PATTERN Magazine, Spring 2023, Vol. 23 by PATTERN Magazine

VOLUME 23

WE HELP PEOPLE CREATE.

FoOD + FEATURING NEAL BROWN, ASHLEY BROOKS, SENATOR ANDREA HUNLEY, ABBI MERRISS, CHEF OYA, AND OTHERS

SPRING 2023

LEADED + UNLEADED DRINKS AVAILABLE FILL YOUR TANK AT THESTUTZ.COM

EDITOR’S LETTER

SAVORING THE ART AND CULTURE OF INDY’S EXCELLENT FOOD SCENE WHEN MY HUSBAND AND I SAID GOODBYE TO THE WINDY CITY and hello to Indianapolis back in ‘99, we had no idea what the food scene would be like in our new home. Turns out that, at the time, there were only two sushi restaurants in the entire city—Sakura on Keystone and Ginza on 38th Street. BUT FATE HAD A FUNNY WAY OF BRINGING US TO OUR NEW HOME just north of 38th Street on Kessler Boulevard West. Don’t get me wrong, we were smitten with the charming brick and the wooded lot, but having a sushi spot within a five minute drive was what really sealed the deal. AS SOMEONE WHO’S BEEN LUCKY ENOUGH TO ENJOY DINING ON SEVERAL continents, I’ve been thrilled to witness the evolution of Indy’s food scene over the years. The steady growth of options, both in terms of cuisine and the spaces in which we can indulge, has been nothing short of remarkable. AND YET, I CAN’T HELP BUT DREAM OF A DAY WHEN IT FEELS LIKE EVEN IF I eat out every day of the week, I’ll never run out of new spots to try. Here’s hoping that day is just around the corner! IN THE MEANTIME, WELCOME TO OUR LATEST ISSUE, WHICH IS ALL ABOUT FOOD, YES—THE LOOK, the taste, the people behind the plates hitting tables across Central Indiana. You might be wondering: “What’s this about food? Isn’t PATTERN supposed to be a fashion magazine?” You wouldn’t be the first person to ask, and it’s on us for not being clearer about what we’re up to. PATTERN STARTED OUT AS A GROUP OF LOCAL FASHION DESIGNERS LOOKING TO GROW THE INDUSTRY and our first few issues were our attempt at a fashion publication. It didn’t take us long to see the bigger picture though: the creative economy. Fashion is a piece of it, for sure, but we can’t help but be curious about the rest of it. OUR COMMUNITY IS ALL ABOUT CULTURE, ART, AND THE CREATIVE LIFESTYLE, AND THAT’S WHY WE’RE excited to capture the stylishness of drive-thru fries and scoops of caviar. Perhaps you think our indie food scene may be relatively small, but we’re here to tell you it’s mighty. And we Hoosiers sure do love our shared meals and dining experiences. EATING TOGETHER IS A WAY TO ENGAGE WITH EACH OTHER AND THE COMMUNITY, AND IT CAN EVEN POINT the way to how we engage with arts and culture. Think about it: when you go to a restaurant, there’s someone to greet you, guide you through the menu, and explain the specials. But when it comes to art, culture, music, or fashion, it’s not always as easy to find that guidance and support. Today, we’re here to give you a sample of what our city has to offer and to inspire you to see the arts and culture around you with new eyes and new possibilities. SO, WHETHER YOUR TASTE IS FOR FINE DINING, FAST FOOD, FASHION, MUSIC, ART, OR JUST A GOOD STORY, we’ve got something for you. Thanks for reading and supporting our mission to showcase the best of the creative economy in our city. Cheers,

POLINA OSHEROV EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

PATTERN VOLUME NO. 23

WE HELP PEOPLE CREATE.

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EDITORIAL

Editor & Creative Director Polina Osherov Design Director Emeritus Kathy Davis Design Director Lindsay Hadley Managing Editors Cory Cathcart Katie Freeman Copy Editors Anne Laker Jenny Walton

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PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jennifer Wilson-Bibbs Esther Boston Jay Goldz Mikaela Helane Clint Kearney Alesha McCarty Matt Nowlin Jes Nijjer Polina Osherov Dave Pluimer Leo Soyfer Christopher Whonsetler

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Cory Cathcart Katie Freeman Jolene Ketzenberger Anne Laker Amy Lynch Lavanya Narayanan Polina Osherov Jennifer Rubenstein Phillip Starks Jenny Walton Neal Warner

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PATTERN VOLUME NO. 23

CONTENTS PATTERN ISSUE NO. 23 patternindy.com

WORDS

EDITOR’S LETTER, 2 CONTRIBUTORS, 8 Q+A SAL FERNANDEZ, 20 “WE’RE HIRING SERVERS AT ST. ELMO,” 22 STATE SENATOR OF GRACE, ANDREA HUNLEY, 28 FROM JAMES BEARD TO RETRO BURGERS, NEAL BROWN, 48 ASK THE CHEF, 52 CHEF AARON BUTTS, 54 CHEF OYA WOODRUFF, 56 CHEF CHRIS ELEY, 58 CHEF ABBI MERRISS, 59 CHEF CLARISSA MORLEY, 60 CHEF STEVEN OAKLEY, 62 CHEF CINDY HAWKINS, 63 CHEF PEN PHOJANASUPAN, 64 Q+A BERK VISUAL AND VICTOR GHABEN, WORLD FAMOUS HOTBOYS, 66 A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME, ASHLEY BROOKS, 76 THE DISH OF A LIFETIME, 88 SOWING SEEDS OF CHANGE, 100 SOUL FOOD PROJECT, 102 JASON MICHAEL THOMAS, 104 WISE WOMEN OF FOOD JUSTICE, 106 THE JOY OF OYSTERS, 118 OP-ED, 138

IMAGES

MIDNIGHT SNACKS, 10 ALL IN GOOD TASTE, 36 THE GREAT FRY OFF, 42 BLOOM AND BEAUTY, 70 NAILED IT, 80 HOLE IN THE WALL, 92 PLAY WITH YOUR FOOD, 110 A FEAST FOR THE EYES, 126 ON THE COVER Photograph by Christopher Whonsetler Food styled by Ashley Brooks Production Assistant Katie Freeman

ON THIS PAGE Ashley Brooks Photograph by Christopher Whonsetler Production Assistant Katie Freeman

COOKING IS GOOD FOR THE SOUL

M Y K B D H O M E .CO M 1001 East 86th Street, Indianapolis, IN 46240 3 17.81 5.8 8 8 0 Home of K ITC H E N S BY D E S I G N / K B D H O M E / CU S TO M D R A P E RY / T H E P L AY FU L S O U L

CONTRIBUTORS

MIKAELA HELANE Everyone always asks what animal you are. I feel seen, finally, being asked what food I am—I’ve had this answer prepared in my back pocket for years now. James Kennedy from Vanderpump Rules says, “It’s not about the pasta!” For me it really is about the pasta. If I could eat pasta for every single meal, I would. My go-to pastas are cajun chicken pasta, buttery noodles, and penne alla vodka. If I had to choose just one? I’d be cajun pasta all the way!

LAVANYA NARAYANAN AMY LYNCH If I were a meal, I think I’d be pretty well-rounded. Maybe a colorful salad or steamed vegetable to start, a glass of wine, a big bowl of pasta and some freshly baked bread—all served family-style to share with loved ones around the table. Approachable and healthy, but warm and comforting.

Amy Lynch is an Indianapolisbased freelance writer specializing in Midwestern food and travel. She enjoys road trips with her teenage son, bourbon, books, live music, and breakfast all day. amylynch.wordpress.com/ mostlymidwestern

If I was a meal, I’d be a perfect slice of New York pizza. Balanced and sinful, it never disappoints. It fits everywhere—lazy, hangover breakfast, or a late-night meal, and is always a welcome addition to the party.

Lavanya Narayanan is a journalist for the Food Network. Originally from Indianapolis and a Chennaite at heart, she currently lives in New York to immerse herself in the worlds of food, fashion, and cultural diversity. A musician and model by passion, she strives to tell stories of those unheard of and challenge readers with new ideas and thoughts. lavipop94

NINA GRAULEY Eggplant pizza. My mom and I have spent years tweaking our perfect recipe together and it has given me some of my favorite memories.

Nina Grauley is a science illustrator, artist, and enthusiastic amateur naturalist. Nina believes that paying attention to the particularities of a community—whether it is made up of plants or people— is an act of love. She has a researcher’s heart and loves exploring the world and asking questions. Her work centers around the idea that looking closely at nature can teach us more about what it means to be human and how we can begin the process of healing together. ninagrauley.com paramecium_art

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Mikaela Helane is an Indianapolis and Chicago-based fashion photographer. She primarily does editorial and commercial work, but dabbles in most genres of photography in her free time. She is a recent Columbia College Chicago graduate, where she studied fashion photography and journalism. When she’s not out shooting or at work, she is usually found at home watching reality tv, crime thrillers, or k-dramas. mikaelahelane.com mikaelahelane

E R E W U O Y IF

JOLENE KETZENBERGER JES NIJJER Something you’d share with friends or family with a loud conversation! Like Indian food— a few flavorful appetizers, a few bright entrees. Mangoes would be involved. Endless buttery naan.

Jes Nijjer, owner and principal photographer of Pretty Not Bad Visual Studio, began working in photography in 2016. Over the last seven years she has photographed hundreds of headshots, businesses, and products. Her work maintains an emphasis on utilizing natural light and natural form. She has called Indianapolis home for sixteen years. jesnijjer.com jeskeepswimming

NOAH GREGG If I were a meal, I’d probably just be a loaf of sourdough that’s slathered in butter. A little tangy, but filling and comfortable. Then add on a dozen oysters to keep things nice and fresh.

Noah Gregg is an avid espresso lover and a collector of the finest tattoos. He’s currently an ACD at Element Three and loves hanging with his wife, Sarah, and daughters Norah and Scarlett. elementthree.com/team/ noah-gregg/

If I were a meal, I’d be chicken and dumplings: warm, comforting and accessible, but a little surprising as well. Something magical happens when you drop dumpling batter into simmering broth and put on the lid. The batter puffs up into light, bready pillows, soft but substantial with lots of flavor. It gives you the chance to think about all the different kinds of dumplings—dropped, rolled, filled—and consider how alike we all are and how we can understand each other through food.

Jolene Ketzenberger is a food writer and consultant who reports on local restaurant news for the Indy Now morning show on Fox59. She has written for numerous local publications and her work has appeared in newspapers across the country as well as on such sites as Thrillist.com and FoodNetwork. com. She is the co-author of Café Indiana Cookbook, co-founder of Fishers Test Kitchen restaurant accelerator, and she developed and launched food tours along the Indianapolis Cultural Trail. A longtime advocate for independent restaurants, she works with Culinary Crossroads, an organization that spotlights the Indiana culinary community.

PHILLIP STARKS If I were to be a meal, I would be a dessert. Maye a hot fudge sundae. Lots of chocolate and sweetness!

Phillip Starks has built a career in making people smile and laugh. For sure, he’s the life of the party and there’s never a dull moment when you’re in his presence. For nearly twenty years, Phillip has evolved into one of the most sought-after hospitality and restaurant professionals. He has worked at the finest establishments and currently at the world famous, St. Elmo Steak House. Now, he can add author to his repertoire. Already, book number two is in the making. Phillip lives in Indianapolis with his childhood friend and wife, Nicole, and their fur-children, Ruby and Coco. nappyphil

A MEAL, WHAT WOULD Y OU BE AND WHY? jolene.ketzenberger

Midnight Snacks Serving size 5 spreads Servings per issue 1 Chutzpah Sparkle/shine

100%*

86%*

% Daily Value*

Photography by

Polina Osherov

Assisted by

Mikaela Helane

Assisted by

Leo Soyfer

Styled by

Assisted by

Katie Freeman Emily Coy Joey R.

Model

Heyman Talent and 10 MGMT Hair by

Suzy Grifa

Makeup by

Chie Sharp

Location

Irvington Retro Villa

Thanks to Ripley Auctions and Corporate, Inc. and Irvington Retro Villa, IG @irvingtonretro

EARRINGS VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS TOP URBAN OUTFITTERS BODY CHAIN URBAN OUTFITTERS PANTS JADED LONDON SHOES CORPORATE

SWEATER JADED LONDON BIKINI JADED LONDON SKIRT JADED LONDON GLOVES DYSPNEA RINGS STYLIST OWNED SOCKS LOS ANGELES APPAREL SHOES CORPORATE

HAIR PINS STYLIST OWNED NECKLACE VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS BIKINI SEAQUEEN SWIM JACKET SKIES ARE BLUE JEANS I.AM.GIA RINGS STYLIST OWNED

EARRINGS VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS RINGS VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS DRESS NASTY GAL JACKET BERSHKA

HAIR PINS STYLIST OWNED NECKLACE VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS RINGS STYLIST OWNED DRESS ASOS DESIGN

HAIR PINS STYLIST OWNED TOP NASTY GAL JEANS URBAN OUTFITTERS SHOES CORPORATE EARRINGS VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS BRACELET VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS RINGS STYLIST OWNED

HAIR PINS STYLIST OWNED JACKET URBAN OUTFITTERS TOP SUPERDOWN JEANS THE RAGGED PRIEST NECKLACE VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS RINGS STYLIST OWNED BELLY CHAIN VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS

HAIR PINS STYLIST OWNED SUNGLASSES PITAYA NECKLACE VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS BRACELET VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS STAR CHAIN BRANDY MELVILLE EARRINGS VINTAGE, RIPLEY AUCTIONS VEST MODEL OWNED PANTS NASTY GAL SHOES CORPORATE

SAL FERNANDEZ. CHEF. VISIONARY. COMMUNITY LEADER. WORDS BY CORY CATHCART PHOTOGRAPH BY LEO SOYFER Chef Sal Fernandez grew up in Napa, California—a place full of culinary delights and collaborative concepts. After studying French cuisine at The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and cooking in kitchens around the country, he took an offer based in Greencastle, Indiana in 2017. What would become Bridges Craft Pizza and Wine Bar was available real estate next door to Music on the Square, a community music space hosted by the DePauw School of Music. The owners of Music on the Square, Joyce and the late Judson Green, wanted to use food to continue fostering community with their ventures. Fernandez led the opening of Bridges, and later Taphouse Burgers, Umami, and the commercial bakery BreadWorks. Fernandez makes high quality dishes approachable through his use of Latin roots and sense of simplicity—and is changing the culinary landscape of Greencastle in the process. CORY CATHCART: What would you say surprised you the most about Indiana after moving here? SAL FERNANDEZ: The biggest surprise was the quality of produce and meat. Living in California, especially in Napa where it’s such a big foodie town, it’s common to think, “We have the best food.” But I would put produce and farmers in Indiana against anybody in the country. They’re amongst the best—if not the best—in some categories. I feel like there should be more recognition of how good products in Indiana are. CC: The Bridges concept came from an idea to bridge music, food, and community. Tell me about that concept. SF: There was a big separation between the community and the university. We wanted to bridge the community, the university, music, and food. That’s how the name Bridges came along. At first, this was going to be a simple wine bar. They hired a consultant to find someone to take the lead. I think he offered it to a lot of people, and everyone was like, “I’m not moving to

Indiana.” I said I would do it. I thought I could make my mark here. Not a lot of people can go to a small town like this and make a big difference. CC: How does music play into the restaurant now? SF: We do a music series where we bring in an artist every few months. The barn doors in the dining area open up to the music hall in Music on the Square. Yo-Yo Ma opened this building with us. He’s a good friend of the owners, and he’s been here and done concerts. You never realize something could be that beautiful until you listen to him play. I wasn’t into music like that until I heard him. CC: What is the working environment like here at Bridges? SF: A lot of my managers now were fifteen or sixteen years old when they started with me. They had no food experience. I mean, they didn’t know how to make an egg. There’s something special about showing them something they can be passionate about and seeing them grow. We have 140 employees now. When we first started there were sixteen of us. The industry is changing. When I was learning, the environment was very militaristic. It was very rigid and strict. At first, my approach was sort of like that here. When you’re younger you think you have to be hard, because people will work better. As you grow and mature, you get a lot more out of telling people, “Hey, you did a good job.” CC: What’s your best advice for home cooking? SF: Find simple recipes with simple, good quality ingredients. Learn to do them well by doing it over and over. Sometimes we’ll run a recipe twenty times, and still not be happy with it and we’re professionals. Use

your instincts. Just because a recipe says one thing doesn’t mean you have to do it. Use your instincts and use good ingredients and you’re pretty much always going to make something good. Also, try a lot of different foods. Variety will teach you a lot. A lot of my dishes here are Latin-inspired turned into Italian dishes. CC: Tell me more about how you’ve incorporated Latin cooking into an Italian concept. SF: I grew up in all French restaurants. The CIA is a French school. I was a French chef and I didn’t embrace my Latin heritage as much because of that. I took the Bridges job and embraced it, and ended up falling in love with Italian cooking. I had the challenge of presenting good Italian food to a town that wasn’t used to that. How was I supposed to approach that? You can either be annoyed or you can help get their palates developed. The big dish that did that was the beef tongue ravioli. I always had beef tongue tacos in California. I braised the beef tongue the same way and for the ravioli, I used masa dough that you would use for tortillas instead of pasta dough. I stuffed it with beef tongue. I fried the ravioli and then I put it over a roasted pepper puree. Then I topped it with a lemon crema. I called it fried ravioli instead of beef tongue ravioli. People loved it. After that, I realized I could use my roots in this food. CC: Describe your food thesis. SF: As I get older it changes a lot. In the beginning of my career, I was very into molecular gastronomy. Eventually I realized simplicity is the key. The best chefs of all time make simple food. I believe that five to six ingredients, or less, are what makes a great dish. Making something simple where every component has been sought out with the best ingredients, that’s hard to pull off. ✂

“WE’RE HIRING SERVERS AT ST. ELMO.” THOSE SIX WORDS TOLD TO ME BY OWNER, CRAIG HUSE, CHANGED MY LIFE FOREVER. WORDS BY PHILLIP STARKS PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF ST. ELMO STEAK HOUSE

I STARTED WORKING AT ST. ELMO STEAK HOUSE IN JANUARY OF 2016. Since then, my time there has been a whirlwind of making new friends, welcoming amazing guests, meeting celebrities and receiving unbelievable opportunities. In order to fully understand what St. Elmo is, you must know the heart of St. Elmo. It’s more than a steak and the world-famous shrimp cocktail. It’s an institution. Established in 1902 by Joe Stahr, St. Elmo the Joe’s Tavern, predates many of the major world events and inventions that took place in the twentieth century. The Model T, cake mix, the Tommy Gun, the crossword puzzle, and the theory of relativity by Einstein all came after Stahr opened his doors for business. Citizens celebrated at St. Elmo’s bar at the end of World War I, and soldiers were offered breakfast as they passed through Indianapolis during World War II. Over the past 121 years, St. Elmo has been a host to many business deals that have not only transformed the city of Indianapolis, but I’m sure the world. I know, because I’ve seen it happen. When I walked through the doors of St. Elmo for the first time, I was a mixed bag of emotions. I remember walking into the greatest opportunity of my service industry career. Was I good enough to be there? Will they see something that I don’t and tell me not to come back? All of those fears were squashed when I was introduced to the legendary Lorenzo Acuna, a St. Elmo veteran for nearly four decades. “Legend” is a term we don’t use lightly and regard very highly around here—we even recently changed the name to one of our dining rooms from The Card Room to The Legends Room, in honor of all of the stewards who have worked at St. Elmo, or any of the Huse Culinary locations, for thirty years or more. Handpainted portraits of those stewards are hung on the walls of The Legends Room. And Lorenzo is one of them—because he was an absolute legend at St. Elmo.

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Lorenzo started at St. Elmo in 1976, so at the time I met him, he had forty years under his belt. Known all over the city as the greatest, he amazed guests by serving them with style and unique humor. He was my hero. I wanted to be him. I wanted guests to come in and look for me so I could dazzle them with my quick wit and charm, like they came in to look for Lorenzo. When I first met Lorenzo, he immediately sensed my panic. His words were few. “Felipe, don’t sweat the small stuff.” And from that moment on, I was ready. A lot changes in 121 years, and St. Elmo has certainly seen the world change in its 121 years. I can’t help but think about what it was like for African Americans at the turn of the century. In many restaurants across the country, Black Americans weren’t allowed to eat nor work in the same restaurants as their white fellow Americans. But since 1902, things have changed. Today, St. Elmo proudly serves and employs all. Kerry Wafford and Jeremy Holmes, both people of color, have prominent roles of leadership at the restaurant. Kerry is our Front of House Manager and Bourbon Expert; while Jeremy has been the Executive Chef, delighting the palates of so many people, for over twenty years. Combined, the two of them share over sixty years of experience with St. Elmo. As an African American working in one of America’s greatest steakhouses, I like to think that we have continued part of the history and lure that is St. Elmo Steak House. Will we be discussed in fifty years about our part at St Elmo? I sure hope so.

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I’ve seen more in this restaurant than many will see in a lifetime. I recall watching Hall and Oates search for their picture in The New York Room. In that same room on a different day, the “aaayyys” filled the room when Henry Winkler got up to use the restroom. I’m often asked who my favorite celebrity is, or who’s the most famous person I’ve met. That’s a relative question. I’ve seen so many people and there are different levels of fame. But I will have to say, the one “celebrity” who has had the biggest impact on me was Clint Hill—Jackie Kennedy’s secret service agent. One night, he was just leaning on the wall while I passed by with a bowl of navy bean soup. I risked it all to shake his hand. I knew history was standing right in front of me. Sure, I’ve rubbed shoulders with some of the world’s most famous people and I’ve seen major business deals inked before my eyes. But more than the celebrities and deals I see at St. Elmo, I really find pride in my everyday work to make my guests feel special and enjoy their time in the present. It’s the guests who come back every year and ask for my section that really matter to me. Or even the ones that I took care of four years prior, but still remember the fun we had when they were last here. I enjoy the hugs from the grandmas, moms, or even the dads in gratitude for the experience they received. I also find joy (and a bit of humor) in the “Hey, Phillip, what’s your Instagram? I want to stay in touch.” But I’ll have to say my favorite part of working at St. Elmo is when the average, everyday guest tells me, “Phillip, that was the best dining experience that I’ve ever had…and you’re the reason why.” As a service professional, those are the words that I long to hear. I always think to myself, “You did it. You gave someone an experience that they will never forget.” It’s the connections that I’ve made with guests that make this job the best I’ve ever had. St. Elmo has given me the tools to provide for the guests I serve. In return, I give St. Elmo the best version of myself I can. And with this trade off, we’ve done our job. ✂

FROM PRINCIPAL TO POLITICIAN: ANDREA HUNLEY BRINGS A FRESH PERSPECTIVE TO INDIANAPOLIS’ CREATIVE ECONOMY

WORDS BY POLINA OSHEROV PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAY GOLDZ STYLED BY LAURA WALTERS FOR STYLERIOT HAIR BY CANDIS TAYLOR FOR TAYLOR’S HAIR STUDIO MAKEUP BY JACANDA GLENN FOR A CONSCIOUS BEAUTE

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DRESS A.W.A.K.E MODE WHITE BOOTS TORY BURCH EARRINGS COLLECTION OF KATIE CLEMENTS

TOP A.W.A.K.E MODE TROUSERS ALICE AND OLIVIA SNEAKERS ADIDAS EARRINGS COLLECTION OF KATIE CLEMENTS

A FORMER SCHOOL PRINCIPAL AND NOW A NEWLY ELECTED SENATOR FOR THE STATE OF INDIANA, HUNLEY IS ONE OF THE FEW WOMEN OF COLOR IN THE STATE'S POLITICAL SPHERE. HUNLEY IS ALSO AN AVID LOVER OF FOOD, ART, AND CULTURE, WITH A PARTICULAR PASSION FOR THE CREATIVE ECONOMY.

POLINA OSHEROV: I LOVE THAT YOU TALK ABOUT THE CREATIVE ECONOMY AS PART OF YOUR PLATFORM. THAT’S NOT SOMETHING YOU HEAR INDIANA LEGISLATORS MENTION MUCH. TALK A BIT ABOUT WHY YOU BELIEVE THE CREATIVE ECONOMY IS IMPORTANT, AND WHAT IT MEANS TO YOU PERSONALLY. ANDREA HUNLEY: Why do people go to Portland? Why do people go to Denver? Why do people go to Austin? Why do people go to Nashville? It's because of the culture and arts scene in those cities. Whether it's music, visual arts, fashion, film, or architecture, people are attracted to cities with vibrant culture, and a vibrant culture is an indicator of a strong creative economy. And a strong creative economy has significant direct economic impact—driving tourism, jobs, and innovation. In 2019 the creative economy contributed $12.4 billion to Indiana's Gross Domestic Product (GDP), which represented 3.6% of the state's total—and that’s without any incentives or specific focus in terms of investment. If we want Indianapolis to attract talent whether it's for the tech industry, or to work in education or manufacturing, we need to keep reminding ourselves that the creative economy is at the heart of making that happen. Selfishly, I also want to live in a place that's vibrant all the time, and not just when we have big sporting events or conventions come through. Don’t get me wrong, I love what we’ve been doing with large scale music and art activations during events like the Final Four, but you know on a random Tuesday, you go out to Georgia Street

and there’s no one around. I’d like to see that change. A lot has changed for the better since I moved here in 2006, but there’s room for so much more to be done. PO: WHAT DO YOU THINK CAN HELP MOVE THE NEEDLE ON MAKING THE CITY MORE VIBRANT, MORE OFTEN? AH: It requires two big things. Collaboration across a variety of sectors, public and private, and then money. We have to be willing to work together to find ways to invest in creativity; in music, in art, in placemaking. Particularly, if we, as a city, want more vibrancy and density. PO: YOU WANNA GO OUT ON A LIMB AND SUGGEST A DOLLAR AMOUNT? AH: I mean, obviously it's in the billions, Polina! Obviously. (Laughter) PO: HOW DO YOU HOPE TO USE YOUR PLATFORM TO SUPPORT EMERGING TALENT IN THE CREATIVE INDUSTRIES? AH: I really want to get good at telling datadriven stories about the creative economy and its impact. I hear conversations around recruiting big companies to Central Indiana and creating more high wage jobs, but part of that is growing our talent pool. Bottom-line, we need more people to move here. And for that to happen we need to find ways to attract more people to live and work in Central Indiana, especially downtown.

PO: ON A SERIOUS NOTE, THE PANDEMIC HAS HAD A HUGE IMPACT ON THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY, AS YOU WELL KNOW, AND AS A LOVER OF FOOD, TALK A LITTLE BIT ABOUT HOW YOU SAW THE RESTAURANT SCENE IN INDIANAPOLIS HANDLE THE CHALLENGES OF THAT TIME. AH: Covid was really, really hard. At the beginning of the pandemic, we didn't know if this was gonna be six weeks, six months, six years, we had no idea. But in the midst of the hardship, and complete uncertainty, our hospitality community almost immediately started thinking about how they could help make sure that others could make it through. Many restaurants tried really hard to stay open, and then when they couldn't, they still found ways to feed the community, whether that was donating to Second Helpings, making box lunches figuring out how to set up carry out, or delivery, because they knew that this was just such a need in the community. Folks in hospitality really put themselves on the line. I was still working full-time, balancing kids who were in homeschool, and a million other things, and there were days where I didn't have a minute to spare to make a meal, and yet, I knew that I could call a restaurant that I trusted, and that someone would deliver the meal to my door, and that it would have been prepared with all the safety precautions. I am still so grateful for that. PO: THE FOOD SCENE IS MAKING A COMEBACK THOUGH. LOTS OF NEW PLACES ARE POPPING UP. HARD TO KEEP UP EVEN.

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AH: So I am a big foodie. I love our restaurants. I love the pop-ups. I love the food trucks! Anywhere that there is food, I am there. Part of my connection is that my mom has always been in food service of some type. She's a dietician, and she ran the kitchens in nursing homes while I was growing up, and every Wednesday, made dinner in our church for the entire neighborhood. So we learned to love gathering around food. I have a real appreciation for the work that folks in hospitality do to help our community thrive and to give us places to gather. Also, I would put our food scene up against anywhere, and I'm a person who loves to eat my way through Chicago and New York and wherever I can. We have got stellar, stellar chefs here in Indy! PO: INDIANAPOLIS HAS A REALLY RICH CULTURAL HISTORY WITH MANY DIFFERENT COMMUNITIES CONTRIBUTING TO THE CITY'S IDENTITY. HOW DO YOU THINK WE CAN BEST SUPPORT AND CELEBRATE THIS DIVERSITY IN THE CITY'S FOOD SCENE? AH: I don't know if you know this about me, but my Masters is in Language Education, and I’ve worked closely with families from all over the world that have children who are English language learners. This worked out really well for me as a teacher and a lover of all food as some of my past students’ parents own restaurants around Indy. I would go hit those on occasion and they'd give me extra special treatment. (Laughter)

DRESS DIANE VON FURSTENBERG EARRINGS COLLECTION OF KATIE CLEMENTS

RIGHT: BUTTON DOWN COS TOP ZARA SKIRT JUAN VIDAL BOOTS ALOHAS EARRINGS COLLECTION OF KATIE CLEMENTS LEFT: DRESS ZARA PUMPS MARC FISHER

The big picture is that we need to get better at celebrating and promoting the contributions of our international food entrepreneurs, and not just in the Mile Square, but all around Indianapolis. PO: CARE TO SHOUT OUT YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANT OR CHEF, OR IS THAT JUST ASKING FOR TROUBLE? AH: No way! No way! (Laughter) But anywhere that anybody wants me to go, I will try any place. PO: WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THE ISSUE OF INDY'S FOOD DESERTS? AH: When we say food desert, I think it's a misnomer. I think it's actually food apartheid, because a desert implies that it's something that's nature made, something that was accidental or an act of God. But what has happened in our neighborhoods where you do not have a grocery store within two, or even three, four miles is true apartheid. Food deserts are a really complex economic and social issue, and outdated policies are certainly contributing to the problem. I can see how there are opportunities to help move the needle on solving this challenge via policy, but simply put we have to figure out a way to support grocers that are willing to be in neighborhoods and help them become self-sustaining.

I’d love to see more things like the new Cook Medical area on the east side where they've got the Goodwill Excel Center, and they're putting a grocery store out there and training up people from the community to run it. We have to stop pretending like our gas stations count as grocery stores because they don't. PO: LAST QUESTION, WHAT IS THE BEST ADVICE THAT YOU'VE GOTTEN THAT YOU STILL ABIDE BY? AH: : “Use your voice and always speak up!” is something that my parents really instilled in me from a young age. My mom and I were reminiscing about this the other day. My freshman year of college, I'm standing in one of those little convenience stores on campus, and it's really late, and they're throwing away all of the food that has the next day’s expiration date. And I was like, “What is happening? How are they just throwing all of this away?” Side-note: Growing up my mom told us the expiration dates were bullshit. PO: OMG!! SAME!!! (LAUGHTER) AH: So I was like, “This is perfectly good food. I can’t believe this is happening!” I called my mom very upset. And she said, “You need to talk to them and write a letter in your campus newspaper to address this. Use your voice!” And so I did and as a result a food recovery program was created and they stopped tossing the food! So yeah, I guess the best advice I’ve gotten is, “use your voice!” And here I am, still following it. ✂

ALL In Good Taste FIVE LOCAL ILLUSTRATORS OFFER VISUAL INTERPRETATIONS OF SWEET, SOUR, BITTER, UMAMI, AND SALTY.

NOAH GREGG SWEET // CARRIE KELB SOUR // JOHN VAZQUEZ BITTER BYRON ELLIOTT UMAMI // VEDA DULLAGHAN SALTY

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FRENCH FRIES ARE A UNIVERSAL PLEASURE.

FRY EXPERTS

No matter where you go in the world, you can almost always count on finding these golden, crispy wonders on the menu. But let’s face it, we all have our favorites. Some of us crave the thin, crispy shoestring fries, while others prefer the hearty crunch of steak fries or the fun and unique texture of waffle fries. Here at PATTERN magazine, we take our french fries seriously, so we braved the grease and carbs, sampling fry after fry, and laughing as we compared notes and debated our favorites. But in the end, the jury is still out on the best fry. Everyone has their own preferences, and we all have to figure out which fry suits our tastes best. Warning: reading this article may cause intense cravings and spontaneous trips to the nearest drive-thru.

PHOTOGRAPHY & FOOD STYLED BY DAVE PLUIMER PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT MIKAELA HELANE FRY ACQUISITION BY KATIE FREEMAN AND LEO SOYFER FRY WARMING SERVICES BY LEO SOYFER FRY TESTERS KATIE FREEMAN, CECE ANDREWS, LEO SOYFER, JENNY WALTON, AND POLINA OSHEROV DESIGN BY JOHN ILANG-ILANG

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Shoestring MCDONALD’S

McDonald’s shoestring fries are the perfect quick fix for any fry craving, especially late at night when other options may not be available. These fries are a tried and true baseline average fry, neither exceptional nor terrible. Leo gives them a 6/10 rating, saying that while they’re good, there are brighter stars out there in the fry world. Despite their average status, these fries have a loyal following. Polina thinks they’re the best, giving them a 9/10 rating. And if the shoestring fry were a person, according to Cece, they would be “super reliable. You’d just know that you can count on them and they’ll always have your back.”

e l F f A W -FIL-A

CHICK

Chick-Fil-A’s waffle fries are like the sidekick to their famous chicken sandwich — they’re there, they’re reliable, but they’re not stealing the show. Leo says, “Nobody goes to Chick-Fil-A exclusively for the fries. People go for the meal, and then the fries are a part of that. A side character, if you will.” But don’t get it twisted, these fries have a cult following. Some swear by using them as a sauce spoon, while others like Katie think they’re too thick and usually soggy. Jenny simply describes them as “soft.” Leo thinks they’re preppy, like that person who wears a belt for some reason. Either way, they’re worth trying, especially when you’re tired of average fast food.

crinkle SHAKE SHACK

Shake Shack’s crinkle cut fries are a divisive bunch, toeing the line between soggy and deliciously crispy (although Katie insists they’re generally crispy when first received). But for Jenny, these fries are a love affair. “First impression? I love it,” she gushes. “I feel like a crinkle-cut fry allows for maximum dip exposure. You get more dip to your fry, and so often, these fries have melted cheese on them.” Yes, cheese is key to the Shake Shack fry experience. And while they may be a vehicle for sauces and toppings, much like Chick-fil-A’s waffle fries, they hold their own as a solid side option. As Mikaela puts it, “Salty, but very good. 7/10. Always fresh.” Would she go out of her way to get them? “If I was walking past a Shake Shack and was in the mood for fries, would I go in? Maybe. They’re good, but I’m not sure I’d want them as a standalone item.”

curly ARBY’S

Arby’s curly fries are the ultimate guilty pleasure fry, as they are the only ones that can be enjoyed without a sauce. These fries are perfect for on-the-go eating, particularly in the car, as Leo, Jenny, and Katie all attest. In fact, Arby’s was Jenny’s family’s go-to for road trips, and Katie admits to seeking out their fries without any intention of ordering a sandwich. According to Leo, the fries are so delicious that they radiate happiness in photos, and he gives them a perfect 10/10 rating.

Steak KFC

KFC’s steak fries seem to be the forgotten stepchild of the fast food world. Cece suggests saving them for a day at the Indy 500 or a sunny outdoor picnic, but Leo doesn’t see the appeal. “I don’t love KFC, and these fries are not changing my opinion,” he says. And while Katie appreciates the crispy texture and seasoning, the fries are still a bit oily and taste too much like, well, chicken. It seems the KFC steak fries won’t be stealing the spotlight anytime soon, but maybe they’ll find their niche as a side dish for those craving some outdoor picnic vibes.

FROM JAMES BEARD TO RETRO BURGERS: Exploring the City’s Culinary Scene with Chef Neal Brown

WORDS BY AMY LYNCH PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALESHA MCCARTY I RECENTLY SAT DOWN WITH CHEF NEAL BROWN FOR A CONVERSATION ABOUT INDIANAPOLIS FOOD CULTURE. THE NOBLESVILLE NATIVE AND TWO-TIME JAMES BEARD BEST CHEF GREAT LAKES REGION NOMINEE GRADUATED WITH A DEGREE IN APPLIED SCIENCE FROM JOHNSON & WALES UNIVERSITY IN 1996 BEFORE RETURNING TO INDIANAPOLIS AND EMBARKING ON A CAREER ADVENTURE THAT’S SPANNED MORE THAN TWENTY YEARS AND A HALF DOZEN DIFFERENT CUISINES. THESE DAYS, HUNGRY FANS CAN FIND HIM AT ONE TRICK PONY, HIS RETRO BURGER CONCEPT IN THE FISHERS TEST KITCHEN INCUBATOR.

AMY LYNCH: Let’s recap. Fine dining, pizza, craft cocktails with small bite pairings, Japanese, Mexican, burgers—how do you decide what direction you want to move in next? NEAL BROWN: Historically, it’s whatever my interest has been at the time. My heart’s always been in fine dining, but I’ve never been able to figure out how to crack that scene in Indianapolis. Up until a few years ago, fine dining here was almost exclusively steakhouses. The service, the atmosphere, the ambiance, the appointed dining rooms—all benchmarks of fine dining. What there’s not really a market for here, in my opinion, is hyper-creative food. AL: We don’t tend to see much molecular gastronomy in Indy, do we? NB: That’s what we were doing at L’Explorateur, but it only lasted a few years until we ran up against the recession. Caleb France tried with Cerulean. Jonathan Brooks and I talked about doing Beholder and Ukiyo as fine dining when we started them, and almost instantly did an about face to make both restaurants more casual. It’s tough. I feel like most people do not want to take a risk with their food in this city. AL: So how do you balance giving customers what they want with still being able to innovate? NB: Good service never goes out of style. We know this. An emphasis on good service is always the place to start. You’re essentially training servers to guide guests through their dining experience rather than just walking up to the table and asking people what they want for dinner. Once they learn that, it gives the kitchen freedom for creative expression. That’s the pathway.

exceptional kitchen with some amazing talent. But again, we didn’t feel like we could just go crazy. So I started offering the omakase service. What that enabled us to do was to be creative in a highly controlled environment. The guests never really had a say in what they ordered. They just put themselves in our hands, and it was some of the most successful cooking I’ve done in my career because I was able to connect with every single diner and do some really elevated stuff on a small scale. AL: You’ve established a reputation, though. People know you and trust you. It would be hard for someone new to Indy or to the industry to pull that off. NB: All praise goes to Greg Hardesty (a pioneering Indianapolis chef who passed away in 2021) for that. I worked behind his sushi bar at H2O for six years, and over time, he started allowing me to really guide customers through their dining experiences. That’s where that comes from. AL: Who do you think is doing it well right now? NB: I’ve not been to Hinata downtown, but I hear they’re doing an omakase that’s really good. I feel like Jon Brooks is doing the most inventive food in the city, no question. And by extension, Esteban Rosas at Milktooth. It’s really all about someone who’s connecting with the people they’re serving. Bluebeard always connects well because they’ve built such a deep culture in that restaurant. And let’s face it, Mike Cunningham (owner of the Cunningham Restaurant Group that includes Mesh, Vida, Union 50, Provision, and Livery) pretty much owns dinner in Indianapolis right now as far as I’m concerned.

For example, we had excellent service at Ukiyo. We had people who cared about hospitality, and we had an 49

“I’D HAVE TO SAY THE DIVERSITY OF OUR OFFERINGS WOULD BE THE BIGGEST SURPRISE. THERE’S ALMOST NO CUISINE YOU CAN’T GET HERE, AND GOOD REPRESENTATIONS OF THOSE CUISINES, I MIGHT ADD.” AL: What are some of the biggest changes you’ve seen in local palates and preferences? NB: In the past ten years, diversity stands out the most. When people ask me what my favorite restaurants are in the city, they’ve probably never heard of most of them. My favorite way to eat is to go to places that are doing global food as authentically as they possibly can. I think Bluebeard has taken up the reins of what Greg Hardesty was doing, becoming an incubator for the future culinary talent of this city. A lot of really good cooks and chefs are coming out of Abbi Merriss’ kitchen. I’d say that’s by design. And that’s exciting to see. AL: As far as food trends go, where does Indianapolis stand? Are we keeping pace with the rest of the country? Are we behind the curve? NB: If you’d asked me this question five years ago, I would have said we were perpetually five years behind the trends. I don’t think we are now. We’re maybe a few years behind. Here’s the kicker, though. I’m not sure we’re behind because we haven’t progressed. I think the food across the country as a whole has regressed. AL: How so? NB: We’ve gone through a huge food renaissance where people started wearing the title of “foodie” as a badge of honor, and chefs began to really care about the provenance of the ingredients they’re working with. The presence of social media is the newest trend in food. Influencers are now more powerful than chefs. Social media cooks have become the new tastemakers, but most of the time, they have no idea what they’re doing. AL: What effects of that have you seen on our local food scene? NB: Not only is everyone now a critic, everyone’s a cook. That’s not to say some people aren’t cooking good food online, but there’s far more bullshit out there than actual food of quality or credence. AL: Is there any upside to social media for restaurants? Say, someone posts a photo of a gorgeous dish they’ve eaten. Does it drive traffic to that restaurant from people who want to order the same thing? NB: To some extent. It’s been great for some

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restaurants, but not in general. I don’t have any research to back this up, but I’ve thought for some time that there are a lot of people out there who are perfectly happy to consume your product in a photograph for free. You show them the dish, you tell them what it is, and that’s enough to satisfy them. They never actually go and eat that dish. AL: What do you think surprises people from out of town about our food scene? NB: I’d have to say the diversity of our offerings would be the biggest surprise. There’s almost no cuisine you can’t get here, and good representations of those cuisines, I might add. If I had to guess, I’d say most visitors come away with the impression that we have really nice restaurants in the downtown business district where they spend most of their time. AL: Where do you think the local food scene needs improvement? NB: I wish we had more high-end creative restaurants, and that the market would support them. AL: What does the future of food in Indianapolis look like? NB: I think comfort food will continue to flourish, social media will drive home cooks to be more adventurous in their own kitchens, and my hope is that some ambitious young chefs get the opportunity to drive the scene forward. AL: Where is your focus right now, and what’s up next for you? NB: My focus is on Fishers Test Kitchen and One Trick Pony. I’m still very energized about growing that brand. AL: Last question. If Indianapolis was a flavor, what would it be? NB: Hm. Let’s call it horchata. Mostly vanilla, but with a kick of spice to keep things interesting. ✂

ASK THE CHEF SPECIAL THANK YOU TO NEWFIELDS FOR THE USE OF THE GALLERIES WORDS BY CORY CATHCART AND KATIE FREEMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY POLINA OSHEROV

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LET'S FACE IT, FOOD IS LIFE AND RESTAURANTS ARE OUR SANCTUARIES. BUT HAVE YOU EVER WONDERED ABOUT THE PEOPLE BEHIND THE MEALS YOU SAVOR? THEY'RE NOT JUST CULINARY WIZARDS, THEY'RE REAL-LIFE HUMANS WHO WORK TIRELESSLY TO MAKE YOUR DINING EXPERIENCE A MEMORABLE ONE. CENTRAL INDIANA BOASTS A PLETHORA OF AMAZING RESTAURANTS, BUT WE BET YOU CAN'T NAME ALL THE CHEFS IN YOUR OWN CITY. THAT'S WHERE PATTERN COMES IN—WE'RE SHINING A SPOTLIGHT ON A HANDFUL OF THESE UNSUNG HEROES BY ASKING THEM THE REAL TOUGH QUESTIONS (THAT HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH FOOD).

Aaron Butts

What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? Traveling and dining out fuels my creative enrgy. Also, the local farmers and what they produce is always inspiring. Serving and hosting people also makes me so happy and fulfilled.

What are you known for? I’ve been known as one of the pioneer chefs in farm-to-fork dining.

What is a fear or phobia you have? I have a slight fear of public speaking. No problem speaking to tables or small groups—just big audiences. Also, I have a fear of being smothered by a group of people, like in a stampede at a concert or something. Dumb, I know.

Where can we follow you? Instagram: @chefbutts

Who is your favorite author? Chuck Palahniuk.

What is your favorite piece of artwork in your home? Oh, hard question! I have a print that a local artist did for last year’s Dead and Company show at Deer Creek. (Yeah, I’m that old.) It was also the last print available at the show. I felt pretty lucky to snag it.

What profession other than your own would you like to attempt? When I was younger I wanted to be a cop. Not so much anymore. I can’t imagine not cooking professionally.

Where are you working now? Copper Spoon, Fort Wayne.

What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? Traveling and dining out fuels my creative energy. Also, the local farmers and what they produce is always inspiring. Serving and hosting people also makes me so happy and fulfilled. What is your favorite curse word? Fuck. Fuck this. Fuck that. Fuck it. And fuck yeah.

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What is your favorite film? Rocky. What is your zodiac sign? Virgo. What is a song that immediately makes you nostalgic? “Classic Girl” by Jane’s Addiction. What is a quality or trait you admire in others and strive to cultivate in yourself? Confidence, kindness, and compassion.

Oya

Woodruff What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? I'm always turned on and inspired by how other creatives create. Witnessing someone work in their passion or fulfilling parts of their destiny makes me so happy.

Where are you working now? The TRAP.

What is a fear or phobia you have? Chalk.

What are you known for? Trap Buttah slathered seafood.

Who is your favorite author? Octavia Butler.

Where can we follow you? Instagram: @chef_oya

What profession other than your own would you like to attempt? I'd like to record a blues album one day.

Facebook: @ChefOyaWoodruff Tiktok: @chef_oya What is your favorite piece of artwork in your home? A painting of my daughter and me in a sunflower field by Zsudayka Nzinga from a photo by Chandra Lynch. What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? I'm always turned on and inspired by how other creatives create. Witnessing someone work in their passion or fulfilling parts of their destiny makes me so happy.

What is your favorite film? I know Ace Ventura: Pet Detective by heart. What is your zodiac sign? Aries Sun, Taurus Moon, Scorpio Rising. What is a song that immediately makes you nostalgic? “Cruisin'” by Smokey Robinson (or D'Angelo). What is a quality or trait you admire in others and strive to cultivate in yourself? Authenticity, always.

What is your favorite curse word? Bitch!

CHRIS ELEY

What is a quality or trait you admire in others and strive to cultivate in yourself? Humbleness. It is more important than confidence. I like to see people that are extremely talented, but let their skills do the talking.

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Where are you working now? Goose the Market and Smoking Goose. What are you known for? Our Meat Game and my height. Where can we follow you? Instagram: @goosethemarket @smokinggoosemeatery What is your favorite piece of artwork in your home? A painting of our camp in the Boundary Waters by Cathy Folkerth. What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? The outdoors. I spend a lot of time outside and I'd like it to stay that way. What is your favorite curse word? I am a fan of the old standby "fuck.” It's amazing how one word can accomplish so many things. What is a fear or phobia you have? Snakes. I like them from a distance, but I do not want to be near them for any reason and I definitely don't want one in my sleeping bag.

Who is your favorite author? I have never thought this one through. I am historically not a reader of books, but I have been more so in recent years. So I can honestly say my favorite author has to be the author of the book I am reading at that time or else I just won't finish reading it. What profession other than your own would you like to attempt? Western hunting guide. What is your favorite film? A long time favorite film of mine is Stand By Me. What is your zodiac sign? Scorpio. What is a song that immediately makes you nostalgic? “Old Man” by Neil Young. What is a quality or trait you admire in others and strive to cultivate in yourself? Humbleness. It is more important than confidence. I like to see people that are extremely talented, but let their skills do the talking.

Abbi

Merriss Where are you working now? Bluebeard.

What are you known for? Being a chef, I guess. Where can we follow you? Instagram: @schbabbs What is your favorite piece of artwork in your home? I have a portrait of my dog, Harley, who passed away a few years ago. A local artist and very good friend painted it as a gift. What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? Having great dining experiences with good company, beautiful fall days, and inspiring conversations with dear friends. What is your favorite curse word? Fuck! The other one I shouldn’t say. It rhymes with punt. What is a fear or phobia you have? Sometimes heights. Who is your favorite author? David Sedaris. What profession other than your own would you like to attempt? Architecture or secret agent. What is your favorite film? Clue, Drowning Mona, Drop Dead Gorgeous, UHF. There are so many. What is your zodiac sign? Taurus. What is a song that immediately makes you nostalgic? “Velouria” by the Pixies. What is a quality or trait you admire in others and strive to cultivate in yourself? The motivation to workout.

What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? Having great dining experiences with good company, beautiful fall days, and inspiring conversations with dear friends.

Clarissa Morley What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? Human connection. In my business, I am motivated by the stories told surrounding food. Not only food purchased from us, but also how food connects us to our memories, our senses, and our past.

Where are you working now? Pots & Pans Pie Co.

What is your favorite curse word? Shit.

What are you known for? Pies!

What is a fear or phobia you have? I am very scared of getting an illness that could give me chronic fatigue, like Lyme disease. I value my energy and how my energy fuels my abilities and my dreams. I don't know how well I would function without it.

Where can we follow you? Instagram: @potsandpansindy, @clarissannmorley Tiktok: @potsandpanspieco What is your favorite piece of artwork in your home? Most of the artwork in our home has been created by our friends. We have a couple of large pieces by Lauren Callis of Curiosity Studio in Minneapolis. Both pieces are aerial views. One is of farmland and the other features rows of homes. These large original pieces are hung at the entrance to our home and have remained my favorites for quite some time. What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? Human connection. In my business, I am motivated by the stories told surrounding food. Not only food purchased from us, but also how food connects us to our memories, our senses, and our past. I am also inspired by my connection to nature and the outdoors. Outdoor experiences, especially with others, fill me with the most energy. That, and the opportunity to use my hands to interact and create. Who is your favorite author? I’m not sure I have a favorite author at this stage in life. When I read, I am usually reading for entertainment or educational purposes.

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What profession other than your own would you like to attempt? Probably midwifery. It all comes back to human connection with each other and with our past. This profession is something I considered doing before starting my own food business. What is your favorite film? The Big Sick. What is your zodiac sign? Libra. What is a song that immediately makes you nostalgic? “Take It From Me” by The Weepies. I sang this song to my daughter almost every day for the first year or so of her life. What is a quality or trait you admire in others and strive to cultivate in yourself? Organization. I can keep myself very organized in my head but translating those thoughts for others to understand is often challenging. I strive to be better in order to continue to strengthen my leadership skills.

STEVEN OAKLEY What’s your favorite curse word? Are you fucking kidding me?

Where are you working now? OAKLEYS bistro.

Who is your favorite author? Josh Greenberg.

What are you known for? Innovative, creative American food.

What profession other than your own would you like to attempt? A fishing guide.

Where can we follow you? Instagram: @oakleysbistro Facebook: @oakleysbistro Twitter: @oakleysbistro What is your favorite piece of artwork in your home? A piece I commissioned Sylvia Gray to paint of the French countryside. What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? Reading, dining out, and fishing. What is your favorite curse word? Are you fucking kidding me? What is a fear or phobia you have? Both snakes and drowning.

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What is your favorite film? Shawshank Redemption. What is your zodiac sign? Pisces. What is a song that immediately makes you nostalgic? Any song by REO Speedwagon. What is a quality or trait you admire in others and strive to cultivate in yourself? Listening.

Cindy Hawkins Where are you working now? Circle City Sweets.

What are you known for? Croissants, macarons, breads, and specialty pastries. Where can we follow you? Instagram: @circlecitysweets Facebook: @circlecitysweets Twitter: @circlecitysweet What is your favorite piece of artwork in your home? It is a canvas print photo of my husband and me in the ocean in Costa Rica. What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? Music! My favorite time of the day is when I am alone in the shop listening to music. What is your favorite curse word? Fuck and all of its variations. What is a fear or phobia you have? Mushrooms. Seriously. Who is your favorite author? Honestly, I don't have a lot of time for reading anything other than industry publications and cookbooks. What profession other than your own would you like to attempt? I’d like to try being a food travel agent. What is your favorite film? Casablanca. What is your zodiac sign? Cancer. What is a song that immediately makes you nostalgic? “Slip Slidin’ Away” by Paul Simon. What is a quality or trait you admire in others and strive to cultivate in yourself? Integrity. To me, it is the most important quality.

What is a fear or phobia you have? Mushrooms. Seriously.

Pen

phojanasupan What is your favorite piece of artwork in your home? Random artwork pieces that my granddaughter, Taelor, collected over the years— including all her McDonald’s Happy Meal toys. I would consider those as “vintage” pieces.

Where are you working now? BODHI. What are you known for? Chef & Owner of BODHI (generational Thai recipes). Where can we follow you? Instagram: @bodhi.indy

What is your favorite piece of artwork in your home? Random artwork pieces that my granddaughter, Taelor, collected over the years—including all her McDonald’s Happy Meal toys. I would consider those as “vintage” pieces. What turns you on creatively, spiritually, or emotionally? Cooking and the ability to have resources to make food for my children. What is your favorite curse word? A Thai-equivalent word of “damn it.” What is a fear or phobia you have? Fear of not being able to take care of my children. What is your favorite film? Nothing in particular. I really enjoy a lot of Korean films.

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Who is your favorite author? None. I finished fourth grade. Being in a school wasn’t a thing for women at the time, especially in rural provinces. My younger brother was sent to school and graduated from a college of some sort. For me, I never got to read any books as most of my time was spent doing chores and working.

What profession other than your own would you like to attempt? I’ve been cooking my whole life for my family. I was also a self-taught seamstress. I wouldn’t mind attempting to become a seamstress again, but back then the profession wasn’t enough to feed my family. What is your zodiac sign? I was born in 1947. The exact date is unknown but I was born in a rural area of Thailand where no exact record was kept. What is a song that immediately makes you nostalgic? Any classic Thai songs. What is a quality or trait you admire in others and strive to cultivate in yourself? Being selfless toward your loved ones especially your children and building strong relationships with them. ✂

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BERK VISUAL AND VICTOR GHABEN. ENTREPRENEURS. VIBE CONNOISSEURS. WORLD FAMOUS HOT BOYS. WORDS BY KATIE FREEMAN PHOTOGRAPHY SUBMITTED Are you on the hunt for the ultimate fried chicken sandwich? Look no further than World Famous Hotboys in Fountain Square. This hot chicken joint has taken over the revered location of Peppy’s Grill since its launch in April 2022. The Hotboys chain has skyrocketed in popularity since opening its first brickand-mortar establishment in Oakland back in December 2019. In just three years, it has expanded to three more locations. Renowned for their inventive menu items like the Bonuts (biscuit donuts), Krinkle Kut fries with toppings ranging from gravy to chicken étouffée, and of course, their famous hot chicken sandos, this chicken spot is unlike anything else in the Indy area. Step inside and you’ll be transported to another world with neon lights illuminating walls stacked with nostalgic trinkets. Not to mention their retro website is absolutely amazing. It’s natural to wonder how this sassy chicken chain ended up in Indiana, 2,000 miles away from its California headquarters. We caught up with Hotboys co-founders Berk Visual and Victor Ghaben to learn more about their journey.

KATIE FREEMAN: How did you guys decide on Fountain Square as the location for an Indiana Hotboys? BERK VISUAL: Our Indy guys, Aaron and Kyle, were hitting us up relentlessly. We were like, “Thanks, we’re glad you guys want us to come there. But why? That doesn’t make any sense.” Then they came to California and we thought, “Wow, they’re serious. They really want to do this. Alright, I guess we should return the favor.” So we went out. We checked out some spots in Detroit, too. I was still like, “Yeah, Indy, whatever.” By the end of the trip, after walking around in Fountain Square and seeing the character of the neighborhood and the building itself—how it sits right there on the edge of people’s houses—I just saw it. I think we all saw a lot of potential in being part of that scene and bringing a little bit of our sauce to it. Then we went through a whole crazy thing trying to get the building. KF: So you guys fought for it, then? VICTOR GHABEN: The owner was very reluctant to let it go. It took maybe seven months for him to get back to us and allow us to move forward with an offer. Once we got it, we had to undo some shoddy construction. There was a whole process to it. I say that because it’s indicative of what we try to do. We’re not trying to just get in on a pre-existing lease and make as much money as possible, as fast as possible. We saw this really good building and put a bunch of money into revitalizing it in hopes that it would spark some type of community activity we can coexist with. That’s important to our model—that the community around us actually enjoys what we provide and contributes to what we do.

KF: California to Indiana, that’s a huge jump. Were you worried that Hoosiers wouldn’t be able to handle the heat, per se? VG: Definitely. Not even on a spice level, but also the vibe. The vibe of the restaurant is unique. And the food is in your face. So it’s not like it’s trying to fit in. We had some concerns that the culture of the restaurant—or the food—wouldn’t be as well received as it was in Oakland. But we took Aaron and Kyle’s word for it and we gave it a shot, and it seems to be working out. KF: Unique is definitely spot-on. My jaw hit the floor when I walked inside—it’s like a massive art installation. Could you tell me how you decided on that style of decor and where the hell you got all that stuff? BV: Maximalism is something that is pretty characteristic of my art. If you look at the murals at all the restaurants, it’s a lot of stuff crammed into one space, which becomes something new in itself. A lot of the stuff inside comes from the things me and Vic were into as kids: video games, rap music, skateboarding, punk rock, and other stuff like that. VG: I think the style is continuously changing. BV: Yes, the decor is constantly evolving, but at the root, it’s our style. We’ll see if that continues moving forward. I’ve done the art direction and interior design for the four locations that exist now. The booths are inspired by old Polo Ralph Lauren color blocking, where one sleeve is green and one sleeve is red. It’s all a little nod to what we grew up on.

“ WE SAW THIS REALLY GOOD BUILDING AND PUT A BUNCH OF MONEY INTO REVITALIZING IT IN HOPES THAT IT WOULD SPARK SOME TYPE OF COMMUNITY ACTIVITY WE CAN COEXIST WITH. THAT’S IMPORTANT TO OUR MODEL —THAT THE COMMUNITY AROUND US ACTUALLY ENJOYS WHAT WE PROVIDE AND CONTRIBUTES TO WHAT WE DO.”

KF: Since the first Hotboys opened in 2019, you’ve been able to expand so quickly. Why do you think that is?

KF: You’ve got some Indiana exclusives on the menu, including the Nap Special and the Hoosier Fries.

BV: Oakland has a poppin’ First Friday event. We rented a pop-up there and would curate art and music to make our events even more poppin’. By the time we opened our own location, we had been doing well-attended, community-driven events in Oakland for a few months.

BV: They are on the menu in California now, too. So Indy is effectively influencing California at this point.

VG: And even before we became a permitted food service pop-up, we had been serving the public for a year or two and we had a strong network of creative friends to work with. We started hosting parties to coincide with our pop-ups. We had our friends play music and show their art or their crafted goods, and created a community-driven environment that allowed everyone a chance to promote themselves and make a little money.

BV: Yeah! The last time I had Hotboys, I had Hoosier Fries, which are Krinkle Kut fries smothered in gravy. Our gravy is really good. It’s a biscuit gravy we make in-house from chicken sausage.

Once we got into a brick-and-mortar, our reputation followed us. We had a line down the block from day one that still hasn’t let up. But now, our wait times are down from those multiple-hour numbers to fifteen minutes, thanks to a new kitchen and a system that also allows guests to order online. KF: With your backgrounds in art and music, why hot chicken? BV: I went to school for music in Nashville, so that’s part of the connection to hot chicken. We both like food; that’s another hobby of ours. Victor’s family has been very involved and really successful in the food scene. The music industry is tough and it can burn you out. I think Vic was on the industry side of making music and he started to look more at what his family was doing. Then, he started to talk to me about ways that we could take the things we were good at and apply them to the infrastructure they had, and try to create something that we could be passionate about, yet existed in a different realm. A hot chicken spot was something where we could bring in the elements of art and music, and create a food experience that satisfied what we were passionate about. The Hotboys thing was non-existent in that market—we’re like a lifestyle restaurant. You hear about that with clothing brands, but Hotboys as a restaurant is something that people feel like they’re a part of, which we are really happy about. We cherish that side of it.

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KF: Has it gone well over there?

VG: It’s hard to find gravy like this in California. Indy knows good gravy, so the Cali guests have been giving a lot of positive feedback. You can also enjoy it served with “Bonuts N’ Gravy,” or with a side of white rice, fried chicken, and eggs on our “Pollo Moco” dish. Or you can do what I’ve been doing and order a side of gravy to dunk some chicken tenders in! KF: What was it like developing those Indiana-inspired recipes while staying true to the Californian roots of Hotboys? BV: It’s funny. We call it ‘Oakland hot chicken’ jokingly, but it’s ultimately rooted in Nashville. And I grew up in Virginia, so there’s also a cool correlation between Oakland and the South. There’s a similar sense of hospitality and respect for the community. When we got to Indy, it was the same thing. We purposely made sure we were there long enough to catch a vibe. So we’ve taken pieces from the South, pieces from California, and now Indy. It’s all getting mixed in there and becoming its own thing. KF: You think you’ll be back in Indiana anytime soon? BV: We definitely plan on coming out again sometime this year! Possibly for the race. VG: It’s cool because I know my way around now. I don’t need Google Maps or anything. We’ve got a bunch of friends. If we walk into a bar in Fountain Square, now we know about a third of the people. It’s surreal. ✂

Bloom and Beauty ILLUSTRATIONS BY NINA GRAULEY

NINA GRAULEY, A TALENTED ILLUSTRATOR KNOWN FOR HER BOTANICAL ART, HAS BROUGHT TO LIFE THE DELICATE BEAUTY OF SOME OF INDIANA'S NATIVE AND EDIBLE PLANTS THROUGH HER STUNNING ILLUSTRATIONS. FROM THE DEEP PURPLE HUES OF MULBERRY TO THE VELVETY TEXTURE OF PERSIMMON, GRAULEY'S WORK CAPTURES THE INTRICACIES OF EACH PLANT, CELEBRATING THEIR UNIQUE FEATURES AND SUBTLE NUANCES.

THE MANY TALENTS OF ASHLEY BROOKS WORDS BY JOLENE KETZENBERGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER WHONSETLER PRODUCTION ASSISTANT KATIE FREEMAN DESIGN BY LEAH BRINKMAN

or entrepreneur Ashley Brooks, inspiration can come from a vintage apron, a string of pearls, or even a green crushed velvet dress from the 1970s.

“I’ve always been a collector of vintage,” says Brooks. “Aprons and cooking stuff. Fabrics and linens and things. I’m a sentimental person. I’m very nostalgic, so all that is special to me.” She draws on such pieces as inspiration for her consulting business, A.Rose Hospitality, and for the occasional photo backdrop or tablescape when styling or testing recipes. Many of the pieces came from her grandmother. “It’s a way for me to honor her,” Brooks says. “It’s a way for me to honor my relationship with her and keep her memory alive.” She nurtures that sentimental instinct in her elevenyear-old son as well. His recent request to make chocolate chip cookies sent mother and son sorting through old recipes, though it was modern technology that prompted the search.

“He got really inspired by this YouTube video of making chocolate chip cookies in the microwave,” says Brooks, who encourages her son’s efforts in the kitchen. “We started talking about the difference between the microwave and the oven and different techniques. Then he was like, ‘I just really want to make something that’s special. I really want to actually make cookies—not just in the microwave.’ And that’s when he asked about grandma’s recipes.” The search was on. Brooks has plenty of family recipes and cookbooks and was happy to spend a recent Friday night in the kitchen with her son. “You can find any recipe online, but there’s something lost in all that,” she says. “So we sat and looked at my old cookbooks and grandma’s recipes, and we ended up making chocolate chip cookies.” The cookies were a success. “He’s very talented in the kitchen,” she says. “I definitely want to nurture his curiosity and let him discover his own interests, but he does have two foodie parents.”

Brooks has had to explore her own talents and interests since leaving Milktooth, the nationally acclaimed restaurant she founded in 2014 with her former husband, chef Jonathan Brooks. “It took me a while to reclaim my own narrative about it,” she says. “I felt really silenced for a couple of years. I felt like I didn’t have a place. I didn’t know what my identity was in the industry.” On her own and unsure of her future, Brooks looked back before looking forward. “The one constant thread in my entire life was this joy of bringing people around the table,” she says, “and nurturing your family, your community through food. When I was discovering what I wanted to do after leaving my restaurant, I just started putting together the pieces of what I really excel at: hospitality and taking care of people. Putting all that together, I just felt like consulting was an easy choice for me to make.”

The one constant thread in my entire life was this joy of bringing people around the table and nurturing your family, your community through food.” She works one-on-one with clients, helping them sort through difficulties with operations or staffing—or even with starting new restaurants. “I help them conceptualize,” she says, “and think about the branding and stuff like that.” But she also focuses much of her time on her own projects, including the Garfield Park Farmers Market, which she co-founded in 2016. And there’s another big project as well: Baby Got Brunch. The August food fest spotlighting everyone’s favorite weekend meal returns this summer for the fifth year. Brooks, who co-founded the fest in 2017 and now organizes it with Bridget Davis of Bridget Davis Events, said the August 19 fest at Victory Field will be better than ever. Guests can expect more vendors, more non-alcoholic drink options, more art, and a continued focus on addressing food insecurity.

It's been gratifying, she said, to focus on these issues while building her business. And while the hustle can certainly be stressful, she is determined to cultivate the kind of life she wants for herself and her son. “I’ve created a lot of stability in my life,” she says. “It’s important for me to know that I’ve done that for myself and by myself. Anyone who’s been through something traumatic or faced a lot of adversity knows that it has a way of breaking you down. You can get trapped in a negative headspace, and it is so important to know that you can pull yourself out. You can provide for yourself and be the person that you need in your life.” ✂

Fighting hunger may sound like an odd mission for a fest that has touted a wall of donuts and bottomless mimosas, but as Brooks pointed out, “two things can be true at once. With Baby Got Brunch, we can throw an elaborate festival and give people an amazing experience around food and celebrate our food culture and all the talented chefs we have in this city. But at the same time, we can bring awareness to these issues. We’re raising money for different organizations that address that, and we also want to support women and people of color in the industry, people that don’t always get invited to the table.”

GET READY TO INDULGE YOUR SWEET TOOTH AND SATISFY YOUR CRAVING FOR NAIL ART! IN THIS DELICIOUSLY CREATIVE PHOTOSHOOT, WE'VE PAIRED BEAUTIFULLY MANICURED HANDS WITH A VARIETY OF MOUTH-WATERING PASTRIES. FROM FROSTED CUPCAKES TO GLAZED DONUTS AND TOWERING LAYER CAKES, THESE TREATS ARE ALMOST TOO PRETTY TO EAT—BUT TRUST US, YOU’LL WANT TO DIG IN. SO SIT BACK, RELAX, AND GET READY TO FEAST YOUR EYES ON A TRULY DECADENT DISPLAY OF BEAUTY AND BAKED GOODS.

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THE DISH OF A LIFETIME THE HARRISON CENTER PRESENTS ‘ART DISH,’ AN AUDIOVISUAL CULINARY DREAM WORDS BY LAVANYA NARAYANAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNIFER WILSON-BIBBS Music chimes, slowly and subtly. A girl, clad in black, begins to dance. Diners look up, drinks in hand, appetizers teetering precariously. Over twenty feet long, it hangs in the air with the sheer tenacity of marvel, and suddenly, it begins to descend, the evening’s main attraction: the table. “It came to me almost five years ago,” says Joanna Taft, Executive Director of the Harrison Center. A rogue construction project revealed a hidden section of framing lumber behind an age-old drop ceiling. Against the advice of her contractor, who wanted her to toss out the framing lumber, Taft used it, to make it an integral piece of the Center’s legacy, to create a table of community. One where people would come together, over food and drink, and form relationships. She called it ‘Art Dish.’ “People thought I was crazy at first, especially because while half our staff didn’t even have offices, I was envisioning building a massive table that would need storage space,” Taft explains. But looking at the constraint as an opportunity for creativity, Taft decided to store the table in the ceiling space, floating it down once a month to host these monthly dinners in the main gallery of the Center. Using a theater rigging system, her vision became an unexpected reality. And the dream continued to grow as Herron High School dancers were invited to put their talent to the test by dancing the table down for the Art Dish guests. But the table is only the beginning. What’s presented, then, is a multi-course dinner during which each guest is able to ask a question to the artist whose works are being featured in one of the Center’s galleries. “Because art is all about relationships and life is all about relationships, artists will be able to build relationships that will help them grow in their career and the community,” Taft expands. In the last five years, the Harrison Center has patronized the works of countless artists and chefs. The most recent edition of Art Dish incorporated a

With a five-course dinner comprised of tamarindspiced shrimp to pork tenderloin and a sweet potato cheesecake, Covington’s thought was simple: “I wanted to use my experience cooking plantation Southern Cuisine to curate a menu that highlights seasonality, the best local ingredients, prepared with love and attention to detail.” With a discussion moderated by Black staffer Erika Blue, Taft calls it “the perfect homage to what Art Dish is all about: relationships, community, and encouraging artists.”

“BECAUSE ART IS ALL ABOUT RELATIONSHIPS AND LIFE IS ALL ABOUT RELATIONSHIPS, ARTISTS WILL BE ABLE TO BUILD RELATIONSHIPS THAT WILL HELP THEM GROW IN THEIR CAREER AND THE COMMUNITY.”

“We are people of color, and people of color can think the same things about family, love, and closeness. Those motifs never die,” Griffin adds. collaboration with resident musician, Nabil Ince. Also known as “Seaux Chill” in the industry, Ince’s residency with the Center culminated in the Art Dish dinner that he’d heard about and attended previously. “As part of my project, I wanted to highlight Black Indianapolis, particularly the stretch from MartindaleBrightwood to Riverside. The city interacts with that neighborhood in so many different ways, and I wanted to host a dinner with people who fit that narrative.” Gathering an intergenerational group together, Taft and Ince set about to collaborate with Black artist India Cruse Griffin, whose works line the walls of venues such as the Indiana State Museum and the Gainbridge Field House, and Black chef Damon Covington of Gallery on 16th to curate a unique Art Dish dinner, coinciding with Black History Month. “It was an amazing experience, because Nabil and I shared our stories and thoughts. And Chef Damon emulated my artwork, filled with brushstrokes and vibrant colors, by creating the same on the plate. It was really a perfect collaboration,” Griffin shares.

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On the surface, Art Dish is a three hour dinner hosted every second Monday of the month, encouraging the community to engage with art and artists, appreciating the innovation of local talent in both visual arts and cuisine. Priced at $150 per diner, each Art Dish differs in menu, chefs, and artists, while the underlying motifs are the same: that of family, community, and embracing one’s story. ✂

: t s i w T a h t i w t u o e k a T y o J e h t g n i c a r Emb o G e h t n o d o o F of 92

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HOLE IN L L A W E H T WORDS BY JENNY WALTON PHOTOGRAPHY BY POLINA OSHEROV ASSISTED BY LEO SOYFER FOOD TESTERS ALYSE TUCKER BOUNDS AND JAY GOLDZ DESIGN BY LEAH BRINKMAN Over the past few years, food delivery apps have changed the way many of us frequently acquire our meals. Don’t want to put on real clothes? Don’t want to leave your desk? Don’t want to sit alone or interact with strangers? Don’t want to cook, clean, drive, or even think about it? You know what to do. But, maybe, it might be more fun to do something else? It might be more fun to get a coffee for yourself and grab a few blissful moments of solitude while getting bagels for your snoozing family. It might be more fun to eat a sandwich in the Cummins Plaza downtown while meeting up with a friend or two who work nearby. It might be more fun to pile up a picnic and take it to Riverside Park. By all means, place your order online, but think about picking that food up for yourself and going somewhere new. Take a walk. Get some air. Go with a friend or go alone. Whether you’re eating on a blanket, a bench, or a table, there are plenty of restaurants that cater to the perfect takeout experience because that’s exactly what they specialize in: takeout. Here are a few of them.

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JAY:

the d n a s n io t p o f o s n o t “Sidedoor had rm. a w d n a h s e r f o s e r e bagels w sy u b r o f y ll ia c e p s e le p A breakfast sta ast f k a e r b ld e h d n a h a people needing on the run.”

ALYSE:

“Yo. I love this place. This w as first time trying the Lox and my and honestly I didn’t want to Loaded bagel share.”

1103 EAST 10TH STREET INDIANAPOLIS, IN 46202 GO FOR BREAKFAST. GET THE LOX AND LOADED BAGEL SANDWICH WITH COFFEE.

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ALYSE:

“This hole in the wall sandwich shop was a pleasant surprise! Everyone greeted us with a smile and the soups and sandwiches were the best part. I’d go back for the Greek lemon chicken and rice soup.”

O T I B U S JAY:

n “I loved the lemo ad h chicken soup. It uch the perfect to of lemon.”

34 NORTH DELAWARE STREET INDIANAPOLIS, IN 46204 GO FOR WEEKDAY LUNCH. GET THE REVELO SANDWICH WITH A CUP OF THE COUNTRY VEGETABLE SOUP AND A HOUSE BAKED CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE.

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P A R T E H T JAY:

“I loved the fact that they get their crawfish flown in FRESH. Sea broccoli, and corn is all tha food, t I need in my life.”

3355 NORTH KEYSTONE AVENUE INDIANAPOLIS, IN 46218 GO FOR LUNCH OR DINNER. GET THE LOADED ALL-SHRIMP TRAY WITH POTATOES, FRESH SWEET CORN, STEAMED BROCCOLI, AND A BOILED EGG. SAUCE IT “THE WAY CHEF LIKES,” MILD YOUNG BAE SEASONING AND ADD PARM.

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’s ya O ef h C r! vo a fl : d or w “One I butter and seasonings is all need in this life.”

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d. oo f nd a r, ne ow , f f a st g in z a “Amazing. Am o tw ed ne I . m ge en d id h a This one’s truly weeks to explore their menu.”

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“I’ve been looking for a good empanada and Che Chori did disappoint! Come for the sa not usages and stay for the gooey churr os.” 3124 WEST 16TH STREET INDIANAPOLIS, IN 46222 GO FOR LUNCH OR DINNER. GET THE EMPANADA COMBO WITH THREE EMPANADAS, HOUSE KETTLE CHIPS, AND A TEN-INCH CHURRO.

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E K I P R F N O T E L D N E P N O JAY:

“One of my favorite spots for fried seafood. Really can’t go wrong with them.”

ALYSE: 9535 PENDLETON PIKE INDIANAPOLIS, IN 46236 GO FOR LUNCH OR DINNER. GET THE CAPLINGER SPECIAL WITH TWO PIECES OF BASA ALONG WITH COLLARD GREENS AND MAC ‘N CHEESE.

! ed ri f er tt be es st ta g in th “Every s a w sh tfi a c g in m ea st y, k a The fl my favorite part.”

LESSONS FROM URBAN FARMERS AND FOOD ENTREPRENEURS DESIGN BY LEAH BRINKMAN

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A s t h e wo r l d c o n t i n u e s to g ra p p l e w i t h i s s u e s o f c l i m a t e c h a n g e , s u s t a i n a b i l i t y, a n d s o c i a l j u s t i c e , t h e i m p o r ta n c e of o u r fo o d c h o i c e s c a n n o t b e ove rs ta te d . T h e fo o d i n d u s t r y i s re s p o n s i b l e fo r a s i g n i f i c a n t p o r t i o n of g l o b a l carbon emissions, and the way in which we g row, d i s t r i b u te , a n d c o n s u m e fo o d c a n h a ve a p rofo u n d i m p a c t o n t h e h e a l t h of o u r p l a n e t a n d o u r c o m m u n i t i e s . I n re c e n t ye a rs , t h e re h a s b e e n a g row i n g m ove m e n t towa rd s s u s ta i n a b l e a g r i c u l t u re , u r b a n fa r m i n g , a n d fo o d j u s t i c e , w i t h i n d i v i d u a l s a n d c o m m u n i t i e s a ro u n d t h e wo r l d wo r k i n g to c re a te m o re e q u i ta b l e , re s i l i e n t , a n d re g e n e ra t i ve fo o d sys te m s .

I n t h i s c o l l e c t i o n of i n te r v i ews , we ex p l o re s o m e i n s p i r i n g s to r i e s f ro m t h e f ro n t l i n e s of t h i s m o v e m e n t . Fr o m u r b a n f a r m e r s a n d c o m m u n i t y a c t i v i s ts to fo o d e n t re p re n e u rs , we h e a r f ro m a d i ve rs e ra n g e of vo i c e s w h o a re wo r k i n g to t ra n sfo r m t h e wa y we p ro d u c e , d i s t r i b u te , a n d e n j oy fo o d . T h e s e s to r i e s of fe r a g l i m p s e i n to t h e p owe r of fo o d to c re a te meaningful change in our lives and in the world a ro u n d u s , a n d i n s p i re u s to ta ke a c t i o n towa rd s a m o re s u s ta i n a b l e a n d j u s t f u t u re .

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WORDS BY CORY CATHCART Access to fresh fruits and vegetables is highly circumstantial. Be it time or location, making it to a farmers’ market can be a challenge, and it’s not a given that all grocery stores have quality produce. Ultimately, these conditions make for an alarming number of food deserts in Indianapolis. Enter Community Supported Agriculture (CSA). The CSA model is at the heart of the Soul Food Project, an Indy-based nonprofit urban farm. Located in the Martindale-Brightwood neighborhood, Danielle Guerin started the Soul Food Project in 2017 with the intention of making fresh produce and education regarding food insecurity available to her community. Following grant-funded research on how to best provide produce options to her community, she determined that a CSA would be a great option. With a CSA model, the buyer pays a one-time fee upfront for a supply of weekly produce boxes for the entire growing season. Guerin is hesitant to call herself an expert in urban farming. But her ten-plus years of experience in agriculture and her commitment to changing food insecurity in Indianapolis say otherwise. Guerin is open about her struggle with depression and an eating disorder leading her to farming. It all started when her coworker asked her to come along to volunteer on an urban farm off 38th and Capitol Ave. Guerin says she had heard that putting one’s hands in dirt can be a good cure for depression, and she was trying to rebuild her relationship with food. “I was like, ‘Sure. The medicine’s not working, so let’s try this,’” Guerin says with a bit of a laugh.

That opportunity propelled her into a decade of agriculture and sustainability-focused learning. S he studied public affairs in graduate school, joined the peace corps in Cameroon as a farm and agribusiness advisor, and eventually started the Soul Food Project. When Guerin started the Soul Food Project, there were initially naysayers who told her that Black people wouldn’t spend money on local produce. Guerin doubted that, and acquired another grant to research on how her community would engage with an urban garden. She ran both a farmstand and a CSA concurrently to see what would be a better fit. The CSA option made more sense for Guerin’s urban farm and community. People want ease, and that’s what a CSA provides. “People want to eat healthier, but it gets a little overwhelming. With a CSA you get what you get, and you don’t have to think about it. You just come pick it up and you’re happy to get your veggies,” Guerin says. The Soul Food Project’s CSA includes a weekly newsletter that provides information about each week’s box. Recipes, the week’s vegetables, and storing instructions are emailed out before box pickup day. Each box contains green and root vegetables along with herbs and seasonal picks. “We changed it to Soul Food Project because food can feed your soul and education can feed your soul as well,” Guerin says.

While Guerin is dedicated to teaching her community about quality food and farming, she also wants people to know that food insecurity is a man-made problem. Rather than calling an urban area where it is difficult to find quality and fresh food a food desert, Guerin refers to these areas as food apartheid. Creating awareness that food deserts don’t just happen, but they are systematically created by the effect of redlining and systematic policies—or lack thereof—is part of Guerin’s outlook. “The problem is more that the government has created policies that make it hard for grocery places and restaurants to survive in these neighborhoods,” Guerin says. “It’s not that they don’t want to be there. It’s been made difficult to be there.” Guerin works with different organizations that are working to reform policy—which is a key part of changing the way food is accessed in Indianapolis. Guerin has worked with organizations like the Indianapolis Office of Public Health and Safety, which operates the Division of Community Nutrition & Food Policy, and she is also involved with the Equitable Food Access Initiative, funded by Anthem Foundation and City of Indianapolis. Although there are organizations working to change policy, Guerin says not much has changed over the course of her farming experience. She says that people in the community have great ideas, but then about five years later, the same ideas are being proposed. “The longer you’re in the food system here in Indianapolis, the more you see the same conversations,” Guerin says. In the future, Guerin hopes to bring in more of her own revenue rather than relying too much on grants. She says that often people assume that nonprofit farms can’t be profitable, but she disagrees. Guerin believes she can bring in revenue in other ways and as a result have more freedom to focus her energy on what really matters. ✂

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PRIVATE CHEF. URBAN FARMER. SUSTAINABILITY ADVOCATE. R i g h t of f C e n t ra l Ave n u e , s a n d w i c h e d b e t we e n H e r ro n M o r to n a n d t h e O l d Northside, Jason Michael Thomas is i n v i t i n g yo u to ta ke a s e a t a t h i s ow n d i n n e r t a b l e . Ta k i n g h i m u p o n t h e o f f e r will lead you to a one-of-a-kind evening, i n c l u d i n g a to u r of h i s g ro u n d s , a m u l t i c o u rs e m e a l c o m p l e te w i t h f re s h i n g re d i e n ts , a n d p l e n t y of w i n e . I t ’s a d i n i n g e x p e r i e n c e u n l i k e a n y o t h e r i n I n d i a n a p o l i s . T h o m a s ’ fa r m - to - ta b l e m e a l s i n c l u d e p ro d u c e g row n j u s t a h u n d re d fe e t a wa y a t h i s u r b a n fa r m , w h e re f r u i t t re e s , h e r b s , a n d ove r s i x t y va r i e t i e s of to m a to e s s p r i n g to l i fe e a c h y e a r. A m a z i n g l y, n o t a s i n g l e s c r a p g o e s to waste. Thomas is intentional, locally s o u rc i n g e a c h i n g re d i e n t a n d e n s u r i n g h e t a k e s c a r e o f h i s s h a r e o f t h e e a r t h . H e ’s a l wa ys l o o k i n g fo r o p p o r t u n i t i e s to s h a re h i s k n ow l e d g e w i t h o t h e rs a n d c a n of te n b e s p o t t e d d o i n g s o o n W i s h T V. I w a n t e d t h e i n - p e rs o n ex p e r i e n c e t h o u g h , s o I d ro p p e d by T h o m a s ’ k i tc h e n to h e a r a b o u t h i s p r i va te d i n n e rs , p a s s i o n fo r s u s t a i n a b i l i t y, a n d e x p e r i e n c e s b r i n g i n g e n v i r o n m e n t a l a w a r e n e s s t o t h e c i t y.

WORDS BY KATIE FREEMAN PORTRAIT BY ESTHER BOSTON IMAGES COURTESY OF JASON MICHAEL THOMAS

KATIE FREEMAN: Your sustainability journey started after recognizing the inherent flaws within the industrial food model. What are those, and what are you doing to combat them? JASON MICHAEL THOMAS: There are so many. The industrialization that we have gone through in the past one hundred years has been so intense. We've developed these incredible technologies that allow us to manipulate the planet to fulfill our desires. That and the restaurant industry, in and of itself, is completely and totally unsustainable. We need to use that knowledge and technology to empower nature to let us as humans be a part of nature. If we encourage it and we help it, it will continue to sustain our human life on this planet. One problem is food waste. In the restaurant industry, so much food is thrown away. I have a zero-waste policy here, which everyone at the farm follows. In the past, we have fed our scraps to chickens. We make compost with everything else, so there is no waste. If you throw organic matter in the trash, you're wasting it. The soil health suffers because of it, causing reliance on petroleum products and chemicals. So I am actively improving soil quality on the small part of land we grow food on. We put down wood chips and replaced grass with clover and other nitrogen-fixing plants. The soil here is black, and that’s what you want. Another problem is using foods that are unsustainable. The food that I use for all of my events is sustainably grown and raised by people that I know. I support local agriculture and farmers that I know do it the right way.

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These farmers practice regenerative agriculture, which improves the quality of the soil. The industrial model is often guilty of removing nutrients from the soil and not putting them back. But I have a lot of hope, so I don't want to sound doom and gloom. I think we're becoming aware that we are poisoning the planet, and I think a lot of people want to stop doing that. KF: Do you feel a difference, physically or mentally, from eating a homegrown and locally-sourced diet? JMT: Honestly, I don't know. What I know is that I'm older and wiser now, and I feel fucking fantastic. I feel great. Most people think I'm in my thirties, and I'm fifty-one.

KF: Okay, I would have never guessed that! JMT: Right? So I talk about things that happened over twenty-five years ago, and people say, “You must have been ten.” No, I was in my twenties when I began growing my own food. People are always shocked. I've always exercised. I believe diet and exercise are the two most important things for your health.

KF: They’re definitely great habits to have—as is your zero-waste policy. Though everything on the farm is used, is there anything you find yourself reaching for first? JMT: It depends what season it is. This winter has been wonderful because I have figured out ways to keep certain things alive, and that's exciting for me. We have a nice row of Swiss chard covered in leaves and plastic

that is still yielding fresh greens despite the crazy cold temperatures. I still have ridiculous amounts of fresh herbs. Those are two things that I use all the time. In the summertime—tomatoes. All kinds of fruit. Berries, raspberries, honeyberries. We're planting elderberry and blackcurrants this year. We have twenty fruit trees—anything that I can pull off the tree and put in a beautiful dish. All produce is better when you pick it the day that you're going to use it. When it's ripe, it's got that incredible flavor. KF: Tomatoes especially! I grew up in Southern Indiana, and those were always a summertime staple. But it feels a little different living in the city. Are there any plants you recommend for someone who wants to start a garden here in Indy but doesn’t have much time or space? JMT: They should choose something they absolutely love that is useful. Then I would think about things that are really easy and difficult to kill. Garlic is one of those plants that is pretty hard to get rid of once you start planting it. Berry bushes are wonderful if you've got a

fun and beautiful thing. It is my goal to provide a sustainable model for the food industry. I think it'd be so cool if there were urban farms around big cities; one hundred percent of local food grown by people that you know. KF: Could you walk me through your private dining experience?

little bit of space—just keep one good berry bush going, and train it to grow up. And yes, tomatoes are huge. In fact, twenty-five years ago, the flavor of a tomato I grew myself is what sent me on this journey. And you can use those tomatoes year-round. I make a lot of sauce and freeze it, or I freeze whole cherry tomatoes in a Ziploc bag. I can put them in a pan and sear them off with some pasta, and it tastes like summertime. They're perfect. KF: That’s a great tip. And twenty-five years is a long time to have been growing your own food. Did having your own farm lead you to offer farm-to-table private dining? JMT: The farm started seventeen years ago. I got really excited about growing all these items, and then I realized I had an opportunity to do more. We’ve been doing these private dinners for a long time, but it started slowly. At first, I didn't push really hard because I was doing other things as well. Then, I partnered up with other people in the food industry, and it became a

JMT: I like to start with a tour, especially in the summertime. I walk people around the grounds and show them the hundreds of things we grow. It's staggering when you look at all the different herbs, all the different tomatoes, and the fruit trees. I can pick things that I’m going to prepare with the meal. That gets people excited—sometimes they help pick too. I do dinners outside under lighted tents if the weather is cooperating. It’s glorious around sunset. People enjoy that experience, being outside among all the plants. Typically we'll do between three and seven courses. I don't do less than three. Most people opt for more, which I love. I like doing a variety of smaller dishes with different wine pairings and tastings. It's a laid-back, unfussy atmosphere. But the food is elegant, and the atmosphere is unparalleled. KF: Do you ever offer your dinners offsite?

organized. You can't forget anything. I don't mind doing it, but it's additional work, so I charge a hefty fee to leave the farm. KF: Obviously, there’s a ton of thought and skill that goes into making these dinners happen. But there’s an element of hospitality at play, too. What is it like providing such an intimate experience to virtual strangers in your own home? JMT: I would say that it is joyful. It really is. I've met so many wonderful people by doing these dinners. Actually, I screen my clients pretty heavily. If they sound like the type of people that don't belong here, they're not getting through the screening process. I have told people who were willing to pay that I'm not the right chef for them. I need to feel the connection with people that I really want to connect with. I've met so many amazing people. We basically become friends. I tell them to use me as a network and use my knowledge to help them ramp up their sustainability. KF: Other than leftovers—if there are any—what do you hope guests take home from an evening with you? JMT: A passion for nature and a passion for being a part of nature, as well as respect and stewardship for the planet. ✂

JMT: You’d call that catering, I suppose, but yeah. I charge extra for that. I think it's much better here at the farm. Everything is here for me, and it's much easier. Going off-site requires prepping at an earlier stage. We have to take everything to the location and be really

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WORDS BY ANNE LAKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JES NIJJER

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SHERRITA

MANAGER OF FOOD & HEALTH EQUITY | CENTERS OF WELLNESS FOR URBAN WOMEN G row i n g u p i n S t . Lo u i s , S h e r r i ta N i l e s h e l p e d h e r g ra n d m o t h e r u s e b a ke d g o o d s t o g a t h e r c o m m u n i t y. “ I r e m e m b e r setting up events in the neighborhood a n d l o c a l p a r ks a n d t h e j oy s u r ro u n d i n g t h e ex p e r i e n c e . I h a ve n eve r s e e n a t i m e w h e re fo o d wa s a va i l a b l e a n d p e o p l e didn’t show up.” A s M a n a g e r o f Fo o d a n d H e a l t h E q u i t y a t t h e C e n t e r s o f We l l n e s s f o r U r b a n Wo m e n ( C W U W ) i n I n d i a n a p o l i s , N i l e s s u p p o r ts i n n ova to rs l eve ra g i n g fo o d to b o o s t l e a r n i n g , c u l t u re , h e a l t h , a n d j u s t i c e t h r o u g h C W U W ’s N e i g h b o r h o o d Fo o d C h a m p i o n s p r o g r a m . C W U W e n c o u ra g e s p ro j e c ts t h a t fo c u s o n p ro v i d i n g q u a l i t y fo o d o p t i o n s , e n s u r i n g fo o d a c c e s s a n d fo o d s e c u r i t y t o p e o p l e who need it most. The community b u i l d e rs re c e i ve f u n d i n g , m e n to rs h i p , and an instant network of women doing g o o d t h ro u g h fo o d . ANNE LAKER: What kind of work do the Centers for Wellness for Urban Women do at the intersection of food and wellness? SHERRITA NILES: CWUW empowers women to make healthy decisions for themselves and their families for lifelong health and wellness. Our focus areas are food access, food security, urban agriculture, and nutrition and health. About 200,000 Marion County residents live in a neighborhood identified as a food desert. Only four percent of us have access to a grocery store within a five-minute walk—which makes Indianapolis one of the worst cities in the nation for food access. So food is a serious subject in our city.

AL: You and I met when we were helping our mutual friend Synergy develop a project around food justice. How did you arrive at this place on your journey with food and community? SN: My personal belief: Food is a right, not a privilege. As a transplant to Indy by way of St. Louis, “food deserts” was not a familiar term to me. Where I am from, there are grocery options everywhere and there is ample accessible public transportation to get you there. But I have been involved with community education for preparing healthy meals using items from local food pantries, conducting healthy food demos at community events, hosting informationals on eating for wellness, and preparing my own herbal wellness tea blends for family, friends, and neighbors [Niles is also a creative strategist and artist].

AL: What can people do to help with or get involved with these issues? SN: Follow our Food Builders and learn about what they do and what they have to offer. So much of what they do is beneficial to the general public. CWUW is always seeking volunteers to assist with several programs. Our Builders span the city and are even in some areas outside of Indianapolis. Many have expressed a need for more assistance with technical tasks such as administration, marketing, social media, transportation, as well as those who can put their hands to work. Anyone interested can reach Sherrita at: sherrita@cwuwonline.org.

AL: Tell me about the Neighborhood Food Champions program, started in 2017. SN: Neighborhood Food Champions are local food access entrepreneurs, grassroots projects, community organizations and nonprofits creating innovative concepts to overcome food insecurities. I am impressed by the level of creativity and dedication to their neighborhoods and communities. AL: What’s your most memorable personal story of the power of food to bring people together? SN: For me food is life! Of course we need it to sustain us but it also enhances our life experiences. Food is love, food is joy, food is language spoken by all. My grandmother passed those values on to me. She loved making people happy through food. I find myself using food to build connections in the community, in business and in my life!

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SUSAN BARONCINIEXECUTIVE COACH | AUTHOR | PHILANTHROPIST

As a longtime gardener and food forager, Susan Baroncini-Moe became a Neighborhood Food Champions builder with an idea to create an educational food foraging garden. “I cultivate a number of plants on my home property that are frequently considered ‘weeds,’ but that are very safe and highly nutritious foods that we’ve long forgotten, as people have become more and more reliant upon supermarkets. I got into food-related causes because I thought, ‘Other people should know that they can eat these weeds because they’re growing practically everywhere, they’re tasty, and they’re good for you!’ But once she learned more about the challenges in the local food system, her scope widened. “I saw a need to start The Baroncini-Moe Food Foundation [susanbaroncini-moe.com] … to shift our attention toward helping community gardens and urban farms to find affordable land, possibly even creating a land bank solely for this purpose.”

*NOT PICTURED

“It’s incredibly frustrating to me that we live in such an abundant society, and yet there are so many people who are food insecure,” says Baronconi-Moe. Among the food deserts, there are “food swamps,” where convenience stores and fast food are plentiful, but there is “no real access to healthy and nutritious foods. People who live in food deserts and food swamps tend to live shorter, unhealthier lives. “When people gain access to healthy foods that nourish the body and brain, they can think better, move better, be more productive. I was honestly floored when I saw the many ways that food access and food sovereignty can transform lives and empower people to perform at much higher levels,” she says.

MAME

FOUNDER | TOUBA GARDENS Touba Gardens is an urban learning garden and 4-H Club in the Reagan Park neighborhood, smack in the middle of a food desert. In the Islamic faith, tuoba is the name of a tree in paradise. “My family originated from the south,” says founder Mame Bousso. “Growing up, each relative had a farm or a garden. We hardly went to the grocery store to buy produce and many of the men were hunters and fishermen. That’s how I learned the great value, fabulous gift, and powerful benefits of growing your own food.” Bousso passes those values down through summer farm jobs and food system internships. “Children have to be taught how to eat properly,” she says. “Living in a food desert puts many at risk for developing lifethreatening health conditions.” The antidote? Learning where food comes from. One youth group Bousso coached were “involved in every step: crop planning, building the soil, planting, fertilizing and weeding, and harvesting.” The resulting watermelon crop generated glee and pride. 108

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In summer 2021, Bousso hosted a TeenWorks cohort. “Many of them weren’t familiar with growing food, planting flowers or doing lawn care. I recall one young lady being scared of worms. The teens gained insight about how to grow food from seeds and starter plants, how to tell beneficial insects from crop predators,” and also about the environmental impacts of chemicals on the food system. The teens also volunteered at three local food pantries. “The experience gave them a different take on life. One young lady attested to how working in nature helped her to overcome issues with anxiety. Another overcame shyness by being put in a leadership role, and the one who was scared of worms overcame that fear, as well.” Touba Gardens in Indy has a sister that Boussa is also involved with: a youth-run garden in Senegal with the same name, specializing in papayas.

DEANDRA

FOUNDER & CEO | A LEARNING BEE ACADEMY It turns out that chickens have a lot to teach preschoolers. “A Learning Bee Academy is a STEMbased preschool where we introduce science, technology, engineering/entrepreneurship, and mathematics skills through hands-on learning,” says founder Deandra Thompson. She attests that adding a school garden and chicken coops to the curriculum has improved kids’ cognitive and social skills. “For example, for those students who may be having a hard time adjusting, we use ‘time-in’ and have them work with our cook in the garden, or tend to the chickens a little bit longer.”

Our future plans include growing enough food to sell at farmer’s markets or even as food subscription boxes as a fundraiser,” says Thompson. As an educator, Thompson is a witness to the way food can transform people. “Our program helps improve family eating habits by introducing them to food in a fun and imaginative way. We see it transform our parents by paying closer attention to what their children eat and participating more in their child’s education at the most critical time of their lives.”

The Neighborhood Food Champions program helped Thompson start the gardens and coops when A Learning Bee opened in 2017, and it came to the rescue when the school garden suffered a freeze in 2020. “We were able to purchase two hydroponic gardening systems for indoor use. The award also helped offset the cost of cooking seminars with parents.

CANDACE BOYD

DIRECTOR OF FOOD JUSTICE | FLANNER HOUSE OF INDIANAPOLIS CO-HOST | BLACK GIRLS EATING PODCAST On Indy’s near Northwest side, Flanner House has been in the business of enriching quality of life for over 125 years. “We have a farm, shared kitchen, grocery store (Cleo’s Bodega) and cafe, and we operate a mobile bodega all on our campus,” says Boyd Simmons. Through the Neighborhood Food Champions, Flanner House has been able to upgrade farm equipment, purchase more seed varieties, and expand the FEED program (Farming, Education, Employment, and Distribution)—aimed at youth ages 16-24, who have experienced hurdles like chronic unemployment, engagement in the legal system, learning disabilities, or the lack of a GED.

When people are fed, and fed well, you see where joy can exist.” Boyd Simmons’ whole life is deliciously food-centric. “I always tell people that I started cooking because the kitchen is where all the things happen. My dad tells the story that I fried my first egg at age six and the rest is history. I started my food blog [foodlovetog.com] in 2013. From that I began doing on-air TV work, cooking classes, a spice business, and a podcast [@blackgirlseating]. All and all, food has remained at the center.” ✂

“Food justice work is not for the faint of heart,” says Boyd Simmons: “It is a commitment to seeing that all people receive the tools that they need to eat and live well. The barriers exist, but I’m committed to knocking those walls down. I know that when people can shop in a well-lit, well-stocked, comparably priced grocery store, their quality of life improves.

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PLAY FOOD with your

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKAELA HELANE ASSISTED BY OLIVIA KELTY CREATIVE DIRECTION BY KATIE FREEMAN FOOD STYLED BY OLIVE HEINECKE STYLING ASSISTANT EMILY COY MAKEUP BY LORENA SOMERS HAIR BY JENNA FRITTS HAIR AND MAKEUP ASSISTANT SIDNEY WHARFF MODELS ADELAINE J. AND CHLOE H. (HEYMAN TALENT AGENCY) DESIGN BY JULIE MAKEPEACE

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I SHOULD HAVE WORN BOOTS. A few minutes before this realization, a strip of marshy grass allowed for a walk onto the tidal flats where the Hamma Hamma River flows out of the Olympic Mountains into Hood Canal. After lingering to snap some photos of seals and snow caps, my Midwestern pals and I quickly found ourselves on less-than-solid ground. It was December in Washington, and an early snow had threatened to upend our visit to Hama Hama Oyster Company. The drive on Route 101 along the western edge of the fjord is breathtaking—though a little hair-raising in a snowstorm—with dense stands of Douglas fir giving way to sheer cliffs, and high mountain passes bearing signs about falling trees. We made it to our destination though, and with my socks now thoroughly saturated in the frigid Pacific, we hopped from patch to patch of marsh grass toward the Hama Hama Oyster Saloon. Tides have a mystical quality to those of us hailing from points inland, and even our hosts at the oyster farm, who live and work in rhythm with the sea, seem to find these movements sacred rather than mundane. An oyster embodies these forces. It constructs itself, as it has for millions of years, from the primordial dust that washes out of the mountains and floats in on the tides. To eat one is to taste the essence of a place. A particular coastline. A particular puddle somewhere on that coastline. They’re also salty and make a great bar snack.

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As we slurped through plates of Hama Hamas and Blue Pools in a lean-to by the water, we dried our feet over a butane heater and chatted with Lauren McCool, Oyster Educator and Director of Wholesale at Hama Hama, about life on the water and how there’s never been a better time to be an oyster lover. An oyster is a bivalve, a mollusk that lives in a shell consisting of two hinged parts. Its only choices in life are “open” to feed on phytoplankton or “closed” to avoid predators and seal itself from the air at low tide. It lives to build its shell and spawn and stores energy in the form of glycogen to get through the winter and reproduce in the summer. A single oyster can filter more than forty gallons of seawater a day. A healthy oyster population indicates a healthy ecosystem, and producers who grow and harvest them for sale are natural advocates for ocean stewardship. From an environmental standpoint, growing oysters is a restorative process, and they’re among the most sustainable seafood choices you can make. As a food, oysters are unapproachable. From their rocky shells to their slippery texture—they weren’t designed by food scientists for mass consumption. Few foods require so much effort for so few calories. Yet humans have been eating them for millennia, drawn to the beauty of the seashore and the promise of protein that can’t run or swim away. Once initiated, many people become fans for life, drawn by the flavors that make each one unique and by a certain life force that can be hard to describe and hard to distinguish from the other serotonin-boosting activities we engage in while eating them: laughing with friends, dinner with a partner, drinks in a moody bar. A first oyster experience often begins with a nudge; someone who enjoys them persuades a friend to give one a go. There is plenty of pomp and folk knowledge swirling around about how to eat them. Some of it carries the ring of truth and some is confusing and easy to dispel. With this in mind, I’d like to offer a user guide for the modern oyster fan.

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IDENTIFYING A GREAT OYSTER A well-sourced and properly shucked oyster will have an opaque, plump meat that mostly fills its shell and glistens in its liquor. “Liquor” is the term for the seawater that surrounds the oyster in its shell. An oyster’s mantle, its outer edge where it builds its shell, can vary in color from light to dark depending on its species and other factors.

An oyster is a food, like an apple. Some come from excellent heirloom stock, are picked for market at exactly the right time, and culled to high standards. Others may be out of season, have poor texture or lack flavor. Many grow wild, and taste like it, for better or worse. They taste best within a few days of harvesting, but will last a couple weeks in the fridge. They’re perfect on their own, but you can add sauces or cook with them.

IDENTIFYING A NOT-SO-GREAT OYSTER An oyster shouldn’t be dry or shriveled, though some will have more liquor than others. At certain points in its growth cycle, like after spawning or depleting its energy reserves over the winter, an oyster can appear translucent or clear. At this stage it is little more than a bag of seawater—it won’t hurt you, but it won’t taste great. Oysters in the process of spawning will soften in texture and taste gamey or creamy. While eating a spawny oyster also won’t hurt you, most people don’t find it very appealing. Spawning occurs when water temperatures rise in summer.

IDENTIFYING A DEAD OYSTER Oysters are alive when you eat them—but never fear, they don’t feel pain or have a central nervous system. A live oyster smells like a fresh sea breeze. A dead oyster smells, well, dead, and is easily identified without having to get close to it. It is also typically discolored, dark grey to black, however some perfectly healthy specimens can have a grey cast to them. Let smell be your guide. If you’re sourcing fresh oysters from reputable retailers you won’t come across many dead ones, but occasionally one might make it to your shucking table. A reputable restaurant would never serve you a dead oyster, if you happen to receive one, send it back, settle up for your drinks and go somewhere else for dinner.

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TO EAT AN OYSTER Pick it up in its shell and slurp it from the wide side, meat, liquor and all. Some people like to smell the oyster, like wine, or take a little sip of the liquor before eating it. It’s okay to leave some liquor in the shell. You will occasionally hear that you shouldn’t chew oysters and just swallow them whole. There are varying accounts of where this “common knowledge” came from, but rest assured, you should chew your oysters. You won’t really taste them if you just swallow them. By chewing you’ll unlock all of its nuances—often a blast of brine up front, then cucumber or mushroom, then a finish like a sweet buttery scallop. Many people like to flip the shell over and set it back down on its bed of ice. This is a nice way to admire their different shell patterns, and indicate to your server when you’re finished.

HOW THEY TASTE Oysters vary in flavor depending on their species, the season, and where and how they’re grown. In general though, they taste like the sea. Eastern oysters are ideally firm in texture with subtle flavors of minerals, root vegetables, mushrooms, and butter. Pacific oysters have a pronounced cucurbit note that can vary from cucumber to melon rind, often accompanied by grassy, herbaceous, earthy, and metallic flavors. They tend to be softer in texture than Easterns. The Kumamoto is closely related to the Pacific, with less earthy astringency and more fruit, making them beloved by novice oyster eaters and veterans alike. ✂

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A Feast for the Eyes A STYLISH INTERPRETATION OF NATURE'S BOUNTY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS WHONSETLER FOOD STYLED BY ASHLEY BROOKS ASSISTED BY KATIE FREEMAN

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A M e al

of Fresh Oc top us

Lo ts of arms, j us t like

K an n on the Goddess; S a c rific e d for me,

ga rnish e d w ith c i tron, I re ve re i t so!

The taste of the se a, j us t di v in e!

S orry, Bu ddha, this is an o the r p recept I j us t ca n n o t ke e p.

—Ikk y u S o j un

True G ooseb errie s They may b e

bitter at first taste.

Bu t wh en we drink wate r the y taste s we e t.

S o like

bitter tru th s! Whe n the y are

gently con vey e d by a l ove d on e

the y are a c tu ally quite s we e t.

—R.G.K a imal

Tw o M ore Pa p a ya s I se e the m first.

Tw o gre en th u mb s that w i ll gro w into

oran ge- y ell o w delights s melling of su m mer. M i ddl e s we e t

b e twe en a ma ng o and a p e ar. Soft as a ya m g liding dow n

afte r th re e e asy,

th ri lling ch e w s.

—Tha n hha La i

PATTERN VOLUME NO. 23

Oran ge s

I p e ele d m y oran ge

That wa s so bright ag a inst The gra y of De ce mb er

That, f ro m some dista n ce,

S o meon e might ha ve th ou ght I wa s ma king a fire in m y hands. —G ary S o to

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OP-ED

BITE-SIZED THOUGHTS BY EDIBLE INDY Photograph by Marissa Molloy

WHEN MY HUSBAND AND I PURCHASED EDIBLE INDY TEN YEARS AGO, the term farm-to-table was a modish term defined as supporting and sourcing local products from local producers and artisans. Fresh tomatoes for the summer, meat sourced from Indiana farmers, locally crafted cheeses from goats or cows noshing on the Hoosier landscape, organic yogurt in recycled glass jars produced on a modest farm, grapes grown throughout the state for Indiana wines and a hops farm with resident water buffalos all indicative of the word local. The fifteen or so farm-to-table restaurants at that time showcased local ingredients on menus and chalk boards to the astonishment of patrons and the thought of food sourced from people and places we may know and trust warmed our hearts. FAST FORWARD TEN YEARS AND THE TERMS FARM-TO-TABLE AND LOCAL are exhausted and diluted. It is often times used in marketing to lure people to big box brands claiming their support of sustainable and local businesses. Is that true, not entirely. Is it false? That’s up to you to decide. What I do know is our beautiful and vibrant Midwestern community has been unbelievably gracious in creating and molding partnerships with so many local artisans, producers, farmers and chefs and the term local is true to form with so many of these businesses and today it is expected to partner with local vendors. AS WITH LIFE CYCLES, THE LAST FEW YEARS ALLOW THE IMPORTANCE OF SUPPORTING LOCAL WHILE giving thoughtfulness to where our precious money is spent to shine. The landscape of food has shifted and as with any cycle, some things survive while others do not. It is never easy to see things we love close, however, as the old adage says, when one door closes, another opens. IN EVERY POCKET OF CENTRAL INDIANA THERE ARE SPOTS TO TRAVEL AND DIVE IN THAT ARE TRULY LOCAL. Places often not found on an Eater list or where travel writers may go - places that have no PR team or budget to tell the world about the delights they can bring to those who experience it. OUR REGION HAS VAST POCKETS AND PLACES TO EMBRACE, SOME BITE-SIZED, OTHERS FEATURED IN The New York Times, Condé Nast and perhaps in our own Edible Indy. Lavender fields bloom in Mooresville, bath loofahs made from locally grown squash show up at local farmers’ markets, a morel mushroom festival brings tourist from all over, stellar pastry chefs with sell out pop-ups are found on social media, while house-made pasta from a local pasta maker is available to take home and make a delectable meal showing the depth of the experience available in our backyard. STEPPING BACK AND REALIGNING OUR PRIORITIES HAVE MADE US A BETTER COMMUNITY. CONVERSATIONS over a cup of coffee or cocktails and deliberately savoring each moment has made a resurgence. The industry has forever changed. We found out what life was like when you couldn’t always find bread and resorted to making it at home or what happens when the chicken you eat is not available and the eggs are three times what was budgeted. Businesses pivoted and people reevaluated what was important and local saved the day. Now it is our time to save local, one meal at a time. JENNIFER L. RUBENSTEIN is the owner, publisher, and editor-in-chief of the Edible Indy creating stories on the food movement in print, online and through social media. Follow them on social @edibleindy or visit EdibleIndy.com for their latest issue and storytelling.

JENNIFER L. RUBENSTEIN PUBLISHER EDIBLE INDY

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I N D I A N A EC O N O M I C D E V E LO P M E N T C O R P

2023

WHAT young COMPANY IN YOUR BACKYARD

IS MAKING community MORE VIBRANT AND/OR adding GOOD JOBS? Scan below to N O M I N AT E T H E M TO DAY.

AAROUND SURPRISE EVERY TURN Indy was named one of “America’s Next Great Food Cities” by Food & Wine magazine thanks to restaurants like Modita which serves Asian-inspired dishes that taste anything but landlocked. Give Indy a weekend and discover for yourself.

Start Planning at VISITINDY.com