PATTERN Magazine Fall 2020 Vol. 18 by PATTERN Magazine

REFORM/REROOM TAKE YOUR ROOM FROM EW! TO OOH LA LA! MYKBDHOME.COM

EDITOR’S LETTER

THERE’S ALWAYS A SILVER LINING

2020 HAS BEEN THE YEAR OF THE UNEXPECTED, A YEAR RIDDLED BY LOSS,

strife and uncertainty. But there’s always a silver lining, isn’t there? On the upside, this year helped many of us see that we don’t have to be afraid of change, that embracing it can make us infinitely better. IT’S HARD TO THINK OF A BETTER CHAMPION FOR POSITIVE TRANSFORMATION than Tamara Zahn, a beloved civic leader who spent her career sculpting our city’s cultural landscape and supporting people and organizations that make Indianapolis a better place. WE WERE JUST PUTTING THE FINISHING TOUCHES ON THIS ISSUE OF PATTERN magazine — an issue that is all about cultural and social evolution — when we received word of Tamara’s death. This loss feels profoundly personal to people who had the privilege of working with her, including me. I GOT TO KNOW TAMARA WHEN PATTERN WAS JUST A START-UP. AT THE TIME, SHE WAS STILL SERVING AS president of Downtown Indy, Inc., where she was among the first local leaders to see potential in what we hoped to accomplish. She enthusiastically endorsed us, and after stepping down from her role there, she joined our advisory board. FOR THE PAST TWO YEARS, TAMARA SERVED AS PRESIDENT OF PATTERN’S BOARD OF DIRECTORS, GUIDING ME, talking me off the ledge, helping me see the long view when things didn’t go well. She streamlined PATTERN board meetings and brought people together to solve common problems. IN SITUATIONS THAT COULD HAVE BEEN EXPLOSIVE, TAMARA HAD THE HUMILITY TO STEP IN AND BE UNRUFFLED. Her calming presence brought wisdom, diplomacy and civility to difficult conversations, elevating our city’s ability to get things done, to get past differences, to bridge factions. In my view, these bedrock, Midwestern attributes help Indianapolis achieve things other cities struggle to accomplish. PART OF TAMARA’S LEGACY IS THE GIFT OF OPTIMISM, A GIFT SHE WOULD WANT US TO KEEP SPREADING AS we have in this issue of PATTERN magazine. Our team of contributors bring you a volume that memorializes shared experiences during the pandemic and documents ways in which the world is making long overdue changes. At last, there’s wider recognition of the racial injustice that is so deeply entrenched within our country’s structure and culture. It feels like a galactic epiphany that could finally disrupt and maybe even begin to heal our brokenness.

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AFTER MARKING OUR CITY’S TH ANNIVERSARY THIS SUMMER, INDIANAPOLIS MAY FACE UNEXPECTED hardship, but we are surrounded by possibilities and assets.

VOLUME 8 HIGHLIGHTS INHERENTLY HOPEFUL PEOPLE WHO REMIND YOU THAT ART AND CREATIVE ENERGY have power in the world, that as long as you live, you can reimagine, reinvent and reassemble what is true and real about yourself and the world around you. WITHIN THESE PAGES, I HOPE YOU’LL FIND INSPIRATION TO VOTE YOUR CONSCIENCE, TO CREATE YOUR VISION, and to reform anything in your sphere that calls out for improvement.

POLINA OSHEROV_EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

PHOTO ©BENJAMIN BLEVINS

PATTERN VOLUME NO. 18

TZ In memory of Tamara Zahn, 1953-2020. MENTOR. FRIEND. ADVOCATE. VISIONARY.

FASHIONING A COMMUNITY

BRAND PARTNERSHIPS info@patternindy.com

DISTRIBUTION

Distributed worldwide by Publishers Distribution Group, Inc. pdgmags.com Printed by Fineline Printing, Indianapolis, IN USA PATTERN Magazine ISSN 2326-6449 is Proudly made in Indianapolis, Indiana

DIGITAL

Online Content Manager Samantha Ripperger

BOARD OF DIRECTORS Michael Ault Alan Bacon Teresa Bennett Julie Heath Freddie Lockett Lindsey Macyauski Sara Savu Lily Smith Adam Thies Barry Wormser Tamara Zahn

SUBSCRIPTION

Visit patternindy.com/subscribe Back issues, permissions, reprints info@patternindy.com

PATTERN VOLUME NO. 18

EDITORIAL

Editor & Creative Director Polina Osherov Design Director Emeritus Kathy Davis Design Director Lindsay Hadley New York Editor Janette Beckman Copy Editors Emily Kibling Jessie Hansell Staff Photographer Esther Boston

DESIGNERS

Megan Gray John Ilang-Ilang Julie Makepeace

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Reagan Allen Willyum Baulkey Loreal Elder Michael Cottone Chloe Gianna Qa’Derious “Q” Jenkins Julian J. Jones Francis Nwosu Polina Osherov Amanda Reynolds Linda Vang Lenny White Christopher Whonsetler Callie Zimmerman

WRITERS

Evelyn Auer Ebony Chappel Malina Simone Crystal Hammon Carolyn Hadlock Denise Herd Khaila King Adrian Matejka Moriah Miller Lauren Oosterlinck Monica Sallay

STYLISTS

Sariah Borom Daria Johnson Cena Macklin Samantha Ripperger Nicole Tenerowicz Laura Walters Taylor Zielinski

RETOUCHER

Wendy Towle

INTERNS

Design Hannah Gardner Alyson Love Emily Wright Photography Jake Moran Jeanie Stehr Styling Mackie Schroeter Writing Alyseah Ruggs Cory Cathcart

CONTENTS PATTERN ISSUE NO. 18 patternindy.com

WORDS EDITOR’S LETTER, 2 CONTRIBUTORS, 8 100 YEARS, 20 Q+A LEVI ALEXANDER PORTILLO, 24 SUNNYSIDE UP, 28 HARRISON CENTER TAKES ON COVID, 41 PROTEST ART, 42 HOOP SKIRTS, 48 GREATRIARCHS, 54 Q+A KENG XIONG, 64 INDY THROUGH THREADS, 71 ALL DRESSED UP, 78 STITCHWORKS, 96 FANNY SO FAB, 110 CREATING A NEW SCHOOL OF THOUGHT ABOUT EQUITY, 116 Q+A FAITH BLACKWELL, 126 OP-ED, 16

IMAGES CHANGE AGENT, 10 PROTEST ART, 100 MASKARADE, 120 RETRO STATE OF MIND, 128 NOIR ET BLANC, 134 COWGIRLS DON’T CRY, 142 OVERSIZED, 150 ON THE COVER Christoper Marrs (10 MGMT) Photography by Julian J. Jones Assisted by Chris Newell & Diego Guerra Style by Taylor Zielinski Style Assistant: Jamar Mitchell Makeup by Nikki Brown Vest, Pangea Hooded Mask, James Langford ON THIS PAGE Joey Rose (Heyman Agency) Photography by Polina Osherov Assisted by Samantha Ripperger, & Jeanie Stehr Style by Laura Walters Style Assistant: Mackie Schroeter Makeup by Chie Sharp Hair by Philip Salmon Retouch by Wendy Towle Blazer, Balenciaga Bralette, Urban Outfitters Pants, J Wanderson

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CONTRIBUTORS

THE WORLD WOULD BE A BETTER PLACE IF...

ADRIAN MATEJKA ...WE ALL READ POETRY AS A FORM OF ENTERTAINMENT. Adrian Matejka served as Poet Laureate of Indiana in 20182019. He is the author of four collections of poetry including Map to the Stars. His new book Somebody Else Sold the World is forthcoming in 2021.

@ADRIAN.MATEJKA

ADRIANMATEJKA.COM

LAUREN OOSTERLINCK

MALINA SIMONE

...EVERYONE PRACTICED THE GOLDEN RULE.

...WE VALUED HUMANITY AS MUCH AS WE DO MONEY.

When Lauren isn’t writing, she loves painting, photography and trying new restaurants. She adores fashion and glamour, and has a vast lipstick collection. Lauren spent the past 11 years in New York City and recently moved back to her native-Indy with her British hubby and three cats for a quieter, quality lifestyle. An avid fan of karaoke, her song of choice is “All that She Wants,” by Ace of Base.

Malina uses her experience in arts, culture and inclusive programming to maintain corporate and neighborhood relationships with development projects such as Waterside. She sits on the Board of Directors for Governors for Indiana Humanities, Big Car, Newfields and the Indianapolis Cultural Trail. She also serves on The Exchange at the Indianapolis Urban League.

@HAUTCHILDINTHECITY

@MALINASIMONE

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FRANCIS NWOSU

LOREAL ELDER

...PEOPLE WERE MORE PATIENT AND UNDERSTANDING WITH EACH OTHER.

...WE ALL COULD FIND AND FOCUS ON TWO POSITIVES FOR EVERY ONE NEGATIVE WE DISCOVER IN THE WORLD.

Francis Nwosu is a Nigerian born Indianapolis based photographer. He specializes in conceptual portraiture, fashion/ editorial, and visual storytelling. His work conveys a strong use of color, light and emotion that captivates the viewer and highlights his subjects.

Loreal Elder is an Indianapolis-based photographer serving the midwest and beyond. A documenter of the real. Searcher of the truth. Reminder of the small meaningful moments.

@LOREALMADE

LOREALMADE.COM

@PRXPERSTANDARDS

DENISE HERD

JULIAN J. JONES

...PEOPLE COULD AGREE TO DISAGREE, WERE KINDER TO ONE ANOTHER AND REMEMBERED TO DO UNTO OTHERS AS THEY WOULD HAVE OTHERS DO UNTO THEM.

...HATE AND RACISM VANISHED.

Denise Herd is the founder and president of Herd Strategies, a full-service public relations firm, headquartered in downtown Indianapolis. Outside of the business, Denise is a highly sought-after public speaker, workshop facilitator and highly engaged in the local business and civic community.

Julian J. Jones is a fashion & fine arts photographer based in Noblesville, IN. He recently graduated with a Bachelors of Fine Arts in Photography at the Herron School of Art + Design in Indianapolis, IN. Julian began his MFA studies in Photography at Cranbrook Academy of Art in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan this fall.

@JULIANJONES.PHOTOS

JULIANJAMAALJONES.COM

@DJALWAYSHERD

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY

J U L I A N J . J O N ES T H E R O C K AG E N CY P H OTO G R A P H Y AS S I STA N TS C H R I S N E W E L L | A EST H E T I C A RT I ST AG E N CY D I EG O G U E R R A ST Y L E BY TAY L O R Z I E L I N S K I ST Y L E AS S I STA N T JA M A R M I T C H E L L M A K E U P BY N I K K I B R O W N | A EST H E T I C A RT I ST AG E N CY

MODEL CHRISTOPHER MARRS | 10 MGMT

B U C K E T H AT JA M ES L A N G FO R D

D ES I G N BY J O H N I L A N G - I L A N G

D O U B L E JAC K E TS PA N G E A . P N G

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JAC K E T JA M ES L A N G FO R D 11

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TO P G A R C I A B E L L O G L OV E B AG JA M ES L A N G FO R D

JAC K E T N . H O O LY W O O D

PA N TS JA M E S L A N G FO R D

PA N TS G A R C I A B E L L O

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TO P N . H O O LY W O O D

B E A D E D FAC E M AS K

S H O RTS N . H O O LY W O O D

TAY L O R Z I E L I N S K I V EST G A R C I A B E L L O PA N TS G A R C I A B E L L O

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H O O D E D M AS K JA M ES L A N G FO R D

TO P JA M ES L A N G FO R D

V EST PA N G E A . P N G

V EST H E L I O T E M I L

TA N K J E N E A N E X I A N G D ES I L E T S PA N TS C H I N AT O W N M A R K E T

PATTERN VOLUME NO. 18

WORDS BY DENISE HERD PHOTOGRAPHY BY POLINA OSHEROV ASSISTED BY JEANIE STEHR MAKEUP BY NIKKI BROWN

Reform. (verb) make changes in (something, typically a social, political, or economic institution or practice) in order to improve it. In 1776 , Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams, Roger Sherman, and Robert R. Livingston (also known as our nation's founding fathers) authored the Declaration of Independence. Its purpose — to serve as a guiding light of the principles on which our government and our identity as Americans are based. Unlike other founding documents, such as our Constitution and its preceding Bill of Rights, the Declaration of Independence is not legally binding, but it is powerful. We're all familiar with its Preamble which bears witness that all men are created equally, and we have the unalienable rights to life, liberty, and happiness. What a powerful and timeless message this sentence conveys. I don't think America's founding fathers knew how prophetic those words would be and how centuries later the quest for equal rights would be a major struggle for women – particularly Black women in America. Jefferson, Franklin, Adams, Sherman, and Livingston set out to build a frame of government for the new United States of America, but they failed to acknowledge the land in which they laid their foundation was so unstable that before the ink of their signatures had dried, the seeds of racial and gender disparity had been planted and would continue to grow for decades. I wish I could have just an hour with the authors of the Declaration of Independence, and the Constitution for that matter, so I could ask them if, as they were putting pen to paper, they fully realized that they, along with their colleagues, were in the midst of crafting a document that would hinder the progress of women for decades. When these two historical documents were so eloquently crafted, yet the rights of women had been blatantly omitted.

The right to vote. To have our voices heard. To bring to a legislative body ideas for reform that could positively impact the quality of life for women. In the late 1800s, women grew tired of this virulent attempt to be silenced, and it was game on. The push to reform voter law was first proposed in Congress in 1878 and was promptly voted down unanimously. Women in northern states had been voting for several years, and there was a growing call for federal legislative reform to ensure that equal access to the polls could be achieved. In 1919, the voices of women (and many men) could no longer be ignored and the 19th Amendment was passed. Still, it wasn’t until August 20, 1919, fifteen months later, when the act was ratified and became law. But for Black women, the right to vote wouldn’t come until 1965. The Voting Rights Act of 1965 stands on the shoulders of mothers, fathers, aunties, uncles, and cousins of Black women who have chosen the pathway of public service. These women were children and some not even born when the Voting Rights Act of 1965 passed. They are the daughters of women who stood silently on the sidelines as white suffragists marched, protested, and lobbied for the right to vote. As Black women, their desire to vote was marginalized and kept at bay. Yet they continued to fight, passing down from generation to generation an unyielding desire to stand shoulder-to -shoulder with their white counterparts serving as voices and political advocates for our Black community. As we celebrate 100 years since the passing of the 19th Amendment and the Women’s Voting Rights Act, we would be remiss if we didn’t also pay homage to the Voting Rights Act of 1965. It is these two bold acts of reform that have written new chapters in the history books of our city. We celebrate these women today and all the Black women who will fight for reform, guide our legislative agendas, and hold a seat at this most powerful table in our community.

! y a d r ou is This This is our day.

This is our day.

COUNCILLOR MAGGIE A. LEWIS BEST ADVICE YOU'VE EVER RECEIVED: FEEL THE FEAR/ PAIN AND DO IT ANYWAY. YOUR FIGHT SONG: I'M COMING OUT BY DIANA ROSS & IN THE NIGHT BY PHIL COLLINS COMPLETE THIS SENTENCE: RIGHT NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO STOP DREAMING AND START DOING! THIS IS OUR TIME!

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COUNCILLOR LA KEISHA JACKSON BEST ADVICE YOU'VE EVER RECEIVED: PICK YOUR BATTLES WISELY. DON’T LOSE THE WAR FOR ONE BATTLE. YOUR FIGHT SONG: THE BATTLE IS THE LORD’S BY YOLANDA ADAMS COMPLETE THIS SENTENCE: RIGHT NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO UNITE FOR CHANGE; IF THERE IS NO SEAT AT THE TABLE, CREATE ONE!

REPRESENTATIVE VANESSA SUMMERS BEST ADVICE: IT ISN’T ALWAYS ABOUT YOU. SONG: MY SOUL IS ANCHORED COMPLETE THIS SENTENCE: RIGHT NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO STAND IN YOUR TRUTH.

FORMER DEPUTY MAYOR ANGELA SMITH JONES BEST ADVICE YOU'VE EVER RECEIVED: MY MOM SAID, “YOU CAN DO ANYTHING YOU SET YOUR MIND TO ACHIEVE.” YOUR FIGHT SONG: I’M EVERY WOMAN BY CHAKA KHAN AND PERFORMED BY WHITNEY HOUSTON COMPLETE THIS SENTENCE: RIGHT NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO LEAN IN — LEADING WITH YOUR HEART AND MIND. WE MUST ALWAYS HAVE LOVE AND COMPASSION IN ADDRESSING THESE TOUGH ISSUES BUT USING THE POWER OF OUR BRAINS AND IDEAS TO DEVELOP SOLUTIONS THAT WILL HAVE A LASTING AND PERMANENT IMPACT.

MARION COUNTY CLERK MYLA ELDERIDGE

SENATOR JEAN BREAUX BEST ADVICE YOU'VE EVER RECEIVED: POLITICALLY: WHEN I JOINED THE LEGISLATURE, MY MOTHER TOLD ME TO REMEMBER THAT MY WORD IS MY BOND. PERSONALLY: MY GRANDMOTHER TOLD ME THAT EDUCATION IS THE GREAT EQUALIZER, AND TO BE AS EDUCATED AS POSSIBLE. YOUR FIGHT SONG: THE POWER OF LOVE BY STEPHANIE MILLS COMPLETE THIS SENTENCE: RIGHT NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO PLAN YOUR VOTE AND PLAN TO VOTE.

REPRESENTATIVE CHERISH PRYOR BEST ADVICE YOU'VE EVER RECEIVED: BE TRUE TO YOURSELF. YOUR FIGHT SONG: SOUNDS OF BLACKNESS BY OPTIMISTIC COMPLETE THIS SENTENCE: RIGHT NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO USE THE ENERGY IN THIS COUNTRY AND MAKE A POSITIVE CHANGE FOR OUR COMMUNITIES.

BEST ADVICE YOU'VE EVER RECEIVED: DON’T SETTLE FOR SECOND WHEN FIRST IS AVAILABLE. YOUR FIGHT SONG: GLORY BY JOHN LEGEND AND COMMON COMPLETE THIS SENTENCE: RIGHT NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO STAND UP FOR EQUALITY, JUSTICE, AND HUMAN RIGHTS!

REPRESENTATIVE ROBIN SHACKELFORD BEST ADVICE YOU'VE EVER RECEIVED: LISTEN TO LEARN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. YOUR FIGHT SONG: RUN THE WORLD (GIRLS) BY BEYONCÉ COMPLETE THIS SENTENCE: RIGHT NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO LIVE WITHIN GOD’S PURPOSE FOR YOUR LIFE.

PHOTOGRAPH BY REAGAN ALLEN 24

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LEVI ALEXANDER PORTILLO. ENIGMAS. DESIGNER. CREATOR. INNOVATOR. CHANGING THE GAME WITH UNAPOLOGETIC AND INCLUSIVE DESIGNS. WORDS BY MONICA SALLAY FASHION LABEL, ENIGMAS, HAS BEEN CREATING BUZZ in Indy with local creatives sporting its fresh styles around town. The brand’s entrancing prints on eyecatching materials has contributed to its growing traction on social media and at pop-up events where products sell out almost immediately. Enigmas designer and streetwear extraordinaire, Levi Alexander Portillo, survived difficult circumstances in his early life by grasping new opportunities to shape his future through fashion education. As an emerging presence on the Indy arts scene, Portillo’s brand delves into the realms of freedom and fluidity, producing quality pieces that serve all genders, shapes, and sizes through unconventional and unapologetic dress.

MONICA SALLAY: How did you first become interested in fashion? LEVI ALEXANDER PORTILLO: I was born in Los Altos, California, and moved to Indianapolis early in my childhood. I was in a part of town that faced a lot of economic difficulty. [For] a lot of men of color, there’s a whole thing about not making it to the age of 25, so that mindset is how I grew up. I never felt safe and was bullied a lot, so I knew I needed to find a way to get out. I really liked art, especially in entertainment, like anime. I realized that there were magnet programs through public school that would focus on what you wanted to study, so I auditioned for a program with my portfolio and was accepted to Broad Ripple [High School]. There, I learned that I really liked fashion. I didn’t really understand it very well, but there was just something about it that I enjoyed so much. Moving forward from that, I got a really shitty job, and it took me a year to realize that there was no way I would ever get anything done if I stayed there. I graduated with an associate degree in general studies from Ivy Tech, asked around [about fashion programs] and Ball State came onto the radar. I have two degrees: one in fashion merchandising and one in apparel design. My minor is in marketing. Most of the skills I developed, however, were during my time off and through my own research, rather than classes that were $700 or $800 a class. It was such a big learning experience for me, and I’m happy that I did it because I really developed as a professional and creator.

MS: What inspired you to create Enigmas? LAP: I got invited to a fringe show at New York Fashion Week last September, and that’s where I decided to join my business partner, Daria Johnson. I told her that this [brand] could be legitimate. People could associate it with a very specific culture, and therefore, build brand loyalty. It wasn’t out of the realm of possibility. When we got back from New York, I said, “Let’s do it.” That’s how Enigmas came to be. MS: How would you describe the overall aesthetic of Enigmas? LAP: It lives on a culture of mystery [and] magic. I’m keen on the way we change our perception of spirituality and religion. A lot of people are spiritual and have built their own way of living through selfidentification rather than a religious sect. I think that clothing and branding are very spiritual. I feel as though both celebrities and brands are sort of our gods now. What I want to do with Enigmas is give people the ability to empower themselves through dress. Freedom is a big factor in Enigmas. Garments that you would generally associate with being a woman [or man] look cool on everybody. It is very much about blurring beauty and coolness. This happened in my studio collection, Gender Formulae. I wanted to play with silhouettes and colors that we normally associate with different genders and then put them together.

“What I want to do with Enigmas is give people the ability to empower themselves through dress. Freedom is a big factor in Enigmas. Garments that you would generally associate with being a woman [or man] look cool on everybody.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY QA’DERIOUS “Q” JENKIN

PATTERN VOLUME NO. 18

MS: The theme of this issue is reform, meaning to make changes in something in order to improve it. How do you think Enigmas embodies reform? LAP: Enigmas is really big on quality. What I appreciate about the reselling culture that is developing in streetwear and online is that they care about the product and, don’t get me wrong, it’s expensive. But because it is valued so high, its value is maintained despite moving onto different consumers. That lifecycle is super important. I really want Enigmas to focus on creating value for people. Because [in America] all of our cut and sew is done elsewhere, our clothing is so cheap. People don’t realize how low quality their clothes can be. [For my pieces] it’s not just that they’re beautiful, but they are made that way. Quality should just be the standard. MS: What do you see in the future for Enigmas? LAP: I want to have a cut-to-order system. I am working on that right now. I want to present a general collection, and maybe mass produce a few pieces, but have the option for people to say, “I want that gown. I want that skirt.” and I can say, “OK, you happen to be that size so I can cut-to-order your piece, and at a discount, [sell] the floor model.” We’re wasting as little material as possible and you know that out of 300 pieces in the world, you can say, “Wow, this is mine. This is made for me.” ✂

PHOTOGRAPH BY REAGAN ALLEN 27

PHOTO BY FRANCIS NWOSU

WORDS BY MALINA SIMONE PHOTO BY ESTHER BOSTON

PATTERN VOLUME NO. 18

Including the hashtag symbol at the front and the black empowerment fist at the tail, the mural is 18 characters or symbols long, stretching 250 feet on one of Indy’s most culturally significant corridors. It was an honor to recognize the movement and the place in this way—in an artistic way. Just as exciting was the opportunity to work with 18 Indy-based artists. This crew, now calling themselves, “the EIGHTEEN,” has taken our city by storm with individual 30-foot artworks that make a collective masterpiece.

SUNNY SIDE UP WARD ONE CAN’T MAKE GOOD TROUBLE ON AN EMPTY STOMACH.

WORDS BY MALINA SIMONE

PHOTO BY SCOTT CORNE

There was a lot of media coverage and social media conversation about the mural. The movement and its process has been talked about a lot. Black people—Black men specifically—have been the topic of the hour. I’m glad that the racism that has ravaged our society is finally being talked about candidly and openly. I want to bring light to another aspect of the movement that we don’t hear about as much—the artists. And specifically, the men. So much of the recent narrative of

Black men has been offered within the context of death. Literally, that’s how we’ve referenced Black men lately—by discussing how they’re an endangered species. Again, I’m glad that we’re finally having this conversation on this scale. And I also want to talk about the individuals as the people they are. People who have children. People who enjoy art. People who enjoy eggs. You know, the simple things that make up who we are.

I’m especially interested in this part of the story because I’m nervous about the masses only discussing this group in one way. I’m nervous because that is how we’ll get used to hearing about them. That’s how we’ll begin to further classify them—as a group in danger (which they are) and leaving out the remaining and beautiful parts of their being. So, let’s get a glimpse into the personal lives of eight of the visual artists via quick, rapid fire questions. Let’s talk about life this time. 29

ISRAEL SOLOMON DESIGNED THE FONT FOR THE MURAL AND PAINTED THE SECOND “T.”

This summer, I had the distinct pleasure of coordinating Indianapolis’ Black Lives Matter street mural alongside three other Black women—Stacia Murphy, Leah Derray and Kyra Jay. Starting in Washington D.C. and then quickly beautifying cities across the country, residents alongside artists have taken to the streets to proclaim that Black Lives Matter in big, bold, colorful ways. And for many people, Indy’s mural is their favorite! Including the hashtag symbol at the front and the black empowerment fist at the tail, the mural is 18 characters or symbols long, stretching 250 feet on one of Indy’s most culturally significant corridors. It was an honor to recognize the movement and the place in this way—in an artistic way. Just as exciting was the opportunity to work with 18 Indy-based artists. This crew, now calling themselves, “the EIGHTEEN,” has taken our city by storm with individual 30-foot artworks that make a collective masterpiece. There was a lot of media coverage and social media conversation about the mural. The movement and its process has been talked about a lot. Black people—Black men specifically—have been the topic of the hour. I’m glad that the racism that has ravaged our society is finally being talked about candidly and openly. I want to bring light to another aspect of the movement that we don’t hear about as much—the artists. And specifically, the men. So much of the recent narrative of Black men has been offered within the context of death. Literally, that’s how we’ve referenced Black men lately—by discussing how they’re an endangered species. Again, I’m glad that we’re finally having this conversation on this scale. And I also want to talk about the individuals as the people they are. People who have children. People who enjoy art. People who enjoy eggs. You know, the simple things that make up who we are.

Israel Solomon How do you like your eggs, Israel? In my stomach. Why did you participate in the Black Lives Matter mural? I participated in the mural because I felt like it was a way to use my voice to express myself in the language that I am most comfortable speaking—visual art. As a Black man in America, I believe that we do matter. My people should be able to walk, enter a business or school, or drive down the street without feeling like at any moment our lives and freedom can be taken from us for no reason at all other than hatred, jealousy and/ or fear. I was taught that we should love one another, and unfortunately, the society that I live in does not reciprocate that love. It is my goal with this work to contribute to our creative brilliance and beauty. I hope that our mural creates unity and sheds light to those in darkness. I was blessed to be amongst a group of 18 amazing artists to create a collective voice of positivity and unity within the city of Indianapolis. We came together and made a strong statement that our lives absolutely matter, and that we will continue to move forward with our heads up, spreading that message. Who are you? And what do you do for fun? I am a hard worker who cares deeply about my family. I spend the majority of my day working; but for fun, I like to listen to music, make hip-hop beats and go hunting for records and old video games to add to my collection.

I’m especially interested in this part of the story, because I’m nervous about the masses only discussing this group in one way. I’m nervous because that is how we’ll get used to hearing about them. That’s how we’ll begin to further classify them—as a group in danger (which they are) and leaving out the remaining and beautiful parts of their being. So, let’s get a glimpse into the personal lives of eight of the visual artists via quick, rapid fire questions. Let’s talk about life this time. PHOTO BY ESTHER BOSTON 30

PATTERN VOLUME NO. 18

Israel Solomon

PHOTO BY ESTHER BOSTON

Rae Parker

JARROD DORTCH LEADS THE MURAL WITH HIS HASHTAG SYMBOL.

Jarrod Dortch How do you like your eggs, Jarrod? I like my eggs farm fresh from Lawrence Community Gardens with Solful Gardens vegetables scrambled, or in an omelet or frittata with a sprinkle of "Garlic Goodness Seasoning" from Food.Love.Tog. Shout out to Indy-based businesses. Tell us why you participated in the Black Lives Matter street mural. Participating in the mural was a learning experience for me and an opportunity to reintroduce myself to the community through art. It was an opportunity to engage with Black creatives in our city and to help make a statement about the struggles of our current time. It was a transformative experience that allowed me to grow as a community leader and as an artist. Who are you and what do you do for fun? I am Dr. Jarrod Nicholas Dortch and I love to spend time with people that can engage in conversation and debate and leave with a stronger understanding and appreciation of one another.

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PHOTO BY ESTHER BOSTON

PHOTO BY JAKE MORAN

Kevin West

Kevin, how do you like your eggs? Scrambled with cheese. Why did you participate in the mural? To bring awareness to the fact that this has been going on for decades. And because I was personally affected by police brutality as a kid with the killing of my neighbor and family member, Michael Taylor. Who are you and what do you for fun? I’m a faith-driven artist, innovator and entrepreneur. Fun for me is traveling and spending time with my family.

KEVIN CHOSE THE “K”, WHICH FEATURED MICHAEL TAYLOR’S NAME, A VICTIM OF POLICE VIOLENCE IN INDY.

PHOTO BY FRANCIS NWOSU

Rae Parker

GARY GEE CREATED THE “I.”

Gary Gee How do you like your eggs, Gary? I generally like my eggs scrambled with cheese. Today, I had a spinach wrap with sausage, egg and Gouda cheese. Why did you participate in the Black Lives Matter street mural? I believe that it was historically significant, and highly relevant in the day and time. Who are you and what do you do for fun? I’m Gary Gee. I’m a visual artist and storyteller. For fun, I enjoy traveling, going to art museums and eating at local restaurants.

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PHOTO BY JAKE MORAN

Wavy Blayne

Wavy, how do you take your eggs? My favorite egg dish is “egg in a hole.” It’s a nice over-easy egg cooked in the center of your favorite slice of bread. It’s literally the best! Why did you participate in the Black Lives Matter street mural? When I first saw the post about the mural, I knew I wanted to participate but was instantly filled with doubt. After going back and forth, I finally came to the conclusion to do it. I felt like it was a way to test my talent, while also bringing attention to the issues that I was personally impacted by.

WAVY BLAYNE’S “M” WAS A CROWD PLEASER.

I’m glad you found the courage. Who are you? And what do you do for fun? The name is Wavy Blayne. My life is filled with the arts. The main thing I love is music. That takes up most of my time. You can usually catch me in my studio with my instruments—making magic.

Rae Parker

PHOTO BY FRANCIS NWOSU

RAE PARKER CREATED THE FIRST “E” OF THE MURAL.

Rae Parker

Rae, how do you like your eggs? I like my eggs “flexed” meaning scrambled with fresh herbs and veggies from my garden with chopped turkey bacon. “Flexed eggs” is hilarious. Tell us why you participated in the Black Lives Matter mural? Because it was being done by us and not an outside organization. This was for the people, the families and the history of victims. This was for the history of Indiana Avenue. It’s a reminder of a time when a Black community flourished with love, unity and the arts in that very same location. There were safe spaces for people of color to be themselves and enjoy fashion, food, you name it. Did you know Jimi Hendrix even played on Indiana Avenue? The Indiana Avenue cultural district is my favorite place in Indy because of all you’ve just mentioned. Tell us who you are. And what you do for fun. I’m just me. A Black, queer, human. An artivist, an entrepreneur with a full-time job and a samurai. For fun, I spend time with my three fur kids, my garden and my beautiful partner.

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PHOTO BY ESTHER BOSTON

Nate Rhodes

Nate, how do you like your eggs? There isn’t one particular way I like my eggs. They’re good scrambled with cheese, and occasionally with vegetables and herbs. I also like eggs prepared as an omelet, with cheese of course. Eggs and cheese are a match made in heaven. Tell us why you participated in Indy’s Black Lives Matter street mural. I participated in the Black Lives Matter mural because it was a chance to convey my feelings about my experience as a Black man in America to the public. It was a chance to amplify the movement, to hopefully encourage people who are like me or people with the same goal as me to succeed in an abolishment of a corrupt system and encourage more acts of love, unity and serenity.

NATE RHODES DESIGNED AND PAINTED THE “B” IN THE MURAL FEATURING A COOL HAIR PICK.

That’s beautiful. Who are you? And what do you do for fun? I’m an eccentric soul born to create. I also consider myself an “Artivist.” I enjoy the activist nature of painting or illustrating my message to the public. Recently, all I do is create. That’s what I like to do. That is how I heal or express. It’s a rare occasion, but when I encounter like-minded individuals it’s nice to socialize and converse through ideas. I really cherish time with those that I love, and I always find time to laugh. 37

PHOTO BY POLINA OSHEROV

FITZ CREATED THE FIRST “T” IN THE MURAL.

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Shane “FITZ” Young

How do you like your eggs, Fitz? Scrambled with cheese! Why did you participate in the Black Lives Matter mural? I wanted to participate because Black Lives Matter is more than a movement—it is who I am. I’ve been Black all my life, way before it was popular. This is a shift in today’s world where people’s eyes are opening to see the wrong in the world. I want to do anything and everything to keep the eyes open. Who are you and what do you do for fun? Outside of drawing and painting basically 24/7, I chill, watch anime and cartoons, and spend time with family. Oh, and I watch TV sitcoms all the time!

PHOTO BY FRANCIS NWOSU

Billy Hoodoo Billy, how do you like your eggs? Scrambled, unless I’ve got some time on my hands and then I get extra fancy. Pimento cheese, please. Interesting! So, why did you participate in the mural? I participated in the mural because I’m a Black man in this world first and foremost. I am the struggle. Coming from poverty, I know the effects of systematic oppression whether real or perceived, so I know the influence that positive vibrations and energy carry— especially with concrete foundation, no pun intended. The mural was a great opportunity to transmute my hurt into healing and do the same for others.

BILLY HOODOO DESIGNED THE “C” IN THE BLACK LIVES MATTER MURAL.

Who are you? And what do you do for fun? I’m Billy Hoodoo. I’m a human being. I go out in the sun for fun.

5Artist Shane “Fitz” Young paints his mural originally located at 433 Mass Ave.

MURALS FOR RACIAL JUSTICE In the summer of 2020, artists of color created murals on Downtown Indy’s boarded-up windows as an immediate response to the worldwide protests calling for racial justice and an end to police brutality. Images of the murals, captured by PATTERN, have been turned into large vinyl banners. Now, there are two ways you can check them out at Central Library (40 E. St. Clair St.) See an exhibition of the mural-banners from November through mid-December. Reserve the banners for free to display at your own public and private events. The community-engagement initiative, funded by Glick Philanthropies, is a partnership among the Arts Council of Indianapolis, The Center for Black Literature & Culture based at Indianapolis Public Library, and

40 PATTERN VOLUME NO.Artists 18 and the public learn about how to become involved at indyarts.org. project manager Danicia Monét.

HARRISONCENTER.ORG CULTIVATES EMERGING ART PATRONS BY REDEFINING THE BOUNDARIES OF ARTIST AND AUDIENCE: EVERYONE IS PART OF THE ART. EVERYONE IS PART OF TAKING ON COVID AND RACIAL INJUSTICE.

CONVERSATION PIECES IN AUGUST, A GROUP OF ARTISTS CREATED A BODY OF WORK REPRESENTING WHAT PROTESTING RACIAL INJUSTICE MEANS TO THEM. THIS ART ENCOURAGES US TO THINK MORE DEEPLY ABOUT THE PURPOSE OF PROTEST AND HOW IT EVOKES CHANGE. CREATING GOES BEYOND PROCESSING FEELINGS AND BECOMES AN ACT OF PROTEST ITSELF.

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GIGI SALIJ

MICHAEL RIPPEY

WENYAN XU

Gigi Salij is a screenprinter and collage artist whose work focuses on themes of politics and pop culture. “I’m the daughter of immigrants,” she says, “and because of that I look at everything as an outsider.” Raised in Fort Wayne, she studied architecture at Harvard University; she now splits her time between New York, Los Angeles, and Indianapolis.

Illinois native Michael Rippey has been an oil painter since his retirement from the golf industry in 2013. For 35 years his company developed, operated and consulted to golf courses and country clubs nationally and internationally. He has no formal artistic training, but has developed his techniques through selfstudy and occasional workshops with other professional artists. He describes his painting of an old rusty shackle as “symbolizing what was, in effect, the ‘starting line’ for most American black families trying to achieve some measure of success in our country.” Michael was born in Galesburg in 1947, and grew up in various parts of the Midwest. Today he and his wife, Durenda, divide their time between homes in Michigan and Florida.

My recent work is entitled Between World. The word World is in close relation with the earth or its inhabitants, human affairs and their corresponding era of time. In this sense, we belong to different material and spiritual worlds at once. For instance, you stand on the land of one nation, but your identity belongs to another. At the same time, you may be living in a Christian family, but yourself being an agnostic. Everyone’s worlds compose this complex world and forms reality. What mechanism between these worlds shape the trajectory of our lives? What determines the direction of reality?

gigisalij.com @gigi_salij

ANNE CLEARY Anne Cleary is an abstract painter and textile artist living in the Indianapolis area. Curiosity of and reflection upon the natural world is the starting point for most of her work, however, in her recent textile collages, she uses antique table cloths, linens, and family heirlooms as the foundation for the pieces. By machine stitching, appliqueing, and embroidering dyed and painted silk, cotton, muslin, and scraps from old clothes, and applying acrylic paint and marker, she builds layers of texture, color, to make a new visual language. These pieces are about the re-invention of precious materials that were once used to cover and adorn kitchen and dining room tables, and the imagined conversations that took place around them- they comment upon the danger of gathering and being together due to a virus, in current times where sadly conversation around the table and otherwise, has become dangerous and perhaps lethal. This piece is from a series called “Stars and Stripes” and is about of the fabric of our democracy. anneclearydesigns.com @anneclearyart

rippeyart.com

CARILLON PRESS When a painter/printmaker (Anders Sandstrom) and a graphic design/ typography enthusiast (Nina Ardery) got married, the collaboration that resulted was Carillon Press. The letterpress studio uses wood and metal type, woodcuts and wood engravings, and big, heavy, old machines to produce posters and prints tending toward the opinionated and political. Although the Press was founded in Silver Spring, Maryland, it came home to its Hoosier roots and has been based in Indianapolis since 2007. It takes its name from the place that the collaborators found themselves at the end of their first date: at the (recently-demolished) Metz Carillon on the campus of Indiana University in Bloomington. @carillonpress

My work attempts to explore these issues from a perspective of dimensions, which is inspired by some theories from science, Taoism and parapsychology. The visible material world is shaped and limited by the speed of light, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t any worlds that we can’t see, such as our psyche, emotions and feelings. As the innermost power of humans, these invisible worlds create the most active energy, determining the destiny of the individual. The collective energy of individuals then composes a collective consciousness of the society, which influences and changes its history and development. In short, I want the viewers to realize that their individual spirits and emotions are what truly shape their reality. To that end, I make figure-based works not using the traditional approach, but in a way that emphasizes viewers’ perceptual experiences. Figures with ambiguous characteristics are illustrated full of emotions. Along with figurative demonstrations, the anomalous materials embody a different sensation, representing the material world. The painting as a whole ultimately makes viewers switch between the worlds of inner psyche and material reality as they’re observing. wenyanxu.org

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MICHAEL RIPPEY

GIGI SALIJ

LEVI ALEXANDER PORTILLO, ENIGMAS

DESIGNER GIVES POWER TO THE PEOPLE—THROUGH CLOTHING

WORDS BY MONICA SALLAY PHOTOGRAPHY BY QA’DERIOUS “Q” JENKINS MODELLED BY DEVRIN STONE, KRISTIN HYLTON, DYLAN JOHNSON, ELIZABETH KERNS STYLED BY DARIA JOHNSON DESIGNED BY LEVI PORTILLO Fashion label, Enigmas, has been creating buzz in Indy with local creatives sporting its fresh styles around town. The brand’s entrancing prints on eyecatching materials has contributed to its growing traction on social media and at pop-up events where products sell out almost immediately. Enigmas designer and streetwear extraordinaire, Levi Alexander Portillo, survived difficult circumstances in his early life by grasping new opportunities to shape his future through fashion education. As an emerging presence on the Indy arts scene, Portillo’s brand delves into the realms of freedom and fluidity, producing quality pieces that serve all genders, shapes, and sizes.

CARILLON PRESS

ANNE CLEARY

S H T H P S 6 FT

6 FT

WORDS BY MORIAH MILLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMANDA REYNOLDS DESIGNED BY LINDSAY HADLEY MODELED BY MORIAH MILLER, ABI OGLE, MICHELLE BOVA, YEABSERA TABB, SONTYONA DAVIS

y et af s g n ti r i Sk

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c i ch y it C e cl r i C

Besides caring about art, the Harrison Center cares a lot about surprises, making people laugh, and crazy ideas. COVID-19 has made this difficult for us. No virtual platform is as conducive to human connection as being in the same room with each other. Social distancing, which in many cases has led to social isolation, along with the deep heaviness of this season, has given us little space for anything lighthearted. You know that day in mid-March when we all realized life as we knew it was ending for a while? Some people went to work just to somberly watch the news, others went out for drinks with coworkers, and others just went home. Well, at the Harrison Center, we played with hula hoops. Our executive director, Joanna Taft, attached ropes to hula hoops and had staff and interns wear them as a funny way to remind us to stay six feet apart. Even though we started working from home the next day, we already had the idea to create social-distance hoop skirts. Through lots of conversations, we figured out a prototype for hoop skirts with a six-foot diameter and commissioned Lori Toombs to fabricate 10 skirts for us. We left them pretty simple at first, opting for a simple black cage design so that we could use them in several ways. For the debut, we spread them out in our courtyard and invited neighbors in masks walking by to try them on and go for a walk with us! The first hoop skirt performance felt like we’d been given a gift, even though we were trying to give a gift to the neighborhood. It had been a while since we had interacted that much with anyone outside of our homes. The hoop skirts are not only visual safety reminders; they are also just a little weird. Walking around with a giant stack of hula hoops hanging from your waist? Ridiculous. And so much fun! Neighbors on their porches laughed and waved, and after we got over our initial embarrassment and remembered how to socialize, we started playing it up and performing a little. Photographer Amanda Reynolds helped direct us and captured the performance from a distance. “I’ve never photographed something quite like this before,” she said. “And after being inside for so long, it just feels so good to create again.” Of course, we couldn’t wait to wear them again, so we took the skirts to the historic Polk Stables along the Monon, which certainly helped pedestrians and bikers get an idea of how far six feet really is. Because opportunities for elegance have been scarce lately, we added fairy lights for a little sparkle. We also performed and filmed a video at Monument Circle, covered the skirts in flowers to deliver bouquets to isolated neighbors, and invited community members to try them on at our Social Distance First Fridays. Everywhere the hoops made an appearance, we were met with questions, laughter, and gratitude. There is a time to mourn for all we’ve lost to COVID, but even in heavy situations, a little creativity can bring us together (while keeping us six feet apart!) and bring us unexpected delight.

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PATTERN VOLUME NO. 18 TURTLENECK GAP SKIRT PETTICOAT PLACE BELT VINTAGE

g in n r a e l e c n ta Dis

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e c n ta is d r you p ee

The Greatriarchs are long-term residents who helped write the stories of their neighborhood. More than that, these leaders have invited new neighbors and leaders into their stories, leaving a lasting legacy. Harrison Center artist Abi Ogle spent time with each Greatriarch on their porches, listening and sketching their portraits while they talked. Over the period of three years, Abi painted 18 6x4 foot paintings which hang annually along the 16th Street corridor in the Hillside area of Martindale-Brightwood. The paintings have also been exhibited at the Mayor’s Office, Edna Martin Christian Center, Indiana Black Expo and the Harrison Center. The Greatriarch project reminds us that neighborhoods are not blank slates, and that every neighbor has a story that deserves to be heard. These community members have invited us all to bear witness to their stories.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEANIE STEHR AND JAKE MORAN STYLE BY SARIAH BOROM SET DESIGN BY KIPP NORMAND MAKEUP BY NIKKI BROWN AND JA’TWON HENDERSON WORDS BY EVELYN AUER

Miss Joanna JOANNA LENOIR has lived in the same home in Martindale-Brightwood since she moved here from St. Louis with her mother Rasheeda and three siblings on July 14, 1963. The conditions under which they moved were difficult, escaping an abusive family life. But with the help of extended family, they made a clean break and put down roots in Indianapolis. Joanna’s mother’s bravery in starting over with her young family definitely paid off. Her descendants total 66 children, grandchildren and great grandchildren, including Miss Joanna and her children. Things really did get better in Indianapolis. As an adult, Miss Joanna became a nurse and worked for many years at hospitals and clinics, known for her nurturing disposition. She raised four children in the neighborhood and she was also involved in her community through volunteering at JTV Hill Community Center, Hillside Neighborhood Association, One Voice Martindale Brightwood, community dances at St. Rita’s Catholic Church and at St. John Missionary Baptist Church where she is a member. Since 1963, the whole family has commemorated their move to Indianapolis as a family holiday which they call “Rasheeda’s Freedom Day.” “We have always celebrated the third weekend in July. We barbecue and party for the whole weekend—Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. The neighbors would come, and people that we met grew to be like family,” Miss Joanna says. This year, after hearing the story, Mayor Joe Hogsett declared July 14 “Rasheeda’s Freedom Day” in Indianapolis to recognize the family’s legacy. Several years ago, Miss Joanna lost a daughter to cancer. Miss Joanna’s life has had many moments of grief, but she has transformed that grief into an incredible ability to care for others. She is a wonderful mother, neighbor and friend.

Miss Pearl PEARL J. CARTER was raised in Martindale-Brightwood and attended what was then John Hope School 26. Pearl and her classmates received a strict but thorough education there. “It was the only [elementary] school at that time for black folks. And they were determined that their students were going to have a correct education.” She remembers being raised by her mother as well as her grandmother, who always lived close by. Miss Pearl still lives on Yandes Street, just as she did as a child. The slow creep of gentrification in her neighborhood has not escaped Miss Pearl’s notice. On her street, older homes are intermingled with a collection of new builds and apartment complexes are continuing to pop up. The John Hope School is still standing but now houses The Oaks Academy. New restaurants and coffee shops appealing to white, middle-class families are also appearing. Miss Pearl has received letters for years now from developers trying to buy her out of her property, but she insists, “this is my block.” Miss Pearl has served in a variety of volunteer roles. As a mom, she stepped up to be a Cub Scout leader when their troop couldn’t find enough male leaders. She continued to step up with involvement at MartindaleBrightwood Community Development Corporation, One Voice Martindale-Brightwood and Hillside Neighborhood Association. Miss Pearl also helped CICOA identify seniors who needed a helping hand through the Safe at Home initiative. In addition to spending time with her grandchildren, she cares for her 103 year-old mother. 56

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Miss Jimmie JIMMIE LUTON has spent much of her life—103 years and counting—building community in her neighborhood. Just about everyone in MartindaleBrightwood knows the name “Miss Jimmie,” or “Memaw,” speaking to how much she is loved. Since moving into the neighborhood in 1930, Miss Jimmie has seen many different iterations of MartindaleBrightwood. As residents moved in and out, demographics changed before just like they are changing now. Miss Jimmie also remembers a different Indianapolis that is painful to imagine today - one rife with segregation. She recalls, “We could cook their food, but we couldn’t sit at their counter.” However, that also means she got to witness the Indiana Avenue Cultural District in its heyday. She graduated from Crispus Attucks High School in 1937. Later, Miss Jimmie graduated from the Madame Walker Advanced Beauty Culture Course, where she says they learned everything from doing nails to giving perms. At that time, the Walker Theatre was home to a whole host of blackowned businesses, including the Coffee Pot restaurant that she especially liked. Miss Jimmie was inspired by Madame Walker and her ability to succeed in spite of adversity and prejudices. In fact, she operated her own salon called Jimmie’s for many years. It was the go to place for looking your best! Miss Jimmie still lives in the Hillside neighborhood of Martindale-Brightwood, across the street from her daughter Pearl. She continues to be involved with her church, Oasis of Hope, and with her neighbors. She plays bingo as many days a week as possible to see friends and have fun. She is always ready with a smile, reminding her friends that “every day is a gift,” and continues to be an inspiration to many.

Miss Tee TERRI TAYLOR is a fun-loving woman with an infectious laugh and an enthusiasm for the color purple. “Miss Tee” has lived in the Hillside section of the MartindaleBrightwood community since birth except for a few years after she was married. Miss Tee and her sister attended John Hope School 26 on 16th Street. Her recollection of the neighborhood sounds idyllic. Martindale-Brightwood mostly consisted of families with children at that time, and they all went to school together. “Everybody knew everybody,” she says. “I didn’t know what prejudice was.” Miss Tee moved back to her childhood home to raise her two sons with her mother. The boys attended School 26 just like she and her sister had. But at that time, the neighborhood was changing. “It got kind of rough when the kids were coming up in the 70s and 80s,” she says. “There were gangs—it was tough raising two boys there. here were no men in our family.” But rather than being discouraged, she got involved. She became an active community organizer, working on the volunteer committee for JTV Hill Community Center. The committee mentored children and teenagers, organized fundraisers and worked to take care of the elderly and disabled. The events of today—illness, racial injustice, political turmoil—are reminding her that history repeats itself. She compares the protests today to the ones going on when she was in high school in the 60s. “They’ve solved a lot of problems [since then],” she says. “But things don’t always get better, they just get different.” Miss Tee has a granddaughter now who has been attending protests and she is proud, but worries for her safety. “All I can do is pray that everything will be ok,” she says. Today, Miss Tee loves spending time with her two children, four grandchildren and two greatgrandchildren. One of her sons renovated and still lives in her childhood home with his family, just around the corner from his mother.

Miss Shirley At 82 years old, SHIRLEY WEBSTER is not slowing down. Even after retiring from her career as a nurse, she has been busy serving on neighborhood committees and participating in social groups. Miss Shirley’s family moved to MartindaleBrightwood from the west side of Indianapolis when she was a teenager. At the time, she attended Crispus Attucks High School, where she remembers being instructed by “some of the best teachers in the country.” She recalls Martindale-Brightwood as a great community that felt safe and family-friendly. However, things started to change after I-70 was built, cutting into a huge portion of the southern part of the neighborhood. At that point, both white and black families in the neighborhood started to move to the suburbs, and those who couldn’t leave watched it decline. Miss Shirley’s parents didn’t have the means to leave the neighborhood, so they stayed and fought to revitalize it alongside their remaining neighbors. Miss Shirley moved out of the neighborhood briefly when she got married. But when her father passed away, she moved back to take over the home where she had grown up. She has lived there for the 42 years since then and has served in a number of community-centric roles, including president of the Hillside Neighborhood Association, founder and president of the Greater Citizens Coalition of MartindaleBrightwood (now called One Voice), president of the Martindale-Brightwood Community Development Corporation and coordinator of the Golden Agers club. She is also a member of 25th Street Baptist Church. About her involvement both personally and professionally, Miss Shirley humbly says, “I hope at the end of the day it has made a difference.” During the pandemic, Miss Shirley is keeping up with her friends through her senior group to fight off the isolation many people are dealing with. She says it's been a blessing in disguise. “We wouldn’t have known that we needed to slow down until something like this happened.” In a way, she says, families are getting more time together than they would usually, and everyone “has time to breathe.” She and her husband Paul continue to be involved with their church, their neighbors and their seven children, 14 grandchildren, 44 great-grandchildren and one great-great-grandchild.

Miss Eleyes You can’t miss ELEYES Y. REEVES riding through the neighborhood on her pink bicycle! No matter the weather, she whizzes around waving to friends and neighbors, always with a huge smile. Miss Eleyes has lived in Indianapolis her whole life and has been very involved in the creative community. A kind and thoughtful woman, she is best known for her artistic talents. After attending St. Bridget for elementary school and St. Mary Academy for high school, Miss Eleyes graduated from the John Herron Art Institute (now Herron School of Art and Design). Currently, she uses the Central Library as her office and studio. She describes herself as an artist, author, playwright and director. She’s also quite the dancer. This past January, her play “Tobin, the Love Story” was performed at Scott United Methodist Church. Miss Eleyes says that the events of this year have made her take a hard look at America and how people treat each other. She worries about how the homeless and underprivileged are being cared for in the current health crisis, and about racial inequity. But she’s definitely not sitting idle. Most recently, Miss Eleyes spent time creating documentation to honor the Black Lives Matter murals in Indianapolis and around the world. Each time she heard of a new one, she raced over on her bike to take photos and talk to the artist. She says most of the murals she has documented were later defaced, taken down or painted over, so she had to be diligent about getting the pictures quickly. Most well-known is the street mural on Indiana Avenue painted by a collection of local artists. Someone defaced the mural only a week after it was completed. By documenting this work, Miss Eleyes helps preserve the stories from this unique time in the city’s history. When she’s not working on her own creative projects, Miss Eleyes is always encouraging and promoting the work of other local artists, attending gallery openings, poetry readings and art fairs. She’s active with her church, St. Rita’s Catholic Church, and participates in activities at Scott United Methodist Church, Central Library and with the other Greatriarchs. 60

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Fo r m o r e i n f o v i s i t h a r r i s o n c e n t e r. o rg.

KENG XIONG. HOUSE OF XIONG. DESIGNER. ARTIST. STORY TELLER. SHARING CULTURAL NARRATIVES WITH A CONTEMPORARY TWIST.

WORDS BY MONICA SALLAY PHOTOGRAPHY BY LINDA VANG STRUCTURAL BRILLIANCE AND TEXTURAL DECADENCE are ever-present throughout the work of Keng Xiong. In her fashion label, House of Xiong, she channels her Hmong roots through reference to its traditional garb. A minority group from China and Southeast Asia, the Hmong people are known for their iconic Paj Ntaub, or flower cloth embroidery, which exhibits intricatelystitched patterns and vibrant color choices. Growing up practicing this artform, Xiong weaves elements of old world Hmong fashion and contemporary American styling together to tell stories of breaking the norm and expressing oneself through unconventional and unapologetic dress.

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MONICA SALLAY: How did you first become interested in fashion?

MS: The textiles you use for your garments are breathtaking. How do you choose those?

KENG XIONG: I started sewing traditional Paj Ntaub pieces from the Hmong culture at a young age watching my mom and grandma do it. We had eight girls in our family, so my mom sewed clothes for all of the girls to prepare for the new year and stuff like that. It wasn’t until six or seven years ago that I started doing serious fashion designing and creating art with it. It’s been a huge part of growing up.

KX: When I see a fabric, I usually think about the structure of how I can use it. I love using unconventional fabric. I love using upholstery fabric. I think the texture and the weight of the fabric is very versatile. I like to make jackets and bodysuits, and I think it works really well for those.

MS: How did you begin building your brand and creating House of Xiong pieces?

KX: It’s different styling—what people don’t usually see when they think of traditional Hmong clothes. I just choose elements from the traditional clothes to incorporate into my designs - like the [Hmong Odyssey: The Girl In Red] shoot. I styled it with a contemporary Hmong hat to allude to the cultural part of it. Even though here in Indiana there are no Hmong people around, I still like designing contemporary Hmong looks to showcase that it’s important to me. I grew up like this and I’m still Hmong, but very Americanized in my own way.

KX: To be honest, I don’t think of it as a brand! I’m just a full-time hobbyist. It’s a creative outlet. I love doing fashion for photography. Right now, with social media, I think that’s the best way to showcase work easily and build an audience. Oftentimes when I create a piece, it’s for a photoshoot with storytelling behind it. I actually went to school for film because I wanted to be a film director. So having that interest in film, photography and storytelling, I use fashion in that sense - I create the set and fashion is just part it.

MS: How do you merge the crossroads between old and new Hmong style?

MS: What do you see in the future for House of Xiong? MS: What are your clothes saying through these stories and the wearer? KX: “I am a strong individual,” and that, “I’m not afraid to be different and express myself through my fashion and my clothes, the way I do my hair, or the way I do my makeup.” My culture is very conservative. Most Asian cultures are very conservative. You can’t dye your hair, you can’t cut your hair, you can’t put on flashy clothes, you can’t put on flashy makeup. And a lot of my clothes do reveal skin, which shows that rebellious side of me.

KX: I would like to eventually branch out and do more with my designs. I have people ask all the time to make custom pieces. That’s what I’d like to do—make more unique fashion for individuals. ✂

“To be honest, I don’t think of it as a brand! I’m just a full-time hobbyist. It’s a creative outlet. I love doing fashion for photography.”

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“When I see a fabric, I usually think about the structure of how I can use it. I love using unconventional fabric.”

RETAIL INSIDER

INDY THROUGH THREADS MAKING THE SWITCH TO VINTAGE

WORDS BY CORY CATHCART + PHOTOGRAPHY BY CALLIE ZIMMERMAN

THIS YEAR HAS BEEN FILLED WITH PEOPLE TRYING TO HELP MAKE THE WORLD A BETTER place through their choices. One area where many are trying to do their part as consumers is in fashion. With the horrors of fast fashion coming to light, vintage clothing is gaining popularity. Keeping clothing out of landfills, supporting local thrifters and simply wanting to have unique style has many people shopping vintage. From established, to up-and-coming, Indy has no shortage of independent vintage storefronts both physical and virtual. Check out our guide and if you’ve not yet made the switch to vintage, now is the perfect time to do just that.

THE TOGGERY BROAD RIPPLE, 1810 BROAD RIPPLE AVENUE @THETOGGERYRESALE The Toggery has been around since 1986, and that makes it the OG of the vintage and resale game. This store offers many choices for any style, age and price point. The Toggery focuses primarily on contemporary clothing. The prices are super affordable, but they also have higher-end items in a specific section and in glass cases around the front desk. The selection at The Toggery could seem overwhelming, but everything is well organized and easy to sift through. “The Toggery is fun, funky and has an eclectic style. Oftentimes, shopping is therapy for people, so I think it’s really important to offer a fun personable shopping experience,” general manager, Kristen Sweeney, says. The clothing is curated by an in-house stylist, Laura Walters, who also owns her own styling business Style Riot. Walters styles the mannequins and has a rack that she regularly updates. The Toggery is a great place to get more up-to-date fashion trends at affordable prices and find some vintage gems at the same time. “We get so many items that still have the tags on them. It is important for these items to find a new home because there is nothing wrong with them and they just need a second chance!” Sweeney says.

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REBEL VINTAGE BROAD RIPPLE, 1051 E. 54TH STREET @REBELVINTAGEINDY Owners Tori Sandler and Sara Baldwin have crafted a space that caters to all kinds of styles, ranging from minimal neutrals to bold patterns. They also feature local indie brands like Mama Ochre, run by Gretchen Foster. Their passion for giving old pieces new life is clear in how they care and curate each piece they put in the shop. “What sets our store apart is the fact that we have three main buyers with three totally different aesthetics. Because of that, we are able to offer something to everybody. There are individual brands represented within the store,” Sandler says. Sustainability is weaved into every decision that Baldwin and Sandler make. They also love to support other local brands and businesses. “From our recycled shipping packaging to the secondhand fixtures and displays, it [sustainability] is in the forefront of our business,” Sandler says.

They enjoy giving historical pieces a new life. “I appreciate the history of older styles and the idea that an article of clothing has had a whole life before it came to me,” Baldwin says. Recognizing that shopping for vintage can be intimidating, Baldwin and Sandler have created a shopping atmosphere that is accepting, welcoming and informative. They genuinely want to help you find an outfit you’ll love. “Of course not every person is going to love every piece — that’s the point. We have minimal, easy-to-wear pieces, and we have wild patterns and articles of clothing that folks with bold style are constantly seeking out,” Baldwin says.

“AN ARTICLE OF CLOTHING HAS HAD A WHOLE LIFE BEFORE IT CAME TO ME.”

ZODIAC VINTAGE FOUNTAIN SQUARE, 1060 VIRGINIA AVE @ZODIAC.VINTAGE At Zodiac Vintage, owners Jess Parrotte and Jess Lykens don’t play when it comes to crafting a quality vintage shop. If you’re looking for quality, rare pieces, Zodiac should be the first stop. The space is welcoming, enticing any shopper to want to redo their whole wardrobe with fine vintage finds. Parrotte and Lykens focus on carrying a variety of items that are bold, high-quality classics. Their style can be described as maximalist and eclectic. They’ll work their selections around themes such as a “White Men Can’t Jump” - a rack that hosts bold colors, eighties and nineties Nike pieces, and funky hats. The “Romeo and Juliet” rack holds an inspired selection of floral tees. “We strive to have a really thoughtfully curated mix of vintage eras. A perfect mix of fun, more approachable items, as well as truly rare statement pieces,” they say. With old movies always playing on the store TV via VHS, it really feels as if one has traveled back in time. The store’s shelves are stacked with unique vintage toys, purses and photos. “Giving something beautiful a new life is our business,” they say. The owners here know that sustainability goes hand in hand with owning a vintage shop. Making the choice of vintage is better for the environment and for reducing the amount of money consumers spend on fast fashion brands. “The fast fashion industry is exploitative to its workers and destructive to the environment. Fashion trends are so often a nod to the past. Why not have the actual unique vintage item rather than a cheaply made modern replica?” they say.

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HOT HOUSE MARKET THE FASHION MALL AT KEYSTONE AND COLLEGE MALL AT BLOOMINGTON @HOTHOUSEMARKET Hot House Market was started by co-owners Carrie and Doug Rosen as a place to create a healthy and enjoyable work environment for their employees. The Rosens work full-time alongside their employees. If you want to make good consumer choices, supporting a business that takes care of their employees can have a significant impact. What’s better than giving money to local business owners who are passionate about supporting their employees? “We want employees to have fun meeting people who enjoy bringing out the vintage lifestyle in their daily life while learning the ways of business for individual growth,” Bloomington manager Briana Humphries says. Their stores are located inside malls, an anomaly for most vintage brands. This is great for people who want to start shopping for vintage, but aren’t ready to step completely outside of their comfort zones. Hot House Market is full of silk dresses, unique jean finds and classic jackets pulling together the retro chic vibe of the store. Additionally, the stores carry well organized collections of vinyl and a wide variety of cassette tapes. Stevie Nicks, Frank Sinatra and Willie Nelson are just a few artists one can find. Along with music, they also offer typewriters and smudge kits, completing the list of vintage lifestyle necessities. “The vintage look is about individuality. People get to express little pieces of themselves to the world without having to say anything. It’s not always easy to communicate in words, so people are able to share what they want to say through the art of fashion,” Humphries says.

“I SEE SOMEONE WALKING DOWN THE STREET, AND I WILL KNOW IF THEY ARE WEARING VINTAGE OR IF IT’S A REMAKE BECAUSE OF THE QUALITY.

ONE UP VINTAGE @ONEUP.VINTAGE Chance Spain is the man behind One Up Vintage, an online-only vintage brand. One Up offers specializes in providing classic sports and music related crewnecks, t-shirts and jackets. Even though Spain focuses a lot on sports, he has something for everyone with classic brands, and styles. “The first Goodwill that I actually went into, there were these nineties sports themed jackets. There were eight of them all lined up idealistically as though they were waiting just for me. I felt the quality and how well the items were made and that was it; I was hooked,” Spain says. Spain spends every day sifting through bins at the Goodwill outlet. He has a knack for discerning the quality and worth of items based on texture. Touching the items is an important part of the selection process for him. He has been through so many items, his keen awareness of vintage is like a sixth sense. “I see someone walking down the street, and I will know if they are wearing vintage or if it’s a remake because of the quality,” Spain says. Spain is very organic in the way he runs his business. He focuses on quality, latest trends and being authentic in his style instead of stressing about the perfect aesthetic that people will like. “I never use hashtags. I don’t even put a caption on my photos. A lot of people are trying really hard to differentiate themselves. I never really think about that; I just believe that the quality of clothing will speak for itself,” Spain says.

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VINTAGE UNDONE @VINTAGEUNDONE Lauretta Ndemanu, creator of Vintage Undone, is a 16-year-old who just wanted to do something creative and positive for herself. “I feel like I launched this in a time where I really loved myself the most. It was really natural and true to who I am,” Ndemanu says. Her Instagram account for her shop, while relatively new, looks promising with her delicate aesthetic and items hand selected with intention and style. The style of Vintage Undone is dreamy and classic. Her current selection offers little black slip dresses, colorful mesh pieces, premium jeans and even formal gowns. Her passion for going after what she wants at a young age should be inspiring to anyone. Ndemanu is focused on giving herself opportunities now, and not waiting for anything. “I have a lot of things I want to do in the future. I knew I needed to start somewhere and with something that I enjoy doing, which is shopping and clothes,” Ndemanu says. Finding and selling vintage pieces goes hand in hand with her love of styling. She enjoys picking out clothes for her friends who may not have a knack for finding unique pieces at Goodwill like she does.

GANGGangculture.com 75

PHOTOGRAPHY BY POLINA OSHEROV WORDS BY KHAILA KING DESIGN BY MEGAN GRAY

ALL

Dressed UP Nowhere

TO GO

We visit PATTERN’s past interns at their homes to chat about quarantine style, new things they’re learning and how the they’ve coped with the pandemic.

It’s day 92 of quarantine. Or, maybe 102. You’ve lost track. You’re staring up at your ceiling wondering what today will bring. Your latest Netflix binge has come to an end, the thought of another Zoom meeting makes you want to jump out the nearest window, and you can’t remember the last time you’ve changed your shirt or washed your hair. Before the overwhelming anxiety of what the future holds threatens to overwhelm you, you say, “Screw it, I’m going to get dressed up today!” You put on your favorite fits, comb your hair and apply some lipstick. Did the room just get a little brighter? And your mood, a little lighter? The world’s problems are still here, but there’s something about getting dressed up that changes your posture and attitude, and makes you feel like there’s still hope. We caught up with some of PATTERN’s past interns to see how they’ve been coping with quarantine and discovered that not only do they all have great personal style (DOH!), but they are a resilient bunch who’ve used this strange time to their advantage by learning new skills, fine-tuning priorities, and recognizing what’s important to them.

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OCCUPATION CONTENT CREATOR + FELLOW AT PATTERN

HOMETOWN FRANKLIN, IN

INSTAGRAM @SAM_RIPP

INTERNSHIP YEAR 2018

SAM Ripperger How would you describe your personal style? It's a mix of things. There are some elements that are trendy and some that are simple. I would say minimalist with a twist. I like to mix some vintage pieces, some current pieces and some trendy pieces all together. What does a typical day in quarantine look like for you? If you want me to be honest, I roll out of bed and sit at my desk. I wear the same clothes the whole week, like a sweatshirt and sweatpants, then they go in the washer. For the first month and a half, I worked upstairs at my house. Then, I started working from our kitchen or the desk in my bedroom. I kind of hopped around and changed views so it felt like I was going somewhere different every now and then. How have you stayed motivated during quarantine? It really wasn't hard. With my radio station job in particular, I had to crank out a lot of social media content, so I was easily kept busy doing that as well as keeping up with PATTERN and all of our side projects here. I'd just put on a good playlist, then I'd get to work. Sometimes I would have to change up the location so it wouldn't become too mundane. How has COVID affected your work schedule? In March, I was super stressed with the added workload. I would be working 10 hour days regularly. It was bad. Now, it’s fall and I'm making sure to check out by seven or so and focus on things that I enjoy doing. I’ve gotten back into embroidery. I do that every night, and I read avidly. COVID’s definitely forced me to make more time for myself and realize the importance of that mental health thing, you know? Describe your quarantine experience in three words. Heartbreaking. Lonely. Enlightening. What is one item you couldn't survive quarantine without? Why? My twin sister, Paige. A month into quarantine our dog passed away so that's why it was heartbreaking. Paige has definitely been there for me the whole time. We've been there for each other. She's been someone to lean on and talk to about things that our parents wouldn’t understand. I couldn't have survived without her. Describe your go-to quarantine look. I've been into high-waisted flare pants and a really cool t-shirt and then either a really cool pair of booties or a fancy slip-on shoe. Have you learned anything new or developed any unusual skills? Baking. I've baked before but not this often. It’s so much fun trying new recipes every week. I made a Reese’s cheesecake, chocolate zucchini bread and homemade brownies. Those had to be my favorite. I didn't realize that brownies could be made without a box mix, so those were literally gone in two days. Baking has been amazing!

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OCCUPATION FREELANCE PHOTOGRAPHER

HOMETOWN INDIANAPOLIS, IN

INSTAGRAM @XTINA_SOMAR

INTERNSHIP YEAR 2019

CHRISTINA Ramos How would you describe your personal style? I would say rock and roll, with a little bit of gypsy. Those are two genres and styles that really speak to me. What does a typical day in quarantine look like for you? I get up, make coffee and breakfast for my husband and I, clean the house and run errands. Right now, I feel like a housewife because there's not much going on. There's nothing too exciting right now, but I'm hoping for more exciting things. How have you stayed motivated during quarantine? Spending time with my family, either social-distance style or near one another when we can. Also, creating, because it is something that comes natural to me. Everything is kind of limited because of quarantine, but I am trying to make the best out of what I have. As a photographer, you want to work with certain models or in a certain location, but now I'm forced to be more creative and work with what I have, whether that means shooting in my backyard or scavenging through my own garage for inspiration. I'm trying to stay off social media because sometimes I would find myself comparing myself to others, saying “I wish I could be doing more,” or “I wish I could be doing this.” I'm trying to find creativity within myself instead of trying to find it in others. Describe your quarantine experience. It’s been a blessing in disguise. It’s been a lot of self-reflection and it's been challenging. What is one item you couldn't survive quarantine without? Why? My family. They keep me motivated and positive. If it was an actual object, probably just my sketchbook. It's where I can write my feelings or express myself if I need to and translate it into something more. Describe your go-to quarantine look. I wear a lot of black so maybe some black sneakers. I really like the Nike Cortez sneakers, the black and white ones. Maybe some black joggers and a cute top. I'm a big earring person, so always earrings. Big, heavy, statement earrings to be exact. Have you learned anything new or developed any unusual skills? I’ve learned a lot of recipes, both good and bad. When I say bad, I mean things that aren't good for you. I’ve learned a lot about my community and what’s going on in the world. We’re just so comfortable in our own lives we don't realize the things that are going on around us. The things going on right now are heartbreaking, but it’s pushing me to be a better person. I've also had a lot of time to think about what really makes me happy. Life is short and there's more to life than sitting on your couch and being on your phone even if it feels like that’s all we are limited to right now. Sometimes it just takes stepping out into your backyard and taking a moment to appreciate what's around you.

“ I’m trying to find creativity within myself instead of trying to find it in others.” 79

EUAN & JULIE Makepeace

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E: OCCUPATION GRADUATE STUDENT, BUTLER UNIVERSITY HOMETOWN LOUGHBOROUGH, ENGLAND INSTAGRAM @EUANJMAK INTERNSHIP YEAR 2018 J: OCCUPATION GRAPHIC DESIGNER HOMETOWN PORTLAND, IN INSTAGRAM @THEJULIEVALENTINE INTERNSHIP YEAR 2016

“It’s always nice to get something accomplished, knowing that you’ve done something for the day that’s worthwhile...”

How would you describe your personal style? Julie: I wear a lot of neutral colors. In the last two years, I’ve added some color to my wardrobe. Some days I'm more leisure, some days I'm more east coast, and in the summer, I feel like I have a wide array of clothes. Definitely more feminine in the summer. Euan: Jeans, most of the time, plain white tees, but then occasionally more colorful and established streetwear pieces. Nothing too over the top. What does a typical day in quarantine look like for you? Julie: Euan runs for Butler, and I ran in college as well, so we get up pretty early in the morning and run together. Then we get back and we always have oatmeal. After breakfast, I usually just sit at my computer and I work. We like to go on walks a lot during the day, talk about things and get some fresh air. He usually makes me dinner while I'm finishing up work. We've been binge watching a lot of shows. We've had a lot of life changes this summer with us getting married and Euan going back to school. We just moved back to Indy from St. Louis, so making a home together has been our quarantine project. Euan: The nice thing about that is it hasn’t been a big project that we pushed ourselves to do in one weekend. It's been a process. We've bought plants, a record player which is fun, tables, just little things like that once in a while to add homeyness to the place. How have you stayed motivated during quarantine? Julie: I call my parents and my sister a lot to talk about things that I’m struggling with. I think running, getting outside and exercising really helps us get our day started and keep moving. Euan: Same there, definitely getting on with the day, getting up early. It's always nice to get something accomplished, just knowing that you've done something for the day that's worthwhile and knowing that there’s always a light at the end of

the tunnel. Sometimes things get a little stressful, and it's difficult to stay motivated, but at the same time, I think we've both done pretty well recognizing that we still are working towards the same end goal, and it’s still there in our minds. Julie: Switching up the routine every once in a while too if you can. Describe your quarantine experience in three words. Challenging, but rewarding What is one item you couldn't survive quarantine without? Why? Julie: Euan’s would be his noise cancelling headphones. My cat would be mine. I don't even know if that counts. Describe your go-to quarantine look. Julie: Oh geez! There's so many options, what's the weather like? Euan: I’ll jump in. I have a pair of white pants that have a floral accent at the bottom. I'd probably go with a turtleneck for the top. Then, maybe a pair of dress shoes. Julie: For the PATTERN art issue launch, I wore a floral shiny oversized blazer. I paired it with a thick belt and wore leggings and over-the-knee boots. I don't have those specific boots anymore, but I have these camel colored suede boots that would be cute with it as well. Maybe curly or wavy hair and some dramatic makeup. Have you learned anything new or developed any unusual skills? Julie: We got a record player so we learned a lot about buying vinyls and how to take care of them. I feel like I’ve gotten more into politics as well since we've been quarantining. Euan: I started a blog. It’s fallen off a little bit, but I'd like to get back into that.

OCCUPATION PHOTOGRAPHER, VISUAL ARTIST, MUSICIAN

HOMETOWN CARMEL, IN

INSTAGRAM @cott0ne

INTERNSHIP YEAR 2019

MICHAEL Cottone “It’s a lot of self-motivation...You have to look past your limits and get crafty with how you can stay productive.”

How would you describe your personal style? Very DIY. Nothing fast fashion. I usually wear something a little flashy, something androgynous, and dress mostly to please myself, not to please others. I like lots of color and patterns. What does a typical day in quarantine look like for you? Since I haven't been able to actually work since COVID has been happening, it's been a lot of painting. I moved back from Muncie, because I graduated. Living there I would kind of get up, mess around and go paint in the garage I had there. Since I've been home, it's been painting, lots of fashion photography with my friends, and a lot of plotting for what I can do next once this thing moves forward and we can look past it. How have you stayed motivated during quarantine? Continuing to create. If I'm not doing that, I'm not really doing anything besides looking around for places to work or to live, all that adult stuff that you don't want to worry about, but you have to worry about unfortunately. It's a lot of self-motivation, because it's very easy when you're locked up inside to feel like you can't do anything. You have to look past your limits and get crafty with how you can stay productive whether that be with new things or old things that you’re already good at. I’ve been using a journaling technique called “Morning Pages” that I learned about from a book called The Artist’s Way. The author, Julia Cameron, recommends that when you get up in the morning to grab a journal and write three pages of anything that comes to your mind. It could be gibberish, it could be your dreams, it could be ideas, it could be anything. It kind of separates your logical brain from your creative brain and that's been a good technique for me to let my artist brain roam free.

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Describe your quarantine experience in three words. Creative. Expanding. Looking forward. What is one item you couldn't survive quarantine without? Why? Not only emotional support, but support in general. I think with everyone being locked up in their houses, we can sometimes forget what support can look like. I think support is the biggest thing, because that is what has driven me to keep painting, to keep writing and what is also making me realize this is really all temporary. Describe your go-to quarantine look. I came out as nonbinary in April so androgyny has been something that I've been experimenting with a lot. Actually, I've been experimenting with androgyny for many years, but having the time to think about how I want to express my gender through clothing, or even makeup, has been nice. I would say a crop top, easy flowing shorts, some of my friends’ designs, and really whatever I can find. Have you learned anything new or developed any unusual skills? The two biggest things for me have been dissecting my love for painting and my love for making music. I've loved music all my life and I've always advocated for local and weirder stuff. I actually started making my own music in May and it turned out to be a lot better than I ever could have anticipated. Those are the two biggest skills that I could attribute to quarantine. I've also been learning how to be patient; that's another huge thing for me.

OCCUPATION LIFESTYLE BLOGGER, WRITER

HOMETOWN PHOENIX, AZ

INSTAGRAM @CACTISCANDY

INTERNSHIP YEAR 2015

CANDACE Cox How would you describe your personal style? I’ve always been pretty eclectic. One day I can be dressed like a French cowboy, the next day I'm a goth princess, and the day after that I’m a boho goddess. Ultimately, I just like to play around with mixing textures, patterns and colors to see if I can create something that looks new and interesting. I also like to incorporate some vintage stuff. What does a typical day in quarantine look like for you? I am working on my master’s right now. I’m studying creative writing and literature, so I’ll wake up and work on pages for my proposal that's due. Then, I will do some contract work for my freelance gigs. After that, I will search for other freelance work and probably go out and do a photoshoot, completely socially distanced, in a place that is not heavily populated. When I get back home, I try to do a cleaning project every day, but that doesn't always happen. How have you stayed motivated during quarantine? I spent the first week rotting my eyes out just watching television, and I got massive headaches and decided that can never happen again. That was pretty much the motivation. I didn't want to become a couch zombie. Describe your quarantine experience in three words. Reflection. Growth. Laughable, which sounds bad, but I’ve been staying with my parents so it’s very funny when everybody in your family starts to crack from being together inside for so long. What is one item you couldn't survive quarantine without? Why? My laptop. If I wasn’t able to take moments to leave my brain and just watch something or read about something, that would be awful. If I didn't have the ability to edit photos and work on my blog or work on my novel, it would be awful. At this time, being able to do research and to get statistics about what's going on in our world and our country is extremely important. If I didn't have the ability to access outside information from what my brain already knows I would be running outside without a mask and saying, “What? There’s a protest? I wonder why?” Describe your go-to quarantine look. I would never be able to dub myself as a makeup guru, but I have been playing with a lot of bold eyeshadow looks. I did one for Pride that was rainbow, and I was so proud of it. Just being really playful and putting on really excessive dangling earrings and a big flowy dress that makes me feel like a fairy. That's the go-to. I want to feel like a princess locked away in her castle. Have you learned anything new or developed any unusual skills? It’s not necessarily an unusual skill, but I have been working on editing videos. I did my first IGTV and after going through about 30 headaches trying to figure out how to edit it, export it and post it, I was like, “This is insane!” I have major respect for people who do this as a job. I like the challenge and I want to see if I can grow with this medium.

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OCCUPATION FREELANCE STYLIST

HOMETOWN INDIANAPOLIS, IN

INSTAGRAM @ASHCRAIN16

INTERNSHIP YEAR 2019

ASHLEY Crain “ I know who I am, but I’m working on being the best me that I can be.” How would you describe your personal style? My personal style is very eclectic. I like to wear a lot of blacks and reds with harnesses and chains, but I can also wear soft outfits that are really feminine. Growing up, I was a tomboy so I like being able to tap into my femine side. How have you stayed motivated during quarantine? It’s honestly been kind of hard because I do struggle with depression, but people bringing opportunities to me, because I've worked so hard getting my name and my brand out there, motivates me. I feel like people know who I am and why I dress the way I do when I get to know them. Photographers will come to me and want me to model. I was just in my friend’s music videos and I was able to meet new photographers, network and see what other people are working on. That motivates me to keep creating. Describe your quarantine experience in three words. Creative. Reconnecting, not only with my friends, but with myself. Self-discovery. How have you been practicing self care these past few months? I have been prioritizing self-care during quarantine because I do struggle with depression. I've been doing a lot of face masks, bubble baths, things like that. I've spent time looking deep within myself to discover things that I want to improve. I know who I am, but I'm working on being the best me that I can be. What is one item you couldn't survive quarantine without? Why? My roommates. We have been quarantining together so it's been a bonding experience and we've gone through so much together. I would not trade them for the world. Describe your go-to quarantine look. Recently, I've been wearing a lot of biker shorts, and I like to wear my Nike Air Force 1s with ankle socks. I always have on a gold chain and some type of tank top. And a high pony of course. Have you learned anything new or developed any unusual skills? I learned how to do acrylic liquid nails. I also taught myself how to tailor my clothes, because it's hard to find clothes to fit me the way I want them to.

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OCCUPATION FREELANCE STYLIST

HOMETOWN INDIANAPOLIS, IN

INSTAGRAM @MRS.PIBB

INTERNSHIP YEAR 2015

LANIE Yorgen “I’m excited to see what the fashion industry is going to look like after this, after tearing down racist structures within the industry. That’s what’s kept me going.”

How would you describe your personal style? It changes every so often, but currently I’m stuck in the modern 70s. I like a lot of current trends. I like a big chunky shoe and flare pants and, because I'm really into vintage, I'll take some of that stuff right out of the 70s and throw a modern twist on it. What does a typical day in quarantine look like for you? Back when we were full in lockdown, it looked like coffee, flipping through my coffee table books and soaking it up. I went through my closet and dressed things up that I hadn't worn out before, and then I'd straight kick it. Maybe a midday drink. Then, the night begins. It’s a bit of a blur, in a good way. How have you stayed motivated during quarantine? Thinking of the outfits I could not wait to show off and go out in. Taking all the things that I gathered inspiration from and being like, “Here's how I'm going to style this” and taking it to a shoot. I'm really excited to see what the fashion industry is going to look like after this, after tearing down racist structures within the industry. That's what's kept me going. Where is this going to go? I don't know, and I have to keep up with that.

What is one item you couldn't survive quarantine without? Why? I would say my slide-on slippers. They're cute to look at and you can still hop on down to whatever nearby. You don't have to change at all. Describe your go-to quarantine look. Something I would go out in, like maybe dancing. I would go for a green top and some vintage flare pants, and because I'm feeling cute that day, I’d probably throw on my white gogo boots. Maybe a head scarf if I'm feeling flirty. How do you maintain a social life in quarantine? Picnics in the park! I go to Holliday Park a lot. We pitch in and lay out some cute blankets and bring our little dog. It's really fun and it's a great reason to throw on something cute and summery. Have you learned anything new or developed any unusual skills? Skillswise, I tried at the keyboard and I gave it up. I think I learned the importance of caring for those around you. It sounds really simple. I think with quarantine, you start to think about who everyone around you is.

Describe your quarantine experience in three words. Enlightening. Cooky. Necessary.

OCCUPATION CONTENT CREATOR

HOMETOWN FAYETTE, IN

INSTAGRAM @TYSONTHETYRANT

INTERNSHIP YEAR 2018

TY Stratton “What motivates me the most is wanting to find stability... so I can do the things that I want to do most in life.”

How would you describe your personal style? My personal style is very much derived from streetwear. I owned a streetwear apparel brand for six years. I've always been in love with Vans, and I generally like loose fitting clothes—things that hang off the body. I don't like anything that's too tight, and I'm a really big fan of t-shirts. That's what I sold all those years. What does a typical day in quarantine look like for you? I wake up and I get the crusties out of my eyes. I apply to as many jobs as I can. At the beginning, I was just applying to anything, but now it's more concise—I know what I want. I also picked up different hobbies during quaratine like cross-stitching and streaming. Overall, it's been a really big time for reflection. How have you stayed motivated during quarantine? Good question. What motivates me the most is wanting to find stability in my life. I know you talk to Polina, and she’s like, “Enjoy this time. You’ll never get it again.” I just want to be stable financially so I can do the things that I want to do most in life. Most of those things are side hustles. I want to be able to stream actively. I want to be able to make videos actively, and I don't think having a nine-to-five would get in the way of that. Right now, I’m kind of in this limbo in between graduating and still looking for a job. I just really don’t like this part. Describe your quarantine experience in three words. Reflective has to be in there. Anxious and driven. Driven is such a good word. I'm constantly on the grind to do something, to make something of myself.

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What is one item you couldn't survive quarantine without? Why? My mom made me a blanket when I graduated from high school. It's a collection of all the t-shirts I wore throughout school. The field trip t-shirts and sporting event t-shirts. She sewed them all into a blanket. Wherever I go, when I go outside to meditate, that's the blanket I take with me. If I'm just chilling at my computer, that's the blanket I have over me. When I'm going to sleep, that's the blanket that's over me. It’s been really comforting to know where you came from while hoping for the future. Describe your go-to quarantine look. Going along with the bagginess, it would be some looser fitting pants and a nice hoodie. Obviously, I'm not wearing shoes indoors, so I'd be wearing socks and that's about it. Just vibing for the rest of the day. Have you learned anything new or developed any unusual skills? I've learned how to lean into things a little bit more and roll with the punches. Everybody's learning how to roll with the punches during COVID, but in terms of the day-to-day, it does take a toll on your emotions. I’ve learned to adapt and have built a certain level of tenacity. The biggest thing I've learned is that I use humor a lot to cope with stress and anxiety. I don’t think that’s a bad thing, but it's good to acknowledge that about yourself. That way, when you are struggling and you realize you're telling too many jokes, you can say to yourself, “Maybe just take a step back and reflect on what you’re going through.”

ABOUT FACE PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHLOE GIANNA STYLE, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY NICOLE TENEROWICZ NAILS BY TARA VALENTINE MODEL NICOLE TENEROWICZ

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COAT VINTAGE BLOUSE VINTAGE SKIRT BERMANS SHOES PLEASER HARNESS LEATHER QVEEN MASK JULIA CLANCEY

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SLIP VINTAGE TOP SEARS PANTS KTOO VEST VINTAGE MASK SHELBY JESSUP

DRESS VINTAGE MASK AKIRA CHOKER LEATHER QVEEN

COAT VINTAGE MASK SHELBY JESSUP

COAT VINTAGE BLOUSE VINTAGE MASK JULIA CLANCEY

DRESS VINTAGE HARNESS MODELS OWN MASK SHELBY JESSUP

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It’s common knowledge that the U.S. makes only a small percentage of the apparel and accessories Americans consume. For assorted reasons, some of which were intentional decisions about the direction of the U.S. economy, domestic apparel manufacturing began to decline in the 1990s. This sector hasn’t shown any signs of a significant rebound, despite a lively nationwide makers movement.

The moment Vandermar references is one in which technology has blurred lines between industries that were once distinct from each other in terms of the materials used to make them. “There are so many ways to fabricate things now,” she says. “In the future, we’ll be talking more about flexible product fabrication.” Vandermar cites several B2B industries that use sewn products made in America. For safety reasons, some protective clothing is still domestically made. Industries where customization, intellectual property, and national security are factors—maritime, aerospace, and military products, for example—use American-made sewn goods, as do consumer goods manufacturers of products like furniture and recreational outdoor gear. “We [Industrial Sewing and Innovation Center] will be doing consumer goods, but there’s a lot of opportunity in the B2B sector,” she says.

FILLING IN SMALL-BATCH MANUFACTURING GAPS

With that as background, a keen business mind may wonder what’s on the other side of the industrial sewing education StitchWorks intends to offer. Where are the job opportunities for graduates of the program? What types of businesses need these skills?

Trade rules that protected the textile product industry started to disappear in the 1970s. Independent apparel designers and entrepreneurs with ideas for sewn products started to feel the loss of a robust industry that could help launch and expand business by the early 1990s.

The quick answer: the market for sewn goods is bigger—much bigger—than just apparel and accessories, according to Deborah Vandermar, a skills development consultant who is helping StitchWorks establish a standards-based education and apprenticeship program in Indianapolis. Vandermar had a long and diverse career in the sewn goods industry and taught industrial sewing and product development for manufacturers, colleges, and vocational schools. She also co-authored Beyond Design: The Synergy of Apparel Product Development, a textbook that’s been used globally to train people in the apparel industry.

Four years ago, Travis Neal invented a special vest for law enforcement officers. “I just didn’t like the ones that were on the market,” says Neal, who works for the Purdue University Police Department. “They didn’t do the things I wanted them to do.” Convinced that other law enforcement officers shared his dissatisfaction, Neal completed LaunchBox, a six-week entrepreneurship program at Purdue University, and launched Focus Tactical Design.

Four years ago, she came out of retirement to help design a new apprenticeship program for Detroit’s Industrial Sewing and Innovation Center. She recently moved from Seattle to Detroit to be an integral part of that program, which partners with Henry Ford College to deliver prerequisite training. In replicating a similar program here, possibly in partnership with Ivy Tech Community College, StitchWorks joins a fleet of organizations and manufacturers around the country with comparable goals.

SHORING UP AMERICA’S MANUFACTURING CAPACITY WITH TRAINING Vandermar’s approach employs vocational training methods founded in the 1980s, before the U.S. began its shift from manufacturing toward a service economy. Decades later, American manufacturers are depending on experts like Vandemar to help reclaim discarded knowledge about vocational training. “Without being too mystical, I feel like this is my purpose,” she says. “All the things I learned in my life, being at the machine, being in factories all over the world, teaching people all over the world academically and vocationally—all those steps brought me to this moment.”

With the help of Catherine Fritsch, owner of Mercurious Designs, an Arcadia, Indiana company that offers design, pattern making, and custom sewing services, Neal worked on several prototypes before settling on a design. The final product is a vest that slides over bulletproof panels and has pouches that allow officers to spread gear comfortably on their torsos rather than carrying everything on a belt. Neal was passionate about making his products in the U.S., preferably in central Indiana, but the manufacturers he approached either had their own work or required such large minimum orders that it wasn’t financially viable for Neal’s start-up. “It was very tough to get any kind of manufacturing done in small batches here in Indiana,” he says. “It took a lot of leg work for me to find people who can do the quantities I need and have the right industrial equipment for the work.” His vests are made on demand by Fritsch and two other central Indiana stitchers.

THE VOCATIONAL TRAINING MODEL THE VOCATIONAL TRAINING VANDERMAR DESIGNS FOR ORGANIZATIONS LIKE STITCHWORKS USES A SIMPLE, THREE-STEP PROCESS TO TEACH ADULTS STANDARD SKILLS.

01 Gather a consortium of stakeholders in an industry that has an interest in people working well. Get those stakeholders to specify their industry’s top 10 skills.

02 Agree on the best methods for teaching those 10 skills and design a corresponding curriculum that mixes a variety of experiential and classroom teaching.

03 Design a testing method to verify students have mastered the knowledge.

Fritsch helps designers make samples to show their products to prospective buyers. When clients reach the point that they need to start manufacturing, they’re sent to other cities in search of small batch manufacturers. “Every cut and sew manufacturer I know of is immediately overwhelmed with orders when they start,” Fritsch says. “It’s hard to say how many people are out there who need to have their products made—I think it’s more than we imagine.” 97

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Everyone remembers what they were doing the day the coronavirus pandemic shut down the world as we knew it. At PATTERN, the public health crisis coincided with the formal launch of a two-pronged enterprise known as StitchWorks. The charter: small-batch production sewing services and vocational education for minorities and underserved people who want a related job or advanced sewing skills. The idea of StitchWorks was hatched in 2010 when PATTERN was just a fledgling. In the decade that followed, the team did their homework. They wrote grants, did feasibility studies, and substantiated the need in the regional economy for production sewing capacity. After securing space in the Circle City Industrial Complex and assembling a team of experts to teach classes in 2019, StitchWorks was set to start phase one of a staged plan in March. The first phase was only meant to launch a structured training program. Once industrial sewing talent and operating space were ready, StitchWorks theorized it could move to the next phase, satisfying small-batch production requirements for designers of apparel and other sewn products. A few days before the March grand opening, StitchWorks Director Polina Osherov got a call that changed everything. Could StitchWorks make and deliver 2500 surgical gowns for Eskenazi Health within two weeks? Not exactly the launch they had planned, but the bonafide order for production sewing was a win for health care workers in need of personal protective equipment (PPE). It also gave StitchWorks a chance to prove how scrappy it could be.

“We didn’t really have the people in place yet,” Osherov says. She could have demurred on that account, but PATTERN is a well-oiled crowdsourcing machine, and when Osherov’s team put out a call for help, over 80 hobbiests and professional stitchers offered to make the needed gowns and masks at home. StitchWorks’ nimble response impressed Tedd Grain, executive director at Local Initiatives Support Corporation (LISC), a community development finance institution. LISC partners with organizations like PATTERN to build communities that are welcoming places to live, work, play and learn. One of their investments is the Circle City Industrial Complex, where StitchWorks is one of 160 tenants. When Grain learned that Eskenazi Health needed a surgical gown supplier, he paired them with StitchWorks. Then came a flurry of activity, including making patterns, writing assembly instructions for stitchers, and partnering with the Dallara IndyCar Factory, which offered to cut fabric for the gowns at no charge. “It was a crash course in production sewing,” says Catherine Fritsch, owner of Mercurious Designs and advisor to StitchWorks. StitchWorks’ ability to pivot under duress bodes well for the organization’s future, in Grain’s opinion. “As a city, we should not be caught in the situation where there are no local suppliers of lifesaving equipment and PPE,” he says. “Even if local production is slightly more expensive, it makes sense that hospitals and health care systems invest in making sure that there’s local capacity so we don’t get caught in the situation again where we’re dependent on a foreign country. We have really capable people here, doing amazing things.” 99

A visual diary of May 2020 Black Lives Matter protests in downtown Indianapolis. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHEAL COTTONE, POLINA OSHEROV DESIGN BY KATHY DAVIS

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CREATING A NEW SCHOOL OF THOUGHT ABOUT

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y b s o phot losotu in k A Val . P r M and

ZYKERA TUCKER CREATED GUMS NOT GUNS WITH THE CREATIVE SCHOOL TO INSPIRE NEIGHBORS AND COMMUNITY MEMBERS TO STICK AROUND AND CREATE SOLUTIONS TO THE CHALLENGES THAT FUEL THEIR DISCONTENT. PHOTO BY DEE DWYER

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“OUR YOUNG PEOPLE NEED TO BELIEVE THAT THE WORLD THAT THEY INHERITED GIVES THEM ACCESS TO A LIFE OF QUALITY, INSTEAD OF ONE THAT SAYS YOU DON'T HAVE ACCESS TO A LIFE LIKE THIS BECAUSE YOU LIVE IN A NEIGHBORHOOD WITH 150,000 RESIDENTS AND TWO GROCERY STORES, AND HAVE A 48 PERCENT CHANCE OF GRADUATING FROM HIGH SCHOOL. WE NEED TO DISRUPT THAT NARRATIVE IN THE WAY THAT WE ADDRESS THEM EVERY SINGLE DAY.”

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A self-described “overstuffed midwesterner” from Sioux Falls, South Dakota named Hugh Weber met Mr. P (Marshall Pollard) on a bus in Geneva, Switzerland in 2015. Mr. P saw Weber walking down the aisle looking for a seat and told him to sit down, that he looked foolish just standing there. Unbeknownst to them, that bus ride would start a friendship, based on shared values from radically different backgrounds. Weber and Mr. P discovered they both believed that reform is necessary at a governmental policy level, but that it begins at the grassroots level in local communities and that the future is found in nurturing young leaders who are too often dismissed by mainstream society. The bus was heading to a Global Shapers meeting, part of the World Economic Forum. The program brought together community leaders from all over the world to curate the next generation of emerging leaders in their respective communities. Mr. P recalls that he first felt a connection to Weber because they were both outsiders. Weber is a former political consultant from DC turned creative community organizer in his hometown of Sioux Falls. Mr. P, a community organizer from Birmingham, felt like an outsider nearly every time he walked into a room because of how the world is set up to interpret the color of his skin. Weber and Mr. P both believe in the power of building networks. A network theorist, Weber travels to various communities speaking about how networks are formed. ROI (Relationships of Influence) is one of his core concepts, based on the theory that the people in our circles of influence directly impact our personal well-being and professional success. Mr. P also believes in the power of networks and has spent much of his life creating circles of chairs for all power dynamics in recreation centers and school cafeterias. His core concept of relationship-building is creating intergenerational networks, where community members of all ages are seen, heard, and valued together. They travel in different circles of opportunity and “inheritance,” as Mr. P likes to call it. Weber’s audience tends to be professionally focused and come from a place of educated and cultural privilege, whereas Mr. P’s people live in marginalized neighborhoods where a resilient community is formed in resistance to the oppressive systems they’ve inherited. Mr. P invited Weber to come share his network theory with queens and kings, teachers and families at the school he was teaching in Southeast DC at the time. When Weber shares the story of that day, he says that an epiphany happened within himself. He shared diagrams of dots at a table (relationships of influence) and explained how each table influenced the next and the next, just like he’d done a thousand times before. When he finished, Mr. P turned to Zakari, an eighth grade student, and asked him what he thought about what he’d just seen. The boy looked at the map of dots and lines and said, "These dots over here, they

know each other and they're here dancing and singing and thriving and having a great time. And these dots over here are disconnected. (They) don't know as many people and they're quiet and they might be lonely. And if we can get these dots and these dots to share stories, then everyone can be well." Zakari didn’t see it as something to leverage, but a way to bridge people. That would become one of the cornerstones for a school Mr. P would soon create— The Creative School (TCS). The Creative School is all about intergenerational creativity that proves wellness is contagious. Their students (ages eight to 18), from the Southside of Washington DC, are referred to as Queens and Kings. Their inherent power has missioned TCS to equip them to invite their peers and elders to show up, stick around, and stay connected. Designed to be the bridge between schools and stoops, it was born out of a belief that young people should have power in what they choose to do in their day— and their life. It was designed to disrupt the narrative that tells young people they don’t have access to a life of quality. They shift the narrative by implementing story-centered design; a process of equipping designers of all ages to realize the connective power of stories by designing solutions to individual and communal challenges. Through this method, Queens and Kings invite elders and friends (their relationships of influence) living in the neighborhood to share stories and ideas on what the community needs. From this input, the students prototype and design programs, products, and services that honor the stories of their place and elevate wellbeing. Initially, the students designed chess clubs, baseball teams, and yoga sessions (all which still exist). These bring the community together physically. They’ve also created a product that they take out into the community named Soufside D.R.I.P. (Designing Relationships Inspiring Peace). It is a fresh pressed juice that the Queens and Kings manufacture with a local juicer. This product creates the value-exchange for ideas and stories. Currently, the juice is free, in exchange for an idea of what the community should create together. The long-term plan is to charge for it which will create financial literacy for the community and wealth creation for the youth and elders who want to invest in a grassroots effort.

ABOUT THE PHOTOS 01 — 04 The Chocolate City experience celebrates Black culture by supporting Black businesses and communities

05 Weber and Mr. P at their first meeting in 2015 in Geneva, Switzerland at the World Economic Forum

06 Weber travels the country to share his network theories and how our relationships of influence directly impact our well-being and success

Mr. P uses Beverly Tatum’s analogy comparing the design of our oppressive society with that of moving walkways in airports. “It’s a thing that's set up before you're born, and it's moving to advance a cause, an ability to get somewhere. There are certain people by their birthright who have access to this moving walkway. Some people who, because of their access, stand on it and take advantage of the system. Some love it so much that they walk or run in the direction, and some are aware of its tragic flaws and they walk backwards. Some are so committed to those tragic flaws that they're underneath the moving walkway dismantling it so that it doesn't work. “When we think about the answers we need in this moment, it's less about the dichotomy between those inside or outside of our communities. It’s more about the need to be on the same page about the walkway, not to have arguments that the walkway exists. If we can collectively, both governments and our members of the community say, ‘What's the new system? What's the new walkway that is more expansive, that is more available for all people? Then we have a chance to create equity, not just equality.” Weber and Mr. P continue to collaborate on ways to manifest this vision. An epiphany shared between two friends became an opportunity for so many more. And it all started with a chance meeting on a bus. 111

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Be yourself. don’t worry what others think of your dreams. WORDS BY ALYSEAH RUGGS PHOTOGRAPHY BY POLINA OSHEROV STYLE BY SARIAH BOROM DESIGN BY HANNAH GARDNER

Young entrepreneur, Erikka Franklin, is a force to be reckoned with. At just 13, Franklin’s creative eye and undeniable talent has led her to launch her own fashion line consisting of custom fanny packs and t-shirts. Her entrepreneurial spirit does not fall too far from the tree. Franklin’s mother, Amber, was instrumental in her journey to entrepreneurship. With years of business ownership already under her belt, Amber planted the seeds of financial independence, self-confidence and innovation in Erikka at an early age. Since the age of six, Erikka has been sewing, designing and discovering many ways to make her dreams a reality. With her mother’s expertise and full support in her corner, Erikka has evolved into a true go-getter. Whether she’s designing products or making her clothes, her uniqueness expands onto her social accounts, where she displays her individuality through bold, bright colors and positivity. Alyseah Ruggs: How old were you when you decided to start Fanny So Fab and why did you want to start it?

the ability to post pictures and easily engage with your audience, it’s great! But quarantine has made me start really loving Pinterest. I use Pinterest to look at nail designs, crafting or design inspiration. AR: You are a young woman of many talents, sewing and crafting being two of them. What other cool talents or skills do you have? EF: Well I’ve been sewing since I was five. I also swim, do gymnastics and dance, and I love being outside riding my bike and getting fresh air. AR: What does fashion mean to you? EF: Fashion means individuality. Fashion is so inspiring. Sewing alone has become therapy for me. I love being able to sit down and get in the zone. AR: Describe your personal style.

EF: One day I will throw on a track suit and Erikka Franklin: I was 12, so about a year ago. sneakers, the next I’m wearing a dress, and an I love fanny packs and it bothered me that hour later I could be in jeans. I definitely love a I could never find any cute ones that fit my casual fit though. personality, so I decided to make them myself! AR: Where are your favorite places to shop? AR: What is your favorite fanny pack that you’ve I shop at Forever21, but recently online EVER made, can you describe it? shopping has been my go-to. I usually find my EF: My fanny packs are all a reflection of me shoes on Flashybox.com. They have AMAZING and my personality, so it’s hard to single out shoes! Any other time, I’m usually thrifting and one. But if I ABSOLUTELY had to pick one, then upcycling my clothes. I love a good Saturday I would say my fave is a gold fanny pack that sale at Goodwill. I’m always dyeing, bleaching has lots of rhinestones and vibrant colors on or cutting up clothes to make something new it.There’s also this beautiful chain and sewing and uniquely me. machine decoration on it. AR: What’s your favorite social media platform and why? EF: My favorite platform is probably Instagram because it’s so easy and universal. It’s a great app to advertise on. Between the Insta stories,

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AR: Do you follow any other designers (younger or older)? What are their names?

AR: What inspires the designs for your fanny packs?

AR: Where do you see yourself in three to five years from now?

EF: I love following other young entrepreneurs! It keeps me on my feet and its very inspiring when my feed matches my motives. @shinebrightkaleyce @justtemple @sadathedancer @curlainistas @braidsbyjamila @ohhey.girl

EF: There are so many things that inspire me. If I go outdoors, or have a customer with something specific in mind, I usually outsource inspiration to get a beautiful end result. Other times, the ideas come randomly and I just make a point to bring them to life.

EF: I want to go to college and I want to pursue fashion. I want to ensure that over that time I am focusing on myself and making sure that I have great mental health so that I can steadily be evolving. I want to keep setting goals and seeing where they take me.

AR: Who is your BIGGEST inspiration?

AR: What is your dream career?

EF: My mom is my HUGE inspiration because she’s always there for me. She knows a lot and has helped me so much! Rhianna is also an inspiration of mine because she’s a fashionista like me and I love the person that she is. She’s admirable.

EF: My dream career is the career I am developing now, but in the future I see it on a much larger scale. If I’m not a fashion designer then maybe I will be a lawyer; but then again maybe not because I don’t like arguing!

AR: What do your friends think of your business? Are they supportive?

AR: If you could live anywhere in the world, where would it be and why?

I am so thankful for the friends that I have and that they are a consistent group I can turn to on my journey. I feel like it’s so important to be aware of the people you surround yourself with because it plays a key role in who you are and can be as a person. AR: What advice do you have for others who want to become entrepreneurs?

EF: I would be in New York or Africa. I love the scenery and the environment in New York even though it has a few rats here and there. I think it’s the perfect place to be for fashion and I love to go there to be inspired. I want to go to Africa because when I think of Africa, I think of the beauty, the people, and the patterns. I like the thought of trying new things and exploring new places.

EF: BE YOURSELF! Don’t worry about what others think of your dreams. To others, that idea you carry may be crazy, but it’s perfect for you so just go for it because you never know until you try.

AR: What does it mean for you to be a young black creative?

AR: How do you balance school and your business? EF: It gets challenging sometimes but no pain, no gain, right? I’m usually making most of my products during the summer so that it’s easier on me during the school year. I’m always organizing and trying to promote my business so that it can grow. It gets challenging, but I balance it well. I love the results and benefits I get from doing both well. AR: What does a day in the life of Erikka look like? EF: I don’t usually do alarms. I like to go to bed early and then wake up refreshed and ready for my day naturally. My calendar is my lifeline because without it I couldn’t get through the day. Plus, every week is different so organization is key. On average I wake up, brush my teeth, the normal things. Then, I do school work, mail my fanny packs, eat lunch and work on developing my business. But if I have a free day, I’m definitely watching a movie or a show.Recently I’ve been watching the Fresh Prince of Bel-Air.

It means a lot because we are the future and I feel that it is important to keep on working and moving towards our goals as black people. It’s inspiring and I get to inspire other people whether they look like me or not. ✂

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FAITH BLACKWELL. PHOTOGRAPHER. ENTREPRENEUR. TRAILBLAZER. LEAVING IT ALL BEHIND AND TAKING THE PERFECT SHOT. WORDS BY EBONY MARIE CHAPPEL PHOTOGRAPH BY ESTHER BOSTON PHOTOGRAPHER AND PATTERN COLLABORATOR FAITH Blackwell has been capturing the beauty around us through her lens for more than a decade. Whether she’s shooting marketing images for business owners or flawless fashion models, Blackwell brings a certain level of soul, heart and joy to her work. We caught up with the multitalented maven to learn more about taking the leap into entrepreneurship and her artistic inspirations.

EBONY MARIE CHAPPEL: What was it like the first time you picked up a camera? What did you take a photo of and how did it make you feel? FAITH BLACKWELL: The first time I picked up a camera, where I knew I enjoyed capturing images, was during a family reunion. All the kids were playing football or some type of activity and I was just in wait to capture various moments, laughter and fun. It made me want to learn about photography and how to be better at it. EMC: You’ve been running your business full-time for nearly a decade. What inspired you to take the leap to entrepreneurship? FB: Once I discovered that photography was my passion, I knew I had to pursue it full-time. I was in marketing for 10 years. When I hit year seven, I discovered my love for photography. I started taking classes and it began as a hobby. My job was going through changes and I knew that it was my time to leave there. So, I made a plan to get things in order and started to build clientele. I set a date where I’d turn in my two weeks’ notice and never looked back. It felt freeing. EMC: In the time that you’ve been working as a photographer, social media and technology has expanded what the average consumer knows about photography. Does this help or harm your business? FB: I feel like there’s room for all of it. I mean, have you seen what some of those camera phones can do?!

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Seriously, I have clients who have used me for some professional photos and then I’ll advise them on how to fill out some of their photography needs by using their own cameras or phones. At first I was taken aback, but then I realized that what I provide is not only photography-based, but experience-based. I provide them with a fun, laid back atmosphere to capture them at their best. EMC: Famous photographers like Gordon Parks changed the world with their images of life in America, particularly those of Black people. You can look at his photos and get a feel for what inspired him. If you were to discuss your own work and the lens through which you capture things, what would you say inspires you? FB: Design. Art. Music. Life in general inspires me. It’s never been just one thing. I’m a child of the 80s. That inspires me. I feel like we grew up in the best generation as far as music goes. I had parents into Motown while we grew up in the beginning of Hip Hop and Prince. Need I say more? I feel like there’s an overall light to my images. People have stepped into my studio/gallery space and have told me that they immediately feel happiness and joy. In my photography and art there are moments that take you back to your childhood or a simpler time in your life. ✂

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS WHONSETLER STYLING BY SAMANTHA RIPPERGER STYLE ASSISTANT MACKIE SCHROETER HAIR BY DEE LANEE MAKEUP BY KATHY MOBERLY MODEL MIKAYAL R. (HELEN WELLS AGENCY) DESIGN BY JULIE MAKEPEACE

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SUNGLASSES URBAN OUTFITTERS

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NECKLACES VINTAGE

JACKET NEW YORK & COMPANY

SHIRT J CREW (THE TOGGERY)

SUNGLASSES URBAN OUTFITTERS

SCARF VINTAGE

SUNGLASSES MUI MUI

JEWELRY VINTAGE

SHIRT THE TOGGERY

PANTS URBAN OUTFITTERS

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SUNGLASSES DEREK LAM (THE TOGGERY)

EARRINGS VINTAGE

SHIRT LIZ CLAIBORNE

JACKET C. WONDER (THE TOGGERY)

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INDUSTRY INSIDER

JAKE HUBER

WORDS BY LAUREN OOSTERLINCK

PHOTOGRAPH BY LOREAL ELDER

A platinum blonde chanteuse singing in a hazy bar, behind the pool table. A rapper singing on a glossy game show set. A concert set on a city bus. A pink monochrome vintage set with a tatted-up rock and roll band. These aren’t scenes from music videos released by the likes of Katy Perry or Kanye. In fact, they’re descriptions of local musicians filmed by ambitious, humble Indianapolis-based director, Jake Huber. Indy is in the midst of a filmmaking renaissance, and he is one of the driving forces behind it. A passionate filmmaker, born and bred in our fair state, Huber has a deeper mission to make Indianapolis and its creative talent known. It’s likely you’ve heard of the HGTV show, Good Bones, which has been filmed around the city for the past five years. Huber has been on the film crew of the show since its first season. He caught his big break on the show in 2015, only two months after graduating from Indiana University with a double major in photography and telecommunication, with a focus on film. “For the past five years I’ve been trying to make Indy known,” says Huber. He refers to the popular TV show as his nine-to-five. “I enjoy being on a project that beautifies the city, and it doesn’t hurt that I work with my friends and partner,” he says. Like many artists, Huber dreamt of leaving Indianapolis for a bigger city after college, but the opportunities in Indy and love for its creative community have kept him here for the time being. “We have high-quality cinematic videos here in Indy. I’m waiting for somebody out of town to realize what talent Indy has to offer,” he says. In 2019, he co-created and filmed “Music In Transit.” The series documented a variety of local musicians that performed sets aboard the Red Line bus system last September, celebrating its first week in operation. “It’s a lot of good things jammed into one package,” he says. “We got to showcase Indianapolis while in Indianapolis.” His work on the series earned two regional Emmy nominations. This summer, Huber and his production company Jake Huber Productions won the 2019 Emmy award for audio and was runner up for technical achievement. “I was blown away when we won.” Just last month, Huber filmed a new music video with local rapper Poindexter. “I did the biggest music video of my career with Poindexter,” says Huber. The game show-themed music video, aptly named “Jeopardy,” was filmed in a vibrant, glittering, custom-built set that appears to be straight out of the 1970s. It took over two weeks to build the video set, but with 126

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a 16-person crew, the filming was achieved during one very long 12-hour day. “I hope it’s something that gains national attention for him. He’s one of the artists here that deserves it,” says Huber. In total, he has shot over 40 music videos. This being the third he’s collaborated on with Poindexter, including “Sushi [featuring Project Pat]” and “Back On.” Huber typically covers the costs for his music videos (each ranging from $5-7K, on average). Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, there was insufficient funding for the Poindexter video, which called for a $20K budget. Huber overcame that obstacle by fundraising half of the money himself to shoot it. The video shoot was originally scheduled for April, but had to be delayed until August when with safety protocols in place he and his team got straight back to work. “We worked in one of the first studios to open back up,” said Huber. “Good Bones was put off for two months. Everything was down until there was a protocol.” While the pandemic shutdowns caused unexpected hurdles across all industries, it allowed Huber the time to get motivated for future endeavors. “During the pandemic, being bored inspired me and my friends to come up with cool stuff to do,” he says. Currently, he’s working on ideas for season two of “Music in Transit,” which he hopes to have shot by the end of the year. Whether he’s shooting music videos or reality TV, Huber is eager to bolster his career by honing his craft, creating spec ads to fund more high-quality music videos. His current fundraising campaign has raised over $15K, with 50 supporters. You can find it on IndieGoGo at https:// www.indiegogo.com/projects/help-Huber-take-the-next-step#/ He enjoys being hands on with every aspect of his projects, but prefers directing most. “I have the most fun directing, to sit back and run production and make sure that things are the way you envisioned them,” Huber says. Closely tied to his own success, Huber’s broader goals are to bring the Indianapolis film and music communities together and to create work that brings his creative collaborators acclaim. “Either way, I feel it’s a big part of our jobs to showcase the talent here. I want to keep making great stuff for good people and hope those people get noticed. For me, it’s the artists that are the priority. It’s a mutual respect thing between me and the artists.” ✂

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BUSINESS REAL ESTATE PRIVATE SECURITIES

Wormser Legal is a boutique law firm, working with clients on a variety of business and real estate matters, including entrepreneurial and venture capital services, buying, selling and leasing real estate, and drafting and negotiating contracts.

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OP-ED

WELCOME (ALMOST) RHYMES WITH AMERICAN IN THIS MOMENT, MANY OF THE PUBLIC SYSTEMS AMERICANS USED TO rely on are in need of some kind of reformation—whether it’s our threadbare bridges or paperworked racisms or dour-faced referendums about healthcare. At the same time, there isn’t enough imagination in the cramped local annexes or those distant, wirerimmed offices in DC to produce actual reform. So it’s up to the poets and artists to reframe things with a more welcoming, generous systems than the one we’re stuck with right now. FOR YEARS, POETS HAVE BEEN WARNING AMERICANS ABOUT OUR RICKETY SOCIAL SYSTEMS BECAUSE poets are natural reformers. They recognize absences and instabilities like other people recognize their favorite song on the radio. They conjure new avenues of protest from forgotten addendums and perfumes with a stutter of a pen. They transform familiar words into marching shoes and power fists through brain electricity alone. In the hands of a poet, American and welcome nearly rhyme, but it’s just consonance. The sounds are as unequal as the meanings. Nearly all poets live check-tocheck, so they understand the absence of conformity and equity. PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY SAID, “POETS ARE THE UNACKNOWLEDGED LEGISLATORS OF THE WORLD.” AND SO from the poet’s mouth, conform becomes uniform. Uniform becomes reinform. Reinform becomes transform and it applies to both humans and our cardboard institutions. Poets use language to transcend insecurity, speaking loudly enough to be heard over the eviction notices and buckets of racism poured all over the Black art on streets and bridges. At the same time, poets are pragmatic; they forgive our daily shortcomings but not the willful, three-term bitterness of legislators and politicians in their ill-fitting suits. UNLIKE OUR INDIFFERENT, ELECTED LEGISLATORS, POETS HAVE NO CHOICE BUT TO THINK ABOUT THE people first. Poetry is written by the poet but gets its actual power from the reader. To ignore the reader is to unplug the vital juice which puts a stop to any illumination a poem might offer. So the relationship between the poet and reader is both vital and symbiotic and any new social constructions need to reflect that. THE WORD SYMBIOSIS COMES FROM THE GREEK WORD SUMBÍŌSIS WHICH MEANS “LIVING TOGETHER.” So it’s not just poets and readers; cities and neighborhoods are symbiotic, too, and so considering the wellbeing of neighbors and passers-by becomes a poetic act. Especially in this time when the weakest among us are even weaker and those without somehow have even less. Like generosity, poetry makes its greatest innovations while transforming the world around us into song and wonder. Like poetry, generosity is a kind of musicality, revelation, and finally, the foundational engine for reform. POETRY MIGHT BE ONE OF THE BEST OPPORTUNITIES WE HAVE TO REIMAGINE CITIZENSHIP THROUGH ART as we distance, almost afraid to look each other in the eye. We need the kind of poetry that loudly proclaims that the isolation and loss from COVID was the result of America’s huckster response to the pandemic. We need a kind of poetry that allows us to convey it didn’t need to be this way despite what the mask-below-the-nose patriots try to say. Poetry can’t protect us from gullibility or from conmen with their comb overs flapping in the golf course breeze, but it can empower us to reimagine language. And to reimagine language is to truly reform the self, then the systems that were originally meant to hold us as close as a friend in need.

ADRIAN MATEJKA POET

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