Chronos 105

For the Curious, The Collector and the Connoisseur

17th of September 1755. In the offices of the solicitor Mr. Choisy, a young Master Watchmaker from Geneva named Jean-Marc Vacheron is about to hire his first apprentice. This agreement is the first known reference to the founding watchmaker of a prestigious dynasty and it represents the establishment of Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watchmaking manufacturer in the world in continuous operation.

Ever since this agreement, and true to the history that built its reputation, Vacheron Constantin has been committed to passing on its knowledge to each of its Master Watchmakers in order to guarantee the excellence and durability of its craftsmanship and of its timepieces.

Pebble Beach TUDOR Launch

Fall/Winter 2013 $6.95

Santos de Cartier American Modern Museum of Modern Art

Patrimony Contemporaine

fall/winter 2013

Hallmark of Geneva, Pink gold case, Hand-wound mechanical movement Réf. 81180/000R-9159

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Number one hundred five

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee

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arceau le temps suspendu la montre hermès reinvents time and sets it to the tempo of your desires. press on the pushbutton and suspend time. beneath the dial, time continues to run within the heart of the mechanism. another push on the button sets the date and hands running again. time resumes its march, and you the course of your day. this exclusive hermès calibre is a world première.

hermès, time reinvented.

F-35 Lightning II™ Flight Calculation/Chronograph No. 9388: 45mm, stainless steel case, screw down crown & case back, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, bidirectional rotating bezel with black aluminum slide rule ring, dial ring with tachymetric scale, genuine black leather strap with orange contrast stitching and signature buckle, water resistant to 200 meters, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

Preferred timepiece of Military and Commercial Pilots.

1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com

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The Luminox F-35 Lightning II™ Series is part of the

www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox

Collection.

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Fall/Winter 2013

No. 105

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Page 40

62 Petal Power

by Carol Besler

Editor's Outline

10 News

68

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63rd Annual Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance

by Denis L. Tanney

Previews

Let Go, All! Page 42

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76

Jaeger-LeCoultre Anniversary Collection

by Carol Besler

American Modern at the Museum of Modern Art

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Porsche by Design: Seducing Speed at the North Carolina Museum of Art

by Stuart Leuthner

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Let Go, All Cartier and the Santos-Dumont story

by Stuart Leuthner

Page 76

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Movado’s Modern Classics

Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion

by Denis L. Tanney

58 Ischia Island

by Giovanni Mattera-Vairo

Porsche by Design

Seducing Speed Page 80

94 Watch Collector

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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the October/November issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557

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Editor'S Outline Tradition and Innovation – two concepts central to our articles in this issue. Our stories indicate how the re-examination of a belief, and opinion or a theory can result in transformation and change in the world around us. On our cover Jaeger-LeCoultre and the story on page 34 about their Anniversary Collection. As one of the original Swiss heritage brands, its founders were at the forefront of the first golden age of watchmaking. Founded 180 years ago Jaeger-LeCoultre is still a member of today’s elite watchmaking culture, now in its second golden age of innovation. Collections like the Hybris Mecanica Series of complicated watches put Jaeger-LeCoultre in the top one percent of watch brands today that are making new inroads into watchmaking, both in terms of movement development and the use of new materials.

Launched at Cartier’s Rue de Paix store in 1911, the Santos de Cartier was the first commercial wristwatch designed specifically for men. Alberto Santos-Dumont had a great dream – that man should learn to fly. His approach to his dream of flight was practical, direct and unhampered by the doubts of others. Louis Cartier, the legendary jeweler and design genius, approached his art with the same dedication and belief in his creative mastery. His solution for a pilot’s problem, combining elegance, function and accuracy would change time-keeping forever.

See story on page 42.

Porsche by Design: Seducing Speed on page 80, is about a museum’s first design show held at the North Carolina Museum of Art (NCMA) located in Raleigh, NC. Exhibitions of exceptional automobiles have become extremely popular with art museums. This is the first museum design show in the United States to feature a selection of automobiles manufactured by one company. The organizers of the exhibition believe Porsche by Design: Seducing Speed will appeal to two groups. Car lovers will appreciate the automobile’s rarity and engineering genius. Art lovers will be intrigued by Porsche design and the connections that can be drawn with other works of art. All will gain deep appreciation for its beauty, artistry, technology and innovation.

Art from An Age of Transformation is a current exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art. Entitled “American Modern – Hopper to O’Keefe”, this collection of works from 1915 to 1950 illustrates the preoccupations of that era’s rapidly changing society. Including paintings, drawings, prints, photographs and sculptures by more than 50 artistic, the exhibition presents art that depicts the transformation over the first half of the 20th century of the United States from a largely rural, regional power to an urbanized interconnection super power. This transformation also lead to many cultural changes. See story on page 76.

Our coverage of the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion on page 86 and the 63rd Annual Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance on page 68 reflects once again how lifestyles and innovations mold events.

At the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion the entry list seems to grow each year and includes over 530 cars. The car owners are from all over the world and their cars are from as early as 1911 right up to the modern machines of the mid 1980’s – everything from a Ford to a Ferrari. This event seems to be the largest gathering of vintage racecars in America.

The Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance is a show by invitation only, with lots of rules that govern it and make it the most difficult car show to be invited to and participate in. A unique feature of this show is the view into the future provided by the concept cars that are displayed at Pebble Beach.

Rolex is the prime title sponsor of this event which has withstood the test of 63 years and continues to lead the world as the highest form of any car show in existence.

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964

©2013 CHANEL®, Inc. J 12®

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Watch in high-tech ceramic. Moonphase complication with aventurine counter.

Available in classic or diamond version. chAnel boutiques 800.550.0005 chAnel.coM

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news Fall/Winter 2013 Vacheron salutes Millepied and Paris Opera Ballet Vacheron Constantin recently hosted a dinner in honor of the appointment of Benjamin Millepied as the director of the Paris Opera Ballet. The dinner was held along with the American Friends of the Paris Opera Ballet and the Consulate General of France, where the dinner was held. Attendees included Millepied’s wife, Natalie Portman, journalist Lesley Stahl, choreographer Christopher Wheeldon and patrons Lily Safra and Anne Bass.

“We are delighted to celebrate Benjamin Millepied’s appointment with our fellow supporters of the Paris Opera Ballet,” said Vacheron Constantin president Hugues de Pins. “Vacheron Constantin is a patron of ballet institutions throughout the world, including The Royal Ballet School and New York City Ballet, along with the Paris Opera Ballet. Supporting the American Friends of Paris Opera Ballet is not only a natural extension of our commitment, but a real pleasure.” During dinner, the 80 guests were entertained by an exclusive performance by violinist Tim Fain, who appeared in and collaborated with Millepied in the film “Black Swan.”

No. 105

PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Jay Lazar ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind Watch & Jewelry Editor Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher TECHNICAL WRITER David Christianson AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING CIRCULATION 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com

Vacheron Constantin president Hugues de Pin, Natalie Portman and Benjamin Millepied

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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557.

Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.

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Chrono

Schaumburg Watch Ice Crystal

T HERE ARE STORIES THAT DESERVE TO BE CAPTURED FOREVER.

Created in 1931 for polo players, the Reverso is one of the rare cult watches in horological history. Its second face that may be personalised will enable you to choose exactly the moment you wish to remember forever. What will yours be? Let our engraving, enamelling and gemsetting artists immortalise your legend. A Reverso just for you.

GRANDE REVERSO ULTRA THIN TRIBUTE TO 1931. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822.

YOU DESERVE A REAL WATCH.

Frisco, TX p:(214)494-4241

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Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684

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news Rolex Grand Am Celebrates Final Awards Ceremony Gotham Hall in New York City, hosted the final Rolex sponsored Grand Am awards banquet on Monday night September 30th.

The magnificent old structure that once served as part of the stock market was the perfect venue for this glorious evening. After 14 tremendously successful years the series ended with a huge crowd and lots of awards for its deserving champions in all classes and categories. Grand Am and The American Lemans Series have officially merged beginning in 2014 as the Tudor United Sports Car Series. On Monday evening everyone celebrated – the recipients as well as the general crowd of nearly 800 people. Second generation driver Jordan Taylor and first time champion (son of team owner Wayne Taylor) joined his codriver Max Angelelli, second time champion in the main arena of Daytona Prototype racing. They successfully took the title in their Corvette powered Riley DP. Interestingly enough Max Angelelli won his first championship title with Jordan’s dad Wayne, back in 2005. The ceremony highlighted many winners and included a performance by The Voice winner, Cassadee Pope. Among those taking special honors were owner/driver of the No 44 Porsche GT3 car, John Potter who received the Bob Akin Award for top sportsman driver in the GT class and car No 42 owner/driver, Wayne Nonnamaker receiving the Jim Truman award for top DP sportsman driver.

Pictured from the left are newly crowned Rolex Grand Am Series Champions for 2013 Jordan Taylor and Max Angelelli showing off their new Rolex watches

Jacob & Co. taps swimsuit model for its latest jewelry campaign Jacob & Co., the legendary luxury watch and diamond jewelry house, teamed up with Sports Illustrated swimsuit model Natasha Barnard for its new women’s fine jewelry advertising campaign.

It features an elegant yet sexy Barnard wearing stunning pieces from Jacob & Co’s new fine jewelry collections. Barnard, who was discovered in her home country of South Africa at the age of 18, has recently been seen in campaigns for Guess and Wonderbra.

She is now the new face of Jacob & Co.’s new women’s fine jewelry campaign. Renowned fashion photographer Mani Zarrin shot the campaign in New York City.

Swimsuit model Natasha Barnard

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PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN The world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon watch White gold, 10.4 mm thick Piaget Manufacture movement 1270P Mechanical self-winding tourbillon movement

1-877-8PIAGET

NEW YORK - LAS VEGAS - SOUTH COAST PLAZA - BAL HARBOUR SHOP ONLINE AT WWW.PIAGET.COM

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©2013 movado group, inc.

news Passionate Paneristis meet for a good “time October 2 was “P-Day” for the Panerai timepiece collectors known as the Paneristis. Every year, lovers of all things Panerai from around the world meet for a day (usually stretching to a weekend) of festivities, culminating in a gala dinner. This year, 200 enthusiastic Paneristis came from as far away as Australia, Israel and the Philippines to the 12th annual event, held in Montreal, Canada.

The group is independent of Panerai, but the brand sponsored a cocktail party before the gala dinner, and created a special watch to mark the occasion: a Radiomir 1940 3 Days, with the inscription “Paneristi Forever” on the caseback. The Radiomir 1940 case is a hybrid, combining elements from Panerai’s first Radiomir case, launched in 1936 as part of a test prototype for the Italian Royal Navy, with the more robust Luminor case design that launched a decade later.

“It is always a high-spirited reunion when people with mutual interests come together to share their passions and life stories,” says Rafael Alvarez, president of Panerai North America. “This unique group is bound together by more than just the actual timepieces. They share a common bond and for them, Officine Panerai seems to be the most relevant manifestation of this bond in the mechanical watch world.”

The Radiomir 1940 3 Days, with the inscription “Paneristi Forever” on the caseback

The Paneristi community was formed in September 2000 by an English watch enthusiast. Over the course of the last decade, it has grown into an active and friendly community of worldwide lovers of Panerai. P-Day 13 will be held next year in Venice.

P-Day reception: the Paneristi meet for their annual Panerai fan club weekend in Montreal, Canada

Panerai at the Emmys The Panerai PAM 514 Radiomir 1940 3 Days

Actor Dylan McDermott wore a Panerai PAM 514 Radiomir 1940 3 Days timepiece to the 65th Emmy Awards last September

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©2013 movado group, inc.

Movado/Imtech mg003805a Proof 1

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MOVADO TC™ ULTRA-THIN CASE DESIGN IN STAINLESS STEEL WITH MODERN BLACK DIAL. MOVADO.COM

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news IWC hosts racing legend Lewis Hamilton Lewis Hamilton, the race car driver and friend of watch brand IWC Schaffhausen, paid a visit to IWC headquarters in Schaffhausen, Switzerland recently. The Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team driver learned about watchmaking, met IWC staff and journalists, and showed off his skills on a Formula 1 simulator. IWC is the official engineering partner of Mercedes Benz and the car maker’s AMG Patronas Formula 1 team.

The IWC Ingenieur Carbon Performance, with carbon fiber case, ceramic screw heads, titanium screws and rubber strap

Lewis Hamilton, brand ambassador and Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One Team driver, during his visit to the headquarters of the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer in Schaffhausen, Switzerland

TAG Heuer and the Oracle Team USA taste victory at the America’s Cup The TAG Heuer-sponsored Oracle Team USA celebrated its victory in the winner-take-all final of the 34th America’s Cup in September. “We are extremely proud of every member of this extraordinary crew and every component of this incredible boat,” says Stéphane Linder, TAG Heuer CEO and president after the race in San Francisco Bay. “Oracle Team USA showed amazing drive and guts, overcoming incredible adversity – losing boat one, getting docked two races and having to give up their star wing trimmer – but they kept their nerve, worked harder, and plowed on. And they pulled it off. It was a great and glorious moment, unprecedented in the world of competitive sailing, and we are very grateful to have been a part of it.”

The crew, led by helmsman Jimmy Spithill, at 34 the youngest skipper in America’s Cup history, successfully fought off eight match points by aggressively taking early leads and pushing their foiling AC72 to its fastest recorded speeds in the regatta.

The TAG Heuer-sponsored Oracle Team USA tastes victory at the America’s Cup

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CF

NO TIME TO RUN A MARATHON? THIS WATCH WILL DO IT FOR YOU.

PATRAVI EVOTEC POWERRESERVE The Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve is an impressive watch in its size and distinctive appearance. The peripherally mounted oscillating weight and the change-over mechanism of the big date testify to the horological innovative force of the Manufacture movement equipping this watch with its CFB A1002 function module. Avant-garde and impressive in both style and technology.

BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

WWW.CARL-F-BUCHERER.COM

800.395.4306

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news Only Watch Auction tops record in aid of Muscular Dystrophy Thirty-three of the world’s elite watch brands donated special, one-of-a-kind editions to the ONLY Watch Auction, which raised a record amount – 5,066,000 Euros – for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Held every two years since 2005 during the Monaco Yacht Show, the worldrenowned charitable fundraiser was the most successful benefit event organized by Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (AMM) to date.

Van Cleef & Arpels donated this special edition of its Lady Arpels Poetic Time watch to the ONLY Watch Auction

The Chopard L.U.C Tourbillon ONLY watch, with a hand engraved dial

The auction took place on September 28th at the Hotel Hermitage Monte Carlo, hosted by Luc Pettavino, President of AMM, in the presence of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco; watch brand CEOs and owners, collectors and philanthropists: more than 300 people in total, plus numerous bidders online and by phone from all over the world. In addition to 33 unique watches, a collection of 14 vintage magnum champagne bottles were sold under the hammer of Antiquorum Auctioneers.

The Chronoswiss “Three Apes” enameled watch for the ONLY Watch Auction

Every watch sold, with some of the top sellers fetching above their estimates, including the Patek Philippe 5004T Titanium (2.95-million Euros) and The Chronoswiss Three Apes (42,000 Euros).

Luc Pettavino, president of AMM, and his son, Paul, who suffers from Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy

This one-of-a-kind Patek Philippe 5004T was the highlight of the auction, selling for just under 3-million Euros

Bell & Ross salutes french fighter squadron Bell & Ross recently paid tribute to the French Air Force’s 3.3 Ardennes fighter squadron, which celebrated its 70th anniversary at the 133 Nancy-Ochey base in September.

An air show helped mark the anniversary, painting the sky in the colors of the 3.3 Ardennes, while on the ground, ceremonial drills, a presentation of decorations and parades marked this commemorative day.

Bell & Ross, known for its aviator watches, salutes the French Air Force’s 3.3 Ardennes fighter squadron

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13-C

Consideration to detail:

SIGNATURE GRAND TOURING AUTOMATIC Essential functions include Citizen’s exclusive caliber 9012 automatic movement with specially-designed rotor featuring 24 jewels viewed through an exhibition caseback.

Stainless case and bracelet.

Water resistant 200m. 44mm case.

Curved sapphire crystal.

citizen-signature.com Š2013 Citizen Watch Company

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previews Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980 Patek Philippe’s classic round watches are a brand tradition, but the Nautilus represents another tradition for the company. Its design is influenced by the nautical arts, a reference to watchmaking’s close ties to marine chronometers. The shape of the Nautilus, first launched in 1976, was inspired by a ship’s porthole. It is now a classic collection in the Patek Philippe family, and the sportiest of the brand’s models.

The newest Nautilus model is a chronograph, distinctive for its single minute and hour monocounter at 6 o’clock. It is driven by the self-winding Patek Philippe caliber CH 28-520 C, with 60-minute and 12-hour totalizers at 6 o’clock and a chronograph seconds hand on the center dial. The blue gradient dial has gold applied hour markers.

The 40.5mm case is either 18k rose gold or a combination of rose gold and steel, with bracelets to match.

Patek Philippe 212-218-1240 www.patek.com

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph, Ref. 5980 in 18k gold

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph, Ref.5980 in 18k gold and steel

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raymond-weil.com | maestro collection

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previews Danish Design Titanium Danish Design watches demonstrate all the distinctive characteristics that have made Scandinavian design justly famous. They are timeless, elegant and minimalist without any unnecessary detailing. The titanium model is very nostalgic-looking, with a comfortable bracelet of mesh steel and a carbon fiber bezel. The 42mm case is made of skin-friendly and lightweight titanium. The high quality quartz movement shows hours, minutes, seconds, day and date, plus time on a 24 hour scale. The watch features a scratch resistant sapphire crystal, and is water resistant to 50 meters.

Danish Design Envision Enterprises Inc. 212-245-0001 www.danishdesignwatches.com

Officine Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback This is the first chronograph to be made by Panerai using the new automatic caliber P.9100, with column-wheel construction, a Glucydur balance and Parechoc antishock device. It was made at the Panerai manufacture in Neuchatel, Switzerland.

With two barrels, it has a power reserve of three days. Panerai says the double spring barrels enable thinner, longer mainsprings to be used, which helps make the flow of energy smoother.

Officine Panerai 877-PANERAI www.panerai.com

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date The new Day-Date is a colorful version of the iconic model in a choice of striking cognac, cherry, chocolate, green or blue dials, with straps to match. The green and cognac versions are in 18k yellow gold. The blue and cherry versions are in 18k white gold, and the chocolate dial version is in 18k Everose (rose) gold. The exclusive hue of Rolex’s 18k Everose gold is enhanced by a touch of platinum. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters and features the signature Rolex cyclops lens.

Rolex 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com

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previews Corum Admirals Cup 38 The Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 is the brand’s first invisibly set diamond version of this iconic model. It is set with 1,444 diamonds and pink sapphires totaling 11.56 carats on the case, bezel, buckle and even the oscillating weight. The dial is set in a mosaicstyle floral motif using an adaptation of the invisible setting. The case is snow-set with diamonds. The watch contains the automatic caliber CO 082, the rotor of which, visible through the caseback, is set with diamonds and pink and purple sapphires.

Corum USA 954-279-1220 www.corum.ch

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Montblanc Star Classique Automatic The case and bracelet of this two-tone classic watch are made of 18k red gold and steel or in 18k yellow gold and steel. The automatic mechanical movement has a power reserve of 42 hours, with functions that include hours, minutes and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The design is minimalist, with a modestly sized 39mm case and a silver-grey dial with red gold-plated indexes and numerals, and red goldplated hands. It is water resistant to 30 meters.

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Montblanc 800-995-4810 www.montblanc.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin 41 The Master Ultra-Thin is a classic, slim dress watch that measures just 7.48mm thick.

Jaeger-LeCoultre specializes in ultra-thin mechanical watch movements, and the movement in this watch measures just 3.30mm thick. It contains the automatic caliber 898C, with a 43-hour power reserve. The eggshell sunburst dial features Dauphine hands and gold hour markers. The watch is 18k gold and the case is 41mm wide, hence the name.

Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com 24

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Ernest Borel Swiss Made since 1856

Cocktail Collection C

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ERNEST BOREL +1 877 566 1824 www.ernestborel.ch usa@ernestborel.ch

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previews 88 Rue Du Rhone Double 8 Origin This 45mm quartz chronograph from the 88 Rue Du Rhone Double 8 Origin collection is steel, with a brown dial and rose gold PVD Arabic numerals and pushbuttons. The central seconds hand is anchored by a numeral 8. There is a small seconds dial at 6 o’clock, overlapped by a double date window, an hour totalizer at 3 o’clock and a minutes counter at 9 o’clock.

88 Rue Du Rhone 212-737-8882 www.88rdr.com

Breitling’s TransOcean Chronograph Unitime In addition to serving as a ¼-second chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers, the Breitling Transocean Unitime has a date display and a unique world-time system that displays the time in 24 world cities simultaneously. An innovative double-disc system allows the user to change time zones, by adjusting all the indications (including the central hour hand, the 24-hour city disc and the date) in one smooth move by turning the crown. The movement is the Breitling self-winding Caliber B05.

Breitling USA 877-BREITLING www.Breitling.com

Chanel J12 Moon Phase The J12 has become the model in which Chanel showcases its new movements. The Moon Phase combines one of watchmaking’s most traditional complications – the tracking of lunar cycles. It does so with the backdrop of aventurine, a dark but sparkly quartz mineral that is used to depict the night sky. The rest of the dial is guilloched, with a discreet date index on the inner bezel. There are versions in Chanel’s signature white or black high-tech ceramic, with or without diamonds on the bezel, inner dial and moonphase aperture.

Chanel Inc. 800-550-0005 212-688-5055 www.chanel.com

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8,375

WW1 RÉGULATEUR Pink Gold · Limited Edition to 99 pieces Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 · information@bellrossusa.com · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com

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previews Girard-Perregaux Traveller Moon Phase and Large Date This incredibly realistic depiction of the face of the moon is created from a mineral glass that is metalized to create shades from black to gray. The precise lunar cycle only needs adjustment once in 122 years. It contains a manual wound movement. A patented mechanism causes the numerals in the large date window to jump to the next number within 15 milliseconds. The case is stainless steel.

Girard-Perregaux 877-846-3447 www.girard-perregaux.com

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Royal Oak Offshore is a self-winding chronograph, with date display and small seconds at 12 o’clock. The case is black ceramic with a matching black dial decorated in the brand’s signature Mega Tapisserie pattern. Bezel, crown and pushpieces are also made of ceramic. The white gold hour markers and luminescent hands create a contrast that makes the dial highly readable.

Audemars Piguet 888-214-6858 www.audemarspiguet.com

Arnold & Son TB Victory The designers of Arnold & Son's Instrument Collection took their inspiration from the distinctive instrument-like marine chronometers produced by John Arnold and his son, John Roger Arnold. The TB Victory is powered by the caliber A&S6103, the first automatic movement with an integrated true beat system to be developed, designed and manufactured entirely at Arnold & Son's workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The movement is decorated and rhodium treated.

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previews David Oscarson The Carl Linnaeus is the nineteenth in the David Oscarson series of Limited Edition writing instruments. The collection is a tribute to the great Swedish biologist and author of numerous volumes of technical works on the naming of living things.

Linnaeus gave each kind of plant and animal two names: the first name told the genus – or group – to which the plant or animal belonged. The second name described the species within that group. This two word system of naming is known as the binomial system of nomenclature.

The Carl Linnaeus series of writing instruments is produced in three primary color variations, each limited to 70 pieces, and the series includes fountain pens and roller balls. The plant and floral elements of this Limited Edition are a reminder of the great scientist’s love for nature. Inspired by his numerous great works, they feature multiple levels of guilloché engraving and seven colors of hot enamel. Production of translucent hard enamel demands the highest levels of patience, experience and skill. A five-year apprenticeship is required to ensure that the highest levels of quality will be met in each individual collection piece.

David Oscarson 636-458-4345 www.davidoscarson.com

“Blue Silver” from the David Oscarson Carl Linnaeus series of Limited Edition writing instruments

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“Red Gold” from the David Oscarson Carl Linnaeus series of Limited Edition writing instruments

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chrono

Cristiano Ronaldo

G

H

O

S

T

20 Time Zone GMT Black PVD Stainless Steel, Interchangeable Cage N e w Yo r k + 1 . 2 1 2 . 7 1 9 . 5 8 8 7 Geneva +41.22.310.6962 jacobandco.com

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previews Antoine Martin Perpetual Calendar Grand Balancier The 18k rose gold case of this watch is composed of 85 components, and features detachable strap lugs. The watch is driven by an in-house movement made with silicium components, and features an extra-large balance wheel. The movement bears the Geneva Seal, watchmaking’s most exclusive hallmark. Functions include a leap year indicator at 12 o’clock and vertical day and month displays.

Antoine Marti +41-41-500-2080 www.antoinemartin.ch

IWC Big Pilots Watch Perpetual Calendar Boutique Edition The black ceramic case and dial contrasted with bright red numerals and indices, makes this watch highly legible. The caseback and crown are titanium, which also makes it lightweight and therefore highly wearable. The watch is big, at 48mm, but the dial is optimized for legibility, with markings that glow at night.

The automatic movement has a seven-day power reserve and drives a perpetual moon phase display with double moon phases for the northern and southern hemispheres, as well as a rare four-digit year display.

IWC Schaffhausen 800-432-9330 www.iwc.com

Torgoen Swiss T33 The Swiss-made chronograph movement of the T33 is thermo-desensitized to withstand temperatures of 0-50 degrees Celsius. The watch has a super hardened K1 mineral crystal, a screwed-down stainless steel caseback and a high density webbing nylon strap with an Italian leather lining. It is water resistant to 100 meters. The hands and indexes have been treated with a long-lasting luminescent material. The functions, including chronograph totalizers, have been tested and used by pilots internationally.

Torgoen Swiss 201-560-0101 www.torgoen.com

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GLY A

ch at w t ilo p s t‘ ilo p e th , N A M IR A

AIRMAN 17 SPHAIR, REF. 3927, AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT, 46MM, 20 ATM

continuous fine swiss watch making since 1914

Swiss Watch Consultants LLC is the exclusive distributor of Glycine watches for the USA, Canada and the Caribbean.

For an authorized retailer near you call 603-206-5195 or e-mail info@swisswatchconsultants.com

GLY AIRMAN 17 SPHAIR 24_33Previews.indd 33 CHRONOS.indd 1

10/16/13 11/1/13 1:155:20 PMPM

Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee

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Heritage and Innovation in the Anniversary Collection

by Carol Besler

I

f any watch company has a reason to celebrate an anniversary, it is Jaeger-LeCoultre. As one of the original Swiss heritage brands, its founders were at the forefront of the first golden age of watchmaking – from about 1800 to 1870. Founded 180 years ago in 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre is a still a leading member of today’s elite watchmaking culture, now in its second golden age of innovation. Over the past 180 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has filed 400 patents.

Collections like the Hybris Mechanica series of complicated watches put Jaeger-LeCoultre in the top 1% of watch brands today that are making new inroads into watchmaking, both in terms of movement development and the use of new materials. This year, three new pieces in the limited-edition Jubilee Hommage à Antoine LeCoultre collection, dedicated to the brand’s founder, exemplify both the brand’s heritage and its modern-day innovations. They represent the accumulated technical achievements of the past 180 years of research and development The Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee is the star of the anniversary collection. It is the 10th work in the Hybris Mechanica series, dedicated to Grande Complication models, and the third in a series of spherical tourbillons created by Jaeger. The Gyrotourbillon 1 was introduced in 2004. It is also the timepiece that most closely represents both the brand’s heritage and its role as an innovator today.

The watch is a double-axis tourbillon with spherical-shaped cage, spherical balance wheel and ball-shaped hairspring, all representing modern-day interpretations of mechanical watchmaking. However, it is also the brand’s homage to one of watchmaking’s original inventions – the tourbillon – and the aesthetics were inspired by pocket watches of the 19th century, for which the tourbillon was originally invented.

The traditional understated hours and minutes dial evoke the days of classic, conservative styling.

The absence of an upper bridge – the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee is a flying tourbillon – provides a clearer view of the gyroscope-like carriage. It is actually composed of two carriages, one rotating every 60 seconds and the other, every 24 seconds. Both are made

of lightweight aluminum. The watch also incorporates a unique digital chronograph, with elapsed chronograph minutes recorded in what looks like a large date window. The movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 176 is the 1,242nd to be created by Jaeger-LeCoultre since its founding in 1833.

Only 75 pieces will be made.

Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee Calendar is another piece that represents both innovation and tradition. It was inspired by the brand’s 19th century perpetual calendar pocket watches.

It is driven by a new automatic flying tourbillon movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985, equipped with the brand’s unique, space-age cylindrical balance spring. The carriage is

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been inventing watches for nearly two centuries made of grade 5 titanium, and the balance wheel is made of 14k gold. Despite these new materials, and the spectacular show performed by the cylindrical balance, the watch possesses traditional characteristics as well: understated baton hour markers, a traditional minute track, dauphine hands and a silver-toned grained dial finish. The 22k gold rotor bears an engraving of the gold medal that Jaeger-LeCoultre won at the 1889 Paris Universal Exposition for its horological expertise.

The watch, with a platinum case, is issued in a limited edition of 180 pieces.

The third piece in the collection, the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee, is the epitome of the classic, minimalist men’s dress Fall/Winter 2013

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watch that defines understated luxury. It is a perfect representation of the brand’s heritage because Jaeger-LeCoultre, in fact, came into existence for the sole purpose of perfecting an extra-thin caliber. Horological minimalism is not an easy feat. As Jaeger-LeCoultre points out, “watch mechanisms naturally resist being pared down.” The manually wound JaegerLeCoultre Calibre 849 of the Master Ultra Thin measures a mere 1.85mm thick. In its platinum case, it measures just 4.05mm thick, which is thinner than just the sapphire crystal alone on some watches.

Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee

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Master Ultra Thin Jubilee

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Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Venice Film Festival and Carmen Chaplin As a longtime supporter of the Venice International Film Festival, and as its official sponsor, JaegerLeCoultre fittingly celebrated its 180th anniversary in the city during the festival in September. It was highlighted by a gala dinner at the newly restored Teatro La Fenice, attended by over 250 international guests, including Diane Kruger, the face of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ladies’ collections, as well as a friend of the brand, Carmen Chaplin.

Carmen Chaplin, an actor and filmmaker, and grandaughter of Charlie Chaplin, introduced herself to the brand when she chose a classic Reverso watch to star in a film she is working on. The film, entitled “Tryst in Paname,” documents the personal transformation of a woman who, in Chaplin’s words, “enters a hotel as one person, and exits as another.” The watch in the film was a Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin.

Chaplin has an affection for the brand for another reason. Her

grandfather, Charlie Chaplin owned a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch, which is still in the family, now owned by Carmen’s father, Michael Chaplin.

“Objects left always have more value than those in the store,” says Carmen.

Carmen Chaplin recently wrote and directed a film about time to commemorate its anniversary. “A Time for Everything” features three generations of women from the family: Carmen Chaplin, Patricia Chaplin and Uma Chaplin Bhalla, illustrating the idea of transmission, the passing of time and inheritance.

Charlie Chaplin lived in Vevey, Switzerland, for the last part of his life after fleeing the U.S. in the wake of McCarthyism following the Second World War. There is a full-life statue of him along the waterfront in Vevey. Carmen Chaplin’s parents still live in the house where Charlie settled in Vevey, but it is currently being converted into a museum, according Carmen.

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrated its 180th anniversary at a gala dinner at the Teatro La Fenice Opera House in Venice

Charlie Chaplin

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox owned

by Charlie Chaplin

Fall/Winter 2013

Carmen Chaplin wears a Jaeger-LeCoultre jewelry watch at the gala dinner at the Teatro La Fenice Opera House in Venice

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bsw14

Brillian ce mee ts

march 27 – april 3, 2014

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Tudor

takes New York

T

udor, the sporty sister brand to Rolex, has been making a splash in New York City to mark its return to the American market this fall.

On the final night of New York Fashion Week, Tudor hosted a lavish affair at the Frank Gehry-designed IAC Building, with guests including actor Alan Cumming, New York Mets’ Pitcher, Matt Harvey, actor Joey Slotnick and many of the country’s top jewelers and journalists. They were among the first to see the full collection of Tudor timepieces for men and women.

“We are thrilled to be back in the U.S., and the timing couldn’t be better,” says Russell Kelly, brand manager of Tudor Watch U.S.A. “Tudor’s rich heritage, retro-chic styling and outstanding quality will resonate strongly with the new wave of discerning watch enthusiasts here in America.”

Later in the month, Tudor parked its specially branded Audi R8 sports car in front of the Rolex boutique on Fifth Avenue, where the full collection of Tudor timepieces are available. The car commemorates the Tudor United SportsCar Championship sanctioned by the International Motor Sports Association (IMSA). Emblazoned on the side

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of the Audi is the iconic Tudor Grantour Chrono FlyBack watch, specifically created for sports car aficionados. The inaugural TUDOR United SportsCar Championship event will debut in January, 2014 and will include a schedule of 12 races. The Tudor United SportsCar Championship logo will be featured on every sports car, on the front and back of each driver’s uniform and branded on all the tracks, tents and trucks at each of the races. Tudor is also the World Timing Partner for both Ducati and the FIA World Endurance Championship.

The Tudor brand name was registered for Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, in 1926, and was relaunched in 2007 with a distinctive personality and a high level of independence in its design, manufacturing and communication. Tudor and Rolex are the two brands in the portfolio owned by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, which was set up in 1945 by the eponymous founder of Rolex.

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Pictured from left to right are Russell Kelly, TUDOR Watch U.S.A. Brand Manager Luke Sohn, TUDOR Watch U.S.A. Area Sales Manager Michael Hopper, TUDOR Watch U.S.A. Area Sales Manager Actor Alan Cumming attended the Tudor party on the final night of Fashion Week, at the IAC Building

Tudor watches were on display at the brand’s party on the final night of Fashion Week, at the IAC Building

The Tudor branded Audi R8 sports car in front of Wempe, where Tudor timepieces are available

Hank Siegel and Anne Russell of Hamilton Jewelers

Pictured from the left is Stewart Wicht, Rolex Watch U.S.A. President & CEO with Sophie Hauser and Ruediger Albers of Wempe Jeweler

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John Green of Lux Bond & Green with Nancy Siskind of Éclat International

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Let Go, All!

by Stuart Leuthner

“He was brave, and also imaginative.

He was small: short, nimble and very light.

”

He might himself have been designed for aviation.

– Santos-Dumont: A Study in Obsession written by Air Marshal Sir Peter Wykeham

L

aunched at Cartier's Rue de Paix store in 1911, the Santos de Cartier was the first commercial wristwatch designed specifically for men. Alberto Santos-Dumont’s approach to his dream of flight was practical and direct, unhampered by the doubts of others.

Louis Cartier approached his art with the same dedication and belief in his creative mastery. His solution for a pilot's problem - combining elegance, function and accuracy – would change timekeeping forever.

On a chilly, overcast afternoon on October 19, 1901, a slight, impeccably dressed gentleman – dark suit, high collar shirt and narrow brimmed Panama hat – studied the dark clouds scudding across the Parisian sky. Standing in a wicker basket suspended under a 100-foot long torpedo-shaped hydrogen filled gas bag, Alberto SantosDumont nodded at the men struggling to keep the fragile airship in check.

Alberto Santos-Dumont photographed in the early 1900s.

Always impeccably turned out, the Brazilian aviator would take to the air in a tailored suit, a high collared shirt, neck tie and a Panama hat Photo © Nelson Freire Lavenere-Wanderley/Sophie Helena Dodsworth Wanderly, Private Collection.

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"The ship," the Brazilian aviator recalled, "was rocked prettily by a mild fresh breeze. Impatient to be off I stood in my basket and gave the word to my crew manning the ropes: 'Let go, all!'" As the airship called No. 6 slowly lifted and turned east, Alberto advanced the throttle and focused on the hazy, filigree spire looming in the distance – the Eiffel Tower.

Alberto Santos-Dumont, born in 1873, was the youngest of seven children.

His father, an engineer, purchased large tracts of land in Brazil and eventually made a fortune as a coffee planter.

Alberto's favorite pastimes were playing with the coffee work's machines, reading Jules Verne's futuristic novels and building

model airplanes. When Alberto was seventeen, his family spent a month in Paris. In the late 1890s, the "City of Light" was at the height of la belle époque. Filled with gifted innovators in every aspect of civilized life, Paris provided the perfect environment for Alberto to pursue the great dream of his life - that man should learn to fly. Bidding his family farewell, the young man moved to Paris and hired tutors to instruct him in physics, chemistry, mechanics and electricity.

Hot air ballooning was a huge craze throughout Europe in the late 1890s.

Eager to "explore the aerial unknown", Alberto sought out Henri Laehambre and Alexis Machuron, the team who built the

balloon that Salomon Andree flew on his ill-fated attempt to reach the North Pole.

After one ascent as a passenger, Alberto was hooked and hired Laehambre and Machuron to build him two balloons, making numerous solo ascents in France and Belgium. Unhappy with his balloon's final destination being determined by "the caprices of the wind," Alberto designed and commissioned a series of dirigibles – powered airships that can be steered rather than simply drifting with the wind.

One of Alberto's dirigibles was a small runabout called Baladeuse (wanderer). The "Sportsman of the Air" would fly from his Avenue des Champs Elysses apartment to a nearby bistro. After the bistro’s Maitre d' secured the airship's guide rope to a railing, Alberto would descend on a ladder and spend a congenial afternoon with friends.

As dusk approached, he would ascend the ladder and navigate home.

"I thought of the time, sure to come," Alberto mused after one of his excursions, "when the owners of handy little airships will not be obliged to land in the street, but will have their guide ropes caught by their domestics and land on their roof gardens."

In 1900, Henri Deutsch de la Meutre, a wealthy oil baron and fan of early aviation, offered a prize of 125,000 francs to anyone who could fly from Parc Saint Cloud to the Eiffel Tower and back (a distance of 6.8 miles) in less than thirty minutes.

After several failed attempts during the summer of 1901, Alberto was once again aloft, determined to prove his airship was more than a rich eccentric's dangerous plaything. "On my way to the tower," he wrote, "I never looked down at the housetops of Paris: I navigated in a sea of white and azure seeing nothing but the goal."

Powered by a eighteen-horsepower, four-cylinder engine turning a six-foot wooden propeller made of silk stretched over a bamboo frame, No. 6 reached the Eiffel Tower in nine minutes, but shortly after circling the tower, the engine began to misfire. While those watching from the ground held their breath, the intrepid aeronaut left the safety of the After Santos-Dumont mastered flying dirigibles, he turned his focus to heavier-than-air flight.

The No. 15 biplane, featuring plywood wings, was not successful and broke up when taxing for a take-off in 1907 Photo Cartier Archives © Cartier

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Cruising the streets of Paris in his runabout Baladeuse (wanderer), SantosDumont mused, "I thought of the time, sure to come when the owners of handy little airships will not be obliged to land in the street, but will have their guide ropes caught by their domestics and land on their roof gardens" Photo www.historicwings.com

cockpit, crawled back along the gondola rail and adjusted the carburetor. Cheers were heard as the engine resumed its staccato chant. Once again at the controls of the airship, Alberto, with the engine now working at full power, passed above Longchamps racecourse, crossed the Seine, and reached the finish line with thirty seconds to spare.

He gave 75,000 francs of the prize money to the Paris Prefect of Police, instructing him to use it for the deserving poor of Paris and divided the rest among his employees, "who had been so long with me and to whose devotion I was glad to pay this tribute."

That evening, Alberto hosted a dinner at Maxim's Restaurant to celebrate his victory.

Among those invited was the legendary jeweler Louis Cartier. Two years younger than Alberto, Louis Cartier was the design genius who would be instrumental in transforming the House of Cartier into the world's most prestigious jeweler. King Edward VII described Cartier as "Jeweler to Kings, King of Jewelers."

At some point during the festivities, Alberto sought out Cartier. After relating the salient details of his winning flight, the aviator confided, "Louis, I do not have time under control in the air." He went on to explain leaving the cockpit to fix the cranky engine while the skittish airship was ninehundred feet in the air was risky. Taking his hands off the controls to fumble for his pocket watch while he was landing was inviting disaster.

Santos-Dumont at the controls of his Demoiselle ("Damselfly"). First flown in 1908, the airplane was the world's first ultra-light. In 1910, Popular Mechanics magazine published drawings of the Demoiselle and a French company constructed fifty units, but only managed to sell fifteen. Several replicas were built for the 1965 film "Those Magnificent Men in Their Flying Machines" Photo Cartier Archives Š Cartier

Echoing a proud heritage dating from the watch Louis Cartier designed for his friend and pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, this contemporary Santos-Dumont Skeleton's pink gold case measures 38.75 x 47.4 mm. Powered by a Cartier manual winding calibre 9614 MC, with skeletonized bridges forming Roman numerals. Presented on a leather strap Photo 2000 C Cartier 2011

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Let Go, All!

"And now, on October 19, 1901," Santos-Dumont wrote, 'the airship "SantosDumont No. 6, having been repaired with great celerity, I tried again for the Deutsch Prize – and won it!" A short time after the dirigible rounded the Eiffel Tower, its engine began to misfire and Santos-Dumont had to leave his cockpit, crawl back along the gondola rail and adjust the carburetor Photo © Dover Publications

"After I landed," Alberto told Cartier, "I did not yet know my exact time." Standing in his basket and waving his signature hat in the air, Alberto cried out, "Have I won?" The assembled throng roared, "Yes, Yes!" Intrigued by his friend's dilemma, Cartier retired to his workshop. Assisted by master watchmaker Edmond Jaeger, (the Jaeger of Jaeger-LeCoultre), Cartier designed the first timepiece meant to be worn on a man's wrist. Presented to Alberto in 1904, the watch featured a square gold case with rounded corners

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The first Santos de Cartier was presented to Albert Santos-Dumont in 1904, and was launched at Cartier's Rue de Paix store in 1911. Crafted in gold, powered by a round LeCoultre calibre 126 movement and fitted with a leather strap, the timepiece was the first commercial wristwatch designed specifically for men Photo Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier

and fully integrated lugs, a bezel anchored with eight utilitarian screws and a straight forward dial marking the hours with Roman numerals. A leather strap and gold buckle secured the watch to the aviator's wrist.

Alberto never took off again without his wristwatch and continued to build and fly dirigibles and airplanes until he was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis.

It was the end of his flying and perhaps, considering his temperament, the end of his life. Falling into a deep depression, the aviator sold his house, hangers,

workshops and aircraft and returned to Brazil. Despondent over his failing health and the use of airplanes as weapons during the Brazilian civil war Alberto burned his papers, diaries and records.

After his death, the city of Alberto's birth, Cabangu, changed its name to Santos-Dumont, a three-day truce was declared in the Brazilian civil war, and combatants from both sides lined up for miles to file past Le Petit Santos' open casket in Sao Paulo.

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30-something brothers Pierre and Elie Bernheim created a watch for their generation – stylish, Swiss and affordable

by Carol Besler

Pierre Bernheim, co-founder of 88 RUE DU RHONE, has a passion for flying planes

The Power Chrono is urban with a modern personality. This striking 88 RUE DU RHONE 45MM chronograph has a stainless steel with matt black PVD case that frames a dark grey dial with striking silver and black indexes, bright black “8” seconds hand and accents. Full of rugged masculine appeal, the Power Chrono is finished with a matt black strap and two date windows at 6 o’clock

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P

ierre Bernheim, the CEO of 88 Rue du Rhone, is a young entrepreneur who appreciates luxury from the point of view of a young consumer. Before he and his brother, Elie, created 88 Rue du Rhone, he felt there was something missing in the luxury watch market for his generation.

“My brother and I were traveling for our family business, Raymond Weil. We realized that there was a gap in the watch market in terms of Swiss made accessible luxury brands,” says Pierre. “You find either sporty or fashion brands for accessible prices, but they are not always quality products and even if they are Swiss made, the company is not always Swiss-based. That is why, despite the crisis, we really wanted to create a new brand and offer quality Swiss-made products at accessible prices, with the heritage and know-how of our family business.”

The result is a brand priced between $450 and $3000, with contemporary designs and both quartz and automatic movements. Launched in 2012, the watches are classic but contemporary and are all Swiss made, with some distinctive elements. “The styles are simple and sophisticated with small details that make each watch special: 88 on the crown, Rue du Rhone on the case side and a special guillochage on the dial with an 88 pattern. “I believe that luxury is in the details,” says Pierre. “High quality products are important and from a specific point of sales. 88RDR watches are wellmade but accessible. I am currently wearing the Power Chrono watch. It’s been a huge hit and I love that it is elegant and modern.”

Another passion for Pierre is flying. “My grandfather, Raymond Weil, taught me about flying planes when I was a child, and I fly with him often,” says Pierre. “This is what I consider luxury in my life, because I need some time for my passion. It’s easy to get caught up in work, work, work and I really enjoy flying as a pastime. Another luxury for me is spending time with my family.”

Pierre Bernheim , CEO of 88 RUE DU RHONE together with his brother, Elie Bernheim, wanted to create a watch that he could wear for the range of activities he participates in–from flying planes to playing with his children, going to business meetings and traveling. He needed a versatile watch, especially since he is traveling 70% of the year. He incorporates that luxurious but practical design aesthetic into 88 RUE DU RHONE. The name was chosen from Geneva’s most celebrated street, Rue du Rhone and the Rhone River that flows through the city. The 88 comes from the fact that the number is missing from the street; in its place is a view of the Rhone leaving Lake Geneva. It is also lucky. “Eight is the lucky number in China and we thought we really needed luck in the recent tough financial times,” says Pierre. “Since we are two brothers, we thought we needed double luck!”

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88R

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(9776) Chronos 2013 Issue 103 46_49RueDuRhone.indd 48

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9776

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(9776)

T:8.375”

Chronos 2013 Issue 103

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Movado’s modern classics

The Movado SE Pilot Chronograph 50

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Signature style meets progressive design in the new series of Movado timepieces

by Carol Besler

W

hile many watch companies today emphasize their heritage through traditional design codes, Movado stands apart as a brand that is all about modernism. In 1947, when American artist Nathan George Horwitt designed the now famous Museum dial with the signature dot at 12 o’clock, it established a distinctive, modernist design code to which the brand has adhered ever since.

Movado also stands apart in its use of new materials in innovative ways. “Movado means ‘Always in Motion.’ We look at the design process in a holistic way, informed by innovative materials,” says Leach. “We are constantly evolving the way we use our core design elements.” The Movado Vizio, for example, features a skeleton case design with a framework made of black Peek®, a tough, innovative new resin material reinforced with carbon fiber. An inner case is made of a polished black

“The Museum Dial design is rooted in the foundational beliefs of modernism,” says Mary Leach, chief marketing officer of the Movado Group. “This continues to drive the inspiration of new designs.”

The 2013 lineup of new watches includes the Movado SE Pilot Chronograph, which combines the brand’s signature refined modernist look with up-to-the-minute functions.

The chronograph functions are incorporated into a case and dial that are designed with a graphic, ultra-modern look and feel. The narrow bezel and new wide dial opening create an impression of modern refinement. Encircled by a black minute reflector ring with gray printing, the black galvanic dial has a brushed sunray center zone with sandblasted outer ring detailed by silver-toned markers and angular Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. A flat, silver sunray Movado dot appears at 12 o’clock, and is repeated on the bracelet links. It contains a Swiss quartz movement.

The Movado LX in stainless steel with a silver sunray and white mother-of-pearl dial

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The Cerena, in black ceramic and black PVD-finished stainless steel

The Movado Series 800 worldtimer in black PVD steel

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The Red Label Calendomatic, with a mechanical self-winding movement

PVD-finished stainless steel cylinder, which is visible from the side through the Peek skeleton structure. A study in modern balance and contrast, the black carbon fiber dish dial features a polished outer ring detailed by a flat silver-toned signature dot at 12 o’clock.

Two more striking new models have been introduced this year: the Series 800 worldtimer in black PVD steel and a perforated black rubber strap, and the Red Label Calendomatic, with a mechanical self-winding movement that drives 24-hour Universal Time indicators.

The subtle red lettering on the dial of the Calendomatic was inspired by a 1946 model.

The Movado Vizio, with a skeleton case framework made of black Peek®

New for the ladies this year is the Cerena, in black ceramic and black PVD-finished stainless steel, with a date window at 6 o’clock to balance the signature dot at 12 o’clock. In direct contrast is the Movado LX in stainless steel with a silver sunray and white motherof-pearl dial with a silver-toned dot. Both new ladies’ watches epitomize the Movado signature look as well as the progressive design and engineering that define the brand today.

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Vintage refinement

D

ubey & Schaldenbrand has become a curator of outstanding vintage movements, refurbishing them for modern use. The Grand D么me R92 column wheel chronograph movement was acquired in the 1970s by Dubey & Schaldenbrand, at the dawn of the quartz revolution, from the company that became ETA (previously called Raymond and then Valjoux). The movement has a number of unusual characteristics: it features a traditional method of synchronizing the chronograph components, incorporating a unique swivel pinion design that was created by Edouard Heuer in 1886.

The movement was skeletonized and decorated in a micro-billage finish by Dubey & Schaldenbrand.

The hands and screws are blued steel, providing

strength and contrast to the silver toned movement and satin finished components. The hour and minute hands are designed in an antique gothic look, with pear shaped tips. The dial is hand-engraved in a vintage finish.

The case is stainless steel, crafted in an tonneau shape, with a domed sapphire crystal. The R92 is limited to 16 pieces. It is water resistant to 50 meters.

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WATCHES & FINE TIMEPIECES AUCTION NOvEMbEr 22, 2013 | NEW YOrk | LIvE & ONLINE

For Additional Information Please Contact Jim Wolf • 214.409.1659 Jwolf@Ha.com

November’s Auction Will Feature 500+ Fine Collectible Watches Including 200 Rolex Watches from The Collection of a Distinguished Gentleman Online bidding Begins October 23, 2013 | HA.com/5156

Piaget Protocole Exceptional 18k White Gold Diamond & Sapphire Wristwatch Estimate: $50,000 - $60,000

Tiffany & Co. Movement Attributed to Louis Audemars Rare & Important Minute Repeating Tandem Wind Pocket Watch With Rattrapante Chronograph & Quarter Second Jump, circa 1873 Estimate: $30,000 - $40,000

Rolex Rare Ref. 6240 Steel Cosmograph Daytona, circa 1960’s Estimate: $15,000 - $20,000

Patek Philippe & Co. Very Fine Ref. 2510 Gent’s Gold Wristwatch, circa 1953 Estimate: $3,000 - $4,000

Vacheron Constantin Ref. 47300 Fine White Gold “Les Historiques - Toledo” Triple Date Automatic With Moon Phase Estimate: $15,000 - $20,000

For a free auction catalog in any category, plus a copy of The Collector’s Handbook (combined value $65), visit HA.com/CHRO29230 or call 866-835-3243 and reference code CHRO29230.

Annual Sales Exceed $800 Million ❘ 800,000+ Online Bidder-Members 3500 Maple Ave. ❘ Dallas, TX 75219 ❘ 877-HERITAGE (437-4824) ❘ HA.com DALLAS ❘ NEW YORK ❘ BEVERLY HILLS ❘ SAN FRANCISCO ❘ HOUSTON ❘ PARIS ❘ GENEVA TX & NY Auctioneer license: Samuel Foose 11727 & 0952360. Heritage Auction Galleries CA Bond #RSB2004175; CA Auctioneer Bond: Carolyn Mani #RSB2005661. HERITAGE Reg. U.S. Pat & TM Off. Buyer’s Premium 12% - 25%. See HA.com for details.

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Ischia Island

by Giovanni Mattera-Vairo

The harbor of Sant’Angelo

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A volcanic island known for its many natural hot springs and the thermal spas that have sprung up around them, Ischia has long been a destination for continental tourists, and now its appeal is quickly spreading through the rest of the world.

Fireworks at the “Scogli of Sant’Anna” in Ischia Ponte in honor of the patriarch saint of the island of Ischia “Sant’Anna” on July 26th every year

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ot many people could point out the island of Ischia on a map, let alone the Tyrrhenian Sea, but for those who know its rocky beaches, evergreen groves, and dramatic Mediterranean sunsets the word is almost a spell, transporting the mind to the Italian island just nineteen miles from Naples. A volcanic island known for its many natural hot springs and the thermal spas that have sprung up around them, Ischia has long been a destination for continental tourists, and now its appeal is quickly spreading through the rest of the world. Welcoming over six million visitors a year wishing to experience island bliss and the healing properties of the natural volcanic water, Ischia still manages to maintain its quaintness and unique island nature. Writers such as Truman Capote, W.H. Auden, and Henrik Ibsen have all spent very fruitful time on the island, inspired by its dramatic vistas and local color.

Living in New York City for the past 25 years I came to realize how much I enjoy going back and seeing my family, friends and the wonders of this island which remain for many Americans a kept secret. Besides the beautiful beaches and wonderful sceneries the food is fantastic. I am a cook at heart and I enjoy the fresh and special ingredients that are commonly used in the typical “ischiatano” recipes’.

Castello Aragonese in Ischia Ponte

The coastline of Casamicciola Terme Fall/Winter 2013

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The main harbor of the island in Ischia Porto

The thermal waters are also quite unique and known since ancient roman times, and are normally used to cure arthritis; the mud baths and saunas are healing to the body, mind and soul.

A day at the beach or a boat ride around the island is something that I

would highly recommend. The waters are of a deep turquoise to green/blue and are completely immaculate. It is impossible to resist the urge to jump in. At night a stroll down Via Roma, which is the main road of Ischia Porto, to indulge in a gelato is a priceless treat. Wander around in the

Toto’ and Pulcinella characters of the Napolitano area in Via Marina – Casamicciola Terme

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beautiful little town of Sant’Angelo where only pedestrians are allowed and shop in the beautiful small boutiques.

If you’re looking to unwind and heal your body and spirit, we can recommend no finer place than the beautiful island of Ischia.

My daughter Josefina at her grandparents birthday party in Fiaiano Barano, Ischia

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The precision of a Swiss watch, neatly packaged in an airline.

In Switzerland, commitment to high quality comes standard. So it goes with us. The combination of personal service, award-winning cuisine, and fully ďƒ&#x;at beds allow you to arrive relaxed. Last but not least because we arrive on time. Precisely on time.

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Petal Power

Piaget shares its passion for the incomparable rose

by Carol Besler The flower is perhaps the most widely used motif in the world of jewelry design, but few designers or brands can claim a flower named in their honor. Yves Piaget, scion of the Piaget watch and jewelry company, has been so honored for his lifelong passion for roses, a passion that is reflected in the brand’s Rose jewelry collection.

"T

he rose is the most universal flower,” he says. “For me, it brings to mind childhood, and my first love for the wild roses called Sweet Briars. I have always been in love with roses, fascinated by the work done by breeders, whose imagination is matched by their absolute discipline. They seek only beauty and performance.” His penchant for roses was strengthened in 1976 when be became a member of the jury for the Concours International de Roses Nouvelles de Genève (Geneva International

Competition of New Roses), where he annually awards the winner with a gold rose crafted in the Piaget workshops. In 1982, the winning rose, created by the famous horticulture company, Meilland, was christened the “Yves Piaget Rose.” It was a peony rose with 80 petals, of which Yves Piaget says, “I love the graded shades from pink to mauve, I love its exceptional perfume. It’s a true delight.”

In 2012, Piaget officially honored the brand’s connection to this beautiful flower with the Rose collection, celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Yves Piaget rose. This year, 15 new models introduce color into the gold and diamond collection, with pink tourmalines, amethyst and pink opals set in necklaces with pearshaped diamonds and earrings with mobile stones.

Piaget’s jewelry craftsmen have developed a technique to give volume and life to the rose. The petals are cut from a gold plate and

Timepieces from the Piaget Rose collection

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Melody Gardot, a Piaget ambassador, recently recorded “La Vie en Rose� in honor of the new collection

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Supermodel Bar Refaeli models a cuff and earrings from the Piaget Rose collection

Ring from the Piaget Rose collection in 18k white gold with diamonds, rubellite, amethyst and pink opal

then individually formed by pliage, a method of folding. To enable each diamond to be magnified by light, the jeweler pierces the metal on the back of each petal at the exact spot where the gems are positioned, using the “honeycomb” technique. This method brings additional sparkle to the setting. He then sets the final touch by making a delicate engraving on the perimeter of the petals in order to accentuate their curves. Each piece is mounted from the inside, from the top to the bottom of the flower. Many of the pieces are elaborate, but much of the collection is also quite accessible, with an opening price point of $1,900.

Indy actress Brit Marling recently wore some pieces from the collection on the red carpet at the premier of her new film “The East” of which she is the co-writer and the star. Marling, who has made a name for herself in the world of independent film, was the first to wear the Rose pendant from the new Piaget Rose collection, in 18k gold with 36 diamonds. Piaget, which has a longstanding commitment to independent film and the arts, has been a principle sponsor of the Film Independent Spirit Awards for many years, and feels that Marling embodies the youthful spirit of the Rose collection.

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Ring from the Piaget Rose collection in 18k rose gold and a center diamond

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Earrings from the Piaget Rose collection in 18k with diamonds

Ring from the Piaget Rose collection in 18k white gold with diamonds

American singer Melody Gardot serves as an official ambassador for the collection, commemorating it with her recording of “La Vie en Rose.” Gardot performed the song as part of a private concert for 350 guests this past June at the first Piaget Rose Day, which took place in the Orangerie of the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris. A guard of honor composed of gardeners guided invitees towards a greenhouse where a gorgeous wall of Piaget Roses awaited them. Bar Refaeli, who models the collection, was among the celebrities in attendance.

Piaget’s involvement in the world of roses does not end there. In tribute to the Empress Josephine, who also devoted her life to the flower, Piaget became involved in the renovation project for the historical rose garden of the Château de Malmaison last year to restore the grounds to their former splendor. A keen rose lover, Josephine had succeeded during her lifetime in putting together a collection of 250 varieties. Unfortunately, this botanical treasure was damaged over the years and very little remains of the former rose garden. The Malmaison museum, with Piaget’s support, is set to give it a new lease on life by planting 750 old rose bushes in order to revive the work of Josephine, after whom an admirable rose was named in 1814, the year she died. Next year, Piaget will celebrate the inauguration of the revived rose garden, as well as the bicentenary of Josephine’s death.

Piaget also sponsored the first Monaco International Rose Show last year, organized by the Monaco Garden Club, and teamed up for the first time with the prestigious Concours International de Roses Nouvelles (International Competition for New Roses) held in the Bagatelle Rose Garden in Paris. On the occasion of these events, Piaget created a trophy reflecting the design codes of the Piaget Rose collection, crafted in pink gold and featuring delicately rounded, curved petals, the trophy is set with a diamond pistil.

“In 1982, when the rose peony was christened the Yves Piaget Rose, it was an extremely emotional moment for me,” says Yves Piaget, who now shares his legacy through a jewelry collection that rivals the real rose in its beauty.

Yves Piaget and his namesake roses

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TWO FOR THE PRICE OF ONE If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces. As a bonus for our CHRONOS readers we are including a subscription to ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL, A Lifestyle Magazine featuring artistic achievement and design, past and present in the world of jewelry, art, design, travel, gardens and beauty wherever it is found.

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63rd Annual

Pebble Beach

Concours d’Elegance

The 1934 Packard 1108 Twelve Dietrich Convertible Victoria owned by Margie and Judge Joseph Cassini from West Orange, N.J

Article and Photography by: Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor

A

chieving a Best of Show win at this event is almost like wishing for and then winning a lottery. It is that great a deal.

It is overwhelming to most and to this year’s overall winner, it was extremely emotional. Judge Joseph Cassini and his lovely wife Margie and daughter Caroline were just ecstatic when they learned of their win. It is his

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second win at Pebble but the first in a number of years for an American car. His stunning, dark green, 1934 Packard 1108 Twelve Dietrich Convertible Victoria was a wonderful sight for all eyes. Winning for the second time in nine years Cassini said upon winning, “That makes this win even more special. It’s nice to see that even the European judges found this car significant enough to

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win Best of Show.” “This win is emotional, says Judge Cassini, “This is the Olympics of car shows, and you would never think that you could win the Olympics twice.” But you need to realize that this win was even more special when you consider the stiff competition that was his runner ups: A 1932 Lincoln KB Murphy Roadster and a 1934 Hispano-Suiza J12 Vanvooren Coupe, both exquisite automobiles. The prerequisite for taking top honors means that the Judge Cassini’s car had to win its class before it could be considered for Best of Show. So the competition was very steep.

His was only part of the entire story this year.

Featured marques included the great Simplex automobile, Lincoln, the roadsters from Indy, a celebration of 50 years of Lamborghini, 50 years of the Porsche 911,

A few of the Indy Roadsters on display and those paying them attention

Vanvooren, the Parisian coach builder, Aston Martin, and the French motorcycles and of course the legendary Alfa Romeos. A special class was added this year for this show only: the four early Benz race cars of Prinz Heinrich. What this show has become is a showcase of the finest, rarest motor vehicles in existence. Show chairwoman, Sandra Button and her husband, Martin were able to cajole the owners of a group of priceless Alfa Romeo 8c cars from the early 1930’s to show their beauty at Pebble this year along with a special tour called The Tour of the Rockies, they would take a few days

after the event concludes. Interestingly enough, most of the 8c owners had planned on attending the Concours before the tour was announced.

The fact that Sandra was able to invite the owners of the oldest known Duesenberg, a 1921 A Bender Coupe, to the show along with so many other outstanding car owners is what makes Pebble what it is today. Keep in mind that the Pebble Beach Concours, like all other great Concours, is a show by invitation only, with lots of rules that govern it and make it the most difficult car show to be invited to and participate in. You need some history or at least the car must have some serious provenance to be invited here. 248 cars from 36 states and 12 countries graced the 18th fairway of the famous Pebble Beach golf course this year and not one was less than perfect.

A pure sight of 100% eye candy in the form of the art of the automobile.

This is one of many reasons why Pebble Beach Concours has withstood the test of 63 years and continues to lead the world as the highest form of any car show in existence.

The show capped a week long celebration of the automobile. Rolex is the prime title sponsor for this show as well as the Quail and the racing at Laguna Seca. The leading watch maker devotes countless hours to so many events outside of just watches.

Their participation and work for all events during this week is crucial and very satisfying for their brand image as well as their general reception by the public. This week would just not be the same without the name Rolex involved to the degree it is and we are all so thankful for all Rolex does to make this week the most special in the car world each and every year.

The cars began rolling onto the field before the sun was even close to rising and the steady stream of vehicles paraded from one end of the field to the other were directed by a slew of volunteers to their predestined places in their classes.

I want to tip my hat, if I may please for a moment, Fall/Winter 2013

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The 1908 Benz 105 HP Prinz Heinrich Two Seat Race car that took the pre-war Open Wheel Racing Class 1st place winner

Taking second place in the Antique Car Class and winner of the prestigious Charles A. Chayne Trophy are Emily and Sam Mann, from Englewood, N.J., 1914 American Underslung 642 Roadster

to the lady responsible for all the media that attend this event. Year in and year out Kandace Hawkins leads us from inception to ending, with little praise for all she does. Her hands are so full that she has a full staff working behind the scenes to enable us to get the best coverage from the time the credential doors open until the very end when many of us are able to photograph the Best of Show down by the water’s edge. She hardly gets noticed, but she runs the game and makes things happen for all of us. As only one member of the media clan, it is time someone made her name public with all the thanks for all she does for all of us. It could not happen without Kandace. “Thank you so much”.

Another unique feature of this show is the view into the future provided by the concept cars that grace the practice putting green several hundred feet above the actual 18th fairway. There we got a glimpse this year into the possibility and realities of the Acura NSX, the one off Aston Martin CC 100 Speedster (celebrating their 100 year), Bentley Continental GT LeMans Edition, the BMW Gran Lusso Coupe created by legendary house of Pininfarina, the Hyundai concept HCD-14 Genesis, the Icono Vulcano a one off, the Epitome Concept by Laraki Design of California, the newest Spyker edition and even the Alfa Romeo Touring Superleggera Disco Volante. Several other makes were well featured including Lincoln, Porsche and Rolls Royce. The ropes surrounding the practice green were bulging as everyone leaned in as far as possible to get a view and a snapshot of many of these concepts.

The early pre-dawn arrival of this 1933 Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Touring Spider waiting to be directed into his appointed show position on the field

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At the 63rd Annual Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, several auction houses work their gavels turning cars over from one owner to another with the exchanging of huge sums of money. Speaking of which, this week is not one for those who have short pockets. No sir. There are plenty of folks who love to just watch the auctions but in some cases it will cost them $100 just to get in, obtain an auction catalogue and then ogle. The general admission ticket to Pebble this year was up to $225 pre-sale and $275 the day of show. I can attest to the fact that the field was filled with spectators by 9 am. The show raised some $1,277,007 for charity alone!

Being on the field by 6:00 am the number of media and others already there was staggering this year.

Haggerty offered their customary hospitality tent with coffee and donuts for all and free hats for those wishing them.

Then of course, there is the huge building that celebrates the incredible work of so many talented artists in numerous mediums as part of the Automotive Fine Arts Society.

A walk through is mandatory – not something you want to miss. The amazing imagination utilized by one artist after another can be seen in the depictions of our automobiles.

All are for sale as well. And all are remarkably creative and beautifully finished in metal, wood, oils, water colors and other art forms.

The 1912 Rolls Royce Silver Ghost Rothchild el Fils Style Limousine of Charlotte and David Morrison of Long Beach, California

The 1930 Cadillac 452 Fleetwood Coupe of Randy Langer from Kansas City, Missouri

One often wonders how these cars and bikes are judged.

Interestingly enough, the program states that there is a total of 1,955 years of experience in the makeup of the judges here. With well over 50 judges their task is tremendous.

First they look for originality Winning Best in BMW Class was this stunning1958 BMW 507 Series II Roadster belonging to Diana and Charles Haagen of Malibu, California

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Sitting all alone, along the water’s edge, as the sun breaks through the early morning fog is this 1955 Maserati A6GCS of Jonathan Feiber and Heather Buhr from Atherton, California

Taking Best in Class in the Mercedes Benz Class 1, was this outrageous 1936 540K shown by Autosport Designs of Huntington Station, NY

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63rd Annual

Pebble Beach

Concours d’Elegance

and authenticity. Then the vehicles are looked at with an eye for elegance. Each car must start, and the owners must answer to any and all questions during the inspection and judging of each vehicle.

Documentation is vital as well as provenance of the car itself. Some of these cars are one-of-a-kind, some are in a group consisting of only a handful left in existence, while others are cars that belonged to royalty from many parts of the world. The history of many of them could fill a book in themselves. The job of all these judges is quite daunting, and therefore for those that are the chosen few out of the thousands of experts the world over, this is a high and most honored privilege.

Yes Pebble Beach is just that – the greatest car show on earth and maybe even beyond as well, who knows. It is one of those events that is something everyone should experience if they are able to. Better come with comfortable shoes and an open mind, and be able to take it all in in one day. A lot to accomplish for sure.

The instrumentation aboard the 1914 American Underslung belonging to Emily and Sam Mann of Englewood, NJ

Pink Floyd drummer, car collector and vintage racer, Nick Mason in his 1935 Aston Martin Ulster Race Car who took the Road and Track Trophy home to England with him

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Museum Watch

Museum Watch

Pierre Auguste Renoir, Claude Monet Painting in His Garden at Argenteuil, 1873. oil on canvas; 18 3/8 x 23 1/2 in. Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art; Bequest of Anne Parrish Titzell

PASSPORT TO PARIS

Denver Art Museum through February 9, 2014

This high profile show brings together works by French masters, including Degas, Pissarro, Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Renoir, and Monet, a rare opportunity to see all of these artists' paintings together. The exhibition will be split into three subcategories, Court to Cafe, Nature as Muse, and Drawing Room, while maintaining an overall focus on French art from the late 1600s to early 1900s and exploring changes in art and society during these three important centuries in art history.

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WALKER EVANS: AMERICAN PHOTOGRAPHS Museum of Modern Art, New York through January 26, 2014

Celebrating the 75th anniversary of MoMA first photography exhibition — a solo show of Evans' works — this collection of 60 prints displays the photographer's collective portrait of the Eastern United States from images of individuals to cultural artifacts.

VASILY KANDINSKY: FROM BLAUE REITER TO THE BAUHAUS, 1910-1925 Neue Galerie, New York through February 10, 2014

Exploring the development of Kandinsky's art from his Blaue Reiter period to the abstraction of his Bauhaus years, this exhibition also includes many works by the artist's peers.

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Table clock, 1968. Gold and platinum with lapis lazuli, rubies, and diamonds. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv.

432 V10. © Antonio Barrella Studio Orizzonte Roma

THE ART OF BULGARI: LA DOLCE VITA AND BEYOND, 1950-1990 de Young Museum, San Francisco through February 17, 2014

Focusing on the firm's jewelry pieces from the decades following World War II, including several from the Elizabeth Taylor collection, this exhibition highlights the unique influence of Greco-Roman classicism, Italian Renaissance style, and Roman school goldsmithing.

CHARLES MARVILLE: PHOTOGRAPHER OF PARIS

National Gallery of Art, Washington D.C. through January 5, 2014 Charles Marville, Flèche de Notre Dame, Viollet-le-Duc, Ar (Spire of Notre Dame, Viollet-le-Duc, Ar[chitect]), 1859-1860, albumen print from collodion negative, image: 19 1/2 x 14 3/8 in. The AIA/ AAF Collection, Prints and Photographs Division, Library of Congress, Washington D.C.

Taking up photography in the early years of the medium, Marville's poetic urban views, detailed architectural studies, and picturesque landscapes offer a window in mid-19th Century Europe, especially Paris before the demolitions of Baron Haussmann.

HOLLYWOOD COSTUME

Virginia Museum of Fine Arts through February 17, 2014 Assembled from private and archival collections in California, this show of rarely displayed costumes explores in detail how the design and use of wardrobe were central to character creation in the movies.

LÉGER: MODERN ART AND THE METROPOLIS

Philadelphia Museum of Art through January 5, 2014 The exhibition attempts to bring renewed focus to the experimental art of Paris in the 1920s, when Leger played a significant role in redefining painting in the context of the urban environment and mass media.

Also included are several works Leger's contemporaries.

Fernand Léger, The City, 1919, oil on canvas, 7 ft 7 in x 9 ft, 9.5 in, A. E. Gallatin Collection, 1952

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Art from an Age of Transformation

Charles Sheeler, American Landscape, 1930, oil on canvas, 24 x 31 in, Gift of Abby Aldrich Rockefeller

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“AmericanModern” Modern”atatthe the “American MuseumofofModern ModernArt Art Museum

O

ver the first half of the twentieth century, the United States transformed from a largely rural, regional power to an urbanized, interconnected superpower. These were the decades of the Great Depression and two world wars. As technological advances altered the size and the character of the nation’s industrial base, the country’s cities swelled, with wide-ranging societal effects.

This transformation also led to cultural changes, which are considered in a current exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art. Entitled “American Modern: Hopper to O’Keefe,” this collection of works from 1915 to 1950 take a fresh look at the museum’s holdings and illustrate the preoccupations of that era’s rapidly changing society.

Including paintings, drawings, prints, photographs, and sculptures by more than 50 artists, among them several of the museum’s masterworks, this ensemble provides greater contextualization of the individual artworks and a more thorough understanding of the age. The radical shifts in America are expressed in a variety of visual styles, artistic movements, and personal versions. While the artists featured in this show celebrated and questioned the shifts in the American landscapes, they too probed whether the young nation had its own unique national identity.

The exhibition also emphasizes the important of the Museum of Modern Art in this era. In 1930, the Museum acquired Edward Hopper’s House by the Railroad as the first painting for its collection.

Painted only five years earlier, this work

by Hopper contrasts a Victorian house with railroad tracks, signaling the rapid modernization affecting the older, rural traditions of the country.

Hopper, along with Charles Burchfield, Stuart David, Georgia O’Keeffe, and Charles Sheeler, are presented in depth. All these artists had major solo exhibitions at MoMA during the museum’s first twenty years and its collection contains many examples of their work. These well-known artists are featured alongside lesser-seen but nevertheless revelatory compositions that

provide a more complete overall picture.

The selection of more than 100 works is organized thematically, depicting such subjects as urban and rural landscapes, scenes of industry, still-life compositions, and portraiture.

Echoing House by the Railroad, Charles Sheeler’s American Landscape (1930), which depicts the Ford Motor Company’s River Rouge plant near Dearborn, Michigan, seems to celebrate newfound industrial efficiency but also remains ambivalent about its effects — missing are the thousands of people who made the factory run, and any sense of noise, dirt, or actual labor or hardship.

The city is also a frequent subject of works in American Modern, as evidenced in Walker Evans’s untitled photographs of urban architecture (c. 1928–29) and George Ault’s New Moon, New York from 1945. Both capture the strong lines of bridges and skyscrapers in an almost abstract language, omitting the crush of people who flocked to the cities during these decades. John Marin’s images of New York, meanwhile, present frenetic, celebratory compositions in which buildings and bridges themselves seem to be the source of the intense activity of the city.

Scenes of the American countryside also focus primarily on the land and structures, emphasizing shape and line.

Sheeler’s photograph White Barn, Bucks County, Pennsylvania is shot so near to the barn wall that it conveys no sense of the overall structure, while the barn in Bucks County Barn sits squarely in the center of the painting, dominating the composition.

Ralph Steiner’s American Rural Baroque, with its empty rocking chair on a porch, suggests a simpler life and time. Charles Burchfield’s watercolors of 1916–18 capture a wild American landscape untamed by human intervention—the looming black forms of houses and a farm silo in Rogues’ Gallery are matched by a frieze of wilting sunflowers; the flowers singled out in The First Hepaticas are lost among the splintering tree trunks of a threatening forest. Georgia O’Keeffe’s stunning watercolor Evening Star, No. III, from 1917, also evokes the wide open

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John Marin, Lower Manhattan (Composing Derived from Top of Woolworth), 1922, gouache and charcoal with paper cut out attached with thread on paper, 21 5/8 x 26 7/8 in.

Acquired through the Lillie P. Bliss Bequest. © 2013 Estate of John Marin / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

Florine Stettheimer,.

Family Portrait, II. 1933. oil on canvas in artist’s frame.

46 1/4 x 64 5/8 in Gift of Miss Ettie Stettheimer. © Estate: Florine Stettheimer

Georgia O’Keeffe, Evening Star, No. III, 1917 watercolor on paper mounted on board, 8 7/8 x 11 7/8 in Mr. and Mrs. Donald B. Straus Fund © 2013 The Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York Edward Hopper, House by the Railroad, 1925, oil on canvas, 24 x 29 in Digital Image © The Museum of Modern Art, New York, Digital Imaging Studio

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spaces of the American landscape, with bands of color expanding across the page.

American Modern also includes key images of the people of this time. Florine Stettheimer’s whimsical family portrait in an artist-designed frame captures a high-society elegance, and Elie Nadelman’s Woman at the Piano suggests a soundtrack for the upbeat parties of the era, while George Bellows’s prints of boxing

matches suggest the noise and liveliness of these major sporting events.

In contrast, a stillness pervades Ben Shahn’s image of a New York handball game, as well as Alfred Stieglitz’s portraits of artists affiliated with his galleries, such as John Marin, Charles Demuth, and others. The still-life images and arrangements of objects in the exhibition include Edward Weston’s sensuous photograph

of a pepper and Charles Demuth’s Eggplant and Tomatoes. Stuart Davis’s Lucky Strike and Odol, which feature abstracted images of mundane items, echo the tremendous presence of advertising imagery and commercial culture in the lives of modern Americans.

With this exhibition, MoMA presents art that captured the shifting landscape of America both literally and figuratively.

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Porsche Type 356 Speedster 1600 Super, 1958, Collection of Chad McQueen, Photograph Š 2013 Peter Harholdt

Porsche by Design :

Seducing Speed

by Stuart Leuthner

O

n October 12, the North Carolina Museum of Art (NCMA), located in Raleigh, opened a show titled, Porsche by Design: Seducing Speed. Exhibitions of exceptional automobiles have become extremely popular with art museums, but NCMA's show is not only the museum's first design show, it is the first museum show in the United

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States to feature a selection of automobiles manufactured by one company.

"At the NCMA", explains Lawrence J. Wheeler, NCMA's director, "we are continually looking for ways to engage our audience with exhibitions and installations that help interpret the world around us through the lens of art and design. Porsche by Design traces the evolution of these

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Porsche Type 804 Formula One, 1962, The Porsche Collection of Ranson W. Webster, Photograph © 2013 Peter Harholdt

Porsche Type 911 GT3 R Hybrid Race Car Prototype, 2010, Courtesy of the Porsche Museum, Photograph © 2013 Porsche Museum

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magnificent automobiles, but by virtue of putting them in a museum setting, we are challenged to see them in a different way: as objects of beauty that transcend their use for transportation."

Twenty-two of the German-made machines are on display, carefully selected by guest curator Ken Gross and managing curator, Barbara Wiedemann. A respected automotive

journalist, Gross is the former director of the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles. "Porsche by Design brings together one of the most significant collections of Porsche automobiles ever assembled," Gross says. "More than 'just a show about cars,' the exhibition emphasizes the innate beauty of aerodynamic design, inseparably linked with engineering genius."

Porsche by Design

Porsche Type 356 Gmünd Coupe, 1949, Courtesy of the Ingram Collection, Photograph © 2013 Michael Furman

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Porsche Type 64 Berlin-Rom Racer, 1938, Collection of the Automuseum Prototype, Hamburg, Germany, Photograph © 2013 Photographers Hamburg

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Seducing Speed

Porsche Type 917K, 1971, The Revs Institute for Automotive Research, Photograph Š 2013 Peter Harholdt

Included among the automobiles on display: a 1938/39 Type 64 Berlin-Rom designed by the company's founder, Ferdinand Porsche. This unique car is the wellspring from which the Porsche legend was born. A handcrafted 1949 aluminum-bodied Gmund coupe, designed by Porsche's son, "Ferry" is one of fifty constructed at Porsche's first factory, a converted sawmill in Gmund, a small town near Stuttgart.

Steve McQueen loved to go fast and his 1958 Type 356A Speedster is the first car the "movie star motorhead" bought new. The car was loaned to the museum by McQueen's son, Chad. On loan from the Joplin family and the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, Cleveland, Janice Joplin's 1965 Type 356C Cabriolet with its famous psychedelic paint job reflects the singer's ebullient style.

Competition cars include a rare Type 804 Formula One race car. One of only four built. Dan Gurney drove the car to victory at the 1962 French Grand Prix. A 1971

Type 917K was raced by the famous Martini Racing Team.

Powered by a flat-twelve engine, the Type 917 is one of the most iconic race cars of all time. Featuring a revolutionary F1 kinetic energy recovery system (KERS), a 2010 Type 911 GT3 R Hybrid race car is powered by two electric motors and a flat-six engine.

The organizers of the exhibition believe Porsche by Design: Seducing Speed, will appeal to two groups. Car lovers will appreciate the automobile's rarity and engineering genius.

Art lovers will be intrigued by Porsche design and the connections that can be drawn with other works of art. All will gain a deep appreciation for hallmarks of the Porsche Marque: beauty, artistry, technology and innovation.

Porsche by Design: Seducing Speed will be open until January 20, 2014. If you would like more information, please call the North Carolina Art Museum at 919-715-5923 or visit their web site at www.ncartmuseum.org/porsche Fall/Winter 2013

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Th e Ro l ex M o ntere y M ot o r s po r ts R eun ion Article and Photography by Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor

T

here are very few places in America that rival the and retailers that line vendor alley in the midfield. This year beauty of the Monterey Peninsula in Northern the track helped to celebrate 60 years of the wonderful California. And Rolex has chosen this area to Corvette, America’s only true sports car. Along with a huge showcase several events that take place each year during the crowd, the enormous entry list of race cars included over middle of August. Right now I want to tell you about the 530 cars. The list seems to grow each year although the track Monterey Motorsports Reunion. says they constantly are cutting back because there just isn’t This event seems to be the largest gathering of vintage race enough room in the paddock for all those wanting to attend. cars in America and it happens but once a year at the famous The owners are from all over the world and their cars are from Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca. The track is an 11 turn, 2.238 as early as 1911 right up to the modern machines of the mid mile circuit, made up of 1 esse curve, 4 right and 6 left hand 1980’s - everything from a Ford to a Ferrari. turns and considered by most everyone to be one of the top five A new addition to the daily activities came on Thursday race tracks in the United States. Founded back in November with many of the Pebble Beach Concours cars taking a few of 1957, it has hosted all laps at slow speed around types of race cars from the circuit showing off their Indy cars to sports cars, beauty and giving the crowd to motorcycles to goa small preview of what carts to Trans Am to F they might see on Sunday 5000 open wheeled cars at the Concours. It turned to vintage racing. The out to be a very impressive track is located high couple of laps for most of on a mountain in the us. Not often do we get Laguna Seca recreational to see a Duesenberg or a park in Monterey. The prized prewar Mercedes or circuit itself climbs early Packard take a lap on even higher with lots of any race course, no less this elevation changes. The one. It was an eye opener for most severe of which is many who would not get a drop off turn that is the chance to see these cars world famous – known anywhere else.

1913 Mercer Raceabout of George Wingate sits next to John Kent’s 1917 ford as The Corkscrew. It The In the paddock sat row Model T in the paddock. Note the antique pickup truck and the touring car in the drops some 59 feet, the background. Typical of what you see here upon row of the entrants’ equivalent of a 5 ½ story cars along with other cars drop, in only 450 feet of track space. It has been known to that did not run but were parked next to race cars. All were cause many a driver to lose his stomach as he heads down this part of the enormous gathering of great race cars. A special fast left hand turn which immediately becomes a right hander exhibit celebrating the 60 years of Corvette was set up with before it straightens out and heads for the next left hander. examples of many older Vettes as well as a selection of those Ask any driver and they will tell you that they absolutely love that have raced and are still racing. A celebration of the 50 to race here; it is that much fun and that much of a challenge. years of Porsche 911 was also held. One of the featured races A huge representation of cars indicative of a wide range of was for these Porsche 911s. Rolex, the title sponsor, had their lifestyles, is apparent during this week. All can be viewed from drivers’ club tent with many Rolex sponsored sporting event the title sponsor Rolex right down to the individual exhibitors photos displayed, but the emphasis was on race cars of course.

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The annual group shot of the featured marque. This year it was celebrating the 60 years of Chevrolet’s Corvette

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A popular area within this tent was a coffee corner where lovely ladies dispensed any kind of coffee you wished from a cappuccino to a decaf and everything in between. Several rows of long tables showcased a large selection of culinary delights for the drivers and their families. The regular eating area within the compound was filled with drivers and friends chowing down on the fine food Rolex offered. For those who were Rolex guests, the Red Bull hospitality room, overlooking the front straight, served an equally abundant amount of fine tastings and had a terrace for those wishing to watch the racing while dining.

Since the Corvette was the featured marque this year, there was an unusually large following of owners who brought their own cars. At one point I got caught in my golf cart waiting to cross the road as literally hundreds of Corvettes, one by one, streamed in front of me making their way to the track for their parade lap. There were so many cars that the parade lap looked more like a traffic jam on the Long Island Expressway or the California 401. I felt like I was at a railroad crossing watching one of those forever long freight trains passing by, just creeping through at very slow speeds. Someone said this was the largest gathering of Corvette owners at any race track ever. I don’t doubt it. One thing was for sure – this author has never seen so many gorgeously prepared privately owned Corvettes in one setting before.

The vendor alley was filled each day with shoppers and lookers both. The food stands were doing a brisk business offering everything from the norm to the semi strange and in between. And the crowd seemed very pleased with all the offerings from food to merchandise. This area was far from a bargain center though. Books, clothing, racing school sign ups, posters, tons and tons of miniature cars from very

David Duthu manhandling his 1949 Talbot Lago T26C DA Grand Prix car in which he won his group race (Group 2A: 1927-1951 Racing Cars)

inexpensive to over a thousand dollars were all selling. It looked as though everyone was having a wonderful time even if they were only window shopping.

And of course at noon time there was the annual “Picnic in the Park” where this year’s special guests were three time world Formula One Champion Sir Jackie Stewart, and sports car racer and now announcer Tommy Milner. They were peppered with questions and in turn related wonderful memories of their days racing. This segment was moderated by vintage racer Murray Smith. Crowds built around a makeshift stage and rows and rows of chairs were set up for the fans. Of course there is always standing room only once the seating is filled on a first come first served basis. The track accounted for almost 62,000 paid attendance, which was a 12% increase over last year. The track claims this event draws the second biggest crowd each year, the AMA motorcycle race being the biggest.

Vintage racing is very popular in this country as it is all over the world. This California venue has hosted vintage racers for over thirty years now and each year the crowds increase as do the participants. The selection of those who are invited is a

Greg Mitchell in his 1967 custom Shelby Can Am Cobra

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T he Ro lex Mo nt e r e y M o t o r sp o r t s R e un i on

Al Arciero in his ’58 Lister Knobbly leading a pack of 1955-’61 Sports racing cars under 2000cc through turn four

John McKenna in his 1974 Vals Parnelli Formula One VPJ4, leading the Lotus and a March F1 car down the Cork Screw turn

George Wingate, down shifting his 1913 Mercer as he approaches the next turn.

Jon Shirley in his 1934 Alfa Romeo Tipo B (P3) car heading down the Cork Screw

very hard task for the committee. There are so many cars out there and so many drivers who want to participate and yet there is only so much room in the paddocks. It is a fantastic time for everyone involved. Watching these wonderful cars roar around this wonderful track is something that needs to be seen to be appreciated, even if you are not a race fan. Once you hear these engines sing their songs and watch the drivers power their machines at speeds rivaling those of yesteryear you too will be a convert. And, if you are already a fan of racing then the Monterey Motorsports Reunion will make your heart skip a beat. It is one of those events that bring you back year after year. A word to those thinking of going next year: book your hotels now, as almost all are sold out by the start of January! Expect to have fun!

The 1934 MG NE of Pete Thelander at speed down the steep Cork Screw

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AM

D

N WATCH G UI ICA R L E

WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES

The American Watch Guild was founded as an unprecedented way to recognize those quality retailers, manufacturers and affiliated service companies whose standard of excellence has set them apart in the fine watch industry.

The Guild drew its inspiration from the tradition of the medieval guilds. Those associations of artisans and merchants, from goldsmiths to weavers, were formed to preserve the professionalism within their crafts and to assure buyers of quality by displaying the coveted symbol of their guild.

Today, more than ever, with over six billion dollars in counterfeit products on the market annually, membership in the Guild can separate true value from fictitious value.

Often, gold jewelry offered for sale does not reflect the Karat marking on the item, and diamonds all too often turn out to be merely zircons. Watch movements are frequently of inferior quality as well.

Membership in the American Watch Guild carries with it the commitment to the following criteria: – Authorized agents of the watch brand – Trained watch sales personnel – Factory authorized service for maintenance and repair of watches – Maintenance of a channel for ethical distribution that respects the integrity of the watch

For more information, please visit www.americanwatchguild.com

When you visit one of our Guild Stores, please ask for your complimentary copy of How To Buy A Watch and The Care and Service of Fine Watches.

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Summer/Fall 2013

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The Art of Swiss Watchmaking

SKELETON COLLECTION 17 Jewel Swiss Unitas MVT | Rose/Gray/Rhodium Movement Sapphire Crystal | Highly Decorated Front & Back | 165 Feet WR.

$1,375 MSRP

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watch collector Ralph Lauren RL 67 Safari Tourbillon The Ralph Lauren Safari timepiece collection reflects the outdoor adventure/lifestyle aesthetic of the brand. It has a gun-metal finish (the color of a Land Rover) on both case and bridge, and a screw-topped bezel. It is also classic in styling, in keeping with Ralph Lauren signature elements, including Roman numerals and a minimalist dial with classic railway track index. The movement was made by the highend Swiss boutique movement workshop La Fabrique du Temps. It is a micro-rotor powered self-winding tourbillon made exclusively for Ralph Lauren. The dial is only 44mm wide – many tourbillons are much bigger in order to showcase the carriage – a micro rotor keeps it small.

Ralph Lauren Watches 877-639-7934 www.ralphlaurenwatches.com

Bell & Ross Vintage BR 126 Falcon The Bell & Ross signature aesthetic is the pilot’s watch, with the technical prowess to match, but the Vintage Falcon pays particular tribute to the 50th anniversary of the Dassault MystèreFalcon. It is thus dedicated to the notion of luxury business travel. In the early 1960s, Dassault developed the small, twin-engine, 10-seat business jet, the Mystère 20. It made its maiden flight on the 4th of May 1963, and immediately became the commercial success known as the Falcon. Sand-colored hands and numerals reproduce the aged look of period watches. The Vintage Falcon has a chronograph function, date window and 100-meter water resistance.

Bell & Ross 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com

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watch collector Carl F. Bucherer Alacria RoyalRose The 18k gold case of the Alacria rose is set with 137 uniquely colored sapphires and 137 diamonds. The CFB 1850 Swiss quartz precision movement is at the heart of the Alacria RoyalRose. The central decorative element consists of relief-like floral elements that cover the entire dial, which are set with 89 sapphires and 26 diamonds of varying sizes. The flowers are set against a mother-of-pearl backdrop. The strap is made of goatskin. The signature form of the Alacria model includes sides shaped in convex curves to enhance the fit of this classic ladies’ watch.

Carl F. Bucherer 800-395-4306 www.carl-f-bucherer.com

Breguet Classique Reserve du Marche The Classique Reserve du Marche 5277, with caliber 533.3, has a new mainspring, developed in conjunction with Nivarox, made of a new stainless steel alloy that is non magnetic and does not contain Berylium or cobalt, which are bad for the environment. It works in conjunction with a thinner arbor that allows for a longer mainspring and more coils, resulting in a longer power reserve and more constant torque. This new system will eventually be applied to all Breguet and some other Swatch Group brand movements. The case and dial are 18k gold, with the dial engine-turned in a hobnail pattern.

Breguet Swatch Group USA 866-458-7488 www.breguet.com

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watch collector Ulysse Nardin Royal Ruby Tourbillon The bridge and mainplate of this ultra statement watch are made of synthetic ruby, which serves as a dramatic window through which to view part of the movement. The inner bezel is set with 12 rubies to mark the hours, accompanied by 48 diamonds. Another 69 diamonds are set into the outer bezel, and 92 diamonds illuminate the case for a total of 3.27 carats. The case is platinum. It contains an in-house manual-wound mechanical flying tourbillon movement, caliber UN-79. Ruby was believed by ancient cultures to protect warriors in battle, enable peace among enemies, and assure health, wealth, wisdom and success in love. The watch is a limited edition of 99 pieces.

Ulysse Nardin 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com

Franck Muller 10th anniversary Crazy Hours The Franck Muller Crazy Hours, with its random numeral arrangement, was first introduced in 2003. This innovative movement keeps time via a jumping hour mechanism that allows the hour hand to jump to one numeral after the other in the correct order, while the minute hand moves in the conventional manner. The anniversary edition will be limited to 75 pieces, in both rose gold and white gold, each with the number 10 set with diamonds. The watch contains the Franck Muller automatic caliber FM 2800 HF DT, with a platinum rotor and a C么tes de Gen猫ve engraved finish. The dial is sun-stamped lacquer. Each piece is numbered.

Franck Muller 212-255-8499 www.franckmuller.com

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watch collector Bulgari Bulgari Bi-color The Bulgari Bulgari is the brand’s classic, minimalist dress watch, with the subtle logo engraved on the bezel.

The newest model is presented in the modern bi-color combination of steel and 18k rose gold. The bezel, crown and bracelet links are 18k gold. The hour markers are 18k pink gold plated. It contains the Bulgari self-winding caliber BVL 191, with hours, minutes, seconds and instantaneous date. It has a 42-hour power reserve.

The movement is decorated, including beveled and polished bridge rims, circular satin-brushed wheels, burnished pivots, chamfered sinks and polished screw heads.

Bulgari 1-800-BULGARI www.bulgari.com

Hublot Masterpiece La Ferrari The Hublot Masterpiece MP-05 La Ferrari sets a world record for the longest power reserve for a hand-wound tourbillon – 50 days. The watch was designed to resemble the Ferrari car of the same name, and features a number of common design elements with the car: a sapphire crystal was cut to the shape of the Ferrari’s outline, as was the caseback, made of PVD titanium; Ferrari red is used for the trim; the exposed gears, cylinder counters and the row of barrels down the center exude a racing car aesthetic. The center spine consists of an unprecedented 11 series-coupled barrels, which is what enables the 7-week power reserve. All of these barrels are wound with a tool resembling a power drill that plugs in to the top of the watch.

The movement, HUB9005.H1.6, is powered by 637 individual components, a record for Hublot.

Hublot 800-536-0636 www.hublot.com

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As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers.

Please mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call.

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Dayton, OH 45459 Tel: 800-395-4306 Tel: 937-291-4366 www.carl-f-bucherer.com CHANEL 15 East 57th St. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-715-4100 www.chanel.com CITIZEN 1200 Wall Street West Lyndhurst, NJ 07071 Tel: 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com DAVID OSCARSON Tel: 636-458-4345 www.davidoscarson.com

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DUBEY & SCHALDENBRAND 648 Washington St., Ste. 202 Norwood, MA 02062 Tel: 781-269-5569 www.dubeywatch.com ERNEST BOREL 76 Littleton Road Chelmsford, MA 01824 Tel: 877-566-1824 www.ernestborel.ch GLYCINE Swiss Watch Consultants, LLC 80 Canal St. Manchester, NH 03101 Tel: 603-206-5195 www.glycine-watch.ch

LUMINOX LUMONDI 2301 Kerner Blvd., Ste. A San Rafael, CA 94901 Tel: 415-455-9500 www.luminox.com MAURICE LACROIX 103 Carnegie Center, Ste. 300 Princeton, NJ 08540 Tel: 609-375-2293 www.MauriceLacroix.com MOVADO 650 From Road Paramus, NJ 07652 Tel: 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com

HERITAGE AUCTIONS 3500 Maple Ave. Dallas, TX 75219 Tel: 877-HERITAGE Tel: 214-528-3500 www.ha.com

MTM SPECIAL OPS WATCH 1225 South Grand Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90015 Tel: 800-284-9487 Tel: 213-741-0808 www.specialopswatch.com

HERMES 55 East 59th Street New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-835-6417 www.hermes.com

PIAGET 645 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com

JACOB & CO. Tel: 877-70-JACOB Tel: 212-719-5887 www.jacobandco.com

RAYMOND WEIL 635 Madison Ave., 6 Fl. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-355-3350 www.raymond-weil.com

JAEGER-LeCOULTRE 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

88 RUE DU RHONE 635 Madison Ave., 6 Fl. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-737-8882 www.88rdr.com SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Tel: 877-FLY-SWISS www.swiss.com TAVANNES P. O. Box 85 Valencia, PA 16059 Tel: 412-600-4240 www.tavanneswatches.com TUDOR WATCH U.S.A. 665 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-897-9900 www.tudorwatch.com VACHERON CONSTANTIN Tel: 877-862-7555 Tel: 855-729-1755 www.vacheron-constantin.com WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com

ROLEX WATCH USA 665 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com

11/1/13 1:20 PM

arceau le temps suspendu la montre hermès reinvents time and sets it to the tempo of your desires. press on the pushbutton and suspend time. beneath the dial, time continues to run within the heart of the mechanism. another push on the button sets the date and hands running again. time resumes its march, and you the course of your day. this exclusive hermès calibre is a world première.

hermès, time reinvented.

F-35 Lightning II™ Flight Calculation/Chronograph No. 9388: 45mm, stainless steel case, screw down crown & case back, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, bidirectional rotating bezel with black aluminum slide rule ring, dial ring with tachymetric scale, genuine black leather strap with orange contrast stitching and signature buckle, water resistant to 200 meters, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

Preferred timepiece of Military and Commercial Pilots.

1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com

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The Luminox F-35 Lightning II™ Series is part of the

www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox

Collection.

11/1/13 1:20 PM

For the Curious, The Collector and the Connoisseur

17th of September 1755. In the offices of the solicitor Mr. Choisy, a young Master Watchmaker from Geneva named Jean-Marc Vacheron is about to hire his first apprentice. This agreement is the first known reference to the founding watchmaker of a prestigious dynasty and it represents the establishment of Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watchmaking manufacturer in the world in continuous operation.

Ever since this agreement, and true to the history that built its reputation, Vacheron Constantin has been committed to passing on its knowledge to each of its Master Watchmakers in order to guarantee the excellence and durability of its craftsmanship and of its timepieces.

Pebble Beach TUDOR Launch

Fall/Winter 2013 $6.95

Santos de Cartier American Modern Museum of Modern Art

Patrimony Contemporaine

fall/winter 2013

Hallmark of Geneva, Pink gold case, Hand-wound mechanical movement Réf. 81180/000R-9159

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Number one hundred five

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10/8/13 9:56 AM

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee

11/1/13 1:20 PM