Chronos Spring/Summer # 108

Begin your own tradition.

For the Curious, The Collector and the Connoisseur

Spring/Summer 2014

Spring/summer 2014

You never actually own a Patek Philippe.

You merely take care of it for the next generation.

$6.95

•

Number one hundred eight

Nautilus Ref. 5712/1A, Nautilus cufflinks.

Scootering Bulgari Masters of Time Andrew Wyeth Through the Window Ralph Lauren On Time

Eberhard & Co. Chrono 4 Grande Taille

T:16.75 in S:16.25 in

The Ralph Lauren RL67 Safari Collection

NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS DALLAS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR BETTERIDGE GREENWICH HAMILTON JEWELERS PALM BEACH MARSHALL PIERCE CHIGAGO FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF STORES, PLEASE VISIT RALPHLAURENWATCHES.COM

41738RL_Chronos Magazine April.indd All Pages

P-38 Lightning™ Chronograph No. 9441: 44 mm, stainless steel brushed case, screw down crown & caseback, antireflective sapphire crystal, black aluminum inlay bezel with tachymeter, water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination.

Swiss Made.

A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Jet. The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the

Collection.

GUNMETAL FINISH SELF-WINDING TOURBILLON www.luminox.com MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT facebook.com/Luminox EQUIPPED

WITH A MICRO-ROTOR

SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CASE BACK 38-HOUR POWER RESERVE SWISS MADE

3/19/14 1:12 PM

B:11.125 in

STAINLESS STEEL 45MM MODEL

T:10.875 in

S:10.375 in

THE RL67 TOURBILLON

T:16.75 in S:16.25 in

STAINLESS STEEL 45MM MODEL GUNMETAL FINISH SELF-WINDING TOURBILLON MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT EQUIPPED WITH A MICRO-ROTOR SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CASE BACK 38-HOUR POWER RESERVE SWISS MADE

3/19/14 1:12 PM

T:10.875 in

S:10.375 in

THE RL67 TOURBILLON

Spring/Summer 2014

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Baselworld 2014

Editor's Outline

Page 30

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56 Andrew Wyeth’s Through the Window

News

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Eberhard & Co. Time for Tradition

Previews

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Ralph Lauren On Time

Baselworld 2014

by Carol Besler

Page 43

38 Chanel Technical Treasures

by Carol Besler

Andrew Wyeth, Through the Window

68 70 Scootering The Cold Rush

by Denis L. Tanney

Ralph Lauren On Time

78 Ferrari F12 Berlinetta

by Stuart Leuthner

46 Bulgari Masters of Time

by Carol Besler

Sands Shaped by Time

by Keiko Makishima

Indestructible Reactor

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Page 56

50 Movado’s Modern Touch

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No. 108

Spring/Summer 2014

94 Watch Collector Scootering Page 70

CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is published bi-monthly for $30.00 per year by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the April/May issue.

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Editor'S Outline

The subject being “time”, we include the stories below in thissubject issue being of Chronos.

The “time”, in this issue of Chronos we include the stories below.

Since its inception in the 1880’s Eberhard & Co. has kept pace with watchmaking history to this very day. This year the enduring brand introduced five new models at Baselworld in March. See the story Time for Tradition on page 60 to appreciate the versatility of Eberhard & Co. in meeting all the challenges of haute horology over the years.

A relative newcomer to the story of time, Ralph Lauren On Time, on page 43 shows what happens when a fashion icon teams up with the worlds’ most elite watchmaking company.

Every detail of the Ralph Lauren Timepiece Collection was meticulously developed by the designer himself to express the design codes and the passion for traditional craftsmanship that characterize understated luxury.

Adhering to the same standards that the world of haute couture abides by, Chanel has made a name for itself as a master of haute horology. Their watches are made from the highest quality materials with great attention to details, finish and hand craftsmanship.

Chanel takes as much pride in its fashion roots as it does in its watchmaking abilities, something that gives it an edge over other elite watch brands. See Chanel - Technical Treasures on page 38.

In this issue we examine another kind of race and sport. See the story of scootering or ice sailing on page 70. In The Cold Rush we learn about a sport that has been around since approximately 1870. Ice boats or scooters, as they are known, can sail over all kinds of ice and skim the water; some at astonishing high speeds. Ice sailing boats race, as do cars, with time being the measurement of winning and losing.

The timepieces we wear to record the passage of time may be outdone by Mother Nature.

In the article Sands Shaped by Time, we see how the White Sands National monument serves as a constant reminder of how awe-inspiring nature can be, and how transformative time is.

See story on page 62.

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Spring/Summer 2014

hermès. time reinvented.

cape cod nantucket hermès, the alchemist of time, introduces the cape cod nantucket, a radiant watch that captures light to bring a special glow to your wrist. it blithely adapts to its wearer’s whims thanks to its interchangeable strap. yet it remains forever elegant, slender and playful, revelling in the passing of time rather than fearing it, thanks to its case fashioned in silver , a silver alloy exclusive to hermès.

1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com

news Panerai honors Navy SEAL Luttrell Drew Brees, quarterback for the New Orleans Saints and a friend of Officine Panerai recently presented a Panerai watch to Marcus Luttrell, a retired United States Navy SEAL, bestselling author and founder of the Lone Survivor Foundation. The watch, a PAM 364 Luminor Submersible 1950 2500M 3 Days Automatic Titanio, was presented at a dinner hosted by Vahid Moradi, president of the Panerai boutique in La Jolla, and Rafael Alvarez, president of Panerai North America, at the Pamplemousse Grille in Solana Beach, California. Â Marcus Luttrell is a retired United States Navy SEAL, who received the Navy Cross and Purple Heart for his actions in June 2005 facing Taliban fighters during Operation Red Wings. He wrote the book Lone Survivor: The Eyewitness Account of Operation Redwing and the Lost Heroes of SEAL Team 10, which became a bestseller.

In 2010, Marcus started the Lone Survivor Foundation, and this year, a major motion picture was released depicting the story of Lone Survivor, directed by Peter Berg and starring Mark Wahlberg.

The Panerai PAM 364 was presented to former Navy SEAL Marcus Luttrell.

Spring/Summer 2014

No. 108

PUBLISHER & EXECUTIVE EDITOR Bertram Kalisher MANAGING EDITOR Patricia Renzo ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind Watch & Jewelry Editor Carol Besler WRITERS Jeff Prine Carol Besler Stuart Leuthner Bertram Kalisher Marceline Kalisher PHOTOGRAPHY Keiko Makishima TECHNICAL WRITER David Christianson AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR Denis L. Tanney PRODUCTION OFFICE Chronos 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516 Ads@ChronosWatchMagazine.com EXECUTIVE OFFICE EDITORIAL ADVERTISING 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 (516) 295-2516; Fax: (516) 374-5060 www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com

From left to right: Rafael Alvarez, Drew Brees, Vahid Moradi, Marcus Luttrell.

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Spring/Summer 2014

CHRONOS (ISSN # 1083-5458) is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557.

Copyright 2011 by Kalbe Associates, Inc. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in CHRONOS. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. Subscriptions: $6.95 per copy; $30.00 per year in the United States; add $18.00 per year for foreign postage.

L

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Schaumburg Watch Ice Crystal

The L.U.C Collection Each part is a masterpiece The

width

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suppleness of the three patented hammers in the L.U.C Chrono One is calculated to enable the chronograph hands to be swiftly and gently reset to zero. Making this vital part too thick would result in a rough jerking motion, while if it were too thin, the hands might not return at all. Like every component in the L.U.C Calibre 03.03-L, each hammer is hand-decorated and finished by the artisans at Chopard Manufacture. The L.U.C Chrono One houses a movement that is chronometer-certified by the COSC.

L.U.C CHRONO ONE

N e w Yo r k - B a l H a r b o u r S h o p s South Coast Plaza - Las Vegas 1 . 8 0 0 . C H O PA R D E x p l o r e t h e c o l l e c t i o n a t U S . C H O PA R D . C O M

22620 Chopard-ChronosAprilMay14_003Chrono.indd 1

Frisco, TX p:(214)494-4241

Distributed by ATLG (401)952-4684

3/12/14 9:11 AM

news Richard Mille makes a clock for Quebec Richard Mille has constructed a clock that was recently gifted to Quebec City in Canada. Christened “l’Horloge Porte-Bonheure,” the project was launched in 2008 to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Quebec City, the biggest French-speaking city in North America. The Republic and Canton of Jura and Richard Mille wanted to give Quebec a symbolic gift and this exclusive creation is emblematic of the region, representing the culture, know-how and activity of the Swiss Canton of Jura. The clock, with 5,451 components, took 6,571 hours of development and 3,952 hours of assembly and adjustment. It has a stainless steel case and components that are between 300 and 500 times larger than found in a wristwatch. It has a constant force mechanism that releases and blocks the force of the daily weight transmitted by two big wheels. To remind everyone of the clock’s provenance and its strongly symbolic stature, a second time zone – that of the Jura in Switzerland is displayed all along the glass column.

The Richard Mille clock for Quebec City.

Hublot helps provide water Hublot and the rock band Depeche Mode raised $1.4-million at a recent charity dinner for the nonprofit organization called charity: water! The rock-inspired gala dinner included a live auction of two Hublot Depeche Mode limited editions, and was held in Moscow, where the group was on tour. The mission of charity: water is to supply clean, safe water to the inhabitants of developing countries worldwide. Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot CEO, commented: “This unique collaboration is part of our ongoing special relationship with Depeche Mode. If our friendship can make a difference then we must not hesitate, since connection is all about sharing.”

Depeche Mode, with Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, second from right.

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©2013 movado group, inc.

news Jaeger-LeCoultre helps raise ovarian cancer awareness Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched a partnership with the Ovarian Cancer National Alliance to help raise funds and awareness of this deadly disease. The partnership was initiated at a benefit and awards dinner held in New York City in May, where a live auction featured a special timepiece from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The watch, a Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin, features an engraving of the Alliance logo and a unique teal-colored alligator strap. In addition, Jaeger-Le-Coultre has created 10 watches with these unique tealcolored straps (five men’s and five women’s) for sale this fall.

The inspiration for the teal color came from the prints of photographer and watch expert Howard Parr, who lost his step-mother to ovarian cancer. He produced a limited-edition series of black and white photographs of ovarian cancer survivors engaged in their favorite activities, with a single detail accented in teal – the official color of ovarian cancer awareness. September 2014 is National Ovarian Cancer Awareness Month, when Jaeger-LeCoultre will host two events featuring Howard Parr’s photography at the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques in Beverly Hills and South Coast Plaza, California. The company will donate 10% of sales for seven days following each event to the Alliance.

The Jaeger-LeCoutre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Lady for Ovarian Cancer National Alliance.

One of Howard Parr’s portraits of ovarian cancer survivors engaged in their favorite activities, with a single detail accented in teal. This one of Broadway star & Tony nominee Valisia LeKae. Photo credit Howard Parr

Joaillerie 101 with Diane Kruger Jaeger-LeCoultre ambassador Diane Kruger wore a Joaillerie 101 Art Deco, the brand’s iconic high jewelry timepiece, to the post-Oscar Vanity Fair party. The watch’s movement, Caliber 101, has remained the world’s smallest mechanical movement for over 80 years.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Art Deco.

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Diane Kruger, the face of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ladies’ collection, wearing a Joaillerie 101 Art Deco at Vanity Fair’s Oscar Party.

©2013 movado group, inc.

Movado/Imtech mg006340a Proof 1

RED LABEL® CALENDOMATIC® 42MM STAINLESS STEEL AUTOMATIC WITH ROTATING CITIES-OF-THE-WORLD DISK AND 24-HOUR GLOBAL TIME INDICATION. MOVADO.COM

news Chopard brings luck at Oscars Chopard was once again the lucky charm for the winner of an Academy Award. For the 11th consecutive year, the watchmaker has provided jewelry or a timepiece to a nominee to wear to the ceremony, and that nominee has won a prize. This year Cate Blanchett, winner of the Oscar for Best Actress, wore opal and diamond drop earrings, a brown diamond bracelet and a pear-shaped diamond ring, all from Chopard.

Matthew McConaughey, winner of the Oscar for Best Actor, wore a Chopard L.U.C XP Tonneau timepiece in 18k gold and onyx cufflinks from Chopard.

Oscar Winners who won wearing Chopard: 2004 - Charlize Theron, Best Actress, Monster 2005 - Hilary Swank, Best Actress, Million Dollar Baby 2006 - Rachel Weisz, Best Supporting Actress, The Constant Gardener 2007 - Helen Mirren, Best Actress, The Queen 2008 - Marion Cotillard, Best Actress, La Vie en Rose 2009 - Kate Winslet, Best Actress, The Reader 2009 - Penelope Cruz, Best Supporting Actress, Vicky Cristina Barcelona 2010 - Mo’Nique, Best Supporting Actress, Precious 2011 – Colin Firth, Best Actor, The King’s Speech 2012 – Michel Hazanavicius, Best Director, The Artist 2013 – Jennifer Lawrence, Silver Linings Playbook 2014 – Cate Blanchett, Blue Jasmine & Matthew McConaughey, Dallas Buyers Club

Matthew McConaughey wearing Chopard L.U.C XP Tonneau.

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Spring/Summer 2014

The L.U.C XP Tonneau worn by Matthew McConaughey.

news Chopard brings luck at Oscars

Cate Blanchett wearing Chopard.

Penelope Cruz wearing Chopard at the Oscars.

Earrings worn by Cate Blanchett on the red carpet, from the Chopard Red Carpet Collection.

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previews De Bethune DB28 Digitale The DB28 Digitale combines a jumping hour with retrograde minutes and a spherical moonphase display surrounded by a star-studded sky. The phase of the moon is tracked with a degree of precision corresponding to a difference of just one lunar day every 1,112 years. De Bethune signature innovations include a self-regulating twin barrel, a circular balance wheel made of white gold and silicon, and a balance-spring with a flat end curve.

De Bethune 917-740-7785 www.debethune.com

Swarovski Christaline Bangle Swarovski’s Christaline Bangle watch combines timekeeping with the style of fashion and the glamor of jewelry. It is set with 1,700 shimmering, full-cut Swarovski crystals, and can be worn two ways: with the stainless steel case or with the rose-gold PVD steel case. The white silver sunray dial features the Swarovski Swan logo at 12 o’clock. It is water resistant to 30 meters. It contains a Swiss-made quartz movement.

Swarovski North America 800-426-308 www.swarovski.com

88 Rue du Rhone Grand Prix The Grand Prix is a 42mm stainless steel watch with a quartz chronograph movement. The design is inspired by a sports car aesthetic, with a sleek black dial and vibrant yellow accents. The dial has an 8-motif filigree decoration. The yellow number 8 is a reference to the brand name. The yellow seconds hand also has an 8-shaped counterweight. The watch is water resistant to 50 meters, and features a black leather strap with yellow stitching.

88 Rue du Rhone 212-737-8882 www.88rdr.com

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Spring/Summer 2014

previews

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Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Extra-Thin Automatic 5377 The 5377 is distinguished by an off-center tourbillon with a carriage that is made out of lightweight titanium. The movement also uses advanced materials, with an escapement made of silicon and anti-magnetic steel. These elements allow the new Caliber 581DR to beat at 4Hz, a high frequency for a tourbillon, and thanks to a patented high-energy barrel, the reference 5377 provides 90 hours of power reserve.

Breguet Swatch Group USA 866-458-7488 www.breguet.com

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT Master The Oyster Perpetual GMT Master has a distinctive red and blue bezel, capturing the color codes of the original 1955 version of this iconic model. The new one has a Cerachrom bezel in a color combination that is extremely difficult to do in ceramic. The movement is the self-winding Caliber 3186, with a stop seconds and a blue Parachrom hairspring made of niobium and zirconium, which is highly precise and shock resistant. The 40mm case of the new one is white gold, and is not limited.

Rolex 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com

Arnold & Son Horses Set This special edition of 28 pairs of watches is inspired by the horses depicted in traditional Chinese ink-wash paintings. The backgrounds of the dials are lacquered in black or white and then hand finished with miniature paintings of two charging horses on each dial – one black and one grey, or one white and one grey. The watches are powered by the hand-wound mechanical movement A&S1001. The cases, which measure 40mm wide, are rendered in 18k rose gold.

Arnold & Son www.arnoldandson.com

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©2014 Citizen Watch Company

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previews Breitling Chronomat Airborne The Chronomat Airborne is a brand icon, with a tri-compax dial, luminescent markers and 500 meter water resistance. This model celebrates 30 years since the introduction of the first Chronomat. It features a military style strap made of woven black fabric on the outside and red leather on the inside. The Chronomat was the first model in the range to host the new Breitling in-house caliber in 2009. This one contains the Breitling Caliber 01 automatic, which is chronometer certified.

Breitling USA 877-BREITLING www.Breitling.com

Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue The Imperial Blue is a flying tourbillon with a Grand Sonnerie Westminster Carillon, and a safety system that stops the sounding of the passing hours while the time is being corrected. It has twin barrels, and the barrel bridge covering both is made out of blue sapphire crystal. The mainspring in one barrel drives the movement, with a 50-hour power reserve. The other barrel drives the chiming of the passing hours, quarter hours and minutes on demand. It is a limited edition of 20 pieces.

Ulysse Nardin 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com

Seiko Prospex Aviation Chronograph The Prospex Aviation Chronograph is a modern reinterpretation of a Seiko classic – the flight computer from 1972. It has a slide rule to allow calculations of distance, fuel and oil consumption, while the chronograph measures elapsed time for up to 60 minutes in 1/5 of a second increments. It is powered by light, and is water resistant to 100 meters.

Seiko Corp. of America 800-782-2510 www.seikousa.com

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Spring/Summer 2014

previews Inside the iconic 12-sided case of the AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon is the mechanical hand-wound Caliber CO 1008 double tourbillon. The two parallel-mounted tourbillons represent an exclusive mechanism for Corum, in a movement that also includes a retrograde date function and an innovative time adjustment system. The case is made of grade 5 titanium, and there is also an 18k red gold option. The inner bezel ring is stamped with nautical pennants.

Corum USA 954-279-1220 www.corum.ch

Tudor The Tudor Heritage Ranger pays tribute to a model that was originally introduced in 1967. An outdoor adventure watch with a military style dial, this new model retains many of the signature characteristics of the original: the tone of the dial, numeral font and indexes, large crown and the historic Tudor Rose logo. The tobacco colored leather strap is meant to be reminiscent of sled harnesses, and is equipped with the Tudor folding clasp. It contains the automatic Tudor caliber 2824.

Tudor Watch 212-897-9900 www.tudorwatch.com

De Grisogono The Allegra S05 is a composition in shades of pink. It has an 18k pink gold case and a multi-strand leather bracelet in shades of pink. The bezel is set with pink spinels, and the dial is pink mother-of-pearl, with 18k pink gold dauphine-style hands. The watch, available in several color options, is water resistant to 30 meters and is driven by a quartz movement.

De Grisogono 212-439-4220 www.degrisogono.com

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Spring/Summer 2014

, Bulova and Bulova Accu • Swiss are registered trademarks. Š 2014 Bulova Corporation. 65B165

Corum Admiral’s Cup AC-One 45 Double Tourbillon

, Bulova and Bulova Accu • Swiss are registered trademarks. Š 2014 Bulova Corporation. 65B165

Visit us at JCK Booth #PC305

previews Bell & Ross The BR 03-94 Carbon Orange is a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Like most Bell & Ross timepieces, it is inspired by aeronautical instrumentation and by the plane as an object. The BR 03-94 is part of the Aviation collection, a characteristic of which has always been to focus on highly legible dials. In this case, large white numerals, indexes and hands stand out boldly against an all black backdrop. The movement is the ETA 2894 mechanical automatic chronograph caliber, with functions that include hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph minute and hour totalizers.

Bell & Ross 888-307-7887 www.bellross.com

Longines Heritage 1935 The Longines Heritage collection celebrates the brand’s long history in watchmaking, and the 1935 is based on a timepiece originally created for aviators in the Czech Air Force in 1935. Like all watches intended for pilots, the dial of the Longines Heritage 1935 is easy to read. The large white Arabic numerals, coated with Super-LumiNova, stand out clearly against the matt black dial. The dial is surrounded by a striking fluted bezel, which is round, while the steel case is cushion shaped. It is fitted with self-winding Caliber L615 movement.

Longines Swatch Group USA 800-897-9477 www.longiness.com

Movado Series 800 Chronograph Movado has added a ladies’ chronograph to this series, with a 35mm steel case and a bezel set with 47 round brilliant diamonds, totaling 0.611ct.

The dial is white mother-of-pearl with a black printed minute index and three etched subdials, with the brand’s signature concave dot at 12 o’clock.

There are eight diamond markers. The movement is a Swiss quartz one, with chronograph functions. The three-link steel bracelet has polished center links and satin finished outer links. It is water resistant to 200 meters.

Movado 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com 24

Spring/Summer 2014

previews Baume & Mercier honors its heritage Baume & Mercier recently introduced two new models in its iconic Clifton collection. The design of the Clifton Chronograph is inspired by timepieces made by the 184-year-old brand in the 1940s and 1950s, considered to be the golden age of wristwatches. The 43mm case is stainless steel, and it contains an ETA 7750 self-winding mechanical movement, with prominent day and date windows. The silver dial is satin finished and snailed, with blued steel hands, and the strap is black alligator. It is water resistant to 50 meters.

Also new is the Baume & Mercier Clifton Flying Tourbillon, which takes its inspiration from a pocket watch created by the brand in 1892. The original version won first prize that year at the Kew Observatory Chronometer competition for accuracy, receiving the highest score in the history of the competition. The movement for the new wristwatch version, Caliber P591, was created by Swiss movement manufacturer Val Fleurier, with a power reserve of 50 hours. It is offered in a limited edition of 30 pieces.

Baume & Mercier 800-MERCIER www.baume-et-mercier.com

Baume & Mercier Clifton Chronograph

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Spring/Summer 2014

Baume & Mercier Clifton Flying Tourbillon

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AirmAn Airfighter ref. 3921 AutomAtic chronogrAph, 46mm, 20 Atm

For an Authorized Glycine retailer near you, please call 855-248-2840 or e-mail usc@glycine.us

previews Vacheron Constantin Skeletons Vacheron Constantin demonstrated its mastery in the art of skeletonization this year in two of its new collections. The new pieces in the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon Openworked Collection, as well as those in the Méchanique Ajourées feature intricately decorated skeletonized movements. The endeavor is a tribute to the early openworked pocket watches made by Jean-Marc Vacheron, along with other influences. The engraving on the Caliber 4400SQ of the Méchanique Ajourées watches is inspired by the openworked architecture of 19th century railway stations.

Caliber 2260SQ, in the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon Openworked was inspired by the arches, Gothic inspired rib vaults and quatrefoil motifs of Venetian architecture. The movement, with four stacked barrels, has a 14-day power reserve. It bears the Hallmark of Geneva. Assembling and decorating the movements of both these watches required between 300 and 550 hours of work.

Vacheron Constantin 877-862-7555, 855-729-1755 www.vacheron-constantin.com

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon Openworked, with skeletonized movement

The Vacheron Constantin Méchanique Ajourées, with skeletonized movement

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4 COUNTER S IN LINE, LIK E NO OTHER S.

C h r o n o 4 G r a n d e Ta i l l e i s a n i m a t e d b y a m e c h a n i c a l a u t o m a t i c movement distinguished by its 4 horizontally aligned counters, that enable an instant and logical readout of time: a revolutionar y device

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Tradition and Innovation

Baselworld 2014

by Carol Besler

Patek Philippe’s Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990, now available in a stainless steel case.

B

aselworld, the massive, week-long watch fair in Basel, Switzerland, is a watch lover’s nirvana, with more new introductions under one roof than at any other fair in the world. More than 150,000 people attended the fair this year, including more than 2,000 journalists.

The editors of Chronos were there, bringing you reports from the fair and gathering information for reports throughout the coming year on what’s new in the watch industry. This year’s new watches

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The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph, Ref. 5960 is now in a stainless steel case.

generally fell into one of, or a combination of two categories: ultra-modern, with new materials and horological inventions; or ultra-traditional, inspired by the early inventions of the founding fathers of watchmaking. Here are a few of the main introductions, and please see our previews section for more coverage.

Elite watchmaker and collector’s favorite, Patek Philippe surprised its fans this year by introducing several steel versions of its high complications, a rare combina-

tion for the brand. These models demonstrate a new level of modernity without compromising its high standards. The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph, Ref. 5960 was originally introduced in 2006 in a platinum case. The movement, automatic Caliber CH 28520 IRM QA 24H, is unchanged, as is the case (except that it is now stainless steel), but the dial has been refurbished, and the bracelet, also steel, is new for the brand.

The first day of the month is displayed in

The new introductions at Basel, the world’s largest watch fair, set the tone for watches in the coming year

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, with a red and blue bezel made of Cerachrom, Rolex’s proprietary ceramic.

Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon is a triple-axis tourbillon.

red and the rest in black. There is also a power reserve indicator and day/night indications.

Also introduced in a steel version this year was Patek Philippe’s Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990. It has two hour hands on the same axis. The lower one is skeletonized, and the upper one matches the style of the minute hand. The skeleton hand displays home time while the solid hour hand indicates local time.

The hour hand for local time can be ad-

justed in one-hour steps with the plus and minus correctors on the left case side. If by mistake, the wearer pushes both forward and back buttons at the same time, the watch automatically defaults to forward. It contains Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS. Another collector’s favorite, Rolex, delighted collectors with the long-awaited “Pepsi,” the nickname for the Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, with a red and blue bezel. The new model captures the

color code and the aesthetic of the original 1955 version of the famous model, but with a Cerachrom bezel for the first time. It is a particular color combination that is extremely difficult to do in ceramic, due to its having a seamless break between red and blue halves.

Among the many impressive complications at the high end were two tri-axis tourbillons that are of special note; one introduced by Girard-Perregaux and the other by Harry Winston. The GirardSpring/Summer 2014

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The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon.

The Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 5 is a tri-axis tourbillon, with an open-worked movement.

Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillon is a tripleaxis tourbillon, with one carriage rotating once every minute, the second rotating every 30 seconds, and the third rotating every two minutes. The entire escapement is accommodated by a dome in the crystal, which protrudes slightly from the case.

The Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon 5 is also a tri-axis tourbillon, with an open-worked movement that houses the 32

Spring/Summer 2014

The Chopard L.U.C “Fair Mined” gold tourbillon.

tourbillon escapements in spherical bridges. The three tourbillons rotate once every 45 seconds, 75 seconds and 300 seconds.

It is driven by twin barrels for a 50-hour power reserve.

Ulysse Nardin also introduced an impressive tourbillon, the Imperial Blue, a flying tourbillon with Grand Sonnerie Westminster Carillon. It has twin barrels and the barrel bridge covering both

is made out of blue sapphire crystal. The watch has a safety system that stops the sounding of the passing hours while the time is being corrected.

Chopard introduced a tourbillon with a twist this year: it is the world’s first “green” tourbillon. The L.U.C tourbillon which is remarkable not only for its manufacture complication, Caliber L.U.C 02.13-L, but because it is the first men’s watch to

Baselworld 2014

Tudor Heritage Black Bay, a 200-meter rated diver’s watch.

The Ulysse Nardin Imperial Blue, a flying tourbillon minute repeater with a Grand Sonnerie Westminster Carillon.

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Regatta Titanium.

be made of “Fair Mined” gold. Chopard’s commitment to sustainable and ethical luxury has led to a partnership with the South American Alliance for Responsible Mining, which works with artisanal miners in the mountains of Colombia. The watch is certified by the Quality Fleurier hallmark, and is a 25-piece limited series.

And finally, there is the record breaking tourbillon introduced by Bulgari, the

Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, which is being touted as the world’s thinnest tourbillon, at just 5.00mm thick. It contains a manual wound caliber that measures just 1.95mm thick, a feat achieved by several technical innovations, including a specially designed carriage and a system of ball bearings that replace the ruby jewels.

Louis Vuitton also weighed in with some impressive pieces. Included is the

Escale Worldtime. A description and photograph of this piece is included in our feature Watch Collector, in this issue.

The Tambour Spin Time Regatta Titanium, a visual regatta timer with a five-minute countdown timer (the new America’s Cup rules dictate a five-minute start). The movement, Caliber LV156 was made by La Fabrique du Temps, and is also a chronograph. The five-minute countdown Spring/Summer 2014

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Baselworld 2014

Bell & Ross BR 01 B-Rocket.

The Hermès Dressage L’heure Masquée.

is indicated on the dial by five rotating cubes. The watch is unique in that the three dials work together to time two races and then track the difference between the two times.

Hermès introduced a new complication this year, the Dressage L’heure Masquée, with an hour hand that remains hidden under the minute hand, appearing only when the crown is pressed. Hermès has determined that most people look at a watch to read the minutes, rather than the hours. There is also a GMT function, which appears when the pusher on the left side of the case is pushed. The brand’s selfwinding Caliber H1925 is equipped with a patented mechanism.

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Tudor, the sister brand to Rolex, introduced a watch that reflects its heritage. The Tudor Heritage Black Bay is a 200-meter rated diver’s watch that pays homage to a model introduced by the brand in 1969.

Bell & Ross, long devoted to aviation, is also dedicated to speed. Its new star piece this year, the Bell & Ross BR 01 BRocket, is named for a custom motorcycle commissioned by the brand, inspired by the racing bikes of the 1960s. It is a chronograph with tachymeter scale. A second watch inspired by the motorcycle, the BR 03 B-Rocket has hours, minutes and seconds display, as well as a large date window and power reserve indicator that is reminiscent of the fuel gage seen on racing

motorcycles.

As usual, several ladies’ watches were introduced this year, many with diamonds.

Among the most impressive were the Dior VIII Grand Bal Plissé Soleil in 18k pink gold with an oscillating weight set with mother-of-pearl, a diamond bezel and alligator strap. A jewelry version of the Breguet Reine de Naples Day/Night is also notable, as was the Graff Butterfly, a high jewelry watch from Graff Diamond set with 78 emeralds, rubies or sapphires and surrounded by diamonds.

All of these watches and more will be rolled out at the finest jewelry stores and watch boutiques in the coming year.

The Graff Butterfly high jewelry watch is set with 78 emeralds.

Dior VIII Grand Bal PlissĂŠ Soleil in 18k pink gold with an oscillating weight set with mother-of-pearl, a diamond bezel and alligator strap.

Breguet's high jewelry version of the Reine de Naples Jour/Nuit model, in 18k white gold, set with approximately 8 carats of diamonds.

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Two-Tone Timers Several two-tone (steel and gold) timepieces were introduced at Baselworld 2014, representing the re-emergence of a major trend in watches designed for everyday wear. Among those introducing timepieces in two-tone this year are Bulgari, Chopard, Omega, Louis Vuitton and Carl F. Bucherer.

The Carl F. Bucherer Pathos Queen, in stainless steel and 18k gold, with a diamond set bezel.

The Chopard Happy Sport Medium Automatic, in steel and 18k rose gold, with seven moving diamonds between two sapphire crystals.

The Omega Seamaster Co-Axial two-tone, in 18k gold and steel.

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The Bulgari Lucea in 18k gold and stainless steel, with a mechanical self-winding movement.

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Monogram in steel and 18k gold with diamonds on the dial.

Spring/Summer 2014

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20.05.14 15:11

CHANEL - Technical treasures Combining high watchmaking with haute couture

by Carol Besler

The Chanel 1932 high jewelry watch, with a total of 3.4 carats of black and white diamonds, in a ribbon motif.

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s one of the world’s most recognizable brands, especially in the world of haute couture, it is no surprise that as a watchmaker Chanel has also made a name for itself as a master of haute horology. The company has achieved this by adhering to the same standards that dictate haute couture: to be made from the highest quality materials, with extreme attention to detail, finish and hand craftsmanship.

Chanel’s movements are made exclusively for the brand by Renaud & Papi, one of Switzerland’s most prestigious movement developers. The watches are assembled at G&F Chatelain, a Swiss manufacture that Chanel acquired in 1993

allowing it to completely control the production process and the technology.

The watchmakers, assemblers, gemsetters, and quality control specialists are all employed by Chanel. Everything is made from the ground up: Chanel is the only watch manufacturer in Switzerland that mixes its own ceramic directly from the powder, and in fact makes cases for other top brands.

Chanel takes as much pride in its fashion roots as it does in its watchmaking capabilities, something that gives it an

Models at Chanel’s recent Fall/Winter Ready-to-Wear show wore the new Premiére Triple Row timepiece.

The Chanel Premiére Triple Row, with a triple row steel chain bracelet interwoven with black leather, a tribute to the brand’s famous handbags. It has a black lacquered dial and an onyx cabochon crown.

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Technical treasures

The Chanel J12 Flying Tourbillon, a five-piece limited edition, fully set with baguette and round diamonds and a tourbillon movement with starshaped carriage.

edge over other elite watch brands. The new Premiére timepiece, launched at this year’s Baselworld fair, is a perfect example of this brand strength. It pays homage to one of Chanel’s most iconic accessories – the handbag with a chain-link strap. The bracelet of the timepiece is made of intertwined leather and steel links. The watch was featured on the runway of Chanel’s Fall/Winter Ready-to-wear shows this spring. The black lacquered dial is the definition of chic minimalism. There is also a gold version, without the leather element in the link bracelet.

The Premiére has a long history at Chanel. It was the first watch created exclusively for women, back in 1987, with a case inspired by the octagonal shape of the Chanel No. 5 bottle stopper. In 2012, the Premiére Camelia was introduced, with a flying tourbillon caliber made by Renaud et Papi, transforming the model into a showcase for high watchmaking. A new tourbillon model introduced this year is 40

Spring/Summer 2014

Chanel J12 Blue Light, in high tech white ceramic with luminescent blue numerals.

It contains a self-winding movement and is water resistant to 200 meters.

set with 42 baguette diamonds on the bezel, 47 baguette cut pink sapphires on the case side, baguette cut pink sapphires on the crown, and round diamonds on both the hands and tourbillon cage. The dial is high-tech ceramic.

The brand’s most iconic timepiece, the J12, was introduced this year in a stunning all-white version with light blue numerals and hand tips, one of the most feminine variations on this multi-version model. There is also a new “beige gold” application on the J12, a special alloy of gold that matches a color used throughout the brand’s fashion and accessory collections, including a beige face powder, as well as one of the colors in its iconic tweed jackets. The J12 was also introduced in

The Chanel J12 Chromatic, combining its titanium/ceramic alloy with a new gold alloy called beige gold on the bezel and crown.

several dazzling jewelry versions, including a steel and diamond version with a ceramic bracelet, as well as a high jewelry tourbillon.

In fact, high jewelry watches were the main item on the menu at the Chanel booth this year in Basel, with several spectacular new pieces on display, many with bows and feathers, representing the codes of Chanel couture. They were a bright spot in the halls of Baselworld that are usually dominated by mens watches.

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Ralph Lauren On Time

Every detail of the Ralph Lauren timepiece collection was meticulously developed by the designer himself to express the design codes and the passion for traditional craftsmanship that define understated luxury. When the collection was introduced, Johann Rupert, executive chairman of the Richemont Group, announced, “This is not a fashion label; this is a serious watch,” adding, “Ralph Lauren is a perfectionist, a creator.”

Ralph Lauren Stirrup Petite-Link Steel with a snow-set diamond case

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“I love designing watches,” says Ralph Lauren. “I love the longevity … it’s something that marks time, that you keep.”

W

hat happens when a fashion icon teams up with the world’s most elite watchmaking company? Something timeless.

Fashion world icon Ralph Lauren took the watch world by storm when he introduced a full watch collection under his name in 2009, in partnership with the Richemont Group. Since then, the collection has established a large following.

The Stirrup collection in particular has become iconic, and perfectly illustrates Ralph Lauren’s commitment to ensuring the style of his watches is consistent with that of the larger brand. With the Stirrup, Lauren has deftly translated the adventure of the equestrian lifestyle – a strong motif in his fashion empire – into a timepiece collection.

The stirrup shape of the case, along with the stirrup-shaped buckle and straps, resemble the contour of a saddle.

After the major success of the Stirrup, the company followed up with the Stirrup Petite-Link models. Introduced early this year, the Petite-Link is ultra-feminine, with interconnected bracelet links in a size that is smaller than the original Stirrup Link. It measures at a mere 23.30mm by 27mm size. The collection includes Stirrup Petite-Link Steel options available with a white or mother-ofpearl dial, snow-set diamond case as well as Petite-Link rose gold models with a black or white dial. The diamond pavé version conveys a sense of classic elegance and elevates the brand to the realm of high jewelry.

I love horses, and I love riding, and I always felt that was an inspiration for me,” says Ralph Lauren. “The Stirrup watch felt like a natural motif representing the whole equestrian world. It’s an important message.”

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Stirrup Petite Diamond Link, white gold, with diamonds set into the case, bezel and bracelet

The Ralph Lauren 45mm Black Safari Flying Tourbillon with a shot-blasted stainless steel case with a black finishing, giving the watch a vintage look

The Sporting collection also reflects a Ralph Lauren lifestyle message, in this case the spirit of sportsmanship and the sense of old-world adventure associated with activities such as African safaris and antique car rallies. The new 39mm Safari RL67 Chronometer, for example, possesses a uniquely vintage look, and features an aged black stainless steel case with rugged finish, complemented by an olive green weathered canvas strap. The dial is equally distinct, with its cream-colored Arabic numerals, orange seconds hand and oversized 6 and 12 hour markers.

Also new this year in the Sporting collection is the 45mm Black Safari Flying Tourbillon, juxtaposing a sporting silhouette with an example of ultimate luxury in watchmaking. The flying tourbillon escapement, located at 6 o’clock on the dial, is fitted with a small seconds. The case is made of shot-blasted stainless steel with a black finishing, which gives the watch an aged patinated look. It also features a black matte galvanic center dial with brown elm burl wood at the outer dial.

“The watches I’ve been drawn to represent a passion for design and a respect for tradition and craftsmanship. A watch also represents something personal.

It reflects your individuality and taste – from its functionality to its aesthetic.”

- Ralph Lauren

Masters of time

the master jeweler is also forging a reputation as a master watchmaker with in-house movements

by Carol Besler

The Bulgari Octo 38 is an example of the current trend in two-tone watches.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is the world’s thinnest tourbillon movement.

B

ulgari’s watchmaking division is well on is way to establishing the Bulgari brand as a maker of timepieces that are as iconic and well crafted as its famous jew-

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elry. This year, the company introduced new calibers and continued to consolidate its reputation as a manufacture, with many of its watches now containing inhouse movements, a mark of distinction.

The Bulgari Octo Velocissimo is a new, high-frequency chronograph caliber.

The piece that has everyone talking this year is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, which is being touted as the world’s thinnest tourbillon, at just 5.00mm thick. It contains a manual wound caliber that measures just 1.95mm thick.

This feat is achieved by several technical innovations, including the absence of an upper bridge, a redesigned barrel cage and caseback screws that were redesigned to be shorter. The case is platinum, as befits a timepiece that constitutes an important introduction.

Also new in the Octo line is a chronograph movement, the Velocissimo, a high-frequency automatic caliber (36,000 VpH), equipped with a column wheel and silicon escapement, with a 50-hour power reserve. The movement is cased in either 18k pink gold or steel, with a rich, black lacquered dial.

Bulgari is becoming known for its chiming watches, and collectors will take note this year of the Ammiraglio del Tempo (Admiral of Time), a Westminster chime minute repeater with four hammers and four gongs. An homage to marine chronometers, the movement is distinguished by a detent escapement designed for high accuracy, including a constant-force device to regulate the energy supplied by the barrel to the balance. An intriguing feature of this high complication is that one of the lugs serves as the activating slide for the minute repeater, a first in watchmaking.

Bulgari also demonstrates its expertise in the decorative arts or metiers of watchmaking this year with the Giardino Marino, a tourbillon (Caliber BVL 263). The remarkable dial features inset mother-of-pearl, coral, turquoise and diamonds against a background of dark blue lacquer. The bezel is set with 36 diamonds totaling 2.88 carats. The watch is platinum, with a 22k gold rotor, and will be produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces.

Another tourbillon with hour retrograde, this one designed exclusively for ladies, is the Berries Tourbillon Emeralds, with a flourish of seven emeralds set within more than three carats of diamonds in a swirl that surrounds the tourbillon cage. The rest of the dial is composed of mother-of-pearl marquetry. The crown is also set with an emerald. There is also a ruby version of this watch, which contains a Bulgari-manufactured automatic movement. It is a limited edition of 25 pieces each.

The new star of Bulgari’s full ladies’ collections is the Lucea, a tribute to the sundial. Light (or luce in Italian) is the essence of the sundial, Spring/Summer 2014

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The Lucea is Bulgari’s new ladies’ collection, a tribute to the sundial.

The Bulgari Berries Tourbillon with emeralds.

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The crown of the Lucea is a cabochon gem centered by a diamond.

The Bulgari Berries Tourbillon with rubies.

The Bulgari Giardino Marino tourbillon with decorative dial.

and is represented here by the light return from 12 diamonds on the dial and, on the model shown here by the luminous glow of mother-of-pearl. The architectural bracelet is made with hinged links for a coiled effect reminiscent of the brand’s famous Serpenti line. The crown is a cabochon cut gem, centered by a diamond. This is a full collection, with several dial, metal and gem options, containing the self-winding Caliber B77.

The 28mm version has a quartz movement.

Rounding out the impressive offering of ladies’ watches this year is a new version of the Catene, introduced last year, with a vibrant carnelian dial. These ladies’ watches represent the brand’s heritage as a jeweler, with gems, enameling and craftsmanship that attest to its legacy as a maker of some of the world’s most famous jewels.

The Bulgari Bulgari Catene, 18k pink gold, with coral on some of the bracelet links and a cornelian dial.

The movement is quartz.

The chime on the Ammiraglio del Tempo (Admiral of Time) is activated by one of the lugs.

Masters of time Spring/Summer 2014

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modern touch

's

The indexes of the Movado Sapphire are set with diamonds, as are the lugs on some models.

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Two new collections express the dynamism of this thoroughly modern watch brand

W

hile many watch companies today emphasize their heritage through traditional design codes, Movado stands apart as a brand that is all about modernism. In 1947, artist Nathan George Horwitt created the now famous museum dial with the signature dot at 12 o’clock, and it established a distinctive, modernist design code by which the brand continues to be inspired.

For 2014, Movado introduces two notable lines, one for men and one for women. Gravity, for men, is a new take on the brand’s already contemporary design codes, infused with a bold, creative spirit. This men’s timepiece interprets Movado’s modern design aesthetic with edgy, innovative sophistication.

Gravity’s round 42mm case, with sculpted extended lugs, is made of polished black PVD-finished stainless steel. Viewed in profile, the 8mm thick case reveals a layer of carbon fiber sandwiched between the glossy black PVD surface and the case back.

A flat, anti-reflective sapphire crystal makes it easy to appreciate the distinctive shiny black carbon fiber dial and its brightly polished details, including a black minute reflector ring and silver toned dauphine hands, applied domed bar indexes and the brand’s signature dot at 12 o’clock.

The bi-level black rubber strap joins the case in a fluid, fully integrated design.

The Movado Gravity is made of polished black PVD-finished stainless steel.

The strap’s raised and lightly textured middle section rises to meet the curved edge of the bezel, while its smooth outer edges flow down and under the lugs. Sportive and supple, it conforms comfortably to the wrist, and is secured with a pushbutton deployment clasp. It is water resistant to 30 meters, and contains a Swiss quartz movement.

Movado’s new women's timepiece,

the Sapphire, is classically styled with an angular tone resulting from a striking bracelet that is beveled and reflects the light from many angles. The uniquely pyramid-shaped links are joined by a center row of flat vertical links, and a butterfly deployment clasp fastens the bracelet seamlessly and securely to the wrist.

Another distinctive feature is a flat Spring/Summer 2014

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I

The Movado Sapphire has a striking bracelet with beveled, pyramid shaped links.

sapphire crystal that flows seamlessly to the edge of the round, bezel-free case. For 2014, this sophisticated collection captures the essence of Movado’s modern design aesthetic.

The elegantly feminine case is only 28mm wide, and comes in two materials. One is brushed and polished solid stainless steel, styled with a silver-toned mirror-finish dial defined by Movado’s 52

Spring/Summer 2014

signature concave dot at 12 o’clock, 11 diamond markers and silver-toned dauphine hands. It is available with a sparkling of diamonds accenting the first vertical link on the north and south ends of the case.

The second version is yellow goldplated stainless steel with a brushed and polished finish. Mirror bright, the complimentary gold-toned dial is detailed by a matching signature concave dot at

12 o’clock, 11 diamond hour markers and gold-toned dauphine hands. They both contain Swiss quartz movements and are water resistant to 30 meters.

Both new collections, the Gravity and the Sapphire, epitomize the Movado signature look, as well as the progressive design and engineering that define the brand today.

8

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Museum Watch

Ansel Adams, The Tetons and the Snake River, Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming, negative 1942; print 1980, gelatin silver print. The J. Paul Getty Museum, gift of Carol Vernon and Robert Turbin in memory of Marjorie and Leonard Vernon. Š 2014 The Ansel Adams Publishing Rights Trust

In Focus: Ansel Adams

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Witness: Art and Civil Rights in the '60s

J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles through July 20

Brooklyn Museum through July 6

Prints from the final years of Adams' life, entitled Museum Set Edition of Fine Prints and recently acquired by the museum, are presented along with earlier ones to show how the great photographer's printing style changed over the course of his career.

Examining the period of dramatic social and cultural upheaval that was the '60s, this collection offers a focused look at the art from 66 of the decade's artists and how they used diverse aesthetic approaches to address the struggle for racial justice.

MATISSE FROM SFMOMA

Now You See It

Legion of Honor, San Francisco through September 7

Museum of Metropolitan Art, New York through September 1

Currently closed for renovations, San Francisco MOMA presents this exhibition of 23 paintings, drawings, and bronzes by the French master at a neighboring museum.

Subtitled "Photography and Concealment," this exhibition explores the tension between publicity and privacy, the revealed and the hidden, in works of contemporary photography.

Spring/Summer 2014

Jasper Johns, Study for Regrets, 2012, Acrylic, photocopy collage, colored pencil, ink and watercolor on paper, 11 3/8 × 17 3/4 in. © Jasper Johns/Licensed by VAGA, New York, NY. Photograph: Jerry Thompson

JASPER JOHNS: REGRETS

Museum of Modern Art, New York through September 1 The premiere of Jasper Johns' latest work, this exhibition of two paintings, ten drawing, and two prints were inspired by Johns coming across an old, worn photo of artist Lucian Freud captured in a state of despair.

The World Is an Apple: The Still Lifes of Paul Cézanne Barnes Foundation, Philadelphia June 22 through September 22

This carefully curated survey of Cézanne's still-life painting, tracing his work from early paintings that reference older works to later works that fully demonstrate his unique sensibility, shows how the artist refocused the genre and set it on a new course.

Quilts and Color: The Pilgrim/Roy Collection

Museum of Fine Art, Boston through July 27 Paul Cézanne, Still Life with Apples and a Glass of Wine,1877-79, oil on canvas, 10 1/2 x 12 7/8 in. Philadelphia Museum of Art: The Louise and Walter Arensberg Collection, 1950

This collection of 60 quilts by artists Paul Pilgrim and Gerald Roy celebrates their vibrant colors and inventive designs and shows how their work echoes mid-20th century abstract expressionism and op art.

Spring/Summer 2014

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Through the Window Andrew Wyeth’s Fascination with Windows and the Views They Frame is the Focus of an Exhibition at the National Gallery of Art

Andrew Wyeth, Wind from the Sea, 1947, tempera on hardboard, overall: 18 1/2 x 27 9/16 in, framed: 26 1/8 x 35 1/4 x 2 3/4 in. © Andrew Wyeth. National Gallery of Art, Washington, Gift of Charles H. Morgan

D

eceptively realistic, Andrew Wyeth’s window paintings and works on paper are skillfully manipulated constructions.

They are brought together for the first time in the exhibition “Andrew Wyeth: Looking Out, Looking In” at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, its sole venue. This exclusive collection of nearly sixty tempura paintings, watercolors, and drawings were chosen from the more than 250 window-related compositions that the artist produced.

The exhibition itself was inspired by Wyeth’s gift to the National Gallery of Art of his paint-

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ing Wind from the Sea (1947), one of his most significant works. This served as a starting point for organizing a series that focused on his fascination with windows.

Born in Chadds Ford, Pennsylvania, Wyeth was 15 when he began training as an artist in the studio of his famous father, N.C. Wyeth. Five years later, his first one-man exhibition at Macbeth Gallery in New York sold out in two days. During a career that spanned more than seven decades, Wyeth produced a large and compelling body of work that included one of the most famous paintings in

20th-century American art, Christina’s World (1948), which is now part of the collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. In 1963, Wyeth became the first artist to receive the Presidential Medal of Freedom. He also received the Congressional Gold Medal in 1988 and the National Medal of Arts in 2007.

Wyeth was working in the Olson House in Maine that appears in his renowned painting, Christina’s World, when an ocean breeze lifted curtains near an open window. He made a quick sketch and within a few weeks Wind from the Sea was complete. Wyeth described

Andrew Wyeth, Spring Fed, 1967, tempera on masonite, overall: 27 1/2 x 39 1/2 in. © Andrew Wyeth. Collection of Bill and Robin Weiss

the moment like this: “That summer in 1947 I was in one of the attic rooms feeling the dryness of everything and it was so hot I pried open a window. A west wind filled the dusty, frayed lace curtains and the delicate crocheted birds began to flutter and fly. My whole idea is to keep myself open for the elusive something that might catch me off balance when I least expect it. I drew a very quick sketch and had to wait for weeks for another west wind for more studies.”

Over the course of many decades, Wyeth studied neighboring buildings and his own

studios in both Chadds Ford, and in Cushing, Maine, as subjects for his investigation of windows. He explored windows utilizing multiple visual devices, such as vantage points (far, near, inside, outside, ground level, upstairs), curtains (still and flowing), reflections, landscapes seen through windows, and even windows seen through windows.

The exhibition is organized into thematic sections that group related preliminary drawings and watercolors with final tempera paintings, offering the clearest understanding of Wyeth’s creative process. Spare, elegant, and

abstract, these paintings are free of the narrative associated with the artist’s better known figural compositions. They are grouped in suites incorporating related works exploring the disciplined process of reduction and simplification that Wyeth consistently used in creating his window paintings. The resulting images are often rigorous in their formal construction but deeply personal in subject.

In addition to never-before-seen works, the exhibition will include several familiar ones that address the subject of windows.

From Spring Fed (1967), linked to the tragic

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Andrew Wyeth, Off at Sea, 1972, tempera on panel, overall: 33 3/4 x 33 1/2 in. Š Andrew Wyeth. Private Collection

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Andrew Wyeth, Evening at Kuerners, 1970, dry brush, 25 1/2 x 39 3/4 in. © Andrew Wyeth. Private Collection

death of his father, N. C. Wyeth, and the interior view in Rod and Reel (1975), to the austere and mathematically precise Off at Sea (1972) and the very spare Evening at Kuerners (1970), these paintings and works on paper represent a significant but little explored aspect of Wyeth’s achievement.

National Gallery of Art director Earl A. Powell III believes the exhibition will change the way the artist’s oeuvre is viewed. “In these spare, elegant, and abstract window paintings and works on paper, Wyeth tackled the complexities presented by the subject throughout his career,” he said, “We hope that this exploration both on the walls and in the catalogue will encourage a much closer look at Wyeth’s work and contribute to the reassessment of his achievement that is well underway.”

“Andrew Wyeth: Looking Out, Looking In” is on view at the National Gallery of Art through November 30th.

Andrew Wyeth, The Pikes, 1965, watercolor on paper, overall: 28 x 19 in, framed: 36 1/4 x 26 3/4 in. © Andrew Wyeth. The San Diego Museum of Art, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Norton S. Walbridge

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Time for Tradition Eberhard & Co. pays tribute to its roots as a high-precision watchmaker

T

he Swiss Maison celebrates its heritage this year with products that pay homage to its past and its founder. George Eberhard was born into a watchmaking family in SaintImier, Switzerland in 1865, and founded his own manufacture in the Swiss town of La Chaux-de-Fonds at the age of 22.

He quickly became known as a maker of high-precision pocket watches, and by the early 1900s the company was specializing in chronometers and chronographs, something for which it is still known today.

In 1919, the founder’s sons Georges and Maurice took charge

of the most representative collections of the Maison and won the heart of fans and connoisseurs. By the 1960s, the company was producing high-frequency escapements, beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour for ultimate precision.

Like most watch brands, Eberhard & Co. began producing watches containing quartz technology at the beginning of the 1970s, supplementing its mechanical watch collections. In this way the Maison faced the quartz challenge, following the new trends and ensuring the continuity of its history. In 1982 Eberhard & Co. re-launched the mechanical chronograph with Replica Marine, and in 1987 celebrated its centenary with the Navymaster collection.

In the 1990s, after the presentation of the Tazio Nuvolari chronograph, created in honor of the greatest car racing legend of all times, the brand’s production was oriented towards large-sized wristwatches such as the Traversetolo, with its 43mm diameter, helping to set a trend that still continues today. In 1992 a new milestone was established: 8 Jours, with a powerreserve of 8 days thanks to an exclusive

The Eberhard & Co. Extra-fort is one of the brand’s best sellers.

of the company, and by the 1930s began making chronographs for officers of the Italian Royal Navy. In the 1940s, the company introduced its iconic model, the Extra-fort, with its signature sliding pushbutton to measure intermediate times. In the 1950s the Extra-fort line began one 60

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The Eberhard & Co. Gilda is distinguished by its elliptical case.

patented device, consisting of two overlapping springs which are more than one meter and a half long.

Today’s most iconic collection is the Chrono 4. Introduced in 2001, it is the first and only chronograph in the history of watchmaking with four counters arranged in one row thanks to the special module developed and patented by Eberhard & Co. The Chrono 4 is on an ETA 2894-2 base (Caliber EB 200 12/12). Its functions include hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24-hour display, chronograph and tachymeter. The complete mechanism works on 53 rubies. Chrono 4, which is patented, revolutionized the reading of time and it was a real innovation, both aesthetically and functionally.

This best-selling collection, which in 2010 celebrated its 10th anniversary, has been reinterpreted over the years through the Grande Taille Version, the Chrono 4 Géant and the all-black Full Injection model.

2012 is the year of another important anniversary: the 125 years of the Maison, celebrated with the Extra-fort Roue à Colonnes Grande Date 125th Anniversaire.

This year, the brand introduced five new models at Baselworld in March. The introduction included a new model of its

The Eberhard & Co. Traversetolo is the brand’s large sized watch, originally launched in the 1990s.

8 Jours Grande Taille

The new Contograf pays tribute to a model of the same name that was introduced in the 1960s.

The Eberhard & Co. Chrono 4 is the first and only chronograph in the history of watchmaking with four counters arranged in one row.

iconic Chrono 4 collection proposed in three new dial versions. The Chrono 4 collection is the brand’s signature unique design, with chronograph counters lined up along the same horizontal axis. In particular, the all-black version features the silver-toned rings around the black counters, silvered Arabic numerals and tipped hands. The chronograph sweep seconds hand and the 24-hour counter are dramatically red, in contrast to the black and white composition. It is water-resistant to 50 meters. The restyling gives this revolutionary chronograph an even more sporting feel.

Also new is the Extra-fort “Ardisco non Ordisco,” one of the best-sellers of the brand, with a model that honors one of the greatest interpreters of nine-

teenth-century Italian literature: Gabriele D’Annunzio.

The new Contograf pays tribute to a model of the same name that was introduced in the 1960s, a precision, twocounter chronograph with a date window at 6 o’clock. It featured a fast-changing date, which was revolutionary at the time.

The minute counter is uniquely divided into three minutes, originally designed to measure the duration of a telephone call.

The ceramic bezel with unidirectional rotation is new with palladium treated numbers, as is the patented deployment clasp Déclic and the Chassis® steel bracelet. It is engraved on the caseback with “Tribute to Contograf – 1960s.”

Also in the novelty category is the Traversetolo, the brand’s large sized watch

coupled with a manually wound mechanical movement originally launched in the 1950s which has been perfected over the years. Available also in the Vitré version, it has hours and minutes on the central dial and a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock with a snailed finish.

Rounding out the new introductions is one for ladies, Gilda, with a feminine, elliptical case set with blue sapphires on the bezel and dial. The case is in white gold and the movement is quartz. The strap is white alligator with blue stitching and the dial is decorated with a subtle floral pattern. Gilda is also available on a tailor-made bracelet studded with 12 diamonds and 380 blue sapphires; a cascade of precious stones embracing the feminine wrist.

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Sands Shaped by Time Story and Photos by Keiko Makishima

An exploration of New Mexico’s White Sands National Monument Visitor’s trail of footprints in the dunes

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s we headed East on Route 70, the arid New Mexican landscape gave no hint of the natural wonder it housed.

We passed miles and miles of indistinguishable desert and rock before making our detour to White Sands National Monument. The monument’s narrow access road is marked only by a small Spanish-style adobe brick visitor center.

As you make your way down Dune Drive for a few miles, the earthy terrain gradually gives way to blankets of white, peppered with vegetation.

The road begins to curve, the pavement disappears, and finally, the true beauty of the place is revealed. Walls of white sand encase the road and miles of bright dunes surround you on all sides.

Over 250 million years ago, the dune field was an inland ocean.

Over time, the ocean dried up, leaving calcium and sulfur deposits in its wake.

The dunes are demarcated by signs leading to trails, camp sites, and areas where visitors can freely wander. We saw many families who had brought sleds and picnic baskets to the monument. They wrote messages in the sand to commemorate their visit. As they explored, they left trails of footprints behind, which were later swept away by the wind. We opted to hike further into the dune field, entranced by the elegance of our otherworldly surroundings. Upon closer inspection we noticed that the sands were

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decorated with delicate lines, raked by wind into unique and uniform patterns, like a vast Zen garden.

The landscape is distinct because the sand is made up of gypsum crystals. Gypsum sand is softer than the more common quartz sand; it dissolves in water and it is translucent, which is what gives it the unique white appearance. White Sands is the largest natural gypsum dune field in the world. Over 250 million years ago, the dune field was an inland ocean. Over

View of dune field

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time, the ocean dried up, leaving calcium and sulfur deposits in its wake.

These minerals formed gypsum rock and in the centuries that followed, the earth shifted, forming the Tularosa Basin. Rains and wind broke the gypsum rock down into fine sand. Today, what was once an ocean is now a 275 square mile expanse of ever-changing sand dunes.

The dune environment is as beautiful as it is extreme. White Sands gets very little rainfall, and during

the summer months the temperature can exceed 100 degrees. Many plants have trouble surviving the harsh climate, and get buried by the blowing sand. Despite this severity, over 250 plant varieties and 400 different species of animals live in the dunes. They have adapted to survive these harsh conditions over time. Many animals have turned white to camouflage their bodies, others burrow under the sand to remain undetected and escape the heat. Plants such as the soaptree yucca

have adapted to grow taller stems and deeper roots in order to combat the blowing sand. These adaptations make the plants and animals completely distinct and exciting to observe.

The White Sands National Monument evokes a sense of wonder in all who visit there. It is a humbling place, serene but full of life. For some it is an enormous sandbox to play in, for others it is a meditative space. The monument serves as a constant reminder of how awe-inspiring nature can be, and how transformative time is. Tucked away in the desert of Southern New Mexico is a world unto itself, waiting to be explored.

Soaptree Yucca

Transverse dune

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Variety of desert plants

Sands Shaped by Time Sam and I explore the dunes

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Each watch is covered by a 24-month unconditional warranty that covers everything, including batteries, bands and crystals. “If it breaks, we fix it, period,” says Reactor founder and president Jimmy Olmes. “We do not charge a service fee, which is unique in the industry.” Also unique is the time it takes to service a Reactor watch.

“Turnaround time is 48 hours, not 48 days like some brands,” says Olmes.

“Our mission is to design and manufacture the best performance sports watch on the market, at a very affordable price point,” says Olmes. All cases and bracelets are either solid 316L surgical grade stainless steel or solid titanium. Casebacks are solid forged to eliminate any flexibility, making battery changes simple and secure. They are guaranteed to be water resistant to 100 meters.

All Reactor watches have screw-down crowns and double O rings in the crown tubes to help

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An exploded view of the Gryphon, showing the components.

The Reactor Gryphon

Reactor's Never Dark technology combines Super-LumiNova with tritium tubes. This shows the dial after one minute in the dark.

reduce accidental flooding. “We double water-test every watch,” says Olmes.

“Once, with the crown screwed down to the depth rating of the watch and then to 100 meters with the crown unscrewed.”

The crystals covering the dial are made of a highly impact and scratch resistant K1 hardened high-tech ceramic glass from Japan.

Reactor has also developed a special application of Swiss Super-LumiNova on every watch, which gives it one of the most highly visible dials of any sports watch on the market. A Swiss testing laboratory has confirmed that many of Reactor’s dials are visible for up to 24 hours in the dark. This claim has been supported by several Swiss watch magazines. Reactor’s patented dial technology, called Never Dark, combines a special application of Super-LumiNova and tritium tubes. This combination uses the best attributes of both materials – the intensity of Super-LumiNova for the short term and tritium tubes for the long term. Fully charged, Super-LumiNova is ten-times brighter than tritium tubes, allowing for easy visibility when going from light to dark conditions. In situations where the watch will remain in the dark

Reactor's Never Dark technology combines Super-LumiNova with tritium tubes. This shows the dial after 25 minutes in the dark.

for many hours, the tritium will remain visible for years, even if the watch is never returned to the light.

Even the point of attachment between case and bracelet is given special attention.

Instead of spring bars, all Reactor watches employ solid screw bars at the interface between cases and bracelets, which Olmes says are a minimum of five-times stronger than the best spring bars on the market.

Fit is also important. Reactor uses a freefloating lug design that allows its oversized watches to fit the wrist amazingly well.

This allows a small-boned person to wear a 45mm or even a 50mm watch comfortably. Each bracelet has three points of closure, including a double side release and a safety gate. Reactor has even developed a nylon and proprietary silicon co-molded band that is virtually unbreakable.

One of Reactor’s star models, the Gryphon, is constructed unlike any watch on the market, according to Olmes. Developed for the military, it is a watch inside of a watch, with a stainless steel core covered by a fiberglass reinforced ballistic plastic outer case. “The advantage of this construction is that we have all the integrity of a stainless steel watch and the high

Reactor's Never Dark technology combines Super-LumiNova with tritium tubes. This shows the dial after 120 minutes in the dark.

shock absorption of the ballistic plastic covering,” he says.

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Reactor founder and president Jimmy Olmes

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The Cold Rush Article and Photography by Denis L. Tanney, Automotive Editor

Sailors prepare their DN's (Detroit News) for the day on Mecox Bay, near Southampton, NY.

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couple of years ago I ran into an old friend of mine, Dick Fritz, at a car concours and he suggested that I try Scootering. What is that I asked? We sat at a nearby table and as he explained it to me he took out a pen and drew several rough sketches on a napkin. Now, in order to tell you the story, and for you to appreciate my experiences, I need to explain Scootering and a very short bit of its history.

Before I start however, I will tell you that Scootering requires three major things: weather cold enough to freeze

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quite a few inches of ice on a body of water, a special sail boat and some wind.

Last year we had wind but the weather was not cold enough to make ice – so all my hopes were dashed for my first adventure.

This year was a different story altogether.

With constant temperatures hovering below 10 degrees for days on end, ice was abundant from near the tip of Long Island up through northern New York State in the Adirondack Mountains and just about all places in between.

The scooters can sail over all kinds of ice and skim the water where the ice may

be a bit softer – some at astonishingly high speeds. This sport has been around since approximately 1870 and basically these boats haven’t changed a whole heck of a lot since then. Sure there have been modern refinements, but the basics remain and that’s what makes them unique. The Long Island Scooter, it is claimed, was an invention based on necessity. One of the first clubs to organize was The Great South Bay Scooter Club in Bellport, Long Island in 1904. The sport became incredibly popular and spread from frozen bays out on the end of Long Island, New York to south Jer-

sey and even as far west as Wisconsin and Michigan. It is a sport that intoxicates everyone who gets indoctrinated into it. The daring younger folk tend to venture out when the ice is only a few inches thick, while the more seasoned folk tend to wait until the ice is a good 6” or thicker. But, let’s not think that the ice is akin to a well prepared hockey rink, meaning smooth as silk. No way! Sometimes the smaller lakes will make for wonderfully smooth sailing, but larger lakes and especially the bays can become bumpy or rough. Sometimes the combination of tidal action and

grip the ice so that walking on ice is not so treacherous. They wear warm thermal clothing inside and out, as well as thick gloves, a warm hat and a muffler to keep the freezing cold wind off their necks at speed. Many wear helmets to protect their heads, just in case. The point is that this is not warm weather sailing! This is cold weather hauling! There are a few sizes for these boats. The general rule of thumb is that these scooters are between 13 feet and 18 feet in length. Their width or the beam is roughly 5’2”. These scooters carry one to four people. Usually two crew members

Peter Zendt with his Harlis Scooter on the frozen Mecox Bay, near Southampton, New York

strong winds will cause the ice to freeze with hard pressure ridges, known as hummocks in the ice. A boat could be sailing at 20 or 30 mph and run over such a ridge resulting in the boat bouncing into the air and slamming back down – not exactly a comfortable ride for the crew. Most of the boats are wooden and one sits on the gunnels with no padding, so a good hummock can actually break your tail bone if you are not prepared. Hey, no one said this is a luxury boat sport. The sailors are well prepared. They wear long underwear, as the temps are usually no higher than 15 or so degrees with winds up to 17 mph, and boots that have bottoms that

do the steering and work the sails. Fritz lives way up near the very northern end of the New York Adirondack Mountains, so he suggested I contact a more local old timer in the sport to get me started. Peter Zendt, a Long Islander and a seasoned pro was just the man to contact. Extremely friendly and helpful, he set the wheels in motion and my wife and I drove out to the great Mecox Bay in Southampton, NY to meet one Saturday morning in late February. The weather was perfect. The sun was shining bright, the temperature was not too cold and there was a light breeze in the air. We arrived early enough to witness dozens of sailors rigging their crafts

for a day of scootering on the bay. We were introduced to a smaller class of boat called the DNs, or Detroit News. This is a triangular shaped vessel that carries a single passenger and the boat is made of fiberglass or other lightweight materials including wood. These smaller oneman boats are called DN's because the Detroit News sponsored them way back when. They can fly in a good wind and move along well in a slight breeze called a “Puff”.

We put our boots on, our special waterproof over-pants to keep us dry and warm, gloves and a hat and ventured out onto the ice. Peter met us and introduced us around to just about everyone it seemed. He was like the mayor of the scene and we were his visiting dignitaries.

We felt very much at ease and thrilled to see all these scooters and DNs. I began snapping photos right away. I photographed the crews rigging their boats and the many kids ice skating around them. On this day, the ice on the bay was as smooth as glass and it was perfect for ice skating. It seemed that everything was so good except that we had almost no wind at all. We walked and talked and waited for what seemed like hours, but only the DNs went out and got a little speed, but not much. We met a large group of regulars who explained some of the history and described the differences in the boats we saw. We even met a 13 year old boy who was going to Spain to compete in solo ice racing. Interestingly enough, there were more dogs and children on the ice than adults. The boats were all ready to sail, but no one was going anywhere without a little wind. Peter showed me the ins and outs of his boat including the runners on the bottom. So, the day was spent talking, and taking pictures, meeting new friends and learning as Spring/Summer 2014

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Two sailors admiring one of the very modern versions of the DN boat style. No wood, but ultramodern materials for safety and weight concerns. These boats are rare as the older wooden models are the boats that command the highest respect and are the challenges that most ice sailors tend to favor.

The bottom of the Harlis Scooters looks like this.

much about this intriguing sport as possible. But the excitement of being able to actually go out for a ride on a scooter was not to be. We returned home wondering how I could write this story if I never got a chance to go for a real ride. My luck was about to change.

A call to my original mentor Dick Fritz, turned into an open invitation midweek to sail with him a couple of weeks later on Lake Champlain in upper New York State. It was early March and this would be my last chance to get a ride as my car racing schedule was such that I had Amelia Island Concours coming up fast and then the 12 hrs. of Sebring, so time was of the essence. I took advantage of the invite and drove myself up to Westport, New York where Fritz graciously opened his wonderfully rustic ranch home up to me overnight. Early the next morning, as I strolled into the kitchen, a hot breakfast 72

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was being prepared and I was told that we needed to eat well as the energy I would expend out on the lake in the cold would require it. The temperature overnight dropped down to about 8 below zero and at 8 am it had come up to around 0 degrees. The national weather station stated that we could only expect the temps to rise to around 10-13 degrees by late morning.

The winds would be between 15-18 mph.

It was a clear day – perfecto for ice sailing I was told. After a hearty meal, Dick and I prepared ourselves for the cold and ventured out to the boat landing where he had left his boat overnight. His property abuts Lake Champlain, but we needed to go a mile or so down the road to a boat launch area. Upon arrival, he introduced me to his friend who would be the other crew member and they both began setting the boat up for a day of adventure. I took photos of them working, and then when

called I changed lenses and took the big step for my first ride. Dick had told me that I had better not try to carry two cameras, as I usually do, because I would be holding on for dear life at times and no way would I be able to handle two cameras. I had no idea how right he was until some 30 minutes later. After demonstrating where to sit, and how to place my buns on the wooden gunnel, I thought I had it together and was ready to sail. We walked the boat out from the cove. I took my position mid ship, with Dick up in the bow controlling the smaller jib and his buddy sitting in the stern controlling the lines and the larger sail. As I began snapping photos as fast as my motor drive allowed, Dick yelled back at me, “Hold on Denis we are about to go�. The acceleration was as instant as any I have ever felt.

With little to no time lag, we were zooming at a speed I could not believe.

The 50 foot long Jack Frost is one of a rare breed called The Hudson River Stern Steerer boat. There are only two in existence today and this is one of them. The other is named The Rocket, and they met for the first time in over a hundred years on this day to sail. They are huge boats that can attain speed in excess of 60 mph with strong winds.

One has to understand that you are sitting only a few inches off the ice in this wooden boat whose design dates back over 120 years. You feel as though you are moving at a rate of 55-65 mph. In actuality, we were doing maybe 35 mph, but there is nothing to relate this to. We were the only ones on the lake for miles and the shoreline kept getting further and further away as we sped along. No other boats to see, no other humans, or animals for that matter, just us zooming along at a speed which became a bit disconcerting to me.

I tried desperately to take photos with one hand as my other hand was locked onto the underneath edge of the gunnels.

I did not want to take even a second to try to use both hands. The lake was not as smooth as Mecox Bay, as a matter of fact it was semi-rough. I envisioned myself falling out after hitting a hummock or a ridge of frozen ice; so, better to keep a tight hold as best as possible – just in

case. My camera with a smaller 16-35m lens was strapped around my neck for security sake and I tried in vain The Rocket, the other only existing mighty Hudson River Stern to take a few shots. The Steerer ice boat that measures 50 feet in length is ready to sail for ice was so rough that the first time in 80 years. only until we slowed see in ocean yacht racing. They tried to could I accomplish my mission. We came tack as it is called in order to bring the to a stop and Fritz stated that it was a boat around just enough to slow it down. good idea to bring the boat to a stop evThe wind had been constant for a minute ery once in a while to assess everyone’s or so until it decided to throw us a curve abilities to handle the ride and be safe. by increasing itself with a strong gust just We made minor adjustments to the sails as the boys were trying to steer us out of it. and then he said, “You guys ready? Here As the boat came crashing back down and we go!” He barely got himself back into the wind changed direction the boat now the bow of the boat when a gust of wind was tilting on the starboard (right) side came up and took us like a bullet into the and here I was still sitting on the edge. center of the lake. It was the cold rush!

Fritz yelled at me to get down fast and the As he and his buddy fought the ropes to boom (horizontal portion of the mast that control the steering we went up on the is attached to the sail) came rapidly across port side (left side of the boat) maybe a my back as I tried my best to slide down couple of feet off the ice much like you Spring/Summer 2014

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The boat as it looks when standing next to it. Note the lack of comfort for the crew.

Those wooden gunnels can hurt when the ice is far from smooth at speed.

One of the smaller ice boats at full tilt (with two men aboard) as the flag can attest to. Note the barge in the background going by through the precut channel by ice breakers to allow commercial traffic to flow up and down the river even when it is frozen.

into the tiny box where I would be safe.

But the speed of the boat and the roughness of the ice coupled with the amazingly fast way these boats react did not allow me to lie down flat as intended. Instead I held the boom away from my neck as the men 74

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fought to control the boat from flipping.

To speed along at what seemed breakneck rates and bounce over ice bumps had me a bit nauseous and it was decided that at this point the wind was just too strong for this small boat. We decided to abandon

Fritz and his friend prepare to secure the boat in the ice for the rest of the day and night. Heavy winds brought the day to an early close as it became too dangerous a ride. No brakes other than the wind and your sails means these sailors must be very careful at all times.

ship. From our vantage point, I looked back at the shore line which seemed to be miles away. Fritz and his buddy lowered and furled the sails before laying the boat on its side. With amazing skill they were able to drill small holes in the ice and place metal plugs that were attached to the boat so that it was tethered tight. It was explained to me that the boat must rest on its side or the wind will rip the ice anchors right out of the ice. Once the boat was secure, the men repacked their small equipment bags and we proceeded to hike back to shore. I asked Dick if it was safe to just leave the boat in what seemed like the middle of the lake; was he not afraid of possible theft of the boat? His response was that no one in their right mind would venture out there in the middle of the lake to try and steal a boat they probably couldn’t handle; so yes, it was pretty safe.

He would return tomorrow with another friend who was also a longtime sailor and get the boat back to shore safely when the wind was calmer. We were almost 2 miles out in the center of the lake and the three of us hiked back slowly and carefully so as not to slip and fall on the ice.

My first on-board scootering experience was plenty for one day for this newcomer to the sport. But, I am fascinated

A duo team-up to sail a DN (Detroit News) as we see a couple of others sailing past.

Note the tug boat in the background going under the Rhinecliff Bridge on the Hudson River. The tug uses a precut channel dug by ice cutters to keep the lanes for commercial traffic open on the river in winter time.

with the detail and courage and strength these boats require. It is rather astonishing. Humbling?

Once back at the house, Fritz prepared us lunch as he explained more about the scootering boats and their history. He recommended, as did Peter Zendt, that I get a look at the larger boats that sail the ice and try to catch a ride on one of them.

These boats, as he said, would have soft cushions to sit on in the rear and the ride would be more akin to a Cadillac than a flying saucer. And where were these larger boats – on the Hudson River, of course.

The following weekend, my wife and I drove up to Red Hook, New York, just a stone’s throw from the Rhinebeck Aerodrome to see these beauties for ourselves.

The boats we saw were outstanding examples of workmanship. The river was frozen solid up there. A channel on the other side of the river that had been kept open by ice cutters allowed the commercial freighters and barges with tugs to continue to move up and down the river while the rest of the Hudson was frozen. We saw two large scooters on this day. The first was The Rocket, a 52 foot wooden behemoth on its maiden voyage after a ten year restoration. The boat was originally launched in the 1880’s by the North Shrewsbury Ice

Boat and Yacht Club in Red Bank, New Jersey. Now it was going to sail again under new ownership and a completed restoration. The other boat was the Jack Frost, also measuring 52 feet in length. This boat was once owned by the Astor family and was now looked after by one of the family’s descendants. These boats can travel in excess of 65 mph with a good wind. They look like twin sisters, the devotees say, and they are a part of a lost breed. These Class A Boats are all but extinct, and these two are the only ones of their kind left in the world which make them incredibly valuable. They weigh nearly a ton each and require a crew of four to handle them. But to see them sail on ice is something to marvel at. The smoothness of their runs and the sounds that they make as they skim across the ice was like listening to a train with scratchy wheels from a distance. The mere fact that both wooden ships were on the ice at the same time was declared a once in a lifetime sight by one of the old timers (who, by the way, wore a cap he had made of a skinned coyote fastened by the forepaws under his chin).

Peter Zendt met us on the river and tried to get us a ride on one of these fabulous boats but as we were about to make our way for the request, the crew broke

for lunch. We were told that with the cold and wind being so bitter, that it would be several hours if at all until they would go back out for another run. We could not hold our hopes up that long with no promises. But I photographed them at great length and watched and learned what I could. NBC Nightly News reporter Katy Tur was there as well, doing a story for the news and she got a ride on a smaller boat and told me it was more than she had bargained for. Her story ran later in the week.

This is a sport that one can be easily captivated by. Anyone who enjoys winter, the thrill of speed with the cold rush of wind in their face would be enthralled by this. It was amazing to see the number of participants who continue to support this unique sport that has lasted over a hundred years. We are lucky to have such loving devotees who relish the ride and take such great pride in their contributions to the history of ice sailing. Please note that the boats are stunning, and as well preserved and cared for as any classic vehicles that I have ever seen. It is something to experience, and come next winter I might just try to catch a ride on the Jack Frost and or The Rocket.

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Lasting values crafted by masters.

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Ferrari F12 Berlinetta Ferrari's Super-Tourer Combines Power and Style Article by Stuart Leuthner Photography by William Taylor

Twelve different alloys form the F12's classic long hood, short deck body and state-of-the-art rear wheel drive chassis. The sculpted "Aero-Bridge" running along the sides of the vehicle and Kammback style tail produce impressive downforce and minimal drag. Miles per gallon is probably not a major issue with F12 owners, but Ferrari claims the car gets up to eighteen mpg.

T

he F12 Berlinetta is the most recent representative of Ferrari’s 85 year pursuit of performance and engineering excellence. A writer compared Ferrari’s automobiles to spaghetti sauce. Anybody can make a spaghetti sauce, but it takes a gifted chef to make a memorable spaghetti sauce. Millions of automobiles have been built but Ferrari has managed to blend just the right elements to create the most sought after car in the world.

"The Ferrari F12, "Harry Mathews exclaims,” is one of the most incredible cars I have owned." High accolades indeed from a man who has owned and driven many of the world’s most respected automobiles, including at least a dozen Ferraris.

During the winter of 2012, Mathews heard rumors that Ferrari was replacing the 599 with a new car. After the F12 Berlinetta was introduced to the public

at the 2012 Geneva Motor Show he immediately placed an order accompanied by a non-refundable down payment with Ferrari of Denver. It turned out to be a fortuitous move since approximately 175 F12’s are available annually in the U.S. I was flattered when Harry called and asked me for my input on color when he was configuring the car. He did not want red (everybody has red) and I agreed that his choice of grey metallic paint and a red interior was extremely tasteful.

Fabricated from 12 different lightweight aluminum alloys, the F12’s swooping body and cutting-edge chassis are designed for sex appeal and pure function.

When a new Ferrari appears, there are always aficionados who are unhappy with the look, but the F12 has proved to have few critics. Designed by the Ferrari Styling Center and Pininfarina, the car features a classic long hood with a short deck

body. Worrying about miles per gallon (Ferrari claims the F12 gets up to 18 mpg) is probably not a major consideration for F12 owners, but the unique "Aero Bridges" running from behind the rear wheels into the doors and the Kammback shaped tail not only create exceptional downforce, they also provide minimal drag and reduced fuel consumption.

To improve handling, Ferrari has positioned the F12’s engine lower and further back in the chassis than it was in the 599.

Putting out 731 horsepower, the 48-valve, 6.3-liter V12 is the largest engine the car builder has offered in a road car. A dualclutch seven-speed transmission operated by paddle shifters behind the steering wheel and an electronic differential deliver power to the rear wheels as required, ensuring optimal performance. Gearbox and differential operations, traction control and suspension settings, including

Producing 731 horsepower, the F-12's 48-valve, 6.3-liter V12 is the most powerful engine Ferrari has offered for a road car.

The power plant drives the rear wheels through a dual-clutch transmission and electronic differential. Ferrari reports the car can accelerate from 0 to 62 mph in 3.1 seconds and reach 124 mph in 8.5 seconds.

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Combing leather, alloy and carbon fiber, the interior of the cockpit of the F12 provides ample room for driver and passenger. Inspired

by F1 racing, the steering wheel is fitted with everything required to control the vehicle. Shifting is accomplished with the two paddles located behind the wheel.

"The F12," Harry Mathews exclaims, "is one of the most incredible cars I have owned." High accolades from a man who has owned, driven and raced many of the world's most legendary automobiles, including at least twelve Ferraris. Harry and the F12 were photographed at his home in Arizona, but later this year, he will bring the car to Denver and has promised me a ride when he puts the F12 through its paces at High Plains Raceway.

ESC off, sport, race and wet can be adjusted to the driver’s preference by turning the Manettino dial (little dial) mounted on the steering wheel.

Mathews describes the Ferrari’s driveline as, "Seamless and phenomenal. During the last ten years the advancements in automotive technology have been amazing. Even with the F12’s awesome power, the car is comfortable and a pleasure to drive. I always refer to the car as the ‘adult’ Ferrari.”

According to the factory, a F12 can accelerate from 0-62 mph in 3.1 seconds;

from 0-120 mph in 8.5 seconds with a theoretical top speed of 225 mph. Braking is supplied by Ferrari’s third generation CCM3 carbon ceramic disk brakes.

Lighter and stronger than earlier versions, the brakes receive additional cooling during hard driving by motor-activated shutters channeling air to the backsides of the brake rotors.

Leather, aluminum alloy and carbon fiber create an ergonomic cockpit combining sporty styling and comfort. Inspired by F1 racing, the steering wheel is fitted with everything required to control

Mathew's F12 is currently in Scottsdale, Arizona, but he is planning on bringing the car to Denver in late spring and spending a weekend at High Plains Raceway. Located an hour's drive east of Denver, the track is one of America's finest amateur road racing facilities. In the past, I have had the

The F12's handsome alloy wheels are wrapped with twenty-inch Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires. Filling the void behind the wheels are robust Brembo carbonceramic brakes. During hard driving, motorized doors channel air to the backsides of the brake rotors.

the vehicle. Paddle shifters, turn signals, headlights, windshield wipers, engine ignition and the Manettino dial can be operated by the driver without lifting a hand from the wheel. Instrumentation is what one would expect in a car of this caliber.

Located to the left of the large tachometer are the auxiliary gauges whose task is to monitor engine performance, tire pressure and temperature, Manettino settings and fuel level. Navigation, audio and phone displays are located on the right panel.

exhilarating opportunity to ride shotgun with Harry as he put one of his vehicles through its paces at High Plains and he has invited me to join him in the F12. I not only look forward to the experience, I will share my ride with our readers in a future issue of Chronos.

Ferrari's famous "prancing horse" logo was originally the symbol of Count Francesco Baracca, a legendary fighter ace of the Italian Air Force. Killed in action during the First World War, Enzo Ferrari met Baracca's mother, Countess Paolina in 1923, and she suggested he should paint a horse on his cars for good luck. Ferrari added the yellow background as a tribute to the official color of his home town of Modena.

Spring/Summer 2014

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A Plus for Our Chronos Readers If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces. As a bonus for our CHRONOS readers we are including a subscription to ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL, A Lifestyle Magazine featuring artistic achievement and design, past and present in the world of jewelry, art, design, travel, gardens and beauty wherever it is found.

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WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES

The American Watch Guild was founded as an unprecedented way to recognize those quality retailers, manufacturers and affiliated service companies whose standard of excellence has set them apart in the fine watch industry.

The Guild drew its inspiration from the tradition of the medieval guilds. Those associations of artisans and merchants, from goldsmiths to weavers, were formed to preserve the professionalism within their crafts and to assure buyers of quality by displaying the coveted symbol of their guild.

Today, more than ever, with over six billion dollars in counterfeit products on the market annually, membership in the Guild can separate true value from fictitious value.

Often, gold jewelry offered for sale does not reflect the Karat marking on the item, and diamonds all too often turn out to be merely zircons. Watch movements are frequently of inferior quality as well.

Membership in the American Watch Guild carries with it the commitment to the following criteria: – Authorized agents of the watch brand – Trained watch sales personnel – Factory authorized service for maintenance and repair of watches – Maintenance of a channel for ethical distribution that respects the integrity of the watch

For more information, please visit www.americanwatchguild.com

When you visit one of our Guild Stores, please ask for your complimentary copy of How To Buy A Watch and The Care and Service of Fine Watches.

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Spring/Summer 2014

WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES ALABAMA

Connecticut

Illinois

Minnesota

Mountain Brook

Glastonbury

Addison

Edina

Barton-Clay Jewelers Arizona

Phoenix Hyde Park Jewelers

Scottsdale E.D. Marshall Jewelers California

Beverly Hills David Orgell Westime

Burlingame Kern Jewelers Topper Fine Jewelers

La Jolla Westime

Laguna Hills Swiss Watch Gallery

Los Angeles Chong Hing Jewelers

Milpitas Chong Hing Jewelers

Newport Beach Traditional Jewelers

Palm Desert Leeds & Son Jewelers

Rowland Heights Chong Hing Jewelers

San Francisco Shapur Shreve & Co.

San Gabriel Chong Hing Jewelers

Santa Clara Chong Hing Jewelers

Santa Cruz Dell Williams, Inc.

West Hollywood Westime Colorado

Denver Hyde Park Jewelers

Lux Bond & Green

Greenwich Lux Bond & Green Manfredi Jewelers, Ltd.

Hartford Armstrong Rockwell

South Windsor Lux Bond & Green

Uncasville Lux Bond & Green

West Hartford Lux Bond & Green

Westport Lux Bond & Green District of Columbia

Washington, DC Tiny Jewel Box Florida

Aventura King Jewelers

Belleair Bluffs Harold Freeman Jewelers

Coconut Grove H & H Jewels

Fort Lauderdale Levinson Jewelers

Palm Beach Hamilton Jewelers

Palm Beach Gardens Hamilton Jewelers St. Petersburg Hess Fine Art

Tampa Avant Gold Jewelers

Weston Weston Jewelers

Razny Jewelers

Chicago Geneva Seal Marshall Pierce & Co.

Oak Brook C. D. Peacock Indiana

Ft. Wayne Bradley Gough Diamonds

Indianapolis Reis-Nichols Iowa

Sioux City Gunderson’s Jewelers Louisiana

Baton Rouge Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry Massachusetts

Andover Royal Jewelers

Boston Lux Bond & Green Shreve, Crump & Low

Chestnut Hill David & Co.

Framingham Barmakian Jewelers

Peabody De Scenza Diamonds

Stoneham The Watchmaker

Wellesley Lux Bond & Green Michigan

West Bloomfield Dion’s World of Watches

Scheherazade

Minneapolis J. B. Hudson

St. Louis Park Continental Diamond Mississippi

Ridgeland Sollberger Watches, Clocks & Jewelry Missouri

Clayton Simons Jewelers

Kansas City Meierotto’s Jewelry Nebraska

Omaha Borsheim’s Gunderson's Jewelers Nevada

Las Vegas Ca’d’Oro Horologio Hyde Park Las Vegas New Hampshire

Nashua Barmakian Jewelers New Jersey

Cliffside Park D’Amore Jewelers

Cranford Martin Jewelers

Jersey City Diamond Hut Jewelers

Lawrenceville Hamilton Jewelers

Livingston George Press Fine Jewelers

Morristown Braunschweiger Jewelers

Spring/Summer 2014

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WHERE TO FIND THE WORLD'S FINEST WATCHES New jersey

North Carolina

South Carolina

Caribbean

Princeton

Charlotte

Greenville

Bahamas

Hamilton Jewelers

Red Bank

Fink's Jewelers

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Hamilton Jewelers

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Bernie Robbins Jewelers

Westwood

Fink's Jewelers

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LaViano Jewelers

Windsor Jewelers

New Mexico

North Dakota

Albuquerque

Fargo

Butterfield Jewelers

Royal Jewelers, Inc.

New York

Ohio

Bayside

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Brooklyn

Gasser Jewelers

Cleveland

Simpson Jewelers William Barthman Jewelers

Alson Jewelers

Toledo Harold Jaffe Jewelers

East Hampton London Jewelers

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Oklahoma

Oklahoma City

H. L. Gross & Bro. Jewelers

Huntington Maddaloni Jewelers

B. C. Clark Jewelers Samuel Gordon Jewelers Pennsylvania

Exton

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London Jewelers

Mars

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T & R Jewelers

Newtown

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Bernie Robbins Jewelers

Cellini Wempe Jewelers William Barthman Jewelers

Rochester Cornell’s Jewelers Mann’s Jewelers

Scarsdale Wilson & Son Jewelers

Pittsburgh Henne Jewelers

Scranton Boccardo Jewelers

St. Davids Bernie Robbins Jewelers Rhode Island

Barrington Thomas B. Gray Jewelers

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Geiss & Sons South Dakota

Sioux Falls Gunderson’s Jewelers Tennessee

Nashville King Jewelers

John Bull, Nassau Quantum Duty Free, Nassau

Netherland Antilles Freeport Duty Free, Curacao Freeport Jewelry & Gifts, Curacao

Virgin Islands Jewels, St. Thomas

Texas

Royal Caribbean, St. Thomas

Amarillo

Trident Jewels & Time, St. Thomas

Duncan & Boyd

Dallas deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry Neiman Marcus

El Paso Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry & Watches

Frisco Markham Fine Jewelers

Houston I. W. Marks Jewelers Zadok Jewelers

Sugarland I. W. Marks Jewelers Virginia

Dulles Fink's Jewelers

McLean Fink’s Jewelers

Norfolk Fink's Jewelers

Richmond Fink's Jewelers Schwarzschild Jewelers Washington

Seattle Turgeon-Raine

Spring/Summer 2014

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WW1 RÉGULATEUR Pink Gold · Limited Edition to 99 pieces Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 · information@bellrossusa.com · e-Boutique: www.bellross.com

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watch collector Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime The Escale Worldtime is a colorful, original 24-city world timer with no hands. It works by means of three discs, one with a day/night indicator, one with minutes and one with the world’s 24 cities. The hour is indicated in the reference city. The disks are hand painted using oil paints in 38 colors, a process that takes 50 hours for each dial. It has a peripheral rotor, which can be seen through the caseback, rotating around a large “LV” in frosted glass. The case features corner pieces that are reminiscent of Louis Vuitton trunks.

Louis Vuitton 866-884-8866 www.louisvuitton.com

Chopard Mille Miglia Chopard has long been a fan of classic cars, and among the rallies it sponsors is the Mille Miglia, a 1,000-mile race through the spectacular landscape between Brescia and Rome, Italy.

Chopard has been involved with the race since 1988, and has introduced a limited edition timepiece commemorating the race every year since then. This year’s vintage-inspired model features fonts from the 1920s and lugs that are soldered rather than screwed in. The self-winding chronograph movement has a 42-hour power reserve.

Chopard USA 800-CHOPARD www.chopard.com

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watch collector Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture Ulysse Nardin reintroduced its iconic Dual Timer with an in-house caliber this year as part of its ongoing consolidation and goal of using inhouse movements in all of its watches. Their goal is 95% manufacture calibers in its line by 2017. The Dual Time Manufacture, which enables the second time zone and date to be adjusted both forward and backward, is now equipped with Caliber UN-334, with a silicon escapement. Ulysse Nardin had developed the module on the previous caliber, an ETA base, used in this watch.

Ulysse Nardin 561-988-8600 www.ulysse-nardin.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica 11 Minute Repeater This is the eleventh creation in the haute horology Hybris Mechanica collection and, at 7.9mm thick, represents the world’s smallest minute repeater/ grand complication with an automatic movement.

This is a flying tourbillon, and the absence of an upper bridge contributes to the slim profile, as do the new flying balance wheel and peripheral rotor, all of which combine to make the watch 25% thinner than the typical tourbillon escapement. A retractable pushbutton activates the repeater.

Jaeger-LeCoultre 877-JLC-1833 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

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watch collector Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller The Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller was first launched in 1967 as the Sea-Dweller 2000 (water resistant to 2,000 feet), which became the Sea-Dweller 4000 (water resistant to 4,000 feet), with a helium escape valve. The new one has a black Cerachrom bezel with PVD platinum markers, gold Chromalight hands and markers, blue Parachrom hairspring (in Caliber 3135) and a bracelet with Glidelock extension system and Oysterlock safety clasp. It is steel and retains the famous helium escape valve.

Rolex 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com

Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990 The new Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph has two separate hour hands on the same axis. The lower one is skeletonized and displays home time, while the other, which matches the style of the minute hand, indicates local time. The hour hand for local time can be adjusted in one-hour steps with the plus and minus correctors on the left case side. If by mistake, the wearer pushes both forward and back buttons at the same time, the watch automatically defaults to forward. It contains Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS. Patek Philippe 212-218-1240 www.patek.com

watch collector Piaget 900P Ultra-Thin From the brand that already holds 14 world records for thin calibers comes the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, at 3.65mm thick. This is achieved through several technical feats: the caseback doubles as the main plate, onto which the movement is built. The whole assembly also serves as the dial, with no extra layer between movement and sapphire crystal. The hands are integrated on the same level as the movement components. A high jewelry version contains about five carats of diamonds and is just 5.65mm thick.

Piaget 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com

Chanel J12-365 Beige Gold and Diamonds The J12, made of high-tech ceramic, is one of the most iconic watches of the 21st century.

The new J12-365 Beige Gold in black ceramic, features a bezel made of Chanel’s new proprietary gold alloy, which it calls beige gold. The flange, or inner bezel, is set with 69 diamonds, and the small seconds subdial is set with 68 diamonds. The dial surrounding it is finished in a black guillochÊ pattern. The watch contains a self-winding mechanical movement with a 42-hour power reserve, and is water resistant to 100 meters.

Chanel Inc. 212-688-5055 www.chanel.com Spring/Summer 2014

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As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers.

Mention that you saw them in Chronos when you call. Visit us at www.ChronosWatchMagazine.com BULGARI Tel: 800-BULGARI www.Bulgari.com BULOVA One Bulova Ave. Woodside, NY 11377 Tel: 800-228-5682 Tel: 718-204-3300 www.bulova.com CHOPARD 800-CHOPARD www.US.Chopard.com CITIZEN 1200 Wall Street West Lyndhurst, NJ 07071 Tel: 201-438-8150 www.citizenwatch.com EBERHARD & CO. ABS Distributor 22600 Savi Ranch Pkwy.

Yorba Linda, CA 92887 Tel: 714-453-1622 www.ABSdist.com GLYCINE Swiss Watch Consultants, LLC 80 Canal St. Manchester, NH 03101 Tel: 603-206-5195 www.glycine-watch.ch GREENWICH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE Tel: 203-618-0460 www.greenwichconcours.com

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HERMES 55 East 59th Street New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-835-6417 www.hermes.com

REACTOR 5312 Derry Ave., Ste. B Agoura Hills, CA 91301 Tel: 800-291-6600 www.ReactorWatch.com

LUMINOX LUMONDI 2301 Kerner Blvd., Ste. A San Rafael, CA 94901 Tel: 415-455-9500 www.luminox.com

ROLEX WATCH USA 665 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-758-7700 www.rolex.com

MOVADO 650 From Road Paramus, NJ 07652 Tel: 888-4-MOVADO www.movado.com MTM SPECIAL OPS WATCH 1225 South Grand Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90015 Tel: 800-284-9487 Tel: 213-741-0808 www.specialopswatch.com PIAGET 645 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10022 Tel: 877-8-PIAGET www.piaget.com RALPH LAUREN Tel: 877-639-7934 www.RalphLaurenWatches.com

SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Tel: 877-FLY-SWISS www.swiss.com TAVANNES P. O. Box 85 Valencia, PA 16059 Tel: 412-600-4240 www.tavanneswatches.com TUDOR WATCH U.S.A. 665 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-897-9900 www.tudorwatch.com WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Ave. New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com

T:16.75 in S:16.25 in

The Ralph Lauren RL67 Safari Collection

NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS DALLAS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR BETTERIDGE GREENWICH HAMILTON JEWELERS PALM BEACH MARSHALL PIERCE CHIGAGO FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF STORES, PLEASE VISIT RALPHLAURENWATCHES.COM

41738RL_Chronos Magazine April.indd All Pages

P-38 Lightning™ Chronograph No. 9441: 44 mm, stainless steel brushed case, screw down crown & caseback, antireflective sapphire crystal, black aluminum inlay bezel with tachymeter, water resistant to 200 meters, black leather strap with steel signature buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination.

Swiss Made.

A tribute to Lockheed Martin’s legendary twin-boomed WWII Fighter Jet. The Luminox P-38 Lightning™ Series is part of the

Collection.

GUNMETAL FINISH SELF-WINDING TOURBILLON www.luminox.com MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT facebook.com/Luminox EQUIPPED

WITH A MICRO-ROTOR

SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CASE BACK 38-HOUR POWER RESERVE SWISS MADE

3/19/14 1:12 PM

B:11.125 in

STAINLESS STEEL 45MM MODEL

T:10.875 in

S:10.375 in

THE RL67 TOURBILLON

Begin your own tradition.

For the Curious, The Collector and the Connoisseur

Spring/Summer 2014

Spring/summer 2014

You never actually own a Patek Philippe.

You merely take care of it for the next generation.

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Number one hundred eight

Nautilus Ref. 5712/1A, Nautilus cufflinks.

Scootering Bulgari Masters of Time Andrew Wyeth Through the Window Ralph Lauren On Time

Eberhard & Co. Chrono 4 Grande Taille