JUL. 2020 ISSUE 37
Cover Story
張震
即將迎接「新」生
後疫情時代,周裕穎
歐陽靖
的『永續新思維』
張震×伍佰
#ABOOKChallenge
極機密拍攝企劃
獲選作品
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Dec 1 0 4 台北市內湖區港墘路221巷39 -1號
No 39-1 Lane 221 Gangqian Road Taipei
T e l : ( 0 2 ) 2 657-16 6 6 F a x:( 0 2 ) 2 657-15 5 5 E m ai l : i n fo @ a b ook st u dio.com We b s i t e : w w w.ab ook m agazin e.com
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發行 Publisher 意團隊有限公司 ABOOK STUDIO 總編輯 Chief Editor 林炳存 Joshua Lin 副執行長 Deputy Director 姜安妮 Annie Chiang 統籌 Production Supervisor 曾譯萱 Tonnie 創意總監 Creative Director 林炳存 Joshua Lin 視覺主編 Design Director 游晶涓 Jane 文字主編 Editor 曾譯萱 Tonnie Mincer 攝影編輯 Photography Editors A Yuan / Kuan / Ash / Tonnie 採訪編輯 Assistant Editor 曾譯萱 Tonnie 造型總監 Styling Director 林夢薇 Monfi Lin 翻譯編輯 Translation Editor Connie Chiang 行政管理 Administration 張騰元 A Yuan 英國特駐 Overseas Editor Linda Cooper 執行公關 Marketing / PR 星予公關 Starfish Concept
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Editor's Note 腐是有點負面的字意,為什麼以腐來做標題 是想延續上期的暫停,對現況的探討與反思
視覺上想呈現出對比,從亮麗進行轉而腐爛 腐爛後創生再現美麗,有些表現是鋪敘過程 有些則暗寓腐美共存
專訪的生命歷程之中,揭示美麗新生的前提 來自於內或外在的腐,明白腐蝕人世的病菌 寄生在貪求與浪費裡
腐/生平衡對等演變,輪轉不斷才會有創新 順境裡牽憂是否永續,逆勢中尋求向上循環
upcycling 是這期想傳達的意義
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The word “ decay ” has somewhat negative connotations to it, so many people might wonder why we chose to use “decay” as our topic for this issue?
The main purpose is, we want to continue the dialogue from the last issue, and reflect on the situation right now in our world. Visually, we want to create something that strays from the stereotypical imagery associated with “ decay ” or “ rot ” (which is perhaps more dark and mysterious) and experiment with different interpretations of the word. Can decay be portrayed using bright and colorful elements? Is Upcycle a more positive term? With decay comes regeneration, and new life. So in that sense, there must be a type of decay in order for there to be change or growth."Decay" and “life” may seem dichotomous, but if we see it as equally important in creating an equilibrium, then perhaps we can move past the negative connotations and view decay in a positive manner.
Can decay stand for innovation? Sustainability? Even creativity?
總編輯
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CONTENTS
Editor’s Note
Cover Story
Our Fashion Our Style
Style
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10
140
24
編輯的話
封面故事
彩妝專欄
張震
Monfi's Talk
張震 × 伍佰 極機密拍攝企劃
56 Our Fashion Our Style 時尚攝影 56 STAY WITH ME _ Kuan
124 Tsuen 屯 _ Jessie Ho
74 Transparent Nights _ TONNIE
148 The world is blurry_ 江俊民
96 GRADIENT 漸變 _ ASH
154 共生共同 _ 共同創作 A4(21297)
114 THE ART OF ATONEMENT_ A Yung Chang 176 生生 _ TONNIE
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Photography
Column
Interview
From Reader
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Joshua Lin Photography
Column 專欄
林炳存 專欄
40 後疫情時代,周裕穎的『永續新思維』
30 空氣、水、自己
84 即將迎接「新」生的歐陽靖
192 Upcycling
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ABOOK's Pick
Interview 訪談
荒屋 MOOR ROOM
68 沒有理所應當的廢棄品
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新銳藝術家 林明修 106 你有多自律就有多自由 Miyake
From Readers 186 李柏毅 190 焦慮關係 _ 戴宏霖
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#ABOOKChallenge 獲選名單與名人評語
每當
Though, no matter how advanced photography becomes
物種生存達到極致時
There are some things, that just seem irreplaceable
將進入毀滅的排程,觸發演化的開始 Just like,
拍照歷經演化,目前幾乎被數位主導
Excessiveness creates a need for change
時常覺得攝影已經不是當初的攝影
And change is almost imminent
現在的科技像素又是以往底片無法企及的表現
But some key elements, will always stay important and
就算如此,無論時代如何推進,總有回首思望時
unwavering
有些美好,在心中還是無法取代
Like the soul purpose of photography
每種事物做到浮濫之後 必然會有新的改變而生 新的改變也必然存在著不變
高金金
就像 水是重生的重要元素,萬物萬種都需要 而攝影的水,永遠是想法,與那刻想拍攝的起心
Every time, When the carrying capacity of an environment reaches its maximum You enter a stage of death and destruction The beginning of an evolution
Photography has evolved into the digital era And photography now does not mean the same as it did before Modern technology replaces and replenishes what traditional photography couldn’t.
伍佰:整個平衡感 做的很好,表現出 水的禪意。
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Hyee-sin Shieh
伍佰:這拍的不錯,很有層次、有趣。將水拍得像寶石 一樣。然後浴缸又把水拍得很日常。
李宗銘
伍佰:有把水的野性拍出還,活力澎湃,有刺激到我。 最後一張很妙,把緊張感歸於日常,畫面那個紅,很有 感覺。
Jamie Huang
伍佰:這個水,不好拍。蠻不簡單的。
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UPCYCLE
再生再升級
PHOTOGRAPHER / 伍佰 MAKEUP & HAIR/ 亞莉 STYLIST / MONFI LIN
Cover Story
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ABOOK 這次的特殊拍攝計畫,讓我們有機會可以近身採 訪這位神祕低調的演員 - 張震。一般印象中,張震的剛毅神 態下總是帶著一抹邪逸、傲桀不馴的氣息。在演出、或拍攝 的狀態下,又不時能感受到那雙瞳孔在投射不同的角色印 象,很深邃、很往心裡鑽;由他眼神交織出的氣場,又是那 樣穩定而厚實,身為觀眾,很難不著迷、很難將視線從他的 演出移開啊! 而採訪之後,筆者琢磨著該如何形容受訪當下的張震呢?是 帥的很隨性、率真的滑板男孩?還是沈潛自然、漫步古道的 森林管理員?就請 ABOOK 讀者朋友從本次的獨家專訪中, 自己感受不一樣的張震囉!
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A:關於這次秘密拍攝計畫,你有什 麼想法嗎?
A : 有關於人生晉級的感覺? 人生一直都在進階呀,每一天、過一天都有不一
基本上今天拍攝感覺是滿開心,我也期待蠻久
樣的收穫,我自己可以分為幾個階段,念書的時
的,因為跟炳存大哥還有伍佰老師,其實都認識
期是一個階段,然後剛開始從事演員工作的前十
滿長的時間。尤其是跟大哥認識非常長的時間,
年是一個階段;我現在這個十年,我覺得又是另
我哥哥以前有跟大哥一起工作一段時間,然後
外一個階段,當然在每個階段有每個階段不一
我們也算是有一點私交。大哥先前都有邀請來
樣,有趣的地方也會有一些挫折,跟有一些不知
ABOOK 的拍攝,但因為工作的關係,就沒有辦
道該如何是好的時候,就是面對一個一個人生的
法參與,這次第一次來,又是一個比較特別的企
課題就不斷的去突破、去解決或改進。現階段人
劃,我覺得蠻有意思的,也很期待。
生的想法就是遇到事情可以盡量真正去面對,去 改善也好,或者是改變也好。
自己很欣賞伍佰老師,然後這次拍攝,對我來講, 時間過得好快,我以為會再拍久一點,但是沒有。
A:哪個角色更接近你本來的性格?
這次有別以往,確實是蠻有意思,平常工作拍照, 時間都抓的比較準確,可以玩的東西就比較少一
不管哪個角色,其實多多少少都會有自己的一些
點。所以這次拍攝想說可以有一些新的感覺可以
影子在,因為我覺得從頭開始去演繹一個無中生
帶給看到的人,對自己也是有一個這樣的期許,
有的人,其實蠻難的。通常我的習慣會是從我喜
這樣的期許也比較符合今天 upcycle 的概念。
歡這個劇本,從我喜歡這個人物開始,這個人物 吸引我的地方是哪裡?跟我的共通點是哪裡?然
A:這次拍攝概念“UPCYCLE 再生再 升級”, 角色下戲後,對自己有過改變 嗎?有重生或是人生進階的感覺嗎?
後從比較有共通的地方開始,慢慢把劇本裡面有 的東西給到角色上。當然,我的創作方式是這樣 方式,所以幾乎在每個電影人物裡面,多多少少 都有一些自己的影子、有一些連結的地方。
當然 upcycle 這個主題,我覺得也是值得大家去思 考,尤其在現在的環境,發生很多不一樣的議題跟 概念,不斷刺激大家在生活上面有一些新的想法, 這樣的主題,其實對我來講也是蠻有意思的。
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A:你會怎麼看待自己?
檢察官那種,就是偵探!偵探有一種神秘感,要 偽裝自己,默默的在一旁去解決案件,去發現一
我還蠻簡單的,喜歡睡到自然醒。如果一早起來,
些平常人發現不到的事情。從這個切入角度,我
心情很好,我大概就知道今天可以過得不錯,不
覺得是很吸引人的,偵探小說裡面的偵探通常是
管那天面對什麼事情,我都會覺得 ok。
比較有心理上的缺陷,有的是酗酒,可能經歷過
但如果那天早上起來心情很不好,就會覺得完蛋
一些事,他要把不好的回憶壓住,通常是很壓抑
了,一整天可能都不想跟人講話,或者會覺得今
的、或是有身體上的殘疾,讓偵探這角色很有符
天做什麼事都會倒楣。不過,我還是希望就是給
號性。
人家,不管是認不認識或馬路上碰到人,給人家 一個好的反饋。我覺得別人會影響我,同樣的我 也會影響到別人。
A : 戲劇對你影響最深的是什麼?或是 最吸引你的地方在哪?
A:如果不當演員,您最想做什麼工 作,成為怎樣的身份? 我以前想要當森林管理員,就我自己住在山裡 面。森林管理員是因為我很喜歡大自然,我很喜 歡山,覺得當森林管理員可以認識植物和大自然
戲劇很好玩,也很難,因為怎樣的表演都會有人
有關的知識、可以觀察天候、觀察星空、而且山
喜歡,沒有特定一種表演是可以滿足每一個人,
林裡的感覺很寧靜,給我十足生活該有的味道,
所以我覺得很難。但是作為演員,我覺得這也是
又帶著有一點危險的感覺,這種感覺很極端,但
需要挑戰的地方,當然會希望你演的人物是大家
是很過癮。有一段時間,很喜歡去爬山,台北附
都會覺得很滿意和喜歡的,這非常難,會需要挑
近很多古道,其實我白天若有空會去古道去散
戰,所以每一次的工作機會,都是有挑戰的成分
步、爬爬山、簡單的健行。有時候跟朋友去,有
在裡面。
時候一個人去,在走的當下,我還會想說,如果 要我一個人待到晚上,我就不敢去了。也想過一
另一方面,好玩的部分是因為演員可以過不一樣
個人在山裡住,雖然還沒有試過,但一直會覺得
的人的生活,去體驗別人沒有辦法體驗到的生
這是其中一件會讓我很想做的事。
活,或者是自己從來不會想到可以變成的樣貌。
或者,當計程車司機也可以,我很喜歡開車,覺
你有機會在一、兩個月、或三個月或半年的時間,
得車子是男人的一個小小祕密基地,很私密的空
去試著貼近那樣子的生活,或是那個人的狀態,
間,可以開去你想要去的地方、在那個空間聽音
其實是我覺得很過癮的,這也是吸引我一直想要
樂。一個人開車,可以去看看不一樣的地方、去
繼續演戲的原因之一。
找到不一樣的路線。
A:你覺得現在的自己想要演哪種角 色,會感到挑戰而躍躍欲試?
A: 對於生活一直都很低調很神秘, 您認為生活是什麼?有沒有理想生活 的樣子?
我覺得是演喜劇,但喜劇很難。 沒有耶。我沒想過理想生活要怎樣,生活就是吃 還有,我自己很喜歡看偵探小說,很想演偵探,
喝拉撒睡(哈哈哈哈)。
不是警察喔!是偵探!這兩者不太一樣。也不是
其實我對未來的生活沒有任何憧憬。以前會想
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說,我要蓋一間怎樣的房子,我要過怎樣的一個
的東西,就會跟我生活是有相關聯的。
生活。現在不會,我覺得現在的每分每秒,其實 就是我的理想生活,想好好的享受、好好認真去 過這一分這一秒。
Chang Chen often times gives audiences a sense of mysteriousness; a secretive and spiritual demeanor. In his films we are so
A:生命中有沒有過低潮期,你怎麼 渡過的?對於身處低潮的人您會想對 他們說些什麼?
often captivated by the soulfulness of his eyes. He brings us into the character’s world to in tune with the storyline; we delve in to the plot as if we can feel all the emotions that his
多多少少一直都會有,時間過了,它就會過,走
character is feeling. It’s hard to stray away
出來就過了。
from his gaze.
我不知道大家是怎樣看,我自己一直覺得生命中
Perhaps this is his onstage persona. Because
是無時無刻都充滿了挑戰,有的時候知道是挑
the Chang Chen off screen is so casual, so
戰,有時候會刻意視而不見去迴避,有時候就鼓
relax, just like a skateboard boy we may
起勇氣去面對,其實都在於自己。但是作為一個
spot on the street. And, did you know he
表演的演員,我自己知道這些問題的存在,是想
once wanted to be a forest ranger? Did you
要逃也逃不掉的,因為願意面對自己,你會成長
know he loves to act in a comedy? Join us in
的越多,在表演上面,就更能深入地去刻畫人性。
discovering another side of Chang Chen that most are still unfamiliar with. The genuine,
A:您經常參與各大時尚活動,您認 知的時尚是什麼?做什麼會讓您覺得 很時尚?
straightforward, and down-to-earth Chang
還真沒有誒,追劇算不算一種時尚?我自己是沒
A:What did you think about today’s shoot?
有覺得自己很時尚,但是我覺得我是愛漂亮的
Chen.
人,雖然有時候滿邋遢、蠻隨性的,但還是會 稍微挑一下。雖然大部分的衣服都是牛仔褲跟 t
I was actually very happy with the shoot and
shirt,還是會多少挑一下,不會想要那種很外顯
I’ve been looking forward to it for a long time.
外放的,現在鞋子就流行要留 tag,我就會把它
I’ve known Joshua (ABOOK Editor-in-Chief)
剪掉,那種我就覺得不適合我,也沒有什麼勇氣
and Wubai (well-known music artist in Taiwan)
那樣穿東西。
for a very long time; my brother used to work with Joshua for a while, and so we are close
當然自己會有一套自己搭配的概念,自己基本
friends. I was asked several times to shoot
tone 調,會穿一些跟自己興趣相關的衣服,譬如,
for ABOOK MAGAZINE, but I was not able to
小時候喜歡玩滑板,最近又開始回頭玩滑板,想
participate due to my schedule. However, I
說現在不滑,以後就沒機會滑了。那玩滑板本身
think the special shooting project is cool and I
就是專門的穿衣文化,當然就會去選擇滑板的東
am looking forward to it.
西來做搭配,那就是生活的一部分。所以平常穿
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I’m also a big fan of Wubai, who is the guest photographer in this shoot, so time seem to fly by during the shoot. I thought we would shoot
A:You’ve played many characters; which character is most similar to your own personality?
for longer, but sadly we didn’t. I am excited to bring forth something different, something
No matter which character I play, there will
that readers haven’t seen before, and present
always be a shadow of the actor’s elements
my interpretation of “upcycling” in front of the
somewhere in there. I find it really hard to
camera.
portray a fictional character without putting in some of my own personality. When I get
A:The theme for this issue is “Upcycle”; what does the term mean to you?
a script, I look for things that I like about the character, and what attracts me to it. I look for similarities between me and him, and slowly relate it to the story. This is how I approach
Upcycle is a process that is worth exploring.
every role; I feel that in every film, the actors’
Especially in our environment now, many
own personality shines through more or less.
different things are happening , and it inspires and encourages people to have different ideas
A: How would you describe yourself?
and viewpoints about life. I think it’s really interesting.
I’m a simple person. I like sleeping in. If I wake up happy then I am pretty much sure I will have
A: How would you view the different stages in your life so far?
a good day. But if I wake up sad or upset, then I probably wouldn’t want to speak to anybody or do anything the whole day. Overall
Life is always moving and advancing. Everyday,
though, I feel that people influence and can
I learn something different and I gain some
be influenced by each other. So, I want to
in life. My life can be seen as split into a few
stay positive, towards people I know, and even
different stages. The first stage would be
people I don’t know.
my studying years in school. The next stage would be the first decade after becoming an actor. And the me now, is yet in another stage. What’s interesting is that each stage is very
A:What do you most like about acting? How has acting effected your life?
different. You will have to deal with different challenges, and sometimes you don’t know
Acting is so much fun, but so hard at the
how to overcome them. But with each life
same time. You can’t please everybody and
lesson, there is always a way to breakthrough
have everyone like your character. I think that
those obstacles. I’m at a point where I hope I
is what’s most challenging. Of course, I want
can embrace whatever life throws at me, and
people to like the character I played, but it’s
be open to change and improve.
not the case each time. Every job opportunity is a new challenge for me.
Cover Story
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On the other hand, acting is fun because you
quiet. For some time, I was really into mountain
get to live a different life along with each role.
climbing. There are a lot of trails in Taipei, and
You get to experience what most people do
sometimes I’d go hiking alone or with some
not have the opportunity to experience. You
friends. While hiking alone, I sometimes wonder
can become a different you, for a few months,
if I am capable to stay a night in the mountain.
and really live and experience the character.
Maybe I won’t dare! I still think about living
I think that is what’s most attractive to me
alone in the woods; it’s definitely something I
about being an actor.
want to put on my to-do-list.
A: Is there any particular type of role that you want to play? What role would you find challenging?
Or, to be a taxi driver, maybe. I love driving. I think the space in a car is every man’s little secret, private area. You can drive wherever you want, listening to music, looking around
I love comedies, but comedies are so hard.
for places you’ve never been to, or finding a
Also, I love detective stories, so I really want
different path to a certain destination.
to be a detective. Not a cop! But a detective! It’s kind of different. I don’t mean a prosecutor either, just a private detective! Detectives
A: You live a very low-key lifestyle. What kind of life do you want?
are so mysterious, and they have to disguise themselves to investigate a case, and to find
Life is just to eat, drink, and sleep as usual. I
out the truth. From this perspective I find it
don’t really have any particular thoughts about
very appealing to me. The detectives in the
what kind of life I want, however I used to
mystery novels often times have some sort of
dream about building my own house and living
personality flaws, or physical disability, and
a certain lifestyle. But now, I find that each
they hide these flaws deep within them. This
second and each minute in life is important
gives the characters semiotic meaning and
and every moment now is my dream life. You
makes these characters so interesting.
have to enjoy and live each moment.
A: If you weren’t an actor, what would you be?
A: Has there ever been a low point in your life? How did you overcome it?
I used to want to work as a ranger and live alone in the woods. I really love nature and
More or less everyone experiences some
the mountains. I would be interested to learn
sort of a low point in their lives. Time heals
more about plants, the weather, the stars;
everything, so with time you are able to rise
living in the woods seem so peaceful and
above it. I’m not sure how everyone else
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feels, but I find life is filled with all sorts
effort when picking out my outfits, but I don’t
of challenges. Sometimes you know it’s a
like to be too showy. It’s trendy now to leave
challenge, but sometimes you choose to ignore
certain tags on your clothes or shoes. But I
it. Whether you choose to fight or flight, it’s
purposely cut the tags off, because it’s just
all up to you. As an actor, you can’t hide
not my style. I don’t have the courage to wear
from some of the problems that you have to
certain things.
deal with. As long as you are able to be true to yourself, then there are opportunities to
Of course, I do prefer certain colors and
learn and grow. And perhaps these learning
tones. I wear clothes that also represent a type
opportunities can help us portray certain roles
of culture that I like. For example, I used to
better.
skateboard as a kid, and I’ve recently picked it up again. It’s now or never right? So, I’ve
A: What does fashion mean to you? How do you become so chic?
begun to wear clothes that are more skater
-end. I don’t find myself very fashionable actually. I binge watch various TV series! Does that make me fashionable? I see myself as just someone who likes to look good. Sometimes I’m very scrubby and sometimes I’m very casual. I’m a T-shirt and jeans type of guy. I do put in some
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ABOOK × 極機密拍
張震 × 伍佰 拍攝企劃
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A:這次拍攝對『upcycle』的詮釋有什麼想法? 伍佰: 之前聽到 upcycling 就是從腐裡面重生,這個是很久以 前我就知道的,要創造什麼就必須先破壞什麼,所以很多很好的 東西是從一堆腐爛、ㄧ堆雜物、一堆什麼東西裡面長出來的,那 用照相來表現是一種很有趣的方式,讓我去看看有什麼令人吸到 會很新奮的事情。
所以我設定了兩個小主題,第一個,他是樹林裡面的蟲,我在後 面設計了一個車燈,然後張震是蟲,從樹林裡面出來的。第二個, 我想要打的燈是黃昏,有一個賣花的人花都賣不出去,但是他還 是很開心的過那一天,“這就是人生”。我覺得拍照或是面對事 情的時候,都要有一個 attack, 那個 attack 就是視覺上的刺激、 聽覺上的刺激、思考上的刺激。
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A : 合作過程覺得如何? 伍佰:我覺得他超好拍的,他的表情不是表面的表情,是內心出來的表情,所以當他是蟲的時候, 他內心的柔軟感有出來,我一直想要拍出他的另一個面向,一般看到他,例如 whiskey ,就是很 splender,他以前有一個作品叫繡春刀,對我來講印象很深刻,那就是張震。但在鏡頭後面,我 想知道一些張震比較生活的事情。
A:你眼中的張震? 伍佰: 繡春刀,就很帥,亦正亦邪,其實我看他都是這樣子,看不到很爆衝,也看不到很往下掉 這樣子,整個人處在很平衡的狀態,滿優雅的。
看過很多電影,我不會去看演員名單,但是我看到有張震的時候都會嚇一跳,他的存在不太一樣, 不是那種張牙舞爪的存在,是一個特別的氛圍籠罩在他身旁,所以看他的表演會是很舒服的。
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A:Any thoughts about our theme "upcycle" ? In my mind upcycling is a type of rebirth; you must destroy something to create a new thing. So, it’s saying that many good things can grow from a pile of rotten things. It is a very interesting way to express the concept through photography. It’s an exciting topic to explore. So, for this shoot, I set two small themes. The first one, Chang Chen is a “bug” in the woods. I projected a car light in the back, and Chang Chen is coming out from the woods. Second, the light was set as if it’s dusk, and we are portraying a florist, who couldn’t sell all his flowers, but he is still positive and happy, because “hey, this is life!”. C’est La Vie! I think that when we are taking pictures or facing the problems in life, there must be an attack, we must fight. The attack for me is like a visual stimulation, auditory stimulation, cognitive stimulation.
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A:What did you think of the collaboration with Chang Chen? I think he is super easy to shoot. His expression is not a superficial one, but one coming from his heart. So when we asked him to be a worm (bug), his inner softness came out from his performance. I wanted to portray another aspect of him through the camera because we usually see him in something really elegant and regal like in his whiskey ads. Through my camera, I want to give people a glimpse of what he’s like normally and casually.
A:What is Chang Chen like in your eyes? He was in a movie called “Brotherhood of Blades”, which I loved. He was very handsome and his role was righteous and dark all at the same time. In fact, I think his real personality is probably like this as well? I watch a lot of movies, and I don’t pay much attention to the cast list, but I'm always excited when I see Chang Chen in the cast. He has a very memorable presence. There is a special aura that surrounds him and it’s very wonderful to see him perform.
-end.
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Air Myself 空氣、水、自己
Photography : Joshua Lin
Model : Jolie
Joshua Lin’s Photography
Creative Stylist : Monfi Lin
Assistant : Melody Chan
沈浸水中、沒了空氣 還能呼吸嗎?
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耳朵進了水、上面的世界發出的聲音 聽起來如此不同。
35
眼睛沉在水中 有勇氣睜開你的眼嗎?
眼睛睜開之後、世界看起來不一樣。 鼻子待在水中,就必須放棄呼吸,像是放棄生命,吸一大口氣,鼓鼓 的一口氣讓自己待在水裡,感受只有自己的世界,慢慢的吐氣,吐完 最後一口氣,來到了地球,新生的開始。
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Immersed in water, without air Can you still breathe? Water in your ears; the sounds of the world above sound so different Eyes surrounded by water Do you have the courage to open your eyes? The world looks so different with your eyes open Your nose stops breathing in and breathing out air It’s sort of like giving up your life, for a few seconds Now, take a deep breath, and hold it Let the water engulf you Stay in the water, and experience a world with just you, and only you Now slowly exhale Let out all the air you were holding in Come back to earth To a new life
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後疫情時代,周裕穎的 『永續新思維』 In the Post-Pandemic Era: Justin Yu-Ying Zhou’s "Sustainable New Way of Thinking"
Text by Mincer
Photo by 大帥
Column
最近,社群上看到你一系列 Luxxury Godbage 的作品,相當驚艷,可不可以和 ABOOK 讀者 聊一下這個系列的創作動機跟理念是什麼?
第三個核心精神:『世界上沒有所謂的廢棄物,只有
先從字面看 Luxxury Godbage,聽起來就是奢華的
設計創作方式,例如將紙袋改造成時鐘的創意概
垃圾,但垃圾特別用 GOD/ 上帝去替代。一般來
念。甚至透過社群媒體的分享,接到了荷蘭選品店
說,大家都抱持著世間所有東西是上帝給我們的
買手的訂單。我希望透過 Luxxury Godbage 的創作,
觀念,包括時間與物質。所以對我來講,廢棄的
顛覆現在大家普遍推廣溝通永續議題時的思考!用
東西,也都是來自上帝的禮物,例如作品剩下的
設計美感、潮流趨勢、藝術文化吸引大家關注喜愛
邊角料,它的形狀不是我們一開始預期,卻可以
後,了解到這是永續再造的產品,而非只單一溝通永
做出一些意料之外的獨特作品出來。
續、環保或者回收的成份,我想把永續變成一件很
懂不懂得如何去創作!』我們會回收二手衣、廢料、 邊角料、閒置物品,甚至是垃圾,去量身思考適合的
酷的事情! 系列的特色有幾個點,第一個就是把不同的時代 聯結在一起,以符號學的邏輯用設計創造經典融 合 Classic Fusion style 。 比如說,結婚時我為太太親自設計與縫製的婚紗, 即是用我花一段時間搜集到的一件 20 年代,一件 80 年代、加上一件現代,跨時代的婚紗組合在一起! 不論是 20 年代的婚紗或是 80 年代的婚紗,即便 是一百年前穿著那個人結婚,一定也擁有了許多親 朋好有的祝福,透過這樣子將充滿祝福意念的婚紗 組合在一起,成為了一件獨一無二的婚紗給我太太, 我認為正是更富有意義的。Luxxury Godbage 這個 品牌第一個重點就是把時間串連。 第 二 個 核 心 概 念 是: 時 間 是 最 奢 華 的 東 西! Luxxury Godbage 是 JUST IN XX 分支出來的永 續 時 尚 副 牌, 透 過 再 設 計 (Redesign)、 再 製 造 (Remake)、再利用 (Reuse) 的方法將物盡其用。 其實 Remake 改製服飾拆解重組比重零到有製作 還要花時間,拆線是車線所費四倍的時間,我們 在設計創作的過程中,努力保留其時間歷練創造 出的獨特風味,並透過耗時的手工拆解與工藝製 作過程,為舊物、廢棄物重新注入價值。Luxxury Godbage 是用『時間』創造奢華的永續時尚品牌, 奢華的垃圾,帶給大家華麗的重擊!
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一直忙碌於服裝秀的你,是在怎麼樣的契機 下,突然想到要做這個系列?
也達成自我安慰?! 那時他還在世,為此大概
Luxxury Godbage 誕生以前,其實它的精神早已
從紐約發表回來,就更確定要做重製改造品牌這
偷偷植入在我們每一季 JUST IN XX 的伸展台上,
件事,因為我可以讓每一件服裝都變得更有意
都有像這樣子二手衣再製重組的設計。我印象很
義! 加上現在古著盛行、環保意識抬頭,是一
深刻是 19 年春夏紐約時裝週發表時,有媒體問
個很好的 timing 點。早期講買二手衣,最常聽人
我,是不是因應永續趨勢所以製作 Remake 的服
家質疑可能是死人穿過的衣服。現在小孩子沒有
飾,我回朔思考其實從開始大學畢業後人生第一
這些觀念,比較能夠接受,我們在去年開始推出
次接受體訪問,當時講的內容,就是在講如何改
Luxxury Godbage 的品牌系列,契機如上所述是一
造服裝,用咖啡渣染牛仔褲,用選舉旗幟做衣服
連串事件的堆疊,在去年開花結果,並不是某個
等等,喜歡『解構』是起因,喜歡在有限的條件
靈感的突然觸發。
有多用幾秒鐘的時間關心我設計的衣服… 那次
裡突破框架是我喜歡給自己的挑戰,服裝這幾年 的變化很多,已經不像以前這麼純粹,因此也想
我喜歡各種材料的不期而遇,也喜歡各種不同時
回到自己當時喜愛服裝設計的初衷,也能透過
代、款式服裝『意外』的組合!有一部分設計師
Luxxury Godbage 永續時尚專注的定位,為其他企
的 remake 改造,很像在做拼布,這塊布剪掉,拼
業品牌提供可持續性發展的創意設計 概念與顧
接到另一塊布上成為一個新的作品,但這種不是
問服務。
我喜歡的玩法,Luxxury Godbage 在玩的改造方式 其實非常的困難,我的作法會將服裝款式上的符
我爸其實完全沒有看過我的服裝秀,從畢業展直
號留下來,用符號與符號的拼接、碰撞,產生出
到去年過世,都沒有機會看到,19 年的時候我
新的設計。有點像分子料理的創作,卻是從不知
就想說,既然這樣就把他一件繡有他名字『周吉
道是誰家的冰箱,裡面用吃剩的漢堡、兩顆小籠
安』的訂作西裝,直接改成秀服走上紐約時裝
包、一把蔥,蛋花湯,等等有限的食材去做組合,
週的伸展台,這對我來說是一件很酷的事情,
重新變成十道特色美味料理的概念。
這和我們本期議題腐後新生 -Upcycling 不謀 而合,可以替我們讀者著墨更深一些嗎?
覺得安心。雖然大家常用反叛來定義我的個性, 但這個角度來看,我好像蠻乖的?!
Cycle 其實有很多種方式,Luxxury Godbage 是設 計創作的呈現。在去年我們甚至透過義大利循 環 時 尚 電 商 Lablaco 的 邀 請, 作 為 台 灣 永 續 時 尚領導品牌參與巴黎循環時尚高峰會,透過與
是不是你看到腐會有一點警惕?或者是說, 你害怕變成那樣子,所以更警惕自己,還會 看到別人這樣子而不願意變成那樣?
Lablaco 的合作,我們做到能和科技平台串連結
我推測我的自我警惕系統是源自於是家庭因素,
合,透過 QR code 以及區塊鏈的應用,物主會知
我從小很常自己一個人被丟在家裡,自己一個人
道上一個主人是誰,他的社群是什麼,什麼時候
玩,自我思考以及與自己對話。我喜歡學習到新
穿過這個,再上一個主人又是誰,全部一覽無遺,
知的充實感,看書獲得的愉悅感。就像有的人喜
就像是穿著履歷一般。可以清楚知道,物品以前
歡喝酒,看書就是我很喜歡做的事情,現在有時
是屬於誰的,讓每件衣服都有故事,透過交易讓
會用手機取代,經常我是看著考古紀錄片、量子
故事延續傳遞下去,這非常的有趣。這是接下來
力學、外星人、懸疑推理的影片入睡。所以我的
Luxxury Godbage 的方向,我們會將產品跟故事組
腐搞不好是在看書、看手機這件事情上,沈溺在
合在一起,不是溝通產品設計而已。
構思創意上面,對別人來講,可能那也算是一種 緊繃的腐…應該更多人不願變成我這樣…。我想
你自己有過再生的經過嗎?或者是你有過, 所謂就是很低潮、很腐的狀態? 其實採訪前,我認真思考過這一題,但我想真的 沒有過這樣的狀態! 或許因為我是牡羊座,熱血工作狂?! 我沒有那 種很醉生夢死的階段。當我警覺自己有點空虛的 時候,我就會趕快去看書,補充一些知識我才會
我應該算是沒腐過,很多人跟我約會議都會預設 立場要跟我約下午,覺得設計師一定都是睡到中 午後才醒,但其實自己成立公司,自創品牌以來, 我幾乎是每天七點自然醒起來看新聞,更不只是 吸收時尚相關的內容,因此與企業品牌跨界合作 時更得心應手。
文字對你來說很重要,但你又是很視覺系的 人,創作視覺的東西,卻那麼在意文字,這 蠻特別的?
本不是那樣。不過,對我來說,這是文字才能製 造出的最有趣味的地方。透過文字,生成自己的 畫面,那個東西就是很酷的存在。
我印象很深,我曾經讀川端康城的「雪國」,他 透過鏡子窗戶反射去看旁邊的遊客,在文字描述
全球受到疫情影響,對你的影響?怎麼看待 讓全球生活改變的事件?
中,我完全可以身歷其境感覺到車子的震動,彷
疫情當然有受到影響,比如時裝秀停辦、現在不
彿親眼看見他所描寫的充滿霧氣的車窗。我非常
能出國、活動取消,或者是原本合作的計畫暫停
喜歡閱讀小說,因為文字不會侷限想像,每個讀
等等。但還好一開始我的品牌策略,就不偏重於
者都會擁有自己創造的畫面。又好像,福爾摩斯
為零售通路鋪點大量生產,零售並非我們規劃的
小說中,文字描述第一次遇到華生的時候,從描
重點!在故宮、史博館 _ 常玉、NIKE、Levi`s、
述穿著的外套、手指上墨水的痕跡,文字在腦海
神明立體繡工藝等跨界之後,我還想持續挑戰突
構築的畫面,明明僅有一次,卻到今天還記得。
破台灣設計師所能做到的跨界合作的極限。
在書裡,有時候會講一些概念,讀者必須透過自
疫情之後,讓我一直在思考時裝裡面我到底喜歡
己的知識跟常識理解,但是那搞不好不是作者要
什麼?時裝的未來會是什麼樣貌?思考後,讓我
講的,但是你就會覺得好像可以幹嘛,好像可以
更加確立我要做的就是 Luxxury Godbage。
裡面描述在列車上發生的情境,主角用第一視角
變成什麼。例如說,川久保玲有一次講一個她的 系列主題叫『超級簡單 Super Simple』,大家以
我遇到各種這樣的事,我通常覺得是上帝祂要我
為會是極簡,但是沒有,他就是把所有的線條都
去思考,想清楚接下來想做什麼事情,好好擬定
合併,可是在我小時候,我聽到這個概念,我誤
策略跟計畫,所以覺得也沒有不好,另外就是這
解扭曲了原本的意義,依照自己的想像去做出我
個疫情讓我更清楚了解到,需要跟在地產業更加
以為相同概念的東西出來,心想應該川久保玲說
緊密的結合。
的是那樣,可是過十多年後才發現原來他講的根
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是否跟 Abook 的讀者或是同業的設計師說 說,是怎麼樣把作品吸睛度拉到這麼滿。是 否有獨到的創作撇步或是小技巧?
服裝的人,最大的不一樣說起。我們在看東西的
其實我是用藝術來包裝商業,藝術的做法很簡
希望做出來的東西很安全、不會出錯,所以就會
單,就是「熟悉的意外」,簡單講就是符號學。
先從 Pinterest、Instagram,找已經做過的東西。
比如說像是 Nike ,你不會想像 Nike 會出一個花
這其實是村上隆所講的超扁平世代,一個扁平化
盆,不會想到 Nike 會出一個沙發。就像 Supreme
沒有深耕或底蘊的時候,很多東西,看過就會感
出一塊磚頭,製造意外。其實都是來自於 Andy
覺沒有那麼讓人印象深刻、或記得住的東西。所
Warhol 講的,藝術就是做一些不需要的東西,就
以這時代的年輕人,我覺得,第一個要先了解歷
是藝術,只是我們需要透過符號,重新再造。比
史。我真實遇到的狀況是,比如說,我問:
時候是希望不要做出一樣的東西;可是現在因為 有社群,大家希望被認同、被按讚分享,然後,
如說,我們做那個「到此一遊」系列,我們把中 國風跟龐克組合在一起,當時沒有人想道旗袍跟
你知道 Roberto Cavalli 嗎?
龐克能組合在一起,所以我就透過這樣子創造。
不知道
每一次我都希望作品能創造出一種「熟悉的意 外」。這幾年,很多媒體在訪問我,我也跟他們
我秀給他一件 Roberto Cavalli
講說,因為我覺得這時代是符號世代,符號學就
他說我知道這件衣服,我看過
是這樣操作,差別只有在如何透過社群,讓創意 能夠更廣泛地去被討論。
再回頭問你知道 Betsey Johnson 嗎? 不知道
其實我們的讀者有很多服裝設計相關的年輕 人,你認為從事這行業要具備的心態,跟條 件是什麼?做怎樣事情才會對未來服裝設計 上會有真正的幫助? 好,我先從現在的年輕人做服裝和我們那時候做
那你能想像有一個人,他想當音樂家,但是他不 知道貝多芬跟莫札特?現在的小孩子有一點就是 這種狀況,不閱讀,不知道服裝的來龍去脈,不 知道設計師歷程背景,其實每個設計師代表一個
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小宇宙,透過研究瞭解他,可以知道他的思考,
最近有一天我去看一個展覽,前後不到五分鐘就
請不要只透過 google 後的第一頁結果來了解定義
出來,沒有什麼內容。然後我就一直思考如何辦
事情! 閱讀是非常重要的,閱讀才會有自己的
一個展,能夠讓觀眾也成為其中的創作者,甚至
畫面剖析跟見解。
當場變成展覽的一部分。
我經常給學生們的建議是想踏入哪個行業,在念
策展是一個,另外則是頻道,想要做時尚版的
書的階段就要多去實習。不管是成衣公司、設計
TLC 那樣子的生活影片,千萬不要是文青風格的
工作室,需要瞭解大家到底怎麼做的,先把不切
紀錄片,想要更生活、更有趣、更真實一點。反
實際的幻想打破。第二,實際動手做!我在念書
正都已經是超扁平世代了,不如讓台灣人對於時
的時候,最酷的成就感是人家說我穿自己做衣服
尚的接受度更為普及化,消滅不必要的刻板印
好酷,那時候就做了一百多件衣服給自己穿,可
象!更加了解創意重要與價值。
是現在的學生很少會做衣服給自己穿。 每每周裕穎的作品出現,都再度打破大家對他的
最後一個就是這幾年 JUST IN XX 一直都很 受到媒體矚目,那下一步的重點規劃是在哪 裡?
印象,源源不絕的創意,彷彿永續般生生不絕。
策展。會幫別的單位或自己策展,請拭目以待。
許稍微呼應了他說的「熟悉的意外」的創作哲學。
最妙的是,別人的作品可能是依據視覺感官印象 所造成的創作,他的東西卻是先從文字而來,或 期待周裕穎的下一步,又會怎樣讓世界再次驚
因為我一直覺得,現在台灣展覽風氣很盛行,很
艷、驚呼連連!
多人會去看展,包括我自己也很常去看,看得時 候我都會想說要是我來做的話,我要讓觀眾看到 什麼東西?
Your recent collection “Luxxury Godbage” is amazing. Tell our readers about the concept and philosophy behind this collection?
This collection has several key concepts. First of all, my goal is to link different eras together and create a classic fusion style with semiotic inspired design. For example, when my wife and I got married, I decided to sew my wife’s dress on
Let's first look at the term“Luxxury Godbage”;
my own. I spent a lot of time collecting different
it sounds like luxury garbage, but garbage is
wedding gowns from the 20s, 80s, and gowns
specifically replaced with GOD. Generally
from more recent times. I took them all apart and
speaking, everything in the world is given to us
then pieced it back together into one. It’s so
by God, including time and materials. So for me,
meaningful when pieced together because you have
the discarded things are also gifts from God, such
pieces of fabric from different points in time. No
as the leftover pieces of fabric. The shapes of
matter when the dress was made, all these pieces
the leftover pieces are not what we expected at
are filled with blessings and love from relatives
the beginning, but it can create some unique and
and friends. I think it’s so meaningful, and makes
unexpected work.
my wifes' dress truly unique.
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Continuing this concept, the Luxxury Godbage
been using recycled materials for a while. I
collection’s first focus is to connect “time with
remember I was asked by the media in 2019 if I
time”.
was just following a trend. Thinking back, when
The second core concept is: time is the most
I was in college I was already experimenting
luxurious thing! Luxxury Godbage is a sub-
with restructuring clothes out of nonconventional
brand and extention of JUST IN XX. It focuses
materials.
on sustainable fashion. It uses the methods of redesign, remanufacture, and recycling (reuse)
I recall the first interview I had after graduating
to maximize the use of resources. The process
college and what I was talking about at that
of taking out stitches and remaking something
time was how to transform clothing, how to
actually takes four times more effort than usual. To
dye jeans with coffee grounds, and how to make
disassemble the clothes and restructure it requires
clothes out of election flags. I like the idea of
more time than producing a piece from scratch. We
"deconstruction"; breaking through the framework
strive to create new design using old materials and
under limited conditions. I like to challenge
re-inject value into these old elements. Luxxury
myself. The fashion industry is no longer the same
Godbage is a luxury brand that uses concepts of
as before, so I want to find back my passion. That
"time" to create luxury and sustainable fashion.
passion which motivated me to study fashion design. Through Luxxury Godbage’s focus on
The third core concept is: there’s no such thing
sustainability, I wish I am also able to provide
as waste! The only question is, do you know how
sustainable ideas, concepts or consulting services
to design?! We take second hand clothing, scrap
for corporates or brands.
materials, and waste materials, and turn them into brand new items. For example, we took a grocery
My father didn’t get the chance to go to any of
bag and made it into a clock. After we posted
my fashion shows. Sadly he passed away last year.
the clock on social media, we received an order
In 2019, I took one of his suits that had his name
from a Dutch select shop. I hope that through the
embroidered on it, and turned it into one of the
creation of Luxxury Godbage, we will inspire more
looks showcased on the runway during New York
people to think about sustainability! I want to turn
Fashion Week. It was very sentimental for me; it
sustainability into a cool “thing”!
was as if my dad was watching. After I came back from New York, I was even more determined to
You’ve been busy with a lot of fashion shows in recent years. What happened that inspired you to do this collection?
create the Luxxury Godbage brand because I knew I
Actually you can find bits and pieces of this
environmental awareness, this is a good timing
concept in JUST IN XX’s fashion shows. I’ve
to launch the collection. In the past, many people
could make clothing that was more meaningful! Because of the vintage trend and the rise of
would probably question whether used clothing
QR codes and blockchain applications, we were
were worn by dead people. Nowadays, the younger
able to connect the old user with the new user.
generation don’t see it that way and are more
The new owner of the piece of clothing can know
open to the vintage charm. So, the collection was
who the last owner was, his background, and his
not a sudden inspiration, but more like a chain of
interests. You can now clearly know who the
events that nourished the birth of it.
item belonged to before, which gives that piece of clothing a story. It is so interesting and it’s
The concept coincides with our theme “Upcycling”. What does the word mean to you?
a brand new era for fashion. Luxxury Godbage
There are many ways to represent the “cycling”
meaningful.
aims to not just communicate design, but to communicate a story. Stories makes it all more
of materials; Luxxury Godbage is just using design and fashion to do so . Last year, as the leading brand of sustainable fashion in Taiwan, we were invited by Italian fashion retailer Lablaco to participate in the Paris Circular Fashion Summit. Through the cooperation with Lablaco, we were able to utilize technology platforms, and through
Have you ever experienced a low point in your life? A miserable or dark time? I seriously thought long and hard about this question, but to be honest, the answer in No!
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Perhaps because I am an Aries. I see myself as a
I like absorbing new ideas and new things. Many
passionate workaholic. I don't have time for any
people don’t know that I actually wake up at 7am
absurdity or time to question life. Ofcourse I have
every day. When I wake up, I watch the news not
days where I feel empty or lost, but I’m very
to absorb fashion-related content, but to become
aware of myself, so when that happens I usually
knowledged in the business sector, so I can be
choose to read a book, because books make me feel
prepared for future cooperations across different
safe. It’s where I can learn so much. Many people
industries.
see me as rebellious, but from this perspective, my life seems pretty mundane don’t you think?
You seem to always have your life together; would you say you’re afraid to let yourself slip into a low point or dark time?
Even though you are a visually-oriented person. When you create visual things, you also care alot about the text. Why is that? I was very impressed by Kawabata Yasushi's book "Snow Country". The story is about a situation that
I think I’m just very disciplined. When I was
has occurred on the train. The protagonist uses first
a child, I was often left at home alone, playing
person perspective to describe the tourists that he
alone, thinking and talking with myself. I like to
sees through the reflection in the window. In the
learn, and I love the fulfillment of acquiring new
text, I could completely feel the vibration of the
knowledge and the joy of reading. Some people
car, as if I was at the scene, looking through the
like to drink alcohol, but I like to read a book. I
foggy window of which he described. I like to read
often fall asleep while watching movies; I love
novels very much, because the text does not limit
watching documentaries, and shows that talk about
the imagination.
quantum mechanics, aliens, and mysteries.
in concepts and ideas that the reader might not
COVID-19 has dramatically changed the world. How has it affected you?
understand. However, every reader can have different
Of course, a lot of fashion shows have been
interpretations that may be similar or completely
cancelled due to the pandemic, and many plans
different than what the author intended. No matter
have been put on hold. Fortunately, my brand
what your thoughts are, however, there’s no right
strategy does not focus on mass production for
or wrong. For example, designer Rei Kawakubo
retail channels anyway. Retail is not the focus in
once talked about a theme in her collection called
our business! After doing cross-over collaborations
"Super Simple"; everyone thought it would be a
with the National Palace Museum, Shang Yu,
minimalist collection, but no, she just merged all
NIKE, Levi`s, etc. I want to push the limits, and
the lines. When I was young and heard about this
take cross-over collaborations to another level.
In written books, sometimes the author throws
concept, I misunderstood what she meant. I made some pieces as a tribute to that collection, but
The pandemic has allowed me time to think about
according to my own imagination. When I grew up
what it is that I really like about fashion? What
I later found out that what I thought I understood,
will the future of fashion look like? After thinking
was completely different from what Rei Kawakubo
about it, I’m even more positive that Luxxury
was trying to say. However, for me, this is the most
Godbage is something that I really want to do.
interesting part about words and the power of text. It’s open to interpretation and it unleashes your imagination.
Are there any tips that you can give designers about how to make their work stand out? Any creative tips?
A lot of our readers are young people in the fashion industry. Any recommendations or tips that can help them with their career?
I use art to package a very commercial entity. The method is very simple, art is creating something
Well, let me start with the biggest difference
familiar but looks accidental. It’s really about
between the young people now and the aspiring
semiotics theory which is using signs or objects
designers back then when I was still a student.
to create meaning. For example, you wouldn’t
Back then we tried to do things that have never
imagine that Nike would make a flower pot, and
been done before. However, now with the internet
you would not expect Nike to make a sofa. All of
and social media, everyone wants to be recognized
it began with Andy Warhol who believed that art
and noticed. So many people go to Pinterest, or
is to do something that is not needed.
Instagram, looking for things that are popular or familiar. The things that they design seem to lack
With this in mind, when we made the "Punk the
originality and innvoation. This is actually called
Empire" collection, we combined Chinese fashion
the“Ultra-Flat Generation”which Murakami
elements with Punk. At that time, no one would
once talked about. When you make something that
think that the traditional Qipao and Punk could
lacks depth or originality it is very hard to be
be combined. I hope that my work can create a
remembered. So my suggestion for young designers
"familiar accident" each time and have meaning.
is that they need to research and understand history. For example, this is a true conversation I once had with a young person in the industry:
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I asked him: Do you know Roberto Cavalli?
understanding of designers, you can get a glimpse
He said: I do not know.
into their thoughts. Please don’t just read things given to you on the first page of a Google search! Reading is very important. Reading can help a
Then I show him a Roberto Cavalli dress.
person build opinion and thoughts about a subject.
He said: I know this dress. I have seen it before. The advice I often given to my students is, no
Then I ask him: Do you know Betsey Johnson? He said: I do not know.
matter what industry you choose, it is always smart to find a intern job while you are still studying. Whether it's a clothing company or a design studio, you need to understand what everyone is doing,
Can you imagine, it’s like someone who wants
understand the realities and stop fantasizing aboout
to be a musician, but he doesn’t know Beethoven
things . Second, you need to get very hands on and
and Mozart. One problem young people have now
practice! When I was stlll a student, the coolest
is that they don’t read. They don’t know the
accomplishment was when people complimented
history of clothing, and they don’t know the
my clothes, because I made them myself. Students
designer’s background. In fact, every designer
nowadays rarely make clothes that they wear
represents a small universe. Through research and
themselves.
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At last, we want to know why the media is so interested in JUST IN XX ? How do you garner media attention? What’s your next step? Curation. We will curate exhibits for our brand and also help others to curate theirs. Please stay tuned! Exhibitions are so popular nowadays, especially in Taiwan. Many people go to exhibitions, including
Every time we see Justin’s work, he introduces
myself. Whenever I go to an exhibit, I’m always
us to new concepts that changes our impressions
thinking about what I would do different, if it
of him. His endless stream of creativity is so
were my exhibit.
sustainable and unstoppable. The most interesting part is, he is inspired by words. Unlike others who
Recently, I went to see an exhibit and it took
are usually inspired by imagery, Justin’s creative
me about five minutes to go through the entire
philosophy opens our eyes to something never seen
space. There was not much content. After that, I
before. We look forward to what he has in store
kept thinking about how to organize an exhibition
for us next!
where the audience can interact or connect with the artist on a greater level. Another idea we are trying to develop is to create our own channel. We want to make a fashion inspired version of TLC. Not a documentary or reality show, but we want it to be an interesting and genuine depiction of the industry. We are in an ultra-flat generation anyways; I hope we can make fashion a part of every person’s life, and to debunk any stereotypes. I hope Taiwanese people can better understand the value of creativity. -end
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PHOTOGRAPHY Kuan MAKEUP Sandy Chen HAIR Kriz Chen STYLE Coco Zhou MODEL Diana @ACE Model
STAY WI
ITH ME
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在自我逐漸腐敗墮落之際,我想起以
在被失落與痛苦吞食之前,我想要停
請留在我身邊,那
以前的自己,那個快樂單純閃亮的自己,
停止這一切,重新振作成為自己的樣子。
那個還有希望的自己。
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Before I fall into a state of self destruction, I want to stop and remember the old me The happy, innocent, vibrant me Before I become swallowed by loss and pain, I want to stop and remember who I am Please stay with me, the hopeful me
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解說 畫面中一個是黑暗的自我,因為面對著痛苦而逐漸腐敗迷失,在彌留之際,他想起記憶中單純快樂的自己, 閃閃發光著,他用力地與記憶中的自己交流著,讓自己不要繼續沈迷下去,最後他讓純粹的自己留在身邊陪 著自己,重新面對新的現實與開始。
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The image portrays a dark self; corrupted and lost. In her memory she sees a pure and happy past, and she tries to grab on. In the end, she finds her genuine self, and allows that self to stay with her, to embrace a new reality and beginning.
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沒有理所應當的廢棄品 新銳藝術家 林明修 There is no such thing as "reasonable waste"
Interview ( 圖片由 田端豹伯 / 林明修 提供 )
Text by Ash
新銳藝術家林明修,本業維汽修師傅的他起初為了親手製作玩 具給兒子,進而開啟了藝術之路,利用即將被報廢的汽車零件 再生創作出貓頭鷹、長頸鹿、臘腸狗 ... 等意想不到的作品。
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作品名稱:臘腸狗 ( 圖片由 田端豹伯 提供 )
「沒有理所應當的廢棄品」林明修從來不為 創作預設立場或打草稿,單純的廢零件就是
未來有規劃其他創作主題或更大型的物件 嗎?
他的創作泉源,如此充滿父愛的溫度與巧
其實這類的創作都非常耗時,主要是要有足夠的
思,引導觀者常保尊重自然與環保永續之
空間來堆積、創作出作品,對於未來的規劃其實
心。突如其來 的靈感,最終的成品又會在每個
就像我對創作的態度一樣,不預設任何立場、不
觀者的眼中存在著不同的意義。
不預先做出設定,一切都是隨機應變。
在創作的過程中是否有遇到過瓶頸?您又是 如何突破的?
您對本期雜誌主題『腐』有什麼看法呢?
我比較少遇到創作上的瓶頸,可能是因為我的創作
東西,但像樹葉落入泥土中經過腐化之後他會轉
非常自由,原本可能要創造出來的是青蛙最後它變
換成養分,它會轉變成某種有用的形式,大自然
成一隻鱷魚,這也是我跟原生素材的一種互動。
中的實體物質在最後都是會被分解的,最重要的
『腐』在一般人的想法之中就是壞掉的、爛掉的
就是把所謂的理念與精神給留存下來。
作品名稱:臘腸狗 ( 圖片由 田端豹伯 提供 )
Having started his career as an automobile
importance of environmental protection and
mechanic, contemporary artist Lin Ming Xiu began
sustainability.
making hand-made toys for his son, which allowed him to discover his artistic abilities. He upcycles used car scraps to create one-of-a-kind pieces that take the form of an owl, giraffe, daschund…
What was your profession prior to being an artist? Under what circumstances did you make the transition? I was a professional automobile mechanic and
[There is no such thing as reasonable waste]
I never really thought about becoming an artist. At first I just thought it would be fun to use the
Lin never creates with a specific viewpoint or
unwanted scraps and materials in the autoshop
format in mind, his inspiration comes from the
to make toys with my son, then in 2008 an artist
waste materials infront of him.
friend saw my work and invited me to join his
Though, the
objective is always to remind people of the
exhibition. That’s when it all started.
Where does your materials and inspiration come from? The basis of my creations are all discoveries I’ve
Do you plan on developing a specific theme in the future or creating larger pieces of work?
made within unwanted car scraps and materials.
Actually, these type of creations are very time-
Inspiration comes easily to me, but I never set out
consuming and large pieces of work take up a lot
looking to create a specific product. For example,
of space. I don’t think about future plans too
if today I find a scrap component that looks like
much, it’s just like how I work, I don’t have
a part of a duck, I will keep it and categorize
certain stand points, I just go with the flow.
each material. When I have enough, I will begin creating. To me what’s most interesting is the
What do you think about the theme [Decay]?
unpredictable changes that happen during the
Decay usually connotates something that is broken
creative process. Something that looks like it
or rotten, but actually what’s most important
belongs on a duck may turn out to be a dinosaur;
is the spirit it represents, like how leaves on the
these random changes happen naturally and the
ground decay and change into something else that
final product may hold different meanings for
is still useful in its new form. In nature, organic
different people.
materials are all decomposable and useful.
Have you ever had a creative block? How did you manage to overcome that?
-end
I rarely get stuck in a creative block. Perhaps it’s because I create very freely, something that was meant to be a frog may turn out to be an alligator. This is how I interact with the materials.
作品名稱:樂團 2008 年 ( 由林明修 提供 )
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作品名稱:貓頭鷹 2016 年 ( 圖片由 田端豹伯 提供 )
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Transparent Nights
MUA / Eddi Shi Hairstyle / Odye Weng
透 明 的 夜 晚
Creative Stylist / Monfi Lin Model / Gemma Huang / Bruna Lee / Dasha / Nancy Lin / Amber
Our Fashion, Our Style
Photographer / Tonnie
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閉上雙眼,我們一同漂流在透明的海面, 海水淹沒了身體,喚起清醒的記憶。 如果人們都信奉陸上單一而完美的價值, 那怎能感受彼此交織的意識洪流, 有時我選擇越沉越深,在這透明的世界裡, 折射出色彩斑斕的你妳祢與我 , 裹在裡面顯得比著陸的世界冰涼且甜美。
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Close your eyes, we’re floating in transparent waters The sea engulfs us, and conjures up memories If we all believe in the same perfectionist values in life How can any other dialogue exist? The waters are cold Yet I choose to sink deeper and deeper in to these transparent waters Because it feels warmer than the world up above
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即將迎接「新」生的 歐陽靖 Welcoming a New Life
Gin Oy Text by Mincer
Photo by Kuan
Column
ABOOK 幾年前工作的關係,就曾經拍過歐陽靖,
讓我憂鬱症痊癒之後,就跟憂鬱症絕緣了,再也
那時候的慢跑少女,歷經幾年之後,她跟日本的
沒有復發了。遇到了生活上的挫折,也不再負面
攝影師 RK- 小菅亮輔結婚,到現在已經是準媽媽
消極以對。
的身份。很榮幸透過這次雜誌的主題『腐後再生』 來聊聊她的再生、他的攝影師老公、與肚中小孩
其實馬拉松,最大的困難不是是體能,是在心裡。
的兩三事。
馬拉松、全馬、超馬各種五、六個小時以上不停 的跑,其實是心靈、意志力的挑戰會比較強烈。
這 次 ABOOK 雜 誌 的 單 元 講 的 是「 腐 後 再 生」,從你最早憂鬱証時期的,轉生成現在 這樣正面 KOL 的形象,想問問你這一路上的 心路歷程 ?
如果真的是想從跑步學習抗壓,或者是改變生命 態度的話,我會建議大家要一直跑下去。如果想 磨練意志,或者是追求心靈成長的話,真的就要 跑到全馬以上,真的很有用的。
我覺得這就是人生經歷的變化,早期重度憂鬱的 經歷讓我一直在尋找一個可以讓自己舒壓,而且
跑的時候,不會覺得無聊嗎?
在是能讓憂鬱症不再復發的方法。2011 年,因
跑的時候一定會有無聊的時候,就像高僧閉關一
緣際會之下受到日本前輩設計師的影響,接觸到
樣,住在山洞裡,幾天不講話,同樣地無聊。而
跑步,就開始嘗試跑馬拉松。
且跑步的時候,我不聽音樂,不只無聊,身體還 很痛苦。奇妙的是,跑完之後,心裡感受到的成
後來,跑著跑著,就發現跑步不是運動,是一種
就感,是自己帶給自己的,不是在跟別人比較,
心靈成長、像是修行,因為跑馬拉松是很艱苦的
那種我成功克服了身體與心靈同時承受巨大的痛
過程、時間非常長、對自己非常殘忍,在幾個小
苦的成就感很棒。
時自虐的狀態中,你要去平定自己的內心、放鬆 心情,告訴自己撐過去。這個過程,讓我學會正
我現在已經跑過很多場、沿路風景很好、很漂亮,
向面對生活中的瓶頸與自己心理上的弱點。所以
跑起來當然是有加分。就算沒有漂亮風景的話,
跑步不僅只是運動健身、紓壓而已,也因為跑步,
純粹自己跟自己對話的時間,也很 ok。
出處 IG:@rkrkrk
出處 IG:@rkrkrk
從這樣子短短幾分鐘交流,真的完全感受到 你的 Positive,是因為要當媽媽的關係嗎? 還是?
下,就要先一起生活、相處磨合看看。後來因為
還是跑步吧!不只跑馬拉松,我還去跑步越野
排除。
文化不同,磨合起來非常辛苦,所幸雙方都有共 同的目標要結婚,所以互相就開始想辦法把障礙
賽、尤其是跑完越野賽的時候,就會覺得能活著 真好,活著就很開心!跑步會讓自己在意東西越
也因為那段在日本生活的經驗,讓我大開眼界,
來越少,心裡就越來越寬。
我原本以為我很懂日本,真正在那生活之後,才 發現日本跟我過去玩的那個日本不一樣。再加上
加上,因為懷孕,賀爾蒙的關係,肚子裡的小孩
我其實比較喜歡去探索一些 underground、裏文化
讓我變得很正向,每天都過的很開心,明明老公
的東西、喜歡挖掘不為人知東西,比方說歌舞伎
不在身邊,一樣過得很開心。
町的一些暗處角落。
你最近出了一本「裏東京生存記」,怎樣的 契機促使你寫下這本書的。
現在因為我老公是個日本人,他以前在當 DJ,
七年前,跑東京馬拉松,認識了我先生。五年前 開始跟他交往,就變成有一半的時間都住在日 本,那時候是因為以結婚為前提交往的狀態之
有很多的人生經歷都跟這個城市相關、很有趣 的,所以就決定要寫一本「裏東京生存記」,讓 大家知道原來東京這個城市跟我們一般去吃喝玩 樂的東京是不一樣的。
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剛剛提到你喜歡關注一些比較底層、暗面的 東西,這些跟「 腐」是否點關係?
所以「腐」這個字,我覺得東京是還滿符合的。
腐,其實我覺得東京還蠻符合這個主題,這城市
對東京的觀察,也寫了非常多關於東京不為人知
真的是已經失落了二、三十年,滿慘
的暗歷史,連日本人都不太想對外人提的一些事
的。東京處於一個經濟文化非常失落、人心低迷
件。書中有特別寫到,因為我自己生命歷程的關
的一個狀態。直到他們確定申奧,才稍稍展現了
係,我很能體會東京這個城市的這種衰敗,我自
活力與生氣,所以據我知道,二十年來東京的活
己也是經歷很多的挫折,但是還是不斷告訴自
力最高峰就在 2019 年,整個城市準備要迎接奧
己,要堅持走下去。我的靈魂跟東京
運。我住在澀谷,整個是很誇張的,瘋狂的在建
用某種形式牽絆一起,有很多的連結,所以不只
設,現在去跟你一年前去,完全不一樣。然後他
是我以一個外地人的立場去剖析這個都市,而是
們在 2019 年氣氛達到了頂峰。
說用一種生命聯繫再一起的角度來看這個城市。
在拿到奧運主辦權之前,整個日本、尤其東京最
不會想去關心未來,也不會想去關心這個世界發
最近看你的臉書,常常跟大家分享你先生 RK 的作品。ABOOK 其實是被 RK 先生的照 片吸引,所以想藉由這次專訪,透過妳來跟 我們的讀者介紹他
生了什麼,然後就每天打帕青哥。發生許多很多
對我而言,他算天才攝影師,特別是因為他入行
社會問題, 隨機殺人、過勞死、每天擠著電車,
當攝影師沒多久,就能拍出令人驚豔的照片。
明顯,真的是慘到不行,經濟蕭條,民眾意識上 開始自我封閉、開始鎖國,老百姓就是混日子,
尤其是我在「裏東京生存記」這本書有寫下自己
上班上十二個小時下班,當一個螺絲釘,一直到 生命結束的那天。所以感覺這個城市就是是很瘀 腐,很官僚。311 大地震發生那年,整個日本就 是慘到了谷底。 當初影響我開始跑步的 Undercover 設計師 高橋 盾,在 311 大地震之後,結合很多設計師與文化 人,發動跑馬拉松來修行,他們就是在跌到底之 後會產生一種,大家要團結、要向上的意識。然 後也是他告訴我說,跑步對心靈的修行多重要, 我就是被他影響才開始跑,所以我們都是在腐敗 泥土裡面長出來的新芽,新芽在東京申奧成功就 開始茁壯成一棵樹,直到新冠疫情傳出,又把這 棵新長的樹一把火給活生生燒掉。 現在日本人已經連奧運都不太敢提了了,明年能 不能正常辦都不敢抱太高的期望,國際情勢不 穩,萬一南北韓又出甚麼問題,真的辦不了,事 態就會急轉直下,東京的慘可能會變得更糟。
大塊文化出版社提供 /IG:@rkrkrk
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RK 先生本人十分斜槓,他以前從小打棒球,高中的
他相當努力,又對拍照有天份,很快的粉絲量開
時候還是甲子園全國第四名的投手。原本高中畢業
始飆多,加上他的交友圈都是服裝設計相關的,
應該是要進職棒當職業選手,他不要;因為喜歡時
所以很多日本的潮牌品牌,甚至村上隆都找過他
尚的關係,他選擇在東京念服裝設計、結果念完服
拍照。
裝設計之後,反而跑去當 DJ!那時候他也認識了東 京跑團的一位前輩成員,因為沒有人負責拍大家在
RK 先生有沒有來台灣發展的計畫?
跑步的照片、就叫 RK 負責拍照,RK 就拿起 iPhone
有,台灣有接過一些商業案子,有去台中拍過,只是
接下幫大家拍照的任務,拍著拍著,拍得不錯也拍
因為日本攝影師比較貴,就要視客戶預算而定。
出心得了,更學會用手機修圖。反正,就一直用手機
而且,他這次在東京的展出,有不少照片是台灣
拍,拍得很好,蘋果還長期贊助他,每次出新手機
的風景與建築。(IG 作品: @rkrkrk )
都會拿給他用。 短期內,因為疫情的關係,台日來往都需要隔離, 直到我跟他交往之後,我發現他雖然拍得很好,
暫時不打算過來。目前就是透過網路,用作品持
可是單單只用手機拍照,是沒有辦法接商業工作
續累積聲量,也把它打造成是一個網紅,除了照
來做的。我那時候覺得,他拍照拍得那麼好,用
片本身之外,用他的故事來吸引更多人認識他。
手機就可以拍出令人歎為觀止的照片,所以我 SONY 的單眼相機、然後他就開始用。他是完全
可以跟 ABOOK 喜歡攝影的讀者多介紹一點 RK 的特色嗎?
不懂鏡頭、快門光圈,什麼都不懂,完全是零的
他的特色之一是他被抄襲得很嚴重,讓他現在很
狀態,每天苦練翻書、上網查、自己自學。結合
想換工作。( 苦笑 )
就存了一點錢,在他生日,送他一台很簡單的
他很會 Photoshop 修圖的優勢,就很快地上手了。 直到兩年前,把原來在成人產業設計謎片封面的
他以前還在用手機拍照的時候,是那建築極簡的
工作辭掉後,決定全職當攝影師。
風格,後來他在秋葉原散步的時候就看到了一間 小小的電器行,裡面陳列密集電器,好像拍起來 很有趣,拍了之後,造就了他之後的風格。結果 這種風格,被抄翻了,好像全世界的攝影師都在 抄!他就覺得滿不爽、因為他認為你既然自許自 己是攝影師,你為什麼要去抄?網路上傳來傳 去,沒人知道原創是誰,讓他覺得有一點難過。 另外它的強項就是他應該是全日本、全世界最熟東 京拍照秘景的人,所以如果說客戶想要在東京拍出 很有震撼力的照片,他會毫不費力地知道要在哪個 地點拍,全都在他的腦海資料庫裡。包括很多的可 以爬樓拍攝俯瞰城市的地點,他花了很多力氣去找、 去勘景。歌舞伎町內,他也是摸遍不同角落,大概 是熟到熟到閉著眼睛也能走在歌舞伎町裡不會迷 路。這是他獨步江湖的絕技之一!
出處 IG:@rkrkrk
他的東西就是對比蠻強烈的,而且他其實很不想 要去拍跟別人一樣的東西,所以他就會到了一 個點,然後想辦法去找角度、找構圖、或是找 idea。他不要跟別人一樣,可是一旦他拍的很好, 很多別人就會來拍的跟他一樣!他本來一開始還 走不出被抄襲的困擾,我只能安慰他,「這沒辦 法解決,只能逼你自己繼續前進囉!」
你自己的攝影風格呢?你自己又嫁給攝影 師,你怎麼看待現在攝影這門藝術。 我國中的時候,最想做的職業就是攝影師,對拍 照很有興趣、然後還去學。我老公一開始搞不懂 什麼光圈,快門的時候,還是我跟他講的。我除 了當他經紀人,在現場我也會做他的助理,我很 自豪的是,以前是底片箱,我還會換萊佧的底 片!可是我一直覺得說有興趣。但是我沒有一個 很明確的目標,我也不認為說我有長才。
出處 IG:@rkrkrk
覺得說,他有這個天份走這條路。 所以後來認識我先生,看到他的作品驚為天人, 他從來沒學過攝影、也沒半點興趣,但是他看到 一個東西,他就是馬上就能知道這個拍起來會變 成怎麼樣,與生俱來的「攝影眼」! 而且他用想的,就想得到用個長焦鏡頭的話,畫 面會變成怎麼樣,那個我就覺得很難,很難理解。 他的照片很大的風格都喜歡用長鏡頭去壓前後 景。而且他的照片都沒有景深,很好玩。大家不 是都很喜歡拍照有景深的照片嗎?景深會做出一 種氣氛,他所有照片都沒有,就想說,他怎麼能 夠玩出這樣的東西。 我覺得其實自己在他身上找到了彌補一些我覺得 我沒辦法做到的事情,我覺得他是天才,大概接 觸攝影才兩年,他已經是有具備了大師的拍照氣 場,所以我很期待看到他的作品,也期待他未來 會發展到什麼程度,也是因為這樣我才會鼓勵他 成為職業攝影師,我其實也有投資自己情感,因 為我覺得我以前沒做到只有我覺得我做不到。我
老公介紹完了,現在來說說關於孩子的事。 你有預想你會怎樣教育你的孩子?對孩子的 期許? 大概跟我媽一模一樣放養,他想做什麼事情就支 持他,不會侷限任何事情,因為我媽就當初就是 這樣。我希望他是一個懂得創新的小孩、很有創 意的,就像他爸爸一樣。還有希望這個小孩不要 太乖,不要他是那種會按照人家說什麼,他就做 什麼的人,要有自己的想法,有自己想做的事情。
最近你臉書有篇貼文讓我印象很深、也很感 動。孕期中間你們夫妻相隔兩地,RK 先生 遠距替你拍的孕婦照,可以描述一下那個拍 攝經過嗎? 那天他就透過 facetime 視訊指揮,要我電腦要擺 哪,透過畫面叫我前進一點、退後一點,要我擺 姿勢,然後他就直接螢幕截,很好玩!
90
那時候,你被先生拍照,應該很感動吧? 一點都不會感動,雖然是他提議要拍的,但是拍 照當下他整個人就變得相當嚴肅嚴肅,雖然是他 提議拍的,但是他真的在按快門的那一刻,他就 是只在乎這個畫面的構圖結構、角度,他只在意 這些事情,你都不用擔心說他去拍性感模特兒或
I think it’s just different life experiences. I used to be severely depressed and was looking for a way to de-stress and to curb my depression from reoccuring. In 2011, a Japanese designer friend of mine introduced me to running, and I’ve been doing marathons since then.
者是裸體的女生,他會不會產生什麼邪念,他只 要在拍照的時候,就是聖人模式!他拍照的時 候,他什麼都不管,完全只專注會拍出什麼樣的 畫面。
The more I ran, the more I came to realize that running is not just a sport, but rather a spiritual awakening. Doing the marathon is a very strenuous process. The hours are long and it’s physically
We had the opportunity to work with Gin Oy a few
very demanding; thus you have to be able to calm
years ago when she was an avid marathon runner.
your emotions, and relax your mind. The marathon
Now she is married to Japanese photographer Rei
has taught me positive ways to deal with life and
Hanada and expecting their first baby. We caught
all its obstacles. My depression went away, and
up with Gin to talk to her about the next stage in
never came back. If you want to practice willpower
her life, her husband, and her new book.
or if you’re looking for spiritual growth, I would definitely recommend that you give the marathon a
You’re very outspoken about going through depression when you were younger. Now you’ve become a very positive fashion icon and KOL. Tell us how that change came about?
try.
Don’t you ever get bored when you’re running? Ofcourse there are times when you get bored. But it’s like a spiritual retreat. When I’m running I don’t listen to music. It’s not just boring but your body feels a lot of pain. However, after running, you feel a tremendous sense of accomplishment.
Just from a few minutes speaking with you, we can feel your positivity. Do you think it’s because you’re about to become a mom? Or? I think my positivity stems from running! I don’t just do marathons, I also do cross-country running. When you complete a race, you feel so happy to be alive! Running opens your heart, and you slowly stop focusing on those little, negative, unimportant 出處 IG:@rkrkrk
things in life.
You recently published a book. Tell us about that?
to be under lockdown, citizens were apathetic and
I met my husband seven years ago when I ran
arose, the rich and poor divide widened. The low
the Tokyo Marathon. We started dating five years
point of it all was probably the 311 earthquake
ago, and so I spent a lot of time in Japan. It was
in 2011 which shattered Japan. It wasn’t until
really difficult at first because both of us come
recently, could you feel the energy rising, because
from different backgrounds and cultures. We both
of the 2019 Olympics. I live in Shibuya so tons
worked very hard to try to understand each other,
of buildings were going up everywhere and people
and luckily it has all worked out. Living in Japan
seemed to have regained hope.
clueless about the world. A lot of social problems
is very different than visiting Japan as a tourist. I like to discover things off the beaten path, and
However, noone talks about the Olympics anymore.
am interested in very underground sub-cultures like
Because of the pandemic, it’s as if a newly
Uraharajuku. My husband used to be a DJ and so he
grown tree has once again been burned to ashes.
grew up in these areas. I decided to write a book
Most people in Japan have given up hope of the
titled “Survivor From Tokyo”to introduce a side
Olympics happening next year. Political strife and
of Tokyo that most tourists do not see.
instability is also on people’s minds.
If you’re interested in subcultures and the underground scene, does it relate to our topic “Decay”?
My designer friend Jun Takahashi (the one who
Decay is the perfect word for Tokyo. This city has been spiralling downhill for almost three decades. It’s quite sad. The economy in Tokyo has been in recession for a long time, and you can feel it’s very depressed. For a while, the country seemed
introduced me to running) is really like my mentor, because he’s the type of person that fights for unity. When things are hitting rock bottom he is like a source of energy that boosts morale. He was the one who showed me the connection between running and spiritual growth. Though “decay” describes Tokyo really well, in my book I try to give readers different sides of the story. I’ve
written bits about Tokyo’s dark history, and
photographer. He has a lot of fashion industry
stories that even Japanese people don’t dare to
friends so many of them would hire him to shoot
bring up. I guess it’s because I’ve been through
for them. Recently he even photographed Takashi
a dark and depressive state in my life, so I can
Murakami.
really connect with and understand the city’s vibe and what it’s going through.
Does RK plan on coming to work in Taiwan? Yes, he did a few commercial jobs in Taiwan,
You share a lot of your husband’s work on your Facebook page. Tell us more about him?
and even shot in Taichung. However Japanese photographers tend to be more expensive, so it really depends on the clients’ budget.
To me he’s like a genius photographer. He hasn’t been in the industry for long but his
He recently held an exhibit in Tokyo, and many of
pictures always awe me. When RK was in school
his photographs were shot in Taiwan.
he used to be really good at baseball, and was even expected to play in the professional leagues.
In the near future he probably cannot travel
However he didn’t choose that path, because
because of the pandemic, but he hopes to connect
he was interested in fashion. He chose to study
with more people online and share his photographs
fashion in Tokyo, but when he graduated he
and story with everyone.
decided to be a DJ! Then, he sort of stumbled into being a photographer by taking photos for people during the marathons he’d attend. He would use his iPhone to take pictures for people, and everyone loved the photos. Gradually people started paying attention to him and now even Apple is a longer term sponsor of his. They give him a phone every time a new one is released.
How would you describe RK’s style as a photographer? He used to take photos of architecture with his phone and has kind of become known for it. Few years back when he was walking in Akihabara, he saw a small appliance store with an extensive display of appliances. He took a photo of it, and it garnered a lot of attention. His style was quickly
When we first started dating, I decided to give him a camera as a birthday present. Up until then, he never owned a professional camera. I gave him a Sony digital single lens camera; he didn’t
defined, and all of a sudden everyone was copying and doing the same thing. He was kind of upset at first, because as a photographer, he feels that you should have your own thoughts and ideas.
know how to use it at all, and didn’t know anything about the shutter speed or aperture. But he’s so hard working. He started studying on his own, reading books, and researching online. He was already very good at photoshop, and so combining the two was more easy. Two years ago he quit his job, and decided to become a full time
RK also knows Tokyo very well, so he knows all the secret spots that are great for photoshoots. If a client ever wanted to do a unique or striking shoot in Tokyo, he can help you find all the cool locations because it’s all in his head. He also knows Kabukicho inside and out. RK’s work has
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出處 IG:@rkrkrk
that have been done before. He looks for different
Tell us more about your baby! Any future hopes for him?
angles, ideas, and composition; he spends a lot of
I think I’ll raise my child the same way my mom
time thinking of different ways to shoot. He’s
raised me; very relaxed and chill. Whatever he
still sometimes bothered by the fact that people
wants to do I’ll do my best to be supportive. I
copy his style, but I always tell him to see it as
hope he is an innovative and creative person, just
pressure for you to keep moving forward.
like his dad. I also don’t want him to be too
a very high contrast. He doesn’t like doing things
“good”. I hope he can have his own thoughts
What about your photography style? You’re also a photographer, and now you’re married to one as well. How do you view photography as an art form? When I was in secondary school, I really liked taking photos and wanted to be a photographer. When my husband didn’t know anything about shutter speed and aperture, I was the one who taught him the basics. I’m now his manager and in studio I’m even his assistant! I’m
and beliefs, and not just follow what every one else does or thinks.
You recently posted about your husband taking maternity photos for you online. How was that experience? That day we used Facetime, and he told me where to put the computer, what angle, and told me to move in certain directions, and pose. It was really fun!
really proud of the fact that I am knowledged in traditional film photography as well as digital. I guess I’ve always been interested in photography but never had a clear objective. Then I met my husband and I could see his natural talent and unique “eye” for things. He likes to use a long lens to suppress the background and foreground. And his photos don’t use depth of field. I think it’s really interesting and it's his own unique style. I think part of me wants to live vacariously through him. It’s as if he can fulfill some of the dreams that I never had the opportunity to fulfill. With just two years of experience as a photographer, his whole demeanor and aura in-studio is like that of an experienced master. I’m really positive about his future and am excited to see more of his work.
You must have been really touched by the whole experience? Not really, because he was the one who suggested we shoot via Facetime! He got super serious during the shoot, because when he’s taking photos he is so focused on the composition and the angle. It’s all he cares about! -end
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出處 IG:@rkrkrk
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G RADIEN
STYLIST :
EGG MODEL :
BC LEE
PHOTOGRAPHER :
ASH
SPECIALTHANKS : FANNI
SPECIALTHANKS :
FANNIE/SINWEILI
Our Fashion, Our Style
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"Rotten"
Decay is easy to see visually, bu t we often ignore the process of
wanting to presenting the
different angle of “rotten� in this shooting.
, nky sti ing crib des and ay dec is a term
and is in the completed state when we notice.
decay, a gradient a set “state” into d the of ge an ch form So I
“process”,
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e h t t u p e it v u a r h f u o y d n a , h s e r f g in y u b e It’s lik fruit for days. When to eat you are about
rotten
to eat.
it, it is too
always think what it should be but it We out in an unexpected comes
actually
result.
So, through a panoramic view that couldn’t be seen I want to contrast the seeing and not seeing of in my works. “rotten” in detail,
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你有多自律就有多自由 "The more disciplined you are, the more freedom you will have."
明星御用髮型設計師 Miyake Text by Jane
Photo by 大帥
Interview
髮型設計師 Miyake,因為打從心底喜愛『頭髮』這件事,從 10 幾歲便進入美 髮業,每天自律且自由的步調,喜愛並尊重自己的工作,同時經營髮廊、美髮 品牌,一步一步成為許多明星御用髮型師。
這次的主題,是一種彩度很飽和,很 鮮豔色調的「腐後新生」,在玩髮色 方面,老師是業界的頂尖,用色上的 靈感來自於哪?老師在染髮上,注重 的『型、質、色」是否可以跟 ABOOK 的讀者分享? 目前網路媒體很發達,很多資訊都可以從網
合,創造出質感。如果沒有做到『型、質、 色」,很容易就變成『俗』。所以質感跟色 彩要怎麼拿捏,就是要不斷的練習,經驗的 累積。不斷的提升自己的美感,達到『型、 質、色」!
從事髮型設計師以來,有過低潮嗎? 或是有卡關很久的哪一關?
路找到很多設計師的作品,我自己的認知上 希望帶給客戶的是作品也好、髮型也好,裡
人生誰無低潮!每個人都會有低潮的時刻,
面一定要包含形、質、色,很多人問概念從
只是用什麼樣的心態去面對它,在面對低潮
何而來?不外乎就是自己平常閱讀的東西,
的時候,反而讓我卡關很久的是『心態』,
當然從小時候我就對於頭髮的敏銳度就很
面對越害怕的、你越會被限制住。大家一定
高,從小就會模仿髮型師幫我編的頭髮,我
不相信,『說話』一直是我非常害怕的一件
只要認真看過一遍,我回家就可以把它編出
事,,我認為這跟表達能力有關,從小在南
來,這是『型』的部分。那『色』部分,從
部長大,環境與成長過程都有關係,南部比
小我就喜歡花花的東西,只要色彩繽紛我都
較傳統,思想也比較不是那麼的開放,這會
愛,但這也跟自己以身俱來的喜好有關聯,
是影響我表達能力不是那麼好的原因之一。
以致我在創作的時候習慣把形狀跟色彩做結
但偏偏對髮型設計師這個行業來說,要與顧
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客互動,『說話』是很重要得一件事,到現
個髮型師,而是創造任何事物的藝術家。
在我是如何變成現在可以侃侃而談的樣子, 我也是花了很長的時間不斷地去練習,如何 勇敢得、有邏輯性的表達出自己的意思。也 試過對著鏡子說話、把自己說話的樣子錄下 來,再來檢視修正自己說話的樣子,這些都 是很好的練習方式。所以不要害怕卡關,只 要找出問題點,面對它,其實很快就會突破 了!
有沒有想要放棄的念頭?如果不做設 計師的話,會想做什麼? 從來沒有! 在我三、四歲的時候,我對於 『頭髮』就有很大的好奇心,從小就有自然 捲髮質的我,為了克服它!我就花很多時間 去實驗各種頭髮的問題。 但如果不做設計師的話,從小嚮往母親的職 業——裁縫師,所以小時候有跟母親提過長 大想當服裝設計師,結果立刻被媽媽拒絕, 說家庭狀況無法讓我學服裝設計,原因是如
螢光幕前的米亞奇老師,總是很笑顏 開朗,請問私底下的米亞奇是什麼樣 子的呢? 每個人都有不同面向,我在面對任何事物上 確實是開朗的,可是我也有悲傷的時候,但 這一面我不太喜歡表現出來,負面情緒自己 消化,不要影響給別人。但我私底下還是沒 有反差太多,就是大家看到的這一面。
感覺米亞奇的造型,很時尚,很多變, 穿搭是興趣,還是紓壓? 愛漂亮、愛打扮是天性,我就是自己的芭比 娃娃,有自己的風格,不要在意別人眼光, 你認為好看,就是好看!打扮自己是一件非 常療癒的事,這是興趣也是紓壓。
老師的時尚比較偏哪一種風格?混 搭?潮?該怎麼定義?你們覺得呢?
果沒有出國深造,在台灣的環境很難生存得 下去。
我覺得是混搭又潮流(笑),潮,就是可以
也因為最近疫情的關係,腳步放慢,意外發
很帥,混搭,洋裝搭西裝,好像莫名其妙,
現很多興趣,就是製作香氛蠟燭,有香味、
但也是可以混搭出屬於我的風格。所以不管
顏色、塑形,具備了我最常說的『型質色三
是潮也好、混搭也好,這些套用在我身上,
元素』!最後當然要問你自己的內心,你渴
就是『MI 式風格』!
望什麼,就啟身去追求,會發現我不僅僅是
ABOOK 注意到米亞奇老師開始了 youtube 頻道的經營,請跟大家介紹一 下? 世代在交替, youtube 已成為主流,如果你 想經營自己,想呈現給大家看,就必須透過 自媒體,所以我才開始經營 youtube,有很多
式,每天規律地過每一天,把表定該做好的 事情做好,你會發現自律的當下,你會很自 由。走的每一步都很踏實,不會被任何事有 所牽絆,鳥事也變少了。
對於未來想要從事髮型設計的後進年 青人,有什麼專業上的提醒,或者是 心態上的準備能否給一些建議?
有關美髮實驗性的影片、教學呈現給大家, 請大家多多支持訂閱囉~
現在的年輕人有很多通病,例如應徵時,遲 到不準時,或是上班日消失。你現在所不
老師目前的挑戰是什麼?現在最大的 熱情都投注在哪?
重視的事情,會取決你往後的人生會是怎麼 走。無論你的技術好不好,給人的第一印象 很重要,是要對自己負責,沒有一個行業是
我的熱情還是投注在工作裡,需要經營自
輕鬆的,但在美髮的產業,能屈能伸,是可
己、顧客、店家,很多人問我如何把這些做
以成長得比別人快很多。鼓勵現在年輕人,
到完善,有一句話我可以分享給大家,就是
你要先了解自己,知道自己的興趣在哪,不
『你有多自律你就有多自由』,例如要怎麼
管做什麼樣的工作,前提是你一定要愛它,
經營,方法有一百種,我找出最適合我的方
才能持之以恆。
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老師可不可以獨家提供 ABOOK 讀者 一個「整髮」或「造型」小撇步, for #ABOOKTips ? 詳情請見 ABOOKTV Celebrity hair stylist Miyake has been in the industry since she was a teenager. Discipline, along with a respect for what you do, are her keys to success. Having her own salon and product brand keeps her busy, but she shares her success story with us in hopes of inspiring others to stick to what you love.
on style, quality, and color all at the same time. My own inspiration comes from a lot of the things I read on a daily basis. Ever since I was a child, I had a keen eye for what hairstyles looked good and what didn’t. I’d go to a salon and be able to copy whatever hairstyle the stylist did for me. I would study it once in detail and be able to go home and do it on my own. I loved color as a kid, and anything floral. So perhaps this is why I love to incorporate different colors in my work. Combining different shapes and styles with different colors and creating something that is pretty and not tacky, is perhaps the hardest part. You have to keep practicing, experimenting, and keep exploring different options of beauty. Have you ever had a low point in your career? How did you overcome it? Who doesn’t have low points in their life! I think it’s more about your attitude in dealing with it. The more you dwell on your fear the more constrained you’ll be. Most people
You are one of the top colorists in the industry; where do you get your inspiration? What key techniques do you focus on when it comes to style/quality/color? The internet is so prevalent these days that you can pretty much find a lot of inspiration online. I believe that a good hair stylist focuses
probably wouldn’t believe that I used to fear “talking to people”. I grew up in the south, which has a more traditional culture than compared to Taipei. I think that’s why I had a hard time expressing myself. As a hairstylist though, we have to communicate with our
clients on a daily basis. So, I spent a lot of
emotions that I have, because I feel like I should
time practicing in-front of a mirror, recording
deal with them on my own. Overall I’m not
myself, and adjusting myself and the way I
that different on and off camera.
spoke. Don’t be afraid of problems, but rather you have to tackle it head on.
You have a very eclectic sense of style. What does personal style mean to you?
Did you ever think about giving up? What would you do if you weren’t a hairstylist? Never! I’ve loved hair since I was 3 or 4.
I love dressing up and looking beautiful. It’s
I’m very curious about hair. I have natural curls so I spent a lot of time experimenting and
just in my nature. I am my own barbie doll. Personal style is whatever you feel good in or whatever you think looks good. Dressing up can be very therapeutic. It’s a way to de-stress!
looking for ways to tackle frizz and various other problems. If I wasn’t a hairstylist I would probably be a tailor, just like my mom.
How would you describe your own style? My style is mix-matched and trendy. Like
When I was young I thought about becoming
matching a dress with a suit jacket; it seems
a fashion designer, but my mom convinced my
odd but it’s a unique sense of style. I call it
otherwise. Our family didn’t have the means
"MI" style.
to send me overseas to learn design and without international training, it would be very hard to find work as a designer. Because of the pandemic, I’ve been able to really slow down and discover a lot of new hobbies. I find candle-making very interesting, because you have to take into account the smell, the colors, and the shapes. It’s sort of like hairstyling! I see myself more than just a
We noticed that you started a Youtube page. Tell us about that? Times are changing. If you want more people to notice you and be able to see what you are doing, then I think Youtube is an important platform to focus on. My page has a lot of experimental and educational videos. I hope more people can follow me and subscribe to my page!
hairstylist, but rather a creative person, who likes to experiment with different mediums. What’s Miyake like off camera? On camera you seem very positive and happy. Are you always like this? Everyone has different sides to them. I have to
What are some of the challenges you’re facing right now? What are you most passionate about at the moment? My passion is still my work. I have to manage my channel, my customers, my salon; a lot of
say I’m usually very positive, but it doesn’t
people ask me how I do it all. I always tell
mean that I don’t feel sadness or fear. I guess
people, that the more disciplined you are, the
I don’t like people seeing these negative
more freedom you will have. There are a million
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ways to do things, but you have to find a way that suits you best. Once you know what it is that you want, and you stay disciplined in doing the things that you have to do, you’ll slowly find that this focus grounds you and gives you perspective.
Any tips for those who want to become a hairstylist? A lot of young people nowadays have similar problems, which is mostly related to tardiness. They don’t seem to find it important to show up on time, or to show up at all! These things that you don’t find important right now, will affect your success. First impressions are very important. No matter how skilled you are, if you are not responsible, you won’t get anywhere. No job is easy. I encourage young people to really look within yourself to find out your passion. No matter what job you do, if you love it enough, then your chances of being successful are greatly increased.
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Tsuen
Our Fashion, Our Style
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萬物在冰層之下 醞釀著生機 純正的初衷 鍥而不捨 創始了 新生
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Everything, covered by a sheet of ice, prepares for its moment to grow, with the intention of persistence and perseverance to start a new life.
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Photography:Jessie Ho Makeup artist & Creative Stylist:Monfi Lin Hairstyle:Odye Weng Model:I-Han Cheng Sound Art:Cha Cha Lee Videographer:Tonnie Tseng
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荒屋 MOOR ROOM 古著 / 獨立音樂 / 獨立刊物 / 平面 / 空間 / 活動 Vintage Clothes / Indie Music / Indie Publications / Print / Space / Event
ABOOK’s Picks
Text by Tonnie
隱藏在嘉義市區巷弄的老木屋,由主理人泡泡與蘇濁共同經營的古著店,店內的擺飾 相當愜意隨性 ,保留老屋原有的木造結構,擺置年代老櫃與一些特別的裝飾,雖然是 個營利空間,卻嗅不出任何商業氣息,像是踏進朋友的家門,他們只想與你分享生活 與喜好,台灣為主的年代老衣服、還有他們愛聽的獨立專輯、數量稀少又有意思的小 誌,甚至是有才華朋友的手作物,各個精挑細選,等著你帶著好奇心來尋寶。
荒屋的前身?蘇濁與泡泡開店的故事? 我們算是閃婚,認識幾天後就決定登記結婚 了, 後來搬回了嘉義,平時兩人想要看個演 出、逛個古著店、買個專輯或 zine 都要跑到 外縣市,左思右想後決定自己開一間店。剛 好運氣不錯找到這棟老木屋,這棟老房的原 身是木材行,屋主是當地的老鄰長,經幾次 懇訪,屋主才願意把這間起家厝交給同樣愛 護老房的我們。 當時一邊整理老木屋,一邊 打工賺生活費,我去工地和田裡做臨時工, 泡泡則在早餐店裡工作, 我們下班後一起整 理房子,朋友也都很幫忙。弄出我們喜歡的 樣子後,泡泡再把她和我喜歡的東西放進合 適的位置,慢慢的,我們的店就開起來了。
荒屋是一個怎麼樣的空間? 荒屋對我來說很特別,讓我們可以看見彼此 的長處,這個空間剛好裝下了兩人不同的性 格,還有共同的喜好。
如何挑選販售的商品? 主要我們有分四類 : 1. 古著的選品:要時常去逛跳蚤市場、早市 集,或是開了很久的成衣行,我們不喜歡大量 批貨 ,因為有趣的是挑選這些老品的過程。 2. 唱片:會選一些喜歡的音樂工作者,詢問 他們是否想寄賣在店內,我們唱片的收益是 不抽成的,所得全都歸給寄售方,主要是我 們喜歡,想分享給其他人。 3. ZINE:我們欣賞的藝術工作者做的小誌 與創作,這些也是不抽成。 4. 最後就是販售我們自身的技能,視覺設計 與活動策畫等等。
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創作的靈感來源? 跟自身的狀態比較有關,大部分憑感覺,有時真的只 是朋友間閒聊的幹話,就萌生了畫面。
從台北搬到嘉義開店,選擇了一個比較隨性 自由的生活方式,你認為什麼是生活? 這是哲學問題吧 ? ( 笑 ) 活得快樂就好,我媽是叫 我不要餓肚子,我有達成。
生命在腐化之後,又會帶來新的生命,這 是萬物生生不息週期性循環,本期的雜誌 主題為『腐』,對此你們有什麼看法? 死亡的另一個說法叫轉生,我覺得很有意思。
The old wooden house hidden in the alley of store operated by Bubble and Su Zhuo. The
What was MOOR ROOM previously? What story is behind Su Zhuo and Bubbles’s store? We are regarded as a flash marriage. A few days
decoration in the store is quite comfortable
after we met, we decided to get married. Later
and casual. The wooden structure of the
we moved back to Chiayi, and we decided to
house is retained and the old cabinets and
open a store ourselves because we love vintage.
some special decorations are placed inside.
I was lucky to find this old wooden house. The
the urban area of Chiayi is a vintage clothing
Although it is a shop, it does not bring you any commercial feel, and it is like visiting a friend's house. In Moor Room, you can shop for Taiwanese vintage clothes, your favorite indie albums, and the rare, interesting little magazines. Moreover, there are carefully selected, handcrafted pieces from their talented friends, waiting for you to treasure hunt, waiting to fulfill your curiosity.
old house was originally made of timber, and the owner is a local elder. After several visits, the owner was finally willing to rent this house to us because he was convinced that we would also love the old house as much as he does.
At the time, we cleaned up and re-organized the old house, while working to earn a living. I went to the construction site or the farm
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to work as temporary workers, while Bubble worked in the breakfast shop. We would decorate the house together after work, and our friends came and were very supportive. After we were both satisfied with the house we had been working on , Bubble placed our
 here do you get your creative inspiration? It's mostly related to my own state of mind; it's mostly about my feeling. Sometimes it's really just a small conversation between friends, and the picture pops up in my mind.
collections in its place and we opened shop.
Can you tell us more about what kind of space Moor Room is? Moor Room is very special to me. It makes us
From Taipei to Chiayi, opening a shop and choosing a more casual lifestyle , what do you think life is all about? Is this a philosophical question? (laughs...) Just live happily.
see each other's strengths. This space just fits the our personalities and preferences.
The theme for this issue is "Decay". What do you think of the term?
How do you choose the products that you sell?
Another way of saying death is reincarnation,
There are four main categories of items:
which I find very interesting.
1. Vintage Clothing: We frequently visit flea markets, morning markets, or long-established apparel shops. We don't buy large batches of goods because what interests us is the process of selecting these old goods by ourselves. 2. Records: We sell records from our favorite music artists . We do not make any profit from the sales and all profit goes to the music artists, mainly because we like their music and just simply want to share it with people. 3. MAGAZINE: We sell small works and creation by artists that we like. The profit also goes to them. 4. Finally, we sell our own design skills, visual design and event planning services, etc.
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Photography Tonnie MUA Monfi Lin Hairstyle 賀廣安@黑鵝摩沙 Model 李柏萱 Creative Stylist Monfi Lin
Style 彩妝專欄
所有的妝感來自於影像的開始 Makeup: All Starts With an Image
Monfi's Talk
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遮眉 菱形嘴 五官立體 英氣眉 20 年代來到一個奢華的開始,先將眉毛沾上睫毛膠給它一點時間等待, 用鐵棒將眉毛貼在皮膚上 選較少油質的遮瑕膏直接塗在眉毛上,記得是 順著毛流,遮好眉毛我們就多了很多空間可以畫畫 , 將 10 年代學得暈染 技巧運用在眼影上,在用金色膏狀眼影暈染上直到眉毛,太陽穴,顴骨, 最後疊上金色眼影粉,找一隻好用的眼線液,一筆畫上細細的眉毛(ps: 如何養成一筆就畫好,可以在紙上練習,練習那筆觸)眼睛部位畫好了, 再來嘴巴的部分,記得唇筆沾滿,心中想好希望的唇形,唇峰先開始純 形式往下往內凹進去的,最後用遮瑕膏修飾即完成。 40 年代堅強的女性,來學學修容吧。首先修容的顏色不限於只有修容 餅,不同膚色的粉餅都可以拿來當修容,而且更加自然~找到三個色階, 比肌膚白及肌膚深的加上肌膚本色 , 特別注意!我們是黃種人,所以不 要用到偏藍或偏紅的修容 , 顴骨下方 , 眼窩 , 眉頭下方一直延伸到山根側 面到鼻翼是暗面用深一號粉餅 , 額頭 , 鼻子中間 , 下巴 , 是亮點用淺一號 粉餅 , 其他的部位用本身的膚色粉餅 , 記得區域和區域之間要融合 , 再用 咖啡色系在眼睛好睫毛根處做小面積的暈染 眉毛先用淺灰色在眉毛下方 找到眉型基準漸層暈染上去 , 用深灰勾勒叫俐落的眉峰及眉尾 , 立體的 妝完成。
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20’ 40’
Make up
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The 1920’s was luxurious times. Start
the front ends of your brows towards the
with putting some eyelash glue on your
wings of your nose. Use the lighter powder
eyebrows. Use a metal rod and push
for your forehead, nose bridge, and your
over your eyebrows so it sticks to your
chin. Use the powder closest to your skin
skin. Wait for it to dry. Choose a less oily
tone for the rest of your face. Be sure to
concealer and cover your brows. Now use
blend the different areas together. Put
a gold colored stick eye shadow, and blend
on a bit of brown eyeshadow near your
upwards towards your brow and over your
lashes. For the eyebrows, use a light grey
temples.Then layer on some gold powder
to define the brows, then use a darker grey
eye shadow.Now use liquid eye liner, and
to blend.
draw on your eyebrows in one stroke. For the lips, use a lip brush and start at the top with the cupid’s bow. Use a concealer to cleanup the edges. The 1940’s stood for strong women. Let’s learn how to contour. You don’t have to limit yourself to a contour pallette, but rather different colors of compact powders can be used, which gives you a more natural look. Choose three different colors; one that’s lighter than your skin, one that’s darker than your skin, and one that’s your skin color. Just remember, we’re Asian so our skin has a yellower tone. Stay away from blue or red tones. Use a dark colored powder to contour below your cheek bones, your eye crease, and below
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The world is blurry Photography / 江俊民 Model / Jane Fang Styling / Chuan Kao MUA / Alice Chang (VIVI Makeup Studio) Special Thanks / ABOOK STUDIO
Our Fashion, Our Style
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越來越不清楚的世界裡模糊了一切 物體顛倒擋不住的太陽 負面的情緒深深的烙印在水裡 當從水面破出時這世界轉正了嗎?
The world is blurry; Under the heat of the sun; Negative emotions sink in the water; When we arise, will the world be cured?
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Y
共
同
M
創
作
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江俊民 藍森松 何國輝
A4(21297)
曾譯萱 李佳衡 林夢薇
特別感謝
蔡昕晏 San 傅昱
Model
O
S
I
S
輝 李科賢 劉誠 王創緯 姜知育 王聖夫 蔣培郁 張博焦
薇 羅嘉
Our Fashion, Our Style
I
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2020 開始就為這一年下了定義: 暫停、休息、放空。 有什麼機會像現在這樣,老天爺決定放大家一個長假, 光明正大的,也沒有罪惡感的,讓心休息一下。 幾個攝影師就這樣聚在一起,其實是難得的機會, 讓好朋友相聚,也加入了新朋友。 我們在台北、台北近郊遊玩,用郊遊的方式去了龍洞、萬華及那個平常習 以為常的小公園,我們曬著太陽。 台北的濕熱、台北的雨及台北日常的早晨,從春分一直來到了夏日,每個 突出來的相機鏡頭,代表一個人的內心、視角與感受。大家相互排斥、吸 引、融合 形成了影像的樣子,週日下午,在攝影棚架起了黑絨布,打了一 盞燈,架起相機 ,收錄了自白。
Q:攝 (按下快門) 影 (留下) 對你是什麼? 簡單敘訴生活的背景 生於哪裡? 住於哪裡? 如何開始? 環境對你來說是什麼?
過去,現在 ,未來 ,心中新生的芽~ 當這樣的創作方式告一段落,早已 在心中種下一顆種子,而有了新生 。
江俊民
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何國輝
李科賢
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何國輝
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藍森松
2020 is all about “pause�.
There’s never been a time where we could just take some time off without guilt; to let our bodies and minds rest and take a break. Some of my photographer friends thus had the opportunity to get together. We made new friends and connected with old ones. We travelled to all parts of Taipei and the suburbs. We went to Longdong Bay, Wanhua, and all different types of parks around the city. Under the hot sun, we took out our cameras. Each camera representing a longing and passion to create something together.
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姜知育
way
江俊民
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李科賢
何國輝
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藍森松
Oscar
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李科賢
何國輝
江俊民
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藍森松
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Our Fashion, Our Style Art Installation / Tonnie Tseng Photographer / Tonnie Tseng Videographer / Tonnie Tseng & Taz Chiang Film Editor / Tonnie Tseng & Taz Chiang
To Live, To Live
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若將鮮豔的花朵視為人的血肉 死亡將是一種回歸 是一種有機與無機的轉換過程 腐敗之後不是虛無 而是新生
生生,指變化和新生事物的發生 生命當下即是美好,生命的燦爛不只是綻放的那一刻
循環過程的每一刻,都是一樣燦爛的
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If the flowers represent the flesh Then death can be seen as a return, or coming home It’s a kind of organic transformation The moments after decay Is not death, but a rebirth To live, means to create new things, and new life Life is good, but it’s not just about the good All parts of the cycle of life, is magnificent
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From Reader
rs
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在日常生活中,食物會腐敗,動植物的殘骸會腐爛, 儘管世間萬物與人都難逃腐爛的命運,人類還是想 盡辦法躲避 “ 腐 ” 這件事情,所以我們有了冰箱, 有了防腐劑,甚至刻意讓腐化的過程使食物變得更 鮮美。 我們生活中無可避免腐爛的現象,出生至死亡也許 就是個腐爛的過程?死亡與腐爛對於地球上的生命 至關重要,世界不會因死亡而停止轉動。猶如大樹 的倒下,為大氣帶來二氧化碳;細菌與蛆蟲努力將 死亡生物的養分轉化成新的生命。 我們都是其他生命的一部分,從生到死,從死到生, 週而復始,最終都將通過循環而再次生生不息。
When there is life, there is death. The slow process leading to demise, we call it many words; age, decline, rot, decompose, decay... Food rot, animal and plant remains decay; all life on earth cannot escape this endless chain. We invented the refrigerator, preservatives, and even found ways to ferment food as if to somehow make the process less repulsive. But, when will we all see that it’s inevitable? There’s no need to fight it. Decay. It’s part of life and death. There needs to be life for there to be death; but also, there needs to be death for there to be life. Trees fall, but bring nutrients to the earth. Worms and bugs attack the decayed, while harvesting energy to create new life. It’s a cycle, and each process along the way is important.
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PHOTOGRAPHER / 李柏毅
居住跟入土的場所,中間隔著球場。
生活之中,總有向上探尋的時刻,仰望的同時,也期待俯下的凝視。 即使是同時發生的事物,仍有不同觀看的解讀,我們因此有了更寬廣尺度 的憑藉,以及重新定義渺小與巨大的可能,無與有,通常不是絕對,黑與 白,總是存在著度量以外的灰,而生命也是如此。
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In life, we always seem to look up for answers. But while we look up, don´t forget to also look down, and upon. There are always two different interpretations of the same story. Two different angles to look at it. No matter what happens, when our mindset is widened, the possibilities are then boundless. We can redefine what is small, and what is large; what is right and what is wrong. There is no definite answer. There is no absolute.
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《焦慮關係》 PHOTOGRAPHER / 戴宏霖
我透過影像記錄我每天洗澡後掉落的⽑髮,它們堵住
餐聊天都抽不出時間。我們錦衣⽟食卻食之無味,我
了浴室的排⽔孔,就如同我的精神狀態受到⽣活壓⼒
們⾝處⼈海卻依然感到寂寞孤單,我們信誓旦旦卻不
的堵塞。我將其連同排⽔孔蓋⼀同移出,進⾏拍攝,透
知夢想現在何⽅,以⾄於落得透過觀看別⼈直播吃飯
過平⾯攝影的⽅式記錄下它們,同時也將我的精神狀
的視頻來聊以⾃慰;通過窺視他⼈的⽣活狀態來衡量
態具象化。
⾃⼰的⽣活⽔平;通過網絡平台來為⾃⼰找尋⼀點虛
隨著科技與網路路的發展,我們的⽣活步調變得越來
假的溫暖和安全感」。
來越快速,從餐廳的調理包,到每週更新的速時尚產 業,⼜或者是在幾秒內就得決定左右的交友軟體,甚
「世界越走越快、彷彿地球也越轉越快,這使我無時
⾄是短視近利的政治選擇。我們講求快速、⽅便,不再
無刻感到焦慮,⽇復⼀⽇在恐慌中渡過,就好像⼤家
注重質量與⾝⼼的健 康,只要便宜就好、CP 值⾼就
都順應了時代的潮流,唯獨我還在原地踏步。但我還
好。 ⼈與⼈之間漸漸的不再交⼼,追求的是短暫歡愉
想堅持、堅持那些舊有的美好,但現實就像在⽉臺上
的消費體驗,⾦錢慢慢變成⼤眾衡量對錯的標準,尊
候⾞的⼈潮,推擠著我上⾞,儘管我使勁站穩腳步,卻
嚴、⽂化和⺠族認同在利益的誘惑下遭到摒棄。科技
像逆⽔⾏⾈般被擠進那名為未來趨勢的列⾞當中。」
的進步、網路的蓬勃發展,使得出⽣在這個世代的我 們,延伸出許多特有⽣活⽅式,社群網站的⼈際關係、
這是我的⾃⽩,也是與我⾃⾝的《焦慮關係》。
直播⽂化的興起、KOL 及網紅才有的獨特影響⼒,在
透過《焦慮關係》的拍攝,我無時無刻在提醒著⾃⼰,
這資訊爆炸的背後,卻是整個世代的集體焦慮。
我的⽣命正⼀分⼀秒在流逝與腐化,我透過紀錄每天
如同作家孫芊芊在《吃播節⽬盛⾏的背後》⼀⽂中所
⾃⾝掉落的⽑髮,體現並瞭解⾃⼰的⾝體與精神狀態。
提及 :
「現代⼯業、信息技術⾶速發展之後,過度膨脹的城 市化擠壓了⼈類有限的感性空間。 ⾏⾊匆匆地走進擁擠的地鐵站,⾯無表情地端坐在辦 公室的電腦前,應付差事般地解決掉了各種快餐。我 們連和⽗⺟通個電話、和孩⼦玩個游戲、和朋友聚
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Photography Linda Cooper Styling Karlmond Tang Make-up Nataxa Model Victoria Middleton Photography Assistant Andrew Huang Lei Pan
Our Fashion, Our Style
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攝影創作誕生之時, 沒人能看見過程中產生的「廢片」 不夠好的、被淘汰的、意外失手的。 默默地以數位的型態存在硬碟裡 隨時間或許就腐銷殆盡、消逝在磁軌 拜科技之賜,照相的藝術失去了些什麼 另個角度也得到了些什麼: 廢片、透過科技重製, 調個對比顏色、重疊交融、換個角度 也得以華麗再生,又或是,嗯,所謂的,
Upcycling ?
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When a photo is taken, no one pays attention to the "unwanted images" produced in the process. Those photos that are not good enough; the eliminated, missed, wasted shots, silently stored in digital form. Maybe the photos would rot away and disappear in time. But, thanks to technology, we ca n n ow ta ke t h e s e u n w a n te d images, and retouch them, edit them, overlap them, and play with them to give us something new, something that we want.
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