2013 APR ISSUE 16
Animal Arithmetic 動 物 的 四 則 運 算
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Animal Arithmetic ABOOK 意團隊文化事業有限公司 104 台北市內湖區港墘路 221 巷 39-1 號 Te l : ( 0 2 ) 2 6 5 7 - 1 6 6 6 Fa x : ( 0 2 ) 2 6 5 7 - 1 5 5 5 Email : hello@abook.cc We b s i t e : w w w. a b o o k . c c
監製 Supervisor : 張艾嘉 執行 Executive : 林炳存 Joshua Lin
攝影總監 Photography Director : 林威呈 Wei Lin 攝影編輯 Photography Editors : 林特、張騰元、陳冠璋、 Linda Cooper
創意總監 Creative Director : 尹培袞 Sean Yin 發行人 Publisher : 賀錫敬 Leo Ho
造型總監 Styling Director : 林夢薇 Monfi Lin
總編輯 Editor in Chief : 林特
編輯策劃 : Executive Director : 趙欣、桑科
翻譯編輯 Translation Editor :
顧問團隊 : 陽帆、廖鎮漢、詹仁雄、林知佑、廖曉喬
姜怡帆 Annie Chiang、鄭昭新 Frank Cheng
色彩管理 : 王振昇 行政管理 : 張騰元
英國特駐 Overseas Editor : Linda Cooper 採訪編輯 Assistant Editor : 李佾樺 Tim Lee
視覺主編 Design Director : Alex Chang 視覺編輯 Visual Editor : 王培華 Hingis 、陳宛均 kye
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總務管理 : 李佾樺 執行公關 : 星予公關
p04-05 總編輯的話 / E D I T O R ’ S N O T E
A Letter From Editor-In-Chief
p06-07 觀點
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C o n t e n t
p08-11 新銳特急
PERSPECTIVE
/ ABOOK
EXPRESS
Abook×SPCA× 范曉萱 微電影拍攝花絮 Mini Movie Behind the Scence
The Thinig We Believe... And The Contradictions
p 1 2 - 4 5 時尚攝影
/ ABOOK
FA S H I O N
心中的野獸 CONTROL THE USE of Animals LALA LAND
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p46-59 封面故事
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C OVER STORY
LOVING VILLAINS
本土創意
/ Ta i w a n
Ta l e n t s
變化本身即是一種常態 時尚攝影師 蘇益良 專訪 ( 後編 ) Change Itself is Inevitable 攝影的另一種面向 杜韻飛的「生殤相」
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2013 大港開唱 Mega Port Festival
p86-93 來稿登錄 / F r o m R e a d e r s
Nuovo Mondo The Forest 3
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A Letter From Editor-In-Chief EDITOR‘S NOTE BY LINTER
最近反核好像成為一種流行，店面的反核旗幟、身上的反核貼紙和 T-shirt， 好像六零年代的反戰標誌一樣，從世界性話題轉化成時代的潮流， “No Nukes” 也成為一種流行語。音樂、影像、文字，無論是在哪一種創作領域，只要是身 為創造文化的一份子，也似乎都必須要稍微關心世界與關注社會，畢竟這些人 創作出的產物，是有可能影響什麼的。不過，除了世界棒球經典賽之外，多了 一些話題讓大家可以聚在一起熱血，也沒什麼不好的。 至 於 為 什 麼 要 用 動 物 來 作 為 主 題？ 其 實 我 們 並 沒 有 要 把 動 物 作 為 一 個 「議題」，因為沒有要去「議」的意思，我們只是單純地喜歡著動物這種人類 以外的、同住在地球上的同伴，它們沒有語言，卻有許多表情，它們的特性也 象徵著各種比喻，在時尚攝影中，會是一個很好發揮的題材，如此而已。 話雖如此，我們還是希望自己能夠影響些什麼，就算是一點點也好。生物之間 或許有必然的食物鏈，我們因為要活著，需要營養，無可避免的要去遵循這個 自然定律，然而是不是過度利用了資源，才是最需要思考與改變的事情。
Anti-nuclear protests seem to be the ‘trend’ lately. Shops around the city are adorned with flags, and people are decked out in anti-nuke t-shirts and stickers. It’s like a return to the anti-nuclear demonstrations prominent in the 60s and world events strangely evolving into a trendy movement. Whether it is music, imagery, words, or any creative medium, there seems to be an imperative need to proclaim a concern for the world and the society. After all, public influence often stems from the creative world, and aside from WBL topics, it’s perhaps not so bad to have something else to talk about. Why are we using animals as the central theme for this issue? Truthfully we are not trying to create a political issue or rhetorical debate around animals, nor directly criticize the human immoral treatment of them. We merely want to celebrate the beauty of the creatures that share this world with us; animals cannot speak, but they are full of emotion. In photography, animals make great subjects. The world is innately a process of the so-called ‘food chain’. Humans need to eat and need nutrients to survive. The relationship between living things on earth is thus an inevitable part of that chain and process. However, if we can influence anything at all, through this issue and through photography, it is perhaps the reflection of whether or not we are sustainably utilizing our resources; are humans accustomed to living in excess? Can anything be changed?
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文/ ANNIE CHIANG
THE
THINGS
AND
THE
那些我們所相信的 事實，與矛盾。
傳統的基督徒基本上是以人為本。基督教相信低等動物是沒有靈魂的，動 物對人類而言是低下的，因為這些動物是上帝創造出來單純給人類使用和 食用，自然界就是為人類而被創造出來。現代的基督教慢慢的產生出關懷
宗教是我們的文化基礎，它能夠撫慰人心和達到情感上的 救贖。宗教是政治性的而且它是複雜的。 農曆新年期間，我花了大半的時間在傳統巴黎街道上的藝文區和博物館間
動物的環境運動，雖然有超過20億的基督徒積極過著基督式的生活，但以 動物作實驗的事件依然在全世界時常發生。
難道關愛萬物的造物主不該也帶領着人類以同樣的心態對待所有生物嗎？
散步，對於巴黎擁有這麼多宏偉壯觀的教堂直叫人感到驚嘆。剩下的時間 我坐在戶外咖啡廳裡啜飲著咖啡單純思考人生的意義，當然，我還是把握 了時間與我的家人和朋友們閒聊直到深夜。
在一間高級法國餐館用餐的夜晚，一段談話著實將我從週末的食物昏迷中
回教徒相信阿拉創造了所有生物並深愛著所有動物。但是可蘭經裡面卻有 動物可以因為人類的利益而被食用。
難道人類的利益可以超越阿拉對他所創造事物的偉大的愛嗎？
給驚醒過來，儘管不願去承認，但這段對話真的讓我好好的思考了一番。 我們當晚的女服務生是一位嫻靜的女生，當她在送餐時，我的虔誠佛教徒 表姐堅持要點鵝肝，她堅持到聲音提高了兩個八度來證明她的論點，我一
信念可以扭轉是非，對吧！ 真相是我們我相信的那樣。
直不是素食主義的宣傳者，即使我是素食者，但在這種情況下還是忍不住 腦中矛盾的想法。大約經過10分鐘來來回回的「鵝肝」辯論及製作過程中 的殘忍性後，表姐在被問到她為何如此支持這項殘酷的過程時，身為虔誠
「我不在乎那些動物在教條裡並沒有過的比 較好的宗教。」－亞伯拉罕林肯
佛教徒的她還是噤聲了。
-end因果報應的教條中指出了當我們在尋求啟發和更好的極樂世界時，我們應 該要表現出對所有事物的慈愛之心，同時也不傷害其他生物。佛教徒一般 相信傷害或殺生是不對的，然而在藏傳佛教裡你幾乎可以吃任何不是直接 被你宰殺的生物。那這些生物到底是誰為了誰而死的呢？
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WE
BELIEVE… CONTRADICTIONS
Religion is our cultural foundation. Religion is comfort and emotional salvation. Religion is politics. Religion is complicated. During the Chinese New Year holidays, I spent half of my time walking around
you if it was not killed specifically for you.
the pristine streets of Paris whilst taking in the artistic aura of the museums
Then who killed it for whom?
and churches scattered throughout the city. It really is amazing how many grand and magnificent cathedrals there are in Paris. The other half of the time
Traditional Christianity was generally human-centric. Christian thinking
I sat at outdoor cafes, sipping coffee and merely pondering the reasons and
downgraded animals as being soulless; animals are inferior to humans because
meaning of life. Of course I also met up with friends and family for dinner and
animals were made by god merely to be used and eaten by humans. Nature
chitchats into the late hours of the night.
was believed to serve humanity. Modern Christianity with the growth of the environmental movement has become more animal friendly. With over 2 billion
One particular conversation during a night out at a fancy French restaurant
Christians striving to live in a Christ-like way, animal testing is still prominent
really awakened me from my weeklong food coma, and though I hate to admit
in most countries of the world. Shouldn’t a loving creator like God be leading
it, the conversation really got the best of me. Our waitress of the night, a young
human beings to act lovingly towards all living things?
demure lady, was taking our order and my cousin, who is a deeply devoted Buddhist, was insistent on ordering foie gras. So insistent in fact, that it seemed her
Muslims believe that Allah made all living creatures, and that Allah loves all an-
voice raised two octaves just to make her point to the waitress. Now, usually I
imals. However the Qur’an states that animals can be used for human benefit.
am no preacher of vegetarianism, even though I am vegetarian myself, but in
Does human benefit surpass the importance of Allah’s love for that of which he
this situation I couldn’t seem to help myself. After about ten minutes of debat-
has created?
ing back and forth about foie gras and the unspeakable cruelties involved in the practice, my cousin was finally muted when asked why she supported such cruel
Beliefs can make what is wrong, right.
practices, especially being a faithful Buddhist?
Things are what we believe they are.
The doctrine of karma implies that in our quest for enlightenment or nirvana, we shall show loving-kindness to all and do no harm to other beings. Buddhists generally believe that it is wrong to hurt or kill animals, however in doctrines like that of Tibetan Buddhism, you can acceptingly eat anything provided to
“I care not for a man’s religion whose dog and cat are not the better for it”–Abraham Lincoln. -end-
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Abook ×SPCA×范曉萱 微電影拍攝花絮 Mini Movie Behind the Scenes
Abook Studio今年初與台灣SPCA（防止虐待動物協會）合作拍攝微電影，並邀請范 曉萱與范媽媽參與演出。電影探討並引導觀眾重新思考動物虐待的定義，片中范曉 萱碰到一位熱心環保的愛心媽媽，並被媽媽收藏的一片片光碟所感動，最後投入防 止虐待的公益活動中。范曉萱在電影當中也飾演她自己，希望透過媒體以及大量 「分享」的動作，提倡「改變一個人，就可以改變全世界」的理念。
拍攝過程中雖然經歷颳風下雨，卻因為和許多狗狗一起工作，變得樂趣不斷，場面 也變得非常溫馨。Abook Studio主理人林炳存導演說，這次會參與微電影的拍攝， 也是希望靠自己的力量為社會盡一份心，「我希望大家可以一起讓我們居住的這個 地方健康平安，每個人在自己的能力內都可以出一份力」。
-end-
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Abook Studio has teamed up with Taiwan SPCA (Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) to produce a mini movie in hopes of bringing attention to animal cruelty issues in Taiwan. The stars of the film, Mavis Fan and her mom Didi, were involved in the script writing and production process from beginning to end. In the movie Mavis plays herself, and upon chance meets an aixin mama (Didi) who inspires her to re-think what animal cruelty means. The central theme of the film lies with the notion of “sharing through media platforms” and doing what we can to assist animals in need. The director of the film is Abook Studio’s founder Joshua Lin. A dog lover and long-term supporter of the Taiwan SPCA, Joshua says he is merely doing what he can to bring attention to animal cruelty issues. Joshua hopes that more people can watch the film and become inspired to not only help companion animals but wild animals and farm animals as well. The Mavis film is one of ten mini movies being sponsored by Tencent and the SPCA Hong Kong. “Inspire one, and you can inspire the world.” -end9
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Photographer : Kuan Styling : Yui Chen Make-Up And Hair : Po Tsang Ho Photography Assistant : Frank Cheng Model : Lenni @ Pace Model
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MAKING OF - “Control”
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THE USE of ANIMALS Photographer : Kate Chun P. Lin Make-Up : Jonathan Wu Hair : Po Tsang Ho Photography Assistant : Kuan Wardrobe : Superego, Dark Matter Taipei 26
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MAKING OF - “The Use of Animals”
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LALA LAND
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LOVING VILLAINS Photographer : Joshua Lin / Brand : Sorapol London / Director : Linda Cooper / Art Director : Sorapol Chawaphatnakul / Make Up : Nataxa Tk (Burberry Beauty) / Hair Stylist : Claire Healey / Models : Nell Nabarro, Irra Ariella Khi,Nicola Mawhood,Patrycja Lorek, Jenna Aarons / Assistant : Miller Special thanks to all the sweet parents: Lana Bogatcheva,Nataxa,Marina Nastavnikova, Rob Jarvis,Liz Outram,Samir Kadi,Tomas Auksas And little supermodels: Choco bone,Kesha,Mini, Monsta, Fang,Skye,Carlitos Outram,Lilly Kadi,Rio
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Disney films often have memorable villains that we all love and hate. Animals seem to also be an essential part of Disney plots. What happens when evil becomes decent and villains become animal-lovers?
THE PROTECTOR OF THE SEA URSULA'S SOFT SIDE 47
UNSUCESSFUL MAGIC PRINCESS LOVES HER FROG
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Sorapol這個設計品牌的主要概念是「優雅、成功、擁有積極思 考的女人」，在你心裡誰最能體現這些關鍵字？或者誰是你設計 上的謬思？ 我會想要替英國女王伊莉莎白一世和維多利亞女王設計服裝，他們正是Sorapol品牌精 神的代表，只是在現代生活裡，我們想要打扮的是有創意、成功、有權力的女人，以 及那些懂得藝術與概念的人們。
泰國和倫敦有什麼不一樣？有計劃將你的作品帶回亞洲嗎？ 泰國的人們大抵來說是有良心的，也相當注重細節，並且也強調技術上的作業，但可 能是因為限制很多，所以創意設計的人們傾向向外發展他們的創意。這兩地有著完全 性的文化差異，在倫敦的環境中，創意能被允許的範圍是更廣的，只是在倫敦比較欠 缺真正的技術與技巧。我想我會在被邀請的前提下，把作品帶回亞洲。
這次和Abook合作拍攝，主要的造型概念是什麼？你合作過的亞 洲的攝影師與歐美的攝影師有什麼不同？ 這次一部份是根據台灣SPCA的提案，他們希望動物在影像中能扮演主角，我立刻想到 迪士尼故事裡的角色幾乎都與動物有關，於是我想把迪士尼裡的惡棍角色放進這個拍 攝，並且把小狗們放進去，不同的是我把這些角色轉化成動物情侶，比如公主與青蛙 王子，表現出人與動物之間的特殊感情。
好的攝影師就是好的攝影師，以藝術與熱情是有可能與任何人溝通的，攝影師是哪裡 人根本不是重點。
十年後Sorapol會走到哪裡呢？ 我希望人們想到Sorapol，就會聯想到他是一個有創意、高貴的品牌。
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On your website it says that Sorapol is for 'elegant, successful, forward thinking women'. Who in your mind embodies all that? Or in other words, who would be your muse? I would have loved to dress Queen Elizabeth the 1st and Queen Victoria. They embody everything that our brand stands for. However, in modern days we want to dress creative, successful, and empowered women; artists and people that understand art and concept.
How is Thailand different from London? Any plans to bring your work back to Asia? The Thai people in general are conscientious. There is perfect attention paid to detail. There is also emphasis on technical work but it is perhaps more restricted because people tend to steer away from outwardly creative designs. There is a complete culture difference between the two places. In London people are allowed to be far more creative. What London is missing though is real technical skill. I will bring my work back to Asia when I’m asked to.
Tell us about the concept behind the photoshoot with photographer Joshua Lin? How are Asian photographers different from European or American photographers that you've worked with? The concept of the shoot was partly aided by a brief given to us by the Taiwan SPCA and they wanted animals to be at the centre of the shoot. I immediately thought of Disney where most characters have an animal by their side. I wanted to put Disney villains in the shoot with animals, however I wanted to reverse their role and go against what they are all about; turning them into animal lovers. The princess and the frog, however, shows the unique relationship between humans and animals. A good photographer is a good photographer. It is possible to communicate through art with anyone with a shared passion. It doesn’t matter where they are from.
Where do you see "Sorapol" the brand in ten years? I want people to think of SORAPOL as a creative, luxury goods company.
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MISCHIEVOUS CUDDLY CAT
Mis
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CHESHIRE WONDERLAND MISCHIEVOUS YET CUDDLY
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QUEEN OF ALL HEARTS SAY NO TO ANIMAL CROQUET!
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THE NURTURING CRUELLA FAUX FUR ADVOCATE
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MAKING OF - “LOVING VILLAINS”
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Change Itself is Inevitable.
Photographer : Liang Su Stylist : Andrew Hair : Tyker Ho@Eros Make-Up : Thera C Model : Anna G@Queens 60
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變 化 本 身 即 是 一 種 常 態
時 尚 攝 影 師 蘇 益 良 專 訪 後 編
「不只是攝影，從事所有 事情都是一樣，走到了 某一個階段，感覺前面有一 座牆擋住，這時不要只是一 直站在原地看著牆，要想辦 法越過，只要知道自己在做 什麼，繼續的努力往前進， 這牆自然會消失。」
Interview : Kate Linter, Kuan Chang Chen 70
從事攝影多年，對「攝影風格」的看法是？
我們都知道歐美時尚雜誌的拍攝執行方式和台灣
會不會煩惱明天要用什麼方法，才能煮出好吃的
不太一樣，一場拍攝有時不一定是由攝影師來主
牛肉麵？不會，他只要用平常用的方法，就可以
一直覺得擁有個人風格不一定是件好事，也要求
導，有時會是造型師，有時會是美術總監，攝影
煮出好吃的牛肉麵了，客人也不會在意你用哪一
自己不要有固定的風格，如果能像變色龍一樣，
師在視覺上把著最後一關，幾乎是要把所有人的
種方法煮麵熬湯。我們拍照的重點就是要拍起來
隨著每次拍攝的主題、合作的對象不同，而激發
創意完整呈現出來的最後一道防線，把「想法」
好看，客戶要看的是被拍的人好不好看，而不是
出新的想法，多去嘗試，對我來說更有趣多變，
成真。攝影師能作的事情，是情緒與燈光氛圍的
你用了什麼技巧去拍。回到最根本的原則，就是
其實變化本身，就是一種常態。
營造，比如要把定的東西拍出動的感覺、明暗代
要把麵煮好，把人拍美。」我聽了這個故事恍然
表的視覺語言，或是情緒誘導、按下快門的時機
大悟，問題也迎刃而解了。
最近想拍的主題是？
等等，攝影師就必須要在這些地方動腦筋，否則
把想法實際表現出來的方法是什麼？
最後也只是造型作品而不是攝影作品了。
攝影器材尤其是相機變得方便普及，真正 的攝影師需要具備什麼條件或是技能？
最近想拍的主題很多，也都在發展想法當中，
時尚攝影師該如何培養好的眼光與美感？ 攝影是一件相當容易入門的事，但是要精通卻很
有個一直在腦中反覆思索的主題是「我有罪」， 這個系列想要討論的是每個人的陰暗面和多重面
我常常看電影，喜歡的電影會看很多次，第一次
難，要能夠把心裡的想法以影像的方式敘述出
向，探討和分析人性是我很有興趣的主題。拍照
看劇情，後面幾次會觀察畫面的光與色調，攝影
來，精確並完整的表達，前製期的思考與計畫都
的前期思考是很重要的，而要用平面影像來把
師的觀察力相當重要，而電影中的燈光經常是打
很重要，而不是事後再去修改，這和拿著相機到
這個主題表現出來，又是另外一個需要思考的
得很仔細，多看是有幫助的。我有時候也會看插
處拍，是不一樣的兩件事，而電腦的後製，其實
題目，如何去確切的表達主題的方法有很多，
畫，幫助自己的構圖與引導模特兒的能力，插畫
不需要太拘泥，它只是達成效果的一種工具手
去發掘方法是一種困難也是樂趣，這個主題是要
能夠表現出每一個創作者的想像力，其實會比看
段，一直去鑽有沒有電腦後製這件事，是很無聊
以情緒表現，還是造型堆疊，有太多種方式可以
照片來得更有張力。當然多看各式各樣的作品也
的，所有的工具都該是可以變通的，對器材也是
用，如果想要一直挑戰自己，就可以屏棄之前用
可以培養美感，只是在看的時候必須一面思考，
一樣，不應該有所限制，應該要更專心去面對「
過的方法，重新思考，久而久之就會有很多梗
這裡為什麼會這樣拍？情緒是如何引導出來的？
拍攝」。
可以用了。
為什麼模特兒要這樣擺？這個想法是如何發展出 來的？如果光是去看而不思考，反而會不小心被
對拍攝裸體的看法是？
對於藝術與商業的攝影有什麼看法？
影響，讓作品跑進別人的影子。 其實這很難定義，只要是多數人認為「美」的都
人都喜歡去窺探禁忌，越是羞恥的事情就越愛探
我非常喜歡日本雜誌huge，這是一本高端的男性
可以是藝術，這些藝術也都是由技術轉變而來
討，許多話題也因此與慾望有關。其實我覺得裸
時尚生活雜誌，內容營造出令人嚮往的生活，無
的，其實對藝術家來說，更要會行銷自己，和商
體非常難拍，在拍攝裸體的時候，自己也像是裸
論是版型、閱讀線、主題性明確流暢一致，讓人
業的攝影比起來，也並沒有比較輕鬆，商業攝影
露的一樣，想到什麼就會拍到什麼，那是很直接
覺得光是滿足市場並不是全部，我們還是需要很
更像是在考驗拿相機的人的「不良率」有多低，
的，心裡在想什麼會毫無保留的反映出來，當然
多很前端、很概念、很創作的東西。
另外在拍攝時與客戶溝通協調的技巧也算是一門 藝術，我反而覺得，把商業這塊做好，並且還是
如果你對影像沒有雜念，你拍的影像也不會有雜 念。我會喜歡拍攝一些裸露，卻不是完全裸體
攝影技術的重要性在哪裡？
有許多想法、能夠完整表達的，才能算是真正的 藝術家。
的，可以保留一些想像空間。 攝影技術在攝影的執行當中，只佔了很小一部
一場時尚單元的拍攝中，造型師、妝髮
份，但它卻是不能缺少的基礎。這讓我想到前輩
師、模特兒都各有其重要性，然而視覺上
攝影師林炳存曾經告訴我一個關於牛肉麵的故
的最終呈現，成敗往往落在攝影師身上，
事，我多年前曾經在拍一個唱片的案子之前，天
攝影師在時尚攝影的角色定位是什麼？
氣不好，又遇到器材的問題，整個人很焦躁，林
-end-
大哥跟我說：「一個賣牛肉麵賣了30年的人，
71
“Every obstacle in life is the same, not just with photography. When we trek along the path of life and come to a brick wall, we must exert all efforts to get over that wall. If you believe in what you are doing, and keep moving forward, the wall eventually will disappear.�
72
Do you have a particular photography style?
We all know that photo shoots in Europe or North
has been cooking noodles for 30 years would sud-
America are a bit different than those done in Tai-
denly wake up and worry about how he was going
wan in that the photographer may not be the lead.
to make his noodles today? No, because he would
I’ve always believed that having your own ‘style’
Sometimes it could be the stylist, or artistic direc-
just use the methods he always uses, to prepare his
may not be the best thing. A photographer should
tor that has an idea and the photographer would
soup and cook his noodles. Customers don’t really
be a chameleon and be able to adapt to different
work to present that idea through the camera. It’s
care what methods you use as long as the noodles
clients, themes, and models; changing and experi-
about a combination of everyone’s creative energy
taste great! The basis of photography is the same
menting with new ideas is much more interesting.
and thought to make an idea a reality. To me, a pho-
because all clients want the same thing- they want
Change itself is inevitable.
tographer’s job is to create a mood and atmosphere
the photos to look good. They don’t really care what
that can allow for visual communication and to
methods you use. All customers want great tasting
bring life to an object.
noodles, and all clients want a beautiful picture”.
What are you interested in shooting lately? How do you translate an idea in your head into an actual photo shoot? I have many ideas lately and am still trying to de-
How does a fashion photographer train his/her eye for beauty?
velop them further. One particular theme I have in
After hearing this it really gave me an epiphany, and the problems I seemed to be having just went away.
Photography equipment is easy to buy these days, however, what is it exactly does a photographer need to be equipped with?
mind centers around “guilt”; I want to bring forth
I watch a lot of movies; sometimes I’ll even watch it
the darker sides of human nature and people’s per-
more than once. The first time I’ll be focusing on the
sonalities. Examining human nature has always
story line, and the second time on the movies’ light-
interested me. The amount of thought that goes
ing and color combination. A photographer’s obser-
before a photo shoot is extremely important. How
vation abilities are crucial. Sometimes I’ll look at il-
to clearly and soulfully present your theme onto
lustration pieces too because they tend to be more
Photography provides easy entry for beginners,
print and what methods you will use, whether you
creative and imaginative. Of course a photographer
however to be good at it is extremely difficult. You
will use facial emotion or wardrobe styling to do
should really try to observe all types of imagery and
have to be able to translate ideas in your head into
so, have to be considered. If you want to challenge
visual work and examine why it is created the way
a still photo, and be able to move and touch peo-
yourself then you would forget all the methods you
it is. Observing without introspection is dangerous,
ple’s hearts. Careful consideration before and after
used before and aim to try something different.
because you may be influenced to do things a cer-
you take a photo are important. Computer editing
Over time you’ll start to really develop your capa-
tain way without clear thought.
tools are useful in creating an effect you want but it shouldn’t be the center focus. The main focus should
bilities as a well-rounded photographer. I am a big fan of the Japanese magazine called
be “how” you are going to take the photo rather
What do you think of nude photography?
“Huge”. It’s a fashion and lifestyles magazine aimed
than on what equipment or tools you should use.
It’s sort of in human nature to like to peep or peek
We really need more creative, conceptual, and for-
at things that are more taboo or risqué; a lot of
ward-thinking magazines out there because satis-
human discussion also center on sexuality and de-
fying market demands should not be everything in
sire. Nude photography to me is extremely difficult.
a creative field.
at a male audience. The magazine’s outline, design, articles, and theme is always cohesive and unified.
then your photo will come out that way. I like to leave a bit of mystery to so-called ‘nude photos’ by
What is the importance of photographic technique?
The stylist, make-up artist, hair stylist, and model all hold important roles in a photo shoot; however, the success or failure of a photo seems to lie with the photographer. What role or position does the photographer have in a fashion shoot?
artistic photographers, I think it’s important to know how to market yourself; it really isn’t any easier than commercial photography. For commercial photographers it’s more about your success rate
not revealing too much, and leaving most to one’s imagination.
This is quite difficult to define because most people think that whatever is beautiful is artistic. For
What’s going on in your head will be directly reflected in the shots you take. If your mind is pure,
What is the difference between artistic and commercial photography?
Photographic technique takes a small role when
versus your failure rate. In other words, verbal com-
you’re taking the actual photo, however it’s the
munication with clients is extremely important and
most important basis of photography it self. This
is an art itself. Ensuring that clients are happy with
reminds me of a story that photographer Joshua Lin
the outcome is crucial. To me a true artist ensures
once told me.
commercial elements and needs are met without sacrificing creativity.
Few years ago I was taking photos for a CD album and that day the weather was horrible and I was
-end-
having problems with my equipment. It was then that Joshua asked me, “do you think a chef who
73
攝 影 的 另 一 種 面杜 向韻 飛 的 ﹁ 生 殤 相 ﹂
Interview : Kate Linter, Kuan Chang Chen Photographer : Kuan Chang Chen 74
以安樂死前的流浪狗作為拍 攝主題，就像是一支放大 鏡，一系列的「生殤相」攝 影作品，將那些們很輕易被 忽視了的題目與情緒，倏地 放大在眼前，赤裸裸的、強 烈的視覺經驗，杜韻飛的 影像讓人重新思考了很多事 情，與攝影有關的、與動物 有關的、與生命有關的。
75
如何開始拍攝「生殤相」這個主題？為什麼
下的情緒是沒有出口的，而且當時的困境是一種
會選擇這樣的主題？
社會背景、是無力抵抗的，所以小時候思考到與 死亡有關的事，都是來自於這個壓力。因此當我
起初我是以攝影作為工具，去關注流浪動物的議
到了收容所，像一般人一樣感到害怕的時候，我
題，想讓動物的情感被看見，讓人知道動物也是
發現這個主題更像是一種自拍像。
有感的主體，和人類一樣都是有知覺跟感覺。而 近期我發現，這個主題背後其實隱藏著自己過往
創作本身是會有自我實踐的目的，那是利己的部
的經驗，那應該是有關於我小時求學當時實行的
份，我想一個創作如果也具有利他的能量，那 會
打罵教育，印象中每天坐在教室裡總是充滿了恐
是更好的事，「生殤相」引起的某些影響，我想
懼，擔心自己什麼時候又會挨打，我想在這情況
就包含了這種能量。
有想到作品曝光後會帶來這麼大的的回響？
我是想到的。我覺得這是一個攝影師在做過媒體方面的工作後，可以預期的事情，只是沒有想到反 應會那麼大。但是在美聯社的採訪後，全世界幾十個國家都報導了這件事情，包括幾個熟悉的國際 媒體都報導過後，這個效益則是一開始無法預期的。但我想這與我使用灰色背景拍攝有關。當流浪 動物已經脫離了環境後，無論是室內或室外的收容所，或是在流浪的狀態，在灰色背景的隔離之 後，就沒有景象、沒有植被、沒有標示、沒有文字，成為一個全世界的語彙與議題，無論是何處的 人看見這個影像，馬上可以聯想自己所處地方的動物議題，全世界都可以藉此去探討苦受難的動物 的情況。
這個企劃已執行多久了？
皆知，似乎做到怎樣殘忍也不會有人知道，因
可以免於恐懼的。在動保人士的訴求是要保護
執行企劃中的想法是？
為只要有人處理掉就可以了。
動物之下，安樂死這件事情是沒有必有去討論 的，但是當一年有六到八萬隻動物被安樂死的
76
這是一個五年的計劃，目前為止已經持續三年
當談到動保並且牽扯到台灣人的生死觀的時
時候，這件事情就必須要被討論。
了。早在2010年底，在作品尚未全數完成與定
候，一般都是一句「好死不如賴活著」。全世
型前開始展覽「生殤相」時還不確定展出的意
界都有動物的問題，美國一年安樂死的動物有
當我要拍一隻狗，我能預知牠可以呈現出想要
義是什麼，或者是不是一件好事。但事後發現
五百萬隻以上，其中包含四百萬隻貓和一百
的效果，但牠在拍攝當下很恐懼，我會選擇不
它所帶來的效應，和某些關鍵人物所帶來的連
萬隻狗，為什麼會有這種數量但路上都看不到
拍攝這隻狗，，這是一個五年的攝影計畫，因
結的確不是一件壞事。
流浪動物呢？當美國人要棄養動物時都帶到收
此我有足夠時間與機會，當下不需要為了達成
容所去讓制度處理。在台灣，一般棄養動物的
自己拍攝的目的而不擇手段，所以無論是對於
因為媒體的報導，一位新北市議員帶我去監督
人認為送到收容所很麻煩，而且一旦知道有安
自己或是被拍攝的對象，五年時間是彈性的。
市內的獸醫師，並把不適任的獸醫師撤離，光
樂死，就寧願把動物丟到外面。所以我想傳達
是這件事情就讓新北市每年數千隻的動物接受
的是，當然動保機構的觀念在傳達的是「保護
了人道的安樂死。台灣的動物安樂死是採用外
動物的權利」，我不希望有安樂死，在健全的
包的制度，是一種每年招標的業務，這種制度
法律與制度下，過剩動物的安樂死其實是可以
要外包的原因，是因為沒有人想要做這種工
避免的，可是在現下的法律，環境，與制度下
作，所以在某一個範圍裡，只要不要做到人盡
安樂死是不可避免的，至少他們在這個過程是
有人認為你在消費這些即將安樂死的 小狗，你的想法是？
對於這些畫面大多數的人感覺不忍卒睹，但有更多的人認為這是一種剝削， 剝削動物達成攝影師的個人成就，身為一個創作者，我有自我實踐的需要， 加上攝影本身就具有某種剝削性格，因此我不否認這個成份的存在，但這問 題必須要思考的部分包含：作品達到什麼效果？作品中學習到什麼或傳達了 什麼？以及我用什麼態度或方式去對待這些動物？在這段拍攝過程中不斷學 習，以更好的方式去面對處理，雖然這樣的方式並無法全然解釋所謂的剝 削，但至少能達到某些平衡，即使這解釋對某些人來說仍是不夠的。
開始攝影生涯的契機是？ 學習攝影的過程是？
高中到瑞士讀書，第二年的時候開始學攝影。
我們可以經由工具去增加經
驗與感受，而工具可以擴大感受的層面，所以攝影對我來說一直都不是技術 層面的東西，它永遠包括人類所有的活動，包括哲學、文學、音樂等等。所 以對我來說，攝影更像是一種「表達」的工具。
2011/09/23 12:57 p.m. 台灣某公立收容所 距離安樂死執行時間: 1.1小時
使用灰色背景拍攝的效果與執行過程？拍攝中使用到的技巧是？
當我開始這個計劃幾個月後，我發現要將動物以人像的方式拍攝是不可能
「生殤相」這個主題會如何發展？是否從原有的經驗去延伸？
的，因為當動物坐着的時候，他們的後盤會比較厚實，前腳會比較短導致身 體往前頃，但因為灰色背景隔離的水平的概念，在拍照的時候上肢是斜的，
我希望未來的作品搭配一些人物的肖像，然後經由一些場景的拍攝能夠跟肖
看他傾斜角度是多少我就做相對的回應，最後像片沖出來的結果就會是勻稱
像作搭配，能夠感受到多一些紀實的味道和獲取更多的資訊。接下來我希望
的角度。他們無法擺出或維持特定的姿勢，所以拍照就變成一件非常迅速的
可以去接觸「執行者」這個角色，這些執行者是被制度推到最前線來，制度
事情。
面並沒有看到他們的情感、他們的恐懼或者是整個過程。我覺得收容所應該 做好收容所的功能，在最後這個階段做好「人道」更是份內的工作。通常旁
我非常喜歡看不見技術所呈現的真實性，我認為越沒有技術就越看不見技術
人都會認為收容所這種第一線的地方就是劊子手，也是罪惡的集中地。其實
的痕跡，太多技術的痕跡，對我的作品而言是種干擾，所以在拍「生殤相」
罪惡的根源是我們全民、我們的法律還有法律執行的單位。
的時候，只有使用一盞單燈、描圖紙、反光板，至於背景是一片用油漆塗刷 了3年多的帆布，經過後製來讓畫面變得平整，與色溫及灰階的一致性。
接下來這個主題的拍攝，計畫是15張狗肖像、15張執行者肖像、15張場 景。原初只想拍攝狗的肖像，也未有將攝影出書的計劃，一開始只想拍一張
-end-
照片，並在這張照片裡體現某個階段的美學概念呈現的總結，目前則是致力 於突破這張照片，當投入一個議題的時間夠長，就能從中得到新的想法。
2011/09/23 12:57 p.m. 台灣某公立收容所_距離安樂死執行時間：1.1小時 / 2011/06/13 11:44 a.m. 台灣某公立收容所_距離安樂死執行時間：40分鐘 / 2011/10/24 12:09 p.m. 台
在某次拍攝場景時，有一塊作為醫生驗屍確認狗是否死亡的襯墊，那是別人 捐贈淘汰的被單或布料，布面上沾染了血跡與屎尿，但對照於布面上101忠
灣某公立收容所_距離安樂死執行時間：1.9小時 / 2011/11/28 10:54 a.m. 台灣某公立收 容所_距離安樂死執行時間：1.2小時
狗的印花圖案，卻格外顯得諷刺與弔詭。因此我慢慢發現，從一些細微的場 景中，傳遞這個議題的諷刺意味，以及閱讀上的感受。 77
2011/11/28 10:54 a.m. 台灣某公立收容所 距離安樂死執行時間: 1.2小時
Euthanasia magnified. Photographer Yun Fei Tou
death came from these pressures at school and the
matter where you are in the world, you see these im-
captures portraits of the final moments in the lives
education and social paradigm of the time. When I
ages and you can relate. The suffering of animals is
of shelter dogs in his work “Memento Mori”. Those
stepped in to the animal shelter, I experienced anxi-
a global issue and it’s the perfect opportunity for the
overlooked subjects and forgotten emotions are
ety and sadness like most people do, and I realized
world to really see and face these problems.
boldly presented; raw and clear. Tou’s images make
that this project has sort of become a self-reflection
us re-think many things, whether it is about photog-
of my childhood and an overall depiction of ‘fear’.
raphy, about animals, or about life.
Do you have a particular photography style?
How long has this project been going on? What was the process like?
Creativity embodies a form of commercial value; that’s the beneficial aspect to one self. However if
This project started three years ago. At first it was a
one’s work can have social value and assist others,
five-year plan. However, when I first started show-
then it would have greater meaning. I think “Me-
casing the photos of “Memento Mori”, I wasn’t quite
I’ve always believed that having your own ‘style’
mento Mori” was able to touch people and thus re-
sure of the meaning behind it. I didn’t know if it was
may not be the best thing. A photographer should
ally have some sort of social meaning.
a good or positive thing to do. It wasn’t until I start-
be a chameleon and be able to adapt to different clients, themes, and models; changing and experimenting with new ideas is much more interesting.
Did you think that your work would receive this much attention?
ed seeing the effects it had on viewers and the discourse it had kindled did I realize that it’s definitely not a bad thing.
Change itself is inevitable.
How did you start this project? Why did you choose this subject?
Yes I knew it would. Having worked in media in-
Because of the media attention the photos received,
dustries before, I anticipated it, but I didn’t know
New Taipei City asked me to supervise the shelter
it would come to this extent. After AP did an inter-
vets, and to remove any vets that weren’t doing their
view with me, close to 20 other countries around
job. Just by doing this we ensured that tens of thou-
At first I was merely using photography as a tool to
the world reported on it. That was something un-
sands of animals received at least a humane death.
bring attention to the issues surrounding stray ani-
expected.
The Taiwan government’s euthanasia program is
mals. I wanted to let people know that animals have
outsourced to private companies. The reason it is
feelings too, just like we do. Recently I started to re-
I think perhaps it has something to do with using a
outsourced is because no one internally wants to do
alize that a part of my past is perhaps hidden in my
grey backdrop in my photos. When stray animals are
the job. The problem is as long as it is ‘taken care of’
work. When I was young, I’d sit in the classroom eve-
taken out of an environmental context, whether it is
no one bothers to ask how it is done.
ryday, worried and fearful about being spanked by
an indoor or outdoor environment or shelter, with
my teacher. It’s an emotion that I was never able to
the grey background there’s no label, no language,
The Taiwanese conception of life and death and
say out loud and as a young child, my impressions of
no category. The picture becomes a global issue; no
about stray animals is generally that “it is better
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2011/10/24 12:09 p.m. 台灣某公立收容所 距離安樂死執行時間: 1.9小時
to die than to live in pain”. Stray animals are a glo-
ment.
bal problem. In the U.S each year, over five million animals are put down. Four million of them are cats,
Next I hope to capture 15 more dog portraits, 15
and one million are dogs. The numbers are stagger-
executioners, and 15 different settings. There are
ing yet you don’t see any strays on the streets. It’s
plans to perhaps publish these photos into a book
because Americans take unwanted animals to the
as well.
shelter, whereas in Taiwan, most people think shelters are too much hassle and practice euthanasia, and thus would rather abandon them on the streets.
technical, as it involves human beings, culture, literature, music, and philosophy. To me photography
Some may think that you are taking advantage of these death-row dogs. What do you say to that?
is a form of expression.
You mentioned that you used a grey backdrop in your photos. What techniques or effect does that bring to the portrait? Months after I started this project, I realized that you couldn’t photograph animals the way you pho-
What I hope to say is if the current law states that animals must be put down, at least it can be done
Many people find these photos shocking and haunt-
tograph human beings. When animals are sitting
so humanely and with the welfare of the animal in
ing, but even more people feel that these dogs are
their rear is thicker, and their body becomes shorter,
mind. For many activists, euthanasia is not openly
being exploited for the photographer’s own benefit.
causing their whole figure to lean forward. The grey
talked about but when close to one hundred thou-
I don’t deny that, but the more important question
background can sort of hide the angles and then
sand animals are put down annually in Taiwan, this
is what do these pictures help us achieve? What do
when I shoot I try to make the shot balanced. Ani-
issue must be discussed.
you learn from these photos? What kind of attitude
mals aren’t able to do any set poses, so the photo-
am I using when interacting with these animals? I’m
shoot itself is quite fast.
What’s next for “Memento Mori”?
learning a lot through the process and finding better and better ways to deal with the subject. I know
I really like photos that are free of any technical ele-
I hope to start incorporating some human portraits,
it may not be enough of an explanation but good in-
ments. To me if the picture is clean and free of tech-
including those of, for lack of a better word, the
tention and balance is important.
nical distractions or props, it makes a great piece. In
How did you get into photography? What has the process been like?
tor, and some tracing paper. I then use post-editing
executioner. These people have been pushed to the front lines, yet their emotions or fear seems to have been disregarded and are never shown. I think animal shelters not only need to house animals but also need to really pay attention to the animal’s welfare.
I went to high school in Switzerland and was intro-
Most people think that shelters are a place of evil
duced to photography in my second year. To me, we
and sin, but in reality, the evil and sin lies with citi-
can use certain tools to augment our experiences
zens of this society, the legislature, and the govern-
and sensations; thus photography to me exceeds the
my photos I usually use just a single light, a reflecto finely finish the photos.
-end-
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Mega Port
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大港開唱
t Festival
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錄
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Call for Submissions Abook Magazine 16
登
Animal Arithmetic
+ × ÷ 從冰島歌手Jónsi的音樂Animal Arythmetic裡，彷彿看見了一幅人
動
類與動物們在廣闊的大地上，一起跳舞奔馳的歡樂畫面，輕快地、 自然地、和平地。
物
人類應該是愛著動物的，從各種方面出發。我們吃動物、穿動物、 觀賞動物、和動物生活在一起。我們也用動物作為象徵的符號與擬人
的
化的對象，有數不清的故事是以動物為主角：伊索寓言、格林童話、 中國古典文學等等。
+ × ÷
四 而這些對於動物種種感情都該讓我們用視覺重新詮釋一次。無論 是愛、無論是慾望、無論是諷刺、無論是血腥。
則 運 算
+ × ÷
Through Icelandic singer Jonsi’s song “Animal Arythmetic”, we see what appears to be a celebration of animals and humans, living in harmony. Dancing, joyous, natural and free. Humans should have a love for animals; in all aspects of life, we encounter and we coexist with them. We eat, wear, and are entertained by animals. We use animals as symbols of divinity or of a greater power. Countless stories and myths center around animals; Aesop’s Fables, Grimm’s Fairy Tales, and classical Chinese literature often have animals as the protagonist or part of the main cast. Whether it be love, desire, exploitation, or sacrifice.....the human relationship with animals is complex and deserving of contemplation.
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+ × ÷
+ × ÷
We attempt to present a visual rendition of the ‘human-animal’ affair. “The basic principle of equality does not require equal or identical treatment; it requires ‘equal consideration’ -Peter Singer
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Nuovo Mondo
PHOTOGRAPHER : Ying Wei Tang PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT : Fresco Su DESIGNER : Cello Ong/ Ken Fong ART DIRECTION / STYLIST: Cello Ong RETOUCHING : Victoria/Studio Dolce Vita MODEL : Gabriel Lefelman / Base Model Management (UK) MUA/HAIR : Mika Furukawa/MGW London 88
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The Forest
PHOTOGRAPHER : Ryan Del Espitiru Santo ART DIRECTION/DESIGNER/STYLING: Cello Ong RETOUCHING: Victoria/Studio Dolce Vita MODEL: Camilla Prigiotti/Glamour Model Management (Italy) MUA/HAIR: Af Del Espiritu Santo
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每年大約 7 3 0 0 萬隻鯊魚被捕殺，台灣為 前 5 大捕殺國之一，近 30 年來全球鯊魚數 量已下降百分之90 ，捕殺魚翅的過程不僅 殘忍，也打亂海洋生態平衡，魚翅已是過 時的傳統，請您結婚請客時。
台灣防止虐待動物協會 www.spca.org.tw
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追 拒求 吃環 魚保 翅時 尚
國際名模 林嘉綺 95
www.ABOOK.cc 96