Chronos 107

For the CuriouS, the ColleCtor and the ConnoiSSeur

winter/Spring w winter/Spring i n t e r / S p r i n2014 2g2014 014 $6.95 $6.95

winter/Spring 2014 •

number one hundred Seven

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rolex rolex rolex 24 24 24 aa window window windowof ofof time time time the thegalapagos galapagos galapagos Simeone Simeone Simeone Foundation Foundation Foundation automotive automotive automotive museum museum museum of ofofracing racing racing Sports Sports Sports Cars CarsCars

hermès hermès hermès arceau arceau arceau lift liftlift

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SXC Steel SXC SXCGMT Steel SteelGMT No. GMT 5127: No. No.45.5mm, 5127: 5127:45.5mm, 45.5mm, black black PVD blackplated PVD PVDplated plated stainless stainless stainless steel case, steel steelscrew case, case,screw down screwdown crown downcrown crown & case&&back, case caseback, back, anti-refl anti-refl anti-refl ectiveective ective sapphire sapphire sapphire crystal,crystal, crystal, stainless stainless stainless steel bidirectional steel steel bidirectional bidirectional rotating rotating rotating bezel,bezel, bezel, GMT GMT function GMT function function for second for for second second time time time zone, zone, genuine zone, genuine genuine black black leather black leather leather strap strap with strapred with with contrast red red contrast contrast stitching stitching stitching and red and and lining, red red lining, lining, black black PVD blacksignature PVD PVD signature signature buckle,buckle, buckle, water water resistant waterresistant resistant to 200toto meters, 200 200meters, meters, and Luminox and andLuminox Luminox self-powered self-powered self-powered illumination. illumination. illumination.

Swiss Swiss Made.

SwissMade.

Made.

Preferred Preferred Preferred timepiece timepiece timepiece of SXC of ofAstronauts SXC SXCAstronauts Astronauts and Test and andPilots.

Test TestPilots.

Pilots.

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www.luminox.com www.luminox.com www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox facebook.com/Luminox facebook.com/Luminox

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Winter/Spring 2014

No. 107

6

52

Editor's Outline

Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum of Racing Sports Cars

by Stuart Leuthner

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High Watchmaking Previews 2014

News

58

Page 36

18 Previews

Raymond Loewy’s Locomotives For the Pennsylvania Railroad

by Stuart Leuthner

Page 58

Streamlined Iron

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65

Hermès Going Up?

by Carol Besler

Early American Guitars The Instruments of C. F. Martin at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

by Andrew Siskind

36 High Watchmaking Previews of 2014

68 Rolex 24 And the Times They are a Changin’

by Denis L. Tanney

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American Classics Early American Guitars

Citizen Times the World

by Carol Besler

46 Babe Ruth’s Championship Watch at Heritage Auctions

by Stuart Leuthner

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Page 65

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78 A Window of Time The Galapagos

by Carl E. Rosen

at Daytona

Page 68

94 Watch Collector

CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the February/March issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557

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Editor'S Outline

Our staff at Chronos is looking forward to Baselworld 2014 where manufacturers debut limited editions and new creations. Our coverage of these exciting newly-arrived concepts will appear in our next issues.

We will post daily on the Internet directly from the fair so look for us on www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com.

Forever innovative in its adaptations of visual stimulation, Hermès has once again created a new watch. Named the Hermès Arceau Lift, this watch is uniquely inspired by the architecture of the Hermès Boutique at 24, Rue du Fauborg Saint Honore in Paris. See the story page 32.

The passage of time has a profound effect on the condition and value of objects, as well as on matters, proceedings, performances and the course of events. Time is not always measured by a look at a watch dial or at any of the current instruments available to us today.

A Window of Time - The Galapagos detailed on page 78 takes us back to Charles Darwin’s visit to the Galapagos Islands in 1835. In a very short visit, only 19 days, he was able to solidify his hypothesis of evolution and survival of the fittest. Time in the very broadest sense is demonstrated by the various species that survived on these islands from the prehistoriclooking giant tortoises and iguanas to the sea lions and penguins.

The Spirit of Competition on page 52 is an article about an award-winning collection.

Racing Sports Cars describes Dr. Fred Simeone’s collection located in Philadelphia. Known as the Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum, this is a venue where the cars in the collection can be enjoyed by the public in an environment reflecting their history and racing heritage. In Dr. Simeone’s words “…here you can learn how racing improves the breed. You can see the evolution of the racecar as the result of seven decades of the spirit of completion.”

As a final salute to the passage of time and as a vibrant description of the Rolex 24 see our story on page 68. A lively detailing of the celebration of two great sports series being brought together into one new wonderful large series, the Rolex 24 was the official launch of the TUDOR United Sports Car Series sponsored by Rolex Watch USA.

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hermès. time reinvented.

arceau le temps suspendu la montre hermès reinvents time and sets it to the tempo of your desires. press on the pushbutton and suspend time. beneath the dial, time continues to run within the heart of the mechanism. another push on the button sets the date and hands running again. time resumes its march, and you the course of your day. this exclusive hermès calibre is a world première.

1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com

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news Glashütte Original goes to the movies As a partner of the Berlinale Film Festival, the largest cultural event in the German capital, Glashütte Original supported the Retrospective, the section of the Festival that brings films from all over the world back to the silver screen, and frames contemporary cinema within a historical context. The Retrospective, entitled ‘‘Aesthetics of Shadow’’, is the second film program curated together with the Museum of Modern Art. Since 2012, together with the ‘‘Perspektive Deutsches Kino’’ section of the festival, Glashütte Original has awarded the ‘‘Made in Germany Perspektive Fellowship‘‘ in support of talented young German directors. Thanks to the cooperation with the Museum of Modern Art the series of films will also be shown in New York in April 2014. During the exciting festival days in February, Glashütte Original offered a very special quiet zone: The exclusive Glashütte Original Lounge on the 24th floor of the Kollhoff Tower.

Winter/Spring 2014

No. 107

PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind Watch & Jewelry Editor Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher PHOTOGRAPHY Keiko Makishima TECHNICAL WRITER David Christianson AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com

Glashütte Original is a sponsor of the Berlinale Film Festival.

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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557.

Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.

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L

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22443 Ch

Schaumburg Watch Ice Crystal

The L.U.C Collection Each part is a masterpiece

The L.U.C Quattro is equipped with four independent barrels stacked in pairs and totalling a full 1.8 metres of spring. This patented mechanism ensures an exceptional nine-day power reserve and above all, amazing precision. Like every component in the L.U.C Calibre 98.01-L, each barrel is hand-decorated and finished by the artisans at Chopard Manufacture. The L.U.C Quattro houses a movement that is chronometercertified by the COSC and bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.

L . U . C Q U AT T R O

N e w Yo r k - B a l H a r b o u r S h o p s South Coast Plaza - Las Vegas 1 . 8 0 0 . C H O PA R D E x p l o r e t h e c o l l e c t i o n a t U S . C H O PA R D . C O M

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Frisco, TX p:(214)494-4241

Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684

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news Audemars Piguet protects Royal Oak Audemars Piguet has been awarded $9.8-million in damages in a lawsuit against Swiss Watch International which operates the worldofwatches.com website. The United States District Court for the Southern District of New York found that Audemars Piguet has valid trademark rights in its Royal Oak watch design that such rights were infringed by the defendants’ sales of Swiss Legend Trimix Diver watches with a very similar design and that defendants have engaged in act of unfair competition. The Court awarded the full amount of the defendants’ profits, and trebled them for bad-faith conduct and allows Audemars Piguet to apply for an award of its attorney’s fees and costs of suit. It also entered an injunction forbidding the defendants from further dealings in the infringing watch products.

Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henry Bennahmias comments, “The Royal Oak was the first of its kind, and 40 years later, it remains unmatched amongst prestige sport watches. We are fully committed to enforcing our rights in the Royal Oak design and insist our trademarks be fully respected.

We owe it to Audemars Piguet, and the founders’ families.”

The iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

Cate Blanchett wins in Chopard Cate Blanchett, Golden Globe Winner for Best Actress wore earrings from Chopard’s Green Carpet Collection at the awards ceremony. The 18k white gold earrings are set with 11 carats of marquise-cut diamonds, set in a laurel design. Blanchette also wore a platinum line bracelet set with 35 carats of white diamonds, and a 6 carat diamond ring. The gold in this jewelry is Fairmined gold, from artisanal gold mines in South America. The diamonds are certified non-conflict diamonds. Partnering with Green Carpet Challenge, Chopard has embarked on an ambitious program of sustainable change entitled The Journey that will set new environmental and social standards for jewelry. Chopard has developed a partnership with NGO, Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM).

Cate Blanchett wore jewelry from Chopard’s Green Carpet Collection.

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news Jaeger-LeCoultre plays polo The 120th Argentine Polo Open of Palermo, held in Buenos Aires in the fall, was sponsored by JaegerLeCoultre, which was also the official timekeeper. The tournament, together with the Tortugas Open and the Hurlingham, is one of the most spectacular and eagerly awaited fixtures on the annual polo calendar.

“The Reverso is the watch that means Polo,” says polo player Eduardo Novillo Astrada, a Jaeger-LeCoultre Ambassador. “For me there is no other watch that is more related to polo. I am very lucky to wear my Jaeger-LeCoultre Squadra: it helps me not to be late! I share several values with Jaeger-LeCoultre: team work, passion, elegance – and for me most importantly of all, a family atmosphere.”

Jaeger-LeCoultre is the official sponsor of the 120th Argentine Polo Open of Palermo.

Eduardo Novillo Astrada, Clare Milford Haven and Luke Tomlinson in the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth during the finals of the Argentine Polo Open of Palermo.

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©2013 movado group, inc.

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news Levinson Jewelers hosts jazz performance Levinson Jewelers of Fort Lauderdale hosted a private dinner party with a special performance by “Kenny Loggins Blue Sky Riders” singer Georgia Middleman. The evening raised awareness for Jazz Aspen Snowmass, an organization whose mission is to present and preserve jazz and related forms of music through world-class festivals, performances and education programs.

Part-time Aspen residents and owners of Levinson Jewelers, Mark & Robin Levinson are passionate about Jazz Aspen Snowmass. They are active supporters and regularly attend their events.

“Georgia is an amazing musician and person,” says Robin Levinson. “We first saw her perform with Kenny Loggins and their band in Aspen at a JAS event, and knew we wanted to share her gift with friends in South Florida.”

Mark Levinson, Lori Wellins, Dr. Jeff Baumann & Steve Wellins.

Lori Mason, Robin Levinson, Nancy Baumann.

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Georgia Middleman performs at Levinson Jewelers of Fort Lauderdale.

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©2013 movado group, inc.

Movado/Imtech mg003805a Proof 1

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MOVADO TC™ ULTRA-THIN CASE DESIGN IN STAINLESS STEEL WITH MODERN BLACK DIAL. MOVADO.COM

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news Hublot teams with Nets for watch lovers’ dinner Hublot chairman Jean-Claude Biver and Brooklyn Nets coach Jason Kidd recently hosted a night out at Brooklyn’s Barclays Center, home of the Nets basketball team. The event was a dinner attended by watch fans, TimeZone members, “Hublotistas” and many fellow watch executives who attended as friends of Biver’s. It was also an opportunity to premiere Hublot’s newest watches in the U.S., including the Big Bang Unico All Black, Big Bang Dark Jeans, Big Bang Ferrari and the Classic Fusion Night Out Tourbillon. The MP-05 LaFerrari – with 50 days of power reserve, which is the World Record – also made a stateside appearance.

The relationship between Hublot and the Barclays Center began when the state-of-the-art building opened its doors in 2012, becoming the new home of the Brooklyn Nets. The partnership makes Hublot the Official Timekeeper and Watch of both Barclay’s and the Nets. The building boasts over 100 oversized Hublot Clocks. In 2013, coach Jason Kidd became a friend of the Hublot brand, and can be seen wearing the Big Bang Unico or a Classic Fusion Skeleton on the sidelines. Biver presented Coach Kidd with a check earlier in the evening to support the ongoing effort of the Jason Kidd Foundation, which The Hublot Big Bang Dark offers mentoring, tutoring and technology proJeans watch was debuted at the event. grams to help youth succeed in life.

Hublot chairman JeanClaude Biver at Brooklyn’s Barclays Center, home of the Nets basketball team.

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14-COA-0

GRAND TOURING SPORT Citizen’s exclusive caliber 9012 automatic movement with specially-designed rotor and 24 jewels viewed through an exhibition caseback.

One-way rotating bezel. Water resistant 300m. 44mm case. Sapphire crystal.

Š 2014 Citizen Watch Company

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citizen-signature.com

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previews Hermès Nantucket Silver and Cape Cod Tonneau Silver These two new pieces from La Montre Hermès debut at Baselworld 2014. Both are crafted in an exclusive proprietary silver alloy, which took two years to develop, containing a larger proportion of silver than the traditional 925 alloy. Both watches have interchangeable leather straps that come in a range of colors, including raspberry, blue, black, orange, and iris-colored. In addition, the models have newly redesigned dials, modernizing them while retaining signature elements. Both models also feature diamond options.

Hermès 800-441-4488 www.Hermes.com

The Hermès Cape Cod Tonneau Silver

The Hermès Nantucket Silver

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previews Bulgari Diva High Jewelry The new high jewelry Bulgari Diva collection is inspired by the golden age of silver screen legends and embodies the values of the brand. It celebrates Bulgari’s close links to the most iconic celebrities: countless vintage photos have chronicled a steady flow of film stars going in and out of the flagship boutique on the Via dei Condotti in Rome.

This connection continues to the present day. The new collection is a tribute to modern day divas as well. There are several versions of the watch, with different combinations of gemstones, including turquoise, diamonds, emeralds, tourmalines and colored pearls. The fully set Diva has nearly 23 carats of brilliant and baguette cut diamonds. The movements are quartz.

Bulgari 800-BULGARI www.bulgari.com

The fully set diamond Diva High Jewelry watch, with 22.62 carats of diamonds in an 18k gold case.

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The Diva High Jewelry watch in 18k gold, with 10.29 carats of diamonds and 10.52 carats of emeralds.

The Diva High Jewelry watch in 18k gold, with 7.51 carats of diamonds, as well as tourmaline and turquoise.

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Hall 1.1 B83

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SWISS MADE

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previews Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT Patrouille Suisse This 1,000-piece special edition chronograph celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Patrouille Suisse, an air acrobatic team of the Swiss Air Force. It has a steel case and black dial with the flight team logo at 9 o’clock. The rotating bezel has inlaid rubber numerals. The second hour hand, tipped by the outline of a red F-5E Tiger II aircraft, displays the second time zone, while the 24-hour scale on the bezel also enables a third time zone reading.

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Breitling USA 877-BREITLING www.Breitling.com

IWC Aquatimer 2000 This remarkable diving watch is water resistant to 2,000 meters and features a mechanical external/internal rotating bezel with IWC SafeDive system display. It has a 46mm titanium case, and contains an automatic caliber 80110, with a 44 hour power reserve and a central hacking seconds. The image of a scuba diver is engraved on the caseback.

IWC Schaffhausen 800-432-9330 www.iwc.com

Baume & Mercier Clifton The Clifton 10130 is part of the brand’s heritage-inspired collection, with all the hallmarks of the so-called Golden ’50s.

It has a stainless steel case, with a flexible steel strap made of fine links. It is water-resistant to 50 meters, and contains the self-winding mechanical movement ETA 7750, known for its durability. Day and date are displayed at 3 o’clock.

Baume & Mercier 800-MERCIER www.baume-et-mercier.com

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HERITAGE, CRAFT, TIME

GRAND SHAR DB

Rose gold 18 K 5N and PVD case // Ă˜ 44 mm // 48h power-reserve // 5ATM Lenox Jewelers: Fairfield, CT / (203) 374-6157 // Medawar Fine Jewelers: Rolling Hills Estates, CA / (310) 544-0052 //David Orgell: Beverly Hills, CA 90210 / (800) 367-4355 // King Jewelers: Aventura, FL / (305) 935-4900 // La Swiss: Toronto, ON / +1 (416) 925-3500 dubey & schaldenbrand americas, inc: + 1 781 269 5569 // info@dubeywatchamericas.com // www.dubeywatch.com

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previews Carl F. Bucherer Traveltec FourX GMT The Four X Limited Edition combines an18k gold case with high-tech ceramic bezel, tough titanium push piece and rubber strap, while functions include chronograph, date window and settings for three time zones. The date window at 4 o’clock is conveniently louped, making it highly readable. It is powered by the decorated automatic movement CFB 1901.1, and will be made in an edition of 125 pieces.

Carl F. Bucherer 800-395-4306 www.carl-f-bucherer.com

Glashütte Original PanoLunar Tourbillon The PanoLunar flying tourbillon is part of the brand’s Art & Technik collection; they are reinterpretations of watchmaking’s most important inventions. This is an enhanced flying tourbillon, with an escapement that features an oscillating system with eight regulating screws and 12 weighted gold screws to ensure greater precision.

Glashütte Original 866-203-8699 www.glashuette-original.com

Luminox ANU The acronym here stands for “Authorized Navy Use” and this watch is built for the job. It is water resistant to 200 meters, with a “constant glow” dial for high legibility and a unidirectional rotating bezel to time dives, which is fitted with a color tube. The case is stainless steel with black PVD, and it comes with either a black nylon strap or a polyurethane strap with steel/PVD buckle.

Luminox 415-455-9500 www.Luminox.com

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previews Piaget Altiplano 900P With the new Altiplano, Piaget sets another record for ultrathin watches. The 900P is the world’s thinnest mechanical movement, measuring 3.65mm thin, including the 18k gold case. The movement and the case are integrated so that the movement is built directly on the caseback. The offset dial at 10 o’clock displays hours and minutes.

Piaget 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com

Hublot Big Bang Pop Art The Big Bang Pop Art is a ladies’ collection, with multi-colored straps and dials, set with either sapphire, tsavorite, amethyst or topaz, all baguette cut. They contain the Hublot HUB4300 automatic caliber.

The case is 41mm and comes in steel or rose gold versions, with different color combination options. It is water resistant to 100 meters.

Hublot 800-536-0636 www.hublot.com

Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture The Manufacture is fitted with the brand’s in-house Caliber UN0334, which enables the second time zone and date to be adjusted both forward and backward. The home time indicator in the porthole at 9 clock reads time on a 24-hour scale, while the main dial is reserved for local time. This is achieved simply by pressing the (+) or (-) pushers positioned at 10 o’clock and 8 o’clock, without having to remove the watch from the wrist or interrupting its timekeeping. The calendar function automatically synchronizes with adjustments made in either direction.

Ulysse Nardin 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com

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previews Breva Genie 01 Terre This unique time piece has an altimeter function, which helps keep you on time and on track, whether trekking, skiing or mountain biking. A subdial at 8 o'clock displays hours and minutes, and the one at 2 o'clock is an altimeter, displaying meters (or feet). Arcing around the top of the dial is the largescale altitude indicator, which displays up to 5,000 meters (or 16,400 feet), with small seconds below.

Breva +41-22-737-4998 www.breva-watch.com

Bell & Ross Vintage BR 126 Flyback The brand’s latest Vintage model pays tribute to the Lockheed SR-71, the legendary 1960s American spy plane. The plane had black paint, to absorb radar waves, and this feature is mimicked in the PVD black case of the watch. It is an aviation chronograph with a flyback function, powered by a self-winding mechanical movement. The BR 126 Flyback is a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Bell & Ross 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com

Mühle Glashütte Teutonia II Day/Date This classic watch displays day, date and time. The day is in a curved window at the 12 o’clock position, while the date is at 6 o’clock. They are surrounded by a guilloche dial. The movement is an automatic caliber SW 240-1, with a 38-hour power reserve. It is water resistant to 100 meters.

©2014

Mühle-Glashütte 727-896-8453 www.muehle-glashuette.de

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We Have the Best Time.

In a world full of watches too valuable to risk to the elements, and too delicate to expose to reality, Reactor is proud to be the watch you wear while you’re having the time of your life.

Join us and have the best time.

Proton World Time Chronograph • Bi-directional bezel displays current time in every time zone • Unique scale flags locations that do not adjust for DST • Forged from solid 316L stainless steel

©2014

• 100% depth tested to 200M/660Ft

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One of more than 100 styles from $225 to $1500 U.S. Learn more & find a dealer near you at reactorwatch.com

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previews Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1902 The latest in this aviation watch collection is a tribute to the Wright Brothers. It will be introduced in a limited edition of 1,903 pieces, in honor of the date that Wilbur and Orville Wright achieved the first powered flight in history, on Kitty Hawk Beach.

The case is black DLC-coated titanium that is ultra-light, and it contains the automatic Elite caliber 693.

Zenith 866-675-2079 www.zenith-watches.com

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase The moonphase indication of this watch is designed to remain accurate for 122.6 years. The watch features the signature elements of the brand, including an off-center dial, outsize date and lavishly finished movement, the Caliber L095.3. A double barrel ensures a 72-hour power reserve. The moonphase can be adjusted separately by using the pushpiece embedded in the case flank between 7 and 8 o’clock.

A. Lange & Söhne 800-408-8147 www.alange-soehne.com

Dubey & Schaldenbrand Coeur Blanc Dubey & Schaldenbrand steps into the combined worlds of high jewelry and high watchmaking with the Coeur Blanc, a diamond set tourbillon.

Coeur, French for heart, symbolizes the beat to the rhythm of organic life, just as a balance wheel provides the beat to the rhythm of timekeeping.

Blanc, French for white, is the color of purity. The watch is set with 255 invisibly set baguette diamonds totaling 24.5 carats . The movement is the tourbillons base 800i. It is limited to three pieces.

Dubey & Schaldenbrand 781-269-5569 www.dubeywatch.com 30

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Hermès Going up?

The Hermès Arceau Lift takes its inspiration from some surprising elements of its Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré boutique in Paris

by Carol Besler

The back of the gold case bears an engraving of the Hermès ex-libris – a crest that is also represented in the tiling on the floor of the boutique.

W

e have seen watches named after everything from space ships and movie stars to boats and fighter planes, so why not an

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elevator? The Hermès Arceau Lift is uniquely inspired by the architecture of the Hermès boutique at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.

Specifically, its name refers to the wrought iron Art Nouveau detailing on the grill that encloses the elevator (or “lift” as Europeans call it) in the

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flagship store. The decorative wrought iron appears in a number of areas throughout the store, including the entrance doorway, the handrails, the bannisters – and above all the door of the lift, installed in 1923.

The barrel bridge at 12 o’clock and the tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock feature a decorative double H in a scrolling style that calls to mind the wrought-iron artistry. This

double H symbolizes three things: the Hermès logo, the emblematic motifs inside the Rue du Faubourg store and also the union between the Hermès and Hollande families in 1900, through the marriage of Emile Hermès, grandson of the House founder Thierry, and Julie Hollande. Emile Hermès bought the building on Faubourg in 1923 and launched a construction plan to turn the manufacturing premises into a boutique with large display windows. The upper floors contained the artisans’ workshops.

The Hermès Arceau Lift is the brand’s first flying tourbillion, with Caliber H1923, named in reference to the date when the elevator was installed in the boutique.

The dial plate of the multi-layered movement is decorated with a raised chevron motif. The beveling on the bridges, wheels and screws is entirely done by hand, while the 12 o’clock jewel surround, as well as the double H topping

The Hermès Arceau Lift features a multi-layered movement, decorated with a raised chevron motif, with additional beveling on the bridges, wheels and screws, entirely done by hand.

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the tourbillon carriage feature the mirror-polishing technique known as specular polishing.

This complication may be admired from the dial side, but is also revealed through an opening in the back of the gold case, which bears an engraving of the Hermès ex-libris – a crest that is also represented in the tiling on the floor of the boutique.

The Arceau Lift is fitted with an alligator strap crafted in the workshops of La Montre Hermès, and is being produced in a numbered limited edition of 176 pieces, each representing one year of Hermès’ existence since 1837.

The Arceau Lift is being produced in a numbered limited edition of 176 pieces, each representing one year of Hermès’ existence since 1837.

The Hermès Arceau Lift is the brand’s first flying tourbillion, with Caliber H1923.

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The Hermès boutique at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.

The banister at the Hermès boutique at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.

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The entrance to the boutique on Faubourg.

The Doors to the “lift” at the Hermès boutique at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.

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Van Cleef & Arpels’s Midnight Planetarium Poetic Complication replicates the movement of six planets around the sun.

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ixteen of the world’s most prestigious watchmakers gathered in Geneva in January to launch their new creations to select members of the press and retailers. This year’s theme was the world of astronomy, and several brands focused on the heavens to create new timepieces. Van Cleef & Arpels’s Midnight Planetarium Poetic Complication replicates the movement of six planets around the sun and their position at any given time. Each of the planets rotates at its own speed, on an individual disk, around the sun. The planets are depicted with various hard stones

set into the disks, including turquoise for Earth, serpentine for Mercury, chloromelanite for Venus, red jasper for Mars, blue agate for Jupiter and sugilite for Saturn. The sun, at the center, is rendered in pink gold. Telling the time on the watch is indicated via a shooting star located at the outer edge of the dial.

A. Lange & Söhne likewise portrayed the heavens with the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna, an orbital moonphase. Hours are shown regulatorstyle in the subdial at four o’clock, with overlapping minutes and seconds dials.

There is also a leap year indicator in the

upper right. The caseback is a dramatic orbital moonphase display with not only moonphase but the moon’s position in the night sky from the northern hemisphere – so the watch also functions as a day/night indicator. The balance wheel serves as the sun, and three moving disks represent the sky, earth and moon.

Ultra thin watches were also an important aspect of the new introductions.

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon, the world’s thinnest minute repeater, with an automatic tourbillon movement.

It is the brand’s first ultra-thin grande

A. Lange & Söhne’s Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna is an orbital moonphase.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon, the world’s thinnest minute repeater, with an automatic tourbillon movement.

Piaget 900P Ultra Thin, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, is just 3.65 mm thick.

complication, at 7.9mm thick.

Piaget’s 900P Ultra Thin measures in as the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, at 3.65mm thick. The caseback doubles as the main plate, onto which the movement is built, with the whole assembly also serving as the dial. The hands are integrated on 38

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the same level as the movement components. A high jewelry version contains about five carats of diamonds and is just 5.65mm thick.

There were a few showstoppers at the fair. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept watch was among them. It is a GMT Tourbillon in

titanium with a white ceramic upper bridge, crown and push buttons, with the caliber 2930, driven by two barrels for a 10-day power reserve.

The H (Hour), N (Neutral) and R (Remontage) indications correspond to the three positions of the winding stem, meaning time-setting, neutral

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The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept watch, a GMT Tourbillon in titanium with a white ceramic upper bridge, crown and push buttons.

The Montblanc TimeWalker Montblanc/ Minerva Caliber MB M66.25, measures elapsed intervals to 100th of a second.

and winding respectively.

Another showstopper was the Montblanc/Minerva Caliber MB M66.25, which measures elapsed intervals to 100th of a second according to the same principle. It vibrates at a frequency of 50 hertz or 360,000 vph, with two balance wheels: one

dedicated to the chronograph and the other to regular time, each powered by a separate mainspring barrel.

It is equipped with two zero-return mechanisms: one for the 100ths of a second and another for elapsed minutes and seconds. The movement is made entirely by hand, including

plate, bridges, and balance spring.

Baume & Mercier introduced the Clifton Flying Tourbillon, which was inspired by a pocket watch created by the brand in 1892 that won first prize that year at the Kew Observatory Chronometer competition for accuracy. The movement for the new Winter/Spring 2014

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High Watchmaking Previews 2014

The Baume & Mercier Clifton Flying Tourbillon was inspired by a pocket watch created by the brand in 1892.

The IWC Aquatimer Chronograph “50 Years Science for Galapagos” in support of the Charles Darwin Foundation’s Research Station on the Galapagos.

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A piece from the Vacheron Constantin Fabuleux Ornements collection, influenced by Ottoman architecture, with chamfered pink gold, mother-of-pearl and half-pearl beads.

wristwatch version was created by Val Fleurier.

IWC introduced a completely revamped Aquatimer collection at this year’s SIHH, including a trio of special edition watches that pay tribute to environmental conservation in the Galapagos Islands. One of these commemorates the 50th anniversary of the Charles Darwin Research Station, a scientific institution set up by the Charles Darwin Foundation on the islands. IWC has

supported the Charles Darwin Foundation since 2009. The watch contains the Caliber 89365, a self-winding chronograph movement, with an external/ internal rotating bezel, a date display, small hacking seconds and luminescent elements on the hands, dial and internal rotating bezel. It features the IWC bracelet quick-change system and is water resistant to 300 meters. The caseback is engraved and numbered. The watch is limited to 500 pieces.

Skeletonization was another important theme. Vacheron Constantin combined this art with engraving and enameling in the Metiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements collection. The collection was inspired by the decorative arts of four cultures: Ottoman architecture, Chinese embroidery, Indian manuscripts and French lacework. They feature the hand-engraved skeletonized Caliber 1003.

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times the world The pioneer of satellite technology for timekeeping celebrates light and space

by Carol Besler

The Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F100 is powered by light, using Citizen’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology, and captures time information sent from satellites orbiting in space.

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itizen Watch celebrates the next generation of its satellite technology not only with a new timepiece – Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F100 – but also with a new booth installation at Baselworld.

In creating the installation, award-winning Parisbased Japanese architect Tsuyoshi Tane “tried to imagine how one would have experienced the beginning of time.” Thus, he came up with the theme “Compressed Time,” reflecting the concept that the beginning of time is the beginning of light. The Satellite Wave F100 is powered by light, using Citizen’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology, and captures time information sent from satellites orbiting in space with a signal speed of approximately three seconds. This represents the world’s fastest satellite signal reception speed.

“Compressed Time” is inspired by the vision of a future where compressed light pushes technological innovation and makes it instantaneous. “We began by thinking about the installation as the watch from the beginning of time, time that begins from the compressed time in one second,” says Tsuyoshi. As the beginning of time is equivalent to the birth of light, we are trying to create an image in which the space experience of the installation is inseparable from the notion of light and time, with the movement of light being the flow of time,” says Tsuyoshi.

The theme of light allows Citizen to celebrate its Eco-Drive technology, which harnesses light to power the watch. “Light always delivers us surprises above and beyond our imagination,” says Tsuyoshi, adding, “I am awed by Citizen’s belief in developing watches that convert light into time, exploring mankind’s uncharted realm of possibilities, and always thinking of the people that use them.”

In 2011, Citizen took watch technology to new heights, when it launched the first Eco-Drive Satellite Wave, capable of being synched with satellites in space to display accurate time anywhere in the world. Two years later, Eco-Drive Satellite Wave–Air debuted with a full-metal case and the world’s fastest signal reception speed, thanks to radically improved antennae sensitivity. Since its

Sunrise, part of the Citizen L series, has a mother of pearl dial, a steel case with 3 floating diamonds. The watch is inspired by the morning dew, and it is powered by Citizen Eco-Drive light technology.

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The Citizen booth at Baselworld is a celestial sanctuary, with silver colored main plates hanging from the ceiling to represent the connection between the movement of light and the flow of time.

times the world inception, the Eco-Drive Satellite Wave series has enjoyed accolades from around the world. The latest version, the Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F100, is thinner and lighter than its predecessors, and can display the time in 40 different time zones. The case is made of lightweight titanium, and the hollowed push button design at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock simulate the 44

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fuselage of navigational satellites.

Finally, the watch is also the world’s thinnest light-powered satellite synchronized watch, at 12.4mm thick.

Citizen’s dedication to lightpowered technology is reflected in the booth design at Baselworld this year. Silver-colored main plates, the component on which a watch movement is built, are suspended

on wires to create a sense of the connection between the movement of light and the flow of time. The overall feeling is celestial, with the plates seemingly floating in space, where the new Eco-Drive Satellite Wave receives its signals from orbiting satellites for the world’s 40 time zones.

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The precision of a Swiss watch, neatly packaged in an airline.

In Switzerland, commitment to high quality comes standard. So it goes with us. The combination of personal service, award-winning cuisine, and fully ďƒ&#x;at beds allow you to arrive relaxed. Last but not least because we arrive on time. Precisely on time.

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Babe Ruth's Championship Watch at

Heritage Auctions

by Stuart Leuthner

A 1952 baseball signed by the New York Yankees team including Joe Dimaggio and Marilyn Monroe. One of only fifteen balls that exist, the signatures include that of twenty-one year old Mickey Mantle, playing his rookie season with the Yankees. Sold for $19,120.

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n February 22-23, 2014, Heritage Auction presented Sports Platinum Night, an auction featuring an amazing collection of sports memorabilia. Held in New York, the auction attracted a motivated group of bidders, both in person and on the internet. When the gavel dropped on the last lot, the auction realized $7,178,321. Of special interest to readers of Chronos, a pocket watch presented to Babe Ruth in 1923 sold for $717,000. Chris Ivy, Heritage Auction's director of sports auctions stated “As the Babe’s personal award for the first world championship in New York Yankees franchise history, I believe that

this is the most important piece of New York Yankees franchise history that exists.”

Ruth's watch was manufactured by the Gruen Watch Company. At one time, Gruen was one of America's most prestigious watchmakers. Introduced in 1922, Gruen's Pentagon pocket watch was advertised as the watch that won't move in your pocket. The five-sided case's unique shape was even patented to prevent other watch makers from producing a similar design. Gruen's "Verithin" movement allowed for a slimmer, more elegant case.

Pentagon pocket watches were expensive. A basic model cost $75; upgrading the case or movement could raise the fi-

nal cost considerably. Gruen encouraged organizations to choose the timepieces as presentation pieces. To celebrate the New York Yankees' first world championship, the Yankee's management ordered gold Pentagon pocket watches (rings came along later) for team members, executives and front office workers.

George Herman "Babe" Ruth was not only a member of the Yankees, he was a major force in the team's six game victory over the Giants in the 1923 World Series.

Ruth batted .368, walked eight times and hit three home runs. Yankee Stadium, opened that year would forever be known as "The House that Ruth Built."

The only known factory model bat used by "Shoeless Joe" Jackson during his major league career. Famous for being banned for life from organized baseball for his participation in the 1919 World Series Scandal, Jackson used the bat during his rookie season when his batting average was above 400, the only rookie to achieve that mark.

Sold for $956,000.

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To celebrate the New York Yankees' victory in the 1923 World Series, players, executives and front office staff were awarded Gruen pentagonal pocket watches. For twenty-five years, Babe Ruth's watch was one of his most prized possessions, but it was considered "lost" until a private collector recently contacted Heritage Auctions. Considered to be one of the most important pieces of Babe Ruth memorabilia, the watch generated an amazing amount of interest and sold for $717,000.

Crafted in fourteen karat gold, the Gruen Verithin watch features a unique pentagonal case. At one time, Gruen was one of America's most prestigious watchmakers and the five-sided case's unique shape was patented to prevent other companies from copying the design. Art deco numerals and the bow (the attachment for the watch chain) emphasize the watch's unusual design. Functions include hours, minutes and small seconds at six o'clock. The watch's caseback is engraved with a scene of a pitcher, hitter and catcher with a ball in flight. Popping off the caseback reveals several inscriptions, including "Presented by Baseball Commissioner to Geroge H. Ruth."

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During his baseball career, Babe Ruth was featured in several films including the 1927 feature, Babe Comes Home. One of only two known copies, this one sheet poster was printed the same year "The Sultan of Swat" set his home run record. Sold for $83,650.

Over the years several of the 1923 championship watches have appeared at auction, but Ruth's disappeared. "No one knew where the piece had been," Ivy explains. "No one ever saw it for public sale or public auction. It was just thought that at some point it had been lost to

time." The sports collecting world was astonished when an anonymous collector contacted Heritage Auctions and explained that he not only owned Ruth's championship watch, but wanted to sell it so he could fund several charitable organizations.

Ruth's watch was one of his most prized possessions, but when he was diagnosed with cancer in the late 1940s, the "Sultan of Swat� presented the watch to his good friend, Charlie Schwefel, a wealthy Manhattan hotelier. Several years later Schwefel's wife gave it to Winter/Spring 2014

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Sports Illustrated magazine named the first Clay-Liston fight (Ali had not yet changed his name from Cassius Clay) as the fourth most important sports moment of the twentieth century. Held on February 25 1964, Clay was a seven-to-one underdog, but was declared World Heavyweight Champion when Liston failed to answer the bell in the seventh round.

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Although Cassius Clay (Muhammad Ali) won a Gold Medal at the 1960 Rome Olympics, he was relatively unknown when he signed to fight Sonny Liston. Everything changed when, wearing these gloves, he shocked the world with his victory over the heavily favored Liston. Sold for $836,500.

Schwefel's nephew, Lewis Fern. An insurance adjuster who shared Ruth's passion for golf, Fern owned the watch until 1988 when he sold it to a prominent sports collector. The watch was tucked away in a safe deposit box until its owner made the decision to offer it for auction.

Crafted in fourteen karat gold, the watch's caseback is engraved with a scene of a pitcher, hitter and catcher with a ball in flight and the words, "BABE RUTH, YANKEES" and "WORLD CHAMPIONS 1923." Popping off the caseback reveals "Presented by Baseball Commissioner to George H. Ruth" and a line

later added by Ruth, "To My Pal, Charles Schwefel." Although the watch's movement does not function, it certainly could be restored if the new owner desired.

Other highlights at the Sports Platinum Night auction included a bat used by "Shoeless Joe" Jackson during his rookie season in 1911 that sold for $956,000 and a baseball, one of fifteen signed by the New York Yankees team including Joe DiMaggio and Marilyn Monroe in 1952, realized $19,120. Babe Ruth appeared in several films, and a one sheet movie poster, one of only two known copies, advertising Babe Comes Home, circa 1927, sold

for $83,650. A pair of gloves worn by Cassius Clay (Muhammad Ali) in his first fight with Sonny Liston, 1964, brought $836,500.

"We are extremely pleased with the strong results of the Platinum Night Sports Auction," Chris Ivy reported.

"Numerous price records were set and we had participation from clients all over the world. The results speak to both the popularity of great athletes like Muhammad Ali, Babe Ruth and others, but also to the growing market for sports collectibles."

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Driven by Clemente Biondetti, this Alfa Romeo 8C 2900B MM won the 1938 Mille Miglia.

The car's elegant supperleggera (super light) body is a structure of small diameter tubes covered with thin alloy panels and was build by Italy's Carrozzeria Touring Company.

The Spirit of Competition Dr. Fred Simeone's Award-winning Collection of Racing Sports Cars Article by Stuart Leuthner Photography by William Taylor

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n a Saturday afternoon in November 2013, an energized crowd congregated in an asphalt parking lot in Philadelphia's southwest industrial corridor. Numbering more than 650, they were there to see a group of very special automobiles in action. The cars included a 1970 Porsche 917 in the Martini Racing team’s distinctive "psychedelic� livery (paint job), a 1966 Ford GT40Mk II that raced at the 24 hours of Le Mans, a 1964 Cobra Daytona Coupe that won the GT class at Sebring which set 23 speed and endurance records at the Bonneville Salt Flats and a 1963 Corvette Grand Sport, one of only five produced to challenge the Shelby Cobras, (race cars built during the 1960s).

Granted, the three-acre site did not allow the drivers to shift, but the sights, sounds and smells as the quartet of racing thoroughbreds weaved their way around the orange parking cones was enough for those lucky enough to witness the display of racing eminence. "I've read about these cars," one twenty-something enthusiast explained, "but I never thought I would see them running. They sound as good as they look."

Each of the cars, along with a brief history of their racing heritage, was intro-

duced by Dr. Frederick Simeone, a noted neurosurgeon and founder of the Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum. In addition to the four cars tooling around the parking lot, more than sixty other important race cars spanning seven decades are housed in the museum adjacent to the parking lot. Founded in 2008, the Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum was conceived by Dr. Simeone to not only house the collection, but to introduce the public to the major automotive advances generated by the rigors of competing on the world's racetracks.

Dr. Simeone's father, also a physician, began to collect cars in the 1950s. Frederick not only helped his father work on the cars, he caught the collecting bug and the elder Simeone acquired a 1949 Alfa Romeo for his son. Even while Frederick was studying medicine at Temple University and the Mayo Clinic, teaching at Harvard and serving as head of neurosurgery at Pennsylvania Hospital, he was quietly adding cars to his growing collection. The cars were originally stored in a garage in downtown Philadelphia. Friends and interested parties would be invited to see them, but Dr. Simeone wanted to create a venue where the cars could be enjoyed by the public in an environment reflecting their history and racing heritage.

"There are few illustrations of the effects of competition as dramatic and beautiful as the evolution of the racing sports car," Dr. Simeone explains. "This is the theme of our exhibition. Here you can learn how racing improves the breed.

You can see the evolution of the race car as the result of seven decades of the "spirit of competition."

Housed in a 100,000-square-foot refurbished engine manufacturing plant, the Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum showcases its collection in a series of engaging dioramas. A 1921 Vauxhall is displayed in a scene recreating the popular car trials held in England to test a car's power and durability. Italy's Mille Miglia, a popular race from Brescia to Rome and back again punished cars and drivers.

Cars often broke down and a 1924 Lancia Lambda is parked in a scene depicting an Italian refornimento (refueling), complete with a vintage gas pump and weathered facade. In another impressive display, nine cars beginning with a 1933 Alfa Romeo and ending with a 1970 Porsche 917 are lined up in a recreation of the pits at Le Mans.

Rather than restoring his cars to the better than new condition found at auctions and Concours d' Elegance, Dr. Simeone maintains many of his cars in "as

A 1935 Auburn 851 Supercharged Speedster photographed during a Simeone Foundation Demonstration Day. Popular with movie stars, both Marlene Dietrich and George Murphy owned Speedsters. The handsome sporting vehicle could top 100 miles per hour.

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Located in Indianapolis, the American Motor Car Company introduced the "underslung" roadster in 1906. With its frame located below the axles, the underslung car was rakishly low for the time. The Simeone Foundation's 1909 model is fitted with forty-inch wheels needed to provide ground clearance on early roads.

Six Shelby Daytona Coupes were built between 1964 and 1965. This example has an extremely colorful history. The car won the 12 Hours of Sebring in 1964, set 25 world speed records at the Bonneville Salt Flats, disappeared for 30 years and was just selected as the very first automobile to be designated as historically significant by the Department of the Interior.

found" condition, or as one writer put it, "a patina of honest accomplishment." In an effort to explain his thoughts on restoration versus conservation, Dr. Simeone, along with 54

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other noted contributors published The Stewardship of Historically Important Automobiles, a book that won the International Historic Motoring Awards "Publication of the Year."

In 2011, the Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum won another award when it beat out Europe's major racing car museums and was named Museum of the Year by

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Built to challenge Ferrari, the Ford GT40 dominated the 1966 running of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, crossing the finish line in first, second and third places. The Simeone Foundation's 1966 Ford Mk II was put through its paces during the museum's demonstration day in November 2013.

Introduced in 1973, the Alfa Romeo 33TT 12 was an extremely successful race car. Driven by Nino Vaccarella and Arturo Merzario, a 33TT 12 won the 1975 Targa Florio, a grueling endurance race run on public streets in the mountains of Sicily.

the International Historic Motoring Awards. Judges included musician and vintage car racer Nick Mason, Pebble Beach chief judge Ed Gilbertson, five times Le Mans winner

Derek Bell and design director of Jaguar cars Ian Callum. Commenting on the award, Dr. Simeone said, "This is an enormous honor for the Simeone Automotive Museum, espe-

cially considering the quality of the other institutions that were considered."

Dr. Simeone believes it is imperative to show the cars in action.

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Piloted by Franco Cortese, this 1933 Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Monza, took second place at the 1933 Mile Miglia. During the evening before the race, the car caught fire but a heroic effort by the driver and his team had the car ready to go the next morning.

"If you have a clock museum," he explains, "you want the clocks to work". Introduced in 2009, the Driving Demonstration Days (known to fans as Demo Days) are held on the fourth Saturday of each month, weather permitting, at twelve noon. A group of cars are selected to reflect a theme or represent a specific marque. The November 2013 event, titled the People's Choice, was unique in that the cars were selected by email voting. Demonstration Days scheduled for 2014 include LeMans Rules on March 8, featuring five cars that ran in the pre-war years at LeMans. On April 26, What was the Mille Miglia? will showcase three Alfa Romeos and a Maserati.

"You can go into a museum and see things that are untouchable," says Kevin Kelly, the museum's curator, "or you can read about them, but these cars were designed for a purpose – to drive them."

Please note that in addition to the Demonstration Days held on the 4th Saturday of the month, the Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum has added in 2014 a second series - Racing Legends Days - on the 2nd Saturday of most months. Please visit the website www.SimeoneMuseum.org for the full schedule.

Powered by a supercharged inline eight-cylinder engine, this 1937 Alfa Romeo 8C 2900A raced in the 1937 Mille Miglia. Driven by Giuseppe Farina and Stefano Meazza, the car finished a very respectable second.

Founded in 1947 by Bill France, the National Association for Stock Car Auto Racing (NASCAR) is one of the most popular sports franchises in the United States. Included in the Simeone Foundation's NASCAR collection, a replica of the 1938 Ford Coupe driven by Louise Smith, an early competitor known as "the first lady of NASCAR."

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The Spirit of Competition

Designed by Ettore Bugatti's son, Jean, the Bugatti 57G was nicknamed "the Tank" due to its fully enclosed body work. Only three of the cars were built and their streamlined bodies provided them with better fuel economy and higher speeds. Winner of the 1937 24 Hours of Le Mans, the museum's example is the only surviving 57G.

Dr. Frederick Simeone, a prominent neurosurgeon, caught the car collection bug from his father. The Simeone Foundation Automotive Museum was created to share Dr. Simeone's collection with the public. "There are few illustrations," Dr. Simeone explains, "of the effects of competition as dramatic, and beautiful, as the evolution of the racing sports car."

The 24 Hours of Le Mans is the most prestigious endurance sports car race in the world.

Displayed in a recreation of the pits at Le Mans, this line up of racing thoroughbreds demonstrates how technology changed the race's contestants between 1933 and 1970.

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Raymond Loewy's Locomotives for the Pennsylvania Railroad

Streamlined Iron

by Stuart Leuthner

Brand new T1 number 5519 poses for the company photographer at the Pennsylvania Railroad's Altoona Railroad shops in 1946. Featuring Raymond Loewy's distinctive "sharknose" styling, the T1s were powerful and fast, easily reaching speeds of 100 miles per hour, but they were difficult to maintain and prone to violent wheelslip. Photograph/William Burket

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n the early 1930s, Raymond Loewy arrived at the Philadelphia offices of the Pennsylvania Railroad (PRR).

At that time the railroads were among the country's major industries and the young industrial designer wanted a piece of the action. A secretary ushered Loewy into the offices of Martin W. Clement, the PRR’s president. After some small talk Clement asked Loewy, "What do you have in mind?" Loewy replied, "A locomotive."

Smiling, the executive suggested designing a locomotive for the "Standard Railroad of the World" might be a bit of a stretch, but Penn Station needed a more attractive trashcan.

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Loewy spent the next three days in Pennsylvania Station. "For hours," he recalled, "I watched passengers, commuters, loafers in their most intimate dealings with a railroad refuse receptacle." A few days later he dropped off his drawings and Clement ordered several prototypes built and placed at strategic points in the New York terminal.

Several weeks later, Loewy was summoned back to Philadelphia. Clement launched into a long dissertation about the French, their cooking, the war – everything but the subject at hand. Loewy was finally unable to contain himself, exclaiming, "Mr. Clement how's the trash

can?" Leaning forward, Clement smiled, "Young man, in this railroad we never discuss problems that are solved."

Born in Paris in 1983, Raymond Fernand Loewy, the youngest of three sons, served in the French army during World War I. Wounded in combat, he received the Croix de Guerre (Cross of War) and attained the rank of captain. After studying engineering, Loewy, now twenty-six, was urged by his brother to join him in New York. He booked passage on a liner, wearing his military uniform (the only clothing he owned) with $40 in his pocket. Aboard ship, he showed his sketches to Sir Harry Closter Armstrong, the British

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Griffith "Grif" Teller painted a series of striking wall calendar scenes for the Pennsylvania Railroad between 1928 and 1958. Dating from 1937, "Ready to Go" features Raymond Loewy's streamlined #3768 K4 locomotive, left, next to a conventional K4. Nicknamed "The Torpedo" the locomotive was used to pull the railroad's flagship train, the Broadway Limited. Photograph: Bill Burket

consul in New York. Armstrong was so impressed he provided Loewy with a letter of introduction to Conde Nast, the publisher of Vogue and Vanity Fair. Nast in turn, was also impressed and Loewy was soon producing fashion illustrations for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. When Loewy's work came to the attention of New York's leading department stores, he was hired to design their windows.

In 1927, he was introduced to Sigmund Gestetner, founder of the company that produced the famed duplicating machines. Gestetner asked Loewy if he could give his machine, a menacing conglomeration of gears, pulleys, belts and knobs, a facelift. Loewy lugged a machine up to apartment and built a clay model rendered in the popular Art Moderne style.

Gestetner not only wrote Loewy a check for $2,000, he paid the designer a yearly 60

retainer not to work for his competitors.

Having decided to pursue a career as an industrial designer, Loewy was soon cranking out designs for Westinghouse, the Hupp Motor Company and Sears Roebuck & Co. His streamlined Coldspot refrigerator whose sales jumped from 60,000 to 275,000 in two years established his reputation. Raymond Loewy Associates was now operating offices in New York and London.

After Loewy's garbage cans passed muster, his next assignment was what he had dreamed of; a locomotive. In 1934, the Pennsylvania Railroad ordered new electric locomotives known as the GG1.

Featuring a streamlined body and articulated frame, the legendary GG1 was capable of pulling fourteen passenger cars at 100 miles per hour. Although Loewy did not design the locomotive, he replaced

the rivets on the prototype with a smooth, welded body, massaged the locomotive's profiles and embellished the Brunswick green paint with five gold pinstripes nicknamed "cat's whiskers" by rail enthusiasts.

During the 1930s, the railroads were losing customers to the growing number of automobiles and the fledgling airlines.

In an effort to lure the traveling public back to the rails, steam locomotives and the trains they pulled were given facelifts. Loewy was commissioned to design a streamlined shroud for a one-of-a-kind PRR workhorse, the K4 passenger locomotives dubbed "The Torpedo" and the interiors and exteriors of the railroad's premier trains, including the flagship Broadway Limited.

Following his famous maxim, "Most Advanced Yet Acceptable", Loewy utilized curved panels to eliminate corners

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At the 1939/1940 New York World's Fair, the Pennsylvania Railroad's S1 locomotive was displayed on a platform fitted with rollers allowing visitors to see the streamlined one-of-a-kind locomotive in action.

One writer recalled, "It was a magnificent display of American industry at work." Raymond Loewy was awarded a patent for the locomotive's streamlined shell. Photograph: Bill Cotter

and increase the feeling of space in the car's interiors. State-of-the-art materials, chrome-plated tubular steel tubing, glass, mirrored surfaces, sound absorbing cork, indirect lighting and woven fabrics along with dividers in lounge and dining cars provided an intimate contemporary environment. Rearward facing seats in the round-ended observation cars provided passengers with a unique panorama of the receding scenery. The car's exteriors were painted Tuscan red with gold pinstripes and gold lettering in the recently introduced Futura typeface.

In 1937, the PRR ordered a futuristic passenger locomotive with a streamlined shroud designed by Loewy. Known as the S1, the locomotive with its tender measured more than 140 feet long, giving it the distinction of being the largest nonarticulated engine ever constructed. Two

pairs of cylinders drove two pairs of four drivers, and six-wheel leading and trailing trucks supported the locomotive's 97,000 lb. weight. Loewy was awarded U.S. Patent 2,128,490 for the S1's streamlined shell.

At the 1939 New York World’s Fair, the mighty S1 was displayed on a platform fitted with rollers allowing visitors to see the locomotive in action. One writer remembered, "It was astounding. Drive wheels and valve gear whirling; smoke and steam billowing and punctuated with unforgettable whistle blasts it was an astounding display of American industry at work."

Unfortunately, the S1 never lived up to its designer's hopes. Unable to haul the hoped for 1,000 tons at 100 miles per hour, the locomotive’s length banished it to the PRR's western tracks. Susceptible

to wheelslip, the engine's drivers could spin out of control and cause severe damage to the locomotive. Only one S1 was built and it was scrapped in 1949.

Delivered in the early 1940s, the duplex-drive T1s, were the last steam locomotives ordered by the PRR. Fitted with a four wheel pilot truck, two sets of four drivers and four trailing wheels, the locomotive's prodigious power and speed were personified by Loewy's dramatic "sharknose" styling. Although the T1s were capable of easily pulling trains at speeds exceeding 100 miles per hour, they were difficult to maintain and, like the S1, prone to violent wheelslip. The last T1 was retired in 1952 and, tragically, none of the fifty engines managed to escape the scrapper's torch.

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Raymond Loewy standing in front of GG1 #4935. In 1976, Howard Serig, a railroad enthusiast and economist for the U.S. Department of Transporation suggested restoring an operating GG1 to its original Pennsylvania Railroad livery. Funded by the "Friends of GG1" (FOGG) and Amtrak, the gleaming locomotive was dedicated at a ceremony on May 15, 1977 at Washington D.C.'s Union Station. Loewy, who served as Honorary Chairman of FOGG spent several hours answering questions, signing autographs and posing for photographs. Photograph: Lawson Little.

Time magazine featured Raymond Loewy on their October 31, 1949 issue. Illustrated by Boris Artzybasheff, the designer is surrounded with many of his important commissions, including the Pennsylvania Railroad S1 locomotive in the upper left. Photograph: Time magazine

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After she was retired, GG1 #4935 was acquired by the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania in Strasburg, Pennsylvania. Nicknamed "Blackjack," it is estimated the locomotive covered more than 3 million miles between New York City, Washington D.C. and Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Photograph: Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania.

styling introduced with the T-1. Built by the Baldwin Locomotive Works, the locomotives used by the PRR and several other railroads were among the most attractive diesel engines ever built, but the era of the cab units ended in the late 1960s. Of the more than 100 units built, only two exist today.

In addition to the PRR, Loewy worked for other railroads and locomotive builders. He designed several well-proportioned diesels for Fairbanks-Morse, the Norfolk & Western Railroad’s Roanoke, Virginia station as well as the Missouri Pa-

cific Railroad's "Eagle" paint scheme and car interiors.

Raymond Loewy's work for the railroad industry represented a fraction of his firm's work. His clients included Studebaker, TWA, Air France, NASA, Macy's, Saks, Sears-Roebuck, Greyhound and Coca-Cola, to name a few. Other designers, including Henry Dreyfuss and Otto Koehler, designed handsome streamlined locomotives, but it was Loewy's monumental designs for the PRR that embodied the spirit and creativity driving the streamlined age.

One afternoon Loewy went out to a local depot located on the PRR's main line between Crestline, Ohio and Chicago. "I waited for the S-1 to pass through at full speed," he recalled. "I stood on the platform and saw it coming from the distance at 120 miles per hour. It flashed by me like a steel thunderbolt, the ground shaken under me. I felt overwhelmed by an unforgettable feeling of power, by a sense of pride at what I had helped to create. I had, after all, contributed something to a great nation that had taken me in and that I loved so deeply."

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American Classics Early American Guitars: The Instruments of C. F. Martin at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

by Andrew Siskind

Christian Frederick Martin (1796–1873) New York, ca. 1834 Body Length: 17 Ÿ in.

Spruce, maple, ebony, ivory, mother-of-pearl On loan from C. F. Martin IV Photograph by John Sterling Ruth Courtesy of C. F. Martin Archives

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Christian Frederick Martin (1796–1873) Nazareth, Pennsylvania, ca. 1843–48 Body length: 17 3/8 in.

Spruce, rosewood, ivory, mother-of-pearl John H. B. Peden Photograph by John Sterling Ruth Courtesy of C. F. Martin Archives

W

e at Chronos try to present our readers with stories that excite the senses. We do this by highlighting magnificent travel destinations, exquisite works of art, and examples of the highest quality craftsmanship possible. Occasionally we’re in the lucky position of finding a story that combines all three of these subjects, and the Met’s new exhibition of C.F. Martin guitars provides such an opportunity. The Museum has drawn on their own collection, as well as those of other individuals and institutions. This exhibition includes the largest collection of guitars by Christian Frederick Martin, the founder of the company. The remarkable group of instruments includes many historic firsts in the history of American guitar making, including the first instrument made in the US signed by Christian Frederick Martin, the company’s founder and namesake.

Aside from the obvious visual appeal of the instruments you see on these pages, you might wonder what makes these particular guitars so noteworthy. For that, we look back in time to the early nineteenth century when C.F. Martin, a young guitar builder from Saxony travelled to the United States looking for opportunity and to make a name for himself as a builder of fine instruments.

He also wanted to escape the petty infighting of craftsman's’ guilds in Europe. Arriving in New York, Martin established a store and workshop at 196 Hudson Street on the west side of Manhattan, and began to produce guitars in the style he had learned in Vienna.

Soon Martin was exposed to the newly popular Spanish-style guitar. He quickly adapted his style to include the best of both traditions, developing a template for what would soon become the modern guitar as we know it today. His development of an original design that borrowed from both Viennese and Spanish traditions set a

Guitar (serial number 1114) Christian Frederick Martin (1796–1873) New York, ca. 1837 Body Length: 17 ¼ in.

Spruce, rosewood, ivory, mother-of-pearl, abalone On loan from the C. F. Martin Museum Photograph by John Sterling Ruth Courtesy of C. F. Martin Archives

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Christian Frederick Martin (1796–1873) Nazareth, Pennsylvania, ca. 1843–52 Body length: 19 1/2 in.

Spruce, rosewood, ebony, ivory, mother-of-pearl, mastic Perry A. Margouleff Photograph by John Sterling Ruth Courtesy of C. F. Martin Archives

Eric Clapton performing with his 1939 000–42 Photograph by John Bellissimo Courtesy of C. F. Martin Archives

course for all future American guitar making. Many structural and aesthetic innovations came out of Martin’s workshop as he synthesized the popular techniques and styles of the day to create his masterpieces, most notably his xbraced construction.

The 35 guitars on display in this exhibition include both historically and artistically significant pieces that represent the legacy of quality craftsmanship and innovation that characterize the 180 year legacy of the company that C.F. Martin founded in Nazareth, Pennsylvania. We rate this exhibit as an absolute must both for music lovers and anyone who admires fine woodworking and craftsmanship.

The exhibition will run through December 7th, 2014.

Guitar (serial number 1188) Christian Frederick Martin (1796–1873) New York, ca. 1837–1839 Body length: 17 ¼ in.

Spruce, maple, mother-of-pearl, abalone, mastic The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rogers Fund, 1979 © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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...And the Times They Are a Changin’ Article and photography by Automotive Editor, Denis L. Tanney

Sunrise from a top of the main front grandstand roof.

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Pre-race introductions of the drivers and their cars as they are wheeled into formation on the false grid readying themselves for the race. Here we see the eventual overall winner, car # 5, Action Express.

T

he annual fireworks display on Saturday during the Rolex 24 carried a greater significance than ever before. It was the celebration of two great sports car series being brought together into one new wonderful large series. This was the official launch of the Tudor United Sports Car Series, and what an event it turned out to be!

Both the Grand Am Racing and the American LeMans Series joined hands in marriage last year and this Rolex 24 was the send-off on their honeymoon.

The event will bring sports car racing one

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great series in this country – the way it should have been all along according to many critics. The governing body, IMSA (International Motor Sports Association), will continue to guide the new series into the future and be the godparent, so to speak.

Race week began similarly to the test days (also known as The Roar), a few weeks prior in rather unusually cold weather. It was the same bitter cold that has wrapped itself around the entire country this winter so far. But, as the time drew closer to race day, the gods

of weather or Mother Nature herself seemed to shine upon that portion of Florida. Was it preordained or was it just luck? Who cares which, it got warmer and sunnier, and that was great news for everyone. After all, this is Florida, is it not?

David Hobbs was the honored guest at the Rolex dinner the night before the race and the Grand Marshal for the actual race. David is a world famous sports car driver; Formula 5000 winner, Can Am racer, Indy car driver, with a bit of Formula 1, and a touch of NASCAR rac-

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The green flag is waved and the race is on.

ing, and can currently be found on TV, broadcasting races. David got to issue his pearls of wisdom at the drivers meeting held in the victory lane the morning of the race, giving his words of advice and safe driving tips.

The sports car course at the Speedway has been modified a number of times over the last 52 years, since the inception of the original 3 hour Continental race which eventually grew to the current 24 hours in 1966. It is now a full 3.81 mile circuit that incorporates several corners as well as utilizing all four of the high

banked NASCAR turns. Several years ago, stationary lighting was installed around the outside of the track. The rules say that only 20% of that power for these lights may remain on during the Rolex 24, forcing the cars and drivers to be dependent on their headlights. After all, this is 24 hour race and what kind of race would it be if it was always well lit?

Twenty seven countries were represented this year with 156 competitors.

That is a substantial increase over the 16 countries and 69 competitors entered last year. Ticket demand was the highest

in the history of this event as well. And, by all accounts, the speedway was sold out. Traffic was a snarled affair - getting in or out of the speedway any of the last three days took some patience unless you arrived very early in the morning. And, to add insult to injury, the speedway is undergoing a four-hundred million dollar renovation; so the entire front area that faces the International Speedway Boulevard was under construction. But, as they say, the show must go on, and on it did in full swing. This 52nd running of the endurance event was the biggest and

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Flying Lizard Motorsport Audi R8 GTD fighting with the BMW Z4 GTD of Dane Cameron.

most popular 24 hour race ever held at Daytona. There were more infield campers than ever before, and not a square inch of ground could be called vacant.

Every Minnie-Winnie that had a reservation filled its appointed slot. There was no room to even move your own car as space was at a premium. It seemed as though everyone wanted to witness this very first race of the new series in person.

And of course, the television folk had their way; broadcasting some 25 hours of the event plus live streaming on the computer! This was THE event of the 2014

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racing season for sports cars, no question about it.

Four new classes raced here this year, and these four will make up the base for all the remaining races in the Tudor United Sports Car Series. There are twelve races that comprise the new series and they are spread around the US and in Canada. The classes are broken down as follows: The Prototypes, consisting of a combination of the former ALMS P2 open cockpit cars and the Daytona Prototypes, remain the high end racers. They are the

fastest cars of all the classes; 18 of these vehicles raced at Daytona this year. The next class, the Prototype Challenge Cars, saw 9 entries for the Rolex 24. These are spec racers. All are based on the Oreca FLM09 chassis with Chevrolet LS V-8 power plants at a slightly reduced horsepower and slightly slower than the Prototypes. These cars are open cockpit racers. Next, the GTLM cars, basically your high tech GT cars, of which there were 11 entries at Daytona this year. These include the Chevy Corvettes, the Viper V10’s and the BMW and Aston Martins

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Tom Long gets a load of fuel and new rubber during one of the many night time pit stops in the new SpeedSource Mazda diesel Prototype.

and Ferraris. They are high powered GT cars that run almost as fast as the big prototypes. The final class is actually the largest grouping; the GTD class (GT Daytona). The 29 entries that made up this class were the base cars that ran in the Grand Am GT class and are powered by engines putting out less horsepower to the street sports car versions, just modified (more than you think) for track racing. These cars are by no means slow, but they are not as sophisticated in their racing modes as the GTLM cars. There are also Aston Martins, Ferraris, Porsches

and the like and they are less expensive to run and more competitive than one may think, especially when you have 29 of them racing at the same time along with all the other cars on track. Each team needs to have many sets of eyes to race and when it comes to a 24 hour race where each car is allowed to have as many as five drivers; everyone must be on their toes constantly. Just as important to the team as the drivers are the crew members and team technicians who are constantly monitoring the computers for everything from tire wear to fuel consumption to

driver fatigue to the slightest irregularity in the engine bay or any other possible problem on board, and attending to their needs on a finely coordinated timely basis. All these cars are expected to run for the full 24 hours without problems, without hitches and without accidents.

Some 35 sets of tires per car were allocated, with more rain tires sets, set aside just in case. Continental is the official race tire for all classes except the GTLM class which races on Michelin.

This year we saw the unfortunate accident that took place just as the sun was

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Extreme Speed Motorsports Honda, Patron sponsored P2 car with Simon Pagenaud at the wheel.

setting. It was in fact, the setting sun in the drivers eyes that caused the incident.

And, it was the first time in many years that there was any kind of accident during this famous race. With the setting sun shining directly into the driver’s eyes, the pole sitting Riley Chevy Corvette DP car, driven by Memo Gidley, was flying down the straight of the horseshoe when it slammed into the right rear of the Ferrari 458 GTLM driven by Matteo Malucelli. Malucelli had slowed to a near crawl due to an engine problem.

The driver of the Gainsco DP had no

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knowledge of the slow car nor could he see the Ferrari slowing when they collided. It was a massive shunt at a speed of well over 110 mph that has gone viral on the internet and was played over and over again by the TV broadcasters during the race. The race was stopped for almost an hour as the pieces of the two cars scattered all over the track made passing that portion of the course dangerous and basically impossible. Hence, the red flag was waved stopping everyone on the track while things were cleaned up. The sun went down and the race resumed.

The drivers of the Ferrari and the Gainsco Corvette DP were airlifted to the hospital. The Ferrari driver was released the next day but American driver Memo Gidley remained in critical condition with multiple broken bones and internal injuries. We all are praying that he will be fine after his road to full recovery. This is car racing and accidents can happen. It is just that the safety factor has gotten so good that we forget that horrible things can always go wrong and the drivers are always the ones who suffer. It is important to note that these cars are so well

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An example of the open cockpit Prototype racer, this being the Muscle Milk Team Oreca chassis and Nissan Nismo powered machine of drivers: Klaus Graf, Lucas Luhr, and Alexander Brundle.

built today, that both drivers would have died instantly had this been ten or fifteen years ago with the same type of accident.

The race resumed without further incidents and finished under bright sunshine and warmer weather.

Taking the overall win was the Action Express team car #5 driven by Joao Barbosa, Christian Fittipaldi, Sebastien Bourdais and Burt Frisselle in their Corvette DP. Placing second was another Corvette DP of the Wayne Taylor Team consisting of: former 24 winner and series champ Wayne Taylor, his sons, Ricky

and Jordan and finishing the race Max Angelelli. This was the second closest finish in the history of this race with a margin of 1.461 seconds separating Barbosa and Angelelli. In the Prototype Challenge class, the winner was the #54 Core Autosport Team of Jon Bennett, James Gue, Colin Braun and Mark Wilkins in their Oreca FLM09 machine.

The overall GTLM winner was the #911 Porsche North America Team of Nick Tandy, Richard Lietz and Patrick Pilet in their Porsche 911 RSR. And winning the GTD class was the #555 Level Five

Motorsports team of Scott Tucker, Bill Sweedler, Townsend Bell, Jeff Segal and Alessandro Pier Guidi in their Ferrari 458 Italia. The famous Rolex Chronograph was presented to the top winners, and Rolex Watch USA as always made a fine and impressionable presence at their keystone event. As has become customary and expected, Rolex continues to not only support racing but makes sure that any event that their name is associated with is run in a first class, top-drawer manner. The Rolex 24 has a very long tradition as such and it continues to be

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dd 2 rs F.in osCove Chron

Rolex USA CEO, Stuart Wecht having presented the overall winners with their new Rolex Chronograph watches on the podium congratulates them as they show the new time pieces off to the crowd and media. The drivers pictured left to right: Joao Barbosa, Christian Fittipaldi, and Sebastien Bourdais.

...And the Times They Are a Changin’ the center of attention each year when this race is run at the Daytona International Speedway.

This year’s Rolex 24 went down as an historic event. It was, as I said, the honeymoon of the new marriage of the two former great sports car series as well as what everyone hopes will be a won-

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derfully successful major American series. One this country has been hungry for, for years.

The next stop on the circuit is the famous 12 hrs. of Sebring, coming in early March. A full report will cover these pages in a future issue. In the meantime, everyone should make plans

for next winter to come to Daytona for the 2015 Rolex 24. Bring your tents and camping gear or make hotel reservations now as they fill quickly, and set your plans in motion. This is such a fantastic event to be at, that you really don’t want to be left out.

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Sunset at the equator

Lava flows from 1897 eruption on Santiago

A Window of Time

The Galapagos

by Carl E. Rosen

Land Iguana

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Sally Lightfoot Crab

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Passion Flower

C

harles Darwin’s visit to the Galapagos Islands in 1835 served as the practical foundation for his book, On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection. This year, we vacationed on those same islands and explored, as he did, the various species – from the prehistoric-

looking giant tortoises and iguanas to the playful sea lions and penguins. We were surprised that the animals were so accessible and did not fear humans or other species in this beautiful, yet sometimes eerie, UNESCO (United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage site.

The Galapagos is a volcanic archipelago created millions of years ago. Located 600 miles west of the mainland, the Galapagos became part of Ecuador in 1832. The grouping spans the equator and consists of 13 main islands and 6 smaller islands. There are 25,000 people living on the five inhabited islands.

Albatrosses courting

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Giant tortoise

Nazca Boobie at the ocean

As the animals and vegetation were isolated from the mainland and each other, only those species that were able to adapt survived. Many species of animals and flora are endemic to the area – they only appear in the Galapagos. The Floreana mockingbirds, which number 100 in all, inhabit just one island in the world.

We were able to see five of them on one of our hikes!

The Ecuadoreans have learned to respect the environment and protect it; they limit the number of visitors and require tours to be accompanied by licensed naturalists. The typical tour is ship-based with shuttles back and forth to the islands by way of Zodiac tenders. We opted for a tour with National Geographic Lind-

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blad Expeditions on a 48-passenger boat staffed with four naturalists who led us on a host of activities including land hikes, kayaking and snorkeling expeditions.

Each activity provided a different vantage point from which we could study the islands and their treasures. My wife and I have traveled around the world, and we enjoy learning about a region's history and culture. On this excursion however, in addition to learning about the people and their way of life, we also developed an appreciation for the geological past and dynamics of animal behavior – all in a spectacular setting.

The snorkeling was remarkable. We never expected to swim with penguins and sea lions or to snorkel near hammerhead

sharks, octopuses, sea turtles or stingrays.

From our kayaks, we saw an array of birds such as Blue-footed and Nazca Boobies perched on the rocks and island vegetation. On one of our hikes we observed adult birds nesting with their eggs and their newborn chicks. We even watched a fledgling albatross attempt its first flight.

We witnessed giant tortoises mating in a natural setting. We also had front row seats to observe curious courting rituals and behaviors such as the exchange of twigs and rocks or the display of bright colors to attract the opposite gender. Male sea lions fought one another to claim a harem of females.

The sunsets over the equator were breathtaking, and the constellations of the

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Sea lion bull declaring his prominence

night sky of the southern hemisphere were crystal clear. The pictures on these pages can only just begin to show the natural beauty, unique terrain and distinctive animals one sees up-close-and-personal on a trip to the Galapagos. Depending on the island, one could imagine being in Jurassic Park or perhaps in the midst of the lava flow of the volcanic eruption of 1897 at Sullivan Bay on the island of Santiago.

New plants are just beginning to grow through the lava openings created by this eruption, thus beginning a new cycle of life. On Santa Cruz, we were able to walk through a double lava tube which offered us an insight into the early geological formation of the area.

In order to preserve the ecological bal-

ance of the islands, the government is extremely strict about preventing the introduction of non-native species of animals, insects and vegetation to the archipelago.

For example, although they had been introduced by pirates and other early travelers to the Galapagos, wild goats no longer remain on the islands. While the goat population exceeded 500,000 as recently as 1970, a well-planned eradication effort took place to eliminate these animals which were eating the vegetation needed especially by the giant tortoises for their survival.

Darwin was on land for only 19 days during his visit in 1835, but during this short time he solidified his hypothesis of evolution and survival of the fittest. It was

not until 1859 however, that his famous book was published, since he feared reaction from the British religious community. Today, the Charles Darwin Foundation, which is based on the island of Santa Cruz, is thriving and employs 100 people who conduct important research and breed the giant tortoises whose species was once in jeopardy of extinction.

There is additional human history as well. One tradition, which started over 100 years ago, remains to this day on the island of Floreana. Unstamped mail is deposited into the Post Office Barrel there, and travelers to the island are urged to select a few pieces of mail to carry home for hand delivery. One couple on our trip deposited a letter addressed to their

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daughter in New York. It was picked up by a subsequent visitor and then handdelivered within a week! In a few days, we ourselves will deliver a postcard to a recipient in Massachusetts.

Whether you are looking for a very different and active experience, want to visit a beautiful setting or have a passion for learning about animal species, a vacation to the Galapagos would be a ‘natural’ selection.

During mating season the frigate bird expands its red gullet to attract mates.

Carl E. Rosen is principal of Shelter Rock International, a consulting company specializing in watches and other luxury goods. He had a 30-year career with Bulova Corporation, serving as Chief Operating Officer and President of Bulova Swiss, S.A. He is the Director of Anti-Counterfeiting for the American Watch Guild and International Fine Jewelers Guild. He and his wife, Arlene, reside in Connecticut.

A Window of Time

The Galapagos Carl and Arlene Rosen

Post Office Barrel. The tradition is to have visitors deposit letters and take some to hand deliver them around the world.

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JUH_AZ

Lasting values crafted by masters.

The name “Meister” has stood for classic watchmaking at Junghans since 1936. The Meister watches of today follow in this tradition, for they are a result of both passion for precision and close attention to quality.

Choosing a Junghans Meister demonstrates appreciation for these values and for beautiful watchmaking – like our classic Meister, the Meister Calendar.

For more information call 1-855- 828-1969 Junghans Watches USA Email: sales@junghanswatchesusa.net www.junghanswatchesusa.net

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Museum Watch

Museum of Modern Art: Paul Gauguin, Maruru (Offerings of Gratitude) from the suite Noa Noa (Fragrant Scent). 1893-94. Woodcut, comp. 8 1/16 x 14". Photo by Michael Agee © Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute, Williamstown, Massachusetts

Gauguin: Metamorphoses

Museum of Modern Art, New York through June 8 This collection of 150 works by Gauguin focuses on the artist’s rare prints and transfer drawings, and their relationship to his paintings and sculptures, giving a more complete look at his artistic process.

GEORGE BRAQUE: A RETROSPECTIVE

Museum of Fine Arts, Houston through May 11 This retrospective of the artist’s career includes more than 75 works, from his early, Fauvist paintings to the Cubist works that helped to steer the course of modern art to the still lifes and landscapes of his later years.

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Georges Braque, Le canal Saint-Martin (Saint-Martin Canal), 1906, oil on canvas, Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, gift of Audrey Jones Beck. © 2014 ARS New York / ADAGP, Paris

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Miró: The Experience of Seeing Seattle Art Museum through May 26

Drawn entirely from the Reina Sofia in Madrid, this exhibition offers a fresh assessment of the late period of Miró’s work, featuring 50 paintings from 1963 through 1983 that have rarely been seen in the U.S.

The 2014 Whitney Biennial Whitney Museum, New York through May 25

Bringing together three outside curators, Stuart Comer, Anthony Elms, and Michelle Grabner, and representing different geographical perspectives and grouping philosophies across three floors of the museum, this exhibition includes 103 participants.

Made in the USA: American Masters, 1850-1970 Philips Collection, Washington, D.C. through August 31

Taken from the Philips’ renowned collection of American masterworks, this exhibition tells the story of American art from the late 19th century through the mid-20th century with over 200 works by 120 artists, including Hopper, Motherwell, and Rothko.

ChRISTOPHER WOOL Art Institutes of Chicago through May 11

Joan Miró, Woman, Bird and Star (Homage to Picasso), 1966-1973, oil on canvas.

This comprehensive examination of one of the premier abstract painters of his generation presents nearly 90 works, showcasing his range of styles and techniques.

Mike Kelley

Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles March 31 - July 28 Kelley produced an innovative oeuvre, drawing from popular culture and recent artist traditions, all in the service of examining the self and society. This is the first comprehensive survey of his work in 20 years and brings together over 200 works.

Frank Lloyd Wright and the City: Density vs. Dispersal Museum of Modern Art, New York through June 1

Frank Lloyd Wright, Grouped Towers, Chicago. Project, 1930. Perspective. Pencil on tracing paper, 19 x 28 1/4”. The Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation Archives (The Museum of Modern Art and the Avery Architectural & Fine Arts Library, Columbia University, New York)

Celebrating the museum's acquisition (with Columbia University) of the architect’s extensive archive, this initial showing includes drawings, films, and large-scale models that examine Wright’s complex relationship with the American city in the 1920s and 1930s.

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Brillian ce mee ts

march 27 – april 3, 2014

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The Art of Swiss Watchmaking

SKELETON COLLECTION 17 Jewel Swiss Unitas MVT | Rose/Gray/Rhodium Movement Sapphire Crystal | Highly Decorated Front & Back | 165 Feet WR.

$1,375 MSRP

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BE AT YOUR BEST WITH PARIS AT YOUR DOORSTEP Ideally situated in the heart of the City of Lights and facing the Tuileries Garden, The Westin Paris - Vendôme is just a few steps from the Place Vendôme and the very chic rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

Relax in one of our elegantly decorated 428 rooms and suites, featuring the perfect balance of traditional Parisian style and contemporary design and enjoy the magnificent views over Paris. “le First, restaurant boudoir paris” invites to taste authentic and inventive cuisine, in an elegant setting designed by Jacques Garcia.

Energize both the body and mind in our spa, the first Six Senses in France.

THE WESTIN PARIS - VENDÔME 3 rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris, France thewestinparis.com

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AIRMAN 17 SPHAIR, REF. 3927, AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT, 46MM, 20 ATM

continuous fine swiss watch making since 1914

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Swiss Watch Consultants LLC is the exclusive distributor of Glycine watches for the USA, Canada and the Caribbean.

For an authorized retailer near you call 603-206-5195 or e-mail info@swisswatchconsultants.com

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AM

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N WATCH G UI ICA R L E

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The American Watch Guild was founded as an unprecedented way to recognize those quality retailers, manufacturers and affiliated service companies whose standard of excellence has set them apart in the fine watch industry.

The Guild drew its inspiration from the tradition of the medieval guilds. Those associations of artisans and merchants, from goldsmiths to weavers, were formed to preserve the professionalism within their crafts and to assure buyers of quality by displaying the coveted symbol of their guild.

Today, more than ever, with over six billion dollars in counterfeit products on the market annually, membership in the Guild can separate true value from fictitious value.

Often, gold jewelry offered for sale does not reflect the Karat marking on the item, and diamonds all too often turn out to be merely zircons. Watch movements are frequently of inferior quality as well.

Membership in the American Watch Guild carries with it the commitment to the following criteria:

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For more information, please visit www.americanwatchguild.com

When you visit one of our Guild Stores, please ask for your complimentary copy of How To Buy A Watch and The Care and Service of Fine Watches.

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watch collector Audemars Piguet Royal Concept Tourbillon gmt Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon is a white ceramic Royal Oak Concept watch, a GMT Tourbillon in titanium and white ceramic upper bridge, and ceramic crown and push buttons. It contains the caliber 2930, with two barrels for a 10-day power reserve. The H (Hour), N (Neutral) and R (Remontage) indications correspond to the three positions of the winding stem, meaning time-setting, neutral and winding respectively.

Audemars Piguet 888-214-6858 www.audemarspiguet.com

O

fficine Panerai Radiomir Pocket Watch 3 Days There is an Oro Rosso and an Oro Bianco (a version in each, of red and white gold), with a hand-wound caliber P.3001/10, driven by two barrels for a 3-day power reserve. The watch has a hinged cover that can be personalized, and a sandwich dial that features a sun-brushed finish.

It was inspired by pocket watches sold by Panerai in the 1930s.

Officine Panerai 877-PANERAI www.panerai.com

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watch collector IWC Aquatimer Expedition Charles Darwin This watch has a bronze case, which is particularly useful for diver’s watches since it is uniquely salt-water resistant – in this case to 300 meters. The watch is a tribute to Charles Darwin’s exploration of the Galapagos Islands in 1835. His portrait is etched in the caseback.

It contains automatic caliber 89365 with a 68hour power reserve and a new internal/external rotating bezel.

IWC Schaffhausen 800-432-9330 www.iwc.com

Ralph Lauren Black Safari Flying Tourbillon The flying tourbillon escapement in this watch is surrounded by a black matte galvanic center with a distinctive brown elm burled wood outer bezel that is held by four screws. The dial is printed with beige, Roman numerals painted with Super-LumiNova. The caliber is the RL167, with a 4-hour power reserve. It is water resistant to 50 meters.

Ralph Lauren Watches 877-639-7934 www.ralphlaurenwatches.com

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watch collector Zenith El Primero 410 The Caliber 410 was originally created in 1969 as a variation of the legendary El Primero, combining the performance of the world’s most accurate automatic chronograph with triple calendar and moonphase indications. It is a column-wheel chronograph with a 50-hour power reserve.

Other functions include day, date, month and moonphase indications. The case is 43mm wide.

Zenith 866-675-2079 www.zenith-watches.com

Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph Montblanc’s latest collection is commemorative of its iconic writing instrument, the Meisterstück.

The movement, manual-wound caliber MB M13.21 is a monopusher chronograph. The 18k rose gold case features a sapphire caseback. The dial is silvery white with a sunburst pattern, gold-plated markers and dauphine hands. The pen collection was originally introduced in 1924.

Montblanc 800-995-4810 www.montblanc.com

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watch collector Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Resonance This hand-wound minute repeater has the largest instantaneous date display in the watch world, measuring 5.9mm wide, and 2.9mm for each numeral. A series of cams enables the disks – the same size as the dial – to jump instantaneously at midnight. It is a cathedral chime with gongs that are blued and serpent-shaped for aesthetic reasons, visible through the caseback. It contains the manual wound Caliber PF359.

Parmigiani Fleurier 305-260-7770 www. Parmigiani.ch

Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon This version of the Malte Tourbillon is fully skeletonized, with an openworked and engraved movement, the tonneau-shaped Caliber 2790 SQ. It took hand engravers over 500 hours to create this skeletonized movement. It was inspired by pocket watches created by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755 and by more modern versions of pocket watches. The watch bears the Hallmark of Geneva.

Vacheron Constantin 877-862-7555 855-729-1755 www.vacheron-constantin

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As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers.

Mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call. Visit us at www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF GRENON’S OF NEWPORT 210 Bellevue Ave. Newport, RI 02840 Tel: 401-846-0598 www.grenons.com BASEL WORLD BASEL FAIR www.baselworld.com BEDAT & CO. Akstrom Imports 5333 Casgrain Ave. Montreal, QC Canada H2T 1X3 Tel: 888-220-1777 Tel: 514-346-0944 www.akstrom.com BULGARI Tel: 800-BULGARI www.Bulgari.com BULOVA One Bulova Ave. Woodside, NY 11377 Tel: 800-228-5682 Tel: 718-204-3300 www.bulova.com

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SXC Steel SXC SXCGMT Steel SteelGMT No. GMT 5127: No. No.45.5mm, 5127: 5127:45.5mm, 45.5mm, black black PVD blackplated PVD PVDplated plated stainless stainless stainless steel case, steel steelscrew case, case,screw down screwdown crown downcrown crown & case&&back, case caseback, back, anti-refl anti-refl anti-refl ectiveective ective sapphire sapphire sapphire crystal,crystal, crystal, stainless stainless stainless steel bidirectional steel steel bidirectional bidirectional rotating rotating rotating bezel,bezel, bezel, GMT GMT function GMT function function for second for for second second time time time zone, zone, genuine zone, genuine genuine black black leather black leather leather strap strap with strapred with with contrast red red contrast contrast stitching stitching stitching and red and and lining, red red lining, lining, black black PVD blacksignature PVD PVD signature signature buckle,buckle, buckle, water water resistant waterresistant resistant to 200toto meters, 200 200meters, meters, and Luminox and andLuminox Luminox self-powered self-powered self-powered illumination. illumination. illumination.

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