ECLAT INTERNATIONAL Issue #102 by RAJ WALIA

Chronos magazine September 2012

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Table of

Contents

Spring/Summer 2013 No. 102

Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity 28

Spring Time 42

Year of the Snake 58

RAW & RAVISHING 46

India

Cover Image: VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Victoria Necklace- White Gold, Cultured Pearls and Emerald Pebbles, Pink and Purple Sapphires, Diamonds. Victoria Bracelet- White Gold, Diamonds, Violet and Pink Sapphires, Pebble Emeralds, Cultured Pearls.

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ÉCLAT is published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the April/May issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry ofﬁces. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ÉCLAT at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557

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Editor'S Outline

Spring is in the air, and the blooms are making us look forward to the beautiful months of summer ahead. With that in mind we have showcased wonderful images and highlighted seasonal topics depicting this enchanting time of year.

Integrating their elegant continental European roots with a modern American sensibility, Gumuchian is instantly recognizable. Dazzling impressionist-era painting, along with period costumes and accessories,

highlight the haute couture of the day in Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity, a new exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The exhibition seductively transports visitors to the beginnings of Paris’ status as the fashion capital of the world.

Spring Time illustrates how elite watch brands have turned to nature, and particularly flowers, as inspiration for dials that are crafted according to the métiers d’art of watchmaking – enameling, engraving, marquetry and gemsetting. More than a decade ago, when jewelry designer Todd Reed created the raw-gems

aesthetic in jewelry design, he was one of the earliest to work with rough, uncut diamonds. Raw and Ravishing tells how today the raw look is one of the most important looks in jewelry design.

50 58

The sinuous serpent has long been one of the prized motifs in jewelry design, partly because despite its slithery, original-sin reputation, it is magnificently adaptable to jewelry design. The versatile creations are presented in The Year of the Snake. India is a feast for the senses, but for the visually and photographically inclined, this dramatic country is especially thrilling. India, a palette of colors splashed and splattered across a gigantic canvas, is vividly captured.

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Spring/Summer 2013 No. 102

PUBLISHER Bertram Kalisher

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Jay Lazar

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Carol Besler Lorraine DePasque Bertram Kalisher Jeff Prine Andrew Siskind Hannah M. Zweiﬂer

PRODUCTION OFFICE Lazar Advertising & Marketing 222 West 37 St., 6 Fl. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 212-889-9660 e-mail: chronos@lazaradv.com

PARIS OFFICE AlmaKarina Agency Thomas Claisse and Karina Rikun 36 rue Fabert 75007 Paris, France +33(7)60461213 contact@almakarina.com

ART DIRECTOR Raj Walia

ONLINE EDITOR Samuel Siskind

EXECUTIVE OFFICE Editorial Advertising Circulation 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 Tel: 516-295-2516 Fax: 516-374-5060

ÉCLAT is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in ÉCLAT. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts.

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ou’ve seen their work in cosmopolitan cities around the world, in magazines like Elle and People, and being worn by celebrities ranging from Mariah Carey to Sofia Vergara. Whether earrings, bracelets, rings, or pendants, their work is instantly recognizable. Integrating their elegant continental European roots with a modern American sensibility, their work is being worn by some of the most fashionable women around the world, and the reason why is no surprise – it’s hip, stylish, and elegant. Gumuchian’s roots in the jewelry industry predate the company’s beginning – founder Anita and her husband Andre originally traded in diamonds

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and this heritage has allowed them access to some of the finest stones available. Andre Jr., their son, heads up the diamond business from the family offices in Antwerp and hand selects almost all the diamonds used in their jewelry. This close attention to detail ensures that only flawless and ethically sourced stones are used in their workshop. The family’s gemological knowledge extends beyond diamonds –

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Anita is also an expert in colored stones, and many one of a kind Gumuchian pieces are based around rare and stunning stones from around the world. A steady string of technical innovations have earned their workshop a reputation as one of the most forward thinking in the industry, with a special focus on developing new settings that better highlight the stones used in each piece. From their family-run offices in Belgium to their

atelier in the heart of New York City, Gumuchian is an international brand that spans the world of high fashion, from America to Europe. Their pieces are found at society soirees, red carpet events, and galas – being worn by the world’s most fashionable women. Their motto, “Designed for women by women”, reveals one of the keys to their success. Drawing on their own experiences, taste, and personal sense of style, Anita, Myriam, and Patricia are able to consistently create beautiful new pieces that seem to be exactly what women are looking for. Employing about twenty craftsmen in New York, many of whom have worked with the family for decades, the family-run business thrives on the challenge of creating new, exciting jewelry every Spring/Summer 2013

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CMJ

year. Their insights into the changing landscape of taste allow them to stay ahead of the curve and continue to create engaging and alluring pieces season after season. Their absolutely hands on approach to both design and production – the women oversee the workshop in New York personally, ensure that their ideas are masterfully realized. No piece is finished without the personal 12

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inspection and approval of one of the Gumuchian women – and they maintain a high standard of quality while doing their best to accommodate every order, whether it’s resetting a family heirloom stone into a modern piece or creating a new custom engagement ring. www.gumuchian.com 

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SPR ING BLOOMS IN phil a dephi a by Nancy K. Siskind Images courtesy of PHS Pennsylvania Horticultural Society and Nancy K Siskind

or the past several years I have identified the annual PHS Philadelphia Flower Show in early March as the announcement of spring. The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society (PHS) offers creative displays of all aspects of horticultural design, from small garden portrayals to large garden installations. My annual trip to Philadelphia serves both to heighten my anticipation of the coming season and to inspire my own work in the garden. It is the largest indoor flower show in the USA, a wealth of floral fantasy, displaying innovative and imaginative designs. 16

This year there was a striking exhibition entitled “Brilliant”, which paid homage to English garden design and brought me back to my time touring the south of England’s countryside and its many wonderful gardens. The entrance to the exhibit was a splendid example of what was to come. Theatrical table settings displayed elegant floral arrangements. I appreciated the mélange of container plantings and innovative landscape vignettes, and I especially enjoyed the ingenious floral mannequins. 

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DESIGNED AND MANUFACTURED IN NEW YORK CITY

TO VIEW THE COMPLETE GALLOP COLLECTION V I S I T WWW.GUMUCHIAN.COM

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THE GALLOP COLLECTION BY GUMUCHIAN

FOR A JEWELER NEAR YOU

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WWW.GUMUCHIAN.COM

800.223.0774

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Showcase The craftsmanship found in the finest jewelry rivals that of any piece of fine art—as these examples testify to. The intrinsic value of precious gemstones and metals is further enhanced by the creativity of the jeweler, who envisions them as miniature, wearable masterpieces. These are treasures meant to be worn and adored.

Fringe Benefits Fawaz Gruosi, the founder of Geneva-based De Grisogono, is something of an impresario in fine jewelry and watches. Whether he’s pioneering the use of black or icy diamonds or combining vivid colored gemstones in unprecedented combinations, all the designs have a common element: they are feminine and very wearable. These 18k gold hoop earrings featuring 1,215 brown diamonds and 181 briolette-cut spessartite garnets are a head turning look for spring. De Grisogono www.degrisogono.com

Come Fly Away One of the motifs seen on recent runways in Europe and the United States was the use the use of winged insects as design elements. Georland, the haute jeweler based in Paris, was ahead of the trend with this dragonfly brooch. By using rare Paraiba tourmalines, Mandarin garnets, tsavorites and diamonds, the master jewelers have recreated the bright, iridescent colors that give real dragonflies their distinctive look. Georland www.georland.com

Think Pink When describing the stones in his “Naturally Pink” line of pink diamond jewelry, designer Nayna Mehta is found of reminding you “they’re less than one in a million.” Natural, untreated pink diamonds are amongst the scarcest gems around – most are relegated to top connoisseurs. Mehta, however, has managed to get his hands on a treasure trove of brilliant pinks that he has fashioned into more affordable jewelry, suitable for everyday or bridal use. The blushing beauty pictured here could make a statement as a right-hand ring, or even as an engagement ring. Naturally pink www.nayna.com 22

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The Colorful Side of Gemlok

For the store nearest you call 800.221.4438 www.gemlok.com

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Showcase

Shore Inspired Does the nature inspired jewelry by designer Judy Murat remind you of the lush landscapes of a tropical island? When she’s not journeying to the Greek isles, Polynesia, or the Caribbean, Murat resides in Palm Beach and summers in Southampton, and is inspired by the beauty of the seashore. Her “Butterfly Kisses” 18K yellow gold necklace features large-size specially cut topazes – in a clear ocean blue like the Atlantic as seen from Worth Avenue. Judith Murat www.judithmurat.com

Golden Cascades There are nine individual, brushed 18K yellow gold discs that can be found on each of these Origin earrings by designer Sandy Leong. They are carefully and artfully articulated so that as they hang from the ear, they shimmer like light reflecting off the cascades of a waterfall. A native of the Pacific Northwest, Leong says the rocky coastline in Oregon and California inspires her, and it’s easy to see Mother Nature recreated here. Sandy Leong www.sandyleong.com

Dark Features Doron Hakimian, president and chief designer of Doves, started his career by earning a degree in architecture before working for his family’s decades-old diamond jewelry business. It’s easy to see the attention to detail, form, and flow found in his jewelry that comes from his architectural background. This classical 18K gold ring is made even more dramatic by the combination of brown, black, and white diamonds. Doves Jewelry www.DovesJewelry.com 24

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NEW YORK

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Showcase

Rock Stars Designer Steven Lagos has created many iconic Jewelry designs in his career, such as his “Caviar” textures in precious metals. The designer now goes for gold, 18K that is, fashioning another iconic look in his “Rocks” collection. The metals are carefully formed into asymmetrical faceted shapes that appear to gleam just like a gemstone. Lagos www.Lagos.com

Form and Function Rahaminov Diamonds has created a niche for itself by focusing on beautiful cuts and rare diamonds. In its Illaria Collection, larger specially-cut diamonds are highlighted as center stones set in delicately brushed gold. This 18K rose gold ring features a 7.03 carat pear shaped diamond surrounded by smaller diamonds. Rahaminov Diamonds www.rahaminovdiamond.com

Graceful Designs The elegant casinos of Monte Carlo, dramatic Mediterranean cliffs, and a certain beautiful American actress who became a princess – these are just part of the romantic mystique surrounding Monaco. It’s appropriate that designer Judith Ripka names the 18K white gold and colored gemstone rings in this collection after the tiny principality. Ripka, who has legions of well-earned devotees, one again makes jewelry that turns any woman into royalty. Judith Ripka www.judithripka.com

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Rock Hard.......Silky Smooth Modern Brilliance, Etienne Perret incorporates jet black gem ceramique creating dramatic contrast between the wide ceramique band and the sintillating diamonds.

etienne@etienneperret.com

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001.207.236.9696

www.ceramicjewelry.com

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Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity At the Metropolitan Museum of Art February 26â&#x20AC;&#x201C;May 27, 2013 by Hannah M. Zweifler Gustave Caillebotte (French, 1848â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1894) Paris Street; Rainy Day 1877 Oil on canvas 83 1/2 x 108 3/4 in. (212.2 x 276.2 cm) The Art Institute of Chicago Charles H. and Mary F. S. Worcester Collection

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he Parisienne" is not in fashion, she is fashion.” Though these words still ring true today, they were written by the French novelist/poet Arsène Houssaye for the magazine L’Artiste in 1869. In fact, the quote currently presides over a gallery in Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity, a new exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art that seductively transports visitors to the beginnings of Paris’s status as the fashion capital of the world. Dazzling Impressionist-era paintings (some never before seen in the U.S.) parade the haute couture of the day—crinoline dresses and elaborate bustles—while taking care to capture the tactile qualities of fabrics and the smallest of details, in order to signal that the fashions represented were also the latest. Nineteenth-century fashion plates, photographs and prints, and sixteen period costumes and accessories—including everything from hats, shoes and corsets, to fans, parasols, and walking canes—not only bring to life the Impressionists’ creations in paint, but also whisk museum-goers away into an era newly inundated with the trappings of mass-consumer fashion, a time when being of the moment was paramount.

Claude Monet (French, 1840–1926) Women in the Garden 1866 Oil on canvas 100 3/8 x 80 11/16 in. (255 x 205 cm) Musée d'Orsay, Paris

As the show emphasizes, artists sought to represent—both in content and style—their modern world, and in the mid-1860s–mid-1880s many embraced fashion as the ultimate indication of modernity. The allure of Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity’s eight galleries, organized both thematically and chronologically, thus derives from the dialogue they engender between the objects of modern life and the painters of modern life. The innovative ways in which Impressionist painters gave expression to their world is showcased throughout. For example, there is still something shocking about the preference for fashion over portraiture in the large-scale figure paintings featured in the exhibition’s first gallery. Inspired by the nearby fashion illustrations and carte-de-visite photographs, the women pose facing away from the viewer, letting their luxurious trains spill out into the foreground of the canvases. The eye-catching elegance of the satin green-striped dress and furtrimmed paletot in Camille renders the subject not merely Monet’s lover, but rather, a true Parisienne of the era.

Claude Monet (French, 1840–1926) Camille 1866 Oil on canvas 90 15/16 x 59 1/2 in. (231 x 151 cm) Kunsthalle Bremen, Der Kunstverein in Bremen

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Claude Monet (French, 1840–1926) Luncheon on the Grass (left panel) 1865–66 Oil on canvas 164 5/8 x 59 in. (418 x 150 cm) Musée d'Orsay, Paris Gift of Georges Wildenstein, 1957

Claude Monet’s fragmented Luncheon on the Grass (1865-6) and Women in the Garden (1866) are two of the show’s highlights. A nod to new railroads that whisked city dwellers to the countryside, Monet not only captures the prominent world of leisure, but also manipulates natural elements, such as sun and shade, to highlight the feminine details of the women’s country styles, versions of which can be found in the same gallery. Two galleries, “The White Dress,” and “The Black Dress,” are particularly interesting for the way in which fashion and Impressionist painterliness

Claude Monet (French, 1840–1926) Luncheon on the Grass (central panel) 1865–66 Oil on canvas 97 7/8 x 85 7/8 in. (248.7 x 218 cm) Musée d'Orsay, Paris Acquired as a payment in kind, 1987

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Auguste Renoir (French, 1841–1919) The Loge 1874 Oil on canvas 31 1/2 x 25 in. (80 x 63.5 cm) The Samuel Courtauld Trust, The Courtauld Gallery, London

come together. Paintings of women strolling in the country or engaging in activities in the home, show them wearing informal white morning or day dresses. Artists delicately render the ethereal quality of these cotton and muslin garments, as in Berthe Morisot’s Woman with a Fan (Portrait of Madame Marie Hubbard) (1874), conjuring in paint the quietness and solitude of these scenes. Black, meanwhile, which in this time emerged as symbolic of elegance, worldliness and sophistication, offered artists a chance to show off their abilities to describe the lights and darks of black dresses made of taffeta, faille, or organza. Two standouts are Éduoard Manet’s Lady with Fans (1873), which depicts a goldembroidered bolero, an Algerian blouse, and Japanese screens, demonstrating an interest in the exotic, and Manet’s The Parisienne (1875), in which quick dashes of blue paint are used to invoke satin and ruffles.

Albert Bartholomé (French, 1848–1928) In the Conservatory (Madame Bartholomé) ca. 1881 Oil on canvas 91 3/4 x 56 1/8 in. (233 x 142.5 cm) Musée d'Orsay, Paris Gift of the Société des Amis du Musée d'Orsay, 1990

An exciting moment in the show comes with discovering Albert Bartholomé’s In the Conservatory (Madame Bartholomé) (1881), the only painting to be accompanied by the actual dress it represents. The painting shows Madame Bartholomé, a well-known hostess in artistic and literary circles, welcoming the viewer. Visitors will know that Bartholomé accurately depicted his wife’s fantastic white and purple summer dress by examining the actual garment’s elaborate pleating, glass buttons, and faille bow. Among the not-to-be-missed works later in the show is Pierre-August Renoir’s The Loge, depicting the model Nina Lopez in her box at the theatre, fashionable in stripes, and representing the spectacle of modern Spring/Summer 2013

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Paris—urban spaces were for seeing and being seen. Indeed, fashion in the 1870s and 80s was an urban phenomenon. In this regard, the iconic, large-scale Paris Street, Rainy Day, equally a portrait of Paris’s new boulevards and the latest fashion, by Gustave Caillebotte, provides the perfect capstone to the exhibition. Replete with masterworks from the Art Institute of Chicago, the Musée d’Orsay, and the Metropolitan, many of the works constitute highlights. In short, Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity is a feast for the eyes. Parisian consumerism comes to life with displays of velvet, lace, ruffles, and even whaleboneclasped corsets. Objects both painted and real demonstrate the constant pull modernity had on designers and painters alike. As Édouard Manet is quoted in the exhibition: “The latest fashion…is absolutely necessary for a painting. It’s what matters most.” 

Summer Day Dress Worn by Madame Bartholomé in the Painting In the ConservatoryFrench, 1880 White cotton printed with purple dots and stripes Musée d'Orsay, Paris Gift of the Galerie Charles and André Bailly, 1991

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paparaji

Printemps

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Photo Story by AlmaKarina Agency Photography: Thomas Claisse Art Direction: Karina Rikun Flowers: Atelier Vertumne Paris Special thanks to Clarisse Beraud 4/11/13 12:33 PM

BOUCHERON Pompon necklace in white gold set with diamonds. CamĂŠlĂŠon pendant/brooch in white gold set with diamonds and emeralds.

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SICIS JEWELS Necklace Bluebells Fal 106gr 38 White Gold 4 cts 63 Diamonds 4ct 29 Sapphires 5ct 16 Emeralds

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CHANEL "CamĂŠlia Solaire" bracelet in 18-K white and yellow gold set with 487 brilliant-cut diamonds for 11 carats, 7 marquise-cut yellow diamonds for 2.5 carats, 9 brilliant-cut yellow diamonds for 2 carats and a 1-carat oval-cut yellow diamond. "Jardin de CamĂŠlias" collection.

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DIOR Rose Dior Bagatelle necklace in white gold and diamonds. Rose Dior Bagatelle ring in white gold and diamonds. Bois de Rose bracelet in white gold and diamonds.

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CHAUMET White gold "Echarpe" necklace with diamonds, 178.08 cts.

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MELLERIO DITS MELLER 6 ranks necklace set with emeralds (372 carats), pink tourmalines (19,50 carats), diamonds (3,88 carats), yellow gold.

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DE GRISOGONO Necklace in grey gold (127.50 grs), 892 white diamonds (62.50 cts). Earrings in grey gold (29.61 grs), 1097 white diamonds (26.935 cts), 20 briolettes Brown diamonds (12.036 cts), 74 briolettes emeralds (30.018 cts).

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Spring Time by Carol Besler

Muguet (Lily of the Valley) watch with yellow sapphires and diamonds from the Van Cleef & Arpels Charms collection

Lotus, set with Paraiba tourmalines and sapphires, from the Van Cleef & Arpels Charms collection

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The China Limodoron watch from the Metiers d'art Florilège collection by Vacheron Constantin.

White Lily watch from the Vacheron Constantin Florilège collection, with a grand feu cloisonné enamel dial inspired by The Temple of Flora, a book of botanical illustrations written in 1799 by botanist/ explorer Robert John Thornton

Flowers, the ultimate symbol of femininity, have long been a favorite motif in jewelry, but they have recently been in full bloom on the dials of ladies’ watches, a canvas on which colorful enamels bring out the beauty of exotic flowers Spring/Summer 2013

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Front view of the Blancpain Chronograph Large Date for ladies. The back of the watch features a petal-shaped, gold oscillating weight

The Blancpain Chronograph Large Date for ladies contains the Blancpain automatic caliber 26F8G, with a spectacular, petal-shaped, gold oscillating weight that is visible on the caseback

Spring Timers Piaget’s Limelight Dancing Light Collection is a celebration of the seasons, with dials around which fairytale seasonal depictions are crafted in enamels and mother-of-pearl marquetry. The Spring edition features light butterflies in polished or gem-set gold, which flutter gracefully above a dial enhanced with flowers made of pink and green mother-of-pearl marquetry

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The Rolex Oyster Datejust ﬂoral motif models are made using an electroforming technique of depositing gold ﬂoral motifs onto the dial

he elite watch brands have turned to nature, and particularly flowers, as inspiration for dials that are crafted according to the metiers d’art of watchmaking – enameling, engraving, marquetry and gemsetting. The latest collection from Vacheron Constantin is the Florilège, a trio of watches with grand feu cloisonné enamel dials depicting exotic flowers. They

were inspired by The Temple of Flora, a book of botanical illustrations written in 1799 by botanist/explorer Robert John Thornton. Van Cleef & Arpels also introduced a collection of enameled dials in its Charms collection that depict flowers and fairies, while Blancpain opted for a floral detail on the caseback – the 18k gold rotor of the selfwinding movement is engraved to depict a flower.  Spring/Summer 2013

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RAW & RAVISHING Todd Reed’s raw-gem designs reflect a deep respect for the beauty of nature in its original forms 18k gold and sterling silver ring with raw diamond cubes.

by Carol Besler

ore than a decade ago, when jewelry designer Todd Reed created the rawgems aesthetic in jewelry design, he was the only one designing with rough, uncut diamonds. Today, the raw look is one of the most important looks in jewelry design. Reed’s jewelry designs however, remain unique. “Mostly what I do with raw diamonds is to enhance the beauty in what is often taken for granted,” says Reed. “To make the ordinary special simply by seeing it as beautiful. This is really a bit like nature; you swoon at a sunset although it’s really quite an ordinary experience in nature.” Reed met his calling when, during a family vacation in Bisbee, Arizona, he saw a working silversmith and “it forever changed the way I viewed design and my life,” he says. “I watched in awe as this man turned sheet metal into body adornment in what seemed to be a very short time.” After designing furniture, clothing, leatherwork, sculpture and painting, and graduating with honors from culinary school, Reed became good friends with a well-known diamond collector. “He completely took me under his wing. His love for diamonds was infectious, and he showed me the artistry and miniature sculpture that appeared in the rough stones,” says Reed. “I was riveted and wanted to know and see more. I realized that my aesthetic was to create jewelry that would push the boundaries of what precious pieces could be, and to merge the freedom of artistic expression with the allure of fine jewelry.” 46

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Nature has long been Reed’s muse. “I’m a bit abstract about how I look at or through nature,” he says. “I like the subtle aspects like shadows and textures. The experience is an emotion, energy. So I like to simply be an observer in nature and make things that are influenced by emotion.” His latest collections explore even further the exquisiteness of nature around us. One collection, Autumn, celebrates beads of water on leaves. Another, called Bort, is based on using one-of-a-kind rough diamonds wrapped in a gold and diamond sleeve. All of Todd Reed’s pieces are hand fabricated and finished in 18k gold, palladium, platinum, and silver. The gold he uses is recycled, either by reusing clients’ gold or Harmony Metals, 100% recycled metals, from Hoover and Strong.

18k gold and sterling silver earrings with rose cut diamonds and raw diamond cubes.

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Pendant from the Bort collection in18k gold with one-of-a-kind rough diamond wrapped in a gold and diamond sleeve.

18k gold and sterling silver cuff bracelet with grey fancy cut diamond center, white brilliant diamonds and raw diamond cubes. 18k gold and diamond rings.

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Raw gems are not Reed’s only materials of choice. Many of his pieces contain other fine gemstones. “I really love to use many materials,” he says. “I love color, and adore many large choice specimens of garnet, tourmaline, sapphire and opal. Typically, these pieces would require a special order.” He also works with polished diamonds, including rose and brilliant cut gems.

RAW & RAVISHING

In 2010, when Todd outgrew his industrial design/distribution space in Boulder, Colorado where he is based, he built a retail showroom and studio space on Boulder's Pearl Street. Because Todd's design aesthetic extends to every area of his life, from the home he built to the bikes he rides, his work space is also a dramatic statement of his design vision. When asked whether he is pleased or annoyed that so many other designers are now working with his signature element – raw gems – he answers, “I’m both pleased and annoyed; pleased that designers are exploring new materials to fit the needs of customers, but not so happy about the artist/designer that devalues the material or the brand that I’ve created.” 

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18k gold cuff bracelet with uncut diamond macles, pink brilliant cut diamonds and a raw diamond cube.

Todd Reed in his ofﬁce. photo credit: Brian Mark photography

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www.baselworld.com

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Year of the Snake by Carol Besler

They curve around the wrist, coil around the fingers and look magnificently mischievous with those emerald or ruby set eyes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the mystical, seductive snake slithers into the jewelry and fashion spotlight

Victoria Serpente ring in engraved yellow gold and set with gemstones by Sorellina

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Vacheron Constantin’s artful tribute to the Year of the Snake, from its Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection, rendered in blue and bronze grand feu enamel over a hand-engraved 18k gold dial. The case is platinum

Rhodiumed sterling silver snake ring with white sapphires and ruby eyes, by Elizabeth and James, the collection designed by the Olson Twins

The Omega Round (or “Wiggley”) diamond ring from Steven Kretchmer, with 24k crystallized yellow gold inlay with eight small diamonds and a central patented Tension-set diamond, which exposes more light to the stone than traditionally set diamonds

Lapis lazuli ring with serpent-themed shank, set with sapphire and rubies, by Elizabeth and James, the collection designed by the Olson Twins

Sterling silver and yellow gold plated snake earrings with white sapphire accents and ruby eyes, by Elizabeth and James, the collection designed by the Olson Twins

he sinuous serpent has long been one of the prized motifs in jewelry design, partly because despite its slithery, original-sin reputation, it is magnificently adaptable to jewelry design. It is tactile, which lends itself to being twisted and coiled into almost any desired position, and it is alive with personality, mythology and symbolism. This, combined with its status on the current Chinese calendar – it is the Year of the Snake –

makes this exotic creature the reigning ssssssuper-motif in jewelry and fashion this year.

a snake in the house is a good omen because it means that your family will not starve.

Symbolically, according to the Chinese Zodiac, the snake represents steady progress and attention to detail. It is the sixth sign of the Chinese Zodiac, which consists of 12 animal signs. It is the most enigmatic, intuitive, introspective, refined and collected of the animal signs, according to ancient Chinese wisdom, which also holds that

Still, the best snakes to have in the house are the ones made of precious metals and beautiful gemstones. From the Egyptians (who believed royalty should adorn themselves with precious snakes) to the Victorians (Queen Victoria herself wore a wedding ring with a snake motif), the serpent has been an important part of jewelry

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From the Cartier Les Heures Fabuleuses collection of high jewelry watches, this snakethemed watch cover is set with diamonds and garnets

The Hublot Big Bang Boa, a chronograph with attitude

Earrings in gold and oxidized sterling silver with diamonds and white sapphires by Emily Armenta

The Bulgari Serpenti bracelet watch, in black enamel, 18k gold and diamonds

design through the ages. Its revival this year was led by Bulgari, which has a long history of bejewelled snakes. The brand introduced a new Serpenti collection of watches and jewelry last year at Baselworld, and recently hosted a retrospective of its serpent-themed treasures at its Fifth Avenue flagship. Several other watch brands have embraced 52

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the trend as well, including Vacheron Constantin, Cartier and Hublot. But the snake is overwhelmingly popular with jewelry designers this year, with collections from Emily Armenta, Gumuchian, Elizabeth and James, Sorellina, Bellarri, Rina Limor and more. Here are some recent examples of bejeweled ophidians. ď ľ

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DIc

M I LAN : V I A M O N T E N A P O L E O N E • PA R IS: P L AC E V E N D Ô M E • L O N D O N : O L D B O N D S T R E E T • L O S A N G E L E S : B E V E R LY H I L L S , RO D E O DRIVE • TOK YO: G INZA B O L O G N A • F L O R E N C E • G E N O A • N A P L E S • P O RTO C E RV O • P O RTO F I N O • RO M E • T U R I N • V E N I C E • V E RO N A M O S C O W • K I E V • O D E S S A • H O N O L U L U • M O N T E R R E Y • O S A K A • B U S A N • DA E G U • S E O U L • TA I P E I • C H E N G D U • N I N G B O • S H A N G H A I H O N G KO N G • M A C A U • S I N G A P O R E • N E W D E L H I • A L M AT Y • B A K U • D U B A I • K U WA I T C I T Y • B E I R U T

T H E DA M I A N I D. I C O N C O L L E C T I O N

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Quite a Change

Zultanite Named for the jewelry-loving rulers of the Ottoman Empire, Zultanite offers an abundance of attributes: ethically mined and rare, these gems change color depending upon what kind of light they’re exposed to. by Jeff Prine

“Zultanite looks amazing with just about any colored gemstone,” says designer Erica Courtney. Here, her 18K yellow gold ring with 15.86-carat Zultanite centerstone with pink sapphire and diamond accents. www.ericacourtney.com

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Fit for Royalty: The Empress Ring by designer Erica Courtney in 18K yellow Gold with 15.35-carat Zultanite centerstone along with tsavorite and diamond accents. www.ericacourtney.com

pon first seeing some outstanding specimens from a new mine in Turkey, Erica Courtney could hardly believe her eyes: a brilliant transparent gem that changed color up to four times? While the designer had used Alexandrite, color-change garnet and colorchange sapphire in her sumptuously feminine fine jewelry collection, she had never before encountered a stunner like this Zultanite.

goodwill with its neighbors, the mine donates bricks to a local community center that provides free housing to the poor, donates food twice a year to more than 100 homes in villages surrounding the mine and routinely provides supplies to local village schools. For every piece of timber used in the mine, ten new trees are planted to replace it. “There’s a real sense that this whole enterprise is being operated ethically. The bonus is such a magnificent gem.”

“Here was a natural gem that changes color in daylight, indoor light, even candlelight,” she recalls. “Yet Zultanite can easily blend with gemstones of almost any other color, especially some of my favorites - pink sapphires, green gemstones, diamonds, just about anything. It’s really amazing.”

What’s so astounding about Zultanite is its color change properties, a phenomenon known as pleochroism. The vast majority of gemstones are either green, red or blue, but Zultanite displays a wide range of colors, from kiwi greens with flashes of yellow in sunlight, to rich champagnes and cognac-like colors in indoor lighting and raspberry hues in candlelight. The subtle color play is flattering to most complexions and complementary to most neutral colors. Although other diaspores (the family of gems that Zultanite belongs to) can be found around the world, only the gems from this single mine in Turkey can accurately be referred to and marketed as Zultanite (www.zultgems.com). The name Zultanite refers to the 36 Sultans who ruled the Ottomon Empire from 1299 to 1923, prior to the founding of the Republic of Turkey. Throughout their reign, the

So amazing, in fact, that Courtney, who travels the world looking for unusual and rare beautiful gems, decided to visit the only working Zultanite mine, situated high in the Anatolian Mountains of Turkey. Unlike some of the Dickensian mining settings found in the 19th century, the Zultanite mine is operated under modern 21st century standards. Workers receive competitive salaries and are fully insured, the stones are harvested from the mine under strict environmental safety standards. To garner

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Dream 20K yellow gold drop earrings by Daniel Gibbings featuring 33.94 carats of Zultanite with ruby accents. www.DanielGibbingsJewelry.com

Selim's Cuff in 14K yellow gold, brass and sterling silver cuff featuring 50.72 carats of Zultanite along with fancy and white diamonds. www.LanceFischer.com

Sultans employed as many as 92 artisans to create jewelry just for their use. They never, however, had the chance to use their native gem. In the late 1970s some clean, colorchange gems were found in Turkey and caused a sensation, but it wasn’t until the mid-2000s that enough higher quality, better cut gems were available. Priced similarly to Tanzanite, Zultanite is more expensive and less available in larger sizes that exhibit the color change characteristic more prominently. The rarest Zultanite specimens exhibit chatoyancy, or “cat’s eye effect”, giving a cabochon-cut gem a singular band reflection along with the color change. Its splendid characteristics have garnered Zultanite quite a fan club both in the United States and abroad. British designer Stephen Webster has found Zultanite to be ideally suited to his dramatic flair in fine jewelry. “If there is a chance to work with a new material that I feel has a 56

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place in the world of Webster, I want to be there early,” says Webster. “I’m particularly interested in the phenomenon of color change stones and it’s compelling to be able to offer my customers a gem that has a point of difference from the marketplace.” The versatility of Zultanite can be seen in the jewelry featured on these pages. While the spectacular color-change characteristics must be seen in person to be believed, Zultanite lends itself to a variety of specialty and fancy cuts. The gem is a perfect foil to other colored gemstones and diamonds. Perhaps due to its ability to change colors, Zultanite is said to stimulate the mind’s ability to examine different points of view in issues and arguments, making it the gem of choice for mediators, scientists, therapist and doctors. 

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Sultan's Shield Collar by designer Stephen Webster in 18K white gold set with pavĂŠ white diamonds with a 95.20-carat Zultanite centerstone. Matching one-of-akind 18K earrings with pave white diamonds and pearshaped centerstones of Zultanite (16.80-carats each).

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India Story by Michael Sloyer Photos by Michael & Alan Sloyer

ndia, a palette of colors splashed and splattered across a gigantic canvas, is abstraction personified. At first glance, the chaos and crowds confound. Poverty is ubiquitous. Begging is persistent. Everything is for sale. Honking is performed liberally amidst a backdrop of repressive traffic. The concept of personal space does not exist. But this chaos is only at first glance. 58

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On second glance, the chaos becomes organized. The crowds become endearing. Personal space doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem all that necessary. And suddenly, you find that you have 1.2 billion friends. India is a feast for the senses, but for the visually and photographically inclined, this dramatic country is especially thrilling. This past November, my father and I embarked on a two week journey across India. We set out with one piece

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Chinese ﬁshing nets at sunset Fort Kochi, Kerala

of luggage each, an endless supply of trail mix, and an intense desire to see, to learn, and to experience. We were fortunate to travel with several basic comforts, but this did not stop us from traveling with a backpacker’s state of mind. And as the eastern religions teach us, it is our state of mind, not our physical body that is our ultimate reality. We began the journey in Delhi, the nation’s capital

and the epicenter of all things chaotic. Armed with our Nikon DSLRs, we explored and captured the narrow streets of Old Delhi where human foot traffic competes with tuk tuks, rickshaws, automobiles, vespas, and the not so occasional farm animal. From Delhi, we travelled to Agra, the home of the Taj Mahal. Given all the hype about the Taj and its status as one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World, I had prepared Spring/Summer 2013

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TAJ MAHAL

myself for disappointment. Could one building possibly be worth the near death experience of traversing the roads from Delhi to Agra? But this architectural gem did not disappoint. In fact, it did just the opposite. It exhilarated, it provoked, and it inspired. As I entered through the famed gateway, I marveled at the symmetry of the four imposing minarets, the change in hue of the white marble against the setting sun, and the cypress trees lining the reflection pools. The culmination of both man and nature was utterly breathtaking. After this rather emotional experience, we 60

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travelled on to Jaipur, the â&#x20AC;&#x153;pink cityâ&#x20AC;? and the capital of the semi desert lands of Rajasthan. In Jaipur, we enjoyed the opportunity to ride elephants up to the beautiful Amber Fort, explored the palaces of the maharajas, and browsed the colorful gems shops that seemed to be as omnipresent as the hawkers and beggars. Our next stop was Varanasi, the spiritual heart of India and for us, the most visually charismatic. Life in the city began before sunrise as thousands of Hindu pilgrims from all over the world headed down to the banks of the

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Jal Mahal (Water Palace) Jaipur, Rajasthan

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Amer Fort Jaipur, Rajasthan

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Ganges River. As dawn broke over the river and the mist lifted, we observed in reverence as the devotees performed ablutions in the chilly waters. With their emergence from the water came feelings of lightness and freedom as they had symbolically washed away the sins of their former selves. Between clicks of the camera, my father and I managed our own time for prayers and mediation. After sunrise, the ghats (a series of steps leading down to a body of water, particularly a holy river) along the banks burst into action. Young Brahmin boys read aloud from the Holy Scriptures, wandering Sadhus lined the narrow alleys with their begging bowls and elderly priests marked the faces of pilgrims with colorful paints and holy ash. The cremation ghat embraced its role as the last sacred stop of this human life; where bodies leave their earthly pasts behind and embark on new journeys in the next cycle of life.

claimed that road rage does not exist. We explored the hanging gardens, marveled at the arcing promenade (called the “Queen’s necklace”) overlooking the Arabian Sea, and got a peak into everyday life for the 21 million residents of the city. We even managed to squeeze in a yoga session as we attempted to shake off the chronic entropy in favor of a more centered consciousness. Yoga + India = zen. When all was said and done and we had made our way back to the states, we reflected on our photos and our memories. The photos told a colorful story of an Indian nation, its people and its history. The memories told a slightly different story: one of personal growth as well as a deeper understanding and appreciation for the diversity of our world.Ω

Night time in Varanasi brought a more festive atmosphere, though no less spiritually and visually enchanting. The main event was the Hindu Aarti Ceremony at the Ganges River ghats. Thousands of pilgrims and other visitors watched in awe as the Brahmin priests swung their Aarti lamps. The fire lit up the sky and incense smoke soon formed billowing opaque clouds. The singing of the Om Jai Jagdish Hare, a devotional song to Hindu deities, and the rhythmic beats of the myriad percussion instruments combined to create a surreal atmosphere From Varanasi, we flew down south to the state of Kerala, where the climate is tropical. We explored European fishing ports that felt like journeys back in time and spent a night out on a houseboat drifting in the peaceful backwaters. We relished the simple yet endless beauty of the agrarian landscapes. The last stop on our trip was the rumbling, bustling city of Mumbai. Here, one kilometer taxi rides lasted in excess of an hour as frustrated drivers unconvincingly

Aarti Ceremony Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi

Michael introducing himself

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TOP: River boats lined up to transport the Hindu devotees down the Ganges River,Varanasi BELOW: Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) Jaipur, Rajasthan

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