Chronos Book 109 - Summer 2014 by RAJ WALIA

One adjustment every 100 years. t he kind Of cOmplicatiOn that makes life easier. For the Curious, The Collector and the Connoisseur

Summer 2014

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yO u d e s e rv e a r e a l Watc h.

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Number one hundred nine

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summer 2014

Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee. Limited series of 180. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985. the all-mechanical programming of the perpetual calendar means the next time this watch needs adjustment will be at the turn of the century in 2100. to ensure its perfect precision throughout the many years to come, jaeger-lecoultre has equipped this model with a flying tourbillon featuring a cylindrical balance-spring. the oscillating weight is finely engraved with a gold medal received in 1889 – a symbol of the pioneering spirit that has been driving the inventors of the vallée de joux for 180 years.

$6.95

Bulova Clock of Ages Jeff Koons At The Whitney Museum Eli Wallach An Enthusiastic Watch Collector

de Grisogono Instrumento Uno “Expendables”

For the Collector or Do-It-Yourselfer VISIT www.emperorCloCk.Com To See THe CompleTe lINe oF

速

CloCkS AND emperor kITS.

P 8 0 0 . 6 4 2 . 0 0 1 1

SXC Steel GMT No. 5127: 45.5mm, black PVD plated stainless steel case, screw down crown & case back, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, stainless steel bidirectional rotating bezel, GMT function for second time zone, genuine black leather strap with red contrast stitching and red lining, black PVD signature buckle, water resistant to 200 meters, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. Preferred timepiece of SXC Astronauts and Test Pilots.

www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox

SUPERFAST A MINDSET SUPERFAST POWER CONTROL A unique Chopard manufacture openworked movement

N e w Yo r k - B a l H a r b o u r S h o p s South Coast Plaza - Las Vegas 1 . 8 0 0 . C H O PA R D E x p l o r e t h e c o l l e c t i o n a t U S . C H O PA R D . C O M

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Summer 2014

No. 109

Editor's Outline

New Takes On Old Complications by Meehna Goldsmith

Supports AmericaShare

Page 36

News

43 The Color of Time by Carol Besler

16 Previews

26 de Grisogono “The Expendables 3” by Carol Besler

Bulova Clock of Ages by Carol Besler

Clock of Ages

Page 48

Amelia Island Concours by Denis L. Tanney

TUDOR’S Tough Timepieces

Red Rock Country by Beth Butler

Movado Supports AmericaShare Page 54

Amelia Island Concours

Eli Wallach The Watch Collector

Red Rock Country

68 Jeff Koons At The Whitney Museum by Meehna Goldsmith

78 Watch Collector

Page 60

Summer 2014

CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the June/July issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557

Editor'S Outline It is our intent and pleasure to provide you with stimulating and enjoyable reading with each issue of Chronos. Our stories on the watch brands presented, aim to reveal an inside picture of these companies that cannot be obtained by just viewing their advertising. A special edition of the de Grisogono Instrumento Uno was worn by the cast of the film “The Expendables 3” at a commemorative party during the International Film Festival held in Cannes this May. The red and black colors of the watch are iconic to the brand. See the story on page 26. Movado recently made a special contribution to AmericaShare, a charity that supports disadvantaged populations in East Africa affected by the HIV-AIDS epidemic. See the story on page 36 about the special evening hosted in partnership with Danny Seo an environmental life-style expert. TUDOR continues to build a fan base among watch lovers with its coveted Heritage Collection. The watches in the collection preserve the design codes of TUDOR’S iconic timepieces of the mid-century while offering performance and reliability that only new technology can provide. See the story on page 30. Certain watchmakers are exploring ways to execute a complication by making use of the dial. In doing so, they present new and inventive ways to tell us the time. Read New Takes On Old Complications beginning on page 40 to see the possibilities introduced, by the focus on the dial of several outstanding chronographs. Excitement comes to the design of watches in the use of colored gemstones. This year’s fresh crop of high jewelry watches set with colored gemstones is a refreshing change from the alldiamond jewelry watches seen over the years. This beautiful presentation, The Color of Time, starts on page 43. A tribute to Eli Wallach on page 39 describes an enthusiastic watch collector who shared a common passion for watches with our readers. A loyal supporter of Chronos, Eli was always more than willing to add his presence to our fundraising events. Each year our readers look forward to our coverage of the Amelia Island Concours held for the past 19 years on the grounds of the lush Ritz Carlton Hotel and Resort on Amelia Island. For a full description of a car show that reflects the brightness and creativeness as well as the preservation of the finest cars ever made, see the story on page 54.

Summer 2014

hermès. time reinvented.

cape cod nantucket hermès, the alchemist of time, introduces the cape cod nantucket, a radiant watch that captures light to bring a special glow to your wrist. it blithely adapts to its wearer’s whims thanks to its interchangeable strap. yet it remains forever elegant, slender and playful, revelling in the passing of time rather than fearing it, thanks to its case fashioned in silver , a silver alloy exclusive to hermès.

1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com

news Bell & Ross fêtes fans Bell & Ross hosted an intimate dinner for fans of the brand in New York City recently, to show its gratitude to a group of watch enthusiasts who share a genuine passion and appreciation for the brand. This group of successful individuals and avid collectors meets weekly to share its fascination for watches and current industry news, and the regular meetings provide a great opportunity to catch up. Stacie Orloff, president of Bell & Ross for the Americas, was on hand to welcome these old and new friends; she was pleased to share past collections, including limited editions as well as new models. The evening ended with a toast to friendship and the promise of future gatherings.

Fans of Bell & Ross gather at a recent event in New York City to view some live samples and discuss old favorites.

“Bell & Ross is always honored to meet its fans,” says Orloff, “and we look forward to hosting more of these dinners in cities across the U.S. to celebrate the shared passion for Bell & Ross instruments and to thank our devoted and discerning followers.”

Michal Fossner joins Heritage Auctions Michael Fossner has joined Heritage Auctions, New York City, as consignment director. Fossner is a Graduate Gemologist and an Accredited Jewelry Professional through the Gemological Institute of America. He also represents the fifth generation of a family in the watch business. “Michael’s passion for fine timepieces is apparent in his devotion to the trade and his scholarly pursuit of the works themselves,” says Greg Rohan, president of Heritage Auctions. “We are proud to add his expertise to this growing and dynamic category.” Fossner holds degrees in International Business and Marketing from the Robert H. Smith School of Business at the University of Maryland in College Park. Following his studies, he served six months as an apprentice for a watch dealer in Switzerland.

Michael Fossner joins Heritage Auctions as Consignment Director in New York.

Summer 2014

No. 109

PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher ASSOCIATE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind Watch & Jewelry Editor Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher PHOTOGRAPHY Keiko Makishima AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com

CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.

Schaumburg Watch Ice Crystal

Meccanico N E W Y O R K B O U T I Q U E , 8 2 4 M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W Y O R K , N Y, ( 2 1 2 ) 4 3 9 - 4 2 2 0 BAL HARBOUR BOUTIQUE, 9700 COLLINS AVENUE, BAL HARBOUR, FL, (305) 865-8765

www•degrisogono•com A L S O AVA I L A B L E AT: LONDON JEWELERS 2046 NORTHERN BLVD MANHASSET, NY (516) 627-7475

EAST p:(214)494-4241 COAST SUNNY ISLE Frisco, TX 16810 COLLINS AVENUE

WILLIAM BARTHMAN 1118 KINGS HIGHWAY BROOKLYN, NY (718) 375-1818

SUNNY ISLES BEACH, FL (305) 947-8883

EAST COAST PALM BEACH 323 WORTH AVENUE PALM BEACH, FL (561) 820-8822

GENEVA SEAL 112 EAST OAK STREET CHICAGO, IL (312) 944-3100

Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684

news Vacheron Constantin supports NYCB Vacheron Constantin sponsored New York City Ballet’s Spring Gala for the second year in a row, and introduced three one-of-a-kind ballet-themed timepieces to celebrate the occasion. The watches, from the Métiers d’Art Hommage à l’Art de la Danse collection, were created by master enamelers and watchmakers in the workshops of Vacheron Constantin. Each was inspired by a different masterpiece by French artist Edgar Degas, who depicted ballerinas in many of his works. The Gala commemorated the 50th anniversary of the opening of the David H. Koch Theater (formerly the New York State Theater), and the Company’s residence at Lincoln Center. Juan-Carlos Torres, CEO of Vacheron Constantin, was the evening’s corporate chairman. Also in attendance were honorary chairmen Julia and David H. Koch, along with gala chairmen Liz and Jeff Peek, Carol and Earle Mack, and Ide and David Dangoor. The evening’s guests included actress Kristin Bell, singer Alicia Keys and movie director Baz Luhrmann. NYCB’s Ballet master-in-chief Peter Martins welcomed the 1,100 dinner guests with a speech. “Vacheron Constantin and New York City Ballet share many values including constantly seeking excellence in our creative process,” says Torres. “Precision is achieved through dedication and the collaboration of many skilled people. We both respect our rich heritages by passing on skills and know-how to the new generation. Vacheron Constantin is delighted to lend its support to this fine institution.” Vacheron Constantin sponsored the New York City Ballet’s 50th Anniversary Gala.

A trio of watches created by Vacheron Constantin inspired by the ballerina works of artist Edgar Degas.

Summer 2014

Vacheron Constantin CEO Juan Carlos Torres with NYCB masterin-chief Peter Martins.

Movado/Imtech mg005777a Proof 1

SE® PILOT STAINLESS STEEL CHRONOGRAPH WITH 42MM CASE, BI-LEVEL BLACK DIAL, SIGNATURE DOT MOTIF BRACELET. MOVADO.COM

news

Citizen Watch opens NYC flagship Citizen Watch Company is opening a new global flagship boutique at 1500 Broadway in Times Square, New York City. “As a truly global brand, Citizen Watch Company represents people from throughout the world, so there is no better place than Times Square to share our international brand message,” says Toshio Tokura, president and CEO of Citizen Watch Co. Ltd. The store will be over 1,300 square feet, and will showcase the brand’s full range of offerings, including watches with Eco-Drive Satellite Wave technology, the Promaster Series of sports watches and the new collection of women’s watches. “It’s an exciting time for Citizen as we open our flagship store in New York and also launch our new BETTER STARTS NOW brand campaign,” says Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch Company of America. “Leveraging the strength of our proprietary Eco-Drive light powered technology where watches never need a battery, Citizen is poised to build on our success and accelerate our growth.”

The new Citizen Watch Company boutique is under construction in New York City.

Jaeger-LeCoultre salutes women filmmakers Jaeger-LeCoultre hosted a “Women Who Call the Shots” event, honoring women filmmakers, during the 20th Los Angeles Film Festival. The event, sub-titled “A Celebration of Women Directors and Showrunners,” was a tribute to women directors and showrunners who are changing the stories on the screen. JaegerLeCoultre presented the Glory to the Filmmaker award to Lisa Cholodenko, a filmmaker and Festival guest director. She received a Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin timepiece.

Los Angeles Film Festival director Stephanie Allain awards filmmaker Lisa Cholodenko with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Glory to the Filmmaker Award.

Summer 2014

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin timepiece was awarded to the winner of the Glory to the Filmmaker award.

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E c o-Dr i v e SAT E L L I T E WAVE F 1 0 0

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news Hublot Times the World Cup Hublot unveiled an updated design for the referee board for the 2014 FIFA World Cup this summer. The board, which is used by the fourth official to show the additional time periods and signal player substitutions, has been redesigned to align with Hublot’s distinctive watch design. The board maintains a weight that was strictly controlled throughout its technical development to avoid unnecessary sustained effort. Originally a utilitarian object with a practical design, the board has now become an iconic object, a symbol of time measurement. Hublot is the Official Timekeeper of the FIFA World Cup. “It is an immense honor and privilege for Hublot to have been given the opportunity to optimize the referee’s board for the 2014 FIFA World Cup,” says Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot CEO. “The joint effort comes as part of a long-term relationship which Hublot has developed with FIFA. It has given rise to an object with an innovative design.”

Hublot’s new FIFA referee’s board.

Roger Dubuis supports children’s charity Geneva watchmaker Roger Dubuis is partnering with the Emirates Airline Foundation in support of a charity initiative aimed at bringing joy and enhancing the lives of children. Roger Dubuis has donated a special edition Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon to the cause. The watch will be auctioned from August 15, 2014 to March 15, 2015. Passengers on all Emirates flights can bid for a chance to own this collector’s item by filling in a bid form during the flight. The winning bidder will be invited for a VIP visit to the Roger Dubuis manufacture in Geneva for an up-close look at the savoir-faire and mastery that go into fashioning the company’s iconic timepieces. The winner will also meet the master watchmaker who crafted the timepiece. “We are extremely proud to join hands with Emirates to make a difference in the lives of children and enable them to live brighter, happier lives,” says Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO of Roger Dubuis. “The Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon is among our finest creations and we hope to be able to raise the maximum amount for the Foundation.”

The Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon.

The timepiece is powered by the extremely technical RD01SQ movement, comprised of 301 parts that ensure greater precision thanks to a differential system that averages the rates of the two tourbillons. As with every other masterpiece from the Roger Dubuis collections, the Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon carries the Poinçon de Genève hallmark, the seal of watchmaking excellence. 14

Summer 2014

Roger Dubuis CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué and Emirates Airline Foundation board member Terry Daly.

previews Bulova Corsair 24-Hour Tripod Clock The Corsair, from the Bulova Tabletop collection of clocks, combines true 24-hour military time with contemporary tripod styling. It is crafted of solid hardwood with an espresso finish and a brushed silver-finish metal case, hardware and rod pendulum. This unique timepiece includes luminous numerals and hands, as well as a glass protective lens, and is fully adjustable from 22 inches to 29 inches in height. A coordinated curved engraving plate is included. Bulova 800-A-BULOVA www.bulova.com

TUDOR Style TUDOR’s new Style collection includes models for both men and women. The Style is a classic dress watch with a retro 1950s aesthetic. Functions include hours, minutes and a date window. The hour markers at 12 and 6 o’clock are doubled, and all of the hour indexes are beveled, as are the dauphine-style hands. This collection includes several styles and sizes, including 28mm, 34mm, 38mm and 41mm versions, in steel or two tone cases and bracelets. The black version of the dial is lacquered. Tudor 212-897-9900 www.tudorwatch.com

Seiko Prospex Kinetic GMT The new Prospex Kinetic GMT Diver’s watch is a professional sports watch that is water resistant to 200 meters. The dial is designed with legibility in mind, with three-dimensional hour markers and anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal. Seiko made its first diving watch in 1965, and pioneered several features in diver’s watches that are now widely accepted as setting the global standard, including wide arrow-shaped hands for extra legibility, and a two-piece case construction for added security. Seiko Corp. of America 800-782-2510 www.seikousa.com 16

Summer 2014

4 COUNTER S IN LINE, LIK E NO OTHER S.

C h r o n o 4 G r a n d e Ta i l l e i s a n i m a t e d b y a m e c h a n i c a l a u t o m a t i c movement distinguished by its 4 horizontally aligned counters, that enable an instant and logical readout of time: a revolutionar y device

considerable

constructive

complexity

patented

Eber hard & C o. Steel c a se, Ă&#x2DC; 4 3 mm. Water pr oof to a d ept h of 5 0 meter s .

previews Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu The case of the 60mm Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu is carved entirely out of sapphire. The 18k white gold bezel, lugs and crown are hand-chased and engraved in a highly decorative scrolled pattern. It contains the El Primero 5011K, a highprecision movement originally designed in the 1960s for marine chronometers. The dial is rendered in grand feu enamel. The oversized crown is a signature of aviator watches. It has a 48-hour power reserve. Zenith 866-675-2079 www.zenith-watches.com

Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture As part of its ongoing consolidation and strategy to use in-house movements in all of its watches (the goal is 95% manufacture calibers in its line by 2017), Ulysse Nardin reintroduced its iconic Dual Timer with an in-house caliber this year. The Dual Time Manufacture, which enables the second time zone and date to be adjusted both forward and backward, is now equipped with Caliber UN-334, with a silicon escapement. Ulysse Nardin had developed the module on a previous caliber with an ETA base. Ulysse Nardin 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com

Chopard Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Chopard has been a sponsor of the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique classic car race since 2002, and commemorates that involvement with a new full racing collection. The Chopard Grand Prix de Monaco Historique includes an Automatic, a Chronograph and a Power Control model with power-reserve indicator. The case is titanium, with a dial that is grooved and snailed, to create an impression of constant movement. The models contain yellow highlights, a typical racing color, and are water-resistant to 100 meters. Chopard USA 800-CHOPARD www.chopard.com

Summer 2014

design is of the essence

DIVE Collection REF. US104 - 42 mm titanium case, interchangeable wave rubber strap, screw down crown, waterproof 660 ft, automatic movement.

USA distribution : Tempus Group - 300 Kansas Street Suite 106 - San Francisco, CA 94103 - T 415.732.7979 - info@red8usa.com - www.red8usa.com

(9776)

previews Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Flameante Reserve de Marcha Cuervo y Sobrinos continues to celebrate its heritage by reinventing iconic watches from its archives. This one is a reinterpretation of a 1950s model with an extra-thin caliber. The mechanical hand wound movement, Caliber CYS 2010 on an ETA 7001 base, is only 4mm thick. The movement’s train wheel bridge is treated with an anthracite coating, and there is a côtes de Genève fan pattern on the bridges. It is engraved “Testimony of style since 1882.” The dial is silver with a “Flameante” guilloché pattern. Cuervo y Sobrinos 678-827-7900 www.cuervoysobrinos.com

Harry Winston Ocean Biretrograde 36mm Harry Winston developed a new complicated movement this year for its ladies’ Ocean Biretrograde, using a base movement from Blancpain, which is now a sister brand since Harry Winston’s purchase by the Swatch Group last year. The movement, which features a silicon balance-spring, includes a biretrograde seconds, as well as day/date indicator. Harry Winston Ocean Biretrograde 36mm, with a self-winding mechanical movement, uses diamond indexes for its retrograde indications. Harry Winston 800-988-4110 www.harrywinston.com

This timepiece is a companion piece to a custom motorcycle that Bell & Ross co-designed with Shaw Harley Davidson, and incorporates classical aeronautic elements, including a nose resembling the one on a jet plane. The BR 01 B-Rocket watch is a chronograph with tachymeter scale, measuring performance time in 60-second, 30-minute and 12-hour indicators. The graphic display evokes those used in experimental vehicle testing indicators, with the power reserve indicator reminiscent of fuel gauges in racing motorcycles. Bell & Ross 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com

Summer 2014

Chronos 2013 Issue 103

Bell & Ross BR 01 B-Rocket

9776

LeagasDelaney.de

(9776)

T:8.375”

Chronos 2013 Issue 103

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previews Edox Delfin The Edox Delfin, named after the Dolphin, was the first of many of the brand’s models designed for water sports such as sailing, diving and boating. The model has been newly redesigned to capture the spirit of the original model, with a classic retro-inspired case. It builds on the company’s more than 50 years of experience in the field of water resistant watches. The 43mm case features a silver aluminum ring with a “Water Champion” slogan. It contains the Edox chronograph caliber 10, and is water resistant to 200 meters. Edox www.edox.ch

Breitling Navitimer 46mm The Navitimer 46mm is an extra-large version of this iconic model that not only enhances readability but emphasizes the “épargne” black dial. The 46mm model is also available with a blue dial. In 2009, Breitling introduced its own manufacture movement, developed and produced entirely in-house. This self-winding chronograph movement, the Caliber 01, is now used in the Navitimer collection. It is an official chronometer, which means it has been rated to the highest accuracy and reliability standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. Breitling USA 877-BREITLING www.Breitling.com

Luminox P-38 Lightning GMT 9421 The P-38 Lightning is a tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twinboomed WWII fighter jet. The watch features vintage inspired styling, with a cushion shaped, 44mm case made of brushed stainless steel. It contains a Swiss-made movement, the Ronda quartz Caliber 515, which incorporates a GMT function to set a second time zone. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters. Luminox 415-455-9500 www.Luminox.com

Summer 2014

previews Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec The Patravi ScubaTec has all the attributes of a professional dive watch, with unidirectional bezel and highly legible blue markers. Even in murky waters the diver can still read the time thanks to a generous application of Super-LumiNova, which glows light blue in the dark. The unique combination of steel and two ceramic colors on the bezel was created especially for Carl F. Bucherer. It contains the automatic caliber CFB 1950.1, and is water resistant to 500 meters. Carl F. Bucherer 800-395-4306 www.carl-f-bucherer.com

TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber CH 80 The Carrera is the TAG Heuer model that is most inspired by motor racing, and the new automatic Caliber CH 80 Chronograph is the latest chronograph in the collection. It has a tri-compax dial with black chronograph counters on a white background, including a chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock, a chronograph hour totalizer at 9 o’clock and a running seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The red central hand counts chronograph seconds. The 41mm case is made of stainless steel, and is water resistant to 100 meters. TAG Heuer 800-321-4832 www.tagheuer.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic The 46mm case of this watch is made of high-tech ceramic. It contains the automatic chronograph Caliber 757, with a 65-hour power reserve. Functions include hours, minutes, date, chronograph hour and minute counters, and central seconds hand. There is a second time zone with day/night indicator. Numerals and hour markers are coated with a luminescent material. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters. The strap is black Triest calfskin. It is limited to 500 pieces. Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com Summer 2014

previews Alpina Startimer Pilot Black Star The Alpina Startimer Pilot Black Star is an automatic chronograph that takes its name from the black PVD coated stainless steel case and black dial with sunray finish. As a pilot watch, it has a high-contrast dial with oversized luminous numerals, hands and indexes. The dial is bi-compax in design, which includes an easy-toread dial layout with a 60 seconds counter at 9 o’clock and a 30 minute counter at 3 o’clock. It contains the in-house Alpina AL-860 automatic chronograph movement. The case is 44mm, and the watch is water resistant to 100 meters. In the first 50 years of the past century, Alpina was a renowned manufacturer and supplier of military aviation watches to continental air forces, and strict requirements applied to those watches. In addition to being shock resistant and extremely precise, a true pilot’s watch had to be anti-magnetic as well as extremely precise. Alpina’s timepieces met these criteria. Alpina 877-619-2824 www.alpinawatches.com

The Alpina Startimer Pilot Black Star is an automatic chronograph with a black PVD coated case

The sapphire crystal caseback of the Alpina Startimer Pilot Black Star

Summer 2014

The Art of Swiss Watchmaking

SKELETON COLLECTION 17 Jewel Swiss Unitas MVT | Rose/Gray/Rhodium Movement Sapphire Crystal | Highly Decorated Front & Back | 165 Feet WR.

$1,375 MSRP

celebrates the cast of “The Expendables 3” by Carol Besler

The film’s entire cast of legendary tough guys wears a special edition de Grisogono watch to a party in their honor

very action hero needs an elegant watch to wear not just on the red carpet, but to the parties that celebrate their latest films. Both the elegant watch and the commemorative party were provided by de Grisogono during the International Film Festival held in Cannes this May. Sylvester Stallone, Jason Statham, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Mel Gibson, Harrison Ford, Wesley Snipes, Antonio Banderas, Dolph Lundgren, Randy Couture, Kellan Lutz, Victor Ortiz, Glen Powell, Kelsey Grammer and Patrik Hughes wore a special edition 26

Summer 2014

of the de Grisogono Instrumento Uno watch to the party. It was the largest gathering of actors from a single film to appear together on the Croisette, the legendary promenade in Cannes. The event was held at the Hotel Martinez, hosted by de Grisogono founder and creative director Fawaz Gruosi. Gruosi presented each of the actors with a watch from the special series, which celebrates the 15th anniversary of the Instrumento Uno collection. The masculine timepiece has become a contemporary classic for the brand, and the limited edition Expendables 3 piece was

inspired by the the colors in the film – red and black. “The 15th Anniversary edition of our iconic Instrumento Uno pays tribute to our origins and looks to the bright future of our brand,” says Fawaz Gruosi, president and founder of de Grisogono. The red and black colors of the watch, he says, are iconic to the brand. “Black is the color of the diamonds that have set our House apart since its creation, and spearheaded the use of black diamonds in high jewelry. Red represents the strength and energy of fire, which animates and drives our passion. Be-

Movado one-of-a-kind vintage pieces were showcased during the event including a solid gold watch previously owned by Elizabeth Taylor.

The 15th Anniversary edition of the Instrumento Uno.

The caseback of the Instrumento Uno features the signature of Fawaz Gruosi. Summer 2014

Weslery Snipes.

Antonio Banderas.

Kelsey Grammer and Fawaz Gruosi.

Mel Gibson wearing his de Grisogono 15th Anniversary edition of the Instrumento Uno.

Summer 2014

celebrates the cast of “The Expendables 3”

Fawaz Gruosi, president and founder of de Grisogono, and the cast of “The Expendables” in Cannes. cause the watch has a very strong and powerful image, its association with the production of “The Expendables 3” was a natural fit.” The case is made of stainless steel that is treated with a black PVD finish. Bright red hands and Arabic numerals

contrast with the black guilloched dial. The watch is fitted with a self-winding mechanical movement, and functions include a dual time zone display and a large date display, as well as hours and minutes. The hand-stitched black alligator skin strap is lined with red leather

and inscribed on the inside with the de Grisogono logo. The signature of Fawaz is printed on the sapphire crystal caseback. The watch is limited to 100 pieces.

Summer 2014

Tudor's

Tough Timepieces

The new TUDOR Heritage Ranger with bund strap, shown with the original model from 1967.

TUDOR’s new watches are sport-inspired and geared for performance and durability

The new TUDOR Heritage Black Bay is a tribute to the original model, the TUDOR Submariner.

UDOR continues to build a fan base among watch lovers with its coveted Heritage Collection. The introductions of TUDOR’s Heritage Black Bay in blue and Heritage Ranger timepieces this year at Baselworld mark the most recent additions to the lineup. Both models offer performance and reliability that only new technology can offer while preserving the design codes of TUDOR’s iconic timepieces of the mid-century. The Heritage Black Bay for example was originally issued to

divers of the French Navy and has since become one of the most sought-after and familiar references of the TUDOR brand. The 2014 TUDOR Ranger is a modern interpretation of the collection’s heritage-style watch originally launched in 1967. The Ranger is a highperformance sports watch built for adventure and extreme conditions. It is imbued with the pioneering spirit of the far North and epic tales of sled dogs braving solitary frozen lands, and the

exploits of adventurers defying hostile environments to explore new frontiers. The robust Heritage Ranger combines technical prowess and supreme reliability in order to withstand extreme conditions. Original design elements of the Heritage Ranger include the dial color, numeral font, and the distinctive pear shaped hands. All numerals and indexes on the dial are not appliques as on other models in the Heritage line, but are hand-painted with a colored luminous Summer 2014

The new TUDOR Heritage Black Bay with black dial and blue bezel and strap, and the version with a red bezel and black strap, from the current collection.

substance to create an antique effect. The lugs of the TUDOR Heritage Ranger also echo the original in that they are drilled through to accommodate the spring bars. The new modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern updates can be seen in its wider case at 41mm as well as the introduction of several strap options, all of which come with an additional strap. The TUDOR Heritage Ranger is available in a choice 32

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of three strap styles: a brown leather bund strap with satin-finished rivets; a tobacco-hued leather strap reminiscent of dog-sled harnesses, and a steel bracelet. Each of the three options arrive with an additional adjustable fabric strap in a woven camouflage pattern (crafted by the same French artisans that produce fabric robes for the Vatican). The bund strap is made of a single piece of materi-

al that runs underneath the watch case, and is lined with alcantara for softness and comfort. The case is made of satin finished steel containing the self-winding caliber 2824, and it is waterproof to 150 meters. TUDORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Heritage Black Bay is a tribute to the original model, the TUDOR Submariner, first launched in 1954 and used by divers in the French

The new TUDOR Heritage Ranger, with woven camouflage fabric strap.

Navy. The new model retains stylistic elements of the original, including its domed dial, an imposing winding crown that was introduced on a 1958 model, and angular hands – dubbed “snowflakes” by collectors. These hands were seen on the models issued from 1969 to the early 1980s. The dial is matte black, with silver-colored luminescent hands; the bezel and crown

tube are midnight blue. The TUDOR Heritage Black Bay is available on a midnight-blue distressed leather strap or on a satin-finished and polished steel bracelet, both of which come with an additional woven fabric strap in midnight blue. It is waterproof to 200 meters. The TUDOR Heritage Chrono is the first model in the Heritage Collection

launched in 2010. It is distinctive for its highly readable orange chronograph seconds hand and indexes, as well as sleek shoulders protecting the crown and a knurled winding crown to improve the grip. It comes on a finely finished steel bracelet along with an additional fabric strap which is black, grey and orange featuring a newly developed vintage-style, seat-belt-inspired buckle. Summer 2014

TUDOR Fastrider Black Shield with leather strap, inspired by the company’s partnership with Ducati.

The TUDOR Grantour Fly-Back Chronograph, with black leather strap with micro perforations. The Grantour collection is inspired by TUDOR’s partnership with the TUDOR United SportsCar Championship.

The Heritage Chrono is a model that carries forth the spirit of the celebrated TUDOR Oysterdate Chronograph of the early 1970s. The TUDOR Pelagos is the ultimate sports watch; waterproof to a depth of 500 meters, with a strong fusion of technology and innovation. Its 42mm case is made entirely of titanium that 34

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is satin-finished, resulting in a matte sheen and a rugged look. It is equipped with a helium release valve and fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert and luminescent numerals and hands. The steel clasp on the titanium bracelet is fitted with a unique spring-loaded self-adjusting clasp mechanism developed and pat-

ented by TUDOR. Each Pelagos on a steel bracelet arrives with an additional rubber strap that comes with a flexible rubber extension. The TUDOR Fastrider Black Shield is a stealth black ceramic chronograph that is inspired by the brand’s partnership as World Timing Partner with the Italian motorcycle manufacture

TUDOR Pelagos with rubber strap.

Tudor's Tough Timepieces TUDOR Heritage Chrono with fabric strap.

Ducati. Available in black/red or black/ beige color ways, the watches feature a monobloc, high-tech ceramic case, and are waterproof to 150 meters. The selfwinding chronograph movement has a power reserve of 46 hours. The TUDOR collection of high-performance sports watches is rounded out by the TUDOR Grantour Chrono Fly-Back, a function

that allows the wearer to measure consecutive time intervals rapidly in succession. It features a stainless steel case and lockable chronograph pushers with red and black markings. The sporty strap features micro perforations. TUDOR is part of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, set up in 1945 by the eponymous founder of Rolex. TUDOR

and Rolex respectively address the high-end and premium segments of the market, and are served by a shared legacy of watchmaking expertise and an unparalleled after-sales service organization.

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Supports AmericaShare

ovado made a special contribution to the fight against HIV/AIDS in East Africa by hosting a party recently at L’Ermitage Hotel in Beverly Hills to raise awareness for AmericaShare, a charity that supports disadvantaged populations in East Africa disenfranchised by the HIV/AIDS epidemic. The party was hosted in partnership with Danny Seo, an environmental lifestyle expert and editor in chief of Naturally, Danny Seo. He is the man America turns to when they want to learn how to live a sustainable life, but with great style. He is a bestselling author and a TV personality on NBC’s The Today Show. His participation in the event included the design of hand-beaded watchbands that were made by women of the Masai tribe to raise awareness of their plight. The idea for creating the watch bands came to Danny when he traveled to Africa on a fragrance journey and to spend time with the Masai tribe for a feature in the launch issue of Naturally. The event in Beverly Hills was attended by media insiders and celebrities. Bellamy Young (“Scandal”), Francesca Eastwood, Becca Tobin (“Glee”), Britt Robertson (“Under the Dome”),

Danny Seo, Movado’s co-host of an event at the L’Ermitage Hotel in Beverly Hills for AmericaShare. 36

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The iconic watch company hosts an event to help an important African charity

Movado one-of-a-kind vintage pieces were showcased during the event including a solid gold watch previously owned by Elizabeth Taylor. Holly Robinson Peete, Max Greenfield (“New Girl”), and Ben Feldman (“Mad Men”) were among those who turned out to show their support. They enjoyed cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, and many had pictures of themselves wearing their Movado watches taken by famed photographer David Leach in the on-site photography booth. AmericaShare provides disadvantaged women and children with access to basic services through education, community outreach and empowerment programs. Through programs that facilitate sustainable change, this non-

profit organization helps orphaned and vulnerable children get a quality education, assists women in creating businesses to support their families, and helps to provide care for those affected by HIV/AIDS. AmericaShare’s administrative costs are wholly funded by Micato, a luxury African safari company based in New York City and Nairobi, which means 100% of all donations go directly to the supported projects. AmericaShare also helps families in East Africa by developing institutions that create a stronger sense of community. Harambee Center, as an example,

is a multi-purpose facility that serves as an oasis of hope for the people of the Mukuru slum of Nairobi. The buildings serve as a community center, allowing residents to gather for lectures, educational sessions and meetings. “It is such a privilege to participate in this important cause,” commented Mary Leach, chief marketing officer of the Movado Group. “I am so excited to work with Danny and to help raise awareness for AmericaShare and support the important work they are doing to transform the lives of women and children in need.” Summer 2014

Supports AmericaShare Celebrities displaying their Movado watches with bracelets made by the women of the Masai tribe at an event hosted by Movado and Danny Seo for AmericaShare. This charity supports disadvantaged populations in East Africa disenfranchised by the HIV/AIDS epidemic.

Britt Robertson of Under the Dome

Ben Feldman of Mad Men

Becca Tobin of Glee

Bellamy Young of Scandal

Actress Holly Robinson Peete

Max Greenfield of New Girl

Summer 2014

Eli Wallach An enthusiastic watch collector by Stuart Leuthner

li Wallach, the gifted character actor whose career spanned six decades, died on June 24, 2014 at his New York City home. When he was recognized by the Governors Awards in 2010, "for a lifetime's worth of incredible screen characters," Wallach addressed the crowd. "As an actor I've played more bandits, thieves, killers, war lords, molesters and mafiose than you can shake a stick at." The son of Jewish immigrants, Eli Wallach was born on December 7, 1915 in Brooklyn, New York. After earning a master's degree at City College of New York he studied acting at the Neighborhood Playhouse. During World War II, Wallach served five years, first in Hawaii and then in Europe as a medical administration officer. Returning to New York, Wallach was a founding member of the famed Actors Studio and made his Broadway debut in 1945. His theatre credits include Mister Roberts and The Teahouse of the August Moon. For his performance in Tennessee William's play, The Rose Tattoo, Wallach

won a Tony Award. In 1956, Wallach appeared for the first time on the silver screen in the Elia Kazan directed film Baby Doll, followed by more than ninety other films. Throughout his career, he starred alongside many of Hollywood's superstars including Marilyn Monroe, Clark Gable, Clint Eastwood and Al Pacino. He is probably best known for his portrayal of two of cinema's most unforgettable characters, Calvera in The Magnificent Seven and Tuco in The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. Unknown to the majority of his fans, one of Wallach's passions was collecting antique clocks and watches. His first acquisition was a watch he won in a card game on a troop ship returning from Europe to the U.S. "From then on," Wallach explained, "everywhere I went in the world to make a film, I would look for an out-of-the-way watch shop and buy an old timepiece that interested me." When his friends discovered Wallach's hobby, they were soon adding to his collection. A Cartier clock was a gift from Walter and Carol Matthau, Zero Mostel

and Groucho Marx gave him wristwatches and his Movado Museum watch was a gift from the designer, Nathan George Horwitt. When filming was completed for The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, Sergio Leone presented Wallach with a Baume & Mercier watch fitted with a unique chain bracelet that the actor displayed in a glass case. It was Wallach's fascination with timepieces that led to his relationship with Bert Kalisher and Chronos magazine. A loyal supporter of the magazine, Wallach's collection was showcased in several articles and at several exhibits sponsored by the American Watch Guild. Chronos has a long relationship with Sloan-Kettering Hospital and Wallach was always more than willing to add his presence to fundraising events. Everyone at Chronos will miss Eli. In addition to his remarkable acting talent, his enthusiasm, kindness and fascination with horology turned what began as a business relationship into a genuine friendship. Summer 2014

New Takes on Old Complications by Meehna Goldsmith

Though watchmaking is typically a conservative industry that feels most comfortable working within a historical context, certain watchmakers are exploring new and inventive ways to expand the conversation by offering unique and visually surprising ways to execute a complication on the dial.

T Christophe Claret Margot Women’s Watch

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he minute repeater traces its roots to the 17th century, invented in a time before electric lighting. If it was dark, a slider on the side of the case could activate a spring that would reveal the time through the sound of hammers hitting gongs inside the movement. At Basel 2014, master of the chiming watch, Christophe Claret, presented Margot, a women’s watch that employs a gong in the game of “He Loves me… He loves me not” kinetically acted out on the dial. With each press of the pusher at 2 o’clock

Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtimer, hand painted travel watch

the gong sounds as daisy petals randomly disappear under the dial until the answer of the gentleman’s love is finally revealed at 8 o’clock in French. While Margot is not a typical minute repeater, per se, it is a groundbreaking use of sound in timekeeping. Since Louis Cottier introduced the first true worldtime watch in 1950, not much has changed, mostly because it’s a brilliant way to view all the world’s time zones with a glance. Louis Vuitton has invented a novel way to capture a global view of time with the Escale Worldtime. Instead of utilizing two hands, the watch employs only one, which is painted onto

the crystal and points to 12 o’clock representing home time. Once the painted concentric circles of the hours and minutes are aligned, the circular rings of the other cities, which are inspired by historic monograms used on the Louis Vuitton trunks, fall into place. All the rings are hand painted using 38 colors and the process takes over 50 hours to complete. This is a truly artistic and clever implementation of the worldtime function. From its beginnings, a chronograph measured intervals of time with subdials on the face of the timekeeper. DeBethune turns this expectation on its head with the introduction of the DB29 Maxichrono

Tourbillon by enlisting 3 chronograph hands placed concentrically to the hours and minutes hands to do the job of the subdials. The layout separates out the elapsed time of seconds, minutes and 24 hours, extending from the usual 12, to concentric rings nested inside each other. A monopusher chronograph, it keeps the graceful lines of simplicity by situating the pusher co-axial to the crown at 3 o’clock to stop, start and reset the chronograph. Ensuring accuracy DeBethune included their 36,000 VPH 30-second Tourbillon composed of silicon and titanium, which is one of the fastest and lightest on the market. Summer 2014

New Takes on Old Complications

The Pita Barcelona Roadster Chronograph

DeBethune DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon Chronograph

Independent Mexican watchmaker Pita Barcelona has taken the idea of the racing inspired chronograph to a new aesthetic interpretation with the Pita Barcelona Roadster. Though still using indicators on the dial, they are laid out in a fashion that doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t approximate but actually realizes the dashboard instrumen42

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tation in a racecar. Pita Barcelona placed the chronograph minute and hour counters in a configuration mimicking the dashboard of a car, with the position of the hands starting at 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. As a driver needs to concentrate on the road, indicators must not only be clean and minimalistic but also easily discernible so that a

glance reveals the necessary information in fractions of a second. Pita Barcelona achieved this by coloring the chronograph functions a bright red against the black and white background of the time. Because the brand is an independent, it can offer the special service of personalizing a watch.

The Color of Time

Colored Gemstones invigorate the high jewelry watch by Carol Besler

The Graff High Jewelry Butterfly Watch is set with 78 emeralds, rubies or sapphires and surrounded by diamonds. The movement is quartz, and the white gold buckle on the black satin strap is set with 22 diamonds. If a butterfly lands on you, it is said to be good luck, and in Chinese culture two butterflies flying together symbolize love.

s it ever possible for a woman to get tired of diamonds? Maybe not, but as someone who has seen hundreds of all-diamond jewelry watches over the years, I will say that this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fresh crop of high jewelry watches set with colored gemstones are a refreshing change. The high jewelry watch is no longer just about diamonds but also about sapphires, emeralds, rubies, amethysts, spinels and more. Alone or in combination with diamonds, colored gems are adding new dimension and artistry to watches. They also Summer 2014

Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Haute Joaillerie Ref. 4909/110 Aquatic Life, invisibly set with about 2,000 gems, including baguette diamonds, round brilliant diamonds and nearly 44 carats of blue sapphires. The sapphires are set in rose gold, and form a series of fish-shaped motifs. It contains the manually wound Caliber 16-250.

have the capability of becoming a more essential part of the design than diamonds when the goal is to create a composition on the dial, such as a butterfly or flower. As with diamonds, the convention in using colored gems in watches is to source the highest quality stones possible and recut them to accommodate not only the design but the proportions of the watch. Setting gemstones into the corner of a lug or around the inside of a bezel, for example, can be tricky, calling for very fine tolerances. This is particularly true if they are to be invisibly set, which requires each gem to be precisely grooved at a measured position in the pavilion to within tolerances of 100ths of a millimeter. The goal is to set each invisibly cut gem at exactly the same height, with no metal showing 44

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The Color of Time

Chopard Happy Diamonds Butterflies watch is in 18k white gold with 35 brown and white diamonds on the dial and has 88 pastel blue sapphires and 9 brown diamonds in a butterfly pattern, 78 diamonds on the bezel and case, and seven mobile diamonds between two sapphire crystals over the dial.

between the stones, creating a smooth, paved surface. Timepieces with invisibly set gemstones are automatically valued higher than other jeweled watches, and usually made in series that are more limited. Some gems are harder than others, which means they are less likely to chip, and that makes them ideal for timepieces. Nothing is harder than a diamond, but second to the diamond is the sapphire, in all its colors, including red ruby. A ruby is just a red sapphire, and aside from blue, all other colors are called fancy sapphires. Quartz is also reasonably hard, which means all of its varieties, including citrine and amethyst, can also take some knocks. It must be said, however, that jewelry watches are not meant for the squash Summer 2014

This is not a gem-set watch, but the Hermès Arceau Millefiori delivers such a burst of color that we have included it here. The dial was created by combining layers of crystal canes applied to enamel, formed in a pattern that resembles the Millefiori paperweights from the Cristalleries Saint-Louis, and uses the same technique. The result resembles a bed of flowers. The prestigious Cristalleries Saint-Louis is the oldest glassmaker in France.

Rolex introduced several gem-set versions of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34, in 18k yellow, white and Everose gold. The dials are entirely paved with diamonds, and the bezels are set with baguette cut pink sapphires on the yellow gold version, blue sapphires on the white gold version and brilliant cut diamonds on the Everose version. They are water resistant to 100 meters and contain the Rolex Caliber 2236, a self-winding movement with a Syloxi hairspring, made exclusively for ladies’ watches.

Summer 2014

The high jewelry Bulgari Diva collection is inspired by the golden age of silver screen legends and celebrates Bulgari’s close links to celebrities. Combinations of gemstones include turquoise, diamonds, emeralds, tourmalines and colored pearls.

The Color of Time

The De Grisogono Allegra is available with several options of gem set cases and dials with color matched multi-strand leather bracelets. Case options include gold or steel, and the dial can be either tinted mother-ofpearl, or lacquer in black or white. Gemstone options include emeralds, diamonds, pink or red spinels, yellow sapphires, tsavorites, orange sapphires, pink sapphires and amethysts.

court. They are designed for more genteel endeavors such as dinner and red carpet appearances. Companies whose original expertise is the manufacture of jewelry have been at the forefront of the rejuvenation of high jewelry watches. Many of them are also

leading the watch industry at the moment as the creators of innovative mechanical movements. Included in this group are Graff, Chopard, Bulgari, Cartier and others. But even elite watch brands such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, whose focus is menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watches, are also in the business

of creating exceptional ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; pieces, and both have also introduced jewelry watches set with colored gemstones this year. The following colorful timepieces debuted at Baselworld this year, and will be produced in very limited editions. Summer 2014

Clock of Ages Bulova celebrates its 100-plus years as a clock maker by Carol Besler

In a late 1950s photo, Bulova president, Harry Henschel (left) and General Omar Bradley, chairman of the board (right), pose with Bulovaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first clock radio, made in 1928, and a contemporary version. Holding the rank of five-star General in the U.S. Army, Bradley was also the first chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff. He joined Bulova in 1953 and became Chairman five years later.

Summer 2014

The Rowayton (style B1656), from the Bulova Mantel Chime Collection, is crafted of solid hardwood with a brown cherry finish with a bronze-finish metal pendulum, case and hardware. The dial features large nautical-style numerals and a red sweep seconds hand, and is protected by a glass lens. The Harmonic 2 triplechime movement plays a choice of Westminster, Ave Maria or Bim-Bam melodies on the hour, with a quarter-hour Westminster chime and strike, volume control and night shut-off. For added versatility, the tripod is adjustable.

ulova is so well-known as one of the world’s premier watch companies that few are aware of its roots as one of America’s longstanding makers of clocks. The company was founded in 1875 in New York City, long before the wristwatch was invented, and soon became a respected name in mechanical clockworks and ornate, decorative clocks for the home. Since its founding, the company has remained at the forefront of technology in the field of clock making, for which it has won numerous awards. Among

Bulova’s notable innovations was the world’s first clock radio in 1928, as well as some of the earliest known electric clocks, beginning in 1931. Bulova also created one of the world’s first photofinish clocks, soon a mainstay at track events, called the Phototimer, in 1948. Today, Bulova is a major manufacturer of precision wristwatches, with global distribution, but it has never stopped innovating as a clock maker. The company specializes in clocks for the home and office, with each designed as an important element of decor in addition to serving as a precision timing

The Stratford (style B1654) is from the Bulova Mantel Chime Collection. It is crafted of solid hardwood with a dark weathered stain, glass lens, antique brass-finish pendulum and accents, and has a metal dial with sandblast-finish frosted corner designs. It contains a Harmonic 2 triple-chime movement that plays a choice of Westminster, Ave Maria or Bim-Bam melodies on the hour, with a quarter-hour Westminster chime and strike, volume control and night shut-off. An engraving plate is included.

instrument. Bulova has created a clock style for every taste and budget, including wall clocks, mantle clocks, travel clocks, desk clocks and table clocks. Materials range from metals to hardwood, finished in a variety of ways, including a weathered vintage look, with decorative detailing. But the real magic lies in the chimes. Bulova chiming clocks are designed to announce the time in a choice of chimes and melodies that add a magical quality to the home or office. On the next few pages, we bring you a sneak peek at what’s new in the world of Bulova clocks.

The perfectly antiqued Warrick III (style B7663), from the Bulova Mantel Chime Collection, is crafted of solid wood and wood veneer with a weathered natural oak finish, an antique pewterfinish bezel ring and pendulum, and has a crackle-finish dial with Roman numerals. The Harmonic 2 triple-chime movement plays Westminster, Ave Maria or Bim-Bam melodies on the hour, with adjustable volume control and night shut-off. A quarter-hour Westminster chime and strike are available, and it includes a protective glass lens and an engraving plate.

Summer 2014

Clock of Ages The Mosaica (style C4104), from the Bulova Wall Clock Collection, is distinguished by its individual mosaic case inserts and raised mosaic hour markers. It is crafted in metal with a burnished bronze finish and includes a protective glass lens.

The classically elegant Valeria (B2026), from the Bulova Tabletop Collection, features a gold-finish metal skeleton movement and pendulum, both of which are visible through glass inserts in the front and sides. It is crafted in solid wood with a high gloss finish over burl veneer and walnut stain, with contrasting matte black split columns and polished gold-finish inlaid accents, feet and capitals. It includes an engraving plate.

Summer 2014

The St Louis (style B1655), from the Bulova Mantel Chime Collection, has a Harmonic 2 triple-chime movement, playing a choice of Westminster, Ave Maria or Bim-Bam melodies on the hour. It is crafted of solid hardwood in a brown cherry finish with glass lens. An antiqued copper design on top coordinates with a raised front panel insert that can be removed for an oversized copper engraving plate, making it a perfect presentation gift. It also features a quarter-hour Westminster chime and strike, volume control, night shut-off and an additional standard engraving plate.

050_30

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050_300_Wing_8.375x10.875_Chronos 1

20.05.14 15:11

May 31 - june 1, 2014

by Lars Anders

The CHRONOS Award For Timeless Elegance at the June 1st, 2014 Greenwich Concours d’Elegance Europa was presented to this 1929 Minerva AK Town Car "Sport". The car was coentered by Mark Snyder & Harry Pate of Time Passages Restoration in Altoona, Pennsylvania. Photo by Greg D. Merksamer

The CHRONOS Award for Timeless Elegance at Saturday's May 31st, 2014 Greenwich Concours d’Elegance America was given to this 1931 Chrysler Imperial Dual Cowl Phaeton shown by Charles & Kathy Hand. Photo by Greg D. Merksamer

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Photo by: Gregg Merksamer

Exhibiting at the Greenwich Concours dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Elegance, Michael Maniatis is shown with the Tiger Moth, a monoplane that he is building and will fly at the Rhinebeck Aerodrome during the summer.

Bruce Wennerstrom, founder and director of the Concours dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Elegance, a gathering of the finest American and European cars, presenting an award for outstanding automotive reporting to Chronos Magazine. Bertram Kalisher, the publisher of Chronos Magazine is accepting the award for reporter Stuart Leuthner.

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Amelia Island Concours Article and Photography by: Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor

Four examples of the 15 or so of one of the featured marques: McLaren Race cars. These awesomely powerful Can Am Racers set many records and took many wins in the sports car world back in the late 1960’s-1970’s.

t is hard to believe that 19 years have come and gone already for this Concours. Bill Warner, its founder and creator put together a car show that would be something a little different, yet reflect the brightness and creativeness, as well as preservation of the finest cars ever made. That last phrase can be debated over and over, but for the most part these cars have always been highly regarded in the car show arena. They are at times

Summer 2014

strange conceptions of someone’s mind or just a rolling piece of sculpture that was then and still is a prized article to ogle at. Whatever you the viewer or collector want to term it, this show has it all and in spades! For nineteen years Warner has put on a spectacular show, one that seems unable to rival itself the next year, but somehow outshines the year before. This year was no exception. Taking Best of Show in the Concours

D’Elegance category was the 1937 Horch 853 owned by Ann and Bob Brockinton Lee from Sparks, Nevada. The Best in Show Concours de Sport went to the 1958 Scarab from The Revs Institute for Automotive Research, Naples, Florida. Both cars were outstanding examples of their breed. With close to 330 cars this year, Amelia was pretty much maxed-out in terms of space. Being able to review the

Former race team owner, race photographer and writer, all around great guy, and one of the innovators in design for race cars (designed among others the Daytona Cobra), Peter Brock stands with two amazing examples of his work when he was with Carroll Shelby in the 1960’s. They are the 1965 Shelby (Mustang) GT 350 cars Peter helped to create based on the Ford Mustang fastback.

cars that won awards is a challenge alone as so many of the owners have so much history to share about their vehicles it makes it hard to be able to absorb so much in an afternoon. Walking the grounds of the lush Ritz-Carlton Hotel and Resort here on Amelia Island is a wonderful experience. Even if you are not into cars, the grounds of this hotel make the entire weekend a delight. The back of the hotel for instance fronts the Atlantic Ocean and large sofas and overstuffed chairs surround large fire pits that give off plenty of warmth even in colder weather or when the ocean breeze becomes too much. The view is glorious. One can enjoy hot coffee, a beer, or a drink and food while socializing with friends new and old. Now in the front of the hotel, there is a drive that leads you up to the front doors where attendants dressed for the job greet you and handle all your needs until you check in. The abundance of cars spread out in front makes this scene even more wonderful. Then you gaze down on the lush green 18th hole of the golf course and think you are in heaven. The whole atmosphere is one of surrealism to most visitors. The feeling of being in the south is the most prevalent and the warmth of the locals makes everyone feel right at home. But we are here for a car show so let’s talk

about that instead. This year, we saw a plethora of McLarens, as they were a featured marque along with Offenhauser engine Indy cars, The Underslung and several of the Chrysler Concept cars of the 1950’s. The special selection of these cars adds

flavor to the show and it always gives the spectator a chance to view cars that he or she has known or seen in photos but never in real life. Then there were the orphans, as Warner likes to call them. These are cars and bikes that most of us never heard of or ever saw before. The orphan bikes included such manufacturers as: the 1905 Erie, the 1908 Apache or the 1913 Flescher Flyer, the 1914 Elk, and the 1901 Steffey Motorbike. All were hits with the crowd. We need to acknowledge the money this event brings in for charities. There isn’t a concours in this country that doesn’t give money back to its community in some fashion and Amelia is included when it comes to certain charities. As an example this past year, the event raised enough money to be the single highest donor to the Spina Bifida Foundation in Jacksonville, Florida. In addition, donations were also made to The Navy Maine Corp Relief Society and Shop With Cops. All these charities profit from this event. That alone makes it something special. Add in the cars and the auctions and the food and the people and the entire weekend and you have a scenario hard to beat any place else, over a three day period. I mention it every year, and I know those reader who follow my writings will ask why does he repeat himself

The two best in shows: The 1958 Scarab, on the left, owned by The Revs Institute for Automotive Research, Naples, Florida took the Concours de Sport award while the 1937 Horch 853, on the right, won the Concours de Elegance award and this car is owned by Anne and Bob Brockinton Lee, from Sparks Nevada.

Summer 2014

The 1931 Maserati Type V 4 from the collection of Greenwich, Connecticut collector Lawrence Auriana. This car won the Zagato Award for The Most Outstanding Zagado Bodies Car.

each year. However, the importance of the judges is crucial and the mere fact that Bill Warner at age 70 can recite the names, hometowns, and specialties of each and every one of his nearly 100 judges with no notes, no crib sheets, just a firm mind always blows me away. It ainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t easy, but Warner comes off like he is giving you the names and history of his own kids. A wonderful talent, and one that allows him to stand out among his peers. Bill was and still is an outstanding motorsports photographer, entrepreneur, businessman, community leader and all around great guy to be friends with. Friendly, and informative, and always there to help when you need him. So it is not surprising that this concours reflects his personality to a tee. His selection of cars is always worth marveling at. He draws from all years and all corners of the world. We saw everything from Cords and Bentleys to Jaguars to Mercedes Benz to Underslung This absolutely lovely 1931 Cord L-29 of Judy and Ed Shoenthaler from Oak Brook, Illinois rolls down the hill to be placed in its showing position on the field.

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The 1936 MG PB of Jan and Reed Tarwater, Greenfield, Indiana.

The 1912 Packard 30 Racer of Sandy and Brian Blain from Visalia, California.

One of my all time favorite race cars: the 1955 Maserati 250F. The car is owned by Linda and Bill Pope out of Paradise Valley, Arizona and took the award for Best In Class: 100th Anniversary of Maserati (Race).

Summer 2014

Amelia Island Concours

The 1961 Dean Van Lines Special Roadster of the late Indy driver Eddie Sachs. Of course the power was the mighty Offenhauser engine up front. This particular car is owned by Gary Bahre from Alton, New Hampshire. Gary so happens to own many collectible cars as well as the New Hampshire Speedway.

Pictured is the wonderfully sexy 1934 Bugatti Type 57, of Christopher Ohrstrom, The Plains, Virginia. This car took the Best New Coachwork or Re-creation and was awarded The Judge John North Trophy.

Pictured on the right is 2014 Amelia Island Concour Honoree: Sports Car and Formula One driver, Jochen Mass, with Amelia Island Concour founder, Bill Warner.

to Ferrariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to celebrating 100 years of Maserati to a number of odd balls and regulars that make this concours so unique. There are three full days of auction action for those looking to acquire vehicles. There are test drives of various manufacturers like Porsche and Mercedes and Lamborghini. There are 58

Summer 2014

fashion presentations and a room where you can sample fine stereos from famous maker Macintosh and even the great watch maker Breitling offers a selection of time pieces for sale and rides in their stunt plane for those of strong heart and stomach. But one of the key draws each year are the two symposiums that are put on. This year, on Friday afternoon,

The interior and dash area of the 1937 Horch 853.

the Great Offy Drivers with driver and announcer David Hobbs which included such luminaries on the panel as: Johnny Rutherford, Bobby Unser, Al Unser, Sr., Parenlli Jones, and Louis Meyer, Jr. Then on Saturday, the seminar was billed as The Merchants of Speed with panelists Tyler Alexander, John Mecom, Bobby Rahal, Ray Evernham, Alwin

The mighty Offenhauser engine was one of this years featured marques and here is one of 15 Offy engine Indy roadster race cars on the show field.

Judged Best In Motorcycle Class was this 1905 Erie owned by Paul Ousey from Huntington, NY.

Springer and Bob Tullius. Both of these seminars were sold out in minutes flat. Standing room only in a huge ballroom with hundreds of people listening closely to stories and antidotes about the ‘good old days’. We can’t support this event without mentioning the contribution the Automotive Fine Art Society and

the number of creative artists exhibiting their work from wood to metal to oils to about everything including plastics. An overflowing of talent and creativity, and all the works are for sale. This Concours is outstanding in this writers mind. Why? Because it is creative and lively and unpretentious. The program alone is worth the price

of admission with gobs of great stories and history and wonderful information. This event is fun and exciting and draws massive crowds. It should be on everyone’s bucket list. Make sure to put it on yours.

Summer 2014

Red Rock Country Story by Beth Butler Photographs by Michael Stewart

Summer 2014

Nighttime at Sorrel River ranch

tah is a world away from New York City and we were long overdue for a vacation immersed in high desert beauty. Flying into Salt Lake City, we looked forward to unwinding on a picturesque drive to Zion National Park. It is pure therapy to glide through the desert with no traffic at posted speeds of

85 mph. Always changing, at times the land is flat and covered with sage brush; ghostly dust devils and tumbleweeds skitter across the road. Later ranches appear along stretches of gentle hills dotted with grazing horses and cattle. Closer to our destination, deep in cowboy country, the landscape turned to sculpted red rocks and petrified trees.

Summer 2014

Sorrel River Ranch Greenhouse

The highlight of our trip was our arrival in Slickrock Country. As we left the Interstate and the incredible Book Cliffs Mountains in our rearview, the landscape on both sides of the fast two-lane highway quickly morphed from broad desert plain to rising canyon walls composed of a hundred different hues of tan, red and purple sandstone. The dome of Arches National Monument swelled to our left, while on the right a thousand-foot cliff with hanging canyons guided us down to the Colorado River. Just beyond lay the small, quirky but bustling town of Moab. Moab is an exciting destination; the main street is lined with shops offering ATV and Jeep rentals, mountain biking, white water rafting and rappelling tours. One afternoon in Canyonlands National Park we took the SUV straight down a cliff on a switchback, one-lane dirt road that landed us on the floor of Dead Horse Canyon. The ride was a thrill but simply being there, in such deeply moving landscape, remains the true gift for me. Staying at Sorrel River Ranch allowed us to stay in harmony with the landscape. Situated seventeen miles upriver from 62

Summer 2014

Moab, the ranch is surrounded by red cliffs with its cabins nestled against the banks of the Colorado River. The service is at a level considerably above what one would expect from a ranch; offering curbside bellhops, poolside wait service and a top spa experience.

Bison at Zion Mountain Ranch

Our charming log cabin had all the modern amenities and struck a pleasing balance between rustic and luxurious â&#x20AC;&#x201D; authentic, gorgeous and 100 percent old west. The bed was a huge pine four-poster that looked hand crafted. On the wall above it hung a real pair of steer horns

Cabin at Zion Mountain Ranch

joined by hand-crafted leather. From the new, yet old-looking oak planked floor, to the artsy barbed wire chandelier, to the Wild West poster in the kitchen and the lariat hanging above the couch, every detail was a delight — a surprising switch

from the interior decorating tastes to be found in most luxury hotels. Sitting on our cabin porch, still glowing from a spa visit, I saw an eagle playing with a raven over the river. It landed on a tiny sand island for a drink of water before

The Needles section of Canyonlands National Park, Utah

soaring off into the woods. Those few moments made my trip… until dinner! Sorrel’s River Grill restaurant was a welcome change from the usual casual dining experience. Superior service, classic décor and breathtaking views enhanced a broad menu and wine list. I had been craving the local trout and they prepared it perfectly with vegetables from their own garden. As we explored the expansive 240-acre property, we visited the Sorrel River Farm. Though obviously productive, with a large country-style greenhouse that somehow reminded me of England, it was also clearly laid out in a generous, spacious pattern, inviting guests to wander between the bean vines and brussel sprouts. While at Sorrel we also took advantage of the ranch bikes to ride a winding path along the river. Lots of activities, horseback riding and guided tours were available, much too much to do in one week. The ranch house has a nice shopping facility and a lounge with stunning views, board games and comfy leather couches. The pool’s hot tub and s’mores around the fire pit are popular after dinner. On the Summer 2014

Zion National Park, Utah

Beth Butler and Michael Stewart on a trail ride Meadow Creek Canyon, Zion Mountain Ranch, Utah

Summer 2014

Red Rock Country way home, we started a list of the friends and family we might invite to share the experience next time. It was all too good to keep to ourselves. But Moab had not been our first stop in Utah. Earlier, on the way down from Salt Lake City, we had stopped at Sorrel’s “sister” ranch, Zion Mountain Ranch, on the west side of the state near Zion Na-

ther into the desert spirit. The master bedrooms, one on each side of the great room, were quiet, luxurious retreats. An inviting spa tub and sauna/massage room proved so necessary after long days conquering the outdoors. Breakfast in the sunlit formal dining area and coffee on the adjoining spacious deck, always in the presence of uninterrupted

covered the gorgeous Red Canyon before continuing on to the fantasy castle peaks of Bryce Canyon National Park. Nights in the desert are chilly and we were happy to return to the ranch for sunset dinners at the Buffalo Grill. The food was simple and delicious with vegetables fresh from their organic garden. We settled next to the wood burning stove with

canyon views, completed our perfect morning. Eager to tour the ranch before heading off to Zion National Park, we walked down to the horse corral for a two-hour horseback ride. Our cowboy guide told stories of his adventures on Zion’s trails and shared insider tips as we rode out past the buffalo herd to a further edge along the rim. The next five days were filled with spectacular hiking along ridges, through river washes and into slot canyons. Zion is fifteen minutes from the ranch. Less than an hour in the other direction, we dis-

a glass of wine and watched the buffalo graze. After dinner a fire pit tempted us to stay outside under brilliant stars just a little longer. A week after this we headed back to the city we call home. Yet a part of that magical red rock landscape must have stuck to us somehow, because even now, while the sounds of the city float up to my window, all I have to do is close my eyes and in an instant I am back, sitting on in that porch swing next to the river, watching that eagle soar off into the woods.

Bryce Canyon, Utah

tional Park. That first morning, fresh out of the city, we awoke early to a strange sensation – wind rustling the leaves and bird songs. We felt so lucky to be staying at the resort’s premier accommodation, the Canyon Rim Spa Lodge. I grabbed my husband and the quilt from our bed and we settled in the great room, under a cathedral ceiling, facing a panoramic view of sunrise over Meadow Creek Canyon. Sunshine warmed the carved raw wood paneling and filled the room with woodsy perfume. The comfortable elegance of this cabin relaxed our senses drawing us fur-

Summer 2014

Museum Watch

Max Pechstein, Beach at Nidden (Strand bei Nidden),1911; oil on canvas, 19.5" x 28.5". Los Angeles Museum of Art. ÂŠ Max Pechstein Estate / ARS, New York Photo ÂŠ 2013 Museum Associates / LACMA

EXPRESSIONISM IN GERMANY AND FRANCE: FROM VAN GOGH TO KANDINSKY Los Angeles County Museum of Art through September 14

Seeking to illuminate the Expressionist movement, this presentation of ninety paintings and 45 works on paper demonstrates the cultural dialogue between the artists of this period.

JEFF KOONS: A RETROSPECTIVE Whitney Museum of American Art through October 19

A pioneer of the readymade who has tested the boundaries between art and mass culture, Koons and his important place in contemporary art is emphasized in this survey of over 150 of his art objects.

MADE IN L.A. 2014

13 Most Wanted Men: Andy Warhol and the 1964 World's Fair

Hammer Museum, Los Angeles through September 7

Queens Museum, New York through September 7

The museum's biennial, curated in part by Michael Ned Holte, whose criticisms of the previous biennial served as the foundation for this iteration, features 35 works by emerging and under-recognized artists from the City of Angels.

Anchored by Warhol's scandalous presentation of enlarged mug shots as art at the famous 1964 New York World's Fair, this exhibition examines his work during that year and includes photos and other documentation from the artist's Factory and the Fair itself.

Summer 2014

Installation view: "Italian Futurism, 1909–1944: Reconstructing the Universe," Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, New York. Photo: Kris McKay © Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation

ITALIAN FUTURISM, 1909-1944: Reconstructing the universe Guggenheim Museum, New York through September 1

The first comprehensive look at the art movement to be presented in the United States, this multidisciplinary collection of 300 works shows the chronology of Futurism from its beginning in F.T. Marinetti's manifesto to its demise during World War II.

UNBOUND: CONTEMPORARY ART AFTER FRIDA KAHLO Museum of Contemporary Art, Chicago through October 5

Using Frida Kahlo's work as a starting point, this exhibition attempts to create a dialogue about contemporary art by featuring artists that share the artist's "spirit of rebellion" and her focus on the themes of gender, representations of the body, and political art.

magritte: The mystery of the ordinary, 1926-1938 Art Institute of Chicago through October 13

Paul Cézanne, Still Life with Apples and a Glass of Wine,1877-79, oil on canvas, 10 1/2 x 12 7/8 in. Philadelphia Museum of Art: The Louise and Walter Arensberg Collection, 1950

This first major museum show to focus on the artist's inventive and experimental years brings together over 100 works that help contextualize the artist's later work through its focus on his prevailing themes.

Art Institute of Chicago: René Magritte, Time Transfixed, 1938, Joseph Winterbotham Collection. © C. Herscovici, London / ARS

Summer 2014

The Whitney Museum Shines a Light on Jeff Koons by Meehna Goldsmith

The Whitney Museum Photograph by Ed Lederman

Summer 2014

The Whitney Museum in New York has curated approximately 120 examples of Koons’s work over the timeframe of 1979 to the present. It is the most extensive exhibit ever to showcase his groundbreaking work.

ven if you are not in the art world, you are probably familiar with the name Jeff Koons and have seen his artwork. Some of his iconic pieces include Rabbit (1986), Michael Jackson and Bubbles (1988) and Balloon Dog (1994-2000). Throughout his 35-year

Jeff Koons, Michael Jackson and Bubbles, 1988. Porcelain; 42 x 70 1⁄2 x 32 1⁄2 in. (106.7 x 179.1 x 82.6 cm). Private collection. © Jeff Koons

career Koons has become one of the most influential, if controversial, artists of the postwar era. It is hard to believe that until now Koons has never been the subject of a retrospective to examine the whole scope of his career. The Whitney Museum in New York has curated approxi-

mately 120 examples of Koons’s work over the timeframe of 1979 to the present. It is the most extensive exhibit ever to showcase his groundbreaking work. So important is Koons’s influence that for the first time in its history the Whitney has dedicated a substantial part of its space to display the oeuvre Summer 2014

Jeff Koons, Split-Rocker (Orange/Red), 1999. Polychromed aluminum; 13 1/2 x 14 1/2 x 13 in. (34.3 x 36.8 x 33 cm). Collection of B. Z. and Michael Schwartz. ©Jeff Koons.

DeBethune DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon Chronograph

Jeff Koons, Inflatable Flowers (Short Pink, Tall Purple), 1979. Vinyl, mirrors, and acrylic; 16 x 25 x 18 in. (40.6 x 63.5 x 45.7 cm). Collection of Norman and Norah Stone. © Jeff Koons

Summer 2014

Jeff Koons, Aqui Bacardi, 1986. Oil inks on canvas; 45 x 60 in. (114.3 x 152.4 cm). Ostrow Family Collection. ÂŠJeff Koons.

of just one artist. Moreover, Koons has the distinction of being the closing finale in the Marcel Breuer building before the Whitney moves to its new location downtown in the Meatpacking District, set to open in 2015. Not many artists can straddle the fine art world and the common consciousness. Koons has experimented with ideas and techniques that evoke strong emotion. He challenges the concept that art cannot be

a member of both a serious art culture as well as a mass culture. Koons has said that he does not infuse any critiques or hidden meanings in his work. Instead, he invites people to contemplate the relationship art has to culture by using common objects such as basketballs, vacuum cleaners and light fixtures. Like Andy Warhol, Koons has cultivated the status of celebrity, as much known for his art as for his public person-

ality. In addition, he works in a factory setting and employs a large staff of over 100 people to execute his artwork with a method called Art Fabrication. Koons openly admits he is the idea man and does not have the skill set to realize the final pieces. The show will be arranged in chronological order with the sculptures placed within the thematic series they originated to map the development of Koonsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imSummer 2014

The Whitney Museum Shines a Light on Jeff Koons

Jeff Koons, Kangaroo (Red), 1999. Crystal glass, mirrored glass, carbon fiber, foam, colored plastic interlayer, and stainless steel; 92 x 59 x 1 1⁄2 in. (233.7 x 149.9 x 3.8 cm). Private collection; courtesy Sonnabend Gallery, New York. © Jeff Koons

pressive career. The lobby, 2nd, 3rd and 4th floors as well as the outdoor sculpture garden will host representative examples including Inflatables, Luxury and Degradation, Easyfun, Celebration and Gazing Ball. “The incredible range of his materials, subjects, scales, formal approaches, and techniques is virtually unparalleled and will make for a dramatic narrative full of plot twists and discoveries,” says curator and Associate Director of Programs Scott Rothkopf. “It’s hard to think of another living artist who has pushed as many aes72

Summer 2014

Jeff Koons, Gazing Ball (Mailbox), 2013. Plaster and glass; 74 1⁄4 x 24 3⁄8 x 41 1⁄2 in. (188.6 x 61.9 x 105.4 cm). Private collection. © Jeff Koons

thetic and cultural limits as Koons has.” By putting together these pieces, a story develops that Rothkopf promises will surprise even those initiated in Koons’s work. But the show is not just about what Koons has done but what he is currently doing. He continues to create and explore, flexing his artistic muscles. There will be new pieces to discover and contemplate, including Play-Doh, which was twenty years in the making. Whether or not you connect with Koons’s themes and aesthetic, there is no

denying the impact he has made on art in the postwar era. This is a special opportunity to view one of the most influential working artists of our time in a comprehensive context, one you do not want to miss. Jeff Koons: A Retrospective is on view from June 27th—October 19th at the Whitney Museum in New York before traveling to Centre Pompidou in Paris from November 26th, 2015 to April 27th, 2015 and then to the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao in summer 2015.

Auction News Bonhams june 12, 2014 New York

George Clerke, London A very fine enameled gold Chinese Market quarter repeating center seconds watch set with pearls – LOT 46

Cartier Property from the Estate of Norma Shearer. A fine Art Deco rock crystal, mother of pearl, onyx, diamond and coral boudoir clock. Signed European Watch and Clock Co., France, No. 1866 / 3358, with Cartier reference No. 970, 1920's – LOT 64

Sold For: $60,000

Franck Muller A fine platinum tourbillon wristwatch. Master Imperial, Ref:7851 T, No.63 – LOT 93

Sold For: $37,500

photos courtesy: Bonhams

Sold For: $68,750

Rolex A fine stainless steel chronograph wristwatch Oyster Chronograph Anti-Magnetic. Circa 1950's – LOT 110

Sold For: $27,500

Summer 2014

Auction News Christie's June 11, 2014 new york

VACHERON CONSTANTIN A fine and rare limited series 18k pink gold skeletonized minute repeating wristwatch – LOT 46

Sold For: $233,000

ROLEX An extremely rare and early stainless steel automatic wristwatch with center seconds and gilt four-line dial. Circa 1956 – LOT 88

Sold For: $173,000

Summer 2014

PATEK PHILIPPE A fine 18k white gold limited edition perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, leap year and day and night indication. Original certificate and box – LOT 70

Sold For: $221,000

BOVET FLEURIER A fine and rare 18k gold, enamel and pearl-set openface duplex pocket watch with center seconds made for the Chinese Market – LOT 120

Sold For: $197,000

photos courtesy: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2014

Auction News Christie's June 11, 2014 new york

ROLEX An extremely rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with pulsation dial – LOT 352

Sold For: $185,000

PATEK PHILIPPE A platinum tonneau-shaped automatic minute repeating annual calendar wristwatch with original certificate. Circa 2008 – LOT 366

Sold For: $401,000

photos courtesy: CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2014

Summer 2014

Auction News Sotheby’s june 10, 2014 New York

JAEGER–LECOULTRE A fine pink gold rectangular tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve. Reverso Tourbillon made in 1991 – LOT 10

PIERRE KUNZ A white gold minute repeating perpetual calendar tourbillon wristwatch with retrograde day, date, and moon phases. Grande Complication circa 2008 – LOT 12

Sold For: $25,000

Cartier A highly important and rare gold, hardstone, enamel and gem-set desk timepiece in the form of a tortoise circa 1928 – LOT 45

Sold For: $875,000

Summer 2014

Sold For: $60,000

ROLEX A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with registers and bracelet. “Paul Newman” Daytona circa 1970 – LOT 139

Sold For: $173,000

photos courtesy: SOTHEBY's 2014

Auction News Sotheby’s june 10, 2014 New York

Franck Muller

Patek Philippe

An extremely fine and possibly unique white gold perpetual calendar minute repeating wristwatch with grande and petite sonnerie and equation of time. Made circa 1997 – LOT 13

The Flawless Officer An extraordinary, previously unknown and likely unique titanium wristwatch with a diamond-set case back. Made in 2003 – LOT 141

Sold For: $125,000

Sold For: $737,000

Patek Philippe Patek Philippe’s First Split-seconds Chronograph Wristwatch, No 124824 A historically important yellow gold split seconds chronograph wristwatch with enamel dial, the smallest and earliest known of its kind and likely a prototype MVT 124824. Started in 1903 and completed by and sold on October 13, 1923 – LOT 175

Sold For: $2,965,000 photos courtesy: SOTHEBY's 2014

Summer 2014

watch collector De Bethune DB28 Dark Shadows This is the all-black version of the watch that won the top prize at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2011. The case and lugs are made of sandblasted, oxidized zirconium. The DB28’s unique features are its self-regulating twin barrel, silicon/white gold balance, triple parachute shock-absorbing system, spherical moon phase indication and silicon escape-wheel. It contains the mechanical hand-wound Caliber DB2115, with a handdecorated and snailed mainplate, and handpolished and chamfered steel parts. De Bethune 917-740-7785 www.debethune.com

Hermès Pendulette Mysterieuse The main characteristic of this small, desksized mystery clock is that the hour and minute hands appear to be floating in air. This illusion is achieved by mounting the hands on two superimposed sapphire discs, which rotate to tell the time. They are driven by the movement, which is concealed in the palladium ring on the inner bezel. It measures 39mm wide by 8.6mm thick, inside a 55mm case, and rests on an antiglare sapphire crystal base. The movement is quartz. Hermès 800-441-4488 www.Hermes.com

Summer 2014

watch collector Vacheron Constantin Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Vacheron Constantin is among the elite brands producing ultra-slim calibers at the moment, combining aesthetic minimalism with watchmaking prowess. Thin calibers are the most difficult to produce, which makes them highly collectible. This one contains Caliber 1731, a minute repeater movement that is just 3.90mm thick. The entire watch in its 18k gold case is only 8.09mm thick. The watch is certified by the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva. Vacheron Constantin 877-862-7555 855-729-1755 www.vacheron-constantin.com

Chanel J12 Blue Light This new version of Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic J12 was introduced earlier this year in Basel. The case and bracelet are made of white high-tech ceramic, with a white dial that is contrasted by striking luminescent blue numerals. The luminosity and tough case material combine with a unidirectional rotating bezel and 200-meter water resistance to qualify this as a robust sports watch. It contains a self-winding mechanical movement with a 42-hour power reserve. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds and date. Chanel Inc. 212-688-5055 www.chanel.com

watch collector Ralph Lauren Black Safari Flying Tourbillon This elegant timepiece has all the qualities of a gentleman’s sports watch. The very sporty, 45mm case is made of shot-blasted stainless steel with a black finish, giving it a vintage feel, and the dial has an elegant outer ring of elm burl wood, with a black matte galvanic center. The Roman numerals, which are coated with Super-LumiNova, give it the brand’s signature classic look. It contains the selfwinding Caliber RL167 with a 40-hour power reserve, made exclusively for Ralph Lauren by La Fabrique du Temps. Ralph Lauren Watches 877-639-7934 www.ralphlaurenwatches.com

Glycine Airman Airfighter The Airfighter pilot chronograph commemorates Glycine’s 100th anniversary as a watchmaker. The watch houses the automatic chronograph Caliber GL754, with functions that include three time zones and a sliding actuator on the left side of the case that activates the chronograph. The second time zone is indicated by a GMT hand that points to the index on the inner bezel. The third time zone is operated using the 24-hour rotating bezel, a feature typical of the Airman series. The case is steel and dial options include blue, red or carbon-black. The rotor is skeletonized in the shape of an aircraft. Glycine 609-750-8800 www.glycine-watch.ch

Summer 2014

watch collector Dior Montaigne The Montaigne is a new line within the Dior VIII collection, and takes its name from the street address of the historical townhouse where Christian Dior set up his atelier in Paris in 1946. The 32mm steel watch has a sun-brushed dial decorated with blue translucent lacquer and a pink gold plated central ring set with diamonds. The bezel is also set with diamonds. The bracelet is polished stainless steel with the collection’s signature pyramid-shaped links. The watch contains an automatic movement with a white lacquered oscillating weight. DIOR 866-675-2078 www.dior.com

Louis Moinet The Qatar Tourbillon features a dial made of fragments from a meteorite found in Qatar. The meteorite originated from an Asteroid belt located between the orbits of the planets Mars and Jupiter, about 260-million kilometers away. The hand-engraved applique around the periphery of the dial depicts two bent swords and sand dunes, a tribute to the state of Qatar. The movement is a tourbillon, with a special winding system and the Louis Moinet signature crown guard. Louis Moinet 561-212-6812 www.louismoinet.com

Summer 2014

As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers. Mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call. Visit us at www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com

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Summer 2014

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Summer 2014

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Bulova Clock of Ages Jeff Koons At The Whitney Museum Eli Wallach An Enthusiastic Watch Collector

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