Eclat 106 Winter 2013/2014

Winter 2013/2014 $6.95

international A Lifestyle Magazine

Dan Dailey JAR at the MET Cheapside Hoard at the London Museum

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Winter 2013/2014

No. 106

TABLE OF CONTENTS

The Magic of JAR

22 Dailey Affirmations

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The work of glass artist Dan Dailey is illuminating and upbeat, happily representing the more buoyant side of high art

36 Chopard’s Red Carpet Spectacle A glamorous 66-piece collection honors the stars who “mount the steps” in Cannes

A Buried Treasure is Revealed

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The Arts and Crafts of

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Alan Bronstein- A Perspective on The Cheapside Hoard

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Along the Amazon éclat International is published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, NY 11557. For postal requirements, this is considered the December/January issue. Periodicals postage paid at Hewlett, New York, and at additional entry offices.

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Editor'S Outline The cold winter weather affords us the opportunity to frequent the diverse museum exhibitions around the world. Of great interest to us was the retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Jewels by JAR, and the first ever to be exhibited at the museum while the artist is currently still producing his creations. In this issue, we hope to share with you a handful of examples that showcase historical and artistic aspects of design, and to offer you a chance to experience the amazing art and exhibitions we’ve been lucky enough to visit this season.

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The creative mind of Joel A. Rosenthal, JAR, intrigues audiences and his New York exhibition at the metropolitan Museum of Art astounds one’s imagination. The Magic of JAR delights the onlooker with meticulously crafted jewels in many vivid color spectrums.

Dailey Affirmations introduces us to the renowned glass artist, Dan Dailey. His work exemplifies his mastery in crafting glass sculptures, often highlighting the color and translucency of glass with a unique humoristic approach.

Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection celebrates Chopard’s ongoing role as an official partner of the Cannes International Film Festival, creating magnificent one–of-a-kind gems worn by the actresses walking the red carpet.

Alan Bronstein’s perspective, A Buried Treasure is Revealed, illuminates many facets of the

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ongoing exhibit at the Museum of London, The Cheapside Hoard. It provides us with an insight into the aspirational world of London’s upper middle class merchants and aristocratic society from the early 1600’s to 1666, and reveals a historical overview of the period’s jewelry style.

Vacheron Constantin’s recent introduction of the Metiers d’Art collection evidences brand

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support in the preservation of watchmaking’s métiers, or crafts, in the workshops. The Arts and Crafts of Vacheron Constantin elucidates their dedication to the continuation of luxury watchmaking in Geneva.

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The Amazon River is considered one of the longest rivers in the world, and offers travelers easy access to Peru’s Amazon rainforest. Join us as we explore the diversity of plant and animal species in Along the Amazon.

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A Lifestyle Magazine Winter 2013/2014

PUBLISHER

Bertram Kalisher

No. 106

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Nancy K. Siskind

ART DIRECTOR

Raj Walia

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Jay Lazar

EXECUTIVE OFFICE

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ÉCLAT International is owned and published bi-monthly by Kalbe Associates, Inc., 257 Adams Lane, Hewlett, New York 11557. Special permission is required to reprint anything which appears in ÉCLAT International.

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The craftsmanship found in the finest jewelry rivals that of any piece of fine art—as these examples testify to. The intrinsic value of precious gemstones and metals is further enhanced by the creativity of the jeweler, who envisions them as miniature, wearable masterpieces. These are treasures meant to be worn and adored.

Red Carpet Ready With awards season approaching, the red carpets will be resplendent in lavish diamond jewelry. But Los Angeles-based designer Simon G shows how outstanding colored gems can grab attention, too.

This 18K white gold necklace features more than 8-carats of green tourmaline surrounded by a variety of exquisite diamonds in round brilliants, marquise, pear and princess cuts. As statement pieces in fine jewelry go, this one is a first class winner.

Simon G www. simongjewelry.com

About Face During the 19th Century one of the most popular forms of jewelry was the cameo. Their bas relief designs graced some of the era’s most important pieces. DeVito Jewelry Advisors gives this antique hardstone cameo a new life for a new century. The 18K white gold brooch comes surrounded with nearly 50 carats of moonstones accented with diamonds, renewed and refreshed as a modern classic.

DeVito Jewelry Advisors www. devitojewelryadvisors.com

Fit for a Queen Throughout the centuries and in just about every major culture, the tassel has been an important embellishment found on uniforms, gowns and other trappings of royalty. It is natural then that Casa Reale chose to replicate tassels in 18K gold with rubies and natural pearls. That’s because Casa Reale has developed an international following for its jewelry inspired by historical royal jewels and influenced by some of the most prestigious royal houses from Asia to Europe.

Each is designed to evoke the grandeur and style of aristocracy Casa Reale www.casareale.com 10

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Swing Shift Award-winning Yael Designs presents Majesty, a regal pair of 18K white gold drop earrings displaying emeralds and diamonds that glisten like a piece of jewelry in a royal coronation. As with all the company’s designs, these earrings are made with conflict-free diamonds and recycled gold.

Yael Designs www.yaeldesigns.com

Rose Window Situated in the heart of the Italian jewelry-making region, Bizzotto doesn’t have to look far for design inspiration.

Only a few miles away is Venice, where architectural wonders inspired this 18K white and rose gold ring with diamonds and pink sapphires fashioned after the imposing rose window of a Gothic cathedral.

Bizzotto www.bizzottogioielli.com

Precious Pebbles While most fine colored gemstone jewelry features faceted gems, there is an inner glow that’s striking with cabochon-cut gems as well. Take, for instance, this lavish bracelet encrusted with Tanzanites, rubellites and accented with diamond pave pebbles. The mosaic-like assembly of these outstanding gems shows why smooth cuts can be just as dazzling as any faceted stone.

YNY Jewels www.ynyjewels.com

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Flights of Fancy Sethi Couture has become know for its lacy, dainty and feminine designs using natural colored diamonds as well as rose-cut white diamonds, briolettes and old mine cuts. These 18K white gold “plume” linear earrings dazzle with the company’s rosecut diamonds accents with natural pink, green and champagne diamonds. An updated interpretation of a peacock feather, the earrings are sure to make hearts flutter.

Sethi Couture www.sethicouture.com

Sunset Surf Known for her modern classic designs, fine colored gemstones and impeccable craftsmanship, American designer Temple St. Clair selects gemstones not only for their beauty but also for what each gem inspires. In this case, the inspiration is from a pair of 18K yellow gold Flying Fish earrings with red sapphire, orange sapphire, yellow sapphire and diamonds.

Talk about the perfect catch!

Temple St. Clair www.templestclair.com

Usually found in remote areas of Brazil, Paraiba tourmalines are among the most sought after, and rarest of tourmalines.

Designer Rina Limor features this outstanding pair in platinum earrings surrounded by diamonds. The almost neon Windex blue in these gems is as breathtaking as some of the waters seen in the Caribbean.

Rina Limor www.rinalimor.com

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In Rare Form One of the last of the high-end family owned workshops still dedicated to European-style fine jewelry, Oscar Heyman has created some of the most important jewelry made for its own clients as well as other major jewelers. The prestige of the house allows it to select among the best and most beautiful of gemstones.

An example is this rare find, a 20-carat orange sapphire accented with canary and white diamonds.

Oscar Heyman www.oscarheyman.com

Victor Velyan Inspired by his travels and thrills of adventure, designer Victor Velyan infuses his works with the many cultures he has experienced. His use of mixed metals with distinctive patinas has earned him industry-wide recognition. This statement cuff in 24K gold and silver has one of his white patina finishes, decorated with cabochon-cut turquoise and diamond accents.

Victor Velyan www.victorvelyan.com

Animal Magnetism Spanish jewelry house Carrera y Carrera is renowned for its fantastical jewelry interpretations of animals. For those who like to take a walk on the wild side in their jewelry caches, here’s an 18K yellow gold tiger from the Bestiario collection. Grasped in the beast’s mouth is a faceted smoky quartz.

Carrera y Carrera www.carreraycarrera.com

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Easy Being Blue Diamonds are commonly found in white, black, cognac, grey, yellow and pink colors. Syna, a longtime source of fine gemstones, now offers these Chakra pave blue diamond earrings, which are suitable for denim to dressy. Here’s one case where it is indeed easy being blue.

Syna www.synajewels.com

Bow Geste Former model and British designer India Hicks likes to keep her design inspiration in the family—literally. The daughter of famed designer and architect David Hicks, India Hicks bases some of her designs upon the geometric alphabet and other elements her father created. Rather than the typical heart pendant, Hicks depicts the heart before it is pierced (or broken?) with this gold and diamond bow-and-arrow pendant.

India Hicks www.indiahicks.com

Blue Blooded Priding itself on a tradition of superior craftsmanship with fine rare gemstones, U.S. jewelry house Omi Privee uncovers some of the earth’s most prized organic treasures.

This platinum ring features a 5.76-carat, cushion cut blue sapphire centerstone accented with brilliant cut diamonds. A find that could stand the test of time and many generations of gemstone lovers.

Omi Privee www.omiprivee.com

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The Magic of JAR

by Nancy Pier Sindt

The dictionary defines a retrospective as a generally comprehensive exhibition, compilation, or performance of the work of an artist over a span of years�. Currently at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, Jewels by JAR is an exhibition of more than 400 works by the renowned jewelry designer, Joel A. Rosenthal, known as JAR. Jewels by JAR is the first retrospective in the United States of his work and the first retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art completely devoted to a contemporary artist of gems. Joel A. Rosenthal’s opulent, whimsical, variable, imaginative and always meticulously crafted jewels represent a vivid and boundless imagination.

JAR opened in 1978 on the Place Vendome and 1987 relocated to a larger space from which they operate today. Run by Joel A. Rosenthal and Pierre Jeannet, his partner, they work with exceptional craftsman and their ateliers, selecting the most interesting stones for their pieces.

There are over 400 of his works on view, from his earliest ring to pieces he has created

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Folded Butterfly brooch of 2011 is interpreted in silver and gold with diamonds, sapphires and topaz.

Photos courtesy of JAR, Paris.

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Luscious strawberry pendant earrings celebrate nature with sapphires and diamonds set in bronze, silver, platinum and gold designed in 2011.

Multicolored wild roses brooches, created in 1977, mix sapphires, garnets, tourmalines, citrines and diamonds with enamel, silver and gold.

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just for this show. Most of the pieces were lent by private collectors. The exhibit is set up in a dimly lit oval room with several long wall showcases and a number of freestanding vitrines. Each of their four sides showcase spectacular pieces. One point of wonder is the butterfly wall at the rear of the room containing 25 jeweled butterflies and dragonflies, each of a different size, material and design.

Rosenthal designs his creations in keeping with his view of a customer’s personality, style and coloring. It can take up to a year to complete a piece, as he only produces about 100-120 pieces annually.

What the creative mind can produce astounds. Each JAR piece is unique and three-dimensional. Favorite themes include butterflies, shells, animals, vegetables and flowers. JAR also plays with geometrics, spirals, lace, fan shapes, helixes, knots and bows all

Natural formations of coral shape these one-of-a-kind gold bracelets, created in 2011.

Show stopping Mughal Flower Bracelet, designed in 1987, has ruby, sapphire, amethyst and garnet flowers set in silver and gold on a titanium base.

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Starburst earrings of silver and gold are studded with diamonds in JAR’s 2010 fantasy.

rendered in overwhelming colors and fearless gemstone combinations in pave settings. To people in the know about jewelry making, his work is especially refreshing because he cares little about the actual value of the materials, blissfully combining wood, aluminum, titanium, minerals, mother of pearl, even beetle wings, with the finest rubies, sapphires, diamonds and gold.

An exhibition not to be missed, Jewels by JAR awaits you at the Metropolitan Museum of Art until March 9, 2014. ď ľ

The magic of the Mughal Empire is captured in this ring created in 2008, of rubies, oriental pearls and diamonds set in silver and gold. winter 2013/2014 25

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Dailey Affirmations The work of glass artist Dan Dailey is illuminating and upbeat, happily representing the more buoyant side of high art

by Carol Besler

Aqualibrium Circus Vase 2011 Photo: Bill Truslow 28

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Female Alligator Animal Vessel 1998 Photo: Bill Truslow

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an Dailey is one of the world’s most renowned glass artists, with an enviable list of credentials and credits that includes exhibits, commissions and academic posts spanning a 40-year career. Far from the dark, brooding standard set by many of the world’s acknowledged masterpieces of high art, however, much of Dailey’s

work has that rare quality that sets it apart from any other: it has humor. In fact, much of it is downright cheerful, a quality that may be inherent in glasswork itself. The rare beauty of Dailey’s work stems not just from his mastery of the craftsmanship involved, but because of the play of light inherent in all glass sculpture, something that gives it a lumi-

nous, ethereal quality unlike any other art form.

“When you’re working with glass, you’re working with layers of color and translucency for an effect that is light dependent. It is light that makes it come alive,” he says.

“I am trying to use properties of glass to add a layer of character and feeling to an object.

Not a dark feeling. My art is

a celebration or at least a portrayal of human spirit.”

Dailey found his calling while a student at the Philadelphia College of Art (now University of the Arts). In 1967, the college received a grant to build a glass studio, and Dailey, who was also working as a carpenter and a graphic design assistant to support himself during college, was asked to help design and build the studio. He began to work with hot glass, having no formal instruction. Hot glass working was an experiment for the teacher as well as the students.

“I knew I liked to build things,” says Dailey, whose father was an industrial designer. “I also studied film, and thought I might end up being an illustrator. Sketching is still a big part of what I do.

It’s how I communicate with my assistants” Dailey ultimately chose glass as a primary medium.

He received a teaching fellowship at Rhode Island School of Design, where he was the first graduate student of wellknown glass artist Dale Chihuly. He helped to build a new glass studio, taught classes, and developed his first illuminated sculpture as a thesis project. In 1972 he received a Fulbright Fellowship and an invitation to work as an independent artist at the Venini Factory in Murano, near Venice, Italy. There, he created a series of blown glass and brass sculptural lamps, and what he describes as an “industrial experience” became a model for Dailey’s future work in several glass factories later in his career. “I have an industrial pal-

Light Ballet (blue) Illuminated Sculpture 2006 Photo: Bill Truslow winter 2013/2014 29

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Resplendent Illuminated Sculpture 2007 Photo: Bill Truslow

ette,” says Dailey, who counts metal workers, casters and glass blowers among the trades who work with him in his studio in New Hampshire.

After the Murano experience, Dailey returned stateside to set up the Glass Program at Massachusetts College of Art and Design, where he headed the program from 1973 until 1985. His second overseas adventure happened in 1976, when he was invited by Jacques Daum of Cristallerie Daum in Paris to create some piec30

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Birds with Aquamarines Illuminated Sculpture 2013 Photo: Bill Truslow

es. Between 1978 and 2003, he produced seven editioned sculptures for the company, and established a working relationship that continues today. Dailey is one of only three Americans to have worked with Daum, and holds the longest standing relationship of any artist with the company. In the 1990s, Dailey was invited to work as an independent artist for Waterford Crystal in Ireland, where he created chandeliers, wall sconces and vases.

He has also created pieces for

American companies, including Steuben Glass and Fenton Art Glass Company.

His many private commissions include the creation of a cast glass relief mural entitled Orbit for the Rainbow Room at Rockefeller Center, and the Tribute Chandelier for the Providence Performing Arts Center, a massive, 3,600-watt structure the size of two Chevy Suburbans. “The concert hall was built in 1929 and features a variety of decorative elements, including Celtic forms, Asian

motifs, Egyptian motifs and many other design styles with gilded surfaces and rich deep red fabrics. So I had to create something that would work with that and also represent my work,” says Dailey. “It was also a challenge because the historical society sat in on all the reviews and drawings; they had to approve it.”

In 2007, at the request of the Toledo Museum of Art, Dailey co-authored “Glassigator” a book that explains and illustrates the process of glass-

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Wonder Individual Series 2011 Photo: Bill Truslow

blowing, with his daughter Allison Dailey, a landscape architect and sculptor. The book is based on the making of a particular vase titled Alligator, from Dailey's quirky Animal Vase series, begun in 1992.

Recently, Dailey has been conducting a series of lectures on the topic of Materialism at the Massachusetts College of Art and Design. Materialism describes an American art movement based on the artist’s focus on certain mediums such as clay, glass, precious met-

als and their accumulation of skills often using traditional processes with these materials. There is no common philosophy among these artists as with Surrealism or Abstract Expressionism, but they are loosely connected by their attraction to the traditional craft mediums and processes to realize their artistic concepts. The lectures are based on a series of artists interviews. The lectures reflect Dailey's desire to define an American art movement that is currently not rec-

ognized – although many call the artists "studio craftsmen" or "craft artists" in a specific medium. The Art/Craft debate that has endured for 50 years or more indicates the endurance of confusion about the artists who have chosen to focus on metalsmithing or use glass or clay to realize their concepts.

Dailey would like the voice of the artists, as recorded in his interviews, to define the art movement they began, which he believes is distinctly separate from the “crafts.” The level

of workmanship is comparable to the metiers in watchmaking, and is even evident in industrial design, he says. “Why is Mercedes better? You can't climb up on the opened door of a new GM car and jump up and down to shake the whole car, then have the door click shut perfectly. With my 1984 Mercedes you can.

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Byzantine Sconces Illuminated Sculpture 2002 32

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Tribute Illuminated Sculpture 2004

to work as an expert in certain materials,” says Dailey. “Art schools brought in silversmiths from Denmark, potters from England, weavers from design studios. Their techniques offered to us a way of realizing our ideas. That idea is now

eclipsed by the idea of craft as ‘handicraft.’ ” The difference, he explains, is like “someone who makes a lot of something and sells them at a table at a craft fair, say, 40 clay pots, then two weeks later makes another 40. “The product has in-

tegrity, it is usually a very good product, but it is not the same as art,” he says. “An artist works in more abstract ways with ideas, to realize a vision, and often without knowing if there will be someone interested in the resulting works. The differ-

ence, I guess, is in motive. Like a poet versus a reporter. It’s not just about sitting there making a thing and being happy at your work bench – an artist is always looking for the way to say it best.”  winter 2013/2014 33

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Chopard’s Red Carpet Spectacle A glamorous 66-piece collection honors the stars who “mount the steps” in Cannes

by Carol Besler

C

hopard jewelry seems made for the red carpet, so the brand’s role as official partner of the glamorous Cannes International Film Festival seems like a natural fit. The partnership began in 1997 when Pierre Viot, then president of the Festival, met Caroline Scheufele, co-president of Chopard. He was so charmed by her creativity and energy that he asked her to redesign the coveted Palme d’Or, which is awarded to the winner of the Best Film category. This beautiful gold sculpture, designed as a golden palm leaf, has been made

by Chopard at its manufacture in Switzerland ever since. A single piece of cut crystal forms a cushion for the 24k gold palm leaf. In 2000, two “mini-palmes,” replicas of the original, were created to honor the best actor and best actress at the Festival. In the same year, Chopard created the Caméra d’Or prize, an award for the Best First Feature film.

Caroline Scheufele is the driving creative force behind the brand’s jewelry collections and ladies’ watch collections, and the Red Carpet Collection is her annual celebration of the company’s 15-year partnership with the Festival. “There is definitely a bond between films and jewelry: a world of dreams,” says Scheufele. “The decision to partner with the Cannes Film Festival was thus an entirely natural choice.”

Each spring, selections from the multipiece Red Carpet Collection are worn by the parade of beautiful actresses who “mount the steps” in the red carpet ritual of the Festival. This year, Scheufele and her team of talented designers created 66 magnificent new pieces, many designed around one-of-

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Chopard mushroom ring from the Red Carpet Collection, with 366 rubies of 9.36tcw and 207 diamonds of .58tcw set in 18k rose gold.

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Chopard rubellite and diamond necklace, from the Red Carpet Collection, with a 123.24ct pear-shaped rubellite tourmaline and 3,131 diamonds of 65.24tcw, set in 18k white gold and platinum.

Chopard earrings from the Red Carpet Collection, with two rubellite tourmalines of 23.72tcw, two pear shaped rubellite tourmalines of 6.27tcw, 162 blue sapphires of 24.93tcw, 247 pink sapphires of 19.16tcw, 15 rubellite tourmalines of 10.14tcw, 10 diamonds of 3.04tcw, 196 rubies of 2.85tcw, 64 amethysts of 0.59tcw and two iolites of 0.43tcw, set in 18k white gold and titanium. winter 2013/2014 37

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Chopard diamond necklace from the Red Carpet Collection, with 1,044 pear-shaped diamonds of 148.62tcw, set in 18k white gold.

a-kind gems, in honor of the 66th edition of the Cannes Festival. Each piece is made with rare and spectacular stones and at the hands of expert craftsmen. Made for the spotlight, they are comprised of unique combinations of diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds, matched with quartz, coral, moonstone, chalcedony and opals.

The Collection was inspired by the romance of on-screen and off-screen love stories with an array of romantic, colorful masterpieces. Among them was a poppy-ring with delicate ruby encrusted petals, crafted in yellow and white gold, set with diamonds and over 700 rubies, 640 tsavorites and 168 emeralds. Rare, exotic gems such as kunzite, spinel and Paraiba tourmaline made an appearance. There were also thousands of sparkling diamonds. One dazzling diamond necklace was set with a 5-carat pear-cut diamond surrounded by 284 rose-cut diamond totaling almost 183 carats.

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Chopard ParaĂ­ba tourmaline ring from the Red Carpet Collection, with a 15.05ct heart-shaped ParaĂ­ba tourmaline set in 18k white gold, surrounded by diamonds.

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Chopard ring from the Red Carpet Collection, with a pink spinel of 6.53tcw, 10 multicolored spinels of 4.67tcw, 153 multicolored sapphires of 1.57tcw, a 0.62ct amethyst, a 0.62ct rubellite tourmaline and three diamonds of 0.06tcw set in 18k white gold.

Chopard has adorned some of the world’s most beautiful women at the Cannes Festival, including Cate Blanchett, Zhang Ziyi, Penelope Cruz, Diane Kruger, Charlize Theron, Marion Cotillard, Emmanuelle Béart, Isabelle Huppert, Gwyneth Paltrow, Angelina Jolie, Sharon Stone and Catherine Deneuve. In 2006, Caroline chose her friend, supermodel Eva Herzigova, as the brand muse. Chopard clients have included Elizabeth Taylor who once bought a butterfly brooch, Elton John who collects watches, Elizabeth Hurley who ordered Chopard wedding rings for her nuptials, and Madonna who wears Happy Diamonds on the cover of her “Confessions on the Dance Floor” and “Hang Up” albums. In 2006, Cate Blanchett wore a necklace at Cannes, and liked it so much that she persuaded the costume designer of the film “Elizabeth, the Golden Age” to use Chopard jewelry for the film.

Chopard’s presence on the Red Carpet extends to the Academy Awards, bringing good luck to the leading ladies who wear the brand’s jewelry. Over the past 10 years, nine actresses who wore Chopard jewelry to the ceremony have won the Oscar for Lead Actress or Supporting Actress. They include Charlize Theron, Hilary Swank, Rachel Weisz, Helen Mirren, Marion Cotillard, Kate Winslet, Penelope Cruz, Mo¹Nique and Jennifer Lawrence.  For more information please visit www.us.chopard.com

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Emerald and white gold ring from Vendorafa

Chopard poppy ring from the Red Carpet Collection, with 705 rubies of 8.13tcw, 641 tsavorite garnets of 3.33tcw, 168 emeralds of 1.13tcw and 16 black diamonds of .19tcw, set in 18k yellow gold and 18k white gold. winter 2013/2014 39

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TWO FOR THE PRICE OF ONE If you are a collector, a connoisseur, or just curious, a subscription to CHRONOS brings you the latest in watch technology and design with an in-depth analysis of individual watches. Each issue includes Watch Collector, a showcase of the latest unique and limited edition watch masterpieces. As a bonus for our CHRONOS readers we are including a subscription to ÉCLAT INTERNATIONAL, A Lifestyle Magazine featuring artistic achievement and design, past and present in the world of jewelry, art, design, travel, gardens and beauty wherever it is found.

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Fabulous Gemstones

TEAM : Photography : Thomas Claisse @AlmaKarina Agency Art Direction : Karina Rikun @ AlmaKarina Agency

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DE GRISOGONO

High jewellery ring with quartz, diamonds and emeralds.

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international

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white, gold, star sapphires, diamonds.

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DIOR

"Incroyables et Merveilleuses Papillon" ring, yellow gold, diamonds, citrine, pink saphires, orange saphires, and emeralds.

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CHAUMET 44

international

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Necklace Hortensia set with rubies, pink sapphires, rhodolite garnets, red tourmalines, and pink tourmalines.

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CHANEL

"CamĂŠlia Exquis" brooch 18K white gold with rubies, white diamonds, pink diamonds, brown diamonds.

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international

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DE GRISOGONO

High jewellery necklace and ring in white gold, with emeralds and diamonds.

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CHANEL

"Ruban Mademoiselle" ring from the "1932" collection.

18K white gold with yellow diamonds and white diamonds.

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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS 48

international

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Zip Antique Etoile Necklace, white gold, diamonds, and sapphires.

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PIAGET

Ring in 18K white gold set with diamonds, emeralds, fire opal beads and rubellite; Ring in 18K white gold set with diamonds, carved citrine, and green tourmaline; Ring in 18K white gold set with diamonds, pink sapphires, ruby and amethyst.

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A Buried Treasure is Revealed Alan Bronstein- A Perspective on The Cheapside Hoard

W

hen most of us think of buried treasure we imagine the pirates of the 18th and 19th century, where X marks the spot on maps that lead to nowhere. Yet what must be one of the greatest treasures ever unearthed, a time capsule of 17th century London is now on display in its full glory at The Museum of London.

The style, simplicity, yet utter elegance of what is called The Cheapside Hoard, is a portal into the world of the aspiring upper class merchant and aristocratic society of English jewelry style from early 1600’s to 1666. Having been uncovered during the excavation of Cheapside and Friday Streets during the area reconstruction of 1912, the Hoard has been housed, cleaned and meticulously restored. It has finally made its public debut, like a Shakespearean play

Bejewelled scent bottle © Museum of London

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Colombian emerald watch © Museum of London

performed at The Globe Theatre for the first time.

Just viewing the objects themselves would leave any historian and jeweler in jaw dropping awe, the fact that jewels like this even exist today is still mostly a mystery and is under continued investigation. Let us add to that it is an actual miracle, as nature or mankind has recycled most things from that era during the last 400 years.

Cheapside Street was the main thoroughfare where guild shops and jewelers of the time created and sold their designs, and where the wealthy gathered to shop and be seen publicly. In 1666, The Great Fire of London blazed through much of the city leveling buildings to the ground including Cheapside’s shopping district. When the destruction ended, London went into a new era of rebuilding over the old foundations, forgetting the cellars that may have collapsed under the burnt edifices. And so this treasure, scattered amongst the soil and rocks, had remained silently hidden until the street

redevelopment of 1912, when the addition of new pipes and sewers revealed the stash.

The pieces themselves give no hint of the maker’s mark or designer, and the owner is still a source of speculation.

It appears that these underground storage and workspaces were fairly common, but it was only in this one particular area that jewelry was found.

It is theorized that an artisan jeweler, knowing that the fire was upon him, stored his wares below ground expecting to return and reclaim his property. Perhaps the other shops on Cheapside had moved their precious objects to another presumed safer location, or everything was destroyed along with the buildings. Regardless, one can assume that most of the precious items were consumed in the enormous inferno, as there is so little evidence of jewelry existing from this period. That is why The Cheapside Hoard is so enlightening, as so many things can be learned about the style and taste of the era. The discovery connects the timeline of development a bit more comprehensively to the present

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This is a section of a watercolour by Hieronymous Grimm (1780s) of a lost Tudor painting of the coronation procession of Edward VI through Cheapside in 1547. The photo of this section is taken from the original watercolour belonging to the Society of Antiquaries.Š Museum of London winter 2013/2014 51

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A Buried Treasure is Revealed

Emerald and enamel grape pendant earring © Museum of London

Gold bow pendant set with rose-cut and step-cut foil-backed rubies and table-cut diamonds © Museum of London

Emerald, diamond and enamel Salamander brooch © Museum of London

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Gold and enamel chain with amethyst and helidor beads Š Museum of London

knowledge of design and execution.

We can see from the Hoard that gemstone faceting was still in its infancy.

Where there are a few examples of softer gemstones bearing the modern polished surfaces in crude fashion, most of the relatively small stones were fashioned in the cabochon style of smoothing to a rounded top. There is a fantastic example of a diamond octahedron set in a ring where the top has been polished flat, known as a table cut, but no other facets appear on the stone.

Table cut and small rose cut diamonds had begun to enter Europe from the pioneer merchants of the time, such as the legendary Jean-Baptiste Tavernier.

These brave gem merchants and traders made long journeys to open the door for greater trade relationships with India and

Bejewelled necklaces and chains Š Museum of London Persia and thus brought the gem treasures of the East to Europe. Rubies, sapphires, emeralds and amethyst were the main precious stones, enamel was used for color and embellishment, and gold and silver were the main jewelry components.

The evidence of the crude techniques of gemstone polishing, faceting, and shaping is clearly exposed by this exhibition. And the jewels are magnificent.

One thing is obvious, the individuals of this time period had a great appre-

ciation for objects mimicking nature, and they loved to adorn themselves in colors.

These jewels were a source of pride and esteem; not very different than aspirations of those who live in the 21st century. One cannot help but feel transported to another world surrounded by these delicate and timeless designs from this great treasure dug from the earth.

The legacy of The Cheapside Hoard was brought back to life by chief curator, restorer and historian Hazel Forsyth. ď ľ winter 2013/2014 53

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The Arts and Crafts of

by Carol Besler

The Angel, The Horseman and The Lizard, from the Les Univers Infinis timepieces with enamelled dials from the Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art collection

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W

hen Catherine Barthelemy Vacheron and Louise César Vacheron, two widows of the Vacheron family, ran the watchmaking enterprise in the late 19th century, they supported watchmaking’s metiers, or crafts, in the workshops. In so doing, the arts of miniaturization and decoration were brought to a higher level, helping to pioneer what would become known as the Geneva style of luxury watchmaking – highly decorated, yet refined, and finished to the highest standards.

The brand’s recent introductions in its Metiers d’Art collection are evidence of the preservation of the secrets of high craftsmanship. The brand’s cultivation of talented craftsmen – engravers, enamelists, engine-turners, jewelers and gemsetters – is still evident 100 years later. The new trilogy is the second series in the Les Univers Infinis Collection, inspired by the work of Dutch artist Maurits Cornelis Escher.

The repeated graphic patterns on the dial represent the paving technique known as tessellation. They are executed using a blend of artistic crafts, including engraving, enamelling, gemsetting, guilloché and marquetry.

The space on the dials is filled with perfectly interlocking repetitive motifs, thereby creating a world of optical illusion and perspective, beautifully framed by a white gold case.

There are three different dial patterns. The Angel watch contrasts angels and demons through light and darkness, in a pattern executed in the champlevé enamel technique that is later guilloched. It is extremely rare for guilloché work to be done on an enamelled model because of the extreme complexity of the operation.

Any slip of the tool could jeopardize the precious work of an entire team of artisans.

The second dial pattern depicts Ottoman horsemen, rendered in gold and mother-of-pearl marquetry. Each

Applying enamel to the watch dial

Diamonds being set onto the watch dial

Hand engraving of the Horseman onto the watch dial

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The Arts and Crafts of

Application of hand engraved Horseman onto the watch dial

horseman is first cut out from gold and delicate mother-of-pearl before being meticulously assembled like a puzzle, on a gold base, with no visible gaps between the figures. The Ottoman Empire was famous for its cavalry force, with its famous armored soldiers and horses.

The third dial is inspired by Escher’s Reptile lithographs and depicts an army of red, brown, gemset or silvertoned lizards. These animated reptiles are created using engraving, grand feu enamelling and guilloché work. The coats of some of the lizards are set with diamonds; others are guilloched to highlight their tiny scales, measuring just a few tenths of a millimeter.

Each of the three models will be produced in a limited edition of 20 pieces. All are Hallmark of Geneva certified. They contain the Caliber 2460, a mechanical self-winding movement, developed and crafted entirely by Vacheron Constantin.

Its components bear the decorative finishes of a haute horology movement: Côtes de Genève bridges, a crossweave guilloché pattern on the rotor, and a circular grained mainplate. 

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The Colorful Side of Gemlok For the store nearest you call 800.221.4438 or visit www.gemlok.com winter 2013/2014 57

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Along the Amazon Story and Photos by Wendy Shenfeld

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eru’s Amazon rainforest is one of the world’s last great undeveloped and undisturbed regions. It is an amazing place to visit for adventure and exotic wildlife encounters. This untamed area contains the greatest biodiversity of any habitat on earth and coupled with the relative ease of travel to the Amazon, makes this a wonderful vacation spot. The warmth in climate is only matched by the warmth of its people. Many travelers, like our group, combine a trip to the jungle with a visit to Machu Picchu and Lima, the capital.

Led by professional guides we moved in small groups by skiff up the Amazon tributaries to experience first hand encounters with the Amazon wildlife and enjoy the natural beauty of the area.

The Peruvian Amazon jungle comprises over 60% of the country and is one of the most biologically diverse areas on Earth. The Amazon River flows from streams coming directly from the Andes Mountains. Flowing through South America, the river is considered one of the longest rivers in this world. Relatively untouched, Peru has the largest

The Amazonian giant water lily, the second largest single leaf plant in the world.

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numbers of bird species and the third greatest number of mammals in the world.

Journeying into the rainforest by way of the remote Amazonian City of Iquitos, we travelled aboard the luxury boat, Aqua Amazon Expedition, which would serve as our home for five restful nights on the river. As we headed towards the Pacaya Samiria Reserve, deep in the jungle and

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only accessible by water, we came upon indigenous people traveling by handcrafted wood rafts and dugout canoes.

Led by professional guides we moved in small groups by skiff up the Amazon tributaries to experience first hand encounters with the Amazon wildlife and enjoy the natural beauty of the area. On the way we saw endangered pink dolphins and three

toed sloths hiding in the rainforest canopies.

Toucans and macaws effortlessly gliding across the horizon as we floated down the river. Piranha fishing made us a little cautious of swimming in the murky water, but a few adventurous travelers jumped in for a quick swim. A night outing afforded us the opportunity to navigate the tributaries by tender with flashlights shining by the

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pet , 641 alds of 9tcw, set in

An excursion on a small skiff going deeper into the Amazon tributaries.

A Capybara 60

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Local fisherman on a several day outing to bring fresh fish to the market.

Emerald and white gold ring from Vendorafa

An open air home on the shores of the river. winter 2013/2014 61

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Stopping for a quick photo with the village children, wearing strands of local beads.

A visit to the local school house where the children greeted us with songs and laughter.

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edge of the water. Our naturalists spotted the eyes of the Caiman, a relative of the alligator, that glowed in the dark and a family of Capybara, the worlds largest rodent, wading through the river in military precision.

Daily walking treks with local guides taught us how the jungle’s abundant plant species are used to cure many ailments.

We were immersed in the medicinal presence throughout the forest. Our guide informed us that the jungle’s vast resources provides 25 percent of the developed world’s pharmaceutical ingredients. Giant water lilies floating along the surface and colorful flowers added to the beauty of the experience.

Highlights of the trip were our visits into the local communities and interacting with the people on the banks of the river. The benefits of these interactions resonated with all of us. Here we were introduced to the indigenous culture of the jungle and gained a firsthand understanding of life along the Amazon which remains largely the same as it has been for centuries. Meaningful encounters were arranged for us to interact with school children, and provide them with books and crayons and we were able to play soccer and volleyball with the locals.

Still relatively untouched by modernity, who knows how long the Amazon will remain a natural treasure?

The Amazon provides the intrepid traveler with a safari-like experience that combines stunning beauty with a chance to witness animals and flora frozen in time long since passed. Go now, and let the Amazon and its inhabitants show you the beauty and simplicity of life that we rarely get a glimpse of in our modern, hectic and industrialized lives. 

Along the Amazon

Having fun with the local children as they escort us back to the shore of the river.

Emerald and white gold ring from Vendorafa The luxury ship Aqua Amazon.

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Variations on a Theme: 25 Years of Designs from the AJDC

MICHAEL BONDANZA PETRA CLASS J A C LY N D AV I D S O N FA L C H E R F U S A G E R GEOFFREY GILES CORNELIA GOLDSMITH MICHAEL GOOD SARAH GRAHAM ALISHAN HALEBIAN R O N H A RT G R O V E BARBARA HEINRICH SUSAN HELMICH JOSÉ HESS CORNELIS HOLLANDER JOHN IVERSEN S C O T T K E AT I N G CHRISTO KIFFER PA U L K L E C K A STEVEN KRETCHMER PA S C A L L A C R O I X ANTHONY LENT LINDA MACNEIL GREGORÉ MORIN ADAM NEELEY M A R K PAT T E R S O N JENNIFER RABE KENT RAIBLE PA U L R O B I L O T T I TODD REED ALAN REVERE SUSAN SADLER G E O R G E S AW Y E R MARK SCHNEIDER WILLIAM SCHRAFT TINA SEGAL DIANA VINCENT TA K A S H I WA D A BARBARA WESTWOOD

App rox . 50 % of catalo g actu a l siz e

WHITNEY BOIN

Forbes Galleries, New York City September 21 - Febrary 22

JANE BOHAN

Variations on a Theme: 25 Years of Designs from the AJDC

SANDY BAKER

PAGE 51

“Exquisite exhibition catalog”

Exclusively available from the American Jewelry Design Council http://ajdc.org/orderbook

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A Lifestyle Magazine

As a Service to Our Readers If you would like a catalog or the name and address of the nearest authorized dealer, please contact our advertisers. Please mention that you saw them in ĂŠclat International when you call.

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AMERICAN JEWELRY DESIGN COUNCIL The American Jewelry Design Council PO Box 1149 Hermitage, PA 16148 Tel: 724-979-4992 www.ajdc.org info@ajdc.org

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GEORLAND 140 West 57th Street New York, NY 10019 Tel: 212-730-4730 www.georland.com

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international A Lifestyle Magazine

Dan Dailey JAR at the MET Cheapside Hoard at the London Museum

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