FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR
Spring/Summer 2013
In 1839, Vacheron Constantin created the famous pantograph, a mechanical device allowing for principal watchmaking components to be reproduced with total precision. Elevating the quality of its timepieces even further, this invention, which also revolutionized Swiss watchmaking, would propel the brand into the future.
Faithful to the history upon which its reputation is built, Vacheron Constantin endeavours to maintain, repair and restore all watches it has produced since its founding: a sign of excellence and confidence, which continues to elevate the brand’s name and stature.
$6.95
Patrimony Contemporaine Perpetual Calendar
SPRING/SUMMER 2013
Hallmark of Geneva, pink-gold case, ultra-slim mechanical movement with automatic winding, calibre 1120 QP, moon phases. Reference: 43175/000R -9687
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NUMBER ONE HUNDRED TWO
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Atacama Field Chronograph No. 1945: 45mm, black PVD steel case, screw case back and screw down crown, antireflective sapphire crystal, water resistant to 100 meters, alarm feature, golden tan distressed leather strap with black PVD buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of automotive enthusiasts.
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No. 102
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Editor's Outline
The Watercolors of John Singer Sargent
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News
Previews
Clive Cussler Museum A Very Classy Camper by Stuart Leuthner
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The Art of Hermès by Carol Besler
88 Rue du Rhone
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Rolex 24 at Daytona by Denis L. Tanney
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Audubon The Birds of America by Andrew Siskind
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46 Graff Puts the Sparkle in Watchmaking by Carol Besler
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94 Watch Collector
50 Bell & Ross Limited Edition Collector’s Series by Carol Besler
Inside Grand Canyon by Raj Walia
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Havasu Falls
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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the April/May issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557
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EDITOR'S OUTLINE
Our cover story on page 40, The Art of Hermès, presents an interesting history of Hermès in watchmaking that dates back to 1912. In a nod to its heritage, Hermès fits its watches with hand sewn leather straps made in its own leather workshop. This background story on Hermès, a maker of high luxury leather goods, focuses on the authenticity and artisanal quality of the brand. Graff Diamonds, traditionally a high jewelry company, recently added watchmaking to its oeuvre. The production values of the two are the same; high craftsmanship, design flare, attention to detail and technical expertise. “The facets of a single diamond have inspired the shape and design of Graff watches, and diamonds are present in the crown of every watch.” For the ultimate in horological luxury see the reference to their bespoke collection. The story starts on page 46. The Birds of America on page 44 gives an account of the New York Historical Society’s acquisition of many of John James Audubon’s original watercolors used in a gorgeous volume entitled Audubon’s Aviary: The Original Watercolors for The Birds of America that won a 2012 National Book Show Award. The works in the exhibition are Audubon’s preparatory watercolors for his creation The Birds of America and each is a masterpiece in its own right. John Singer Sargent was a Golden Age artist and painter of hundreds of privately commissioned portraits. John Singer Sargent Watercolors unites for the first time the Sargent watercolor collection of the Brooklyn Museum (April 5, 2013 through July 28, 2013) in Brooklyn, New York and the Sargent watercolor collection from the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, Massachusetts (October 13, 2013 through January 20, 2014). There are 93 watercolors included in this landmark exhibition, which is the culmination of a yearlong collaboration by a team of curators and conservators from both museums. See story on page 54. Once again we revisit the ever present connection between the world of automobiles and the world of watches on page 72, where the 24-hour Rolex 24 at Daytona is colorfully described. This last race under the Grand Am banner drew well over 100,000 spectators to Daytona. A merger in American sports car racing is coming, and the American Le Mans Series will be part of the Grand Am Series starting in 2014 – the new name for this race has yet to be announced. We examine how changing automotive design has impacted the style of the race over time, and how the merger will shape the future of America’s one international sports car series A distinctive addition to the Clive Cussler Museum’s world-class collection of automotive art is an outstanding 1916 Pierce-Arrow Series 4 seven passenger touring car. In an ad appearing in a 1916 issue of Country Life in America, the carmaker stated, “the men who buy Pierce-Arrow cars are liberal spenders but shrewd buyers.” See story on page 62 to learn about the history of luxury cars available in the early twentieth century.
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Dressa
hermès. time in movement
dressage la montre hermès tames time so as to master its measurement. at the heart of the dressage model ticks the steady beat of the manufacture h1837 mechanical movement. from development through to the final adjustments, and from the making of each part to their finishing by hand, la montre hermès dedicates elegance and fine craftsmanship to the service of precision.
1-800-441-4488 - hermes.com
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news Spring/Summer 2013 VACHERON CONSTANTIN SUPPORTS ARTS DEVELOPMENT The ECAL/Ecole Cantonale d’art de Lausanne, one of the world’s top universities of art and design, is launching a Masters degree in Luxury Industry and Design, thanks to the generous support of Vacheron Constantin. The Master of Advanced Studies in Design for Luxury & Craftsmanship is for the holders of a Bachelor or Master’s degree wishing to further their knowledge in industrial design and investigate sectors of excellence as diverse as fine watchmaking, tableware or specific techniques using noble materials.
No. 102
PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Jay Lazar ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind WATCH & JEWELRY EDITOR Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher
Alexis Georgacopoulos, director of ECAL, and Juan Carlos Torres, CEO of Vacheron Constantin
TECHNICAL WRITER David Christianson
HERMÈS TO DISPLAY ITS CRAFTSMANSHIP Hermès is set to hold the Festival des Métiers in Toronto this fall, from October 2-6 at the Design Exchange, Canada’s Design Museum. The aim is to demonstrate the longstanding traditions and values of Hermès in the crafting of fine objects, including handbags, silk scarves, ties and watches. It will feature demonstrations by master craftsmen and women from the renowned Hermès workshops in France, illustrating the methods in which products are painstakingly made by hand using techniques passed from generation to generation.
AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos / Lazar Advertising & Marketing 222 West 37 St., 6 Fl. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 212-889-9660 e-mail: chronos@lazaradv.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING CIRCULATION 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060
Hermès honors its heritage of craftsmanship
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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.
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95506
SCHAUMBURG WATCH Ice Crystal
©2013 CHANEL®, Inc.
LA MONTRE PREMIÈRE
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FLYING
TOURBILLON
Limited edition of 20 numbered pieces. 18-carat white gold, set with 228 diamonds (~7.7 carats).
Frisco, TX p:(214)494-4241
chaNeL BOUTIqUes 800.550.0005 chaNeL.cOm
Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684
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news ZENITH HAILS THE NOMINEES
Left to right: Ben Affleck and Juliette North (Zenith marketing director), Jennifer Lawrence, Jessica Chastain, Naomi Watts, Stephen Spielberg
Zenith Timepieces sponsored the Hollywood Reporter’s event honoring the nominees of the 85th Academy Awards at Spago in Beverly Hills. Guests included Ben Affleck, Jessica Chastain, Amy Adams, Jennifer Lawrence, Naomi Watts, Julia Stiles, Steven Spielberg and Tim Burton. Zenith had one of its watchmaking artisans on site who entertained guests with a watchmaking demonstration illustrating the fine craftsmanship and skill involved in making a Zenith movement.
PIAGET AT THE OSCARS A record number of stars chose to wear Piaget for Oscar night, whether attending the awards ceremony itself or making the rounds at the hottest parties. Best Actor nominee Hugh Jackman chose the ultra-slim Piaget Altiplano in white gold. Oscar presenters Mark Ruffalo and Paul Rudd both opted for classic gold Piaget Altiplanos, while “Silver Linings Playbook” star Chris Tucker wore a fully-paved white gold Altiplano. Jamie Foxx, wore a Piaget Protocole XXL in white gold, while his daughter Corinne wore a graceful white gold and diamond pendant, set with 79 brilliant-cut diamonds, from Piaget’s Limelight Embroidery collection, along with matching earrings and 10-carat rubellite cocktail ring.
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Top row left to right: Hugh Jackman congratulates Anne Hathaway on her Oscar win for Best Supporting Actress, Jamie Foxx and his daughter Corinne Bishop, Dree Hemingway. Bottom row left to right: Paula Patton, Chris Tucker
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Chro
T HERE ARE STORIES THAT DESERVE TO BE CAPTURED FOREVER.
Created in 1931 for polo players, the Reverso is one of the rare cult watches in horological history. Its second face that may be personalised will enable you to choose exactly the moment you wish to remember forever. What will yours be? Let our engraving, enamelling and gemsetting artists immortalise your legend. A Reverso just for you. GRANDE REVERSO ULTRA THIN TRIBUTE TO 1931. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822.
YOU DESERVE A REAL WATCH.
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news TAG HEUER CELEBRATES ITS HERITAGE VIP guests joined TAG Heuer’s President & CEO, Ulrich Wohn and man of the hour, Honorary Chairman Jack Heuer, at Highline Stages in New York City recently for a night of cocktails, canapés and auto-racing, to toast the 50th Anniversary of the iconic Carrera collection. Attendees were surrounded by rare vintage TAG Heuer Carrera pieces on special loan by the TAG Heuer Historical Museum. Fashion editors, watch and auto enthusiasts, New York VIP’s and celebrities were on hand for the event, as was a private selection of new and vintage Porches to enhance the 50th anniversary milestone. Jack Heuer delighted the crowd with inspirational stories behind the brand and the collection’s inception, telling stories of his times with racing legends like the Rodriguez brothers, Juan-Manuel Fangio and more. Musician Miri-Ben Ari surprised guests with an exciting performance.
Jack Heuer and Ulrich Wohn, president & CEO of TAG Heuer
RAFA WINS WEARING RICHARD MILLE Richard Mille brand partner Rafael Nadal won the top prize at Acapulco’s Abierto Mexicano Telcel tournament while wearing the new Richard Mille RM 27-01 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal. The Majorcan defeated his countryman David Ferrer 6-0, 6-2 in one hour and six minutes on clay. Rafael Nadal, who was away from courts for seven months due to a long-term knee injury, did not concede a single set and gave up his serve only once. Thanks to this victorious final, Rafael adds a 52nd title, of which 38 were on clay. The RM 027 Tourbillon movement is held in total suspension at its heart and a baseplate attached to the case by four braided steel cables. It can withstand extreme shocks.
Rafael Nadal takes the trophy at Acapulco’s Abierto Mexicano Telcel tournament wearing his Richard Mille RM 27-01
The Richard Mille RM 27-01 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal
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news SULLY REPRESENTS JEANRICHARD
Captain Chesley “Sully” Sullenberger teams with JeanRichard
Swiss watchmaker JeanRichard launched its partnership with heroic icon in aviation Captain Chesley “Sully” Sullenberger at a dinner at the Standard Hotel in New York City in February. “Sully is not only an individual with profoundly admirable qualities under pressure, as we saw in 2009 with his emergency landing on the Hudson,” said Bruno Grande, COO of JeanRichard. “He is also one who has taken and channeled those qualities towards the improvement and encouragement of aviation safety and knowledge of this art. We are very proud to have him as a part of the JeanRichard family and look forward to continued success together.”
Guests Olympic Fencing Silver Medalist Tim Morehouse and his wife, Rachael Morehouse; Sully Sullenberger; and JeanRichard COO Bruno Grande
GRAHAM LAUNCHES LA KINGS WATCH AT WESTIME LA Kings center Jarret Stoll and club president Luc Robitaille helped Luxury Swiss watchmaker Graham celebrate the launch of its limited edition timepiece at Westime in Los Angeles. The event was hosted by Luc Robitaille, a Hall of Fame player and current club president. Graham is the Official Timekeeper of the Los Angeles Kings. The limited-edition timepiece was designed to honor the winners of the NHL Stanley Cup Championship. LA Kings center Jarret Stoll autographs pucks Actor Cas Anvar and Samir Shah, managing director of Graham Watch
LA Kings center Jarret Stoll, FOX sports presenter Erin Andrews and Samir Shah, managing director of Graham Watch Westime president Greg Simonian, Jarret Stoll and Samir Shah
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Samir Shah of Graham Watch, LA Kings president Luc Robitaille and LA Kings center Jarret Stoll
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news PEOPLE IN THE NEWS Patrick Heiniger, the CEO of Rolex Watch from 1992 to 2008, passed away in March of an unspecified illness, at the age of 62. Heiniger was only the third managing director in Rolex’s history when he was appointed in 1992, five years after which he became chief executive. Before he took charge, Rolex had been headed for three decades by his father André, who took over three years after founder Hans Wilsdorf died in 1960.
Francois-Henry Bennahmias has been appointed CEO of Audemars Piguet. General manager ad interim since the end of May 2012, Bennahmias, 48, was CEO of Audemars Piguet North America in New York since 1999.
Raymond Weil has appointed watch industry veteran Stuart Sklar as vice president of North America. He was previously a senior vice president with Movado Group, president of Maurice Lacroix and vice president of national sales at Bulova. “Working alongside Olivier, Elie, and Pierre Bernheim, our dedicated team’s goal is to cultivate the successful growth of Raymond Weil by ensuring partnerships with the best watch retailers in North America and establishing 88 Rue du Rhone as the most compelling new Swiss watch brand of 2013”, says Sklar.
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Publisher Francois Tauriac has been named managing director of Richard Mille. Tauriac studied law and began his career as a journalist. At the Figaro Group he worked at the group’s French daily newspaper, and went on to join France-Soir magazine as a reporter. He also developed the first magazine television channel on YouTube: “Very Watch.”
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13-C
Consideration to detail:
SIGNATURE GRAND TOURING AUTOMATIC Specially-designed rotor with 24 jewels viewed through an exhibition caseback. 44mm case. Curved sapphire crystal.
citizen-signature.com
Š2013 Citizen Watch Company
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previews MONTBLANC NICOLAS RIEUSSEC RISING HOURS The Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours is a jumping hour watch with a twist. The central numeral in the window at 12 o’clock reveals not only the hour but whether it’s a day or night hour. The numerals 1 to 12 are cut out, skeleton-fashion, from an upper disc, which rotates above a bicolor day/night disc so that a light or dark hue appears behind the numeral – blue for night time hours and black for day. Montblanc 800-995-4810 www.montblanc.com
PANERAI LUMINOR FLYBACK The Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback contains the P.9100 caliber, the brand’s first automatic movement with a chronograph flyback function, made entirely in-house. The watch is available in a purely sports version in steel, or as a dress watch in red gold. The flyback function, controlled by a push-button at eight o’clock, instantly returns the chronograph hand to zero and simultaneously restarts it without making it necessary to press a stop and reset button. Officine Panerai 877-PANERAI www.panerai.com
BACKES & STRAUSS RENAISSANCE Backes & Strauss has been a diamond company since 1789, and its watches are therefore traditionally set with some of the world’s finest diamonds. For the first time, however, the brand’s new model in the Renaissance collection offers an option without diamonds. It is an extremely slender watch, at only 6.1mm thickness, and is designed as an homage to the elegant architecture of London, England. Roman numerals are hand-set on a choice of dial colors to match the alligator skin straps. The movement is a manual-wound mechanical caliber. Backes & Strauss 212-463-8898 www.backesandstrauss.com 20
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chro
Cristiano Ronaldo
G
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Multi Time Zone GPS Timepiece, Black PVD Stainless Steel, Interchangeable Cage V I S I T U S AT B A S E LW O R L D
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H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D B 3 1
jacobandco.com contact@jacobandco.com N ew York C ity + 1 . 2 1 2 . 7 1 9 . 5 8 8 7 Geneva +41.22.310.6962
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previews IWC INGENIEUR CONSTANTFORCE TOURBILLON The constant-force tourbillon is designed to guarantee a regular and precise rate of timekeeping. The mainspring in a conventional hand-wound movement is under more tension when freshly wound than when running down, so the amount of power it generates varies constantly. The constant-force mechanism allows the escapement to be uncoupled from the gear train, which keeps the amplitude of the balance – and thus the watch’s rate – virtually constant. The case is platinum and ceramic. IWC Schaffhausen 800-432-9330 www.iwc.com
RALPH LAUREN STIRRUP Ralph Lauren’s latest model in the Stirrup collection leads the new trend in ladies’ watches to large, open chain-link style braceletss. The 2013 Stirrup also represents a new level of accessibility from Ralph Lauren, as it is the brand’s first steel watch. A selection of new, colorful straps for the collection are also available. Ralph Lauren introduced the Stirrup collection only four years ago, and it has already become one of the most recognizable watches in the world. Ralph Lauren Watches 212-434-8050 www.ralphlaurenwatches.com
PIAGET EMPERADOR COUSSIN ULTRATHIN MINUTE REPEATER Piaget continues to solidify its reputation as the maker of the world’s thinnest mechanical movements, with the Emperador Coussin Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater. At only 4.8mm thick, caliber 1290P (9.4mm in its case) is the world’s thinnest automatic minute repeater. Unique to this movement is a repeater slide that is pushed downwards rather than upwards. The case has been hollowed out as much as possible in order to achieve optimal resonance. Piaget 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com 22
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WW1 CHRONOGRAPHE MONOPOUSSOIR Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 路 information@bellrossusa.com 路 e-Boutique: www.bellross.com
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previews ARNOLD & SON SIDEREAL Arnold & Son was one of the first brands to create a watch with sidereal time, a heritage that is echoed two centuries later with a sidereal/solar timepiece. The dial features two independently operating counters, powered by two different calibers that were designed, developed and produced entirely in-house. It comprises two balances and two barrels. Functions include hours, minutes and seconds in local time, sidereal hours and minutes and 24-hour indication of local and sidereal time. The 44mm case is 18k pink gold. There is a local time crown at 3 o’clock and sidereal time crown at 9 o’clock. It is water-resistant to 30 meters. Arnold & Son 213-622-1133 www.arnoldandson.com
EBEL ONDE Ebel is reknowned for its classic ladies’ dress watches. The latest introduction is the Onde 30mm, in steel bracelet and 18k rose gold, with alternating brushed and polished finishes. The dial is set with diamond hour markers, the bezel is set with 38 diamonds and the crown is set with 14 diamonds. The movement is quartz, and functions include hours, minutes and sweep seconds. It is water resistant to 50 meters. Ebel 800-920-3153 www.ebel.com
CHANEL PREMIERE Chanel is at the lead of a trend toward chain link bracelets, in both watches and jewelry, with its new version of the Premiere. The steel case and link bracelet are complemented with a white mother-of-pearl dial and an onyx cabochon crown. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters and contains a quartz movement. The Premiere is also available in 18k gold with a black lacquered dial, and in a diamond-set version. Chanel Inc. 212-688-5055 www.chanel.com
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www.edifice.casio.com
FUELED BY SOLAR POWER DRIVEN BY SMART ACCESS.
Mark Webber and Sebastian Vettel
A SOLAR PANEL COMBINED WITH A LARGE-CAPACITY RECHARGEABLE BATTERY ENABLES THIS IMPRESSIVE SOLAR TIMEPIECE TO RUN SMOOTHLY UNDER ANY LIGHT WITH NO BATTERY REPLACEMENT.
SMART ACCESS EQSA500DB-1A
SOLAR POWERED
THIS SYSTEM PROVIDES FAST, INTUITIVE ACCESS TO ALL OF THE KEY FUNCTIONS VIA AN ELECTRONIC CROWN. THE CROWN CAN BE PUSHED AND TURNED TO SWITCH BETWEEN INDIVIDUAL MODES TO OPERATE VARIOUS FUNCTIONS.
©2013 CASIO AMERICA, INC.
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previews GUCCI COUPÉ DIAMONDS The Gucci Coupé is now available in a ladies’ version. The TV-screen shaped watch is grey mother-of-pearl, decorated with Gucci’s iconic GG pattern. The Gucci logo also appears at 12 o’clock, and the flange is set with 60 diamonds totaling 0.42ct. The watch houses a Swiss quartz movement, which drives hours minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock. The case is steel and the strap is grey crocodile. The watch is water-resistant to 50 meters. Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry 800-234-8224 877-482-2499 www.gucci.com/watches
HAMILTON JAZZMASTER FACE2FACE The unique rotating case of this watch houses two dials, one presenting a chronograph and the other a three-hand timekeeper. The common denominator of the two contrasting faces is the decorated, skeletonized rotor of each automatic movement, which is fully visible in the oval-shaped case. The two sides can be used for two different time zones. It will be made in a limited edition of 888 pieces. Hamilton, The Swatch Group USA 201-271-1400 www.hamiltonwatch.com
JAEGERLECOULTRE DEEP SEA CHRONOGRAPH This diver’s chronograph is a tribute to the brand’s 1959 Memovox Deep Sea model, which was equipped with an alarm. The new model features a chronograph mode indicator, which enables the diver to check at a glance whether the chronograph is running, stopped or reset. The case is made of reinforced Cermet – a revolutionary material composed of a lightweight aluminum matrix that is reinforced by ceramic particles, topped by a 40 micron-thick protective ceramic coating. Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com 26
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Ch
jasmine collection
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previews OMEGA PLANET OCEAN This limited-edition Planet Ocean celebrates Sochi, the Russian city that is the site of the 2014 Olympic Winter Games. The watch is stainless steel with a matt black ceramic ring that has a chromium nitride divers’ scale. In a tribute to the colors of the flag of the Russian Federation, minutes 1 through 5 are lacquered in blue, and minutes 6 through 10 are lacquered in red. The caseback is embossed with the Sochi 2014 Olympic logo. There is a helium escape valve located at 10 o’clock on the case. Omega, The Swatch Group USA 800-76-OMEGA www.omegawatches.com
GIRARDPERREGAUX CATSEYE This iconic ladies’ timepiece is now available in steel, with a larger case size. The bezel has been redesigned to present the diamonds set into it at an angle, from which they can catch the light. The dial, in champagne or silver color, has a sunbrushed finish, with a small-seconds counter at 9 o’clock, a date window at 3 o’clock, and an innovative power-reserve indicator between 4 and 6 o’clock, which uses a constellation of diamond stars as an index. Girard-Perregaux 877-846-3447 www.girard-perregaux.com
GRAHAM SILVERSTONE TOURBILLOGRAPH This combination tourbillon and chronograph is a sport/dress watch. The tourbillon cage is made of durable ruthenium, a platinum-group metal, and is fully open on the dial. The elegant finishes include snailed subdials and a Clous de Paris pattern on the bezel and pushers. It features Super-LumiNova coated hands and counters, a tachymeter scale on the flange and pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock. It is a limited edition of 50 pieces. Graham Watches 213-622-1716 www.graham-london.com
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication in titanium.
The movement as seen from the caseback of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication.
AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE GRAND COMPLICATION This is the first grand complication for the Royal Oak Offshore line, a collection created in 1993. It has a mechanical selfwinding movement that combines minute repeater, split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar functions. The minute repeater sounds the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. The movement, caliber 2885 is finished with meticulous care; in fact, each of the three pieces in this limited series is individually executed by a single artisan who will devote more than 820 hours of painstaking craftsmanship to this task. The finish is the ultimate expression of the artist’s mastery. These specific angles, which can be easily pinpointed in the mechanism, may be viewed as the secret signature of the artisan, and provide undeniable proof that the work is performed by hand – no machine could possibly produce this type of finish. The watch is titanium, with a black ceramic bezel, and the oscillating weight is solid gold and coated with anthracite. It also comes in a pink gold version. Although this is the first grand complication in the Royal Oak Offshore line, Audemars Piguet has been creating grand complication timepieces continuously since 1882. Audemars Piguet 888-214-6858 www.audemarspiguet.com Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication in pink gold.
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previews CHOPARD SUPERFAST CHRONO The Superfast Chrono, Superfast Power Control and Superfast Automatic are three new models in the Chopard’s Classic Racing Collection. These are the first models in the collection to be equipped with Chopard movements that are designed, developed and assembled in-house, in the Fleurier Ebauches workshops.
Chopard Superfast Chrono.
Chopard has long been a partner of many classic car races, including the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique and the Mille Miglia – a rally covering 1,000 miles (1,600 km) running from Brescia to Rome and back. The SuperFast collection pays tribute to these races. The trio of watches are designed to reflect the world of racing, with vertical lines on the dial that evoke the cooling fins found on air-cooled racing engines. The minute numerals on the inner bezel resemble the markers on sports-car rev-counters and speedometers. The Superfast Chrono houses Chopard caliber 03.05-M, a mechanical self-winding movement powering hours, minutes, small seconds and a chronograph function. The Superfast Automatic is equipped with self-winding Chopard caliber 01.01-M, displaying hours, minutes and seconds. The movement is COSC certified, with a 60-hour power reserve. The Superfast Power Control houses caliber 01.02-M, with functions that include hours, minutes, small seconds, date window and a power-reserve indicator. Chopard USA 800-CHOPARD 212-821-0300 www.chopard.com
Chopard Superfast Power Control. Chopard Superfast Automatic.
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9700 COLLECTION DIVERS CHRONOGRAPH
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MODEL 9700-24
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The Art of
Hermès A proprietary caliber yielding two in-house watch movements brings out the beauty of Hermès signature watch collections by Carol Besler
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The village Fleurier in Switzerland, where Hermès movements are made. photo courtesy: Carol Besler
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H
ermès, known mainly as a maker of high-luxury leather goods, has a history in watchmaking that dates to 1912. The brand established its first watch division in Switzerland in 1978, when it introduced the Arceau, still one of its signature lines. La Montre Hermès entrusted the production of its haute horlogerie mechanical models to Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, in which it current holds a 25% stake. The two companies share a passion for hand-crafted fine workmanship. In 2012, Hermès launched its first automatic base caliber, which gave rise to two movements, the H1912 (a slim-dress-watch movement used in the Arceau model), and the caliber H1837, available with either a large central seconds hand and a date display at 6 o’clock, or with small seconds at 6 o’clock. The name of the H1837 refers to the founding date of the Maison Hermès, while the name of the H1912 caliber refers to the date of an archive photo of Jacqueline Hermès, a fourth generation member of the founding family, wearing a “porte-oignon,” a watch with an Hermèsmade leather strap. “Wherever we can, Hermès tries to develop its know-how in house,” says Luc Perramond, president of Hermès’ watch division. “We are interested in the craftsmanship behind the product. This makes us more authentic, and it also means we can control the quality.”
The Arceau Ecuyère in steel, set with 60 round diamonds, with automatic movement caliber H1912
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Concurrent with the introduction of the new movements, Hermès recently launched a new ladies’ model in the Arceau line. The signature line of the Arceau, designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, are its sloping numerals and asymmetrical stirrup-shaped strap attachments – a tribute to the equestrian world. The slim, ladies’ model, with the H1912 movement, features a stamped radiating motif centered around the small seconds on the dial. Six references, including gem-set models, all feature straps made by Hermès. The H1837 movement is used in the Dressage watch, first launched in 2003. It is distinctive for its beveled barrel or “tonneau” shape, with integrated lugs. The movement is hand finished, with plates that are circular-grained and snailed, and an oscillating weight that is satinbrushed and adorned with a sprinkling of H symbols – the iconic Hermès pattern. The bridges feature the same symbol. There are ten models in the collection. New in the collection this year is the Arceau Petite Lune, commemorating the 35th anniversary of the iconic line. Aside from hours and minutes, the new watch features two complications: a moon phase indicator and lunar cycle indicator, displayed on a white or black mother-of-pearl dial. It is powered by a mechanical selfwinding movement crafted in Switzerland with a Dubois Depraz small moon module. Its alligator strap is available in three colors – indigo blue, elephant grey or black,
The Arceau Petite Lune with black mother-of-pearl dial, commemorating the 35th anniversary of the iconic line
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crafted in the company workshops using the saddlestitching technique. In a nod to its heritage, Hermès fits its watches with hand-sewn leather straps made in its own leather workshops. Founder Thierry Hermès was a saddler after all, who, in 1837, opened a harness workshop in Paris dedicated to serving European noblemen. Those coveted Birkin and Kelly bags are the evolution of high-end saddlebags for men, and so are the watch straps. Many of the construction techniques are the same, including the plein cuir technique (layers of leather hand-stitched together) and the double-loop saddle stitch. The use of these techniques for the brand’s straps, in its Swiss workshop, is an example of the authenticity and artisanal quality of the brand.
The Hermès Arceau Petite Lune with white mother-of-pearl dial, commemorating the 35th anniversary of the iconic line
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THE BIRDS OF AMERICA by Andrew Siskind
Images provided by The New York Historical Society
John James Audubon (1785–1851) Tufted Titmouse (Baeolophus bicolor), Study for Havell pl. no. 39, 1822 Watercolor, graphite, gouache, and black ink with touches of black chalk and glazing on paper, laid on card; 18 5/8 x 11 11/16 in. (47.3 x 29.7 cm) New-York Historical Society, Purchased for the Society by public subscription from Mrs. John J. Audubon, 1863.17.39
The New York Historical Society Museum and Library has over the years put on many fine exhibitions that we here at Chronos have enjoyed immensely. When we heard of their new three-part show, “Audubon’s Aviary: The Complete Flock,” the breathtaking watercolors of John James Audubon, we were especially excited. We’ve long been enthusiasts of Audubon’s work, and several excellent prints of his masterful watercolors 44
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John James Audubon (1785–1851) Great Egret (Ardea alba), 1821 Watercolor, graphite, pastel, gouache, white lead pigment, black ink, and black chalk with selective glazing on paper, laid on card; 37 7/16 x 25 9/16 in. (95.1 x 64.9 cm) New-York Historical Society, Purchased for the Society by public subscription from Mrs. John J. Audubon, 1863.18.30
decorate our office walls. The exhibition is centered around the Historical Society’s acquisition of many of these seminal watercolors, and their publishing in partnership with Skira/Rizzoli, of Audubon’s Aviary: The Original Watercolors for “The Birds of America”. This is a gorgeous volume that won a 2012 National Book Show Award. The exhibition will display the first third of the 474 watercolors that have been acquired, alongside a variety of media installations that will support the original pieces and contextualize them in terms of the relationship between art and the natural world.
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The works in the exhibition are Audubon’s preparatory watercolors for his creation, The Birds of America, and each is a masterpiece in its own right. To supplement these pieces, the Historical Society has culled from its own holdings additional works that illuminate Audubon’s development as an artist, including a selection of his very early pastels and some of his first depictions of avian life. A portion of these pastels hail from the Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle de la Rochelle in France, and have never before been displayed in the United States. These early works, done in pastel, reveal much about Audubon’s fascination with birds and the development of his artistic technique. The first part of the exhibition runs through May 19th at the New York Historical Society Museum and Library.
John James Audubon (1785–1851) Head of a Southern Cassowary, after 1810 Pastel and graphite on paper; 21 5/8 x 16 15/16 in. (55 x 43 cm) John James Audubon Letters and Drawings, Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Am 21, no. 95
John James Audubon (1785–1851) Hoopoe (Huppe fasciée), 1805–06 Pastel and graphite on paper; 11 13/16 x 7 7/8 in. (30 x 20 cm) Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle de la Rochelle, Collection Société des Sciences Naturelles de la Charente-Maritime, series 29, fol. 9
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John James Audubon (1785–1851) Carolina Parakeet (Conuropsis carolinensis), Study for Havell pl. no. 26, ca., 1825 Watercolor, graphite, pastel, gouache, and black ink with scraping and selective glazing on paper, laid on card; 29 3/4 x 21 1/4 in. (75.6 x 54 cm) New-York Historical Society, Purchased for the Society by public subscription from Mrs. John J. Audubon, 1863.17.26
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puts the sparkle in watchmaking by Carol Besler
The 47mm MasterGraff Minute Repeater Tourbillon, fully set with 40.65 carats of diamonds and 0.18 carats of emeralds, in white gold.
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The 48mm GyroGraff, in pink gold
The 47mm ScubaGraff DLC, in pink gold
I
t comes as no surprise that Graff Diamonds, traditionally a high jewelry company, recently added high watchmaking to its oeuvre, since the production values are the same: high craftsmanship, design flair, attention to detail and technical expertise. “The design inspiration for all Graff watches came from the DNA of the Graff Diamonds brand: the diamond,” says Michel Pitteloud, CEO of Graff Luxury Watches. Pitteloud previously held executive positions at Corum and the watchmaking divisions of Bulgari and Harry Winston. “The facets of a single diamond have inspired the shape and design of Graff watches, and diamonds are present in the crown of every watch. In many cases there are also diamonds on the case, dial, buckle and even the rotor.” Graff Diamonds was founded in 1960 by Laurence Graff, who began his career as a jeweler in London, where he opened his first workshop-based store in 1962. From the beginning, Graff was involved in every stage of the jewelry making process – from
the sourcing of each rough stone through to the cutting, polishing and final setting of each diamond. Today, Graff's procurement and polishing division, SAFDICO (South African Diamond Corporation,) cuts and polishes its own diamonds. Over the years, the brand has become famous for buying and selling some of the world’s most important diamonds, including the 47.39-carat Star of Bombay; the 70-carat, fancy blue Idol’s Eye; the 102.79-carat, D-Flawless Graff Constellation and the 160-carat Flame. “Laurence Graff had been considering the idea of creating luxury watches for some time,” says Pitteloud. “He came to me in 2008, with a challenge to produce a complete collection of watches in four categories: Technical, Dress, Sport and Jewelled (a Bespoke collection has since been added). A distinctly faceted bezel and lugs became the signature look, and the first models were launched at Baselworld in 2009.” “Graff Luxury Watches take their inspiration from the facets of a perfectly cut diamond, hence Spring/Summer 2013
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(9706)
the diamond mosaic setting,” says Pitteloud. To distinguish them from other diamond watches, Graff developed an exclusive “mosaic” gemsetting technique. “It took over a year to develop this distinctive mosaic setting, a highly sculptural technique consisting of a row of hexagonal diamonds surrounded by two triangular cut diamonds. Each diamond is selected by Graff gemologists.” Graff movements are made by two firms: Geneva movement maker MHC; and Technotime, located in Les Brenets in the Jura Mountains, Switzerland’s famous watchmaking district. The latest introduction is the MasterGraff Tourbillon collection. The classic MasterGraff tourbillon movements were made by Technotime and Concepto, one manual and one automatic. The company has collaborated with MHC for more unique, high horology pieces, such as the Gyrograph tourbillon and the Minute Repeater Tourbillon. “We work with carefully selected partners to ensure that our watches are on the same equally luxurious and fine level as Graff Diamond’s jewelry,” says Pitteloud. “The specifications relate 48
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The 45mm GraffStar Grand Date with the new dial, in white gold
to Laurence Graff ’s request to always feature the highest technical expertise in Graff movements and complications.” To date there are three calibers designed exclusively for Graff. In 2010, Graff launched its first in-house designed movement, known as Graff Calibre 1 which can be found in the GraffStar Grand Date. Graff Calibre 2 was unveiled at Basel 2011 in the ScubaGraff diving watch. Graff Calibre 3 is encased in the GraffStar Slim watch, and the most recent in-house designed movement is the Graff Calibre 4 in MasterGraff 43mm Ultra Flat Tourbillon. Like any good jeweler who does custom designs, Graff offers its watch clientele a Bespoke collection. “It offers the ultimate in horological luxury,” says Pitteloud. “Upon request, Graff ’s master craftsmen will create a uniquely personal watch, customized to its owner’s preferred diamond, gemstone, dial and engraving specification – a harmonious combination of iconic design, passion and individual style.” Graff Watches are sold at Graff boutiques. For information, visit www.graffdiamonds.com
Chronos 2013 Issue 102
The MasterGraff 43mm Ultra Flat Tourbillon, in pink gold
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(9706) Chronos 2013 Issue 102
Another Triumph in German Engineering!
ZEITMEISTER AVIATOR CHRONOGRAPH XL A milestone in fine German watchmaking: the first officially tested chronometers certified to German DIN standards at the Glash端tte Observatory. WEMPE ZEITMEISTER Aviator Chronograph XL, 45mm stainless steel case, luminous dial with date display, automatic movement, $ 3,580. Exclusively at Wempe.
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Limited-edition collector’s series of Bell & Ross BR 01 by Carol Besler
B
ell & Ross is offering a collector’s box containing six models from its iconic BR 01 aviation series – three of them are brand new BR 01 models. The BR 01 collection is directly inspired by the instrumentation of aircraft cockpits, and addresses four fundamental requirements: legibility, functionality, precision and water-resistance. Since the collection was introduced in 2005, Bell & Ross has expanded the series with new high-tech models – the BR 01 Compass in 2010, the BR 01 Radar in 2011, and three new versions in 2012, including the BR 01 Horizon, BR 01 Altimeter, and BR 01 Turn Coordinator.
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The Bell & Ross BR 01 Heading Indicator The design of the BR 01 collection is inspired by flight instrumentation panels. The gyrocompass, or course indicator, for example, is the inspiration behind the new BR 01 Heading Indicator timepiece
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Three new timepieces in the BR 01 collection will be unveiled this month at Baselworld, the Swiss watch trade fair: BR 01 Heading Indicator. The gyrocompass, course indicator or flight compass is a vital instrument for flying, used during both manual flight and autopilot. It indicates the course the plane is on. BR 01 Airspeed. The airspeed function indicates
speed. Specifically, it measures an aircraft’s speed in relation to the air through which it is moving and allows the plane to be flown in a controlled way without visibility. BR 01 Climb. The variometer or vertical speed indicator indicates to the pilot at all times whether the plane is ascending, descending or in level flight. The BR 01 Climb is homage to that design.
The Bell & Ross BR 01 Climb The design of the BR 01 collection is inspired by flight instrumentation panels. This Climb gauge, for example, is the inspiration behind the BR 01 Climb timepiece.
The BR 01 Airspeed The design of the BR 01 collection is inspired by flight instrumentation panels. This Airspeed gauge, for example, is the inspiration behind the new BR 01 Airspeed.
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T E The BR 01 Airspeed
With this new trio, Bell & Ross recreates the graphic style of navigation instruments as closely as possible, once again going beyond the traditional approach to reading the time. All contain ETA Swiss movements. These three new models are available individually in limited editions of 999 pieces. The ďŹ rst 99 will be offered exclusively in a lavish collector’s box containing the six instruments: BR 01 Horizon, Altimeter, Turn Coordinator, Airspeed, Heading Indicator and Climb. The display box is designed as a control panel in which, in true Bell & Ross form, the essential instruments are laid out in a T-shape for optimum legibility.
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Bell & Ross Flight Instruments
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The Bell & Ross BR 01 Collector's Box
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Time S
TIME FOR EVERYONE
THE ORIGINS, EVOLUTION, AND FUTURE OF PUBLIC TIME
“Time and the Brain” David Eagleman, Baylor College of Medicine “Recycling Time” E. C. Krupp, Griffith Observatory
Twenty years ago at Harvard University, the Longitude Symposium brought together 500 people interested in the history of timekeeping. Another epic gathering this year at Caltech will present twenty-three major thinkers with ideas on space time and brain time, on ancient clocks and modern wristwatches and sliced nanoseconds. Please register while you still have time.
“The Bell and the Clock: The Need for Public Time” Dava Sobel, author, East Hampton, New York “From Water to Weights: The Mechanisms and Functions of Public Time Devices from the Early Middle Ages to c. 1650” Anthony Turner, author and historian of scientific instruments, Le Mesnil-Le-Roy, France “Precision Crunching, 1650-1900: Measuring Time Accurately over 250 Years” Jonathan Betts, Royal Museums Greenwich, London, U.K.
Background of the James Arthur Lecture Jim Cipra, Chairman, NAWCC Ward Francillon Time Symposium Committee
“Bond Time: Pendulum, Spring, and Wire” Donald Saff, art historian, artist, and author, Oxford, Maryland
James Arthur Lecture: “The Time of Our Lives” William J. H. Andrewes, author, horological consultant, and sundial maker, Concord, Massachusetts
“The Evolution of Tower Clock Movements and Their Design over the Past 800 Years” Mark Frank, horological researcher and collector, Chicago, Illinois
Welcome Jean-Lou Chameau, President, California Institute of Technology
“Extreme Amateur Timekeeping: From Harrison to Einstein” Tom Van Baak, physicist, mathematician, operating systems software engineer, and precision clock enthusiast, Bellevue, Washington
Introductory Remarks Mostyn Gale, Chairman, 2013 NAWCC Ward Francillon Time Symposium “The Origin of the Universe and the Arrow of Time” Sean Carroll, California Institute of Technology “The Meaning of Time in Biology” Lynn Rothschild, NASA Ames Research Center; Stanford University; and Brown University
“Time and the Early Modern Economy” Tracy Dennison, California Institute of Technology “The Great Age of the Tower Clock” Chris McKay, author and specialist in turret clocks, Wimborne, Dorset, U.K.
NOVEMBER 7–9, 2013 CALIFORNIA INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY PASADENA, CALIFORNIA
“Affordable Time: America’s Contribution” Chris H. Bailey, formerly of American Clock & Watch Museum “The Standardizing of Civil Time” Geoff Chester, U.S. Naval Observatory “The Taming of Time” Jed Z. Buchwald, California Institute of Technology “From Bain to Shortt: Electrical Timekeeping, 1840–1940” James Nye, King’s College London and Antiquarian Horological Society, U.K. “The Quartz Revolution: Quartz Clocks and the Public in Britain, 1930–60” David Rooney, Science Museum, London, U.K. “Atomic Clock: Does Anyone Really Know What Time It Is?” Thomas O’Brian, National Institute of Standards and Technology
Keynote Address: “Time, Einstein, and the Coolest Stuff in the Universe” William D. Phillips, Nobel Laureate, National Institute of Standards and Technology
Visit www.timeforeveryone.org for details on schedule and advance registration.
www.timeforeveryone.org Time Sym.ChronosAd.2-27-13.indd 3 50_53Bell&Ross.indd 53
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John Singer Sargent, Santa Maria della Salute, 1904, translucent and opaque watercolor and graphite with graphite underdrawing, 18 3/16 x 23 in. Brooklyn Museum.
The Watercolors of
John Singer Sargent
t
he watercolors of John Singer Sargent are being revisited in an expansive new exhibition that combines the two largest collections of his work. A premiere portraitist of the Golden Age,
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Sargent painted hundreds of privately commissioned portraits, including two of United States presidents. As part of his work, Sargent traveled frequently, especially in Western Europe, and from 1902
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through 1912 he also painted numerous watercolors. During this period, he reinvented himself as an impressionistic painter of the landscapes and people he encountered on his journeys. Ninety-three of these works are included in this landmark exhibition, John Singer Sargent Watercolors, uniting for the first time the Sargent watercolor collections of The Brooklyn Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. These works were intended for Sargent's personal enjoyment, and he resisted selling them. When he eventually changed his mind, he insisted they be sold as a group, ensuring they would be viewed together. The Brooklyn Museum obtained eightythree of his works in 1909, outbidding the MFA, Boston, which was brought into the process at Sargent's behest. At a later exhibition in 1912, the MFA made up for their earlier failure and acquired 45 new watercolors by the artist. The ninety-three watercolors in the exhibition — including thirtyeight from Brooklyn’s collection, most of which have not been on view for decades — provide a once-in-ageneration opportunity to view a broad range of Sargent’s finest production in the medium. Brooklyn’s Sargent watercolors were purchased en masse from the artist’s 1909 debut exhibition in New York. Their subjects include Venice scenes, Mediterranean sailing vessels, intimate portraits, and the Bedouin subjects, produced during a 1905–6 trip through the Ottoman Levant, that Sargent considered among the most outstanding works of the group. Also among the Brooklyn watercolors are Santa Maria della Salute (1904), a carefully wrought painting that explores in detail the features of one of Venice’s greatest works of architecture; The Bridge of Sighs (circa 1903–4), a vigorously painted work that captures the action of gondoliers at work; Bedouins (circa (1905–6), a watercolor of expressive force and coloristic vibrancy completed during Sargent’s travels in Syria; A Tramp (circa 1904–6), a portrait of a world-weary man notable for its intimacy and directness; Gourds (1908), distinctive for its dense brushwork and brilliant palette; and In a Medici
Villa (1906), which reveals the artist’s love of formal Italian gardens and his preference for unexpectedly framed compositions. The watercolors purchased by the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, in 1912, were painted by Sargent with his Boston audience in mind and are more highly finished than the Brooklyn works. They feature subjects from his more recent travels to the Italian Alps, the villa gardens near Lucca, and
John Singer Sargent, Bedouins, circa 1905–6, opaque and translucent watercolor, 18 x 12 in. Brooklyn Museum.
the marble quarries of Carrara. He also did many portraits, including Corfu: Lights and Shadows (1909), a work that explores the colors and tones of sunlight and shadows cast on brilliant white surfaces; Spring/Summer 2013
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John Singer Sargent, Venice: Under the Rialto Bridge, 1909, translucent watercolor and touches of opaque watercolor with graphite underdrawing, 10 7/8 x 19 in. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, The Hayden Collection—Charles Henry Hayden Fund. Photograph © 2013 MFA, Boston.
John Singer Sargent, Corfu: Lights and Shadows, 1909, translucent and opaque watercolor with graphite underdrawing, 15 7/8 x 20 7/8 in. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, The Hayden Collection—Charles Henry Hayden Fund. Photograph © 2013 MFA, Boston.
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Simplon Pass: Reading (circa 1911), which highlights the artist’s affinity for luxuriant compositions of casually interlinked figures; The Cashmere Shawl (circa 1911), a work that approximates the verve and virtuosity of Sargent’s grand portraits in oil; Carrara Lizzatori I (1911), a dynamic impression of the quarry; and Villa di Marlia, Lucca: A Fountain (1910), which captures the vibrant interplay of light and shadow around which Baroque gardens were designed. The exhibition will also present nine oil paintings, including Brooklyn’s An Out-of-Doors Study, Paul Helleu and His Wife (1889), and Boston’s The Master and His Pupils (1914).
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John Singer Sargent, Simplon Pass: Reading, circa 1911, opaque and translucent watercolor and wax resist with graphite underdrawing, 20 1/16 x 14 1/16 in. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, The Hayden Collection—Charles Henry Hayden Fund. © 2013 MFA, Boston.
The culmination of a yearlong collaborative study by a team of curators and conservators from both museums, the exhibition succeeds in exploring the extension of the artist’s primary aesthetic concerns throughout his watercolor practice, which has traditionally been viewed as a tangential part of his oeuvre. New discoveries based on scientific study of Sargent’s pigments, papers, drawing techniques, paper preparation, and application of paint will be featured in a special section of the exhibition that
deconstructs the artist’s techniques. In addition, select works throughout the exhibition will be paired with videos that show a contemporary watercolor artist demonstrating some of Sargent’s working methods. The exhibition will be on view at the Brooklyn Museum from April 5 to July 28, 2013, and at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, from October 13, 2013, to January 20, 2014. It will then travel to the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. Spring/Summer 2013
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Omega Anti-Magnetic by Stuart Leuthner
The Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 gauss
M
agnets are everywhere. You may not see them, you may not feel them, but they are there: earphones and speakers; car doors; keyless access; medical equipment; elevators; handbags; electric motors in appliances; security systems; toys and computers -- a few dozen magnets are used to lock and unlock an iPad's screen when the cover is removed or closed. Through most of watchmaking's history, magnetism has been a significant problem. If a mechanical watch is expected to keep accurate time, the movement has to be protected from external
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forces. With more, and stronger, magnets being introduced into everyday life, a watch's accuracy can be compromised without its owner having any idea what is causing the problem. Arthur Bodin, Hyde Park Jeweler’s director of watch services explains, "Magnetism is something we have to consider on a daily basis. Timepieces are especially vulnerable when worn by people who travel a lot or those who work in the medical profession." To solve this unseen problem, Omega has announced the creation of a watch that far exceeds the levels of magnetic resistance achieved by any previous timepiece.
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On March 13, 2013, the Seamaster Aqua Terra >15,000 gauss was introduced at a press conference in a penthouse in New York's Setai building. Named after the gifted German mathematician, Carl Friedrich Gauss (1777-1855), the term gauss is used to measure the intensity of a magnetic field. In his opening remarks, Omega president, Stephen Urquhart gave credit to Swatch Group's unique ability to benefit from the knowledge and skills of the best engineers and researchers from its brands and companies. "Omega," Urquhart stated, "has a long history of creating technologies that have allowed the mechanical watch industry to evolve. This watch marks another milestone for Omega and for our industry." Urquhart then introduced Jean-Claaude Monachon, Omega vice president and head of product development, Michel Willemin, CEO of ASULAB, and Thierry Conus, the director of research & development at ETA. Conus explained how watchmakers have dealt with the problem of magnetism in the past by using inner cases -- the Faraday Cage. Constructed of materials designed to limit a magnet's effect on the watch's internal components, they provide a path for magnetic fields to pass around the movement rather than through it. This solution has several drawbacks. First, the materials cannot withstand the stronger magnetic forces encountered today. Second, from an aesthetic standpoint, the inner case made it impossible to fit the watch with a date display or sapphire presentation caseback. G.N. Hayek, CEO of Swatch Group, challenged Omega's engineers, scientists and metallurgists from its sister companies at the Swatch Group to create a totally non-magnetic watch. The technology developed by this exceptional team resulted in the co-axial calibre 8508, a movement that does not rely on a protective shield inside the watchcase to protect it from magnetism. Instead, the calibre 8508 is constructed of carefully selected nonferrous materials including a silicon balance spring and non-magnetic escapement. Omega claims the movement is 15 times more resistant to the effects of magnetism than other well-known brands. Jean Claude Monachon reminded attendees the calibre 8508 is another example of Omega's long history of technological innovation. Introduced
to the collection thirteen years ago, the Co-Axial escapement has allowed Omega to produce some of the most accurate and efficient mechanical watches on the market. Two recent innovations include Liquidmetal速 technology, which allows a bond between ceramics and a zirconium-based alloy, and Omega Ceragold速, the first process to allow the decoration of ceramic watch parts with eighteenkarat gold. The calibre 8505 is expected to be launched in the Seamaster Aqua Terra, but Omega has indicated all models will be fitted with the anti-magnetic movement by 2017. At this year's Baselworld, Omega will present the inside story about the technology and materials used to create this exciting breakthrough.
Jean-Claude Monachon, Omega Vice president and Head of Product Development
Pictured from the left are Michel Willemin, CEO of ASULAB; Stephen Urquhart, Omega President; JeanClaude Monachon, Omega VP and Head of Product Development; Thierry Conus, Director of Research & Development at ETA
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If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes The Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces certain to be of interest to collectors and connoisseurs.
CHRONOS includes
interesting stories about the world of automobiles and racing. Coverage of outstanding museum exhibits, fashion trends, and travel stories all add to the enjoyment and satisfaction of this unique lifestyle magazine.
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A Very Classy Camper by Stuart Leuthner
D
uring the early 1900s, Pierce-Arrow, Packard and Peerless were described as the "Three P's of Motordom." Owned by movie stars, business tycoons and royalty, the automobiles produced by the trio of manufacturers represented the epitome of luxury, performance, quality and status. The Cussler Museum recently added an outstanding 1916, Pierce-Arrow Series 4, seven-passenger touring car to their collection. Finished in maroon, with a black top and white natural rubber tires, the imposing car's front fenders are crowned with the company's famous "frog eye" headlights. Designed by head designer Herbert Dawley, the unique lights were introduced in 1913. Pierce-Arrow was the first auto maker to integrate the headlights into the fenders.
Established in 1865, in Buffalo, New York, the company's original name was Heinz, Pierce and Munschauer. Products included a wide range of household items, including ice boxes and elegant, gilded birdcages. Pierce bought his partners out in 1896, changed the name to George N. Pierce Company, and added bicycles to the product line.
After an unsuccessful attempt to build a steampowered car, Pierce offered his first four-seat car called the Arrow in early 1903, followed by the larger, more powerful Great Arrow a year later. When the company needed capital, Buffalo wall paper manufacturer, George K. Birge stepped up to the plate, but Pierce and Birge soon found themselves at odds. Tension between the two men grew to the point where, in 1903, Pierce left to concentrate on his Clive Cussler has assembled one of the world's ďŹ nest own line of bicycles and collection of automotive art. The Cussler Museum motorcycles. provides an opportunity for car lovers and Clive's fans to
Pierce-Arrow was also one of the first to fabricate bodies from cast aluminum rather than attaching sheet aluminum to wood framing. Cast in the Aluminum Company of America's Buffalo share his love of these wonderful machines. Renamed the Piercefoundry, the 1/8" thick panels weighed considerably less Arrow Motor Car Company, the firm made the decision than steel, an important consideration in a vehicle with to build larger, more luxurious cars for a clientele who a wheelbase measuring nearly twelve-feet. Rather than demanded the best. A new factory was designed by noted buying a car off the showroom floor, customers were architect Albert Kahn. Covering 1.5 million square able to specify colors, interior materials and accessories. feet, the complex, built on the site of the Pan-American Dawley would often visit a client to discuss their specific Exposition, opened in 1906. Six-cylinder engines prorequests and provide them with renderings of the ducing thirty-six, forty-eight and sixty-six horsepower proposed automobile. were offered in open and closed body styles. Tested on dynamometers for smoothness of operation, the engines During the years they were produced, a total of 100 were known for their robust power and dependability. Model 48s were built. The price tag ranged from $4,850 Fitted with an up-to-date electric starter, the engine's to $6,300, depending on the car's body style, finish quiet running qualities made them a favorite choice for and accoutrements. In an advertisement appearing in a bootleggers. 1916 issue of Country Life in America, the car maker stated, "The men who buy Pierce-Arrow cars are liberal spenders, but shrewd buyers. They ask much, and much is given them." 62
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In 1909, President William Howard Taft ordered two Pierce-Arrows for use on state occasions. Other famous owners included the Shah of Persia, C. W. Post, John D. Rockefeller, Emperor Hirohito of Japan, Tom Mix and Gloria Swanson.
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The mighty Pierce-Arrow, ready for another exciting trek into the wilderness. Albert Schwabacher's classy camper was ďŹ tted with all-weather side curtains, an innovative assortment of compartments for camping gear and chains to provide traction on undeveloped trails
Pierce-Arrow's six-cylinder engines were acknowledged as among the most powerful available in any automobile. There were rare times, however, when the power plants were not up to the task, especially if the car was driven in the rugged Teton Mountains. In this vintage photograph, a pair of sturdy mules have been enlisted to pull the 4,000 lb. vehicle up a steep trail.
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Studebaker gained control of the company in 1928, the same year the iconic helmeted archer made his first appearance on the car's radiators. A year later, a straight-8 was introduced. During the 1930s, PierceArrow produced a luxurious V-12 powered sedan, the ultra-modern streamlined Silver Arrow and a line of travel trailers, but sales were few and far between during the Depression. The company closed its doors in 1938. The original owner of the Cussler Museum's recent acquisition was San Francisco banker Albert Schwabacher. An avid hunter and fisherman, Schwabacher owned the Lost Creek dude ranch, located near Jackson Hole, Wyoming, in the Teton Mountains. Driven by a chauffeur, the Pierce-Arrow was kept at the ranch and used to transport Schwabacher and his guests on hunting and fishing trips in the surrounding area. According to some reports, Schwabacher was "an almost over-dedicated fisherman", and to provide additional room for camping gear the car was ordered without jump seats. The factory-equipped rear-end gear ratio was also replaced by a custom-built unit with a lower gear ratio. A standard Model 48 was capable of reaching seventy miles per hour, but with the retrofitted gears, Schwabacher's would have been lucky to do thirty-five. Since the car spent its years in Wyoming far from paved highways, the ability to climb hills was more important than speed.
The latest addition to the Cussler Museum's outstanding collection -- a Pierce-Arrow Series 4, seven-passenger touring car. The impressive vehicle was purchased in 1916, the year it was built. by California banker, Albert Schwabacher. Fitted with a custom-built "motor home", the car was used on the owner's ranch in the Teton Mountains for decades.
A significant amount of documentation was provided with the car. Photographs show the addition of an early version of a motor home, complete with accommodations for overnight camping. In another photograph, the car is being towed up a mountain by mules. With his chauffeur at the wheel, Schwabacher would ride in the left passenger seat (Pierce-Arrow was one of the last manufacturers to switch to left-hand drive), and gleefully blast the car's electric horn to alert his staff when he returned from his latest trek. After Albert Schwabacher's death in 1963, the car was owned by several collectors, including Pat Craig, a leading Pierce-Arrow connoisseur. After overseeing an exhaustive two-year restoration that returned the car to its original condition, Craig consigned the vehicle to this year's RM auction in Scottsdale, Arizona, where it caught the discriminating eye of Clive Cussler. An outstanding representative of one of the most prestigious automobiles ever produced, the PierceArrow touring car is a distinctive addition to the Cussler Museum's world-class collection. It is doubtful Clive will drive the car to a remote lake for a fishing expedition, but knowing the author's love of adventure, one never knows. 64
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Pierce-Arrow introduced their signature "frog-eye" headlights in 1913. The ďŹ rst automobile manufacturer to integrate the headlights into the fenders, PierceArrow offered the option of conventional drum headlights until 1933, but most customers preferred the modern innovation.
The Cussler Museum is located at 14959 West 69th Avenue in Arvada, Colorado. It is open May thru September, Mondays and Tuesdays only, 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. If you would like more information, the museum can be reached at 303-420-2795 or on the net at www.cusslermueum.com
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A Very Classy Camper
A group photograph from the 1920s. Albert Schwabacher, leaning against the spare tires, used the car at his Lost Creek ranch until the outbreak of World War Two. Stored in a shed until 1963, the weather-beaten town car was sold to Roy Leiske. In 2008, Pierce-Arrow collector and connoisseur, Pat Craig, purchased the car. Under Craig's direction, an exhaustive two-year restoration returned the Pierce-Arrow to showroom condition.
Albert Schwabacher photographed with his Pierce-Arrow Model 48 touring car "motor home." Riding in the passenger seat, Schwabacher delighted in sounding the electric horn when he returned from an expedition.
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& TWO FOR THE PRICE OF ONE If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes The Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces certain to be of interest to collectors and connoisseurs. CHRONOS includes interesting stories about the world of automobiles and racing. Coverage of outstanding museum exhibits, fashion trends, and travel stories all add to the enjoyment and satisfaction of this unique lifestyle magazine.
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If you are familiar with contemporary watch fashion you can’t help but recognize the name 88 RUE DU RHONE, one of Europe’s hottest new watchmakers. The grandsons of legendary watch-industry great, Raymond Weil, Elie and Pierre Bernheim have created some of the
Elie and Pierre Bernheim
most exciting, elegant, and accessible timepieces seen in recent years. We were lucky enough to be able to speak with the Bernheim brothers as they prepared for this years Basel show and to ask them some questions about their exciting company and the beautiful watches they make. “Looking at one of your timepieces it can quickly be seen that you have a well-crafted and engaging new brand - what was its genesis?” Seeing a niche in the watch marketplace for youthful, stylish and value-minded timepieces was the starting point. For centuries, watches have been a timeless statement of style and sophistication; however, in recent years the desire for all things fresh and current makes it nearly impossible for dedicated timepiece lovers to keep up with the array of new styles that are offered each season. Using creativity, Swiss excellence and top-of-the-line designs, 88 RUE DU RHONE offers an innovative type of luxury to a new generation of watch enthusiasts. “What are some of the unique strengths that you are able to bring to bear as a family business coming from such a great watch-making legacy?” We enjoy a terrific heritage of watch making know-how. In addition we have a deep knowledge of the industry inherited from our grandfather, Raymond Weil. Lastly, we have always had an entrepreneurial temperament and a vision that has led us to be very creative and the ability to ascertain what is possible to do.
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45 mm Stainless Steel Engraved – Black/Silver Dial with Silver Arabic Numerals and Stainless steel caseQuartz Chrono WR50/165ft
“One notable and exciting feature of your watches is the fact that they manage to combine the highest level of Swiss watch making with affordable pricing – how important was it to make these timepieces accessible to a wide range of wearers?” To us, this was very important. We wanted to be able to bring to the market elegant, sophisticated, 100% Swiss-made timepieces that possessed both a strong heritage and an easily recognizable identity. The special engraving on the side, the 88 on the crown and all the details and luxury finish give uniqueness to the pieces and are different from our
competitors. Our mid range price niche caters to a large part of the population, and we wanted to offer the best product at the fairest price. We aim to offer savvy consumers a new kind of luxury. “Given your remarkable success in creating a new brand which has made a strong impact on the global luxury watch world, what advice can you offer to young entrepreneurs and watchmakers who hope to break into the watch industry?” Of course, we are sometimes afraid to fail, but taking risks is necessary for success. Always believe in your dreams and your destiny.
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AT DAYTONA
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Photography and Article by, Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor
It is 11:00pm and the annual ďŹ reworks display begins as the cars continue their long journey through the night time hours and into Sunday's ďŹ nish at 3:30pm
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F
or the past few years I have been saying how the crowds have been getting larger each year at this event. 2013 is no exception. Even the SPEED TV announcers made mention of it several times in their long 25 hour live flag to flag broadcast, and that says something to everyone. As I have said in the past the track does not release figures however it was thought that well over 100,000 fans crammed the infield to watch this last race under the Grand Am banner. Early last fall it was announced that there would be a merger in American Sports Car Racing. Yes what everyone has wished for, for a long time. The American LeMans Series will be part of the Grand Am Series starting in 2014, but with a new name yet to be announced at this writing. Could the inevitable merger be the reason for such a huge turn out this year? Could it be that we had one of the most perfect races in terms of weather and really hot action in a long time? Whatever the reasons are, the crowds were intense. Back during “The Roar”, the annual January pre- race test days, I witnessed more fans milling in the paddock and in the infield then I had seen in years. Matter of fact, I made mention to several people that more people attended the test session then I had remembered attending the race itself just five
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it ever! No one would have thought that Grand Am would buy the ALMS but it happened, and the world of sports car racing will be that much better for it. It was a wish of many that America had just one real sports car series to represent itself internationally and now it is about to happen. So coming full circle…could this be one of the reasons the crowd was so huge this year? The first real practice session opened on Thursday morning and I noticed that the parking areas were very well attended. The view through the fencing of the cars entering Nascar turn one as they come off the road course and back onto the massive oval. But by Friday, the general public was already being ushered to park outside of the track. And race day was just insane. One or so years ago! It was astounding to witness and very would think that something was being given away for gratifying for everyone involved. When this series was free inside the gates. The crowds were massive. Wall introduced, back in 1999, skeptics declared with all to wall cars, wall to wall people and everyone wanted kinds of affirmation that Grand Am would last maybe to watch the sessions no matter how long they were a year or two at most. I laughed because I was one or who was racing. This has to be very gratifying to all of the original believers who felt there was substance those who have worked so hard to make this a success here and this was a racing series that catered to many from the very beginning. and would grow substantially in time; and boy did Scott Pruett driving the wheels off his #01 BMW Riley DP early Sunday morning. He and his teammates ultimately won the 51st edition of this grueling classic
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Overall winning Ganassi BMW Riley of Pruett, Rojas, Kimball and Montoya at sunset as it flashes past at speed
This year there were sixteen drivers with Formula One experience entered in the field. First timer and former Ferrari driver Rubens Barrichelo drove a GT Porsche with Indy Car star and best friend, Tony Kanaan and three other Brazilian drivers in an all Brazilian sponsored car, one of two belonging to the Dener Motorsports team. And of course Giancarlo Fisichella and Juan Pablo Montoya added to the bill. With international sports car fame came former Audi and LeMans winner, Frank Biela of Germany, Sebastien Bourdais of France and Bruno Junqueria of Brazil. Add to these drivers, FIA GT champions Marc Basseng, Markus Winkelhock, Stephane Sarrazin, Nelson Piquet, Jr., and the regular Grand Am drivers like Jan Magnussen, Oliver Gavin, Richard Westbrook, Robin Liddell and others. Speaking of which, out of 227 drivers, 69 drivers from 21 countries outside of the United States were represented this year. This is a huge increase over past years and shows the importance of this event and how it is exponentially growing. The car count was not as high overall as it has been but more drivers came from more places and the paid attendance was way up. Another interesting fact is that Continental, the official tire manufacturer/supplier to Grand Am, brought 85 staff members and handled over 200 tires per hour at peak demand. That is impressive for sure all on its own. The racing itself was very exciting. The general consensus is that this is a grueling 24 hour race, much more so than its European counterpart, LeMans, at least for the drivers and teams. I feel that LeMans is much harder on the media especially those
photographing and writing. But the drivers have all said that this is an all-out sprint race covering 24 hours. Time was when the Rolex 24 was very different. The cars were not as well built...meaning they were a lot more fragile than today’s cars. Drivers started with a pace in mind and gradually built up their speed by pushing harder and harder over time as the hours clicked by. Now we have these robust cars that can go fender to fender bumping their way through corners and straights at high speeds flat out from the time the green flag is waved at the 3:30pm Saturday start. It is rather amazing to witness the power surge that lasts 24 hours. The other amazing thing is the crew members who from the lead engineer down to a tire changer or a refueler gets little to no sleep over the entire race. And if they can catch 30 minutes in a row to sleep they consider themselves lucky. Their cars could come in for any reason at any time and they have to be ready and on their toes in order not to make any mistakes that could cost the entire team a chance of winning or placing high up in their class. The noise level as well is something to witness. Should you leave the Speedway and go anywhere within say five miles in the general Daytona area, you can hear the cars all night long very easily. It is a wonder that the locals sleep at all. This incredible phenomenon is something everyone needs to witness. It is as if you have this roar in your ears no matter where in the area you go. Rather amazing stuff. Scoring his fifth overall win in this race was “Iron Man”, Scott Pruett. This ties him with the great Hurley Haywood. Joining Scott on the podium were his regular Grand Am series team mate, Memo Rojas Spring/Summer 2013
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The Burton Racing Porsche GT3 of Jack Baldwin racing nose to nose with the Corsa Michelotto Ferrari 458 on the high banking of Nascar turn four late at night
Rolex Watch USA CEO Stuart Wicht waves the green flag to start the 51st annual Rolex 24 @ Daytona
who has won this event three times, and Rolex 24 team mates, Juan Pablo Montoya and Charlie Kimball. After the race Pruett was quoted as saying, “For me, personally, it's great to be in a category with Hurley without a doubt," said Pruett, who now owns 10 Rolex 24 class victories. "I've been getting so many calls and notes and letters and everything from well-wishers talking about the achievements. “It’s been fun. Some guys have been calling me and they call me Mr. Five-time or Five by Five because we've won five Rolex Sports Car Championships and five overall victories at the Rolex 24. So it's certainly just been incredible for me and incredible working with the Ganassi organization, specifically Chip. He's a hardcore competitor. He gives you the very best he can in the way of people and support and cars and equipment and that is nothing short to help you get to each and every one of those achievements." Hurley himself had mixed emotions several days after the race thinking that he almost wished Scott had not tied him, but then again Pruett now has to win at least one more to take the all-time lead away from him. Hurley said that Pruett deserved it all as he is a true champion in and out. Scott and the boys ran one of two Chip Ganassi BMW powered Riley DP’s. In second place in the Daytona Prototype class was The Wayne Taylor Chevrolet Corvette Rile team with drivers Max Angelleli and regular team mate, Jordan Taylor along with in this race only, Ryan Hunter-Reay. And in third place was the Michael Shank Ford powered Rile DP with drivers: John Pew and Oswaldo Negri as full season pilots joined in this race with A.J Almendinger, Justin Wilson and Marcos Ambrose. In the GT class, the overall win went to the Audi R8 of Filipe Albuquergue, Oliver Jarvis, Edoardo Mortara and Damien Faulkner in the Weather-Tech sponsored white machine. Second place was secured by another Audi R8, APR Motorsport team with Frank Stippler, Rene Rast, Ian Bass and Marc Basseng sharing the driving
Preutt and Rojas enter Victory lane aglow with their crew members, atop their winning car to the throngs of fans, media, and photographers
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duties. And pulling up third was The AIM Autosport FXDD Ferrari 458 of Emilio Assentato, Nick Longhi, Anthony Lazzaro and Mark Wilken. In the newest class, GX, the Porsche Cayman of former Rolex 24 winner David Donohue, Jim Norman, Shane Lewis, and Nelson Canache taking the overall win for this newest addition to the Grand Am classifications. The margin of victory this year was a mere 21.922 seconds in the Daytona prototype and1.476 in the GT class. The average speed for the DP’s was 105.122mph and 100.518 in the GT class and 94.068 in the new GX class. Overall there were 16 cautions for a total of 121 laps. Rolex was ever present in person and signage and as always very generous to all including the vast media for whom they provided a scrumptious cocktail party/ dinner right before the Thursday evening practice session. I tried to figure out the number of watches they gave to the winners in terms of how many each of the winners has already received over the years...but it is way too many to count. And at the Friday evening Rolex dinner, the honored guest was this year’s Grand Marshall, recently retired from racing, Hurley Haywood. Rolex presented him with a magnificent special one off Daytona Chronograph trimmed in gold and no matter how hard I tried to convince Hurley he owned enough already and that he should part with that one to me, he would not budge. If this year saw close competition and many new drivers, wait until 2014 with an entirely new race combining two great sports car series into one huge package that promises to be spectacular at the very least. Isn’t it time you joined us for this incredible event that will thrill you, and take you away from your daily routine for a couple of days of intense racing, loud engines making great music and the sheer fun of a 24 hour race? Come and find out for yourself next January 2014.
Rolex Watch USA CEO Stuart Wicht presents five time winner Scott Pruett with his engraved Daytona Chronograph
The winning team showing off their hardware-R: Rolex Watch USA Stuart Wicht, Scott Pruett, Memo Rojas, Charlie Kimball, and Juan Pablo Montoya
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Museum Watch WHitney MuseuM of AMeriCAn Art, neW yorK Jay DeFeo: A Retrospective through June 2 This definitive collection of the work of DeFeo, who was part of the 1950s Beat community in San Francisco, includes her twelve-foot-tall painting The Rose, which she worked on for eight years, and many other works from her four-decade career. tHe MetropolitAn MuseuM of Art, neW yorK Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity through May 27 Delving into the role of fashion in the work of the Impressionists, this exhibition focuses on eight major figure paintings and how they relate to costumes, accessories, patterns, prints, and photographs from the period, all of which are also on display. MuseuM of tHe City of neW yorK Making Room: New Models for Housing New Yorkers through September 15 Seeking to highlight better ways of accommodating the rising number of solo dwellers in the city, this exhibition showcases innovative space-conscious designs, including a full-sized model of a micro-studio apartment and numerous small-scale models and drawings.
Whitney Museum: Jay DeFeo, The Rose, 1958–66, oil with wood and mica on canvas, 128 7/8 × 92 1/4 × 11 in. © 2012 The Jay DeFeo Trust / Artists Rights Society (ARS). Photograph by Ben Blackwell.
tHe BArnes foundAtion, pHilAdelpHiA Ellsworth Kelly: Sculpture on the Wall May 4 – September 2 Demonstrating Kelly's interests in the intersection of art and architecture, as well as color and form, this exhibition is anchored by Sculpture for a Large Wall, a monumental work of monochromatic colors and geometric forms. nAtionAl gAllery of Art, WAsHington, dC Albrecht Durer: Master Drawings, Watercolors, and Prints from the Albertina through June 9 Often considered the greatest German artist, Albrecht Dürer produced influential paintings, drawings, watercolors, engravings, and woodcuts, many of which are held by the Albertina in Vienna. In this exhibition, 118 works from that museum's collection are joined by nineteen from the Gallery. 82
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National Gallery of Art: Albrecht Dürer, Innsbruck Castle Court with Clouds, 1496 or later, watercolor and gouache over a faint line drawing, 13 1/8 x 10 1/4 in. Albertina, Vienna.
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High Museum, Atlanta Frieda and Diego: Passion, Politics, and Painting through May 12 This presentation of 120 paintings and drawing by the renown artistic couple captures their shared passion for each other and for the Mexican revolutionary culture of the 1920s and 1930s. Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago Destroy the Picture: Painting the Void, 1949-1962 through June 2 This exhibition covers the worldwide, postwar trend of artists literally destroying the painting canvas as part of their art, a response to the physical and psychological destruction wrought by World War II. The J. Paul Getty Museum
High Museum: Frida Kahlo, Autorretrato como Tehuana (Diego en mi Pensamiento), translation: Self-Portrait as Tehuana (Diego in My Thoughts), 1943, oil on masonite, The Jacques and Natasha Gelman Collection of Mexican Art. © 2012 Banco de México Diego Rivera Frida Kahlo Museums Trust, Mexico, D. F. / ARS.
Overdrive: L.A. Constructs the Future April 9 – July 21 Charting the evolution of Los Angeles during the twentieth century, this exhibition draws on various media to provide a view of the region's diverse urban landscape, including its whimsical architecture, modernist residences, and ambitious freeway network. San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Garry Winogrand through June 2 Winogrand, considered by some to be the photographer of his generation, captured moments of everyday American life in the postwar years. This exhibition includes well-known highlights from his career as well as over 100 photographs printed and displayed for the first time. Seattle Art Museum Morality Tales: American Art and Social Protest, 1935-45 through May 5 This exhibition looks at the work of artists who, during the volatile years of the Great Depression and World War II, channeled their moral outrage into socially and politically engaged art.
MCA Chicago: Yves Klein, Untitled Fire Painting (F 27 I), 1961. © Yves Klein, ADAGP, Paris.
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Inside Grand Canyon 10 mile hike to Navajo, Havasu & Mooney Falls located in the south rim on the Supai Indian Reservation Article and Photography by: Raj Walia – Paparaji Photography
Hualapai Hilltop, the starting point for the 8 mile hike to the Havasupai Indian Villiage descending 3,000 feet (910 m) in elevation
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H
avasupai is a term that translates to people of the blue and green (turquoise) waters. Havasu Falls is a gorgeous oasis in a remote part of the Grand Canyon. It is fairly diďŹƒcult to reach by foot and requires a drive to Hualapai Hilltop followed by a 10 mile hike to the Falls. You travel through the tiny village of Supai which is 2 miles from the falls. For those not up to the long hike, a helicopter ride to Supai can be a good option, followed up by a
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As you make your way down, the canyon walls draw closer and the surroundings become more grand
The way leads to the heli-pad and the town square. There is also a restaurant and the general store
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The Havasupai Bible church in the villiage
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The helicopter at the bottom of the Canyon where it picks the visitors and drop them back at Hualapai Hilltop
Havasu horses and vegetation at the bottom of the canyon. Water tanks above the village, supplying water pressure for plumbing
Continue hiking past the village, you will see the first two amazing waterfalls that were created when the flood in 2008 changed the course of the creek. They’re temporarily named New Navajo Falls and Rock Falls, but the Tribe will decide their official names. Unfortunately the old Navajo Falls, a favorite among visitors, is now extinct due to the flood. But the newly created Rock Falls offers ample swimming and photo opportunities Rock Falls / Lower Navajo Waterfall
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Havasu Falls is a picturesque waterfall of magical blue-green water that hurls itself off the edge of the jagged red rocks into a sparkling pool of turquoise water below – and all this in the middle of a desert
horseback ride to the falls. You will need to purchase an entry permit, and, unless you're a hardcore trail runner, book a night at the Havasupai Lodge or campsite. The trail starts with a steep descent down the face of the box canyon to the valley floor by way of a series of switchbacks. Once you reach the valley floor, the trail bends to the north for 8 miles into the Indian town of Supai. Along the way, the canyon walls draw closer and the surroundings become more grand. You get a sense of the true size of the canyon walls hundreds of feet straight up as you make your way down the canyon. At the end of the slot section, which starts at about 7 mile you will hear the water for the first time. It comes into view as you enter the heavier vegetation. The town of Supai is nearby. Stop by at the Supai Post Office to mail yourself the postcard as it is the only one of the two in the US that still moves the mail by mule. Follow the trail through town as it leads past a few ranch properties and begins the descent along the creek to the falls. Navajo Falls is about a 200 foot wide wall where there are bunches of thin falls interspersed with tons of green vines hanging down the wall. Havasu falls, about a half mile from Navajo Falls, and less than half mile above the campground, is a gigantic waterfall that falls into a beautiful pool of blue water. Mooney falls is bigger than the Havasu falls and is only accessable by climbing down the side of the canyon next to the falls. You have to climb down through two caves and down some “steps” that have chains next to them to hold on to. This is somewhat of a scary climb, because the steps are wet due to the mist of the falls. A must go trip for hikers, adventurors and waterfall lovers.
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To get to the bottom of the Mooney falls, you must cling to the chain and various handholds and walk down the canyon wall
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Mooney falls is actually on the edge of a rock wall and the only way to reach Mooney Falls is to climb through narrow tunnels dug into the rock. You have to carefully climbed through the tunnels and on the other side reached a large metal chain that is strung down the canyon wall. Next you reach a regular ladder leaning against the wall and once you get to the bottom, you’re standing in front of a 200 foot waterfall surrounded by blue green pools of water
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AM
D
WATCH G CAN UI I L ER
The following watch retailers, listed by geographic location, are members of the American Watch Guild. They are among the select fine watch professionals devoted to the highest standards of product and service. Customers can be assured that these watch retailers are authorized agents of the watch manufacturer and are equipped with genuine replacement parts enabling them to provide competent aftersales service. Their standard of excellence sets them apart in the fine watch industry. ALABAMA
Colorado
Mountain Brook
Denver
Barton-Clay Jewelers
Hyde Park Jewelers
Arizona
Connecticut
Phoenix
Glastonbury
Hyde Park Jewelers
Scottsdale
Greenwich
E.D. Marshall Jewelers California
Beverly Hills David Orgell
Burlingame Kern Jewelers Topper Fine Jewelers
Laguna Hills Swiss Watch Gallery
Los Angeles Chong Hing Jewelers
Milpitas Chong Hing Jewelers
Newport Beach Traditional Jewelers
Palm Desert Leeds & Son Jewelers
Rowland Heights Chong Hing Jewelers
San Francisco Shapur Shreve & Co.
San Gabriel Chong Hing Jewelers
Santa Clara Chong Hing Jewelers
Santa Cruz Dell Williams, Inc.
West Hollywood Westime
Lux Bond & Green Lux Bond & Green Manfredi Jewelers, Ltd.
Hartford Armstrong Rockwell Lux Bond & Green
New Haven Savitt Jewelers
South Windsor Lux Bond & Green
Uncasville Lux Bond & Green
West Hartford Lux Bond & Green
Westport Lux Bond & Green District of Columbia
Washington, DC Tiny Jewel Box Florida
Aventura King Jewelers
Belleair Bluffs Harold Freeman Jewelers
Coconut Grove H & H Jewels
Fort Lauderdale Levinson Jewelers
Palm Beach Hamilton Jewelers
Palm Beach Gardens Hamilton Jewelers St. Petersburg Hess Fine Art
Tampa Avant Gold Jewelers
Weston Weston Jewelers Illinois
Addison Razny Jewelers
Chicago Geneva Seal Marshall Pierce & Co.
Highland Park Razny Jewelers
Oak Brook C. D. Peacock Indiana
Ft. Wayne Bradley Gough Diamonds
Indianapolis Reis-Nichols Iowa
Sioux City Gunderson’s Jewelers Louisiana
Baton Rouge Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry Massachusetts
Andover Royal Jewelers
Boston Lux Bond & Green Shreve, Crump & Low
Chestnut Hill David & Co.
Framingham Barmakian Jewelers
Peabody De Scenza Diamonds
Stoneham The Watchmaker
Wellesley Lux Bond & Green Michigan
West Bloomfield Dion’s World of Watches Minnesota
Edina Scheherazade
Minneapolis J. B. Hudson
St. Louis Park Continental Diamond Mississippi
Ridgeland Sollberger Watches, Clocks & Jewelry Missouri
Clayton Simons Jewelers
Kansas City Meierotto’s Jewelry Nebraska
Omaha Borsheim’s Nevada
Las Vegas Ca’d’Oro Horologio Hyde Park Las Vegas
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WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES Visit us on the web at: www.americanwatchguild.com
When you visit one of our Guild Stores listed below, please ask for your complimentary copy of How To Buy A Watch and The Care and Service of Fine Watches.
New Hampshire
Garden City H. L. Gross & Bro. Jewelers
Nashua Barmakian Jewelers
Huntington
New Jersey
Cliffside Park
Maddaloni Jewelers
Manhasset London Jewelers
D’Amore Jewelers
Cranford
New Rochelle T & R Jewelers
Martin Jewelers
Jersey City
New York Cellini
Diamond Hut Jewelers
Lawrenceville
Wempe Jewelers William Barthman Jewelers
Hamilton Jewelers
Livingston George Press Fine Jewelers
Rochester Cornell’s Jewelers
Morristown Braunschweiger Jewelers
Mann’s Jewelers
Scarsdale
Princeton Hamilton Jewelers
Red Bank Hamilton Jewelers
Somers Point Bernie Robbins Jewelers
Westwood LaViano Jewelers New Mexico
Wilson & Son Jewelers North Carolina
Charlotte Fink's Jewelers
Durham Fink's Jewelers
Greensboro Fink's Jewelers
Winston-Salem Windsor Jewelers
Albuquerque Butterfield Jewelers New York
North Dakota
Fargo Royal Jewelers, Inc.
Bayside Alicia’s Jewelers
Brooklyn Simpson Jewelers William Barthman Jewelers
East Hampton London Jewelers
Ohio
Canton Gasser Jewelers
Cleveland Alson Jewelers
Toledo Harold Jaffe Jewelers
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Oklahoma
El Paso Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry & Watches
Oklahoma City B. C. Clark Jewelers Samuel Gordon Jewelers Pennsylvania
Frisco Markham Fine Jewelers
Houston
Exton
I. W. Marks Jewelers Zadok Jewelers
Benari Jewelers
Sugarland
Mars
I. W. Marks Jewelers
Casa D’Oro Jewelers
Newtown Bernie Robbins Jewelers
Pittsburgh
Virginia
Dulles Fink's Jewelers
Henne Jewelers
McLean
Scranton
Fink’s Jewelers
Boccardo Jewelers
Norfolk
St. Davids Bernie Robbins Jewelers
Fink's Jewelers
Richmond
Rhode Island
Fink's Jewelers
Barrington
Schwarzschild Jewelers
Thomas B. Gray Jewelers South Carolina
Greenville Geiss & Sons South Dakota
Sioux Falls Gunderson’s Jewelers Tennessee
Nashville King Jewelers Texas
Amarillo Duncan & Boyd
Dallas deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry Neiman Marcus
Washington
Seattle Turgeon-Raine Caribbean
Bahamas John Bull, Nassau Quantum Duty Free, Nassau
Netherland Antilles Freeport Duty Free, Curacao Freeport Jewelry & Gifts, Curacao
Virgin Islands Jewels, St. Thomas Royal Caribbean, St. Thomas Trident Jewels & Time, St. Thomas
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Watch Collector CHAUMET ATRAPE-MOI The spider (hour hand) chases the bee (minute hand) around the dial on Chaumet’s Atrape-Moi ... Si Tu M’Aimes (Catch me if you can) watch. The spider and bee are mounted on two rails that rotate inside the grooves of the spider’s web. The spider is sculpted in pink gold, and the diamond-studded bee points to the minutes with the tip of its wing. The dial is composed of a web with 43 panels of inlaid mother-of-pearl marquetry, with diamonds set into alternating panels. The movement, the CP12V-XII automatic, was created exclusively for Chaumet.
Chaumet www.chaumet.com
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TORIC QUAESTOR LABYRINTHE The dial of this minute repeater is designed as a tribute to the labyrinth in Greek mythology, in which the Minotaur was captured. The in-house manual winding movement PF357 includes a reinforcement to steady the mechanism, ensuring that the sound reverberates optimally. It also has an innovative flywheel regulator which, apart from ensuring a constant supply of energy to the spring, clarifies the sound so that there is less humming evident from the movement. It also activates a safety catch to prevent damage while setting. The labyrinth motif is created by layering an openworked white gold piece over a background of Burmese jade. Parmigiani Fleurier 305-260-7770 www. Parmigiani.ch
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Watch Collector
VACHERON CONSTANTIN FLORILÈGE Vacheron Constantin 877-862-7555 855-729-1755 www.vacheron-constantin.com
From the Metiers d’Art collection, the Florilège is a trio of watches inspired by The Temple of Flora, a book of botanical illustrations written in 1799 by botanist/explorer Robert John Thornton. The dials of the watches combine the artistic crafts of guillochage, gem-setting and grand feu cloisonné enamel dials. Flowers depicted include the South African Strelitzia, the Virgin’s Lily and the China Limodoron. The watches are fitted with mechanical manual winding movements and are crafted according to Geneva Hallmark standards. The bezels are set with either round or baguette-cut diamonds.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER GRANDE TRADITION GYROTOURBILLON 3 Jaeger-LeCoultre’s prestigious Gyrotourbillon 3 consists of two cages that keep the movement in double motion. One cage makes a rotation every minute and the other, inside the first cage, rotates every 24 seconds. The result is a threedimensional dance that gives the impression of a whirling dervish spinning in mid air. This is a flying tourbillon, thus the absence of an upper bridge provides a clear view of the mechanism. The watch is also a chronograph, with minutes uniquely displayed digitally in a window at left. Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
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Watch Collector CARTIER CALIBRE CHRONOGRAPH This watch contains the 1904-CH MC, the brand’s first in-house chronograph caliber. The self-winding column-wheel chronograph movement is powered by two barrels, and is fitted with a vertical coupling that allows the traditional jumps of the seconds hand to be eliminated during start and stop actions. Design highlights include the signature outsized Roman numeral at XII, and elegantly placed pushers that are integrated into the crown reinforcement. Cartier 1 800-CARTIER www.cartier.com
ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR QUATUOR The Quatour is so named for its four sprung balances that work in pairs to compensate immediately for the rate variations caused by the changes in position. What the tourbillon achieves during the course of a minute, the Excalibur Quatuor achieves instantly. As each balance oscillates four times per second, the frequency of the watch is multiplied by four as the balances do not oscillate simultaneously. Accuracy is further ensured by five differentiels. Three of them link the balances in the gear train, one on the center-wheel and the two others on the third wheel, providing an average of the positions, resulting in uncompromising accuracy. The watch is made of lightweight durable silicon with 18k pink gold elements. Roger Dubuis 888-738-2847 www.rogerdubuis.com
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Watch Collector FRANCK MULLER TOURBILLON RAPIDE Franck Muller has created the world’s fastest tourbillon escapement. Powered by four barrels, the tourbillon cage makes one full rotation every five seconds on a ceramic ball bearing. This translates to 12 rotations per minute, making it 12 times faster than the average tourbillon available in the market today. The manual-winding movement, patented by Franck Muller, has a power reserve of 60 hours, and is finished with a combination of engraving, rhodium plating and hand beveling. It has 231 components and 29 jewels. The Curvex case is 18k gold and the strap is hand-sewn alligator. Franck Muller 212-463-8898 www.franckmuller.com
A. LANGE & SÖHNE GRAND COMPLICATION This is the most complicated and exclusive of the brand’s timepieces. The watch includes a chiming mechanism with grand and small strike, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph with minute counter and flying seconds as well as a perpetual calendar with moonphase display. The chiming mechanism automatically indicates the time in the grand strike (grand sonnerie) or small strike (petite sonnerie) modes. The chiming mechanism is powered by one of a total of three mainspring barrels. The chronograph is a monopusher type with a rattrapante function and flying seconds. The watch is limited to six pieces. A. Lange & Söhne 800-408-8147 www.alange-sohne.com
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As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers. Please mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call. ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF GRENON’s OF NEWPORT 210 Bellevue Avenue Newport, RI 02840 Tel: 401-846-0598 www.grenons.com BELL & ROSS 605 Lincoln Road, Ste. 300 Miami Beach, FL 33139 Tel: 786-454-9730 Tel: 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com BERTOLUCCI 2000 Ponce de Leon Blvd. # 641 Coral Gables, FL. 33134 Tel: 855-461-4919 www.bertolucci-watches.com BRAUN AMEICO, INC. 1 Church St. New Milford, CT 06776 Tel: 888-350-8765 www.ameico.com CARL F. BUCHERER 1805 South Metro Pkwy. Dayton, OH 45459 Tel: 800-395-4306 Tel: 937-291-4366 www.carl-f-bucherer.com
CITIZEN 1200 Wall Street West Lyndhurst, NJ 07071 Tel: 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com
LOUIS VUITTON 19 East 57th Street New York, NY 10022 Tel: 866-Vuitton www.louisvuitton.com
ROLEX WATCH USA 665 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com
EDIFICE 570 Mt. Pleasant Ave. Dover, NJ 07801 Tel: 973-361-5400 www.edifice.casio.com
LUMINOX LUMONDI 2301 Kerner Blvd., Ste. A San Rafael, CA 94901 Tel: 415-455-9500 www.luminox.com
88 RUE DU RHONE 635 Madison Ave., 6 Fl. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-737-8882 www.88rdr.com
ERNEST BOREL 76 Littleton Road Chelmsford, MA 01824 Tel: 877-566-1824 www.ernestborel.ch GREENWICH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE Tel: 203-618-0460 www.greenwichconcours.com HERMES 55 East 59th Street New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-835-6417 www.hermes.com JACOB & CO. Tel: 877-70-JACOB Tel: 212-719-5887 www.jacobandco.com
BULGARI Tel: 800-BULGARI www.Bulgari.com
JAEGER-LeCOULTRE 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
CHANEL 15 East 57th St. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-715-4100 www.chanel.com
JCK LAS VEGAS www.jckonline.com/lasvegas
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JORG GRAY Tel: 877-547-4438 www.jorggray.com
Spring/Summer 2013
MAURICE LACROIX 103 Carnegie Center, Ste. 300 Princeton, NJ 08540 Tel: 609-375-2293 www.MauriceLacroix.com MONTEGRAPPA Tel: 516-741-0011 www.montegrappa.com www.kenroindustries.com MTM SPECIAL OPS WATCH 1225 South Grand Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90015 Tel: 213-765-0765 www.specialopswatch.com PIAGET 645 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com PORSCHE DESIGN Chartpak Luxury Brands Tel: 800-628-1910 Tel: 561-470-6925 www.chartpak.com www.porsche-design.com RAYMOND WEIL 635 Madison Ave., 6 Fl. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-355-3350 www. raymond-weil.com
STRUT LAUNCHPORT Tel: 949-369-9126 www.strutlaunchport.com SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Tel: 877-FLY-SWISS www.swiss.com TAVANNES P. O. Box 85 Valencia, PA 16059 Tel: 412-600-4240 www.tavanneswatches.com TW STEEL TEMPUS GROUP 233 Post Street, Ste. 200 San Francisco, CA 94108 Tel: 415-732-7979 www.twsteel.com VACHERON CONSTANTIN Tel: 877-862-7555 Tel: 855-729-1755 www.vacheron-constantin.com WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com
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Atacama Field Chronograph No. 1945: 45mm, black PVD steel case, screw case back and screw down crown, antireflective sapphire crystal, water resistant to 100 meters, alarm feature, golden tan distressed leather strap with black PVD buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of automotive enthusiasts.
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FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR
Spring/Summer 2013
In 1839, Vacheron Constantin created the famous pantograph, a mechanical device allowing for principal watchmaking components to be reproduced with total precision. Elevating the quality of its timepieces even further, this invention, which also revolutionized Swiss watchmaking, would propel the brand into the future.
Faithful to the history upon which its reputation is built, Vacheron Constantin endeavours to maintain, repair and restore all watches it has produced since its founding: a sign of excellence and confidence, which continues to elevate the brand’s name and stature.
$6.95
Patrimony Contemporaine Perpetual Calendar
SPRING/SUMMER 2013
Hallmark of Geneva, pink-gold case, ultra-slim mechanical movement with automatic winding, calibre 1120 QP, moon phases. Reference: 43175/000R -9687
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Rolex 24 at Daytona Clive Cussler Museum Audubon The Birds of America Graff Puts the Sparkle in Watchmaking The Watercolors of John Singer Sargent
Hermès in movement 4/9/13 2:29 PM