2013 August ISSUE 18
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ABOOK 意團隊有限公司 104 台北市內湖區港墘路 221 巷 39-1 號 Te l : ( 0 2 ) 2 6 5 7 - 1 6 6 6 Fa x : ( 0 2 ) 2 6 5 7 - 1 5 5 5 Email : hello@abook.cc We b s i t e : w w w. a b o o k . c c
監製 Supervisor
翻譯編輯 Translation Editors :
攝影總監 Photography Director :
色彩管理 :
張艾嘉
姜怡帆 Annie Chiang
林炳存 Joshua Lin
王振昇
攝影編輯 Photography Editors :
行政管理 :
林特、張騰元、陳冠璋、Linda Cooper
張騰元
後製編修 :
執行公關 :
王培華 Hingis、陳宛均 kye
星予公關
姜怡如 Connie Chiang 營運長 CEO: 林炳存 Joshua Lin
英國特駐 Overseas Editor : Linda Cooper
創意總監 Creative Director : 尹培袞 Sean Yin
採訪編輯 Assistant Editor : 小金
造型總監 Styling Director :
發行人 Publisher : 賀錫敬 Leo Ho
視覺主編 Design Director :
林夢薇 Monfi Lin
Alex Chang 總編輯 Editor in Chief :
編輯策劃 Special Project Managers:
林特
趙欣、桑科 顧問團隊 Consultants : 陽帆、廖鎮漢、詹仁雄、 林知佑、廖曉喬
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觀點 / Perspective 失焦 Out of Focus --- Nella
封面故事 / Cover Story 張懸 How Do We Focus? --- Joshua Lin
時尚造型師的工作記事 Stylist Talk --- 林夢薇 Monfi Lin 本土創意 / Taiwan Talents 新事物 / Abook Express Balenciaga 早秋 --- 簡單即經典
時尚攝影 / Abook Fashion
鏡頭的呼吸律動 --- 余靜萍 （後編） 聲音的風景 --- 新銳藝術家 王仲堃
視界 / Abook Gaze 台灣龐克精神 Taiwanese Punk --- Emily Doom
失真 Distortion --- 林特 Chun P. Lin 布拉格之戀 L’Insoutenable Légèreté de l’être --- Kuan-Chang Chen
來稿登錄 / From Readers
街頭紳士 Street Dand --- 林特 Chun P. Lin 雌雄同體 Hermaphroditism --- A-Yuan Chang Another World Is Impossible --- 朱ㄧ平
Abby Gong 郭潔渝 Criscent Guo Kai Claudio Parentela
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失焦 Out of Focus
坐在電腦前。你束手無策。
職業之後，逢年過節我就會考慮它是不是
客戶是百步穿楊的神射，你開始確信自己不
滾回去當興趣比較好。每個月總是有那麼幾
管往什麼方向努力都是死路一條。
天，你想要大喊：「等你跟謝金燕一樣正之
你開始相信自己多年累積的經驗不過是愚公
前你都不可以嘗試她的曲風！」甚至想跟客
移山的天真。
戶說命理上你跟他八字不合請他找別人吧。
你開始…希望手邊的WhatsApp，
LINE什麼
在名為音樂的商場上，我勸退的話術甚至比
的可以彈出點訊息。
勸敗多。
或許是大學同學今晚約吃宵夜，或許是老同
人生有時候就是矛盾兩個字，一方面跟你說
事找你騎UBike直奔關渡宮，或許是某個年輕
減肥絕對不能碰碳水化合物，一方面又跟你
美眉想要你幫她試音錄DEMO丟唱片公司但
說碳水化合物是脂肪的助燃劑。到最後你成
是開不了口只好先找你吃個飯。總之跟眼前
了化學家開始研究自己該攝取多少Omega-3
的災難比起來，任何可以暫時讓今天有個善
來平衡體內的脂肪酸，卻忘了自己一開始是
終的事情都變得如此溫柔；像是章子怡在火
要減肥。我很想知道像傑森史塔森那樣的演
車上將頭輕靠在張震懷裡那樣。
員，在他眼中到底是訓練自己的演技重要， 還是練肌肉練格鬥技重要？會不會想要像休
當音樂還是興趣的時候，我很清楚未來有一
傑克曼那樣脫離那套黑西裝去演演看鋼鐵擂
天要讓音樂變成我的職業。但是當音樂變成
台，或是羨慕小勞勃道尼可以演福爾摩斯或
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鋼鐵人。簡而言之，我們都喜歡追求自己所
扇公主睡覺的話去當牛魔王就好啦，但是你
沒有的東西，尤其是無法靠努力換來的外表
原本的初衷是當牛魔王嗎？
或才能，尤其是手中的銅板無法換來的氣質 與別人的尊敬，尤其是手中的銅板買不起的
如果無從決定自己的人生應該如何聚焦，那
那些奢華荒誕。我想知道那些成功人士是否
麼是否我們就這樣失焦地過完一生？
對自己的定位與目標如此篤定，亦或是他們
如果寧願永遠凝視著自己焦段無法看清的那
也追求著自己沒有的另一半世界？
片矇矓，那麼我們追求的是否正是失焦地過 完一生？
夢的開始如此單純。你訂好偉大的航道然後 邁開步子。你是男子漢，就算喝咖啡也是乾
又，誠實地看清自己如此失焦的活著是否就
杯的男子漢。幾年後你看著朋友們買車買房
活該被鄙視？
了，你聽說他們結婚生子了。你還是當年的 那個三藏但是如今你也不確定自己還想不想
NELLA
去天竺取經了。你身邊淨是一些完全不懂佛 法的野生動物，而你們在林子裡打怪練功， 覺得就這樣下去似乎也不錯。你堅定的步伐 變成亦步亦趨，最後心裡終於有了隨波逐流 的念頭。如果你羨慕牛魔王可以每天抱著鐵
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Sometimes you find yourself sitting in front of the
cally it’s better they go and hire somebody else. In
computer, not knowing what to do, because the cli-
the music industry, I always seem to dissuade more
ent is like a master archer and you have no where to
than persuade.
hide.You start to believe that your years of experience means nothing, and you were way too naiive
Things in life can often be very contradictory. Some-
to think “you could handle it”. You start hoping that
times people will tell you to avoid carbohydrates
your phone would ring...to save you from it all, or at
when you’re on a diet. Other times people will tell
least to offer a distraction from all the stress you are
you that carbohydrates help in the digestion of fat.
experiencing. With “you” I mean “me”.
In the end, instead of focusing on losing weight, you’ve become a nutritionist and an expert on how
Back when making music was just a hobby for me, I
Omega-3 fatty acids is crucial.
knew that I wanted to make a career out of it. But now when music has become my profession, I’ve
I’ve always wondered what an actor like Jason Stath-
wanted, from time-to-time, for music to go back
am values more; his acting skills or his martial-arts
to being just a hobby. Every month there are days
training? Would he want to be like Hugh Jackman
where I just want to scream at the top of my lungs,
and act in a movie like ‘Real Steel’ or be like Robert
“if you’re not as hot as Xie Jing Yan, you can not try
Downy Jr. and take on a role in ‘Sherlock Holmes’
her style of music”! I’ve even wanted to tell clients
or ‘Iron Man’? In short, I believe we all like to pur-
that because we do not suit each other astrologi-
sue things we do not have. In our world, physical at-
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tractiveness and talent can not be acquired through
If you can’t decide on a focal point in your life, does
pure dedication. Personality and respect can not be
that mean you shall live out-of-focus for your en-
acquired with money, and money can not buy you all
tire existence? If you’d rather look at your life with a
the extravagant absurdities that you crave. I wonder
hazy glare, does that also mean you are choosing to
if successful people truly appreciate their accom-
live life without focus?
plishments and social status, or are they still chasing Perhaps if you are lost and at least honest about it,
after the things that they do not yet own?
then maybe it’s a focal point in itself. Dreams start off so simple. You see a pathway and take the first stride. You have great plans and goals
I think I am being quite honest.
for yourself and you are full of hope and optimism. As time flies by, you see your friends settle down,
NELLA
buy nice cars, and move into their own homes. Their stable lives seem “not so bad” after all, and the otherwise determined you start to wabble and secondguess your own decisions. At this point in life you have to really ask yourself what is it that you truly want? What is it that you wanted in the first place?
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Stylist Talk 造型師林夢薇的工作記事
最近助理常問我，當我在拍攝Abook時，是否
與影像。
都先設計過，我不假思索地回答：「沒有。」 在那個當下，無論是造型、化妝、髮型，這 很多時候，造型就像是一場即興演出的舞台
些名詞，以及它們所包含的流程與規則，都
劇，當然支撐這個「即興」的背後，來自於
被我拋在腦後，留下來的，是當時工作團隊
多年來大家合作的默契，以及演出者對我們
之間、人與人、人與環境之間的感受，我想
（造型師與攝影師團隊）的信任，願意如此
這是最單純的、最重要的，卻也最容易被遺
自在地坐在我跟前，讓我隨性地在他們臉上
忘的，簡單說，在那樣融洽與默契之下的創
或身上創作，有時候像畫畫、有時候像插
作，帶給影像更大的力量，我很慶幸是Abook
花，有時候更像是作裝置般地完成每個造型
的一員，也不會忘記這件事。
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PHOTOGRAPHY by Jessie Ho
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Recently my assistants keep asking me whether or not my work for Abook are predesigned or pre-meditated. My answer is quick and simple: “No it’s not”. Styling is sometimes like improv theatre. Improv works because the performers and the team work well together, and that comes with years of practice and familiarity with each other. Confidence and trust between the styling team, the photography team, and
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the models are crucial. My work is sometimes like painting a canvas and sometimes like putting together a magnificent floral arrangement. At work, nothing is really going on in my head but the mere enjoyment of working in the moment. To me this is the most pure and the most important. Simply put, working in a harmonious and trusting environment gives great strength to the imagery. I’m very honoured to be a part of Abook and I will never forget it.
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PHOTOGRAPHY by Kenny Yang Kai Chenche
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fashion news
Balenciaga 早秋 簡單即經典
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fashion news
人們的生活穿梭在快與慢、忙碌與放鬆之間，高溫的城市與舒適的鄉間彷彿是 現代人同時想要的生活場域。漁民日常衣著化身軍裝短打上衣 ”Vareuse” 的 設計前身，也是Cristobal Balenciaga對於服裝實穿性與經典的基礎靈 感，Balenciag 2013早秋系列除了向此經典版型致敬之外，也混合了田園與都市 的元素，展現風格的反差與協調，打造出現代女性帥氣幹練而又不失溫柔的魅力。
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fashion news
Classic Simplicity
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fashion news
Life seems to happen within the dualities of the fast and the slow; the hustle and bustle of the big city and the relaxed auras of the country side, are both yearned for by the modern person. In Balenciaga’s 2013 Fall collection, Alexander Wang pays tribute to the classical house elements of Cristobal Balenciaga yet incorporates a mix and match of country and city elements that truly present a contrasting yet coordinated Wang style. The modern Balenciaga woman is strong and competent yet soft and beautiful at the same time.
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失真 Distortion
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PHOTOGRAPHY / 林特 Chun P. Lin MAK E-UP / Pearl Kwok WAR DROBE / Chieh m s MODEL / Ruby Shiau @ Lo-wen St udio
如同人與人的關係， 或許一張照片也是， 隔著一層什麼， 不要太接近， 不要太清楚， 那麼模糊就變成一種美。
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Similar to human relationships, a picture is perhaps the most beautiful when seen from afar...with less clarity...with less focus...
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L’Insoutenable Légèreté de
PHOTOGRAPHY / Kua n ｜ STYLE / Ia n ｜ MAK E-UP / Hui- Ching Ya ng ｜ HAIR / Mr. Seven ｜ HAIR ASSISTANT / Ms. Kua n ｜ MODEL / OLYA @ ISIS model agency
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e l’être
布拉格之戀
｜
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Maison Martin Margiela / 灰色針織body / 黑色蜘蛛網罩衫 Versus / 白色不對稱洋裝 K.T.Z / 黑色圓形手環 / 黑白色條紋手環
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人們的自我容易被情緒與慾望蒙蔽、支配，盲目地追求著無人能定義 的好壞。米蘭昆德拉說：「負擔越沉，我們的生活也就越貼近大地， 越趨進真切與實在。」不媚俗能不能回歸專注於生命的單純與美好， 不再失焦？
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S T R E E T D A N D Y 街頭紳士
PHOTOGRAPHY / 林特 Chun P. Lin STYLIST / 陳亭文 MAK E-UP / Corin Liu HAIR / Po Tsa ng Ho MODEL / Allen Tsa i
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「時尚是一種生活方式」這句話，如果反過來說，所有的生活方式也是不 是一種時尚？把種族、性別、貧富等客觀條件都去除之後，美醜的判斷或 許就可以變得更純粹。
Fashion is a way of life and thus life itself is a form of fashion. If the objectivity of race, gender, and wealth is placed aside, then perhaps the “beautiful and the ugly” can be more purely distinguished from one another.
On Model_ Arc’teryx 紅木色毛帽(White Rock) SLIGHTLYNUMB牛角釦連帽背心 MANIA黑色連帽運動背心 PROVIDER復古車圖樣短袖襯衫 SLIGHTLYNUMB民族風短褲 METALIZE四件一組手鍊(N.S.S. Concept Shop) BRAiNCHiLD連續圖紋毛毯
Other Items_ SLIGHTLYNUMB英國國旗圖樣棉質後背包 （N.S.S. Concept Shop） REMIX收納式後背包
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On Model_ MANIA黑白色五片帽 SILENT白色長版襯衫 (ARTIFACTS) SILENT拼接西裝外套 (ARTIFACTS) SILENT長版大衣 (ARTIFACTS) SILENT抽繩短褲 (ARTIFACTS) MANIA紅色人字拖
Other Items_ MANIA海灘巾 MANIA藍綠色系格紋長方巾 MANIA紅色格紋長方巾 REMIX圓圈圖樣流蘇方巾 REMIX雨傘 CATSi“JUSES IS BUSY”托特包（N.S.S. Concept Shop) CATSi“ONLY MUM CAN JUDGE ME”托特包 (N.S.S. Concept Shop) The Ampal Creative五片帽 (PROVIDER)
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On Model_ MANIA黑白色五片帽 SILENT白色長版襯衫 (ARTIFACTS) SILENT拼接西裝外套 (ARTIFACTS) SILENT長版大衣 (ARTIFACTS) SILENT抽繩短褲 (ARTIFACTS) MANIA紅色人字拖
Other Items_ MANIA海灘巾 MANIA藍綠色系格紋長方巾 MANIA紅色格紋長方巾 REMIX圓圈圖樣流蘇方巾 REMIX雨傘 CATSi“JUSES IS BUSY”托特包（N.S.S. Concept Shop) CATSi“ONLY MUM CAN JUDGE ME”托特包 (N.S.S. Concept Shop) The Ampal Creative五片帽 (PROVIDER)
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On Model_ WISDOM碎花長袖襯衫 (White Rock) BRAiNCHiLD丹寧背心 Wild Things綠色短褲 (White Rock) WISDOM迷彩防水大衣 (White Rock) MANIA紅色毛帽 Vivienne Westwood領帶 WISDOM登山靴 (White Rock)
On Goat_ Vivienne Westwood領結 Other Item_ REMIX×PROVIDER×OVERKILL聯名方巾 SLIGHTLYNUMB民族風短褲 PROVIDER皮革騎士手套 MSPC藍染提袋 MSPC皮革拼接托特包
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On Model_ BRAiNCHiLD棉麻質英國國旗襯衫 BRAiNCHiLD棉麻質英國國旗西裝外套 BRAiNCHiLD棉麻質英國國旗長褲 WISDOM登山靴 (White Rock）
Other Items_ CATSi“JUSES IS BUSY”托特包 (N.S.S. Concept Shop) CATSi“ONLY MUM CAN JUDGE ME”托特包 (N.S.S. Concept Shop) The Ampal Creative五片帽 (PROVIDER） WISDOM酒紅色登山靴 (White Rock） OVERKILL綠色棉質帽 B-SIDE迷彩短褲 OVERKILL吊帶短褲 MANIA藍色條紋海灘褲
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On Model_ REMIX防水材質漁夫帽 NEXHYPE連帽短袖Tee (N.S.S. Concept Shop) REMIX棉質無邊口袋西裝外套 REMIX防水材質托特包
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HERMAPHRODITISM 雌雄同體
PHOTOGRAPHY / A Yua n Cha ng STYLING & MAK E-UP / Monf i Lin MODEL / Ja n @ PACE
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在一千五百多年前的中國，既然已經出現「雄兔腳撲朔，雌兔眼迷 離」，何況是過了十數世紀的現在？性別的界線在外表與內在上越發 模糊，發掘自己的個人特色，即是這個現象的最好解答。
Fifteen hundred years ago the “Ballad of Mulan” cites that male and female rabbits running side by side can not be distinguished from one another in gender. Centuries later, the boundaries of which we typecast the different sexes are also blurred. Discovery of one’s unique self identity seems to be much more important now than traditional gender categories.
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ANOTHER WORLD IS IMPOSSIBLE
PHOTOGRAPHY / 朱一平 STYLING / 趙青蘭、劉璐 WAR DROBE / 周瑾 MODEL / 索億 Sp e cial t ha n k s to 上海義峰文化傳播有限公司
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遺落 放棄 混亂 太多失序的崩壞在我們周遭發生 依然存在的戰爭威脅 強制拆遷住家的蠻橫權利 還有那已不在的美國夢 就讓視線失焦吧 這樣面對一切或許會簡單些
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氣溫36度左右的大中午，張懸纖瘦的身影出現了，就 算是個大熱天也要穿著黑色的她，看起來更白皙，和火 傘高張的周圍，好像一點關係也沒有的冷靜與優雅。關 於「失焦」這個主題，總是很有自己想法的張懸，也與 我們分享了許多她的觀點。
It was a sunny afternoon, 36 degrees and burning, when Zhang Xuan (Deserts) walked into our studio dressed in black and looking as thin and elegant as ever. Her calm demeanor seemed to bring along with it a cool and calm breeze that freshened the room. Known for having a mind of her own, Zhang Xuan had a lot to say about the theme of this issue and candidly talks to us about what “focus” means to her.
How Do We Focus? 張懸 PHOTOGRAPHY / Joshua Lin STYLING / Monfi Lin
INTERVIEW / 林特 Chun P. Lin
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手金屬飾品 by PASSHION
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這世界的審美觀似乎有些失焦， 你的看法是？
人天生的線條、特色、長相等等，沒有什麼比得上「組合起來」之後的和 諧，就像舒淇經典的五官，絕對不是來自於精雕細琢，而是與生俱來的和諧 美。有一陣子我很著迷於攝影師 Danil Golovkin 拍攝白子模特兒的照片，那 些攝影作品讓人感動之處，並不是拍攝「白子」這件事，而是讓攝影師讓模 特兒發揮出身上最大的優點，美而寧靜的，像精靈一般。整個世界的審美觀 似乎是在「特色之前，能被人看中的東西」，每個人都應該把自己當成一個 藝術品來塑造，而不是把自己捏造成一個對藝術品的想像。
大部份的人似乎都依靠創造「美」的人來改變價值觀，去被告知是「有這種 美」的，如果提供價值觀的提供者可以把選項提供的更好，讓大家知道原來 這世界上不止一種菜色，美這件事應該可以更活潑、更自由自在，我們也需 要不同的、對自己有自信的人，在自己的身份上提出觀點。
東方文化以往的觀點中，人們沒有機會與人討論自己的身體，大家都只能揣 摩「好看的標準」，也並不習慣教導女生喜歡自己的身體，身體的「好看」 大多來自於男性的觀點。唯一的重點是，「你呈現的你，是想要得到別人認 同的你，還是你自己想要呈現的你？」
包裝自己是一件很可愛的事，但必
須是要自己想呈現的樣子，才能算是一種自我表達，至少在面對自己的這一 關，可以少一點讓別人告訴你「哪裡好看」。
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「玫瑰色的你」歌詞的創作背景 與「失焦」的關聯
我不是一個喜歡用想像去保護純真的人，所以每首歌都有一些女人的自 覺和表達，每一首歌也都可以變得很雙關，可以有愛情、有互相依賴的 親情，也可以像是競爭對手的關係，當然也可以很社會批判的。這個社 會的價值觀，都可以反映在男女相處的問題上，如果從這個角度去講社 會上的問題，也是互通的。
在「玫瑰色的你」裡，我並沒有把認同的事當作愛人在照顧，我把它們 當作生命伴侶一樣地去理解。這首歌是在說吳音寧，為了中科四期園區 開發調撥農業用水一案，她擋在怪手前面。我在想的是，我們的社會是 怎麼走到這一步，讓作家不當作家，而要去擋怪手；是怎麼讓歌手不去 唱情歌安慰人，而選擇去叫大家看看世界？台灣的物質與建設已經豐富 到人們不會覺得匱乏，但是我們卻還是無法去做該做的事情，而是要先 放下一切，去阻止一些不想任由其發生的事。
人們似乎普遍認為，社會運動是社會運動人士的責任，在一些意見表達 上，也似乎很害怕自己不知道自己是對還是錯，很想選邊站。就像戴了 有色的眼鏡，避開了所有不好看的東西，既然所有人都用這個眼光看世 界，那麼也讓我像小丑一樣的，戴起有色的眼光看世界。因此「玫瑰色 的你」這首歌並不是一種柔情的讚美，而是一個反諷、是一個貶義詞。
在這被染色的世界裡，我寧可用夢幻、勇氣和純真，去看待這些為了單 純心願，用活生生的生命去捍衛的人，寫歌的我也把自己當成小丑，「 就讓我大肆地為你們慶祝吧！在這個歌舞昇平，價值觀有點失衡的年 代，如果我們都得選邊站，我要站在你這邊，不管我是不是看起來像小 丑一樣過分樂觀。」
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當歌手的使命感
我不是故意要把歌手當得這麼嚴肅的。從小受搖滾樂影響很大，喜歡赤裸裸、亂七 八糟，不喜歡約定成俗的東西。身在現今的價值觀中，我放下許多個人性格，很少 聽到我喜歡買什麼、崇拜什麼，寧願用歌手的身分，跟年輕人分享影響過我的人是 什麼樣子，而不想用物質來標示我的個人特色。想要讓年輕人瞭解詩歌的價值，不 只是在於投射的抽象概念，而是在於傳遞開來之後，那種人與人連結的力量。
所有的人應該都離不開年輕的時候聽到的音樂，或是看到 的藝術，無論在未來會當成一個愛好，或是一種追求，但 是都離不開。年輕就像一張空白的紙，永遠會記得畫下去 的第一筆。
年輕人在聽音樂時，很容易覺得自己眇小，會很羨慕那些可以說出很棒的話、做出很好的事情的人，但這些沒什麼好 羨慕的，重要的是要怎樣珍惜這個可以打造自己的時光，記得自己年輕的時候長什麼樣子，而不是那時候正在喜歡 誰，要在年輕的時候充滿自己的生命經驗，而不是塞滿的別人的故事。不要害怕自己「如果不變成某種人就不能做什 麼事」，只要想多知道一點事，一定會變成對這件事情有力量去貢獻的人。
我不贊成別人羨慕我，我只希望我的那些歌，可以陪伴他們變成一個可以 發掘自己、喜歡自己的人，一個懂得喜歡自己的人一定知道該怎麼愛別 人，想要怎麼被對待，也一定可以好好對待別人。
很夢幻的詩歌背後其實都藏著很大的心願，如果不是被煽動地去自發的跟 著歌詞唱，我的表演能讓台下的觀眾，不自覺的想和身邊的人說聲我愛 你，或是謝謝你，大概會讓身為一個歌手的我，覺得此生足矣吧！（笑）
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價值觀的「重新對焦」
年輕人要具備獨立觀點的思考，所有公開的資訊與交換的意見，纔會真 正變成一種交流，而不是催眠或慫恿。真相要靠自己查證，年輕的時候 去過一兩次示威抗議是很酷的事情，是一種人生體驗，但是當人問起原 因，不能不知道自己為什麼支持或是反對，比如說，去了反核遊行之 後，是不是要能更瞭解政府的能源政策到底出了什麼問題，就算沒有問 題，又希望台灣應該要怎麼使用能源。這些是年輕人要問自己的問題， 不能永遠依靠別人的答案作資訊的參考。
我們好像都只看得見發生的事件，年輕人看到這些發生的事情，卻不確定自己要不要參與，那就不如先開 始作個求知慾旺盛的人吧。例如說，最近拿冰淇淋出來作不會融化的實驗，以前的媽媽搞不好經過就把它 拿來吃掉了，覺得浪費，實驗就會失敗了，但是關於實驗這件事情，根本不需要提出什麼數據，只要看到 冰淇淋在那三天不融化，要不要吃就變成可以判斷的事了。
所以任何一個求知慾旺盛的人，都可以突破現有的觀點，這和以前犯 了多少錯誤無關，而是從什麼時候開始可以有新的選項。所以現在年 輕人最可貴的就是求知慾，如果可以先打開求知慾，憑著幽默感與不 死心，可以讓很多東西有了「事實勝於雄辯」的討論，那我們就可以 進一步停止聽別人「講得跟真的一樣」，然後開始有這個年代價值觀 的判斷，只要珍惜自己「想知道什麼東西」的念頭就好了，不需要懂 很多，「想懂很多」比較重要。
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Our world’s perception of beauty seems a bit blurred. What do you think?
Our physical body is made up of lines and curves; however looking at it separately would not do it justice because genuine beauty is found when you look at the merger of these lines and curves as a harmonious combination. Beauty as a whole really is greater than the sum of its parts. For a while, I was really fascinated with photographer Danil Golovkin’s work; the captivating part of his photos is not the fact that he used albino models, but rather it is his ability to allow the model to bring out the best in themselves. The photos are so serene and pure, and fairy like. In our world today, beauty seems to be a focus on certain physical characteristics rather than celebrating individuality. I think everyone should see themselves as art pieces that can be sculpted, rather than changing themselves into a perceived normality of what art is.
Many people utilize the creation of beauty to somehow change social values. But what people need to know is that there isn’t just ONE type of beauty in this world. Beauty should be multi-faceted, fun, and carefree. We need more confident and unique persons to offer their stance and perception on what beauty is to them.
In Asian culture, women are not taught to like their body, but rather women tend to measure “likes or dislikes” on whether or not men like it. The most important thing to ask yourself is, are you trying to portray an image that others will accept, or are you truly presenting an image that you yourself want to be?
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What is the meaning behind your song “Rose-Colored You”? Does it have any relation to our topic “out of focus”?
In my songs I don’t really like to “preserve innocence” or talk about some sort of imaginary purity. Every song is a portrayal of a woman’s consciousness and expresses what they feel and want to express. Every song is also quite ambiguous in that it can have double meaning; it can be about love, family relationships, competitor relationships, social criticisms, or social values. Every song can have multiple interpretations. “Rose-Colored You” is actually inspired by Ying-Ning Wu and her involvement with the Taiwan Rural Front. I was very curious as to why Wu would drop everything as a writer, and go and protest on behalf of farmers on agricultural issues. What is going on in our society that motivates people to become this philanthropist or activist? Taiwan is already a well-developed country, however we all can’t seem to just do our day jobs, but rather feel the duty to stop certain things from happening in our society.
Most people think that social movements are the responsibility of activists or philanthropists. Many people choose one side or the other because they themselves do not have an opinion or are not sure of whether their opinions are right or wrong. Everyone seems to have put on these same colored glasses and are looking at the world from the same angle, blocking out all the negative or sadly truthful things. “Rose-Colored You” is not praising such a behavior, but rather it has more of a derogatory meaning and is sarcastically saying that we should all put on the same colored glasses like clowns in a circus.
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Mission as a Singer? I didn’t really intend to make my role as a singer so serious and intense. I was influenced greatly by rock n’ roll music as a child and I’ve always liked raw and less regulated things. Keeping in mind the influence public figures have, I don’t really talk about what I like to buy, or what I admire. I rather use my position as a singer to talk about what’s important, and to help people understand the concepts I am trying to depict in my music. I hope it can really empower people. Many young people, when they listen to music, tend to feel inferior and envious of those who can say great things and do big things. I really believe that people shouldn’t be envious of others but rather cherish the time you have to experience life and to be true to who you are. When you’re young, you shouldn’t fill your life with other people’s stories, but rather work hard to create your own. I don’t think people should envy or admire me. I just wish that through my music I can accompany them on their journey to self discovery. I believe that those who can love themselves will know how to love others; those who treat themselves well will also know how to treat others with respect.
The re-focus of social values? Young people should really be equipped with the ability to independently think outside the box. All the information around us should be an exchange rather than a hypnotic influence on your own thoughts and perceptions. The truth needs to be discovered. To many young people, joining protests or rallies seems to just be a “cool” thing to do or a life experience. But when people ask you about the issues at hand, you really should know at least a bit about what’s going on. Young people have to ask the questions, not count on others to ask them for you. Curiosity feeds self-improvement; you don’t have to be afraid of not knowing a lot, as long as you are willing to know more, it’s all that matters.
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MAKING OF “ How do we Focus?”
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鏡頭的呼吸律動 攝影師專訪
余靜萍
後編
Breathing Rhythm of the Lens Interview with photographer Fisher Yu (cont’d)
上一期Abook採訪到了台灣最細膩感性的一雙眼睛 - 女攝影 師余靜萍，她談到了許多關於小時候學習攝影的過程與攝影 師累積厚度的方式，她關注於生活的點滴，一邊努力拍出與 眾不同的影像，並將生活中、工作中獲得的養分都注入她的 作品中。這一期Abook更深入的與余靜萍討論關於影像創作 的一些事。
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常被覺得攝影作品很日系？
我想，我對人的感情是比較細膩去對待的， 無論是呼吸的節奏，對人物的喜好表現等 等，那些感情可能會讓人聯想到日本的細膩 風格。吸引我的東西都是很自然的，所以我 不太喜歡刻意去打燈、很喜歡自然光，這
想寫自己的劇本？
應該是看了許多日本電影，被裡面的畫面與 感情打動，我非常喜歡岩井俊二處理畫面的
當然想要寫自己的劇本。
手法，當然所謂「日本風格」也是有各式各
在拍攝電影過程中感受到的事情，會讓我想要對電影有點貢
樣的，像荒木經惟也是很經典的一種日本風
獻，平時工作上商業的東西比較多，我想，如果身為一個有點
格，他的取材和我一樣是來自生活，只是他
影響力的人，應該要創作更多有意義的影像。我很喜歡電影「
的生活比我誇張很多。
潛水鐘與蝴蝶」，它用了很溫柔的方式來敘事，告訴人應該要 更珍惜身邊的一切，有時候一個變化就什麼都沒有了。台灣的
說到處理細膩的感情，我幫電影「花吃了那
社會漸漸變得膚淺，大家要的東西似乎都很表面、很安全，電
女孩」裡幾個女生角色拍的獨照，自己非常
影題材取向只求票房，沒有深刻的故事內容，這其實是很有隱
喜歡，每個女生的不同特質都有被表現出
憂的。如果我們只是追求輕輕鬆鬆的題材，不想有壓力，是不
來，我覺得在那個主題之下，我比蜷川實花
會出現有意義的作品的。
拍得好（笑）。忠實表現自己想要的，這是 攝影最好玩的地方，通常我們不會因為模仿
以商業攝影師而言，我們的職業太過於包裝，有時應該要盡一
了某個大師的作品而開心，而會因為拍了自
點社會義務，比如說看了電影「艋舺」，雖然劇情裡有打打殺
己想表現的而開心。
殺，現在的小朋友並不會真的無法分辨是非，去摹仿劇情， 電影裡深刻的友情與關於台灣歷史的部份，反而會讓人留下深
“通常我們不會因為模仿 了某個大師的作品而開
刻印象。小時候看了一些法國電影，裡面有打鬥搶劫的劇情， 當時也不覺得要去摹仿才帥，只覺得那是一種影像或是情感的 力量，以前看「牯嶺街少年殺人事件」，也是覺得很震撼，殺
心，而會因為拍了自己想
人的劇情只不過是一個點題的橋段。或許現代人的溝通表達有
表現的而開心”
點問題，所以接收的人也看不出深遠的感情、看不到真正的重 點，我們應該要把以前感動我們的東西，消化過後，再拿出來 作讓人感動的事。
“或許現代人的溝通表達有點問題， 所以接收的人也看不出深遠的感情、 看不到真正的重點，我們應該要把以 前感動我們的東西，消化過後，再拿 出來作讓人感動的事。”
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創作過程中會不會擔心被搾乾？
當然也是會有想不出東西的時候。 雖然工作了這麼多年，每次工作都還是很擔 心、很緊張，會希望工作的時候有哪個工作 人員剛好肚子痛，就不用拍了！（笑）曾經 我和一個非常資深的造型師一起工作，他總 是老神在在，看起來很穩、一派輕鬆的樣 子，一問之下，纔知道他其實也會緊張。戰 戰兢兢或許是一件好事，讓自己更謹慎，也 會花比較多心思去討論和溝通。
女生當攝影師有沒有什麼不方便的地方？
攝影其實是非常適合女生的工作，現在的器材越來越輕了，好 像也沒什麼理由去說器材太重，即使是拍動態，器材也只是扛 個三分鐘，剩下的時間都是助理在扛，所以想一想其實也還 好，有些運鏡上可能會比較花體力，但是男生也會有累的時候 啊！
對技術上的東西，女生不會比男生差，只看肯不肯學，而且在 指導模特兒上，男攝影師要去跟女模特兒說要如何擺姿勢，其
喜歡的攝影師作品？
實比較難，女生來當攝影師在這點上比較不會尷尬。另外在全 都是男生的工作場合裡，比如說拍片，女生好像比較容易跟人
攝影師張照堂的作品，集溫暖與暴力、劇場
群互動。
感，構圖非常有張力，把人文拍得很時尚， 和布列松的「瞬間」不一樣，但他們對攝影 都很有自己的見解。看張照堂的作品是舒服 的，他用Olympas 72格的相機（也稱半格 機）拍工作照，所以我也買了一臺，大家後 來也都變得很喜歡這台相機。
動態攝影師畢竟在一部片裡，是處在很重要的判斷地位，所以 女攝影師有時候也比較難取得導演的信任，女生比較容易優柔 寡斷，要控制這麼多人的團隊，技術面比較容易被質疑，不過 女生的細心程度絕對是可以的，所以女生要堅強一點，明白表 達自己的想法。反過來說，男攝影師有時候也要像女生一點， 更細心一些。
“攝影其實是非常適合女生的工作， 女生的細心程度絕對是可以的，所 以要堅強一點，明白表達自己的想 法。”
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拍片時都拍「動」的鏡頭？
比起定著的鏡頭，我拍了很多「動」的鏡 頭，這有時是跟導演討論的結果，有時候是 覺得自己手持會比定鏡來得有味道。我覺得 看東西都是有一個呼吸感的，也是從日本導 演岩井俊二的影像風格學到的，他有一部片 叫做「煙花」，其中一場戲是小男生們在講 自己的志願，因為片中的小男生太興奮了， 所以鏡頭好像也很興奮跟著一起動，是一個 情緒上很興奮的狀態，而不是為了動而動。 手持運鏡是一種呼吸，是一個鏡頭的韻味， 像賓哥（電影攝影師李屏賓）的dolly（推車 載攝影機，運鏡的一種）可以看到流動，運 鏡的用法只要認真想過就會有其道理，當我 懂我為什麼要手持的時候，影像的韻味就會 跑出來。
“手持運鏡是一種呼吸， 是一個鏡頭的韻味，當 我懂我為什麼要手持的 時候，影像的韻味就會 跑出來。”
如何把自己培養成專業攝影師，而不只是拿著相機 到處跑的人？
知道自己要什麼很重要。 如果發現自己眼高手低，找了很多資料卻執行不了、控制不了 光，這時要下一個判斷是很難的，一定要想清楚自己想拍的東 西，把最單純的東西執行好，不要三心二意，要慢慢把眼高手 低的狀態抓回來。
把工作上的器材需要變得純粹，雖然心裡還是想要很多昂貴的 器材，但是目前工作上如果不會用到，就不需要那麼多。如果 遇到一個合作對象是有機會發揮的，就要好好去把握，要慢慢 累積信心，就可以漸漸掌握，慢慢找到自己的價值，就會懂得 去判斷一些困難的事。
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Your work seems very
Do you Want to write your own movie
‘Japanese-inspired’?
script?
I believe I pay a lot of detailed attention to
Ofcourse I would like to write my own script. The emotions I feel
people’s emotions, from the rhythm of each
when I’m on a movie set makes me want to contribute something
breath to the portrayal of different charac-
of my own to the industry. Usually my work is for more commer-
ters, which may lead people to automatically
cial projects. I believe in order to become an influential person, I
think of the Japanese way of paying attention
must create more meaningful images. I really liked the film “The
to detail. What attracts me are things that are
Diving Bell And The Butterfly”. It utilized a lot of delicate meth-
very natural, therefore I don’t like to deliber-
ods of narration, telling us to value the things around us because
ately set up a specific lighting environment.
we may lose it all in an instant. Taiwanese society has become very
I like natural lighting, which may be because
shallow and the things people now want are very superficial and
I watch a lot of Japanese movies. I’ve been
safe. Movie subjects are geared toward ones that will sell box of-
touched many times by the images and emo-
fice tickets, so story content has become less profound, which is
tions in the films. I adore the way Shunji Iwai
something we should be worried about. If we are merely chasing
plays with different imagery. Ofcourse, the
after simple subject-matter, we will not see any meaningful work.
supposed ‘Japanese style’ has different varieties. Nobuyoshi Araki utilizes a very classic
As a commercial photographer myself, I believe our industry is
Japanese style of photography. Like me, he
overly artificial. From time-to-time we must contribute to social
uses subjects out of every-day-life, however
goodness. For example, even though the movie “Monga” was quite
his portrayals are much more dramatic.
violent, I believe children nowadays are able to tell the difference between right and wrong and would not go an imitate the scenes
On the topic of delicate emotions, while on
in the movie. Instead, I believe the movie is able to touch the
set in the film “Candy Rain” I took time to
hearts of people through the portrayal of friendship and the infer-
take individual photos for the female charac-
ences to Taiwanese history. I watched some violent French movies
ters in the film. I am really proud of the pho-
when I was younger but didn’t feel like I needed to be violent or
tos because the different personalities of the
rob a bank to be cool, but instead I was deeply affected by the
girls were rightfully portrayed. I think I did a
powerful emotions and images from the film. When I watched “A
better job for that film than Mika Ninagawa
Brighter Summer Day” I was pretty shocked, but the killing was
did (laugh). Staying true to what you want is
just a small part of the entire plot.
the most enjoyable part of photography.
Perhaps people now have problems with communication and exWe usually aren’t happy with imitating an-
pression, so the audience has difficulties seeing the real meaning
other artist’s work, but will be ecstatic when
behind the films. We should take what has touched us emotion-
we are able to photograph something in the
ally, digest it, and use it to do inspirational things.
way that we hoped to portray it.
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Which photographer’s work do you admire? Is there anything inconvenient Photographer Chang Chao-Tang’s work. His photographs
about being a female photographer?
combine warmth and violence, theatricality, and intense compositions to showcase subjects in a very fashionable way.
Photography is really suitable for females! Equipment
It’s different from Bresson’s idea of ‘the decisive moment’,
is no longer very heavy, there should be no excuses.
but both photographers have their own views on what pho-
Even for action photography, you really only have to
tography is. It is very enjoyable to look at Chang’s work. He
carry the camera for about 3 minutes. The rest of the
uses the Olympus DP72 camera so I bought one too. Now
time a photography assistant will help you. So to think
everyone seems to like using it too.
about it, there isn’t really anything that’s inconvenient for a female photographer. Sometimes it can be tiring, but it goes the same for male photographers!
Regarding technicality, women are just as good as men. It really depends on whether or not you want to learn. When directing models, it is harder for a male photographer to direct a female model. It is much easier for a female photographer to do so. Also, in a male dominated working environment such as on a film set, women seem to socialize better with others.
An action photographer takes on a very important
During your creative process, do you
decision making role on a film set, therefore women
worry about running out of ideas?
photographers often finds it harder to gain the trust of a male film director. Women may be more hesitant
Ofcourse there are times when my mind goes blank.
when making certain decisions and her own technical
Although I’ve been working for so many years, I still get very
capabilities may be questioned.
worried and nervous everytime I work. I sometimes wished that a staff member would get a stomachache so that we wouldn’t
However, a woman’s attention to detail is a strength, so
have to continue shooting (laugh).
we should stand up for ourselves and speak our minds.
I once worked with a very experienced stylist who was very com-
On the other hand, male photographers should also
posed and seemed very relaxed. After asking him I found out
learn from their female counterparts and be more at-
that he would also get very nervous when he’s working. The feel-
tentive.
ing of nervousness may be a good thing, it allows one to be more cautious and will force you to spend more effort when discussing and communicating about a project.
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Do you always take action shots on set? Compared to still shots, I photograph a lot of áction’shots. Sometimes this is the result of discussing with the director, sometimes it is because I feel that holding the camera in my hand will result in better pictures. I believe that you must make the camera ‘breathe’. I leanred this from Japanese director Shunji Iwai’s film 「Fireworks, Should We See it From The Side or the Bottom」. There’s a
How do you train yourself to become a
scene in the film where a bunch of boys are
professional photographer instead of
talking about their aspirations. The boys be-
just merely a person running around
come really excited and the camera seems to
with a camera?
become excited with them and starts to move around. The camera moves to portray the ex-
Knowing what you want is very important.
citement. Hand-held camera work is a way of
If you try to accomplish more than you can handle, such as
letting the lens ‘breathe’. Like film photogra-
finding a lot of research material but not being able to ex-
pher Li Pin Bing’s use of the dolly. You can see
ecute properly, or not being able to control the lighting, you
the movements flow.
will then find it hard to make a decision. You must think carefully what it is that you want to photograph. Take the
Once you give some serious thought to the
simple things and do it well. Don’t keep changing your
movements of the camera, it’ll all make sense.
mind. Don’t aim too high when you don’t have the right
If I understand why I must hand-hold the
abilities yet.
camera, the true essence of the images will come out.
Simplify your camera equipment even though you yearn for expensive ones. If you don’t need it at the moment then don’t acquire it. If you meet a partner that can allow you to be creative, then grab on and go for it. Confidence needs to be slowly accumulated and then you will finally be able to grasp and find your own value, which will allow you to make important decisions during difficult situations.
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聲 音 的 風 景 新銳藝術家
王仲堃
唯有在意識到聲音時， 聲音的存在才有了意義。
“Sound is given meaning only when it is noticed.”
王仲堃的作品在研究並發展關於「聲音」與「記憶」的連結，從中延伸一種觸發聲響 記憶的觀看經驗。「聲音的風景稱為音景、音樂的記號稱作樂譜。」他的作品直率的 顯露出機械性的構造，趨向於一種純粹的物理性和科技裝置的視覺表達。在作品展示 於空間的形式上則試圖喚起觀者對於聲音裝置的共鳴以及觸發觀者對於聲音記憶的觀 看體驗。
「另一種音景」聲音裝置作品，目的不在製造聲響，而是經營出了一個機制，一個觀 看聲響的機制，也就是希望透過觀看本身，喚醒觀者心中對於聲音的想像。王仲堃將 音樂記譜的符號轉化為空間中的動態雕塑，除了賦予其隨機移動的亂數規則，並將此 機制再轉化成數位的資訊記錄。
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WANG Chung-Kun WANG Chung-Kun’s work is focused on researching and developing the connection between “sounds” and “memories”; he hopes to bringforth and extend those images of which can be triggered with different sounds. The symbols of music are found in notes, yet the visual landscape of sound
Education
is found in what he calls soundscapes. His work straightforwardly displays the mechanical structure and pure physical
National Taipei University of The Arts
and technological elements of sound into a visually stimulat-
Fine Arts, 2000 - 2005
ing form of expression.
National Taipei University of The Arts
“ Another Soundscape” is the extension of his previous work
Media Art, 2005 - 2010
where he aims to transform musical notes into not just sound but a mechanism of which can awaken the listeners imagination.
Solo Exhibitions
Kaohsiung, TAIWAN
2013 Series of “Another Soundscape” Nou Gallery, Taipei
Wang Chung-Kun was born in Kaohsiung in
2010 “+ - * / Chung-Kun WANG Solo Exhibition”
1982 and is one of the rising stars of Media Art in
Digital Art Center, Taipei
Taiwan. Wang’s work has been in sound, sculpture, video, kinetic art and sound installation. Wang has
2006 “Skin”
created various forms of machinery that as viewers
TAG (TechArt Gallery), Taipei
approach will operate and make sounds on their own. These machines switch on and off, and seem to exhale or inhale, spin and twinkle on their own. Chung-Kun Wang now lives and works in Taipei.
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1.
3.
2.
1.另一種音景系列 - 4*7 Series of Another Soundscape - 4*7 / 纜線 電子裝置 纜車 cable、 electronic devices、cable car / 長240cm x 寬50cm x 高15cm / 王仲堃 WANG Chung-Kun/2013
2. 另一種音景系列 - 樂透 Series of Another Soundscape - Lotto/ 壓克力顏料、乳膠漆、畫布 Acrylic, latex paint on canvas / 依空間尺寸而定 / 王仲堃 WANG Chung-Kun/2013
3.另一種音景系列 - 譜 Series of Another Soundscape - Random Sheets / 印表機 紙printer、paper / 空間尺寸而定 / 王仲堃 WANG Chung-Kun / 2013
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台灣龐克精神 Taiwanese Punk Documentary video by Emily Doom
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對我而言，在美國的龐克文化，是被某一些標籤描述著的：無政府主義 者、女權主義者、非異性戀者等等。對我而言，反動與主流文化、政治的 對抗就像是一個存在已久的系統，而龐克也不只是一種穿著上的風格而 已。所以我想用這個短片，顯示台灣龐克文化的一些面貌。 The idea behind the video is to search for definitions of punk that go beyond fashion. To me, there is a system of beliefs and a sense of rebellion against mainstream culture and politics. Anarchist, feminist, queer—all of these labels describe different aspects of the punk scene in the US. My goal is to learn a little about punk in Taiwan. As an outsider I don’t intend to trivialize the subject and can no way sum it all up in two minutes. Rather, the video is a sketch of what I found at first glance.
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失焦是一種觀看的方式。 最近，這世界看待事情的方式，彷彿像是鏡頭失焦。 每天每天，我們取得大量的情報， 而對於真相，卻無法一眼看出清楚的輪廓，一切似乎都被偏頗且娛樂化的觀點支配著； 然後，便開始不確定，是自己的眼睛失了焦，還是那該被注意的事實自己模糊了焦點。 土耳其的暴動、日本反核、地球變化、整形風潮、社會事件、 八卦緋聞，我們該著眼的是哪些，不需要太過放大的是哪些？
一張失焦的照片，是唯美還是疏忽？ 一片失焦的記憶，是過程還是遺忘？
請就「失焦」一詞發想，發給我們你的文字、影像作品。
Distortion can be a point of view. Nowadays, the way in which the world perceives itself is as if the lens is out of focus. Each and every day we are bombarded with information, yet the truth of it all is often hidden behind social bias and media agendas. Many of us are becoming unsure of the messages we are receiving. Is it our eyes that are blurred, or is it the message that is innately out of focus? The Turkish uprisings, Japan’s anti-nuclear protests, global warming, plastic surgery fads, social issues,celebritism and tabloids…what are our priorities? What should be spotlighted and what shouldn’t be? A picture out of focus….is it creativity or carelessness? A memory forgotten…is it natural or deliberate? Out of focus can be an idea.
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Abby Gong 精神病，或稱做精神疾病、心理疾病、情緒障礙 認知功能障礙，主要是一組以表現在行為 心理活動上的紊亂為主的神經系統疾病
人使用神經病一詞來表達對他人的鄙視、排斥、憎恨 羞愧，及這個名詞隱含著對精神病患的偏見、禁忌 不公平和不合理的待遇
許多人對精神疾病存有錯誤的認知 一般人也很害怕自己患有精神相關疾病 有時是病人本身不肯承認罹患了這疾病 而精神病也作為一種侮蔑性用語存在 到底是從什麼時候開始，精神疾病變得如此特殊及情緒化
而關於她 只是和我們多了點不一樣
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郭潔渝 Criscent Guo 三島由紀夫的憂國，片頭寫著”至誠”兩字。 我轉頭看著這些花， 大膽的露出雄蕊，比新鮮時更裸露，花粉沾黏各處， 沉重的至誠讓開腸剖肚都追隨不及， 只有垂死裸露的子房足以表示。 驕傲地盛開，性感地死去，把水都染紅。
可惜黏稠物質漂浮浸閉雙眼，不再看清。
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Kai 這些失焦的照片是失控的，和人生很像， 不是嗎？
記憶是不老實的，不一定能確切描述所有畫 面的細節，但不會遺忘的那些瞬間，知道當 下的自己是幸福的嗎？
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CLAUDIO PARENTELA
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