hermès. time reinvented.
FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR
Fall/Winter 2014 $6.95
FALL/WINTER 2014 •
hermès imbues time with a resolutely hedonistic touch by providing a space of infinite freedom. the dressage l’heure masquée watch keeps the hours hand hidden beneath the minutes hand, making its appearance only with a deliberate press on the crown-integrated pushbutton. the fleeting apparition of the playful hand vanishes as soon as the pressure is released. this delightful great escape from daily routine is entirely conceived and constructed by the manufacture hermès, and orchestrated by the self-winding h1925 movement, equipped with an exclusive patented mechanism.
1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com
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NUMBER ONE HUNDRED ELEVEN
dressage l ´ heure masquée
Scotland Cubist Art At The Met Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime
RALPH LAUREN Black Safari Flying Tourbillon 11/10/14 5:59 PM
P´3115 Laser Flex. Form and Function.
Another precision instrument innovation by Porsche Design.
Porsche Design.The Perfect Gift, for Graduations , Bridal, Holidays, Birthdays, Mothers Day, Fathers Day, and Special Occasions. Available at Fine Retail Jewelers
For Additonal Information: LuxuryBrandsGroup@Chartpak.com
Watch The Video at Chartpak.com/porsche
P-38 Lightning™ Chronograph No. 9441: 44 mm, stainless steel case, screw down crown & case back, antireflective sapphire crystal, black aluminum inlay bezel with tachymeter, water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Plane. The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the
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www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox
Collection.
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porsche design Timepieces
FIRST IN TITANIUM. THE NEW ORIGINAL.
Chronograph Titanium Limited Edition | www.porsche-design.com/timepieces
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Fall/Winter 2014
No. 111
6 Editor's Outline
48 Accessories for Watch Lovers
HONORS JETER Page 34
52
8
The Rosetta Stone Collection
News
54
16 Previews
Cubist Art Debuts at the Met
PATEK PHILIPPE’S
175 th
ANNIVERSARY MASTERPIECE
30
60
Page 38
6 Hours at Watkins Glen by Denis L. Tanney
Ralph Lauren Safari by Carol Besler
34 Movado Honors Jeter by Carol Besler
38 Patek Philippe’s 175 Anniversary Masterpiece by Carol Besler
66
Cubism at the Met
Scotland by Pamela Bailey photos by David Eustace
Page 54
78
TUDOR SERIES 6 HOURS AT WATKINS GLEN INTERNATIONAL
Watch Collector
th
Page 60
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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the October/November issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557
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EDITOR'S OUTLINE
With every issue of Chronos our aim is to acquaint our readers with, and acknowledge excellence achieved, in those subjects we choose to write about. With this in mind we call to your attention the story on page 38, Patek Philippe’s 175th Anniversary Masterpiece. Considered the world’s most collectible watch brand Patek Philippe celebrated its 175 Anniversary in October with a party in Geneva. At the party it introduced a collection of six new complicated watches. The Grandmaster Chime, the brand’s most complicated watch, was one of them. The movement has 20 complications and to read about them is a delight. Movado Watch has chosen to honor excellence in selecting baseball legend Derek Jeter as an example of what the Movado brand stands for – passion, innovation and a commitment to excellence. Movado celebrates Jeter’s excellence both on and off the field, with the creation of a collection of special edition timepieces. See our story on page 34. To evoke the romantic vision of an African journey in a timepiece, was the inspiration of Ralph Lauren. Only excellence in design and innovation could have produced the Safari Collection inspired by the rugged beauty of the African landscape. See these timepieces for your Safari experience on page 30. Our article on page 54, A Premier Collection of Cubist Art Debuts at the Met, exhibits an excellence in curatorial ability that is able to provide viewers the most remarkable exhibition of cubist art in more than 30 years. The Leonard Lauder Cubist Collection is a recent gift to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Cubism, the most important art movement of the 20th Century, radically destroyed traditional illusionism in painting and revolutionized the way we see the world. The cubist movement paved the way for the pure abstraction that dominated western art for the next 50 years. There are those who are blessed with a rare and remarkable gift for seeing the world in a special way. The story about Scottish photographer David Eustace an artist whose mastery of his craft reveals an excellence in observation, is to be found on page 66. He captures images that resonate deeply with viewers, whether he is photographing the rugged Scottish landscape or immortalizing one of the many international celebrities who have sat for him. The 6 Hours of Watkins Glen is one of 12 races in the racing season for the TUDOR United SportsCar Championship. Watkins Glen International is a very fast, sometimes dangerous, thrilling and extremely rewarding course to drive. It requires tremendous excellence in driving performance of its participants. Shifting constantly, braking, turning in and accelerating out of a corner with tremendous G forces, take a lot of effort and stamina. See the story on page 60.
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news BREGUET IN MOSCOW A special exhibition entitled Breguet, the Innovator was on display at the prestigious GUM department store located on the Red Square in Moscow in September and October. The exhibition displayed the exceptional contributions that Breguet has made to the field of horology, focusing on the tourbillon, invented by master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet. The exhibit offered a unique opportunity to discover some of the antique watches with a tourbillon sold by A.-L. Breguet between 1805 and 1823. The contemporary timepiece Classique Tourbillon extra-thin automatic 5377 was also on display for the first time in Russia at this event.
Fall/Winter 2014
No. 111
PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher ASSOCIATE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind WATCH & JEWELRY EDITOR Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher
One of the historic pieces on display at the Breguet, the Innovator Exhibit.
PHOTOGRAPHY Keiko Makishima AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com
The Breguet the Innovator Exhibit in Moscow.
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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.
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SCHAUMBURG WATCH Ice Crystal
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news CORNELL’S JEWELERS HOSTS A LAUNCH PARTY FOR BREITLING David and Olivia Cornell, of Cornell’s Jewelers in Naples, NY, hosted a special evening in their home to celebrate the new collection of Breitling timepieces available at Cornell’s Jewelers. Breitling USA President Thierry Prissert joined the Cornell’s for “a Night with the Guys,” arriving via seaplane, as the party was located on idyllic Canandaigua Lake. Prissert hand carried the collection from Switzerland in a custom travel case so guests could see the latest pieces while enjoying delicious food, signature cocktails and cigars. “It is a pleasure to be here in New York with Olivia and David Cornell,” said Prissert. “It is very kind of them to welcome everyone into their home, and provide such a beautiful setting for this evening. We are thrilled to welcome Cornell’s Jewelers into the Breitling family.”
Thierry Prissert, Breitling USA president.
The special pieces from Breitling’s latest collection included the Chronomat Airborne, the Navitimer 01 46mm, the Navitimer GMT and the Transocean Chronograph Edition. Each of the new watches has a five-year warranty and houses a Breitling Manufacture movement that is chronometer-certified by the COSC, the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute.
David Cornell, CEO of Cornell’s Jewelers; Breitling USA president Thierry Prissert; Olivia Cornell, president of Cornell’s Jewelers; Michael Cornell, store manager of Cornell’s Jewelers.
Breitling’s Cockpit B50, a new multifunction electronic chronograph equipped with an in-house analog and digital display movement – a brand exclusive development. Designed to accompany aviators in all their missions through its broad range of functions, it combines user friendliness with an ultra-legible display mode.
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Canandaigua Lake
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©2014 movado group, inc.
Movado/Imtech mg010561a Proof 1
SEE IT. TOUCH IT. FEEL IT. WEAR IT. ONLY 250 PEOPLE WILL EXPERIENCE ONE OF THE PUREST UNIONS OF FORM MEETS FUNCTION – THE MOVADO PARLEE ™ AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH. INSPIRED BY THE ENGINEERING OF ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST ADVANCED ROAD BIKES, THIS FLUID 2014 LIMITED EDITION TIMEPIECE IS BUILT WITH 250 LAYERS OF UNIDIRECTIONAL CARBON FIBER – A MATERIAL PIONEERED AND PERFECTED BY PARLEE CYCLES. STRUCTURAL YET FLEXIBLE, THIS BREAKTHROUGH MATERIAL IS CAPTURED IN THE BEZEL AND LINKS – BECOMING AN INTEGRAL PART OF THIS MASTERFUL 46MM DESIGN THAT FEATURES A FINE SWISS MOVEMENT WITH 48-HOUR POWER RESERVE AND INDIVIDUALLY NUMBERED EXHIBITION CASE-BACK. CHOOSE FROM FOUR COLOR ACCENTS. EXPERIENCE IT AT MOVADO.COM/PARLEE AND SELECT FINE JEWELERS.
TO CELEBRATE THIS UNIQUE COLLABORATION, MOVADO IS DONATING TO WORLD BICYCLE RELIEF. LEARN MORE AT WORLDBICYCLERELIEF.ORG
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news HUBLOT AND FERRARI IN DUBAI Swiss luxury watchmaker Hublot showcased a selection of its highly complicated wristwatches with innovative materials at the kickoff event of the Hublot Challenge at a pop-up store in Dubai at the Grand Atrium of the Dubai Mall. The exhibit featured a Ferrari ultimate F1 racing simulator installed for the brand’s guests at the Grand Atrium in the Dubai Mall. Among the watches on display were the Big Bang Ferrari Ceramic Carbon with the mythic Ferrari Yellow, Big Bang Ferrari King Gold and the signature Big Bang Ferrari Titanium Carbon, created with an exclusive red sapphire glass.
The Hublot pop-up store at the Grand Atrium in the Dubai Mall.
Ferrari simulator at the Hublot pop-up store.
PANERAI SUPPORTS CELEBRITY FIGHT NIGHT Officine Panerai was among the brands that participated in the 20th edition of Celebrity Fight Night in Florence, Italy, recently, a four-day event that raised funds for two charities, the Andrea Bocelli Foundation and the Muhammad Ali Parkinson Center. It attracted many of the world’s philanthropists, including George Clooney and wife Amal Alamuddin. Panerai donated a Radiomir 1940 Oro Rosso 47mm, an iconic timepiece that was inspired by Panerai models created in the 1940s. The back of the watch was personalized for the occasion with an engraved inscription reading: “Andrea Bocelli Foundation for Haiti” and in the words of Maestro Bocelli: “I strongly believe that love does justice.”
The Panerai Radiomir 1940 Oro Rosso 47mm. George Clooney and Amal Alamuddin.
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news JAEGER-LECOULTRE AND THE WORLD OF FILM Jaeger-LeCoultre was a proud sponsor of the 52nd New York Film Festival held in the fall, celebrating the best of American and International cinema as part of its partnership with the Film Society of Lincoln Center, including its annual initiative, the Filmmaker in Residence Program. From the red carpet to the most intimate events of the festival, Jaeger-LeCoultre will showcase its longstanding engagement and close affinity to the world of film. That affinity extends to film events in other cities, particularly when it comes to actress and friend of Jaeger-LeCoultre Sarah Gadon, who chose to wear Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces for the recent premieres in London and Rome of her latest film “Dracula Untold” from Director Gary Shore. Jaeger-LeCoultre vintage creations and a RendezVous Night & Day watch accessorized her look on the red carpet.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s North American president Philippe Bonay, third from left, with filmmakers/producers David Cronenberg, Lesli Klainbert and Michel Merkt.
Ge
On cro wi ach acc of Ge tha Jae
Jaeger-LeCoultre Vintage watch from 1966.
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Sarah Gadon wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Vintage watch from 1966 at the “Dracula Untold” premiere in London.
Sarah Gadon wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day at the “Dracula Untold” premiere in Rome.
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Chronos_
1958 THEY SAILED BENEATH THE NORTH POLE. THEIR WATCH HAS SAILED ACROSS TIME.
Geophysic® 1958. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 898/1. Limited series of 800.
On August 3rd 1958, the submarine Nautilus achieved the extraordinary feat of crossing the North Pole by sailing beneath the ice floe – a challenge taken up within the context of the International Geophysical Year (IGY). As a reward for this achievement, Captain Anderson received a watch worthy of such an impressive accomplishment: the Geophysic® Chronometer by Jaeger-LeCoultre, a paragon of reliability and precision that has now become a legend. Through the new Geophysic® 1958 watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre pays tribute to the inventive spirit that defined the year of 1958, and that has consistently defined the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre for over 180 years.
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YOU DESERVE A LEGENDARY WATCH.
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previews VERSACE V-RAY Inspired by the world of motor racing, this masculine chronograph features an oversized IP rose gold steel case. The aesthetic is dominated by strongly contrasting colors, with silver counters and a fuchsia central seconds hand acting as a counterpoint to the blue. The inner bezel, chronograph indexes, crown seal and button tops are also fuchsia. Black stitching stands out on the leather strap. The watch contains a Swiss quartz movement and it is water resistant to 50 meters. Versace 888-721-7219 www.versace.com
BREITLING COCKPIT B50 This multifunction electronic chronograph is equipped with an in-house SuperQuartz caliber with analog and digital display features. It has a chronograph with split-time and flyback capabilities, a second time zone, perpetual calendar, two alarms and a lap timer function. The case is made of natural or black-coated titanium. Breitling says its B50 Superquartz movement is ten-times more accurate than standard quartz. It is chronometer certified by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). Breitling USA 877-BREITLING www.Breitling.com
CARL F. BUCHERER MANERO CHRONOPERPETUAL The Manero ChronoPerpetual has a 42.5mm 18k rose gold case, and a silver or black dial. In addition to perpetual calendar and chronograph functions, there is a small seconds dial at 6 o’clock and a tachymeter scale on the bezel. The automatic CFB 1904 movement, which boasts a 50-hour power reserve, is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. Only 100 pieces of the Manero ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition will be produced worldwide. The perpetual calendar function on this watch will not require correction until the year 2100. Carl F. Bucherer 800-395-4306 www.carl-f-bucherer.com 16
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GLY N
Th e n e w
AIRFIGHTER
AIRMAN AIRFIGHTER, REF. 3921, CAL. N째 GL 754 AUTOMATIC, 24H 3 TIME ZONES, 46 MM, 20ATM
For an Authorized Glycine retailer near you, please call 855-248-2840 or e-mail usc@glycine.us
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previews RICHARD MILLE RM 011 ORANGE STORM The front and back bezels of this automatic flyback chronograph’s tripartite case are made of black TZP ceramic, which is extremely resistant to scratches. Its center case band is crafted from NTPT® (North Thin Ply Technology) carbon, which is extremely strong and light. In addition to the center case band, the Orange Storm’s crown and pushers are also made from NTPT carbon. With its skeletonized movement as the backdrop, the Orange Storm’s bright orange hour indicators, counters, hands and flange are instantly legible. The timepiece has an orange rubber strap with a titanium buckle. Richard Mille 310-285-9898 www.richardmille.com
DISNEY-INGERSOLL 1930S TRIBUTE WATCH Ingersoll and the Waterbury Clock Company, which eventually became US Time and Timex Corporation in the U.S., were the producers of the original Mickey Mouse watch. Under agreement with Disney, Ingersoll recently relaunched some of its historic Disney timepieces. These 1930s watches all have mechanical movements and period styling and packaging, and meet modernized safety standards. The 50mm watch is stainless steel with antique plating, and a mechanical movement with brass or nickel finish. Ameico 860-354-8765 www.ameico.com
SULTANA AENEAS This watch from the Sultana Aeneas collection is available in both ladies’ and men’s sizes. Pictured here is the ladies, with a 27mm wide case, made of IP rose gold-plated stainless steel. The bracelet is made of the same material, and features a double push butterfly buckle. There is a small seconds window at six o’clock, and the wavepatterned dial features classic Roman numerals. It has a sapphire crystal and a Swiss made quartz movement, and it is water resistant to 30 meters. Sultana www.SwissBrandsinc.com info@SwissBrandsinc.com
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Bout 19961
Marine Diver Self-winding movement. Water-resistant to 300m. 18 ct rose gold case. Also available in stainless steel. U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M
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Boutiques S. Fl & NY CHRONOS FP/FC New Diver 266-10-3-93 (19961)FOC Issue #111 Fall/ Winter-oct/nov 2014
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previews PANERAI GALILEO GALILEI PENDULUM CLOCK This clock is a tribute to inventor Galileo’s invention of 1641. It is a faithful reproduction of an instrument designed by Galileo to demonstrate that the law of isochronism of small oscillations of the pendulum could be applied to the measurement of time. The escape wheel designed by Galileo is recognized as the first free escapement in history. Panerai’s Pendulum Clock is mounted on a mahogany base, with a hinged plate on the front on which the name of the model is engraved. Completing the Pendulum Clock is a glass case, with a black-lacquered aluminum frame and a door at the front enabling the clock to be wound and its hands to be set. Officine Panerai 877-PANERAI www.panerai.com
HERMÈS DRESSAGE L’HEURE MASQUÉE The hour hand of this watch remains discreetly hidden under the minute hand, but will appear on demand with a push of the crown. The dual time zone also appears in the window at 6 o’clock marked “GMT.” It contains the self-winding Caliber H1925, made entirely in-house and equipped with an exclusive patented mechanism enabling the hour and date on demand. The case is stainless steel and the opaline silvered dial is guilloched. The strap is matt Havana alligator. Hermès 800-441-4488 www.Hermes.com
NOMOS GLASHÜTTE LUX This watch, with an 18k rose gold case, features dials in a choice of colors, including cicada, ermine and sable. It contains the manual wound caliber the DUW 2002. The dial is galvanized and silver plated, with gold plated hands. The case size is 32.6mm by 22.6mm and is 3.6mm thick. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters. The movement’s hand-engraved balance cock reads “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt” (lovingly produced in Glashütte) and is also a promise that the very best is mostly hidden from sight. NOMOS Glashütte www.nomos-glashuette.com 20
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previews MONTBLANC MEISTERSTÜCK HERITAGE PULSOGRAPH The Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph, with manual-wound caliber MB M13.21, is a monopusher chronograph, which can be seen through the back of the 18k rose gold case. The pen collection of the same name was originally introduced in 1924. Meisterstück is the German word for “masterpiece.” There are also Automatic, Perpetual Calendar and Moonphase models in the new Meisterstück collection. The pulsometer measures brief intervals and was popular among physicians for reading pulse rates per minute. The dial is silvery white with a sunburst pattern, gold-plated markers and dauphine hands. Montblanc 800-995-4810 www.montblanc.com
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER SPECIAL EDITION TONDA METROGRAPHE The pale mint green dial of this special edition of the brand’s new collection features a luminescent coating that surrounds the counters of the chronograph and illuminates them in the dark. The watch is a self-winding chronograph, with in-house Caliber PF315, which has two series-coupled barrels for a power reserve of 42 hours. The case is stainless steel and the bracelet is steel and titanium. Each back is engraved “Edition Speciale.” Parmigiani Fleurier 305-260-7770 www. Parmigiani.ch
ROLEX SEA-DWELLER This updated version of the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller was first launched in 1967 as the Sea-Dweller 2000 (water resistant to 2,000 feet). The new one is the Sea-Dweller 4000 (water resistant to 4,000 feet). It has a black Cerachrom bezel with PVD platinum markers, gold Chromalight hands and markers, blue Parachrom hairspring (in Caliber 3135) and a bracelet with Glidelock extension system and Oysterlock safety clasp. It retains the look of the ’70s version, including the famous helium escape valve. Rolex 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com 22
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Souverän® The Perfect Image Accessory Available in Fountain, Rollerball & Ball Point At Fine Retail Jewlers
For additonal information, contact Chartpak luxury brands group at LuxuryBrandsGroup@chartpak.com www.pelikan.com/exclusive
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previews PIAGET EXTREMELY PIAGET COLLECTION This year, Piaget is celebrating its 140th anniversary and on the occasion of the 27th Biennale des Antiquaires, a beautiful jewelry and watch show in Paris, the company is highlighting a stellar period in its creative history from the 1960s and '70s. For the occasion, the brand introduced a new collection of 88 jewellery creations and 37 watches. Pictured here is the Extremely Piaget edition of the Altiplano Skeleton watch in 18k white gold and platinum, set with diamonds and sapphires, containing Piaget Caliber 1200D. Piaget 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com
CITIZEN SATELLITE WAVE The Satellite Wave uses two new technologies developed by Citizen Watch. Satellite timekeeping technology ensures accurate satellite time in 40 time zones, including 27 cities, throughout the world. Eco-Drive technology means the watch is powered by light, and so never needs a battery. Functions, aside from satellite timekeeping, include perpetual calendar, power reserve indicator, day-date and 12/24-hour time functions. The case is titanium with a black DLC bezel. The dial’s green highlights improve legibility. Citizen 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com
MOVADO GRAVITY This timepiece expresses Movado’s modern design aesthetic, with its sleek minimalist dial made of carbon fiber and featuring the signature dot at 12 o’clock. The 42mm case is stainless steel with a black PVD finish and has a layer of carbon fiber inserted between the PVD surface and the caseback. It comes with a bi-level black rubber strap which conforms to the wrist, and is water resistant to 30 meters. The Movado Gravity contains a Swiss quartz movement. Movado 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com 24
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Water-resistant in the most elegant way: Ahoi from NOMOS Glash端tte
Find out more about this and other models at nomos-glashuette.com, or order online at nomos-store.com
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previews VACHERON CONSTANTIN COLLECTION EXCELLENCE PLATINE These two new versions of the Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve and Traditionnelle World Time watches feature cases, crowns, dials and buckles made of platinum, a pure, rare and highly durable metal that was first used by the Geneva-based manufacture in 1820. Both watches and movements bear the Hallmark of Geneva, an independent certification of origin, of craftsmanship durability and expertise, and 100 of each will be released. The Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve model features hours, minutes and seconds, as well as providing pointer-type indications of the power
reserve, the date and the day of the week. It contains Caliber 2475. The strap, in dark blue alligator, is handsewn with silk and 950 platinum thread. This combination is made possible by the remarkable malleability of this precious metal, a single gram of which can be drawn out to form an almost two kilometer-long thread. The folding clasp is also made of 950 platinum. The Traditionnelle World Time watch embodies a complication inextricably bound up with the history of the Geneva-based manufacture, since it was in 1932 that Vacheron Constantin made its first timepiece equipped with
a world time mechanism reading the time in 31 cities of the world. This one, with self-winding Caliber 2460WT, is distinguished by its ability to drive indications corresponding to the world’s 37 time zones – including those offset from Universal Coordinated Time (UTC) by a half-hour or a quarter hour, – complete with a day/night display via a central globe, as well as by its simplified crown adjustment of all indications. A patent for this exclusive association has been filed by the manufacture. The 950 platinum dial features a “Lambert projector” type map, which is conical in shape.
Vacheron Constantin 877-701-1755 www.vacheron-constantin.com
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Day-Date and Power Reserve in platinum.
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Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle World Time in platinum.
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Sectora II Automatic
www.jeandeve.ch
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previews AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE This year, Audemars Piguet introduced six new references in its Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph collection. They replace the previous ROO collection and appear in a new 42mm case size, compared to the previous 44mm case size of the most recent models. The original ROO, launched in 1993, was 42mm, and Audemars Piguet feels that size seems appropriate once again as watches are increasingly being scaled back. The new collection is more refined, with downsized, sculpted hour markers and faceted hands. The new pieces also indicate AP’s commitment to ceramic. The crowns and pushpieces are now ceramic instead of rubber. Most striking of all about the new ROO collection is the sapphire caseback, through which the movement can now be seen, including a 22k gold engraved rotor. New models include navy, black with red highlighting, all-grey, ivory and brown, and a stunning pink gold version. Audemars Piguet 888-214-6858 www.audemarspiguet.com
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore in ivory and brown.
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The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore in black with red highlighting.
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SAFARI A timepiece collection built for adventure by Carol Besler
The elm burl wood finish on the outer dial of the 45mm Black Safari Flying Tourbillon is reminiscent of the dashboard instrumentation on Ralph Lauren’s prized Bugatti.
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Ralph Lauren timepiece collections are a reflection of the company’s unique sensibility, which is divided into four iconic lifestyle design themes: automotive, equestrian, Art Deco and safari. The philosophy behind each of these unique aesthetic categories is to allow customers to imagine Ralph Lauren’s creations in the context of an adventurous lifestyle, exploring themes that are personally meaningful to the designer himself.
T
he Safari collection is inspired by the rugged beauty of the African landscape and the romance of safari. “When I started out as a designer, I dreamed of going to Africa, to safari,” says Ralph Lauren. “Safari is the dream of adventure. It's about living the life you want and pushing yourself beyond your limitations. It's the dream of ex-
periencing the wild and seeing the farthest reaches of the world.” It has long been a theme in his apparel and accessories collections. For his Swiss made timepieces, Lauren beautifully contrasts a utilitarian aesthetic with refined elegance, using complex mechanisms to create a collection both at home on the savanna and in the city.
When the Ralph Lauren Safari collection of timepieces was introduced at the Madison Avenue boutique in New York City recently, a vintage 1950s Series 1 Land Rover from Lauren’s private collection was on display in front of the boutique. Models dressed in safari themed attire helped to bring the feeling of a luxury safari experience to life
The RL67 Safari Chronometer is built for adventure.
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for guests. The watch collection has created a sensation, particularly the Ralph Lauren 45mm Black Safari Flying Tourbillon. The timepiece, in blackened steel, contains the exclusive RL167 self-winding movement, featuring a flying tourbillon, which is visible on the dial. The finishes on this timepiece 32
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illustrate the rich detail that is present in all Ralph Lauren timepieces. The shot-blasted stainless steel case has been chemically treated to increase its rigidity, durability and resistance to temperature changes. The elm burl wood finish on the outer dial is reminiscent of the dashboard instrumentation on Ralph Lauren’s prized vintage
Bugatti. A black alligator strap adds the final note of understated luxury to this masculine yet refined timekeeper. It is evidence of the rich watchmaking heritage of Ralph Lauren’s manufacturing partner, the Richemont Group. Ralph Lauren has introduced a number of exciting new timepieces in the Safari collection, including the
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new 39mm version of its popular RL67 Safari Chronometer, an exceptional timepiece that evokes the romantic vision of an African journey. The RL67 Safari Chronometer has either a 45mm or 39mm case that is made of black “aged” stainless steel, combined with a “weathered” canvas strap to complete the sporty aesthetic. The five different
colored canvas straps, all lined with leather, include classic olive green, blue, black and faded versions of the last two, known as “watered down.” Each of these colors was carefully chosen by Ralph Lauren himself to convey the authentic spirit of safari and the appeal of a well-worn colored canvas strap. The anthracite dial has a matte
varnished finish, and the movement, self-winding Caliber RL300-1, is a COSC-certified chronometer. It has an approximately 42-hour power reserve. The numerals are coated with SuperLumiNova so that they are visible even after the sun has set and the safari adventure is over for the day.
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HONORS JETER The Derek Jeter Captain Series commemorates the strength, performance and leadership of the Major League legend. by Carol Besler
The Derek Jeter Captain Series of timepieces celebrates the career of the Movado brand ambassador and baseball legend. 34
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B
aseball legend Derek Jeter, who played his last home game with the Yankees in September, will be remembered for his outstanding 20-year career in Major League Baseball as one of the “good guys” of the sport. Movado commemorates his legacy with a collection of special edition timepieces. “Teaming up with Movado to create this new collection of watches has
been a real honor,” says Derek Jeter, a five-time World Series champion. “Movado has been a special partner of mine for over eight years, and I am privileged to have had the opportunity to collaborate with such a world-class organization.” The Captain Series is a trio of watches created in close collaboration with Jeter. Each Captain Series dial is customized with the player’s number 2 in position at 2 o'clock. All three
models share a special commemorative Derek Jeter Captain Series caseback design, and come in specially designed packaging featuring the Captain Series seal. “Movado is very proud to be associated with Derek Jeter,” says Efraim Grinberg, chairman & CEO of the Movado Group. “Derek has long been one of the most dynamic players in Major League Baseball. He gives 100% of himself both on and off the
Derek Jeter Captain Series Museum Sport Watch, with 42 mm black PVDfinished stainless steel case and bezel with stainless steel commemorative caseback, matte black three-hand Museum dial with thin gray vertical stripes, polished black dot, numeral 2 and blue-filled hour/minute hands, blue minute reflector ring and seconds hand, and date display. It has a black perforated rubber strap with black PVD-finished stainless steel and a classic tongue buckle, sapphire crystal and Swiss quartz movement. It is water resistant to 30 meters.
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HONORS JETER
Derek Jeter Captain Series Movado BOLD Watch, with a 44 mm cushionshaped black ion-plated stainless steel case with matching commemorative caseback, rotating blue elapsed time reflector ring, screw-down time and reflector crowns, textured black dial with sunray dot, blue numeral 2 and markers, white-filled hands and date display, textured black silicone strap with blue lining and black ion-plated stainless steel buckle. It contains a Swiss quartz movement, and is water resistant to 100 meters.
field, and embodies what the Movado brand stands for – passion, innovation and a commitment to excellence. The Captain Series has been a wonderful way to celebrate our longstanding partnership with Derek and to demonstrate how proud we are of all of his 36
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accomplishments.� The two sporty Movado BOLD Derek Jeter watches feature cushionshaped 44mm cases made of solid or black ion-plated stainless steel, water resistant to 100 meters. Other features include a rotating blue elapsed time
reflector ring, screw-down crowns, textured dials in either black or silvertone, with a sunray patterned signature Movado dot, a blue number 2 and markers to match, and a black silicone strap with blue lining. The third Captain Series model is a commemorative
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Derek Jeter Captain Series Movado BOLD Watch, with a 44 mm cushionshaped stainless steel case with matching commemorative caseback, rotating blue elapsed time reflector ring, screw-down time and reflector crowns, textured silver-toned dial with sunray dot, blue numeral 2 and markers, white-filled hands and date display, textured black silicone strap with blue lining and stainless steel buckle. It has a Swiss quartz movement, and is water resistant to 100 meters.
Derek Jeter Museum Sport watch on a perforated black rubber strap. Water resistant to 30 meters, it features a 42mm sized case in black PVDfinished stainless steel, with elegant, gray vertical stripes on the black dial, a polished black signature dot, stylized
blue numeral 2 and a date display in addition to hour, minute and seconds functions. Each is powered by a Swiss quartz movement. “We are honored to commemorate Derek Jeter’s outstanding baseball career and legacy with this watch col-
lection,” says Grinberg. “We wanted Derek’s fans to share in the excitement of his final Major League season through these exciting timepieces.”
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PATEK PHILIPPE’S
175
th
ANNIVERSARY MASTERPIECE,
the brand's most complicated watch by Carol Besler
P
atek Philippe, the world’s most collectible watch brand, celebrated its 175th anniversary in October with a party in Geneva where it introduced a collection of 6 new complicated watches. The Grandmaster Chime, the brand’s most complicated watch, was one of them. 38
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The Grandmaster Chime was introduced at the event, held at Patek Philippe headquarters in Plan-lesOuates, a suburb of Geneva. The movement, driven by four spring barrels, has 20 complications, including a Grande and Petite Sonnerie, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual
calendar with a four-digit year display and a second time zone. It holds two patents: an acoustic alarm that strikes the alarm time as a minute repeater would strike the hours, minutes and seconds; and a date repeater that chimes the date on demand. The Caliber is the hand-wound GS AL 36-750
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Patek Philippe, the world’s most collectible watch brand, celebrated its 175th anniversary in October with a party in Geneva where it introduced a collection of 6 new complicated watches. The Grandmaster Chime, the world’s most complicated watch, was one of them.
The Grandmaster Chime is a double-faced wristwatch, the first one presented by Patek Philippe that, thanks to reversible lugs, can be worn with either dial facing up.
QIS FUS IRM, with an astounding 1,366 components. If you add the 214 parts of the case, it comes to a total of 1,580 components for this watch. The watch automatically sounds the hours and quarters at each quarter hour. In Petite Sonnerie mode, only the hours at the top of the hour and quarters
at each quarter hour are chimed. The quarter hour in this watch sounds not on two but on three gongs with different tone sequences – something that requires 50% more energy than a conventional Petite Sonnerie. In order to accomplish this, Patek Philippe had to ensure a strikework power reserve of at
least one entire day. The watch has a 30-hour power reserve. The minute repeater sounds the hours, quarter-hours and minutes on demand. The watch also has a chimed alarm function, a great feature that garnered applause at the launch event. The alarm strikes the time by reproducing the Fall/Winter 2014
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The Grandmaster Chime is delivered in a case of Makassar ebony and inlaid wood of 17 other species.
PATEK PHILIPPE’S
175
th
ANNIVERSARY MASTERPIECE
complete tone sequence of the minute repeater – a function never before integrated in a mechanical wristwatch. There is also a date strike. The date repeater, triggered by a pusher sounds ten-day intervals with a double highlow strike, and the remaining days with 40
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a high strike. The 23rd of the month, for example, is indicated with a dingdong ding-dong, followed by dingding-ding. And yet another notable feature: there is a four digit date display on the perpetual calendar, which can be incremented forward or backward
with two pushers. This will be a hit at the turn of the century, when all four digits will turn over at midnight. The watch is a double-face wristwatch, the first one presented by Patek Philippe that, thanks to reversible lugs, can be worn with either dial facing up:
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The date repeater, triggered by a pusher, sounds ten-day intervals with a double highlow strike, and the remaining days with a high strike.
The Grandmaster Chime hand-wound Caliber GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM has an astounding 1,366 components.
The relief engravings depict a special anniversary laurel foliage, along with symbols that reflect the functions.
Hundreds of hours were spent on the decoration of the watch, by a master hand engraver.
100,000 hours were logged for the development, production and assembly of the Grandmaster Chime.
The date repeater, triggered by a pusher, sounds ten-day intervals with a double high-low strike, and the remaining days with a high strike.
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PATEK PHILIPPE’S
175
th
ANNIVERSARY MASTERPIECE
The movement, driven by four spring barrels, has 20 complications.
Some numbers surrounding the creation of the watch: ►
100,000 hours were logged for development, production and assembly.
60,000 of those hours were spent on the components of the movement.
►
The Grandmaster Chime automatically sounds the hours and quarters at each quarter hour.
The caliber consists of 1,366 parts.
►
►
The case consists of 214 separate parts, bringing the total number of components to 1,580.
It took 11,060 meticulously hand-finished parts to assemble the seven limited edition pieces.
►
There are six patents.
►
The Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175 is only one of six new commemorative pieces introduced in October in Geneva. Find out about the other five in the next issue of Chronos.
one side focuses on the time and the sonnerie, and the other is dedicated to the perpetual calendar. The current time and date are displayed on both dials. To protect it against damage caused by inadvertent manipulations, it incorporates isolators that interrupt the flow 42
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of power between individual mechanisms or block certain functions while others are active. Hundreds of hours were spent on the decoration of the watch, by a master hand engraver. The relief engravings depict a special anniversary laurel foli-
age, along with symbols that reflect the functions. It is delivered in a case of Makassar ebony and inlaid wood of 17 other species. It is priced at 2.5-million Swiss francs.
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Museum Watch
HENRI MATISSE: THE CUT-OUTS Museum of Modern Art, New York through February 8, 2015
In the final part of his career, Matisse worked almost exclusively in cut-outs, which are reassessed in this exhibition that includes over 100 examples of this work as well as drawings, prints, and textiles that show the reach of this artistic format.
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Henri Matisse. The Sheaf (La Gerbe), 1953. Maquette for ceramic (realized 1953). Gouache on paper, cut and pasted, on paper, mounted on canvas. 115 ¾ x 137 ¾”. Collection UCLA, Hammer Museum. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Sidney F. Brody. © 2014 Succession H. Matisse / ARS, New York
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Los Angeles County Museum of Art: Set photograph from Metropolis, 1927. Gelatin silver print. Directed by Fritz Lang. Photo courtesy of La Cinémathèque française, Paris, France.
KEITH HARING: THE POLITICAL LINE
HAUNTED SCREENS: GERMAN CINEMA IN THE 1920S
de Young Museum, San Francisco through February 1, 2015
Los Angeles County Museum of Art through April 26, 2015
The first major Haring show on the West Coast in nearly two decades, this wide-ranging exhibitions looks at the how his art reflected political concerns during the 1980s, and features several pieces that have not been on view since the artist’s death in 1990.
The expressionistic cinema of the liberal Weimar Republic, with its innovative aesthetic, psychological, and technical components, is explored through 150 drawings, set models, posters, manuscripts, and video clips from such films as Metropolis, The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari, and M.
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DRAWING IN THE AGE OF RUBENS
BRILLIANT: CARTIER IN THE 20TH CENTURY
J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles through January 11, 2015
This collection celebrates the flourishing artistic culture in the southern Netherlands of the 16th and 17th centuries. It includes drawings by Rubens and his most talented contemporaries. A parallel exhibition, Rubens’ The Triumph of the Eucharist, is also on display.
Denver Art Museum November 16 through March 15, 2015 Featuring jewelry, timepieces, and precious objects created between 1900 to 1975, this exhibition, showing only in Denver, demonstrates the evolution of the Cartier design house during its rise to preeminence.
POP DEPARTURES
Seattle Art Museum through January 11, 2015 Art in the 1960s began to embrace the world of commercial culture, advertising, and mass media in general, often with images of newness, youth, and seduction. The legacy of this art, from its beginnings to its influence on the present, is explored in this show.
MONET AND THE SEINE: IMPRESSIONS OF A RIVER
Museum of Fine Arts, Houston through February 1, 2015 Examining Monet’s fascination with the Seine, this collection brings together more than 50 paintings that trace his life along the Seine, both autobiographically and geographically.
Denver Art Museum: Tutti Frutti strap bracelet worn by Mrs. Cole Porter. Cartier Paris, 1929. Platinum, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies; 18 x 4.07 x 0.75 cm. Cartier Collection. Photo: Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier.
At the Philips Collection: Paul Signac, Setting Sun. Sardine Fishing. Adagio. Opus 221, from the series The Sea, The Boats, Concarneau, 1891, oil on canvas, 25 5/8 x 31 7/8 in. The Museum of Modern Art, New York. © 2014 ARS, New York / ADAGP, Paris
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Claude Monet, The Seine at Lavacourt, 1880, oil on canvas, Dallas Museum of Art, Munger Fund.
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Contact Luxury Products International: TEL.: 347-329-2971 e: info@luxuryproductsinternational.com Facebook: Luxury Products International
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ACCESSORIES FOR WATCH LOVERS
P
eople who love watches appreciate every detail, including the bezel, and now there is a men’s jewelry collection, including bracelets and cufflinks, that reflects the bezel designs of the most prominent watch brands. Each Speedometer Official bangle bracelet is manufactured from solid rods of high quality marine steel type 316L, the same material used for the stainless steel watch cases of leading brands. The bezel bangle bracelets are produced in specialized factories, located in the Turin area of northern Italy, that also produce components for the fine sports car industry, including Fiat, Ferrari and Lamborghini. Each bangle goes through a specialized heat treatment that renders the steel more malleable. This means the bangles can easily open and close around the wrist, and one size fits all. The representation of the bezels on the colored insert is made from aluminum. The bracelet is available with inserts in six different color options. There is a special black steel version, which undergoes a special treatment known as DLC or Diamond Like Carbon, using fine powdered diamond and carbon to create a very black and scratch proof surface. The bangles are also available in 18k gold versions, and can be set with diamonds. A line of cuff links, designed in the round bezel motif, perfectly complements the
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Speedometer Official cuff links match the design of watch bezels.
bracelets and completes the look. Watch lovers also know that their collections need care and safeguarding. The ArmandoG line of safes and watch winders are designed to work together to wind, safeguard and even display your most precious timepieces. The interior of each display safe can be customized to suit the individual needs of each collector. They are designed to accommodate the line of luxury SwissKubiK winders, which is used by many of the exclusive Swiss watch brands. In fact, a significant proportion of the SwissKubiK business is done directly with the watch brands customizing them for each brand. SwissKubiK make the winders to protect automatic or self-winding watches which, if they are not consistently worn by the owner, will use up their power reserve and eventually stop. This means complex complications, and even simple features like time, day and date, have to be reset. Using a SwissKubiK winder means that the power reserve in the watch can be maintained and the watch is ready to be worn at any time. It is also bet-
ter for the long term life and operation of the watch to keep it running. Each SwissKubiK winder is USB computer interface compatible. ArmandoG takes the safe storage and protection of watches and jewelry to a higher level. Each safe is fitted with an electronic key pad system with options available that include fingerprint recognition technology and key locks. The popular URSUS line has an interior that is fitted with a specific number of cells that hold 12, 24 or 36 watch winders at once. Each cell can hold either a SwissKubiK single watch winder or a drawer unit for jewelry. Safes are manufactured and have been tested to the standards as set out in the European Norm EN 1143-1. The safes have a solid steel door, but can be fitted instead with a security glass panel so that the timepieces can be on display. The largest safe from ArmandoG is the GLADIOR, which has a fully retractable safe door and allows access on both sides to a total of 80 SwissKubiK watch winders – 40 on each side.
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Speedometer Official bezel bangle
The Speedometer Official bangle is designed to resemble the bezels of elite watch brands.
The ArmandoG safe, filled with SwissKubiK watch winders. The door is made of security glass, so it is also a display case.
For information about SwissKubiK, ArmandoG and Speedometer Official bangles, contact Luxury Products International, info@luxuryproductsinternational.com 347-329-2971, www.luxuryproductsinternational.com Fall/Winter 2014
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Swiss quality. The travel version. The Swiss are known for having high standards. So as the airline of Switzerland, we offer the ultimate in comfort on every ight by offering service and hospitality you can count on. For information or reservations for nonstop ights from the USA to Switzerland, contact your travel agent or visit us on swiss.com
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14 15:11
Have a Need for Speed? In a world full of watches too valuable to risk to the elements, and too delicate to expose to reality, Reactor is proud to be the watch you wear while going faster than you’ve ever gone. Join us and see that beautiful doesn’t have to mean fragile. NEW! Warp Tachymeter Chrono
• Fixed tachymeter bezel measures speed • Solid forged 316L stainless steel case with stainless bracelet or leather strap
• Comfortable 45mm case design • 1/20th sec. chrono with big date • 100% depth tested to 200M/660Ft
©2014
One of more than 100 styles from $225 to $1500 U.S.
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Learn more & find a dealer near you at reactorwatch.com
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THE ROSETTA STONE COLLECTION
Translucent Ruby Red and Opaque Onyx and Ruby in Gold Vermeil Rosetta Stone Pen
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hen we discover a craftsman or craftsmen of outstanding skill and refinement, we feel it is our editorial responsibility to highlight their work. The David Oscarson series of Limited Edition writing instruments has a complete commitment to quality,
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Translucent Gray and Opaque Onyx and Ruby Rosetta Stone Pen
precision, and elegance that has earned them such a place in our magazine. By combining modern manufacturing with classically developed techniques, such as their signature Guilloche finishing process, they are able to create writing instruments of unmatched beauty, character, and function.Â
Oscarson’s pens are crafted in limited editions. With only a handful of goldsmiths working in the shop, only ten pens can be created per week and each production run takes over two months to complete. Painstakingly enameled with hand-ground mixtures, the surfaces of these writing instru-
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BY DAVID OSCARSON
Top of the Rosetta Stone Pen, which features a Ptolemaic Coin from the period of Ptolemy, the top features Ptolemy V himself
Translucent Sapphire Blue and Opaque Onyx, Ruby and Sapphire Rosetta Stone Pen
ments glow with bright, lively colors. These old-world production techniques keep David Oscarson a small operation, but one that values quality over quantity. We’re proud to have the opportunity to announce David Oscarson’s newest creation, the Rosetta Stone collection. These pens have been produced in
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three primary color variations, each in a limited run of only 77 pieces. Crafted from .925 Sterling Silver, these pens are the first from Oscarson to feature moving parts - two rotating barrel sections that mirror the three sections of the historical Rosetta Stone. The Hieroglyphic, Demotic, and Greek sections of the pen, when aligned, form the
The reverse side of the coin is featured on the bottom of the pen barrel
phrase “Ptolemy, Ever Living, Beloved of Ptah” - a dedication to Ptolemy V, the Roman ruler of Egypt. Just as the discovery of the Rosetta Stone unlocked great scholarly and cultural understanding, these pens may unlock a world of possibilities for those who use them for work or pleasure. Fall/Winter 2014
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A Premier Collection of Cubist Art Debuts at the Met
Georges Braque, Mandolin and Fruit Dish, early 1909, oil on canvas; 15 1/8 x 18 1/8 in.The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Promised Gift from the Leonard A. Lauder Cubist Collection © 2014 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York / ADAGP, Paris
A
nchored nchoredbybyworks works byby Georges Georges Braque, BraJuan que, Gris, Juan Fernand Gris, Fernand Léger, Léger, and Pablo and Picasso, Cubism: The Leonard A. Lauder Collection provides the first opportunity to experience the breadth of works in the renown art collector’s recent gift to The Metropolitan Museum of Art. This exhibition, the most important exhibition of cubists in more than 30 years, traces the invention and development of Cubism using iconic examples from the collection, with its unparalleled holdings in this foundational modernist
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movement. Pledged to the museum in April 2013, the collection includes 79 paintings, works on paper, and sculpture, including the Lauder’s most recent addition, Léger’s The Village. In all, it will include 17 works by Braque, 14 by Gris, 15 by Léger, and 33 by Picasso. Rich in modernist pictures by Picasso and Braque, the exhibition will also include an unprecedented number of papiers collé by Juan Gris and a stunning array of Léger’s most famous series, Contrasts of Forms. Over the past 40 years, Leonard Lauder
has selectively acquired masterpieces and seminal works to create the most important collection in private hands of works by the four preeminent Cubist artists: Mr. Lauder made his first two Cubist acquisitions in 1976 and continues to add to the collection, which is distinguished by its quality, focus, and depth. Cubism was the most influential art movement of the 20th century: it radically destroyed traditional illusionism in painting, revolutionized the way we see the world (as Juan Gris said), and paved the way for the
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pure abstraction that dominated Western art for the next 50 years. Led by Picasso and Braque, the Cubists dismantled traditional perspective and modeling in the round in order to emphasize the two-dimensional picture plane. Cubist collage introduced fragments of mass-produced popular culture into pictures, thereby changing the very definition of art. More than half of the Leonard A. Lauder Cubist Collection focuses on the six-year period, 1909-14, during which Braque and Picasso—the two founders of the Cubist movement—collaborated closely. Their partnership began in earnest in the fall of 1908, when the visionary dealer Daniel-Henry Kahnweiler exhibited Braque’s most recent paintings in his Paris gallery. Henri Matisse is known to have disparaged Braque’s pictures as “painting made of small cubes”; the term Cubism first appeared in print in Louis Vauxcelles’s review of the Kahnweiler exhibition. The Collection includes two landscapes from this historic show: The Terrace at the Hôtel Mistral (1907), which marks Braque’s transition from Fauvism to Cubism, and the iconic Trees at L’Estaque (1908), which inaugurates Cubism. By 1909 Braque and Picasso were inseparable. As Picasso later recounted, “Almost every evening, either I went to Braque’s studio or he came to mine. Each of us had to see what the other had done during the day. We criticized each other’s work. A canvas wasn’t finished until both of us felt it was.” A pair of identically sized paintings from 1911 in the Leonard A. Lauder Cubist Collection—Braque’s Still Life with Clarinet (Bottle and Clarinet) and Picasso’s Pedestal Table, Glasses, Cups, Mandolin—exemplify a pivotal moment in the history of Cubism, when the two artists began to picture objects from different points of view in an increasingly shallow space. Only a few clues were retained to help viewers decode the picture, the profile of an instrument or the tassel of a curtain. As the works hovered on the brink of illegibility, Braque and Picasso began to introduce “certainties,” as Braque called them: painted letters and words and, soon after, actual pieces of rope, newspaper, sheet music, and brand labels. They inspired other artists to incorporate all kinds of unorthodox materials into works of art. The Leonard A. Lauder Cubist Collection contains such landmark paintings as Picasso’s landscape The Oil Mill (1909), which was one of the first Cubist pictures reproduced in Italy. After seeing it in the December 1911 issue of the Florentine journal La Voce, the Italian Futurists were inspired to modernize their style and engage in a rivalry with their French peers. Picasso’s Still Life with Fan: “L’Indépendant” (1911), in the Lauder Cllection, is one of the first works in which he experimented
Pablo Picasso, , late 1913–early 1914, plaster, oil, Conté crayon, and sand on canvas; 28 3/4 x 23 1/2 in., The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Promised Gift from the Leonard A. Lauder Cubist Collection © 2014 Estate of Pablo Picasso / ARS New York
Georges Braque, Violin: "Mozart Kubelick", spring 1912, oil on canvas; 18 x 24 in., The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Promised Gift, Leonard A. Lauder Cubist Collection © 2014 ARS, New York / ADAGP, Paris
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with painted typography, in this case the gothic type masthead of L’Indépendant, the local newspaper of Céret in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Braque’s Fruit Dish and Glass (1912), the very first Cubist papier collé (paper collage) ever created, is also in the collection. Collages were a revolutionary Cubist art form in which ready-made objects were incorporated into fine art. In the summer of 1912, while vacationing with Picasso in the south of France, Braque saw imitation wood-grain wallpaper in a store window. He waited until Picasso left town before buying the faux bois paper and pasting it into a still-life composition. Braque’s decision to use mechanically printed, illusionistic wallpaper to represent the texture and color of a wooden table marked a turning point in Cubism. Braque later recounted, “After having made the papier collé [Fruit Dish and Glass], I felt a great shock, and it was an even greater shock for Picasso when I showed it to him.” Braque and Picasso shared an interest in aviation, which extended to Braque’s nickname, “Wilburg” (after Wilbur Wright). The most famous example of their aviation puns is Picasso’s The Scallop Shell: “Notre Avenir est dans l’Air” (1912). This oval-shaped painting is simultaneously a representation of a tabletop and a blatantly flat canvas. The still-life elements of the work include a trompe l’oeil rendering of a pamphlet that had been issued by the French government in February 1912 to raise public support for military aviation. Picasso included it as a witty reference to his and Braque’s daring, groundbreaking Cubist enterprise. Picasso’s synthetic Cubist masterpiece Woman in a Chemise in an Armchair (191314) is one of the artist’s most radical and imposing paintings. This provocative and highly eroticized image was hailed by André Breton in his seminal text Surrealism and Painting (1928). The Leonard A. Lauder Cubist Collection also holds examples of two key Cubist sculptures: a rare cast of Picasso’s Head of a Woman (Fernande) (1909), which introduced the analytic Cubist style into three dimensions, and The Absinthe Glass (1914), which signaled the end of traditionally modeled sculpture. Each of the six casts in the edition was hand-painted by Picasso and includes an actual perforated tin absinthe spoon, thus blurring the boundaries between a multiple and a unique work of art. Still lifes with flutes, guitars, mandolins, violins, and sheet music are indicative of Braque’s and Picasso’s personal pastimes as well as their enthusiasm for popular vaudeville tunes. Their word play and images combine ribald jokes and erudite references, high and low, as
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well as allusions to the Cubist movement and commentary on world events. In Violin: “Mozart Kubelick” (1912), for example, Braque indulged in a double entendre by including the name of the famed Czech violinist Jan Kubelik (1880-1940). The first three letters of his name (“KUB”) were those of a common bouillon cube, a foodstuff widely advertised on posters of the period, much to the delight of Braque and Picasso, who appreciated the pun on the word Cubism. Violin: “Mozart/ Kubelick” was one of three pictures by Braque that Kahnweiler sent to the New York Armory Show of 1913, the exhibition that introduced European modernism to the American public. It became one of the most caricatured Cubist images in the American press, which delighted in pointing out that Braque had put the “cube in Kubelik” and also that he had misspelled the maestro’s name. According to legend, a few years earlier, on his way to visit Picasso at the Bateau-Lavoir, the rundown artist complex in Montmartre, Kahnweiler had glanced into the open window of Juan Gris’s studio and asked to see his work. In late 1912, the dealer began representing Gris. Whereas Braque and Picasso exhibited exclusively with Kahnweiler, Gris sent work to the annual Salon displays, bringing wider visibility to the new Cubist style. The Futurist artist Umberto Boccioni, for example, was directly influenced by Gris’s Head of a Woman (Portrait of the Artist’s Mother) after he saw it at the spring 1912 Salon des Indépendants. Gris took the analytic Cubism of Braque and Picasso and made it his own with precisely delineated compositions, flattened planes, and rhythmic surface patterns that prefigure the synthetic Cubism of the war years. The Leonard A. Lauder Cubist Collection contains an unparalleled selection of six painted collages that Gris created during the first half of 1914. Several of them incorporate wry references to the fictional criminal mastermind Fantômas, the subject of a wildly popular crime series. The shadowy Man at the Café (1914) hides his face behind a newspaper, made up of an actual clipping whose headline pointedly reads: “Bertillonage/ One will no longer be able to fake works of art.” Gris alludes to the criminal identification systems, or Bertillonage, of Alphonse Bertillon, one of the fathers of forensic science, whose methods were featured in the storylines of the Fantômas films. With mock suspense, Gris suggests that, having read about the latest criminal detection methods in the newspaper, the man at the table will escape the authorities once again—as will the Cubist masterminds in their games of visual deception. In 1913, Kahnweiler added Fernand Léger to his stable of artists. Like Gris, Léger
developed Cubism into a distinctive and influential style, in which dynamic intersections of spherical, cylindrical, and cubic forms evoked the new, syncopated rhythms of modern life. The Leonard A. Lauder Cubist Collection features several important works from Léger’s series Contrasts of Forms, wherein Léger worked out his primary oppositions of light and dark, angled and curved planes, color and line. The jaunty image of The Smoker (1914), with its body reduced to basic geometric parts, anticipates the dehumanization that Léger would experience firsthand during World War I. Gris and Picasso, both Spanish citizens, remained in France during the war. Picasso’s political sentiments are evident in the Collection’s Playing Cards, Glasses, Bottle of Rum: “Vive la France” (summer 1914; partially reworked 1915). Braque and Léger were among the many French artists who were mobilized to the Front. Léger was injured and after more than a year’s hospitalization he began working on Composition (The Typographer) (1918-19), one of the largest Cubist works ever painted. Its mural-like size anticipates his collaboration in the 1920s with the architect Le Corbusier. Composition (The Typographer), the definitive version of a series of three, reflects the affinity Léger felt toward the anonymous working man and his fascination with the trappings of modern Paris, from advertisements to architecture. Léger drew on his background as an architectural draftsman in celebrating the beauty of machines and in this way led Cubism into a new modernist machine aesthetic.
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he gift of these works to the Met and this exhibition corresponds with the establishment of a new research center for modern art at the museum. The Leonard A. Lauder Research Center for Modern Art will serve as a center for scholarship, archival documentation and collections, and innovative approaches to studying the history of Cubism, its origins and influence. The Center has been envisioned by Mr. Lauder as a means to transform the presence of modern art at the Metropolitan in dialogue with its encyclopedic collections. With its own dedicated two-year fellowships—with two new recipients arriving each year—the Center will also sustain focused research on all aspects of modernism, the Leonard A. Lauder Collection and the Metropolitan Museum’s growing holdings of early and mid-20th-century art.
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Fernand Léger, Composition (The Typographer), 1918–19, oil on canvas; 98 1/4 x 72 1/4 in., The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Promised Gift from the Leonard A. Lauder Cubist Collection, © 2014 Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York / ADAGP, Paris
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TUDOR SERIES 6 HOURS AT WATKINS GLEN INTERNATIONAL Article and photography by Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor
Overall winning car, the Spirit of Daytona, Daytona Prototype Claws with Richard Westbrook and Michael Valiante as the drivers.
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The Extreme Speed Motorsports Honda HPD ARX-03b prototype with Scott Sharp driving.
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Michele Rugolo in the Spirit of Race Ferrari 458 Italia GTD leading a pack into the heel of the boot section of the track.
ack when English sports cars were just getting hot following WWII, a local enthusiast named Cameron Argetsinger, became an early member of the SCCA (Sports Car Club of America), an organization devoted to this new breed of cars that championed racing them here in America. His family lived in Utica, New York and he was a law student at Cornell. He enthusiastically proposed an amateur road race to his peers, to be held directly
across the famous Seneca Lake from Ithaca. He suggested calling it the Watkins Glen Grand Prix. After he received full support from the local Chamber of Commerce, the real work began. Creating what turned out to be a 6.6 mile course using mostly local paved roads in the town, as well as a few short stretches of then gravel roads, the SCCA and the New York Railroad approved the project. Trains were stopped and roads were closed in order for the race to take place.
At 12 noon on October 2nd, 1948, the first race took place. During the race, one of the entrants, William Milliken, a noted aircraft dynamics expert, rolled his Bugatti 35 on the last lap giving the now famous name, “Milliken’s Corner” to that section of the rural roadway. The race ran annually through the public roads until it was deemed no longer safe, due to accidents and a couple of tragic deaths, including one of a famous driver of the time, Sam Collier and another of Fall/Winter 2014
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a little boy who was struck and killed as a car went out of control through the hay bales at the start of the race on the front straight. In response to the pressure from New York State officials, organized racing on public roads was under pressure to be banned. As a solution to this problem, a group of enthusiasts including Argetsinger, was able to secure a plot of land high on a hill top in the town of Dix, just a few miles from the downtown Watkins Glen location. After agreements had been reached with the locals and New York State officials, a 4.6 mile course was laid out and constructed under the Watkins Glen Grand Prix Corporation name. 1953 saw the very first race run at the new circuit. In the ensuing years, much discourse took place between the race organizers and the SCCA. Management within the SCCA and those in charge at the new track did not see eye to eye. For several years (including 1953) the SCCA did not sanction racing, but racing went on regardless with a limited number of drivers. By 1957, compromises were made and the course was reduced to 2.3 miles in length. For the next several years, the track went through more changes including legal issues and continued confrontations with the SCCA. But by 1961, Watkins Glen International had established itself. The first US Grand Prix for Formula One cars was held that year, adding to its numerous sports car races. Even NASCAR took a close look at The Glen, although it would be many years before they took to the track. Everything from Indy Cars, Formula 5000, Vintage cars, Can-Am, and Trans-Am raced there. In 1981 hard times hit the track again. It was closed down due to the need for serious repairs, and the track filed for bankruptcy. Nearby, in the town of Corning, sat the world famous Corning Glass Works. A subsid62
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The radical new Delta Wing DWC13 Prototype of Gabby Chaves.
Both of the GTLM SRT Motorsports Dodge Viper SRT-GTS R cars make a routine pit stop together.
Cars entering the “Bus Stop� Chicane.
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iary of CGW purchased Watkins Glen International in 1983 and formed a partnership with the International Speedway Corporation (who owned other tracks at the time including Daytona International Speedway). After a ton of money was poured into WGI to fund extensive improvements, this track would soon become one of the finest in the world. It is often called the only real hallowed race track of the United States. Several famous drivers have lost their lives here in both Formula One and NASCAR racing. Additional safety procedures were put into effect including two chicanes (a circuitous deviation from a straightaway). The idea was to slow the cars down before they enter the wide but tight right hander that leads into the long left hander down into the boot area. Originally, a chicane known as “Scheckter Chicane” was put in place thanks to F1 driver Jody Scheckter, who saw his friend Francois Cevert beheaded in 1973 just before the uphill esses. Cevert was Jackie Stewart’s team mate and it was during that practice session that Stewart hung up his helmet for the final time after his best friend’s death. JD McDuffie, a popular NASCAR driver also lost his life at the end of the back straight as his car went off into the woods on driver’s left. Scheckter Chicane was removed when the track was purchased in 1983, and in 1992 the “Bus Stop” chicane was added to the end of the long back straightaway. When NASCAR started to race here, in the late 1980’s, many of the beautiful trees and forest areas were thinned to make room for more travel and RV vehicles. It was a shame to see so much beauty cut down, but in the name of business and revenue, it was gradually accepted. Today, well over half a million people attend races at Watkins Glen each year. During the fall, the changing natural colors make for glorious photographs and during the spring the place is as green as a lush golf course. Permanent
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Patrick Dempsey in the GTD Dempsey Racing Porsche 911 GT America and Spencer Pumpelly right behind in his GTD Audi R8LM and Oliver Gavin in the GTLM Corvette.
Autograph sessions are always fun for everyone with long lines especially when driver/actor Patrick Dempsey is signing and competing. stands have been put into place along the course to accompany the few concrete original ones at the end of turn one. The views are clear and unobstructed for all fans regardless of where you decide to view the races. A few years ago the old media center was torn down and an ultra-modern media center with two large rooms for photographers and PR was built. The building houses conferences rooms, a huge room used for catering banquets, as well as radio studios and a number of other rooms to accommodate other needs.
Each year since the middle of the 1970’s, the track has played host to a race known as the 6 hours of Watkins Glen. Originally called the Continental 6 hours, then later known as The Camel GT 6hr, it eventually evolved over time into the 6 hours at Watkins Glen. Grand Am began racing there in 2000 and continued twice a year for almost 12 years running the 6 hour in late June and joining NASCAR on their weekend in August. The tradition continues as the new Tudor Sports Car Series has taken hold in 2014 and the first combination of the Fall/Winter 2014
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The overall winners, Richard Westbrook and Michael Valiante celebrate their win today atop their DP Corvette in Winners Circle to the snapping of cameras from fans and photographers. old American LeMans Series cars do battle with the former Grand Am Series sports cars. This year, some 55 cars in four classes competed on the historic full grand prix course at WGI. Now known as the Sahlen’s Six Hours of the Glen (Sahlen’s, a meat company, is the title sponsor) the race went off without a hitch. With clear skies and very little wind and relatively low humidity, the track was packed with fans. Campers and day trippers came to watch the competition which was as fierce as ever, both on the track and in the pits. Taking the overall win was The Spirit of Daytona Corvette Daytona Prototype driven by team mates Richard Westbrook and Michael Valiante, in the Prototype class. Taking the win in the Prototype Challenge class was Jon Bennett and Colin Braun in their Core Autosport Oreca FLM09 open cockpit car. In the GT LeMans Class, Jan Magnussen and Antonio Garcia took the checkered flag as a win in their Compuware Chevy Corvette C7R machine. Dane Cameron and Markus Palttala won the GT Daytona class in their Turner Mo64
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torsport BMW Z4 machine. Watkins Glen International is known as a very fast, sometimes dangerous, thrilling and extremely rewarding course to drive. It, like so many other race courses, requires consistent concentration by the drivers. Over a six hour race this becomes very fatiguing. Racing in today’s world is so different from that of the past. For many years it was customary to take one’s time and not come blasting out of the start gate full bore and stay that way to the end. At times teams would order a driver to play rabbit in the old style of a driver running full tilt from the start making the competition chase after him in hopes that the competition would break down trying to keep up. Today that doesn’t really apply. It is a full sprint race from the time the starter throws that green flag and the radios in the drivers ears blast as their team managers yell ”Green Green Green” in hopes of a successful scramble for that first corner and the lead. The cars and drivers are all very fit for these sprints whether for a 2.75 hour race, 3 hour race, 6 hour, 12 hour or even now the 24 hour events.
The cars are solid and tight and flexible with all kinds of safety devices and constructed to protect the driver in almost all crash conditions. The drivers are all top athletes who spend several hours a day working at maintaining their fitness levels and their aerobic strength. Shifting constantly, braking, turning in and accelerating out of a corner with tremendous G-forces takes a lot of effort and stamina. Watkins Glen is the kind of race course that will reward you well if you can hold up without making any mistakes at the wheel. The 6 hour event is a wonderful weekend for those who want to take in the smells, the colors and the action of motor racing at its finest. The excitement of the entire place creates a fantastic memory. It is a race any enthusiast should really attend. And it is one of those endurance races that makes you realize how friendly the drivers and teams are and how social an environment a race track can be to the general public: how serious a team sport auto racing really is.
TUDOR SERIES 6 HOURS
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FEATURING SELECTED PHOTOGRAPHS FROM HIGHLAND HEART BY DAVID EUSTACE
SCOTLAND
by Pamela Bailey
Taking the High Road with David Eustace Human beings are visual creatures. We respond to images and the stories they tell, and many of us are photography enthusiasts keen to capture those important moments and seminal experiences that serve to define our lives. The unsurpassed joy surrounding the birth of a child, the exhilaration of graduation day, the emotional release at the safe return of a family member serving in the armed forces in one of our contemporary world’s many conflict zones. And then there are those who are blessed with a rare and remarkable gift for seeing the world in a special way, in all its myriad textures and complexities, who succeed in capturing such nuanced images that they resonate deeply, reminding us of our shared humanity in such a visceral and powerful manner that we cannot help but respond. Scottish photographer David Eustace is one such artist. A master of his craft whose exquisite images immediately grab our attention with each, in its way, conveying the warmth, compassion and intelligence of the man himself. David holds no truck with the ubiquitous practice of retouching images
in post production – with him, what he sees is what you get in all its breathtaking glory. Whether he is photographing the rugged Scottish landscape he so loves, or immortalizing one of the many international celebrities who have sat for him including Sophia Loren, Sir Paul McCartney, Dame Judi Dench, John Hurt and Ewan McGregor. So striking are the portraits that one can understand why First Nations people initially feared having their likeness captured in case the image should spirit away their very essence. In February 2015 a major international exhibition of David Eustace’s work, with accompanying book, is being staged at The Scottish Gallery: the oldest privately-owned fine art gallery in Scotland. David Eustace is the only photographer ever to have gained representation with them. www.scottishgallery.co.uk. Challenging, however, to arrive at the optimum blend of images from a 25-year career which has already been awarded an Honorary Doctor of Arts from his alma mater, Napier University in Edinburgh, Scotland. Work that has found a Fall/Winter 2014
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home in the collections of The Scottish National Portrait Gallery, and the UK’s National Portrait Gallery in London. David has himself been the subject of a number of documentaries including one by the BBC profiling his exhibition at London’s Cork Street Gallery. His portraits have featured in The Wall Street Journal, Vogue and The Sunday Times to name but a few. Vanity Fair’s Photography Director Susan White provided the foreword for the book accompanying the exhibition, both entitled “I write to tell you of a boy born only yesterday……: “I first met David more than 10 years ago and he struck me then as a man on a quest. He seemed a seeker, of sorts, out to answer his life’s questions by turning his lens on others. … I remember thinking that I was meeting a man and a photographer not quite content with the making of beautiful imagery, a photographer who might be looking for something beyond the world of commercial photography….. He brings our gaze deep into the horizon, reminding us how difficult it is to see the end from the beginning ..” With such a wealth of creative talent, one might reasonably expect a somewhat aloof personality. Nothing could be further from the truth. In person, David Eustace is warm and engaging, a natural raconteur with a seemingly endless stream of wonderfully entertaining anecdotes, Scottish to his core. Perhaps it stems from his former careers in the Royal Navy and the prison service that he should appear so down-to-earth, with a sharp intellect, warmth and affability that let him immediately connect with his subjects. Skills that he clearly honed working for seven years with Scotland’s most notorious criminals. Though he has worked with some of the world’s most successful power companies and retail operations, David maintains he is not a commercial photographer. Rather his work is art-based yet has a commercial value. He occupies the space inbetween, caring passionately about his work, which is consistenly authentic and able to communicate on a deeply human level. Commenting on his forthcoming exhibition, David said: “I am truly honored to have Scotland’s oldest private gallery representing me and staging this exhibition. In common with every aspect of my work, the show’s title - I write to tell you of a boy born only yesterday - is extremely personal. It’s the opening line of the letter sent to my parents from the adoption agency in November 1961 advising them of my arrival in this world.”
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I feel at peace here. A place where I can stop, listen and am reminded of the simple sounds of the earth. A place I know as home.
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A landscape that’s changed little over many centuries yet daily offers new wondrous sights depending simply on the seasons and shifting winds.
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My hope is that these images offer a window on a moment,
David’s much-loved adoptive parents died when the artist was in his twenties and – a decade later – he was reunited with his birth mother. Though he doesn’t put much store by coincidences, David learned that his mother – a young single girl from the Scottish Highlands – held him for the last time, tightly wrapped in a shawl as the snow fell gently in Scotland’s beautiful capital city, hoping that he would find a good home with loving parents. In a remarkable recent twist of fate, on first visiting the new family home in Edinburgh, she exclaimed with surprise and heartfelt emotion that the view from the window was precisely the same as on that snowy day 51 years previously. David has travelled extensively, internationally, and these
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globetrotting trips have resulted in remarkable bodies of work including an Anthropologie-commissioned project “In search of Eustace (Texas)” to document America, passing through Death Valley and Monument Valley. His 16 year-old daughter Rachael accompanied David on the dream road trip, which proved immensely popular with young girls keen to embark on their own adventure with their fathers. NBC news anchor Tom Brokaw then approached David before replicating the journey for a documentary titled “American Character: Along Highway 50”. A separate exhibition – Highland Heart – commissioned by the Scottish Government and Napier University for New York’s Tartan Week 2013 was opened by Scotland’s then First
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a split second when this land smiled at me and I felt humbled.
Minister, Alex Salmond. The show ran to universal acclaim at the Hudson Gallery in midtown Manhattan. A selection of those images are reproduced here. Alex Salmond remains a powerful political influence and was the powerhouse behind the recent referendum in which 45 per cent of Scottish voters opted for independence. David continues: “Trust and creative control are essential and allow me to produce my best work. Both were true of Highland Heart. I’m particularly drawn to Scotland’s Western Highlands and the islands of the inner and outer Hebrides. There is something so special about those places. The light is incredible, and it often genuinely feels as if you’re standing at the edge of the world.”
David’s love of his native land also extends to a love of another Scottish specialty: fine Scotch whisky, and he has become a collector since his natural mother gave him the hipflask owned by his maternal grandfather who worked for 40 years in the scotch whisky industry. Within three weeks of receiving the gift, he was commissioned by the Scottish Malt Whisky Association which has since asked him to become one of their international Ambassadors, regularly sending him bottles to taste before spreading the word. The Wall Street Journal cemented matters by commissioning a portrait of master whisky blender Rachel Barrie. David photographed celebrity chef Jamie Oliver’s first ever cookery book. The like-minded friends agree that scotch is
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far more than simply a drink. Instead it should be savored, like fine wine, since anything that takes 40 years to mature deserves our respect. Jamie Oliver has a myriad of wonderful suggestions for incorporating scotch into delicious recipes – for example, succulent Highland mussels with fresh smoked haddock in a creamy sauce subtly imbued with a smooth scotch such as Talisker from the isle of Skye. His update of Cranachan, a traditional Scottish dessert, features layers of summer berries, oatmeal and cream with a healthy dash of scotch. And for those who prefer their tipple to maintain a little distance from their sweet indulgence, try pairing a 25 year-old Speyside single malt to perfectly complement sticky toffee pudding.
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Like David himself, Scots over the centuries have travelled to the four corners of the earth, and many of us go on discover a connection with Scotland when tracing our family tree. Hopefully, in the not so distant future, you too will have the chance to experience this magnificent land with its extraordinary landscapes. Discover for yourself the warmth of its people, the richness of its culture and be introduced to the delights of uisge beatha (the water of life) as the Scots call their amber nectar. This small land has a remarkable ability to reach into the soul to make such adventures simply unforgettable. u
SCOTLAND
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SULTANA A True Swiss Brand
Sultana was one of the earliest watch brands founded in Switzerland by Carol Besler
S
ultana watches was founded in 1937 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, in the heart of Switzerland’s watchmaking district, by Paul Gaston Schwarz. In the quest for the ultimate perfection of its creations, Sultana joined forces in 1950 with Le Phare, one of the oldest watch manufacturers in Switzerland, in 1950. This allowed Sultana to benefit from Le Phare’s world-renowned expertise and become one of the world’s largest producers of chronographs in Switzerland. Even today, Sultana watches are still created, produced and assembled in the original workshops of the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, La Chaux-de-Fonds, in the heart of the Jura mountains. Every Sultana watch is a distillation of master craftsmanship that has been handed down through generations of irreplaceable watchmakers. It is a combination of aesthetics and precision. Sultana has been honored several times, including the Grand Prix award at the Internationale de Thessalonique in Greece in 1939. In 1992 the management and ownership of Sultana changed. The new and current owner is the Renley Group, which owns three brands: Sultana, Jean d' Eve and Buler. Sultana products now stand poised to conquer new worldwide markets. Their classical and elegant design, the supreme production quality and their high degree of technical perfection are the successful elements needed to create authentic and timeless pieces. Sultana is distributed in over 60 countries. For information, please contact info@swissbrandsinc.com
From the Ariadne collection by Sultana, with a gold-plated and steel case and Swiss made quartz movement. It is water resistant to 50 meters.
From the Aeneas collection by Sultana, with a gold-plated and steel case, silvery white dial with wave pattern and Roman numerals. The movement is Swiss made quartz. The Aeneas collection is named for the Trojan hero who founded the city of Rome.
A vintage timepiece from Sultana Fall/Winter 2014
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Hamilton Jewelers Hess Fine Art
Simons Jewelers
Kansas City
Scheherazade
Minneapolis J. B. Hudson
St. Louis Park Continental Diamond MISSISSIPPI
Ca’d’Oro Horologio Hyde Park Las Vegas NEW HAMPSHIRE
Nashua Barmakian Jewelers NEW JERSEY
Cliffside Park D’Amore Jewelers
Cranford Martin Jewelers
Jersey City Diamond Hut Jewelers
Livingston George Press Fine Jewelers
Morristown Braunschweiger Jewelers
Princeton Hamilton Jewelers
Somers Point Bernie Robbins Jewelers
Westwood LaViano Jewelers NEW MEXICO
Albuquerque Butterfield Jewelers
Ridgeland Sollberger Watches, Clocks & Jewelry
C. D. Peacock
Fall/Winter 2014
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WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES NEW YORK
OHIO
TEXAS
CARIBBEAN
Bayside
Canton
Amarillo
Netherland Antilles
Alicia’s Jewelers
Brooklyn
Cleveland
Simpson Jewelers William Barthman Jewelers
East Hampton London Jewelers H. L. Gross & Bro. Jewelers
Huntington Maddaloni Jewelers
Manhasset London Jewelers
New Rochelle T & R Jewelers
New York
Toledo Harold Jaffe Jewelers OKLAHOMA B. C. Clark Jewelers Samuel Gordon Jewelers PENNSYLVANIA
Exton Benari Jewelers
Mars Casa D’Oro Jewelers
Newtown Bernie Robbins Jewelers
Cellini Wempe Jewelers William Barthman Jewelers
Rochester
Pittsburgh Henne Jewelers
Scranton Boccardo Jewelers
Cornell’s Jewelers Mann’s Jewelers
Scarsdale Wilson & Son Jewelers NORTH CAROLINA
Charlotte Fink's Jewelers
Durham Fink's Jewelers
Greensboro Fink's Jewelers
Winston-Salem Windsor Jewelers NORTH DAKOTA
Fargo Royal Jewelers, Inc.
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Alson Jewelers
Oklahoma City
Garden City
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Gasser Jewelers
St. Davids Bernie Robbins Jewelers RHODE ISLAND
Barrington Thomas B. Gray Jewelers SOUTH CAROLINA
Duncan & Boyd
Dallas deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry Neiman Marcus
El Paso Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry & Watches
Frisco Markham Fine Jewelers
Freeport Duty Free, Curacao Freeport Jewelry & Gifts, Curacao
Virgin Islands Jewels, St. Thomas Royal Caribbean, St. Thomas Trident Jewels & Time, St. Thomas
Houston I. W. Marks Jewelers Zadok Jewelers
Sugarland I. W. Marks Jewelers VIRGINIA
Dulles Fink's Jewelers
McLean Fink’s Jewelers
Norfolk Fink's Jewelers
Richmond Fink's Jewelers Schwarzschild Jewelers WASHINGTON
Seattle Turgeon-Raine
Greenville Geiss & Sons SOUTH DAKOTA
Sioux Falls Gunderson’s Jewelers TENNESSEE
Nashville King Jewelers
CARIBBEAN
Aruba Little Europe, Oranjestad Time Square, Oranjestad
Bahamas John Bull, Nassau Quantum Duty Free, Nassau
Fall/Winter 2014
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The Art of Swiss Watchmaking
SKELETON COLLECTION 17 Jewel Swiss Unitas MVT | Rose/Gray/Rhodium Movement Sapphire Crystal | Highly Decorated Front & Back | 165 Feet WR.
$1,375 MSRP
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watch collector JAEGER-LeCOULTRE DUOMÈTRE UNIQUE TRAVEL TIME This watch enables up-to-the-minute adjustment of the second time zone using pushpieces at 8 and 10 o’clock. The movement, Caliber 383, has two separate mechanisms, each driven by its own mainspring barrel and each with its own power reserve indicator. One displays the local time, and the second drives a second time zone. A subdial at 2 o’clock features the hour and minute hand for home time, while the subdial at 10 o’clock hosts the jumping hour and minutes of the travel time, which is synchronized to the world map surrounded by the time-zone indications and the day/night ring. The case is 18k pink gold. Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
CHOPARD HISTORIC GRAND PRIX DE MONACO CHRONOGRAPH Since 2002, Chopard has also been a sponsor of the Historic Grand Prix de Monaco, which involves vintage racing cars dating from the 1920s to 1985. This year, Chopard is launching a full-fledged collection related to this race. The new collection of Grand Prix de Monaco Historique watches includes this chronograph, featuring hour and minute totalizers, a small seconds and a central chronograph seconds hand, driven by an automatic movement. It has a bead-blasted titanium case, which is extremely lightweight and hard. The yellow highlights are a nod to the race’s official colors. Chopard USA 800-CHOPARD www.chopard.com
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watch collector BULGARI ROMA Part of the Bulgari Bulgari collection, the Bulgari Roma is a tribute to the company’s 130-year history. The bezel of the 39mm case is engraved with the iconic “Bulgari Roma” name and represents timeless classicism combined with architectural modernity. It contains the self-winding manufacture Caliber BVL 131 M, with a 72-hour power reserve. The minimalist lacquered dial is underscored by the Bulgari name. Three versions are available: one in 18k white gold with an intense blue lacquered dial bearing rhodiumed hour-markers; and the other two in 18k pink gold adorned with a white or black lacquered dial punctuated by pink gold-plated hour-markers. It is a limited edition of 130 pieces. Bulgari 1-800-BULGARI www.bulgari.com
F.P. JOURNE OCTA SPORT The Octa Sport is the newest version of the LineSport collection, and is made of grade 5 titanium. This is a prestige F.P. Journe complication combined with a modern aesthetic. The case is extremely light and wearable. The movement and dial are made of an aluminum alloy, with tungsten weights on the rotor, to enable automatic winding. The watch weighs only 60 grams on a strap and 70 grams on a bracelet. The titanium bracelet features rubber inserts. It contains the Caliber FPJ 1300-3, with a 120-hour power reserve. F.P. Journe 305-572-9802 www.fpjourne.com
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watch collector ROGER DUBUIS HOMMAGE MINUTE REPEATER TOURBILLON This complicated timepiece, with minute repeater and tourbillon functions, features dual micro-rotors, one driving the time and the other, the repeater function. The open caseback showcases the highly decorated movement, including oversized hammers and gongs that are flat rather than circular. This configuration, along with a special dissipator, intensifies the sound. The case is pink gold, and contains the self-winding Caliber RD104. It is a 20-piece limited edition. It was manufactured according to the standards of the Geneva Seal. Roger Dubuis 888-738-2847 www.rogerdubuis.com
CHRISTOPHE CLARET MAESTOSO The innovative movement in the Maestoso has a detent escapement, a mechanism originally invented in the 18th century for highly accurate marine chronometers. Detents are more precise because they allow for a more direct impulse from the balance wheel to the escape wheel. Marine chronometers were bolted to a horizontal surface where they remained stationary, but in a wristwatch, the detent escapement is vulnerable to lateral impacts. Claret resurrects it here by combining it with a special, patented shock absorption system. The watch has four mainspring barrels, for an 80-hour power reserve. Christophe Claret Tel: 954-610-2234 Tel: +41 79 678 13 64 www.ChristopheClaret.com
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watch collector ULYSSE NARDIN AMERIGO VESPUCCI Named after the famous explorer, Amerigo Vespucci, this watch features a cloisonné enameled dial depicting the explorer’s ship. Each segment is divided by a gold wire segment, each of which holds a different color of liquid powdered enamel. Over 500mm of fine gold wire is to make the cloisons, a practice that requires 50 working hours by the artist and 26 processes to complete each cloisonné dial. It contains the self-winding Caliber UN-815, which is COSCcertified, and has a 42-hour power reserve. Ulysse Nardin 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com
HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION DWYANE WADE This limited edition timepiece is devoted to Hublot ambassador Dwyane Wade. The 45mm case is made of polished black ceramic with six 18k gold screws. The dial is adorned with red, black and gold embellishments, reflecting the colors of Dwyane’s uniform. His signature appears at 6 o’clock on the dial. The watch contains the HUB1155 automatic skeletonized chronograph movement. It is water resistant to 50 meters. Hublot also serves as the official timekeeper of Miami Heat, Wade’s team. The watch is a numbered limited edition of 250 pieces. Hublot 800-536-0636 www.hublot.com Fall/Winter 2014
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As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers. Mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call. Visit us at www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com
BASEL FAIR BASELWORLD www.baselworld.com BULGARI Tel: 800-BULGARI www.Bulgari.com CHOPARD 800-CHOPARD www.US.Chopard.com DAVID OSCARSON Tel: 636-458-4345 www.davidoscarson.com GLYCINE Swiss Watch Consultants, LLC 80 Canal St. Manchester, NH 03101 Tel: 603-206-5195 www.glycine-watch.ch HERMES 55 East 59th Street New York, NY 10022 Tel: 800-441-4488 Tel: 212-835-6417 www.hermes.com JAEGER-LeCOULTRE 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com JEAN D’EVE info@swissbrandsinc.com www.swissbrandsinc.com
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LUMINOX LUMONDI 2301 Kerner Blvd., Ste. A San Rafael, CA 94901 Tel: 415-455-9500 www.luminox.com
PORSCHE DESIGN PEN Chartpak Luxury Brands Tel: 800-628-1910 Tel: 561-470-6925 www.chartpak.com www.porsche-design.com
MERKAVA WATCHES Tel: 866-963-3777 www.merkavawatches.com
RALPH LAUREN Tel: 877-639-7934 www.RalphLaurenWatches.com
MOVADO 650 From Road Paramus, NJ 07652 Tel: 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com
REACTOR 5312 Derry Ave., Ste. B Agoura Hills, CA 91301 Tel: 800-291-6600 www.ReactorWatch.com
NOMOS GLASHÜTTE www.nomos-glashuette.com
SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Tel: 877-FLY-SWISS www.swiss.com
PELIKAN PEN Chartpak Luxury Brands Tel: 800-628-1910 Tel: 561-470-6925 www.chartpak.com PIAGET 645 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com PORSCHE DESIGN of AMERICA 5100 Ontario Mills Parkway Ontario, CA 91764 Tel: 800-521-5152 www.porsche-design.com
TUDOR WATCH U.S.A. 665 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-897-9900 www.tudorwatch.com ULYSSE NARDIN 7900 Glades Rd., Ste. 200 Boca Raton, FL 33434-4188 Tel: 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com
SwissKubiK Luxury Products Intl. 20 Spyglass Point Circle Bedford, NH 03110 Tel: 347-329-2971 www.LuxuryProductsInternational.com TAVANNES P. O. Box 85 Valencia, PA 16059 Tel: 412-600-4240 www.tavanneswatches.com
Fall/Winter 2014
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P´3115 Laser Flex. Form and Function.
Another precision instrument innovation by Porsche Design.
Porsche Design.The Perfect Gift, for Graduations , Bridal, Holidays, Birthdays, Mothers Day, Fathers Day, and Special Occasions. Available at Fine Retail Jewelers
For Additonal Information: LuxuryBrandsGroup@Chartpak.com
Watch The Video at Chartpak.com/porsche
P-38 Lightning™ Chronograph No. 9441: 44 mm, stainless steel case, screw down crown & case back, antireflective sapphire crystal, black aluminum inlay bezel with tachymeter, water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made. A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Plane. The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the
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www.luminox.com facebook.com/Luminox
Collection.
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hermès. time reinvented.
FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR
Fall/Winter 2014 $6.95
FALL/WINTER 2014 •
hermès imbues time with a resolutely hedonistic touch by providing a space of infinite freedom. the dressage l’heure masquée watch keeps the hours hand hidden beneath the minutes hand, making its appearance only with a deliberate press on the crown-integrated pushbutton. the fleeting apparition of the playful hand vanishes as soon as the pressure is released. this delightful great escape from daily routine is entirely conceived and constructed by the manufacture hermès, and orchestrated by the self-winding h1925 movement, equipped with an exclusive patented mechanism.
1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com
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NUMBER ONE HUNDRED ELEVEN
dressage l ´ heure masquée
Scotland Cubist Art At The Met Patek Philippe’s Grandmaster Chime
RALPH LAUREN Black Safari Flying Tourbillon 11/10/14 5:59 PM