Eclat International 105

Page 1

Fall/Winter 2013 $6.95

hermès. time reinvented.

international A Lifestyle Magazine

Sienna Master Jewelers arceau le temps suspendu forgetting time, just for a moment, before recapturing it again. one press on the pushbutton makes the hours and minutes vanish at will. meanwhile, the central

The Rediscovery of the Power of the Pearl

second hand, unperturbed, pursues its ardent race against time. while the illusion works its magic, the movement continues to beat thanks to a complication exclusive to hermès. another push is all it takes for time to resume its onward march .

1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com

EclatCover105.indd 1

Chanel Pearl Necklace 11/2/13 3:37 PM


EclatCover105.indd 2

11/2/13 3:37 PM


03_05TOC_Ads.indd 3

11/2/13 9:33 AM


A Lifestyle Magazine

Fall/Winter 2013

No. 105

TABLE OF CONTENTS

20

the classics redefined The

24

rediscovery of the pow er of the pearl

Reinvent Yourself

40

Interview with Jaeger-LeCoultre Brand Ambassador Diane Kruger

50

44

Vermeer, Rembrandt, and Hals

Master Jewelers 56 Siena, Italy hasn’t changed much over the last 700 years

éclat International is published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the October/November issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to éclat International at 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557 4

03_05TOC_Ads.indd 4

international

11/3/13 12:40 PM


03_05TOC_Ads.indd 5

11/2/13 9:34 AM


(9868 )

Editor'S Outline

With the days getting shorter and the longer evenings lending themselves to festive indoor activities, we think about holiday finery. Throughout history the magnificent beauty and luster of pearls have inspired designers. Pearls occur as natural phenomena, but can be fabricated by man as well.

20 24 40 44

The Classics Redefined acquaints us with Turkish born designer, Lika Behar, showing us how she combines Old World techniques with a modern flair to create elegant jewelry with timeless appeal. The Rediscovery of the Power of the Pearl demonstrates why pearls are the hottest gemstone in fine jewelry right now. This is primarily because of their versatility and infinite variety. In the article Interview with Jaeger-LeCoultre Brand Ambassador Diane Kruger, the actress Diane Kruger allows us a glimpse of how she has succeeded in remaining true to herself while seeking reinvention. The jewelry worlds’ trend-setting Italian fall jewelry fairs highlight how Holiday 2013 will be all about big jewelry with lots of sparkle; enjoy the exquisite collections featured in Master Jewelers. The art of the Dutch Golden Age was a celebration of Dutch independence, Dutch identity

50

and the luxuries afforded by international trade. The exhibit Vermeer, Rembrandt, and Hals: Masterpieces of Dutch Painting from the Mauritshuis at The Frick Collection, New York illustrates what the Dutch elite valued.

6

along with the world around it. Siena does remain medieval in appearance and its long-standing traditions.

international

06_09EditorsOutlineMastHead.indd 6

Eclat #105 Fall/Winter 2013

56

Siena, Italy has not changed much over the last 700 years, but it has modernized

11/2/13 9:34 AM

9868


LeagasDelaney.de

(9868 )

helioro by kim.

Eclat #105 Fall/Winter 2013

simply, beautifully irresistible.

EXQUISITE TIMEPIECES & JEWELRY 路 ESTABLISHED 1878 700 FIFTH AVENUE & 55TH STREET NEW YORK 212.397-9000 OPEN SUNDAYS 12 TO 5

At the best Addresses in Germany and in London, Paris, Madrid, Vienna, New York and Beijing. www.wempe.com Just like a magnificent moment that never ends: nine seamlessly joined strands of gold combine to form the Helioro ring. In 18 k rose gold and with brilliant-cut diamonds. From $1,865.

9868 eclat_105 fall-wnter helioro 3ring_01.indd 1 06_09EditorsOutlineMastHead.indd 7

10/21/139:34 4:29 11/2/13 AMPM


A Lifestyle Magazine Fall/Winter 2013

PUBLISHER

Bertram Kalisher

No. 105

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind

ART DIRECTOR

Raj Walia

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jay Lazar

EXECUTIVE OFFICE

Editorial Advertising Circulation 257 Adams Lane Hewlett, NY 11557 Tel: 516-295-2516 Fax: 516-374-5060

ONLINE EDITOR

Samuel Siskind

PARIS OFFICE

AlmaKarina Agency Thomas Claisse and Karina Rikun 36 rue Fabert 75007 Paris, France +33(7)60461213 contact@almakarina.com

SALES & MARKETING

Richard Kalisher Max Mogil

W W W . Z E N I T H - W A T C H E S . C O M

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Carol Besler Lorraine DePasque Bertram Kalisher Jeff Prine Andrew Siskind Hannah M. Zweifler

ÉCLAT International is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in ÉCLAT International. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited manuscripts. 8

international

06_09EditorsOutlineMastHead.indd 8

11/2/13 9:34 AM


F

O

L

L

O

W

Y

O

U

R

O

W

N

S

T

A

R

H E R I TAG E S TA R O P E N

A subtle blend of refi nement and sophisticated horological expertise, this W W W . Z E N I T H - W A T C H E S . C O M

exquisitely feminine model is powered by the legendary El Primero movement – as it proudly reveals. A mother-of-pearl dial graced with a heart-shaped opening showcases the 36,000 vibrations per hour enabled by its high frequency, while the rose gold cushion-shaped case sparkles with diamonds and a sapphire-set crown composing a vibrant ode to womanhood.

Zenith_HQ • Visual: StarOpen • Magazine: 06570 StarOpen (US) • Language: English • Issue: 29.10.2013 11/2/13

06_09EditorsOutlineMastHead.indd 9

9:34 AM


Showcase

Edited by Jeff Prine

The craftsmanship found in the finest jewelry rivals that of any piece of fine art—as these examples testify to. The intrinsic value of precious gemstones and metals is further enhanced by the creativity of the jeweler, who envisions them as miniature, wearable masterpieces. These are treasures meant to be worn and adored. Super Duper Here’s a tongue-in-chic pendant that pays tribute to one of the world’s greatest superheroes, Superman. It’s a “Kryptonite Pyramid,” an alluring reference to one of Superman’s foibles. Designer Lauren Harper may have some fun at the superhero’s expense, but the chrysoprase, diamond and 18K necklace is a show stopper. Lauren Harper Collection www.laurenharpercollection.com

Royal Pair The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge aren’t the only royal pair worth noting these days. Rina Limor pairs two of the hottest gems in this pair of elegant 18K drop earrings: deep purple amethysts with bright green tsavorites. Rina Limor. Rina Limor www.rinalimor.com

Brilliant Green Just because a precious gemstone has a brilliant green color doesn’t necessarily mean it’s an emerald. In recent years, designers have expanded their gemstone vocabulary with other green gems. Simon G unleashes a stunning gem in the form of green tourmaline in this pair of 18K white gold earrings. Accented with white diamonds, these earrings make for a red-carpet worthy statement. SIMON G www.simongjewelry.com 10

international

10_19Showcase.indd 10

11/2/13 9:48 AM


10_19Showcase.indd 11

11/2/13 9:39 AM


Showcase

Edited by Jeff Prine

Haute HeartFelt Avant-garde designer Katey Brunini has a long history of derring do in her jewelry designs, mixing metals and materials, often with natural forms in gemstones. In one of her latest designs, Robot Heart, she crossed into the tech world, too. The sterling silver and 18k gold heart features a massive 29.66 carat opal doublet accented with diamonds. For an even more spectacular touch, Brunini incorporated a light up center that blinks in various patterns much like an excited heartbeat. K. Brunini Jewels www. kbrunini.com

Sweet Smell of Success Haute perfumerie House of Sillage has a “nose” for the rarified and limited. The first and only one of ten madeto-order House of Sillage Private Collection Travel Sprays features a glorious gecko, adorned with more than 2 carats of Colombian emeralds, climbing a leafy vine embellished with more than 4 carats of round brilliant-cut diamonds, all handset on an 18K yellow gold cylinder. This exquisite new design, which took months to execute, was created in-house and comes with one of each of the brand’s six different fragrances along with the Certificate of Authenticity, packaged in a Birdseye Maple lacquered gift box. House of Sillage www.houseofsillage.com

Unique Specimen Sea horses are a perennial favorite subjects for jewelers and this ring by Lydia Courteille is the latest example. Thanks to the delicate shades of color provided by the gemstones, the sea horse seems to float along an invisible ocean. The 18K oxidized gold ring has an opal centerstone along with garnets, sapphires and amethysts. Lydia Courteille www.lydiacourteille.com

12

international

10_19Showcase.indd 12

11/2/13 9:39 AM

Carla.in


carla FINE

morrison JEWELRY

DESIGN

www.carlamorrison.com (720) 564-9285

Carla.indd 1 10_19Showcase.indd 13

10/21/13 11/2/13 9:39 6:38 AM PM


Showcase

Edited by Jeff Prine

Armed Guard These definitely aren’t your mother’s (or grandmother’s) pearls. Hector Hassey presents his “Octopus” necklace: a strand of 12- to 15-millimeter Tahitian pearls accented with 18K white gold and diamonds—truly a treasure from the depths. Hector Hassey www.hectorhassey.com

Horn of Plenty British jeweler Shaun Leane injects a rock ‘n roll edge to his designs. Perfect example? These slick and powerful white diamond Sabre tusk earrings command an arresting impression. Gracefully framing the face, sweeping lines of bright 18K gold are set with brilliant white diamonds, catching the light with every movement. Shaun Leane www.shaunleane.com

Swirling Sensation Designer James W. Currens created a special ring to commemorate the Pantone Color of the Year: emerald. His platinum ring, “Tropical Storm,” shows off a 22.10-carat emerald surrounding by swirls of diamond pave. J.W. Currens www. jwcurrens.com

14

international

10_19Showcase.indd 14

11/2/13 9:39 AM

Josep


JOSEPH MURRAY

AVAILABLE AT BERGDORF GOODMAN AND OTHER FINE RETAILERS THROUGHOUT THE U.S JOSEPHMURRAYJEWELRY.COM 718.832.7865

JosephMurrayAd.indd1530 10_19Showcase.indd

10/3/12 9:39 3:58AM PM 11/2/13


Showcase

Edited by Jeff Prine

Blue Waters This 18k and 22k necklace by Jonathan Lee Rutledge incorporates a series of opal doublets accented with diamonds. The shimmering colors found in these opals resemble lagoons and bays one might find near a Caribbean island. Jonathan Lee Rutledge www.rutledgejewelry.com

Flight of Fancy When sunlight hits the fluttering wings of a butterfly, they appears to glisten and sparkle like gemstones. This butterfly brooch replicates that effect through a combination of gems, stones and crystals. The sterling silver with 24K gold insect is made from agate accented with tourmalines, citrines and cubic zirconia. A rare specimen, indeed! Di Baggio www.dibaggio.com

Hand It to You Designer Anthony Lent says his style is inspired by nature, sculpture, celestial bodies, and creatures both wonderful and frightening. There’s nothing to be afraid of in this 18K gold and platinum ring. The yellow beryl centerstone literally gets a helping hand from shanks that resemble outstretched hands. Anthony lent www.anthonylent.com

16

international

10_19Showcase.indd 16

11/2/13 9:39 AM


©2012 EBEL – REF 1216097

Movado/Imtech mg003702a Proof 1

FOR ME. Onde, new from EBEL. Steel, 18K rose gold & diamonds. David Orgell 310 273 6660 King Jewelers 866 675 1909 Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry 800 543 GEMS London Jewelers 516 627 7475 EBEL.COM

10_19Showcase.indd 17

11/2/13 9:39 AM


10_19Showcase.indd 18

11/2/13 9:39 AM


10_19Showcase.indd 19

11/2/13 9:39 AM


Rosalie 24K gold and oxidized sterling silver pendant necklace with rose-cut emerald centerstone surrounded by champagne diamonds

The Classics Redefined

T

he fact that Lika Behar grew up in Istanbul, known as the bridge between Europe and Asia, the ancient world and the 21st century, has given the designer a distinct vision that is reflected in her jewelry. A self-defined classicist, Behar has a longtime love of ancient art and architecture. Even as a youngster she was enthralled by class trips to such major historic sites as the ancient Byzantine Cistern, the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Topkapi Palace. She later cajoled her family into taking her to other historic sites such as the city of Ephesus. She celebrated her ninth birthday at the restaurant atop the famous Galata tower built by the Genoese in 1348. "The stories from history were much more interesting than any fairy tales or fiction."

20

20_23Lika.indd 20

In retrospect, designing jewelry may have been Behar's destiny. She took a circuitous route to her present career. She came to the United States to earn her BA in Economics and a Master's in Business Administration. She worked for a major bank for several years before being lured back into something creative. Behar then worked as a children's wear designer and as an apparel sourcing agent for many well-known designers, such as Donna Karan, Juicy Couture, and Calvin Klein. While successful in the fashion industry, she felt the hunger for a new challenge. "I

was in Istanbul having dinner with my friend and her husband when he suddenly said, 'Why don't you do jewelry? You were born into it'". Her family's heritage and business had focused on antiquities and estate jewelry. With her father's encouragement she opened her own jewelry business in 2008. All her pieces are handmade in Istanbul with a nod to history. Yet her designs are very wearable. They aren’t the type of jewels that only come out on special occasions. Behar has the uncanny knack of taking ageold looks and interpreting them for a 21st century customer. She infuses her pieces with femininity and romance. It’s what she calls: "casual elegance." "It's important to me that my jewelry is suitable for everyday wear just like your favorite pair of jeans," Behar explains.

international

11/2/13 9:39 AM


Turkish born designer Lika Behar combines Old World techniques with a modern flair that has made her jewelry the choice of many due to its elegant, timeless appeal

Rosalie 24K gold and oxidized sterling silver drop earrings with rose-cut round and pear-shaped rubies accented by champagne diamonds

Rosalie 24K gold and oxidized sterling silver ring with pear-shaped, rose-cut blue-gray sapphire slice surrounded by cognac diamonds Ancora 24K gold and oxidized sterling silver bracelet fall/winter 2013 21

20_23Lika.indd 21

11/2/13 9:39 AM


Which designers do you admire?

Who are your style icons?

"Armani for his effortless classicism, Chanel for creating revolution in the way women dressed and their lifestyle. Moschino for whimsy, Prada for wearability and timeless designs, as well as Donna Karan who is the queen of draping."

"Jackie O and Elizabeth Taylor. Ideally a mixture of both is my ideal."

How do you describe your style point of view?

“I am constantly on the road domestically. I visit stores—I might be gone a week or two every month, traveling to fine jewelry stores for training and trunk shows. Of course, I go to Turkey at least four to five times a year.”

"I am a classicist. But I also hate anything that looks 'dated.' I follow fashion to a certain degree; enough to keep my own style fresh." How has growing up in Turkey influenced your design aesthetic? "I'm a huge fan of ancient history, hence I love pure 24K gold and pure silver. Ancient jewelry was handmade without using metal alloys; only pure metals using simple tools. I shun anything than can be mass produced." How has your background in the garment business helped you to excel in jewelry? “I believe it gave me an uncanny ability to ‘coordinate and merchandise’ jewelry in unusual, yet wonderful, color combinations. Like mixing precious metals, layering pieces together and, most important, allowing my pieces to work with what a woman already owns even if it is from another jewelry line.” How would you describe the typical Lika Behar customer? "My typical customer is a museum-going, art-loving, history appreciating, intelligent woman who does not have an ostentatious style. She looks for originality and above all, lasting beauty.”

You are always traveling around the country for trade shows and trunk shows with retailers. How often do you travel?

What pieces from your collection do you feel are suited to just about every type of woman? Why? “The Krissy necklace, which is a classic, with its adjustable neckline. My Pompeii rings are iconic and very affordable, offering a fantastic value. My sapphire slices with diamond pave around them are available in various sizes and are perfectly suited to go casual to dressy. The fact that I offer bangles in custom sizes without an upcharge—and with only a three-week wait—is a huge advantage.” One hundred years from now, what would you like historians to say about Lika Behar jewelry? “Timeless. The original pieces from the first 10 to 20 years are as wearable today as they were 100 year ago. It was affordable then and still very collectible…” The Lika Behar Collection is available at leading independent jewelers throughout the United States. For more information please visit www.likabehar.com 

Stack bracelets in oxidized sterling silver and 24K in various sizes 22

20_23Lika.indd 22

international

11/3/13 7:38 AM


20_23Lika.indd 23

11/2/13 9:39 AM


Tempest, a one-of-a-kind necklace of baroque white South Sea cultured pearls, with serpent-like vines of diamonds enveloping the pearls. Set in 18k white gold 24

international

24_31RediscoveryOfPowerPearl.indd 24

11/2/13 9:39 AM


by Carol Besler

South Sea pearl earrings from the Mastoloni Signature collection, surrounded by a fan of black and white diamonds set in 18k white gold

P

earls are the hottest gemstone in fine jewelry right now, primarily because of their versatility and infinite variety. Pearls have the power to project any style, from heritage to contemporary, classic to edgy. While the strand is still a favorite classic, jewelry designers have been transforming the way pearls are being worn, using them to create some of today’s hottest looks, from long multiple strands and glamorous tassel earrings to gem encrusted bangles and lush stacking rings.

“Layering is one of the hottest trends in pearl jewelry, either with multiple strands or pearls mixed with chains, in long silhouettes like opera-length or even longer,” says Kathy Grenier, marketing director of the Cultured Pearl Association of America. “Baroque pearls in every pearl type are also popular. These unusual, unexpected pearl shapes have a personality.” Ray Mastoloni of Mastoloni Pearls agrees: “We’re experiencing a surge in popularity with more unique items fall/winter 2013 25

24_31RediscoveryOfPowerPearl.indd 25

11/2/13 9:39 AM


Rose gold pendant set with diamonds and brown pearl by Ramon

– pieces that incorporate baroque shapes and highlight the irregularities of the pearls,” he says. “These styles are lending themselves to a sort of pearl rediscovery. They’re also pulling a younger demographic towards pearls – the notion of ‘your grandmother’s pearls’ is on its way to extinction. There is no question that pearls are back and bigger than ever.” Seed pearls are also making a big comeback, and are perfect for the multi-strand tassels that epitomize today’s “roaring twenties” look in jewelry. In any form, pearls are also the ideal partner to contrast with black diamonds, onyx, black jade and other gems in the black-and-white styles that dominate today’s collections. “Color – or the lack of color right now – is part of 26

the allure of pearls,” says Grenier. “White is in a highly visible bright light now.” On the other hand, black pearls are perfect for today’s black-on-black designs, with black zircon, black diamonds, onyx and other black stones. Or for contrast, white pearls with black gems – or black pearls with white gems, especially diamonds – showcase this fall’s popular black-and-white look in jewelry and fashion. Pearls can even be matched to the desired color of gold, and they are the perfect neutral next to any colored gemstone. “The pearl classics are certainly highly visible this season – the appeal of pearl never goes out of style,” says Grenier. “It is the jewelry icon of confident feminine style.” It is also one of

international

24_31RediscoveryOfPowerPearl.indd 26

11/3/13 7:36 AM


From simple strands to avant-garde designs, the translucent beauty of the pearl has never been more in fashion

Drop earrings in 18k gold with golden baroque South Sea pearls, set with natural cognac diamonds, from Yvel

fall/winter 2013 27

24_31RediscoveryOfPowerPearl.indd 27

11/2/13 9:40 AM


Mikimoto baroque black South Sea cultured pearl and white South Sea cultured pearl and diamond pendant set in 18k white gold, from the Stingray collection

the most accessible of gemstones. “What is so remarkable about pearls is that there is a price point for everyone. Fortunately there are many varieties. They range from affordable to rare and costly. In essence, the women with a small budget or the women without a budget can all have access to pearl.” All of these factors combine to elevate the status of the pearl. “The classic strand and stud are, and always will be, an essential 28

staple in every woman’s jewelry collection,” says Mastoloni, “but in the past few years, we’ve seen a rising popularity of what I like to refer to as power pearls: a simple strand that makes a quiet but effective statement of power. We saw them all over the campaign trail last year and it is easily the most popular accessory in any female power player’s wardrobe.” 

international

24_31RediscoveryOfPowerPearl.indd 28

11/2/13 9:40 AM


Sterling silver ring with black onyx and freshwater cultured pearls, by Tiffany & Co.

The Bolero pendant from Utopia, represents one of the most important trends in jewelry – the open-worked “lantern-style” pendant

fall/winter 2013 29

24_31RediscoveryOfPowerPearl.indd 29

11/2/13 9:40 AM


C

ultured pearls can be divided into four main categories: South Sea pearls from the oyster Pinctada maxima, grown in the warm waters off Australia, the Philippines and Indonesia, ranging from white to spectacular gold; Tahitian pearls from Pinctada margaritifera oysters in French Polynesia, with colors from multi-color peacock to black; Akoya pearls from the Pinctada fucata oyster, grown in the cool to temperate seas near Japan and China, with a brilliant luster in cream to pink to gold; and less expensive freshwater pearls, cultivated in ponds, mostly in China, with natural colors ranging from cream and gray to pink and lavender. Cultured pearls are pearls cultivated by inserting a nucleus into a mollusk living in either fresh or salt water. Akoya pearls are cultured saltwater pearls from the Akoya oyster. Freshwater pearls are any pearls, cultured or natural, from freshwater dwelling mollusks. Black Tahitian pearls are large, dark pearls grown in French Polynesia. South Sea pearls are large pearls cultivated in the warm South Sea between northern Australia and southern China. Nacre (also known as mother of pearl) is the compound secreted by the oyster that forms the pearl. Cultured freshwater pearls are solid nacre. Cultured saltwater pearls have a nucleus and then many layers of nacre, the number and thickness of which influence the quality of the pearl. Solid nacre is not necessarily better; freshwater pearls are still inexpensive despite being solid nacre since they are easy to cultivate and often baroque instead of round. Baroque: These are off-round, irregular-shaped pearls, spontaneous growth pearls that have irregular shapes. They are favored by many jewelry designers looking for something less formal (and less expensive) than a perfect round.

Tassel necklace with cultured pearls, from the Mastoloni Signature collection, capped with white diamonds on a chain set with cultured pearls and black diamonds 30

international

24_31RediscoveryOfPowerPearl.indd 30

11/2/13 9:40 AM


Victoria & Albert Museum showcases the Pearl

P

Grand Jete, gold with diamonds and baroque pearls, Geoffrey Rowlandson, London, 1999 © Geoffrey Rowlandson

Necklace, natural pearls set in coloured gold, probably England c.1850 Pearls © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

24_31RediscoveryOfPowerPearl.indd 31

earls are the subject of a major exhibit at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum from September 21 to January 19, 2014. The exhibit explores the beauty and allure of pearls; a symbol of status and wealth across many cultures, from the Holy Roman Empire to the present day. The collection includes a pearl drop earring worn by Charles I at his execution in 1649, magnificent pearl tiaras worn by European nobility and a necklace of cultured pearls given to Marilyn Monroe by Joe DiMaggio in 1954. Organized in partnership with the Qatar Museums Authority, the exhibit begins with an insight into the natural history of pearls showcased by a rare collection of mollusks from the Qatar Museums Authority and the pearl-fishing trade from across the Arabian Gulf to Europe and Asia. It consists of over 200 pieces of jewelry and works of art showcasing the extraordinary variety of colors and shapes of natural and cultured pearls. A film about the Pearls exhibition can be seen on the V&A Channel: www.vam.ac.uk/channel. 

fall/winter 2013 31

11/2/13 9:40 AM


PEARLS

TEAM : Photography : Thomas Claisse @AlmaKarina Agency Art Direction : Karina Rikun @ AlmaKarina Agency

32_39Pearls.indd 32

CHANEL

"Colibri" ring in 18-K white gold set with 234 brilliant-cut diamonds for 1.5 carat and a 11.5mm Indonesian cultured pearl. "Plume de Chanel" collection.

11/3/13 8:07 AM


CHANEL

"CamĂŠlia Dentelle" brooch in 18-K white gold set with1225 brilliant-cut diamonds for 11 carats, and a 14.5mm Australian cultured pearl. "Secrets d'Orient" collection.

32_39Pearls.indd 33

fall/winter 2013 33

11/3/13 8:07 AM


CHANEL

34

32_39Pearls.indd 34

international

"Perles de Camélia" ring in 18-K white gold set with 411 brilliant-cut diamond for 5 carats, 5 black spinels beads for 1 carat, 3 grey agate beads for 1 carat, 5 orange citrine beads for 1 carat, 7 brown quartz beads for 2 carats and 6 Japanese cultured pearls. "Jardin de Camélias" collection. "Perles de Camélia" earrings in 18-K white gold set with 92 brilliantcut diamonds for 2 carats, 16 grey agate faceted beads for 10.5 carats, 10 yellow citrine faceted beads for 4.5 carats, 13 black spinels beads for 4 carats, 36 brown quartz beads for 14 carats and 25 Japanese cultured pearls. "Jardin de Camélias" collection.

11/3/13 8:08 AM


VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Ailes nocturnes long necklace and detachable motif worn as a clip, WG, diamonds, onyx, white cultured pearls and 6 oval-cut rubies.

32_39Pearls.indd 35

fall/winter 2013 35

11/3/13 8:08 AM


DE GRISOGONO 36

32_39Pearls.indd 36

international

Earrings in grey gold set with 436 white diamonds and 2 white pearls.

11/3/13 8:08 AM


DE GRISOGONO

Ring in grey gold set with one white pearl, 51 amethysts, 103 white diamonds, 62 brown diamonds, 48 emeralds, 184 blue sapphires, 92 yellow sapphires, 49 orange sapphires, and 52 pink sapphires.

32_39Pearls.indd 37

fall/winter 2013 37

11/3/13 8:08 AM


CHOPARD 38

32_39Pearls.indd 38

international

Necklace from Red Carpet collection in yellow gold set with 12 golden pearls and 524 diamonds.

11/3/13 8:08 AM


DIOR

"Gros Caprice" ring, white gold, diamonds and cultured pearl.

32_39Pearls.indd 39

fall/winter 2013 39

11/3/13 8:08 AM


Reinvent Yourself

Interview with Jaeger-LeCoultre Brand Ambassador Diane Kruger

Diane Kruger wearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin by Marcel Hartmann 40

international

40_43DianeKruger.indd 40

11/2/13 9:40 AM


You have been associated with Jaeger-LeCoultre for six years now. What impresses you about the brand? My mom gave me a Reverso watch for my 18th Birthday. I still wear it and it is very special to me. Then, in 2007 I was in a movie which showed at the Venice Film Festival and I needed a special piece of jewelry to go with my dress. I saw the Jaeger-LeCoultre diamond 101 watch and just absolutely fell in love with it, so my relationship with Jaeger-LeCoultre is an ongoing one. I truly love their watches. How would you describe Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Women Collection? The watches in the women’s collection are timeless and elegant. I love the fact that they are understated and classy. The watches are beautiful objects. I don't wear much jewelry, and I prefer wearing one of their watches over a bracelet. Right now I wear my rose gold Rendez-Vous for day. I think it is very elegant and sophisticated, yet the roundness makes it young and flirty. And I wear my diamond 101 for nighttime. What type of watch best fits your temperament? I like the rose gold Reverso best. I love how the gold fuses with my skin tone. I like to be understated yet put together, so I feel that the rose gold Reverso reflects that beautifully. The latest Jaeger-LeCoultre film, "Reinvent Yourself " in which you star is based on the concept of reinvention. In a parallel to your personal life, what part has reinvention played? You have had a career as a ballerina, fashion model and now an actress. What do you think drives this? My career changes were driven by my ongoing belief that everything is possible in life, and that if I put my heart and soul into something, I can achieve anything. I like the idea that our lives are constantly evolving and changing and nothing is ever set in stone. I strive to stay true to myself even as I continuously respond to the changes and choices that are presented. Which director would you most like to work with? Michael Haneke. I love all of his movies, and “Amour” was my favourite film of last year. In 2013, you played in three movies and a television series, and another movie is also scheduled for 2014 – “Midnight Sun” with Jesse Eisenberg. You have been quite busy. Tell us about that. I had a wonderful, creative year. It has been exciting to work so much. I am looking forward to spending the rest of the year in Paris enjoying my friends and getting some much needed rest. Hopefully, all the hard work will result in beautiful films! “The Bridge” was your first television series. Why this choice, and how is it different from a film shooting? Cable networks such as F/X, HBO or AMC have created a golden era of television, with material that is often stronger than what is being done in the movies, especially for women. I was excited to get the opportunity to explore such a complex character over 13 episodes. That being said, I will of course continue to make movies, both in French and English.

Diane Kruger wearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Night & Day by Mark Abrahams fall/winter 2013 41

40_43DianeKruger.indd 41

11/2/13 9:40 AM


How do you think the attitude towards acting/actors has changed in recent years? Well, I think there is less of a mystery when it comes to that. It is often mostly a business. But I still think that we are fascinated by movies and the people that make us feel things. Film is a universal language. No matter what language one speaks, it is a powerful voice. At least for me, there is nothing better than going to the movies...sharing this moment with others in the dark room...feeling others emotions...I always leave invigorated. What do you love most about the world of cinema? I love watching films that inspire or that teach me something, or movies that transport me to another world. It’s fun to live in someone else’s imagination for a while. That is the gift of moviemaking, and I love being a part of that. What inspires you in fashion? The possibility to be a different woman each day; to be able to express my mood on the outside by what I wear. You are a fashion icon. How would you describe your style? What is your signature, and how does Jaeger-LeCoultre come into it? I think the word “icon” is overused. I don't follow trends, but I think fashion is a wonderful art form. For me, everything is in the details and in the craftsmanship and that’s where JaegerLeCoultre factors into it. I appreciate the brand’s understatement and commitment to quality. What are your top style tips? Always be yourself. Don`t follow fashion, but dress to your mood and personality. Don`t be scared. On the fashion side, what is the one thing you absolutely cannot live without? A good pair of jeans and a comfy pair of flats. What is the best advice about life you have ever received? Live every day as if it`s your last. 

42

international

40_43DianeKruger.indd 42

Diane Kruger wearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin High Jewellery by Mark Abrahams

11/2/13 9:40 AM


Diane Kruger wearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duetto Duo on a Valextra strap by Mark Abrahams

40_43DianeKruger.indd 43

fall/winter 2013 43

11/2/13 9:40 AM


Master Jewelers Two small focused jewelry shows in Italy preview the trends for Holiday by Carol Besler

G

lamour is back. The new collections introduced at the jewelry world’s trend-setting Italian shows this fall demonstrate that Holiday 2013 will be all about big jewelry with lots of sparkle – minimalism is out. About J, a small, invitation-only jewelry show held in Venice, and its sister show, VicenzaOro, held in nearby Vicenza, are the venues for the exhibition of some of the world’s most important jewelry by the top masters of the trade. The designs introduced at these two shows in September will set trends for the coming year, with designs made by jewelers known for their unique, limited-edition collections.

Most of the new collections can be summed up in one word: glamour. Whether it’s the influence of films like “The Great Gatsby” or the release of pent-up demand following the ongoing economic recovery, it is clearly about to become fashionable again to be exquisitely adorned. The pieces on display were big, beautiful and richly set with colored gemstones and diamonds. “Fine jewelry has been, shall we say, keeping a low profile, says Mirella Francia of RCM Gioelli,

which exhibited at both About J and VicenzaOro. “But keeping a low profile just doesn’t make sense in the daily lives of some women. It is better to have one piece of beautiful jewelry than 10 pieces of fashion jewelry with no real intrinsic value.” Filippo Pichiotti of Picchiotti Fine Jewellery concurs that the return to glamour has been a long time coming: “People want to enjoy again.. with fine jewelry, good food, good drinks.... LIFE is coming back.” The design codes of this new luxury are expressed in chandelier earrings, big necklaces, and lush, wrap-around, multiple layered bracelets that coil around the

Pink sapphire and diamond earrings by RCM Gioelli.

44

international

44_49MasterJewelers.indd 44

11/2/13 9:40 AM


A suite of sapphire and diamond jewelry by Picchioti

fall/winter 2013 45

44_49MasterJewelers.indd 45

11/2/13 9:40 AM


Diamond and gold “lantern” pendant with diamonds by Luca Carati.

wrist like a serpent – a lingering reference to the many styles introduced this year to mark the Chinese year of the snake. Volume is key in most of the new collections. One of the most visible trends was the pendant or drop earring shaped like a lantern – most of the pieces being open-worked, to make them light and accessible, and gem-set to make them lush and glamorous. Shoulder grazing drop earrings are also big, with volume created by stations of gemstones and diamonds. Rajesh Kumar of Bapalal Keshavlal, which exhibited many examples of these pieces at Vicenza, calls them “super chandeliers.” In colored gemstones, traditional cuts, rather than the slices and rough cuts we have seen for the past few years, are taking over, and gems are generally high quality, with high color and clarity values. Increasingly, the most successful jewelry makers are the ones who can source top quality gems on a consistent basis, and use them to create unique pieces. Another huge trend, even among the most highend jewelry makers is the use of ice diamonds (also called milky diamonds), which are semi-opaque or cloudy. Their inclusions diffuse the light in a certain way that gives the stones a beautiful, frosty glow. The look complements the vintage, Gatsby-era glamour 46

international

44_49MasterJewelers.indd 46

Diamond and sapphire floral rings from the Sakura collection by Luca Carati

11/2/13 9:41 AM


Icy diamonds, ruby and black diamond earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal

look. The rose cut, with crown or top facets that rise to a point, is part of the trend. The cut was invented before the advent of electricity, when rooms were lit by candlelight, and it is designed to capture the candle’s glow. “It’s a different feel, they’re more vintage,” says Kumar of Bapalal. Organic gem and metal shapes – including “cobblestone” setting arrangements – are still present in some showcases, but there is a new symmetry to fine jewelry that takes us back to the days of Art Deco, with its precise geometry and clean lines. Since black and white combinations are an important part of that look, pearls are playing a significant role in many new collections. Above all, the importance of colored gemstones in fine jewelry, especially the big three, sapphire, ruby and emerald has never been stronger. Brands such as Vendorafa, whose signature style is a finely hand-finished gold surface, are using

Coiled elephant bracelet from the Animalier collection by Roberto Coin

more gemstones in new designs. Even cameos are now being set with gemstones. At Vicenza, entire showcases were devoted to rubysapphire-emerald designs, either alone or in combination – this emphasis on the big three precious gems has not been present for nearly two decades. Bapalal was among the exhibitors that used fine Zambian emerald in many of its pieces – “the new frontier for emeralds,” says Kumar. “They are more intense, less expensive, with a nice color. There has been a lot of speculation with Colombian gems, which has driven up the price.” Fine Tanzanite also made a strong appearance, evidence of the growing importance of highly saturated, high quality gems. Many pieces bearing these gems were exhibited in the context of parures, otherwise known as ornaments, with matching earrings, necklaces and rings – another look that

Emerald and white gold ring from Vendorafa

fall/winter 2013 47

44_49MasterJewelers.indd 47

11/2/13 9:41 AM


Master Jewelers last reigned some time in the early 1990s. One of Italy’s most contemporary jewelry designers, Pasquale Bruni, exhibited a stunning Tanzanite and diamond parure, with necklace, bracelet, ring and earrings, valued at just under $900,000. Carved gems are also playing a role in this new world of high color in jewelry. About J exhibitor Carlo Barberis, a family owned jewelry company based in Valenza, used hand carved violet jade and lapis in some of its one-of-a-kind creations on display at About J. And at Vicenza, Roberto Coin’s new Black Jade collection, featuring African jade was a hit – as was Mr. Coin himself: always a charming presence, he describes the pavé diamonds on one of his outstanding “Animalier” pieces as having a “baby-bottom setting” (no prongs or edges – smooth as a baby’s bottom). It is ultimately this level of high workmanship that distinguishes the jewelry made by the masters of their craft, and at Vicenza and About J, masters abound. 

Ruby and diamond bracelet from the Angelica collection by Stefan Hafner

Earrings and Rings from the Via Roma collection by Rodney Raynor.

48

international

44_49MasterJewelers.indd 48

11/2/13 3:29 PM


BE AT YOUR BEST WITH PARIS AT YOUR DOORSTEP Ideally situated in the heart of the City of Lights and facing the Tuileries Garden, The Westin Paris - Vendôme is just a few steps from the Place Vendôme and the very chic rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Relax in one of our elegantly decorated 428 rooms and suites, featuring the perfect balance of traditional Parisian style and contemporary design and enjoy the magnificent views over Paris. “le First, restaurant boudoir paris” invites to taste authentic and inventive cuisine, in an elegant setting designed by Jacques Garcia. Energize both the body and mind in our spa, the first Six Senses in France.

THE WESTIN PARIS - VENDÔME 3 rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris, France thewestinparis.com

fall/winter 2013 49

44_49MasterJewelers.indd 49

11/2/13 9:41 AM


Vermeer, Rembrandt, and Hals: Masterpieces of Dutch Painting from the Mauritshuis at The Frick Collection, New York October 22, 2013–January 19, 2014 by Hannah M. Zweifler

Jan Steen (1626–1679) “As the Old Sing, So Pipe the Young”, c. 1665 Oil on canvas 134 x 163 cm Royal Picture Gallery Mauritshuis, The Hague

50_55Vermeer.indd 50

11/2/13 9:41 AM


Vermeer, Rembrandt, and Hals: Masterpieces of Dutch Painting from the Mauritshuis, at The Frick Collection in New York, a mere fifteen masterpieces suffice to offer visitors a window into Dutch society, the nature of its art market, and what artists and collectors valued–and disdained–during the Dutch Golden Age. Frans Hals (1581/1585–1666) Portrait of Jacob Olycan (1596–1638), 1625 Oil on canvas 124.8 x 97.5 cm Royal Picture Gallery Mauritshuis, The Hague

T

he amount of art produced in 17th–century Netherlands was extensive. In fact, the large amount of work from that period that has survived to this day may, by some estimates represent as little as 1% of the total art produced. Still, in the case of the current exhibition, Vermeer, Rembrandt, and Hals: Masterpieces of Dutch Painting from the Mauritshuis, at The Frick Collection in New York, a mere fifteen masterpieces suffice to offer visitors a

window into Dutch society, the nature of its art market, and what artists and collectors valued, and disdained, during the Dutch Golden Age. The amount of artwork produced in 17th–century Netherlands is hardly happenstance. The year 1648 marked the end of the Eighty Years’ War and the start of the Protestant Dutch Republic’s independence from Catholic Spanish Habsburg rule. In the years following, The Netherlands grew to become a naval

powerhouse and the wealthiest nation in the world, dominating international trade and building a colonial empire that reached from Indonesia and South Africa to present-day New York City. While the exit of the Catholic Church eradicated Church sponsorship of art, Dutch artists found patrons in a burgeoning class of wealthy merchants who had surplus income at their disposal. The art of the Dutch Golden Age was therefore a celebration of Dutch

fall/winter 2013 51

50_55Vermeer.indd 51

11/2/13 9:41 AM


Frans Hals (1581/1585–1666) Portrait of Jacob Olycan (1596–1638), 1625 Oil on canvas 124.8 x 97.5 cm Royal Picture Gallery Mauritshuis, The Hague

independence, Dutch identity and the luxuries afforded by international trade. The exhibit Vermeer, Rembrandt, and Hals makes clear, the paintings of the time served to display what the Dutch elite valued: their native land, industrious labor, modest behavior, as well as what they disdained, idleness and disorder. Featuring panoramic views of Dutch cities and the surrounding countryside, landscape painting which sought to extol the beautiful landscape of the Low Countries and the nation’s industrious spirit, matured and flourished greatly during the Golden Age. Jacob van Ruisdael’s (1628–1682) spacious and sun-drenched View of Haarlem with Bleaching Grounds (c. 1670–75) provides a stunning example. With extraordinary

52

50_55Vermeer.indd 52

Frans Hals (1581/1585–1666) Portrait of Aletta Hanemans (1606–1653), 1625 Oil on canvas 123.8 x 98.3 cm Royal Picture Gallery Mauritshuis, The Hague

detail Ruisdael paints an ode to both the distinctive, flat landscape of the Netherlands and Haarlem’s prized linen industry with a scene in the foreground of local bleaching grounds. However, it is the era’s genre paintings, or scenes of everyday life, that truly offer a glimpse into 17th–century Dutch societal values. Included in the exhibition is a wonderful and illustrative example by Jan Steen (1626–1679), undoubtedly the premier Dutch painter of genre scenes. His “As the Old Sing, So Pipe the Young” (c. 1668–70) presents a dazzling, albeit imagined, baptism celebration in a domestic interior. However, the infant’s baptism serves merely as a foil for the wayward adults that surround the baby.

As the title implies, Steen’s painting is intended as a cautionary tale for adults about the effect of errant behavior on impressionable young. Symbols of indolence, debauchery and mimicry are inserted throughout the scene, from the parrot to the oysters. Steen even paints himself into the painting, teaching a young man how to smoke. The scene itself is a visual feast, due in no little amount to the artist’s tactful handling of the paint to capture the texture of every surface. Yet, the magic of Steen is in his ability to evoke the raucous sounds of his crowds in the viewer’s ear. While Steen is famous for his rowdy scenes of the Dutch middle class, other painters preferred more refined settings. Gerard ter Borch’s (1617–1681) Woman

international

11/2/13 9:41 AM


Johannes Vermeer (1632–1675) Girl with a Pearl Earring, c. 1665 Oil on canvas 44.5 x 39 cm Royal Picture Gallery Mauritshuis, The Hague

Writing a Letter, c. 1655 for instance, is a delicately rendered genre scene defined by quietude, modesty, and reminders of Dutch international trade. A master painter of fine textiles, ter Borch portrays a young women dressed in elegant finery writing a letter. We can’t know who she is writing to, but the pushed aside tablecloth, likely a Turkish import, suggests that she writes, perhaps, to a far away Dutch merchant. Whoever the recipient, the large pearl the woman wears, symbolizes her virginity, silently applauding the subject’s modesty and evident faithfulness. Just as ter Borch prominently inserts a Turkish rug into Woman Writing a Letter, the Dutch passion for the exotic is apparent throughout the exhibition,

Gerard ter Borch (1617–1681) Woman Writing a Letter, c. 1655 Oil on panel 39 x 29.5 cm Royal Picture Gallery Mauritshuis, The Hague

such as in Johannes Vermeer’s (1632– 1675) Girl with a Pearl Earring, c. 1665, in which the artist’s subject dons a distinctively non-European headdress and jacket. Girl with a Pearl Earring, which has not been shown in New York since 1984, has pride of place as the sole picture in The Frick’s Oval Room. In person, the work captivates: its stillness and play of light all work to tantalize the viewer with questions about the subject’s identity and the circumstances behind the portrait. Yet the girl’s exotic garb and her beautiful, delicate face indicate that the painting is not an example of Dutch portraiture but of Dutch tronies, paintings of stock characters depicted with idealized faces or exaggerated expressions made for

The Netherlands’ flourishing general art market. Therefore, for Vermeer and his contemporaries, the identity of the girl would have been irrelevant and, like the unusually sized pearl earring she wears, likely a product of the artist’s imagination. Connections thus abound between the paintings in Vermeer, Rembrandt, and Hals: Masterpieces of Dutch Painting from the Mauritshuis, helping to piece together a distinct image of a society defined by wealth and its leading role in a global economy. From the exhibition’s portraits, in which wealthy Dutch patrons don Spanish-inspired fashions, to Pieter Claesz’s Vanitas Still Life, 1630, in which a skull, a timepiece and a snuffed oil lamp would have served to remind the Dutch

fall/winter 2013 53

50_55Vermeer.indd 53

11/2/13 9:41 AM


Jacob van Ruisdael (1628/1629–1682) View of Haarlem with Bleaching Grounds, c. 1670–75 Oil on canvas 55.5 x 62 cm Royal Picture Gallery Mauritshuis, The Hague

elite of the brevity of life and the frivolity of material goods, the societal values that once guided a newly independent nation, emerge. The show’s fifteen works, plus one related contemporary work, Transforming Still Life Painting, 2012, are on loan to The Frick from the Royal Picture Gallery Mauritshuis in The Hague, Netherlands. That museum’s building, built between 1633 and 1644, is undergoing expansion and refurbishment, occasioning an international tour of its most important works. The exhibition’s stop in New York is its last in America. The paintings included in Vermeer, Rembrandt, and Hals uniquely complement the Frick’s strong holdings in Dutch Golden Age art, which also include works by Vermeer, Rembrandt and Hals. Among the many pleasures of the show is the chance to make immediate comparisons between multiple works by the same master painters. Nevertheless, as a group of masterpieces in and of themselves, the works in this extraordinary, once-in-ageneration exhibition uniquely capture the spirit of the Dutch Golden Age, and are by all means not to be missed. Vermeer, Rembrandt, and Hals: Masterpieces of Dutch Painting from the Mauritshuis is on view at The Frick Collection, One East 70th Street, New York, New York, from October 22, 2013–January 19, 2014.  dd 2

rs F.in

osCove

Chron

O

Pieter Claesz Vanitas Still Life, 1630 Oil on panel 39.5 x 56 cm Royal Picture Gallery Mauritshuis, The Hague

54

50_55Vermeer.indd 54

international

11/2/13 9:41 AM

Subscr


er /Summ

Spring

inter

ter 2012 Fall/Win $6.95

n

l a n atio e

agazin

style M

A Life

2013 $6.95

OU E CU RI FO R TH S, TH E CO LL EC OI SS CO NN D TH E TO R AN EU R FA LL /W IN TE R 20 12 •

NU M BE E TY-N IN R NI NE

o ant Oct – Eleg Bulgari nheim Gugge e Th tan o at of Bhu Picass Kingdom al ic ag The M se howca Éclat S s at Indy m Serie rand A Rolex G

India OCTO Classic ’s New Bulgari mporary New A Conte

7 PM 2 3:3

10/4/1

hing d R avis d R aw an hion an m, Fas is n io ss MET e Impre th nity at Moder

le Van C

ef &

a Victori Arpels

t racele ce & B Neckla

TWO FOR THE PRICE OF ONE If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces. As a bonus for our CHRONOS readers we are including a subscription to ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL, A Lifestyle Magazine featuring artistic achievement and design, past and present in the world of jewelry, art, design, travel, gardens and beauty wherever it is found.

One year subscription (6 issues) $30 ______

Check or Money Order Enclosed

______

Charge my Visa, MasterCard or American Express

Card No. _________________________________________________________________

Mail completed form to: CHRONOS & ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557

Exp. Date: __________________Security Code: _________________________________ Signature__________________________________________________________________ Name: (please print) ________________________________________________________ Address: __________________________________________________________________ City: ________________________________ State:_________________ Zip: __________ Country: _______________________________ Phone ____________________________

50_55Vermeer.indd 55 Subscription10_30_13.indd 1

fall/winter 2013 55

11/2/13 11/2/13 9:41 9:14AM AM


SIENA Siena, Italy hasn’t changed much over the last 700 years Written and photographed by Hannah M. Zweifler The Cathedral of Siena towers above the jumble of medieval streets below

56

56_63Siena.indd 56

international

11/2/13 9:41 AM


T

hat’s not to say Siena has not modernized along with the world around it. Panes of pristine glass stretch across the facades of gothic buildings, displaying the latest in Italian fashions, or mouth-watering trays of biscotti, ricciarelli, and other delectable treats. Nevertheless, Siena remains by and large a medieval city in appearance and in spirit. Unlike Florence, a flat, Roman-built city on a river, and Siena’s long-time rival to the north, Siena is more akin to Tuscany’s quintessential

Etruscan-built hill towns. In contrast with Florence’s gridded street map, Siena is a jumble of gothic structures lining a labyrinth of winding, cobblestoned streets. Even to this day, the three main arteries running through Siena are the same that medieval pilgrims once traveled while following a trade route that connected northern Europe with Rome and the Middle East, each still leading to one of the city’s gates. These medieval thoroughfares are just barely wide enough for cars to make

their way through, and Siena remains a pedestrian’s town, ideal for strolling, being seen, and seeing. And while the people-watching is always great, many points in Siena offer spectacular views of the medieval walls that still surround it, cleanly dividing the tangle of streets and buildings on the inside from the vineyard- and cypress tree-filled Tuscan countryside immediately beyond. Siena’s medieval spirit comes in the form of 17 contrade, small, irregularly shaped districts that comprise the city, and that are the basis for Siena’s most

fall/winter 2013 57

56_63Siena.indd 57

11/2/13 9:41 AM


Façade of the Cathedral of Siena famous attraction, the biannual Palio horse race. Each contrada is named after a different animal and when wandering through Siena the vigilant explorer will spot flags and other animal regalia denoting the contrade boundaries. More extraordinary than the long, semi-mythological history (dating to the 14th century) of the contrade, is the level of allegiance the Sienese have for their respective contrade. The deeprooted rivalries that run between them are akin to Shakespeare’s Montagues and Capulets, and in fact, the first version of the Romeo and Juliet story, written by Masuccio Salernitano, took place in Siena. It is easy to see why. Twice each summer, the contrade come head to head in the famous Palio, a horse race around the city’s main piazza, a tradition that dates back to the 1300s, and to this day is replete with all 58

56_63Siena.indd 58

the trappings of a medieval spectacle: medieval costuming, religious ceremony and, of course, bribery. The Piazza del Campo, the site of the Palio, is argued by many to be the most beautiful piazza in all of Italy. Not only is the sloping shell-shaped red brick piazza the highlight of Siena, but also the focal point for the city’s history and cultural life; it’s located at the physical center of Siena as well. While it once served as the city’s political and financial hub, today it appears more like a sandless beach where tourists and locals alike come to soak up the sun (or stars), enjoy fresh panini, pizza or gelato, and watch the world go by. No visit to Siena is complete without an afternoon of doing just that. In the Piazza, visitors will gaze up at the iconic Torre del Mangia towering overhead. The tower is adjacent to Siena’s

Palazzo Pubblico (built between 1297 and 1344) which, in medieval times, housed Siena’s government, the Council of the Nine. Today the Palazzo Pubblico serves as a museum, home to several of Siena’s most famous frescoes, including the exquisite Allegories of Good and Bad Government (1338-1339) by Sienese master painter Ambrogio Lorenzetti. The Torre del Mangia, on the other hand, for those willing to make the climb, provides exquisite views of the town, the countryside, and the people enjoying the Piazza below. Second only to the Piazza del Campo is Siena’s cathedral. Il Duomo di Siena is famous for the unique and striking black and white marble construction (black and white are the official colors of Siena) and incredibly ornate inlaid marble mosaic floor, depicting allegories, virtues, and scenes

international

11/2/13 9:41 AM


from the Old Testament. The cathedral and it’s attached baptistery also house its own trove of artistic treasures by both medieval Sienese and Renaissance Florentine masters, as well as a library of extraordinarily illustrated choir books. Like much of Europe, Siena was hit hard by the Black Death plague in 1348, and the loss of life permanently halted construction of the cathedral. Today, an unfinished nave serves as a parking lot and museum (housing the cathedrals artistic treasures) while an unfinished facade provides, undoubtedly, the greatest viewpoint in Siena. This poignant memorial to the victims of the plague allows visitors to stand in a moment in history and, while looking out at the city below, be reminded of why Siena hasn’t changed all that much since 1348. Beyond the Piazza and the cathedral, Siena offers a handful of unique and fantastic sites, including the Pinacoteca Nazionale, featuring

work from the famous Sienese School of Art, and the Orto Botanico, a botanical garden with an extraordinary array of flowers, plants and vistas of the Tuscan countryside. However, it’s those visitors who take the time to simply wander that experience the best that Siena has to offer. The city’s winding streets invite directionless exploration, and without fail lead to quaint courtyards, quiet piazzas, and picturesque homes decorated with blooming window boxes. For many, Siena serves as a day trip from Florence. Yet, Siena stay abuzz well into the evening, thanks, in large part, to its many charming little restaurants known as osterie. The best osterie are also wonderfully homey, featuring long, family-style tables, handwritten menus scribbled on brown paper, and a oneglass-per-person policy: alternate use for water and wine. Sienese food, like the town itself, is simple but elegant, and is delicious. Siena’s osterie serve up fresh Tuscan

cuisine—heavy on savory meats and thick pasta. A Sienese must-have is pici, thick spaghetti-style pasta unique to the city. Two favorite local dishes made with pici are cacio e pepe, which is pici smothered in melted pecorino and sprinkled in pepper, and pici al cinghiale, pasta with ragú sauce and wild boar. Another hearty treat is ribollita, a filling stew that combines bread, vegetables and beans. An evening in Siena doesn’t end without a stroll through its winding streets and stop in the Piazza del Campo to look up at the night sky, or at least to take in the scene at any of its busy latenight bars. After all, one does not visit this hilly town just to look at things. Rather, one visits Sienna to experience the ambience of understated beauty. To visit Siena is to immerse oneself in a way of life that simple but elegant, medieval but modern. 

View of the the Piazza del Campo and its Fonte Gaia (“Fountain of Joy”) from the top of the Torre del Mangia

fall/winter 2013 59

56_63Siena.indd 59

11/3/13 8:13 AM


Young men represent their contrade during a celebration on St. Catherine's day. St. Catherine is the patron saint of Siena

The flags of the contrade line the inside of the cathedral on St. Catherine's day. The cathedral is famous for its striking black and white marble construction 60

56_63Siena.indd 60

international

11/2/13 9:42 AM


Alex Soldier www.alexsoldier.com

56_63Siena.indd 61

11/2/13 9:42 AM


A little bird told me...

A MERICA N J E WEL RY DE SIG N E RS TH E F ORBES G AL L ER I E S SE P21-FEB2 2 Va ri a t i o n s on a Theme: 2 5 Ye a rs of D esigns f r om t he A J DC

The Forbes Galleries 62 Fifth Avenue, New York City Tuesday through Saturday, 10am-4pm

56_63Siena.indd 62

11/2/13 9:42 AM


41 designers 170 works

BAKER BOHAN BOIN BONDANZA CLASS D AV I D S O N FUSAGER GILES GOLDSMITH GOOD GRAHAM HALEBIAN H A RT G R O V E HEINRICH HELMICH HESS HOLLANDER IVERSEN K E AT I N G KIFFER KLECKA KRETCHMER LACROIX LENT MACNEIL MORIN NEELEY PAT T E R S O N RABE MORIN RAIBLE ROBILOTTI REED REVERE SADLER S AW Y E R SCHNEIDER SCHRAFT SEGAL VINCENT WA D A WESTWOOD

“FLIGHT” by CORNELIA GOLDSMITH

56_63Siena.indd 63

11/2/13 9:42 AM


Women's Jewelry Association JEWELRY NIGHT OUT COLORADO Photography by Michael Beckerman

Walker Fine Art Gallery in downtown Denver

C

olorado jewelry industry professionals came together to launch its first ever Women’s Jewelry Association Colorado chapter at the association’s nationally celebrated WJA Jewelry Night Out. The WJA CO chapter showcased its

64

Jewelry is Art installation of jewelry designs from premier local artists and designers at Walker Fine Art Gallery in Denver, CO. Designers included Andrea Li, Ann Sportun of Art & Soul Fine Art Gallery, Ashley Schenkein, Bead for Life, Carla Morrison, KIR, Margery Hirschey,

Nina Nguyen, Reece Fawcett, Todd Reed, and Uno de 50 of Starfish Jewelry. “We couldn’t be more thrilled with the success of our first event, and really look forward to putting Colorado on the map for amazing jewelry artists,” says Manon Crespi, WJA Colorado chapter president. 

international

64_65WJAcolorado.indd 64

11/2/13 9:42 AM


Lilly Sinelnik (Marketing Director at KIR and WJA Colorado chapter Events), Kir Boedecker (Owner and Jewelry Designer at KIR), Jen Klein (Owner/ CEO at KIR), and Madison Moorhead (Model)

Walker Fine Art Gallery was an exquisite canvas to showcase the exceptional talent of Colorado’s best jewelry designers

Manon Crespi (Jewelry Brand Consultant at MANON LOUISE and WJA Colorado chapter President), Andrea Li (Jewelry Designer and WJA Colorado chapter VP), and Lilly Sinelnik (Marketing Director at KIR and WJA Colorado chapter Events) fall/winter 2013 65

64_65WJAcolorado.indd 65

11/2/13 9:42 AM


A Lifestyle Magazine

As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers. Please mention that you saw them in ĂŠclat International when you call. ALEX SOLDIER Times Square Tel: 212-354-4244 www.Alexsoldier.com erin@alexsoldier.com AMERICAN JEWELRY DESIGN COUNCIL The American Jewelry Design Council PO Box 1149 Hermitage, PA 16148 Tel: 724-979-4992 www.ajdc.org info@ajdc.org BARBARA HEINRICH STUDIO Tel: 585-383-1089 www.barbaraheinrichstudio.com Info@barbaraheinrichstudio.com BERTOLUCCI 2000 Ponce de Leon BLVD., #641 Coral Gables, FL 33134 Tel: 855-461-4919 www.bertolucci-watches.com

CARLA MORRISON FINE JEWELRY Tel: 720-564-9285 www.carlamorrison.com EBEL 650 From Road, Ste., #375 Paramus, NJ 07652 Tel: 800-920-3135 www.Ebel.com GEORLAND 140 West 57th Street New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-730-4730 www.georland.com HERMES 55 East 59th Street New York, NY 10022 Tel: 212-835-6417 www.hermes.com JOSEPH MURRAY Tel: 718-832-7865 www.JosephMurrayJewelry.com LIKA BEHAR likabehar@likabehar.com www.likabehar.com

66

MAIJA NEIMANIS PO Box 181 Windham, NY 12496 Tel: 518-947-4484 Tel: 212-249-6236 www.maijaneimanis.com SIMON G. Tel: 800-627-2661 www.simongjewelry.com SWISS INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES Tel: 877-FLY-SWISS www.swiss.com WEMPE JEWELERS 700 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-397-9000 www.wempe.com WESTIN PARIS THE WESTIN PARIS-VENDOME 3 rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris, France www.thewestinparis.com ZENITH WATCHES Tel: 866-675-2079 www.zenith-watches.com

international

66_As a service.indd 66

11/2/13 2:50 PM


EclatCover105.indd 2

11/2/13 3:37 PM


Fall/Winter 2013 $6.95

hermès. time reinvented.

international A Lifestyle Magazine

Sienna Master Jewelers arceau le temps suspendu forgetting time, just for a moment, before recapturing it again. one press on the pushbutton makes the hours and minutes vanish at will. meanwhile, the central

The Rediscovery of the Power of the Pearl

second hand, unperturbed, pursues its ardent race against time. while the illusion works its magic, the movement continues to beat thanks to a complication exclusive to hermès. another push is all it takes for time to resume its onward march .

1.800.441.4488 - hermes.com

EclatCover105.indd 1

Chanel Pearl Necklace 11/2/13 3:37 PM


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.