Perfect Diver Magazine 10 issue

Page 1


No. 10

4(10)/2020

Price 7,90 € Tax included july/august

two poles

The land of the ice giants knowledge

Sardinia "Pilot". My piece of paradise on earth

Cyprus and everything is clear ... like the sun there

1. COMMUNICATION

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We start with the cold, beautiful and wild poles of our planet. You can still find unusual animals and amazing phenomena there.

On the following pages we suggest trips mainly to different places in Europe. We have Pilot, more texts, about Sardinia, our editorial colleague Bartek Pszczółkowski. Cyprus is well known and presented by Robert Pietras, who makes his debut in Perfect Diver.

Every day, information about new countries opening up to travelers arrives. Maybe we dive more in places close to home? Nature is exciting. Underwater life, wrecks and the mere fact of being suspended in the water make us different people.

The magazine exceptionally has 80 pages. He could have had more, but that's not the point. In the next 2 months you will be able to virtually dive with us again, and then puncture it with your own specific plans.

In Perfect Diver Magazine we show you various aspects of diving. We indicate places worth recommending. We add maps and information that will allow you to go on an independent diving trip or show who will be with us on the way.

Have you ever dived with a hearing or deaf person? We have a mega curiosity about deaf divers as perceived by Karolina Jakóbczak.

The last article is, as always, a very practical guide by Wojtek A. Filip.

I cordially invite you. The preparation of such a large amount of material is an effort of many people. I encourage you to donate any voluntary amount that you can support the editorial office.

2 poles. The land of the ice giants

Norway. Dive Bergen

Bornholm as seen from the shore

Sardinia "Pilot". My piece of paradise on earth

Review – "The Terrible Hours"

A travelling diver, part 1 "Shush!". On the benefits of diving with a deaf diver travel S rookie'S eye knowledge

Cyprus and everything is clear ... like the sun there

Gozo in a nutshell

Phuket Island

How to swim in ABC equipment

Publisher perfect diver Wojciech Zgoła ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com

ISSN 2545-3319

Wojciech Zgoła Irena Kosowska Mateusz Popek

Agnieszka Kalska Jakub Degee Bartosz Pszczółkowski Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak

Reddo Translations Sp. z o.o. Adwokat Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

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Montserrat (Julieta Ulanovsky) Open Sans (Ascender Fonts) Spectral (Production Type)

Wieland Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Poznań, www.wieland.com.pl

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The Editorial Office does not return unsolicited materials, is not responsible for the content of advertisements and reserves the right to shorten, edit, title the submitted texts and select illustrative materials. Reprinting of articles or parts thereof, copying only with the consent of the Editorial Board. Editors are not responsible for the form and content of advertisements.

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He often repeats that he travels by diving and that is his motto. In 1985 he obtained a yacht sailor's license, and only in 2006 began to dive. In the following years he improved his skills by obtaining the Dive Master degree. He completed nearly 650 dives in various climatic conditions. Since 2007, he has been taking photographs underwater, and since 2008 he has also been filming. As an independent journalist, he published dozens of articles, mainly in journals dedicated to diving, but not only. Co-author of photo exhibitions in Poland and abroad. He is passionate about and propagator of diving.

Since 2008 he has been running his own website www.dive-adventure.eu. On the basis of extensive experience, in August 2018 he created the new Perfect Diver Magazine

”My passion, work and life are under water.” He has been diving since 2009. Since 2008, he's walking in caves. Underwater archeologist by education. He participated in numerous projects in Poland and abroad. He has been engaged in professional diving since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the qualifications of a 2nd class diver. Has experience in underwater work both at sea and inland. Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, especially in the mountains, and since 2014 he is a diving instructor CMAS M1. In June 2020, he obtained a doctoral degree in underwater archeology.

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Polska, diving and first aid instructor, technical diver and cave diver. In love with all flooded, dark, cold, tight places and invariably from the beginning of the diving route – in the Baltic. Implementing the DAN mission, he conducts a series of lectures ”Dive safely” and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field research of divers for scientific purposes.

Polish photographer, winner of awards and distinctions in world underwater photography competitions, has already dived all over the world: with sharks and whales in South Africa, with orcs behind the Arctic Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds of hammerhead sharks and humpback whales in the Tonga Islands. He participates in specialist photographic workshops. He has been diving for 27 years, he started at the age of 12 – as soon as it was formally possible. He was the first in the world to use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for underwater macro photography. Recently, in the remote Chincorro archipelago on the border between Mexico and Belize, he did it again, taking a successful attempt to photograph the eye of a crocodile with a macro lens with an additional magnifying lens, which is the world's largest photo of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of pixel count, print size, quality).

agniesZka kalska

”I can't imagine living without water, where in a free body I experience freedom of the spirit.”

• founder of the first freediving and swimming school in Poland – FREEBODY,

• Apnea Academia International and PADI Master Freediver freediving instructor,

• world record holder in freediving (DYN 253 m),

• record holder and Polish champion, member of the national team in freediving 2013–2019,

• winner of the World Championships in freediving 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018,

• multimedalist of the Polish Championships and a member of the national team in swimming in the years 1998–2003,

• passionate about freediving and swimming.

bartosZ psZcZółkoWski

That's my name and I come from Poznań. I have been associated with water practically from birth and with diving since I learned to walk. My grandfather instilled my passion for the underwater world, a CMAS*** instructor taking me to the lakes at any free time. I obtained my first qualifications in 1996. A year later I went to Croatia and literally went crazy at the sight of blue water, octopus and colorful fish;) I bought my first underwater camera – Olympus 5060 and started the adventure with underwater photography. I acquired my diving experience in the Canary Islands, Sardinia, Norway, Maldives and in Polish lakes. I am currently a Padi and ESA instructor, I train diving enthusiasts in Europe and pass my passion on to others.

I invite all lovers of the underwater world and photography to Beediver (FB) – see you soon.

Wojciech Zgoła
irena kosoWska
jakub degee
MateusZ popek

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He has been diving for over 30 years, including over 20 years as a technical diver. He is a professional with great theoretical and practical knowledge. He is an instructor of many federations: GUE Instructor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS PADI, EFR, TMX Gas Blender. He participated in many diving projects and conferences as a leader, explorer, originator or lecturer. These included the Britannic Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave Scientific Project on Croatia caves, GROM Expedition in Narvik, Tuna Mine Deep Dive, Glavas Cave in Croatia, NOA-MARINE. Professionally, he is a technical director at TecLine in Scubatech, and a director of training at TecLine Academy.

A graduate of Geography faculty at the University of Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with a permanent smile on her lips! It was probably Destiny that led her to Activtour… and she's been here on permanent basis. She passionately fulfils the dreams of many, organizing diving trips around the world, and she has already been diving for more than half of her life. Each year she explores a different ‘piece of the ocean’, pinning another pin to her diving world map. In winter she changes fins into her beloved skis and gets away into the Alps. A recipe for life? ”The only a dead trunk flows with the current – the explorer's canoe flows up the river!”

www.activtour.pl, anna@activtour.pl

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature. A graduate of journalism and a lover of good literature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian. Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and their protection are especially close to her heart. She writes about the subject in numerous articles and on her blog www.divingandtravel. pl. She began her adventure with diving fifteen years ago by total coincidence. Today she is a Divemaster, she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 continents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is a co-founder.

A traveler, photographer and the underwater world filmmaker, an Asian cuisine enthusiast and a PADI diving instructor. He visited over 70 countries and dived on 5 continents (the other two are planned for next year's expeditions). For several years he has also been an instructor and trainer of the unmanned aircraft flights. A co-author of a travel agency for divers www.dive-away.pl. He documents his expeditions with photos and descriptions of his journeys on his blog www.divingandtravel.pl

A graduate of the University of Warsaw. An underwater photographer and filmmaker, has been diving since 1995. A co-operator at the Department of Underwater Archeology at the University of Warsaw. He publishes in diving magazines in Poland and abroad. The owner of the FotoPodwodna company which is the Polish representative of Ikelite, Nauticam, Inon, ScubaLamp companies. www.fotopodwodna.pl, m.trzcinski@fotopodwodna.pl

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Academy of Physical Education (coaching specialization – handball) and the University of A.Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biology). He connected his professional life with this first university trying to influence the direction of development of future professionals on the one hand, and on the other planning and implementing research, pushing laboriously in the right direction of the stroller called science. In his free time he spends his time actively – his main passions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational diving and many other activities, as well as photography, mainly nature.

anna sołoducha
Marcin trZciński
Wojciech jarosZ
Wojciech a. filip

aka "Mermaid". NAUI, EFR (premedical first aid) and DAN oxygen rescue instructor. Actress and singer. Versatile woman.

Diving is her passion and a way to help every person with whom she works above and below water. In her opinion, diving is not only exploring the underwater world. It is also getting to know and integrating with your own "I", building trust in yourself and a way to develop the skills necessary to overcome all life problems. Specialist for "difficult" students and children.

Owner of XDIVERS – Your Diving School. Trimix, cave and gas blender diver. Her biggest underwater love are caves, and diving priority – SAFETY. margita@xdivers.pl

"Wet photos" – He has photographed since he remembers. After several years of experience as a diver, he wanted to keep memories of underwater dives. He bought his first compact camera with an underwater housing. Over time, however, the desire to have the best photo began to dominate, which was not quite possible with the compact he used. That's why he switched to the Olympus PEN E-PL 5 reflex camera, which allows the use of several different lenses. He uses a combination of underwater flashes and lights. He focuses on wildlife photography, not arrangement. He photographs in fresh domestic waters as well as in the seas and oceans of the world. He has already won numerous awards at Czech and foreign photography competitions. More photos can be found on his website, where you can also buy them not only as photos, but also as photos printed on canvas or on another medium. www.mokrefotky.cz www.facebook.com/MichalCernyPhotography www.instagram.com/michalcerny_photography/

Since I was a child, I had dreamed of becoming a marine biologist and I managed to fulfill that dream. I did a degree in oceanography, where I recently started my doctoral studies. My diving adventure began when I was 12 years old. I love observing the underwater life up close and I try to show other divers how fascinating the underwater, Baltic creatures are.

"Once the sea casts its spell, it will keep you forever in its web of wonders." – J. Y. Cousteau I have always had contact with water in various forms: snorkeling, sailing, windsurfing. In 2015, I released bubbles for the first time during the Intro at Fuertevetura, and since 2016 I have been actively diving in Polish and foreign waters. Computer graphic designer by education and profession, my hobby is artistic photography. I promote diving among the Deaf on the Aquakari profile to which I cordially invite you!

Technical Diving Instructor and renowned Underwater Photographer whose style is famous within the Technical Diving community. She is specialised in Sidemount, Technical Sidemount & Cave Diving Training. She is based in Gozo but operates worldwide both for training and exploration purpose. Beyond her adaptive teaching recognition and her dedication to making each student a better diver, she is a passionate underwater photographer complementing each training and diving session with numerous shots which became famous within the diving industry and through social medias. Her work has been published in various magazines, Diving agencies websites, training materials & dive shows.

PADI Diving Instructor since 2007 (MI PADI), TecRec and EFR Instructor, SDI TDI Instructor, BSAC Instructor. Professional DAN Partner. With Cyprus associated since 2011. I dive mainly in the Sidemount system, sometimes also for recreational purposes. I stay in Poland in winter. This is the time when I train in first aid in schools and kindergartens and teach children about the underwater world. Sometimes I also train as a swimming instructor. Besides, I like traveling and look forward to being able to dive under the ice again. Contact me at:

+48 605252010 / +357 97667438

e-mail: Robert@nurkujenacyprze.com

robert toMasZ pietras
agata turoWicZ-cybula
karolina jakóbcZak
audrey cudel

2 PoleS

The land of the ice giants

text anna sołoducha

when in 2015 i presented kasia – the owner of aCtivtour – with a book entitled "antarktyka podwodne zauroczenie" by Bartosz Stróżyński (the antiarctic underwater infatuation), i did not think that it would become an inspiration and a symbol of new challenges, and a look where the eyes cannot reach...

For 13 years, ACTIVTOUR has been organizing dives all over the world, and in 2017 (our) pioneering expedition to Antarctica took place. It seems to me that once you love the water that makes up lakes, seas, oceans, no matter what state of concentration it is in – it will be true love, deep… love forever. Looking into the distance, beyond the limits of your own imagination, you can see a completely different world... an immeasurable world of forms that is almost unbelievable, as if from another galaxy. Sculpturally,

Photo Oceanwide Expedition

architecturally, madly and absurdly beautiful. There, history is hidden in ice, in snow and in places where you need to move your horizon to see the real treasure. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder...

Antarctica, located in the southern hemisphere, is a geographical term that includes the continent itself – the mainland called Antarctica covered with the ice sheet, islands, ice shelves and icebergs in the South. The Arctic, on the other hand, is mostly the Arctic Ocean ice sheet around the North

Pole and parts of the northernmost lands. In addition, it is worth mentioning that Antarctica largely land and the Arctic is mainly drifting ice. These "2 poles" are the gateway to knowing yourself. If places located near 60 degrees north and south latitude inspire you, intrigue you, or even intimidate you, the offer that you will find on the 2bieguny.com website is just for you. The idea of the website was born out of our endless need and love to travel, discover and conquer new, unknown lands. The desire was born in us to bring you closer to your heart – the polar regions.

Expeditions to 2 poles – as the name suggests, they are divided into cruises organised in the Arctic and Antarctica regions. An indispensable element of these voyages is a fleet of 6 ships, each of which is adapted to the extremely harsh (sometimes even extreme) conditions in the polar regions. The M/V Hondius, M/V Ortelius and M/V Plancius are powerful icebreakers, ideally suited for polar expeditions. The wealth of amenities for our passengers is not the only advantage of the ships. A priceless advantage is also the care for the natural environment of the polar regions. The applied technologies of LED lighting, steam heating, biodegradable paints and lubricants as well as an innovative energy management system allow to reduce CO2 emissions and fuel consumption – which directly affects the ecology. An interesting fact is that one of them – M/V Ortelius was built in 1989 in Gdynia, as a unit of oceanographic research of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Since then, it has undergone a thorough renovation and has been adapted to serve over 120 passengers of tourist and expedition cruises to Antarctica, meeting all safety standards. Rebrandt van Rijn and Noorderlicht are excellent sailing ships adapted to Arctic waters. The newest and fastest vessel in our fleet is the M/V Janssonius. An excellent, exclusive expedition vessel that can be successfully called a floating hotel! All ships take on board over 100 passengers, an excellent crew in

Photo Oceanwide Expedition

every respect, and a whole host of biologists, geomorphologists, geographers, oceanographers, photographers who conduct lectures and special lectures, introducing the participants of the cruises to the fauna and flora of the polar regions. They teach you how to take the best photo in such difficult conditions or make a movie. What can captivate you – divers, but also non-divers – in these expeditions is the whole range of activities carried out as part of cruises on the waters of the two poles. Trekking, mountaineering, snowshoe hiking are the best way to explore the polar regions, admire the wildlife and phenomenal landscapes. If you like to explore icy and snowy terrains first, be the first to make your mark on pristine powder snow… you must try ski mountaineering! Expeditions of this type include both skiing and mountain climbing, sometimes even on walls steeper than a 35-degree slope. Ski mountaineering is practiced in small groups on demanding, steep terrain, often in deep snow. Kayakers will have the opportunity to make many interesting trips to penetrate this part of the land that will remain impossible to get on board the large ship M/V Plancius... Using single and double kayaks we will sail in the scenery of ice giants! Nature and nature lovers will take advantage of the possibility of accommodation in professional tents in a camp set up on land, and on selected cruises we will see the snow kingdom from a slightly different perspective... during a helicopter flight. At this point, information about diving cannot be missing. The combination of light reflections breaking through the water and unusual ice formations will delight you completely! The magical colour of the water will reveal to us extraordinary sea life: kelp forests, sea snakes, giant crabs, amazing varieties of snails, many species of Arctic and Antarctica fish, jellyfish, starfish, krill, great isopods and sea urchins. The trip will be a unique opportunity to see with your own eyes a sea leopard, a sea lion, a fur seal, several varieties of cetaceans and to watch the ubiquitous penguins from the water surface. An expedition that includes all the above-mentioned activities is an expedition in the form of a basecamp. It will be up to you which of the proposed options you use.

By sailing with us, you experience a part of the world that is unlike any other. Mountainous glaciers, snow-drenched shores, whales and polar bears, and vast penguin colonies make up this world, and they are all part of a surreal ecosystem that you can see in front of you on your future ocean excursion. By deciding to sail to the South Pole, we will start our journey in Ushuaia, the southernmost city on the globe. Tourists come back from there with stamps in

Photo Activtour
Photo Activtour

the passport with the words: "Fin del mundo", the end of the world. Our cruises run through the Falklands, South Orkney Islands, South Shetland Islands, South Georgia, the phenomenal Ross Sea with the most active stratovolcano in Antarctica – Erebus, or the Weddel Sea with the Antarctica Peninsula.

Antarctica is a region of eternal ice, days lasting six months, incorrect readings of compasses, huge populations of endemic species, including emperor penguins that meet all meridians. The routes travelled by our vessels are dazzling with their beauty – the ice shimmers with a rainbow of reflected light, and against the blue sky we will see albatrosses, petrels, fulmars, cormorants, shearwaters... The waters of the southern continent, thanks to the presence of krill and many nutrients, are a place of existence for an extremely rich fauna: many varieties of cetaceans (North Atlantic right whale, sperm whales, sei whales, fin whales, killer whales, blue whales, dolphins, common minke whales), seals, sea lions, sea leopards, fur seals – all this we will have a chance to see with our own eyes diving among

Photo Activtour
Photo Franco Banfi
Photo Nicolo de Cata
Photo Oceanwide Expeditions
Photo Ivo Madder
Photo Ivo Madder
Photo Ivo Madder
Photo Ivo Madder
Photo Jamie Scherbeijn
Photo Ivo Madder

the glaciers. Antarctica, frozen in time and ice, will allow us to learn about the history of the famous Irish explorer and discoverer – Shackleton, and make us even more "sensitised" to the problems of ecology, global warming, and thus – melting glaciers. It will teach you to see further.

Going in the opposite direction – to the North Pole, one of the most spectacular experiences will be observing the phenomenon of the aurora! Our cruises cover the Svalbard Archipelago with Spitsbergen, Northern Norway, Greenland, Iceland… We will see ancient mining settlements, research stations, picturesque fjords, glaciers and wild tundra. The polar bear is a true Arctic icon when it comes to the land zone, and whales and seals reign underwater. Arctic regions are different environments, different from all the others on Earth. We find here huge spaces, the presence of seas, a half-frozen ocean. A dark and desert land in winter, it comes to life suddenly when the days become long. The Arctic is a region that extends north from the Arctic Circle to the North Pole. This is one of the last wild bastions on our planet. Only the most persistent and best adapted species survive here. Arctic animals were about 3 million years old to adapt to the harsh conditions prevailing here. During 10 months a year it is covered with ice and permafrost, during four months it is in darkness.

What exactly is under the tip of the iceberg? A pioneering spirit that connects all travelers and thus brings them to the polar regions (regardless of age and origin). Our expeditions are full of passion, commitment, inspiration and they aim to bring you closer to the heart of the Arctic and Antarctica... Isn't it by any chance, polar infatuation?

Photo Johan Vesters

Norway

l ike most e uropean divers, until recently i  directed my diving trips mainly to warm coral seas. this time we decided to try a slightly different cold water diving and chose n orway as our destination, specifically places around the former capital of n orway – Bergen.

Norway is located in the west of the Scandinavian Peninsula and is the eighth largest European country, about four times larger than the Czech Republic, but due to its low population density, it only has about half the population. In the

past, the landscape was modeled by several glaciers. Thanks to them, the typical Norwegian fjords were created, which in fact are glacial valleys flooded by the sea. They are countless, and some of them extend many kilometers inland, which is why Norway is often referred to as the land of the fjords. We chose the area around Bergen for diving, which was the capital of Norway until 1299, and today, with 250,000 inhabitants, is the second largest city in the country. There is still a long way to the Arctic Circle, but even here in summer it is practically bright at night. The sun sets below the horizon only for a moment, causing more dusk than night. In summer we can forget about the classic night dives.

TransporT

Bergen is easy to reach by plane, but if you want to bring your own snorkeling gear, it's definitely better to go by car. There are several options to choose from, using the ferry

text and photos Michal ČernÝ
dive bergen

or bridges between Denmark and Sweden which are paid. We decided to use the ferries. On the way we drove through Germany and Denmark, making about 1,200 kilometers to reach the Hirtshals port, where we boarded the ferry. After about four hours of sailing, we reached Larvik, Norway. Ferry tickets need to be purchased well in advance, I also recommend purchasing a seat at the restaurant serving buffet meals and the selection including fish and seafood is very wide so the journey will be gone very quickly.

It is about 450 kilometers from Larvik to Bergen, but thanks to the narrow and winding roads, the journey takes about 8 hours. It is a wonderful journey, it leads through the amazing Norwegian landscape, beautiful mountains with forever snow-capped peaks, turquoise-blue mountain lakes and tall waterfalls. On the way back, we chose the direct ferry route from Bergen to Hirtshals in Denmark, which takes a total of 18 hours (you can buy a cabin and sleep well).

Norway is not a member of the European Union and there are relatively strict restrictions on the importation of alcohol, tobacco and food. They are checked frequently, so it is definitely not worth going over these limits as the fines are not small. Of course, upon arrival in Norway, you can

report that the limit has been exceeded and pay the duty.

Tolls require motorways and selected roads (mostly bridges and tunnels). Toll collection is automatic electronically based on your passage through the toll gate, it is not payable on site, for which you will receive an invoice that you must pay by credit card or bank transfer. For this reason, before entering Norway, it is a good idea to register the vehicle you are traveling with in the Internet toll system.

iMMerse yourself in BerGen

Our goal and the second home for a week was the Dive Bergen Dive Center, located in the south of the island of Sotra, about 40 kilometers from Bergen. The center is part of the hotel resort of Panorama, which offers divers very pleasant accommodation in apartment houses overlooking the fjord. In addition, accommodated divers have free diving at the house reef. Cylinder refilling is already included in the accommodation price, including Nitrox up to EAN 32.

As the walls drop to a depth of about 40 meters, Nitrox is absolutely perfect for these dives. We were also very pleasantly surprised by the enthusiasm of the staff who described us very well where to dive where there is no point. They

gave us tips not only about the home corral but also about other interesting places in the area that can be reached by car. We were able to dive completely freely as we wanted, the compressor was constantly available and we could refill our tanks whenever we needed. Full freedom and freedom. The dive center also provides diving on wrecks, more distant walls or in a kelp forest. There is a fast zodiac, used mainly for shorter trips for one dive, or a large luxury yacht, which we sail on for one-day diving trips. Of course, the boat has all the amenities, as well as fresh coffee or a place to rest after diving.

divinG

Of course, this is a completely different dive than in the coral seas or the Mediterranean. The water is colder, less colorful, and visibility seems less due to the amount of plankton. Nevertheless, the diving is absolutely fascinating and underwater you will meet animals that you will not meet anywhere else.

For diving in Norway, it is certainly a good idea to equip yourself with a dry suit, because even in summer the water temperature at greater depths is only 7 or 8ºC. On the surface it is a maximum of about 15ºC.

Kelp is abundant in shallower waters and is found almost everywhere. Seaweed is said to cover an area of up to 5,800 square kilometers off the coast of Norway. Kelp is obviously a natural home and a refuge for many animals, mainly smaller ones. You can find various species of sea urchins, starfish, crustaceans, small fish and of course my favorite nudibranchs.

For me personally, one of the reasons I went to Norway was the monkfish. Yes, this ugly fish is so ugly that's beautiful, it is very abundant in Norway, which I can fully confirm now. Immediately during the first dive, we met two monkfish, and during the following dives the number only increased, some of them reaching over a meter in length. This fish is absolutely perfect for underwater photographers, it just lies in one place and hardly moves. So sometimes it wags an appendix on its head that is supposed to resemble a worm and thus attract other fish, which then end up in the giant's huge mouth. I even spent twenty minutes taking pictures of some specimen which didn’t move at that time. Finding a monkfish in water, however, is not easy as it has very good camouflage and sometimes it literally melts into the bottom. Some I noticed only while browsing the photos, when, for example, I captured some of the cargo from the wreck, I did not even notice that there was a monkfish next to it.

The waters here are rich in fish and the variety of species is relatively large. At the bottom, in addition to the already mentioned monkfish, there are also large amounts of flounder, catfish or cephalopods. In open waters, you can mainly see cod, there are the following types of cod: common, dark, beardless, single-spotted or pollock. You can often find a fish here that looks like it has lost its way and that it shouldn't be here at all. It has a deep blue-yellow color and is a rainbow wrasse.

wrecks

There are many wrecks in Norwegian waters, but not all are available for recreational divers because of their depth. Wrecks can be divided into two groups according to the dumping method. Namely, the wrecks of World War II and the wrecks of ships that sank due to bad weather, crashing against the rocks. There are wrecks of both of these groups in and around Bergen, some directly accessible from the shore, and others by boat.

We visited a few of them: Spring – the wreck of this 65-meter cargo ship can also be reached from the shore. The ship sank on the night of

January 16, 1914 after a collision with another ship, when it began to take on water quickly. The captain was still trying to save the ship by steering it towards the shore, but the steep bottom allowed the ship to sink completely. The crew survived completely. Today the wreck lies just a few meters from the shore on a sloping bottom at a depth of 8 to 50 m. The stern is broken off, but the rest of the wreck is relatively well preserved. However, it is not recommended to enter the wreck due to the possible collapse of the structure.

"Siggen" – just a few minutes by boat from the diving center there is a picturesque island with a lighthouse, and at a depth of 30 to 40 meters, the wreckage of an old steamer or what is left of it parks. The steamer sank in bad weather in January 1892. On its first voyage, it struck a small island. Today, we can still see the remains of the fuselage, propeller, anchor, and especially the steam engine, which surprises with its dimensions. The wreck has become a home for whales and other sea animals. We met here, for example, Kamchatka crabs.

The "Fusa" – a Norwegian steamer 34 meters long was sunk during WWII on January 8, 1945. After an attack by about fifteen British planes, even though it was clear-

ly marked with Norwegian national emblems. The planes carried out three attacks on the ship in total, killing eight people and injuring many others. The ship eventually sank at a depth of 25 to 35 meters, where today it stands on a sandy bottom in an upright position. In the wreckage you can still find leftover equipment such as plates and other kitchen utensils.

contact with the base:

august bolten – The wreck of this 110-meter cargo ship is about 140 m deep and so far only a few divers have dived on it. However, at a depth of up to 40 m, you can see part of the ship's cargo that fell out of it when it sank. We can find several car and truck chassis, motorcycles, car trailers, and on some even cannons. The ship sank in the morning of November 20, 1944 after a two-day attack by Allied planes.

helene jensen – is one of the newer wrecks in the area, a cargo ship built in the Netherlands in 1931 sank in bad weather after hitting a small island on March 11, 1980. The relatively short time underwater meant that the wreck is well preserved, including some wooden superstructures. The wreck is also lying vertically on the slope, its bow is 12 m deep and the stern 35 m. We managed to find several species of snails on this wreck.

other attractions and opportunities

Of course, you don't need to dive here, there is a wide range of other water and land sports available. You can rent a sea kayak, jet ski or boat and go fishing in the fjords. Mainly they take cod here, so we also went on a fishing trip to eat fresh fish for dinner. In less than two hours, we managed to catch fifteen cod, which we then cooked on the grill.

In between boat dives we visited one of the salmon farms, of which there are countless in the local fjords. Here we not only tasted the fresh salmon but also got to know how to breed fish on the farm which was very interesting.

There is also a fortress from the World War II Fjell festivities not far from the resort, which was the largest German fortress in Norway. You can see exhibitions of military equipment and weapons both outside and inside.

Of course, Bergen itself is worth a visit as it has typical architecture with wooden houses in the harbor. There is also a fish market where you can not only buy seafood, but most of the ones on offer will be prepared for you right away, so you can try some really fresh specialties straight from the sea. The nearby hill, accessible by cable car, offers a beautiful view of the entire city with its harbor and fjords.

We were very excited about diving and being in Norway. We will definitely come back here in the coming years as we haven't seen everything yet, for example we ran out of a wolf – it didn't show itself to us so we have reason to come back to this beautiful country.

Immerse yourself in Bergen, Panorama Hotell & Resort AS, Austefjordveien 165, 5379 Steinsland tel.: (+47) 56 31 90 00, e-mail: booking@panoramahotell.no, www.divebergen.no

Bornholm as seen from the shore

text and photos Marcin trzciński

i  could hear a soft bang and almost instantly i  felt a rapid jerk of the steering wheel, strong enough to almost pull the wheel out of my hands. Braking hard, i  carefully pulled over to the side of the highway heading n orth to Sassnitz, while the crew, woken up abruptly, were trying to figure out what was going on.

Atire. Rear right. It lay there, spread over at least a hundred meters, marking the forced braking distance in black. Actually, there was nothing strange about it. After all, our Vito was crammed with five people, including three oversized ones. On top of that our twins, stage cylinders and all that diving gear you just can't get into the water without. And of course Peli cases with photo – and video-cameras, plus grub for five days. Yet I guess it was the beverages that landed the decisive blow. I had told them that bringing this stuff to the native land of Carlsberg is somewhat perverse, but it was all about saving money. By the way, it’s strange that other tires did not yield under the burden not to mention the suspension and several other heavily overloaded parts.

Thank heaven it was only a little after four in the morning, so the highway was completely empty. Otherwise, the Germans would have had a lot of fun seeing us unpack all our stuff, making a real Arab stall on the roadside just to jack the car up and change the wheel. In less than forty minutes, the job was done. This includes scraping larger pieces of rubber from the road.

***

Even just from the upper deck of the ferry, the town of Rønne looked fabulous. Illuminated by the afternoon sun, the low houses formed a candy town with a beautiful marina and the church of St. Nicholas towering over the area. Our spirits were high until we reached the Dykkergaarden base. No diving today for us. The engine of the RIB that was sup-

posed to take us to the wrecks died and Peer was waiting for the parts he had ordered the day before. For the time being, we could only dive from the shore. Oh joy…

At least there was no trouble with the Mollers Dueodde Camping, located at the North-East edge of the island. And the guest house we got was… fantastic. By fantastic I mean I could imagine moving in as a permanent resident, enjoying the comfort of the pine forest and the nearby sandy beach. ***

A sunny morning greeted us with the chirping of birds and the noise of pots thrown around by Darek. He was the first to take the kitchen duty to prepare scrambled eggs. A piece of cake, only slightly complicated by the absence of a frying pan. Yet finally, feeling full and with a kind approach to the world, we were able to set off for the Vang port. It sounded severe, as it was in fact located on the other side of the island, but Google said it was only 51 km. Small potatoes. Peer was already waiting for us at the pier we were supposed to dive from, supposedly the best flounder spot in the whole island. Well, we had to try it out.

Finally, I was under water. The soft hum of my regulator, the last check and I could start rummaging over the sandy bottom, covered with rocks and clumps of weeds. Visibility wasn't bad and we could hope for some nice shots at five meters. But as the minutes passed, I only grew more and more certain that I was not the sharpest tool in the shed. You see, when under water I become deficient in perception

s hocked by this unexpected turn of the events, the fish goggled helplessly for a moment, then... moving frantically, it dated into the depth, leaving behind particles of sand floating in the water. at that point, i  knew as well what to look for. c amouflaged eyes, sticking slightly above the bottom. e rrr… Have you ever been looking for eyes hidden in the sand?

in the water. At that point, I knew as well what to look for. Camouflaged eyes, sticking slightly above the bottom. Errr… Have you ever been looking for eyes hidden in the sand? Out of the corner of my eye, I saw movement. Another fish, startled by someone, glided right above the bottom, then fell gently on it and, with rapid movements, started digging itself in. Gotcha! I swam some two meters closer and gently approached the animal, which was eyeing me suspiciously. The little guy overdid it a bit with the dust cover, so I started cleaning it off gently. Surprisingly, it did not escape, patiently enduring the change of the decorations.

and can’t even spot things people are showing me. Well, unless someone gently slides their hand in the sand and lifts an astonished flatfish a meter above the bottom, just like Peer did. Shocked by this unexpected turn of the events, the fish goggled helplessly for a moment, then something apparently clicked in its head and, moving frantically, it dated into the depth, leaving behind particles of sand floating

After an hour and a half, when my bladder forced me to return on the shore, I felt pretty satisfied, even though we didn't see any wrecks. On the contrary – I hadn’t had that much fun chilling at a few meters for quite a long time.

The morning meeting at the parking lot at Dykkergaarden in Rønne was about to end. Overwhelmed with the number of people wanting to dive, Peer was browsing his mind for locations that would accommodate 14 people. It seemed

that on such a small island, this could be a problem. Finally, he made the decision – we’re going to Hullehavn. To the east coast, slightly south from Svaneke.

A dense carpet of vegetation, waving to the rhythm of the movements of water, covered the entire rocky bottom. It was like our football team at the World Cup. Watching it made you feel sick. We needed to escape just a bit deeper, but for some people, gearing up was going at a snail’s pace. While half of the group was already waiting in the water, the other half didn’t even have their suits on. To heck with them! I sank towards the bottom, trying to go deep enough for the damn waving to finally stop. I managed to do it as soon as I passed the 6-meter limit. Now I could wait. So I waited. And waited. I reckon the Earth must have made at least two turns around its axis before the vast rabble of divers swam along the slope and moved further, looking for something worth photographing. Alright, let them go. I fell much behind, relishing the dive itself. I dangled almost motionless, moving my fins from time to time, when a big eelpout appeared slightly below to the left. Gently bending its long, slender

body, it gracefully glided between the greens that sheltered it. It was worth the wait. I followed the group, wary for other denizens of the depths.

Peer’s boat was still stuck at the pier. No parts. Disgusted with this fact, the rest of the crew left me behind as prey for the Vikings, setting off on a tour around the island. Well, I got into a black Nissan Skyline and with a roar of the engine, combined with a screech of burned rubber, started off towards Listed. This car was Sven's dream come true, straight out of his beloved The Fast and the Furious. Black, with Japanese spects and the steering wheel on the right side. My new friend proclaimed himself a Danish renegade and, with blatant disregard for the traffic code, raced ahead through meadow-covered plains. Because you know: the Danish always stick to the 80 km/h speed limit, while we, with contempt for death and madness in our eyes, rushed almost ninety. And once, forgetting himself for a moment, going downhill, Sven even reached 92! Geez, he was a renegade just like Oprah Winfrey was a Miss America. But on the

other hand, he was quite an interesting guy. A soldier, after serving two rounds in Afghanistan and in constant search of new thrills, asked to be transferred… to the underwater bomb squad academy. Located exactly here, on Bornholm. Reportedly, there's still plenty of First and Second World War remnants lying around in the Baltic.

Luckily, our dive didn’t spell any sensations of that kind. Again, a bottom covered with a dense carpet and lots of freedom, as I decided to take some macro photographs. As soon as I entered the nice, cool water, I was mantled with the light green of the Baltic. The bottom, which initially fell quite sharply, flattened out, forming deeper, parallel canyons. What am I going to find today? Or rather: am I going to find anything today? Gliding right above the layer of plants, I was looking carefully at the stalks, leaves and rocks as they passed by. Just hold on a moment. Like the cartoon Road Runner, I instantly hit the brake as I saw… What was that? I cautiously lifted a big leaf and we exchanged deep glances. But only for a fraction of second, as before I understood what was going on, the shroud sitting behind it elegantly moved behind the next cover. Well, I uncovered it (her!) again and for a moment I could see her shapely legs, yellow joints and her

reproachful eyes. Yet, before I managed to get my camera, she retreated again and disappeared behind the green wall. Little charmer. I continued flicking leaves for a longer while, when suddenly another blue-legged glamourpuss appeared. For a moment I considered shifting my interest to her, when the fugitive, making fun of me until a moment ago, probably sensing my hesitation and my declining interest with her, froze, as though posing for a shoot. She posed patiently, letting me rearrange the lamps and adjust my settings, not showing any impatience or boredom whatsoever. Well, looks like there is competition also underwater.

Five days on Bornholm left me with beautiful memories. But also with a hunger for wreck diving. Ultimately, we did only one dive on the wreck of Ada –a wooden schooner that landed 42 meters below the surface in 1867. Actually, this was a pure reconnaissance descent which only stimulated our appetite. Well, we'll just have to come back there another time.

Oh, one more thing. Our kindest hosts from Visit Denmark asked me several times to highlight how eco-friendly, clean and welcoming an island Bornholm is. And how perfectly prepared for receiving tourists. Especially cyclists. So, in order not to be ungrateful, I must mention it. I did not ride a bike, because I dived, and don’t know a thing about environmental protection, but I can assure you it was clean everywhere. Like in some kind of a laboratory or something.

Sardinia ”Pilot”

My piece of paradise on earTh

text and photos Bartosz pszczółkowski

i magine a place where the water is clean and the sand is white. a  place so charming that it has been called the Caribbean of e urope.

Sardinia is a large island in the Mediterranean Sea, located halfway between Europe and Africa. Inhabited since 350,000 BC, as evidenced by archaeological finds (stone tools dating to the early Paleolithic). The ancient civilization of Nuor, which left traces of its presence in the form of stone buildings with various architectural structures, such as con-

ical towers, houses and tombs of giants (TomboGigante), collectively known as Nuraghe, was strongly developed. In addition to this civilization, the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, and even Arabs and finally the Spaniards left traces of their presence on the island. In 1861, Sardinia became part of the Kingdom of Italy, but until now the inhabitants

Capo Caccia, Porto Conte

of the island refer to themselves as "Sardis", having a deeply entrenched relationship with the island, which they rightly regard as their treasure.

In addition to a fascinating story that will interest even a layman, the surrounding nature literally knocks you down.

The mountains of the Supramonte massif, with the magical Su Goropu gorge and the megalithic village hidden in a huge cave. Limestone cliffs and caves of the Golfo di Orosei near CalaGonone, or the granite formations of Santa Teresa Di Galura and the archipelago of a thousand islands of La Madalena. The island, thanks to its diversity, will interest everyone.

Those who like to spend time outdoors have more than 160 sandy beaches, covered with blue waters of the sea.

For lovers of thrills on the island, amazing trekking routes and via ferrata have been created (specially prepared mountain trails with chains and steps to facilitate the passage).

Stintino
Ferrata di Cabirol, view from the cave on Porto Conte

And for those who combine rocks and water, canyoning is available.

Diving is the perfect activity for me, and Sardinia offers a great variety in this matter.

In the north of the island, near Santa Teresa, among the granite blocks at a depth of 20, 30, 40 meters, we can meet Mediterranean black coral (SavaliaSavaglia), which is a tricked black coral from the Parazoanthidea family

Near the Magdalena archipelago, we can dive in the company of curious and friendly groupers, which are impressive in size

In the northwest, you can dive into the amazing caves of the Punta Giglio and Capo Caccia massif.

Here, near Alghero, we can meet very interesting animals that hide in caves, tunnels and vaults (arch). The most characteristic of this part of the island is the red coral, corallum rubrum, which can be seen already at 5–6 meters deep. The part of Sardinia known as the coral riviera has slightly cooler water than the rest of the island, but thanks to this, the development of corals and other animals such as nudibranchs is lush. Here you can meet the sea horses Hipocampus sp.

On the east coast of the island near Olbia, the water is a few degrees warmer, and the rock formations create

Tavolara, view from the ferrata, 30-meter descent with a rope
Black coral
Gruper posing for a photo around Santa Teresa, 28 meters deep
Isola Piana Caverns, 7 meters deep

the perfect place for a diverse marine fauna. Here the gray limestone rocks of Tavolara look out over the pink granite building Molara. These are islets near Capo Coda Cavallo, where you can watch Flamingos :)

Underwater, we can come across a large Chrisso transport wreck, which crashed on the rocks of Punta La Greca in 1974. A great place for photographers, which is rich in various species of nudibranchs, groupers, moray eels and congers.

Near Isola Rosa we can observe amphorae from 2,000 years ago, and near Isola Del Fico great anchors with an unclear history.

A very interesting dive site located in the open sea near the island of Tavolara is called Papa uno and Panpa due. These are several rock cones growing from 40 to 15 meters deep.

Overgrown with yellow and red gorgonias, in which there are large groupers of 4 different species.

It is a typical Mediterranean reef, a huge ecosystem enclosed in a small space of a rock cone (pinnacle). Here you can meet dolphins, stingrays and even mole moles, i.e. sunfish :). It is an amazing place, but intended for advanced divers, because it is very easy to lose yourself in the colors of gorgonia and the blue of the surrounding water. Around September, lampugi, or koryphena, appear in herds, hunting for small fry.

Tre fratelli is a place on the open sea with a visibility sometimes exceeding 40 meters. Full of various interesting animals, such as Rhizostomapulmo, amazing jellyfish or cicala, spotted crab. The most impressive, however, is the

Chrisso wreck, 3 meters deep, around Punta la Greca
Flamingos from Porto Taverna

underwater landscape, and diving in this place is like a flight in the mountains, which we can take thanks to the surrounding water.

I have been associated with Sardinia for over ten years and each time I try to get to know another one corner. It is an amazing island, full of interesting places both on land and under water. I recommend visiting this island especially now, when it is definitely safer to move a little closer to your country, and at the same time discover the advantages of the Mediterranean Sea. In the next issues, I will try to present the individual dive sites on this amazing island so close to us...

tbc...

SPRZĘT NURKOWY SPRZEDAŻ I SERWIS

Gorgonia from Papa uno
Ghost Cave

cyprus and everytHing is clear

… like the sun there

are you looking for the perfect place to dive?

Cyprus is such a place. it is only a few hours of flight from most european capitals and we can already enjoy the blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

You will have perfect visibility and the right water temperature, which in winter is not less than 16ºC, and in summer it fluctuates around 30ºC.

Cyprus, the third largest island in the Mediterranean Sea and the most populous. When planning, it is best to choose one of the two international airports in Paphos or Larnaca. I will focus on the airport in Larnaca and on the

text and photos ro B ert toM asz pietras

south-eastern part of the island, where the famous Zenobia wreck is located.

Zenobia is a Swedish RO-RO (roll-on, roll-off) ferry, which sank with its entire load in June 1980. It should be mentioned that it was the maiden voyage of this unit, built in 1979 in Sweden. The wreck is recognized as one of the TOP 10 diving sites in the world for recreational divers. However, not only they will find something for themselves. The wreck lies on the left side at a depth of 42 m, while its right side is at 16 m, so even divers with a basic level can dive and see the 172 m long vessel. There are about a hundred trucks, construction equipment and one Żiguli passenger car – private car of the captain of the ship. Thanks to the good visibility, divers with OWD can see the first bolt, which is at 27 m, or trucks that are already from 25 m. AOWD divers may enter the captain's bridge and the crew cabins. Visit a restaurant where the red checkered carpet still hangs on the floor, so it's worth taking a flashlight with you to confirm its color. The bar also has taps for drinks and beer. Then we enter the passenger compartment and leave it in the middle of the wreck. Daylight reaches these places, so even without lighting, we will see what the wreck looks like inside. Then along the side, where the rescue boats are located, we will return to one of the many relief lines.

Another day and more dives at Zenobia. Now we will need flashlights, but these are still dives up to 30 m. When we enter the first cargo compartment through the door, we will have perfectly preserved trucks under us, including one that transported cow bones or another that transported bottles with technical spirit. To see them, we have to rise to a depth of about 19 m under the starboard, there are a lot of them there. As divers with the AOWD degree, we can visit another load compartment. By swimming through the hatch that was used to attach the tow rope, you will find yourself in a world of complete darkness. Moving to the left we can admire, among others huge drill bit, forklift or cars with wood. Moving to the right, among the loads, there will be military sleeping bags, "Frania" washing machines, other loads with wood, but also a "blue kopeck" – the captain's car, which lies at a depth of 31 m. On the way back, we will see Playmobil toys, police batons with chocolate covered nuts, or other toys and sweets that have been lying there for 40 years. Having diving license up to 40m, we can swim between the loads, see the bottom screw which is at 40 m or the chicken eggs resting on the bottom. An engine compartment will also be available, the entrance to which is located 38 m deep. Remember that we will not have much time, because as recreational divers, we cannot perform decompression

dives. As you have noticed, Zenobia is a great place to train in wreck or deep diving. As technical divers, we can safely make 10 dives and none of them will be repeated. It all depends on your experience. The lower compartment of the passenger cabins, the first cargo compartment where you can swim between cars at a depth of 38 m, the second cargo level which I already mentioned. The third level that is available to the most experienced divers. It houses more loads, such as Persian carpets, and thanks to the fact that there are not many dives there, everything is in perfect condition. Engine compartment, workshop or extinguishing chamber.

As you can see, there is really a lot to see here. But the wreck is not only the ironwork, it is also home to many species of animals, incl. barracudas, groupers, lionfish, minerals (tuna family) or turtles, nudibranchs and many other species. Zenobia is a great place for photographers. Everyone will find something for him/herself.

Okay, Cyprus is not only Zenobia.

Nearby there is another wreck – Alexandria, which is a large fishing boat that lies between 20 and 30 meters deep. This place is liked by lionfish and tuna. Unfortunately, the bridge has already fallen and we cannot swim to it, but we can easily see it around.

There is another wreck of the Champagne yacht nearby. The maximum depth is 18m.

Another ship has recently been sunk – Elpida. It is situated in the Golden Bay, up to 30 meters deep. The seventy-meter vessel, although it has been lying for six months, has already attracted many species of fish. The ship is placed on the keel, making it perfect for shooting. As in the case of Zenobia, we can swim inside to see the cargo compartments or the engine compartment.

That's it for the wrecks in Larnaca.

Now we will move east to Cavo Greko.

Since we started with wrecks, we also have a few in this area. We will start with Agia Napa and the Kerynia wreck, which was sunk in 2012 near Nissi Beach. It lies at a depth of 30 meters. There is no vegetation nearby, only white sand, thanks to which the visibility on the wreck is insane, which is a treat for underwater photographers. Unfortunately, this has its downsides as there aren't many fish around. The wreck is a 30m long war boat.

Further east in Paralimni we have two wrecks Liberty and a Nemesis III. Both were sunk with divers in mind. The first is at a depth of 30 m, the second at about 25 m. Both are resting on the keel. The advantage is that we can see both of these wrecks during one dive. Liberty is a small vessel,

in fact the sides and superstructure, in which octopuses, moray eels and other fish hide. Nearby is the sunken Orthodox Cross and a statue of the Virgin Mary, which I have sunk myself 

The wreck of the Nemesis III is quite a large fishing boat, in excellent condition. Another great place for photography. We can find rays, turtles and shoals of jacks here. Last year, an artificial reef was created nearby, where there are already a lot of animals.

But Cavo Greko is not only wrecks, there are several dive sites among which everyone will find something for themselves. We'll start with Green Bay. A beautiful bay in Protaras, where practically all diving centers from the area of Cavo Greko and Larnaca, as well as Limassol come with people who want to start their diving adventure. The perfect flat entrance to the bay, no currents and only sometimes slight waves make it an ideal place where we can do all the exercises and check diving. Then the bottom slowly drops to 10 m. Along the way, there are lots of huge boulders, grass, where we can also meet turtles, and shoals of fish. On the sandy bottom there are "ancient" columns and statues, which I also had the pleasure of sinking, cutting the legs that were damaged during the sinking. Unfortunately, some of them were stolen a few years ago. After diving, we will be able to see the remains of amphorae from several thousand years ago.

For divers who are already certified, it is possible to swim up to 18 m. There are two caves that we can swim through.

We will start with Agia Napa and the Kerynia wreck... It lies at a depth of 30 meters. There is no vegetation nearby, only white sand, thanks to which the visibility on the wreck is insane, which is a treat for underwater photographers.

One is about 6 m long and the other a little longer, starting at a depth of 13 m and slowly descending to 18 m. There are corals in the cave, which the lionfish likes.

Another place is Konnos Bay and CyclopCave – the name can be misleading because the cave is unfortunately not underwater. The dropping bottom of up to 50 m makes it a perfect place for recreational and technical divers, where we do not have to dive from a boat. On the other side of the bay, we have Chapel, a small church, and under the water huge boulders, lots of grass and fish. The bottom drops to about 40 m.

We move a little further west to the Sea Caves spot. The maximum depth is 16 m and five caves, Caverna 

The first one is 12 m deep and about 6m long, the next one starts at 12 m, is about 30 m long and shallows up to 6 m. In the very center there is a quite large hole through which the sun's rays come, so you can take really great photos. Another one at a depth of 6 meters, where we will see shoals of fish, and scyllarus and other animals.

Now it's time to work with your fins and we have another cave at a depth of 8 meters. When entering it, we have to bend In half in order to get out vertically at 5 m. We return to the place of entry and swim into the last cave, from which we will exit through two holes to the shore.

Another place is Canyon. A very picturesque place with beautiful corals and amazing rock formations, walls and a canyon where we start and end our dive.

We return towards Larnaca to the village of Xylofagou where we have several dive sites accessible from the shore. SheepDeep where we can safely make two different dives up to a depth of 18 m. As before, we have interesting rocks and boulders here, and what I like the most about this place are the stalactites rising from the bottom, among which octopuses and nudibranchs hide. A little further away is another site with similar formations and corals by the shore.

Diving from a boat in the vicinity of Xylofagou and Dekelia, we can enter the bat cave. We start at 6 m and swim in to watch these flying "mice" and then come back to swim deeper into the next caves.

There is also the wreck of HMS Cryckiet, a gunboat from the Second World War. It lies upside down, so you have to dive under it to see what's inside. Another wreck is a barge, metal structures and helicopter wreckage sunk by the British army for exercises.

We return to Larnaca and continue west to Limassol, the banking center of Cyprus. Here we have sunk two wrecks,

Lady Thasis and Costandis. These are two fishing boats that were sunk a few years ago.

For those planning to fly to Paphos, there will also be something for diving. For example the White River with its colorful canyons or the St. George's Island and the Vera K wreck. Picturesque places of the Akamas peninsula, where there are still remains of ancient civilization.

We return to Larnaca, where there are more wrecks, unfortunately not available for divers. It is i.a. Mazotos wreck, where we can dive only exceptionally, when we want to catalog the remains with archaeologists. Diving on this wreck is organized once a year and in this case you need to apply to the Ministry of Fisheries for permits.

However, Cyprus is not only about diving. The island is a great idea for a trip with the whole family. Larnaca will be the best starting point. The airport nearby and the city's location make a great "command center" for exploring the island.

In Larnaca we have an aqueduct from the Roman Empire, the remains of a fortress next to a mosque. The salt lake and the mosque of Umm Haram (Hala Sultan), the wife of one of the companions of the Prophet Muhammad, and is buried there. In the city center there is also the church of St. Lazarus. Going towards Limassol, we have other archaeological sites worth seeing. For example, the bottom of a salt lake near Akratiri through which the road to Limassol leads.

There is another ancient church in Agia Napa.

In the middle of the island, we have the Trodos mountains, where we can ski in winter, there are cross-country trails and a T-bar lift. Just below, we have several waterfalls that can be a great spot for romantic hikes.

Going further north to the so-called Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, not recognized by any country except Turkey, we can go to St. Hilarion. The road abounding in serpentines gives us a wonderful view of the city of Kerynia (Girme), where we have another castle with the remains of one of the historic wrecks.

Personally, I recommend crossing the border near Derynia and going east to the Karpaz peninsula. On the way, visit the ghost town of Famagusta, where there are still remnants of the war between Turkey and Cyprus in the 70s of the last century. There are, among others a castle known for the art of Othello, William Sheaksper and a medieval church. A bit further we have Salamis, an ancient city and several other monuments, as well as kilometers long beaches with white sand. On the peninsula, there is a Monastery, to which a road full of wild donkeys leads, who eagerly look into our car and await food. Driving this picturesque road you will come across the oldest Christian church on the island.

Going from Karpaz towards the setting sun to Kerynia, we can admire the cliff embankment and the mountains covered with vegetation. Then from Kerynia we drive south towards the capital of Cyprus – Nicosia, where we cross the border and further south to Larnaca.

Cyprus is a cluster of cultures. There were Persians, Romans, Greeks, Arabs, English, French, so all over the island we have remnants of the conquests. Not only in architecture, but also in food.

There are plenty of seafood and lamb restaurants in Larnaca itself. Personally, I recommend the Lebanese restaurant Al Sultan, which is located on the Fenikudes beach in the city center. Great cuisine and a great atmosphere, and on Fridays and Saturdays we can enjoy belly dancing with a wonderful view of the sea, palm trees and the moon. For those who want to lie on the beach, I suggest the previously mentioned Fenikudes or Psarolimano and Makenzie, where the beach connects to the airport and we can observe planes approaching.

The island has about 1 million inhabitants. It is divided into two parts. The currency in Cyprus is the Euro, and in the occupied territories, the Turkish Lira. When crossing the border, we do not need a passport, we only need an ID card.

Gozo in a nutshell

the Maltese archipelago lies in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, 93 km south of i taly, 288 km north of a frica, and includes three islands: Malta, g ozo and Comino, and many other islets.

Historically, its central location between Europe, Africa and the Middle East has made the Archipelago a strategic commercial crossroad and naval base, resulting in a graveyard of more than 100 wrecks, from a 2,700-year-old Phoenician wreck, to battleships and WWII aircraft wrecks.

For years, the Maltese Ministry of Tourism has been actively promoting this heritage among the diving community by supporting projects that attract recreational and technical divers from around the world, making Malta's reputation one of the best wreck diving sites.

Apart from wreck diving, few people know that the best word to sum up the Maltese archipelago is "limestone". Limestone shaped the stunning topography of the islands on the surface and turned Malta into an underwater paradise surrounded by warm, clear waters and a year-round temperate climate. Even fewer people have heard of Malta's

sister island, namely Gozo, known locally as Għawdex. Karst caves, tunnels, crevices and hollows create a spectacular landscape both above and below the water, making Gozo a unique gem among the Maltese Islands.

The archipelago lies on a large carbonate platform and is composed entirely of dense sedimentary rock that has been deposited during the ever-changing Mediterranean levels over millions of years. Carbonate deposits were originally living organisms, such as coral reefs, shells, or very finegrained plankton that thickened and eroded due to waves and currents.

From lower coral limestone 35 million years ago to upper coral limestone 7 million years ago, a layered sediment of particles has deposited under the water, creating islands that are only the youngest rock peaks to rise above the sea.

Mgarr Ix Xini Bay

"GhawdeX" divinG

The ferry crossing only takes 25 minutes to leave Malta's constant busy atmosphere and then set foot on Gozo. Mostly populated by farmers and fishermen, Gozo is more rural and peaceful. The island has 30,000 inhabitants spread over an area of 7 by 14 kilometers. Gozo is known among divers who prefer to stay away from the hustle and bustle of the main island and enjoy a more spectacular underwater topography.

Although theoretically you can dive here all year round, the rapid changes in weather conditions during the winter make it safer to visit the island in the months of April to November.

At the peak of the diving season, Gozo welcomes individual divers as well as organized groups with guides. The Malta Tourism Authority together with the Professional Diving Schools Association of Malta maintain all facilities for the diving community. These are roads, ladders, buoys, toilet cabins. Everything you need to enjoy safe access to water and a comfortable stay.

Gozo has its own hyperbaric chamber, designed to treat mild cases where the seriousness of diving accidents does not require patients to be transported by helicopter to Malta.

Neither Malta nor Gozo have conserved their fish stocks well enough in recent years for the islands to offer as much marine life as they used to. Sharks, dolphins, and turtles have disappeared a long time ago and are rarely seen. However, the development of artificial reefs and the project to create marine reserves in Gozo are still ongoing.

The species that can still be found: polychaetes, seahorses, groupers, amberfish, octopuses, cuttlefish, barracuda, small rays, moray eels, mullets and parrotfish.

Most of the dive sites are located on the north, west and south coasts of the island. The vast majority of them are accessible from the shore, and the relatively small area of the island makes them accessible within a short drive.

Even though the main road network of the island has been renovated in recent years, some dive sites require you to cross fields or drive down steep roads, which makes the use of small Jeeps popular on the island.

Gozo offers a large selection of dive sites, with entrances ranging from easy to difficult, which require a good diver's condition and suitable weather conditions.

It has everything: wrecks for recreational and technical divers, shallow, protected bays for beginners and trainees, deep walls just a few meters from the shore, but most of all, the unique topography of tunnels and caves.

Cominoland Wreck

wrecks

XattL'Ahmar is one of the most popular destinations on the southeast coast of Gozo, as it hosts three shipwrecks, the only one on the island, lying on a sandy bottom, approximately fifty meters apart. They were all sunk near the shore at a recreational depth of 40 meters, creating an artificial reef. Entry requires a short walk from the car park and is accessed from two short ladders.

Eighty meters long, the MV XlendiWreck was the first wreck to be sunk in 1999. Unfortunately, it sank upside down, and the interior collapsed thereby making it unstable and dangerous for penetration. However, the two large propellers located in the shallower part are worth the dive.

MV Karwela followed it a few years later, in 2006. It is sitting perfectly upright and is about fifty meters long. It remains the most popular of the three wrecks among technical

Cominoland
Wreck
Blue Hole

divers looking for rust in the deepest decks and underwater photographers who never stop shooting pics of the majestic stairs leading to the three decks. The wreck is safe for penetration due to large holes cut along the sides before sinking the vessel.

MV Cominoland was sunk in the same year. It sits upright on a sandy seabed and is about thirty-five meters long. Its two decks offer great potential for safe penetration and exploration.

Bays

Recreational divers looking for easy access to water are favored by the shallow bays of the southern coast, protected by rocks.

The most famous is Mgarr Ix Xini, a three-hundred-meter stretch of reef and sand leading to two caves, surrounded by high cliffs protecting from the winds. The marine life spotted during the day makes it an ideal place for night diving.

Xlendi Bay is another popular destination for both recreational divers due to its shallow easy ascent, and technical divers for the deep wall at its end. In the middle of the bay,

a 70-meter tunnel cuts across the cliff and offers beautiful lighting.

Xwejni Bay, located in the north, offers a rather unique underwater scenery where the limestone has been carved over the years, creating small labyrinthine passages in the shallows.

A few other shallow bays like Hondoq or Red Bay are visited by beginner divers or diving schools.

deep walls

Deeper spots (+ 40 meters) can be found all over the island.

On the west coast, Dwejra is the most popular diving site on Gozo. Includes the Inland Sea, the remains of the former AzureWind Blue Hole, provides access to Coral Cave, Crocodile Rock, Big Bear and Little Bear.

A shallow, semicircular lagoon 60 meters wide in the Inland Sea opens into a tunnel 80 meters long with vertical walls and a gravel bottom. Outside the tunnel, the seabed drops more than 50 meters south into the Blue Hole. In its northern part, the San Dimitri cliffs offer a series of cracks

MV Xlendi Wreck
Karwela Wreck

and caves, some within swimming distance, including the whale cave and the Tal-Barba cave which is approximately 120 meters to penetrate.

The Blue Hole can be reached after 200 meters of difficult walk along a rocky path. This sink is approximately 10 meters wide and 15 meters deep. A beautiful arch opens onto the remains of the AzureWindow, a 30-meter-long arch that collapsed in 2017 into massive blocks of limestone that rolled down to over 80 meters deep.

On the south coast, Ras Il Hobz, also known as the Middle Finger, is a peak rising from over 80 meters to 10 meters, making it a popular destination for technical divers due to its ease of access from the shore. The summit is home to abundant marine life such as amberjack, dentex and moray eels.

In addition to the double arch, a large formation located more than 40 meters deep that requires a long swim with easy entry into Xwejni Bay, the cliffs on the north coast offer mainly ladder entrances with direct access to over 40 meters deep around Reqqa Point.

caves

There are numerous cracks, tunnels and caves around the island. Some of them can be difficult and confusing. SEEK CORRECT TRAINING AND GIVE UP IF YOU ARE NOT TRAINED.

The most visited cave that can be accessed from the shore is the Billinghurst Cave, which is the largest cave located near Reqqa in the north. At a reasonable depth of 25 meters, its length of 120 meters leads to a dark chamber

with a gas pocket and unique square formations on the walls that resemble some temples visited on land. Even though Billinghurst offers a wide cave zone (daylight zone) as someone penetrates deeper into the cave area, the loss of natural light and the distance to the cave exit can be potentially risky for a single cylinder diver.

In the same area, the Bottle Neck Cave is a demanding long ladder climb and allows deep technical diving. A cave with a narrow 30-meter entrance that allows little light and opens onto a fairly large chamber decorated with fine coral. You can go out from a distance of 60 meters on a sandy bottom with the right mixture of gases.

CathedralCave is a large cave and at the same time safer to dive, despite difficult access through the highest ladder of the island. It consists of a huge dome with access only under the sea. Piercing the surface inside the cave, the dome is lit by the sun's rays piercing through small holes in the wall. Every sound, word or wave echoes off the walls.

Greek leGend G ozo and calypso

Whoever visits and dives in Gozo is charmed by the beauty of the island, its tranquility and will definitely plan a return or stay.

The island is surrounded by myths and there is much debate as to whether Gozo is the legendary island of "Ogygia" mentioned in the Odyssey of Homer, where Calypso charmed and held Odysseus captive on her island for seven years to make him her immortal husband.

Xlendi Tunnel

Phuket Island

a  long time ago i  got a postcard from thailand, a real one, handwritten and delivered by a postman. a  postcard that travelled half the globe to reach me. i t had all the hallmarks of a journey that a person often feels when he sets out to the end of the world.

text sylwia kos M alska-juriewicz photos adrian juriewicz

This postcard, despite being "tired", was the most beautiful card I have ever been given... a monk in orange robes wandering through a rainforest with an elephant by his side. This card made me want to visit Thailand. I wanted to see a country that emanates peace and smile with my own eyes. "Travel is my home" – wrote Matsuo Basho. Travel is the word that best describes who I am and what I miss the most in the world.

I land on the island of Phuket in the late afternoon. The sun slowly sets on the horizon, creating a golden glow in the sea. Straight from the airport we go to the hotel, which is situated on a small hill with a beautiful view of the Andaman Sea. The reception desk is an open space, surrounded by a garden planted with plumeria trees that bend under an incredible amount of white and pink flowers.

Despite the exhaustion, we decided to eat our first dinner in Thailand, downtown. The streets are bustling with life, the smell of grilled dishes is everywhere, shrimps, calamari, fish, fresh pomegranate and lime juices, banana pancakes, fruit ice cream... it is a real paradise for the palate. We do not enter the restaurant, we choose street food, sit on plastic stools at a table with a crooked leg. We order grilled shrimps in hot chili sauce, served with algae salad. The flavours of Asia will explode in our mouths, now we know we really came here...

The next day we get up at dawn, with a cup of delicious coffee in hand, we admire the sunrise from our hotel terrace. Coffee in such a place tastes delicious, we enjoy each sip accompanied by exotic birds. After breakfast, we get into a minibus and drive to the diving center, 15 minutes away from our hotel. We are welcomed by Alex and Mike who will be our guides and dive supervisors for the next three days. We receive colourful plastic boxes, signed with our names, in which we put the equipment, and leave the suitcases and bags at the diving center. In this form, our equipment goes to the port and is packed on the boat. We drive a few minutes to the port in Halong, from where we go diving. The ships are moored close together, tight enough for us to easily cross several decks to our boat. Before that, however, we remove the flip-flops and leave them in a special shoe basket. Our boat is large and very comfortable. The lower equipment deck is practically all divided by several rows of low benches on which the cylinders stand, attached in such a way that none of them fall off while sailing. Under the benches, the staff put our boxes with diving equipment, and on the benches, they placed towels and reusable water bottles with drinking water, each signed with a name. Everything is well prepared and wrapped up neat and tidy. During our stay on the island of Phuket, we bought a few diving days, during which we visited the most interesting diving sites in the vicinity of Phuket Island – Shark Point, Anemone Reef, Phi Phi island, Racha Noi, King Cruiser, Racha Yai.

Today we dive three times and we swim to the first diving site (Shark Point) for about two hours. It is one of the most popular and most visited places. It is located between Anemone Reef and the King Cruiser wreck. It owes its name

to Loeopart sharks, which can be found here resting on the sand or swimming among rock formations.

Anemone Reef is a paradise for photographers and filmmakers of the underwater world. The place, as the name suggests, is famous for anemones, which like carpets surround the rock that rises from the bottom of the Andaman Sea. During one dive, we can swim around it several times observing the extremely rich marine life. There are not only anemone fish, which live in symbiosis with anemones, but also numerous schools of small tropical fish, nudibranchs, seahorses, moray eels, lionfish and many other creatures that have chosen this place for their home.

King Cruiser is a majestic catamaran wreck that used to sail between Phuket Island and the Phi Phi Islands. Under mysterious circumstances during one of the voyages in 1997, it hit the reef and sank. Both passengers and crew members were rescued. The shipwreck lies at a depth of 32 m, the upper deck is slightly below 20 m. A lot of controversy arose around this event, as the 85-meter passenger ship travelled from Phuket to Phi Phi very often, and on that unfortunate day it deviated from the course and hit the only possible obstacle on the route, on a beautiful sunny day. Today the catamaran is home to numerous sea creatures and is a paradise for divers.

Racha Yai is a perfect place for the so-called check dive for people who have had a longer break in diving. The rocky slopes are covered with hard corals and the visibility exceeds thirty meters. While diving, we can meet moray eels, lionfish, turtles, clownfish, cuttlefish and many other creatures that have found shelter among corals.

After each dive, a light meal waited for us on the boat, then we rested on the bow waiting for the next dive.

After three days of diving, it is time for a full-day trip to Phi Phi Island, Maya and Khai Island. The driver is waiting in the hotel lobby, he will take us to the port, from where all the boats depart for these paradise islands. The trip takes about an hour. The car stops at the side of the road, right next to the snoorkelling accessories store. With a broad smile on her face, we are greeted by a short, plump woman – "Hello, I am Jamala, welcome to our office. Please join the pink group that I will guide. Tie all the pink ribbons around your wrists so you will not get lost and I will keep an eye on you. From now on, you form one team and belong to one boat". In front of the store, under a small roof, there are plastic chairs arranged in several rows. More cars with tourists come, this time they get green and red ribbons. It is slowly getting crowded. Suddenly, I am disturbed by the loud voice of our funny guide. “There is tea and coffee there, and she

points to a small table under a tree, all for free. You can drink at will. And when everyone has finshed drinking, feel free to sit on the chairs, and we begin. My name is Sexy Jamala, welcome to our company. Today we are going on a trip, we will visit several islands, one is very dangerous, because there are monkeys on it, and what a surprise, you must buy a waterproof bag on a string for your phone, since it will protect the device from getting wet and stolen by unruly animals. Remember, Jamala added, this is a must-have accessory that everyone must acquire for their safety, because macaques can be nasty and attack by surprise. We have several colours to choose from. Another essential item are fins, you absolutely have to rent them or buy them, because in the places where we will swim under the surface of the water, sea urchins are swarming. Here is a mock-up that illustrates this (we see a faded banner depicting a human foot with sea urchin spikes stuck in it). The treatment is very expensive, added Jamala, and very long. Nothing wants to heal, so it is best to buy fins or rent them. The list of essential protective accessories only grew longer, and Jamala spoke of them with such conviction in her voice that before she finished speaking, tourists crowded in queue to buy the necessary accessories that would save their lives and secure their phones. Everyone left the store with fins, glasses and colorful phone bags that would protect not only from water but also from

aggressive attacks by wild animals, as promised by Jamala. There is only one conclusion, if macaques do not get us, sea urchins will do it for sure!!! After the "educational" part and familiarising ourselves with all the procedures, we went to the port, where a boat was waiting for us. We went out to sea at great speed, in a boat powered by three large engines. We take an hour to the first point of our Phi Phi Don “Monkey Beach” trip, the journey passes quickly, some people used this time for a short nap. The boat stopped right on the beach at that moment Sexy Jamali spoke: "drinks, water, cola free, all free, watch out for monkeys, she added and in 30 minutes we meet on the boat. If someone is late, we will pick him up tomorrow. Remember the name of the boat and be on time, she added, and now have fun and remember that Jamala is waiting for you."

The narrow, sandy beach is surrounded by cliffs, densely covered with exotic plants. Here and there a small macaque sneaks and rather avoided people. During our visit to the beach, there was one incident involving a tourist from another boat. Despite the warnings and the prohibition, the lady decided to pet the monkey, and it jumped on her back

and scratched her neck. Squeaking, screaming and panic. It is even difficult to comment on this situation, because I believe that there is no cure for human stupidity... The island is very beautiful, but also very crowded with tourists. Our visit coincided with the high tourist season (May) in Thailand. We get on the boat after a short visit to the island and set off from the shore, drinking Coke and free water.

The next item on the agenda is snorekeling in the bay. Remember, dear, Jamala says: "this is a place where sharks can be found, if you are lucky you will meet a baby shark, and if you are unlucky it will be its mother". Each participant gets a mask and a pipe and we jump into the water one by one. Some people do this activity for the first time, as evidenced by the inability to put on the face mask and choking on water. Lots of colourful, beautiful fish swim to us, the water is pleasantly warm and, as always, we enjoy the contact with it.

In a good company and in a wonderful place, time flies inexorably fast and it is not known when it is time for lunch, for which we are sailing to Phi Phi Don. Emerald water, white sand, palm trees, saturated green in these few words I can describe this small island where muslims live

and serve tourists. It was an extraordinary surprise, especially for those who wanted to buy alcohol on the island. We eat lunch in a restaurant overlooking the sea and a few small shops. I separate for a moment from the group, walk on the beach, rest and swim in the sea. I would like to stay a little longer, but Jamala's voice reminds us that it is time to get on the boat, it is time to go on to the next island.

Maya Bay, probably most of you watched the movie called: "The Beach", starring Leonardo Dicaprio. It was on this beach that the scenes for this movie were shot. Which contributed even more to the popularity of the island. The beach surrounds the island of Koh Phi Phi Lee. When we type the word Thailand in the google search engine each time we will see a photo of wooden boats with colourful pennants tied to their bows. The photos were taken on the island we just sailed to. Maya Bay is an extremely charming and fairy-tale place. Just as perfect as in the folders advertising the tour. Wooden boats decorated with flowers stand neatly moored by the shore. Anyone can take the boat or take a photo in it, of course for a small fee. The beach is small, only 200 m long and surrounded by 100 m high cliffs.

Khai Nai island is the last point of the programme on the map of our full-day, intense trip. The island is very intimate and in addition to Cola and free water, Jamala also prepared a fruit snack. We have two hours to relax and unwind. As for me, enough time to enjoy the heavenly views. Jamala thanked everyone and everyone for a fantastic adventure together. She also noted that if we are satisfied with the trip, Jamala accepts only cash, no credit card.

a travelling diver

part 1

Whether you are taking a 23-hour flight to the other end of the world or a 23-minute trip to the lake, there's a journey of some kind behind each and every dive. that is why safety is crucial aspect of our mission here at dan. this smart guide is a fast and easy tool to help you prepare for a diving trip to local and remote destinations.

divinG Gear checklist

This list is to provide the basics to facilitate adjusting your luggage to the details of your trip. Draft your own basic list, then edit and adjust it, adding any special equipment, as well as clothes, toiletries and other personal items needed for a specific trip.

d oMestic trips

One of the advantages of domestic trips is that they may be more spontaneous and cheaper than international trips. Knowing how to reach your destination and prepare even for the shortest trip to the nearest coast, lake or quarry may make your local trips easier, safer and more pleasant. get prepared:

• Draft a packing checklist based on your typical dives.

• Maintain your equipment in a condition that would allow

you to pack it easily and start off.

• Prepare a first aid kit and emergency kit.

• Update your certificates. before you start off:

• Check the weather, currents and the water temperature at your destination.

• Adjust your packing checklist for this specific trip.

• Check your first aid kit and refill if needed.

• Tell someone where you're headed.

• Remember to take enough water and healthy snacks with you.

international trips two months before the trip:

• Make sure your passport is valid for at least six month from the last planned date of the trip.

• Check whether a tourist visa will be required.

• Find out whether you need any vaccinations.

• Complete the RSTC medical form and ask a doctor to sign it, if needed. one month before the trip:

• Review prescription drugs regulations at your country of destination.

• Get the local currency and discuss international ATM

arrangements with your bank.

• Find out whether your credit cards will charge transaction fees. two weeks before the trip:

• Adjust your packing checklist.

• Create a global connections plan.

• Ensure you have bought or renewed your travel insurance. one week before the trip:

Make two copies of each of the following documents: passport (preferably color copies), driving license, credit cards, travel plan, accommodation confirmation and visa (if needed). Leave one set of copies to someone at home and pack the other one separately from the original documents. 24 hours before the trip:

• Check in for your flight and make sure you have a seat assigned.

• Review your packing list once again and copy it to make packing for the return trip easier (so that you don’t forget your toiletries, chargers, medications etc.).

• Inform someone about your travel plans.

flyinG with divinG Gear

Sometimes looking forward to the fantastic dives is the

only way to endure the headache related to traveling with your diving gear, which might be troublesome, burdensome and difficult to explain to the airport security. Follow the guidelines below to facilitate this process. check before the check-in

If you are planning to bring your gear with you, think what luggage you will need to check in and what can you take on board in order to ensure you can dive even if your bags don’t reach your destination. Remember also to consult the airline and destination country luggage limits.

carry-on luggage: Regulators, dive computer, mask carry-on or checked luggage: BCD, fins, diving snorkel checked luggage only: Cutting tools, diving cylinders. When traveling with cylinders, make sure the valves are screwed out

rentinG divinG Gear

If you decide to forgo the hassle of traveling with your own gear, find a dive operator that offers equipment rentals. Quality of rentals may differ, so make sure you thoroughly check the diving centers at your destination. If you decide to rent equipment on site, you still may want to bring with you a few things, like your diving mask or fins.

DIVING SITE RULES AND REGULATIONS

Rules may differ depending on the site you'll be diving. Regulations may cover anything, from the type of equipment you are allowed to use to what times you are allowed to dive. Before you choose a dive site, ask these questions: does my training match the diving site requirements?

Not all dive sites allow open water recreational diving. Some sites – likes caverns and caves – require more advanced training. Make sure you meet the certification and training requirements.

What equipment is allowed?

Some sites require special equipment, like buoys or independent air sources. Others prohibit the use of some items, such as dive gloves or crossbows, to protect the marine en-

vironment. Find out what is required and what is prohibited before you start packing.

What are the dive site access requirements?

Protected diving sites or sites located near private properties may require buying a ticket or a diving card. You might also learn that access is limited to certain places only. Don’t show up on site just to be turned back – do your own reconnaissance.

Good diving practice suggests divers follow the established rules wherever in the world they are. Remember that diving regulations are in place to protect your safety and the marine environment, as well as the local customs and regulations at your travel destination.

”Shush!”

on The benefiTs of diving wiTh a deaf diver

d iving has you witness a symphony of various sounds, including the humming of motorboat engines, the guide's rattle, air bubbles escaping towards the water surface, the sound of water and many more.

The vast majority won't be able to imagine these, as your hearing works quite well. Some of you will also ask: But how?! How could you not hear anything underwater, where there are so many different sounds?!

This is the everyday life for me and some other Deaf divers – both on a daily basis and when we dive. But don’t be worried – it is not as bad as it could seem.

This is the underwater opera you all know and love in your everyday dives. Now, try to imagine diving or strolling along the shore in complete silence. While you cannot hear any sounds, no birds singing, no humming nor – when you take underwater “strolls” – your own breath or the sound of air bubbles. Can you imagine that?

Our sense of touch allows us to feel the bubbles escaping from our regulators and from time to time we can feel vibrations coming from a source we are unable to identify, but I must admit that diving in this exceptional Silence is really relaxing and comfortable. As there is no ambience, I can be fully focused on the visual reception of the beautiful underwater world and communicating with my buddy. Thus, the underwater world becomes my private “oasis” – a space where the land's reality has no access.

text and photos karolina jakó B czak

Benefits of divinG with a deaf diver

One could ask: what are the benefits of diving with a Deaf buddy? Well, let me tell you right away!

1. Deaf divers are highly focused on everything that is happening underwater. So nothing eludes their attention!

2. The Deaf usually have a field of view that is broader than that of people who can hear, because they are strong visualizers and they notice every the tiniest movement.

3. They are usually quite fast to grasp the message other people are trying to communicate with their fingers, hands or face expression. Although it is hard to read from one’s face underwater, yet you can communicate quite fast with hand gestures.

4. A world lacking (or with limited) verbal communication is the natural environment of Deaf people, so they acquire non-verbal communication faster and easier, which often makes them perfect buddies for diving adventures. They would be pleased if you knew the basics of their sign language. An underwater chat would surely make the time

spent in decompression stops pass faster! There would be no place for boredom!

coMMunication

During our underwater ventures we communicate with basic diver signs.

The basic question signs we all know: about your buddy's air supply, whether they are cold and the endless “OK?” and “OK!” signs. Those signs, as you all know, are designed to facilitate communication between buddies and are usually sufficient.

But for me – a person who speaks the Polish Sign Language on a daily basis – this way of conveying information is a very poor and simplified form of communication.

So as a person using the Polish Sign Language in everyday life – I encourage my diver friends to explore this visual-spatial language, which only appears to be complex and difficult.

If you dived with a Deaf diver, your communication possibilities would be greater if you knew their sign language!

You have no idea how pleased a Deaf diver would be, if you knew the basics of their sign language.

Sometimes I find myself wanting to sign something to my diving buddy but then a red light saying “STOP!” appears in my head. “They don’t speak sign language! They would understand just as much as I wouldn't understand a conversation in a crowded bar…”.

At times like these, I realize how nice it would be if at least some hearing divers accepted the challenge and signed up for a basic sign language course.

After completing such a course, one could be able to use some of the signs in communication during diving. Oh, for the love of Poseidon! The world would be even more beautiful and merrier, and every venture even louder (literally and figuratively).

As encouragement, let me add that across Poland there are 6 to 8 million people with hearing deficiency, about 1 million with a serious hearing loss and about 30–50 thousand Deaf people (although there are no statistics for it). I wouldn't need more than the fingers on one hand to count Deaf divers from Poland.

savoir vivre

Alright, enough of the mumbo-jumbo about sign languages and the associated benefits. Let me share some savoir vivre rules with you, or how to approach Deaf people:

1. If you don't look, you won't see. Look directly at the Deaf person, so that your mouth and face are well visible for them.

2. Staring contest! Or: maintain eye contact.

3. I can see a light, my lord! Ensure proper lighting, as Deaf people relay mainly on their eyesight. Being in a half-lit room or one with very little light makes us uncomfortable. So… turn on the light and admire each other's beauty!

4. Remember! Some Deaf people can read lips, but not all of them. This is a very difficult art. So don’t rely only just on this. Why? Let’s try an exercise: Play your favorite show on TV or YouTube. Ready? Now, turn off the sound. And? Difficult, isn’t it? This is what Deaf people feel like when lip reading.

5. Scream and shout! You can scream as much as you want – we won’t hear you! Remember, it’s not about being LOUD, but rather about speaking calmly (so disable your verbal assault rifle) and CLEAR without over-articulating syllables. Try to communicate with facial expression and gestures. It’s nothing difficult! Just your typical charades!

6. Paper and pen is your friend! If you can't overcome the communication barrier between you, use pen and paper. Although I guess inventions like a cell phone will also do the trick. Click your notebook or speech translator and have a nice conversation, buddy!

7. PATIENCE is my buddy! Be patient when communicating with a Deaf person! They might not get everything right the first time, so you might need to rewind and repeat calmly, whatever you wanted to say.

Remember these few simple rules and… GO FOR IT, FRIENDS!

ps

a huge request for all hearing-impaired divers! During your first pre-dive briefings, be open about your hearing loss/ being deaf, so that the crew know about your hearing problems and to avoid any misunderstandings that could affect your dives :)

Chasing the Eastern Baltic cod

deep below the surface of the Baltic Sea, where, without a flashlight, you can only see the outline of a wreck, and the temperature of the water makes wetsuit diving an extreme adventure, the eastern Baltic cod lives. this large creature with a barbel on its lower jaw is more commonly known as cod.

text aGata turowicz-cy Bula photos M ichal ČernÝ

In the Baltic Sea, it grows to over 120 cm in length, has three separate dorsal fins and two anal fins. The cod diet is quite rich. Its massive and elongated head with a huge mouth is adapted to the predatory diet. The spindle-shaped body and a large tail fin allows it to successfully chase the herring and sprat. A well-developed chin barbel, on the other hand, helps to penetrate the bottom and search for such prey as goby fish or crustaceans. Adult specimens do not despise their younger siblings, due to which they are classified as cannibals.

Cod is a euryhaline species, that is, it can swim in waters of varying degrees of salinity. However, in order to develop properly, the cod roe needs water of higher salinity. For this reason, this

species spawns in very deep regions of the Baltic Sea. An adult female during breeding can lay from 500,000 to even 9 million eggs. After 2–3 weeks, from the floating roe larvae of a few millimeters hatch, which at first live in the water, carried along with the sea currents. After another 3 months, the young fry begin to fall to the bottom and lead a demersal lifestyle, wandering into shallow regions in search of food.

Despite its large size and strong body structure, cod is a sensitive fish. Contrary to its flat mate, flounder, which, when pulled from the water, can survive on the surface for a few more hours, depriving the cod of its natural habitat very quickly ends in its death. Additionally, cod are sensitive to sudden changes in pressure. Pulling it to the surface with

the net or getting it on a fishing rod ends up with decompression sickness and problems with the swim bladder.

The cod population in the Baltic Sea is drastically decreasing year by year. Significant overfishing of this species in our sea is believed to be the likely cause of this phenomenon. In order to protect and restore its population, a total ban on eastern (our) cod stock was introduced, which of course met with great opposition from fishermen.

Cods are beautiful and majestic inhabitants of the Baltic Sea, which cannot be missed while diving among sunken wrecks. Unfortunately, there are fewer and fewer of them, so when you intend to eat the fish from Hel Pennisula after your next dive, make sure that it comes from a legal and reliable source.

Frigatebirds

piraTes of The skies

w hen you hear the word “frigate", we usually think of a ship. o ne thinks of a classic sailing ship, another of a packed with electronics, modern missile frigate. a fter reading this article, let it also be an image of a unique bird, the name of which directly refers to the beautiful, fast and maneuverable sailing ships that used to patrol the seas and oceans.

When a French naturalist in the second half of the 17th century called birds "frigates", he was certainly referring to the nautical qualities of the then ships of this type.

In those days, these agile sailing ships were eagerly used by pirates to carry out their evil activities, activities similar in

nature to the behavior of frigate birds. To close the topic of frigates-ships, it must first be mentioned that a type of frigate sails has developed over the centuries (our SV Dar Pomorza and SV Dar Młodzieży proudly use such sails, although the former basically does not use its masts and yards to erect sails and sail towards the setting sun, but still we can admire it as a museum at the waterfront at Kościuszko Square in Gdynia, Poland, whenever we feel like it). Secondly, some of today's frigates are used to... fight piracy. The history has come full circle, and it even seems to be giggling quietly.

Returning to the heroes of this article and their relationship with pirates. Well, these birds obtain a significant part of their food by taking it from other, smaller birds, e.g. their relatives – gannets. This is a manifestation of kleptoparasitism, which I already described as a phenomenon in the article on skuas (Perfect Diver No. 1). Frigatebirds are truly intrusive in inducing their victims to donate their own food (or the meal they carry to their chicks) by poking and grabbing their

text and photos wojciech jarosz
The white head is a characteristic feature of young birds

feathers with their long beaks, far from being delicate. This is not the only way frigatebirds get food. With the same beaks they use to torment other birds, they very effectively catch everything that can be eaten from the surface of the ocean, i.e. flying fish, squid, cuttlefish, sometimes young turtles and a whole lot of other small sea animals. They like to take the opportunity during the hunt of dolphins that scare fish that run to the surface, where the frigatebirds can easily catch them – catch the fish, of course, not dolphins. They are also very eager to use the waste thrown from fishing boats, and even steal fish from unattended decks of seafood fishing cutters. However, frigatebirds do not have a habit of squatting on the surface of the water, much less diving. The feathers of the frigatebirds are not waterproof (these birds lack efficient uropygial glands) and after soaking wet these "wet hens" are too heavy to take to the air. On the other hand, landing on the water and swimming would not be helped by a frigatebird's small feet, whose digits are as a matter of fact equipped with a interdigital webbing (the size does matter in this case). Thus, paradoxically, although frigatebirds are considered sea birds, they try to have as

little contact with water as possible. Instead, they fly over the water, and how they fly!

When Charles Darwin first saw the frigatebirds, he called them "ocean condors". Indeed, their wings are enormous, and the wingspan to body weight ratio is the largest among all their close and distant bird cousins! What's more, like condors, they make great use of thermics and rising currents, thanks to which they rise very quickly (5 m/s) to significant heights (4000 m). From such a height they glide tens of kilometers without moving their wings! The distances traveled by frigatebirds are astonishing – for them it is not a problem to cover 400 km a day. They can spend several dozen days in the air, and the record recorded in one of the studies was over two months without contact with land. No rest! How is this possible? Scientists still do not know how frigatebirds sleep or whether they sleep at all. There are several theories that point to the possibility of brief interruptions in the full brain activity of these birds, but there are also suggestions that frigates have evolutionarily managed to eliminate the need for sleep. And have done it without coffee or other "boosters".

As soon as there is an opportunity for a free meal, frigates willingly use

Where can we meet these born flyers?

Of course, over the oceans, adjacent to tropical islands, and on coastal cliffs and mainland cliffs, where they can also colonize.

Frigatebirds need to come ashore when they want to reproduce. They nest most often on oceanic islands in trees or shrubs. They form couples, and it is the female who chooses the male who tries to convince her by inflating a characteristic skin pouch with an intense red color, making sounds quite strange for a bird. The throat pouch may resemble a blown sail, which some will see as another possible reason for naming the frigatebirds. After the breeding season, the bag reduces its size, but the red skin fold is visible and allows to distinguish the male from the female, although these, depending on the species, may also have slightly different plumage in some parts of the body (similar to young animals). Once selected, a pair of frigates remains true to each other, but only in this specific season. The nest is built

by the female from material provided by the male, perhaps fearing that if she does not do it herself, the apartment will not be finished in accordance with the project. The next step is to lay one egg, from which the young hatch after 40–50 days. Interestingly, it can be at very different times of the year. Frigatebirds occur in places where summer usually lasts all year round, and therefore there is no common mating season for all pairs. Frigatebirds are very protective of their young and take care of them for the longest time of all birds (another record!). The entire reproductive cycle in frigatebirds lasts about 400 days, which means that the subsequent broods take place every second year. The young mature for a long time and do not start breeding until several years later. In the meantime, they learn the profession of a sea pirate, for example by simulating catching a fish dropped by another bird, using sticks for this purpose. They suck the ability to fly and use thermal columns with their mother's milk, although of course they do not suck anything, as they are obviously not mammals. The young birds observed by scientists, who had had no chance to acquire such competences before, rose to great heights as effectively as their parents.

Big wings, indented tail and long beak - that's how we recognize frigates

Where can we meet these born flyers? Of course, over the oceans, adjacent to tropical islands, and on coastal cliffs and mainland cliffs, where they can also colonize. Depending on the species, and there are nominally five of them, frigatebirds can be found in all oceans of the globe, as long as it is not too cold there. The magnificent frigate (Fregata magnificens), as the name suggests, the largest representative of the genus, lives on the islands and shores of the Western Atlantic and Eastern Pacific. It can also be admired in the Cape Verde Islands off the coast of Africa, and in the Galapagos. The lesser frigatebird (F. ariel) and the great frigatebird (F. minor) are also found in many places, including the South Antlantic, Eastern and Central Pacific and Indian Oceans. The remaining two species are definitely less numerous and, unlike the three already mentioned, are considered to be threatened with extinction. The Ascension frigatebird (F. aquila) breeds on Boatswain Bird Island, a small islet next to Ascension Island (the name is associated with other wonderful birds, phaetons – their English name is Boatswain bird). There is also a Christmas

frigatebird (F. andrewsii), which nests endemically on Christmas Island.

The next time you visit tropical islands, look out for those tireless, black-winged pirates. Unforgettable impressions guaranteed!

Island
In many places, frigates have learned that fishermen returning from catching fish are an occasion to eat

How to swim in ABC equipment

text M arG ita Ślizowska photos wiktor zdrojewski

we have all the elements of the equipment matched. the snorkel is attached to the right side of the mask, and the reflective cap at its end is bent so that as little water as possible flows into the snorkel. the mask is tight, because we made sure that the hair and hood are well arranged. we insert the snorkel, seal it with our lips and exhale.

We lie face down in the water, make sure the snorkel is above the surface and… we can swim  But… before we start, we should be aware of a few things. We are in the water, so there is almost always a certain amount of water in the snorkel. Therefore, a good practice is the following habit: after putting a snorkel into your mouth, first exhale to get rid of any water in the snorkel. Do exactly the same after emerging from the water, if you dived under its surface. After exhaling, carefully take the first breath in and make sure you have removed all water from the snorkel. If not – exhale again. In general, it is worth breathing carefully through the snorkel, because water can appear in it at any time.

While swimming, stretch your hands in front of you. Why? That they would protect your head while you are busy observing the underwater world. From time to time look above the surface to correct, for example, the direction of swimming and to make sure that there is no threat. Make slow, measured movements with your legs armed with fins. Try not to pull the entire fin above the water surface. Your legs should be straight at your knees, and we move from the hip. Try to avoid the so-called a bicycle (i.e. bending the knees and working with the legs, as when riding a bicycle). Slow, steady movements with breaks in between cycles will keep fatigue under control, help avoid cramps and ensure stability in the water.

If you can swim, but are not a very good swimmer – I strongly recommend additional security measures that indirectly protect you from drowning. They protect, but do not entitle us to swim too far from the shore or to snorkel without attendance. A wetsuit which has a certain buoyancy thanks to air bubbles, various types of buoys (although here you should take into account the possibility of piercing the source of buoyancy) or boards and foam pool noodles allowing for a short rest on the surface. For poor swimmers, the most effective protection is a well-fitting life-jacket. However, the popular floating mattresses on which we like to lie and sunbathe in the water are extremely dangerous. The possibil-

ity of piercing the coatings and sudden loss of the buoyancy source, falling asleep and swimming miles away, sudden falling into the water and thermal shock are just some of the dangers lurking for even those swimming perfectly...

iMMersion with Breath holdinG

An additional attraction in snorkeling (for skilled swimmers and divers) is the possibility of shallow immersion under the water. The first thing we do under water is to equalize the pressure in the ears. You have to do it very gently, briefly, and quite often (as you dive in) to prevent heavy pressure on the eardrums. And certainly you must not allow any pain. The pressure difference under water is much greater than on the surface, so you should start equalizing the pressure in the ears immediately after immersion. The simplest method is the Valsalwa maneuvre: hold your nose and blow air slightly into the clogged nose. You should feel a slight "pop" in your ears. When you feel pressure in your ears again as you go deeper, repeat this action. As you ascend, the pressure is self-equalizing (provided you are healthy). Another important topic is the awareness of the physiological processes that

are triggered in us during submerging under water. Thanks to that knowledge, we will understand why, without proper training and preparation,the immersion should not be deeper than just a few meters. One of the most serious risks is blackout, which is a sudden loss of consciousness without any warning. That is why we always snorkel with an attendant. We dive in water only if we have a partner next to us who is as well trained as we are and is able to provide first aid in the event of a danger. Dives when practicing snorkeling should be shallow and short. They should not come close to our limits. And once again, it is very important to have rescue skills. Ability to bring an unconscious person from under water, to tow them, and knowledge of the resuscitation procedure – in a word a complete rescue action. It is truly an invaluable skill. Thanks to it, we can save someone's health or life.

Thanks to the widespread access to the Internet and television, the tragic story of the Kursk submarine was followed all over the world. However, in 1939, when the USS Squalus sank, it was not possible to follow the rescue operation on television. Only the 1999 the book by Peter Maas, "The Terrible Hours", brought it closer to the world. A story about a man who carried out the greatest underwater rescue operation (The Terrible hours. The man behind the greatest submarine rescue in history).

Peter Maas, who died in 2001, was a New York journalist whose novels based on true events focused primarily on the New York Mafia. However, thanks to the fact that he became interested in the story of the sinking of an American warship, we can follow this story in the pages of his book.

The novel is very strictly based on facts and tells the story of the career of Charles "Swede" Momsen. He was an officer in the US Navy, as well as an inventor and visionary. Many of the devices he designed have been used so far in the rescue of sunken submarines. In fact, before Momsen, the sinking of a submarine was tantamount to the death of her crew. The inventions of this man gave the sailors hope.

The highlight of the novel is the rescue operation of the sunken submarine USS Squalus. It was during this action that Charles Momsen was able to demonstrate the effectiveness of his rescue techniques.

Peter Maas tells the story very fluently. The whole plot keeps you in suspense, while remaining true to the facts.

From the book you can learn not only the story of this extraordinary man, but also about the technical details of the dives performed at that time. Who would have thought that trimix was already being used back then! The novel is so intense that it only took me a few hours to read it. I definitely recommend it to all divers, not only military and submarines enthusiasts.

Mateusz popek

Peter Maas the terrible hours the greatest submarine rescue in history
Harper Perennial Paperback, 288 pages, March 6th 2001

divinig setups

part 4

special editi O n: technical training for divers preparing for emergency response

text wojciech a. f ilip

there are two ways to ensure that using a modular system will be even more enjoyable: ` getting it well adjusted to your body and needs, ` getting to know the "perks".

If you get your hands on the last three editions of Perfect Diver, you can follow the step-by-step guide on how to achieve a good fit and adjustment of your modular system. What's still left are the perks, which may prove to be indispensable once you get to know them better.

Perks are the topic of today's article about diving setups, which will also be the last part in the series. We'll be discussing the following topics:

• d-ring locations

• techniques for clipping and unclipping bolt snaps

• putting a modular system on and removing it.

Photo Ash Embi

think of d-rings as you would of pockets – they allow you to attach all of the gear that you want to take diving with you to your rig Is there anyone who never searched for their home keys that were safe in one of their trouser pockets, but just which one was it ? Too many pockets means a lot of opportunities for small items to get lost in them. In a perfect world we would not be overdoing it on the pockets and even better, we'd always place the same items in the same pockets.

Let's try to approach our d-rings in the same way. I will describe how to set-up and use a minimal number of d-rings to satisfy each and every diver. We're going to use a total of five. That's how many advanced cave and wreck divers are using.

the location and functions of the five d-rings, as presented here, is a proven and tested approach in technical diving. feel free to include a smaller or higher number of d-rings and use them as you see fit.

Right chest d-ring: this is where your main regulator goes (if you're using a long hose), your back-up light, main light and everything else that you'll be using during your dive, except for heavy, bulky gear, such as e.g. the reel. When jumping into the water, such bulky items may give you an unpleasant surprise, hitting your mask or regulator.

Left chest d-ring: this is where the back-up light and stage cylinders (stabilized using a second bolt snap, clipped into the left hip d-ring) are attached. These items are heavy and

bulky, so don't clip anything else into that d-ring to facilitate any cylinder operations you will need to perform.

Left hip d-ring: this is where the gauge goes, along with the reel or spool and the SMB (unless you've put all of that into your suit pocket). In technical diving, there's a lot more uses for this d-ring, which include clipping the lower stage cylinder bolt snaps, as well as the so-called lanyard where additional stage cylinders beyond the second one are attached.

Front crotch strap d-ring: this one is used to attach the scooter (you don't have to hold on to it for your life when diving, this cool equipment will be pulling you attached to a well-adjusted harness) or as a temporary d-ring to attach something just for a moment, e.g. when sorting out your gear still on the surface.

Rear crotch strap d-ring: there are only two functions for this one, both used in advanced dives with scooters. It's used for hauling a back-up scooter or for emergency procedures involving the use of a scooter (follow perfect diver to learn useful equipment tips and techniques used in advanced diving).

if you're a recreational diver, start early on your good habits. tr y using your d-rings the same way the pros do when diving inside wrecks. getting the hang of it now means that you won't have to change your habits when you progress on to wreck diving 

Photo Łukasz Oganowski
Photo Bartłomiej Trzciński

don't clip bulky equipment into your chest d-rings, as they may shift when jumping into the watter, hitting your mask or regulator.

d-rinG locations

Have you ever been looking for your jeans pocket? Never happened, I'm sure! Pocket distribution ensures that your hands go in almost automatically. This is exactly how your d-rings should be arranged. You can't spend too much time arranging this. You'll see how much more comfortable your dives will become when each and every time you can reach for your gear attached to one of the d-rings without having to look for its exact location.

We'll arrange the d-rings in two stages – first starting out of the water, when adjusting your harness, and then we'll fine-tune the rig when diving, using your buddy to help you.

arranging d-rings

Chest:

• Extend your arms to the sides, pull your elbows far back (this is a very important element of working on your d-rings).

• Now flex your elbows, at the same time clenching your fists and pointing your thumbs towards your chest.

• When you raise your thumbs, they should hit the d-rings.

the key consideration when clipping/unclipping something from a d-ring is the first movement your hand makes: pulling your elbow as far back as possible.

Hip:

• Rest your hands on your hips and clench your left fist slowly – this is where your hip d-ring should go.

Front crotch strap d-ring:

• This one is usually sown in place at the factory, so no need to adjust it. If that is however not the case, place it as high up on the crotch strap as possible.

Rear crotch strap d-ring:

• Stand on your left foot and raise your right knee high. Reach with your right hand above your butt – did you hit the d-ring?

Once you're all geared up, your harness and d-rings may shift slightly, so that is why the next stage, fine-tuning, must be done under water.

descend, preferably onto a stable platform

Try to "clip" a bolt snap into each of your d-rings. Do it slowly, looking forward all the time at a reference point or your depth gauge. Don't aim the bolt snap at the d-ring but rather do a calm movement with the hand holding the open bolt snap. At this time your buddy will watch closely to locate where exactly does your bolt snap end up. They may use a small camera or just watch very carefully. They should write their observations down in a waterproof notebook, slate or record the exercise on video.

Each d-ring should be located where you'll intuitively be looking for it with your bolt snap – only than can you be sure to hit the jackpot every time. So we shouldn't be looking for d-ring to clip the bolt snap. Instead we'll be using our bolt snap to show where the d-ring should be to make sure it's in the most natural position for our body.

After ascending to the surface, adjust all d-rings as per your buddy's comments and during your next dive verify your new setup. If everything is working smoothly, do one final test: without looking at your d-rings, clip a snap bolt into each of them – repeat ten times for each one.

Iron out any imperfections in the arrangement of your d-rings that may still be there.

precise arrangement of your d-rings is a very important element of the equipment adjustment process. it's enough for your d-ring to be just a few millimeters too high or too low and you'll miss it every time. select a responsible buddy to assist you with this and then do the same for them.

caution!

Before you start arranging your d-rings, check out the fragment on selecting the proper bolt snaps, which is available...below 

Bolt snaps for attachinG all pieces of equipMent to your riG

Bolt snaps come in two variants: single-ended with a gate on one side (sometimes referred to as "swivel bolts snaps"   due to their rotating eyelet) and double-ended with gates on both ends, referred to as double-enders.

You'll find it comfortable to attach swivel bolt snaps permanently to various diving gear, which will allow you to comfortably clip and unclip your gear every time. Some equipment should allow for separating the entire bolt snap when in use, e.g. the spool or reel, so double-enders are used here.

how to select the proper bolt snap size

It's crucial to be able to operate each of your bolt snaps in thick gloves that you'll be using on your dives – no matter whether those are wet gloves or drysuit gloves.

Take your gloves with you shopping – if you're taking your drysuit gloves, don't forget to take your liners too. Wear your gloves at the store and get two bolt snaps of each size ready. Grab the two bolts snaps of the same size, one in each hand, and try to clip them together. Some will be too small, some too large. Select those that you like most, which will be the easiest for you to clip and unclip.

there are many ways to select bolt snaps. When diving in warm, 20-degree water, you won't need gloves, so you'll be able to operate even smaller bolt snaps comfortably. consider whether it will be reasonable for you to buy bolt snaps of various sizes. in my opinion, if you select just one size that is optimal for you and attach such bolt snaps to all your gear, every time when you want to unclip something, your hand will find "the same" familiar bolt snap, which is more comfortable than getting used to various sizes of bolt snaps.

how to operate the bolt snap with just one hand?

Make use of the experience of your instructors or buddies, who will show you various techniques and just select whichever works best for you.

Note that a bolt snap is much easier to clip and unclip when the gate is located away from the diver and not towards your body.

useful takeaWay!

When using dry gloves, open bolt snaps with the side of your thumb – this way you won't block the gate with the loose part of your glove.

puttinG on your Modular riG

• Place the rig firmly in front of you (use your buddy to assist you).

• Attach the drysuit hose, putting it under your left shoulder strap.

• Turn right and put the left shoulder strap onto your body (pay attention to the drysuit outlet valve).

• Move your hips and shoulders as far to the left as possible.

• Move your right hand back along your hip and slide it underneath the right shoulder strap.

• Use the techniques you learned in the previous issue of Perfect Diver to easily attach your crotch strap and hip strap.

ACADEMY

reMovinG your Modular riG

• Clip your main regulator into the right d-ring.

• Remove the long hose and back-up regulator from your neck (if that's your setup)

• Disconnect the drysuit hose.

• Undo the waist strap and remove the crotch strap.

• Remove the right shoulder strap, using a double-ender, back-up light or the main regulator clipped into the right d-ring to help you.

• Hold the left shoulder strap along with the inflator with your right hand and raise slightly

• Turning to the left, free your left hand from the shoulder strap (pay attention to the drysuit outlet valve).

use the following to assist you when removing your rig

• double-ender

• back-up light

• main regulator attached to the d-ring

e mergency response preparation training (putting on/removing your rig in the water)

1. Putting your rig on and removing it without assistance

• Place the rig firmly on a surface (secure it against toppling over)

• Repeat the procedure for putting on and removing your rig twenty times, making sure that your movements are slow and precise – do this while wearing comfortable clothing

• Put on your gloves and do another 20

• Remove your gloves and wear your full diving suits – now do another 20

• Add gloves on top of that and do no less than 20 repetitions

• Measure the time you need to both put your rig on and remove it (always put your rig on to the very end,

so that all you need to get into the water are your mask and fins.

2. Practice in the water

• practice the above exercises while chest-deep in water (wear your fins for safety)

• if possible, do the first set without your gloves

• do the next sets with your full gear

training with an advanced partner

• Hone your rig wearing and removing skills in a team

• When you no longer have any trouble with the above exercises, move to deeper water (where you can't reach the bottom)

s PECIA l E d I t I o N

technical note for training Without bottoM contact

Before removing your hand from the right shoulder strap, release some gas from your wing and then lean to the right. Once your hand is free from the harness, reach for the inflator and inflate your rig, turning to the left at the same time. Your rig will just "remove itself" 

• Wear and remove your rigs in turns – one person does the exercise while the other gives them advice/supports them

• Once you have no problems with wearing and removing your rigs on your own, move over to the next stage, back in chest-deep water: partner lies relaxed on the water surface

• Slowly, step-by-step, remove your partner's equipment – during this time your partner will be guiding you through the individual stages, but does not assist you

• Help your partner put his rig back on and change roles

• Train until you have this important skill fully covered

All went well?

Plan your next training session at a place where you can't reach the bottom.

partner lies relaxed on the water surface

• Remove your buddy's rig with highly precise movements, all the time paying attention to where their face is – to make it clear, it should be above the water (make sure that the rig has positive buoyancy before you remove it completely)

• Take turns with this exercise

caution!

Your emergency response preparation training only looks simple. Appearances might be deceiving, as this is hard, exhausting work. Professional emergency responders spend a lot of time doing this. Make sure that you are in good physical shape and adjust the number of repetitions in your sets not to deteriorate your technique (the proposed 20 repetitions are usual for professionals' training).

Always work in a team when training in the water. Stop your training when you feel fatigue.

each training done with a high number of repetitions benefits you in critical situations.

Wearing and removing your rig are some of the basic emergency response techniques. in many cases these are only trained in your basic course and perhaps later during your rescue course. getting ready for critical situations first in a comfortable setting is a good idea.

train these techniques whenever you have the chance to be confident about your abilities. ask your instructor to help you extend your training.

` do you want to learn how to clip bolt snaps when diving in very low temperatures? Would you like an individual fit for the d-rings in your harness?

` Want to adjust your emergency response training to the types of dives you're doing?

` a bonus for our perfect diver readers: arrange your free tecline academy seminar – increase the comfort and safety of your dives!

Photo Krzysztof Niecko

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