Chronos 110

FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR

Fall 2014 $6.95

FALL 2014

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WILLIAM BARTHMAN 1118 KINGS HIGHWAY BROOKLYN, NY (718) 375-1818

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GENEVA SEAL 112 EAST OAK STREET CHICAGO, IL (312) 944-3100

NUMBER ONE HUNDRED TEN

N E W Y O R K B O U T I Q U E , 8 2 4 M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W Y O R K , N Y, ( 2 1 2 ) 4 3 9 - 4 2 2 0 BAL HARBOUR BOUTIQUE, 9700 COLLINS AVENUE, BAL HARBOUR, FL, (305) 865-8765

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Otturatore

Mount Kilimanjaro The Schlumpf Affair Movado Time Without Boundaries

BVLGARI Lvcea

P-38 Lightning™ GMT No. 9421: 44 mm, stainless steel brushed case, screw down crown & caseback, antireflective sapphire crystal, bidirectional rotating bezel, GMT function for second time zone, water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Plane.

The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the

Collection.

www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox

Fall 2014

No. 110

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50

Editor's Outline

“BETTER STARTS NOW”

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Page 44

TUDOR Supports Motor Sports

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News

RED8USA

by Carol Besler

18 Previews

56 The Schlumpf Affair

by Stuart Leuthner

32 Bvlgari Enlightened Timekeeping

by Carol Besler

SUPPORTS MOTOR SPORTS Page 50

36 Movado Time Without Boundaries

40 de Boulle Diamond & Jewelry

by Carol Besler

THE

SCHLUMPF AFFAIR

Page 56

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Buler Everyday Timekeeping

by Carol Besler

66 Mount Kilimanjaro

by David Ader

72 12 Hours of Sebring

by Denis L. Tanney

44 Citizen “Better Starts Now”

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Page 66

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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the August/September issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557

EDITOR'S OUTLINE Of great interest to our readers (the curious, the collector and the connoisseur) are our in depth stories and articles related to the owning, collecting and enjoyment of watches, clocks and cars. Travel and adventure, realized or vicariously experienced add to the pleasure of a good read.

Bulgari, on our cover had its roots as a company that adorns women with the kind of jewelry and timepieces that become modern classics. Over the past 35 years Bulgari has earned a reputation as a master watchmaker, developing new mechanisms and introducing world premier movements. Introduced at Baselworld this year, a new fall collection the Lvcea, gives its ladies watch segment a giant boost. As its name suggests, the Lvcea is a tribute to light and particularly to the sundial. The full story can be found on page 32.

An interesting connection between a brand’s ability to send a message around the world and it’s ability to inspire consumers to stride toward their goals each day, is found in the Citizen story “Better Starts Now” on page 44. By example, Citizen provides its consumers with this laudable challenge.

TUDOR has made motorsports partnerships that represent a perfect alignment between partners dedicated to performance and precision. “For years TUDOR has been inspired by motorsports” says TUDOR Watch USA Brand Manager Russell Kelly. These partnerships are reinforced by a strong lineup of TUDOR performance sports watches. To see how this plays out in the year 2014, read the story on page 50.

There is much in the news today about car collecting and the people who collect them; Ralph Lauren, Jay Leno, Jerry Seinfeld to name a prominent three. People attend many yearly concours d’elegance where magnificent examples of classic cars are on display for the sole purpose of being admired. In this issue we describe how one man’s obsession with collecting automobiles led to tragedy, scandal and the creation of one of the world’s most amazing museums. Read The Schlumpf Affair on page 56.

It is 19,341 feet to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro, or Kili, as it’s affectionately called. It is said that most people in reasonably good shape can make it to the summit. It might be more accurate to say that they have a decent chance. A walk in the park it isn’t; only about 50% of the people who start the attempt make it to the top. On page 66 find the inside story of one man’s personal account of his climb.

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news KERING BUYS ULYSSE NARDIN Luxury watch brand Ulysse Nardin has been acquired by the Kering Group, which is also the parent company for Girard-Perregaux, JeanRichard, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Brioni and more. The brand will join Kering’s Luxury Watches and Jewellery division, headed by Albert Bensoussan, and the management team will remain in place. Founded by Ulysse Nardin in 1846 with its roots in the nautical world, the eponymous watchmaking house was taken over and relaunched in 1983 by Rolf Schnyder, who transformed it into a highly profitable business, specializing in marine chronometers and ultracomplication watches. François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chairman and CEO, stated: “Ulysse Nardin benefits from a rich heritage, high profitability and solid growth prospects. Independent highend watchmaking manufactures are rare.

This is an opportunity that we had to seize, particularly because this structural acquisition will enable us to take advantage of numerous synergies with our existing brands.”

The Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Manufacture

Fall 2014

No. 110

PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher ASSOCIATE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind WATCH & JEWELRY EDITOR Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher PHOTOGRAPHY Keiko Makishima AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney

JAEGER-LECOULTRE SUPPORTS TIFF From September 4th to 14th, 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre will celebrate the best of International and Canadian cinema at the 39th Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF) as a first time sponsor of the festival. Jaeger-LeCoultre is also supporting the TIFF Rising Stars, an initiative that immerses four up-and-coming Canada’s actors in a series of public events and private industry meetings in order to be mentored in the different facets of the industry. This year’s rising stars are Sophie Desmarais, Julia Sarah Stone, Shannon Kook, and Alexandre Landry, who will receive intensive professional development with international casting directors, filmmakers, producers and development executives during the Festival.

PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com

O O G

EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com

Cameron Bailey, artistic director of the Toronto International Film Festival, center, with the 2014 TIFF Rising Stars

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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.

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23674

SCHAUMBURG WATCH Ice Crystal

ONE MAN, ONE MACHINE. G.P.M.H. GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE CHRONO

N e w Yo r k - B a l H a r b o u r S h o p s South Coast Plaza - Las Vegas 1 . 8 0 0 . C H O PA R D E x p l o r e t h e c o l l e c t i o n a t U S . C H O PA R D . C O M

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SPONSOR AND OFFICIAL TIMEKEEPER OF THE GR AND P R I X D E MONA CO HI S T OR I QUE

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Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684

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news RAYMOND WEIL SUPPORTS VH1 SAVE THE MUSIC Swiss watch brand Raymond Weil showed its support for VH1’s Save the Music Foundation at the VH1 Save the Music Honors event recently. The event featured guest performances by Save The Music alumni ambassador Ingrid Michaelson and singersongwriter James Bay. The first event of its kind for the Foundation was held in Sagaponack and honored music industry executives. Honorees included Charlie Walk, executive vice president of Republic Records, Linda Perry, singer/songwriter/ producer, Bozoma Saint John, SVP, head of global marketing at Beats Music and Nathan Cohen, Grace A. Dunn Middle School music teacher. Raymond Weil had an interactive photo booth with guests documenting the evening and posting live tweets and photos. The VH1 Save the Music Foundation is a nonprofit organization dedicated to restoring instrumental music education programs in America’s public schools, and raising awareness about the importance of music as part of each child’s complete education.

Raymond Weil Maestro in yellow gold PVD with automatic movement, with cabochon shaped case

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Raymond Weil sponsored the VH1 Save the Music Honors event. Left to right, Bozoma Saint John, SVP, head of global marketing at Beats Music; Linda Perry, singer/songwriter/ producer; Nathan Cohen, Grace A. Dunn Middle School music teacher.

©2014 movado group, inc.

Movado/Imtech mg008412a Proof 1

MOVADO TC™ ULTRA-THIN CASE DESIGN IN STAINLESS STEEL WITH MODERN BLACK DIAL. MOVADO.COM

news DOLVETT QUINCE LOVES ULYSSE NARDIN Ulysse Nardin has a new “friend of the brand” in fitness expert and television star Dolvett Quince. Currently in his fourth season on the hit NBC show “The Biggest Loser,” Quince is one of the most in-demand fitness specialists in the country. “Ulysse Nardin is thrilled to announce that fitness expert and bestselling author Dolvett Quince has joined the list of respected Ulysse Nardin Friends of the Brand,” says Nelson Lucero, UN vice president of sales and marketing. “Dolvett brings energy, passion and inspiration to the Ulysse Nardin brand and its ever growing number of followers.” Quince’s love affair with watches began years ago. “UN has an exclusive class-of-its-own look and timeless elegance,” he says. “I personally take pride in standing out, so to become a part of the UN family made perfect sense to me.”

Fitness expert Dolvett Quince and Ulysse Nardin VP sales and marketing Nelson Lucero

SHINOLA SPONSORS CAR RACES At the recent Detroit Belle Isle Grand Prix, the Shinola Watch Company was the primary sponsor of the SCCA (Sports Car Club of America) Pro Racing Pirelli World Challenge Sports Car Series races. The winners enjoyed their victory with the traditional spraying of the bubbly in the main race. The race is run on a temporary 2.35 mile circuit covering the better part of this scenic Isle that fronts the Detroit River.

Winners of the Pro Racing Pirelli World Challenge Sports Car Series races, sponsored by Shinola, from left to right: 2nd place winner Andrew Palmer, 1st place overall winner, Johnny O’Connell, and 3rd place winner Anthony Lazzaro.

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PIAGET PLAYS POLO Piaget returned to the Equuleus Polo Club for the third consecutive year as the presenting sponsor of the Piaget Hamptons Cup, held in Watermill, NY. The House partnered with polo superstar Nacho Figueras and polo enthusiasts, Joe and Diana DiMenna, for an exhibition match benefiting Robin Hood, an organization that fights poverty in New York, with over $550,000 raised for the foundation.

More popular than ever, the family affair brought out Hamptons’ best to celebrate and support the foundation. Included where celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe and husband Rodger Berman, fashion designer Donna Karan and her daughter Gabby Karan De Felice along with her husband Gianpaolo De Felice, Figueras’ wife Delfina Blaquier, Jean Shafiroff and Lise and Michael Evans. Throughout the afternoon, guests were invited to try on the latest timepieces from the Piaget Polo FortyFive collection and jewelry from the Piaget Rose collection in the brand’s dedicated lounge. Guests also admired and took photos with the life-sized polished aluminum polo pony and rider filled with hundreds of fragrant Yves Piaget Roses.

President of Piaget North America, Larry Boland, presented the Piaget perpetual trophy to the winning team, St. Regis Hotels & Resorts, featuring captain Joe DiMenna, Nacho Figueras, Mariano Gonzalez and Martin Pepa.

A polo player made of Piaget roses at the Piaget Hamptons Cup

Guests were invited to try on the latest timepieces from the Piaget Polo FortyFive collection at the Piaget Hamptons Cup.

The winning St. Regis team with the Piaget Hamptons Cup

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S at el l i te ti me i n j ust 3 second s i n any ti me z one on earth

©2014 Citizen Watch Company

E co - D r ive SATELLITE WAVE F100

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news MONTEGRAPPA OPENS FLAGSHIP Fine writing instrument manufacturer Montegrappa has opened its first flagship store in Bassano del Grappa, Italy, in the central Piazza Garibaldi. Designed to serve as a stunning reference point for the brand, Montegrappa plans to use the new shop as a template for opening future boutiques in luxury destinations across the globe. Alongside its iconic writing instrument, the location also plays host to the world’s first Bugatti and Bentley fashion boutiques. Both Bugatti and Bentley Motors have opened shops upstairs. In addition to offering the fine Bugatti products made exclusively by Montegrappa (pens and cufflinks), the range of exquisite accessories designed for Bugatti Veyron owners also includes impeccably crafted small leather goods, bags, belts, clothing and model cars.

Quincy Jones, the legendary conductor, impresario, music, film and television producer and philanthropist was in attendance to specially host the opening. “I am very happy indeed to have my good friend Quincy in our fine city,” said Giuseppe Aquila, CEO of Montegrappa Elmo & Spa.

CHOPARD Chopard is now the sponsor of race car driver Romain Dumas, who embodies the spirit of Chopard’s Classic Racing Superfast Collection with his competitive performance and victories at the toughest endurance races around the world – the 24 Hours of Nürburgring Endurance Race, the American Le Mans Series, the 24 Hours of Le Mans and the Pikes Peak International Hill Climb. Each watch from the Superfast collection features details modeled after high speed race cars, including a dial that echoes the cooling fins of the engine, numerals and hands that mimic sports-car revcounters and speedometers and rubber straps imprinted with the treads of slick racing tires.

Timepiece from the Chopard Classic Racing Superfast collection

Race car driver Romain Dumas

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PD_A

porsche design Timepieces

FIRST IN BLACK. THE NEW ORIGINAL.

Timepiece No. 1 | www.porsche-design.com/timepieces

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previews HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION WHITE CHRONO The Classic Fusion is infused with the purity of white diamonds, white dial and white strap. It is a feminine and elegant ladies’ watch for either summer or winter. There are two versions, one in titanium and the other in 18k “King Gold,” and both are set with 1.35 carats of diamonds on the bezel.

Both contain the HUB1110 self-winding movement, with date function in a rectangular window at 6 o’clock on the dial. The watch is water resistant to 50 meters.

Hublot 800-536-0636 www.hublot.com

BAUME & MERCIER PROMESSE The Promesse is Baume & Mercier’s first new women’s collection in nearly a decade. Promesse is French for “promise” and is meant to inspire women to hold a promise close to their hearts while celebrating their unique individuality through their timepiece. The collection includes both quartz and mechanical movements. Shown here is the Promesse 10184 in stainless steel with an ETA 2671 caliber self-winding movement, with a 38-hour power reserve. It is 30mm wide, with a mother-of-pearl dial and Roman numerals.

Baume & Mercier 800-MERCIER www.baume-et-mercier.com

EBEL WAVE Ebel’s new Wave timepiece is a modern design that retains the DNA of the iconic bracelet of the original classic sport Wave, launched in 1977. With its perfectly integrated case and bracelet and distinctive wave-shaped links, the original was one of the most widely recognized design statements of the watch industry. The case profile and the wave-shaped links of the new model are bolder and more distinctive, while still evoking the sensuous, fluid lines of the original. The bezel is set with 58 diamonds, and the mother-of-pearl dial is detailed with eight diamond markers.

Ebel 800-920-3153 www.ebel.com 18

Fall 2014

Zanne

ZAN N E T T I H A N D M A D E WAT C H E S

Limited edition of 1.

Hand carved solid agate dial by Zannetti.

Steel case hand engraved by David Riccardo.

Contact us to have your own custom watch made just for you. You deserve it.

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previews OFFICINE PANERAI LUMINOR 1850 8 DAYS GMT ORO ROSSO This model features an 18k polished red gold case with a sapphire crystal display back. It features a brown dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers, and an alligator strap with an 18k red gold buckle. The watch contains Officine Panerai’s P.2002 movement, a hand-wound caliber with a power reserve of 8 days displayed on the dial by a linear indicator. The GMT function, with 24-hour indication, enables the wearer to track a second time zone.

Officine Panerai 877-PANERAI www.panerai.com

ROGER DUBUIS HOMMAGE AUTOMATIC This 18k gold watch is part of the Hommage collection, which pays tribute to the classical watchmaking tradition and visionary design of founder Roger Dubuis. The master watchmaker’s signature is metallized on the sapphire crystal over the 42mm caseback. It contains the caliber RD620 self-winding movement, beating at a steady 28,800 vibrations per hour and representing a new generation of Roger Dubuis movements. It features a signature Roger Dubuis micro-rotor, and a distinctive sunray guilloché dial.

Roger Dubuis 888-738-2847 www.rogerdubuis.com

With a shape inspired by the shell of a tortoise, the classic Cartier Tortue was originally created in 1912. This new, ultra-feminine model features Roman numerals, sword-shaped hands, classic railroad track index and guilloché dial. It is fitted with a manual wound mechanical movement, and is available in small and medium sizes in either pink or white gold, with diamond options. Daytime models are mounted on a leather strap; evening models are enhanced by a sophisticated, flexible bracelet with flat links.

Cartier 1-800-227-8437 www.cartier.com

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Chronos 2014 Issue 110

CARTIER TORTUE

10110 c

(10110)

T:10.875�

Eternity just entered a new time zone.

Chronos 2014 Issue 110

Helioro by kim

Nine intertwined strands of gold combine to form the Helioro Watch in 18k rose or white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds. From $24,450. Add the drama of the Helioro Rings, and the Helioro Pendants on La Catena necklace. In a strictly limited edition exclusively at Wempe.

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previews JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER GRANDE TRADITION GRANDE COMPLICATION This is a high jewelry watch that incorporates three complications: a minute repeater, a flying tourbillon and a zodiacal calendar. It is a blend of craftsmanship, design, technical construction and watchmaking art. The dial depicts a sky-chart of the northern hemisphere. A sun revolves around the rim every 24 hours, representing a 24-hour time indication. The tourbillon sits in a titanium cage. The movement is the manual-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 945. The watch is set with about 20 carats of diamonds.

Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

BREITLING FOR BENTLEY GMT LIGHT BODY B04 This GMT has a revolutionary dual time zone adjustment system. The wearer simply pulls out the crown and turns it forwards or backwards in one-hour increments. The case is titanium, which is extremely light, hence the name “Light Body.” It contains the Breitling in-house self-winding chronograph Caliber B04. It features asymmetrical lugs, a black rubber strap and a bezel with a knurled motif inspired by Bentley radiator grilles.

Breitling USA 877-BREITLING www.Breitling.com

GLYCINE AIRMAN AIRFIGHTER The Airfighter is a pilot’s chronograph that marks the brand’s 100th anniversary. The watch has three time zones. The first time zone is on the main dial. The second time zone is on the inner bezel on a 24-hour index.

The third time zone is operated using the 24-hour rotating bezel by simply turning the bezel after releasing the lower locking crown. The watch is a chronograph, and contains the automatic Caliber GL754. A skeletonized aircraft is featured on the oscillating weight, visible through the caseback.

Glycine Tel: 603-206-5195 www.glycine-watch.ch

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JUH_

Lasting values crafted by masters.

The name “Meister” has stood for classic watchmaking at Junghans since 1936. The Meister watches of today follow in this tradition, for they are a result of both passion for precision and close attention to quality.

Choosing a Junghans Meister demonstrates appreciation for these values and for beautiful watchmaking – like our sporty Meister, the Meister Telemeter.

Bella Design Jewelers: Chagrin Falls, OH – Campanelli & Pear: Troy, MI – Pacheco’s Jewelry: Taunton, MA – Partita Jewelry: San Francisco, CA Rudi Peet Goldsmith: Canmore, Alberta – Sid Mashburn: Atlanta, GA – Steven Allen: New York, NY & San Francisco, CA For more information call 1-855-828-1969 Junghans Watches USA Email: sales@junghanswatchesusa.net www.junghanswatchesusa.net

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previews MAURICE LACROIX MASTERPIECE TRADITION DATE GMT The Masterpiece Tradition Date GMT features a large date at 12 o'clock and a second time zone at 6 o'clock, on a dial that is carefully brushed to create a sunray effect. The 40mm case is stainless steel. The hands and Roman numerals are metallic blue. It is fitted with the automatic Caliber ML 129, with a 42-hour power reserve. It is finished with circular graining and Côtes de Genève decoration, which can be seen through the crystal caseback. The strap is black crocodile, and the watch is water resistant to 50 meters.

Maurice Lacroix 609-375-2293 www.mauricelacroix.com

HERMÈS ARCEAU MILLEFIORI This watch boasts a colorful dial that appears to be traditional enameling but is executed with a special technique that delivers a gorgeous burst of color. The dial was created by combining layers of crystal canes applied to enamel, forming a pattern that resembles a technique used to make Millefiori paperweights at the famous Cristalleries Saint-Louis glassmaker in France. The result resembles a bed of flowers, hence the name Millefiori. The bezel is set with diamonds.

Hermès 800-441-4488 www.hermes.com

MOVADO TC The men's Movado TC watch features an ultra-thin case that is 40 mm wide. It is made of yellow gold-plated stainless steel, and features a round black sunray finished dial with Movado’s signature dot in yellow gold-tone. The dial has skeleton hands and stick markers, and the strap is black lizard-grained leather, with a yellow gold-plated stainless steel classic tongue buckle. The dial is covered by a sapphire crystal. The watch features a Swiss quartz movement, and is water resistant to 30 meters.

Movado 888-4-Movado www.movado.com 24

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previews CHRISTOPHER CLARET MAESTOSO The Maestoso is a meticulous reinvention of a traditional pivoted detent escapement with a unique cylindrical balance spring. This type of escapement was first used in marine chronometers in the 18th century, mounted on gimbals to ensure an invariable position. It is mounted on stepped bridges in a dramatic open-worked movement.

The watch is powered by four barrels for an 80-hour power reserve.

The timepiece, which has three patents, was seven years in the making by the celebrated independent watchmaker.

Christopher Claret 954-610-2234 www.christopherclaret.com

JEAN D’EVE SECTORA 2000 To mark the passage to the third millennium, the SECTORA 2000 model offers a different way of displaying time by showing the hours and minutes on a linear index at a 120-degree angle on the dial. As soon as the hour or minute hand completes its cycle, it springs back immediately to its starting point. The patented Swiss made movement is a Jean d’Eve exclusivity. The case is stainless steel, with a gold plated finish, with a sapphire crystal. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters.

Jean d’Eve 770-632-0500 www.swisswatchbrandsinc.com

SZANTO VINTAGE CHRONOGRAPH 2401 The Szanto 2400 series is the dressiest in the collection with a fully polished softly curved case and a two-tone dial with a contrasting color minute track, with vintage hands and numeral font. The Szanto 2401 features a 46mm polished 316L stainless steel case, black and cream dial, domed mineral crystal, a rounded fluted crown, Japanese quartz chronograph movement and a leather strap with signature buckle. It is water resistant to 50 meters, and is priced at $325.

Szanto www.szantotime.com info@timeconcepts.net 26

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previews IWC AQUATIMER CHARLES DARWIN AND GALAPAGOS IWC renewed its Aquatimer collection this year with several new models, including limited editions that honor the research of Charles Darwin. The Aquatimer Expedition Charles Darwin Bronze is unique in that the case is made of bronze, which is ideal for diver’s watches because bronze is uniquely salt-water resistant. This watch is water resistant to 300 meters. The watch is a tribute to Charles Darwin’s exploration of the Galapagos Islands in 1835. His portrait is etched in the case back. It contains automatic caliber 89365 with a 68-hour power reserve and a new internal/external rotating bezel.

Another Galapagos themed watch is the Galapagos Islands 50th Edition, which celebrates the 50th anniversary of the establishment of the Charles Darwin Research Station on the Islands. It contains the automatic chronograph caliber 89365, and features a mechanical external/internal rotating bezel with IWC’s patented SafeDive system, as well as a date display and a small hacking seconds. There are luminescent elements on hands, dial and internal rotating bezel, and a screw-in crown. It is limited to 500 pieces.

IWC Schaffhausen 800-432-9330 www.iwc.com

IWC Aquatimer Expedition Charles Darwin.

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IWC Aquatimer 50 Years Science for Galapagos Edition.

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NEW! Warp Tachymeter Chrono

• Fixed tachymeter bezel measures speed • Solid forged 316L stainless steel case with stainless bracelet or leather strap

• Comfortable 45mm case design • 1/20th sec. chrono with big date • 100% depth tested to 200M/660Ft

©2014

One of more than 100 styles from $225 to $1500 U.S.

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previews MONTBLANC TIMEWALKER AND STAR TWIN Two new timepieces from Montblanc, the TimeWalker Extreme Chronograph DLC and the Star Twin Moonphase, demonstrate the versatility of this elite Swiss brand. The sporty TimeWalker Extreme Chronograph DLC features a stainless-steel case coated with ultra-hard DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon). The surface is created under high pressure to give the steel a microscopic texture to which the DLC coating can almost inseparably adhere, thus producing a fine matte black finish on the surface. The dial is also black. It contains the automatic Caliber MB4810/507, with an integrated chronograph function.

The Star Twin Moonphase is styled in a more classic tradition of fine watchmaking, with guillochÊ dial, traditional moon phase indicator which counts the precise age of the moon in days and has classic blued leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. The movement, a self-winding Caliber MB29.13, includes a complication that shows the moon’s phases in both the Northern and Southern hemisphere. The case is stainless steel and the strap is black alligator.

Montblanc 800-995-4810 www.montblanc.com

Montblanc Star Twin Moonphase.

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LPI.in

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Enlightened Timekeeping The Lvcea sheds light on Bulgari’s dedication to ladies’ watchmaking

by Carol Besler

Lvcea in 18k pink gold and steel with guilloché black dial and classic Roman numerals

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Lvcea in solid 18k pink gold with over 170 hand-set, brilliant-cut, diamonds. Black guilloché diamond dial and diamond accented bracelet

O

ver the past 35 years, Bulgari has earned a reputation as a master watchmaker, developing new mechanisms and introducing world premier movements, but it has not forgotten its roots as a company that adorns women with the kind of jewelry and timepieces that become modern

Lvcea in solid 18k pink gold with guilloché black dial and classic Roman numerals

classics. This year, Bulgari gives its ladies’ watch segment a boost with a new full collection, the Lvcea.

As its name suggests, the Lvcea is a tribute to light, and particularly to the sundial. It is derived from the word luce, which is Italian for “light,” and celebrates the essence of the sundial. Timekeeping instruments like the sundial were first

used in ancient Egypt, and later in ancient Greece and Rome. This original form of timekeeping became indispensable – the predecessor to today’s more precise forms of tracking the time. Lvcea also pays tribute to the rich history of Bulgari which is rooted in the symbolism of ancient Roman and Greek culture. Throughout the centuries, light has also represented the Fall 2014

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Lvcea in stainless steel with opaline guilloché silver-toned sunburst dial and rhodium Roman numeral hour markers

Lvcea in two-tone steel and 18k pink gold, with opaline guilloché silvertoned sunburst dial and pink gold Roman numeral accents

powers of life and love, from simple photosynthesis to the Bible story of creation, separating light from dark. Light symbolizes rebirth, reinvention and planetary revolution.

The concept of light, in this collection, is represented by the light return from either diamonds on the dial, the luminous 34

Fall 2014

glow of mother-of-pearl or the reflections of light created by a guilloched dial. The true beauty of the Lvcea lies in the details.

The winding crown of the timepiece, for example, is made of a cabochon-cut gemstone. It is centered by a diamond that is set in a bezel ring of 18k gold. The diamond indexes on the dial are set in squares

of 18k gold that are hand applied, as are the letters of the Bulgari logo and, on some models, classic Roman numerals.

The architectural bracelet on the Lvcea is made of hinged links that produce a coiled effect inspired by the brand’s iconic Serpenti line. The “scales” of the bracelet coil into a geometry of polished metals

Lvcea in stainless steel with mother-of-pearl dial and diamond hour markers

Lvcea in solid 18k pink gold with guilloché black dial and diamond bezel

that articulate with the movement of the wrist.

The Lvcea is a full collection, with 12 different styles that offer several dial, metal and gem options, from classic steel to 18k pink gold and pavé diamonds – which gives the collection the versatility to be worn either in daytime or evening.

Dial options also include black and silver toned guilloché. There are also two-tone gold and steel models, a popular option today. Each of the 33mm sizes contains a mechanical movement, the self-winding Caliber B77 made fully in-house at the Bulgari manufacture in Switzerland. The 28mm size models contain a quartz move-

ment. Both are water-resistant to 30 meters.

The Lvcea was launched at Baselworld this year, and is represented in the company’s marketing campaign by Academy Award winning actress Naomi Watts, who is a Bulgari brand ambassador.

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TIME WITHOUT BOUNDARIES The Movado Parlee™ Limited Edition Automatic Chronograph

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The Movado Parlee Limited Edition is available in dial accent colors of green, orange, blue or white.

The Movado Parlee Limited Edition

The Movado Parlee Limited Edition, with an integrated bracelet design

The Movado Parlee Limited Edition has a uniquely curved, carbon fiber bezel.

A

mong the many timepieces introduced at Baselworld 2014, the world’s largest watch fair, were pieces influenced by automobiles, motorcycles, aircraft and even boats.

However, one watch stood out for its unique design inspiration, materials and fabrication – the Movado Parlee Limited Edition Chronograph.

Modern design and innovation define the Movado experience, and the new Parlee Chronograph is a compelling example

of the brand’s artistic creativity fused with technologically advanced watchmaking expertise.

Emblematic of Movado’s forwardthinking approach, this landmark timepiece redefines innovative thinking.

Taking ‘time’ to a whole new level, with inspired vision and groundbreaking technology, this super-lightweight watch was designed in partnership with Parlee Cycles. Founded in 2000, the Massachusetts based company pioneered the use of unidirectional carbon fiber in racing

bicycle frame construction and redefined the cycling world. A perfect partnership, Movado and Parlee share an unrelenting passion for the pursuit of perfection and the Movado Parlee Limited Edition Chronograph honors this shared sensibility.

Invoking streamlined forms and innovative fabrication as a catalyst for creativity, Movado transforms the timepiece into an art form. The Movado Parlee Chronograph challenges traditional boundaries by utilizing 250 layers of strong, lightweight unidirectional carbon fiber bonded toFall 2014

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TIME WITHOUT BOUNDARIES The Movado Parlee Limited Edition was inspired by the bicycle of the same name.

gether under high pressure to form the uniquely curved bezel and wide center links of the bracelet. The contoured dial is framed by a reflector ring that is visibly deeper on the east/west sides, enhancing the design’s dimensionality and creating an air of animation. Three black carbon fiber sub-dials – a 30-minute chronograph counter at 12 o’clock, 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o’clock, and a small seconds hand at 9 o’clock – along with a date window at 3 o’clock, and whitetipped skeleton dauphine hour/minute hands and center-mounted chronograph seconds hand provide striking textural and color contrast. The chronograph pushers feature recessed “Allen wrench” detail, invoking a common bike mechanic’s tool. The watch is constructed with a 38

unique wrap-around tubular framework crafted in black sandblasted black PVDfinished titanium that integrates the case and bracelet and accentuates the design’s modern, aerodynamic silhouette.

Powered by a Swiss ETA caliber A07 automatic chronograph movement, this highly original timepiece is distinguished by a unique, double-contoured 46mm case that is 14.8mm deep, and crafted in lightweight sandblasted black PVDfinished titanium. Water resistant to 50 meters, the case is topped by a curved unidirectional carbon fiber bezel and highlighted by an engraved Parlee logo along its 9 o’clock side. The dial features a black, flat Movado signature dot at 12 o’clock.

Available with dial accents in green, orange, blue or white, the Movado Parlee

chronograph is being issued in an edition of 250 total pieces. The exhibition casebacks are individually numbered according to the number of pieces in each color variation.

To celebrate the launch of Parlee, Movado is making a monetary donation to World Bicycle Relief (WBR). This international, non-profit organization specializes in large-scale, comprehensive bicycle distribution programs to empower people across Africa. Through its six assembly facilities, WBR has provided bikes in Angola, Botswana, Kenya, Malawi, Mozambique, Rwanda, South Africa, South Sudan, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia and Zimbabwe. For more information on this organization, visit www. worldbicyclerelief.org.

Fall 2014

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Diamond & Jewelry serves up WATCHES AND FERRARIS

by Carol Besler

D

enis Boulle was born in Mauritius, lived in Cape Town and went to school in England. Today, he is a prominent jeweler in Dallas. He explains: “Back in 1979, I met some oil tycoons from Dallas in London. A few months later, I vacationed in the United States and stopped in Dallas to meet up with the same gentlemen. I fell in love with the 40

Fall 2014

city of Dallas.”

Four years later, Denis and his wife, Karen, established deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry, with the aim of creating a luxury shopping experience in comfortable surroundings. Some of the world’s most coveted watch brands are displayed in the 13,600-square-foot custom-built deBoulle building, including Bell & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Buccellati,

Corum, F. P. Journe, Girard-Perregaux, Graham London, Gruebel Forsey, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rolex, Patek Philippe and Tudor. Jewelry brands include Buccellati, Mariani, and Erica Courtney.

There is also a gun room with new and pre-owned Holland & Holland Guns, clothing and accessories.

In 1983, Karen Boulle began designing jewelry. The deBoulle Collec-

The world of deBoulle includes a racing team, a gun room and the world’s elite watch brands

deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry in Dallas is a 13,600 square foot store featuring some of the world’s top watch brands. tion® is a unique collection that offers a wonderful selection of meticulously handcrafted and beautifully designed fine jewelry in 18k gold or platinum with diamonds and gemstones.

“It’s an eclectic mix that provides a complete range of fine jewelry from beautiful everyday/every event diamond earrings to elegant, stately earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings for the

most special red carpet occasions,” says Karen.

The store is also renowned for its estate jewelry, with an extensive collection that includes designers such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, Barry Kieselstien-Cord, Henry Dunay, Fred, Graff, Hammerman, Oscar Heyman, Kwiat, Krypell, Jean Mahie, Mauboussin, Jean

Schlumberger, Seaman Schepps, H. Stern, Tiffany & Co., David Webb and Harry Winston.

“Our estate jewelry sets us apart from other retailers,” says Denis. “We buy, sell and trade jewelry and timepieces. For deBoulle, the Estate Collection is a win-win. The store gets to showcase some unique and interesting pieces of jewelry, and the customers can trade Fall 2014

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deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry in Dallas featuring some of the world’s top brands

The sitting area in the Holland & Holland Gun Room at deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry in Dallas.

Karen and Denis Boulle established deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry in 1983.

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in jewelry they are no longer wearing. Thus, we can offer a wider range of choices in the store, from our own deBoulle Collection, top designers and wonderful estate pieces.

Denis and Karen take pride in their community involvement. “Our customers are extremely loyal to our store and they are our friends. They are often involved in charitable organizations that Karen and I are part of as well. Giving back to the community is a fundamental part of human nature,” says Denis.

One of those friends led to de-

Boulle’s involvement in amateur racing, and the formation of the deBoulle team.

“About 20 years ago, a client loaned me his Ferrari. I immediately fell in love with the noise and the engine,” says Denis. “Shortly after this, Ferrari invited my son Nick, and I out to the track.

We had so much fun that day, and my son shares my passion as well. He began racing professionally, and deBoulle Motorsports went three for three back in May!” Given Denis’s love for Ferraris, his concession to part with his own Fer-

rari for a client on one occasion is an indication of his dedication to customer service. “A few years ago, we had a customer come in. He was mesmerized by a four-million-dollar ruby ring that he had to have. The only caveat was he also wanted me to throw in my new Ferrari.

After much deliberation, I agreed. His wife came in the next day, and she said she hated rubies! Needless to say the deal was off; bittersweet, but I did get to keep the car!

deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry in Dallas incorporates a gun room with new and pre-owned Holland & Holland Guns.

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“BETTER STARTS NOW”

Citizen Watch Company is introducing an inspiring new global brand statement: “Better Starts Now”. Citizen hopes “Better Starts Now” will resonate far beyond the company itself and its associates.

“In today’s fast-paced world, it is more important than ever for brands to build an emotional connection with their consumers,” explains Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch Company of America.

“Our new Citizen brand statement unifies the core message at the heart of our brand. Consumers are increasingly sophisticated in their relationships to companies and their offerings, so it was critical for our message to reflect an authentic perspective on who we are and what we represent,” he further clarifies.

“Better Starts Now” was born of a highly collaborative initiative with the internationally renowned marketing agency, Wieden+Kennedy.

What they discovered in interviewing Citizen associates throughout the world, from product development teams to marketing executives, to those in logistics and sales is that this is a company that throughout its history, right up to today has never rested on its laurels, ever! They are always looking for ways to improve every aspect of the brand experience from their offerings to their service. Perhaps most importantly, they are driven to constantly push the envelope in terms of technical innovation and design. For eighty-four 44

Fall 2014

years, Citizen has believed in unending improvement.

“We believe that better and now are both infinite, and that there is always a next ‘better’ and a new ‘now’ in which you can start pursuing it. It was clear from the onset of this project that we are dedicated to this ideal… not to the past but to the present, and all the ways we can improve it,” says Norio Takeuchi, Citizen Watch Director and Brand Manager.

To help communicate this message worldwide, Wieden+Kennedy also created a new global Citizen brand movie that brings the “Better Starts Now” philosophy to life. It was created by legendary Dutch filmmaker Johan Kramer.

The brand movie takes place at a single Citizen workstation. Using the correct camera for the year and innovation being portrayed - from historical black & white footage, shot on a 1930s hand cranked 35mm camera, to the saturated footage of a 1980s VHS camera - the ways in which the brand has consistently taken a leadership role in developing breakthrough product innovations takes place right before the viewers’ eyes. Just as soon as one breakthrough is complete, those at Citizen role up their sleeves and begin working toward the next extraordinary development.

This approach reflects the inspiring approach Citizen Brand Ambassadors such as Eli Manning and Kelly Clarkson take not only to their careers, but also

to their personal lives. They don’t rest on the laurels of their achievements.

No matter their previous super bowl victories and Grammys, they approach each new season with a fresh approach to perform at their best. They also bring the same level of passion to their families, and even to their communities, with the causes they support.

Eli Manning elaborates: “I can draw definite parallels between ‘Better Starts Now’ and concepts that have motivated me throughout my professional career, like always working harder, getting stronger, striving for more and doing better tomorrow than I did today.”

And Kelly Clarkson adds: “I am thrilled to be a part of the ‘Better Starts Now’ campaign for Citizen! ‘Better Starts Now’ is a powerful phrase to me right now in my life. I have a new baby and I’m working on new music! It only gets better from here!”

“Better Starts Now” will be integrated in all Citizen markets globally as well as influencing their sponsorship of major sponsoring events such as the US Tennis Open and the World Figure Skating Championships.

Citizen stores around the world and the new flagship store in Times Square, New York, opening in November 2014, will also be inspired by the statement.

Jeffrey Cohen concludes: “Finally, we hope the message resonates in a real way with our consumers and inspires them to stride toward their goals each day with fresh energy, focus and enthusiasm.”

A brand dedicated to a connection with their consumers by inspiring them to stride toward their goals each day.

Kelly Clarkson Three-Time Grammy Winner

Eli Manning Two-Time MVP, Two-Time Champion Quarterback

Victoria Azarenka Two-Time Grand Slam Tennis Champion

Matt Kenseth Two-Time DAYTONA 500速 Champion

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Museum Watch

Francisco de Goya y Lucientes, The Parasol, 1777, oil on canvas, 104 cm x 152 cm. Museo Nacional del Prado

GOYA: ORDER AND DISORDER

HOFMANN BY HOFMANN

Organizing the Spanish master's work thematically, this largest exhibition of his work in North America in over 25 years shows the artist's range, from full-length portraits of aristocrats to his acerbic private drawings.

This show includes paintings Hofmann personally chose for donation to the museum as well as many signature color pane works from its rich collection of his work.

Museum of Fine Arts, Boston October 12 through January 19, 2015

ROBERT HEINECKEN: OBJECT MATTER Hammer Museum, Los Angeles through January 15, 2015

This survey of the work of Heinecken, a pioneer of the postwar Los Angeles art scene, shows how his innovative and diverse experimentation with photographic forms took the concept of the medium beyond its traditional underpinnings.

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Berkeley Art Museum through December 21

THE CITY LOST AND FOUND: CAPTURING NEW YORK, CHICAGO, AND L.A., 1960-1980 Art Institute of Chicago October 26 through January 11, 2015

Reflecting the social transformation of those decades, this exhibition explores the emergence of new photographic practices and demonstrates the deep interconnections between the realities of cities in the era.

THE PARIS OF TOULOUSE-LAUTREC: PRINTS AND POSTERS Museum of Modern Art, New York through March 22, 2015

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec brought the essence of Belle Époque Paris and its bourgeoning avant grade movements to the broader public with his famous posters, prints, and magazine illustrations, over 100 of which are presented here.

ANDREW WYETH: LOOKING OUT, LOOKING IN

National Gallery of Art, Washington, DC through November 30 Focusing on Wyeth's paintings of windows, a subject that he returned to repeatedly throughout his career, this exhibition highlights the artist's preoccupation with formal abstraction and existential darkness.

NEO-IMPRESSIONISM AND THE DREAM OF REALITIES Phillips Collection, Washington, DC through January 11, 2015

At the tail end of the 19th century, artists like Georges Seurat and Paul Signac employed stylized color to create landscapes that reflected the subjectivity of experience. This collection presents 70 works from the era.

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, La Clownesse au Moulin Rouge (The Clowness at the Moulin Rouge), 1897. Lithograph sheet: 15 7/8 x 12 11/16 in. The Museum of Modern Art, New York. Gift of Abby Aldrich Rockefeller, 1946

At the Philips Collection: Paul Signac, Setting Sun. Sardine Fishing.

Adagio. Opus 221, from the series The Sea, The Boats, Concarneau, 1891, oil on canvas, 25 5/8 x 31 7/8 in. The Museum of Modern Art, New York. © 2014 ARS, New York / ADAGP, Paris

Fall 2014

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The Art of Swiss Watchmaking

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SUPPORTS MOTOR SPORTS

F

rom classic car rallies to premier class sports car competitions, to motorcycle racing, TUDOR is on the scene with its reliable sports watches TUDOR’s commitment to sport watches is underscored by its highcaliber motor sports partnerships.

As of 2014, two of North America’s premier sports car racing series, the American Le Mans Series and the GRAND-AM Rolex Sports Car Series, merged to form one leading series in North America, the TUDOR United SportsCar Championship.

TUDOR is the entitlement partner of IMSA’s (International Motor Sports Association) TUDOR United SportsCar Championship which organizes thirteen races at the most prestigious and iconic tracks across the nation. Recent races included the Toyota Grand Prix of Long Beach, which was attended by Jay Leno and Jerry Seinfeld this year.

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These partnerships are reinforced by a strong lineup of tough TUDOR performance sports watches. TUDOR has aligned its Grantour collection with both the TUDOR United SportsCar Championship and the FIA (International Automobile Association or Federation Internationale de l’Automobile) World Endurance Championship, presenting three performance based models: the Grantour Date, Flyback and Chrono.

TUDOR’s partnership with Ducati Motor Holdings, the maker of Ducati motorcycles, which began in 2011, inspired the Fastrider Chronograph and Black Shield timepieces.

TUDOR is presently the Official World Timing Partner of the European FIA World Endurance Championship series which includes one North American race in Austin, Texas this year, known as the Lone Star Le Mans. Both the World Endurance Championship

and the TUDOR United SportsCar Championship competed on this day at Circuit of the Americas, making it the only time that both series shared one raceway. TUDOR’s connection to motorcycles continues with its presenting sponsorship role at the Quail Motorcycle Gathering, a vintage motorcycle rally hosted by the Quail Lodge & Golf Club in Carmel, California. The event is enhanced by live entertainment, gourmet offerings from local producers and leading motorcycle manufacturers and enthusiasts.

“For years TUDOR has been inspired by motorsports,” says TUDOR Watch U.S.A. brand manager Russell Kelly. “This new partnership between TUDOR and IMSA allows us to elevate our commitment to sports car racing.

This is the perfect alignment between partners dedicated to performance and precision.”

A perfect alignment between partners dedicated to performance and precision.

TUDOR’s Grantour watches are inspired by the brand’s global timing partnership with the FIA World Endurance Championship and entitlement partnership with the TUDOR United SportsCar Championship. The collection is comprised of three models: the Grantour Date, Chrono, and Chrono Fly-Back.

Above: TUDOR Grantour Chrono Fly-Back on steel bracelet. 42 mm steel case with self-winding mechanical movement.

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A Plus for Our Chronos Readers If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces. As a bonus for our CHRONOS readers we are including a subscription to ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL, A Lifestyle Magazine featuring artistic achievement and design, past and present in the world of jewelry, art, design, travel, gardens and beauty wherever it is found.

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A seasoned watch professional creates a country specific watch brand

by Carol Besler

US131 bezel set, with Black PVD steel case, interchangeable rubber strap and an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. It is set with Swarovski created stones.

R

ED8USA is a unique concept: it is a wristwatch created specifically for the U.S. market. The collection is part of RED8WORLD, a new watch brand launched in 2009 as a global brand that has been subdivided into a series of timepieces specific to a country or region. For example, the expectation is that there will be RED8CHINA, RED8GERMANY, R E D 8 B R A Z I L and so forth. The watches have a similar aesthetic, with slight design tweaks for each region.

The company was founded by 54

Fall 2014

Geneva-based watch expert and entrepreneur Christian Bedat, whose successful Bedat & Co. watch brand was sold to the Gucci Group in 2010 and then later to Luxury Concepts. With RED8, Bedat’s concept is accessible luxury that is not bound by traditional design concepts. The brand’s motto is “Be what you are,” and is aimed at customers looking not just for distinctive design, but for quality and value. The contemporary aesthetic is coupled with high quality materials and quartz or mechanical Japanese movements.

US142 40, with steel case, interchangeable rubber strap, an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve and Swarovski created stones.

“RED8USA is the evolution of RED8WORLD, which was launched as an exclusive online platform,” says Christian Bedat. “I decided to start a watch brand for local distribution with a global lineage. The United States is the first country to experience RED8 in its localized subdivision. In the future, we could create RED8JAPAN with a very similar product, but with some minor differences. The name USA in the brand refers to the distribution more than the culture, but the stylized flag on the caseback reminds us that it is for the

Made for the USA

US152 50, with steel case and an automatic movement with a 40hour power reserve. It is water resistant to 200 meters.

USA. The design is still meant to please and capture the American taste and aesthetic.”

Why the name RED8? Red is a color symbolic of success, wealth, strength and prosperity in many cultures. The number eight has always been Christian’s favorite number. That significance was also visible in Bedat & Co as well. According to numerology, some of the recognizable traits of the number eight are drive, ambition, authority, efficiency, organization, management, discipline and control.

For Bedat, the project is the culmination of a lifetime in the watch business. His mother, Simone, was a partner in the Raymond Weil brand.

She and Christian, who also worked for the company, left in the 1990s to found Bedat & Co. “RED8USA is a result of many years in the watch industry,” he says.

“Bedat & Co. was a very different concept in a way, but the attention to detail remains the same. After creating a very exclusive luxury brand, I wanted to create something exclusive but more af-

US103 Dive, with a titanium case and an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. It is water resistant to 200 meters.

fordable. I was raised in the industry. I love the idea as a Swiss citizen that I can bring to the consumer this alternative concept to traditional watchmaking.”

Watches in the collection are priced from $695 up to $2,495 for a full pavé-style model set with Swarovski stones. We are pioneering a concept of attainable greatness while maintaining a modernized yet simplified culture.”

For further information about the brand, please visit www.red8usa.com.

Fall 2014

55

THE

SCHLUMPF AFFAIR

by Stuart Leuthner

How one man's obsession with collecting automobiles led to tragedy, scandal, and the creation of one of the world’s most amazing museums.

L

ocated in eastern France near the German and Swiss borders, Mulhouse played a pioneering role during the time of the industrial revolution. Today, the city is home to a unique collection of technical museums including the Museum of Printed Textiles, the Museum of Electricity, the French National Railway Museum and the Cité de l'Automobile (English: City of the Automobile).

Housed in a sprawling converted woolen factory, the Cité de l'Automobile showcases 400 vehicles representing 98 different marques, including the collection's crown jewels, more than 120 Bugattis. Born in Italy in 1881, Ettore Bugatti was trained in the fine arts and engineering. After working for several Italian automobile firms, he established his own workshop, Automobiles E. Bugatti in the Alsatian town of Molsheim.

During his thirty-eight year career, Bugatti created 6,000 competition, sports and luxury automobiles considered by connoisseurs to be the zenith of automotive art.

How this assemblage of mechanical excellence ended up in a woolen mill in Mulhouse is a story as strange as the cars are exquisite. It is known as the "Schlumpf Affair."

The son of a wealthy Swiss textile merchant, Hans Schlumpf was born in 1904, his brother Fritz, two years later.

After growing up in Italy, the brothers moved to Mulhouse and lived with their mother. In 1935, Hans and Fritz pooled their resources and purchased a woolen mill. After World War Two, they began to acquire additional mills and their business prospered. In 1972, Fritz Schlumpf was listed as the "sixth richest man in the French Republic."

An amateur sports car racer with a passion for Bugattis, Fritz was asked by the textile union to "abstain from racing competitions which could endanger your life and deprive us of our esteemed director." Unable to race, Fritz began to collect. During the 1960's, he bought three Rolls-Royces, two Hispano-Sui-

zas, a Tatra and ten Bugattis. Fritz's mania for Bugattis came not only from his belief they were the finest cars in the world, but the fact that they were built in Alsace and "they all should come back to France."

In 1962, Fritz obtained a register of all Bugatti owners and sent a letter to each one, offering to buy their cars.

At one point the Textile King's avarice -- he would pay any price, sometimes going so far as to hand a car owner a blank check, had auto enthusiasts up in arms. No additional cars should be sold to Fritz, they suggested, or it would be impossible for anybody else to own a Bugatti.

A crew of Fritz's "secret agents" combed the world, buying cars for his growing collection. In 1963, the remaining cars belonging to the Bugatti estate went on the auction block. Fritz purchased fourteen vehicles and a treasure trove of engines, molds and parts.

Among the cars, a magnificent Bugatti Royale Coupe was one of only six in the world. Twenty-one feet long and weighing 7,000 lbs., the magnificent leviathan was Ettore Bugatti's personal car.

American John Shakespeare, the

eccentric heir to the Shakespeare fishing tackle fortune, sold his entire collection of thirty Bugattis to Fritz for $85,000.

The New York Times described the transaction as possibly the used-car bargain of the 20th century.

As the collection grew, numbering almost 450 cars by 1966, Fritz converted one of the company's four mills into a museum/restoration shop and hired 40 specialists, including several mechanics and body finishers who worked at Bugatti, to restore the vehicles. All of this work was done in complete secrecy and only those associated with the collection knew the magnitude of Fritz's obsession.

A perfectionist, Fritz was personally involved with the restorations. Cars were often painted several times until Fritz was satisfied with the result. Although Fritz preferred Bugattis, the collection includes Mercedes, Maseratis, Gordinis, Feraris, De Dions, Renaults, Rolls-Royces, Maybachs, Peugeots, countless works prototypes and one-offs (one-of-a-kind, specially ordered). Fritz was not a fan of American cars and only a handful found their way into the collection.

Built between 1932-1935, the blue Bugatti Type 55, left, is a road-going version of the extremely successful Type 54 Grand Prix car. A supercharged straight V-8 engine provides exceptional performance. Only thirty-eight examples were built. © C. Recoura Fall 2014

57

Providing seating for 4,500, the Cité de l'Automobile's exhibition track allows the museum to show the collection's cars in action. The track's paddock and clubhouse provide a venue for special events held by visiting car clubs. © C. Recoura

Fritz's non-stop collecting came with a very high price tag and he had to use the textile mills as a cash cow.

Hans, a more practical fellow, tried to curtail his brother, but to no avail.

Obsolete equipment, neglected maintenance and competition from Asia soon had the company's balance sheets bleeding red, but Fritz not only continued to buy cars, he went ahead with grandiose plans to build a museum.

Behind the mill's unassuming fa58

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cade, an astonishing showplace was created. The entrance hall features a huge chandelier and a baroque organ that originally graced an Austrian castle. In the grand hall, row upon row of cars are separated by wide gravel "streets." Illumination is provided by 845 baroque reproductions (rumored to cost more than $1 million) of the street lamps that line the Pont Alexandre III Bridge in Paris. A shrine, dedicated to the brother's mother features a large gilt-framed

photograph of Jeanne Schlumpf tending to her knitting surrounded by a group of marble nymphs and maidens.

October 1979, marked the beginning of the end for the Schlumpf brothers' empire. Mill workers, who had heard rumors of Fritz's expensive hobby, while enduring layoffs, dismal working conditions and low wages, went on strike. Five hundred strikers surrounded the brothers’ estate chanting, "Schlumpf en prison, Schlumpf en prison." After a

A display of Formula 1 race cars includes the 1994 Williams FW 16, left. Damon Hill, driving the car during the 1994 season, was runner-up in the World Driver's Championship. The 67-degree V-10 engine by Renault Sport delivers 820 horsepower. Š C. Recoura

A row of Edwardian era automobiles in the museum's Motorcar Experience section. Built between 1905 and the beginning of World War One, these were the cars that shifted the majority of automobile sales from wealthy enthusiasts to the general public. Š C. Recoura Fall 2014

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Bugatti planned to build twentyfive T41 Royales. Conceived as the world's most luxurious car, the T41 was twenty-one feet long and weighted 7,000 lbs. When the world's economy collapsed, only six were completed between 1929 and 1933. This car, the Coupé Napoléon was Ettore Bugatti's personal car. © C. Recoura

A line-up of Grand Prix race cars is led by the blue Bugatti Type 251. Completed in 1955, the rear engine car features a straight-8 engine mounted transversely behind the driver. Driven by Maurice Trintignant in the 1956 French Grand Prix, the car was not competitive and retired at eighteen laps.

three day siege, a troop of gendarmes managed to get Hans and Fritz out of a side door and escorted them to the train station where they quickly departed for Basel, Switzerland.

Although outraged when they discovered their employer's disregard for their welfare, the workers realized the importance of the collection and re60

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named the "Schlumpf Museum" the "Workers Museum." Admission was free, but donations raised from more than 800,000 visitors during the next two years were distributed to needy worker's families.

To thwart any attempt to sell the collection (rumors suggested the Schlumpfs were planning to smuggle

the cars out of France) the collection was declared a historical monument.

Enlarged and modernized, the Cité de l'Automobile - Musée National -Schlumpf Collection opened in July, 2007. Three years later, the Autodrome, an outdoor exhibition track with seating for 4,500, was built to provide visitors with the opportunity to watch the

In 1998, the Volkswagen Group purchased the trademark rights of the Bugatti car company in order to revive the Bugatti name.

Manufactured in Molsheim, France,

by Bugatti Automobile S.A.S., the Bugatti Veron is a true supercar.

Displayed in its own area at Cité de l'Automobile, the Veron is powered by a 2-bank W 16-cylinder engine, fitted with four turbochargers, producing more than 1,000 horsepower. © C. Recoura

THE

SCHLUMPF AFFAIR

The Alfa Romeo 8C was designed to compete in sports car races, specifically the Mille Miglia. Only ten 8Cs were built, five in 1935 and five, including this car, in 1936. Power is provided by an inline 8-cylinder 2.9 litre engine equipped with two superchargers. © C. Recoura

museum's cars in action.

Hans and Fitz Schlumpf spent the rest of their lives living in "exile" in Switzerland. Both were tried in absentia for a multitude of transgressions, including tax evasion and falsified accounting and were sentenced to four years imprisonment and a $10,000 fine. Neither spent a day in jail. Hans Schlumpf died in

1989. A year later, Fritz visited the museum for the first time since he fled to Switzerland. After strolling among the cars, he spent some time gazing at his mother's photograph. Fritz Schlumpf died in 1992.

Nothing stood between Fritz Schlumpf and the machines he lusted after. His addiction led to tragedy and

scandal, but the ultimate outcome was the creation of one of the world's most amazing museums.

The Cité de l'Automobile - Musée National - Collection Schlumpf is located at 192, Avenue de Colmar, Mulhouse, France. For more information visit the museum at www.citedelautomobile.com Fall 2014

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In the Heart of America’s Wild West...

Where Luxury...

877-359-2715

...Meets Adventure

www.sorrelriver.com

stay@sorrelriver.com

Everyday Timekeeping Buler makes sporty watches that are modern and accessible

by Carol Besler

The Buler Ocean Hero is a chronograph with a unidirectional rotating bezel.

T

he Buler Watch Company was founded in 1945. While it has a solid foundation with strong roots in the watchmaking world, it is a relative newcomer in the world of Swiss watchmaking.

From the beginning Buler was conceived as a watch company that would not be bound by old traditions. This young new watch company, located in 64

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a small town in the Jura Mountains, Switzerland’s famed watchmaking district, embraced a modern approach to timepieces, both from a technical and design point of view.

Buler became a leading mass producer of pin-lever watches, fitted with basics-only mechanical movements that made the watches more accessible. Later, when quartz technology

was introduced, Buler also embraced quartz technology. The company’s designs reflected not extravagant luxury, but simply sportive and stylish instruments of time measurement. To reinforce its niche as a sports watch, the brand has been a major sponsor of international car races, soccer teams and squash tournaments over the years.

Every Buler collection is a com-

The Buler Mountain Quest pays tribute to the mountain heroes who have attempted the ascent of the Eiger north face.

The ladies’ Twinkle collection is sporty yet chic.

bination of imagination and exploration, reflecting the company’s original commitment to making functional yet special watches. The Ocean Hero Chronograph, one of the latest introductions, is a quartz chronograph, with a 44mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotating bezel and a screw-lock crown. It also has a date window, and is water resistant to 200 meters.

The Mountain Quest Collection pays tribute to the mountain heroes who have attempted the ascent of the Eiger north face, including the first successful one in 1934. Mountaineers embrace the ultimate feeling of free-

dom and appreciation for nature by taking on challenges such as the Eiger which, for many, is the ultimate goal in life. Recently an adventurer climbed the Eiger north face with his bare hands pushing the boundaries of human endurance. The Buler Mountain Quest is stainless steel, with a unidirectional rotating bezel and a sapphire crystal. The dial is available in silvery white or black. The chronograph functions include 1/10 of a second, 30-minute and 12-hour counters, and there is a calendar function at the 6 o’clock position. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters, and the movement is quartz.

The Twinkle Collection, for ladies, was inspired by Mozart’s 12 variations on “Ah, vous dirais-je, Maman” (KV265). The Twinkle Watch combines technical excellence with a sporty yet chic look. The case is stainless steel or rose gold plated, and the bezel is set with diamonds. The strap is white silicon, and the movement is quartz. It is water resistant to 100 meters.

The Buler Collection is now being distributed in the U.S., and is available at fine jewelers across the country.

For more information, contact sales@ swissbrandsinc.com Fall 2014

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Mount Kilimanjaro 19,341 Feet On the Rocks, With a Splash

by David Ader

Kilimanjaro at night‌ from 15,000 feet Photo by Louis Russo

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here are seven routes to the 19,341-foot summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, the world’s highest freestanding mountain. Ours was the “Whiskey Route” which takes seven days to complete. While the tourist guides and blogs are pretty honest when they say that most people in ‘reasonably’ good shape can make it to the summit, it might be more accurate to say they have a decent chance. A walk in the park it isn’t; only about 50% of the people who start the attempt make it to the top.

Kili, as it’s affectionately called, doesn’t require the technical skills of the climbers of the Himalayas, nor the supplemental oxygen usually reserved for peaks over 20,000 feet. It does however, require at least several days of severely strenuous hiking in an ever-thinning atmosphere that can and does take a toll. At 15,000 feet a twenty-step walk for a bit of personal privacy behind a rock can leave you panting and dizzy.

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This all the more reason that hikers tackle Kilimanjaro with guides whose job is your safety, porters to lug gear, and cooks to keep you fed when you’re burning upwards of 10,000 calories a day.

The guiding companies varied greatly in price and comfort. Our

trek was with a rather high-end outfit called Abercrombie and Kent, which for our hiking group of 12 had a support team of 70. The porters and guides were a remarkable lot who climb the mountain several times a season. Our head guide Dismus has been up it nearly 300 times in his life.

Our guides were filled with kindness, smiles and songs of encouragement as they skipped up slopes that left our fellow travelers dizzy and exhausted.

A word about our team is warranted. My wife Pippa and I were the only real civilians amongst the twelve, as pretty much everyone else was there

“What have I gotten myself into?” First day, steep climb through the rain forest… started at 6,000 feet.

Photo by Pippa Ader

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Dawn on Mt Kilimanjaro Photo by Michael Smith

“Into the clouds – Porters doing the heavy lifting…literally” Photo by Pippa Ader

“An ambulance is ready for emergencies” Photo by Pippa Ader

Our cook tent on Mt Kilimanjaro Photo by Michael Smith

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Above the clouds, the day before we summit Mt Kilimanjaro Photo by Louis Russo

for work filming an episode of Richard Wiese’s “Born to Explore” including Richard himself. Pippa and I were more like payload though, as the oldest folks on the climb, filmed daily to record our fears and hopes which changed as much as the weather as we crossed through six distinct ecological zones from subtropical rain forest to alpine desert.

Changing moods go with the gain in altitude and constant need to change gear as the weather shifts. Everyone climbing the mountain goes through this, but I suspect the quality of the experience is directly proportional to the quality of the company you keep. This not only means the people climbing with you, but the care given by the staff.

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In our case each couple had a very large tent, with a cot and mattress, and a series of porters to carry pretty much all your gear and then some. The large tent may seem like overkill but when changing in the generally frigid mornings being able to stand and put on your thermals, hiking pants, rain pants, gaiters and boots was nice especially compared to other folks in tiny pup tents swearing as they squirmed in their very confined quarters.

Our group also had a massive dining tent that doubled as the social center, portable toilets and shower stalls that to the best of my knowledge were never used; the water there usually froze.

The food might not win awards at lower altitudes but it was hot, plenti-

ful, and edible if not actually gourmet.

A side benefit is that we all lost quite a bit of weight over the course of the seven-day adventure.

We all had to deal with a variety of high altitude afflictions ranging from mild headaches and dizzy spells to nausea and intestinal problems. It’s common to take a drug called Diamox which is said to help with the altitude but is a severe diuretic which wasn’t too much of a problem during the day but kept liter bottles filled each night (carrying the label, “DON’T DRINK”).

The climax, of course, was the trek to the summit that started around midnight in the midst of a driving snow and hail storm (40-50 mph winds!) and concluded at 7AM at the

“At the summit of Mt Kilimanjaro with the expedition leader, our host Richard Wiese and our frosted over guide” Photo by Louis Russo

“Cold, exhausted, exhilarated” David and Pippa Ader at the summit of Mt Kilimanjaro Photo by Michael Smith

peak. This part was the most difficult by far but whether due to sleep or oxygen deprivation the only thought on everyone’s mind was making it to the top. Perhaps at the very peak of exhaustion the guides broke into a Swa-

hili chant that seemed to give us just enough encouragement to take the final steps. Every one of us made it.

In the months after all this I’m still rather at the top of the mountain; the pride, and, yes, surprise at the achieve-

ment has not slipped away. There may be other mountains to climb, or maybe not, but possible future adventures that at some level cause trepidation, may provide just the motivation I need, as Kili has proved.

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62nd TIME AROUND–12 HOURS OF SEBRING Under the new banner of TUDOR United SportsCar Championship Series Article and photography by Denis l. Tanney, Automotive Editor

Sunset at the 12-hours is always something for the photographers to look forward to each year. The Ferrari #57 in the GTLM class of Andrea Bertolini barely leads a pack into turn one with the sun still a bit high in the sky.

The start of the 62nd running, of the annual Sebring 12-hour race.

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As the sunset becomes dark the twinkle of the headlights aglow on the front straight and it becomes almost magical and surreal.

E

The overall winners are Mario Franchitti, Memo Rojas and Scott Pruett.

ach March those who enjoy sports car racing start to ready themselves for the annual feast for the eyes and ears: the 12 hours of Sebring.

This is a race that has endured through good times and bad and continues to challenge both driver and car alike.

The event still draws huge crowds year after year. And this year was the very first Sebring run under the new banner of TUDOR, and their fine watches. It is known now as the TUDOR United SportsCar Championship Series.

Situated in the middle of the orange groves in central Florida, the circuit is made up of some seventeen turns, and encompasses 4.74 miles of twisty, bumpy road. Part of the circuit was the original airport used for training during WWII. The track has been reconfigured a number of times throughout the years.

Sebring is always a challenging course for teams and drivers and the cars take a terrible beating over a period of twelve grueling hours. The winning car has to be as fit and trim and sturdy and durable

as the drivers who man them.

Sebring is also the second leg of the newly created (2014) Patron North American Endurance Cup Championship. The other three races in this championship are: the Rolex 24 at Daytona, The Sahlen’s 6-Hours of Watkins Glen, and the 1000-mile Petit LeMans at Road Atlanta. This is a championship within the full season Tudor Championship and encompasses the longer distance endurance races.

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AM

D

N WATCH G UI ICA R L E

WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES

The American Watch Guild was founded as an unprecedented way to recognize those quality retailers, manufacturers and affiliated service companies whose standard of excellence has set them apart in the fine watch industry.

The Guild drew its inspiration from the tradition of the medieval guilds. Those associations of artisans and merchants, from goldsmiths to weavers, were formed to preserve the professionalism within their crafts and to assure buyers of quality by displaying the coveted symbol of their guild.

Today, more than ever, with over six billion dollars in counterfeit products on the market annually, membership in the Guild can separate true value from fictitious value.

Often, gold jewelry offered for sale does not reflect the Karat marking on the item, and diamonds all too often turn out to be merely zircons. Watch movements are frequently of inferior quality as well.

Membership in the American Watch Guild carries with it the commitment to the following criteria: – Authorized agents of the watch brand – Trained watch sales personnel – Factory authorized service for maintenance and repair of watches – Maintenance of a channel for ethical distribution that respects the integrity of the watch

For more information, please visit www.americanwatchguild.com

When you visit one of our Guild Stores, please ask for your complimentary copy of How To Buy A Watch and The Care and Service of Fine Watches.

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WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES ALABAMA

CONNECTICUT

INDIANA

MISSOURI

Mountain Brook

Glastonbury

Ft. Wayne

Clayton

Barton-Clay Jewelers ARIZONA

Phoenix Hyde Park Jewelers

Scottsdale E.D. Marshall Jewelers CALIFORNIA

Beverly Hills David Orgell Westime

Burlingame Kern Jewelers Topper Fine Jewelers

La Jolla Westime

Laguna Hills Swiss Watch Gallery

Los Angeles Chong Hing Jewelers

Milpitas Chong Hing Jewelers

Newport Beach Traditional Jewelers

Palm Desert Leeds & Son Jewelers

Rowland Heights Chong Hing Jewelers

San Francisco Shapur Shreve & Co.

San Gabriel Chong Hing Jewelers

Santa Clara Chong Hing Jewelers

Santa Cruz Dell Williams, Inc.

West Hollywood Westime COLORADO

Denver Hyde Park Jewelers

Lux Bond & Green

Greenwich Lux Bond & Green Manfredi Jewelers, Ltd.

Hartford Armstrong Rockwell

South Windsor Lux Bond & Green

Uncasville Lux Bond & Green

West Hartford Lux Bond & Green

Westport Lux Bond & Green DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA

Washington, DC Tiny Jewel Box FLORIDA

Aventura King Jewelers

Belleair Bluffs Harold Freeman Jewelers

Coconut Grove H & H Jewels

Fort Lauderdale Levinson Jewelers

Palm Beach Hamilton Jewelers

Palm Beach Gardens

Bradley Gough Diamonds

Indianapolis Reis-Nichols IOWA

Sioux City Gunderson’s Jewelers LOUISIANA

Baton Rouge Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry MASSACHUSETTS

Andover Royal Jewelers

Boston Lux Bond & Green Shreve, Crump & Low

Framingham Barmakian Jewelers

Peabody De Scenza Diamonds

Stoneham The Watchmaker

Wellesley Lux Bond & Green MICHIGAN

West Bloomfield Dion’s World of Watches

Hamilton Jewelers

MINNESOTA

St. Petersburg

Edina

Hess Fine Art

Weston Weston Jewelers ILLINOIS

Addison Razny Jewelers

Chicago Geneva Seal Marshall Pierce & Co.

Oak Brook

Scheherazade

Minneapolis J. B. Hudson

St. Louis Park Continental Diamond MISSISSIPPI

Simons Jewelers

Kansas City Meierotto’s Jewelry NEBRASKA

Omaha Borsheim’s Gunderson's Jewelers NEVADA

Las Vegas Ca’d’Oro Horologio Hyde Park Las Vegas NEW HAMPSHIRE

Nashua Barmakian Jewelers NEW JERSEY

Cliffside Park D’Amore Jewelers

Cranford Martin Jewelers

Jersey City Diamond Hut Jewelers

Livingston George Press Fine Jewelers

Morristown Braunschweiger Jewelers

Princeton Hamilton Jewelers

Somers Point Bernie Robbins Jewelers

Westwood LaViano Jewelers NEW MEXICO

Albuquerque Butterfield Jewelers

Ridgeland Sollberger Watches, Clocks & Jewelry

C. D. Peacock

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WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES NEW YORK

OHIO

TEXAS

CARIBBEAN

Bayside

Canton

Amarillo

Virgin Islands

Alicia’s Jewelers

Brooklyn Simpson Jewelers William Barthman Jewelers

East Hampton London Jewelers

Alson Jewelers

Toledo Harold Jaffe Jewelers OKLAHOMA

Oklahoma City

Garden City H. L. Gross & Bro. Jewelers

Huntington Maddaloni Jewelers

Manhasset London Jewelers

New Rochelle T & R Jewelers

New York

B. C. Clark Jewelers Samuel Gordon Jewelers PENNSYLVANIA

Exton Benari Jewelers

Mars Casa D’Oro Jewelers

Newtown Bernie Robbins Jewelers

Cellini Wempe Jewelers William Barthman Jewelers

Rochester Cornell’s Jewelers Mann’s Jewelers

Scarsdale Wilson & Son Jewelers NORTH CAROLINA

Charlotte Fink's Jewelers

Durham Fink's Jewelers

Greensboro Fink's Jewelers

Winston-Salem Windsor Jewelers NORTH DAKOTA

Fargo Royal Jewelers, Inc.

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Gasser Jewelers

Cleveland

Pittsburgh Henne Jewelers

Scranton Boccardo Jewelers

St. Davids Bernie Robbins Jewelers RHODE ISLAND

Barrington Thomas B. Gray Jewelers SOUTH CAROLINA

Duncan & Boyd

Dallas deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry Neiman Marcus

Jewels, St. Thomas Royal Caribbean, St. Thomas Trident Jewels & Time, St. Thomas

El Paso Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry & Watches

Frisco Markham Fine Jewelers

Houston I. W. Marks Jewelers Zadok Jewelers

Sugarland I. W. Marks Jewelers VIRGINIA

Dulles Fink's Jewelers

McLean Fink’s Jewelers

Norfolk Fink's Jewelers

Richmond Fink's Jewelers Schwarzschild Jewelers WASHINGTON

Seattle Turgeon-Raine

Greenville Geiss & Sons SOUTH DAKOTA

Sioux Falls Gunderson’s Jewelers TENNESSEE

Nashville King Jewelers

CARIBBEAN

Bahamas John Bull, Nassau Quantum Duty Free, Nassau

Netherland Antilles Freeport Duty Free, Curacao Freeport Jewelry & Gifts, Curacao

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watch collector Ralph Lauren Classic Chronometer The Classic Chronometer is part of Ralph Lauren’s Sporting collection, representing masculine elegance and horological performance. The self-winding Caliber RL366 movement is COSC-certified and decorated with côtes de Genève and perlage finishing.

The dial’s classic elements include Roman numerals, Breguet-style hands and railroadtrack indexes on the central dial and subdial.

The case is stainless steel and the strap is black alligator with black leather lining.

Ralph Lauren Watches 877-639-7934 www.ralphlaurenwatches.com

Hermès Arceau Pocket Astrolabe The Arceau Pocket Astrolabe features exquisite plique-à-jour enameling. The astrolabe, from the Greek meaning “startaker,” is an instrument for measuring the height of the sun or a star above the horizon, in particular to determine the time. Formed from circular rings placed inside one another, it represents the movement of the stars as the ancient astronomers imagined it. The circles of the astrolabe appear in a palette of blue, turquoise and indigo, punctuated by touches of silver. It contains the mechanical selfwinding Caliber H1928.

Hermès 800-441-4488 www.Hermes.com 78

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watch collector Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph, Ref. 5960 was originally introduced in 2006 in a platinum case. There are few steel Patek Philippe watches and this model is therefore a collector’s piece. The movement, automatic Caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H, is unchanged, but the dial has been refurbished and the bracelet, also steel, is new for the brand. The first day of the month is displayed in red and the rest in black. There is also a power reserve indicator and day/night indications.

Patek Philippe 212-218-1240 www.patek.com

Dior VIII Grand Bal Plisse Soleil The Dior VIII Grand Bal Plisse Soleil in steel features a sun-brushed dial with pink galvanic treatment, highlighted by a bezel set with diamonds and a mother-of-pearl ring. The movement is the automatic Dior Inverse caliber, with its signature oscillating weight on the dial.

The oscillating weight is decorated with motherof-pearl marquetry and set with diamonds. The bracelet features links in the collection’s signature pyramid shape.

DIOR 866-675-2078 www.dior.com

watch collector Zenith Pilot Type 20 Annual Calendar Russell Westbrook This timepiece tribute to three-time NBA AllStar Russell Westbrook is a five-piece limited edition that commemorates the brand’s new ambassador. It contains the El Primero Caliber 4054 movement, which drives a chronograph function and a 60-minute counter, along with a center sweep seconds hand. The watch is also an annual calendar. The orange hue of the chronograph seconds hand and the tips of the two counters echo Russell Westbrook’s signature color. The case is steel.

Zenith 866-675-2079 www.zenith-watches.com

Seiko Astron GPS Solar Novak Djokovic Limited Edition This special edition is equipped with Seiko’s new chronograph caliber, which adjusts to every time zone on earth at the touch of a button. No matter where Novak’s quest for tennis glory may take him, he always has the exact time on his wrist. Seiko estimates Novak’s 2014 global travel schedule would normally require him to adjust his watch at least 60 times. With Astron, he does not have to worry about it once. It features a black ceramic bezel and rose-gold tone over the steel case. The case back carries Novak’s name and signature.

Seiko Corp. of America 800-782-2510 www.seikousa.com 80

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watch collector Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue This timepiece is a flying tourbillon with Grand Sonnerie Westminster Carillon, incorporating a safety system that stops the sounding of the passing hours while the time is being corrected. It has twin barrels, covered by a barrel bridge made out of blue sapphire crystal. It is a limited edition of 20 pieces.

The case is 18k white gold and it is fitted with the manual-wound Caliber UN-970. It is water resistant to 30 meters.

Ulysse Nardin 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées This finely crafted collection pays tribute to 19th century architecture, specifically the large European railway stations built in the golden age of industrial revolution. This is conveyed through the hand-engraved, open-worked Caliber 4400, revealing a three-dimensional architecture, and a Grand Feu enameled bezel ring. The case is 18k gold. It is certified by the Geneva Seal Hallmark.

Vacheron Constantin 877-701-1755 www.vacheron-constantin

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As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers.

Mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call. Visit us at www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com BLACK FOREST IMPORTS, INC. 111 Creek Ridge Rd, Ste. G Greensboro, NC 27406 Tel: 714-637-4307 www.blackforestclocks.org

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REACTOR 5312 Derry Ave., Ste. B Agoura Hills, CA 91301 Tel: 800-291-6600 www.ReactorWatch.com

WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com

BULER www.SwissBrandsinc.com info@SwissBrandsinc.com

LUMINOX LUMONDI 2301 Kerner Blvd., Ste. A San Rafael, CA 94901 Tel: 415-455-9500 www.luminox.com

RED8USA Tempus Group 300 Kansas Street, Ste. 106 San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-732-7979 www.red8usa.com

ZANNETTI Grenon’s of Newport 210 Bellevue Ave. Newport, RI 02840 Tel: 401-846-0598 www.grenons.com

MOVADO 650 From Road Paramus, NJ 07652 Tel: 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com

ROLEX WATCH USA 665 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com

MTM SPECIAL OPS WATCH 1225 South Grand Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90015 Tel: 800-284-9487 Tel: 213-741-0808 www.specialopswatch.com

SULTANA www.SwissBrandsinc.com info@SwissBrandsinc.com

BULGARI Tel: 800-BULGARI www.Bulgari.com CHOPARD 800-CHOPARD www.US.Chopard.com CITIZEN 1200 Wall Street West Lyndhurst, NJ 07071 Tel: 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com HERMLE BLACK FOREST CLOCKS 340 Industial Park Drive Amherst, VA 24521 Tel: 800-642-0011 Tel: 434-946-7751 www.hermleclock.com JUNGHANS WATCHES USA All About Time, Inc. Tel: 855-828-1969 www.junghanswatchesusa.net

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PIAGET 645 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com PIERRE LAURENT USA Tel: 612-244-5537 www.pierrelaurent.com PORSCHE DESIGN Chartpak Luxury Brands Tel: 800-628-1910 Tel: 561-470-6925 www.chartpak.com www.porsche-design.com

SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Tel: 877-FLY-SWISS www.swiss.com SWISSKubiK Luxury Products Intl.

20 Spyglass Point Circle Bedford, NH 03110 Tel: 347-329-2971 www.LuxuryProductsInternational.com TAVANNES P. O. Box 85 Valencia, PA 16059 Tel: 412-600-4240 www.tavanneswatches.com

P-38 Lightning™ GMT No. 9421: 44 mm, stainless steel brushed case, screw down crown & caseback, antireflective sapphire crystal, bidirectional rotating bezel, GMT function for second time zone, water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Plane.

The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the

Collection.

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FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR

Fall 2014

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