapy and snowshoe guide. “It doesn’t snow as often compared to up north, but when it does—usually twice or three times a year—backcountry snowboarding on Mt. Shinyu almost makes me feel like I’m riding powder in Niseko or Hakuba.” But what really drew Hamaguchi to stay was the green season. “The outdoors easily became my backyard,” he says. “From spring to autumn, I can easily go on hikes, enjoy the river, go fishing or camping, and of course, go on shinrinyoku walks.” Shinrinyoku (forest therapy) is less about hiking to a destination and more about enjoying the journey, walking slowly and immersing yourself in the forest and feeling with all your senses. It started in Japan in the ‘80s and has been praised for its physical and mental health benefits by providing exposure to phytoncides, natural substances released by trees that ward off germs. Research has shown that even just a half hour of forest therapy relieves stress, lowers blood pressure, boosts immunity and alleviates tension and fatigue. In fact, some healthcare systems around the world cover forest therapy as part of mental care.
There are several forest therapy courses in Akiota, the two main ones being Mt. Shinyu, a threekilometer gradual uphill trail, and Sandankyo Gorge which leads to several waterfalls including Nidan Falls. “Nidan Falls is special for us because we can get to experience it up close, and also it’s hidden away because there are no walking paths to get there,” says Ryosuke Uchida, a pack raft guide. To get to Nidan Falls, you’ll have to either pack raft or ride a ten-person wooden boat through a narrow passage. Moving the boat is no easy feat, as the boat master has to pull a series of ropes strung throughout the passage like telephone wires. A standard oar or paddle won’t work here for a boat this size as the river floor is very deep. The trip costs ¥500 for adults and ¥300 for children. Another recommended forest therapy course starts at Osorakan Snow Park, or rather Osorakan Ecology Campsite in summer. The therapy road is less than four kilometers long. Back at the base, you can enjoy camping, ziplining and a sauna. Although faced with a decreasing population, Akiota works with elderly craftsmen and farmers to provide cultural experiences and educational workshops for the next generation. Before Akiota Town started placing its efforts on outdoor recreation, it was primarily a farming and logging village, from which arts and crafts arose. Temple and shrine carpenters who worked on Miyajima, Hiroshima’s famous shrine on the water, sourced their wood from this region and passed down woodturning skills. Today, Fumio Yokohata, one of the descendants of these craftsmen, continues a nearly 200-year-old tradition at Yokohata workshop carving spoons. He’s
been carrying on the wood carving tradition for 70 years. Visitors can participate in a spoon making workshop and bring back a homemade souvenir (¥5,000 for the workshop). For more information, visit yokohata-craft.com/html/experience.html. Nestled along a road just behind the workshop is Yokohata Farmstay run by a charming couple, Masami and Ryoko Yokohata. Guests can harvest vegetables and learn Japanese cooking using ingredients from the farm. Depending on the season, you can also try your hand at mochi making. “We want our guests to feel like they’re coming home, in the same way we greet our children and grandchildren when they visit us,” says Yokohata. Not to be missed is kagura, a Shinto ritual dance often performed at small shrines and festivals. Kagura is a combination of dramatic dances, elaborate masks and costumes accompanied by powerful music, usually retelling a mystical tale with warriors fighting oni (demons). Akiota is still home to sixteen kagura groups. Sandankyo Gorge and Akiota Town can best be enjoyed over three or four days and recommended for travelers who want to get a bit of outdoors and local culture while passing through Hiroshima or heading down to Shikoku. For more information or to book experiences and tours, visit cs-akiota.or.jp. GETTING THERE Public transportation in Akiota is limited, so it’s best to rent a car from Hiroshima Airport and drive to Akiota (90 minutes). Alternatively, if you are already in Hiroshima City, take bus #75 heading to Sandankyo Gorge from bus stop 7 at the Hiroshima Bus Center. v
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