Perfect Diver Magazine issue 20 by perfectdiver

diving

No. 20 2(20)/2022

freediving

passion

knowledge

GALAPAGOS

The republic of animals

MARCH/APRIL

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the foreword

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

Editor-in-Chief

arth – land and water, freedom and life are gifts that should never be destroyed. Unfortunately, there is an ongoing war in Europe. Our aspiration, as nations and individuals, should be peace. Unquestionably.

Since we started publishing our magazine, we have paid great attention to the planet and ecology. We show its natural beauty, and each of you can participate in this. You can plan your own escapade or embark on an e-trip with us.

Before you is the 20th issue of our magazine. I would like to thank the authors of texts and photographs for their engagement and invite you to a real underwater feast. We open with a colourful and interesting text by Ania Sołoducha about the Galapagos. In the last issue she introduced us to the climate of Ecuador, now she moves on to underwater details, and we all know that everyone would like to visit the Galapagos in person. Anyway, even without looking inside – the cover alone, designed by Łukasz Metrycki – arouses curiosity. Dragons really do exist, and the ones on the cover can swim and dive. Next, we have the picturesque story of a safari through the Red Sea in Egypt. It is about space, the sea and... See for yourself what Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz has written this time. This issue introduces new authors: Krzysztof Brudkowski describing the Dominican Republic, Joanna Wyrebek (with her colleagues) with the text The Cavettes, Aleksandra Łysek – in relation to the recent text by Wojtek A. Filip on women. There is something for wreck enthusiasts. Kurt Storms talks about the largest wreck in European waters, in Arenzano, Italy. A very interesting and substantive article by Jakub Banasiak about orcas can also be found in this issue, as well as something about long-tailed ducks, turtles, and the valves that every diver must use. Don't forget to check the ads! The list of companies where you can get 15% discount with the code: perfectdiver has been extended! Among them is FOFU – and more about it is in our conversation with Marek Kucharz. You are cordially invited!

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

table of contents

TRAVELS 12 Galapagos.The republic of animals 22 Far south 28 Is it worth diving in the Caribbean Sea?

PLANET EARTH 33 Green and hawksbill. Endangered species of turtles of the Red Sea

36 Killer whales. Killers, victims, motives and mysteries 60 Long-tailed ducks. Cold-loving divers

OUR CONVERSATION 44 For Ocean From Us. About eco glasses talks Marek Kucharz

50 UNDERWATER INSPIRATIONS 49 ”Reef” on canvas

UNDER THE CEILING 50 The Cavettes

KNOWLEDGE 62 A woman’s view on diving

Publisher PERFECT DIVER WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

WRECKS

ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com

54 Trip Report. Amoco Milford Haven Wreck,

ISSN 2545-3319

Arenzano, Italy

editor in chief

Wojciech Zgoła

underwater archaeology

Mateusz Popek

photographer

Karolina Sztaba

Hubert Reiss

marketing

english language translators

Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak Reddo Translations Sp. z o.o. Piotr Witek

legal care graphic design and composition

Lawyer Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

the magazine was folded with typefaces

Montserrat (Julieta Ulanovsky) Open Sans (Ascender Fonts) Noto Serif, Noto Sans (Google)

printing

Wieland Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Poznań, www.wieland.com.pl

distribution

dive centers, online store

preorder@perfectdiver.com

TIPS & CURIOSITIES 66 Scuba cylinder valves: introduction and their impact on a diver’s actions

cover photo

Łukasz Metrycki place

Galapagos model

Marine iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus)

www.perfectdiver.com

The Editorial Office does not return unsolicited materials, is not responsible for the content of advertisements and reserves the right to shorten, edit, title the submitted texts and select illustrative materials. Reprinting of articles or parts thereof, copying only with the consent of the Editorial Board. Editors are not responsible for the form and content of advertisements.

If you like this issue, donate any amount! Donation is voluntary. PayPal.Me/perfectdiver PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

editorial team

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

HUBERT REISS

He often repeats that he travels by diving and that is his motto. In 1985

An IT specialist by profession, but a flesh and blood salesman who is not

he obtained a yacht sailor's license, and only in 2006 began to dive. In the

afraid of any job. Diving has always been my big dream. At the beginning

following years he improved his skills by obtaining the Dive Master degree.

it was supposed to be a challenge, a short episode but it turned out to be

He completed nearly 650 dives in various climatic conditions. Since 2007, he

a passion for the end of the world and one day longer. Under water I react

has been taking photographs underwater, and since 2008 he has also been

and rest. As a Divemaster, sidemount Razor diver, and recently also a pho-

filming. As an independent journalist, he published dozens of articles, mainly

tographer, I realize my dreams by admiring and immortalizing the beauty of

in journals dedicated to diving, but not only. Co-author of photo exhibitions in

the underwater world. "Passion breeds professionalism, professionalism gives

Poland and abroad. He is passionate about and propagator of diving.

quality, and quality is a luxury in life. Nowadays, especially..."

Since 2008 he has been running his own website www.dive-adventure.eu. On the basis of extensive experience, in August 2018 he created the new Perfect Diver Magazine.

MATEUSZ POPEK

KAROLA TAKES PHOTOS

”My passion, work and life are under water.” He has been diving since 2009.

Karolina Sztaba, and professionally Karola Takes Photos, is a photographer

Since 2008, he's walking in caves. Underwater archeologist by education.

by education and passion. She is currently working at the Trawangan Dive

He participated in numerous projects in Poland and abroad. He has been

Center on a tiny island in Indonesia – Gili Trawangan, where she moved to

engaged in professional diving since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the quali-

live four years ago. She photographs above and below the water. In addition,

fications of a 2nd class diver. Has experience in underwater work both at

she creates photographic projects against littering the oceans and polluting

sea and inland. Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, especially in the

our planet with plastic ("Trapped", "Trashion"). She cooperates with NGO or-

mountains, and since 2014 he is a diving instructor CMAS M1. In June 2020,

ganizations dealing with environmental protection and actively participates

he obtained a doctoral degree in underwater archeology.

in pro-ecological actions (coral protection, coral planting, cleaning the world, protection of endangered species). She is also the official photographer of Ocean Mimic – a brand that creates swimwear and surfwear from rubbish collected on the beaches of Bali. She cooperated with many brands of diving equipment for which she created advertising campaigns. In 2019, she became the ambassador of the Polish company Tecline. She has been a technical diver for two years.

constant cooperation

WOJCIECH A. FILIP

ANNA SOŁODUCHA

LAURA KAZIMIERSKA

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He

A graduate of Geography faculty at the University

Laura Kazimierska is currently working as PADI

has been diving for over 30 years, including over

of Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with a per-

Course Director at TrawanganDive Center on the

20 years as a technical diver. He is a professional

manent smile on her lips! It was probably Destiny

Indonesian island of Gili Trawangan. Founder of

with great theoretical and practical knowledge. He

that led her to Activtour… and she's been here

the Divemastergilis portal.

is an instructor of many federations: GUE Instruc-

on permanent basis. She passionately fulfils the

www.divemastergilis.com @divemastergilis

tor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS PADI, EFR,

dreams of many, organizing diving trips around the

For over 7 years she has lived and discovered the

TMX Gas Blender. He participated in many diving

world, and she has already been diving for more

underwater world of Indonesia. She is not only an

projects and conferences as a leader, explorer,

than half of her life. Each year she explores a dif-

avid technical diver, but also the face of the Planet

originator or lecturer. These included the Britan-

ferent ‘piece of the ocean’, pinning another pin to

Heroes platform and the ambassador of the Ocean

nic Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave Scientific

her diving world map. In winter she changes fins

Mimic brand. She actively contributes to the pro-

Project on Croatia caves, GROM Expedition in

into her beloved skis and gets away into the Alps.

motion of the protection of corals and the natural

Narvik, Tuna Mine Deep Dive, Glavas Cave in Croa-

A recipe for life? ”The only a dead trunk flows with

environment of fish and marine animals by taking

tia, NOA-MARINE. Professionally, he is a technical

the current – the explorer's canoe flows up the river!”

part in scientific projects, campaigns against ocean

director at TecLine in Scubatech, and a director of

anna@activtour.pl

littering and cooperating with NGOs in Indonesia.

training at TecLine Academy.

activtour.pl; travel.activtour.pl; 2bieguny.com

@laura_kazi

JAKUB DEGEE

MICHAL ČERNÝ

AGATA TUROWICZ-CYBULA

Polish photographer, winner of awards and dis-

"Wet photos" – He has photographed since he

Since I was a child, I had dreamed of becoming

tinctions in world underwater photography com-

remembers. After several years of experience as

a marine biologist and I managed to fulfill that

petitions, has already dived all over the world: with

a diver, he wanted to keep memories of underwa-

dream. I did a degree in oceanography, where

sharks and whales in South Africa, with orcs be-

ter dives. He bought his first compact camera with

I recently started my doctoral studies. My diving

hind the Arctic Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds

an underwater housing. Over time, however, the

adventure began when I was 12 years old. I love

of hammerhead sharks and humpback whales in

desire to have the best photo began to dominate,

observing the underwater life up close and I try to

the Tonga Islands. He participates in specialist

which was not quite possible with the compact

show other divers how fascinating the underwa-

photographic workshops. He has been diving for

he used. That's why he switched to the Olympus

ter, Baltic creatures are.

27 years, he started at the age of 12 – as soon as

PEN E-PL 5 reflex camera, which allows the use of

it was formally possible. He was the first in the

several different lenses. He uses a combination

world to use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for

of underwater flashes and lights. He focuses on

underwater macro photography. Recently, in the

wildlife photography, not arrangement. He photo-

remote Chincorro archipelago on the border be-

graphs in fresh domestic waters as well as in the

tween Mexico and Belize, he did it again, taking

seas and oceans of the world.

a successful attempt to photograph the eye of

He has already won numerous awards at Czech

a crocodile with a macro lens with an additional

and foreign photography competitions. More

magnifying lens, which is the world's largest photo

photos can be found on his website, where you

of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of

can also buy them not only as photos, but also as

pixel count, print size, quality).

photos printed on canvas or on another medium. www.mokrefotky.cz www.facebook.com/MichalCernyPhotography www.instagram.com/michalcerny_photography/

constant cooperation

WOJCIECH JAROSZ

AGNIESZKA KALSKA

BARTOSZ PSZCZÓŁKOWSKI

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Acad-

”I can't imagine living without water, where in a free

That's my name and I come from Poznań. I have

emy of Physical Education (coaching specializa-

body I experience freedom of the spirit.”

been associated with water practically from birth

tion – handball) and the University of A.Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biology). He connected his professional life with this first university trying to influence the direction of development of future professionals on the one hand, and on the other planning and implement-

• founder of the first freediving and swimming school in Poland – FREEBODY, • Apnea Academia International and PADI Master Freediver freediving instructor, • world record holder in freediving (DYN 253 m),

and with diving since I learned to walk. My grandfather instilled my passion for the underwater world, a CMAS*** instructor taking me to the lakes at any free time. I obtained my first qualifications in 1996. A year later I went to Croatia and literally went crazy at the sight of blue wa-

ing research, pushing laboriously in the right di-

• record holder and Polish champion, member

ter, octopus and colorful fish;) I bought my first

rection of the stroller called science. In his free

of the national team in freediving 2013–2019,

underwater camera – Olympus 5060 and started

time he spends his time actively – his main pas-

• winner of the World Championships in freed-

the adventure with underwater photography. I ac-

sions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill

iving 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018,

quired my diving experience in the Canary Islands,

skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational

• multimedalist of the Polish Championships

Sardinia, Norway, Maldives and in Polish lakes.

diving and many other activities, as well as pho-

and a member of the national team in swim-

I am currently a Padi and ESA instructor, I train

tography, mainly nature.

ming in the years 1998–2003,

diving enthusiasts in Europe and pass my passion

• passionate about freediving and swimming.

on to others. I invite all lovers of the underwater world and photography to Beediver (FB) – see you soon.

SYLWIA KOSMALSKA-JURIEWICZ

IRENA KOSOWSKA

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature.

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Polska,

A graduate of journalism and a lover of good liter-

diving and first aid instructor, technical diver and

ature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes

cave diver. In love with all flooded, dark, cold,

a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian.

tight places and invariably from the beginning

Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and

of the diving route – in the Baltic. Implementing

their protection are especially close to her heart.

the DAN mission, he conducts a series of lectures

She writes about the subject in numerous articles

”Dive safely” and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field

and on her blog www.divingandtravel.pl. She be-

research of divers for scientific purposes.

gan her adventure with diving fifteen years ago by total coincidence. Today she is a Divemaster, she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 continents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is a co-founder.

our authors

JAKUB BANASIAK

KLAUDYNA BRZOSTOWSKA

KURT STORMS

JOANNA WYREBEK

Diver from 2008. Passionate of the

PADI diving instructor and videog-

Belgium Military, underwater cave

Joanna (Jojo) got into diving later in

Red Sea and pelagic ocean preda-

rapher. She spends most of his

explorer and active technical/ cave/

life (in 2014) but quickly fell in love

tors. Devoted to the idea of protect-

time in the water documenting

rebreather diving instructor for

and decided to share that passion

ing dolphins, sharks and whales. He

a fascinating underwater world.

IANTD. He started his diving ca-

with others by becoming an instruc-

dives mainly where you can meet

She graduated from the Academy

reer in Egypt on vacation, and his

tor a couple of years later...

these animals and monitor the lev-

of Fine Arts in the field of Fashion

passion continues. Kurt is also the

...more

el of their well-being. Member of

Design in Łódź and Film studies at

founder and CEO of Descent Techni-

page 50.

Dolphinaria-Free Europe Coalition,

the Adam Mickiewicz University in

cal Diving.

volunteer at Tethys Research Insti-

Poznań, trained as a tailor, and with

He dives on several CCRs such as

tute and Cetacean Research & Rescue

a love of nature and a large dose of

AP, SF2, Divesoft Liberty SM. Kurt is

Unit, associate of Marine Connection.

adrenaline. She loves everything

involved in the creation of the docu-

For 10 years he has been involved

related to water. Her diving adven-

ment about the new salt mine in Bel-

in research on wild dolphin popu-

ture began with a backpacking trip

gium (Laplet). This project was fea-

lations and audits dolphinariums.

in 2016. During her stay in Thailand

tured in the news on Nationale TV.

Together with the team ”NO! For

she dived for the first time and

Privately, Kurt's true passion is

the Dolphinarium” he prevents dol-

from then on she got hooked on at

deep cave diving. His wife (Caroline)

phins from captivity and promotes

this sport. Spending the last years

shares her husband's passions and

knowledge about dolphin therapy

and most of her days under water,

also dives in caves. In his free time,

unsaid or concealed by centers

teaching and showing the beauty of

he visits Belgian slate mines, and

which make money on this form of

the underwater world in Asia, she

when he is not exploring, he takes

animal therapy.

believes that diving means unity –

his camera to document the dives.

article

The

Cavettes,

unity with own mind, nature and unusual creatures. @waterographyk

+48 502 138 403 http://www.deepdivingslesin.pl/ baza-nurkowa-honoratka/

DIVING CENTER DIVING SCHOOL

our authors

MICHAŁ ANTONIUK

KRZYSZTOF BRUDKOWSKI

ALEKSANDRA ŁYSEK

"Sitting at home is the greatest punishment" is my

A legal advisor by profession, trying to help, not

I started diving when I was 11 years old and knew

motto.

win at all costs. A fan of warm climates and blue

immediately that this is what I want to do with

I am an enthusiast of all kinds of activities: diving,

water. He started diving in 2018 as a develop-

my life. I managed to combine business with

motorcycling, cycling, climbing, etc. I have been

ment of his favorite snorkeling. He now plans

pleasure and for five years I have been work-

diving with aqualung for 10 years, 3 of which as

almost every trip to get his fins wet somewhere.

ing in the Nurkersi diving center and the shop

a dive instructor. Overhead environments have

His teenage son Damian is his partner in diving.

szpejownia.com, and recently I am a divemaster.

been my main travel destinations for a long time.

Recently, he has been watching the underwater

On weekends, I change my office work to under-

I fulfill my little dream of being a camera reporter

world through the camera's viewfinder, wanting

water work – swimming with new divers, shows

in an underwater housing looking for thrills and

to preserve fleeting memories. He has reached

them what the underwater world looks like out-

spectacular landscapes. Black drysuit makes me

the Deep Diver level in diving and it probably will

side the course. It is with great pleasure that

look like a very serious technical diver, but those

not end there.

I share my experience, insights and comments

cylinders and colorful bungie rubber inserts

with them. I am also a Tecline regulator service

quickly dispel that illusion ;)

technician and I am an authorized equipment advisor. On a daily basis, I am studying management in the second year.

DIVING CENTER

Głębokie Lake Lubuskie

@bazanurkowaextremedivelubuskie extreme-dive.pl

Rehasport - motor medicine

MAKE AN APPOINTMENT

ONLINE Specialty or name City

Find injury Select the body part in which you feel pain.

www.rehasport.pl PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

travels

Galapagos THE REPUBLIC OF ANIMALS Text ANNA SOŁODUCHA Land photos JAROSŁAW GOŁEMBIEWSKI Underwater photos ŁUKASZ METRYCKI

Man! Dive under the water. If the beauty you see does not thrill you – then you will see nothing more interesting in your life.

travels

TONS OF SHARKS. HAMMERHEAD SHARKS. Not a few, or a dozen, to be admired for a few minutes, usually at great depth. This was the "water march" of the rulers of this land, the republic of animals. Several dozens of them were swimming over our heads for 20–30 minutes, in fact, until we had to continue diving and leave this spectacle. It was pure magic, a phenomenon. 2-3-meter-long hammerheads were swimming endlessly in front of us and I...? I felt accomplished. 1000 km from the Ecuadorian mainland, 1600 km from Panama and 960 km from Cocos Island lie the Enchanted Islands.

In the 16th century, a fleeing ship from Peru under the comit down comfortably. Place your hands between the

mand of Diego de Rivadeneira was carried away by currents

stones or sit on the edge of the rocks as if you were

near the equator. The sailors could see the islands, but due

going to fish. Alternating cold and warm currents caress

to the strong current and wind, they could not approach any

your face, the only part of your body exposed to the "precious

of them. This phenomenon made the islands seem to move

Pacific". Water temperature... nobody said it would be easy.

away, as if they were "enchanted". Yes, these were the Gala-

The visibility – well, it has been better. You sit still, contemplat-

pagos Islands...

ing. You enjoy the silence. You glance at your dive partners

What we see is just the tip of a gigantic shield volcano

playfully attached to the rocks, then at the computer and the

rising 10,000 meters from the ocean floor, formed solely of

manometer. Theoretically, you know what to expect. But in

basalt. About 5 million years ago, a series of volcanic erup-

practice, as we (divers) know, things can be different. And

tions created a chain of islands. The islands are located on

then happens what you are waiting for, what I was waiting for

so-called hotspots, from which magma flows to form under-

10 years. What I read, wrote, told while organizing diving trips.

water volcanoes that grow larger with each eruption. From

Pictures that I knew by heart from various websites. What

the merging of their foothills, an underwater platform was

was my dream, so distant and for many years – unattainable.

formed – the Galapagos Platform. Some volcanoes have ris-

What 20 years ago, completing my first OWD course – I did

en out of the water to form islands and islets, and the most

not even dream about.

important islands in the archipelago include Isabela (which

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

travels

is an exception because it is formed by 6 volcanoes!), San

are not afraid of humans, even though they have made their

Cristobal, Fenrnandina, Santa Cruz, Floreana, San Salvador,

presence felt during their relatively short stay on the islands.

13 medium-sized islands and 215 small islands. The uplifting

Sea lions and Galápagos fur seals were killed for their furs,

process constantly continues due to the Nazca Plate sliding

giant turtles that can live for months without food and drink

under the South American and Cocos Plates. The archipela-

were sent as food to whalers and pirates, and gentle iguanas

go lies at their junction – the node of the triple Galapagos.

were hunted with sticks. The days of killing have thankfully

Interestingly – as a result of tectonic movements, the islands

passed into history. Strict restrictions to ensure that nothing

are moving in a north-easterly direction at the rate of 7 cm

that could disrupt the delicate balance enters the islands be-

per year! The latest eruptions took place in 2018 – the Sierra

gin at the airports on San Cristobal Island and Baltra Island.

Negra volcano on Isabela (this is one of the widest craters

So, to get to this unique place – we must first get to Ecuador,

on Earth, 10 km in diameter!), and in 2021 – on Wolf Island,

to the city of Quito (the capital) or to Guayaquil. If we are

which is also the highest peak of the Galapagos (1707 m).

not planning to stay in Ecuador longer than one day, I rec-

Galapagos is a special place. 97% of the archipelago is cov-

ommend a flight to Guayaquil. Quito is located at an altitude

ered by the National Park status (since 1959) and in 1978, the

of 2,800 m, which unfortunately causes altitude sickness in

islands were entered into the UNESCO list. In 2007, the archi-

most travellers. If we combine this with diving – we may not

pelago was placed on the List of World Heritage in Danger,

feel very comfortable on our dream trip. If, however, we plan

but the immense work that has been put into conservation

to visit the land part of Ecuador – you can safely choose the

programs is still having the desired effect. What immediately

capital as a stop on the trip, before departing for the Galapa-

draws your attention upon arrival is the fact that the animals

gos. Before the flight, however, travellers must fill out a dec-

travels

laration with information on how much time they will spend in the Galapagos and whether they have plants, animals, or tourist equipment in their luggage. The contents of suitcases are very carefully checked – after all, in the sleeping bag or in the soles of trekking boots there may be seeds of invasive plants. It is mandatory to pay the entry fee to the Galapagos National Park in the amount of 100 USD/person and purchase a tourist card. The uniqueness of this place manifests itself from the moment of arrival. The airport on Baltra Island, which is separated from Santa Cruz Island by the Itabaca Channel – was the first airport in the world to be certified as having zero CO2 emissions! It is the first of its kind to be fully powered by renewable energy. The airport, located on a small, uninhabited island, gets its energy from solar panels, which cover 35% of its energy needs. The remaining 65% is provided by wind turbines. Recycled materials, such as steel pipes from the oil industry, were used to build the facility. Because of the low rainfall in Baltra, the water used at the airport comes from a natural desalination process carried out by plants, which is handled by a unit called Ecogal. The airport also uses natural lighting and underground air ducts to provide air conditioning for the premises. The island itself (Baltra) is formed by the uplift of undersea lava flows. It is dry, overgrown by the saltbush, prickly pear, and the famous Palo Santo trees. It is also interesting to note that during World War II, a U.S. Air Force base was established there to protect the Panama Canal. After the end of World War II, the base was handed over to the Ecuadorians who dismantled much of the buildings, although the outlines of their foundations are still visible from the air. Why is it that in the Galapagos, no one pays attention to wild animals in the urban centres? The answer is simple. There are a lot more of them in the

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

travels The islands are at the intersection of 7 major ocean currents which makes the local marine life is unique.

water! The Galapagos is still one of the most active volcanic

for the faint-hearted; the water can be icy, is rarely calm, and

regions in the world, which along with its isolated location

horizontal and vertical currents – ascending or descending

creates a unique marine fauna environment. The islands are

– happen basically on every dive. For this reason, each diver

at the intersection of 7 major ocean currents which makes

is given a GPS locator (Nautilus Marine Rescue GPS) for the

the local marine life is unique. The biggest influence on the

duration of the diving safari which, after an activation proce-

ecosystem is the Equatorial Current (Cromwell) which brings

dure, emits a signal that is received at a distance of 55 km by

cool water masses from the west, the warm Panama Current

all boats using the automatic identification system (AIS). There

bathes the archipelago from the northeast and the cool Peru

are significant climatic changes between summer and winter.

Current (Humboldt) brings "Garúa" or cold air masses, forming

The warmest months are from December to May, when the

a cloud cap over the islands. Each attracts different species,

weather can be considered subtropical, or even tropical in

creating a rare mix of tropical, subtropical, and temperate ma-

the north. From June to December is the cold season, during

rine life. Diving in the Galapagos is not for everyone. Water

which you can witness unusual anomalies such as huge clouds

in this place can be turbid, and currents very strong. Diving

of fog around Roca Roddonda. All of this is mixed together

here does not resemble diving in tropical waters in a variety of

by global climate change, the unpredictable effects of chang-

the most popular choice for divers. Drift diving in the depths

ing ocean currents and the fact that each island has its own

is often prohibited. Although it seems indisputable to pre-

microclimate. What attracts divers from around the world,

pare yourself reef hooks – diving guides at the first briefing

however, is the possibility (and actually a guarantee!) to see

strongly advise against taking them underwater. Here we will

large representatives of marine species: hammerhead sharks,

not find the edge of the reef where we can hang on the hook

Galapagos sharks, silky sharks, barracudas, manta rays, igua-

and levitate in the water to watch the underwater spectacle.

nas, or sea lions! The best time to see the largest animals is

Besides, being attached to a hook a few meters above the

in winter – when they are attracted to cooler waters. Whale

bottom – sharks simply won't come up to us. This is not a dive

sharks begin to appear in late May when the water tempera-

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ture drops to about 15°C. When the temperature warms up

body temperature in a way that allows them to warm up even

to 27°C – we have a chance to meet manta rays. However, no

seven times faster than they cool down. So, they swim up and

matter what time of year you arrive in the Galapagos, thermo-

down several times a day, spend a while at the surface, and

clines are a serious problem. One moment you’re swimming

then return to the depths to continue a long hunt. The sec-

in 25°C, and the next second it drops to... 12 degrees! I am

ond reason for staying close to the water surface is to be able

not joking ;) It also has a terrible effect on visibility, so it's hard

to get rid of parasites. The body of a sunfish is not covered

to predict what time is the best to go. However, it is commonly

with scales, but with a thick and flexible skin, which is why

believed that the best time is when the seasons change, so

it is so often attacked by parasites, even up to 40 different

November-December, and April-June.

kinds. Some species of birds, including albatrosses, have been observed to peck and then eat parasites from their skin, thus

LET'S DIVE!

cleaning it. The cleansing process takes place when the sunfish

The dive safari gives you the opportunity to explore the dive

"lays down" on the surface of the water. It is also commonly

sites located at the different islands of the archipelago. We dive

said that these strange fish swim weakly and slowly, but this

off the island of Santa Cruz, at the site of Punta Carrión. The

is not true – they move well ;) Very important in the Galapagos

first impression – cold! However, after a while I stop thinking

(and not only) is not to swim up to the animals, and even more

about it completely, because my eyes see mola mola, which in

so to the mola mola. The guides explain that if we want to be

Latin means "millstone" and is supposed to describe its shape.

close to them – we should not swim or move – they will come

It is the largest bony fish in the world! This several-metre-long

to us. And this is exactly what happened  Yet how quick-

fish weighs up to two tonnes. Its brain is the size of a pea-

ly we found an exception to the rule... Sea lions (Galápagos

nut. From the depth of up to 200 m, where the temperature

sea lions) are another species we had the opportunity to see

falls below 12°C, the sunfish come to the water surface sever-

in this unique place. These amazing acrobats even demand

al times a day. This is because the sunfish can regulate their

to be played with – and here, contrary to everything we had

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previously stated – we have to be active, play with them and

in such a way that entering the water on its western shore is

show interest ;) Galápagos sea lions are an endemic species.

like stepping into an ice bath. The cold Cromwell Current flows

They delight in performing various acrobatic feats, which are

around it from the west, striking the islands of Isabella and

an incredible attraction for divers. Their flexible body allows

Fernandina before heading north to Cape Marshall and Roca

them to turn, twist and dodge quickly. When the sea lions have

Rodonda. Combined with the fact that the volcanoes in this

finished playing, they look away from the diver as if waiting for

region are still active, this creates another mini ecosystem, as

applause, or they start imitating him by blowing bubbles. They

we find when diving off both of the above islands. Squeezed

also like to play with various marine flora and fauna, such as

between rocks, boulders, or chasms we find moray eels – in

starfish or red-lipped batfish (but more on that later), they may

numbers so huge that we meet several of them on basically

even be tempted by a diver's fin! However, be wary of male sea

every dive. This is the first dive site where within a week I saw

lions protecting their territory and harem. The female sea lions

an incredible number of different species of moray eels, of-

that we met many times on the dives, apart from playing with

ten in shimmering yellow and gold colours, such as palenose

us – also played with each other. These were such incredibly

moray, jewel moray, whitemouth moray, yellow-edged mo-

close and charming encounters that will remain in our mem-

ray, mosaic moray or dark-skinned species such as panamic

ories for a long time.

green moray, fine-spotted moray, and hourglass moray. They

Isabela, the largest island in the seahorse-shaped archipel-

are 2–3 m long and hide only their heads in the rocks, while

ago, forms a barrier between the Pacific Ocean and the other

the rest of their body remains in plain sight. Do they think we

Galapagos islands. Through its location, it divides the currents

cannot see them? ;)

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The Galapagos is a Mecca for endemic species. During one dive, you can see several species of marine fauna which you have never seen before in your life.

The Galapagos is a Mecca for endemic species. During one dive, you can see several species of marine fauna which you have never seen before in your life. A perfect example is the Galapagos bullhead shark, also known as the Peruvian horn shark. The large head, upturned snout and dark spots on the grey-brown skin give this fish the appearance of a bizarre, skinny hybrid of a leopard and a pig ;) Relatively large pectoral fins add to its distinctive appearance and allow this shark to... crawl on the ocean floor!!! All these attributes may make it seem dangerous, but beware – its maximum body length is only 105 cm! It is small and completely harmless. The Galapagos bullhead shark has two types of teeth. The small front teeth are hooked for grabbing prey such as crabs, while the side teeth are flat, ideal for crushing and grinding shells. The two small dorsal fins have a sharp spine that helps to deter predators. However, this does not prevent the species from often being eaten by the much larger, aggressive tiger shark.

to its pouted, almost fluorescent red lips and bulging eyes.

This shark resides on sandy bottoms, near rocks – and that's

This animal is additionally equipped with a special lure for bait

where we encountered it!

placed in front of its eyes. It grows out of the dorsal fin and re-

The strangest creature I encountered in the Galapagos was

leases special chemicals. Instead of swimming, this fish usually

a fish called red-lipped batfish. This creature lives from a few

moves awkwardly along the seabed using its fins, which have

metres to 76 metres deep, reaches a maximum length of about

special tabs and look just like limbs. Although this fish looks

25 cm and can be found in the waters around the Galapagos

downright ghastly, it poses no danger to humans. In addition,

Islands and in Peru. The red-lipped batfish looks like an elderly

various other species of fish are very common here – variously

lady, an aristocrat, or an unfulfilled actress who has had her

coloured frogfish, pufferfish, scorpionfish, or stingrays such as

five minutes but is still trying to attract attention by wearing

the Peruvian torpedo ray. The Galapagos can surprise you. Ev-

strong make-up. The second association is as if she just drank

ery dive, of which there were four in one day, we encountered

the blood of her victim and did not wipe her mouth ;) All thanks

a whole lot of fantastic creatures. The kinds we really dreamed

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of seeing. During one of the dives, just after playing with the sea lions, we saw a "projectile" falling into the water. This projectile was a cormorant. A flightless cormorant, which has completely lost the ability to fly, is very clumsy on land, but is a great swimmer! There are only 800 pairs in the world, so if you see one, you are very lucky! The bird drops into the water like a stone, chases its prey and rushes with it to the surface to satisfy its hunger on land. The sight was so surreal that we felt like we were on a film set. Reptiles occupy one of the most important places in the underwater world of the Galapagos. The most famous endemic species is the marine iguana studied by the renowned Charles Darwin. It is the only lizard in the world with the unique ability to feed in the sea – it feeds on food found in the seabed.

If you're lucky, you can see these exotic creatures inhabiting the volcanic rocky coastline, basking in the sun near the islands of Punta Espinosa or Fernandina during the warm afternoon hours. The most fun, however, is seeing them dive and eat the algae that grows on the underwater rocks. Dives with iguanas are very shallow – the sun's rays cut through the surface of the water beautifully illuminating the marine iguanas. The surface waves and currents don't make it easy for us to observe these unusual animals, but the whole phenomenon is so mesmerising that we stay with them for a whole hour. Interestingly, they have the ability to slow their heart rate and stay underwater for about 60 minutes! The reptiles are often compared to dragons, when they expel clouds of steam from their nostrils, getting rid of excess salt, which looks really threatening... Well – the iguana, after all, is the royal lady of this phenomenal land... We spent our days mostly underwater, as it happens during a diving safari. However, one afternoon we went on an excursion, conquering Bartolomé Hill. The volcanic black sand island is a great stop on the journey between the central and western islands of the Archipelago and what cannot yet be seen on the horizon. On the island, we were greeted by sea lions lounging in the sun, completely uninterested in the arriving guests. We climbed up the path prepared for tourists. The view we saw is probably the most characteristic landscape of the Galapagos, often seen on the Internet, or decorating the illustrations of tourist guidebooks. In a word – breathtaking. An expedition to the Galapagos is a journey off the beaten track, to places where nature takes the spotlight. Under water we have already seen a whole range of creatures unique to the world. However, what I was looking forward to the most in the world was somewhere far away, where sight does not reach. Somewhere in the distance, two islands were waiting for us, without which diving in Galapagos would not make sense – Wolf and Darwin... To be continued…

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Far south Text SYLWIA KOSMALSKA-JURIEWICZ

Photos ADRIAN JURIEWICZ

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Every place you visit becomes, in a sense, a part of you, an important part of your extraordinary story. You won't know what it is really like on a dive safari until you stand on the boat yourself and go on a journey in unknown waters...

delicate light penetrates the blind and falls with all its power through a rectangular window into the cabin number 5. I watch through my sleepy, slightly tilted

eyelids, as the rays of the morning sun dance on my sheets. Yesterday night late we arrived at the Port of Ghalib in Mars Alam in the south-eastern part of Egypt, from where today after breakfast we set sail on a week-long dive safari on the Red Sea. We took the ST. JOHN’S ROUTE, which offers a unique variety, beautiful caves, phenomenal canyons, a rich coral reef. We sail to the far south, which is ideal in terms of difficulty for both advanced divers and those who are just starting their adventure with diving. The Grand Sea Serpent is a 45 meters long, new and very comfortable boat that a few months ago set sail on her first voyage.

We do the first two dives in the vicinity of Mars Alam, ex-

I hear the sound of a bell, which shyly comes from the

actly 17 km from the shores of SHAAB MARS ALAM (here we

upper deck, and after a while a dynamic knock at the cabin

do a check dive) and SHAAB SHARM, these two locations teem

door. It is a message from the crew that there is half an hour

with marine life, and a beautiful coral reef, rising straight from

left till the morning, organisational briefing. Such wake-up

the sandy bottom. After jumping into the water, I immediately

calls will be repeated every day during the whole cruise. I take

thanked inwardly my friend who had advised me to take a dry

a quick shower with a view of the sea and after a while I am

suit with me. Both during the whole dive and after leaving the

ready to happily enter the last day of the old year. After break-

water, I feel thermal comfort, in contrast to some people who

fast, we screw together the diving equipment, choose ballast

dive in 5 mm foams and cool down significantly in the water.

and hang foams and dry suits on specially designed hangers.

After finishing the second dive, the dining room on the deck

Moments before twelve o'clock the moorings are unhooked,

of the boat changed beyond recognition, it had colourful chains

Grand Sea Serpent sails majestically from the port to the open

and chubby balloons hanging from the ceiling. To our surprise,

sea, swinging slightly to the sides. The weather is favourable,

there was also a Christmas tree decorated with balls and lights.

the air temperature exceeds the pleasant 24°C, and the wa-

On the wall there was a large banner announcing the arrival

ter is 23°C. A gentle wind from the south gently wrinkles the

of the New Year 2022.

surface of the water, from which on the horizon emerge the

We start the New Year's Eve party early with a gala dinner,

dorsal fins of the dolphins. Their appearance always brings

where we appear on time at 8 p.m. dressed in evening outfits.

us a lot of joy. Dolphins are like promises, promises of a suc-

We get Santa hats with the red twinkling inscription: 2022. In

cessful voyage.

excellent company and bubbly moods, we celebrate an unfor-

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gettable time on board a boat moored in the Red Sea under

they emerge from it again. The spiky lionfish poses for a picture

a starry sky. We welcome the New Year with bubbles of cham-

against the background of an orange gorgon, and a dappled

pagne accompanied by the song "I ciebie tez" by Podsiadlo,

moraine carries out its hygienic treatments by inviting to is

wishing each other good wishes. Some people decided to dive

muzzle some cleaner fish so that they can clean its mouth.

under the surface of the water at midnight o'clock to celebrate

Life under the surface of the water flows according to its un-

the arrival of the New Year. A little after midnight, the captain

interrupted rhythm, which only a man can disturb when he or

turned off all the lights on the boat. When the "Egyptian dark-

she forgets for a moment that he or she is only a guest here...

ness" reigned, the sky shone with a million stars, showing the

On the same day we do three more dives, one in GOTTA

Milky Way and numerous constellations. We received a beau-

KABIRA, a place famous for its caves, tunnels and numerous

tiful New Year's gift, the cosmos showed us its beauty in all

clearances in the rocks. We also have two dives (a night dive

its perfection.

included) in DANGER REEF, one of the most beautiful reefs on

The next day, at dawn, we arrived at a place known as HABI-

our route, which is full of anemones.

LI ALI in the area of St. John’s Island, after last night's celebra-

ABU GALAWA SOGHAYR is located twelve kilometres from

tion, there's only one person who apart from us that has woken

Wadi Lahami in the western part of the Fury Shoals. This place

up for a morning dive. We jump into the sea straight from the

is characterised by a very good water transparency, minute

boat and slowly dive under the surface of the water, accompa-

currents and shallow depth, which makes it a very attractive

nied by the rays of the rising sun, which like star swords cross

location for people with little diving experience. At the foot of

crystal clear water. Various corals, including huge orange and

the reef at sixteen meters, resting on the right side lies the

pink gorgons, they grow a steep, rocky wall sinking into the sea.

wreck of a small sailing yacht, which immediately catches our

We sail at a depth of about twenty-five meters, and below us

attention. Its name and date of sinking are unknown. The syn-

appear two large size blacktip sharks. We're going the same

thetic structure was adopted by sea creatures, which settled in

way. It looks like we have gone diving together this morning,

its interior. Based on their growth, marine researchers date the

we have gone on a New Year's dive. I look down, I look at them,

sinking of the yacht to around 1982. It can be accessed, but it is

I like to watch them, watch their beautiful, agile, streamlined

best to see it from the outside because there is very little space

bodies. We swim along the oval wall, millions of red-orange

inside, which may damage the corals. Not only is the wreck

anthias fish surround us from all sides, and when we try to get

a unique attraction of this location, but it is also a beautiful can-

close to them, they hide nimbly in the reef, and after a while

yon whose coral walls split the reef in half. Spotted stingrays

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Life under the surface of the water flows according to its uninterrupted rhythm, which only a man can disturb when he or she forgets for a moment that he or she is only a guest here...

rest on the sandy bottom beneath the corals. When I get close

sanctuary made up by the water, the sea creatures and the

to them, their enormous eyes are staring at me, I'm not coming

light . It is amazing how quickly the sun sets after our ascent,

too close not to scare them off. We swim through the canyon

how it instantly dissolves in the sea, leaving a pink glow in the

slowly, floating, levitating over coral blocks to fully enjoy their

sky for a moment.

beauty. I stay slightly behind, hang motionless, try to grasp and

Mindfulness can be learned, the underwater world is an

embrace the perfection of this place, which delights not only

excellent teacher, it is enough to immerse yourself under the

with its form, but also with the colours and diversity of life. The

surface of the water and allow yourself to be present here and

rays of the setting sun envelop the coral reef with their warm

now in this one moment in which so much is happening. We

orange-yellow glow. I feel like I'm in an underwater temple, the

disappear underwater at a place called ST. JOHAN’S CAVE.

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Once a wise man told me: “The bigger fool you make of yourself, the more interesting you will be for dolphins.”

We jump into the sea from a boat, the water temperature is 24°C, this is the second dive we do that day. Immediately after immersion, we reach the cone-shaped reef. Due to the strong current, for a while we sail just above the bottom along the beautiful reef formations, and after a while we rise higher where the wide entrance to one of two caverns. The opening is wide, but we go in one at a time. The transparency of the water is excellent, the walls of the cave are covered with both soft and hard corals, in which small shoals of fish have hidden. A pair of yellow-coloured Chaetodontidae fishes are watching us closely, we are watching one another for a while. Some creatures, such as crocodile fish or stingrays, rest on the sand in stillness. A bright light penetrates through the cracks and holes in the rocks to the inside of the cave and fills it with luminous streaks, the view is spectacular. We do not use flashlights, it is very bright, we swim slowly so as not to stir up the sandy bottom. Crossing the entire route in the underwater system of caves and tunnels takes us about 30 minutes. After leaving them, we stay underwater, dive over the coral reef, where in a hurry a large moray is searching for shelter in a rock crevice, and a large napoleon is flowing right next to us. After dinner, we get on the zodiac and sail to a place known as SATAYA, which is also called the dolphin house. Snorkelling with them is a unique experience full of interaction and fun. I always thought that if I stayed calm, I'd practically stop moving and breathing and become invisible to dolphins, and I would be able to enjoy their company for longer. Nothing could be more wrong. Once a wise man told me: “The bigger fool you make of

yourself, the more interesting you will be for dolphins.” He was right, dolphins love to fool around, have fun and they are very interested in people, they can enjoy life in a beautiful way. It is this joy that we should learn from them... I am always very happy to return to ABU DABAB, which is the last place where we are diving during our safari. I feel like I'm floating over a huge underwater green pasture where turtles graze. On the one hand, sea grass grows from the sandy bottom, and on the other hand, there are beautiful rock formations covered with a coral reef inhabited by countless species of sea creatures. It is here that you can most often encounter a panicked remora, which in a hurry is looking for its host and stowaway transport. The live shark sucker, because it is also called so, is a unique creature, which is characterised by a streamlined body shape and an unusual appearance of the head, which is slightly flattened on the tip. Between its head and its spine there is a characteristic oval sucker, which resembles the sole of a shoe. Thanks to that body part, remora is attached to large animals such as turtles, sharks or manta rays. It feeds on the leftovers they leave behind. Her presence indicates that there is a large individual nearby, whom she lost for a moment. Like the remora, we also dive in search of turtles, and if we are very lucky, we will also meet a dugong, called a sea cow, which we had the opportunity to see a month ago in this location... During our dive safari, we performed eighteen dives in the most beautiful places that the far south has to offer. Our destinations are Shaab Marsa Alam, Shaab Sharm, Habili Ali, Gota Kebira, Danger Reef, Gota Soraya, Umm Aruk, Claudia, St. John’s Caves, Sataya Sud, Abu Galawa, Elphistone, Abu Dabab 3. Each of these places tells its extraordinary, different story, which can only be known in one way – by going in person to the far south. The warmest greetings in the world  Sylwia

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Is it worth diving in the Caribbean Sea? Text and photos KRZYSZTOF G. BRUDKOWSKI

fine light sand and the stunningly blue and warm water of the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Caribbean Sea on the other side of the island. The whole family was delighted with the pictures found on the Internet of fabulous coastal views of green forests and long beaches. But is it worth diving in the Dominican Republic? The available information showed that underwater life is not as abundant in the Caribbean Sea as in the Red Sea, but on the other hand, scuba diving videos, which

can be found on the popular streaming service, showed that

nations of diving trips such as Egypt, where we have been a few

of his choice in the Bayahibe/Punta Cana area, which was

times recently. At first we chose Zanzibar, but eventually, due

supposed to facilitate the transfer to the diving centre. By the

to the ratio of the price of the entire trip to the length of the

time we left for the Caribbean, we had already set up about

planned stay, we opted for the Dominican Republic, located

where we would be diving. The plan included reefs around

in the eastern part of the island of Haiti. However, we just as-

the island of Catalina with the possibility of beaching on the

sumed that diving would to be an addition to our leisure, not

island and wrecks of St. George and Atlantic Princess. We set

the main purpose of the trip.

prices for 3 diving days covering all the necessary equipment,

esirous of sunshine and warmth, we searched during

On one of the Facebook groups, I found an offer of a Pole

nation for leisure combined with diving. We wanted

who lived for years in the Dominican Republic related to or-

to visit a place which was different from the traditional desti-

ganising dives there. Leszek proposed to stay at the hotel

From our perspective, the Dominican Republic seemed like a paradise with guaranteed weather, beautiful beaches with

we will have something to watch.

the Polish winter of January for an interesting desti-

which was convenient, taking into account the weight limits of the luggage.

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Upon arrival the Dominican Republic delighted us not only with beautiful sunny weather and rich vegetation, but also with the open attitude of its inhabitants, who love music.

We stayed in one of the resorts located on the side of the At-

we were to set off on a motorised catamaran for the first day

lantic Ocean in the area of Punta Cana hotels. Upon arrival the

diving in the Caribbean Sea. We quickly chose the right sizes

Dominican Republic delighted us not only with beautiful sunny

of short foams, fins and jackets, and the rest of the equipment

weather and rich vegetation, but also with the open attitude

was to wait for us on board. Most boats sail off from a small

of its inhabitants, who love music. The holiday was going to be

bay, to which you can walk from the nearby base. The entranc-

great, and diving was supposed to be the icing on the cake.

es to the bay are guarded by a cannon taken from the vessel

The Dominican Republic offers many opportunities

Cara Merchant, captured in the lagoon of Isla Catalina by the

to spend free time in an interesting way. It does not have to be

pirate Captain William Kidd, considered one of the cruelest and

just beaching on wild beaches, that are often only described

bloodiest pirates of the 17th century.

as such in adverts. Some beaches are famous for being shot

There are more than 10 officially accessible dive sites near

in advertisements of a certain known rum. We can confirm

Bayahibe that can be reached by boat in 20-30 minutes. The

that it is worth visiting the Samana Peninsula, considered the

next ones are more distant, like Shark Point, and require an ad-

most pristine part of the country. Many attractions can be en-

ditional fuel charge and a group of divers to form. We started

joyed during such a trip. You can visit the rainforest, admire

our diving adventure on that day from a place called the wall (in

the coastline, see the humpback whales emerging from the

Spanish: la Pared Catalina) near the island Isla Catalina, which

Samana Bay, "hunt" for the best shot of the water they release

next to the aquarium (in Spanish: El Acuario) is considered to be

through their blowhole, or sunbathe on the so-called Backardi

one of the best places to dive in this area, and maybe even in

beach, sipping cold coconut milk or something stronger with

the whole Dominican Republic.

a paper straw.

We were fortunate enough to visit this place when the sky

After a few days of blissful rest we started diving. Leszek

was not covered by clouds (passing clouds were every day

took us from the very gate of our resort to the ScubaFun div-

during our stay), and the water was not disturbed by currents,

ing center in Bayahibe, a former fishing village, from where

so the reef appeared in the most intense colours and there was

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quite a lot of visibility underwater. Here we have access to an

the very beginning. Unfortunately, the tour advertised as an

amazing reef covered with an impressive variety of corals of

opportunity to combine relaxation, all-inclusive beaching and

many colours, shapes and sizes and inhabited by various forms

snorkelling on a fantastic coral reef turned out to be a partial

of marine life. We did not see before such funnel and tubular

misunderstanding. The number of people arriving by various

shapes of massive sponges and colours of marine creatures,

boats from Bayahibe and La Romana, gathered on the narrow

from yellow to purple. We saw fish from the family of puffers

shore of the island, deprives this place of any magic and the op-

and Aulostomidae (Caribbean trumpetfish, in Spanish: la corne-

portunity to relax, and snorkelling in the nearby waters did not

ta), shoals of Haemulidae and a beautiful crab. The entry in

provide an experience similar to those known to us from Egypt.

the logbook could therefore be ended with the note "superb

The next day of diving we changed the wetsuits with short

diving". The second dive of the day was not very deep, and it

sleeves to the ones with long sleeves (my partner even put on

was done in a place called the "aquarium". Also this time it was

two ones). Unfortunately, this procedure, as it was to turn out

a very successful dive, one carried out among colourful reefs, in

later, did not prevent the development of a minor infection,

the water with fantastic visibility to a depth not exceeding 13 m.

which had to be caused by cooling down the body the previous

After we got out of the water, our impressions were as good as

day and winding on the boat that happened during the return

after the first descent. The immensity of aquatic life, the diver-

from diving. The rain that fell us on the way back to Bayahi-

sity and the range of colours made us feel fantastic. Summing

be did not remain without any impact on our health condi-

up the dives, we concluded that despite the good temperature

tion either. When planning dives in the Dominican Republic,

in the water reaching 27 degrees (even at a depth of 25 m), we

you should take into account periodic cloudiness and fleeting,

did not feel comfortable diving in short sleeve wetsuits.

short-term precipitation, even if they are to take place in the dry

The day was supposed to end on a beach, on the very is-

season, which prevails at the beginning of the calendar year.

land of Catalina, advertised as a place famous for beautiful

Two more dives were to take place on the reefs closer

beaches, full of dazzling white, fine sand and palm trees. My

to Bayahibe. We jumped into the water at a place called Coco

family members who did not dive went there in a zodiac at

Reef and couldn't believe it was a reef in the Caribbean Sea.

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Unfortunately, we came across such turbid water and a cloudy day that nothing had any charm for us. The dive was "saved" by a beautiful octopus, which thanked us, spreading its body like an umbrella and letting itself be admired for a long time, before escaping in the gray-brown corners of corals. After getting out of the water, we decided that diving in such conditions did not make sense. Fortunately, the dive site can be changed, Leszek accompanying us all the time offered us to dive on the shallow Atlantic Princess wreck, which is available even for novice divers. Diving on this wreck should not be difficult. The wreck itself offers the opportunity to watch colourful life at shallow depths. The ship was intentionally sunk in 2008, and it has now grown soft and hard corals covering all the elements. It is home to shoals of fish from the snapper family, groupers and all underwater tiny creatures that love al the nooks and crannies. The wreck is well lit, it is also a fantastic place for underwater photographers. With a bit of luck, you can see reef sharks here, which unfortunately did not happen to us. Due to my partner's rhinitis, we had to take a few days break from diving, which we spent resting in the resort, walks along

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travels

(...) but wrecks can even stun with how they have merged into the ecosystem, giving a good example of how nature can use for its own purposes what we have left.

240 meters, lying at 44 meters and the peak reaching around 15 meters. The wreck has become home to many organisms that can be easily observed. We saw there a big crab, and it is probably not the only one we noticed. You can often encounter barracudas near it, shrimp hide in the nooks and crannies, and sponges and corals overgrow it. In many places you can no longer see almost the original metal. You can easily penetrate the wreck, swim inside and get out through numerous holes. In the open parts of the wreck there was good visibility, but in the corners floating particles did not allow the torch light that we used to photograph and record. Due to the depth, careful monitoring of the air supply and non-decompression time during diving is essential. One dive on this wreck is definitely not enough to be able to get to know it well. Unfortunately, we couldn't afford the stretching beach and exploring the nearby part of the island – the aforementioned Saona Peninsula. To postpone dives was not a problem for our guardian.

more time. The Dominican Republic is a great place to look for the sun and warm water, a mixture of cultures, natural beauty, and at

During the last day of diving, we decided to visit the Atlantic

the same time gain new diving experiences. You have to have

Princess wreck again, but we started diving from the wreck of

some luck to appreciate the difference in marine life on the

Saint Gorge, requiring a deeper descent to around 40 meters.

Caribbean reefs, but wrecks can even stun with how they have

We were recommended diving on this wreck as one of the

merged into the ecosystem, giving a good example of how

best dive sites in the area. The wreck Saint George, like the

nature can use for its own purposes what we have left. An

Atlantic Princess, was also deliberately sunk, only earlier, in

undeniable added value for divers are wonderful landscapes,

1999, for the purpose of making it an attraction and habitat for

which, preserved in the photos, will allow the memories to last

marine life near Bayahibe. It is an impressive wreck measuring

until the next trip.

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Green and hawksbill ENDANGERED SPECIES OF TURTLES OF THE RED SEA

Text and photos KLAUDYNA BRZOSTOWSKA PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

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M 34

ost likely, anyone who has dived into the waters of

STATUS

Egypt has encountered a turtle of some sort. Chanc-

Scientists currently recognise seven living species of sea tur-

es are it was a long encounter, and the animal itself

tles around the world. Five of these can be found in the Red

was bold and eager to interact. These animals often live on

Sea. The most common are the green turtle (Chelonia mydas)

reefs or feed among grasses. It would seem that turtle popula-

and the hawksbill turtle (Eretmochelys imbricate). Less common

tions in Egypt are doing well, however, this is not entirely true...

are leatherback turtle (Dermochelys coriacea), the loggerhead

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turtle (Caretta caretta) and the olive ridley turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea). The first listed species has endangered status with a declining population trend. The latter is critically endangered – both are listed by the IUCN (The International Union for Conservation of Nature – https://www.iucnredlist.org).

are carnivorous, feeding on snails and ctenophores. As adults

Photographic identification remains the main method for

they eat seaweed and sea grasses. A well-known diving site in

obtaining data on endangered species. It allows us to identify

Egypt, Abu Dabbab, is home to many green turtles. They stay

each individual turtle by photographing and characterising its

there to feed on the extensive seagrasses and rest in the bay.

body parts. By identifying each individual, we can learn about

Often, around 10 large green turtles can be seen on a single

their movement patterns and, above all, whether they tend

dive at Abu Dabbab.

to return to the same area. By knowing where they go, we learn where to protect these globally endangered species.

HAWKSBILL TURTLE The hawksbill turtle has a beautiful carapace that caused it

GREEN TURTLE

to be hunted almost to extinction. The hawksbill was prized for

The name green turtle does not come from the colour of the

its shell, which was used in combs, brushes, fans and furniture.

carapace, which is usually brown or olive, depending on the

Today, the hawksbill turtle is listed as critically endangered,

habitat, but from the greenish colour of the skin. Weighing

meaning that commercial trade is prohibited. These animals

up to 300 kilograms, green turtles are among the largest sea

are named for the shape of their beak, which is similar to a rap-

turtles in the world. Their proportionally small head (which

tor's beak.

they cannot hide!) protrudes from a heart-shaped carapace that measures up to 150 centimetres. Males are slightly larg-

You can find interesting facts, research and photos related to

er than females and have a longer tail. Both have paddle-like

sea turtle conservation in Egypt under the following links:

flippers, making them powerful swimmers. Adult green tur-

— https://www.medasset.org/support/

tles are the only herbivorous sea turtles. As younglings they

— https://www.hepca.org/projects/project/115

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

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Killer whales

KILLERS, VICTIMS, MOTIVES AND MYSTERIES

Text and photos JAKUB BANASIAK

Orca in captivity

Are orcas truly killer whales? Who is guilty and who is the victim? Are orcas dangerous for people? These questions recur from time to time in the media, but also in the minds of tourists and divers who meet orcas in various places around the world.

rcas are some of the most pow-

Instead, orcas have been an import-

erful marine predators that kill

ant part of coastal indigenous cultures

a variety of animals to survive,

for millennia. In the Pacific Northwest,

and their diet varies among popula-

indigenous people have always related

tions around the world. But where did

to orcas with awe and respect, which

the word 'killer' come from? Until about

is why these mammals hold an import-

60 years ago, orcas were widely viewed

ant place in their art, mythology and

by humans (apart from the indigenous

social life.

people of North America) as the embod-

For example, the Haida people of

iment of evil, ready to destroy boats and

the Haida Gwaii Islands on the north

devour sailors at every opportunity. In

coast of British Columbia revered the

1973, US Navy diving manuals described

orca, or Ska'na, as the most powerful

the orca as "an extremely vicious animal",

inhabitant of the underwater world.

warning that it "attacks humans at every

Among the Kwakwaka'wakw on the

opportunity" (although there was abso-

northeast coast of Vancouver Island,

lutely no evidence to support this claim).

the orca, or Max'inux, was one of the

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earliest ancestors, mythical beings from which every family group descended. The orca was regarded as the supreme ruler of the world below the ocean's surface. Many coastal First Nations believe that orcas can embody the souls of deceased chiefs. Throughout the world, orcas are found in a wide range of habitats, both in the open ocean and coastal waters. They have the most diverse diet of all cetaceans. Different populations tend to specialise in acquiring their characteristic foods. They often follow a coordinated hunting strategy, working as a team like a wolf pack. For this reason, they are sometimes called "wolves of the ocean". Although the diet of orcas depends to some extent on what is available Orcas near Skjervøy

where they live, it is primarily determined by the culture (i.e., learned hunting tactics) of each ecotype. For

playing in the shallows. In order to catch

pouncing on them from above and not

example, one ecotype of orca in the

a young sea lion, the orca accelerates

allowing the exhausted whale to swim

Pacific Northwest of the United States

and swims out onto the beach using

away to catch its breath. Most often, or-

(called residents) feeds exclusively on

the wave’s momentum. It is important

cas only eat the tongue and lower jaw of

fish, mainly salmon, while another eco-

to catch the prey as quickly as possible

a hunted whale.

type in the same area (called transients

and withdraw to deeper water. If it set-

The hunting of orcas for seals in Ant-

or Bigg's killer whales) feeds mainly on

tled on the beach, it would end up dead.

arctic areas is particularly interesting.

Some orcas have developed a tech-

First, one of the orcas sticks its head

Orcas use very diverse and com-

nique for killing sharks and can handle

high above the water (so-called spy hop-

plex hunting strategies. Moreover, they

such dangerous species as mako shark,

ping) in order to spot a seal on the floe.

adapt their techniques to the type of

blue shark, tiger shark or even great

Then a group of several orcas starts

prey. They are extremely creative, learn-

white without much trouble. When

a coordinated manoeuvre: two or three

ing, improving their hunting techniques

attacking a shark, the orca first tries

of them try to create a strong wave on

and passing them on from generation

to push its opponent towards the sur-

one side of the floe, so as to flush the

to generation.

marine mammals and squid.

face, then strikes its prey with a pow-

lying seal into the sea, while on the oth-

We could read about the Norwegian

erful tail fin, effectively stunning it.

er side of the ice sheet other individu-

population of orcas, hunting herring

Observations in recent years show that

als are already waiting to catch it. If this

and using "carousel fishing" and "lob-

orcas are probably aware that they can

strategy does not work, the orcas push

tailing" strategies, in PERFECT DIVER No.

induce the tonic immobility by hold-

against the floe with their bodies so that

19, in Klaudyna Brzostowska's wonder-

ing the shark upside down. Even great

the seal slides into the water under its

ful report entitled "Shoals of herring,

white sharks can be rendered immobile

own weight.

matriarchy of killer whales and hump-

in this way.

back whales, or Norwegian winter be-

Such hunts, as well as moments

They employ a completely different

when females teach their cubs the art of

hunting strategy towards large ceta-

hunting, every now and then grabbing

Orcas inhabiting the waters off the

ceans such as minke whales, juvenile

and releasing a whale calf or tossing

coast of South America are very keen

grey whales and humpback whales.

a sea lion puppy into the air, look ex-

on hunting sea lions, especially inexpe-

Since these mammals need to breathe

tremely dramatic. No wonder the term

rienced juveniles lying on the beach or

air, orcas simply try to drown them by

killer whale is still in use.

yond the Arctic Circle".

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

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DO THESE SOPHISTICATED PREDA-

away from people. Suddenly, one indi-

city in north-western Spain, a yacht was

TORS ALSO ATTACK HUMANS?

vidual turned towards a surfer, com-

struck by an orca around 15 times. The

Until now, there have been very few cas-

ing within half a metre of him before

damaged boat had to be towed back

es of wild orcas attacking humans. Most

quickly changing course. Researchers

to port. Near Cape Trafalgar, nine orcas

marine biologists believe that these re-

from the Norwegian Orca Survey (NOS),

reportedly hit the boat for more than

corded incidents were due to the orcas

which has been observing the local orca

an hour and forced the crew to shut

initially misidentifying humans as prey.

population for more than 20 years, be-

down the engine. In most cases, these

In such cases, the orca instantly aborts

lieve that the orcas were searching for

large dolphins were primarily interest-

the attack when it realises its mistake.

seal prey at this location. These preda-

ed in the rudder – nibbling and destroy-

One of the most dramatic exam-

tors use echolocation to better investi-

ing it.

ples of such behaviour was an incident

gate their habitat and prey. According

Orcas have often approached sail-

during the Terra Nova expedition of

to the NOS team, it is very likely that the

ing boats before, but this was simply

1910. While the expedition was travers-

charging orca realised at the last sec-

a sign of curiosity, and the orcas did

ing pack ice, a group of orcas attempted

ond that the surfer was not a seal, so it

not rub up against the boats. The cur-

to overturn the cracked ice sheets and

turned sharply and simply moved away.

rent behaviour has surprised everyone

throw people and dogs into the wa-

Renowned cetacean researcher Dr Nao-

and has become the subject of in-depth

ter. However, most marine biologists

mi Rose takes a similar view, pointing

research. Last autumn, some scientists

believe that the attack was caused by

out that any predator can be confused

concluded that only three juveniles

mistaking the barking of dogs for the

by stimuli that mimic prey, but orcas,

were responsible for the described in-

sounds of seals and was not an intend-

thanks to their abilities, can realise the

cidents. They called them Black Gladis,

ed attack on humans.

situation very quickly and change their

Grey Gladis and White Gladis. But why

intent. They are not mindless killers.

did they do it?

In fact, there is currently only one confirmed case of a wild orca attack

In 2020, even more surprising inter-

Jörn Selling, marine biologist for one

on a human. This attack took place in

actions between orcas and humans oc-

of Tarifa's whale watching operators,

1972 and involved surfer Hans Kret-

curred off the coasts of Portugal, Spain

suggests that this behaviour could be

schmer. Kretschmer encountered seals

and in the Strait of Gibraltar. During the

a consequence of the first lockdown

in the water while surfing near Point

summer months, mariners and sailors

during the coronavirus pandemic. From

Sur. Shortly after, he felt something

from many small vessels reported con-

March 2020, there were no yachts in the

extremely strong grab his thigh. A large

frontations between orcas and their

region at all for almost three months be-

predator grabbed his leg with its teeth

boats. Orcas would come very close,

fore they reappeared and their return

and released him in a moment. There

hit the hull, push the boats, turn them

may have been stressful for the orcas,

was no further attack and the swimmer

around, block and bite the rudder. In

especially as it coincided with the hunt-

made it safely to shore. The bite was

some cases, the damage was exten-

ing season for tuna, which migrate into

deep but clean. Although it required

sive and the boats not only lost parts

the area at that time.

more than 100 stitches and could eas-

of their rudders, but also their ability

Another explanation may be the

ily have led to death, the whole situa-

to manoeuvre. At least one crew mem-

conflict between orcas and fishermen.

tion looked more like a mistake made

ber was injured as a result of the shocks

These dolphins have been stealing

by the orca than a deliberate attack on

and sudden movements of the boats.

tuna from fishermen for decades, bit-

the man.

These were not random encounters.

ing off large chunks of these valuable

In one incident near A Coruña, a port

fish and sometimes stealing whole piec-

In recent years, the media have reported a number of further alleged attacks on humans by orcas, but a close examination of individual cases leads to a rather different interpretation of events. In September 2017, orcas appeared during the semi-final of the Lofoten Masters surfing competition in northern Norway, on Unstad beach. Most of the pod was swimming some distance

es and teaching their young to do so.

...any predator can be confused by stimuli that mimic prey, but orcas, thanks to their abilities, can realise the situation very quickly and change their intent. They are not mindless killers.

There are many indications that fishermen are aggressively trying to defend themselves against orcas. Photo-video documentation of orcas from the area reveals many wounds on their bodies, including puncture wounds, which must have been passed with something like a spear, pike pole or harpoon. Perhaps these alleged attacks on sailboats were

planet earth

Marine trade routes and cetacean routes often intersect and can lead to collisions.

a reaction to what the fishermen had

on the beach in Ceuta with their fins cut

planning an attack, these cetaceans

previously done to these orcas.

off and their bodies shot.

always sneak up on their prey and

Boat and ship traffic in the Strait of

In human terms, it could be said

are very aggressive. Their hunting be-

Gibraltar has long been a problem for

that orcas have many reasons to show

haviour is different from the behaviour

marine animals. Apart from contain-

their displeasure at the excessive traf-

towards the boats they claim to be

er ships and ferries, even cruise ships

fic and number of vessels, especially

attacking. Renaud de Stephanis there-

and whale watching boats do not al-

during their tuna hunting season. En-

fore believes that these orcas are sim-

ways maintain the required minimum

vironmental pollution, noise that dis-

ply playing. In the animal world, play

distance of 60 metres from animals.

rupts communication within the family

means not so much entertainment as

There have been numerous collisions

group, physical pressure, incidents of

exploration, experimentation, learning

between the animals and various ves-

crew aggression towards marine ani-

by experience. It is a manifestation of

sels, propeller injuries and for many

mals are all strong stressors. However,

curiosity and an element of learning

sailors and boat owners an encounter

scientists do not believe that orcas wish

new behaviour.

with a cetacean is not at all a desirable

to harm the people on board the vessels

A report by the GT Orca Atlantica

adventure. There is a thriving drug and

or attack the boats out of revenge. In

team indicates that what attracts and

migrant trade on the border between

the opinion of some researchers, the

interests orcas the most is the rudder

Europe and Africa. Smugglers' boats

behaviour of orcas is rather related

of the boat. Stopping the boat, stopping

obviously do not follow any cetacean

to play. Biologist Renaud de Stephanis

the engine and letting go of the rudder

welfare advice, do not slow down and

claims that such incidents do not at all

causes their interest to drop and, in

do not avoid dolphin pods. In April 2020,

resemble the aggressive behaviour of-

most cases, they stop the interaction.

nine smaller dolphins were found dead

ten observed when orcas hunt. When

Only 50% of the boats they interacted

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

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with suffered any damage. It is therefore difficult to speak of aggression and intentional attack. However, there are places where orcas attack, injure and kill people. This happens in oceanariums, dolphinariums – where these great dolphins are kept in captivity. Leading orca scientists agree that captivity is devastating for these marine mammals, which in the wild form close relationships with each other, travel more than 100km a day and work in packs to hunt and find food suitable for themselves. Many orcas have been captured and forced to perform in captivity, to live in completely unnatural conditions. These conditions cause them stress, anxiety and depression that is not seen in wild orcas. There have been over 150 well-documented dangerous behaviours of orcas towards humans in captivity, including 4 fatalities. What could be their source? Let us go back in history. On 18 November 1961, the first orca was captured in Newport Harbor, California. She was placed in a 30x15x6 m oval tank. She immediately began bumping into the walls and swimming restlessly in her new, unnatural environment. Less than two days after her capture she was found dead in her pool. Many biologists believe that her death was a suicide. After unleashing herself, she hit the walls with her body until she fell as a result of her injuries. Such acts of self-harm are not natural behaviour for orcas but are quite common in captivity. Many captive orcas inflict pain on themselves because they are bored and frustrated with their environment. One of the most common

Orcas kept at Loro Parque in Tenerife captured as they refused to take part in the show

However, there are places where orcas attack, injure and kill people. This happens in oceanariums, dolphinariums – where these great dolphins are kept in captivity.

ways of self-harm is through dental de-

tributes to many problems among orcas in oceanariums and dolphinariums. The aggression shown by orcas in captivity is not just limited to other orcas, but also to humans. Perhaps the most notorious incident was the death of SeaWorld trainer Dawn Brancheau after she was attacked by a male orca, Tilikum, who had already killed two other people. Tilikum was caught from the sea off the coast of Iceland when he was

struction. Orcas in captivity often bite

tivity. Because orcas in captivity cannot

just two years old. Taken to the neglect-

and chew the covers and edges of pools,

choose their companions, we often see

ed Sealand of the Pacific marine park,

causing great pain and damaging their

more dominant cetaceans intimidating

Tilikum lived in very harsh conditions

teeth. All this is indicative of the great

younger ones in enclosures. Sometimes

for a long time. He was denied food and

frustration, boredom and stress that

individuals from completely different

often endured attacks from two domi-

constantly accompanies them.

populations are kept in the same facili-

nant females. He had to perform eight

The only recorded fatal attack by

ty, 'speaking' in completely different di-

times a day, seven days a week. For

one orca on another occurred in cap-

alects. Lack of communication also con-

Tilikum, being such a highly intelligent,

planet earth Former SeaWorld orca trainer John Hargrove reveals details of Alexis Martinez's death (Whale Fest 2015)

were made to hide the fact that it was an obvious act of animal's aggression, it was suggested that it was the trainer's mistake, that Keto's behaviour did not indicate any danger. There was no mention of the fact that the animal was frustrated and stressed. Here is what Loro Parque owner Wolfgang Kiessling had to say on the matter: "It was an accident. Accidents happen..." The truth about the actual course of the accident was concealed even from the victim's mother. The most important thing was to keep it quiet so as not to lose the clientele! SeaWorld as the rightful owner emotional and socially complex animal,

one to kill. Home to another killer orca

of Keto remained silent, so did Loro

captivity was physically and mentally

is the infamous Loro Parque in Tener-

Parque. Much was only revealed after

devastating.

ife, so popular among Polish tourists. It

a male Tilikum killed trainer Dawn Bran-

Readers who have watched the doc-

was here 12 years ago on Christmas Eve

cheau two months later in another Sea-

umentary "Blackfish" will probably re-

that the orca named Keto killed Alex-

World-owned marine park. The death of

member that Tilikum was not the only

is Martinez, a young coach. Attempts

a staff member was harder to conceal in

Loro Parque orcas forced into unnatural behaviour

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

planet earth

Ingrid Visser presents the scale of injury as a consequence of aggression between orcas in the oceanarium (Brighton 2014)

The orcas from Loro Parque were described as the most dysfunctional group of orcas in captivity. They were all separated from their mothers at an incredibly young age (something that would be very unlikely in the wild).

other incidents in which Keto showed

and aggression. Keto and the other indi-

aggressive

viduals had to constantly fight for their

behaviour

towards

his

trainers. Nothing happens for no rea-

position in the pool.

son. From a young age, Keto has been

As described by journalist Tim

moved from one SeaWorld facility to an-

Zimmermann, the constant boredom

other an alarming number of times. And

caused stereotypic behaviours in the

every such transport is a huge stress for

orcas,

an animal. Finally, he was sent from the

gnawing and chewing on concrete pool

United States to Loro Parque in Tener-

edges and strips of Metflex, a rubber

ife together with 3 other random or-

compound used for waterproofing.

cas. The orcas from Loro Parque were

These behaviours caused Keto to have

described as the most dysfunctional

significant cavities in his teeth threat-

the United States than on the Canary Is-

group of orcas in captivity. They were

ening infections, and Metflex poisoning

land, where Loro Parque has enormous

all separated from their mothers at an

was suspected. He was also observed

influence.

incredibly young age (something that

to have a mucus running from his left

including

health-threatening

A journalistic investigation and con-

would be very unlikely in the wild). As

eye, a likely sign of irritation from the

sultation with scientists revealed that

there was no dominant adult and expe-

chemicals poured into the pools. As

many moments in Keto's life could have

rienced pack leader in the group (as al-

Zimmermann wrote in his publications,

foreshadowed the tragic ending. Orca

ways happens in the wild), the social sit-

"A frustrated killer whale – whether it's

researcher Ingrid Visser gathered infor-

uation among the orcas at Loro Parque

struggling with captivity, social struc-

mation from various sources about four

was characterised by stress, uncertainty

ture, sexual tension, poor health, or

planet earth

Apathy and awaiting coach's attention

Let this article be a tribute to Alex-

tivity industry, which keeps wild ma-

is Martinez and the other victims not

rine animals in conditions that violate

Finally, it is worth mentioning Alexis's

only of enslaved orcas, but above all

their natural needs.

mother, Mrs Mercedes Hernandez. De-

the greedy cruel and dirty dolphin cap-

training failures – is a potentially dangerous killer whale."

spite a great personal tragedy, this extraordinary and strong woman became, after the loss of her son, a defender of orcas and an activist against their captivity. Together with local animal protection groups, she protests against the cruel conditions in which orcas are kept in places such as Loro Parque. For years she has dreamt of meeting orcas in their natural habitat. Thanks to the support of her family and friends, she was able to fulfil this dream. A few years ago, she experienced an unusual and very exciting encounter with free-ranging wild orcas in Canada, off the coast of Vancouver Island. She was able to admire the orcas from her sea kayak from several dozen metres, observe their family groups, natural behaviour, listen to their characteristic sounds. And all this in conditions where no one is threatened, and the name "killer whale" ceases to make any sense. John Hargrove during his presentation on orca casualties and the deaths of Alexis Martinez and Dawn Brancheau

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

our conversation

For Ocean From Us TWO DIVERS IN CONVERSATION ABOUT ECO GLASSES. MAREK KUCHARZ RESPONDS, WOJCIECH ZGOŁA ASKS.

Glasses photos FOFU Underwater photos MAREK KUCHARZ

Wojciech Zgoła: Hi Marek!

WZ: What way, why is it special?

Marek Kucharz: Hi :)

MK: You know, everyone is eco now, the banks and their eco-cards. Seriously, only 30% of plastic is recycled, and that

WZ: It is different to talk seeing each other face to face

doesn't change anything about what's in the forests and lakes.

without masks.

Plus, so-called biodegradable plastics... I still have them bur-

MK: Exactly.

ied in my garden. It's been three years now and nothing has happened. Why? It's biodegradable but only if it's not mixed

WZ: Before we start about glasses… How long have you

with other plastics, the temperature is above 60°C and the

been diving?

environment is very rich in oxygen. Then it will decompose in

MK: It's been almost 18 years now, I started when I was 17. So,

about 40 days. Where in Europe are such landfills?

it's been a while. My first dive was in Poland, but mostly I dived outside of Poland. On the Great Reef in Australia...

WZ: So another marketing ploy… MK: Exactly. That's why I wanted to do something that was

WZ: Oh, I envy you, it's one of my unfulfilled dreams so far ;)

quickly noticeable.

MK: I saw a lot of cool stuff there. In fact, for a dozen or so years I had such a job that I dived on almost all continents.

WZ: Quick results.

I still have Antarctica left. The last years I spent in the Canary

MK: Yes, you collect something, it's not in the environment and

Islands where I had the opportunity to dive several times

it's not going to end up in the ocean. The idea was to make

a week. And there you could see the change the most, less

something out of this rubbish that would be usable. And then

and less fish and more and more plastic. I'm talking about

wait, maybe in 20, 30 years' time someone will invent a tech-

diving in the same places.

nology that will allow us to do something with this plastic that will benefit the environment...

WZ: And where specifically did you live?

MK: On Tenerife, but I dived around all the islands. I always had

WZ: And it worked!

this urge to try to do something cool somewhere. I was surfing

MK: (smile) The easiest and cheapest way is to buy processed

the Internet... and I came up with the idea of making something

pellets and make something out of them. All in all, it will also

cool out of this collected plastic. But in a special way.

be an eco-product. However, this is still the 30%, and I wanted

our conversation

to go further. I wanted to collect and make something out of it right away. And that it would ultimately be a usable product. And that is how FOFU was created. WZ: And why this name? MK: For Ocean From Us. I wanted to build a story around this. I've always had something to do with seas and oceans, so that's where the acronym comes from, plus we're in Silesia, one of the most polluted regions in Poland. I wanted to do something

...(biodegradable plastics) It's biodegradable but only if it's not mixed with other plastics, the temperature is above 60°C and the environment is very rich in oxygen. Then it will decompose in about 40 days. Where in Europe are such landfills?

for the environment from Silesia. That is why there is the inscription "From Silesia With Love" on the inside of the frame. WZ: And so, the name FOFU was born, as well as the idea. MK: You know, doing something like this is a big investment. As I returned to Poland just before the pandemic, and had more time, I created those machines myself. It was time to put ideas into practice and do something with that rubbish. WZ: But how was it with these machines? MK: Initially, I wanted to buy them. However, the prices I was offered quickly made me make them myself. I came to an agreement with the guys from Barcelona about the form because they wanted too much money from me in Poland. WZ: At this point you decided that it would be glasses. MK: Yes, a universal product, used by virtually everyone in the world. And my idea is that by the end of the year all

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

our conversation

production will be based on solar energy. I want it to be 100% ecological. WZ: That's why you need to be supported and shown to the world! It's cool that there are such people who bring dreams/ideas to life. MK: (Smile) Thank you. Many people laugh at me. But they will see that in a few years it will be the largest recycling company in Europe and then in the world. Something must be done, or we'll drown in this plastic! WZ: What about the colours? MK: We are unrestricted when it comes to colour. The easiest way is to dye it, but we don't do that. The reason is simple, it has to be pure PP or HDPE plastic, which are the safest plastics for human consumption. As far as we can say that plastic is safe, this is the safest one. These include trays, cutlery, packaging etc. It can be recycled repeatedly if it’s without admixtures.

our conversation

WZ: You can see that these glasses are made of multi-coloured plastic. MK: My mother-in-law collected some flowerpots on the beach. I ground them together and that was it. WZ: The colour came out quite interesting. MK: Yes, exactly. That was the idea, but normally we segregate plastic into colours and then we make a specific one. There's so much of it that the colour palette is very diverse.

WZ: And are you able to make glasses during the event, out of the plastic we pull out of the lake?

WZ: You could say that we both deal with waste by diving.

MK: I need 20 minutes :)

We have been doing it for many years. Me, maybe less productively, because I just collect this rubbish from the

WZ: A matter of sorting out the rubbish, isn't it?

seas, lakes and rivers, sort it and send it to landfills. You

MK: Yes, we segregate plastic and we're ready to go.

took it a step further. You choose plastic, segregate it, and make glasses out of it. Tell us, is any plastic suitable for

WZ: So, a diver can come without glasses and return with

your FOFU glasses? Like, for example, plastic bags?

glasses?!

MK: Theoretically we can also make glasses out of them (plastic

MK: If he wants to, he can make them himself.

bags). However, it is LDPE plastic – that is light, I call it "blown". Such glasses would be very, very flexible. But let me add right

WZ: Fantastic. Diving is a cool thing :) Okay, so kept think-

away that I have an idea to use this plastic to make waist bags

ing about, but how long did it take from the decision to

or, for example, baseball caps. But we take it easy, one step at

the final product?

a time, because you won't stretch a day.

MK: 6 months into my first pair of glasses. There were glasses but with no lenses yet. So, from the decision to start up,

WZ: Of course. Marek, if there is going to be a Clean Up the

getting very good lenses and hinges, to creating some small

World 2022 final, I already invite you to it, you are coming

stock took a year in total. Why so long? You know, you can buy

with one of those machines, because you told me on the

lenses in China for a dollar, I personally wouldn't want those.

phone that you also have mobile machines which you use

I don't know if that would be worse for the eyes than not wear-

to educate.

ing glasses... I wanted lenses with filters, which are a medical

MK: Yes, we have 2 such machines, one to grind and one to

product. I wanted it to be a Polish product and I agreed with

inject.

the manufacturer in Gdynia, Poland.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

our conversation

WZ: My congratulations. I am very impressed. MK: Thanks. I would like to add that we also have a finished design for an eco-case. It will also be produced from plastic waste. WZ: And how much plastic do you need to collect to make these glasses? MK: 21 grams. WZ: There was this film, 21 Grams, about how much a soul weighs... WZ: Yes, although that's just a coincidence. They are generally very light. At first, I thought this was a disadvantage. However, users have persistently persuaded me otherwise. On top of that, while browsing the Internet, I found out that scientists have calculated that 21 grams of plastic are consumed on average by each person per month. WZ: Seriously, it's a disaster with this microplastic that we eat willy-nilly... WZ: Unfortunately, yes, it is a disaster. WZ: Distribution? WZ: I am in the process of making arrangements with a company that has 50 outlets in Poland. There are Diving Centres that have FOFU in their offer. Plus social media. WZ: We as Perfect Diver join in. WZ: The plans are there, I hope it will develop. WZ: And we wish you that! Thank you very much for meeting and talking to us, and for the 15% discount on glasses for our readers. WZ: Thank you for your interest and we’ll be in touch.

MAREK KUCHARZ did not think that writing a few sentences about himself could be such a big problem. "I will definitely not become a national prophet. I started my diving adventure over 15 years ago and to this day I definitely prefer the company of sharks to people. Thanks to various circumstances, and then thanks to my work, I had the opportunity to dive almost on all continents, in the most remote corners of the world. Unfortunately, I started my adventure with photography a little later, so I have to come back to most of these places and it scares me. The changes in ecosystems are drastic, when I take pictures I want to show what is not visible – the beauty of the underwater world, which we need to start taking better care of. I hope that the photos will make the public aware that there is something to care for and that changes can be stopped so that the next generations can enjoy the underwater world full of life."

www.fofuworld.pl

with code perfectdiver –15%

underwater inspirations

Painting entitled "RAFA" ("REEF"), Format 81 x 60 cm, Technique – acrylic on canvas

n this work I wanted to draw the viewer's attention to the

Maja Woźniak, born 16 September 1996 in Bydgoszcz

turquoise glow of the water around the creatures living in

Student of Painting, currently in the fourth year of studies, at

the coral reefs.

the Nicolaus Copernicus University in Toruń (major: painting

When diving around those objects, it feels as if the organ-

in architecture, Stained Glass and Artistic Glass Workshop).

isms living on the coral reefs were creating a glow around

Currently resides and continues her studies in Toruń.

themselves. This is clearly visible even in the photos taken

In her work she mainly draws inspiration from marine mo-

during visits to the reefs.

tifs, fish and plants.

The streamlined, flexible and changing shapes are an

In her works, she captures the state of being under water.

endless source of inspiration for me, looking at a photo of

She finds herself best in abstract organic painting.

a coral I imagine how it moves underwater, what colours it glows with and what colours the surrounding water is. This is

Author’s contact: majaw580@gmail.com

how I form my language of artistic expression.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

under the ceiling

THE CAVETTES Text JOANNA WYREBEK

Photo Jacek Rożycki, Joanna

Photo Magnus Määttä, Sara

Photo Hedwig Dieraert, Sanne

realised that despite our combined diving careers spanning

Take three female diving instructors with one shared passion, add some water and boom: The Cavettes is born! (Well it wasn’t as simple as that )

over 27 years, we hadn’t ever been in an all-female team for any exploration, cave/mine or deep wreck dives. We decided that had to change and arranged to meet and explore the beautiful underwater world together. From that initial meeting the idea began to form – we could unite to promote the sport positively for more women, breaking down some of the perceived barriers particularly to the technical, mine,

I 50

cave and cold-water side that's heavily male dominated (even n 2020 we met on social media, and despite being from

most equipment is designed principally for you ‘guys’ – e.g.

across Europe, bonded over each other’s passion for

the Triton is a lovely rebreather but doesn’t work well with

diving, adventures posts and photos. We got talking and

larger chests!).

under the ceiling

Photo Patrik Grönqvist, Sara

Photo Jacek Rożycki, Joanna

WHO ARE WE: Sara (Sweden) — Queen of the North! She absolutely loves cold. Green waters, ice and snow are her natural element. She easily handles >2 hour dives in 1°C water without using any heating system (crazy right?!). — Super organised, smart and the ‘loudest’ one in the group, her sense of humour is brilliant! — She trains a lot and is very hard on herself, that’s what makes her such a good diver. — Has been diving on a JJ CCR unit since 2019. — Everything from mines, wrecks, caves and nature dives is what she enjoys! Photo Alexandre Legrix, Sanne

Sanne (Belgium) — Often called Barbie thanks to her love of pink, this misconception is quickly shattered once you see her under-

Joanna aka JoJo (Poland/UK)

water; her perfect trim on the Kiss Sidewinder CCR has

— Jo’s the oldest of the group and apparently wisdom comes

been mastered over hundreds of hours (over 200 hrs to

with age but noooope! Everyone Jo dived with before she

be exact).

moved onto a CCR used to love being underwater with her

— Perhaps the most passionate of the group, it’s hard not to

as it was the only time she’d shut up. Unfortunately that all

be infected and fall in deeper love with diving whilst in her

changed in 2018 when she did her Mod1 on a JJ (before con-

presence!

verting to an XCCR); now there is no respite above or below!

— Show Sanne a tiny restriction underwater and she will

— Jo got into diving later in life but quickly fell in love and

squeeze through it effortlessly; who doesn’t love a tight

decided to share that passion with others by becoming an

hole! 

instructor a couple of years later.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

under the ceiling

Photo Guy Trees, Joanna

The Swedish Princess Tuna mine was amazing but at the same time some dives were challenging and plagued with issues (well, maybe not for Sara because she almost lives there) as it is not uncommon that gear optimized for warmer waters tend to have a need to be adjusted for colder waters. On this trip we were incredibly lucky to be joined by several of our friends and some amazing photographers. You can see some of their work on social media. Over the course of the week-long trip we created a true diving family bond and laid the foundations for The Cavettes. Our ideas started to flow on just how we could work together to spread the word to more women, encourage them to one Photo Hedwig Dieraert, Sanne

day see the beauty of the world we had just explored, and what else we could do to support them and grow our community.

— Opposite to Sara, she loves her heating systems while diving, yet she always feels the cold, even in the UK (which isn’t

WHERE NEXT?

cold according to Sara)!

Hot on the heels of our first trip we wanted more; we had to spend further time underwater together and given we all

OUR FIRST TRIP

love mines, decided to look at other European destinations.

Full of trepidation about potentially not getting along in per-

Sanne is currently exploring mines in Belgium and suggested

son, and not being comfortable under the water together as

she could host and we would accompany her.

a team, we met in December 2021 to embark on our first ad-

We are planning to spend a week there in June and will

venture together. We had decided to discover the cold beauty

possibly also dive the North Sea (if the sea allows us) so we

of Sweden's Tuna Hästberg mine – (facts and info about mine

can be joined by some guests who aren’t as comfortable un-

– Perfect Diver No. 19, Swedish Princess, Tomek Ramutkowski,

derground.

page 11). Thankfully all our concerns were quickly put to rest and we got on like a house on fire!

During this time we hope to start sharing our knowledge and experience with other female divers, both those joining

The three of us were joined by another female guest, Maria

us and through materials we will post on social media. I’m

Bollerup, and thankfully we didn't scare her off. She absolute-

pleased to say that our guest list is large already but we al-

ly loved every minute of it and so did we!

ways welcome more new friends 

under the ceiling

Photo Magnus Määttä Sara

The whole idea of the community we are trying to build is to share our experience, offer support, and hopefully inspire others. Beyond organising trips we also want to work with female divers locally as well as in a group setting.

Photo Jacek Rożycki, Joanna

others. Beyond organising trips we also want to work with female divers locally as well as in a group setting. Our ambition is to grow an ambassador network initially in Europe where we all are, but branching out to other parts of the world is one of our aims. By organizing meetings, try-dives, and instructional courses aimed at women we hope to encourage and inspire more to keep diving and evolving. We want women to come to us.

FUTURE

We recognise the diving industry can be intimidating and

I said at the start that we want to encourage more women into

overwhelming to women these days and in particular the tech

the deeper, darker, colder side of our beloved sport… we want

community is so male dominated, it can feel harder for female

to organise even more trips, host workshops, write in more

divers to step into it, or even know where to begin. There are

publications, and continue posting to social media.

so many of you out there who will be awesome divers and you

Though our main efforts are directed towards women in

might be looking for that last little push, or someone to answer

diving, men are more than welcome and also encouraged

what might feel like an embarrassing question (ever wondered

to join our trips and adventures as we recognise that our

how to use a she-pee or if wearing a nappy is comfortable after

community is not one or the other gender, but we are ONE

240 minutes in the water?!). We are seeking to embed an open

Our plan is to arrange one trip a year, minimum, where

culture that’s seen as inviting to all; there is no such thing as

we come together to explore new places, meet new people

a stupid question. We have all the helping hands and dry gloves

and share our experience with each other. Belgium is our first

ready and waiting 

trip for 2022 where we seek to meet other women who share

We want to believe us WOMEN should inspire, help and

the same passion and interest for diving, as well as women

encourage each other in order to be better divers and better

who might be thinking about taking their first steps into the

people in general.

technical world. We don’t yet know where/when the next will

If you are reading this and thinking of joining the Cavettes,

be after this but we hope to build on the success of Tuna in

think no more… Our dry suits are always damp, our fins will

2021 and keep growing our community – all of friends’ voices

never rest, and our home-baked cookies are both tasty and

matter and suggestions are welcomed.

if you find them on a line then you know we’re in that mine!

The whole idea of the community we are trying to build is to share our experience, offer support, and hopefully inspire

Come and join the crazy bunch! See you underwater. Social Media: Instagram – the.cavettes; Facebook – The Cavettes

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

wrecks

Trip report

AMOCO MILFORD HAVEN WRECK, ARENZANO, ITALY

MT Haven was a VLCC (Very Large Crude Carrier) – Class

Text and photos KURT STORMS

oil-tanker built as Amoco Milford Haven in 1973. The Haven was incredibly large: 334 m/1,069 ft long with a 51 m/167 ft

After not being able to travel for an extensive period because of the COVID-19 pandemic, we traveled back to Italy. I completed my instructor course – CCR-OC Trimix Instructor – under the supervision of IANTD ITT Paul Lijnen. After a few exciting and heavy days, I can now proudly call myself a fully-fledged IANTD CCR/OC Trimix Instructor.

beam and a displacement tonnage of 110,000 tons. In 1987, it was hit by a missile in the Persian Gulf during the Iran-Iraq War. Extensively refitted in Singapore, it was then sold to ship brokers who leased it to Troodos Shipping. Around 12:30 pm on April 11, 1991, the Haven was unloading a 230,000-ton cargo of crude oil on a floating platform 11 km/7 miles off the coast of Genoa, Italy. Having transferred 80,000 tons, it disconnected from the platform for a routine internal transfer operation to pump oil from two side-holds into a central one. While still loaded with 144,000 tons of crude oil, the ship exploded and caught fire, killing five crew members. As the fire engulfed the ship, flames rose 100 m/328 ft high and, after a series of further explosions, between 30–40,000 tons of oil poured into the sea.

fighting a fire which was difficult to access and control. They

support from the two other instructors who also obtained

distributed more than 9 km/6 miles of inflatable barriers

this rank. The course took place on the most beautiful

around the vessel, submerged 1 m/3 ft below the surface,

wreck of the Mediterranean – the MT Haven.

The Italian authorities acted quickly with hundreds of men

owe this certification to my good students and help and

to control the spillage.

wrecks

On day two, Italian authorities towed the MT Haven closer to the coast in a bid to reduce the coastal area affected and ease intervention efforts. As the bow slipped beneath the surface, the towing crew passed a steel cable around the rudder, and tugs applied towing pressure. On April 14, the 250 m/820 ft main body sank 1.5 km/1.5 miles from the coast, between Arenzano and Varazze, flooding the Mediterranean with up to 50,000 tons of crude oil, making it the worse oil spill in the Mediterranean. The Haven is also the Mediterranean and Europe’s larg-

The Haven is the Mediterranean and Europe’s largest shipwreck in the sea and lies at a depth of 33 m/108 ft to 83 m/273 ft off the coast of Arenzano.

est shipwreck in the sea and lies at a depth of 33 m/108 ft to 83 m/273 ft off the coast of Arenzano (Genoa). I have been diving on this beautiful and unique wreck for

silt that can turn the water milk-like and trap you. The wreck

the last three years, and I can truly say that I am in love with

is enormous and deep, and you can lose your orientation as

this big baby. But I want to warn every reader – she can be

well as your notion of time and your gas consumption. So, plan

a killer and a dangerous monster for untrained or inatten-

your dive, and dive your plan.

tive divers.

No heroes allowed here: You must be humble and patient

Depending on the day, the current can shift from mild

enough to discover the wreck step by step, piece by piece, and

to strong, and the visibility can change from a perfect

according to your own level of training and experience. The

+30 m/+100 ft to a very poor 5 m/16 ft. Inside the wreck is

250 m/820 ft long main section of the Haven lies peacefully in

a giant labyrinth where one can get lost, like in any cave sys-

an upright position. Part of the superstructure, which originally

tem. There are also sharp metal edges and huge amounts of

reached a depth up to 24 m/79 ft is now gone, and the shallow-

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

wrecks

est part of the entire wreck, the smokestack, now stands at 33 m/108 ft deep. (Note, that a piece of the upper deck was found at 94 m/310 ft by Andrea Bada.) Resting at a depth of 40 m/131 ft, you find the empty wheelhouse, from which Captain Petros Gregorakys from Cypriot, maneuvered the tanker – he later died in the explosion. All the instruments and controls burned away before sinking. Installed on the upper deck, isa memorial plate and statues of the Virgin Mary. You can easily penetrate the steering house by heading down or up the inner stairs. It is also very easy to go up or down the main lift opening that goes through all bridges, or to follow the outside walls. The windows on the side are numerous, but too small for most divers, but every room has a door. There are six different bridges about 23 m/75 ft high with bedrooms, the kitchen, and workrooms. You can pen-

Inside the wreck is a giant labyrinth where one can get lost, like in any cave system.

etrate almost everywhere, but it's a labyrinth – consider it as a cave and use a guideline. From the bridge, technical divers can descend to the deck in the back of the tanker, past the winches, pipes, and valves that are proportional to the size of the ship, and then free fall down to the propeller at 81 m/266 ft. Here, the excessiveness is still striking–the rudder is 20 m/66 ft high and the propeller more than 7 m/23 ft in diameter.

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wrecks

The dark becomes darker as we move under the shadow of the wreck and lose light from the surface. At its maximum depth, the Haven is breathtaking; looking up from this point, she is majestic. The engine room entrance is just under the chimney below – 52 m/171 ft, and from there you can go deep inside the ship. Here, you will find a gigantic 8-cylinder diesel engine. The various steel panels and counters are still in perfect shape and intact. Going up on the port side, there is a huge opening left by one of the two explosions. The gaping hole is so large that it is difficult to comprehend its dimensions, the plates twisted like a broken can. You need to be a technical diver to dive the MT Haven and complete these dives with hypoxic gasses. As always, don’t do this dive without proper training. There are two dive centers that can provide all of your supplies for diving the Haven. Both are in the Marina of Arenzano. Organization is perfect, and safety non-negotiable. There is a fixed deco station with decompression bars at 6 m/20 ft and 3 m/10 ft with sufficient spare tanks. The descent lines are fixed and lead you down to the quarterback at – 33 m/108 ft. Enjoy your dive! Divers: Kurt Storms, Willem Verrycken

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

planet earth

Long-tailed ducks COLD-LOVING DIVERS

Text and photos WOJCIECH JAROSZ

In Polish, the term "lodówka" is definitely more often used to name a white cooling device, that is a fridge. However, the “lodówka” from the title is not an electrically powered device for lowering the temperature of the environment, but a wonderful effect of the natural evolution of living organisms, it is a duck.

er ducks. As a rule, they search for food at shallow depths, but they can regularly dive up to 60 m below the sea surface (and some experts say even deeper). There is no need to make the reader aware that at these depths you usually can't see much, but they can still find something to eat thanks to their senses. In their diving they

his species of duck, however, has

up to several million birds fly here every

are underwater more often than on the

something in common with a re-

year! This makes long-tailed ducks the

surface. They spend three times more

frigerator, because it copes quite

most numerous species of all sea ducks

time on underwater culinary tourism

wintering in the Baltic Sea.

than on floating on the sea waves. The

well with the cold, after all, ”lodówka”

differ from other ducks also in that they

(Clangula hyemalis), according to its name,

When looking at ”lodówki”, it is good

target of their frequent dives are most

is a bird of cold waters. They spend the

to know that they are completely unique

often molluscs, but they also eat crusta-

breeding season in the distant tundra

birds. On the pages of the Perfect Diver

ceans and other small invertebrates, not

of Eurasia and North America. Fortu-

magazine we need to start off with de-

despising from time to time, some plants.

nately, we don't have to travel that far to

scribing their underwater exploits! Long-

When they have choice, they prefer to "or-

see them. Long-tailed ducks (“lodówka”

tailed ducks are the only ducks that use

der" mussels in a saltwater, underwater

is called like that in English) come to us

wings when diving (although the main

restaurant. Their good taste applies not

when the water in the North gets frozen,

underwater propulsion are legs with feet

only to gastronomic matters, because it

making the Baltic Sea the most important

armed with membranes). This ability al-

also manifests itself in relation to their

wintering site in Europe (and not only) -

lows them to dive much deeper than oth-

feathered apparel.

planet earth

How do you identify long-tailed ducks among other sea ducks? The most distinctive features that enable species identification are found in males. Birds have it that males are usually more interesting and impressive in their plumage and colouring (as I have had the pleasure to prove many times in my previous bird stories, the ugly sex in birds is not the one marked with the Mars symbol). Among these features, a fancy tail formed by strongly elongated tail feathers comes to the fore. There is a reason why the English name of the species is long-tailed duck. The colouration of the male is also chic, as the distinguished blacks and whites are accompanied by fawn colours. However, it must be added that it is highly variable and in a rather unique way. The complicated nature of long-tailed ducks’ moulting leads to three different coats (not counting the so-called transitional forms). The one described above and visible in the photos is the winter coat. Such long-tailed ducks can be observed on the Baltic Sea. The spring coat is distinctly different, when the male has a blackish-brown front with white sides and a reddish pattern on top. Only a few weeks the ducks wear the so-called autumn coat, when a dark spot on the side of the head is noticeable, the eye area is light, and the crown is black. In each coat, the male long-tailed ducks have a stylish black and pink beak. Young birds resemble females in colouration. Long-tailed females also change their "dress" as a result of moulting, but these

close in sea harbours or, for example,

tional Union for Conservation of Nature

changes are not as conspicuous as in the

near the pier in Sopot. If you manage to

(IUCN). In the Polish legislation they are

case of male representatives of the spe-

spot a flock of long-tailed ducks, you will

also under species protection. The main

cies. The differences in colouration can

probably also be able to hear their inter-

threats to the birds are entanglement in

often be seen directly comparing males

esting and unique voices. Between dives

fishing nets, contact with petroleum sub-

and females, since long-tailed ducks are

they call each other in a very character-

stances, and hunting, as there are coun-

very sociable birds and are often found in

istic way, which allows them to maintain

tries around the world where long-tailed

large flocks. On the Polish coast, you can

contact in the group.

ducks are shot at.

observe them as much as you want, in

Long-tailed ducks are still abundant,

So when you are at the seaside, in

the Gdansk Bay, e.g. in the Vistula mouth,

but they are categorised as vulnerable

the cold season, look out for the amaz-

but also in the western part of the coast

or high-risk (VU, an acronym for vul-

ing divers on the surface of the water

it is not difficult to come across them. If

nerable) by specialised conservation

– beautiful long-tailed ducks, while it is

you are lucky, you can observe them up

organizations, including the Interna-

still possible.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 2(20)/2022

knowledge

A woman’s view ON DIVING

Text ALEKSANDRA ŁYSEK

Photos EDITORIAL TEAM

For five years, I’ve been working at a diving center and a diving store where I also advise divers or divers-to-be on the choice of equipment.

eople laugh at me, like: what,

my husband said this one would be OK

a woman? I ask each customer

for me”, “my diving professional told

tons of questions, but I’m doing it

me so”, not paying attention to whether

to get to understand their needs to the

a piece of equipment feels good, com-

maximum extent possible and make

fortable, but also feminine.

sure I choose such equipment for them

Properly selected equipment, com-

that they would always want to buy only

bined with the appropriate knowledge

from me. It surprises me that men are

and experience – these three aspects af-

Perfect Diver Magazine issue 20

Articles inside

Scuba cylinder valves

A woman’s view on diving

Is it worth diving in the Caribbean Sea?

Trip report

Green and hawksbill