HVAR PARADISE PABLO DE MELLO
HVAR PARADISE
TROVNA BEACH
PAKLINSKI ISLANDS
VRBOSKA HVAR TOWN ZARACE BEACH
PALMIZANA
POKONJI MILNA BEACH BEACH
SOLINE BEACH
STARI GRAD
JELSA DUBOVICA BEACH PISCENA BEACH SVETA NEDJELJA JAGODNA BEACH BEACH
ADRIATIC SEA
CONTENTS
4
INTRO
6
HVAR TOWN
14 16 20 22 FRANCISCAN MONASTERY
FORTICA
BONJ BEACH
POKONJI BEACH
34 36 38 40 STARI GRAD
2
SPLIT
DUBROVNIK
GENERAL INFO
HVAR PARADISE
HVAR ISLAND MAP EUROPA
CROATIA
MALA STINIVA BEACH
TVRDNI DOLAC BEACH
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HISTORY
SUCURAJ
3 10 12 113 ST STEPHAN SQUARE
ARSENAL
LOGGIA & THEATER
24 28 30 32 STRAND BEACH
MILNA BEACH
DUBOVICA BEACH
Graphic Design and Photography by Pablo de Mello Travel done in September of 2020 London | 2021
PAKLINSKI ISLANDS
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Claiming to be the sunniest spot in all of Europe, the Croatian island of Hvar is the perfect destination for tourists seeking the beauty of Mediterranean beaches without the crowds associated with more well-known destinations. Lately, the worldvide celebrities are coming here to see what is it about. And what is Hvar really about? While separation from the mainland can sometimes be a handicap, it also provides some protection from the factory chimneys and other misfortunes which come with civilisation. Instead, there are vast fields of lavender, ancient olive trees and vineyards, in immaculate harmony between man and nature. There are wine and olives, so a guest wishing to get closer to nature will stop at a small inn (Hvar “konoba”) rather than a top quality restaurant. He will taste real home-made wine instead of some famous sparkling wine, he will sing the old island songs and forget the monotony of the everyday routine. Through the centuries, an oasis of culture has remained here, a testimony to the identity. Hvar has celebrated 140 years of organised tourism, and today it is considered to be one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world. We invite you to explore this unique island that offers everything one needs for an unforgettable holidays. Whatever you are looking for on your vacation, you may find it here; night life and cultural attractions of cosmopolitan Hvar town, boat excursions to Pakleni Islands, sandy beaches near Jelsa, the ancient town Stari Grad in which past centuries mingle with modern tourist facilities, heavenly beaches under pine trees in Zavala, exotic atmosphere of south cliffs in Ivan Dolac, Sveta Nedjelja or MIlna, the “little Venice” ambient in Vrboska, drive trough and sense lavander fields near Zastrazisce, Gdinj and Bogomolje, peaceful secluded bays near Sucuraj ... this is just a fraction of it ... you need to explore it. Rich cultural and historic heritage of Hvar, that dates back to pre-historic times, unique gastronomy, beautiful beaches and bays , crystal blue sea, high quality accommodation in apartments and rooms at private houses, hotels, and the hospitality of the local people are the guarantees of a holidays in Hvar you will always remember.
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Hvar Island, the Queen of the Croatian Dalmatian islands
HVAR TOWN Welcome to Hvar, an ancient town with a rich history on the island in the Croatian Adriatic Sea with the same name. Hvar is proud that it has the most sunny hours of all the islands in the Adriatic Sea. Many people say of the town Hvar that it is a town as from a fairy- tale because its arhitecture, wonderful nature and its mild climate. Everbody can find in Hvar all what gives peace to the soul and relaxation to he body. From the sea, we get the sight of a waterfront promenade strip bordered with a row of palm trees and seven 6
centuries old walls, overtopped by the fortresses protecting Hvar, extending downwards to the town and to the Venetian loggia. Coming from the central part of the island or using the road from the ferry harbour we arrive at the magnificent piazza, a square generally considered the most beautiful of the kind in Dalmatia, dominated by St. Stephen’s Cathedral and bordered by the palaces of Groda and by the cascading stonebuilt houses of Burag. But, no matter from which point this town is approached, Hvar straightway
presents itself as a monument. Centuries have ground its stone, epochs, above all renaissance, have shaped its appearance. Monuments within monuments, monuments on monuments. Hvar is a jewel hidden by the time. We advice you to visit the fortress Fortica (Spanjola), the cathedral of Hvar, the theatre of Hvar (established in 1612) with the arsenal and the Franciscan monastery. The nightlife in Hvar is what attracts the numerous young people from around
St. Tropez, Majorca, Aspen, and other glamour destinations don’t have anything on Hvar, the glitzy Croatian playground patronized by celebrities, the idle rich, and the Average Joe tourist who wants to be part of the Hvar hoopla. Hvar is indeed a lush, sunny Shangrila, with more hours of sunshine (than any other place in Croatia.
world. A typical partianer day in Hvar involves getting up near noon, having a fresh fish with domestic vegetables and virgin olive oil, then taking a place in excursion boat to one of the Pakleni Island bays, enyojing perfect sea and beautiful people around. Hanging in caffes in the afternoon and wondering around old stone streets, visiting arhitectural attractions is just a warm up for the cocktail evening in Carpe Diem, and/or disco night in Fortica till the morning.
A special delight of the tourist offer of Hvar is the stay in untouched bays in the near of the town which you can reach by car, by bicycle or at a pleasant walk through Mediterranean landscapes. It is possible to swimm in these bays, and in almost everyone there is a restaurant or a adequate place for refreshment. If we add to these natural beauties the excellent private accommodation with Mediterranean cordiality and kindness of the hosts then Hvar becomes an ideal holiday destination for couples and
families with small children. Hvar displays with pride the oldest municipal theatre in Europe. Hvar has been built through time by notable domestic and foreign architects. Hvar has been celebrated in verses. Hvar has been painted by the painters. But Hvar town itself is the best narrator of its own story. It is enough to come and see for oneself. That way we shall touch the piece of the legend. 7
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HISTORY The first inhabitants of Hvar Island were neolithic people who probably established trade links between Hvar and the eastern shores of the Mediterranean. Around 385BC, Greeks from the island of Paros, aided by Dionysius the Elder and settlers from Issa (now Vis Island) founded the agricultural colony of Faros (now Stari Grad). The local population conflicted with the Greeks and, in the oldest historically confirmed naval battle, the Greek navy from Issa devastated the islanders even with reinforcements from the mainland (around 365BC). After the first Illyrian War of 230BC, a Greek ally of the Illyrians made Faros the centre of a confederation of several nearby islands. He was defeated by the Romans in the battle of Faros in 219BC. The town was razed to the ground and never recovered. The only trace of this 8
Hvar is the most famous of all Croatian islands. It is best known for its turquoise waters, lavender fields, 2.800 hours of sunshine a year, good nightlife, and as a summer refuge for the rich and famous. ancient town which remains are the ruins of the Greek walls. The most interesting reminders of the ancient Greeks is the Stari Grad plain, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The plain is a land division laid down by the Pharians that is so well-preserved, it’s even visible by satellite. Each colonist received a plot of land measuring exactly 906 x 181 meters upon which they grew grain for subsistence and export. In the 7th and 8th centuries, the Slavic
Neretlyan tribe dominated the island but as the centuries rolled on Hvar came to know a long series of rulers. In the 9th century, the island fell under Byzantine rule and in the 11th century Hvar became a part of Croatia’s King Petar Kresimir. The first intrusion of Venice onto Hvar Island occurred in the 12th century but it was not to last. Again came Byzantium and then the Croatian kings (from 1180 to 1278). At the time, the pirates of Omis became a growing threat on the Adriatic coast. Hvar couldn’t go it alone against the pirates so they turned to Venice for protection. Venice was only too happy to oblige. In 1331, Hvar became officially part of the Venetian empire although Venice’s rule was shaky at first. Hvar accepted the rule of the Croatian kings
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Hvar has been welcoming visitors for millennia. On the sailing route of both trade and pilgrimages, Hvar has always been a strategic point of interest, from modern sailing tourists to previous invading armies. Its history is as fascinating as the island itself.
again, then Bosnian King Tvrtko and then in 1413, the Republic of Ragusa (Dubrovnik). The Venetians moved from Stari Grad to Hvar town in the middle of the 15th century in order to take advantage of Hvar’s wide, sheltered harbor. They protected their investment by building a defensive system of walls and fortifications on the landward side of Hvar town. Although the Venetians lasted until the fall of the republic in 1797, their rule was rocky. In the 15th century there were violent clashes between the Hvar commoners and the aristocracy. The most serious uprising occurred from 1510 to 1514 but Venice crushed it ruthlessly and twenty rebel leaders were hanged. The island became prosperous from fishing, boatbuilding and cultivating lavender, rosemary and olives. It reached its heyday in the Renaissance when its riches attracted poets, writers and scientists. After the Venetians,
Hvar was a part of Austria. It must be pointed out that in 1686 a group of people from Hvar led by Bishop Juraj Duboković founded a professional tourist association called the Hygienic Society of Hvar whose goal was to promote and develop the tourist offer of Hvar. Therefore, this year is taken as the beginning of organised tourism on the island. Also in 1900, a therapeutic hotel sponsored by Queen Elizabeth was erected on the foundations of Knežev dvor (Prince’s Palace) (today’s Hotel Palace). The Kingdom of Yugoslavia also marked a short period of Hvar’s history. It was a period of massive emigrations from the island, but nevertheless, funds were secured for the development of the tourist offer. The seaside resort Bonj was being constructed at the time and it was considered to be one of the nicest such beaches on the Adriatic. In the years after WWII, Hvar turned
into a fashionable tourist seaside resort and thanks to its interesting history and rich culture, that was under the influence of various civilisations and its unsurpassable natural beauty, Hvar became one of the most attractive tourist destinations on the Adriatic. Since 1991, Hvar has been a part of the independent Republic of Croatia and became the main focus of the general Croatian tourist offer. The exceptional beauty of the island of Hvar was reflected in the inexhaustible inspirations, both of the great men of Hvar, as well as of the newcomers, from which all the representative churches, palaces, valuable paintings, sculptures and renowned and recognised literary works originated. Visit the island of Hvar and enjoy the island’s rich cultural heritage in a stroll that will take you through the long centuries of its existence. 9
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SQUARE OF ST. STEPHEN Hvarska Pjaca (Square of St. Stephen), Cathedral of St. Stephen and episcopal palace, Hvar. If you visit Hvar, all the streets will lead you to Hvarska pjaca (Hvar’s square), the centre of city’s public and social life and the largest square in Dalmatia. The eastern side of the square is surrounded by the Cathedral of St. Stephen that was built on the foundations of an early-Christian church from the 6th century and that acquired its present appearance in the 16th and 17thcentury. 10
The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Stephen, a pope and martyr, the protector of the Diocese and the city of Hvar. The renaissance bell-tower of the Cathedral and Hvar’s other bell towers (St. Mark, Franciscan and the ruined one of St. Venerande) are considered to be the nicest ones in Dalmatia. Hvar’s Cathedral preserves many valuable items and paintings of famous painters like Stefano Celesti, Palma Junior and the Spanish painter Juan Boschettus, but the most renowned painting is
definitely Madonna, an example of the proto-Venetian art and one of the oldest in Dalmatia originating back in 1220. As one of the most important historical buildings in Hvar, you can find links back to the ancient origins of the town. Inside the bell tower is a stone relief of a Roman ship from the second century. And in the southern part of the small adjoining square, you’ll find a monument of the winged Erote from the same period.
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ARSENAL Mentioned in Venetian documents as ‘the most beautiful and the most useful building in the whole of Dalmatia’, the Arsenal once served as a repair and refitting station for war galleons. Its present incarnation was built in 1611 to replace a building destroyed by the Ottomans. Although you can’t enter through the large, graceful arch, you can wander up the stairs to the terrace to enjoy the views over Hvar’s attractive harbour. Upstairs is an atmospheric theatre decorated with frescos and baroque 12
loggias. Opened in 1612, it’s said to be the first theatre in Europe to have admitted plebeians and aristocrats alike. It remained a regional cultural centre throughout the centuries and plays were still staged here right up until 2008. In 2016, the remains of a 1st-century Roman building were discovered beneath the floor. The entire complex has been closed for restoration for many years now, but parts have been completed and are occasionally used for special events.
TICKET PRICE 50KN PER PERSON
OPENING HOURS 12AM - 12 PM
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LOGGIA The first Croatian Loggia in Hvar was first mentioned in 1289 and referred to again in the Statute of Hvar in 1331. Its location and appearance, however, remain unknown. The construction of the new loggia began in the 15th century and was completed in the 16th century. During the Turkish invasion
The Clock Tower, originally a part of the city wall, also belongs to the remains of the Governor’s Palace, which was demolished at the end of the 19th century. The clock was installed in 1466 under the rule of Duke Venier. The tower also holds a bell from 1564, decorated with religious motifs.
in 1571, the building was severely damaged by fire but later restored. The elegant façade with its miniaturelike obelisks was created by the Late Renaissance master Tripun Bokanić in the early 17th century. During the Venetian rule the loggia served as a courthouse. Public auctions for
collecting tax and customs revenues also took place in this building. At the beginning of the 20th century, the once adjacent Governor’s Palace gave way to the spa hotel “Empress Elisabeth”. The loggia served as spa salon, café, reading room, and dance hall and was the meeting place of Croatia’s social elite.
THEATRE Upstairs is an atmospheric theatre decorated with frescos and baroque loggias. Opened in 1612, it’s said to be the first theatre in Europe to have admitted plebeians and aristocrats alike. It remained a regional cultural centre throughout the centuries and plays were still staged here right up until 2008.
Mentioned in Venetian documents as ‘the most beautiful and the most useful building in the whole of Dalmatia’, the Arsenal once served as a repair and refitting station for war galleons. Its present incarnation was built in 1611
to replace a building destroyed by the Ottomans. Although you can’t enter through the large, graceful arch, you can wander up the stairs to the terrace to enjoy the views over Hvar’s attractive harbour.
In 2016, the remains of a 1st-century Roman building were discovered beneath the floor. The entire complex has been closed for restoration for many years now, but parts have been completed and are occasionally used for special events. 13
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FRANCISCAN MONASTERY In the bay of the Cross, on a small peninsula, in the 15th century a Franciscan monastery was built together with the church of Saint Mary of Mercy. Architecturaly proportional bell-tower, together with the one of Saint Mark and the Cathedral one creates an exceptional vertical frame of the town. Relief of the church portrays ‘’Denouncement’’ and it came from the workshop of Petar Fiorentinac. The church keeps a painting of the crucifixion of Christ by Leonardo Basan, poliptih by Francesco de Santa Croce and paintings of the passion of Christ by a Hvar comediographer Martin BenetoviC – the author of ‘’Hvarkinja’’ (the woman from Hvar). The western wall of the monastery refectory holds a painting of the Last Supper, one of the most famous paintings on the Adriatic
TICKET PRICE OPENING HOURS 25KN PER PERSON 9am–3pm, 5–7pm
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coast made on the tradition of Venetian painters Veronese and Tintoretti. Traditionally it is attributed to Mateo Rosseli, but according to recent studies to one of our painters Mateo Ponzzoni PonCun. The monastery museum holds valuable paintings, collection of money, incunabulas and a copy of Ptolemy’s atlas from 1524. A famous old cypress tree grows in the monastery garden, besides its old age known also for its amorphic form. This ancient cypress does not grow in height as other specimens of that kind, but with its flat branches grows horizontally across the garden. The Way of the Cross leads from the monastery to town, marked by 14 chapels representing 14 Stations of the Cross, built in the 18th century.
TELEPHONE +385 21 741 193
WEBSITE www.visit-hvar.com
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FORTICA Hvar’s Venetian ort, Fortiza or Spanjola (in local usage), is a highlight of any visit to Hvar town. Its striking position perched on top of a 100m high hill makes it hard to miss, which of course was the point. The climb up to the fort is gentle and pleasant and the views from the top are majestic. The multi-leveled fortification system has been well-restored, vividly evoking the days when Hvar was a lynchpin of the Venetian empire. Together with the town walls, Fortiza protected the towns for centuries and was so important to the development of Hvar that its image is on the town’s coat-of-arms. The Venetians completed the fort in 1551 but the foundations were laid much earlier, probably to protect an earlier Illyrian settlement in the first millennium BC. This early fort later became the site of a Byzantine citadel probably around the 6th century AD. Traces of this earlier fortress can be found on the southern side of Fortiza.
Enjoy an unforgettable sunset from Fortica. Besides experiencing its exquisite architecture, you will experience an unforgettable panoramic view of the city of Hvar, its surroundings and the Pakleni islands.
Construction of the current fortress began in 1282 shortly after the town turned to the Venetians for protection against the pirates rampaging through the Adriatic. Nevertheless it was the town that financed the construction from the proceeds of selling salt. At one point in the 14th century, Spanish engineers participated in the project which is how the fort acquired its nickname, Spanjola.
TICKET PRICE OPENING HOURS 40KN PER PERSON 9am– 9pm
When Turks attacked the town in 1571, the entire population took shelter within the fort as the town was plundered and set on fire. Only eight years later however, a lightening bolt struck the fort igniting a store of gunpowder which blew up and caused substantial damage to the fort and its substructure. Repairs ensued and when the Austrians took over in the early 19th century, the fortress was remodeled with larger barracks and raised battlements. By the end of the century though, Hvar had lost its strategic importance and the fort fell into disrepair. Before its recent overhaul and transformation into a historic monument, the fortress was the site of a popular disco. The reconstruction of the fort evokes its former grandeur when it was composed of four circular bastions, a tower and walls with battlements, traces of which can still be seen. In addition to admiring the canons pointed out to the see, it’s possible to descend into a “prison” and admire the collection of amphorae collected from the surrounding sea. It takes about 20 minutes to walk from the town up to the fort and it’s a pretty walk. If you walk from the square to the north, passing the main city gate or Porta di datallo (Gate of Dates) ascending the stairs through the old part of the city. The most direct approach is to take the stairs next to Cafe Loco and climb to a road before taking more stairs. The path is wellsignposted.
TELEPHONE WEBSITE + 385 21 742 588 www.visit-hvar.com
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The beaches on Hvar are really spectacular and among the best in Croatia
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BONJ BEACH Bonj beach in Hvar is one of the most attractive and well-kept beaches in this popular island town. If you have rented an apartment, room or holiday house in Hvar, you will easily find a beach that adorns many lists of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, and that offers everything you might want on the beach. Although located within the hotel complex, Bonj beach in Hvar is open to all. The marvelous architecture of 20
the beach dates back to the early 20th century - there are landscaped terraces, paved with white stone and vaulted with pillars that carry other floors, offering an intimate space to enjoy the sun’s touches and the joyful sounds of the sea and summer. Docks with the sun loungers and changing cabins are just a part of the facilities for swimmers and all those who seek more at the beach. Enjoy!
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BONJ LES BAINS The beach also includes an exclusive club, Bonj Les Bains. This architectural jewel from 1927 has been labeled one of the hottest European beaches. From black-tie gala dinners to summer-casual all-white cocktail, the smooth white stone columns of Bonj go just as well with tuxedos as they do with linen slacks. This shore colonnade turned private luxury beach club lends its unsurpassed waterfront ambiance and unique architecture for stand-up soirees of more than 200 people.
TICKET PRICE 27€ PER PERSON
OPENING HOURS 11am– 7pm
WEBSITE www.beachhvar.com
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A magnificent bay with the biggest cobble stone beach in Hvar besides plenty of sunshine and crystal clear sea offers delicious dishes in the nearby restaurants.
POKONJI BEACH The Pokonji Dol Beach is probably the most popular beach in the town of Hvar. Pokonji Dol is located in a small bay on the eastern outskirts of Hvar and is best reached on foot or by bicycle due to the limited number of parking spaces here. In the bay, many boats like to moor here. The view overlooks the small offshore island of the same name on which a lighthouse is located. The beautiful sandy beach has a fairly gently sloping
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shore making it popular with families. It is rocky towards the edges of the beach. The swimming area is marked. Some places in the water are scattered with large stones, which is why bathing shoes are not such a bad idea. The beach, framed by lush vegetation, has several beach bars, a restaurant and pedal boat rentals. There are also showers in addition to parasol and lounge chair rentals.
TRAVEL TIME 25 min
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STRAND MEKIĆEVICA A picturesque bay not far from Hvar can be reached by boat from the port of Hvar or walking along the coast line from Pokonji dol. There are two pebble beaches ideal for those who love the scents of Mediterranean plants, and sounds and smells of sea waves especially in the afternoon hours. Beaches are partly for the nudes. The restaurant Robinson surrounded by olive trees offers numerous Dalmatian
specialities. Once you reach Pokonji dol Beach, maybe stop, have a beer. Then keep going. Walk past both restaurants and back to the footpath. Follow that along the water and through the light woods until you hit Robinson Beach. You’ll know it when ya get there. There is a restaurant and a wonderful beach. Not many people make the trek out, so it’s not nearly as crowded as other beach options. 25
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MILNA BEACH Milna is situated 6 km away from the town of Hvar, in a protected cove with two sandy beaches, separated from each other by a pine forest. Milna provides all opportunities for pleasant vacations, both in summer and winter months. On the eastern slopes above the bay, there is a village of Malo Grablje. In the vicinity there are several beautiful and peaceful beaches and coves. In Milna there is a market and seven restaurants where you can
MILNA BEACH
eat and enjoy fresh fish, home grown vegetables, olive oil and domestic wine. Every day trips are arranged for islands around Hvar: Vis, Bisevo, Korcula, Mljet. For recreation there are tennis courts, scuba diving, small boat rentals and a special attraction - donkey riding. Milna is an ideal vacation spot for those that seek peace and tranquility during the day, and nightlife and fun during the hot summer nights in the nearby town of Hvar.
TRAVEL TIME 25 min
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DUBOVICA BEACH Some 8 km east from the city of Hvar on the south shore of the island of Hvar is situated the picturesque cove Dubovica, a well known picnic area with a spacious pebble beach and interesting underwater landscape. Renown for its long countryside tradition it offers a vacation far away from the city noise with a view of the countryside house of the Kasandrić family from the 18th / 19th century. Although the Dubovica beach on Hvar is quite famous, few people can praise that they have spent some hours there. This is not because of the crowd, but due to the parking places at the top of the cove and the goat’s path that leads to the beach, so few decide to take that path. However, it is the advantage of this beach as that 30
path is protecting it from the summer buzz of many swimmers. The path to the beach is steep, runs through low vegetation and a maquis, and aromatic bushes offer no sun protection. The walk lasts ten minutes or so and leads to smooth pebbly stripe, with little natural shade and no additional content. The beach is a true example of contemporary luxury. Dubovica Bay is located between Old Town and the town of Hvar on the southern coast of the island. The bay is also famous for a
DUBOVICA BEACH
small family restaurant that leans on the beach and offers homemade delicious island food. Dubovica beach on Hvar is paradise. While visiting Dubovica you can enjoy what the restaurant has to offer that is located right on the beach. An amazing underwater area provides unforgettable moments for those who love diving. Dubovica is ideal for families with children and diving enthusiasts. Dubovica can be reached by boat from the Hvar harbour or by automobile.
TRAVEL TIME 30 MIN
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A magnificent bay with the biggest cobble stone beach in Hvar besides plenty of sunshine and crystal clear sea offers delicious dishes in the nearby restaurants.
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Legend says that the Pakleni Islands came into existence as a result of a secret love between the sea god Poseidon and a nymph. Even today it’s easy to see why this lovely necklace of little islands that surrounds the town of Hvar is so special.
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PAKLINSKI ISLANDS Hvar is not just a gorgeous island and charming town, it’s also the centre of the Hvar Riviera which comprises a cluster of offshore islets that are among the best the Adriatic has to offer. Taking its name from ‘Paklina’, a resin once used to coat ships, the Pakleni Islands offer small, secluded beaches, deserted coves and sun-drenched hills. The closest island is Galesnik, directly opposite Hvar town and now known for Eco-Ethno Island Hvar, a popular dining spot. Behind it is Jerolim, named after a now-disappeared church. Jerolim is a favourite among naturists who
generally stroll away from the main jetty and stretch out on one of the shady coves. The islet is rocky but there are pine trees and maquis for shade. it’s conveniently equipped with showers and a shop. Nearby is the other island of Marinkovac which contains Stipanska, now the site of the flashy Carpe Diem Beach Club. Another idyllic cove on Marinkovac is Zdrilca which has several pebble beaches. The largest Pakleni island is Sveti Klement (sometimes called Veliki Otok or Big Island) most famous for beautiful Palmizana hamlet.
Here, azure waves lick a sandy cove surrounded by pine forests, heather fields and breezes scented by aromatic herbs. Palmizana has been a favourite getaway for Hvar islanders since the turn of the 20th century when a Professor Eugen Meneghello built a summer house and inn there, the Meneghello Place. This idyllic spot now hosts villas, an art gallery and Zori restaurant and lounge bar. Nearby Vlaka is a small fishing village reachable in an easy hour walk from Palmizana. Scuba divers love Palmizana for the vibrant underwater life.
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Without any doubt, the town of Stari Grad is something special. Specific combination of historical events that helped shape the place together with physical evidence that serve as a proof of turbulent past makes this town so unique and unlike any other place on Earth
The town of Stari Grad was a rather popular place throughout history, a “good catch” so to speak and many a people wanted a piece of it. Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Slavs, Venetians, Turks and AustroHungarians all walked upon this tiny fraction of a land located right under the bright Mediterranean sun. Some of them came to bring progress; some of them came to destroy it but all of them left something behind. And their traces can still be seen upon the city’s contours – in its monuments, in its more or less modest residential architecture, upon its streets and around its squares. However, some places have an aura 34
stronger than others. One of the main town’s attractions is Stari Grad Plain also known as Ager or Hora. Greek colonists from the island of Paros founded a polis (independent citystate) in the year 384 BC at the place of today’s Stari Grad and called it Pharos. The most probable reason for founding a polis at this particular place is that the land in hinterland of the site was extremely fertile. What is left from the Greeks to this date is preserved division of the field with its paths. In fact, Stari Grad Plain presents the best preserved cadastral plan in the whole Mediterranean area and because of that it has been UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008.
The other probable reason for polis being here is the perfectly and naturally sheltered 5 nautical miles deep bay located in the western part of the island. That same quality is recognized even today what caused the town of Stari Grad being a popular nautical destination for all those who are not into the whole “seen and be seen” scene so typical for town of Hvar, island’s capital. Another “must see” place is the church of St. John. Stari Grad people declared themselves Christians in the 5th century and they build the church in the same place where today St. John’s church stands. The most magnificent version of the church was, however, built in the 6th
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STARI GRAD century when twin basilica was raised together with baptistery and some other auxiliary facilities. The remains of this architectural edifice, with its ruins and early Christian mosaic can still be seen inside and around today’s church of St. John. When talking about monuments and architecture, the “brightest star” of Stari Grad Town is, in fact, the palace Tvrdalj with its fishpond and garden located inside the complex. Tvrdalj is for sure the most romantic manmade place in Stari Grad Town.The complex dates back to 15th century and it is the idea of the Renaissance poet, erudite and architect Petar Hektorović. “Tvrdalj” represents this humanist’s life philosophy transferred into stone structure that was supposed to be a safe heaven for all of God’s creatures – fish, birds, plants and humans. Architecturally speaking, this is a structure that combines leisure and defensive architecture what resulted in this special form of fortified Renaissance leisure villa. The
villa consists of a residential area and salt-water fishpond with a porch and garden. The entire complex is dedicated to the “Creator of all things” – Omnium Conditori. However, Hektorović is primarily a poet. His most important work is “Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje” (Fishing and Fishermen’s Talk). It is a pastoral and narrative poem in which Hektorović describes his three-day voyage from Hvar to Bra and Šolta islands accompanied by fishermen. It is the first Croatian literary travelogue in verse. One other site that we strongly recommend is a parish church of St. Stephen and Dominican Monastery of St. Peter. Within the monastery there is a small in size, but far from modest art collection that contains some of the greatest treasures of Stari Grad Town such as the painting of a famous Renaissance painter Jacopo Tintoretto titled “Lamentation of Christ”. Make sure you visit Škor as well. It is one
of the most beautiful little baroque squares in the Mediterranean. Other hidden jewels of Stari Grad Town we will let you discover yourself... Rich history, numerous churches, museums, lovely little art galleries and shops (!! we LOVE Maya Con Dios, Fantazam, Justinart, Bikarija) make this town a popular destination for artists and both culture and history enthusiasts. If you are among those it is imperative that you visit the Biankini Palace
STARI GRAD
TICKET PRICE 27KN PER PERSON
TRAVEL TIME 2 hrs
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SPLIT Most of the travels to Hvar start from the second Croatia’s largest city, Split. It is worthy of spending a day getting lost on its narrows streets and wondering about its glorious past. The story of Split is already 17 centuries old, dating to the time the Roman Emperor Diocletian decided to build his Palace right on the peninsula near the great Roman city Salona, where he wanted to spend the last years of his life. During these 1700 years the Palace slowly turned into a city, which to this day lures with its rich tradition, glorious history and beauty of its natural and cultural heritage. Diocletian Palace and the entire historical core of Split have been on the World Heritage UNESCO list ever since 1979, and not only for the extraordinary 36
preservation of the Palace, but also because the Palace and its city (or the city and its Palace, if you like) continue to live a full life. All historical layers from the old Rome, middle ages till today are still visible and alive in this structure. A walk through the ancient city takes you through time, along the great examples of ancient architecture like Peristyle, the middle aged Romanesque Church and Gothic Palace, Renaissance portals of the noblemen’s houses, Baroque facades and modern architecture superbly merged in the rich heritage. Such stratification is mirrored in everyday life of Split. Local inhabitants sit in the same cafes, restaurants, shop in the same stores as tourists, giving them the impression that, by
arriving to Split, they became a part of the city and its rhythm. The vegetable market and the fish market represent the centre of each family’s life in Split, just as the entire social life of this city of 200 thousand reflects on the Riva (waterfront), where every guest should endeavour to have his coffee alongside noisy, temperamental folk of Split. Split is much more than glorious architectural scenery. Split is also a venue for excellent gourmet and vine experiences, numerous cultural happenings like film and theatre festivals, exhibitions, excellent museums and concerts, a city which offers eclectic modes of entertainment starting with numerous clubs and bars, through street festivals to events such as Ultra
HVAR PARADISE
Split, Croatia’s second-largest city, is the main town in Dalmatia with an ancient centre formed around the Palace of Diocletian, the Roman emperor.
Europe Festival visited each year by up to 100 thousand young people from around one hundred countries of the world. When you tire of the city bustle, there’s Marjan, hill symbol over the city, with its forest, jogging trails, mountain climbing and biking, recreational terrains, but also the ancient churches where the late citizens of Split sought spiritual peace. Also very unusual to find in a city the size of Split are the numerous beaches with extraordinarily clean sea, from the well known Bačvice to the stone secluded oases’ all around Marjan. After all that’s said are you at all surprised that citizens of Split have a saying “There is no place like Split”?
Diocletian’s Palace is the main attraction in the city. It is one of Croatia’s top sights, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a fascinating place to explore. If you’re thinking palace like Versailles however, think again because it’s really more like a city within a city. It actually covers the entire city centre forming the heart of today’s Split. Emperor Diocletian was Dalmatia’s most outstanding contribution to the Roman empire. When he retired to his birthplace he decided to built this monumental fortified palace. It measures 215m from east to west and the walls are 26m high. Poised between the classical and the medieval Christian civilisation, it is a compendium of all the styles that preceded it. Now, it is a commercial and residential centre, a development which dates to the 7th century when residents fled to the walled palace to escape invading barbarians. 37
The Pearl of the Adriatic Regardless of whether you are visiting Dubrovnik for the first time or the hundredth, the sense of awe never fails to descend when you set eyes on the beauty of the old town. Indeed it’s hard to imagine anyone becoming jaded by the city’s limestone streets, baroque buildings and the endless shimmer of the Adriatic, or failing to be inspired by a walk along the ancient city walls that protected the capital of a sophisticated republic for centuries.
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DUBROVNIK A must attraction for those in Hvar is to spend a day trip to the impressive Dubrovnik. Jutting out into the Adriatic Sea with a backdrop of rugged limestone mountains, Dubrovnik Old Town is known as one of the world’s finest and most perfectly preserved medieval cities in the world. For centuries, Dubrovnik rivalled Venice as a trading port, with its huge sturdy stone walls, built between the 11th and 17th centuries, affording protection to this former city-state. Today, these walls still enclose Dubrovnik’s historic centre and it is possible to walk along them to enjoy the best views of the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ and the surrounding lush green islands. Dubrovnik’s Baroque churches, monasteries and palaces; its Renaissance fountains and facades, are all intertwined with gleaming wide marble-paved squares, steep cobbled streets and houses, all of which have also remained unchanged for centuries. The remarkable preservation of the
neatly contained Dubrovnik centre, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the result of meticulous reconstruction after the earthquake of 1667. Many renovations were also done to return the city to its former splendour after it was attacked during the civil war of the early 1990s. Today, all new building work is strictly controlled, right down to the shade of green used on
the shutters of the buildings in the main street, the ‘Stradun’. Although Dubrovnik has much to offer in terms of historical sightseeing, part of its allure lies in the fact that it is still a lived-in city, vibrant and bustling with locals whose homes line the narrow streets and sunlit squares. As well as visiting the churches, palaces and museums, the visitor can also enjoy markets, bazaars, cafes, bars and restaurants. In the summer, there is also a choice of a few nightclubs and discos and of course the famous Dubrovnik Summer Festival in July and August, which includes cultural events such as outdoor concerts, opera and ballet. All year round you can see theatre plays in the local theatre. See more info about cultural events in the town. One can easily take the daily ferry from Hvar and, after 3 hours of relaxing journey through a awesome piece of sea, get there. 39
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GENERAL INFO CROATIA
VISA
LANGUAGE
With thousands of miles of seafront and more than a thousand islands, Croatia’s coastline is Central Europe’s Riviera. Holiday-makers love its pebbly beaches, balmy summer weather, and dramatic mountains. With a population of around 4 million people and a territory of about 56 thousand squared kilometers, Croatia is known for its sun and amazing landscapes. Zagreb is Croatian capital and Split is tje second largest city.
Part of the EU, visa requirements for Croatia are in line with the rest of the union. Read on below for the current visa regulations, as well as some relatively recent changes.
Croatian (hrvatski jezik) is a Slavic language that arrived in the Balkans region with the migration of the Slavs in the 6th century. The majority of Croatians speak at least one other language. According to a recent poll, some 80% of Croatians are multilingual and, of that group, 81% are Englishspeakers. Even if you speak absolutely no Croatian, it’s worth learning a few words before going on holiday. If you make the effort, even just to say thank you or goodbye in the local language, you might just make someone’s day!
But there’s history here as well: from ruined Roman arenas and Byzantine mosaics to Venetian bell towers, Habsburg villas, and even communist concrete, past rulers have left their mark. Most travelers flock to the Dalmatian Coast, where dramatic cliffs rise from the deep and islands are scattered just offshore. But savvy travelers make time for more: the Venetian-flavored Kvarner Gulf and Istrian Peninsula, the stunning waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes, and Zagreb, the nation’s engaging capital. 40
Even prior to EU entry, many foreign visitors did not normally require visas to enter Croatia. Citizens of the U.K., EU countries, the U.S., Canada, Australia and New Zealand did not (and do not) need visas to visit Croatia. Visitors can visit Croatia for up to 90 days in any 180 day period. For other countries, please check the Croatian Ministry of Foreign Affairs‘ website for visa requirements for Croatia. If you do need a visa, please contact the Croatian Embassy in your country for more information.
WEBSITE www.visit-croatia.co.uk/
USEFUL WORDS da – yes ne – no hvala – thank you molim – please bok – hi or bye Izvoli! – you’re welcome možda – maybe oprosti – excuse me Dobro jutro! – Good morning! Dobar dan! – Good day! Dobra veer! – Good evening! Dovienja! – Goodbye! Kako si (ti)? – How are you? Ja sam dobro. – I’m fine.
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WEATHER
ARRIVING
CURRENCY
Hvar has the most hours of sunshine in Croatia. In winter there is a “no snow guarantee” in many hotels. If it’s snowing then the night is free. The island, like most of the Southern Adriatic region, experiences a Mediterranean climate which entails dry, hot summers and mild, though moist, winters (even in December, the average temperature is a tolerable 10.2°C). The highest recorded temperature for this resort is 37°C of 1935. The average temperature remains above 10°C throughout most of the year; it only drops below that mark in January and February and even then, not by very much. The sea tends to be even warmer than the air except during the summer period (June to September) when the standard temperature is over 20°C. Hvar experiences little rainfall during the summer months. July usually sees the least rain for the whole year with an average of 23mms. So, don’t forget to bring a sunscreen, sunglasses, a sun hat, a pair of flipflops and plenty of bath and light clothes.
Generally, if you travel by car, bus or train, you need to reach Split or Drvenik in central Dalmatia, where you can take a ferry to Hvar. Ferries Split - Stari Grad (Hvar), and Drvenik Sućuraj take cars. If you go by plane, the closest local and international airports are Split, Dubrovnik and Brac airport, and then you need to take a local bus, rent a car, or take a taxi to Hvar. There are also international ferry lines to Hvar (from Italy), and ferry lines along the coast which stop in Hvar. When you see Hvar and start to enjoy in its benefits you will know that your journey has paid off. The easiest way of reaching Hvar (assuming you’re not bringing a car with you!) is to take one of the daily catamarans from Split to the island. Jadrolinija operate a year-round daily catamaran from Split to Hvar Town, that then travels on to the islands of Korcula (Vela Luka) and Lastovo (Ubli); journey time to Hvar Town is just over one hour. During the peak summer months they operate additional services.
The Croatian currency is the Kuna (not the Euro!), which is divided into 100 lipas. When listed as a price, Kuna is abbreviated to Kn. The word ‘Kuna’ means marten, a weasel-like animal, whose fur Croats used as payment many centuries ago. It is not difficult to purchase Kunas before your travel in exchange stores. Alternatively, you may be to able take a bank card/cash card instead. This avoids the need to travel with large-ish amounts of cash, and ATMs are readily available in almost all resorts and cities in Croatia, in banks, supermarkets, airports and elsewhere. Even small islands (but not all!) usually have at least one ATM. This really is one of the easiest ways of obtaining money in Croatia. You will find that you can pay in some places – private accommodation, taxis – in Euros. Do note that this is entirely on an unofficial basis; the Euro is NOT an official currency and NO business/individual is required to accept them as payment.
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HVAR, THE QUEEN OF THE CROATIAN DALMATIAN ISLANDS