Perfect Diver Magazine issue 23

TACTICAL SEARCH RESCUE

WOJCIECH ZGOŁA Editor-in-Chief

The cover itself shows that there is no autumn under the water, and the reef and its noble inhabitants remain colorful, demonstrating actually full palette of colors.

Even wreck fanatics like (unless they don't know it yet) the amazing gardens of corals, anemones and all kinds of smaller and larger creatures found there.

What is the condition of these reefs after the last 2 years of the pandemic and increased tourist traffic this year? In one of the articles, we answer this question directly, and Laura Kazimierska is stationed in Indonesia where she looks at the changes and phenomena taking place every day. The article is embellished with photos by Karola Takes Photos, who uses only naturally existing light. But that's not all about the reefs. We also have for you an underwater look at Bali written with Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz's pen and great photos by Adrian Juriewicz (the cover belongs to Adrian!) showing the beauty that we can see with our own eyes from the other side of the mirror.

The current issue opens with an article by Kurt Storms about the wrecks of Scapa Flow, a place called mecca pf wreck divers (at least one of many). See how, from his perspective, Kurt describes these dives.

A few pages later, Jakub Banasiak reveals sensational news about disappearing dolphins. The first announcement of the Maltese dolphinarium reported that the dolphins had been transported to Spain. See how the terrible process really looked step by step and do not attend any dolphinariums.

Ania Sołoducha develops and concludes her text about sharks. They are super-important for the stabilization of the ecosystem on our planet. They also blend beautifully with the reefs mentioned above.

The issue of Magazine 4/2022 dealt mainly with the Mediterranean. Not all articles en tered that issue, so now you can look again at or remember your experiences about Montenegro and Croatia.

And in the evening, with a cup of warm tea, I invite you to a meeting with the story of Mateusz Popek and Szymon Mosakowski about the polar mystery of Endurance. Is it possible to survive 560 days and nights in extreme cold? Yes! However, back then, there were no satellite phones...

And now the question! Can a recreational diver dive with a stage? Is recreational diving a decompression dive? Many of you like the last article of the edition, because there is knowledge, practical and theoretical, and there is always the opportunity to develop the topic personally with Wojtek A. Filip, the author of these texts.

Finally, try to get into the "skin" of salmon, as well as listen to the sound of common sandpiper.

Enjoy!

PLANET EARTH

Reef in times of plague. The impact of the pandemic period on coral reefs Disappearing dolphins Sharks, part II What is it like to be a salmon? Loud wading birds

Publisher PERFECT DIVER WOJCIECH ZGOŁA ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com

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WOJCIECH ZGOŁA

Passionate about diving and pure nature. He likes to say that he travels by diving. He learned to swim when he was less than 6 years old. At the age of 15, he obtained a yacht sailor's license and has been diving since 2006. He has completed over 750 dives in various regions of the world. He wrote and published many articles.

Co-author of photo exhibitions. An advocate of leaving the place of residence clean and unblemished. Diving promoter. Since 2008 he has been running his own website www.dive-adventure.eu. Based on extensive experience, in 2018 he created the new Perfect Diver Magazine, which has been successfully published regularly every two months in Polish and English for 3 years.

An IT specialist by profession, but a flesh and blood salesman who is not afraid of any job. Diving has always been my big dream. At the beginning it was supposed to be a challenge, a short episode but it turned out to be a passion for the end of the world and one day longer. Under water I react and rest. As a Divemaster, sidemount Razor diver, and recently also a pho tographer, I realize my dreams by admiring and immortalizing the beauty of the underwater world. "Passion breeds professionalism, professionalism gives quality, and quality is a luxury in life. Nowadays, especially..."

”My passion, work and life are under water.” He has been diving since 2009. Since 2008, he's walking in caves. Underwater archeologist by education. He participated in numerous projects in Poland and abroad. He has been engaged in professional diving since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the quali fications of a 2nd class diver. Has experience in underwater work both at sea and inland. Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, especially in the mountains, and since 2014 he is a diving instructor CMAS M1. In June 2020, he obtained a doctoral degree in underwater archeology.

Karolina Sztaba, and professionally Karola Takes Photos, is a photographer by education and passion. She is currently working at the Trawangan Dive Center on a tiny island in Indonesia – Gili Trawangan, where she moved to live four years ago. She photographs above and below the water. In addition, she creates photographic projects against littering the oceans and polluting our planet with plastic ("Trapped", "Trashion"). She cooperates with NGO organi zations dealing with environmental protection and actively participates in pro-ecological actions (coral protection, coral planting, cleaning the world, protection of endangered species). She is also the official photographer of Ocean Mimic – a brand that creates swimwear and surfwear from rubbish collected on the beaches of Bali. She cooperated with many brands of diving equipment for which she created advertising campaigns. In 2019, she became the ambassador of the Polish company Tecline. She has been a technical diver for two years.

MATEUSZ POPEK

HUBERT REISS

KAROLA TAKES PHOTOS

WOJCIECH A. FILIP

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He has been diving for over 30 years, including over 20 years as a technical diver. He is a professional with great theoretical and practical knowledge. He is an instructor of many federations: GUE Instruc tor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS PADI, EFR, TMX Gas Blender. He participated in many diving projects and conferences as a leader, explorer, originator or lecturer. These included the Britan nic Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave Scientific Project on Croatia caves, GROM Expedition in Narvik, Tuna Mine Deep Dive, Glavas Cave in Croa tia, NOA-MARINE. Professionally, he is a technical director at TecLine in Scubatech, and a director of training at TecLine Academy.

ANNA SOŁODUCHA

A graduate of Geography faculty at the University of Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with a per manent smile on her lips! It was probably Destiny that led her to Activtour… and she's been here on permanent basis. She passionately fulfils the dreams of many, organizing diving trips around the world, and she has already been diving for more than half of her life. Each year she explores a different ‘piece of the ocean’, pinning another pin to her diving world map. In winter she changes fins into her beloved skis and gets away into the Alps. A recipe for life? ”The only a dead trunk flows with the current – the explorer's canoe flows up the river!” anna@activtour.pl activtour.pl; travel.activtour.pl; 2bieguny.com

Student of archeology at the Nicolaus Copernicus University in Toruń. A beginner diver starting his adventure with underwater archeology. A lover of photography, nature and basketball, and recently also diving.

Polish photographer, winner of awards and dis tinctions in world underwater photography com petitions, has already dived all over the world: with sharks and whales in South Africa, with orcs be hind the Arctic Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds of hammerhead sharks and humpback whales in the Tonga Islands. He participates in specialist photographic workshops. He has been diving for 27 years, he started at the age of 12 – as soon as it was formally possible. He was the first in the world to use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for underwater macro photography. Recently, in the remote Chincorro archipelago on the border be tween Mexico and Belize, he did it again, taking a successful attempt to photograph the eye of a crocodile with a macro lens with an additional magnifying lens, which is the world's largest photo of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of pixel count, print size, quality).

"Wet photos" – He has photographed since he remembers. After several years of experience as a diver, he wanted to keep memories of underwa ter dives. He bought his first compact camera with an underwater housing. Over time, however, the desire to have the best photo began to dominate, which was not quite possible with the compact he used. That's why he switched to the Olympus PEN E-PL 5 reflex camera, which allows the use of several different lenses. He uses a combination of underwater flashes and lights. He focuses on wildlife photography, not arrangement. He photo graphs in fresh domestic waters as well as in the seas and oceans of the world. He has already won numerous awards at Czech and foreign photography competitions. More photos can be found on his website, where you can also buy them not only as photos, but also as photos printed on canvas or on another medium. www.mokrefotky.cz www.facebook.com/MichalCernyPhotography www.instagram.com/michalcerny_photography/

SYLWIA KOSMALSKA-JURIEWICZ

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature. A graduate of journalism and a lover of good liter ature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian. Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and their protection are especially close to her heart. She writes about the subject in numerous articles and on her blog www.divingandtravel.pl. She be gan her adventure with diving fifteen years ago by total coincidence. Today she is a Divemaster, she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 con tinents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is a co-founder.

SZYMON MOSAKOWSKI

MICHAL ČERNÝ

JAKUB DEGEE

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Acad emy of Physical Education (coaching specializa tion – handball) and the University of A.Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biol ogy). He connected his professional life with this first university trying to influence the direction of development of future professionals on the one hand, and on the other planning and implement ing research, pushing laboriously in the right di rection of the stroller called science. In his free time he spends his time actively – his main pas sions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational diving and many other activities, as well as pho tography, mainly nature.

”I can't imagine living without water, where in a free body I experience freedom of the spirit.”

• founder of the first freediving and swimming school in Poland – FREEBODY,

• Apnea Academia International and PADI Master Freediver freediving instructor,

• world record holder in freediving (DYN 253 m),

• record holder and Polish champion, member of the national team in freediving 2013–2019,

• winner of the World Championships in freed iving 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018,

• multimedalist of the Polish Championships and a member of the national team in swim ming in the years 1998–2003,

• passionate about freediving and swimming.

That's my name and I come from Poznań. I have been associated with water practically from birth and with diving since I learned to walk. My grand father instilled my passion for the underwater world, a CMAS*** instructor taking me to the lakes at any free time. I obtained my first qual ifications in 1996. A year later I went to Croatia and literally went crazy at the sight of blue wa ter, octopus and colorful fish;) I bought my first underwater camera – Olympus 5060 and started the adventure with underwater photography. I ac quired my diving experience in the Canary Islands, Sardinia, Norway, Maldives and in Polish lakes. I am currently a Padi and ESA instructor, I train diving enthusiasts in Europe and pass my passion on to others.

I invite all lovers of the underwater world and photography to Beediver (FB) – see you soon.

Since I was a child, I had dreamed of becoming a marine biologist and I managed to fulfill that dream. I did a degree in oceanography, where I recently started my doctoral studies. My diving adventure began when I was 12 years old. I love observing the underwater life up close and I try to show other divers how fascinating the under water, Baltic creatures are.

IRENA KOSOWSKA

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Polska, diving and first aid instructor, technical diver and cave diver. In love with all flooded, dark, cold, tight places and invariably from the beginning of the diving route – in the Baltic. Implementing the DAN mission, he conducts a series of lectures ”Dive safely” and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field research of divers for scientific purposes.

Laura Kazimierska is currently working as PADI Course Director at TrawanganDive Center on the Indonesian island of Gili Trawangan. Founder of the Divemastergilis portal. www.divemastergilis.com @divemastergilis

For over 7 years she has lived and discovered the underwater world of Indonesia. She is not only an avid technical diver, but also the face of the Planet Heroes platform and the ambassador of the Ocean Mimic brand. She actively contributes to the pro motion of the protection of corals and the natural environment of fish and marine animals by taking part in scientific projects, campaigns against ocean littering and cooperating with NGOs in Indonesia.

@laura_kazi

AGATA TUROWICZ-CYBULA

LAURA KAZIMIERSKA

BARTOSZ PSZCZÓŁKOWSKI

AGNIESZKA KALSKA

WOJCIECH JAROSZ

Belgium Military, underwater cave explorer and active technical/ cave/ rebreather diving instructor for IANTD. He started his diving career in Egypt on vacation, and his passion continues. Kurt is also the founder and CEO of Descent Technical Diving. He dives on several CCRs such as AP, SF2, Dive soft Liberty SM. Kurt is involved in the creation of the document about the new salt mine in Belgium (Laplet). This project was featured in the news on Nationale TV.

Privately, Kurt's true passion is deep cave diving. His wife (Caroline) shares her husband's passions and also dives in caves. In his free time, he visits Belgian slate mines, and when he is not exploring, he takes his camera to document the dives.

PADI diving instructor and videographer. She spends most of his time in the water document ing a fascinating underwater world. She graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in the field of Fash ion Design in Łódź and Film studies at the Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, trained as a tai lor, and with a love of nature and a large dose of adrenaline. She loves everything related to water. Her diving adventure began with a backpacking trip in 2016. During her stay in Thailand she dived for the first time and from then on she got hooked on at this sport. Spending the last years and most of her days under water, teaching and showing the beauty of the underwater world in Asia, she believes that diving means unity – unity with own mind, nature and unusual creatures. @waterographyk

Diver from 2008. Passionate of the Red Sea and pelagic ocean predators. Devoted to the idea of protecting dolphins, sharks and whales. He dives mainly where you can meet these animals and monitor the level of their well-being. Member of Dolphinaria-Free Europe Coalition, volunteer at Tethys Research Institute and Cetacean Research & Rescue Unit, associate of Marine Connection. For 10 years he has been involved in research on wild dolphin populations and audits dolphinariums. Together with the team ”NO! For the Dolphinari um” he prevents dolphins from captivity and pro motes knowledge about dolphin therapy unsaid or concealed by centers which make money on this form of animal therapy.

Professor at the Department of Sociology, Adam Mickiewicz University. A psychologist, sociologist, and forensic expert in animal welfare, dog ethol ogy, and human-dog relations. She initiated the creation of the Inter-species Relations Section in the Polish Sociological Association. Member of the Local Ethics Committee for Animal Testing. A twotime scholarship holder of the Fulbright Founda tion, British Council, Leibniz Institute for Regional Development and Structural Planning in Erkner (Germany), Central European University in Buda pest, European University Institute in Florence, Stefan Batory Foundation, the winner of Polityka magazine scholarship campaign, and numerous awards and distinctions. Multiple participant of Socrates Erasmus and Socrates Erasmus Mundus

programmes. She lectures in Poland and abroad and has extensive international cooperation with the United States of America. She works towards understanding animal needs and promoting ani mal welfare in human social practice. In her aca demic work, she pays great attention to making interdisciplinary connections between different scientific fields in order to integrate activities and information that promote an understand ing-based approach to human-nonhuman rela tionships. She collaborates with law enforcement agencies in Animal Welfare Act investigations. She also works with non-governmental organisations, local authorities, and homeless animal shelters. She runs a temporary home for anxious, with drawn, and distrustful dogs.

KLAUDYNA BRZOSTOWSKA

JAKUB BANASIAK

HANNA MAMZER

KURT

Scapa Flow

Text and photos KURT STORMS

WHO WOULDN'T WANT TO GO DIVING AT SCAPA FLOW? I HAD THOUGHTS LIKE THESE FOR YEARS. IT WAS DUE TO CIRCUMSTANCES THAT I HAD NOT MADE IT THERE BEFORE, UNTIL ONE DAY A FRIEND OF MINE, STIJN, SENT ME A TEXT MESSAGE. HE WAS ASKING WHETHER I’D FANCY GOING ON A TRIP TO THE FAR NORTH OF SCOTLAND.

It took no long consideration to make the decision and after about 4 hours Stijn’s charter was full. The charter boat we were going to dive with was the MV Huskyan, with Emily as the skipper. Wow, I had never seen such a diving charter –the finishing of this boat is perfection, designed and delivered especially by divers and for divers.

THE GERMAN FLEET OF SCAPA FLOW Scapa Flow is a huge natural harbour in the Orkney Islands, enclosing more than 100 square miles of relatively calm waters. The islands were used as protection for the British fleet in both World Wars. With the signing of the Armistice of 11 November 1918, the German fleet was quartered at Scapa with a skeleton crew until its fate could be decided. Admiral von Reuter mistakenly thought that war was about to break out and therefore gave the order to scuttle the fleet on 19 June 1919. The order was quickly carried out while the British ships guarding the Germans were out on an exercise and could not stop them. A total of 51 ships went to the bot tom of Scapa Flow, with others being grounded to prevent them from sinking.

GERMAN

SMS Brummer

After the war, most of the ships were salvaged for scrap, but seven remain submerged in Scapa Flow's waters forever.

Scapa Flow is one of the jewels in the crown of British scuba diving. The remnants of the German fleet still lie in the current, which provides effective protection against any salvage or diver interference. These dive sites are among the best scuba sites in the world, with the behemoths of battleships rising from a depth of 47 m to 20 m, guns pointed into the vast green, seemingly on perpetual patrol. Battered cruisers resting on their flanks, their superstructures slowly falling to the seabed after more than 100 years under water.

HOW TO GET TO SCAPA FLOW:

Getting to Scapa Flow is a logistical challenge for us from main land Europe. We travelled together with my regular diving part ner, Willem, and my wife Caroline with a van.

The route was as follows: we drove to 'De Hoek of Holland' and there we took the ferry to Harwich. This trip took about 6 hours, so we could rest a bit before our trip to the far north. We had to drive about 12 hours before we arrived at Scarbster, where we met another part of the team that had come via a dif

ferent route. From Scrabster, we took the ferry to Stromness, which was a 90 minutes trip.

The accommodation is in a cottage, which is equipped for 12 people with all the facilities you could want. A big advantage is that it is only a 3-minute walk from the harbor where the MV Huskyan is moored.

We could safely stow away our equipment, consisting of rebreathers and OC double sets, on the boat that very same evening, so we had time the next day to get an extensive boat-briefing.

Emily leaves with her boat at about 8:30 each day. As the dive sites are always about 1 hour away, Emily has the oppor tunity each time to give her extensive briefings on the wrecks. Her knowledge of history and Scapa is unmatched. If there ever was a reason that would make me think of going out with her, that would be it. Since most of our group were cave divers, identifying and recognizing wreck parts was very difficult for us. With Emily’s fascinating descriptions, describing the best routes for diving the wreck and taking nice pictures, every dive was a pleasure. Yes, we even recognised some wreck parts, which otherwise would have only been a piece of metal.

SMS Dresden

OUR FAMOUS WRECK DIVE SITES

INCLUDED:

SMS Dresden

The Dresden lies on its port side, at a depth ranging from 23 metres at the bow to 38 metres at the stern. The dis tance from the surface to the hull is about 20–22 metres.

History

SMS Dresden was a light cruiser of the Cöln class, one of only two ships of this class to be completed. The other was her sister ship, SMS Cöln, which also lies on the seabed of Scapa Flow.

SMS Dresden was built by Howaldts werke in Kiel and launched on 25 April 1917. She was a replacement for the earlier SMS Dresden, which had sunk off Robinson Crusoe Island off the coast of Chile after the Battle of the Falklands in 1915.

Dresden and her sister ship SMS Cöln were completed during the First World War.

After the surrender of Germany in 1918, the SMS Dresden became one of the last two ships to be interned at Scapa Flow. Due to a turbine failure, the SMS Dresden was unable to sail to Sca pa in November along with the rest of the High Seas Fleet. Instead, the cruiser arrived at Scapa Flow on 6 December 1918, badly damaged.

SMS Dresden

SMS Dresden

SMS Dresden

SMS Dresden

SMS Cöln

The Cöln lies on her starboard side at 34–36 m, with the top of the wreck reaching some 22 m.

She is in very good condition, with plenty of life and very little current, the shotline descends to approximately 22 m, making it a very easy dive.

History

SMS Cöln was a light cruiser of the Cöln class and one of only two ships of this class to be completed. The other is her sister ship SMS Dresden.

SMS Cöln was built in Hamburg by Blohn & Voss with the construction num ber 247. The construction of SMS Cöln started in 1915 and she was launched on 5 October 1916.

She was the second ship to bear this name, the previous Cöln (1909) having sunk during the Battle of Heligoland Bight, the first naval battle of WW1, fought on 28 August 1914.

There has been some confusion over the years about the spelling, is it Cöln or Köln? Köln is the name for the city of Cologne, Cöln is the correct spelling, as can clearly be seen on the ship's bell in the Lyness museum on Hoy.

SMS Cöln saw little action during the war.

On 21 November 1918, the SMS Cöln arrived in the Firth of Forth and then sailed further north for internment at Scapa Flow.

SMS Karlsruhe

The Karlsruhe lies on her starboard side, at some 45 degrees, resting at a maxi mum depth of 27 metres and rising shal lower up to about 16 metres.

She is the shallowest and most bro ken up of all the German fleet wrecks, but she is also the most beautiful one, with lots of fish and marine life.

History

The SMS Karlsruhe was a light cruiser of the Königsberg class, built in Wil helmshaven at the Kaiserliches werf as the construction number 41. She was

SMS Karlsruhe

SMS Karlsruhe

SMS Karlsruhe

named Karlsruhe after her namesake, which sank in the Caribbean in 1914.

SMS Karlsruhe had three sister ships, Emden, Königsberg and Nürnberg.

Karlsruhe was commissioned into the High Seas Fleet in November 1916. She served in the II Scouting Group, along side SMS Königsberg and Nürnberg. The ships patrolled the Helgoland Bight in the North Sea, where they protected minesweepers from British light troops.

The Karlsruhe was the only one of her class to be sunk by the Germans, as the SMS Nürnberg and Emden were both sunk by the British.

The wreck was sold in 1962 and par tially broken up between 1963 and 1965.

SMS Kronprinz Wilhelm

The “Seiner majestät Schiff” (SMS) Kro nprinz lies tilted at 38 metres depth, with her port side up, rising to 12 metres at its shallowest.

History

The Kronprinz Wilhelm was initially named Kronprinz, and later renamed Kronprinz Wilhelm in 1918 in honour of the Crown Prince Wilhelm.

The ship was a König class battlec ruiser, one of four ships of this class.

The other three were König, Grosser Kurfürst and Markgraf.

The Kronprinz was built in Kiel in 1911 and launched in February 1914.

In March 1917, the Kronprinz was also rammed by its sister ship Gross er Kurfürst, which was beginning to become a bit of a habit. The collision opened up her hull to tons of water and forced her back to the dry dock in Wil helmshaven for repairs.

The Kronprinz took part in the Battle of Jutland and was part of the vanguard fleet, suffering no damage or loss of life.

SMS Markgraf

Probably one of the most impressive dives you'll ever make, from a maximum depth of 47 metres at the bow to 24 me tres at its shallowest. This really puts the

scale of these things into perspective, with her twin rudders being 3.5 metres high – this is probably Scapas most icon ic wreck.

History

Seiner Majestät Schiff (SMS) Markgraf was built in Germany as No 186 by A.G. Weser in Bremen, according to the same specifications as her sister ships König, Kronprinz and Grosser Kurfürst. She was the third of the four König – class battleships, carrying a crew of 1136 officers and sailors.

She was launched on 4 June 1913.

Two years later, in 1916, her six 3.4-inch guns were removed under the bridge section, making room for addi tional accommodation and for addition al radio rooms.

She took part in the Battle of Jutland under the command of Kapitan Seifer ling. During the battle, she was hit by three 15-inch shells, the first two did not explode, but the third tore a huge hole in her side, just behind her rear turret.

SMS Karlsruhe

SMS Karlsruhe

SMS Markgraf

SMS Markgraf SMS Markgraf

SMS Markgraf

SMS König

Today this wreck lies completely upside down with its bow facing north.

The König lies at 40 metres depth, with the hull rising to 24 metres, offer ing something to see for divers of almost all levels.

She is the most damaged of all the German fleet wrecks, due to extensive salvage operations Nundy's (Metal In dustries). This makes it a very interesting dive, as it is the only wreck where we can see the inner workings of these mighty battleships.

History

Built in 1911 and launched in 1913, the König was one of four König-class bat tleships in the Imperial High Seas Fleet. She was commissioned in 1914 and led the fleet in the Battle of Jutland.

She began her service with a bit of bad luck in December 1914, first by

SMS König

SMS König

running aground in the Kaiser Wilhelm Canal, and then by being rammed in the ass by the sister ship Grosser Kurfürst.

The König was involved in the heavi est fighting during the Battle of Jutland. At 19.32 hours on the first day, she was hit and listed to port.

She suffered 10 heavy and six medi um hits, 45 men were killed, including one officer, and another 27 men were wounded.

On 6 December 1918, the König and the cruiser Dresden were the last two ships to arrive in Scapa Flow for their internment.

SMS Brummer

The Brummer lies on her starboard side, at about 36 metres, rising to a depth of some 22 metres.

A nice easy dive for all levels, with very little current.

History

The Brummer was a fast mine-lay ing cruiser and was lighter armoured and less heavily armed than the light cruisers. She could carry 400 mines,

two to four times as many as the light cruisers, and was very manoeuvrable. She was built by A. G. Vulcan in Stet tin as construction number 422. She was launched on 11 December 1915.

SMS König

SMS Brummer

wrecks

In October 1917, the Brummer was one of two ships used to intercept a British convoy en route from Bergen to Lerwick. She was chosen for this task because of her high speed, and the fact that she resembled a British cruiser.

In preparation for the attack, the crew painted the ship dark grey to fur

ther camouflage her from looking like a British ship.

SMS Brummer arrived at Scapa Flow for internment in November 1918.

AFTERWORD:

All these wrecks are enormous. It’s a great pleasure to dive them, but

time has already done some damage. However, these will always be beauti ful dives.

Especially with all the information we got from the crew, Duncan, Jeffrey and Emily, this week was one we will never forget.

Contacts: Emily Turton

Mobile: +44 (0)7974 178612

Tel: +44 (0)1856 850 292

Email: info@huskyan.com

https://www.huskyan.com

Postal address:

Huskyan Dive Charters

110 Victoria Street Stromness, Orkney KW16 3BU, UK

SMS Brummer

SMS Brummer

Text Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz

Photos Adrian Juriewicz

20 Bali travels continued

Loren Eiseley

The next day after breakfast we set off for the dive, sail ing in a speed boat from Sanur to the dive site took us about 45 minutes. As we leave the harbour, the captain suddenly shuts down the engines, the boat stops, silence en sues, only the slapping of the long ocean waves against the side of the ship can be heard. Putu, the captain's assistant, grabs a bamboo thanksgiving basket filled with flowers and rice, lights an incense, and starts speaking to the gods, asking them to protect him during the dive. Then he lays the basket on the surface of the water and the waves carry it away in their embrace. After this unusual rite, the captain turns on the boat's engines and we sail to our first dive site. Today it is the shores of the island of Nusa Penida, at a location called Manta Point. Once we arrive, we get dressed in our wetsuits and jump into the water, there is a swell that pushes us towards the tree-lined rocks. We let all the air out of our lungs and unhurriedly plunge below the surface of the water. The rocky bottom is overgrown with small reef and visibility reaches over 10 metres. We surrender to the force of the surf which seems like the breath of the ocean. As the ocean inhales we pull back, and when it exhales, we swim forward moving our fins quickly. We dive lower, where after a while we hear the sound of a rattle

used by our dive guide to signal the appearance of a man ta ray. First one arrives, slowly flapping its 'wings' as if about to take to the air. After a while, another and another appear. I try to contain my emotions, which are as violent as a thun derstorm in the middle of summer, and in an instant, I feel joy and great emotion. I can hear the others shouting with joy into their breathing apparatuses. It is an overwhelming happiness and a privilege to be in this otherworldly, delightful world. From time to time we move our fins admiring the incredible dance of some of the most beautiful creatures inhabiting the Oceans. After an hour-long surface break, during which we had a delicious lunch, it was time for another dive, this time at a site called Cristal Bay. This unusual site is located opposite a beautiful coral beach, where you can see colourful umbrellas from a distance and just behind them a wall of green coconut palms. The beautiful, very exotic picture creates an extraordi nary scenery for unique dives. Off the coast of Nusa Penida between July and November (the date is movable and conven tional), one can observe the archaic, yet beautiful mola mola fish also known as ocean sunfish. These remarkable creatures live at considerable depths of up to 350 m on a daily basis. With the cold ocean currents, they swim towards the surface,

If there is magic on this planet it is contained in water.

where they undergo grooming to rid their skin of parasites. Small bannerfish or angelfish play a huge role in this process. We had the immense pleasure of diving with a sunfish three years ago in September. We came across a mola mola just after diving at about 15 metres. I still remember my immense

amazement and joy at this unusual encounter. This time we didn't manage to see this unusual fish, but the dive over the reef was also exciting and full of many beautiful encounters with slightly smaller, yet adorable creatures. Shoals of small fish hide in the larger corals, a seahorse sleeps on the sand,

swayed by the light current, a sea turtle swims by unmoved by our presence, and a moray eel of considerable size hides in a rock crevice, as it if believed it is invisible.

Off the coast of the island of Nusa Penida we dived three more times during our stay in Bali. The sites we chose were SD Point, PED, Toyapakeh.

SD as well as Pura PED are located in the north of the island and are not far from each other. They are also charac terised by a similar type of diving, usually it is the so-called drift dive which means diving in the current. Both sites are characterised by very good water clarity and vibrant coral reefs which I have the impression have recovered and be come even more beautiful after a long absence of tourists. Our boat moored parallel to the shore, where we can see the low buildings and the magnificent vegetation towering above them. We jump into the water just above the beautiful coral reef. We stop at about 10 metres and swim deeper along the sloping coral-covered wall. In the dark blue depths appear the outlines of large fish – barracudas and eagle rays that slowly swim past us. We also see turtles and smaller creatures like nudibranch snails and crabs that hide in the coral reef. These places are teeming with marine life, thanks to the currents, which I feel are intensifying by the minute. Both SD Point and PED are quite a challenge for photographers, there are plenty of subjects to photograph, but it is difficult to linger over any of them for long, due to the strong current that keeps pushing us further and further. After a great dive we eat some juicy fruit on the boat overlooking the green, beautiful island of Nusa Penida.

Each of our days on the island of Bali is full of beautiful experiences, views, sunrises and sunsets, walks on the beach together, meals eaten on the shores of the ocean, delicious coffee at all times of the day, dives in various beautiful and unique places such as Tulamben.

Both SD Point and PED are quite a challenge for photographers, there are plenty of subjects to photograph, but it is difficult to linger over any of them for long, due to the strong current that keeps pushing us further and further.

The drive to Tulamben, a small fishing village, took us about two and a half hours including a short coffee break. We arrived before eleven o'clock and stopped at a small parking lot, surrounded by tropical greenery. After exiting the bus, we head towards a large restaurant open to the ocean, the pool, and the garden with coconut palms. We take our seats at a long table and order the dishes for lunch which the chef will serve us after our first dive. The beautiful, very green surroundings and the hot weather encouraged some of us to cool off in the pool before we went diving. After a briefing at which we learn not only about the creatures we can encounter under the sur face of the water, but also the history of the wreck where we are about to dive.

Diving on the wreck of the USS Liberty is done from the shore, in order to access the ship, you need to cross a rocky beach, where you keep getting rocked and knocked over by the waves which sweep into land with great force. Off the coast of Tulamben rests the sunken US Army ship called the USS Liberty, torpedoed on 11 January 1942 by a Japanese sub marine. It was carrying valuable cargo, so after the bombing two American destroyers took it in tow to salvage what it was transporting. However, the damage proved so severe that the USS Liberty could not be towed to Singaraja – its final desti nation. It was decided to plant the sinking ship on the nearest beach at Tulamben to save the cargo. There it laid for 20 years left to the harsh effects of the sun, wind, and people who dis mantled the ship piece by piece and took the valuable steel which was later used to build houses. Until 1963, the wreck

rested on the beach until the eruption of Mount Agung vol cano which I am looking at today. The eruption was so strong that the ship was pushed into the water. The hull broke in two and the wreck came to rest on a steep slope on the starboard side. The wreck can be explored by both experienced divers and those who have just started their diving adventure, as its minimum depth is 10 metres and maximum depth is 30 me tres. The ship is already in very advanced decomposition, and it is difficult to see its original shape. Sea creatures very quickly adopted the metal skeleton of the USS Liberty and the ocean engulfed it. Corals overgrow every protruding metal part of the ship and fish have made their home inside. The beauty of the site compensates for the hardship of getting in and out of the water on grey stones washed by strong waves. After the dive, we eat a delicious meal and relax in the garden which offers a unique view of the ocean.

The next dive site is located right next to the USS Liberty, so the drive took us only about five minutes. We sit on the back of a pickup truck, wearing our diving suits, bouncing over all the holes in the road. This rather unusual transport adds colour and only stimulates our imagination for what will happen next. From the main busy tarmac road, we turn left, pass two large trees, and follow a narrow path into the tropical greenery. At the end of the road, you see a fork that resembles a window overlooking the ocean. The beach is narrower than the one from which we entered the wreck dive, and all covered with colourful boats evenly stacked on wooden poles. Our gear is already waiting for us, we get dressed on the beach and slowly

The ship is already in very advanced decomposition, and it is difficult to see its original shape. Sea creatures very quickly adopted the metal skeleton of the USS Liberty and the ocean engulfed it.

enter the water. The place is called the Tulamben Wall (Drop Off). From the very moment we enter the water we feel a slight current pushing us towards the vertically dropping wall. Below us, we can see dark sand similar to that in the Lembeh Strait in North Sulawesi. A forest of sea snakes "grows" out of the dark

bottom; as we swim closer, they hide in the sand, leaving only a small depression, which also disappears after a while. They emerge again as soon as we swim away, displaying their long bodies curiously. Right next to the forest of snakes is a frame on which a reef has been planted, the different species of these

unusual creatures evenly attached to the metal structure form something resembling a modern sculpture. A sculpture on which life of our planet really depends...

We arrive at a vertical wall that drops down to 60 m. It is overgrown with beautiful live corals, a variety of sponges and

soft corals. There are also plenty of nudibranch snails, shrimps, lion fish, moray eels and small fish that swim in small schools. Having been to Bali many times, we have dived the wreck both day and night, but never at the Drop Off site which I certainly add to my list of favourite dive locations. After around half an

hour into our dive we spot a turtle, which our guides call Piniu, or Kura Kura (phonetic pronunciation), rest ing in a rocky hollow at about 15 m. We approach him slowly, so as not to startle him...

After a few days in Bali, we sail to the island of Gili Trawangan, but that's another story...

REEF in times of plague

THE IMPACT OF THE PANDEMIC PERIOD ON CORAL REEFS

THE POST-PANDEMIC TRAVEL FRENZY HAS STARTED IN FULL SWING. AIRPORTS ARE OVERLOADED, LUGGAGE LANDS NOT WHERE IT SHOULD, QUEUES DRIVE MOST TRAVELLERS CRAZY, AIR TICKET PRICES REACH THEIR ZENITH, BUT EVEN THIS DOES NOT STOP TOURISTS THIRSTY FOR REST.

Tropical destinations finally opened their borders and lifted most of the restrictions. Uh, there is one over there. Join us!

Sitting on Gili Trawangan in a café bursting at the seams, I find it hard to believe that half a year ago sitting in the same place, apart from a bored waiter, I would not have seen a living soul. The pandemic has affected everyone. Many of us devoted this time to reflection, evaluation of

Text Laura Kazimierska

Photos Karola Takes Photos

priorities, time for personal development, for others it was a period of financial failure, many businesses especially on Gili Air, Meno and Trawangan did not survive. The lack of income from tourism forced the local population to look for alternative ways of earning. How did our coral reefs cope with the pandemic? When most of the population was condemned to isolation at home or within the borders of their own country, the

environment experienced a period of rebirth. Due to the lockdown, in many places in the world, including Indonesia, there has been an improvement in water quality. And this contributed to the development of the marine environ ment, among others, seabirds, fish, marine mammals, as well as a dynamic improvement in the condition of man groves and coral reefs. Many wild animals have appreciat ed a noise and pollution-free environment without human interference. There have been numerous reports in the press about how "Nature is reclaiming its space".

The lack of tourists, the noise of motorboats and the suspension of many industries have had an incredibly positive effect on the Indonesian coastal regions. In many places, there was an increase in the number of fish, turtles, and the overall activity of the coral reef. When visiting the popular “Turtle Heaven” dive site, which is usually besieged by divers and snorkellers, I noticed that the coral, which had previously been in a deplorable state, regenerates at a surprising rate. The same phenomenon applies to other coral reefs not only around Gilis, but also Komodo and Raja

Ampat. They also had time to take a break from the crowds and calmly regenerate during the isolation period.

Corals are one of the most sensitive and diverse ecosys tems. They support millions of species living in reef areas and are considered a key point of biodiversity. They serve as sites for the development of a variety of fish and crus taceans and contribute to the production of oxygen and the recycling of carbon dioxide in the global ecosystem.

Due to the industrial revolution, warming of the oceans, increased carbon dioxide emissions, coral reefs struggle to maintain balance. And it is all because of human activity. Even a momentary pause has greatly improved the condi tion and functioning of this delicate environment.

Increased levels of greenhouse gases contribute signifi cantly to pollution and the weakening of marine ecosys tems. The increase in water acidity has degrading effects on the mollusc population as well as on the natural growth of coral. High water acidity slows down or even stops the development of the skeletal structure, dissolving calcium carbonate, which is the main building block. The lack of air traffic, the closure of many industrial companies or the reduction of their activities contributed to the reduction of

carbon dioxide concentration and at the same time water acidity, which has a regenerating effect on coral reefs.

Recent studies suggest that the occurrence of high in tensity noise has a negative impact on the behaviour and even reproduction of organisms inhabiting coral reefs. Human activity noises, such as the noise of ships or mo torboats, can cause sensory confusion among reef inhabi tants. This affects marine mammals in particular, for which sound is a fundamental element of communication and social interaction.

During the Covid-19 lockdown, most industries, includ ing automotive and public transport, were stopped and commercial and private sailing activities were reduced. This has resulted in a reduction in the noise intensity in aquatic and land environments, and consequently the appearance of marine mammal species in places where they had not been seen for years.

During the pandemic, most beach bars and restau rants were closed in popular tourist resorts. It led to a real boom among the sea turtles returning to their former breeding grounds. On Gili Trawangan, many female green and turtle turtles have found the perfect egg laying envi

ronment. Hatching beaches were free of tourists, which reduced the amount of waste, as well as the number of accidental crushing of the turtle's eggs. Sea turtles had enough time for incubation, which resulted in a higher incubation rate. The lack of human interfer ence and artificial light, which of ten confuses newborn individuals, was an additional bonus.

Even though Covid has been a curse for many of us, it could be assumed that it has been a bless ing for many aquatic environ ments that are doomed to human exploitation. The world's lockdown

allowed them to catch their breath. Tragic periods for humankind, such as World War II, have shown that interruptions in commercial fishing contribute to the growth of many fish species in the ocean. The same effect occurred during the global quarantine period.

Unfortunately, due to the lack of income from tourism, many fami lies have returned to fishing. Lim ited monitoring of national water parks such as Komodo and Raja Ampat has led to increased illegal and unreported fishing activities and has caused disruption to the local ecosystem. Soaring prices and

reduced availability of fish on the market have encouraged local populations to exploit wild fish stocks, pushing them even further towards extinction. In the Komodo National Park during the dives, an increase in specialised equipment for shark fishing and a return to practices such as the use of dynamite were noticed.

Covid-19 left not only a clear trace in our memory, but also a tragic souvenir for the next thousands of years in the natural environment. Due to attempts to stop the spread of the virus, all protective clothing and accessories con tributed significantly to plastic contamination of waters and beaches. On weekly cleaning of the beach and during dives, it was increasingly often possible to notice masks, plastic gloves, one-time antigen tests or plastic protective suits. We also noticed the growth of polystyrene and plastic packaging from takeaway food.

Despite positive changes on coral reefs, the problem of plastic waste seems to be getting bigger. Indonesia is one of the leading countries contributing to the littering of the ocean. The pandemic trend for packaging all food

products in plastic, online shopping, medical accessories have further aggravated this problem, and consequently, caused environmental degradation worldwide.

After more than two years of pause, Indonesia is once again experiencing a crowd of tourists thirsty for experi ences. Diving centers have record numbers of diving cer tificates, and boats going to coral reefs are bursting at the seams. The time of the pandemic has shown the enormous impact of human activities on the marine ecosystem. De spite the best intentions, as divers, we contribute to some extent to the destruction of our beloved coral reefs. So, it is worth considering what we can do to reduce our negative impact on the underwater world.

Diving centres on Gili Trawangan and I cordially invite you to visit the reefs. I wonder if the inhabitants of coral reefs share my enthusiasm.

As divers, we have a special bond with the ocean. For this reason, each of us has a chance to contribute to the protection of what we love when we dive, travel, and do other things.

LIMIT THE AMOUNT OF RUBBISH YOU LEAVE BEHIND. Try not to buy drinks in plastic bottles, put water into reusable bottles. Do not use plastic bags and say no to plastic straws.

KEEP YOUR HANDS TO YOURSELF, respect underwater creatures, and work on excellent buoyancy while diving to avoid injuring corals.

BUY REEF-FRIENDLY SUNSCREENS. Oxybenzone, a common active ingredient in sunscreen, damages coral reefs.

DEFOG YOUR MASK ECOLOGICALLY. Do not use soap or toothpaste commonly used to defog masks before diving. Use defoggers without harmful ingredients. And, of course, there is nothing better than saliva.

DO NOT BUY SOUVENIRS FROM CORAL REEFS. From shells to dec orative corals and shark teeth. Your purchases contribute to the degra dation of coral reefs and the natural marine environment.

SUPPORT THE LOCAL PEOPLE. While travelling, try to eat and buy local products, in this way you contribute not only to supporting the local economy, but also to reducing the emissions of carbon dioxide produced during the importation of goods.

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KRK

Text and photos Wojciech Zgoła

CROATIA IS AMAZING. JUST DRIVE A BIT OF LAND, TAKE A STOP AT THE COVE, CLIMB A HILL, TAKE A REST IN THE MOST ORDINARY BAR. THIS IS ENOUGH TO AMAZE YOU AND MAKE YOU PROMISE YOURSELF TO COME BACK HERE ONCE AGAIN.

Personally, I like to discover new parts of the world. That's why, in the second year of the pandemic, when Croatia announced that it was letting in both the vaccinated and the unvaccinated, we opted for the largest island – Krk. It was our another visit on this land, but this time we chose one of the closest destinations from Poland. And if it weren’t for the 5-hour wait at the border, the trip would have been one of the fastest so far.

We arrived late in the evening, just before the recep tion closed. We didn't eat lunch or dinner because we were standing at the bloody border and wanted to check in in time to avoid sleeping out.

It turns out that on the island of Krk, in the town of the same name, it is not at all easy to eat out after 11 PM. The kitchens close at around 9:30, of course you can go to a pub and have a drink, but there is nothing to eat. Along the way there are stalls selling ice-cream, waffles, and other sweets... Eventually we bumped into a lady who was selling corn, and willy-nilly we ended up having a very romantic dinner for two. We sat on the beach wall, soaked our feet in the Adriatic Sea and enjoyed the lightly salted corn.

In my old habit, with two weeks to go, I wrote several mes sages to various diving centres on Krk. The first 3 replied that they had no available places until the end of August. I started to worry a bit, fortunately then came a reply from Diver Krk Diving Centre. The choice turned out to be a good one.

The base is located in the centre of Krk, close to the har bour, with its own fenced parking area. They offer professional service, and the atmosphere is nice and friendly. The weather was sunny and hot, yet inside you could enjoy the pleasant coolness of air conditioning. After they checked our certificates and insurances, we filled in the relevant forms, and packed the bus which drove our stuff to our boat in the harbour. The divers went on foot which took five minutes.

Finally, we found ourselves on a boat that was gliding among small waves towards the island of Cres. It was at this island that our first two dives took place. We first smelled and soon afterwards tasted the sea water. The sun was stroking us from above and the temperature of 32°C seemed pleasant thanks to the speed we had gained.

We moored in bays over a wide shallow water area, where we peacefully carried out a safety stop. Earlier, descending

to less than 30 m depth, we admired the amazing rock sculp ture with numerous mini caves, walls and overhangs. Visi bility at 20–25 m allowed us to see some sizable common dentex fish which swam at a considerable distance and were quite timid.

Our guide was named Goran. He knew very well where we were, and with his professionalism he brought a calm atmo sphere. The group consisted of five people. Throughout we were accompanied by shoals of small fish. We admired anem ones, tunicates, and snails, of which we counted 3 different species. We could feel the gentle current. While returning, we took a good 10 minutes to penetrate the previously mentioned shallow waters looking for crabs, octopuses and other crea tures. The water temperature at the surface was 25°C, while at 30 m it was only 17°C. It is worth remembering this and being prepared for colder moments :)

The next day the bora wind was blowing. The sky was cloudless, but the pressure was high. The bora strikes from the northeast, and usually, in the summer, blows only for a few hours. This happens when there is a large pressure difference between the Dinaric Alps and the Adriatic coast. The cool mountain air pushes against the hot coast.

And although it got nicer outside, as the heat had tempo rarily eased thanks to the wind, our dives were cancelled for the day, and we were only able to sail out for the next day's dive. This time Goran had a lot of students and could not go with us. It turned out that Vlad (the owner of the base who was also the boat captain) decided that we were doing very well underwater and could dive without a guide. We were on our own, Dominica and I. Vlad conducted a briefing with us,

and we jumped into the water. We quickly reached a depth of 26 m. It got cold, so we surfaced a bit. We came into a cur rent pushing us away from the wall, so we had to strengthen our fin swipes. When we reached the rock shelf, the current

Krk is the largest island in Croatia. It has an area of 405.22 km2. It is located in the Kvarner Gulf in the Adriatic Sea. The island is connected to the mainland by a bridge (Krk Bridge) nearly one and a half kilometres long, which was built in 1980. The passage is free of charge. The length of the Krk coastline is 219.2 km.

disappeared, and we calmly started to swim back close to the rocks until we reached the shallow waters. The bora did not spoil the visibility and we still had a good 20–25 m. We real ly enjoyed the terrain here. Mini canyons, rock arches and cones rising just above the surface of the sea, washed over constantly by new waves.

We spent the next day diving with a third diver, he was a very friendly German called Gerhard, who was now over 70 years old and spoke very good English. He was the most ex

perienced of us, having been diving for 42 years and, as he admitted, wanting to reach 1000 dives. He was pretty close to that and had recorded everything from the very beginning (his first dive) in his logbook.

After the briefing we descend more than 30 m deep. Ger hard leads the way. We pass by observing a very interesting and colourful bottom while the current is gentle. I try to cap ture various underwater moments on camera. There are large tree branches, a fishing net entangled in the rocks and schools

of small fish. A small scorpionfish appears somewhere on a shelf, and we also found some snails. We end the dive on another beautiful near shore area.

Both underwater and on the way out, Gerhard thanks us for the bor rowed hood. It turned out that he had forgotten his own, and we had a spare. I got to admit, it came in very handy. So did the gloves. Bora made the temperature at the sea surface drop down from 25 to 23°C, while at a depth of 28–35 m the tempera ture dropped from 17 to just 14°C. In 7/8 mm foams it is cold. Dry suit in the summer in the Adriatic is a very wise solution ;) Hood and gloves are a "must have".

After returning to the base and paying the dive fee, Gerhard unex pectedly invited us to his place. We were surprised but accepted the in vitation. We had no plans for the late

afternoon. He lived on the big camp in his RV with his wife. Opposite, in another camper, lived his son with his wife and two children. He asked us to follow him, meaning the scooter he drove while traveling in the camp er. We spent the next 2 hours sipping coffee, beer and eating appetizers or ganized on short notice by Gerhard's amiable and surprised (I think) wife. He told his family that we saved his life by lending him a hood.

We spent the last two days before traveling to Poland delighting in the beauty of the place we found our selves in. We admired a pair of cor morants, which alternately jumped into the water to catch fish, and then came out on a boulder drying their feathers. We also snorkelled, even at night after 10 PM, which brought some onlookers, but allowed us to spot an octopus.

Croatia never stops amazing us.

MONTENEGRO

THE BLACK PEARL OF THE ADRIATIC

Text and photos Klaudyna Brzostowska

Mountainous areas covered with lush greenery, the smell of oregano and lavender wafting in the air, authentic and friendly citizens, and good cuisine – these are just a few reasons why surface breaks in Monte negro take on a whole new dimension.

Our first dives took place near the tourist town of Budva. Courtesy of the Budva Diving crew, we were able to ex plore nearby dive spots. The center's owner Dusan and his son jointly run the oldest dive center in Montenegro. They

Underwater canyons, uplifted rocks, grottos, caves, and wrecks – Montenegro proved to be a huge diving surprise. From the first day, I marveled at what was underwater and what was on land. have been organizing daily expeditions for 25 years and their commitment and passion is evident. Together we did sev eral dives around the Sveti Nikola Island. Called by some the Hawaii of the region, it is an undersized natural island that is about 2 km long and has several caverns and caves. In addition to interesting rock formations, the first dives surprised me with the number of fish, and quite lush flora and fauna. Often you can meet here various species of cephalopods, Mediterranean moray eels (Muraena hel

ena), nudibranch snails such as Flabellina affinis and spotted Doris, and clusters of marine predators, namely mostly star fish. One of the pearls of Montenegro is the Oreste shipwreck. Manufactured in 1896 in England, the ship sank in 1942 in Trsteno Bay most likely after contact with a mine. Today it lies at 30 meters deep and is undoubtedly one of the most interesting diving attractions. Our guide Dusan co-created the MeDryDive app (https://medrydive.eu/) which aims to promote Mediterranean heritage and

travels

Season: May – October

Water temperature: 15°C–24°C

Visibility: 10–25 m

Currency: Euro

Transportation from Poland: plane/ car/ motorcycle

Recommended dive centers: BudvaDiving in Budva and DivingMontenegro in Herceg Novi

education. With this app, anyone can be come a virtual participant in the pene tration of the wreck (through VR and AR).

Another place full of diving attrac tions is the Bay of Kotor. Near the town of Herceg Novi, more than 30 div ing spots are hidden within a radius of a dozen kilometers. Numerous wrecks, caves and caverns, walls of reefs and a submarine base – all this is hidden underwater. I had the pleasure of be ing guided to these spots by Diving Montenegro, an intimate dive center that charms with a crew of profession

al and cheerful Montenegrins. We did our first dive at the submarine base. Built by the Germans during World War II, the hatch was used after the war by the Yugoslavian Navy. The hatch is 100 meters long, 12 meters wide and 10 meters deep. An unusual place that definitely stirs up emotions. Another thrilling dive was the one on the wreck next to Mamula Island. Patrol ship PBR 512 was built in 1952 and was a prop erty of the Yugoslav army. Sunk in 1983 during military training, it was a training target for Yugoslav missiles with which

the country's navy soldiers trained. The 40-meter wreck is in very good condi tion, lying at 24 meters, definitely worth recommending.

It must be admitted that Montenegro looks extremely well on the European map of diving enclaves. Going to Mon tenegro, I did not expect much. Today I know that it is a destination worth rec ommending. The main advantages are interesting and diverse dive sites, empty spots with no other dive boats, excellent visibility, attractive prices, and a very good atmosphere on land.

ENDURANCE

THE POLAR MYSTERY

Text Mateusz Popek, Szymon Mosakowski

Photos Wikimedia Commons

A year and a half, or five hundred and sixtyfour days and nights. So many days it took the crew of the Ship Endurance trapped in Antarctica to fight for their lives.

Five hundred and sixty days and nights in the place where the lowest temperature on earth was recorded at 89 de grees below zero. Where the night can last half a year. Where a human is perceived as a lunch by each and every polar bear. So long Ernest Shackleton's crew fought for their lives. And all of them... survived!

When Shackleton was looking for a crew for the expedition, he placed the following advertisement in the newspaper: "I'm look ing for people for a dangerous trip. low rates, inhuman cold, long months in total darkness, constant danger, safe return home doubtful. honours and recognition in case of success of the mission." Even then, he must have known how difficult their challenges were. All in all, he had already completed two expe ditions to the polar regions. He was an excellent polar explorer and a leader who knew what he wanted and how to manage people. However, he did not expect that this time life would prepare the most important exam for him.

Twenty-eight people responded to the announcement and boarded the ship Endurance on August 8, 1914. Their route led from Great Britain to the south, towards the coldest conti nent of the Earth. The first weeks of sailing went smoothly and according to plan, and the plan was ambi tious. Ernest Shackleton's goal was to reach Antarctica. Then the whole crew was to get on a dog sleds and then cross the entire continent. There, on the Ross Sea, they were to be picked up by the sailing ship Aurora.

However, on January 18, 1915, in the Weddell Sea, the ship was blocked by an ice floe, just 160 kilometres away from the planned landing site. This is where the fight for life began. The crew, who was not able to get the ship out of the ice, simply drifted with it along the continent. In that situation Shackle ton's men spent almost 9 months. It is difficult to imagine their situation. However, the leader knew how to manage his crew. He wisely distributed food rations and provided entertainment

Ernest Shackleton Endurance under full sail, Frank Hurley State Library

to the crew. They played sports, engaged in ongoing repairs, and even staged theatrical plays. All this so that the morale of the sailors did not collapse and to dispel thoughts about how bad their situation really was.

On October 27, the crew left the ship and set up a camp nearby. However, after less than a month, huge forces pushed the ship under the ice, where it was swallowed up by the sea. Now that they had no more facilities, there was nothing left for them but to set off.

In the spring of the following year, the ice melted enough for the crew to launch the lifeboats taken from Endurance. After a few days of sailing, everyone reached Elephant Island. They were still in the polar zone, but the mainland offered opportunities for survival. Here Schackleton made the decision to leave the crew and together with the five best sailors set out for help to the nearest inhabited island, which was located only 1300 km from Elephant Island. Captain Endurance's was successful, and on August 30 the remaining crew was rescued. No one died.

The story of this expedition is an extraordinary story about fortitude, will to fight and leadership skills at the highest level. Few leaders had the opportunity to manage their people in such an extreme situation and do it so perfectly. However, the story does not end there. One pioneer is an inspiration for subsequent generations. Only the goals are changing, and the goal for modern explorers is to find the wreck of Endurance.

Such enthusiasts dreaming of discovering the wreck of Endurance are the Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust team. It is a charity organisation dedicated to preserving the rich and diverse maritime history of the Falkland Islands and the people associated with the area. Among the members of the expedi tion were gathered some of the most prominent specialists in the world in many fields, including marine archaeologists, engineers, technicians and scientists dealing with the frosty waters of Antarctica.

The Endurance22 expedition began on February 5, 2022, the 100th anniversary of Sir Ernest Shackleton's death, and lasted 35 days until the wreckage was found. The mission was carried out using the 134-meter polar class research vessel 5 S.A. Agulhas II, which is owned by the Government of South Africa. It is one of the largest and most modern research ves sels in the world, able to break through ice one meter thick at a speed of about five knots. It is equipped with a number of specialised scientific laboratories and facilities that constitute a powerful and effective unit for multidisciplinary research.

Based on information provided in 2019 by the Weddell Sea Expedition, the Endurance wreck has been declared a histori cal monument under the Antarctic Treaty. For this reason, the actions of the explorers could not interfere in any way with the wreckage.

Route of the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition from 1914–1917

ice

Initially, an extensive archival research was carried out in archives in Great Britain, Norway and the Falkland Islands. For this task, the help of other experts was also used to deter mine a possible location where Endurance could rest. Using state-of-the-art technology, the expedition set off towards the Weddell Sea.

The crew expected difficult working conditions and devel oped a plan that assumed that if the research vessel was un able to approach the wreckage, one or two ice camps would be created in which holes in the ice would be drilled. Thanks to them, it would be possible to leave underwater vehicles, whose task would be to find the wreckage. These underwater vehicles are two SAAB Sabertooth (AUV) models equipped with state-of-the-art technologies for visual and sonar research. The wreck search area covered as much as 120 square miles of depths around the last recorded position by the captain of Endurance. Sonars and echo-sonars mapped every little bit of this vast area, and underwater robots submerged to previously unattainable depths.

Every day, a team of scientists, engineers and specialists watched for hours the image transmitted by robots and the results of mapping the bottom. March 5, 2022 was supposed to be another ordinary day for scientists on the research ves sel. When the long-wanted wreck appeared on the crew's computer screen, no one could believe it. 7.7 kilometres away from the original location recorded by the captain at a depth of 3008 meters, Endurance rested almost intact. The conditions prevailing at such a depth had a huge impact on such a good preservation of the wreck, which easily allowed it to be identi fied. Thanks to the technology and zeal of the research team, after 107 years, Endurance has rekindled emotions among those around it.

archaeology

Endurance final sinking

A seven-dog sledge team on the ice with unidentified Endurance crew member

Ocean camp established on the ice, Weddell Sea

The Weddell Sea party

Find injury

DISAPPEARING DOLPHINS

MANY DIVERS VISIT MALTA ENJOYING THE CHARMS OF THIS NEARBY AND INTERESTING DESTINATION.

MALTA, HOWEVER, HAS A PLACE WITH A BAD REPUTATION, WHERE MANY OF THE DRAMAS OF OUR MARINE FRIENDS – THE DOLPHINS – TOOK PLACE. WE ARE TALKING ABOUT MEDITERRANEO MARINE PARK – ONE OF THE WORST DOLPHINARIUMS IN EUROPE.

Between August and September 2021, three dolphins mysterious ly disappeared from this place.

During this period, the dolphinarium informed visitors that the animals had been moved to Spain. Such events, in cluding the unannounced transfer of marine mammals between dolphinari ums, are always of concern to dolphin conservation and welfare organisations.

One such organisation, the British Ma rine Connection, has submitted an inqui ry to the authorities in both Spain and Malta. It was discovered that these ani mals were not moved to another place at all. It turned out all the three dolphins died in Mediterraneo Marine Park. This fact was revealed thanks to the help of

the local organisation Animal Liberation Malta (ALM). The news of the death of the three females in the Mediterraneo Marine Park in Malta has not been made public or registered in the Ceta-Base Cetacean Noncommercial Register, which is a widespread practice in oth er dolphinariums and aquariums. Two of the dead female dolphins, Onda and Mar, were around 20 and 25 years old, respectively, were captured in the wild in Cuba and kept in Mediterraneo since 2000. The third dolphin, Melita, was only seven years old and was born here in captivity in 2014.

Now we know what really hap pened. The dolphinarium itself finally revealed the details. It turned out that

Text and photos Jakub Banasiak

Brighton – commemoration of the victims of captivity

the cause of death was lead poisoning and the lead, horror of horrors, came from the diving ballast. Pietro Pec chioni, the manager supervising the work at the center, admitted that the incident took place in the summer of 2021. A hired diver who was cleaning the pool left a diving ballast unattended near the pool, and the ballast fell into the water. Two adult lactating females and their calves and a young female began to show signs of disease. X-rays showed the presence of lead granules in two individuals. One calf had no lead in its stomach, but an extremely elevated level of lead in the blood was

revealed, which probably penetrated the breast milk.

Peccioni firmly states that the use of this type of ballast is prohibited in the park. He confirmed that dolphins died from the consumption of lead gran ules but denied that the lead bag came from the park, emphasising that such lead ballasts have been banned here for years.

Margaux Dodds, director of dolphin captivity at the Marine Connection, however, notes: "If it was a truly tragic accident, why did the park, when it initial ly reported the disappearance of these dolphins, deliberately give a vague and

untrue description of the animals' where abouts? Moreover, they now say that this auxiliary diver, not employed directly by the park, may have been working unat tended in a swimming pool with dolphins and equipment which, as Mr Pecchioni himself has admitted, is prohibited for use in the park."

Strange cases of dolphin deaths in captivity, concealing their deaths, mis leading the public is unfortunately a fre quent phenomenon in this controversial and unethical business. Like the disap pearing dolphins…

Dolphin conservation specialists and organisations are seriously concerned about the lack of transparency in inter national trade in cetaceans, where it is virtually impossible to effectively track the transfer of dolphins from one facil ity to another. There are also few pro visions to prevent uncontrolled trade in wild cetaceans, and the required doc uments do not constitute a particular obstacle for traffickers and groups in volved in the illegal catching and trans fer of animals. Additionally, facilities rarely declare any deaths and are not held responsible for the loss of life by dolphins in their care. They seem to ac cept the death of animals as an integral part of the industry, simply replacing

Dolphinarium on Malta

Dolphinarium on Malta

Dolphinarium on Malta

When an adult is killed, it is enough to hide this fact until another dolphin can be brought in. The numbers will match, and virtually no one from outside will know it is another dolphin.

the dead animal with another, without any penalties or legal repercussions.

In dolphinariums, the mortality rate of newborn calves is particularly high, but the public often does not learn about this fact at all. When an adult is killed, it is enough to hide this fact until another dolphin can be brought in. The numbers will match, and virtually no one from outside will know it is another dol phin. In the event of trouble or the fail

ure of such an operation, it can always be said that the missing dolphin was sent to another place or give the natu ral cause of death when it is no longer possible to hide the death of the animal. Documents outside the EU are not such a big problem either. More than once, falsifications have been revealed in ex port and transport documents. Several years ago, the scale of this practice was revealed concerning dolphins illegally harvested from the Black Sea and sold to local dolphinariums and to the Middle East. Dolphin welfare organisations have reported a similar problem in, for exam ple, Mexican dolphinariums.

Activists of Empty the Tanks revealed that at least a few dolphins have died in Dolphinaris network facilities in Mex ico in recent years. One of the victims was a young dolphin who died a few weeks after being born due to eating a palm tree leaf. The autopsy report showed that the cause of death was bowel obstruction.

Other dolphins in Dolphinaris fa cilities have died from lung infections

Dolphins from Festa Dolphinarium in Varna

Dolphins from Festa Dolphinarium in Varna

caused by chlorine-containing chemicals that keep the water clean and protect against algae growth.

It is not known what happened to the small dolphin from Dolphinaris Riviera Maya, who suddenly disappeared from the place, even though a few days ear lier dolphin activists documented its presence in the dolphinarium. Accord ing to Empty the Tanks, the general manager of the dolphinarium refused to answer the questions. Due to the lack of reporting standards in Mexico, but also in many other countries, com panies such as Dolphinaris do not have to be transparent in the case of births, deaths, diseases and injuries of dolphins in captivity.

The problem of disappearing dol phins and unexplained deaths in marine parks is widespread. Also close to us –in Bulgaria, so eagerly visited by Poles, similar dramas were recorded. Follow ing the death of a small dolphin at the Festa Dolphinarium in Varna in August 2019, the organisations The Last Cage and ProWal launched a joint investiga tion into the operation of the facility. They found data on more than 27 dol phins that had died or "disappeared" in the Festa Dolphinarium since it opened – these cases were documented in the press. As The Last Cage states on its website: "Since its opening in 1984, 13 dol phins have been documented in the Festa Dolphinarium (5 live to this day). How

ever, 3 out of 4 unregistered dead calves reported by the Dnevnik portal last year were not mentioned. Such omissions make us wonder – how many more calves were born and died in this tank without anyone knowing about that?"

The activities of organisations and independent specialists fighting against the captivity of dolphins are extreme ly important. They help to reveal what is veiled by the intrusive marketing of dolphinariums, expose matters that the owners of dolphinariums want to hide from the public, educate tourists and the public, and provide materials nec essary to initiate administrative or crim inal proceedings.

If we can, let us support their activ ity, their informal audits in dolphinari ums, information campaigns and edu cational actions.

FROM THE EDITORIAL OFFICE – LET US NOT BUY TICKETS TO DOLPH INARIUMS, LET'S NOT SEND OUR CHILDREN TO THEM. A MUCH BET TER SOLUTION IS TO PARTICIPATE IN WATCHING DOLPHINS IN THEIR NATURAL ENVIRONMENT FROM A BOAT TOGETHER WITH A PROFES SIONALLY TRAINED CREW.

Festa dolphinarium in Varna

DFE – commemoration of the victims of captivity at Whale Fest 2015

Text Anna Sołoducha, anna@activtour.pl

Photos Łukasz Metrycki

54 planet earth Sharks part II

THERE ARE OVER 500 SPECIES OF SHARKS IN THE WORLD, FROM THE SMALLEST THAT ARE SEVERAL CENTIMETRES LONG TO THE ONES THAT ARE OVER 18 METERS. WITHIN THIS VAST NUMBER OF SPECIES, ONLY 12 CAN ATTACK. AND IN THIS DOZEN, ONLY 5 TO 6 SPECIES CAN ACTUALLY THREATEN US.

recorded annually. More people die annually bitten by mosqui toes (725,000), snakes (50,000) or dogs (25,000).

Sharks are afraid of humans, although they surpass us in speed and size – they do not know it. Maybe the prob lem is the fear of sharks? And if we afraid of something, we do not protect it. The shark population has decreased drastically. Nobody cares that 100-150 million individuals are killed annually, although some statistics say that there are up to 200 million of them. It is well known, but we don't stop it because we think we're getting rid of the threat. In fact, sharks attack people very rarely. On average, 10 fatal shark attacks are

People are afraid of sharks. Why? They don't know. We are not ready to fight them. If the fear and misconception that sharks are a threat to us do not pass, we will lose this species, and the waters of which they are regulators. In an ecosystem devoid of large predators, the hierarchy will change. Species that are victims will begin to multiply in an unbalanced way. An alarming example is the giant toad, which has taken over Aus tralia and threatens the entire ecosystem. The reduction of the shark population in some regions has led to a similar phenom enon. On the east coast of the US, the number of sharks has decreased because of overfishing, there is no way to control this area. However, an increase in stingrays has been noted, which threatens the natural balance. Seals have invaded the waters of South Australia. The seal population is growing, so many individuals die of hunger, because there is a shortage of food. The great white shark completely disappeared from this region. These examples show that the final effect of these changes is the extinction of species.

On Earth, there are few predators weighing more than 50 kg. Since nature has created so many sharks for balance, it

is arrogant on our part to get rid of them. If we do not change the course of action, at some point it will be too late, and such a loss cannot be repaired. An important problem is shark fish ing. It is common that this is the domain of the countries of East Asia. The truth is that Spain, the United Kingdom, France and Portugal are among the top shark fishermen. Spaniards catch 60,000 tonnes a year, or 46% of the quota allocated by the European Commission. 165 Spanish fishing vessels have a license to harvest sharks. Sharks are caught for their valu able meat and fins, but also for their skin, cartilage and liver. The value of the world trade in shark products reaches almost a billion dollars a year.

At this point, it is impossible not to mention the procedure that has a significant impact on reducing the population of this species. Finning, or cutting off the fins of live sharks. Currently, the estimated number of finning cases is 70 million sharks per year. "Shark finning is the practice of cutting off the fins of live

Attempts have been made to prohibit finning, but loopholes in the law are destroying these efforts. The main markets are China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand. The cut-off fin is used to prepare... soup. The most expensive soup in the world.

sharks for commercial purposes." The long rope method is the most used and most efficient. It is 80 to 100 meters long and has hooks mounted on it at different intervals. At its end, there is a lure that "attracts" predators to it. After "catching"

sharks, the rope is pulled onto the boat. A shark whose fins have been cut off is thrown alive overboard, where it slowly dies in agony, unable to swim, from blood loss or being eat en by other animals. Attempts have been made to prohibit finning, but loopholes in the law are destroying these efforts. The main markets are China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand. The cut-off fin is used to prepare... soup. The most expensive soup in the world. Shark fin soup is a traditional Asian dish. You can buy it in many seaside re sorts or restaurants. In fact, only spices are responsible for its taste, because the fin itself has no taste. Its "gourmets" claim that it also strengthens bones and potency. In addition, shark body parts are also used in Asian folk medicine. However, their healing properties are not true, as evidenced by research –fins often contain dangerous concentrations of the neurotoxin BMMA (also known as B-Methylamino L-Alanine), produced by cyanobacteria and responsible for Alzheimer's and Parkinson's diseases. In addition to overfishing, the extinction of sharks is influenced by their late maturation, because some of them only reproduce when they reach the age of 20. What's more, sharks reproduce very slowly. They only have a few young in one throw.

We know about 500 species of sharks, of which 60 to 100 are depleted. Nearly 20 of them are endangered species, e.g., white sharks, whale sharks or basking sharks. These sharks will not survive even if they are protected, which is why (though brutal) we should protect species whose population is stable, and which have some impact on the state of our waters. Rare species, they have no chance to survive.

100 million years ago, sharks were 60% of the species in the ocean. Currently less than 3%. Therefore, we can see a correla

Source Wikipedia

Source Wikipedia

tion between aggressive overfishing and the decreasing number of sharks in our waters. When they are extinct, it will have disastrous, even unimag inable consequences for the marine environment. Sharks are called 'peak predators', which means they have no natural enemies. Sharks regulate populations of other animals, hunt ing sick, weak, old or near-death individuals. Pressure from sharks is a natural selection mechanism that ensures the survival of only the best adapted, strongest representatives of other species. Without sharks, populations of species down the food chain (sharks are the upper link of the food chain) could over populate, which would significantly increase the pressure on other ani mals and the plants they feed. In this way, the balance of the marine world would be disturbed. We need to un derstand that the stability of balance in nature affects not only the lives of animals, but also people. Let us be open to knowledge and finally look at sharks – with a friendly eye.

WHAT IS IT LIKE TO BE A SALMON?

The title of this text is a paraphrase of Thomas Nagel's article "What is it like to be a bat?", which was published in 1974 and in which the author argued that although we have knowledge about echolocation or the nervous system, we cannot answer the question: what is it really like to be a bat? How does it feel?

We can only imagine how we would feel having the wings and the body of a bat, but we will never answer the question of how they really feel. The article was a philosophical treatise on the impossibility of em bodying other beings and understanding the world as they understand it.

As land creatures, we have little interest in marine depths – we are unable to cross them or get to know them, we do not understand the animals functioning there and we do not know how to empathise with their emotions. Marine animals lead

Text Dr hab. Prof. UAM Hanna Mamzer

Photo Paweł Vogelsinger

a lifestyle so different from human life that it often seems to us that they do not communicate and do not feel. Other philosophers also wrote about the fact that it is impossible to "get into the skin" of another animal, presenting the subject in different perspectives. This issue also appeared in Martin Lee Mueller's book entitled "Being Salmon, Being Human: Encountering the Wild in Us and Us in the Wild" (published in 2017), in which he presented human relations with the world of wild animals based on relationships between humans and... salmons. On the example of the Norwegian society and some communities living on the north-western Pacific coast, the author traces the interrelationships between us humans and their fish. It would seem that a salmon is just a fish that we eat. It turns out, however, that

salmon plays an important role in the lives of many communities, for which fishing activities are important. Fishing as an activity important for the surviv al of the community is surrounded by a whole range of rituals and activities that must be carried out in order for the expeditions on salmon to be effec tive. You have to learn how to fish and this is the subject of intergenerational transmission of knowledge. Sharing and consuming preys were activities inte grating the community. Fish fishing for these communities was an important element in religious rituals. The same was true of the North American Indian communities, for whom hunting and collecting the "gifts" of the forest was not only an activity of food provision. The destruction of the environment, the displacement of Indians destroyed the ability to perform these activities and became one of the causes of the erosion of cultural traditions.

In the era of industrial production that drives consumption, we produce salmon as part of advanced zootechni cal engineering. Located off the coasts of Norway, the United Kingdom, Cana da and the United States, for example, aquaculture produces salmon in an au tomated and deliberate manner. Fish crammed into giant baskets, are fed with feed in granules resembling dog and cat food. Under the baskets on the seabed there are deposits of excrement excreted by fish, which promotes the development of phytoplankton to an extent unfavorable to the ecosystem. Salmon live in extreme density, which causes stress, aggression, mutual infec tion with parasites and diseases in fish. It is therefore necessary to prevent this by administering antibiotics to avoid losses in production. Salmon meat can take on a whole range of colours (rated according to the fifteen-point SalmoFan scale), and consumers in different cul tural circles prefer different shades of meat. Therefore, some manufacturers

have gone so far as to add chemical dyes to the feed, chang ing the colour of the carcasses. Before slaughter, the fish are subjected to a three-day hunger, then caught with nets to special baskets resembling huge pens and pumped alive to boats, with which they are delivered to the slaughterhouse. The efficiency of production is calculated in tons, not in pieces of individuals.

Wild salmons are large fish growing up to 150 cm in length. They can weigh more than 25 kg and are predatory fish, feed ing on plankton crustaceans, insect larvae as well as small fish. Salmon is one of the anadromous fish, so it travels from the seas to the rivers for spawning. During these wanderings, physiological and biochemical changes occur in their bodies, allowing them to adapt to life in another ecosystem. During the spawning trip, which is often hundreds of kilometres long, fish eat little, focusing on reaching cold aerated waters, where eggs are laid in the ground pits. After fertilisation and several months of incubation, in the spring, larvae hatch, absorbing the yolk sac for about 40 days. Afterwards for another 2–3 years they live in fresh water to reach maturity, they to go on a jour ney to salt water after, live there for another 2–3 years, and return to the same river for spawning. In industrial production, fish are killed and eggs and sperm are extracted from the dead,

artificially fertilised by stirring them in containers, and then the incubation process begins. After hatching from eggs, fish are kept for some time in containers in halls, and then they are pumped into sea cages ("maricultures") invented in the 1960s in Norway. You feed them for the next 12 to 24 months. Feed consists of waste from catching other fish and cereals. It is estimated that 1.2 kg of food allows to produce 1 kg of salmon. Fish should be stunned (electrically or pneumatically) before being killed (by batons), but unfortunately, also due to the rapid pace of work, they are very often killed and scaled in full consciousness (this is a problem regarding the industrial slaughter of all animals). Fish feel pain just like mammals, but their touch receptors in the skin are much more sensitive – so a touch that is unpleasant to mammals can already be a pain stimulus for fish.

Human impact one the environemnt is a serious prob lem for salmon ecology. Water dams, regulating rivers, dams on them make it impossible for fish to wander and die. Sal mons are able to jump over small obstacles, but they need help to overcome larger ones. Therefore, special lifts are con structed at dams and hydroelectric power plants. They take the form of cages, into which fish enter through a special corridor, they are collected (compressed), and then the cage rises and

Crowd of salmon fishes jumping Source www.rawpixel.com

Fish feel pain just like mammals, but their touch receptors in the skin are much more sensitive – so a touch that is unpleasant to mammals can already be a pain stimulus for fish.

somehow carries the fish remaining in the water to the other side of the dam. That's where the gates open and the fish can come out. Such cycles last several minutes and are repeated several times during the migration of fish during the day. Fish are monitored and counted, and their flow can also be viewed by outsiders as a kind of tourist attraction.

The pollution of river and marine waters is another fac tor threatening the life and health of fish. Reproduction is not possible if the spawning grounds are silted, which happens when regulating rivers. In the sea, fish experience noise (and vibration) pollution. This phenomenon is very rarely discussed and hardly anyone is aware of the intensity of sound generated by sea ships, drilling platforms, ferries. All these factors caused the extinction of salmon in rivers in many places, including Po land. The restitution of this predator in Polish rivers has been

moderately successful and it is a species that is still threatened with extinction in our country.

Mueller in his book tries to describe the world as salmons would see it. But it also shows the differences in the attitude of traditional and postmodern communities towards the animals on which their fate depended.

Salmon attempting to jump waterfall Source www.rawpixel.com

Source www.pixabay.com, Cock Robin

LOUD

WADING BIRDS

Text and photos Wojciech Jarosz

Common sandpipers are one of those birds that are difficult to spot before they notice us.

They are not particularly small (although they are not big either – more or less the size of a starling), and their camouflage is also not really sophisticated and, in addi tion, they are quite loud. However, we usually notice them only when they run away from us when we get too close to them while wandering along the banks of the river, less often lakes. Once they are in the air, we have a chance to look at them only briefly, because they fly very efficiently and quickly change the feeding place to one in which they are not disturbed by intruders (well, unless we have violated their territory and are approaching the nest, then common sandpipers will urge us to go away (which, of course, for the sake of the birds we should do) with the squeaky sounds they produce.

Common sandpipers, or formally Actitis hypoleucos, also sometimes called in Polish "squeaky sandpipers" (rather for merly) or "noisy wading birds", owe their species name to their acoustic expression which they give vent to primarily during the courtship displays (breeding behaviour of birds used to form couples for reproduction purposes – editor's note), but also when they are frightened – they do not run away quietly, but behave as if they expressed their irritation at the need to stop for aging. Usually, they do not fly far away, which gives us some chances to observe these birds not only under the influence of an adrenaline shot caused by the sudden rising of something squeaky almost from under our feet, but also a moment lat er, when the observer's heart rate begins to calm down and we are able to hold in less trembling hands binoculars... or a camera. A camera, however, is not the best equipment to use to observe common sandpipers according to Polish law. Com mon sandpipers are covered by species protection in Poland and have been additionally entered into the catalogue of spe cies whose photographing without special permits is not legal. Of course, if during migration, outside the breeding season, the sandpipers arrive themselves and begin to nod their tail

Anthropopressure is doing its job and especially regulation of rivers, elimination of river islands, development of buildings on river banks, do not help birds such common sandpipers. They are adapted to getting food on the border of water and land, so when they do not find places where they can eat, they fly away to find them.

in a characteristic way in front of the lens of a photographer falling asleep during a sitting with absolutely no camouflage on the shore of a heavily exploited tourist lake, the photog rapher can of course take the opportunity and take more or less successful shots (unless the adrenaline shot will not allow them to set the camera as it should be) without breaking the law. This is how my photos, accompanying this text, were cre ated. I kindly ask the environmental inspectors reading this text (although I do not expect it) to give me the least severe punishment. A bit more seriously, it really makes sense to pro tect these and similar birds, if only because of their decreasing numbers. In our country (Poland) there are no more than two thousand breeding pairs of common sandpipers. This is not much, although there is no fully reliable data as it used to be, for example, 150 years ago. It is known, however, that the num ber of banks of unregulated rivers, available to calm-loving birds especially during breeding, not only does not increase, but quite the opposite. Anthropopressure is doing its job and especially regulation of rivers, elimination of river islands, development of buildings on river banks, do not help birds such common sandpipers. They are adapted to getting food on the border of water and land, so when they do not find places where they can eat, they fly away to find them. Com

mon sandpipers appreciate the sandy, stony and gravel banks of medium and large rivers the most, but they also happen to stay and feed on silty banks. During migration, when they group into flocks and can be spotted a little easier, they are also happy to stay over dam reservoirs, ponds and other water reservoirs. It is because common sandpipers, like basically all plovers, come to us only for the time of breeding (of course, there are also those that we see only during migration, as they treat our country only like a roadside gas station, where they replenish fuel and fly, for example, to the far North). Our sand pipers fly most often to Africa for the cool part of the year and we can meet the birds ringed in our country in sub-Saharan part of Africa, as well as in its western and northern parts. Some birds remain in warmer parts of Western Europe and the Mediterranean. The most numerous populations of these waders are found in Scandinavia and the Baltic States. In Po land, breeding pairs are most often found in the Middle Basin of the Vistula, due to the unregulated nature of many of its side streams, especially on the Narew and Pilica. Other regions where it is easier to meet sandpipers are Subcarpathia, the Carpathians and Central Pomerania, while it is more difficult to encounter them in the Warta basin in Greater Poland or the Oder River in Silesia.

Wherever they are, their diet basically looks similar. With their long beaks (al though shorter than in other waders) they search for insects and their larvae, crus taceans, molluscs, earthworms, as well as tadpoles and smaller frogs. They are not much different in their diet from their cousins, although they rather pick up what they can see on the surface of the land or what water will throw out, and less often they push their beak into the ground to its full length (which some other plovers can do very well). They can also catch their prey on the fly.

So how to recognise that a bird with a long beak and legs is a common sandpip er? Of course, you can consider in detail the proportions of the length of the beak and legs, but this is a path rather for those already familiar with the bird menag erie. Common sandpipers are the easiest to recognise by their voice (I constantly encourage you to listen to the voices of birds on an increasing number of websites and portals – here even the popular Youtube service is more and more often useful). You can also use the application for recognising bird voices (BirdNET), which I have

already advertised in previous articles in Perfect Diver – it works great in the field! In the behaviour of common sandpipers, the most characteristic is the aforemen tioned shaking of the trunk – a kind of peculiar nodding. In flight, however, they quickly hit the air with their narrow wings, and after a while glide through the air for some time with the wings spread and slightly lowered. Quite often it's easy to confuse a common sandpiper with a green sandpiper or a wood sand piper (I will also write about them one day for our Dear Readers), but there are a few details that may indicate we are looking at a common sandpiper – e.g. the lack of a white spot at the base of the tail and a lot of white in the under side of the wings (which are black for the green sandpipers and grey for the wood sandpipers).

I am writing this article during a cruise on the Great Masurian Lakes, during which I had the pleasure to meet a common sandpiper and enjoy its ag ile movements. Watch the waterfront shores vigilantly – maybe some common sandpiper will nod at you one day?

STAGE CYLINDER (STAGE)

HOW TO BECOME A BETTER DIVER?

stage is an additional tank mount ed at the side of a diver and taken under water in addition to a sin gle tank or twinset for 3 reasons*:

´ as an additional bottom gas cylinder

´ as a decompression gas cylinder

´ as a gas cylinder for filling/suppling additional devices

How to choose its size? Why recreational divers do not use stages?

Current stage cylinder users are invited to refresh their knowledge and those of

Photo Jon Borg

Text Wojciech A. Filip

you who have seen such a tank only in photographs are invited to explore new knowledge.

* This article is about using stage cylin ders in the OC backmount configuration, i.e. a situation where the diver is using a single tank or twinset as their basic source of gas.

ALUMINUM OR STEEL?

Opinions differ in this matter – some times people using a stage made from a particular material with a random ca pacity only because such a tank was at hand and this is how it goes.

My suggestion: aluminum.

If filled even with a very heavy gas (high oxygen content), the tank will have a neutral buoyancy at some 100 bars of pressure (11.1 L capacity). In other words, the tank will not pull the diver to either side and when detached, it will float next to its owner.

This will not happen in the case of the smallest 5.7 L aluminum tanks. A good idea is to check how the stage behaves with different amounts of gas.

WHICH CAPACITY?

Theory has it that there is no such thing as too much gas, but having too little can be dangerous.

Is an 11.1 L aluminum tank the best? This is a universal gas container. In the case of recreational diving, taking such a tank under water may extend your div ing time significantly. If we are planning to only take oxygen in a stage cylinder as a decompression gas and the decom pression time with this gas is slightly

HINT

Take your stage cylinder filled up to 200 bar for a simple dive. Breathe gas from it and check the tank’s buoyancy at 50 bar intervals. If you are using 11.1 L tanks (a big aluminum tank, very often called an aluminum 12L), be careful when the pressure is low. A freely released tank will slowly resurface.

over ten minutes or so, consider taking a smaller tank. Oxygen is the heaviest of breathing gases that we can take under water. A large stage cylinder filled with this gas will have negative buoyancy for the entire dive (it will hang low, giving a distinctive overweight feeling). To avoid having to deal with such overweight, you can attach such a tank to your hip d-ring on a special leash, hanging between the diver’s legs. If I do not need a very large amount of oxygen, a smaller tank will be more convenient.

Photo Mariusz Czajka

Explanation for recreational divers:

when we dive, our dive time usually depends on the amount of gas in our tank. We very rarely resurface because the planned time ended and much more often the pressure gauge arrow is near ing the 50 bar red field.

Things vary slightly when it comes to technical diving. We start planning by determining the amount of decom pression gases that we can safely take

ADVICE FOR REC DIVERS

for the dive, and this in turn will help us determine how long can we stay and how deep can we go.

Many stage cylinders look good on pho tos, but they mostly get in your way while diving.

Why recreational divers do not use stage cylinders?

First, it’s a technical matter. Every diver us ing a single tank on their back can add 1, 2

or more stage cylinders without any prob lems. Before doing so, they should check the capacity of their equipment. Modular buoyancy compensator devices, e.g. Te cline Peanut 21, ensure a vast freedom of movement when diving with 1 tank on the back and several stage cylinders.

Ask your instructor how to calculate gas consumption at different depths.

You will see that dive planning is a cool and extremely useful skill. It is like going on vacation somewhere where the number of gas stations is very low. In such a situation you should learn how much fuel does the car take and how far can you go without refueling.

I am an AOWD diver. Does it mean that I can dive with additional tanks? I do not recommend this solution with out good prior training under the su pervision of an experienced trainer, however there is no such training in the recreational diving market.

Before diving with a stage cylinder, learn how to plan diving longer than the socalled “no decompression” dives and advanced skills related to properly con figuring the equipment and achieve very good buoyancy control.

Photo Mariusz Czajka

1. The stage cylinder harness is used to stabilize the valve and consequent ly the regulator and pressure gauge in the water. It should be very tight. This way we can not only constantly ob serve the pressure gauge without the need to turn the tank around, but also freely conduct a modified v-drill. The harness is not intended for carrying the tank (carry the tank by the valve). If carried by the harness on the sur face, the tank will turn around its axis in the water once attached to the div er. The valve becomes lowest point, which can easily get caught on guide

lines, the 2nd stage regulator hose will be very tight, pulling the regulator out of your mouth and controlling the pressure gauge will require turning the tank every time.

2. Stage cylinder marking, i.e. the socalled MOD sticker, should be placed right below the cylinder bell, on both sides of the tank. Proper attachment is a guarantee of easy gas identi fication also in difficult conditions (e.g. stress, low visibility). Put the tank on the ground with the valve pointing up. The first MOD sticker is placed so as to allow to read it while standing on the side of the knob, as a numerical value running horizontal ly, e.g. 21. We attach the same sticker on the other side of the tank.

3. Information on the tank owner should be placed on the bottom part, at a 90 degrees angle to the MOD. If done properly, we can see no other mark while reading the MOD.

4. When diving with 1 stage cylinder, you may shorten the bottom part of the harness so that the tank will not extend beyond the twinset contour when empty. You can do it by put ting the bottom snap under the har ness counter-clockwise, if the tank is mounted on the left side of the diver (clockwise, if the tank is mounted on the right side). This in turn will im prove the tank valve location.

5. If you use 2 or more stage cylinders, usually 2 are left at the front of the diver. We attach the tank emptied

…meanwhile in technical diving  HERE IS SOME USEFUL INFORMA TION FOR DIVING WITH STAGE CYL INDERS

PROPER TANK CARRYING AND THE RESULTS IN WATER

IMPROPER TANK CARRYING AND THE RESULTS IN WATER

Photo Jon Borg

ROTATION OF STAGE CYLINDERS

This means changing tanks under the water (if there are more than 2) so that the tank with the gas needed at a given depth is located in the most convenient position for the diver.

from gas closer to the diver’s body. This is how we get an equal position of both tanks (the empty one raises the full one slightly) and easier ac cess to the valve of the tank currently used.

6. During complex dives, the diver can use more than one stage cylinder. Usually, there are 3 to 6 tanks. Each one contains a gas needed at differ ent depths.

In order to move freely and not be overweighted, no more than 2 tanks

are mounted on the side of the diver. The rest is attached to special loops called “leashes” on the diver’s hip d-rings that you slip between your legs.

7. Overhead diving requires distribut ing so-called “deposits”. These are stage cylinders mounted to the guide line at specific locations in a cave or wreck. This way the diver has more freedom, because they do not need to constantly transport all the tanks.

8. In open water diving, you may “re lease” empty tanks to the surface

using a line attached to a surface marker buoy. 11.1 L tanks resurface with their bottom up, so it is better to mount them to the line using the top snap.

Every organization that trains divers in using stage cylinders is using specific procedures. It is vital to learn them thor oughly and master them. Compare the methods you follow with the ones de scribed in our article. Practical tests will help you find the perfect configuration. Dive safe, WAF

PS.

You can write to the Perfect Diver’s ed itorial team with any reflections. If you prefer to talk in person, come to the Te cline Academy.

Photo Jon Borg