Chronos112

FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR

Winter 2014/2015 $6.95

WINTER 2014/2015 •

NUMBER ONE HUNDRED TWELVE

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A Canadian Treasure Ralph Lauren The Elegant Sportsman Movado Helps Men Help Others

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RALPH LAUREN Fine Watchmaking

P-38 Lightning™ Valjoux Chronograph No. 9461: 44 mm, stainless steel brushed case, screw down crown www.luminox.com NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS DALLAS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR & case back, antireflective sapphire crystal, fixed bezel, water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap facebook.com/Luminox with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

BETTERIDGE GREENWICH MOYER’S FINE JEWELERS CARMEL BENARI JEWELERS EXTON, NEWTOWN SQUARE A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Plane.

The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the

FOR PRIVATE APPOINTMENTS: 212.434.8050

Collection.

A SELECTION OF TIMEPIECES IS NOW AVAILABLE AT RALPHLAUREN.COM

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18K ROSE GOLD. MANUAL WINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT. 40-HOUR POWER RESERVE. SWISS MADE.

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Ralph Lauren 867 Timepiece

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RALPH LAUREN Fine Watchmaking

18K ROSE GOLD. MANUAL WINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT. 40-HOUR POWER RESERVE. SWISS MADE. NEW YORK BETTERIDGE GREENWICH

BEVERLY HILLS

DALLAS

MOYER’S FINE JEWELERS CARMEL

CHICAGO

BAL HARBOUR

BENARI JEWELERS EXTON, NEWTOWN SQUARE

FOR PRIVATE APPOINTMENTS: 212.434.8050 A SELECTION OF TIMEPIECES IS NOW AVAILABLE AT RALPHLAUREN.COM

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Ralph Lauren 867 Timepiece

Winter 2014/2015

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No. 112

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THE ELEGANT SPORTSMAN

Movado Helps Men Help Others

Editor's Outline Page 44

8 News

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Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Ambassador, Sarah Gadon

by Carol Besler

The Mural Rediscovered Thomas Hart Benton’s America Today Page 58

Previews

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The Mural Rediscovered America Today

U-BOAT Limited Edition Timepieces

by Pamela Bailey

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A CANADIAN TREASURE

38 Patek Philippe Celebrates 175 Years of Watchmaking Excellence

by Carol Besler

64 A Canadian Treasure

by Karl Zimmermann

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Page 64

Ralph Lauren The Elegant Sportsman

Rolex Montery Motorsports Reunion

by Denis L. Tanney

78 Watch Collector

48 Porsche Design Timepieces

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ROLEX MONTEREY MOTORSPORT REUNION 2014

Winter 2014/2015

Page 70 CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the December/January issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CHRONOS at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557

EDITOR'S OUTLINE To design is to originate, to invent, to innovate, to imagine, to conceive, to visualize and to envisage. Included in the concept of design is intention, purpose, aim and aspiration. In this issue of Chronos we have articles that illustrate the ability of design to become the engine of change, growth, improvement and betterment.

Building on the large 65mm diameter watch designs commissioned from his grandfather Ilvo Fontana in 1942 for Italian navy pilots and never brought to fruition, U-Boat’s deeply rooted culture of superior design is the painstaking result of 14 years of development by his grandson Ilvo Fontana. See U-Boat Timepieces on page 32.

On page 44 the Sporting Collection of Ralph Lauren is a reflection of the Ralph Lauren lifestyle message. It is inspired by the designer’s lifelong passion for classic automobiles, particularly from the 1930’s, an era known for the lavish use of exotic interior finishes on luxury performance automobiles.

Porsche Design whose very name incorporates the definition of innovation began making watches in 1972. The watches like the famous sports automobiles take their name from the Porsche family. The company has won more than 180 national and international design awards since it came on the market in 1972. See story on page 48.

A Canadian Treasure on page 64 is the story of The Canadian, a head-turning stainless steel streamliner, launched by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1955. The Canadian is a virtual time machine, an example of the modern aesthetic in design dominant in the years just before and following World War II. It is a full service train whose design provides transportation along with pleasure.

The Mural Rediscovered on page 58 , Thomas Hart Benton’s America Today is a sweeping vista of American life during the 1920’s. It is another example of how the choice of design – in this case his expressive figurative work, provides the grand sweep and political engagement of the mural.

The mural although over 80 years old reflects concerns not far removed from the present.

Illustrating the concept of design having the ability to effect change, growth, improvement and betterment is our story on page 50 Movado Helps Men Help Others. Founded in 2007 GQ’s the Gentleman’s Fund Initiative raises awareness of issues that are essential to modern men. Movado recognized five men for their contributions to today’s most essential causes. Each received a Movado watch and a donation to the charity of his choice.

For the single most prestigious, biggest, and best motorsport event, one must go to Monterey California where Rolex is responsible for an event that makes the participating drivers feel that this is their special time with their special car or cars. The story on page 70 Rolex Monterey Motorsport Reunion has become the American center for vintage racing.

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Slim d’Hermès watch in rose gold, Manufacture H1950 ultra-thin movement.

SLIM D’HERMÈS, PURITY IN MOTION.

1-800-441-4488 Hermes.com

news WILLIAMS WEARS AUDEMARS PIGUET Serena Williams has been named a friend of Audemars Piguet. Williams attended an event held by the brand at Art Basel Miami Beach recently, wearing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore she wore while playing in 2014. During her career, Serena has won 64 singles championships, 22 doubles championships and was a GoldMedalist at the 2000 (doubles), 2008 (doubles), and 2012 (singles and doubles) Olympics. Williams visited the Audemars Piguet manufacture in Switzerland recently.

Winter 2014/2015

No. 112

PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher ASSOCIATE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind WATCH & JEWELRY EDITOR Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher PHOTOGRAPHY Keiko Makishima

Audemars Piguet CEO Francois Henry Bennahmias, Serena Williams, actress Freida Pinto and CEO of Audemars Piguet North America Xavier Nolot.

AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com

CEO of Audemars Piguet North America Xavier Nolot, actor Adrian Grenier, Audemars Piguet CEO Francois Henry Bennahmias.

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CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.

Winter 2014/2015

23825

SCHAUMBURG WATCH Ice Crystal

The L.U.C Collection Each part is a masterpiece The mysteriously shaped date lever springs into action, commanding the date wheel to perform an instant 11.6129-degree jump corresponding to one day. Once its task is accomplished, it takes a 24-hour break. Like every component in the L.U.C Calibre 96.13-L, each date lever is hand-decorated and finished by the artisans at Chopard Manufacture. The L.U.C Lunar One watch bears the prestigious “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark and houses a movement that is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

L.U.C LUNAR ONE

N e w Yo r k - B a l H a r b o u r S h o p s South Coast Plaza - Las Vegas 1 . 8 0 0 . C H O PA R D E x p l o r e t h e c o l l e c t i o n a t U S . C H O PA R D . C O M

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Frisco, TX p:(214)494-4241

Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684

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news MAKING A NEW WATCH FROM AN OLD CATALOG Levinson Jewelers of Miami, Florida found a creative way to recycle its old catalogs recently at the Recycled Fashion Show, an annual event at the Young At Art Museum (YAA) in Miami. Levinson Jewelers set up a dedicated jewelrymaking station where guests could craft their own unique jewelry from old catalogs. It was a fun, creative way to emphasize how recycling is a sustainable practice that has an effect on daily life. Proceeds from the event were used to support Young At Art’s teen leadership and other pioneering programs for underserved and at-risk youth. Levinson’s recycled jewelry-making station was also set up at Art Basel Miami Beach as part of the YAA Museum.

The Levinson Jewelers recycled jewelry-making station.

Levinson Jewelers finds a creative way to recycle old catalogs.

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A new, pretend-watch, made from old catalogs from the Levinson Jewelers recycle jewelrymaking station.

©2014 movado group, inc.

Movado/Imtech mg011056a Proof 1

SEE IT. TOUCH IT. FEEL IT. WEAR IT. ONLY 250 PEOPLE WILL EXPERIENCE ONE OF THE PUREST UNIONS OF FORM MEETS FUNCTION – THE MOVADO PARLEE ™

AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH. INSPIRED BY THE ENGINEERING OF ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST ADVANCED ROAD BIKES, THIS FLUID 2014 LIMITED EDITION TIMEPIECE IS BUILT WITH 250 LAYERS OF UNIDIRECTIONAL CARBON FIBER – A MATERIAL PIONEERED AND PERFECTED BY PARLEE CYCLES. STRUCTURAL YET FLEXIBLE, THIS BREAKTHROUGH MATERIAL IS CAPTURED IN THE BEZEL AND LINKS – BECOMING AN INTEGRAL PART OF THIS MASTERFUL 46MM DESIGN THAT FEATURES A FINE SWISS MOVEMENT WITH 48-HOUR POWER RESERVE AND INDIVIDUALLY NUMBERED EXHIBITION CASE-BACK. CHOOSE FROM FOUR COLOR ACCENTS. EXPERIENCE IT AT MOVADO.COM/PARLEE AND SELECT FINE JEWELERS.

TO CELEBRATE THIS UNIQUE COLLABORATION, MOVADO IS DONATING TO WORLD BICYCLE RELIEF. LEARN MORE AT WORLDBICYCLERELIEF.ORG

news CARL F. BUCHERER GOES TO THE MOVIES Carl F. Bucherer was the official partner at the premiere of the action thriller John Wick in New York City recently. In attendance were David Leitch and Chad Stahelski, stunt action designers and filmmakers. With action-packed stunt sequences and epic fight scenes, Leitch and Stahelski have thrilled audiences in blockbusters including Sherlock Holmes, The Hunger Games, and The Bourne Legacy. John Wick stars Keanu Reeves, Willem Dafoe and Daniel Bernhardt, a Swiss actor who is a brand ambassador for Carl F. Bucherer. At the premiere, Keanu Reeves wore a Carl F. Bucherer Manero AutoDate with a light dial. Willem Dafoe wore a Manero AutoDate in classic black, and Daniel Bernhardt wore a Patravi ChronoGrade.

The Carl F. Bucherer AutoDate was worn by actor Keanu Reeves.

Keanu Reeves at the premiere of John Wick.

The Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ChronoGrade was worn by actor Daniel Bernhardt.

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Filmmakers Chad Stahelski and David Leitch, friends of Carl F. Bucherer.

news CITIZEN SPONSORS FIGURE SKATING Citizen Watch is sponsoring the International Skating Union (ISU) this year, beginning with the competition in Barcelona, Spain. This year’s Grand Prix will host winners from the preliminary rounds held in the U.S., Canada, China, France, Russia and Japan. As one of the official sponsors for this year’s finals, Citizen remains the longest running sponsor for the ISU, having continuously supported the international competition since 1982.

Citizen Watch is the sponsor of the International Skating Union.

LOUIS VUITTON CONSOLIDATES WATCHMAKING Louis Vuitton recently inaugurated a new facility in Meyrin, near Geneva, Switzerland, that consolidates all its watchmaking activities under one roof. The manufacture incorporates Louis Vuitton’s product development center, previously located in La Chaux-de-Fonds. It also houses the high-end movements unit under the name La Fabriques du Temps, as well as the watch dial manufacturer Léman Cadran. Louis Vuitton entered the watch segment in 2002 with the launch of its iconic Tambour timepiece. The new facility includes 4,000 square meters of workshops, bathed in light.

The new Louis Vuitton manufacture near Geneva, Switzerland.

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Winter 2014/2015

Chro

THE WHOLE WORLD TO THE NEAREST MINUTE.

Duomètre Unique Travel Time. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383.

Paris, New York, Tokyo, New Delhi… Swiss precision around the globe. The Duomètre Unique Travel Time is the world-time watch offering dual-time adjustment to the nearest minute. A feat made possible by the patented Dual-Wing movement. With 180 skills united under one roof, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre consistently contributes to driving advances in the field of Fine Watchmaking.

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YOU DE S E RvE A R E A L WATC H.

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CITIZEN WATCH OPENS NYC FLAGSHIP

At the ribbon-cutting ceremony for the opening of Citizen Watch’s flagship store in New York City were, from left to right: Ellen Seckler, Citizen’s vicepresident of marketing; a Little Kids Rock student; Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch Company of America; Citizen brand ambassador Kelly Clarkson; Ryoto Aoyagi, executive vice-president of Citizen Watch Company of America; a Little Kids Rock student; and Robin Kurkhill, Citizen’s vicepresident of retail.

Citizen Watch Company has opened a new global flagship boutique at 1500 Broadway in Times Square, New York City. The store is over 1,300 square feet, and showcases the brand’s full range of products, including watches with EcoDrive Satellite Wave technology, the Promaster Series of sports watches and the new collection of women’s watches.

It is the first Citizen Watch global retail concept store in North America.

By opening a flagship store at the epicenter of one of the world’s most prominent destinations, Citizen says it will maximize the brand’s visibility with exposure to the over 39 million tourists, travelers, commuters and local New Yorkers that walk through Times Square each year. The store is designed to appeal to amateur and serious watch enthusiasts alike. It will serve as a world-class showcase for the Citizen Watch brand with state-of-the-art interactive and hands-on displays and exclusive offerings.

Citizen Watch’s new flagship store at Times Square in New York City.

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Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch Company of America comments, “We couldn’t be more pleased with the exceptional opportunity this new global flagship store provides us to communicate directly with our consumers, to share our vision of the brand and get real-time feedback.”

Citizen will showcase the newly released Satellite Wave F100, the world’s thinnest and fastest light-powered satellite timekeeping watch, as well as limited edition models and international models from Japan that are not normally sold in the U.S. Multiple 360-degree showcases allow for shopping from either side, and provide easy movement throughout the store. Interactive display monitors and a co-authorship wall featuring prominent bloggers’ interpretations of Citizen watches will take the consumer experience to a new level. Visitors can sign the “Citizens of the World” guest book, and create their own digital passport to share with friends. Call-outs on Citizen’s social media will be found on monitors throughout the store as well as the dynamic LED canopy on the store front, which will be visible from Broadway and 43rd Street.

Citizen takes pride in its eco-friendly technology, including the Eco-Drive timepiece, which is powered by any type of light and never needs a battery. In this spirit of concern for the environment, Citizen has incorporated Shou Sugi Ban (Japanese cedar) elements throughout the store. This type of wood is preserved in a process that involves charring, cooling and cleaning it, and then finishing it with natural oil.

It is fire retardant and can last up to 80 years without the use of toxic chemicals. The fabric-draped layered ceiling is reminiscent of a Japanese silk lantern.

It pays homage to the brand’s Japanese heritage and serves as an artistic representation of its proprietary Eco-Drive technology.

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previews MANUFACTURE ROYALE This flying tourbillon is named 1770 after the year Manufacture Royale was founded. The manual wound Caliber MR03 features a pallet fork and escape wheel made of silicon. Thanks to its resistance to variations in temperature and to magnetic fields, among its other qualities, silicon makes an important contribution to the movement's performance. In addition to hours and minutes, the 1770 incorporates a power-reserve indicator. The plate and bridges are hand decorated and the slate dial is open-worked. The case is stainless steel.

Manufacture Royale 310-402-1530 www.manufacture-royale.com

OFFICINE PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 8 DAYS GMT ORO ROSSO The Panerai PAM576 features an 18k polished red gold case with a sapphire crystal display back. It features a brown dial with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers, and an alligator strap with an 18k red gold buckle. The watch contains Officine Panerai’s P.2002 movement, a hand-wound caliber with a power reserve of 8 days, displayed on the dial by a linear indicator. The GMT function, with 24-hour indication, enables the wearer to track a second time zone.

Officine Panerai 877-PANERAI www.panerai.com

IWC PORTOFINO MIDSIZE This 37mm size is new for the Portofino, and although IWC doesn’t specifically identify it as a ladies’ watch, it is the perfect size for women. The elegant Day/Night version incorporates a blue and white aesthetic, with a highly practical demarcation of the second time zone. The watch is set with diamonds, and it contains the self-winding caliber 35700, with a 42-hour power reserve. It features a central hacking seconds.

IWC Schaffhausen 800-432-9330 www.iwc.com

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previews MOVADO MUSEUM WRAP The latest model in Movado’s contemporary classic Museum series is the streamlined Museum Wrap. The name refers to the wraparound bangle style of the bracelet, which hugs the wrist like a piece of jewelry. Both the 20mm case and the wraparound bangle bracelet are made of stainless steel with a yellow gold PVD finish. The gold toned soleil dial is minimalist in style, with no numerals, and features the brand’s signature Museum dot at 12 o’clock. It contains a Swiss made quartz movement.

Movado 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com

ULYSSE NARDIN LADY DIVER The Lady Diver is a professional diving watch, water resistant to 100 meters, that has been designed to appeal to women as well as men.

The 18k gold case is 40mm wide, and set with 54 diamonds totaling 0.685 carat. It contains the Ulysse Nardin made self-winding Caliber UN-815, with functions that include hours, minutes, seconds and a date indicator at the 6 o’clock position. The wave pattern on the dial is carried over onto the rubber strap.

Ulysse Nardin 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com

SHINOLA RUNWELL The Runwell Chronograph from Shinola is entirely hand assembled in Detroit. It is characterized by its round steel case – this one 47mm wide, and its retro spirit. The black dial features highly readable oversized numerals, and orange hands and accents. In partnership with Ronda AG, the Swiss quartz movement manufacturer, Shinola also makes the mechanical movements in Detroit. The leather straps are produced by the Shinola Leather Co. in Detroit and Hadley-Roma in Largo, Florida, from American leather.

Shinola 844-744-6652 www.shinola.com 20

Winter 2014/2015

AZ_Cla

www.porsche.com/classic

What’s your favorite: original, or cover band?

Porsche Classic Genuine Parts.

Over 70 % of all Porsche vehicles ever built are still on the road today. We make sure it stays that way, with quality ‘Made in Germany’ – and over 52,000 Porsche Classic Genuine Parts. You’ll find Porsche Classic Genuine Parts available for order from your authorized Porsche dealer. A limited selection will also be available for order soon from the Porsche Classic Online Shop www.porscheusa.com/classic-shop ®

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previews NOMOS GLASHÜTTE LAMBDA DEEP BLUE This watch is named for its striking blue lacquered dial, which is contrasted by white markings, including rhodium plated hands and a power reserve indicator that sweeps at a generous 297 degree arc.

The 42mm case is made of 18k white gold. The movement, manual wound Caliber DUW 1001 was made by NOMOS and has an 84 hour power reserve. The DUW stands for NOMOS Glashütte Deutsche Uhrenwerke. The strap is Horween shell cordovan, with an 18k gold buckle clasp.

NOMOS Glashütte +49 30695 0848 www.nomos-glashuette.com

BREITLING CHRONOSPACE MILITARY This is a multifunction pilot’s chronograph, with a stainless steel case that has been treated with a black carbon finish. It features a bi-directional rotating bezel with a compass scale and a rugged military-type fabric strap. It is powered by a SuperQuartz chronograph caliber that is chronometer certified. Luminescent numerals, hand and hour markers ensure high legibility. Functions include 1/100th of a second split-second chronograph, alarm, countdown timer and dual time zone.

Breitling USA 877-BREITLING www.Breitling.com

EBEL WAVE The latest version of Ebel’s new classic features a stainless steel case set with 58 diamonds, and a stainless steel bracelet, featuring the model’s classic, wave-shaped links. The dial is white mother-of-pearl with the Ebel symbol at 12 o’clock and diamond hour markers. It contains a Swiss made quartz movement, Caliber Ronda 773. The watch is water resistant to 50 meters.

Ebel 800-920-3153 www.ebel.com

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previews A. LANGE & SÖHNE LANGE 1 TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST This special edition Lange 1 celebrates A. Lange & Söhne’s 20th anniversary with 20 individually numbered pieces. The black enameled dial is contrasted by hands made of rhodium-plated white gold and white numerals. The balance cock is finished with a specular polishing technique, while the opening for the tourbillon features meticulously polished chamfered edges. It contains the manual wound Caliber L961.3 movement, with a balance that can be precision adjusted in five positions.

A. Lange & Söhne 800-408-8147 www.alange-soehne.com

BELL & ROSS BR-X1 SKELETON CHRONOGRAPH The BR-X1 is a high-tech chronograph, a tribute to the Bell X-1, the first American experimental rocket plane to break the sound barrier, in 1947.

It features a band made of ceramic and rubber to act as a defensive shield.

The case is ceramic and titanium, and the chronograph pushers are also made of high-tech ceramic, with ergonomically designed rubber inserts.

The automatic movement is open-worked. It is water resistant to 100 meters. It is a limited edition of 250 pieces.

Bell & Ross 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com

CITIZEN SATELLITE WAVE F100 The Eco-Drive Satellite Wave is a light-powered satellite watch, with a titanium case and bracelet, a black dial and a titanium bezel with DLC coating. It has the world’s fastest signal, with three-second synch reception speed and a satellite timekeeping system for 40 time zones (27 cities). The watch is also a perpetual calendar, with day/date functions. It contains the Eco-Drive F100 Caliber movement.

CITIZEN 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com

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Contact Luxury Products International: TEL.: 347-329-2971 e: info@luxuryproductsinternational.com Facebook: Luxury Products International

www.luxuryproductsinternational.com

previews CARTIER CRASH SKELETON The Cartier Crash, which contains the new manual wound Caliber MC 9618, is one of Cartier’s series of shaped watches that also includes the Tortue and the Baignoire. This is the first in a new series that will showcase a unique variation on one of these shaped watches, involving a new caliber each time. The sapphire crystal is curved on two axes, and the bridges are cut in the shape of Roman numerals, a skeletonization technique for which Cartier holds a patent. The case is platinum.

Cartier 800-227-8437 www.cartier.com

LONGINES CONQUEST 1/100TH HORSE RACING This watch measures multiple intermediary times and has an intuitive analogue display that shows the time to one hundredth of a second.

It contains a quartz Caliber L440 made by ETA. The 41mm case is stainless steel and the silver dial displays hours, minutes, small seconds, date and chronograph functions. The red hand displays time to one hundredths of a second.

Longines Swatch Group USA 800-897-9477 www.longines.com

PIAGET ALTIPLANO CHRONOGRAPH This ultra-thin handwound chronograph is the world’s thinnest handwound flyback chronograph. The movement is 4.65mm thick and the watch in its case is 8.24mm thick. It contains the hand wound flyback chronograph caliber 883P, with a 50-hour power reserve. It features a second time zone at 9 o’clock. There are two versions, one in 18k pink gold and the other in 18k white gold with 56 diamonds set into the bezel, totaling 1.8 carats.

Piaget 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com

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previews JAQUET DROZ PETITE HEURE MINUTE GOATS According to Chinese astrology, 2015 is the year of the Goat, and Jaquet Droz has created two special edition timepieces to commemorate the animal, a symbol of imagination and creativity. The goats are depicted in three-dimensional relief and include bamboo, chrysanthemums, orchids and plum blossoms, all noble

flowers of Chinese iconography.

The dials were created using champlevĂŠ enameling. The metal is hollowed out and the hollows are filled with enamel, then fired and hand polished. One of the models has been created in 18k white gold and blue enamel, and is set with 296 diamonds totaling 1.20

carats. The other is crafted in 18k red gold, with enamel in a wine burgundy color. Each version is limited to 28 pieces. Each contains a self-winding movement, the Jaquet Droz Caliber 2653, with a double barrel for a 68hour power reserve. Functions include off-centered hours and minutes.

Jaquet Droz Swatch Group USA 888-866-0059 www.jaquet-droz.com

The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Goat in 18k white gold.

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The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Goat in 18k red gold.

Winter 2014/2015

Chronos

Ref. 3759-02, $295

See you at JCK, Watch Works Booth 2504 Boccia Titanium mens chronograph watch with black dial, rose gold markers, rose gold and black ceramic twotone case and black leather strap. Date Feature. Luminescent Dial. Sapphire crystal, Water-Resistant to 330 ft.

42mm Diameter. Japanese Quartz Movement.

This watch and 300 others for men and women priced from $65 - $295 are ready to ship.

For more information, please visit boccia.com, email sherri@boccia.com or call 800-360-2586

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previews JAEGER-LeCOULTRE MOON PHASES Jaeger-LeCoultre is looking to the night sky for inspiration this year. New for men is the Duometre Spherotourbillon Moon (Caliber 389). The impressive feature here, aside from the doubleaxis tourbillon with its cylindrical hairspring, is the ultra-accurate moon phase. A traditional moon phase complication shows a discrepancy of one day every two-and-a-half years, when the movement must be adjusted

by a watchmaker. A more complicated perpetual calendar typically needs adjustment once every 122 years. The Spherotourbillon Moon will not need adjustment for 3,887 years. The case is platinum, and it contains JaegerLeCoultre Caliber 389, with a 45-hour power reserve.

Equally impressive is the new ladies’ moon phase, the Rendez-Vous Moon (Caliber 935) with a moon phase

accurate to within one day every 972 years. The dial, case, bezel and lugs are set with diamonds. The moon disk is made of mother-of-pearl. The movement is automatic Caliber 935, with a 43-hour power reserve. There are two sizes: a 36mm set with 166 diamonds totaling 1.46 carats; and a 39mm set with 208 diamonds totaling 2.86 carats.

Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre SphĂŠrotourbillon Moon.

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Moon.

The Art of Swiss Watchmaking

SKELETON COLLECTION 17 Jewel Swiss Unitas MVT | Rose/Gray/Rhodium Movement Sapphire Crystal | Highly Decorated Front & Back | 165 Feet WR.

$1,375 MSRP

Handcrafted, Limited Edition Timepieces Designs Built on Past Inspiration

by Pamela Bailey

U-Boat’s 7177 Carbonio watch features a bezel ring in forged carbon for superior strength and lighter weight, is water resistant and forms one of only 199 such limited edition timepieces.

W

ithin the rarified atmosphere of the world’s truly luxurious brands, many claim to bestow prestige, personality and a unique sense of belonging. And then there are those rare creatures – brands which ooze sophistication, craftsmanship

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and innovation. Whose bold, timeless designs and striking good looks act like a siren call, seizing our attention and drawing us in for a closer look.

Italy’s stunning U-Boat Chimera timepieces are a perfect example of this caliber

of prestigious brand with their effortless creativity and individuality. Often a mere 300 pieces of each hand-crafted, retro-inspired design are created, such that U-Boat’s Classico, Flightdeck and Thousands of Feet collections have found favor

The 7541 combines U-Boat’s myriad high performance features with style and practicality to produce a stunning design that is water resistant to 1001 metres, 100 ATM.

with international celebrities including rapper R Kelly, global style-setters David and Victoria Beckham, supermodel Bar Refaeli and legendary soul musician Brian McKnight. Hollywood A-listers Tom Cruise, Nicholas Cage, Lynsey Lohan, Sylvester Stallone

and Arnold Schwarzenegger are also firm fans.

U-Boat’s deeply-rooted culture of superior design, optimum quality and consistent innovation is the result of 14 years of painstaking development by the company’s founder and designer

Italo Fontana, building on the large 65mm diameter watch designs commissioned in 1942 from his grandfather Ilvo for Italian Navy pilots, though never brought to fruition. On discovering the blueprints in 2000, his grandson Italo decided to inject his own Winter 2014/2015

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U-Boat has created only 88 of its spectacular 7229 Chimera 43 design, which sparkles with 282 black diamonds hand-set on the bezel of the case, case tube screws and lugs.

The limited edition 7534 Chimera Day Date is elegance and style personified, from its two superimposed black dials and laser-cut bâton hands to its curved fumé sapphire glass, patented steel crown release system and hypoallergenic, handmade alligator strap with tungsten steel buckle.

seemingly boundless creativity to move forward those original designs to create a limited edition range of the world’s finest large watches. Of that initial range of 29 pieces, Arnold Schwarzenegger quickly recognized their cachet and now owns six U-Boats. Sylvester Stallone, whose collection includes four timepieces, flew to meet Italo in his private jet before commissioning a one-off, bespoke 34

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design.

Italo Fontana grew up in the medieval town of Lucca, steeped in its proud craft traditions and generations of talented artisans.

Inspired by vintage style and quality, he pays no heed to fashion or material constraints and instead consistently pushes materials to realize his creative vision.

His many innovations include black sapphire crystals, patented

crown release system, and carefully drilling small crevices in sterling silver watch cases before inserting black and brown diamonds to dramatic effect. These beautiful watches are so distinctive that they’re impossible to miss, even from a significant distance.

Italo Fontana is also a talented and fiercely-competitive yachtsman, pilot, race car driver and deep sea diver whose motto

U-Boat’s founder and lead designer Italo Fontano is a talented yachtsman, pilot, race car driver and deep sea diver.

is “A New Dimension in Time", and his energy, innovation and commitment to excellence pervade every aspect of the U-Boat culture. He even designs each new timepiece using custommade U-Boat pens in titanium and bronze, and there is now a mouthwateringly sleek and chic black U-Boat motorcycle.

Once experienced, a U-Boat design is never forgotten.

Trademark features include the company’s iconic left-hand crown and crown guard, and a patented, sculpted pusher to eject the inner crown for easy adjustment of date and time. Components including interior Swiss ETA movements and Valjoux 7750 chronographs come as standard. Respected New York-based luxury brand specialists Kenro Industries are

The Flightdeck 925 Elementium has been inspired by the altimeters used by aviators in the 1920s, and more specifically by U-Boat’s founder Italo Fontana’s visit to an aircraft carrier where he noticed the similarity between instrumentation used on the ship’s control deck with those installed on fighter aircraft.

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U-Boat’s 8088 U-42 Unicum showcases beautifully the superb design, quality and artisan craftsmanship that permeates the company’s very core.

U-Boat’s 7433 Classico Tungsteno timepiece comes in a choice of beige or black dial with matching beige or black hands, large Arabic numbers and markers treated with superluminova.

closely involved in heightening awareness of this premium Italian brand among discerning US audiences.

The Chimera U-51 “B & B” (Black and Bronze) featured on our cover pairs custom-aged bronze with black IPB stainless steel.

Bronze elements are treated with carefully-selected acids, retaining a natural patina for maximum vintage appeal. Hands have been 36

first painted, then discolored and finally scratched by hand, while Chimera U-51’s hand-stitched Tuscan leather watchstraps have been gently distressed for similar aged appeal. Each minute detail combines to raise U-Boat timepieces into a style and quality class of their own.

And word is quickly spreading beyond the glitterati, with discerning buyers enthusiastically

descending upon U-Boat’s 19 retail locations worldwide, which include the company’s flagship store on Florence’s famed Ponte Vecchio as well as fashionable boulevards in Moscow, Hong Kong, Singapore, Beijing, Beirut and Cannes.

Winter 2014/2015

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A new series of collectors’ timepieces from the world’s most collectible brand

Patek Philippe Ref. 4675 Multi-scale Chronograph for ladies, in 18k rose gold

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PATEK PHILIPPE CELEBRATES

175 YEARS

of

WATCHMAKING EXCELLENCE

by Carol Besler

W

hen Patek Philippe celebrates its 175th anniversary, the watch world takes notice. This is the watch company that many consider to be the cream of the crop in the watch world, and auction records bear this out. Patek Philippe timepieces hold several records, including the most expensive watch ever sold at auction: the Henry Graves Supercomplication sold for $24-million at a Sotheby’s auction

in Geneva last November.

Patek Philippe introduced several new timepieces to commemorate its anniversary, all of which have the potential to become collectors’ items. In the last issue of Chronos, we looked at one of these, the impressive Grandmaster Chime. It was one of six new timepieces launched to honor the elite watchmaker’s roots, and we bring you an inside look at the other five here.

It is worth noting that two of these commemorative watches are designed specifically for ladies, a sign that Patek Philippe is continuing to bet on the collector’s market for women’s complicated watches.

The five new watches include a Chiming Jump Hour, a World Time Moon in both a ladies’ and men’s version, and a Multi-scale Chronograph for both ladies and men.

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Patek Phlippe Ref. 5975 Multi-scale Chronograph for men, with telemeter, tachymeter and pulsimeter

The Chiming Jump Hour Ref. 5275 was inspired by another Patek Philippe special edition, this one launched in 1989 on the occasion of its 150th anniversary: the Ref. 3969, a jumping digital hour. The beauty and innovation of the new Chiming Jump Hour is that it chimes the hour – a first in a wristwatch. The watch is in fact a triple jump indicator, with a traditional jump hour at 12 o’clock, and unconventional minute and seconds indicators with 40

Winter 2014/2015

hands that jump from one marker to the next. At the top of each hour, all three indications jump at once. At the same time, a chime indicates the arrival of each new hour. The watch contains the manually wound Caliber 32-650 HGS PS, with 438 components. Patek holds three patents on the watch relating to its ability to store energy for the synchronized jumps and chime. There is an equal amount of craft evident on the outside of the watch. The tonneau

shaped platinum case is decorated with engravings of floral motifs. The 18k gold dial is embossed with a floral motif. It will be made in an edition of 175 pieces.

The Multi-scale Chronograph Ref. 5975 for men and Ref. 4675 for women are were also introduced to commemorate Patek Philippe’s 175th Anniversary. The Multi-Scale Chronograph is not a conventional chronograph that traditionally measures 60-second inter-

Patek Philippe Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour with a chiming hour function

vals and totalizes them in minutes and hours. Instead, it uses the chronograph seconds function to calculate speed, distance, and heartbeats per minute. In other words, it has a tachymeter, a telemeter and a pulsimeter. This watch can take your pulse (pulsimeter), tell you how long it will take you to drive a certain distance if you maintain a certain speed (tachymeter), and how far away you are from the flash of lightning you just observed in the sky (telemeter).

There are both ladies’ and men’s versions of this watch, both with the same caliber, 28-520, a self-winding chronograph with column wheel and vertical clutch, adjustable Spiromax balance spring and a Gyromax balance. The power reserve is 55 hours and the accuracy is a remarkable +2 seconds per day variance. The ladies’ case is smaller than the men’s – 37mm compared to 40mm, and the indexes are arranged in a different order. The hour markers on

the men’s model are gold markers, and on the ladies model the markers are baguette diamonds.

The last two anniversary watches are the World Time Moon Refs. 5575 and 7175. As with the Multi-Scale Chronograph, there is a ladies’ edition as well as a men’s, underlining Patek Philippe’s recognition that the female collectors’ market is important. Aesthetically, the impressive thing about these models is the large-scale depiction of the moon Winter 2014/2015

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Patek Philippe Ref. 5575 World Time Moon for men

Patek Philippe Ref. 7175 World Time Moon for ladies

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Winter 2014/2015

PATEK PHILIPPE CELEBRATES

175 YEARS

of

WATCHMAKING EXCELLENCE

Patek Philippe Ref. 7175 World Time Moon for ladies

phase display. The moon is composed of two thin, superimposed glass disks that work together to expose the phases of the moon. This is the first time the full center of the dial of a Patek Philippe World Timepiece has been dominated by a full moon phase display. Normally, there is either a guilloché center or a polychrome cloisonné enamel center on a Patek Philippe World Timer.

Both ladies’ and men’s versions contain the newly developed Caliber 240 HU LU, based on an ultra-thin selfwinding movement powered by a 22k

Patek Philippe Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour

gold micro-rotor that is recessed into the plate. This keeps the watch slim, at 9.5mm for the men’s and 9.36 for the ladies’ piece. The Calatrava-style case is 18k white gold for the men’s version (39.8mm) and 18k rose gold for the ladies’ piece (38mm). The bezel on the ladies’ version is set with 70 flawless Top Wesselton (G color) diamonds totaling just under a carat. The world time function features Patek’s optimized time zone mechanism, patented in 1999, which allows all adjustments to be performed with a single pusher at

10 o’clock on the case side. As a tribute to Patek Philippe’s heritage, Central European Time is represented by the city of Geneva instead of Paris on the world city ring.

All of these timepieces are being made in limited editions of anywhere from 100 to 1,300, which makes them rare and therefore even more collectible. They are priced between about $46,000 and $310,000.

Winter 2014/2015

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THE ELEGANT SPORTSMAN

The Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph was inspired by Ralph Lauren’s 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe.

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R

alph Lauren has enhanced its Sporting collection with a new model, the Automotive Chronograph.

The brand has also updated a favorite classic in the Sporting collection, the Classic Chronometer, by offering a new size.

The new Automotive Chronograph was introduced in January at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva. It was inspired by the designer’s lifelong passion for classic automobiles, particularly from the 1930s, an era known for the lavish use of exotic interior finishes on luxury performance automobiles. The Automotive Chronograph in particular takes its design cues from the elegant instrument panel of Ralph Lauren’s own 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe.

The Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph was inspired by classic automobiles from the 1930s.

The timepiece echoes the graceful yet powerful lines of the legendary car’s body, with curved case horns and chronograph pushers. In fact, it recalls the first generation of gentlemen’s sports chronographs of the 1930s. The movement is the self-winding chronograph Caliber RL751A/1, made by Jaeger-LeCoultre exclusively for Ralph Lauren. It has 39 jewels, beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph, and boasts a 65hour power reserve. It is decorated with perlage and Côtes de Genève finishes in an arrangement that is unique to Ralph Lauren calibers. Aside from chronograph functions, it has a useful small seconds counter at 6 o’clock.

The dial treatment of inlaid wood is one that has been used before on timepieces in the Ralph Lauren Sporting

collection, and has become a signature of the brand. It was designed to replicate the inlaid exotic wood element on classic automobile dashboards with inlays made from individually selected pieces of elm burl wood. Each piece of wood is selected for its specific concentration of knots and grains, and no two are alike. The wood surrounds a matte galvanic center.

The stainless steel case is 44.80mm in diameter and 12.20 mm thick, with a bezel that features a tachymeter scale.

The sapphire crystal over the dial is convex in shape, with an anti-reflective treatment. The watch is water resistant to 50 meters.

One of the most popular timepieces in the Ralph Lauren Sporting collection is the Classic Chronometer, which Winter 2014/2015

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The Ralph Lauren Automotive Chronograph, from the Sporting collection.

The Classic Chronometer, from the Ralph Lauren Sporting collection, is now available in a 39mm size.

has been reintroduced in a smaller, 39mm case size – the original had a 45mm case. It contains the self-winding Caliber RL366 movement which is COSC-certified. Like the Caliber RL751A/1, it is decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage finishing in a pattern that is distinctive to Ralph Lauren.

The dial’s classic elements remain the same: Roman numerals, Breguet-style hands and railroad-track indexes on 46

the central dial and subdial. The case is stainless steel and the strap is black alligator with a black leather lining.

The Sporting collection is a reflection of the Ralph Lauren lifestyle message, including the spirit of sportsmanship and the sense of old-world adventure associated with African safaris and classic car rallies.

Winter 2014/2015

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PORSCHE DESIGN Since 1972, Porsche Design timepieces have revolutionized watch design. Two new models commemorate the company’s new manufacture in Switzerland

P

orsche Design, which began making watches in 1972, has turned a new corner. The awardwinning design house has opened a new facility in Solothurn Switzerland, where it will now make watches.

It begins by launching a limited edition watch collection this year to commemorate the new manufacture.

The watches, like the famous sports automobiles, take their name from the Porsche family, particularly Ferdinand Alexander, whose best known product was the first Porsche 911. He founded Porsche Design in 1972, a company which has won more than 180 national and international design awards since then.

Porsche Design’s first watch, the Chronograph I, was considered revolutionary when it hit the market in 1972. It was a black PVD coated watch at a time when most watches were still gold or steel. The watch proved to be ahead of its time; today, the black PVD watch is one of the strongest trends in the watch industry, particularly among sports watches. The Chronograph I was reminiscent of the non-reflective instruments found in racing cars, in which everything but the numbers and the hands are matte black. It had a black dial with white lettering and luminous white hands and dials. The only colored feature was the large second hand in red, to ensure perfect readability. In 1980, Porsche Design revolutionized the watchmaking world again when it introduced the first timepiece made of titanium.

The new Porsche Design Timepiece No. 1 and Chronograph Titanium Limited Edition take their design cues from these original watches, with a focus on optimal readability, durable materials and high functionality. Both are automatic chronographs, contain-

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Winter 2014/2015

Porsche Design Timepiece No. 1 follows the design principles of the original Chronograph I, with highly readable white markings on a black dial and a red chronograph seconds hand.

Porsche Design Timepiece No. 1 is coated with a special matte black finish that makes it highly durable.

The energy optimized rotor on the automatic movement of Timepiece No. 1 is made

by Porsche Design.

The Porsche Design Titanium Chronograph has a 42mm case made of titanium. It contains the automatic Caliber ETA 7750.

ing the renowned ETA Caliber 7750 movement (the same movement used in the original Porsche Design watches), and both have 42mm cases. The black case of Timepiece No. 1 is coated using a special procedure to make the matte black finish even more durable. The blackened sapphire crystal case back that shows the inner workings of movement, including the exclusive, energy-optimized Porsche Design rotor. Timepiece No. 1 has a black rubber strap and the Chronograph Titanium Limited Edition has a black calf skin leather strap. Both are water resistant to 50 meters, and are limited to 500 pieces each.

Ferdinand Alexander Porsche headed Porsche Design until his retirement in 2003. He passed away in 2012, but his design principles live forever in the legacy of the Porsche Design timepiece. Today, Porsche Design makes several other luxury products according to the same principles, including fashion clothing, handbags, luggage, men’s shoes, sunglasses and writing instruments. Every product begins with a consideration of its intended function, and is characterized by clean lines, purity, elegance and an innovative idea.

The Porsche Design Titanium Chronograph is fitted with a calf skin leather strap.

The hands and bar indexes on the Titanium Chronograph are filled with white luminescent material so that the large dial is as clear as possible at all times.

Winter 2014/2015

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HELPS MEN HELP OTHERS The Movado sponsored GQ Gentlemen’s Ball in New York City supports charities that support causes in America and beyond

The Gentlemen’s Fund Ball, October 22, 2014 50

Winter 2014/2015

The Movado Museum Sport,™ in stainless steel, with black PVD finish and a Swiss quartz movement

M

ovado sponsored The Gentlemen’s Fund Seventh Annual Gentlemen’s Ball in New York City in October for the fifth consecutive year. Founded in 2007, GQ's The Gentlemen’s Fund initiative raises awareness for issues that are essential to modern men, and encourages men to become agents of change by supporting charities that champion these causes.

The evening’s Leader Awards, presented by Movado, recognized five gentlemen for their contributions to today’s most essential causes. Included were: social entrepreneur Sean D. Carasso,

founder of Falling Whistles, an organization that sells whistles to raise money for education, advocacy and the rehabilitation of war-affected people in the Congo; F.K. Day, co-founder and president of World Bicycle Relief, which distributes bicycles to help mobilize people across rural Africa to support community health care, education and local economies; Nick Ehrmann, founder and CEO of Blue Engine, an organization dedicated to improving the odds of college completion for students from lowincome families; Stephen Powell, executive director of MentoringUSA, whose passion for mentoring has expanded

technical assistance efforts across the nation; and Barrett Ward, founder and CEO of fashionABLE, a company that creates sustainable business opportunities in Africa, with a focus on womenrun businesses.

These five exceptional men were selected by GQ's advisory panel, comprised of leading personalities in the fields of media and philanthropy: Jenna Bush Hager, contributing correspondent for NBC’s TODAY and chair of UNICEF Next Generation; Scott Harrison, founder and CEO of charity: water; Blake Mycoskie, founder and chief shoe giver at TOMS, a company Winter 2014/2015

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HELPS MEN HELP OTHERS

Actor Andrew Garfield

that donates shoes to impoverished children; Paul Rieckhoff, founder and CEO of Iraq and Afghanistan Veterans of America; and Darnell Strom, executive of CAA Foundation, the philanthropic arm of the Creative Artists Agency in Beverly Hills.

The Leader Award winners attended as guests of Movado. Each received a Movado watch and a donation to the 52

Winter 2014/2015

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Actor Taylor Kitsch

charity of his choice. GQ advisory panel members and celebrity ambassadors also received Movado timepieces.

Movado and GQ welcomed several high-profile guests to the event who came to show their support, including acclaimed jazz musician and Movado brand ambassador Wynton Marsalis, as well as actors Terry Crews and David Zayas, and model Alex Minsky.

A brand long identified with Modernism and closely associated with the fine and performing arts, Movado was founded in Switzerland in 1881. The parent company, Movado Group, Inc. designs, manufactures, and distributes Movado, Ebel, Concord, ESQ Movado, Coach, Hugo Boss, Lacoste, Juicy Couture, Tommy Hilfiger and the Scuderia Ferrari brand watches worldwide.

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A Plus for Our Chronos Readers If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces. As a bonus for our CHRONOS readers we are including a subscription to ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL, A Lifestyle Magazine featuring artistic achievement and design, past and present in the world of jewelry, art, design, travel, gardens and beauty wherever it is found.

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Winter 2014/2015

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SARAH GADON’S RENDEZ-VOUS WITH TIME

by Carol Besler

Jaeger-LeCoultre Friend of the Brand Sarah Gadon wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day.

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s a sponsor of the Venice International Film Festival and the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF), among others, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed a strong affinity for the film world.

That connection has influenced its choice of ambassadors, and

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Winter 2014/2015

one of them, actress Sarah Gadon, proves it is not a superficial relationship. Gadon, a star of the film “Dracula Untold,” visited the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux last fall to get a first hand look at how the brand makes watches.

What impressed her most were the craftsmen. “I was inspired by the passion of each person who works at the manufacture,” she says. “Making a watch is an art form all unto itself, and the people who create these timepieces are deeply invested in their work. I

The Jaeger-LeCoultre ambassador talks about time, life and the beauty of a mechanical timepiece

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Montre Extraordinaire La Rose, with 14 carats of diamonds.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Date, with diamonds on the bezel and a guilloché dial.

was moved by their passion for their craft; it’s something I can relate to.”

She was also dazzled by the enameling process on watch dials.

“Each watch becomes a tiny piece of art that you carry with you every day,” marvels Gadon, who

also learned about the complex inner workings of a mechanical timepiece. “Each component of every watch is made at the manufacture. This means that an entire timepiece from start to finish is created under one roof,” she says.

Gadon has had a busy year, touring Europe and North America with the theatrical release of “Dracula Untold”. She attended the Cannes International Film Festival and the Toronto International Film Festival. She appeared in “The Girl King,” the Winter 2014/2015

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Actress Sarah Gadon at the Whistler Film Festival, wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous.

story of Queen Kristina of Sweden, and starred in “Girls Night Out,” as the young Princess Elizabeth, as well as “The Night Life of Louis Drax,” a supernatural thriller based on Liz Jensen’s best-selling novel.

“When I arrived at the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture in Switzerland, they were flying the Canadian flag in front of the building,” says Gadon, who is Canadian. “After being away from home for months, I found 56

Winter 2014/2015

this gesture touching. It’s this kind of attention to detail and level of thoughtfulness that makes Jaeger-LeCoultre renowned for its tradition of high quality luxury.”

Time is important to Gadon.

“Finding enough time to spend with my family and friends has become paramount,” she says. “I think about the time required to get from one place to another, the time to read a new script, the time it takes to learn a new role. “It’s

always a balancing act.”

In her travels and public appearances, Gadon is frequently seen wearing watches from the Rendez-Vous collection. “ I have more than one watch from that collection,” she says. “I wear the Rendez-Vous Date in stainless steel the most often. It’s also the watch that people notice the most. Almost every time I wear it, someone stops me to tell me how much they love it. I think it has

SARAH GADON’S RENDEZ-VOUS WITH TIME

Sarah Gadon in New York City, wearing a Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece.

a special balance between a classic timepiece and a feminine piece of jewelry.” Her dream watch is one of the high jewelry masterpieces in the Jaeger-LeCoultre current collection. “If I could own any watch, I would choose the Montre Extraordinaire La Rose,” she says.

“I had the opportunity to wear it at the Venice Film Festival two years ago, and I was dazzled by its craftsmanship and of course,

by its diamonds.” The Montre Extraordinaire La Rose is set with 14 carats of diamonds in a case shaped as the overlapping petals of a rose.

When asked what is the best advice she has ever been given on life, Gadon replies: “I was a TIFF Rising star in 2011 [a program sponsored by Jaeger-LeCoultre] and as part of that program we spoke intimately with director

Norman Jewison. He told us it was important not to put our personal lives on hold while we are working.

He advised us not to live out of a hotel, to cook our own dinner and do our own laundry when we’re on location shooting. It sounds simple, but the mentality of doing things for yourself helps you to stay grounded in the face of success. I carry that sentiment with me as I travel around the world working.”

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The Mural Rediscovered Thomas Hart Benton’s America Today

Thomas Hart Benton, Instruments of Power from America Today, 1930–31, mural cycle consisting of ten panels, egg tempera with oil glazing over Permalba on a gesso ground on linen mounted to wood panels with a honeycomb interior; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of AXA Equitable, 2012

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Thomas Hart Benton, Coal from America Today, 1930–31,mural cycle consisting of ten panels, egg tempera with oil glazing over Permalba on a gesso ground on linen mounted to wood panels with a honeycomb interior; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of AXA Equitable, 2012

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ommissioned by the New School and reflecting the progressive agenda of its creator, America Today, a mural by Thomas Hart Benton, presents a panorama of life in the 1920s and captures the spirit of the time. A current exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art allows a new, public appreciation of the painting.

Thomas Hart Benton’s America Today Mural Rediscovered, curated by Elizabeth Mankin Kornhauser and Randall Griffey, is on view at the Met through April 19th. Visitors to the show will be transported back to the age of the mural’s creation, experiencing the hope born of the industrial expansion and ascendant consumer economy of the ‘20s as well as the shaky foundations of this

rapid growth that caused the Crash and the depths of depression that would follow. Although over 80 years old, the mural reflects concerns that are not far removed from those of the present.

America Today marked a turning point in Benton’s career but also served as a precursor of mural painting that became such a significant part of the Works Progress Administration’s Federal Arts Project in the 1930s. Before working on the mural, Benton had done many experiments in abstract painting, but it is his expressive figurative work and his rejection of modernism for which he’s most well-known.

America Today charts a course between figurative and abstraction, making it the ultimate achievement of the artist’s ca-

reer. It elevated his stature among fellow artists and in critical circles, creating “a singular achievement of American art in the period,” according to the Met. It also fits alongside the movement of Mexican muralists like Diego Rivera, David Siqueros, and Jose Clemente Orozco in its grand sweep and political engagement.

Benton’s 10-panel mural was commissioned by the New School for Social Research to adorn its boardroom in its modernist building on West 12th Street. The resultant work was a sweeping vista of American life during the 1920s, from cotton farmers that hark back to the previous century to the airplanes and flappers that were emblematic of the immediate era. BroadWinter 2014/2015

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Thomas Hart Benton, City Activities with Dancehall from America Today, 1930–31, mural cycle consisting of ten panels, egg tempera with oil glazing over Permalba on a gesso ground on linen mounted to wood panels with a honeycomb interior; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of AXA Equitable, 2012

way shows, stockbrokers, oil wells, and factories are among the many included vignettes. The mural remained at the New School for over 50 years. In 1984, in support of a campaign to keep the mural intact and in New York City, AXA Equitable Life Insurance Company acquired it, and after an extensive cleaning and restoration, installed it in its corporate headquarters at 787 Seventh Avenue. The mural later moved with the company to 1290 Avenue of the Americas where it was displayed in the lobby.

It remained there until January 2012, when building renovation forced AXA to remove the work. This ultimately led to the decision to donate the historic 60

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mural to the Metropolitan Museum, putting in motion this exhibition.

Presented alongside the mural are works that provide insight into Benton’s artistic process and others that situate America Today within a larger context. Benton’s work on the project was informed by his travels around the United States in the preceding decade.

He often began the mural process by creating clay models and these were further fleshed out by sketches from his trips, during which he sought to capture symbols of industry: from furnaces to drills to tractors. Character studies were also an essential part of his creation and many of these are presented

in the show. Another section brings together works by other artists in order to place America Today within a larger context. Among these are photographs from that time by Walker Evans, Berenice Abbott, and Lewis Hine, as well as a painting by Jackson Pollock, Pasiphaë (1943). This inclusion provides a personal connection, as the abstract expressionist painter was a student of Benton and even served as a model for his teacher’s mural.

The highlight of the exhibition is the mural itself, presented in a reconstruction of the 30-by-22-foot New School boardroom, which allows viewers to experience it in the setting in which it was

Thomas Hart Benton, Changing West from America Today, 1930–31, mural cycle consisting of ten panels, egg tempera with oil glazing over Permalba on a gesso ground on linen mounted to wood panels with a honeycomb interior; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of AXA Equitable, 2012

Thomas Hart Benton, City Building from America Today, 1930– 31, mural cycle consisting of ten panels, egg tempera with oil glazing over Permalba on a gesso ground on linen mounted to wood panels with a honeycomb interior; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of AXA Equitable, 2012

originally created; even the surrounding paint scheme is replicated. The ten panels are imposing in size, with nearly all of them over six feet in height, and are framed by aluminum-leaf wooden moldings that also serve as spatial breaks within each large panel. Walking along the panels, one gains a sense of 1920s American life in all its complexities. America Today champions both the modern industry that made the United States into the leading power following World War I as well as the workers, the “heroic proletariat”, who made it possible and would soon suffer from its collapse.

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Museum Watch

At the Getty Center: Joseph Mallord William Turner, The Burning of the Houses of Lords and Commons, 1834, oil on canvas, 36 1/4 x 48 1/2 in. Philadelphia Museum of Art: The John Howard McFadden Collection, 1928

J.M.W. TURNER: PAINTING SET FREE

JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT

In the last fifteen years of his life, Turner produced his most inventive work. Sixty key oil painting and watercolors, demonstrating his inspired creativity and radicalism of technique, are presented in this major exhibition.

Rising swiftly in the beorgeoning 1980s New York City Art market and dying at the age of 27, Jean-Michael Basquiat created stirking works that tackled racism, identity, and social tension. This retrospective, subtitled Now's the Time, features 85 of his paintings and drawings.

J. Paul Getty Center, Los Angeles February 24 through May 24

BILL MORRISON: RE-COMPOSITIONS Museum of Modern Art, New York through March 31

Morrison constructs films from early silent dramatic films and found footage combined with specially composed soundtracks. Six different programs of short films will be rotated during the exhibition.

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Art Gallery of Ontario, Toronto February 7 through May 10

INDIGENOUS BEAUTY

Seattle Art Museum February 12 through May 17 Subtitled Masterworks of American Indian Art from the Diker Collection, this presentation of one of the most comprehensive private collections includes 110 works that represent tribes across North America.

Louise Davis Minot, Niagara Falls, 1818, oil on linen, New York Historical Society, gift of Mrs. Waldron Phoenix Belknap, Sr. to the Waldron Phoenix Belknap, Jr. Collection

NATURE & THE AMERICAN VISION: THE HUDSON RIVER SCHOOL Los Angeles County Museum of Art through June 7

Taken from the collection of the New York Historical Society, this show features 45 American landscape paintings from the 19th century, presenting a grand tour of the country during that period.

MCA DNA: ALEXANDER CALDER

Museum of Contemporary Art, Chicago through May 10 This exhibition, closing soon after a year-and-half run, traces the development of the Calder's ideas over his 50-year career in such forms as mobiles, stabiles, and works on paper.

Alexander Calder, Chat-Mobile (Cat Mobile), 1966, painted sheet metal and steel wire, 20 x 26 x 26 in. Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago, the Leonard and Ruth Horwich Family Loan Š 2010 Calder Foundation, NY / ARS, NY

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A CANADIAN TREASURE

Article and photography by Karl Zimmermann

O

n April 24, 1955, the Canadian Pacific Railway launched a head-turning stainlesssteel streamliner and named it the Canadian. The train spanned its namesake country, running from Montreal and Toronto to Vancouver. It traversed Ontario’s rugged, rock and lake-strewn Canadian Shield, the vast prairies, and the soaring mountain ranges of the West. Astonishingly, this very streamliner celebrates its sixtieth birthday this year and, after two major refurbishments, is as grand and glam as ever. Its route was changed in 1990 to Canadian National from Canadian Pacific, and its only eastern terminus is now Toronto, but the physical train remains intact in every aspect.

The Canadian is a virtual time machine, an exemplar of the moderne aesthetic dominant in the years just before and following

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The eastbound Canadian not far from the resort town of Jasper

World War II. The original cars and amenities remain: a fine, elegant diner where freshly prepared meals are served in

style; “Scenic Domes,” where 24 seats on an upper level under glass provide the finest views ever devised on rails; a rounded “Bullet

Lounge” tail-end observation area, the perfect place for early-morning coffee or evening cocktails and chatting with fellow passengers

and a wide choice of sleeping accommodations. These include what were traditionally known as roomettes, double bedrooms,

and drawing rooms but VIA Rail Canada, the train’s operator since 1978, renamed “cabins for 1, 2, and 3.”

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Boarding at Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station in the pre-Prestige era

Barry, the service coordinator, checks in passengers at Jasper

A cabin in Prestige Class set up for day use 66

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One type of accommodation, the thriftiest other than coach, VIA does call by its traditional name, and it’s a surprising survivor: upper and lower berths.

These are “open sections,” which convert from facing seats for day use to beds at night, separated from the aisle only by the heavy curtains the attendant hangs for that purpose. Some may recall these from movies (“Some Like it Hot” comes to mind) but few from personal experience, since they fell out of favor in the States by the sixties.

And right now something is debuting at the other end of the luxury spectrum, as a dozen cars from the Canadian’s fleet are being modified to offer “Prestige Class”: spacious bedrooms with cocktail table and L-shaped sofa by day and a double Murphy bed that folds out of the wall at night to face an oversize window, private shower, and other amenities such as flat-screen video monitors. The project has been under way since 2009 and, after a “soft opening” last August, should be fully in place by May. This is just icing on the cake, however, since the Canadian was already very luxurious. Say you board the train in Vancouver at Pacific Central Station for the leisurely 2775-mile, four-night, three-day ramble east to Toronto.

(The train used to make the journey in three nights, but most of today’s passengers don’t seem to mind the extra night aboard, and the Canadian battles with proliferating Canadian National freights for track space.) Leaving the station’s small lounge for sleeping-car passengers, you walk down the platform past this

Passengers relaxing in a pre-Prestige Park Car as an early dusk settles over Manitoba

Hors ‘d’oeuvres and entertainment in the Bullet Lounge of Laurentide Park

Empress dining car

gleaming string of pearls, ready for its 8:30 p.m. departure: a matched set of fluted stainless-steel cars delivered in the middle of the last century by the Budd Company, generally acknowledged the foremost builder of streamliners.

The first car you’ll pass is the train’s gem, the “Park Car,” so-called (initially informally) because these cars are named for Canada’s national and provincial parks (Laurentide Park, Prince Albert Park, for instance). This car, which has been rebuilt and restyled as part of the Prestige Class program, features a dome, the convivial round-end Bullet Lounge now lined with banquettes, a bar under the dome, a wheelchair-accessible cabin, and a Prestige Class cabin. Then come sleepers mostly of the “Manor” class (Sherwood Manor, Elgin Manor), named for distinguished Canadians of British heritage.

Scarcer are “Chateau” sleepers (Chateau Lauzon, Chateau Joliet), honoring French Canadians.

These two types of sleeper offer different mixes of sections, roomettes, bedrooms, and drawing rooms. In mid-train is a dining car, each named for a restaurant or a hotel in the Canadian Pacific chain. It will be ready to greet you the next morning with a sumptuous breakfast: eggs any style, bacon, sausage, pancakes, the works, all freshly prepared and graciously served on linenbedecked tables. Lunches and dinners are at least as good.

With breakfast over, you’d better hustle back to the Park Car’s dome, for the Canadian is running along the sparkling North Thompson River and will be for much of the day. Before Winter 2014/2015

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Night falls on Prestige Class Laurentide Park at Jasper

reaching Jasper in late afternoon, you’ll have plenty to see. You’ll be alerted by the train crew when the train is about to pass within a stone’s throw of Pyramid Falls; the engineer brakes for waterfalls, or at least for this one. Mount Robson, at 12,972 feet the Canadian Rockies’ tallest peak, will loom up in the front dome windows. You’ll crest Yellowhead Pass, where the line humps over the continental divide. At Jasper, window-washers will appear and scrub every inch of glass, readying the train for the balance of the journey east: less famously scenic, but every mile is in its way worth looking at.

Winter is my preferred season to ride the Canadian, for a number of reasons. The train is much 68

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shorter, just eleven cars on a recent trip. (In summer it can swell to an unwieldy 30.) The smaller train means less competition for seats in the Park Car dome and Bullet Lounge and in the diner. Your fellow passengers are likely to be aboard for more diverse reasons than the touristic summer crowd’s and thus have more interesting stories to share at table in the diner (where seating is communal, as is usual on trains). The feeling aboard can be much like a house party, where you get to know each other, by face if not always by name, and take pleasure in the fellowship of a shared journey. The crew is typically less harried. And, oh yes, fares are lower in winter.

There is another rail option

in Western Canada: the Rocky Mountaineer, a popular tour train that operates on the Canadian’s current route from Vancouver to Jasper and other lines, most notably that train’s original Canadian Pacific path through Lake Louise and Banff to Calgary, traversing the famous Spiral Tunnels. The Rocky Mountaineer is unequivocally a tour train, covering every mile in daylight and putting passengers off over night in motels at Kamloops, B.C., the midpoint on its twoday journey. Gold Leaf class—the whole upper level under glass, a dining room below for excellent breakfasts and lunches (dinners are off the train)—is a fine experience.

But the Canadian is a horse of a different color: a full-service train

Crossing the North Thompson River in British Columbia

that provides transportation along with pleasure. True, especially in summer, most passengers are more tourists than travelers, and in fact many opt for just the one-day, onenight run through the mountains between Vancouver and Jasper.

There’s much more to the train than that, however, not the least of which is experiencing the sweep and vastness of central and Western Canada and swallowing it whole.

Americans envy the myriad highspeed trains of Europe, and well we should, but the Canadian offers something rarely found elsewhere in the world: the chance to settle comfortably into a journey over multiple days, to dine in style, to get to feel at home but in motion.

(Amtrak’s long-distance trains

offer this too, but not as well.)

The Rocky Mountaineer is akin to the vast flotilla of cruise ships that today sail the world; the Canadian instead evokes the great ocean liners, still in their heyday when that train was launched. Today only the Queen Mary 2 soldiers on in that role for Cunard, the line that coined the slogan “Getting there is half the fun.”

On the third afternoon out, your Toronto-bound train, known to railroaders as No. 2 (eastbound trains are always even numbered and easy to remember) rather than by its name, is now crossing the Canadian Shield, a virtual wilderness. It slows and snakes into a passing siding, then stops.

The timetable suggests that, rather

than meeting a Canadian National freight, you may be waiting for No. 1, the westbound Canadian. You are, and dome denizens scramble and shoulder in with cameras and iPhones as the train approaches, eager to record the encounter.

No. 1 glides by—locomotives, baggage car, coaches, dome, diner, sleepers, and then the Park Car, which slips into the distance, eventually shrinking to just a dot bracketed by two red pinpricks of marker lights. Finally it’s gone, off to keep an appointment in Vancouver, as it’s been doing for 60 years.

A CANADIAN

TREASURE

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ROLEX MONTEREY MOTORSPORT REUNION 2014 Article and photography by Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor

The featured marque was Maserati and here are the assembled examples for this years group shot.

F

rom the onset, let’s face reality here - vintage racing in America has grown to huge proportions encompassing virtually coast to coast, and in-between. The sport is world-wide, and in England the place to go is Goodwood (see my article in Chronos: issue #106). But, for the

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single most prestigious, biggest and best show with the highest number of paid attendees - one must go to Monterey, California, where for years now Rolex has been shining in the fog and the sun with four days of track time at the famous Mazda Laguna Seca Raceway.

The CEO and President of Rolex USA

called it perfectly when he said that the machines at this event are, “A museum springing to life.”

The Rolex Monterey Motorsport Reunion event draws over 500 classic, vintage race cars yearly, many of them return invitees. These cars span eras from early in the 20th century right up

James Adler in his 1952 Jaguar XK 120

Peter Reed and his 1966 Ford Shelby GT 350 gets a little wild as he leads a pack from his group down the famous Corkscrew. to what we call the semi-modern years, the early seventies. Funny how we look at the 1970’s now as semi-modern. I remember well how advanced those cars were considered then. Race cars were amazingly fast and complicated and swoopy and sexy and expensive and dangerous and thrilling and loud. All

that hasn’t changed, but our outlook on them today has changed, indeed. Seeing these cars at full throttle, running around one of the best race courses in the world, is wonderful to behold and is treasured by the thousands of fans who come here year after year. The track, part of a public parks system on the Monterey

Peninsula, has everything a driver and a fan could want. For the participant, the course is challenging with a vertical drop that tends to lift your stomach into someplace other than where it should be, while the rest of your body remains put. There are long straight-aways and long curves where cars from all eras can Winter 2014/2015

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One of the greatest Ferrari’s of all time, and some say the greatest, the 1963 Ferrari 250 GTO Berlinetta of Thomas Price at speed and all alone.

Derek Hill, son of the late great US F1 Champion Phil Hill in a unique 1962 Maserati Tipo 151. show off their abilities and their drivers’ skills. For the fans, there are so many venues to watch from, that there is virtually not one place better than any other to view these cars at speed.

The paddock is so full, yet each year there seems to be some corner still open being filled with another couple of cars, until the seams are bursting. The Raceway could use another paddock, and another day to accommodate all the cars that couldn’t come. It is an invitation only event, and only the best of the best are invited, giving the huge crowds thrills year after year.

The famous Trident Maserati was the feature marque this year and a small 72

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assembly of these racing examples graced the track for the annual group photo shot. A few of the older cars had not been run in 50 or more years while others continue to be campaigned around the country, and some around the world.

These classics, along with most all the other cars, come after painstaking restorations and maintenance programs. To see them roar at full throttle, often going wheel to wheel, tends to make many of us a bit nervous. Think about this for a moment while you read this and look at the photos. People buy these cars, often unrestored or at the very least, needing lots of mechanical and cosmetic attention. They spend quite a tidy sum

of money to bring them up to condition. And, in some cases, these cars are worth many many millions not thousands. Then, they drive these cars as if they belong to someone else with nary a care about any possibility of damaging them, and maybe themselves. The mere fact that vintage racing has gotten more competitive and the drivers go wheel to wheel is what makes it so much fun for the fans and the drivers both. It is really racing as it was meant to be!

Another aspect of fun connected to this event is that Rolex brings to the event a feeling of camaraderie: the enjoyment of friendships old and new. Many famous drivers love to come here to

Rick Hayden peddling along in his famous 1961 Volvo P1800 of former Sebring class winner, Art Riley.

A typical row of race cars in the paddock. This row consists of prewar cars. spend this weekend racing older cars and being with sportsmen of all ages. Many of the drivers enjoy the way this event is put on and the way Rolex has made them feel that this is their special time with their special car or cars. And the fans see it and respond accordingly. The paddock is constantly humming with engines, people milling about and talking as drivers make their final adjustments to their brakes or some other part of their cars, or just relax with their friends and family in their little areas. The crowds are huge.

The participants are often outgoing and available to speak with the public about their cars. And there are always manufacturers here to show off new products

or prototypes or bring their classics back out for the world to take yet another peep at them before they return them to their quiet nests in their places in museums. The Rolex Monterey Motorsport Reunion is a huge happening and it seems to be growing each year, as is the sport of racing itself.

It is interesting to note that the idea for such an event took root back in 1974. Now, between the interest of the drivers, the fans, the manufacturers, the industry leaders, and the officials, it has become the American center for vintage racing. It is, in fact, one of three major events in an all-encompassing week that is known as Monterey in August. And

come Sunday, when the awards and podium are filled with the winners, Rolex gets to spread more joy by placing their prized watches on the wrists of the top tier of drivers from these fabulous four days. Truly, these accomplishments are worthy of the timepieces they receive!

The entire four days is a treat for any car lover, race fan or not. It is hard to beat the California weather this time of the year: add to that the people and places to see. This is a trip worth planning and as I have warned you before, book your hotels and rentals early or you will be staying far away and have to commute even further.

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AM

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When you visit one of our Guild Stores, please ask for your complimentary copy of How To Buy A Watch and The Care and Service of Fine Watches.

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deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry Neiman Marcus

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Winter 2014/2015

King Jewelers

CARIBBEAN

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Virgin Islands Jewels, St. Thomas Royal Caribbean, St. Thomas Trident Jewels & Time, St. Thomas

watch collector HUBLOT BIG BANG FERRARI 305 The Big Bang Ferrari 305 is available with either a gold case, in a series of 25 pieces, or a titanium case in a series of 50 pieces. Highlight colors include blue, red and white, as a special nod to Ferrari. The movement is the HUB 1241 Unico, an automatic flyback chronograph caliber, with a 72-hour power reserve. It is water resistant to 100 meters. The strap is blue leather with white stitching and white rubber backing. This piece is exclusive to Hublot’s Miami boutique in Bal Harbour.

Hublot 800-536-0636 www.hublot.com

RAYMOND WEIL MAESTRO LIMITED EDITION This special-edition Maestro is a tribute to founder Raymond Weil, who passed away recently. The watch contains a COSC-certified automatic chronograph movement, Caliber RW1926, with a 42-hour power reserve. The 45mm case is 18k rose gold. Functions include chronograph seconds, hour and minute totalizers, a small-seconds subdial and a tachymeter scale. It is water resistant to 50 meters. The 100-piece numbered limited edition is presented in a box made of olive tree wood, bearing Raymond Weil’s signature.

Raymond Weil 212-355-3350 www.Raymond-Weil.com

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watch collector MONTBLANC TIMEWALKER URBAN SPEED The Urban Speed reflects the codes of the sporty TimeWalker line. It includes skeletonized horns, a narrow bezel, a large dial with Arabic numerals, lancet-shaped hands and red accents. The case is made of sandblasted steel, and the black ceramic bezel is highlighted by a red ring. It contains the self-winding Caliber MB 25.07, incorporating an integrated chronograph function with an elapsed second hand that advances in eighth-of-a-second increments. There is also a date window at 4 o’clock.

Montblanc 800-995-4810 www.montblanc.com

SEIKO ASTRON GPS SOLAR LIMITED EDITION The Astron series features Seiko’s solar powered technology, which uses light to power its movements so that it never needs a battery. This limited edition has a satellite powered GPS system of automatic time zone adjustment that adjusts to your time zone at the touch of a button. Functions include a 6-hour chronograph with 1/5-second increments, perpetual calendar, and 40-zone time indication. The case is titanium and the bezel is ceramic.

Seiko Corp. of America 800-782-2510 www.seikousa.com

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watch collector PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDA 1950 SQUELETTE The bridges and main plate of the automatic Caliber PF705 movement have been open-worked and meticulously finished. The dial is made of sapphire crystal, through which can be seen a platinum microrotor. Functions include simply hours and minutes, and the movement has a 42-hour power reserve. The case is 39mm wide and 7.8mm thick. The watch is available in 18k white or rose gold, with a black or tan Hermès strap.

Parmigiani Fleurier 305-260-7770 www. Parmigiani.ch

VACHERON CONSTANTIN TRADITIONNELLE MOON PHASE The Traditionnelle collection is associated with pure watchmaking, and the moon phase indicator is one of the most classic of complications. It contains the hand wound Caliber 1410 with a 40-hour power reserve, entirely developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin. The moon phase function needs adjustment only once every 122 years. The 36mm case is 18k white or pink gold, and is set with 81 diamonds totaling 1.2 carats. The dial is white mother-of-pearl.

Vacheron Constantin 877-701-1755 www.vacheron-constantin.com

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watch collector MB&F HM6 SPACE PIRATE MB&F has introduced its most complicated watch to date, with hours and minutes displayed on aluminum domes which rotate vertically. They are balanced by two small turbines, each composed of 15 curved vanes which regulate the speed of the rotor in the automatic movement. The case is made with an alloy of titanium, aluminum, vanadium and iron. It contains a total of 10 sapphire crystals, including four for the hour and minute indications, four for the turbines and a flat one for the display back. At the center is a tourbillon escapement. It is a limited edition of 50 pieces.

MB&F +41 22 786 36 18 www.mbandf.com

ZENITH ACADEMY GEORGES FAVRE-JACOT This timepiece commemorates the 150th anniversary of the Zenith manufacture, and is named after its founder Georges Favre-Jacot. A highlight of this high-frequency movement, the hand wound El Primero Caliber 4810, is the fusÊe and chain mechanism that keeps the rate constant. It contains 797 components and is COSCcertified. Functions include hours, minutes and small seconds, as well as a power reserve indicator between 4 and 5 o’clock. The 45mm case is 18k rose gold.

Zenith 866-675-2079 www.zenith-watches.com

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MERKAVA WATCHES Tel: 866-963-3777 www.merkavawatches.com

CHOPARD 800-CHOPARD www.US.Chopard.com

MOVADO 650 From Road Paramus, NJ 07652 Tel: 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com

CITIZEN 1200 Wall Street West Lyndhurst, NJ 07071 Tel: 201-438-8150 http://www.citizenwatch.com DAVID OSCARSON Tel: 636-458-4345 www.davidoscarson.com

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Winter 2014/2015

PORSCHE CLASSIC GENUINE PARTS & REPAIR http://www.porsche.com/classic www.porscheusa.com/classic-shop RALPH LAUREN Tel: 877-639-7934 www.RalphLaurenWatches.com

SwissKubiK Luxury Products Intl.

20 Spyglass Point Circle Bedford, NH 03110 Tel: 347-329-2971 www.LuxuryProductsInternational.com TAVANNES P. O. Box 85 Valencia, PA 16059 Tel: 412-600-4240 www.tavanneswatches.com U-BOAT Kenro Industries Inc. 393 Jericho Turnpike Mineola, NY 11501 Tel: 516-741-0011 www.u-boatwatch.com WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com

T:16.75 in S:16.25 in

RALPH LAUREN Fine Watchmaking

P-38 Lightning™ Valjoux Chronograph No. 9461: 44 mm, stainless steel brushed case, screw down crown www.luminox.com NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS DALLAS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR & case back, antireflective sapphire crystal, fixed bezel, water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap facebook.com/Luminox with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

BETTERIDGE GREENWICH MOYER’S FINE JEWELERS CARMEL BENARI JEWELERS EXTON, NEWTOWN SQUARE A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Plane.

The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the

FOR PRIVATE APPOINTMENTS: 212.434.8050

Collection.

A SELECTION OF TIMEPIECES IS NOW AVAILABLE AT RALPHLAUREN.COM

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T:10.875 in

18K ROSE GOLD. MANUAL WINDING MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT. 40-HOUR POWER RESERVE. SWISS MADE.

B:11.125 in

S:10.375 in

Ralph Lauren 867 Timepiece

FOR THE CURIOUS, THE COLLECTOR AND THE CONNOISSEUR

Winter 2014/2015 $6.95

WINTER 2014/2015

A Canadian Treasure

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NUMBER ONE HUNDRED TWELVE

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Ralph Lauren The Elegant Sportsman Movado Helps Men Help Others

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