Perfect Diver Magazine 21 issue by perfectdiver

diving freediving passion knowledge

No. 21 3(21)/2022 MAY/JUNE

Price 12,50 € Tax included

GALÁPAGOS IN THE LAND OF DRAGONS DRIVEN BY PASSION

the foreword

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

Editor-in-Chief

hat can we say, summer, warm water, sun and travel is upon us in Europe. Have you already planned your holidays? Where are you going to dive? If you haven't yet, we rush with ideas in the latest issue of our magazine.

We have a big dose of Galápagos excitement for you. Ania Sołoducha ends her story with dives around the islands of Darwin and Wolf. Get ready for amazing encounters with large representatives of marine animals. We spin the globe and stop for another, equally exciting story. Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz invites us to Indonesia, specifically to Komodo, to meet the dragons and more... A lot of women are authors in Perfect Diver, one of them is Klaudyna Brzostowska who discovers Lavezzi for us. Did you know about this place? Our editorial colleague Karola Takes Photos answers Laura Kazimierska's questions. Where she got into the underwater world in the first place and how she perceives and combines her passions as a graphic designer, photographer, and diver. We also have an interesting talk about a manta ray project in the Atlantic, a compilation of ice cream, free drinks and whales, and the biggest underwater treasure ever... so far :) Of course, we’re not done yet. If you like the Baltic Sea, and you find it interesting when specimens like fin whales appear in it – read what Agata Turowicz-Cybula wrote for us about it. And if you’re fond of wrecks – Kurt Storms covers one of them. We also present another side of Yucatan by Zbyszek Rogozinski and a few words about Wojtek A Filip's manometers. Those of you who enjoy a sense of humour and fantastic bird photography – you certainly want to read about great reed warblers. Let’s get inside! See if I haven't forgotten anything in the introduction and remember, dive safe. If you think that projects like Perfect Diver are worth supporting, you can also help us financially

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

table of contents

TRAVELS 12 22 28 34

Galápagos. The Republic of animals, part 2 Yucatan differently In the land of dragons Lavezzi. Treasure of the Strait of Bonifacio

WRECKS 38 Salem Express

EQUIPMENT 44

How to choose an undersuit for your drysuit?

34 OUR CONVERSATION 48 "Manta" project 58 Driven by passion

ARCHAEOLOGY 64 World's Largest Underwater Treasure

PLANET EARTH Publisher PERFECT DIVER WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

52 Ice cream, free drinks and... whales, how to choose 68 70

ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com

a whale watching cruise operator? Unusual guests Screechy reed singers

ISSN 2545-3319

editor in chief

Wojciech Zgoła

underwater archaeology

Mateusz Popek

photographer

Karolina Sztaba

Hubert Reiss

marketing

english language translators

Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak Reddo Translations Sp. z o.o. Piotr Witek

legal care graphic design and composition

Lawyer Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

the magazine was folded with typefaces

Montserrat (Julieta Ulanovsky) Open Sans (Ascender Fonts) Noto Serif, Noto Sans (Google)

printing

Wieland Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Poznań, www.wieland.com.pl

distribution

dive centers, online store

preorder@perfectdiver.com

TIPS & CURIOSITIES 74 Manometers

cover photo

Karola Takes Photos place

Gili Trawangan, Indonesia freediver

Veronika Kruse

www.perfectdiver.com

The Editorial Office does not return unsolicited materials, is not responsible for the content of advertisements and reserves the right to shorten, edit, title the submitted texts and select illustrative materials. Reprinting of articles or parts thereof, copying only with the consent of the Editorial Board. Editors are not responsible for the form and content of advertisements.

If you like this issue, donate any amount! Donation is voluntary. PayPal.Me/perfectdiver PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

editorial team

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

HUBERT REISS

He often repeats that he travels by diving and that is his motto. In 1985

An IT specialist by profession, but a flesh and blood salesman who is not

he obtained a yacht sailor's license, and only in 2006 began to dive. In the

afraid of any job. Diving has always been my big dream. At the beginning

following years he improved his skills by obtaining the Dive Master degree.

it was supposed to be a challenge, a short episode but it turned out to be

He completed nearly 650 dives in various climatic conditions. Since 2007, he

a passion for the end of the world and one day longer. Under water I react

has been taking photographs underwater, and since 2008 he has also been

and rest. As a Divemaster, sidemount Razor diver, and recently also a pho-

filming. As an independent journalist, he published dozens of articles, mainly

tographer, I realize my dreams by admiring and immortalizing the beauty of

in journals dedicated to diving, but not only. Co-author of photo exhibitions in

the underwater world. "Passion breeds professionalism, professionalism gives

Poland and abroad. He is passionate about and propagator of diving.

quality, and quality is a luxury in life. Nowadays, especially..."

Since 2008 he has been running his own website www.dive-adventure.eu. On the basis of extensive experience, in August 2018 he created the new Perfect Diver Magazine.

MATEUSZ POPEK

KAROLA TAKES PHOTOS

”My passion, work and life are under water.” He has been diving since 2009.

Karolina Sztaba, and professionally Karola Takes Photos, is a photographer

Since 2008, he's walking in caves. Underwater archeologist by education.

by education and passion. She is currently working at the Trawangan Dive

He participated in numerous projects in Poland and abroad. He has been

Center on a tiny island in Indonesia – Gili Trawangan, where she moved to

engaged in professional diving since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the quali-

live four years ago. She photographs above and below the water. In addition,

fications of a 2nd class diver. Has experience in underwater work both at

she creates photographic projects against littering the oceans and polluting

sea and inland. Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, especially in the

our planet with plastic ("Trapped", "Trashion"). She cooperates with NGO or-

mountains, and since 2014 he is a diving instructor CMAS M1. In June 2020,

ganizations dealing with environmental protection and actively participates

he obtained a doctoral degree in underwater archeology.

in pro-ecological actions (coral protection, coral planting, cleaning the world, protection of endangered species). She is also the official photographer of Ocean Mimic – a brand that creates swimwear and surfwear from rubbish collected on the beaches of Bali. She cooperated with many brands of diving equipment for which she created advertising campaigns. In 2019, she became the ambassador of the Polish company Tecline. She has been a technical diver for two years.

constant cooperation

WOJCIECH A. FILIP

ANNA SOŁODUCHA

LAURA KAZIMIERSKA

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He

A graduate of Geography faculty at the University

Laura Kazimierska is currently working as PADI

has been diving for over 30 years, including over

of Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with a per-

Course Director at TrawanganDive Center on the

20 years as a technical diver. He is a professional

manent smile on her lips! It was probably Destiny

Indonesian island of Gili Trawangan. Founder of

with great theoretical and practical knowledge. He

that led her to Activtour… and she's been here

the Divemastergilis portal.

is an instructor of many federations: GUE Instruc-

on permanent basis. She passionately fulfils the

www.divemastergilis.com @divemastergilis

tor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS PADI, EFR,

dreams of many, organizing diving trips around the

For over 7 years she has lived and discovered the

TMX Gas Blender. He participated in many diving

world, and she has already been diving for more

underwater world of Indonesia. She is not only an

projects and conferences as a leader, explorer,

than half of her life. Each year she explores a dif-

avid technical diver, but also the face of the Planet

originator or lecturer. These included the Britan-

ferent ‘piece of the ocean’, pinning another pin to

Heroes platform and the ambassador of the Ocean

nic Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave Scientific

her diving world map. In winter she changes fins

Mimic brand. She actively contributes to the pro-

Project on Croatia caves, GROM Expedition in

into her beloved skis and gets away into the Alps.

motion of the protection of corals and the natural

Narvik, Tuna Mine Deep Dive, Glavas Cave in Croa-

A recipe for life? ”The only a dead trunk flows with

environment of fish and marine animals by taking

tia, NOA-MARINE. Professionally, he is a technical

the current – the explorer's canoe flows up the river!”

part in scientific projects, campaigns against ocean

director at TecLine in Scubatech, and a director of

anna@activtour.pl

littering and cooperating with NGOs in Indonesia.

training at TecLine Academy.

activtour.pl; travel.activtour.pl; 2bieguny.com

@laura_kazi

JAKUB DEGEE

MICHAL ČERNÝ

AGATA TUROWICZ-CYBULA

Polish photographer, winner of awards and dis-

"Wet photos" – He has photographed since he

Since I was a child, I had dreamed of becoming

tinctions in world underwater photography com-

remembers. After several years of experience as

a marine biologist and I managed to fulfill that

petitions, has already dived all over the world: with

a diver, he wanted to keep memories of underwa-

dream. I did a degree in oceanography, where

sharks and whales in South Africa, with orcs be-

ter dives. He bought his first compact camera with

I recently started my doctoral studies. My diving

hind the Arctic Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds

an underwater housing. Over time, however, the

adventure began when I was 12 years old. I love

of hammerhead sharks and humpback whales in

desire to have the best photo began to dominate,

observing the underwater life up close and I try to

the Tonga Islands. He participates in specialist

which was not quite possible with the compact

show other divers how fascinating the underwa-

photographic workshops. He has been diving for

he used. That's why he switched to the Olympus

ter, Baltic creatures are.

27 years, he started at the age of 12 – as soon as

PEN E-PL 5 reflex camera, which allows the use of

it was formally possible. He was the first in the

several different lenses. He uses a combination

world to use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for

of underwater flashes and lights. He focuses on

underwater macro photography. Recently, in the

wildlife photography, not arrangement. He photo-

remote Chincorro archipelago on the border be-

graphs in fresh domestic waters as well as in the

tween Mexico and Belize, he did it again, taking

seas and oceans of the world.

a successful attempt to photograph the eye of

He has already won numerous awards at Czech

a crocodile with a macro lens with an additional

and foreign photography competitions. More

magnifying lens, which is the world's largest photo

photos can be found on his website, where you

of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of

can also buy them not only as photos, but also as

pixel count, print size, quality).

photos printed on canvas or on another medium. www.mokrefotky.cz www.facebook.com/MichalCernyPhotography www.instagram.com/michalcerny_photography/

constant cooperation

WOJCIECH JAROSZ

AGNIESZKA KALSKA

BARTOSZ PSZCZÓŁKOWSKI

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Acad-

”I can't imagine living without water, where in a free

That's my name and I come from Poznań. I have

emy of Physical Education (coaching specializa-

body I experience freedom of the spirit.”

been associated with water practically from birth

tion – handball) and the University of A.Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biology). He connected his professional life with this first university trying to influence the direction of development of future professionals on the one hand, and on the other planning and implement-

• founder of the first freediving and swimming school in Poland – FREEBODY, • Apnea Academia International and PADI Master Freediver freediving instructor, • world record holder in freediving (DYN 253 m),

and with diving since I learned to walk. My grandfather instilled my passion for the underwater world, a CMAS*** instructor taking me to the lakes at any free time. I obtained my first qualifications in 1996. A year later I went to Croatia and literally went crazy at the sight of blue wa-

ing research, pushing laboriously in the right di-

• record holder and Polish champion, member

ter, octopus and colorful fish;) I bought my first

rection of the stroller called science. In his free

of the national team in freediving 2013–2019,

underwater camera – Olympus 5060 and started

time he spends his time actively – his main pas-

• winner of the World Championships in freed-

the adventure with underwater photography. I ac-

sions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill

iving 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018,

quired my diving experience in the Canary Islands,

skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational

• multimedalist of the Polish Championships

Sardinia, Norway, Maldives and in Polish lakes.

diving and many other activities, as well as pho-

and a member of the national team in swim-

I am currently a Padi and ESA instructor, I train

tography, mainly nature.

ming in the years 1998–2003,

diving enthusiasts in Europe and pass my passion

• passionate about freediving and swimming.

on to others. I invite all lovers of the underwater world and photography to Beediver (FB) – see you soon.

SYLWIA KOSMALSKA-JURIEWICZ

IRENA KOSOWSKA

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature.

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Polska,

A graduate of journalism and a lover of good liter-

diving and first aid instructor, technical diver and

ature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes

cave diver. In love with all flooded, dark, cold,

a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian.

tight places and invariably from the beginning

Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and

of the diving route – in the Baltic. Implementing

their protection are especially close to her heart.

the DAN mission, he conducts a series of lectures

She writes about the subject in numerous articles

”Dive safely” and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field

and on her blog www.divingandtravel.pl. She be-

research of divers for scientific purposes.

gan her adventure with diving fifteen years ago by total coincidence. Today she is a Divemaster, she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 continents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is a co-founder.

+48 502 138 403 http://www.deepdivingslesin.pl/ baza-nurkowa-honoratka/

DIVING CENTER DIVING SCHOOL

DIVING CENTER

Głębokie Lake Lubuskie

@bazanurkowaextremedivelubuskie extreme-dive.pl

our authors

JAKUB BANASIAK

KLAUDYNA BRZOSTOWSKA

KURT STORMS

Diver from 2008. Passionate of the Red Sea and

PADI diving instructor and videographer. She

Belgium Military, underwater cave explorer and

pelagic ocean predators. Devoted to the idea of

spends most of his time in the water documenting

active technical/ cave/ rebreather diving instruc-

protecting dolphins, sharks and whales. He dives

a fascinating underwater world. She graduated

tor for IANTD. He started his diving career in Egypt

mainly where you can meet these animals and

from the Academy of Fine Arts in the field of Fash-

on vacation, and his passion continues. Kurt is

monitor the level of their well-being. Member of

ion Design in Łódź and Film studies at the Adam

also the founder and CEO of Descent Technical

Dolphinaria-Free Europe Coalition, volunteer at

Mickiewicz University in Poznań, trained as a tai-

Diving.

Tethys Research Institute and Cetacean Research

lor, and with a love of nature and a large dose of

He dives on several CCRs such as AP, SF2, Dive-

& Rescue Unit, associate of Marine Connection. For

adrenaline. She loves everything related to water.

soft Liberty SM. Kurt is involved in the creation of

10 years he has been involved in research on wild

Her diving adventure began with a backpacking

the document about the new salt mine in Belgium

dolphin populations and audits dolphinariums.

trip in 2016. During her stay in Thailand she dived

(Laplet). This project was featured in the news on

Together with the team ”NO! For the Dolphinari-

for the first time and from then on she got hooked

Nationale TV.

um” he prevents dolphins from captivity and pro-

on at this sport. Spending the last years and most

Privately, Kurt's true passion is deep cave diving.

motes knowledge about dolphin therapy unsaid

of her days under water, teaching and showing

His wife (Caroline) shares her husband's passions

or concealed by centers which make money on

the beauty of the underwater world in Asia, she

and also dives in caves. In his free time, he visits

this form of animal therapy.

believes that diving means unity – unity with own

Belgian slate mines, and when he is not exploring,

mind, nature and unusual creatures.

he takes his camera to document the dives.

@waterographyk

ZBIGNIEW ROGOZIŃSKI

SZYMON MOSAKOWSKI

A passionate and enthusiast of diving, he photo-

Student of archeology at the Nicolaus Copernicus

graphs amateurly and likes to know what he sees

University in Toruń. A beginner diver starting his

under the water, what are the names of the an-

adventure with underwater archeology. A lover of

imals he calls and what stories hide the wrecks.

photography, nature and basketball, and recently

He has been diving since 2009, getting the PADI

also diving.

Instructor Assistant degree, and in 2010 he and his friends opened a diving school and Wolsztyn Diving Club Bad Fish.

Rehasport - motor medicine

MAKE AN APPOINTMENT

ONLINE Specialty or name City

Find injury Select the body part in which you feel pain.

www.rehasport.pl PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

travels

Galapagos THE REPUBLIC OF ANIMALS part 2

Text Anna Sołoducha Land photos Jarosław Gołembiewski Underwater photos Łukasz Metrycki

travels

ravelling over 100 nautical miles from Isabela Island, on the 5 December 2021 we arrived at one of the most famous dive sites in the Pacific Ocean. It was already beginning to dawn when two volcanic pillars appeared to my eyes, a remnant of the erosion that had taken place six months earlier – on 17 May 2021. The famous Darwin's Arch is an iconic site, famous around the world. The eroded remains of a forgotten eruption mark the position of an oval reef that plunges to a considerable depth. "The Pillars of Evolution", or what remains after the collapse of the rock arch, are located about 1 km from the island, which is the summit of an undersea volcano over 1,000 metres high that was active between 1.6 million and 400 thousand years ago. But it was not the pillars or the island itself that were the focus of our safari, but what we were about to see underwater... Source Aggressor

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

travels

The gradually descending slope is covered with huge boul-

350 encounters with whale sharks were recorded in the Darwin

ders and the currents hit the wide, rocky edge of the reef be-

Island area, and as a result of the spread of diving – this num-

fore spreading out in all directions. No matter where we en-

ber has increased rapidly, what we experienced personally 

tered the water, we hit the currents, so we still had to descend

But Darwin Island is not just about whale shark encounters.

the boulders and admire countless moray eels before reaching

The 3-metre-long Galápagos sharks, weighing about 47 kg, are

a sandy channel...

found in groups, hunting cephalopods, sea lions, marine igua-

During the very first dive off Darwin Island, while drifting,

nas, smaller sharks, and bonefish! It is not easy to meet this

a shadow suddenly emerged from the depths. The shadow

species of shark, but the Galápagos is one of the places where

of something unusually large. A 15-metre whale shark swam

we managed to see it! :)

straight towards us. Resembling a bus, it glided through the

The northernmost island of the Galápagos Archipelago is

undersea depths. It was incredible! The whale shark is the larg-

named after one of the most important scientific figures, the

est fish in the world and the largest representative of sharks.

founder of the theory of evolution – Charles Darwin, who made

One of only three non-predatory shark species in the world

the Galápagos Islands world famous. The young explorer's

that feeds on plankton, it seemed slow and sluggish. Noth-

journey aboard the Beagle in 1831–36 which inspired the fa-

ing could be further from the truth! It took us a while to see

mous theory, is one of the most widely known episodes in the

how fast this huge fish swims, trying to get a close-up view of

history of science. It was in the Galápagos Islands in the Pacific

its 10-centimeter-thick skin, covered with white, yellow, and

that Darwin saw the great tortoises and the now famous "Dar-

green spots arranged in regular rows. Although the whale

win's finches". The various species of finches differed in the

shark season is defined as May to late November, we saw it

shape of their beaks, indicating that they had different diets.

8 times! The pursuit resulted in reducing a few dozen bars in

Tortoises from many of the islands had different shaped cara-

our bottles...but what was happening underwater was beyond

paces. It was these clues spotted on the Galápagos Islands that

our wildest expectations! Interestingly, by 1980 alone, around

led Darwin to conclude that the diversity of life on Earth arose

travels

as an organic process of the inheritance

tered by others from the south, the Humboldt current has less impact there, and the

of change – or, as it was later called, evo-

water is slightly warmer (about 24°C). Unfortunately, even when the surface tem-

lution – and that the mechanism under-

perature is 28°C, the thermoclines at depth can still be icy, but this ceases to matter

lying this process was natural selection.

when the underwater spectacle begins...

The result of this journey (but not only)

(…) And then happens what you are waiting for, what I was waiting for 10 years. What

was the publication of a book on the or-

I read, wrote, told while organizing diving trips. Pictures that I knew by heart from vari-

igin of species and convincing everyone

ous websites. What was my dream, so distant, and for many years – unattainable. What

(except the hierarchy of the Anglican

20 years ago, completing my first OWD course – I did not even dream about.

Church) that it was true ;) There is no point in travelling all the

TONS OF SHARKS. HAMMERHEAD SHARKS. Not a few, or a dozen, to be admired for a few minutes, usually at great depth. This was

way to the Galápagos and not seeing the

the "water march" of the rulers of this land, the republic of animals. Several dozens of

two northernmost islands – Wolf and the

them were swimming over our heads for 20–30 minutes, in fact, until we had to contin-

previously mentioned Darwin. They are

ue diving and leave this spectacle. It was pure magic, a phenomenon. 2-3-meter-long

considered to be the perfect place for

hammerheads were swimming endlessly in front of us and I...? I felt accomplished. (…)

diving in the archipelago – and there is no exaggeration in that ;) Wolf can only be reached by liveaboard after an overnight sail north from the central islands, while Darwin is at least another four hours away. These volcanic and rocky landmasses are home only to red-footed boobies, or frigatebirds gliding above. There is no way for me to go ashore on any of the islands. Sitting at the foot of the steep cliffs of Wolf Island, behind an emerging peak, when we looked down from the zodiac at the water, we could see that the currents were absolutely terrifying. The site itself is magnificent – a wall of very large boulders, criss-crossed by a dozen caves. Due to the fact that both islands are located far to the north and are shel-

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

travels

They emerged from the depths one by one, a whole herd. Huge hammerhead sharks, several metres long, boast stereoscopic vision, which allows them to judge distances perfectly and to see depths.

Nobody really knows how many there were. They emerged

sharks. There were at least thirty of them in the depths, but

from the depths one by one, a whole herd. Huge hammerhead

often it was only the tip of the iceberg. It is worth going deep-

sharks, several metres long, boast stereoscopic vision, which

er, because then we have the best view of dozens of sharks

allows them to judge distances perfectly and to see depths.

swimming above our heads, but be careful – the water can be

The disadvantage of this ability, however, is that the angle of

colder there! Heading up the slope, we met a local shoal of

vision is severely restricted. Most animals with both eyes at the

spotted eagle rays swimming past to look at the divers and

front of the head can only see about 100° horizontally. If the

expose themselves to the frolicking bubbles ;) Gradually re-

eyes are on the sides of the head, the range of the visual angle

ducing in depth, we encountered sea lions again, like by the

can approach up to 270°. The hammerhead shark is unique

central islands of the archipelago, as well as giant green turtles

in this respect! Its distinctive head structure enables it to see

hiding in crevices! Interestingly (but sadly at the same time) –

stereoscopically, and its field of vision covers 360°. Such a large

the turtle's name does not come from the colour of its shell,

angle of vision makes it possible to avoid being attacked by

but from the colour of its fat, which was extracted after it was

the predator, regardless of its direction, also the fact that we,

killed, during the "whaling era". Somewhere in the blue abyss,

the divers, were spotted long before we managed to spot the

we also managed to see silky sharks! So much adrenaline, so

herd ourselves.

many emotions and so many animals on one dive – that I have

On the other side of Wolf Island, an old rockslide has formed

never experienced before in my life!!!

a gentle underwater slope, which descends to about 200 m.

A green, white, and blue flag flies at the flagpole of Ag-

Traversing the mighty boulders in the chimney often requires

gressor III. The colours symbolise fertile soil, dry lowlands,

a careful, slow descent to find yourself at the bottom (not at

and the ocean, respectively. This is the landscape of the vol-

200 m of course – editor's note) by an open channel. Stopping

canic Galápagos Islands. Six large, 13 medium and 215 small

at about 20 metres, sitting down between the rock chunks,

islands make up the archipelago, about which much has

we began to observe the approaching flocks of hammerhead

been written.

travels

The Galápagos Islands are said to have been discovered by people living off the coast of Ecuador and Peru in pre-Columbi-

gland. However, they did not settle here permanently due to the lack of fresh water.

an times, but they were never colonised. Instead, the discovery

The islands gradually gained in popularity – in the 17th and

of the archipelago by Europeans was entirely accidental. In

18th centuries, the first navigational charts, nature studies

1535, the bishop of Panama, at the behest of King Charles V

and the first scientific expeditions began. Unfortunately, the

of Spain, travelled to Peru to settle a dispute that had aris-

19th century brought a real environmental disaster – whalers.

en between Francisco Pizzaro and his subordinates after the

They began to kill turtles on a massive scale for their meat,

conquest of the Incan State. The ship was immobilised by the

collecting them on ships. This was "living canned food" – be-

windless weather and then carried off towards land. The crew

cause even after several months on board without water or

went ashore to look for drinking water, but they found nothing

food, turtles were the perfect ingredient for soup... Between

but turtles and sea lions. Thus, on 10 March 1535, the acciden-

1811 and 1844, more than 700 whaling ships sailed to the

tal discovery of the islands was made by a white man. 11 years

Galápagos Islands for turtle meat. According to the ship's

later, another ship arrived at the coast of the Galápagos, this

logs, 15,000 tortoises were taken from the archipelago, but

time a fugitive from Peru, Captain Diego Rivadeneira, who, unable to reach land, called the archipelago the "Enchanted Islands" because they seemed to be constantly moving away. 35 years after this event, the first maps were drawn up – by the cartographer Gerard Mercator (creator of the cylinder grid) and Abraham Ortelius – cartographer, geographer, and map publisher. It was Ortelius who gave the islands the name they still bear today. "Galápagos" comes from the Spanish language and means "saddle". The cartographer named the turtles so, because of the shape of their shells, and so the name of the archipelago – the islands where the turtles live – was derived from them. For the next 2 centuries, the islands were uninhabited. At the end of the 16th century, the islands became a hideout and also a base for pirates from Holland and En-

Photo Łukasz Metrycki PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

travels

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

in the end, 100,000 were probably taken. In 1890, the Galápagos fur seals were declared extinct... Fortunately, the second half of the 20th century, and then the 21st century, marked the beginning of the protection of the natural environment, with the creation of National Parks, marine reserves, and the inclusion of the islands on the UNESCO List! Thanks to these measures, the Galápagos Islands boast numerous endemic species – over 80% of all land birds, 97% of land reptiles and mammals, over 20% of marine species, and 30% of all plants found on the islands are endemic! However, about 4 million years ago, the volcanic islands were completely devoid of life. So where did land animals come from on an island that was never connected to the mainland? Where did endemic and native plant species come from? It turns out that only a few species could survive such a long journey. This shows the superiority of sea birds, sea mammals, and... reptiles, over land mammals. It is likely that reptiles arrived on the islands on natural plant rafts, carried by sea currents. It follows from this theory that reptiles dominate – taking the usual position of mammals in the ecosystem. Reptiles, unlike mammals, can survive for extended periods without food and water, withstanding long exposure to the sun. Interestingly, there are no amphibians on the islands of the archipelago due to the lack of fresh water! As for plants – the seeds were carried on the wings of insects or in the stomachs of birds! All this land never ceases to amaze. It is also well known that the animals living in the Galápagos are not afraid of humans. They are completely devoid of any defensive reflex or fear, because on any of the islands – there have never been predators, so native and endemic species do not know the feeling of fear. This makes the Galápagos a true "Republic of Animals".

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The shell of the Galápagos tortoise can reach a length of 150 cm and a weight of 200 kg. The record "specimen" measured 187 cm and weighed 400 kg! Photo Łukasz Metrycki

Talking about the archipelago, it is impossible not to men-

The streets, paths and coastlines of the Galápagos Islands

tion the islands' emblematic species – the Galápagos giant tor-

are full of animals. The town of Puerto Ayora, located in the

toise. The shell of the Galápagos tortoise can reach a length of

south of Santa Cruz Island, resembles a sleepy seaside oasis.

150 cm and a weight of 200 kg. The record "specimen" mea-

However, when we reach the fish market, the madness begins.

sured 187 cm and weighed 400 kg! Their size is due to the lack

Pelicans, seagulls, sea lions and iguanas are the main "clients"

of competition and potential enemies. Galápagos tortoises live

of the vendors here! Shoving each other, not paying attention

about 100 years in the wild, 170 in the reserve, and some live up

to tourists or buyers – they were lining up "under the counter"

to 300 years! Due to the special status of this reptile, there are

waiting for them to find some food ;) You will not find such

"Tortoise Breeding and Rearing Centres" and reserves on the

a view anywhere else in the world!

islands, such as Santa Cruz and San Cristobal. In these centres, tortoises are bred and propagated, and environmental protection is promoted and educated. When a female tortoise lays her eggs, centre staff identify the nest and dig it up to ensure that as many younglings as possible hatch under controlled and safe conditions. As the tortoises grow, they gradually become accustomed to living on their own, but before they are released into the wild, they undergo mandatory quarantine so as not to infect the wild population. Currently, there are 11 species of tortoises, out of the 15 that used to be found in the archipelago. They have different types of carapaces – from domed to saddle-like. The different species have adapted to eating grass or higher-growing shrubs thanks to their more open carapace and long neck. Their legs resemble those of an elephant. One of the most famous tortoises is Diego – imported from San Diego, California, to save the tortoise population in the 1960s. By 2016 alone, Diego had given life to over 800 offspring, becoming the hero of a subspecies doomed to extinction!

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The Galápagos penguin, inhabiting mainly the islands of Fernandina and Isabela, is the second smallest penguin species in the world, and the only one inhabiting the northern hemisphere, due to the equator crossing the Isabela Island! We did not manage to meet the species underwater while diving

Photo Łukasz Metrycki

or snorkelling, but during a zodiac trip to the above-mentioned islands, we watched whole flocks of penguins clumsily treading on the rocky coast. Our constant companions during the stay in the Galápagos were albatrosses, lava gulls and frigatebirds! The lava gull, or "dusky gull" is one of the rarest gulls in the world. Its colouring is reminiscent of solidified lava, which helps it hide from predators or from "competition" when foraging. Frigatebirds are one of the largest seabirds. They get their name from their inflating purple throat sack, which, when filled with air, resembles a frigate's sail in the wind. When describing birds found in the Galápagos, it is impossible not to mention the blue-footed booby! Known throughout the world, "boobies" or "blue-footed gannets" measure less than 100 cm in height and weigh up to 2 kg. They feed on fish, for which they dive as deep as 20 metres! Their distinctive feature is the incredible blue colouration of their legs. The blue colour of the silly paws is provided by a special pigment – a carotenoid. It is constantly produced in the body thanks to a diet rich in fresh marine fish. Additionally, this pigment is an antioxidant and stimulates the immune system. As a result, the colour of the feet of a young and healthy bird will be much brighter. The blue feet of males play a significant role during the mating season. Females prefer males with blue feet and neglect males whose feet are blue grey. Well, the animal world is governed by its own laws ;) In modern times, the archipelago is known as the "Galápagos". The larger islands have both Spanish and English names. The English names were given

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Wyprawy nurkowe Miejsce WYBIERZ KIERUNEK

Termin Cel wyprawy after British noble families (Albe-

ter, in the air or on the coast of each

marle), pirates (Bindloe or Ewres) or

island. They are the ornaments and

ships (Beagle, Indefatigable) and the

symbols of this place, which – thanks

Spanish after places like Santa Cruz

to them – was, is and always will be

or San Salvador. Each of the major

the most unique place on Earth.

islands is special and unique at the

And I was there.

same time, and it is impossible not to recommend visiting any of them. You will see countless species of en-

30.11.2022

demic plants, volcano craters, kapok trees, manchineel trees, guavas, Palo Santo, fumaroles (lava tunnels), white sand beaches like the famous Tortuga on the island of Santa Cruz, or green stretches of grass. In spite of this diverse landscape, there is one common feature – ANIMALS. They give the rhythm of life here; they are the lords and masters of this land. We meet them in the bays, in the cities, on the paths, underwa-

No area on Earth of comparable size has inspired more fundamental changes in Man’s perspective of himself and his environment than the Galápagos Islands.

Galapagos Galapagos - nurkowa wyprawa życia

WIĘCEJ WYPRAW >>

Robert Bowman, Contributions to Science from the Galapagos

www.activtour.pl 607 777 538 PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

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YUCATAN

DIFFERENTLY Text and photos Zbigniew Rogoziński

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The Yucatan Peninsula is washed on two sides by the waters of the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. The second largest barrier reef system in the world is located in the waters of this latter basin.

20 kilometres from the city of Playa del Carmen, and it was these reefs that were our first diving destination. To dive on one of the more than 40 places available along Cozumel (most of the spots are located in the Cozumel Reefs National Marine Park), we went by boat from the vicinity of our hotel. Boats sailing for dives dock a dozen or so meters from

the shore, so in order to get to them, we first had to complete exico, and especially the Yucatan peninsula, reminds

several courses, moving equipment from the beach to the

me (and not only me) of cave dives and cenotes. It

boat, wading in the water to the waist. It took our boat about

is not surprising, because this region is a real par-

an hour to reach the places on the reefs of Cozumel, which

adise for this type of diving. There is no point in mentioning

we thoroughly used to clarify the equipment, although at the

the names of the most popular dive sites visited by tens of

speed at which we slid on the waves, it was not an easy task.

thousands of divers coming here every year, because almost

Our two reef dives took place along the underwater walls,

everyone who practises this sport knows them. However,

which descended vertically to the bottom lying at a depth of

just immersing yourself in these natural wells and penetrat-

about 100 m. Swimming, or rather, getting carried away by

ing miles of underground corridors is not all this region has

a fairly strong current, we passed over the beautiful structures

to offer underwater explorers. If someone would like to take

of corals, huge coloured sponges, among which hundreds of

a break between visiting other caves, and still would like

other creatures were moving. Turtles, morays, stingrays, reef

to dive, there are places that can delight and thrill those who

sharks and crawfish are just some of the inhabitants of this

decide to visit them.

place, which we managed to spot during two, one-hour long

The Yucatan Peninsula is washed on two sides by the waters

dives. This healthy and diverse ecosystem provides a safe

of the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. The second larg-

environment for more than 600 species of marine creatures,

est barrier reef system in the world is located in the waters of

including a few that are nowhere else on earth.

this latter basin. The Great Mesoamerican Coral Reef stretches

In addition to snooping around the barrier reef, you can

over 5,000 miles along the coasts of Mexico, Belize, Guatemala,

also try something else here. The waters around Cozumel,

and Honduras. One of the elements of this huge structure are

for a reason, are not particularly known as a wreck dive site.

the reefs located on the island of Cozumel, which is located

Most of the ships that sank in the rough coastal waters lie

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at depths inaccessible to any diver, and shallow wrecks are destroyed by seasonal storms and tropical hurricanes, which quite often pass through the area. Fortunately, there are several sunken ships breaking out of this pattern. One such wreck is the gunship C-53 Felipe Xicotencatl. The ship US Scuffles, which was originally the name and class of the ship, was built at the Wilson Marine Shipworks in Tampa in 1943. Immediately after the launch, the unit was sent to the Pacific, where it served until the end of World War II, clearing minefields and providing protection for transports from attacks by Japanese aircraft and submarines. At the end of the war, in 1946, she was removed from service and sold to the Mexican Navy. After arriving in Mexico, the ship was converted into an Admiral-type gunship and renamed C-53 Felipe Xicotancatl. For the next 37 years, from 1962 to 1999, the ship patrolled the Gulf of Mexico and the Mexican Caribbean Sea, serving rescue missions and searching for arms and drug traffickers. After 55 years at sea, C-53 was permanently withdrawn from service, and then, together with two other ships, was sunk as elements of an artificial reef. Thus, the wrecks became diving attractions, which allowed to reduce traffic on nearby reefs. After descending to the surface, you can almost immediately see a wreck standing on an even keel, on the bottom, located at a depth of over 20 meters, over 56 meters. The ship was sunk in a place that allows easy access for divers visiting it, at a safe distance from the reef, in an area shielded from strong currents. Looking at this rather large wreck, it is hard to imagine the strength of the hurricane of 2005, which almost tore and moved the unit on the sandy bottom by more than 100 meters!!! Before the sinking, the ship was specially prepared for diving purposes. In addition to thorough cleaning of the unit, all wires and pipes were removed, and

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holes in the sides were cut to facilitate its penetration. There are not many deposits inside and outside the wreckage. This, as well as easy access to the interior and a small depth, encourages you to explore every corner of the ship during which you can see its inhabitants. In the 16 years since the sinking, this artificial structure has become home to various marine organisms. Sponges, anemone and corals have already taken over the decks and sides, forming dense colonies. During our diving inside the gunship, we saw really large crabs, crawfish, morays and glassfish shoals hanging in the corridors. In one of the cabins, there were hundreds of small, colourless shrimps, who did not know why they chose this place. Swimming around

about 25 meters, and waited for the sharks swimming in this

the wreckage, we encountered barracudas floating in the blue

place. We were holding the rope fixed to the bottom, which

and large dusky groupers, and all of them were among a lot

helped us maintain our position despite the light current. The

of smaller fish, looking for a safe hiding place in the recesses

base that organised our dives doesn't lure sharks into bait

of this artificial reef.

boxes. This does not help in taking good photos, because

The local waters hide another attraction for divers. Be-

these dangerous predators are rather shy and do not get too

tween November and March, in the waters near Playa del

close to divers for no reason, but personally I am not in fa-

Carmen, there are female bull sharks that come here to give

vour of teaching sharks to associate people with food ;). After

birth. This opportunity was, of course, used by diving bases,

several minutes of waiting at the bottom, we only managed

which introduced diving with bull sharks to their offer. Our

to see the outlines of their silhouettes circulating at the bor-

diving with these predators took place from a boat, less than

der of our sight. So we decided to swim away from the rope

400 meters from the beach. Despite such a short distance,

and look for them. Such tactics proved effective. Swimming

at which we met those considered to be the most aggressive

over the bottom, out of a sandy hill, we managed to surprise

sharks, from tourists resting on the beaches, so far no attacks

sharks several times, which, however, completely ignored us

on people have been recorded here. The plan for our dive

and quickly disappeared in the blue. Nevertheless, it is worth

was simple. We went down to the sandy bottom, at a depth of

to spend a few dollars to see these beautiful animals in their

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Swimming along a tangle of mangroves or tunnels, formed under a layer of peat pierced by mangrove roots, takes your breath away.

connects to the open sea. This close and direct connection to the open ocean means that you can find here a very diverse fauna, both fresh and saltwater. Descending under the surface of the water, the uniqueness of this place is immediately noticeable. Swimming along a tangle of mangroves or tunnels, formed under a layer of peat pierced by mangrove roots, takes your breath away. On top of this you have an amazing game of lights and thousands of fish, from little dwarf cichlid and Yucatan mollies to really big tarpons. You feel like you're diving under the jungle. At the bottom, we met beautifully coloured blue crabs every now and then, which escaped to the side as we approached them. Another name for this place is Cenote Manati, because these large mammals used to visit this place.

natural environment and write such a dive into your diving

It is too bad that it hardly happens anymore. At the end of

CV :)

its "river section", the bottom of Casa Cenote becomes more

During our stay in Mexico, in the vicinity of the city of Tulum,

rocky, with lots of cracks and caves. In one of these rock cham-

we visited another place where you can "take a break" from

bers, our guide showed us the skeleton of a sea turtle, which

cave dives, but not exactly. Casa Cenote, because we are talking

proves that this place is also visited by marine inhabitants. The

about it, is a place which, despite its name, resembles a river

closer you get to the sea, the more salt water flows with tides

which, by the way, does not occur in the Yucatan, rather than

into this natural reservoir, and mixing with the fresh water that

a typical cenote. The water from the underwater caves flows

feeds the reservoir, it creates a halocline that blurs everything

to the surface here, and then, meandering along the shores

around you and creates wonderful light effects. Despite the

covered with mangroves, disappears again underground after

lack of manatees, this cenote has its "pet" that we met during

a few hundred meters, and then through the sunken corridors

our dive. Panchito, this is the two-metre Morelet's crocodile,

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who lives in this cenote. Unfortunately, just like bull sharks, it is rather shy and after a quick swim over our heads, it hid in the tangle of mangrove roots. At the end of the dive, however, we managed to track it down and take a short photo session, although our model did not intend to help us much. If someone still feels a lack of satisfaction as for the Yucatan attractions and communing with its nature, I suggest you take a trip to the Rio Lagartos reserve. The reserve is located on the northern coast of the Yucatan on the waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Within 60,000 hectares of the park, there are forests, dunes, mangrove forests, estuaries and 60 kilometers of beaches. The most popular form of visiting this place is a boat trip with a local guide. We sailed out of the fishing village with the same name as the reserve. During the two-hour tour, you

let go of the first option (the water was too cold), I managed

can see hundreds of birds that live here 388 species: cormo-

to confirm the version with stroking and I can still count on my

rants, pelicans, black eagles, herons, ibis, vultures, ospreys and

fingers to ten. The best attraction of this place is an amazing

flamingos – these are just some of those that we managed

arthropod inhabiting the local waters, a horseshoe crab, which

to spot. In addition to birds, many species of mammals, fish,

unfortunately we did not manage to see during our cruise.

amphibians and reptiles also live here, including two species

Flying to Mexico, I was focused on diving in cenotes and

of crocodiles: American and Mexican (Morelet's crocodile).

caves, treating other destinations as an interlude. On the spot,

According to our guide, the local crocodiles are harmless and

however, it turned out that while diving underground not only

you can swim with them or pat them on the head. While we

the Yucatan can delight.

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IN THE LAND OF DRAGONS Text Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz Photos Adrian Juriewicz

Lion Air's red-and-white turbo propeller plane struggles to take off from the ground at Denpasar Airport. Everything is shaking, and we soar into the air in a vibrating rhythm.

lowly, the turbulence stops, the plane reaches the cruising altitude, and the fasten seat belt indicator lights are off. The flight from Denpasar to Flores takes an hour

and a half, the world from the window of the plane looks phenomenal, clouds take unusual shapes and are constantly transforming. In the morning we land at the airport in Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores, the air temperature exceeds 35°C. After leaving the plane, we are hit by hot. This air is so familiar to me

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After getting acquainted with the yacht manager, crew and rules of the boat, we are divided into three diving groups, blue, red and black. Each of us receives a plastic box into which we put all the diving equipment. Boat workers cover every element of our equipment with coloured tapes (each colour corresponds to the group to which we were assigned) so that the crew does not confuse the equipment when putting it on the zodiacs (small operational boats). The Komodo National Park is a unique place in terms of fauna and flora that occur here. On the northern side, sea currents can be strong and very unpredictable, which means that large fish, turtles, tuna, sharks, eagle rays come here. On the south side we can also meet large animals, but above all we will dive among incredibly colourful corals, which delight with an intense, nearly fluorescent colour even at considerable depths without additional artificial light. Diving in the Komodo National Park is not the easiest thing due to strong, changing currents, but it is definitely one of the most beautiful and diverse diving in the world. We had a companion on our cruise, a woman called Hope, who, as we learned during a short conversation, decided to fulfill her biggest dream being retired. For as long as she can remember, she has wanted to become a diver, the underwater world has fascinated her since she was a child. However, the fear of immersing her head under the surface of the water was so strong that she put off her dream for an unspecified time later. Two years air, it is saturated with the smell of the sea, sun-scorched veg-

ago, after her husband died, she enrolled in a diving course,

etation and earth. We very efficiently collect the luggage and

and after completing it, she rented her house in Australia and

head to the exit, get on the bus and drive 10 minutes to the

went out into the world... Since then, she has been on the

port. The road is narrow, winding and very picturesque. We

road all the time, and since her health is good, she sails al-

stop at the parking lot, right next to the moored boats. After

ready on the third cruise on this wonderful boat. In her spare

a while, porters appear next to us, who carry our bags to a mo-

time between dives she weaves coloured friendship brace-

tor boat. We also get on it and in the blink of an eye we are on

lets, which relaxes her as much as diving. I like to observe

a beautiful, blue and white sailing ship, which two days ago

Hope when she elaborately creates the colorful patterns of

I saw in a photo on the Internet.

her small masterpieces, which she later gives to the crew and

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guests. Sometimes in life it's not about getting to the goal

that surrounds me, the peace and beauty of nature. I turn my

but just daring to set off... We sail from the port in the eve-

face to the rising sun and gratefully enter a new day. A day

ning, when the sun slowly sinks into the sea, leaving behind

off from social networks, e-mails, messengers and the whole

the orange-pink memory of the previous day. The boat stops

number of applications, that I use every day. No coverage, no

only when on the horizon there are uplifts, gentle mountain

Internet: it's a real detox from social media.

chains rising straight from the sea. In the monsoon season,

There is undisturbed silence on board, everyone is still

the slopes of the mountains are overgrown with lush grass,

asleep, only Ketut one of the crew members, responsible

now, in the dry season, green meadows turned into barren

for the order in the kitchenette, is bustling around the deck.

steppes. Here and there, on the slopes of the hills, we see

He takes out his toasters, puts together mugs, brews coffee

trees that rise above us like guardians of these extraordinary

and smiles at me, saying good morning. The air fills with the

uplifts. There is silence all around, interrupted by the sounds

wonderful aroma of freshly brewed coffee. Ketut was born in

of animals and gentle waves hitting the side of the ship. An

Bali near Ubud (the cultural capital of Bali). Every day at dawn

anchor has been thrown into the sea, a thick chain slowly

he makes gifts to his gods. He puts flowers, cookies, candies

disappears into the dark, navy blue abyss. We stay here for

and coins into a square basket of palm leaves. He lights the

the night, tomorrow morning we dive nearby, and now it's

incense and sprinkles everything with water from a sacred

time for dinner. The table on the upper deck was covered

source, which he stores in a small glass bottle. Finally, he puts

with a white tablecloth and white tableware, and the nap-

a flower between the two fingers of his right hand and makes

kins were arranged in lotus flowers. We enjoy the evening as

beautiful harmonious movements with it. He directs his at-

well as the excellent dishes that were served to us. The next

tention to the heart and in concentration he begins to speak

morning I wake up before dawn, the watch indicates 5:40,

his requests to the ancestors, and they pass them on to God.

and I, as quietly as I can, on tiptoes, climb the wooden stairs

There is not one rule of prayer, everyone devotes their prayers

to the upper deck. I take a deep breath and enjoy the space

and intentions to what they believe. Balinese Hinduism – that's

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On the surface, the Komodo is calm, as if it held its breath for a moment, but as soon as we plunge under the surface of the water, we discover a completely different world.

what the local religion is called, which is mostly confessed by

my lungs and the wing and slowly begin to fall down. Along

the inhabitants of Bali, borrowed a lot of elements from Bud-

with us, a sea turtle submerges, which swam to the surface

dhism and animist local beliefs.

to get some air. We immerse ourselves together for a mo-

Slowly the deck begins to teem with life, gentle yawns,

ment, but after a while the turtle floats away and disappears

sleepy good mornings, coffee, toasts, yogurt and fresh fruit,

among the beautiful corals. We stop at 20 meters just above

this is what our early breakfast looked like. It means we eat

the sandy bottom, which grows both soft and hard corals.

some snack fast before the first dive of the morning. The boat

Among them, there are shrimps, tiny, transparent creatures,

manager hits the bell several times, thus waking up the oth-

which are difficult to see with the unaided eye. My attention

er participants of the cruise. After breakfast, we take part in

is drawn to a green-orange nudibranch with small protrusions

a briefing, today we dive three times. Our cruise lasts seven

on the head, which form a coloured plume. Its appearance

days and is planned in detail, but it may change slightly if the

fascinated me to such an extent that as I approached the

current in a given dive site turns out to be too strong and we

snail I did not notice a small anemone that appeared next

will not be able to go underwater. Then we will change the spot

door. Almost immediately, its inhabitants came to me: two

to a different one. During our stay on the boat we will visit the

clownfish, also known as Nemo fish. The anemones began

most beautiful dive destinations in this area such as Sebayor,

to attack and nibble on my diving mask. In this way, they

Tatawa Besar, Gili Lawa, Tatawa Kecil, Mawan, Shotgun, Batu

wanted to scare off the intruder, who got dangerously close

Bolong, Karang Makassar, Manta Alley, Loh Sera.

to them. The clownfish defend their home in this way their

After the briefing, we put on wetsuits, the northern waters of Komodo are much warmer than in the south (from 21°C

home – that is the anemone in which they have lived their entire lives.

to 27°C). We get into zodiacs and sail to our first dive site

On the surface, the Komodo is calm, as if it held its breath

Sebayor, which is a perfect location for a check dive. After

for a moment, but as soon as we plunge under the surface of

reaching the place, we put on the diving equipment, sit on

the water, we discover a completely different world. A diverse

the side of the zodiac and jump into the water on the count

world, saturated with colours, vibrant and very unpredictable.

of four. At the beginning, the temperature difference between

Tatawa Beser is a place that is also ideal for a check dive, but

air (35°C) and water (27°C) causes a slight thermal shock, but

only when the sea currents are weak, or they don't exist at all.

after a while comes the state that I love most: the moment

If they appear then the dive turns into drifting over beautiful

when the body unites with water. I release all the air from

sponges and soft corals that teem with marine life. Today, the

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ments. A large group of people who came with us to Komodo had never seen these majestic creatures in their natural environment before. It is a great happiness and privilege to be able to dive with these magical creatures. Today, while diving in this location, five mantas arrived, they began to circulate over our heads, moving "wings" in a hurry. In moments like this, I very much regret that I cannot stay here for longer, under the surface of the water, surrounded by these majestic creatures and the world of peace, inspiration… The moment I saw the landscape of Loh Buaya National Park, I thought of Karen Blixen's book – “Farewell to Africa”. It is one of the most beautiful autobiographical novels I've ever read. Maybe the clime was very dry that time of the year, maybe it is because I could see in the background the incredibly beautiful view of mountains, but one thing is for sure, I felt there as if I were in Africa. To the National Park Loh Buaya we sail about 15 minutes by two

current is very strong, which makes blacktip sharks, octopuses

small wooden boats. We moor the boats in a tiny harbor and

and large shoals of fish appear.

descend the wooden stairs to the mainland. Welcome to Ko-

Karangan Makassar also called Manta point is a location

modo – National Park Loh Buaya, a large white inscription wel-

where you can meet manta rays all year round. Most often

comes us to the island of dragons. We walk along a narrow

they swim close to the surface to feed on plankton, or they

sandy road, along small hills. It's very hot, the air temperature

are at a depth of 15–17 m, where they undergo hygienic treat-

is over 30 degrees. We pass through a concrete gate supported

Under the wooden buildings, erected on piles, you can see dragons also called Komodo dragons. These unique reptiles are the largest lizards on earth. by two stone Komodo dragons. The sandy road leads us to several wooden buildings, where the rangers have their base (guardians and tour guides). Under the wooden buildings, erected on piles, you can see dragons also called Komodo dragons. These unique reptiles are the largest lizards on earth. The weight of adult individuals varies between 79–90 kg, and the length of the body is from 2.5 to 3 meters. They feed mainly on mammals, but there are also acts of cannibalism in their nests. Komodo dragons hunt by surprise, their saliva contains toxins that cause paralysis and, consequently, the death of the victim. Therefore, it is very important to follow all the rules of the reserve when visiting it. Together with the local guide, we slowly climb the highest mountain in the area. The rocky path is narrow, very winding. Only from this place can I see the incredible beauty that surrounds us. Apparently, our life is proof that miracles exist. Looking at the world around us, I believe that everything is a miracle...

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Lavezzi

TREASURE OF THE STRAIT OF BONIFACIO

A masked Scorpaena scrofa

Text and photos Klaudyna Brzostowska

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ast year I went on a several-month trip in a van around

Paolo Fossati, who was in Sardinia at the same time. He made

the nooks and crannies of Europe. I had with me a mo-

it extremely clear that I had to go to the Lavezzi Reef. And that

bile home, a dog that was almost a water dog and a cam-

was what I did. We went on a full-day trip. We sailed from the

era. During an unusual trip, I managed to find some interest-

port of Cannigione, which is located in the north of Sardinia,

ing diving sites. The Archipelago of Lavezzi turned to be

and after an hour of crossing the strait we reached the island

a unique surprise. The whole area has 2 km2 and consists

of Lavezzi. All the islands of the archipelago are granite islands,

of 8 uninhabited islands located in the Strait of Bonifa-

surrounded by pure turquoise-emerald water. This area was

cio – a body of water between Sardinia and Corsica. It is

established as a nature reserve in 1982. Since then, numerous

one of the most dangerous shipping destinations in the

studies on the management of fish stocks and the presence of

Mediterranean, due to the large number of reefs in the

seabirds have been carried out and continue to be carried out

narrow strait and strong sea currents. The archipelago ad-

there. This is a place very rich in fauna, flora and in tourists,

ministratively belongs to France, however, you can get to the

especially in the high season.

islands from both Corsica and from Sardinia. I got to Sardinia

The main diving attraction of the archipelago is Grouper

from France in my van. Actually, I got there by accident, on the

City. This place consists of massive granite boulders and walls

recommendation of my acquaintance, an Italian photographer

of fabulous reef, where corals impress with their colours and

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

travels

Peltodoris atromaculata enjoying its favourite food – sponge

shapes (at a depth of about 22 m you can admire impres-

This fish lives at cliff shores above the rocky bottom with nu-

sive gorgonians). Many years ago, dusky groupers that live

merous crevices and caverns. It can be found at a depth of

here were fed with eggs, which means that now every time

8 to 200 m. It usually spends its life in solitude within the

divers appear, fish swim up to people really close. Several

clearly marked territory that has a lot of hiding places – it

large specimens joined our team and we spent more than

usually stays inside them. That is why Grouper City is a unique

half of the time underwater with these curious individuals.

place. It is because here the dusky gropers, instead of hiding

The dusky grouper (Epinephelus marginatus) is a fish with

in caverns, they swim away from their pits, pose for photos

an average length of 1.5 m and an average weight of 60 kg.

and wait for the reward.

The main diving attraction of the archipelago is Grouper City. This place consists of massive granite boulders and walls of fabulous reef, where corals impress with their colours and shapes (at a depth of about 22 m you can admire impressive gorgonians).

Sphyraena barracuda in the depths near the island of Lavezzi

In addition to the aforementioned fish, the Lavezzi Archipelago has a lot of other interesting specimens of fauna to offer. You can often see a large shoal of barracudas, single eagle rays, masked scorpionfish and starved nudibranchs (including those commonly called sea cows). The archipelago is an ideal place for intermediate divers, as well as those experienced who are looking for impressions in the depths.

´ How to get there: by car from Poland and by ferry from Italy to Sardinia or Corsica, by plane from Poland to Sardinia or Corsica ´ Diving season: May – September ´ Water temperature:

5mm, and 7mm for those who dislike the cold; anyone who wants to, can put on a drysuit

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

FOT: KAROLATAKESPHOTOS

24 degrees Celsius ´ A wetsuit:

wrecks

SALEM EXPRESS Text and photos Kurt Storms 38

wrecks

HISTORY The Salem Express was launched in France in June 1965 under the name ‘Fred Scamaroni’ a member of the French resistance of WWII. The owner of the ship was The Compagnie Generale Transatlantique. She was a roll-on, Roll-off Ferry for vehicles and passengers in the Mediterranean. In June 1966, it began sailing its first route between Marseille – Ajaccio after being delayed for a fire in the engine room. The Ship was 115 m Long and 18m Wide. She was sold in 1988 to the Samatour shipping company and started running trips between Safaga and Jeddah

close to the shore to shave time of the journey, instead of the

under the name ‘Salem Express’.

longer route along the outer reefs. Unfortunately, the captain

In 1991 she began sailing her usual 450 mile journey from Jeddah, Saudi Arabia to Safaga,Egypt. The Trip would take about 36 hours, They intended to unload 350 passengers in Safaga before they heading to Suez.

misjudged their position, and at 11:31pm she ran out an outer pinnacle of Hyndman Reef. The result was Disastrous. Not only was water coming in from a hole in the starboard side, but the impact was hard, the impact caused that the bow

This route was a standard schedule since 1988. However,

loading door to open, letting thousand of liters of water in.

the ship’s departure was delayed for 2 days in Saudi Arabia

Almost immediately the ferry started to list over to the star-

because of a mechanical fault.

board side, making it impossible for the crew to deploy any of

On the 14th of December 1991 she was returning from

the lifeboats.

Jeddah with hundreds of pilgrims ho had just been to Mecca.

The Salem express under the command of Captain Hassan

A storm was blowing gale force and the people on the outer

Moro, who had the command from 1988, sank within 20 min-

decks were getting drenched, So the captain decided to stay

utes of hitting the reef. Manny people died trapped inside the

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

wrecks

DIVING THE SALEM EXPRESS wreck. Because there was a hard storm and the fact the

We reach the wreck by a decent line. She is lying on its port side and

tragedy occurred more than a hour from the port in the

make our way around the stern to the back, where we now have

middle of the night, rescue boats arrived much to late.

a good visibility on the 2 propellers. They are giants. Between the

More than 180 of the survivors had to swim to the shore.

propellers we see the rudder. After taking some pictures we go to

Loss of life was Considerable, with the official figure being

the decks, and we see the lifeboats on 30 m of depth. In the past

quoted as 464. Rumor suggest that the ship was overload

there where 2 lifeboats on the bottom. But now there is only one

and that the death toll was closer to 1200. Many bodies

left. Nobody knows where the second on is.

were recovered after the sinking, but eventually a halt was

I like wrecks, but I don’t like lifeboats on the bottom of the

called due to the danger involved and that the wreck was

ocean. Lifeboats are supposed to carry people when the ship sinks,

sealed with plates welded across openings.

and bring them in safety, and they can’t do that when they’re on

The first survivor Ismail Abdul Hassan, who was an ama-

the bottom.

teur long-distance swimmer who worked as an agricultural

At the back of the ship, I see on the bottom of the ocean, a tele-

engineer, stood on the ship’s deck as it went down. He fol-

vision, radio. People who dived the Salem Express before me, they

lowed the lights of the port and swam to shore, surviving

had to put it like this, because this is not a natural movement.

18 hours int the water. He attended to lead two other men

We go further to the front and see the big exhausts. on the side

to safety, who held onto his clothes, but died f exhaustion

you see the logo of Salem Express. The Exhaust are full of live. Lots

on the way.

of corral grows in the years the ship has sunk.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

wrecks

Further to the front you come to the captain’s deck. I penetrate it, and I come in the room of the captain, his bad. There is not lots of instruments anymore. I go up and I find my exit by a door on the side. I continue my way, via port side, and enter the cargo zone via an open hatch. I descend here and penetrate via this road into the corridors of the ship, here one can still find remnants of cars. It is still grim, knowing that many lives were lost in this tragic accident. On the way, I come across a few wheelbarrows with mattresses in them, suitcases. From afar I suddenly see the light penetrating back into the wreckage. After emerging from the wreckage, I now look for a way to the restaurant. I go through an opening in the restaurant. adopt a stable position, so that I can also take some photos here. The tables are still standing, but the upholstery has deteriorated bit by bit over the years. Now it's time to say goodbye to this beautiful wreck and do my decompression duties. These are not so big, this is because I did the dive on a rebreather, so the decompression obligations are drastically less compared to traditional diving Once back on the boat, everyone is quiet for a moment. They all think it is a beautiful wrack, but because of the history, the dead, it will always remain a cemetery and we must show the necessary respect.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

sponsored article

THE FOLLOWING ARE THE KEY CHARACTERISTICS OF THE UNDERSUIT 1. Fit and full movement range A tightly fitting undersuit restricts the diver’s freedom of movement, one that is too loose forces you to take additional weights. Tecline 3D Mobility is a well-considered combination of the two. Its design provides full freedom of movement and in order to avoid the use of extra fabric, an elastic fabric that maintains heat comfort was used over the armpits and in the connection between the upper and the lower part. 2. Buoyancy control In order to ensure free flow of gas through the undersuit and additionally facilitate its quick evacuation in emergencies, perforated inserts that instantly release gas from the undersuit were used over both shoulders. Tecline 3D Mobility design helps manage dynamic depth changes without the risk of uncontrolled ascent caused by the undersuit “holding the gas”. Undersuits are manufactured in two thickness versions, which allow for choosing the proper thermal comfort both in very cold water, under the thermocline (490 version of the undersuit) and in moderate temperature water (version 290) – the most commonly picked version for trimix dives in the Adriatic and waters with a similar temperature. The key factor is that the thicker the undersuit, the more important easy gas flow becomes. 3. Your position underwater and undersuit fit on the diver Suspenders – a key to safety. A dropping crotch on your undersuit significantly limits the movement range of both arms and legs of the diver. It makes it much harder to operate valves in an emergency, reduces swimming speed (for example while towing another diver) and gets in the way when getting out of the water (when you climb the ladder to the boat for example). One of the most important features of every diving undersuit are wide, stable and fully adjustable suspenders. All versions of Tecline 3D Mobility come fitted with such a solution. Additionally – the shape of the sleeves and legs allows for free and long-term maintenance of the proper position underwater. 4. Important accessories that increase comfort — elastic wrist cuffs lower the risk of rapid flooding of the undersuit, should there be a leak in your dry glove — wrist mesh to shorten the undersuit drying time — rubber bands at the wrists to make pulling a drysuit over the undersuit easier — elastic ankle cuffs and rubber bands to stabilize the legs of the undersuit, which allow the lower part of the drysuit to be put on easily without rolling the undersuit upwards — soft stand-up collar with a zipper protector, which doesn’t press against the diver’s neck — two-way zipper — two pockets with a soft finishing and a zipped one

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

sponsored article 5. P-valve and electric heating The undersuit comes with 2 two openings to stabilize the p-valve tube on the right or the left hand side, depending on the diver’s preference. An additional opening allows for easy introduction of the wire that powers your electric vest or gloves. The opening location does not interfere with the position of the drysuit’s inflation valve. 6. Materials used Pinnacle proposed material solutions that ensure high thermal comfort underwater, safety for the diver when preparing for diving under harsh conditions (rain, snow, strong wind) and maximum material durability, which lets you use Tecline 3D Mobility for many years. The liner (the layer closest to the diver’s body) – is Micropolar with a density of 200 g/m2, the internal layer is Fleece 250 g/m2, while the external layer is made of Pertex 40 g/m2. 7. Maintenance The design of the undersuit was closely connected with recognizing the divers’ needs – one was obvious: I’d really like to toss the undersuit into the washing machine and not worry that I’d ruin it. The Tecline 3D Mobility undersuit may be washed in an automatic washing machine or dry cleaned. This undersuit was designed by divers. It means that the solutions used in the design are there for a reason. Comfortable cave or wreck diving, as well as hours-long water sessions that diving instructors have are key elements that translated into the advanced and well-considered design of the undersuit. Technical analysis and thermovision testing We invite you to review comparative test of various undersuits that show how well they keep warmth at www.teclinediving.eu, you can find the “Download” section next to the description of each undersuit, which will include all the test results: https://katalog.tecline.com.pl/ocieplacz-tecline-290-g-m-3-l,3,3017,2964 Does it mean that Tecline 3D Mobility is the best undersuit for the discerning diver? We invite everyone to answer this question themselves, having tested the undersuit during their own dives! Tecline Team

LEARN HOW TO TEST ANY UNDERSUIT. A simple and effective test in just three steps.

STEP 1

you pulled the suspenders tight, the crotch is where it’s supposed

place where legs come together, called the “crotch”, as high as

to be and the undersuit resists around the buttock – try a bigger

possible). Pull these tight so that the undersuit’s crotch does not

one. If you feel tension around the knee – drop the rubber bands

come down (don’t put the upper part on – focus on the lower

that stretch the legs you wear around your heels.

part, as if you were trying on trousers). 2. Put a chair in front of you, hold on to something and with one

You can feel tension in the crotch, around buttocks or knees. If

1. The undersuit should come with suspenders (to support the

Did it help? Great, now put the upper part of the undersuit on and repeat the test – focus on eliminating anything that would

calm motion (not a rapid throw) put your whole foot on the

restrict your movement.

seat. Make sure that the undersuit’s crotch stays in place (it

What is this for?

shouldn’t hang). Now switch your legs. Your movement cannot

The higher you can raise your foot without any tension, the easier

be restricted in any way, so put your foot on a chair and try to

it will be to climb the ladder to the boat or to the jetty after you

feel if the undersuit makes it any harder.

are done diving. If you skip this part of the test or you just accept

sponsored article the lack of suspenders or even slight tension when lifting your leg

sure the thick socks keep the suit legs where it is the most com-

– you accept the risk of trouble while getting out of the water. This

fortable to you.

in turn lowers the safety of diving.

Put a pen on the floor. Put one foot on the floor next to it, kneel down on the other by moving the other foot back. Reach down for

STEP 2

the pen with both hands. Do everything slowly.

Do not put the leg stabilizing rubber bands on, check the position

Feel for tension and restrictions caused by the undersuit, fo-

of the crotch and adjust the suspenders if they’re too loose. Put on

cus on your back most this time. You should be able to reach the

and fasten the upper part of the undersuit.

pen and grab it with both hands simultaneously. If you have any

1. Sit down with your legs crossed – do it slowly, adjusting the un-

problems with your spine, move the leg you are kneeling on to the

dersuit as you go. If you feel tension around your knees, stand

back a little. Now stand up and repeat the test with the other foot

up and pull the suit legs up. It’s a good idea to put on thick, long

next to the pen.

socks over the undersuit’s legs. They will work as stabilizers.

What is this for?

2. With one steady movement, raise your right arm and try grab-

This movement range is necessary during rescue, when you’re pull-

bing your left ear. All movements should be calm. Focus on

ing the victim out of the water. Do not accept any movement re-

feeling any tension in the undersuit. Now switch the arm and

strictions the undersuit may cause in this case. By accepting them,

the ear ). If it helps, delicately pull the sleeve at the forearm.

you may significantly reduce your diving safety or... have trouble

What is this for?

picking the pen up.

This part of the test lets you see how much the undersuit restricts your arms movement range with full tension in its lower part. If you have no problem reaching your ears, you shouldn’t have any problem reaching the valves, reading the manometer or manipulating SM tanks. When you position yourself head up under water, the gas from the lower part of the suit moves up, towards your shoulders, while the undersuit around your legs and hips becomes immobile – in our test we simulated that by sitting cross-legged. As with the previous test – do not accept any movement restrictions the undersuit may cause. Restricted upward arm movement may make it impossible to perform many critical tasks under water – for example reading manometer or fixing a gas leak – do not accept restrictions. They make your diving less safe. STEP 3 While standing, check if the undersuit lies well. Check and adjust the suspenders tension. Delicately pull the sleeves up and make

SUMMARY, OR TO BE MORE SPECIFIC, THREE KEY TAKEAWAYS 1. Check the thermal comfort an undersuit provides on our own in the water (manufacturers’ descriptions should only be considered to get your bearings) 2. Performance characteristics of the undersuit are tested by spending as much time wearing it as possible, both underwater and on the surface, preparing your diving gear or... cleaning your apartment  Do you have any doubts? Test before you purchase – most reputable companies provide test gear in all models and sizes Never dive in a badly fitted drysuit, undersuit or underwear – it is very dangerous!

Visit the Tecline Academy and learn more about how to test an undersuit properly – it costs nothing and can significantly increase the safety and comfort of your dives. Use this opportunity to take two Tecline undersuits in two different thicknesses to the test.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

Photos in the article Mariusz Czajka

3. We ALWAYS choose the drysuit last – it must not restrict the undersuit’s characteristics we’ve learnt already

our conversation

Photo Will Appleyard

„MANTA” PROJECT Wojciech Zgoła: Why the manta rays? Oceanário: Oceanário de Lisboa encourages people to learn more about the ocean and finances various conservation projects around the world, including in the Azores, where it WOJCIECH ZGOŁA TALKS TO

helps to raise awareness to the natural capital found in the

ANA FILIPA SOBRAL (MANTA

archipelago. When Oceanário began to draw this dream of

CATALOG AZORES)

a programme for ecotourism, connecting divers to species conservation, and simultaneously ensuring financial sustainability for conservation projects, Manta Catalog Azores, a project that was already funded by Oceanário, naturally emerged as a key

our conversation

partner, as they study the aggregation of the devil ray around the Island of Santa Maria, striving to increase knowledge on the behaviour of this species and to identify necessary actions for its protection. WZ: Where did the idea for the expedition come from and is it a scientific expedition with the possibility of ordinary divers? O: Manta Conservation Experience was born from Oceanário de Lisboa's desire to, in one way, create something to connect the common diver with the conservation projects there are being done – namely Manta Catalog Azores – but also trying to create a way to expand the funding capacity for conservation projects. Combining these two premises aims to archive better results for the project and a sustainable activity for the future. Manta Conservation Experience also aims to set the ground Photo Ana Filipa Sobral

for more conscientious and sustainable dive practices and raise awareness on the importance of scientific data collection to drive change through better and more informed conser-

term projects. Mainly due to the nature of a technique like

vation and management measures. We want to connect the

photo-identification, which aims to study individuals and pop-

common diver with the conservation efforts and get them the

ulations through time. Once an individual has been IDed, every

opportunity to discover more about the species they dive with.

time they are photographed again, we will be able to learn more about it. So, the bigger the database the highest the

WZ: What specific species are you researching?

chance to have a re-sight and the more we will be able to learn

Ana Filipa Sobral/Manta Catalog Azores: Manta Catalog

about these animals and their populations through time.

Azores aims to further our knowledge on mantas and devil rays (Mobulids) found in the Azores and the Eastern Atlantic,

WZ: What have you achieved so far? What conclusions

a region where little data is available on these animals. Three

have been drawn?

species can be found here, between June and October each

AFS/MCA: So far there are almost 300 identified individuals

year: the Sicklefin Devil Ray (Mobula tarapacana), the Oceanic

on our database.

Manta Ray (Mobula birostris) and the Spinetail Devil Ray (Mobula

When the project started it was the first time this technique

mobular). The shallow seamounts around the Azores are some

was used to study the Sicklefin devil ray, so the main questions

of the few places on earth where Sicklefin devil rays gather in

behind it were: Can we use photo-ID to study the Sicklefin devil

large groups, and the presence of these predictable aggrega-

ray in the Azores? Do the same individuals return to the Azores

tions provides a unique opportunity to study them.

in different years? Today we can say that photo-ID is a viable tool to study these animals and we also know that individuals

WZ: What are some individuals marked with?

do return to the Azores in different years. Some of them return

AFS/MCA: Manta rays and the sicklefin devil ray have unique

several times and others have been photographed 9 years af-

natural markings on their bellies. These are unique to each

ter the first sighting.

animal, similarly to our fingerprints, which allows us to identify them using photographs, a method known as photo-ID. By

WZ: Where do you publish your research?

building a database with ID-photos of each animal, together

AFS/MCA: The research is published in peer-reviewed journals,

with information on when/where they were photographed, we

but we also make sure to disseminate and share it amongst

can track their movements as well as learn more about their

the general public, especially since the project relies on “Citizen

migration patterns, population size, reproduction, etc – crucial

Scientists” – divers and local dive operators that contribute

information to make informed management decisions for the

with data on their sightings of these animals, as well as with

conservation of these animals.

ID-photos.

WZ: How long does the research take?

WZ: Are manta rays dangerous to humans?

AFS/MCA: Projects like Manta Catalog Azores are usually long-

AFS/MCA: Manta and devil rays are completely harmless to hu-

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

our conversation

Photo Will Appleyard

mans, in fact they are known as gentle giants due to their im-

to follow any extra rules, laws and regulations that may be

pressive size and gentle nature.

specific to the site you're visiting.

WZ:Do they interact with people, what is it about?

WZ:Do they live in the same area? What distances do they

AFS/MCA: Manta rays have the largest brain of all fish, and

travel daily, monthly, annually?

their curiosity and apparent intelligence make encountering

AFS/MCA: Mantas and devil rays often undertake seasonal

them an unforgettable experience. Their interaction with div-

migrations, and their movements are driven by ocean currents

ers has granted them a charismatic status amongst the diving

and food (plankton) availability. These family has very diverse

community. Devil rays are known to be more elusive and gen-

and complex behaviours. Depending on the species, they can

erally very shy towards divers. However, that is not the case

be more resident or highly migratory, being able to travel doz-

with the Sicklefin devil ray which just like mantas will swim

ens, hundreds or even thousands of kilometres. They are also

up to divers with obvious curiosity, making for an incredible

known to dive quite deep, the Sicklefin devil ray, for example,

encounter. When one of these animals looks directly into your

can dive up to 2 kilometres deep.

eyes it is a moment hard to forget. WZ: Is it true that manta rays can fly in the air? When is WZ: How to behave in the presence of these majestic crea-

this happening and why? Do mantas communicate with

tures?

each other?

AFS/MCA: Having the chance to encounter these animals un-

AFS/MCA: Manta rays can jump out of the water, but devil rays

derwater is an incredible experience, however it is important

are known to be the true acrobats. Specially the Munk’s Devil

we behave in a way that does not disturb them. The first im-

Ray (Mobula munkiana), known to aggregate in vast schools of

portant step is to choose a responsible tour operator, which

thousands of rays – jumping up to 3 meters above the water

respects the animals and any existing laws and guidelines or

while performing flips and somersaults and then going back

codes of conduct in place in the area you will be snorkelling

into the ocean with a loud “splash”. The exact reason for this

or diving. The Manta Trust team has created a Best Practice

behaviour is unknown, but it has been discussed its purpose

Code of Conduct for Manta Ray Tourism, a set of guidelines

could be communication.

and information for both tourists and operators which you can

find at https://swimwithmantas.org. By following these guide-

WZ: How many manta rays are killed in a year?

lines, you are both enhancing your experience and ensuring

AFS/MCA: In the last decades a new market arose for the gill

your presence does not disturb the animals. Some of the things

plates of Mobulids, to be used in use in Asian Medicine. This

to keep in mind are:

led to Mobulids now being heavily sought after and to the rise

1. Keep your distance; 2. remain still and let the manta come

of targeted fisheries. In addition, they are increasingly being

to you, do not chase after them; 3. do not block their path;

caught in fisheries directed to other species, in what is called

4. do not touch them, you will ruin the encounter for everyone

by-catch. Despite many conservation achievements, and en-

and may receive a fine depending on local laws; 5. Make sure

hanced protection against the gill plate trade in the last few

our conversation

years, fisheries, both targeting them for their gill plates and catching them as bycatch, are still their biggest threats, and have devastated populations worldwide, with mantas still being killed in their thousands and devil rays in their tens of thousands, as bycatch in high seas fisheries. WZ: What are you counting on in 2022 after 2 years of pandemic? Has their population increased during this time? AFS/MCA: 2022 will hopefully allow us to fully be back in the water collecting as much data as possible. The pandemic inevitably affected our ability to be out in the field but also the amount of data collected from divers and operators, since there were less people travelling. Unfortunately, one of the reasons why Mobulids are threatened is their inability to rapidly recover from decreases in their populations. These animals Photo Ana Filipa Sobral

live long, take a long time to be able to reproduce and don’t reproduce often, having a pup every 3–5 years. This makes it impossible for them to recover their populations in such

variety of underwater geological formations and an extremely

a short time, even if all the threats they face would have ceased

diverse and rich marine life – not only devil rays but, poten-

completely during the pandemic. Of the nine recognized spe-

tially, divers may also meet with sharks, whales and dolphins.

cies by the IUCN's Red List of Threatened Species two are listed

Diving in Santa Maria is a very exclusive experience – there will

as “Vulnerable” and seven as “Endangered”, all with declining

only be a very limited number of divers per time slot in each

populations. Now more than ever it is important to continue

place, to preserve and respect protected areas. Participants

to study these amazing fish and to work for their conservation.

will also discover more about the devil rays and will learn about techniques of photo-identification.

WZ: What will the participant of such an expedition ex-

They will also conclude the experience with personal fulfil-

perience?

ment from the certainty that they have given a direct contrib-

Oceanário: Participants will have a unique, immersive expe-

ute to the protection of these threatened species and ocean

rience and a deep connection with the ocean. For one week,

conservation, not only by financially supporting the project,

they will be able to dive twice a day in a variety of spots in Nat-

but also by helping collect valuable data and photos for sci-

ural Reserves and Marine Protected Areas which have a huge

entific research.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

planet earth

ICE CREAM, FREE DRINKS AND... WHALES

how to choose a whale watching cruise operator?

Text Jakub Banasiak Photos Sergio David Hernandez Herrera, Jakub Banasiak

In many diving destinations we can meet various species of dolphins and whales. However, the laws of various countries prohibit swimming with wild marine mammals. In order to observe them and meet them face to face, it is worth choosing whale watching cruises in such places.

our operators whale watching

sweets rubbish that the wind blows into

offer is usually extensive and

the sea and no communication with the

we have a choice of boats and

ocean.

ships of different sizes, as well as many

Such ships simply offer a sea ex-

additional attractions and pleasures,

cursion that is dedicated to dolphin or

ranging from snacks, welcome drinks,

whale watching, but on board it is of-

and a bar on board, to the possibility

ten more important to sell ice creams,

of snorkelling in safe coves or even fan-

sunbathe or have a happy hour than to

cy, funny entertainments for tourists.

learn about the behaviour or conser-

Of course, on a holiday or especially

vation issues of marine mammals. Of

a family trip, all this is important, but

course, there are also advantages – for

the truth is that the more ice cream,

example, larger vessels can go out to

snacks and drinks, the less focus on

sea even when the weather is less fa-

professional animal observation and –

vourable, and the waves are bigger –

unfortunately – often less concern for

but then the observation of cetaceans

their welfare and the protection of the

is simply difficult.

marine ecosystem.

So, it is better to look for small boats

Big boats and catamarans mean

offering eco-cruises. "Eco-cruise" is not

a huge crowd of tourists, noise, music,

a new buzzword, but a specific way

accumulation of disposable (sometimes

and standard of operation. Such small

still plastic) lunch wrappers and drinks,

boats, mainly zodiacs, can offer more to

planet earth

both tourists and ocean life. What gives us the right to use the term "eco"?

Of course, some large units operate this way as well. But small zodiacs can

The most important thing is to fol-

do even more. They fish plastic trash

low the guidelines on how to approach

out of the water, help to free sea tur-

the animals by boat, the number of

tles entangled in leftover nets, rescue

boats in a given area, how long to stay

sea birds.

near the observed pod, etc. All this has

Many of the small boats also have

a huge impact on the welfare of the

hydrophones, allowing tourists to listen

cetaceans. Additionally, responsible

to the sounds made by the dolphins

whale watching operators go to great

and whales they encounter. The crews

lengths to ensure that best practice is

also carry out photo identification of

followed. When a captain witnesses bad

the individuals they meet. These photos

practices at sea by other operators, he addresses them directly on the radio to inform them of the regulations and try to educate them to change their behaviour. Responsible whale watching operators also implement rules such as: eliminating single-use plastics, having trained staff on board, including a certified guide (often a marine biologist who actually educates tourists not only about the behaviour of individual species, but also about environmental risks and the importance of sustainable tourism), and working closely with wildlife rescue organisations.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

planet earth

are a serious contribution to the study

ic Reports on the effects of whale watch-

to those pairs that were not approached

of local cetacean populations

ing boat engine noise on the behaviour

by any boat, mothers approached by

of cetaceans off the coast of Tenerife.

a boat with a noisy combustion engine

The smaller the boat, the closer to the water surface we are. The closer to

The research team used drones to

spent on average 29% less time resting

the water surface, the more good can

observe the behaviour of mother-calf

and 81% less time feeding their young.

be done and the closer we get to the

pairs of pilot whales. 13 pairs were

No significant reductions in resting or

cetaceans that swim up to the zodiac

observed without the presence of

feeding were observed in pilot whales

themselves. Usually, such boats also

any boat, and another 23 pairs when

that were approached with a quieter

have quieter new-generation engines,

a whale watching boat with a louder

electric motor. From other studies we

which is extremely important from an

combustion engine or quieter electric

know that reduced resting and feeding

animal welfare point of view.

motor slowly approached at a distance

can have a significant negative impact

Patricia Arranz, a biologist at the Uni-

of 60 metres, according to the Canary

on calf survival.

versity of La Laguna in Tenerife, recently

Islands' cetacean watching guidelines.

Sometimes, when we, as tourists, are

published a study in the journal Scientif-

The researchers found that compared

guided mainly by the price of tickets or succumb to clever marketing, we allow ourselves to be tempted by operators who are focused mainly on profit and do not care about animal welfare. Some operate illegally, without the required permits, others break key rules, just to satisfy their demanding customers. It might seem that this type of situation occurs only in developing countries, where there are no legal regulations, and for boat owners every trip is a financial 'to be or not to be' for the family. Such practices would probably not be so surprising in Cambodia, Laos, Nicaragua or even Panama. Unfortunately, the whale watching business, in some of its forms, is becoming problematic also in highly developed European countries, such as the already mentioned Spanish Tenerife.

planet earth

The whale and dolphin watching industry in Tenerife is already one of the largest and best known in the world. It is estimated to generate 42 million euros a year from 1.4 million tourists. The marine area between Tenerife and La Gomera became a certified whale heritage site in January 2021. Cetacean watching brings more than 700,000 tourists to Tenerife every year, making it the second most popular activity for visitors, with a huge economic impact. The challenge, however, is that illegally operating boats with no concern for animal welfare outnumber those with the necessary certifications, operating to the required standards. The whale watching companies that make up the Whale Watching Association of South Tenerife (Asociación de

Fines for illegal whale watching activ-

Guardia Civil tries to do something – car-

Cetáceos Sur de Tenerife) are demanding

ities in the region range from €6,000 to

ries out checks and draws up protocols,

that the Spanish central government

€60,000. However, as the association's

these unfortunately do not result in any

and the Canary administration increase

president, Higinio Guerra, has point-

sanctions and the reports are mysteri-

controls on this activity.

ed out in previous years, although the

ously "lost" during the proceedings.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

planet earth

violations of cetacean welfare. Sometimes these efforts have a satisfactory outcome. Officers from the Unidad de Seguridad Interior and Policía Administrativa del Cuerpo General de la Policía Canaria (CGPC), based in Tenerife, launched several investigations at the end of last year during an operation carried out between 6 and 8 December. Their aim was to monitor compliance with specific regulations on cetacean sightings by vessels operating from a port in the south of Tenerife, as well as to promote good practice in accordance with the law in force. Surveillance was carried out both on land and from the sea, aboard a special The

association,

together

with

Tenerife councillors committed to cetacean

conservation,

sess their quality and adherence to the

vessel. Eighteen boats were inspected,

code of conduct.

and seven administrative proceedings

promoting

Whale watching boat traffic is also

were initiated. Four of these showed

a whale-watching quality charter based

being monitored by organisations ac-

a lack of administrative authorisation

on the voluntary commitment of compa-

tively involved in the protection of dol-

to allow recreational cetacean-watching

nies and containing fifteen points which

phins and whales off the coast of Tener-

activities. Another indicated a violation

are assessed annually during 'mystery

ife. They carry out observations both

of the regulations regarding access to

shopper' visits. Specially trained people

from the sea and from land, informing

the exclusion zone, where only two

anonymously take part in the trips to as-

the relevant authorities of any observed

whale watching vessels can remain at

planet earth

(...) the most important thing is to make the right, informed choices by us – customers and tourists. Small zodiacs run by people with a real commitment to the environment, marked – as in the case of Tenerife – with the characteristic blue flag – Barco Azul will be the best choice here. a time, and the rest concerned deficien-

degrade the natural environment and

harbour (it cannot sail without the

cies in marine documentation.

have a negative impact on the species

captain, who has a surprisingly long

that inhabit the area.

leave). And when it is moored at the

The Cuerpo General de la Policía Canaria (General Police Corps of the Ca-

All this, however, is absolutely inad-

quay (with the curtains drawn at the

nary Islands) intends to exercise greater

equate. The distinctive red vessel mon-

windows), it is a kind of signal to ille-

control over whale watching activities,

itoring the activities of whale watch-

gal boats that they can go to sea with

preventing inappropriate practices that

ing boats too often stands idle in the

impunity. Therefore, the most important thing is to make the right, informed choices by us – customers and tourists. Small zodiacs run by people with a real commitment to the environment, marked – as in the case of Tenerife – with the characteristic blue flag – Barco Azul will be the best choice here.

Special thanks to Sergio Hernandez Herrera, skipper of the boat DIOMEDEA (BONADEA II) from Puerto Colon in Costa Adeje for providing photos of his cruises.

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

our conversation

Driven by passion Karolina Sztaba, better known as KAROLA TAKES PHOTOS underwater photographer, designer, and artist. Always positive, she says that her head is full of creative ideas that often take her to unusual places. In this issue Karola takes us on a journey to exotic underwater places, tells us what inspires her, and talks about her eco-projects she likes to get involved in. IN CONVERSATION WITH LAURA KAZIMIERSKA

You spent the last 5 years in Indonesia documenting the

I went underwater for the first time with the encouragement

underwater world of tropical coral reefs, professional div-

of my cousin Patcy, who worked as a divemaster. In no time,

ers, and participating in many environmental campaigns.

I fell in love with the light underwater! I was inspired by this

Did you plan to take up underwater photography profes-

whole new world where light provides new opportunities

sionally when you went on this trip?

for photography. During that very first dive I decided that

Photography has always been my passion, but also my live-

this is the place and landscape that I want to capture in my

lihood. I graduated from the photography faculty and since

photos... I wasn't thinking about a career as a professional

then I have been involved in various fields of photography,

underwater photographer yet, but I knew that it wouldn't stop

from product photography, through wedding photography,

with one dive and that one day I would take my camera with

to fashion and reportage photography.

me – something was born in me then – the desire to capture

When I went to Indonesia, I did not plan to stay there for

a moment in this amazing world where light is simply addic-

more than a few weeks. Everything changed the moment

tive and indescribable!

our conversation

Having already had a lot of experience in photography, what was your biggest challenge in underwater photography? Buoyancy (laughs). As a newcomer to the world of scuba diving, my main focus for a few months was on perfecting my neutral buoyancy techniques and Was that the moment when you decided that you would stay in In-

moving underwater. Once I mastered the basics to

donesia for a long time?

perfection, it was only then that I took my camera

At that time, I was still rather unsure about it. When I saw the first under-

with me.

water pictures taken by Pepe Arcos, one of the freedivers and photogra-

As for taking the pictures themselves, it's still play-

phers on Gili Trawangan, I thought "woow! This is something that I will

ing with light, except under different circumstances.

also do one day". From that moment I started to seriously consider this

Because of the loss of colour under water, the pro-

unconventional career path. Of course, I had a lot to learn and figure out

cessing of the photos is also different, and there-

what I needed to pay attention to, what to avoid and how to work with

fore you have to approach the subject in the right

the changing environmental factors when shooting underwater. I learned

way. But it is still a play with light.

from my own mistakes: hundreds of hours spent underwater and processing photos. At some point I just got what it was all about (laughs),

Do you think you're still growing as a photog-

I just felt it and that was it. From the very beginning I knew what I was

rapher?

aiming at and what I wanted to achieve, and when after some time the

Definitely! I'm still constantly honing my photo pro-

shots that I planned and the way of editing started to resemble the images

cessing, taking online courses, and improving my

from my imagination, I knew that Karola Takes Photos underwater was

photo editing skills, not just the underwater ones.

born. (laughs)

Talking to fellow professionals also helps. Exchange

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

our conversation

of ideas, tips on settings, working with light – it all makes me

paintings from the Romantic era. Through their landscapes,

grow as a photographer.

the artists were able to release emotions of a sense of spiritual

I continue to experiment with colours and evolve. I am not

connection with nature, of humility towards everything that

afraid of changes. I like to challenge myself, that's why photog-

surrounds us. My favourite painter is Caspar David Friedrich,

raphy never bores me. I can always find something new in it.

and it is this mystery in his paintings that totally draws me in.

I usually edit photos just by feel. I don't have a specific tem-

I like understatements (but only in art! <smile>). Underwater

plate, filters or settings as each image is different, but I have

world gives many more possibilities to create compositions

found my style. There is often a rather dark, mysterious, even

a little bit out of this world, understated, mystical. After all,

mystical atmosphere in my photos. I play with natural light,

what's under the surface is incomparable to what surrounds

and this imposes an additional challenge but also gives more

us every day.

possibilities.

It's a little different underwater. I create my compositions using natural light. I like to create an atmosphere. I like simplic-

Looking at your photographs there are both otherworldly

ity, because as you know "less is more". I don't like portraits

landscapes, portraits, eco-manifestos, and technical div-

flattened with flash, taken in exaggerated light. I try to make

ers. Which subject matter are you the most passionate

the person I am photographing a part of the whole picture,

about?

but also to co-exist with the surrounding environment, be it

In photography I am interested in people and the story behind

a coral reef or underwater creatures that inhabit it – because

one shot or a series of images that tell a story. One of my favou-

I want everything in the picture to have its place and to be

rite photographers is Diane Arbus because of the fact that her

a part of the story that I put together at the moment of taking

pictures speak, they carry the truth about the person photo-

the photograph.

graphed. For this reason, I also like Cartier-Bresson. I love truth

I also love black and white photos, because by "taking away

in photography, art in general. They and many other outstand-

the colours", the photo takes on a different value, carries more

ing photographers inspire me incredibly. I am also in love with

emotions, conveys feelings, and gives food for thought. That is

our conversation

ed with a stopover in China, where I saw one big garbage dump. I was shocked! Then I landed in Bali and was totally taken aback by the sheer volume of rubbish that was widely accepted. I didn't expect that such beautiful places could be drowning in rubbish. I have travelled a lot, but I have never seen such a waste problem. During my first sunset on an Indonesian beach, I couldn't focus on anything else but picking up trash. It hit me terribly. From that moment on I wanted to communicate this in some way. This is a very common problem in Asia. So, I thought: if I didn't have the faintest idea how my everyday little decisions can affect the environment (from food choices to cosmetics), then surely many people don't realise it either. So, I decided to raise awareness and I'm doing it my way – by photographing. For several years now, I have been working with different organisations that are concerned with the environment or brands looking for alternative and ecological solutions. My two independent projects are "TRASHION", a photo shoot similar to fashion magazine collections. Here, however, the creations were made of rubbish caught during diving and beach cleaning on Gili Trawangan. The second project, much more shocking, is entitled "TRAPPED". It is a series of photographs of women – the personification of nature – who struggle, are trapped, suffocated, chained by rubbish (most often drifting in the sea or lying on the beaches) or sometimes unaware of the danger they are in. Nature has no voice and, although hurt, damaged, and suffocated by the plastic why 2 years ago I created a black and white underwater project

created by human hands, it allows us to admire its beauty

called "Manifesto".

every day. We live in a world of images, so with images it is good to speak if you have the opportunity. Through this and

Do you have a so-called dream shot in your head? A picture

my other projects, I want to make people think about this

that you would like to take?

problem, and environmental projects should shock a little

Whales! I look forward to the moment of capturing these de-

to be remembered. After all, what we do always comes back

fenceless giants. In that moment, a person can really feel awe

to us, and by harming the environment we harm ourselves

of nature and realise how tiny they are. Of course, my love is

first and foremost.

the manta rays – the way they move in the water, the different characters they have, the way they can catch contact (not just eye contact) or play with air bubbles. I always imagine them dancing around us divers. But these are not the only "dream shots". I have a lot of ideas, and the underwater conditions in Indonesia are definitely conducive to realizing them. In recent years you have been involved in a number of eco-projects to raise public awareness of the problems the underwater environment is facing today. What inspired you to address this topic in photography? As a photographer and diver, I have a deep sense of mission to document the surrounding reality. Often the ugly reality. To be honest, the first time I became aware of the problem of plastic pollution was when I arrived in Indonesia. It start-

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

our conversation

What is Karola Takes Photos inspired by? I am often inspired by the images I create in my head when reading fantasy books (my favourite author is Neil Gaiman, but I also like Lukyanenko, Sapkowski, Bulgakov and Orwell) – when the words invite you to other dimensions and worlds or are dangerously real. The underwater world is just such a parallel reality for me. Mysterious, different each time, surprising. Sometimes I can also be inspired by a painting (as I said – Caspar David Friedrich, but also Wyspianski and the amazing Witkacy, whom I admire not only as a painter), a song, a texture, a building (Antoni Gaudi), a person, a situation, simply life. While on Gili Trawangan, I started a project of a series of photographs from my dreams. Here I try to combine my underwater photography with unreal reality. I often draw sketches when I think of something. Then it's easier for me to get into the details of how the picture should look. Some ideas turn out to be successful, others not, because in the real world they are completely different from what I had in my head, or they simply can't be realised at the moment. In private, do you leave your camera to finally find yourself on the other side? Haha (laughs) I usually have my camera with me. At any family or social gatherings, it's hard to step out of the photographer's

role ha ha! Because of this, my family and friends have a lot of photos from meetings where I seem not to be present (laughs). I don't have too many underwater photos where you can see me, but I'm very happy with each one. To be honest, I don't really feel confident in front of the camera. I've slowly started to get used to being on this other side for me, while shooting a Vlog or creating content on Instagram, but I still feel that my place is definitely behind the camera. What would be your advice to budding underwater photographers? First of all, to learn buoyancy. Not to damage the environment that surrounds them, but also to have control over their own body for safety. You don't have to start with extremely expensive equipment or the best camera on the market. I recommend patience, perseverance (laughs) and finding your own style rather than flat copying. And of course, practice, practice, and practice. Improve shots, compositions, and processing, and absorb knowledge from more experienced photographers. It may sound trivial but spend a lot of time underwater and learn from your mistakes. A good trait for any photographer is to be hardworking, but

also confident. It's worth showing your photos even if they don't seem quite perfect. Experiment. Don't be afraid of criticism! (laughs) Has social media like Instagram, where anyone can upload their own or re-post others' photos, changed the face of professional photography? It certainly has, but it has also provided a huge opportunity for self-promotion, to expose your own projects and to draw attention to yourself. On the other hand, many people don't realise the amount of work and experience behind every photo taken by a professional photographer. That's why it annoys me when I find my photos used by random profiles, organisations, companies, or apps where I wasn't tagged, or the was photo used without my knowledge or authorisation. Removing watermarks, cropping, or applying filters to photos by other people also frustrates me a lot, because there is often a long way of a photographer and a lot of work behind the colour of photos or the way they are edited. However, it's hard to protect yourself from this in the age of social media. Future projects? Oh my, I have lots of ideas constantly coming to my mind (laughs), but I am also definitely open to suggestions of collaboration with other photographers, because such collaborations are always an interesting experience. I will definitely be returning to the topic of photography workshops and exhibitions, which were in the plans before the pandemic. We are also preparing a joint project (with Laura Kazimierska – the interviewer), which will be quite loud, but for now I do not want to reveal anything.

Want to learn more and get to know Karola and her photography? You can find her projects on her YouTube under Karola Takes Photos or on her website: www.karolatakesphotos.com Also follow her on Instagram @Karolatakesphotos

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

archaeology

WORLD'S

LARGEST

UNDERWATER TREASURE Mother of all treasures. Treasure of all treasures. Text Mateusz Popek, Szymon Mosakowski Photos Wikimedia Commons

endary Atocha. By this time they had

However, let us go back more than

already done hundreds of dives with

350 years to 1618, when in a shipyard in

no results. This made every day of ex-

sunny Cuba the vessel Nuestra Señora

ploration a routine, and the shapes of

de Atocha is created. The ship was built

underwater objects ceased to stimulate

in Havana upon the order of the New

their imagination. It was not the case

Spain fleet. For the construction of the

this time. When the metal detector

galleon, the boatmen used the highest

buzzed, they rolled a heavy bar. After

quality mahogany, which was supplied

a closer examination, they came to the

to them from the neighbouring islands.

conclusion that it was not an ordinary

This material was to be extremely dura-

scrap metal they used to find every

ble, similar to oak wood, which was the

day. It must have been a while before

main building material of European ships

they realised this. In front of them they

built at that time. At the time when the

hey had been in Mel Fisher's

had a bar of silver. When they looked

Atocha was created, the boatbuilding

team for several years, search-

around, they saw that they were stand-

was based on the established principles,

ing for the treasure of the leg-

ing on a mountain of silver.

including the selection of materials used,

When on Saturday morning, July 20, 1985, the divers Andy Matroci and Greg Wareham entered the water to check the stone reef, they did not expect what they would find.

T 64

archaeology

80 soldiers on board the Atocha and numerous nobles with their families, a total of about 265 people. According to the exact records, there were 901 silver barrels, 161 gold barrels and about a million silver coins and many other valuables in the cargo area, in addition to which the ship was heavily armed. The Atocha was situated behind the fleet. Two days after setting sail, the ships were already at the height of the Florida Strait, which was extremely dangerous in bad weather. On the same day in the evening, a mighty wind started, and it grew stronger as the night passed. It was during this storm that Nuestra Señora de Atocha and eight other ships sank. They all crashed and sank on reefs near the Florida Keys. Only five people survived the galleon crash, including the ship's captain. For the next few years after the sinking, Spanish sailors tried to locate and recover the valuable sunken cargo. Only a few hundred bars of silver, a few cannons and about 65 thousand silver coins were recovered, which is a small amount compared to the entire load. After numerous failures, the rescue attempts of the treasure from this ship were stopped and it became a part of before that time the construction of all

bination gave the wood flexibility and ri-

the ocean floor for another 350 years,

kinds of ships was a matter of a good eye

gidity. In the ship built in Havana, only

until the expedition undertaken by one

of a builder. Nuestra Señora de Atocha

iron spikes were used, which significantly

of the most famous treasure hunters.

was a powerful and admirable ship with

contributed to the weakening of the hull,

It's not entirely clear why Mel Fish-

a length of almost 32 m, a width of 9.5 m

it became dangerously rigid. On the day

er decided to go after the Atocha. It is

and a draught of about 4.5 m and a total

of the launch, the Atocha had numerous

also not entirely clear how he got the

weight of about 550 tons. The ship had

traces of leaks, but repairing them would

information from the archives, which

a 3-mast propulsion system, which was

have significantly delayed her departure

contained the approximate place of

very powerful; however, this ship did not

to open waters. Despite so many struc-

sinking of the ship. It is known, howev-

stand out from other galleons at the time.

tural deficiencies, it was incorporated

er, that this former chicken farmer in

Despite the rank of that ship and its pur-

into the fleet.

1969 moved to the vicinity of Key West

pose, the contractors made many chang-

Nuestra Señora de Atocha sailed

in Florida with a strong determination

es during construction to save as much

from the port of Havana on 4 September

to find the wreck, which he believed hid

money as possible and at the same time

1622 with the entire so-called Silver Fleet

a giant treasure.

gain time. Among other things, not many

of 28 ships on a return trip to Spain. The

To do this, he invested all his wealth

recommended materials were used in

fleet set a course northbound on the

and persuaded his family and some

the construction. Wooden training devic-

Florida Keys, heading through the Flori-

of his friends to do so. They founded

es and iron spikes should be used during

da Strait. The ship was loaded with a very

a company that was aimed at finding

the formwork of the decks and the outer

valuable but heavy cargo, which exceed-

and extracting the treasure. It involved

shells of the hulls. The use of such a com-

ed its capabilities. There were more than

the employment of divers and the pur-

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

archaeology

chase of boats. Fortunately, the atmosphere of the search meant that many young people wanted to participate in the expedition even for a very modest remuneration. After more than a year of searching, the team came across the first silver bars. Unfortunately, the seekers have come to the conclusion that it cannot be the Atocha because their number was too small. They quickly concluded that it was the Santa Margarita unit, from the same fleet that sank with the Atocha. However, the excavated ore allowed for further financing of the exploration, and the first glow of valuables attracted new divers. Another success came five years lat-

heightened by legal issues. The state of

water. This accelerated the work, but the

er when Fisher's team found silver bars

Florida claimed ownership of the trea-

wreck made it wait a little longer.

again, but also gold valuables. This time

sure as lying in its territorial waters. The

On July 20, when Andy and Greg

they came to the conclusion that they

legal battle was to last for years. How-

jumped out of the water announcing

had found the Atocha's treasure. How-

ever, in 1975, a greater tragedy than

success, no one knew where Mel was. He

ever, again, in Mel's opinion, this was

the loss of mined valuables befell Mel

wasn't in the office, he wasn't at home,

definitely not enough. But the whole

Fisher. While working at sea, one of the

he couldn't be told about success. His

team was convinced that they were just

searchers' boats sinks, taking with it the

wife came up with the idea to call the ra-

a step away from success. The company

son of the seeker Dirks and his wife An-

dio and tell Fisher wherever he was that

bought new boats, magnetometer and

gel, and the diver Rick Gage. This terrible

the wreckage had been found. When the

sonar, and there were also other inves-

tragedy, however, did not stop the work

news sounded from the speakers, Mel

tors. When they mined valuables, they

of finding the Atocha's treasure.

was shopping in the store.

did not yet know how wrong they were.

Years passed, and the main wreck-

A multi-week operation to extract

The search lasted days, then weeks,

age was still missing. The searchers

the treasure began. More than 40 tons

and finally months. All the seekers al-

wandered and guessed randomly, se-

of silver and gold were mined (includ-

ready felt that they were very close,

lecting more places to check. The situ-

ing 115,000 coins and 1,000 silver bars),

but the treasure was still slipping out of

ation began to change when Mel hired

and 32 kilograms of emeralds. Legal

their hands. Thousands of hours spent

a marine archaeologist to join the team.

problems have also ended. The settle-

underwater, hectares of searched land

Duncan Mathewson showed the team

ment ordered Fisher to give up 25% of

and nothing. Fisher's frustration was

how to read the traces they find under-

the treasure to the state of Florida. All investors were repaid and each of them earned a considerable amount. Mel Fisher, who is unquestionably considered the greatest treasure hunter, died in 1998. His discovery was entered in 2014 in the Guinness Book of Records as the richest wreck ever found. However, this is not the end of the story. According to Fisher, the entire wreckage has still not been found, and the search continues. For years, every year the search has been ongoing, and volunteers from all over the world can join the team.

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planet earth

Common dolphins

UNUSUAL GUESTS Text Agata Turowicz-Cybula

DUE TO ITS LOCATION, HISTORY AND RELATIVELY YOUNG AGE, THE BALTIC SEA DOES NOT HAVE A VERY DIVERSE FLORA AND FAUNA.

O 68

Photos Jakub Banasiak

Most often, unusual representatives

not only in the northern part of the Bal-

of the marine animal world appear in

tic Sea, but also off the Polish coast. To

the Baltic Sea... by accident. Leaving

the dolphin's guest list, we can count

to the Danish Straits, for some reason

the common dolphin, the white-beaked

they lose their way back and instead of

dolphin, and also the divers' favourite –

returning to the North Sea they swim

the bottlenose dolphin. Of course, you

straight into the Baltic. Unfortunately,

have to be very lucky to spot this mam-

f course, you will find represen-

the vast majority of them never return

mal jumping out of the waves, but it is

tatives of many groups of plants

to their natural environment.

worth staring closely at the surface of the water, because maybe you will be

and animals, but they are usually

Particularly interesting to everyone

small and often hard to see among the

are visits by large animals such as dol-

Baltic sand or stones. Therefore, a very

phins and whales. In recent years, it has

Meeting a whale in Poland may not

big event is, when our sea is visited by

become increasingly common to see

be so pleasant, but it is nonetheless

guests from other basins.

representatives of both these groups

exciting. Unfortunately, these animals

among the lucky ones.

planet earth White-beaked dolphin

the beach in Stegna. As in the case of whales, the Baltic Sea does not have an appropriate food base, which would allow them to successfully stay with us longer. The appearance of an exotic fish in the Baltic Sea was quite a surprise, namely the ocean sunfish, known to divers from the Red Sea as the Mola mola. Found in fishing nets, it was released into the wild, but shortly after it was found dead again. Like other such cases, it ended up in the hands of scientists, who were able to investigate the causes of its death and gain a better understanding of its physiology. Apart from large individuals, there are also much smaller guests in the Baltic Sea. Together with cold, well-oxygenated water from the North Sea, characteristic plankton organisms enter the Baltic Sea. It is thanks to them that scientists can learn about the appearance of the so-called inflow into the Baltic Sea and can assess how far it has reached. Sometimes, however, some guests Fin whale

stay longer with us. A great example is the fish called round goby, which came

are usually found dead by the shore or

pulled out of their nets a swordfish

to us with the ballast water of ships, and

on the beach. This is mostly because

measuring almost 2.5 metres. A few

since the 1990s has been doing very well

they do not have an adequate food

years later, another representative of

in the Baltic Sea, successfully inhabiting

base in the Baltic Sea and they simply

this species was found by tourists on

the entire Polish coastline.

starve to death, while the sea waves throw them ashore. So far, northern bottlenose whale and fin whale have been found on Polish beaches, which, by the way, is the second largest animal living on Earth after the blue whale. Of course, there are also sightings of live cetaceans in our sea. However, the chance of such encounter is smaller than in the case of dolphins. Due to the size and lifestyle of these animals, they are usually seen by fishermen, in deep waters far from the shore. Not only mammals come to visit the Baltic Sea. It also happens that large fish appear in our sea. Not so long ago, fishermen off the coast of Świnoujście, in the course of pikeperch fishing, Common dolphins

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

planet earth

Screechy REED SINGERS Text and photos Wojciech Jarosz

sentative of the reed birds: the great reed warbler (this is the

The song of great weed warblers seems beautiful to one, while for others it is a tiring streak of grinds, crunches and crackles. It is impossible not to hear it and ignore it, because it is loud and dominates over the voices of other residents of the rushes.

same family to which the sedge warbler described in the issue 19 belongs). It is also called "drozdówka" (similar to the thrush bird), because it is the largest of the reed birds and it is similar in size to small thrushes. The text begins with a mention of the singing of the great reed warbler – I will now develop this topic a bit. They sing, of course, the males do it. Their songs, which in spring and summer are the most characteristic acoustic decoration of coastal reed beds, are directed to females to interest them in themselves for matrimonial and procreative purposes. Life is easier for males who sing the most beautifully (the most beautifully in the opinion of the female part of the

population), although it would probably be more appropriate

e can hear great reed warblers very often over the

to say that they sing in the most attractive or sensual way.

water, but we can see them more seldom. So I will

Strong and alluring singing comes from the throats of strong

try to interest you, Dear Reader, in this species, so

males, which, being in excellent shape, encourage ladies to

that you have a reason to look for great reed warblers during

breed together. Studies show that males prepare for these

your next stay at a lake or pond, where you can find them in

vocal performances from the cradle, that is, “from the nest”,

the reeds.

well... from the nestling times. Researchers have found that the

Thus, we perform another “dive into the reeds” on the pag-

young which are better fed become better singers in the future

es of Perfect Diver. The time has come for the largest repre-

by learning the trade from their fathers in their youth, getting

planet earth

acquainted with the phrase and melody characteristic of the

and short. The long song is used by bachelors to shine in front

genre. One of the classics of the Polish ornithology, professor

of maidens. So it is used by unpaired males, mainly at the time

Jak Sokołowski in "Birds of the Polish Lands" wrote the syllables

of arrival of females. The shorter version, on the other hand, is

of the specific reed song in this way: "ryba ryba ryba, rak rak rak,

a signal to the surrounding males (the rivals) communicating

świerzbi świerzbi świerzbi, drap drap drap, stary stary stary, kit kit

that the territory from which it comes is occupied.

kit" (it means: "fish fish fish, crayfish crayfish crayfish, itches,

Interestingly, the quality of the song correlates with the

itches, itches, scratch, scratch, scratch, old old old, putty, putty,

quality of the occupied territory – another reason why females

putty") – in my opinion, this transcription reflects the great weed warblers’ song quite well. Why should better fed young sing better? Because mastering and preparing a good repertoire requires a lot of energy and time. Energy for the development of appropriate areas of the brain responsible for learning to sing, and time, because every learning requires time. Young animals that live in conditions of greater stress and are worse at getting food do not have the comfort of devoting time and resources to learn how to sing to the same extent that the birds growing up in more friendly circumstances. This is why females listen so much to the singing of males in order to choose a provider of the best genes for their offspring. Great reed warblers have two types of songs in their repertoire, or rather two versions of it – long

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

planet earth

evaluate the song of a potential partner before deciding to "marry". Those males who, as stronger ones, will fly faster from sub-Saharan wintering grounds will occupy better territories – and so the circle closes. In this context, it is also interesting that females who arrive later at the breeding grounds have a tough nut to crack. They have to decide whether to be the first lady for a weaker male, which other females have not chosen, or to become number two and create a brood with a strong, but already paired male. It should be added that the leading role here is played by the quality of the territory, which, according to the female, may be too weak, in the case of the free male, compared to the territory of the already paired male. In great reed warblers, there is a mixed approach to monogamy – some couples do indeed follow this path, but some males cultivate polygyny, i.e. this variety of polygamy, when they "serve" two or more females at the same time (ecologists call this optional polygyny – not always occurring). In the thicket of reeds and with poor visibility, the female may not realise that her chosen one was not only chosen by her. Explaining the behaviour of females occupying the position number two in a bird relationship (in fact, a kind of triangle is formed, so maybe the number three would be more appropriate?) the hypothesis of a "sexy son" was put forward. According to it, the female, by providing her male descendants with the opportunity to inherit polygynous behaviour from her father, would increase the chances of passing on and spreading her genes in the population in the long run, since her sons will fertilise

planet earth

One of the Hungarian ornithologists reported many years ago that he observed such a massive and effective attack of great weed warblers on a cuckoo that finally it got drowned.

a larger number of females. However, the matter is not quite

that they can produce different types of eggs, so that these

simple, because there is often a greater mortality of chicks due

most closely resemble those that are already present in the

to insufficient food in the nests of females with the status of

nest of the selected foster parents for the cuckoo baby bird.

"number two". Besides, males also pay a price for more exten-

By now several types of eggs have already been described!

sive contacts with females. Ornithologists have noticed that the

Research on the inheritance of the ability to mimicry (making

amount of parasites in such males can be higher than in those

own eggs similar to the eggs of a selected host in this case)

that have contact with only one female. As the folk saying says,

and participation in this process of both sexes brings extreme-

also in this case the stick has two ends.

ly interesting discoveries – perhaps one day there will be an

Male great reed warblers do not engage excessively in the

opportunity to expand on this a bit more. Mimicry can be bet-

care of the brood (especially the second one), but are able to

ter or worse, so great reed warblers sometimes effectively

take care of safety when such a need arises. They use alarm

recognise another bird's eggs and get rid of them from the

voices, although they do not always are eager to use them.

nest. Some sources report that in about 30 percent of cases

This is because they do not want to reveal the location of the

they reject cuckoo eggs, but this percentage decreases as the

nest. For the same reason, some individuals react less well to

time of hatching of young great reed warblers approaches.

the threat and, for example, do not take part in chasing away

This is because if the chicks hatch in front of the cuckoo, their

the cuckoo. But sometimes they can get their act together

survival is not threatened, as is the opposite case. When the

and chase away a cuckoo, whose nefarious plans to toss eggs

cuckoo hatches first, it itself gets rid of the eggs of the hosts

often target these birds. The great weed warblers can even

from the nest. Such silent dramas take place in beautiful, bas-

hurt them a bit harder. One of the Hungarian ornithologists

ket-shaped nests woven by the female on the stems of reeds

reported many years ago that he observed such a massive

sticking out from the water.

and effective attack of great weed warblers on a cuckoo that

Look on the Internet for the singing of a great reed warbler

finally it got drowned. And again, not all individuals join the

and when one day you hear (and you will definitely hear!) this

armed action against the invader, because during such mob-

song by the lake and you would like to see the singer, wait

bing activities (this is not a mistake – this is the name used in

a moment or two in stillness. Great weed warblers have a small

ecology) the nest remains unguarded, and this can be used

escape distance and, as a rule, when singing, climb higher and

by predators or others ... cuckoos. These brood parasites re-

higher on the reeds, and sometimes even they sit on higher

sort to various means to achieve the goal. It has been proven

shrubs or trees. Good luck with your overwater observations!

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

tips & curiosities ACADEMY

MANOMETERS Text Wojciech A. Filip

Photo Tomasz Płociński

PS:

Did you know that while opening the tank valve you shouldn’t turn the manometer face (glass) down? If there is 30 bar left in the tank, is there actually 30 bar? What is a manometer accuracy class?

But in the very beginning!? For those who do not like to read as much, I prepared a special summary. You’ll find it at the end of the article.

very manometer comes with some kind of scale (graduation) and information about the units of the manometer readings. Diving manometers are scaled in bars or PSI

(a British measurement scale that uses higher numerical values, as 1 PSI=0.07 bar). We can also come across double scale manometers.

tips

& curiosities

ACADEMY

Divers assume that if the manometer shows that there is 150 bar left in the tank, there is actually 150 bar left. Our manometer readings are often treated as the key factor when planning dives, where the calculation of the amount of gas at our disposal is necessary. The manometer accuracy class tells us how large a discrepancy between the manometer readings and actual pressure value we can expect. The accuracy class indicates an acceptable percentage error. A manometer’s accuracy class concerns its measurement range. In Europe we have seven accuracy classes marked as CL (KL in Polish manometers) plus numbers from 0.1 through 0.25, 0.6, 1.0, 1.6, from 2.5 to 4.0, denoting the class. American standards also have a 5.0 accuracy class. WHAT’S THE MEANING OF AN ACCURACY CLASS? If the manometer is marked as CL 1.0, so it has an accuracy Photo Bartek Trzciński

class of 1 (one), and its measurement range is, for instance, 300 bar, the manometer’s readings can differ from actual pressure by 1% of 300 bar up or down. It means that when such a manometer shows, lets say, 100 bar, the actual pressure may vary between 97 to 103 bar. The same manometer with an accuracy class CL 4,0 and

How accurate diving manometers are? They do not come with a class marked, which means that the effective measurement can be burdened with an error of more than 4% or even 5%.

with the same 100 bar pressure has the acceptable error at

In the example above, the manometer with a 7% measure-

12 bar, so the actual pressure in the tank may be between

ment error would show 100 bar, while the actual pressure val-

88 to 112 bar.

ue could be between 79 and 121 bar.

Photo Bartek Trzciński

PERFECTDIVER

No. 3(21)/2022

tips & curiosities ACADEMY

DO DIVING MANOMETERS GET WORN? Yes, usually its due to the fact that it’s nice to have just a lit-

should be treated as estimate gauge of how much gas we have,

tle more gas in the tank

not precise measurement devices.

If the manometer is scaled for 200

bar and its actual work range is 200 bar (you can check it on the manufacturer’s sticker on the back side of the manometer

Manometer accuracy class is really important when it comes to servicing diving equipment.

head), it would work best if we used 75–80% of its measurement range. However, divers are happiest when there is well over 200 bar in the tank. A manometer working outside its range gets

The common mistake to make is thinking the ma-

damaged – for example it can turn out that at lower pressures

nometer scale is also its measurement range. The pop-

the hand gets stuck indicating a higher value than the actual

ular graduation up to 300 bar used in manometers that

pressure in the tank. Thus its poor accuracy becomes even poor-

work with a lower pressure mostly lets you easily identify

er. If we worsen it just by a little bit, to 10% for instance, the

“half the tank left” status, which is facilitated by marking

difference between the 300 bar range manometer readings and

100 bar in the middle of the manometer – at the same

reality will reach 30 bar. This means that a 30 bar manometer

time these manometers usually work at a range slightly

reading may mean 0 (zero) bar in the tank!

over 200 bar.

The common mistake to make is thinking the manometer

Check the actual working pressure of your manome-

scale is also its measurement range. The popular graduation up

ter on its “nameplate” that is the sticker on the back side

to 300 bar used in manometers that work with a lower pressure

of the device.

mostly lets you easily identify “half the tank left” status, which is facilitated by marking 100 bar in the middle of the manometer – at the same time these manometers usually work at a range slightly over 200 bar. Check the actual working pressure of your manometer.

should not be lower than 2,5 if the manometer’s scale finishes

It is easy to reach the conclusion, that our manometers

at 16 bar.

Photo Tomasz Płociński

Ask your service staff what manometer accuracy class they use when they service your diving regulators. The class

tips

& curiosities

ACADEMY

Small manometers without an accuracy class marked are

I’d like to invite you all to visit Tecline Academy – all the matters

mostly used by the service staff to see if the pressure is rising

related to manometers are discussed there in detail in service

or falling and should not be used for diving regulator calibra-

staff training, but also at seminars for divers who want to know

tion. For diagnostic purposes, large face manometers with

their gear better. See you!

a clear graduation are best.

WAF IMPORTANT mano FACTS P.S — Manometers feel best at 75% of their maximum working range. If they can work safely at higher pressures (for example reaching the top of the scale), there is an arrowhead or triangle mark at the position of the maximum allowable pressure. — Manometers flooded with oil are secured against damage

Did you know that while opening the tank valve you shouldn’t turn the manometer face down? This is unsafe, because every manometer has a failsafe While turning the tank valve open, you should be looking at the manometer, not turn it face down. Make sure you do this and learn why turning it face down can be dangerous

and provide accurate readings when the device they work on generates vibration or the pressure value changes dy-

Reading this will take you a little over a minute.

namically over a short time – such manometers are typically found in compressors. — Manometers with a so called stop pin (a pin on which the hand should rest at 0/zero) work properly within 10–100% of their range, while the ones without it within 0–100%.

Have you noticed that technical divers never turn the manometer face down, while turning the tank open, while recreational divers do this almost every time

Advanced divers also make sure that there is a special hole in the back of the manometer cover – you will learn why below.

´ How to test the accuracy of the diving manometer readings?

Very, I mean VERY old manometers did not come fitted with

´ When to use an electronic manometer?

the failsafe – if they lost integrity, the glass used back then,

´ Are there diving manometers with an accuracy class?

which was not tempered, could break. It was well over thirty

´ What does an upside down “T” on the manometer gradu-

years ago.

ation mean?

Photo Bartek Trzciński

tips & curiosities ACADEMY

Photo Bartek Trzciński

All manometers used today come with a system that prevents the glass “explosion.” It’s a small rubber failsafe, pressed

want to feel safe when opening the tank valve, position the manometer with the failsafe facing down.

into the manometer back cover (looks like a black dot). If the pressure rise that occurs inside the manometer due to dam-

PPS.

age, the failsafe “pops out” to prevent the glass from breaking.

Just hold on a moment...

There will be gas coming out the back side of the manometer

... there are manometers with a plastic face – they don’t have

through a small hole.

a failsafe!?

Look at your consoles or manometer housings. They have a small hole in the back wall that houses the failsafe. If you

See you at the Academy!

https://teclinediving.eu/tecline-academy/#/

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PORTUGAL 2022 INTERNATIONAL DIVING SHOW 7-9 OCTOBER

Perfect Diver Magazine 21 issue

Articles inside

„MANTA” PROJECT

YUCATAN DIFFERENTLY

IN THE LAND OF DRAGONS

SALEM EXPRESS