Perfect Diver Magazine 3 issue

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diving

No. 3

1(3)/2019

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freediving

passion

knowledge

last

Maya bastion Sharks from Fiji Dive on Um El Faroud wreck


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the foreword

Wojciech Zgoła

Editor-in-Chief

Dear reader, in the issue you are just reading (because I believe that at least some of you are reading, not only leafing through) we publish a dozen different articles accompanied by great photos. The first one concerns spectacular discoveries on a global scale. A group of Polish archaeologists, in agreement with the Guatemala authorities, flew to Central America to explore the region of the last Mayan bastion. Among the team was also our editorial colleague, Mateusz Popek. The underwater archaeologists dived in Lake Petén Itzá, and at its bottom they found well over 800 artefacts, including a mask and an obsidian knife. Amazing… Arousing curiosity and imagination… A story worth reading, I do recommend it. Staying in the climate of archaeology, it is worth noting that in Italy, between the towns of Baiae and Pozzuoli, on the Bay of Naples, today there is a sunken city. It is available to recreational divers and it is extremely interesting because we can see there lots of monuments dating back to the time before Christ. The text was written by Marcin Trzcinski and his photographs are included. We also have some amazing destinations for you on the world map. The kingdom of sharks in Fiji in a very well written account of Sylwia Kosmalska-Juriewicz and the amazing and unique Lembeh Strait in Indonesia, which is the dream of all the fanatics of macro photography. With this article Klaudyna Brzostowska made her debut, and her text was enriched with always very good photographs of Jakub Degee. We have of course a lot more. There is the whole truth about dolphins and important information for freedivers. There are caves and wrecks. For naturalists, we have a fish from the Baltic Sea and everything about herons. At the end, a few words from DAN in the text #whywedoit and two new reports from nice events. I also remind you that the electronic version of the magazine is free, so I encourage you to support us with any amount of donation: PayPal.Me/perfectdiver I cordially invite you to read, and wish you a safe dive in the Perfect Diver magazine.

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

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ta b l e o f co n t e n t s

travels 10 Last Maya Bastion 20 Archaeological Park Baiae 32 Fiji, kingdom of sharks 40 Lembeh Island 52 Toyapakeh Nusa Penida, Indonesia

from a freediver's perspective 60

10

A freediver's suitcase

caves 64 A magical region in France

wrecks 70

Plan your Um El Faroud diving in Malta

planet earth 56

Escape from „Alcatraz�

78

A sexy diver, is it possible?

80

Not so scary as it seems

knowledge 90 #whywedoit

4

32


nature 82

Publisher perfect diver wojciech zgoła

Heron, the waterside gentility

ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com ISsN 254-3319

editor in chief columnist underwater archeology freediving photographer english language translators

Wojciech Zgoła Irena Kosowska Mateusz Popek Agnieszka Kalska Jakub Degee Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak

legal care graphic design and composition

Lawyer Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

the magazine was folded with typefaces

Montserrat (Julieta Ulanovsky)

82

Open Sans (Ascender Fonts) Spectral (Production Type) printing

Wieland Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Poznań, www.wieland.com.pl

distribution

events 94 100

dive centers, online store

preorder@perfectdiver.com

Diving Festival of Power 3rd Warsaw Seminar on Underwater Archaeology

cover photo

Jakub Degee model

Short-tailed pipefish (Microphis brachyurus) place

Lembeh

www.perfectdiver.com

The Editorial Office does not return unsolicited materials, is not responsible for the content of advertisements and reserves the right to shorten, edit, title the submitted texts and select illustrative materials. Reprinting of articles or parts thereof, copying only with the consent of the Editorial Board. Editors are not responsible for the form and content of advertisements.

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If you like this issue, donate any amount! Donation is voluntary. PayPal.Me/perfectdiver perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

5


e d i to r i a l t e a m

Wojciech Zgoła

irena kosowska

jakub degee

He often repeats that he travels by diving

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Pols-

Polish photographer, winner of awards

and that is his motto. In 1985 he obtained

ka, diving and first aid instructor, technical

and distinctions in world underwater pho-

a yacht sailor's license, and only in 2006

diver and cave diver. In love with all flood-

tography competitions, has already dived

began to dive. In the following years he

ed, dark, cold, tight places and invariably

all over the world: with sharks and whales

improved his skills by obtaining the Dive

from the beginning of the diving route – in

in South Africa, with orcs behind the Arctic

Master degree. He completed nearly 650

the Baltic. Implementing the DAN mission,

Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds of ham-

dives in various climatic conditions. Since

he conducts a series of lectures "Dive safe-

merhead sharks and humpback whales

2007, he has been taking photographs un-

ly" and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field

in the Tonga Islands. He participates in

derwater, and since 2008 he has also been

research of divers for scientific purposes.

specialist photographic workshops. He

filming. As an independent journalist, he

has been diving for 27 years, he started at

published dozens of articles, mainly in

the age of 12 – as soon as it was formally

journals dedicated to diving, but not only.

possible. He was the first in the world to

Co-author of photo exhibitions in Poland

use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for un-

and abroad. He is passionate about and

derwater macro photography. Recently, in

propagator of diving.

the remote Chincorro archipelago on the

Since 2008 he has been running his own

border between Mexico and Belize, he did

website www.dive-adventure.eu. On the

it again, taking a successful attempt to pho-

basis of extensive experience, in August

tograph the eye of a crocodile with a mac-

2018 he created the new Perfect Diver

ro lens with an additional magnifying lens,

Magazine.

which is the world's largest photo of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of pixel count, print size, quality).

Mateusz Popek

Agnieszka kalska

"My passion, work and life are under water."

"I can not imagine life without water, where

He has been diving since 2009. Since 2008,

I experience freedom of the spirit in my free

he's walking in caves. Underwater archeol-

body."

ogist by education. He participated in nu-

●● founder of the first freediving and swim-

merous projects in Poland and abroad. He

ming school in Poland – FREEBODY,

has been engaged in professional diving

●● freediving instructor Apnea Academy In-

since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the qualifi-

ternational and PADI Master Freediver,

cations of a 2nd class diver. Has experience

●● record holder and multiple medalist of

in underwater work both at sea and inland.

the Polish Championships, member of the

Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, es-

national team in freediving 2013–2018,

pecially in the mountains, and since 2014

●● finalist of the Freediving World Cham-

he is a diving instructor CMAS M1.

pionships 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018, ●● a Polish national championship champion and a member of the national team in swimming in 1998–2003, ●● passionate about freediving and swimming.


o u r au t h o r s

agata turowicz

robert Ławrynowicz

jakub cieślak

Since I was a child, I had dreamed of be-

A traveler, an enthusiast of diving and un-

Diving instructor, author of the blog about

coming a marine biologist and I managed

derwater photography who has dived on

diving, social activist. He has been diving

to fulfill that dream. I did a degree in ocean-

five continents and the remaining ones are

for almost twenty years, mainly in Poland,

ography, where I recently started my doc-

on his bucket list. He always repeats: "The

has been a trainer for six years and also

toral studies. My diving adventure began

best is still ahead of us" and looks ahead

a member of the Group Exploring Diving

when I was 12 years old. I love observing

with optimism.

Sites near to Warsaw – a group promoting diving and protection of the water world.

the underwater life up close and I try to show other divers how fascinating the underwater, Baltic creatures are.

sylwia kosmalska-juriewicz

małgorzata mileszczyk

marcin trzciński

Dreams of close and distant trips have ac-

Underwater archaeologist and cultural an-

A graduate of the University of Warsaw. An

companied me since my childhood years…

thropologist at the University of Warsaw.

underwater photographer and filmmaker,

The desire to see the world was so great

Participant and coordinator of numerous

has been diving since 1995. A co-operator

that I changed the corporate office for the

underwater archaeological expeditions,

at the Department of Underwater Arche-

freedom which me travelling, sightseeing

both seaborne and inland. Loves to put

ology at the University of Warsaw. He pub-

and diving in the most remote parts of

a lot of effort in popularization. Participant

lishes in diving magazines in Poland and

the world.

of many noteworthy conferences, since

abroad. The owner of the FotoPodwodna

The reports from my trips are on the

2014 organizer of the Warsaw Seminar on

company which is the Polish representa-

divingandtravel.pl blog, and I invite you

Underwater Archaeology. Author and editor

tive of Ikelite, Nauticam, Inon, ScubaLamp-

for a joint trip with the Dive-away.pl travel

of many articles in the field of underwater

companies.

agency of which I am a co-founder.

archaeology (e.g. the monograph Just Add

www.fotopodwodna.pl

Water. Underwater Research at the University

m.trzcinski@fotopodwodna.pl

of Warsaw). Vegetarian and enthusiast of all living creatures.

margita "Mermaid" Ślizowska NAUI dive instructor, first emergency aid EFR and DAN oxygen first aid instructor. An actress and a vocalist. In everyday life she combines the passions for her jobs with the mission of helping people in different ways in many, seemingly distant fields. Recently, she was strongly involved in the co-creation of the Dive for Life project for clean seas and oceans. The owner of the Xdivers.pl diving school. Trymix and cave diver. Her greatest underwater love are the caves. And the diving priority – safety. "There is nothing in the world more supple or delicate than water; and yet there is nothing that exceeds it as far as toughness and force are concerned…" Lao-tse, Chinese tao master


o u r au t h o r s

jakub Banasiak

hubert borg

Marianne Aalders

Diver from 2008. Passionate of the Red

The owner of Seashell Diving Centre in Mal-

Being a PADI and SSI Instructor she is

Sea and pelagic ocean predators. Devoted

ta, has been diving for the past 20 years

travelleling, living and teaching since over

to the idea of protecting dolphins, sharks

and teaching divers of all levels from his

10 years through Asia. The last 5 years

and whales. He dives mainly where you can

own base in Mellieha Bay. Hubert is an SSI

based on Nusa Lembongan/Bali she is

meet these animals and monitor the level

and PADI Tec Trimix Instructor and regu-

running Dive in Culture together with her

of their well-being. Member of Dolphinar-

larly enjoys the best deep wrecks of Malta.

german partner, 2 laptops, 2 smartphones

ia-Free Europe Coalition, volunteer at Tethys

In 2012 Hubert has helped to set up and

and a reliable team of local balinese part-

Research Institute and Cetacean Research &

hosted the first SSI Service Centre in Malta,

ners. Staying away from normal "package

Rescue Unit, associate of Marine Connection.

giving the way to this new for Malta diving

bookings" they create a unique concept of

For 10 years he has been involved in re-

agency at that time. Hubert's diving cen-

individual travel.

search on wild dolphin populations and au-

tre is one of the few in the Maltese islands

Dive in the culture of Bali with diving, re-

dits dolphinariums. Together with the team

continually offering comprehensive diving

laxing, road trips, culture, nature treks,

"NO! For the Dolphinarium" he prevents dol-

services for those who would like to experi-

canyoning and remote camping. You state

phins from captivity and promotes knowl-

ence some of the worlds top diving.

what you want and specially what you

edge about dolphin therapy unsaid or

don't want and get a ready-made selection

concealed by centers which make money

of offers in the mailbox in the evening or at

on this form of animal therapy.

the weekend, where you can then browse in peace.

wojciech jarosz

Audrey Cudel

klaudyna brzostowska

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the

Technical Diving Instructor and renowned

A graduate of the Academy of Fine Arts

Academy of Physical Education (coaching

Underwater Photographer whose style is

in the field of Fashion Design in Łódź

specialization – handball) and the Univer-

famous within the Technical Diving commu-

and Film Studies at the Adam Mickiewicz

sity of A. Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology

nity. She is specialised in Sidemount, Tech-

University in Poznań. A seamstress by

(specialty of experimental biology). He con-

nical Sidemount & Cave Diving Training. She

profession, a passionate lover of natural

nected his professional life with this first

is based in Gozo but operates worldwide

beauty and a high doses of adrenaline.

university trying to influence the direction

both for training and exploration purpose.

Her adventure with diving tourism began

of development of future professionals on

Beyond her adaptive teaching recognition

from a backpacking trip around the world.

the one hand, and on the other planning

and her dedication to making each student

During her stay in Thailand she dived for

and implementing research, pushing labo-

a better diver, she is a passionate under-

the first time and from then on she got

riously in the right direction of the stroller

water photographer complementing each

hooked on at this sport. Spending the last

called science. In his free time he spends

training and diving session with numerous

years and most of her days under water,

his time actively – his main passions are

shots which became famous within the div-

teaching and showing the beauty of the

sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill

ing industry and through social medias. Her

underwater world in Asia, she believes

skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, rec-

work has been published in various mag-

that diving means unity – unity with own

reational diving and many other activities,

azines, Diving agencies websites, training

mind, nature and unusual creatures. Cur-

as well as photography, mainly nature.

materials & dive shows.

rently, a diving instructor and 1/4 of the female Activtour crew. With great commitment, she prepares amazing diving trips to the parts of the world close to her heart. www.activtour.pl, klaudyna@activtour.pl


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t r av e l s

Last Maya Bastion Text Mateusz popek Photos Petén Itzá Project – Underwater Archaeological Expedition to Guatemala

A morning on Flores Island. The air temperature will soon rise to over forty degrees Celsius. The scuba tank burns your hands, and the thirty-degree water does not bring relief. In the air you can smell the jungle stretching on the other side of the lake but there is something else…

10


T

his smell comes from other times, from anoth-

a few hours away, so we have some time to con-

er world. It is the scent of the mystery left here

template the beautiful lake.

by the Maya, and we are about to break into their underground world to learn about these secrets.

The city of Flores was built on the ruins of Maya Nojpetén. When the Spanish dominance already

Our expedition started about a week ago. After

covered the greater part of Mesoamerica, the Maya

overcoming an infinite number of administrative

bravely resisted and defended the independence

problems, travelling the ocean and a long journey

of the capital located on Petén Itzá Lake – their last

to the city of Flores lying on an island on Lake Petén

bastion. However, even this place was not saved

Itzá, we are finally there. This is a charming, colonial

from the devastating power of the conquistadors.

town with countless bars, hotels and hostels, where

In 1697 (as many as 172 years from the beginning

backpackers from all over the world rest before

of the conquest), the Spaniards led by Martín de

moving on. The goal of our expedition is almost at

Ursú y Arizmendi set up camp on one of the shores

our fingertips. Actually, you just need to cross the

of the lake. Preparing for the battle, they built

street to stand on the shore of the lake, the bottom

a ship, which was to facilitate their landing on the

of which we wish to penetrate, looking for the Maya

island. On March 13th, the conquistadors set off to-

secrets. Although our goal is so close, we cannot

wards Nojpetén. When their passage was blocked

start work, because the compressor that was sup-

by the flotilla of the Maya boats, the commander

posed to serve us from the first day of the project

of the Spaniards began a speech that was aimed

got stuck in the Guatemalan Customs Chamber

to force the defenders to surrender on supposed-

and we cannot get it back. There is hope, however,

ly peaceful conditions. At one point, the defend-

because the local firefighters have promised that

ers of the Nojpetén fortress could not bear it any

they would find a way to recharge our scuba tanks

longer and shot arrows at the Spanish ship. Two

and bring them to us in the evening, which is still

European soldiers were injured. One of them fired

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12


a musket in revenge. A chain reaction was started

is how they call their local boats, has a roof that

and the slaughter of the natives could no longer

at least protects us from the relentlessly burning

be stopped. The conquistadors occupied the city in

sun. When everyone is ready we set off towards

a few hours and thus finished their conquest with-

the planned area of the lake. The day before, the

out losing a single soldier of the Spanish garrison.

whole team gathered in the base to choose places that we would explore. It turned out to be the north

In the Maya culture, water has always been of great

side of Flores Island.

importance and associated with the world of the dead. The Mayan glyph och ha' means "enter the

The first divers enter the water. After the jump we

water" which symbolically refers to death. Cenotes

are surprised by the high temperature of the wa-

were gates to the underworld in which sacrifices

ter. The thirty-degree water does not cool down

were made, including the human ones. Water in the

even below twenty meters. Unfortunately, only the

culture of Maya appeared in every aspect of life and

temperature is tropical, because the transparency

was extremely important… My reflexions on history

is more like in a European lake and does not ex-

and culture are interrupted by the entrance of smil-

ceed two meters. From the very edge of the lake,

ing firefighters who are coming with good news.

the bottom is strewn with stones, which end some-

The scuba tanks are full. Tomorrow we can dive.

where around ten meters and there, less than a minute after the immersion, the divers team

We start the morning activities by packing the

encounters the first artefact. The buoy emerges

equipment on our boat, which is controlled by

from the water causing anxiety among the sur-

experienced and smiling Pedro. His lancha, this

face crew. Have they come across some historical

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

13


14


travels

graphed. The number of objects we have extracted

Each dive brings new discoveries and buoys shoot like crazy from underwater. The bottom of the lake is strewn with Mayan relics.

forces us to work on documentation almost every day until late at night. Having done the work, we can choose another area for exploration… The team working on this project consists of underwater archeologists and Mayanists from leading Polish universities, as well as excellent divers – enthusiasts. Everyone is equally committed to the success of the expedition. Although there are only

objects so quickly or has something happened?

six of us, the work goes smoothly. Everyone has an

To everyone's delight, after a while, two divers

assigned task that he or she carefully carries out. In

emerge, bringing out a huge vessel. We just need

addition to the diving itself, there are plenty of other

one shot from the GPS so that the first Maya ar-

duties to fulfill. Supplying, transporting scuba tanks

tefact could be documented. But there is more.

to and from firefighters, documenting, photograph-

Each dive brings new discoveries and buoys shoot

ing, drying the equipment. We spend the whole day

like crazy from underwater. The bottom of the lake

working and only after dark, when the temperature

is strewn with Mayan relics. None of us has seen

drops significantly, we can sit on the terrace in our

anything like this…

favourite restaurant with refreshing drinks.

We end the work day in the base, where the ar-

However, not every day is a success story, there

tefacts should be washed, inventoried and photo-

are also days when we go in the water and find

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16


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Thinking that this could be a Spanish cannonball,

An underwater archeologist must show some kind of intuition, because the shape protruding from the bottom, which

he got down to extracting it with a great deal of excitement. However, in the course of this operation some gases were released from the bottom, hitting him in the face and raising pressure. What a big surprise it was when the "cannonball" turned out to be the shell of a dead turtle, and the bub-

at first glance does not

bles were the gases resulting from the decompo-

resemble anything, can

sition of its body. However, this did not stop us

be something special.

from further searching. An underwater archeologist must show some kind of intuition, because the shape protruding from

18

nothing. There are also days when we are shiver-

the bottom, which at first glance does not resemble

ing underwater. Local lancheros (helmsmen and

anything, can be something special. This was the

boat owners) warn us that you can meet a croco-

case when one of the crew members saw a slight-

dile in this lake. We try not to think about it while

ly rounded shape at the bottom, giving no clue

diving, hoping that we will be unattractive to this

what it was in reality. After unveiling the top layer

reptile. Emotions are elevated while searching

of stones, a round outline of a vessel appeared.

for objects in deep mud. You never know what

Similar to what we got every day a dime a dozen.

a diver's hand will encounter and what the ob-

However, the removal of further layers of sand and

ject will be extracted from. During such a search,

stones uncovered three small bowls, inserted into

one of the divers hit a round object sunk in silt.

one another. After placing them in the basket for


a d v e r t i s eme n t

the artefacts, it turned out that under them were two delicate, beautifully made bowls, on three legs. The biggest surprise though was the obsidian knife between them. A cry of joy scared the nearby crabs. After extracting such an object, it was necessary to check what else was inside of those vessels. Delicate examination of several hours allowed us to find there fragments of obsidian, burnt wood or shells with an opening, things that probably used to be beautiful jewelry. What was that find? We can assume that it was an offering for one of the Maya gods. The bowls with the content and the blade were probably closed and placed together in a net, so we found them in one place. For which god was this sacrifice? What was the intention of the givers? We will probably never find out. Our expedition lasted a month. During this period, we made dozens of dives, finding more than 800 artefacts. They were found not only around Flores Island once inhabited by the Maya, but also around two other smaller islands. It turned out that the lake has an amazing archaeological potential. Everything points to the fact that it was extremely important for the Maya who lived there, and we only discovered the tip of the iceberg that is hidden at the bottom of this dark lake.

members of the team: Magdalena Krzemień, Sebastian Lambert, Iga Snopek, Małgorzata Mileszczyk, Jakub Maciejewski, Mateusz Popek

At the end – the whole team would like to thank the main sponsor, Sebastian Lambert and Ida Snopek, without whom this expedition would never have taken place.


t r av e l s

20


Archaeological Park

Baiae Text and photos Marcin Trzciński

This story began long, long ago – at a time when entire Gaul was covered by dense forests crossed only rarely by Roman roads. Aqueducts and amphitheatres were just beginning to be built and the glory of Rome was disturbed by only one small village. A small settlement in which the druid Panoramix mixed his secret potions, and Obelix with Asterix, in the breaks between sparrings with legionaries, stuffed themselves with roasted wild boars.

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

21


F

urther north, no one thought about Brexit yet,

of the fleet caused the rapid development of the

because the Brit-in project was just being im-

region, the construction of warehouses, cisterns,

plemented. In the east, however, due to partisan

docks and workshops. However, quite soon, that is

disputes, we had to wait more than a thousand

in 12 BC, the army left the region, making it avail-

years for the construction of Mirmiłowo to begin.

able for civilian purposes. The proximity of the

It was in those times, a little more to the south, that

port and the picturesque location of neighbouring

five years after the famous "Alea iacta est" (The die

towns, combined with the presence of warm ther-

is cast) Julius Caesar whispered "Et tu Brute contra

mal waters in the area, led in the following years

me?" (Even you, Brutus?), thus completing his col-

to the development of the region recognized as

lection of famous quotes and beginning a period

a "resort" for the well-known patrician families.

of successive internal wars within the borders of

On the slopes of the mountains, beautiful villas,

the Roman Empire.

bathhouses and numerous temples were created. Here stood the "second homes" of the gens Claudia

In 37 BC during the civil war between Octavian

and Piso (in later years, for conspiring against Nero,

Augustus and Sextus Pompey, the construction

their property was forfeited to the emperor), while

of a large port for the imperial war fleet began in

Cicero and Horace were known to visit.

the Bay of Naples. The work initiated by Marcus

22

Agrippa, Augustus' trusted friend, consisted of con-

In 39 AD, by order of emperor Caligula, to whom

necting with a navigable channel the lakes Avernus

a fortune teller predicted that "Caligula has no

and Lucrinus and the waters of the bay between

more chance of becoming emperor than of riding

the small towns of Baiae and Puteoli. The presence

a horse across the Bay of Baiae", an over two-mile


travels

long pontoon bridge was constructed across the

activity occurring in this part of the Mediterrane-

bay linking Baiae with Puteoli. And the emperor

an basin caused gradual slide of the tectonic plate

duly rode over the bridge on horseback… When on

deep into the sea, so that now the neighbourhood

July the 10th 138 AD the ailing emperor Hadrian was

of the former patrician villas is located about five

dying in Baiae, he could not suppose that the em-

metres below the surface of the water…

pire that was then at the height of its power would cease to exist within a few centuries… But it did.

Finally, it was going to begin! Eating a pizza in a bar

The fall of the Roman Empire, barbarian invasions

located on a beach, empty at this time of the year,

and the plundering of the area in the 8th century

I could not wait for the afternoon dive. The deeper

by a Muslim army, which after gaining control of

dives in the morning enabled me to "warm up" and

the Iberian Peninsula, Sicily and Sardinia launched

take a few photos. Now we were about to make

invasions on the mainland of the Apennine Penin-

much shallower dives, but in what a place! In the

sula, triggered the demise of the region. Tectonic

Underwater Archaeological Park of Baiae! In the

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

23


Tectonic activity occurring in this part of the Mediterranean basin caused (…) that now the neighbourhood of the former patrician villas is located about five metres below the surface of the water…

ter the morning dives). Brrr! Fortunately, we did not have to go far, so after two minutes we were at the foot of the rock, in the shadow of which we were to dive. I glanced down over the RIB's side, but the water was so muddy that even though the sunken villas were located at a depth of only five metres, nothing was visible. At the bottom it will certainly be better, I thought. So I slipped into the water and after getting the photo equipment, I began to descend towards the bottom. The water was cool and not very clear, but there was no need to panic. The visibility reached a few metres. After a while Kair, Wojtek and Adam arrived. We were all together and we could move on. In a broad line, a metre behind our guide, we moved towards the still invisible ruins. Invisible? I looked more closely at the small hill on the left. Its shape was too regular for Mother Nature to have created it. Undoubtedly, it was manmade and a few centuruins of a villa from 2,000 years ago! So what if the

ries ago it was the foundation of a house. Looking

water was not yet the best and the clouds were still

around, I noticed more and more fragments of the

obscuring the sun? In a few dozen minutes I was

old residence. We swam between two walls which

going to reach our destination and to "touch" his-

stood some five metres apart and once were prob-

tory again.

ably tall and ornate, but now they were rising only fifty centimetres above the bottom. Though… The

24

Kair confirmed that the most spectacular part of

situation clearly changed in the front. Because of

the excavations, ie. Ninfeo di Claudio, would be

the poor visibility, it seemed that the corridor we

the first place to go to. That was where there were

were in all of a sudden changed into a wide hall –

beautiful floors and sculptures that I had seen on

nymphaeum. On both sides there were statues of

the few pictures available on the net. It was so cool!

gods and members of the gens Claudia. I swam to

But first you had to pull on the wetsuit (still wet af-

the bottom, to the feet of the figure of Dionysius,


travels

the god of wine and grapevine. I waved at Kair so

us. The time was running out relentlessly, and our

that she would go around the figure from the back

weather window did not give us a chance for lengthy

and swim up to it from the left. She looked nice in

exploration of the excavations. Therefore, rushed by

the full-face mask she used for her frequent under-

our guide, I followed her towards the next rooms of

water work. A few camera flashes later I asked her

the villa. Stop! Kair turned cautiously over the grit-

to repeat the whole scene from the beginning with

ty, pebble-covered bottom, and began to brush the

the approach from the back. I wanted to be sure

outer layer with her hand. She stirred up so much

that at least a few photos will be ok.

mud that after a while there was almost nothing to see. But the gentle current began to move the cloud

Moving from figure to figure, I photographed with

obscuring the view somewhere to the side and,

passion. The king of Ithaca, Odysseus, and the statue

while initially vaguely, with every second I could see

of Antonia Minor, the mother of the emperor Claudi-

the exposed floor better. It was beautiful, made of

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25


26


travels

tiny white pebbles. The fish attracted by the move-

back. But first you had to tidy up after yourself,

ment began to spin over the bottom, searching for

covering both floors.

food. I wanted to wait a bit longer, but Kair moved on, leaving the site unveiled. She gave us a sign that

That evening was very successful. Not only because

we would be back there in a moment.

of the fact that the diving put us in a great mood, but also the food served in the "Da Bernardo" trat-

She was right, we had to let this dust settle a little.

toria at via Montenuovo Licola Patria turned out to

Especially as we did not move far, only to the neigh-

be very tasty. The beginning was excellent, when

bouring room, not even using the door for this pur-

the owner of the restaurant, grim as a Neapolitan

pose, but by swimming over the wall. The bottom of

mafioso served us a platter of bruschetta wonder-

the room was covered with thick mats pressed by

fully smelling of garlic, olive oil and fresh tomatoes.

big stones. We removed a few and after uncover-

Such a starter "on the house". And then it was even

ing the material… I was speechless. A smooth floor

better. No wonder that when I finally found myself

was made of beautiful marble. Damaged, indeed, in

in bed, I could not sleep for a long time. Despite the

some places, by the passage of time and the action

fatigue, my full stomach (at Wojtek's insistence we

of water, but still preserved in a surprisingly good

finished the feast in an adjacent ice cream shop,

condition. Several more photos and we had to go

eating large portions of gellato) and the prospect

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27


The excavated sculptures are presented in a museum located in the castle towering over the bay. And in the water, exact replicas of the monuments were set up, made with

Villa Protorio. The port was relegated to the third place, and to the fourth the Smokey Reef, a geological phenomenon, a place where gases from the rocks of the tectonically active interior of the earth are released outside. Oh, such a natural jacuzzi.

the same technique, the

We set off and after a moment we were there.

same material and with

I jumped into the water first to check the dome

damage corresponding to the originals.

port that I installed in the morning on the wide-angle converter. It had fogged up the day before and I wondered if it would be better now. Unfortunately, it was not. Already at two metres deep, it began to fog up until it fogged up completely. Eh… I swam

of subsequent dives kept me awake. But in the end

to the bottom and having chosen a large mooring

I fell asleep…

stone for my workshop, I reached into the jacket for the hex key that I wisely had brought with me.

Sunshine! There was not much sunshine coming

I loosened the screws and then carefully, so as not

through the closed shutters, but enough to say that

to lose any, I started to take them out of the con-

the day was going to be great. Like a fish on the

verter case. Phew, ready. The only thing left to do

ice, I began to bustle around the room, preparing

was to remove the converter but it was stuck to the

the photo equipment for the tasks ahead. Finally,

port by water pressure. I wrestled with it for a mo-

after breakfast, we headed towards Centro Sub

ment, nervously glancing at the divers hovering

Campi Flegrei. Kair was already there, so we did

nearby. They were waiting for me, and I was taking

not hesitate to get our diving equipment out of the

their precious time. Well, that nonsense was point-

base building. I really felt like diving. The smooth

less. I swam upwards, pulling at the converter, and

sea and the clear sky made us feel optimistic. It

at the depth of two metres I finally succeeded. The

was definitely our day! The first place to see ac-

water poured into the dome, and I could separate it

cording to the plans of our guide was Portus Julius.

from the UWL-H100. I fell to the bottom, packed all

Founded in the thirties BC, the port was the result

the "toys" and we could move on. First, as we had

of the war led by the emperor Octavian Augustus

already agreed on the surface, we swam towards

against Sextus Pompey. At the request of Marcus

the floors. We were going to reveal the sculptures

Agrippa, Octavian's adviser, the lakes Avernus and

and wait for the water to clear.

Lucrinus were connected by a navigable channel,

28

and the huge naval base created in this way was

However, before we completed cleaning the sculp-

named after Julius Caesar. It was a nice plan, but

tures, Kair stopped above the floor and began to

I had to intervene. Especially after I learned that

search through it. I did not hurry, but it took far too

there would be a patch of bad weather in the af-

long. And in addition, Wojtek, who so far stayed in

ternoon. Portus Julius was incredibly interesting,

the back, lay down in front of her at the bottom and

but on the available pictures it did not look even

snapped pictures. What was going on? I descended

in a quarter so good as the flooded villas located

to them and I was surprised to see a small octo-

in the northern part of the gulf. It took a while be-

pus hidden under a stone. Well, yes. How silly of

fore the approved plan of diving (and the issued

me! Now I had to try hard to capture something in

permits) could be changed, but persistence some-

the shot, as Wojtek already took the best position

times pays off. According to the new plan, we were

for photos. Hugging to his side, I tried to capture

to start with Ninfeo di Claudio, seen yesterday, so

something. One close-up, another one. Okay, may-

that for a second dive we could swim to the nearby

be a wide angle? Both the octopus and Kair hanging


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29


behind it? I screwed on a wide angle lens, which

found. Using the method from the first dive, we

I had taken off just a moment earlier, and put the

started unveiling them. In this case, however, what

camera to my eye. A trial photo to set the parame-

I saw was even more impressive. I looked at the

tres. I checked. It was ok, though the frame was

beautifully decorated floors, with mosaics arranged

too tight. I put the camera back to my eye again

in white and black stone. How beautiful it looked!

and this time framed the photo differently. Oh yes,

In fact, wherever I moved, something interesting

great! I started to press the shutter button when

appeared. A fragment of a cobbled street running

I saw a sudden movement in the viewfinder. The

between the villas, or a floor, or fragments of heat-

nervous cephalopod got fed up with us and took

ing systems in the bath.

off. And I was left without a photo. Eh… Well, It was time to move towards the sculptures waiting for us

The first finds in the Baiae region took place in

in the next room.

the 1950s. When a few years later, as a result of a storm, the front of Punta Epitaffio slipped into

30

Hopping into the water over Villa Protiro I was al-

the water, works were carried out, as a result of

ready cold. But it was here that the most beauti-

which the first of the statues,e.g. Odysseus, were

ful floors in the whole excavation site were to be

discovered. But it was not until the eighties that fur-


travels

ther works began, which resulted in finding more statues in the apse. The excavated sculptures are presented in a museum located in the castle towering over the bay. And in the water, exact replicas of the monuments were set up, made with the same technique, the same material and with damage corresponding to the originals. However, all other elements of the underwater landscape remained antique. Floors, buildings, heating systems, etc. That was all I knew about the underwater wonders of the Baiae Underwater Archaeological Park. And I saw little more. Just one extra afternoon dive in the already rough waters at Portus Julius. I was not able to convince myself to do the next one on the Smoky Reef. It was too choppy. Only Wojtek and Adam went there as I watched the RIB leap on the waves towards the centre of the bay. The sky was dangerous and steel-blue again. In a few hours it was sure going to rain… When we were leaving the hotel on Saturday morning, it was raining cats and dogs. Or even worse. The grey, autumn landscape outside the window was not what we wanted to see. Well, such a whim of nature. Of the planned sixteen dives, I only did six. There was not enough luck. But it was not all bad. After all, we had our own weather window. And we made the best of our time.

a d v e r t i s eme n t

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Fiji

kingdom of sharks Text sylwia kosmalska-juriewicz

Photos Robert Ĺ awrynowicz

A Zen proverb says: "The paradise bird only lands on the hand that does not catch it". Be a good observer of the underwater world, watch carefully, enjoy what you see, learn and absorb as much as possible. Co-exist, but do not touch anything, and you will experience a lot more than you can imagine‌

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I

am in a paradise in which not only do I recharge

a peculiar rhythm… the joy of every morning is giv-

my batteries, but also two spare power banks. Fiji

en to everyone, especially to the people of Fiji and

is the greenest, most remarkable and remote place

from the morning I hear the joyful word "BULA",

I have ever been to. A large area of the island is

which is our "hello", only in the local language. Lit-

occupied by evergreen tropical forests, which cre-

erally translated, it means "life".The natives use this

ate a unique microclimate here. Huge ferns sprout

greeting all day. The positive mood is imparted to

over the trees, and slender lianas hang free and

literally everyone, we also very quickly "go to the

entwine everything they encounter on their way.

light side of the Force" of Fiji and pay homage to the morning, saying the joyful word BULA.

Our hotel is located by the Pacific Ocean in the heart

34

of the paradise garden… one hour by bus from the

Every day after breakfast, a bus arrives and we

capital – Suva. Every day in the morning I run to the

drive to a diving center just twenty minutes from

ocean to admire the sunrise, a golden-red shield

the hotel. I love the moment when the car drives off

slowly emerging from the water and coloring it or-

the main asphalt road and starts slowly going into

ange. I love the peace of the morning, only birds

the tropical forest. The road is narrow, winding and

and the hum of palm leaves remind me that I am

bumpy, completely out of the comfort zone, but the

not alone here, that everything around me is alive

views… the views are indescribable. On the right

and that I am happy for the coming of a new day.

side there is a gorge, filled with trees to the horizon.

This is an extraordinary process that repeats itself

After rain, a small group of men cuts with machet-

from the beginning of the world and gives our life

es the plants that overgrow the narrow side roads


travels

at an incredibly fast rate. The expansion of green-

behave in the presence of sharks and who are the

ery in this area is almost unbelievable. Even the

people who care about our safety during the dive.

air here is different, moist and saturated with the scent of flowers, earth and forest. It is a pity that

In Fiji, around the island of Beqa, divers from all

I cannot lock it in a bottle and bring to my country.

over the world come in for one purpose, to dive with sharks of many species at the same time. The

Never before had I seen a diving center located in

population of these unusual creatures, unfortu-

such a paradisiacal place. The rainforest surrounds

nately, is decreasing day by day. The statistics are

us from all sides, colorful flowers and bushes are

alarming. According to American scientists, about

blooming everywhere, and white birds are circling

100 million of these creatures are killed annually

over our heads. The view is as from the best wildlife

by the hand of man.

film but seen with your own eyes. The main reason for the tragic tendency is the In the diving center we are greeted by Jane, the

Asian "delicacy", shark fin soup. Until a few years

manager and a diving instructor. We go inside, fill

ago, this dish was very expensive. It was served

in the necessary documents and are ready for the

only at sophisticated parties to sharpen the guests'

first descent into the water, encounter with sharks.

appetite. The situation changed dramatically when

Before this happens Jane invites us for a long brief-

the Chinese people began to get rich. Currently, the

ing, which aims to show us what the whole shark

shark fin soup is widely available and can be eaten

dive is about. What are the risks, how we should

in second-rate bars or restaurants.

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35


When fishing for this predator, fishermen cut off

with wild, potentially dangerous predators. We dive

the main dorsal fin of the animal when the shark is

without cages and very close to sharks that can at-

still alive. They throw the rest of the body back into

tack us at any moment. The diving center has devel-

the sea, where the creature dies in terrible torment.

oped a number of procedures that should ensure our safety during a dive. The rules are changed and

The biggest paradox of this world is the fact that

modified on the basis of shark research and ob-

huge poverty affects people who live in the most

servations that are carried out on a regular basis.

heavenly places on earth, such as the Fiji Islands. It is the lack of prospects and hunger that drive peo-

Before dawn, two scuba divers sail to the place

ple to disastrous behavior. My friend, who for many

where they dive with sharks. They leave a basket

years has lived on one of the paradise islands, says:

full of fish heads and entrails, which are designed

"poor man, he is capable of everything, especially

to attract sharks from the whole area. Thanks to

the one who is hungry".

this, scientists can study the behavior of many species of sharks at the same time, and divers enjoy

Before the Shark Reef underwater reserve was cre-

their presence.

ated in this part of the world, many of Fiji's inhabitants were fishing sharks for profit, and now that

We sail to the dive spot for about thirty minutes

they have found employment in the broadly under-

in a speedboat. It is a beautiful sunny day, perfect

stood tourism industry, they take care of sharks,

for meeting sharks. The boat slows down in the

protect them and care for their safety.

middle of the ocean, the captain turns off the engines and announces that we have arrived. It is so

36

What is the idea of shark diving in the reserve?

quiet and peaceful, it is hard to believe that more

Above all, each of us must realize that we are diving

than one hundred sharks are underwater. I have


reef, we swim in the group, and one more thing,

It is so quiet and peaceful, it is hard to believe that more than one hundred sharks are underwater.

all the retro-reflecting elements of the diving suit are strictly forbidden". So why have I taken a pink mask and the fins of the same colour?! (In my thoughts I am punishing myself for my vanity.) Am I the only one who has dressed up for sharks

(…) I start to wonder

today? "Relax," Jane smiles as she sees conster-

what I am doing here.

nation on my face – this color is not one of the favourite colours of sharks, so you can easily wear fuchsia. And the last very important information, keep your hands close to the body during the dive.

always felt a great respect for the water and for all

This requirement was introduced after a shark bit

the creatures that live in it. Today, however, I feel

off a diver's hand when he was pointing at some-

everything with twice as much strength, fear mixed

thing with his finger".

with excitement and I start to wonder what I am doing here. Maybe I should focus more on yoga, it

We jump into the water in the middle of the ocean

is such a safe and peaceful activity, but I love the

and slowly descend to a rock ledge located a few

world and sharks so much…

meters below us. Suddenly I forget about my fear, yoga and other matters that were bothering my

"The whole group must follow the same dive

thoughts, when on the horizon the sharks well-

profile and bottom time" – Jane reminds us, thus

known to me appear: tawny nurse shark, whitetip

dispelling my yogi vision. "Please remember,"

reef shark, blacktip shark and sicklefin lemon

she adds, "that no one individually explores the

shark. Despite their impressive size, they turn out

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37


The number of sharks increases by the minute and

I can see him clearly, his spots, eyes and shiny skin, he flows right next to me, agile and classy, as if he was the king of this herd.

those that are considered very dangerous to humans are coming too. Paradoxically, it was them we wanted to see the most. Tiger sharks, grey reef sharks, silvertip sharks and bull sharks. I grit my teeth on the mouthpiece of the scuba regulator and close my eyes when the largest representative of the shark family, the five-meter tiger shark appears on the horizon. I can see him clearly, his spots, eyes and shiny skin, he flows right next to

to be gentle and completely uninterested in human

me, agile and classy, as if he was the king of this

presence. The latter stands out against the group,

herd. It is difficult to take my eyes off him, despite

because it has an incredible "smile", a sneering

the fact that a group of forty bull sharks, also of

smile, appreciated by the creators of children's

impressive size, is approaching. How could I think

tales, where it is usually cast in the role of a bad

about yoga even for a second? I would not trade

character. I had the pleasure of diving with these

this moment for the world.

sharks earlier in various places around the world,

38

but never with all of them together and in such

During our two-week stay in Fiji, we dived for four

a large number. Usually I could see only single in-

days with sharks, and the remaining dives were

dividuals or small groups of sharks.

done at nearby reefs. The visibility of water at the


travels

Kava ceremony During the traditional welcome ceremony in Fiji, a piper methysticum root broth is served, also known as kava. However, it has nothing to do with the well-known morning taste of espresso. To prepare a Fijian drink you need a plant root, which you have to grind to obtain a paste. Then you mix with the paste with crystal clear water in a special wooden vessel. A brown, slightly bitter drink with a relaxing turn of April and May exceeds 40 m, and the water

and euphoric effect is served to the participants

temperature varies between 26°C–28°C. During

of the ceremony in a coconut cup. The ritual

the dive we met impressive schools of fish, turtles,

ends with a dance together while

moray eels, stingrays and dolphins, which always

playing local music.

make me smile. Unprecedented. Only in this way I can define these

From the Editor

unusual, emotional encounters that teach humility and respect to all creatures on our planet. I feel great gratitude for the fact that I could meet amazing people, enthusiasts who love and protect sharks, who contribute to the fact that their population is growing from year to year.

The Republic of Fiji – an island state (over 800 islands and islets), located in the southwestern part of the Pacific, about 2800 km east of Australia and about 2000 km north of New Zealand. The islands are of volcanic origin and are surrounded by coral reefs. State capital – Suva. Tropical rainforest climate. Time zone UTC+12.

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Lembeh Island

Text Klaudyna Brzostowska

Photos jakub degee

The variety of diving destinations in Indonesia inspires those who have had the opportunity to see at least a bit of this country. Thousands of islands and an area of 93,000 km2 of inland waters provide a huge array of underwater experiences. There is one absolutely unique place that attracts lovers of marine fauna and flora as well as underwater photographers.

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A

small but irresistible strait in the heart of the

called 'dirty diving' (muck diving). However, nothing

Coral Triangle. The Lembeh Strait, since we are

is dirty there and the name just refers to the colour

talking about this spot, is a special place in terms

of the sand. While immersing you are looking at

of macro diving and muck diving (dirty diving). The

the grey and black bottom covered with kind of

one who has dived at least once there is bound to

poppy seeds and wondering what you are really

return there regularly.

doing there. After a while, you have no doubts. In front of your eyes appears the first strange crea-

The area around the Lembeh island has been

ture, after a while another, and you instantly get

known for many years to biologists and divers from

hooked on this type of diving. Muck diving is char-

all around the world, luring them with thousands

acterized by shallower submerging and spending

of unusual species of animals living in the local wa-

time on the sandy bottom, where you entertain

ters. It is considered the world centre of macro div-

yourself finding hidden strange creatures. Diving

ing, thus being the Mecca for photographers who

sites in the strait are mostly sand substrates with

want to capture the camouflage masters.

handfuls of scattered coral structures, sponges and sea anemones. It is thanks to the rich in nu-

42

According to the researchers of the underwater

trients volcanic waters that such lush marine life

fauna and flora, this area is characterized by the

developed here. Residents of the local waters per-

greatest biological diversity in the world and it was

fectly blend in the topography of the landscape.

found that it is in the Lembeh Strait that extremely

Some of them are ultra-predators, who, thanks to

rare colonies of marine animals live. The channel

dazzling colours and adaptive shape, have a guar-

separating Celebes from Lembeh island is full of

anteed high position in the food chain. The kalei-

places vibrant with life developed at the volcanic

doscope of the amazing creatures of this region is

bottom of the sea. Diving in this type of a bottom is

stunning – cuttlefish, scorpionfish, nudibranchs,


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Muck diving in Lembeh is a guarantee of a brilliant portfolio. It surprises with the unique multitude of species that are hard to find anywhere else.

What is worth noting, are the night dives available in the vicinity of the strait waters. Each diver in mystical concentration, in the beam of flashlight, can observe the wonders of nature. During the night muck dive we are witnessing the high activity of sea creatures. It is at night that you can find the Metasepia prefferi cuttlefish, which in a place named Jahir have their breeding place. Here they spawn in the shells of coconuts. Sometimes hatched young or freshly laid spawn can be observed. Another creature that uses the shell in an interesting way is octopus, specifically Amphioctopus marginatus. Commonly known as coconut octopus, it took a liking for the coconut shells as a mobile place of refuge in case of danger. An interesting thing to observe is the way this invertebrate moves with a shell. This sea creature travels using elongated tentacles, hiding the coconut shell under the trunk. This is the first recorded invertebrate using a tool in a planned way. The Lembeh Strait has been made famous as the world centre of extraordinary creatures and has been attracting renowned underwater photographers for over ten years. Due to its potential, around the strait have been developed facilities

44

cotyledons, Hippocampus bargibanti seahorses,

dedicated to divers and underwater photogra-

Metasepia pfefferi, young pinnate spadefish (Pl-

phers. Some of the centres offer training and reg-

atax pinnatus), ghost pipe fish (Solenostomus)

ular photography events. Compared to others, the

and various species of octopuses. Most of these

Lembeh Resort is particularly distinguished with

creatures can be admired already at the first dive.

a diving centre, a rental shop and photo and video

The essence of local dives is the chance of meeting

equipment service. It is here that conferences, pho-

unique species. In the Lembeh Strait, the guides

to workshops and meetings of enthusiasts from

ask very specific questions: What type of seahorses

all over the world take place. Grey and black sand

do you want to see? Have you seen the mimic octo-

is the perfect background for capturing creatures

pus yet?

living there. Muck diving in Lembeh is a guarantee


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riously or want to try their hand at taking pictures,

(…) warm waters, moderate currents and relatively shallow dives make it an ideal destination for both amateurs and professional photographers.

the Strait of Lembeh is unmatched. The adventure at Lembeh does not finish at muck and macro diving. Those looking for diversity will certainly not be disappointed by the rich structures of table corals, walls full of gorgonias and the Mawali wreck from the World War II. The wealth of the northern Sulawesi, however, offers much more than that. Not far away, to the west of the narrow strait, there is the Bunaken National Marine Park. It is an

of a brilliant portfolio. It surprises with the unique

ideal destination for lovers of steep walls of soft and

multitude of species that are hard to find any-

hard corals, strong currents and pelagic animals, in

where else. I mean such specimens as: Rhinopias

particular reef sharks and green sea turtles. Beyond

scorpionfish, mimic octopus and creatures of Hap-

the park's borders is the Bangka Island. It is a point

alochlaena type and Antennariidae family, pipefish

on the open sea that lures divers with a group of

or Ambon scorpionfish. In addition, warm waters,

spears reaching above the surface of the water.

moderate currents and relatively shallow dives

Around the spears a lot of schools of horse mack-

make it an ideal destination for both amateurs

erel, barracudas and Caesionidae can be observed.

and professional photographers. Each of us, after

50

dozens of diving hours, finds their own diving path.

For several years Indonesia, including the north of

For those who treat underwater photography se-

Celebes, has been extremely popular. However, it


a d v e r t i s eme n t

is this narrow and dark strait that particularly attracts enthusiasts of diving and sea creatures. It is not surprising, therefore, that after Lembeh experiences it is difficult to find a place that will satisfy the curiosity of muck- and macro-diving fans. Maybe it is worth coming back every now and then?

Jakub Degee – our editorial colleague at Perfect Diver, best known for shark photography, for which he won prizes in competitions in England and Germany, returns to the roots and invites to macrophotography workshops in Indonesia. Lembeh gives you the greatest opportunities to expand your portfolio thanks to the largest number of species, the most photographer-friendly substrate and small depths. Check out the Activtour.pl offer.

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Toyapakeh Nusa Penida indonesia

Text Marianne Aalders

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Photos juergen koch


W

hen people ask me what is my favorite dive

Or you are flying and looking at the general view,

site, I find it so hard to give just the one an-

or you are turning every stone, looking under all

swer. I live in Nusa Lembongan, a small island of

the overhangs to see what little stuff there is to be

the coast of Bali. Here the diving is amazing; every

discovered.

spot has its own beauty to offer and changes with every dive.

So if I would have to make a decision about the dive sites, it will be Toyapakeh. This dive site is just in

In the dry season we get cold currents (April

the mouth of the channel between the two islands

through to October) and warm water currents the

Nusa Penida and Nusa Ceningan. This also makes

rest of the year. This also brings in different fish

it sometimes impossible to dive as there can be

life! Sometimes we have very strong currents, then

some very scary, tricky currents. But when it is at

other times we have no currents at all which makes

its best, I want to have a holiday home there and

the way you are diving a dive site very different!

spend the weekend.

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There are impossible amounts of different corals and just way too many fish, not even to speak of all the small stuff hiding between the stunning coral. The coral is made out of both hard and soft corals;

Here the diving is amazing; every spot has its own beauty to offer and changes with every dive.

there are schools of small fish, but also the occasional big stuff surprising you! Still my heart skips a little beat when the conditions When I’m diving there and it is at its best, I’m al-

are good and we get to dive here!

ways disappointed when I need to go up because my customers are getting low on air! When you are

When you want to come and see for yourself! I’ll

passionate about diving, you just want to stay down

be happy to guide you to this amazing place and

there forever. I’ve dived this site so many times

let you have your own opinion about Toyapakeh

(think 5 years… maybe minimum 2 times a week).

dive site. a d v e r t i s eme n t

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

55


planet earth

Escape from „Alcatraz” Text and photos jakub banasiak

Dolphinarium owners fear like the plague the news and stories of dolphins, which despite their years spent in a dolphinarium, coped well in the ocean. Over the last few decades, the cases of dolphins taken from dolphinariums, prepared again for life in freedom and successfully restored to the environment have been described in detail. However, the most interesting and spectacular stories are of dolphins' escapes, where the animals themselves decided to abandon the allegedly good and friendly living conditions.

It

56

is worth recalling these stories, because the

cause they will only be dolphins born in captivity

spectre of another dolphinarium, or another

who do not know life in the sea and which cannot

prison for animals, is haunting Europe. The Hun-

be released. After all, they would not survive on

garian investor, the owner of the marine aquar-

their own, without human care… This is a very con-

ium “Tropicarium” in Budapest, wants to expand

venient argument, used in the dolphin business,

his tourist attraction with swimming pools with

also as an excuse for the reproduction of dolphins

dolphins. And like many other investors, he uses

in captivity. The cases of the return of enslaved dol-

the argument that animals will not be harmed, be-

phins to life in the sea put a lie to this argument.


And what is more, the stories about escaping dol-

One evening something unforeseen happened.

phins are so attractive to the media that they help

Without any help from outside, Bahama Mama

to publicise widely how things really are.

pushed through a loose part of the net and fled into the open sea. Everyone was convinced that

Particularly intriguing is the story of the escape

the bottlenose female would not be able to cope

from "dolphin Alcatraz" of a female bottlenose

on its own in the wild. And how amazed and de-

dolphin named Bahama Mama. This dolphin was

lighted the marine researchers Ken and Diane were

kept in a marine pen at Treasure Island. There were

when they met Bahama Mama, safe and sound,

a total of 9 dolphins, caught in local waters, to of-

with a group of dolphins six months after her es-

fer tourists the opportunity to swim with these sea

cape. There could be no mistake. Any doubts were

mammals. Bahama was separated from freedom

dispelled by the identification of the dorsal fin and

by a wire net (a double one in places), overgrown

by a short film shot by the scientists. The evidence

with algae and reaching to the bottom. The dol-

was so obvious that the dolphinarium owners did

phin spent there 17 years, repeatedly hearing the

not even try to argue against it.

sounds and calls of wild animals passing nearby. Sometimes, especially at night, the wild relatives

Even more important from the point of view of

swam very close to the fence. Ken Balcomb and

fighting the arguments of the bosses of the dolphin

his wife, marine biologist Diane Claridge, who had

business seems to be the story of another escape –

studied the bottlenose dolphin population in this

the dolphin female Anessa, which had never before

region in the Bahamas for over five years, often

experienced a life of freedom. Ken Balcomb wrote

observed such visits.

in his report: "Annessa, a bottlenose dolphin born

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57


through the area after her escape: Hurricane Kat-

(…) it is not necessary to be born in the wild to know and feel that a dolphin's place is in the ocean and

rina (August 25) and Hurricane Rita (September 20). When this happened, Annessa was 11 years old. Long 11 years spent in captivity. Previously, she was described as timid and withdrawn. A reporter

not in a container of glass

from The Pittsburg Press reported on his visit to

and concrete or in a marine

the dolphinarium in 1990: "…About 5 other peo-

pen with humans.

ple stood in the waist-deep water, hoping to make friends with Nat or Annessa, a female dolphin who also lived in the centre. It soon became clear to us that Annessa was shy, swimming in the margins of

in captivity, kept at Dolphin Research Center in Flor-

the herd, even when her guardian Armando "Man-

ida Keys, disappeared and was declared missing

dy" Rodriguez threw fish snacks into the water and

during a hurricane in 1992. Annessa survived the

briskly clapped to encourage Annessa and Nata to

hurricane and was adopted by a herd of free living

stay close."

dolphins. She was then repeatedly seen – healthy and looking for food on her own."

The Dolphin Research Center is a dolphinarium operating under the guise of scientific research in

58

According to the Ceta Base data, Annessa escaped

Grassy Key, Florida. Here, in saltwater lagoons of

on August 23, 1992. The "perpetrator" of this event

90,000 square meters, 8 different dolphin encoun-

was Hurricane Andrew. The unusual thing is that

ters are organized daily, none of which is educa-

she survived two more hurricanes, which swept

tional or scientific-based. The Dolphin Research


planet earth

Center presents its dolphins on its website, with

nessa (NOA0004389) as a dolphin born in captivity,

only one mention of Annessa: "During a strong hur-

which has been successfully released. Annessa's

ricane, the safest option for our family of dolphins

example proves that it is not necessary to be born

can be an open ocean. They can look for shelter

in the wild to know and feel that a dolphin's place

in deeper waters away from the coastline, where

is in the ocean and not in a container of glass and

shards and strong waves can be extremely danger-

concrete or in a marine pen with humans.

ous. However, our dolphins are not familiar with the world outside their lagoons. They can easily lose their orientation and get lost. We found out about it the hard way, when our beloved Annessa went missing during Hurricane Andrew and never

References: CETA-BASE dolphin list Erin Elizabeth, How one captive-born dolphin escaped captivity and joined a wild pod?

came back. Images of our little girl who cannot find

Ken Balcomb, Cetacean Releases

her way home haunt me to this day. We need to

The United States Marine Mammal Inventory

find a way to ensure the dolphins are safe during the storm, so that we can quickly find them and bring them home when the storm is over." Contrary to the DRC's information, Ric O'Barry, a well-known dolphin welfare activist, and earlier a dolphin trainer, says the opposite: "Annessa is constantly seen between Key Largo and Tavernier." The United States Marine Mammal Inventory, on the basis of the available data, also recognizes An-

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59


from a freediver ' s perspective

A freediver's suitcase Text Agnieszka kalska

Photos piotr stĂłs

Freedivers are often said to be divers "without gear". Quite right, as they do not need any equipment to be able to dive. This does not mean, however, that we do not use any equipment‌

60


Photo Agnieszka Kalska

I

n comparison with scuba diving, the basic equip-

thermal shock. While diving using a buoy, we can

ment of a freediver includes very few elements,

also get rid of the fins and pull ourselves under-

namely: a mask and a tube, fins, a wet suit and

water using the rope or with the help of our own

weight belt with ballast. Anything else, including

hands and legs exercising breaststroke style. This

a diving computer, a buoy with a rope and a lan-

basic range of equipment, however, must be some-

yard or a knife and a torch are accessories that are

where close at hand in case of emergency or to

helpful and sometimes significantly increase safety,

attend another freediver.

but not always and not in every situation. It is in order to increase safety that freedivers use Freedivers aim to dive with as few gadgets as pos-

all this equipment. The diving computer will con-

sible. If we can, we choose the thinnest wetsuit –

firm the depth at which we are and will summa-

just enough not to get cold. That makes it possible

rize the diving time which helps to estimate the

to take a smaller amount of ballast, which we also

appropriate length of the surface interval and the

want to keep as low as possible, and gives comfort

appropriate moment of immersion of the diver's

and freedom while diving. If we dive using a rope,

attendant. A buoy and a rope with the lanyard are

we can leave the tube on the surface, and often

other elements that allows us to dive deeper and

even remove the mask and replace it with the nose

safer. However, none of the above elements will

clip, as the eyes can be closed during the entire im-

replace or provide such protection as attendance

mersion. Of course, provided that the thermocline

of a partner. So we should take a partner with us –

allows us to reveal the face and sinuses without

maybe not necessarily in the suitcase;)

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61


So what to pack into a suitcase for our freed-

without a protective layer of fabric, the chance

iving trip?

of tearing it during the whole trip is like 50:50; the glue doesen't weigh much, and the repair

●● a wet suit – our own or borrowed, but the right size – not to tight or too big, with a zipper

is very simple, so you can save a few coins in case of failure.

or hood that don't pinch us; a freediving suit will be the best, but only if it fits properly; the

What is not worth taking:

most comfortable is the one tailor-made, but you have to order one for at least 6 weeks before the trip,

●● ballast – if near the place we are going to is a diving centre, it is usually not worth carrying

●● fins – for the first training good, swimming

our own ballast, because it can cause various

pool fins are enough and easier to fit into

problems on the way; the belt itself is, how-

the suitcase; and when we dive deeper, it is

ever, light and made of rubber and as such

worth to chose longer, specialised freediving

is a much safer solution, so do not forget to

fins. They do make a difference – just how to

take it,

put them in a suitcase? I will write a few words about it below…

●● a buoy with a rope – if we are going to training with an instructor, he or she will take care

●● a mask and a tube – preferably your own and

of it, and if we are going with friends, let's

tested at least once at the swimming pool – to

think whether we will actually use it; if we

se if they fit, do not leak and whether the tube

plan to dive in places with beautiful reefs,

can be easily attached and detached,

caves and a long distance from the shore,

●● weight belt – made of rubber, special for

it may be worth focusing on recreational

freediving, because not all diving centres have

diving and take only a small inflatable signal

such to rent,

buoy; maybe there is an on-site diving cen-

●● a webcam or underwater camera – it's al-

tre that rents us in a buoy with a rope and

ways worth taking, but we must be prepared

a ballast – freediving is really quite popular

that we won't be able to take it with us into

in the world now,

water every time – this depends on the div-

●● a spare equipment – if we are travelling to

ing instructor, and sometimes on the weath-

places focused on diving tourism – it is very

er conditions,

likely that there is also a local store there, bet-

●● a cap – even if we are going to Egypt, be-

ter equipped than our "inland" stores; prices

sides a baseball cap we should also take also

are often also affordable and sometimes low-

a winter cap; why? Because it will warm our

er than in online stores with shipping costs

ears and sinuses, shielding us from the wind

included; so if we lose the tube or break the

and this will help to avoid the development

mask, we can buy a new one on the spot or

of infections of organs, which must be if full

rent it at the diving centre.

health to function efficiently during pressure equalization,

62

Everyone who dives regularly and travels a lot,

●● vitamin C – supports immunity in the first

probably has a lot of "airport" stories. I have al-

phases of infection and it is worth taking it

ready met with so many different situations that it

preventively during this trip,

is hard to say what is currently the rule. The most

●● a dive computer – if we have to take it; and if

common problem for a freediver is – what to do

not, then let's ask if someone from the team

with fins/a monofin? There is no answer to this,

takes one with them – one for a team is enough,

because there are many variables. From my own

●● neoprene glue – if we have a freediving wet-

experience I can just say: try to take with you on

suit, which is made of a delicate neoprene

plane, then we have the best chance that our be-


loved equipment will arrive in one piece with us to

Everyone who dives

the destination. You should be prepared, howev-

regularly and travels a

er, that at some point someone will not allow you to bring fins or a monofin aboard and you will be forced to give it to the baggage compartment. Pack the equipment so that it will be stiffened in some

lot, probably has a lot of "airport" stories. I have already met with so many

way. Even if we return the fins or the monofin at

different situations that

the very entrance to the plane, in some situations

it is hard to say what

we will see them only on the conveyor belt among

is currently the rule.

the registered luggage. It all depends on the airport from which we leave, and often even from the service stuff and also very

and check-in. We must be prepared for every situ-

much from the airlines. Different information may

ation, and this will save us stress, which is of course

appear at different stages of airport control points

highly unhelpful for freediving‌;)

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63


c av e s

a magical region in france Text irena kosowska

Photos Audrey Cudel

Lot and Dordogne are for us, divers, magical places in France, full of beautiful karst caves, hidden between mountains and picturesque villages, in the area of the Dordogne, Lot and Cele rivers.

64


T

his area is the cradle of French cave diving,

FONTAINE DE SAINT GEORGE

a paradise for cave divers. There are about 30

Montvalent, Lot

dive sites in this area, not always easily accessible, but certainly worth visiting.

The karst cave is located near the village of Montvalent. At the distance of about 10 meters from the

Among such a number of diving sites, each cave

entrance to the cave, the corridor takes the shape

diver will find something for themselves – from

of a low, but wide, steeply sloping passage. After

broad passages, huge corridors or wells, to tight,

reaching a depth of about 30 metres, the corridor

narrow passages and molings; from visibility com-

gets shallow and at the same time much wider. The

parable to that of the Red Sea to the vibe of omi-

ground in the cave is mostly sludgy, with rocks just

nous flooded mines or forts.

here and there.

To reach most places, we have to exercise patience

Geographic coordinates: N44,53367, E1,37137

and be fit. Not only is the way to water demanding, often requiring overcoming considerable distances

SOURCE DE LA FINOU

through fields, thickets, or dealing with dry parts

Montvalent, Lot

of caves and transporting equipment through low corridors at great distances, but also while diving

The karst is located on private premisses, and find-

we have to go fight the current of the stream or

ing it might pose some difficulties. A way through

swim towards the entrance up the river. In some

the dry bed of a stream leads us to the entrance

places, it's good to know the rope techniques – es-

lake. The lake is very small and shallow, and at its

pecially for transporting equipment.

bottom there is a small entrance to the cave. The

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65


corridor falls steeply to the depth of about 30 me-

to use the rope techniques. The entrance to the

ters. To reach the main passage we have to over-

cave itself leads through a rather narrow gap in

come a narrowing. However, the passage itself is

the bottom of the well, and a wide passage starts

spacious and stretches horizontally at a maximum

at a depth of 12 meters. With each meter passed

depth of 33 meters.

the passage lowers and widens, and the meandering corridor gets shallow reaching a depth of about

FONTAINE DU TRUFFE

10 meters, just to drop down again to 30 meters.

Lacave, Lot Geographic coordinates: N44,29263 E1,51939 The entrance to the cave leads through a small lake, with a narrowing at the bottom, but it is possible for

The cave is located on private premisses and the

divers to pass through it with a gear on their back.

latest news is that diving there has been forbidden.

The cave has two siphons, both 12–14 meters deep. Fantastic visibility prevailing in a much tighter, sec-

GOUFFRE DE LANTOUY

ond siphon, often enables taking beautiful pictures.

Saint Jean de Laur, Lot

Geographic coordinates: N44,49495 E1,33042

A cave seemingly "easy", but sometimes very treacherous. The entrance is located in a small

SOURCE DE LANDENOUSE

lake at the depth of about 8 meters. The passage

Cadrieu, Lot

descends steeply, low and wide, and the silt-gravel floor causes quick loss of visibility when the wa-

66

The entrance at the outflow of the Landenouse

ter is stirred. Especially below the 25th meter we

stream is unusual, taking the form of a large rec-

encounter narrowings, with quicksand, where it's

tangular well. The descent down the ladder is about

very easy to lose visibility. The maximum depth of

5 meters and to lower the equipment it is good

the corridor is 50 meters, but it is necessary to be


caves

well prepared for diving due to frequently occur-

place of entering the water. The entrance to the

ring strong current or reverse current turbulence.

cave is large, as is the corridor for the first 150 meters. At 170th metre the cave diverges, the main

TROU MADAME

passage running straight leads to the deep part,

Cenevieres, Lot

while the main corridor stays shallow, at a depth of about 12 meters. In the main corridor, on 22nd me-

The direction towards the cave is marked on the

tre, we find a huge well, whose depth increases with

clearing – a large stone with an arrow and a path

each threshold reaching the corridor at the 50th

next to it. This path leads to the cave entrance. From

metre and extending to a depth of 80 meters. The

the stone you have to go through the forest and

shallower corridor ends with a vertical gap that con-

along the bottom of the stream some 200 m slightly

nects to the main passage at a depth of 24 meters.

upwards. A huge entrance of the cave will be visible. The beginning of the first siphon is at a distance

Geographic coordinates: N44,33713 E1,46327

of about 50 meters inside the cave. The corridor is wide but very low, so it causes some transport

GOUFFRE DE CABOUY

problems. The water is usually very transparent.

Rocamadour, Lot

The maximum depth of the cave is 17 meters. A large Caboua karst, in which a path to the water Geographic coordinates: N44,27120 E1,45110

leads through the bushes, is a heavily overgrown lake with steeply falling walls. The entrance to the

EMERGENCE DU RESSEL

cave is a huge opening at about 20th metre. The

Marcilhac-sur-Cele, Lot

passage descends steeply to a depth of about 33 meters; a big corridor with huge spaces gives

The opening of the cave is located at the bottom

the opportunity to admire huge boulders on the

of the river, about 50 meters up the river from the

floor. The average depth of the corridor is about

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

67


20 meters. About 900 meters from the entrance we

The location and logistics of dive sites is often not

reach the Gouffre de Poumayssen opening.

obvious, so it is best to go with a good, experienced guide for the first time.

GOUFFRE DE POUMAYSSEN

Rocamadour, Lot

It's a good idea to choose Gramat for the base, because most caves are located within a radius of

A path leading to a rock wall runs from the Cabouy

20–30 km from this place. There is no problem with

karst east. At the foot of this wall there is a small

access to equipment or gas filling.

lake. It's Poumayssen. The entrance lake is actually a hole in the ceiling of the cave. If we go down

Apart from diving, it is worth visiting other beautiful

from here, we will reach the Caboua karst. If we

places in the region, such as the town in the rock –

go up – we will see that the depth is a dozen or

Rocamadour, or taste French wine and cheese.

so meters, and the cave slowly gets deeper, up to about 20 meters. The passage will be still wide. The

Anyone who has dived once in the caves of the Lot

Cabouy/ Poumayssem system is at least 2 km long.

region will definitely want to return there.

Sources: https://cave-diving.pl/ http://www.lotcavediving.eu Andrew Ward, Underwater Guide to the Lot & Dordogne France

68



wrecks

70


Plan your Um El Faroud diving in Malta

Text and photos Hubert Borg

The Um El Faroud is one of the Mediterranean’s most popular wreck dives and one of the top 5 best selling dive sites in Malta. Awesome in size (10,000 tons!), yet accessible from the shore in most conditions. In 1998, it was sunk following a tragic accident during a refit that killed 9 dock workers. It now provides a challenging site in what has become one of Europe’s premier wreck diving locations.

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71


Wreck history

The diving community chose Wied iz-Zurrieq as the

Um El Faroud was built in 1969 at Smith Dock Com-

best site to accommodate this vessel. An impact

pany in Middlesborough (England) and was owned

assessment was carried out over the seabed, and

by the General National Maritime Transport Com-

the site was marked. On the 2nd of September

pany in Tripoli. It had been operating between It-

1998 Um El Faroud was towed out off the Grand

aly and Libya carrying refined fuel up to the 1st

Harbour towards its final destination. After the ship

of February 1995. On the 3rd of February 1995 it

was anchored on location, Um El Faroud sank after

was docked at Malta dry docks. Nine workers were

nearly a four-hour wait for the ship to fill up with

working on the Um El Faroud, when a massive ex-

sea water from 8 purposely fitted 4” sea valves. This

plosion late in the evening rocked three cities and

scene was witnessed by thousands of people.

cast Malta into mourning. The explosion is believed to have been caused by an accumulation of gas.

Wreck location

Today the Um El Faroud wreck can be found in

72

The vessel suffered structural deformation and

Wied iz-Zurrieq, near Qrendi. It is 110 metres long,

following inspection was considered a total write-

it weighs 10,000 tons, the beam is 15.50 metres and

off. It had been occupying this dock ever since the

the height of the vessel from the keel to the funnel

explosion until it was decided that the best option

top is approximately 22 metres with a maximum

to utilize its remaining value was to scuttle her as

depth of 36 meters. This site is dived most when

a diving attraction and to start her new life as an

other sites are dangerous, since it is sheltered by

artificial reef.

the valley of Wied iz-Zurrieq.


wrecks

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74


wrecks

Wreck diving

The wreck is dived mostly from shore, specifically from a small jetty just down from Wied iz-Zurrieq. Divers need to swim out about 150 m at a bearing of 240° whilst watching out for boat traffic. A sur-

For divers keen on wreck penetration the Um El Faroud offers

face swim can be very tiring here, so descending

a lot of passages with

down a few meters may be an easier option. This

relatively easy exits.

swim can considerably reduce available time to explore the wreck itself, so multiple dives, a twinset or enriched gas mix are advised, if you want to explore the wreck in its entirety.

exits. Such passages include the bridge hatches, cabins and galleys, hatches on the hull just below

The bearing will point you towards the stern of the

deck and for the more adventurous, stairs down to

wreck, which in good visibility can be an amazing

the engine room, a shaft that goes straight down

sight as it comes into view. The intact propeller and

from behind the chimney right to the engine room,

rudder can be found at a depth of 36 m and is an

and a passage from the engine room to a frontal

ideal photo opportunity, the deck level is around

compartment which leads above deck and out of

25 m and begins with the bridge superstructure.

the bridge front. The holds are easily accessible

For divers keen on wreck penetration the Um El

following the blast that wrenched open the deck

Faroud offers a lot of passages with relatively easy

when the vessel was still in the docks.

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75


As the ship is so big, you can easily lose track of time. Therefore, regular checks on your remaining deco time and air consumption are required!

Just forward of the bridge superstructure the wreck has split in half during November storms in 2006. This now makes the wreck a much more interesting dive, as it offers much easier access into the forward holds. The forward half is now twisted around 20° north towards the shore, and the area in between the two sections is prone to strong currents. Reaching the bow you'll find a raised deck with access into the bow, which can be exited by heading straight forward and vertically up a ladder shaft onto the bow deck, making a nice swim through. The bow itself has a large anchor winch and mooring bollards, another common photo spot for visiting divers. Divers might come across some squid and barracudas at the stern. The port side is usually teeming

76


a d v e r t i s eme n t

with large schools of sea breams, parrotfish and silversides. Sometimes one can come across the occasional scorpion fish, amberjack and tuna. The wreck can be entered fairly easily, but due to its size, this should be restricted only to divers with advanced wreck diving training. As the ship is so big, you can easily lose track of time. Therefore, regular checks on your remaining deco time and air consumption are required! After leaving the wreck you might come across some strong current opposite direction, so make sure you have enough air for your return to the shore.

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planet earth

a sexy diver, is it possible? Text Margita „Mermaid” Ślizowska Photos Wiktor zdrojewski

Diving and taking care of the looks? What does one thing have to do with the other?

I

s that what you think? Men, perhaps think exactly

Recently I heard a friend say with dismay: "And

this, but ladies…  After all, nearly everyone wants

again, we put on those horrible clothes, in which

to look good and feel comfortable in pleasant mo-

you can't feel either slim or sexy." I looked at her

ments of one's life, right? So, if you think about

with curiosity and saw a nice, neat and… sexy girl.

it, taking into account aesthetics in diving makes

Absolute denial of what she had just mentioned.

a lot of sense. And it certainly is not pointless. The

After all, sexiness is not only a shapely figure of

widely understood "aesthetics" is not an obstacle

a fitness or crossfit fanatic. Sexiness comes mainly

compromising mastering our diving skills nor it re-

from our interior – no diving undersuit can spoil

duces our mental or physical ability underwater.

this "something". So, ladies and gentlemen, let's do

What's more, it can make us feel even more confi-

it. Do not let your being a scuba diver deprive you

dent while being a well-trained diver. Especially in

of your charm, aesthetic appearance and a sense

a situation when we are unexpectedly charmed by

of psychophysical comfort.

someone's joyous eyes. Or when we meet on land

78

someone, with whom we would like to get a closer

Here are a few short and practical tips on the sub-

and spend longer moment in our life…

ject to keep in mind… Nails. Clipped short and pro-


tected with conditioner or hybrid nail polish (for ladies). Hangnails. Greased – protected against cracking. Hair. Combed, stapled, with moisturized endings. Protected by a diving hood. Hands. Protected with diving gloves and after the dive moisturized with a hand cream. Face. Cleaned after diving and moisturized with cream. Body. Properly hydrated (isotonic drinks). Mask. Made of opaque silicone – concealing the physiological secretions from the nose and sinuses. There is also another subject I have to mention, unfortunately. It touches us not only in the context of diving – but also in public transport on hot days… Remember that diving underwear, warmers and socks should also be washed, dried and ventilated. The fact that this wardrobe serves us mostly underwater – does not exempt us from this obligation. Don’t let yourselves "change" over the weekend from elegant and well-groomed people into messy and smelly diving "beasts". Let the deodorant not be our abandoned friend of a previous weekday… Finally, half-joking and half-serious… Makeup. And why not? More than one woman feels uncomfort-

able with no makeup. Dear Ladies, scuba diving doesn't have to deprive us of this little luxury. But let's use waterproof products and put them in moderation. So that after getting out of water our make-up does not flow down with picturesque streaks from under the mask, turning into a "repellent"… How about permanent make-up…? To sum up: Dear diving Ladies and Gentlemen: even if you have planned your dive in the smallest details and performed it perfectly, you cannot predict one thing. You cannot predict the Amor's Arrow, which can be waiting for you under the shade of the equipment assembly table, when you pour talcum powder into the cuff, while you struggle putting on new fins with too-tight springs, or when you struggle trying to turn the neck seal in the dry suit. Make sure that your habits related to aesthetics and hygiene will not make you unpleasant surprises when a Beautiful Brunette gives you a dive computer you forgot from your dive box, or when the Handsome Blond will offer you to rinse the mask that you have just splashed… After all, everything can be done with class and grace. Especially if we have adopted some useful habits before…

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planet earth

Not so scary as it is seems Text Agata Turowicz

Photo Adam Deco

W

hile diving in the Baltic Sea, we most often

fish, attacking its victims unexpectedly. In the Baltic

admire sunken shipwrecks, but hardly any-

Sea it reaches a length of up to 30 cm, however,

one knows that a real monster hides in the wrecks

in the North Sea you can meet much larger indi-

or between stones: the shorthorn sculpin itself.

viduals, even up to one meter long. If you happen

Myoxocephalus Scorpius, as it is its Latin name, it is

to meet a fisherman who fished the sculpin out

a unique fish, beautiful in its ugliness. It is a cousin

of water, it is worth approaching and listening to

of a red scorpionfish (Scorpaena scrofa), common

the sounds it produces. Some say that the charac-

in the Mediterranean Sea, and of a tassled scor-

teristic buzzing is aimed at scaring off a potential

pionfish (Scorpaenopsis oxycephala) inhabiting the

enemy. However, this is probably just a side effect

Red Sea.

of getting rid of excess air from the mouth through the gill covers (operculum).

The shorthorn sculpin is a predatory fish, with

80

a characteristic large head, on top and sides of

In spring, summer and autumn, the shorthorn

which are even sharp "horns". The body of this

sculpins have a grey-brown colour and hide in the

fish is covered with smooth skin without scales. It

apertures of the Baltic Sea bottom. In the winter,

lives at the bottom, surrounded by rocks, stones

however, the shorthorn sculpin becomes a real star

and underwater structures. It feeds on small fish,

of the underwater world, wandering to a depth of

crustaceans and molluscs. It is a very voracious

about 20–30 meters. In December its mating sea-


Photo SKNO

son begins meaning a real festival of colours. During spawning the belly and the lower part of the male's body takes on a very intense, orange colour that cannot be overlooked. This means that even untrained divers will certainly notice its presence. What is more, males of this species are extraordinary fathers. From the moment the spawn is laid, until the young hatch out, the male is guarding his offspring sitting motionless in the nest. This is the best moment for all divers to look at it carefully from all sides. Even a large number of air bubbles and close presence of a human being are not able to scare him away, thanks to which he becomes Photo SKNO

a grateful object for photographing. The next time you explore the Baltic wrecks, look around to see this amazing and unique fish.

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

81


n at u r e

Western reef heron 82


Heron

the Waterside Gentility

Text and photos wojciech jarosz

Everything herons do, they do with flair or even grace (though sometimes, seemingly, somewhat heavily), whether they hunt, rest or fly, slowly flapping their wings. The impression of gracefulness give them, primarily, their well-known, slim silhouettes (although there are also herons with a slightly more chunky built). Their gentility, however, should not be perceived as unequivocal with the lack of agility – when they find their prey, they attack instantly.

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

83


Grey heron

H

erons are birds naturally associated with

end of the nineteenth century, a group of women,

both, fresh- and seawater. Being ardent pis-

a United Kingdom citizens, recognized such use

civores, they look for food in water. They do not

of birds as unethical and established in their own

ignore other vertebrates (small mammals, birds,

circle that it could not continue. So they founded

amphibians and reptiles) or invertebrates (eg. ar-

an organization actively fighting the fashion for

thropods, molluscs), but fish is always their first

any ornaments derived from birds. This initiative

choice. Their love for fish meat (actually, not only

finally evolved (we are tempted to say "hatched")

meat, as herons swallow the whole fish, and what

into the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds. The

they cannot digest, they get rid of in the form

Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, RSPB is

of pellets) does not make them popular among

one of the largest organizations of this kind in the

anglers, and certainly not among the owners of

world today. Fortunately, it turns out that the suf-

fishponds. Pescivorousness of herons, together

fering of the heron in the past times did not go into

with their not quite 100% hunting efficiency end-

vain – the birds living now on the Islands (and not

ing sometimes in lacerations of a would-be prey,

only there) can count on over a million members

has caused a conflict of interest, which resulted

of the society involved in their protection.

in significant declines in the number of many her-

84

on populations. In Poland, unfortunately, it is still

A heron can be easily distinguished from other

quite easy to get permission to hunt grey heron

wading long-legged birds by observing it during

(Ardea cinerea) within the fishponds. Historically,

flying. It is during the flight that these birds ar-

there was one more reason for shooting these

range their necks in a characteristic shape, unlike

birds. Their feathers were eagerly used to deco-

cranes or storks which fly fully erect, as if they swal-

rate garments, in particular women's hats. At the

lowed a broomstick. Herons lay their necks as if


nature

Little egret

they swallowed an eel at the most, which, by the

popcorn, but it happened also that herons lured

way, happens to them from time to time. It's as if

the fish using dragonflies they had caught, piec-

they folded their necks for the time of the journey.

es of sticks or even their own feathers. What adds

Should that suggest that they don't need such long

spice to these observations is the fact that they

necks? Quite to the contrary, they use this part of

were made in different parts of the world (both

the body efficiently while hunting. Instead of en-

Americas, Asia, the Pacific Islands), both for birds

gaging the whole body in the attack hitting the fish

in contact with a man and for birds living in natu-

under the surface of the water, they shoot only

ral ecosystems, where they could not see people

a sharp beak – like a chameleon its tongue. The

feeding ducks with bread. An interesting technique

folded neck straightens up like a spring, providing

is used by the little egret (Egretta Garzetta), which

high speed and precision throughout the opera-

uses its own toes to lure the fish. These toes are yel-

tion. During hunting, herons can patiently wait for

low, while the part called tarsometatarsus is black.

the most appropriate moment. Sometimes they

Perhaps, by natural selection, this feature has been

even use a bait, and this is a kind of behaviour

preserved in this species by favouring in the race

classified as “a use of tool�. The birds in certain

to transfer the genes these individuals with a more

situations, therefore, turn out to be quite bright

eye catching colours of their toes as being more

compared to other vertebrates, which should make

effective hunters. An extraordinary behaviour dur-

us think twice the next time we want to use the

ing hunting demonstrates the African black heron.

term "birdbrain" to summarize someone's lack of

It spreads the wings like an umbrella or a cloak to

intelligence. Representatives of at least nine spe-

create a shadow that attracts fish used to hide from

cies of herons were observed to use a bait during

attackers under the overhangs of banks or trees.

fishing. Sometimes these were pieces of bread or

For those with more imaginative mind, a hunting

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

85


The Ardeidae family (Ardeidae) belongs to the Pelecaniformes and consists of 62 species. In the past there were more families but five species are considered extinct.

black heron can also resemble a classic lampshade in the Batman's favourite colour, and for lovers of the adventures of Baltazar Gabka (a Polish cartoon) it looks like mysterious Don Pedro, a spy from The Raincoats Land. Herons hunt during the day, with the exception of the black-crowned night heron. These medium-sized herons with stocky bodies took their name from a crow-like croak on the one hand and from their nocturnal lifestyle on the other. The Latin generic name Nycticorax means the night crow, and the Polish name stems from the suspicion that throughout the day the bird remains hidden because it is blind. The night herons do fly off from their hiding places to the feeding grounds in the evening, but while feeding the nestlings they also look for food during the day. Night herons that seek food during the day can also be found in rainy weather. In the beliefs of the Slavs, due to their night activity, the night herons acted as guides between the worlds of the living and the dead – the so-called psychopomps, like Hermes in the Greek or Valkyries in the Norse mythology. The Ardeidae family (Ardeidae) belongs to the Pelecaniformes and consists of 62 species. In the past there were more families but five species are considered extinct. Morphological diversity is quite large, because the largest of the family, the Goliath heron (Ardea Goliath) has a mass of approx. 4–5 kg and wingspan up to 230 cm, while one of the smallest – the little bittern (Ixobrychus minutus) weights only 60–150 g with the 40–60 cm wingspan. The little bittern can be found in Poland, and the Goliath heron lives by the Red Sea or in the West Africa. When it comes to the body built, an interesting example is certainly the boat-billed heron (CochleariGoliath heron

86

us Cochlearius). It is a Central- and South American


nature

Striated heron

heron resembling the silhouette of night herons

predators, including men. Most herons simply run

(medium-sized, shorter with quite thick neck),

away, but when they are driven into a corner, they

which is equipped with a beak of a unique shape.

can defend themselves. They use their beak as

In English, the name of this bird is a boat-billed

a dagger and try to stab the invader, most often

heron, which quiet well illustrates the shape of a

aiming at the eyes (so watch out!). There are more

flattened beak, the upper part of which looks like a

interesting facts about the built and behaviour of

boat with its keel turned upside down. Hunting for

herons. The great bittern (Botaurus stellaris), for ex-

small fish, amphibians and invertebrates among

ample, does not fold its neck during the flight, has

the adventitious roots and pneumatophores of

short legs and, what's more, gives a booming call

trees forming mangroves, the so-called boat-billed

in the reeds. The bittern’s calls are very character-

heron performs perfectly thanks to this very beak.

istic, because they resemble the sound of blowing

This bird is also characterized by quite unique, as

into an empty bottle and they do carry far away.

fore heron, behaviour. Defending its nest, the bird

The best imitation of the bittern sound is produced

becomes aggressive and actively fights against

by blowing at an angle, from under the upper lip,

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

87


Grey heron

like a duck. Its name is related to the characteristic

(…) when they are driven into a corner, they can defend themselves. They use their beak as a dagger

whistling. You could write a whole novel about the noises herons make, as there are far more of them than the mentioned above great bittern or whistling heron. I encourage you to visit the xeno-canto. org site, where fans of eavesdropping on birds post

and try to stab the invader,

their recordings. It is a real treasure trove of birds’

most often aiming at the

sounds from all over the world.

eyes (so watch out!).

In Poland and Central Europe, you can meet the grey heron, the, more and more often breeding here, white heron (Ardea alba), the night heron

88

into a half-liter glass bottle – which was tested by

(Nycticorax nycticorax), the great bittern and the

the author; sometimes it happened that the bit-

little bittern. With a bit of luck, in the season you

terns reacted to this kind of imitation. As a rule, it

can meet the purple heron (Ardea purpurea), the

is easier to hear the bittern than to see it, because

little egret and the cattle egret (Bubulcus ibis), al-

it is not very active during the day, and it has a

though these are just guests from the south. The

perfect camouflage – it's impossible to see it when

last of these species appreciates a lot the closeness

it stands among reeds with its beak raised up to

to large herbivores mammals, in the presence of

resemble the reed. The whistling heron (Syrigma

which it is easier to hunt for insects. At the mouth

sibilatrix), similarly to the great bittern, also has its

of the Rhône River in the south of France, on the

neck outstretched during flight. And as for a her-

Camargue backwaters, you can easily spot the cat-

on, it flies strangely, because it flaps its wings not

tle egret sitting on white horses. Look out for her-

with a slow dignity, but quickly and nervously, more

ons, they are beautiful birds!


Great egret

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89


k n ow l e dg e

#whywedoit The deep blue attracts, calls and invites us to explore it, but the calling is different for each of us. Everyone feels and experiences it in a different way.

90


W

e are all unique in looking for the sense and

oceans… We can find among them diving instruc-

the reasons why we dive. That is why some

tors, freedivers, sculptors, doctors, glacier research-

time ago an idea for a campaign was born, in which

ers… and all of them have their own stories, the

divers can share their motivations and experienc-

paths they have gone to be where they are now. All

es – a DAN campaign called #whywedoit.

stories can be viewed at https://wwdi.daneurope.org/

In this movement, we celebrate and inspire divers

When I found out about the campaign, I asked my-

from around the world. #Whywedoit ambassadors

self why I actually dive. The first answers that came

talk about themselves, about their own experience of

to my mind may seem trivial – calmness, silence,

passion. They share achievements, the great and the

the beauty of nature, communing with the ocean…

small ones. They show us their everyday work, which

but when we want to get to the bottom, to the bot-

is their passion, or they rather show us their passion

tom of our own sense of passion, there is more

which is at the same time their work. DAN Europe

to it – in any case, there is more than the answers

with a camera is looking for answers to the question

given by any diver contain.

what "being a diver" means to different people, trying to get to the bottom of the search for the answer to

The path that I have gone is not a typical one. May-

the question: Why are we doing it? Diving is a beau-

be because I am a perfectionist, and I put my whole

tiful passion, and in the #whywedoit campaign, each

body into everything I do. It started by accident,

of us can share his or her own answer.

on a holiday intro, after which the instructor said – "You will come back here again". And I was back.

DAN #whywedoit ambassadors are very different

From that moment I have come back constantly

people – diving safely, loving water, caring for the

and to still new places, but also to the same and

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

91


92


wiedza

favourite ones, because underwater you can have your own piece of the ground. It started with trainings, many trainings, continuous improvement. I met many wonderful teachers on my way, and each of them opened my eyes to things I did not know yet. Recently, one of my instructors has called me a "cave cat" – I think that today it is the essence of what gives me the most joy. I started in the green of lakes, the incomparable emerald of the Baltic Sea, then I continued in the blue of the oceans ending in the depths of flooded mines and caves. Today, that is what I love most – closed space, rock drilled for hundreds of years by flowing water, showing its power most vividly. Constant dripping wears the stone, rivers dig out tunnels and cave corridors, some of which can be admired only by us – divers. Today, still going this way, I combine my passion with work. I take care of spreading the rules of safe diving, I try to be a divers' diver, an adviser for those who ask questions. I hope that together we will join the European movement #whywedoit – for each of us finds something different in diving.

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

93


events

Diving Festival of Power Text jakub cieślak

Photos anna bogacińska

At

the beginning there was just Tomek with one

going to touch it. After diving, you just drop equip-

brand of lighting and heating systems pow-

ment, hang up your suit and you can go for a deli-

ering, and an idea how to promote this brand. Div-

cious dinner right away. A perfect place.

ing Festival of Power. The event is another version,

94

extension or supplement to the Diving Farewell to

The first editions of the festival focused on one

Summer, a cyclical event organized by divers from

brand of equipment and were organised for clos-

Olsztyn. Everything, however, revolved around one

er and further acquaintances of the host, Tomek.

place – Kulki, and more specifically, the "Nemo in

These were rather low-key meetings based on sim-

Kulka" centre located at Łęsk Lake near Szczytno.

ple invitation: come to Kulka, let's dive together, test

A centre is hidden among trees, cut off from civili-

this equipment and have a drink in the evening. But

zation. Two steps to the lake and a beautiful view of

when Tomek started the subject with me, we were

the lake stretching from the panoramic windows of

talking about something a little more serious and

the dining room in the centre. So you can come in,

official. The elements of the Festival have evolved,

take your urban layer off yourself and along with

presentations, lectures and demonstrations have

the car keys throw it somewhere in a dark nook, as

been added, we started to invite interesting peo-

you are not going to use it all weekend. Everything

ple. Other suppliers of equipment to be tested ap-

you need is here or not far away. Diving equipment

peared. It started from the leading manufacturer of

is left under a tent and can stay there, no one is

dry suits, then more brands joined and finally the


event opened wide to the entire industry. The only criterion for selecting and inviting the supplier was a wide concept of power – the tested equipment should be "powered" – it has to be an electrically powered device: starting from diving computers, through powered heating sets, batteries for them and ending with lighting all sorts. Among the guests we had the pleasure of announcing people like Marcin Bramson, Kamil Iwankiewicz, Michał Kosut, Igor Nicolaos and Piotr Piórewicz. A very interesting formula was the discussion panel, in the first edition of which Kuba Janowicz and Piotr Piórewicz discussed the use of heating systems by recreation-

fact that suppliers participate on equal terms with

al divers. Concluding the fourth edition in 2017, we

divers-guests in the whole event organized for

were already planning another one feeling that we

the weekend, builds unique atmosphere. There

were going the right direction.

are many opportunities to talk with users, to integrate, build relationships, exchange opinions and

We opened the event on Friday. We did not plan any

comments on both sides. So the scooters, lighting

official events of that day – most guests left for the

and heating set off to work under water and the

festival after work, we expected them rather late

divers emptied the tables from the equipment to

in the evening. Late dinner and drinking a pint of

be tested.

beer together, or a cup of tasty mulled wine next to a fireplace radiating a pleasant warmth, was a per-

In the afternoon was time for lectures, presenta-

fect introduction to a charming weekend away from

tions and entertainment. The equipment of most

civilization. And as the guests were arriving until

divers was drying under the tents, the cylinders

midnight, conversations which seemed to have no

were being filled, the batteries were charging, and

end took place in the circles of friends forming here

the divers were resting. After dinner there was time

and there. In the morning, the next day the festival

to relax and to "feed" our souls.

began. Immediately after breakfast the equipment to be tested appeared in the main hall. Divers be-

The first speaker was fantastic Kamil Iwankiewicz.

gan to appear unhurriedly and select offers. What

An extraordinary character, a true volcano of en-

quickly caught my eye was a completely different

thusiasm and an incredibly interesting storyteller.

relationship between suppliers and divers. It's rath-

Once Kamil led a project "Crown of the Lakes of the

er elusive, but I got the impression that the very

Earth" (of which he was also the main performer),

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

95


assigned for this part. It was impossible to resist

Piotr showed us how to deal with many common problems using such specialized "service tools" as water, dishwashing liquid and vinegar.

the magic of his stories about places inaccessible to most mortals. We could also see that Kamil has a huge theoretical and practical knowledge, which allowed him to prepare well for diving at altitudes quite absurd from the point of view of the average recreational diver. The magnitude of challenges waiting for those who plan such diving is downright overwhelming, starting from such trifle as the

within which he had to dive in all the highest locat-

amount of ballast – three times greater than for

ed lakes on the entire globe. The project was inter-

the same suit used at "normal" heights – and how

rupted for personal reasons, but Kamil managed to

to transport it to the top. Those performing after

dive into several magical places and he has been

Kamil had a really tough task, but they got the best

talking about it for several years now. I myself had

out of it.

the pleasure of listening to Kamil for the first time

96

in Baltictech and I found that he is a gifted story-

Karolina Jakóbczak appeared on the stage. Karo-

teller, fantastically talking about the things he saw

lina is a deaf person. Of course, she is an active

and felt. I remember the first time I contacted him

diver with extensive experience. Karolina, how-

to ask if he would like to join the group of speakers

ever, is not a mute person, and additionally she

during our first event in Kulka. I was quite anxious

can read lip movements and is also a volcano of

and I expected everything, but not that Kamil would

positive energy. She introduced us into the world

get fired up for the idea in three seconds and ac-

of deaf divers with a sense of humour and zest,

cept my invitation without any special resistance.

showed how such diving looks from their point

During this edition of the festival, Kamil focused on

of view, how deaf people can enrich diving and

the issues of planning mountain dives. Although

how to approach diving with such people. Virtually

the topic was not easy and of course there were still

everyone had a great time during the lecture of

threads and photos from the presentation about

Karolina, who made the audience interact. I hope

the Crown of the Earth Lakes, neither me nor peo-

that I'm not betraying now Kamil by saying that

ple who had already listened to Kamil, were bored

he was still present on a considerable part of this

at the new presentation and it didn't bother anyone

presentation, which he liked so much that he

that Kamil exceeded significantly the time frame

stayed longer, though he had told me earlier he


przyroda

was supposed to run back home. Karolina showed

and distance towards everything. His task was

us how the rich sign language can improve the

to bring us a bit closer to the subject of servicing

way of communication underwater. What's more,

diving equipment with focus on a few specific de-

she corrected our erroneous assumption that sign

tails and elements of the diving equipment. A dry

language is an international language – it turns

suit, it would seem – virtually maintenance-free:

out that virtually every nation has its own sign

put on, take off, grease at the most a zipper and

language, hence it is not at all obvious that two

dry well. If something happens, take it to service

deaf divers from different parts of the world will

and that's it. And yet, it turned out that we can do

get along immediately during the dive. Neverthe-

a lot ourselves, and the best we can do is counter-

less, being a partner of a deaf person has many

acting various phenomena and processes that will

advantages. Deaf people are extremely sensitive

naturally lead to a failure. Piotr showed us how

to all visual stimuli and certainly faster spot a lot

to deal with many common problems using such

of curiosities that would usually be passed unno-

specialized "service tools" as water, dishwashing

ticed. At the end, Karolina introduced us to the ba-

liquid and vinegar. Well, it will also be useful to use

sic principles of communication with deaf people,

some simple dental tools stolen from a dentist's

which was rewarded with thunderous applause (of

office, but these can also be replaced by something

course in the sign version).

more common.

Immediately after Karolina, Piotr Piórewicz entered

The official part of the festival was finished. Piotr

the stage. Piotr comes from the Tri-City, so he is

was the last speaker, the time of dinner was ap-

a very experienced wreck diver, a diving instruc-

proaching, and then only the time for integration

tor, a specialist in servicing diving equipment and

and diving talks on different subjects was planned

a born storyteller with a great sense of humour

until late at night.

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

97


The crowning of the evening was the concert of

nent representatives of our diving world. I only al-

"Grom" i.e. Tomek Paciorek. Tomek performs

low myself here to thank Irena Stangierska, whose

mostly shanties, which might seem a strange

beautiful calendars went again to several happy

choice for a concert for divers. Tomek, however,

participants of our festival.

very quickly found a common language with the audience, skilfully choosing his repertoire, colour-

And just a brief summary. Despite the rather ex-

ing his concert with various anecdotes often as-

treme outdoor weather, the festival again excited

sociated with diving. It's enough to say that it was

tremendous interest. However, we have an appe-

very funny, hearty and loud evening. The most per-

tite for more. Hence the idea that the next edition

severant participants of Saturday's fun held Tomek

will take place earlier – in October. We would like to

up until late at night, snuggled down around the

have diving conditions allowing enjoying diving not

fireplace, falling into a nostalgic mood every now

only the hard-core maniacs, but also more mod-

and then.

erate recreational divers. Perhaps a milder aura will allow us to plan more outdoor events. I real-

98

And I could finish the report from the fifth Diving

ly would like the event to maintain its less formal

Festival Power, as the next morning before noon

formula and to be treated more as a form of inte-

was a repetition of the testing part, although the

gration of clubs, diving centres and independent

turnout among the divers was much lower (for

divers, on the occasion of which it is possible to test

reasons incomprehensible to me…), but I should

some equipment and listen to some interesting lec-

mention the awards that were funded by both, the

tures. I hope that this year we will meet in Kulka in

suppliers present at the festival, and other promi-

October to feel this power together.



events

3rd Warsaw Seminar on Underwater Archaeology 17th–18th January 2019, University of Warsaw

Text małgorzata mileszczyk

Photos magdalena sugalska

The life cycle of an archaeologist? Loads of paperwork, far less fieldwork, some analyses, and back to the office – both to work on further grant proposal and to conclude the season or project with the thesis, article or monograph. The latter might and should be interrupted by the participation in the very enjoyable social meetings. Those we call the conferences, basically to mislead ourselves.

100


Photo Jakub Stępnik

O

bviously, the conference does not happen in

stirred our imagination with the research pro-

the instant, it has to be prepared in detail by

ject as deep as 1000 meters, Professors Finn Ole

some poor guys called the Organization Commit-

Nielsen and M. Nicolas Caretta from the Bornholm

tee, thank you very much. Secondly, there is also

Archaeological Research Center of the Bornholm

a group of prominent and influential scholars, who

Museum, who have presented the secrets of the

agree to watch over the proper level of the pres-

Bornholm’s underwater heritage and, last but not

entations, papers and discussions (we would like to

least, the most experienced underwater archaeol-

extend our deepest gratitude to the best Scientific

ogist of eastern Europe – Professor Vladas Žulkus

Committee). Thirdly – and probably most impor-

from Klaipėda University, talking about the Lithu-

tantly – a conference needs keen Participants. Dar-

anian expeditions at the Baltic Sea. Our beloved

ing, skilful and… captivating. Stir, shake a bit… and

guests arrived from as far as Senegal and Taiwan,

we have a perfect recipe for a fruitful and inspiring

and as close as Szczecin, Gdańsk and Toruń. Euro-

time, during which the ideas are exchanged, ap-

pean underwater research was represented by the

plauded and criticized, the hypotheses discussed,

colleagues from Iceland, Greece, Montenegro, Italy,

the hard work rewarded.

Ukraine and Slovakia. The topics were organized in four panels, truly covering most continents!

What took place at the University of Warsaw this year was a top level experience, especially due

The conference was the third of the name, becom-

to our dear guests and great archaeologists. First

ing the biannual event in the field, the only one in

and foremost, the keynote speakers: Professor Iván

Poland reaching international level. It was a pleas-

Negueruela Martínez form the Museo Nacional de

ure receiving such celebrities and good friends in

Arqueología Subacuática in Cartagena, who has

Warsaw; we hope that all the Participants, including

perfectdiver No. 1(3)/2019

101


the audience, had a great time. Now it is time to get

„3rd Warsaw Seminar on Underwater Archaeol-

back to our studies so that the next volume of the

ogy” – the conference was possible due to the funding

excellent monograph (series “U” of “Światowit” pe-

from the Polish Ministry of Science and Higher Educa-

riodical) might be published, including the articles

tion (959/P-DUN/2018) as well as the Vice-Rector of the

of the Seminar speakers.

University of Warsaw and the Director of the Institute of Archaeology, University of Warsaw.

Hereby we are pleased to invite you to the 4th edition of the Seminar, which will take place in

It was patronaged by His Magnificence Rector of

Warsaw in January 2021! More information soon,

the University of Warsaw, Professor Marcin Pałys.

please follow us on Facebook (Archeologia Podwodna Underwater Expedition Instytut Archeologii

Head of Scientific Committee: dr hab. Bartosz

UW) and our website http://underwaterexpedition.

Kontny, prof. UW

uw.edu.pl/3rd-warsaw-seminar-on-underwater-archaeology/

Scientific Committee: dr hab. Radosław Karasiewicz-Szczypiorski, prof. dr hab. Iwona Modrze-

We are also most grateful to the Polish Chapter

wska-Pianetti, dr hab. Waldemar Ossowski, prof.

of The Explorers Club, which was of a great assis-

UG, dr hab. Andrzej Pydyn, prof. dr hab. Mari-

tance during the organizing process! Thank You,

usz Ziółkowski

and apologies for any inconvenience! Organizing

Aleksandra

Chołuj,

Małgorzata Mileszczyk, Magdalena Nowakowska,

Museum of Diving in Warsaw. Thank You, you are

Artur Brzóska

the best!

102

Committee:

As always, we were supported by the one and only


Nurku!

Nie lekceważ bólu mięśni, stawów i kości.

Dla nas jesteś najważniejszy. Umów się na wizytę ze specjalistą 616 281 181

www.rehasport.pl



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Articles inside

A Magical Region in France

5min
pages 64-69

Diving on Um El Faroud

5min
pages 70-77

3rd Warsaw Seminar on Underwater Archaeology

3min
pages 100-102

Escape from Alcatraz

5min
pages 56-59

Toyapakeh Nusa Penida

2min
pages 52-55

A freediver's suitcase

5min
pages 60-63

Lembeh Island

7min
pages 40-51

A Sexy Diver. Is It Possible?

3min
pages 78-79

Fiji, kingdom of sharks

8min
pages 32-39

The Foreword

1min
page 3

Archaeological Park BAIAE

12min
pages 20-31

Last Maya Bastion

9min
pages 10-19
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