Perfect Diver Magazine 4 issue

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Before your eyes is a new issue of the Magazine.

We have introduced new sections Tips & curiosities and Professional diving. Reliable knowledge, practice and minimisation of errors. Moreover, everything told with humor and in a bit cheeky manner. This is the plan. Will you like it? After all, we strive for perfection.

We have new authors of texts and photos, who broaden our horizons and show things in a new light. This is because each of us is subjective and very often pays attention to something different. In this way we enrich one another. And that is what is all about.

And another thing! As the first person I decided to publish the text of Magda Iwanek on microplastic. "It is estimated that 60–80% of the garbage in the sea is plastic". Did you know about that? More and more people think that we have crossed the invisible border and have so much trashed Planet Earth that it will not recover from this sate any more. I hope, however, that it will not happen. It is up to us and it is up to each of us individually.

Our virtual journeys will also satisfy you. We are taking you to wonderful places. For me personally Croatian Lastovo is a discovery, it is described by Zbyszek Rogoziński. I had no idea it existed.

From cold destinations come Farne Islands seals and, as Igor Bartoszewicz wrote, "there is a place in Ireland where there are some wrecks"

In addition, there are two interviews. One is strictly about professional divers and I will add that it is good that the text and photos do not transmit smells. In my second editorial interview, I asked Bartek Grynda about his participation in the DAIMON project. "The main task was to determine the threats of sunken chemical and conventional weapons to the aquatic environment."

Of course, we do not forget about freediving. In addition to Agnieszka Kalska's publication about her return from Israel, we also present an interesting perspective on a diver and freediver in one. The latter one is from DAN. Safety is above all else.

I cordially and kindly invite you to read this issue. And the best review for our magazine will be you packing up and jumping into water, or being inspired to do a marvelous dive.

Microplastic. What a diver should know about it?

Raja Ampat, paradise found

Komodo, diving where two oceans meet The Cape Verde Islands. They say that they are happy and easygoing, but are they good for diving?

Lastovo, a forgotten island

Seals from Farne Islands

Publisher perfect diver Wojciech Zgoła ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com

Wojciech Zgoła Irena Kosowska

Mateusz Popek Agnieszka Kalska Jakub Degee Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak

Lawyer Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

dive centers, online store preorder@perfectdiver.com

He often repeats that he travels by diving and that is his motto. In 1985 he obtained a yacht sailor's license, and only in 2006 began to dive. In the following years he improved his skills by obtaining the Dive Master degree. He completed nearly 650 dives in various climatic conditions. Since 2007, he has been taking photographs underwater, and since 2008 he has also been filming. As an independent journalist, he published dozens of articles, mainly in journals dedicated to diving, but not only. Co-author of photo exhibitions in Poland and abroad. He is passionate about and propagator of diving.

Since 2008 he has been running his own website www.dive-adventure.eu. On the basis of extensive experience, in August 2018 he created the new Perfect Diver Magazine

"My passion, work and life are under water." He has been diving since 2009. Since 2008, he's walking in caves. Underwater archeologist by education. He participated in numerous projects in Poland and abroad. He has been engaged in professional diving since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the qualifications of a 2nd class diver. Has experience in underwater work both at sea and inland. Since 2013 he has been diving in caves, especially in the mountains, and since 2014 he is a diving instructor CMAS M1.

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Polska, diving and first aid instructor, technical diver and cave diver. In love with all flooded, dark, cold, tight places and invariably from the beginning of the diving route – in the Baltic. Implementing the DAN mission, he conducts a series of lectures "Dive safely" and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field research of divers for scientific purposes.

Polish photographer, winner of awards and distinctions in world underwater photography competitions, has already dived all over the world: with sharks and whales in South Africa, with orcs behind the Arctic Circle, on Galapagos with hundreds of hammerhead sharks and humpback whales in the Tonga Islands. He participates in specialist photographic workshops. He has been diving for 27 years, he started at the age of 12 – as soon as it was formally possible. He was the first in the world to use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera for underwater macro photography. Recently, in the remote Chincorro archipelago on the border between Mexico and Belize, he did it again, taking a successful attempt to photograph the eye of a crocodile with a macro lens with an additional magnifying lens, which is the world's largest photo of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of pixel count, print size, quality).

"I can not imagine life without water, where I experience freedom of the spirit in my free body."

● founder of the first freediving and swimming school in Poland – FREEBODY,

● freediving instructor Apnea Academy International and PADI Master Freediver,

● record holder and multiple medalist of the Polish Championships, member of the national team in freediving 2013–2018,

● finalist of the Freediving World Championships 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018,

● a Polish national championship champion and a member of the national team in swimming in 1998–2003,

● passionate about freediving and swimming.

Wojciech Zgoła
irena kosoWska
jakub degee
agniesZka kalska
MateusZ popek

President of Ocean-Tech Sp. z o. o., IT NAUI, wreck and cave diver. "Diving is not just about equipment. It is also discovering secrets and an opportunity to reach places that an ordinary mortal has no chance to see. Over ten years ago, for this passion, I abandoned the prospering business and founded the company Ocean-Tech, which in fact is an online store www.nurkowyswiat.pl"

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He has been diving for over 30 years, including over 20 years as a technical diver. He is a professional with great theoretical and practical knowledge. He is an instructor of many federations: GUE Instructor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS PADI, EFR, TMX Gas Blender. He participated in many diving projects and conferences as a leader, explorer, originator or lecturer. These included the Britannic Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave Scientific Project on Croatia caves, GROM Expedition in Narvik, Tuna Mine Deep Dive, Glavas Cave in Croatia, NOA-MARINE. Professionally, he is a technical director at TecLine in Scubatech, and a director of training at TecLine Academy.

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature. A graduate of journalism and a lover of good literature. She lives in harmony with nature, promotes a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and a vegetarian. Also engaged in ecological projects. Sharks and their protection are especially close to her heart. She writes about the subject in numerous articles and on her blog www.divingandtravel.pl She began her adventure with diving fifteen years ago by total coincidence. Today she is a Divemaster, she visited over 60 countries and dived on 5 continents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www. dive-away.pl, of which she is a co-founder.

An oceanographer by education, though currently bound to the sea by the heart, and not the profession. A co-founder of the Polish Zero Waste Association, in which she and a group of enthusiasts work to change awareness about the Earth's resources promoting a waste-free lifestyle. The love for the seas and oceans, together with the fight for a cleaner world, are two important pillars of her life. A traveller, diver and a yoga enthusiast. Diving has revealed a new space in her life. She spends every free moment surrounded by water to enjoy the pleasure and knowledge of this fascinating environment.

A traveller, a blogger and a recreational diver with a 10-year work experience. Passionate about photography, people and the world. In diving, she is most fascinated by underwater life and relax for the soul and body. She dived in Cuba and Sri Lanka, Thailand, Egypt, Poland and Europe. Her life motto is A.C. Clarke's words "The only way to discover the limits of the possible is to go beyond them into the impossible" and she persuades everybody always to act like this.

Technical and cave diver with 15 years of experience, participant in many exploration projects in deep and cave diving. For more than 10 years, he has been training divers and instructors on all levels on open circuits. The owner of the first Polish Academy of Technical and Cave Diving –DeepExplorers.pl. In free time enthusiasts of underwater photography on technical and cave diving.

Wojciech a. filip
robert styła
Magdalena iWanek
sylWia kosMalska-jurieWicZ
ceZary cZaro abraMoWski
iWona MiZdra

He is an architect by profession and runs his own architectural studio. Diving is his hobby, and his favorite occupation is to infect divers with Razor and the GoSideMount philosophy. He is the 14th official GoSideMount instructor in the world. As far as possible, he supports Krzysztof Starnawski in his dives in Europe. In addition to infecting and training others, he continues to train himself. Since 2013, he visits his instructor Steve Bogaerts every year and trains himself in Razor's "hometown" environment – in the caves of Mexico.

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the Academy of Physical Education (coaching specialization – handball) and the University of A. Mickiewicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental biology). He connected his professional life with this first university trying to influence the direction of development of future professionals on the one hand, and on the other planning and implementing research, pushing laboriously in the right direction of the stroller called science. In his free time he spends his time actively – his main passions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing (downhill skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle, recreational diving and many other activities, as well as photography, mainly nature.

I started a diving course in 1993 at the SKORPENA University Diver Club in Olsztyn. As it used to be, the course lasted all winter, and during summer it was necessary to "survive" a two-week diving camp In 1994, I got the degree of a CMAS diver. Then I went through almost all the levels of the club's career, until in 1999 I became a diving instructor of the PADI federation. And it went on from that moment…, I gained experience gaining knowledge and qualifications in various organisations. Currently, I am a SSI instructor trainer, and since 2010 I have been the owner of the Center of Unusual Diving – CROCODILES in Olsztyn.

A graduate of Geography faculty at the University of Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with a permanent smile on her lips! It was probably Destiny that led her to Activtour… and she's been here on permanent basis. She passionately fulfils the dreams of many, organizing diving trips around the world, and she has already been diving for more than half of her life. Each year she explores a different ‘piece of the ocean’, pinning another pin to her diving world map. In winter she changes fins into her beloved skis and gets away into the Alps. A recipe for life? "The only a dead trunk flows with the current – the explorer's canoe flows up the river!"

www.activtour.pl

anna@activtour.pl

A graduate of the University of Warsaw. An underwater photographer and filmmaker, has been diving since 1995. A co-operator at the Department of Underwater Archeology at the University of Warsaw. He publishes in diving magazines in Poland and abroad. The owner of the FotoPodwodna company which is the Polish representative of Ikelite, Nauticam, Inon, ScubaLampcompanies.

www.fotopodwodna.pl

m.trzcinski@fotopodwodna.pl

My name is Max and along with Paola, I run Orange Shark H2O Dive Centre. I started diving in 1985 and I fell in love with the underwater world. Year by year my love grew more and more, truly an endless love for the water. I have dived in rivers, thousands of times in lakes and the sea. My passion is photos and videos and deep diving but I even love to stay in shallow water, forever fascinated of this water world. My favorite sea is the Mediterranean, where every dive is different. I like to transmit my passion and knowledges to everyone, in hopes that the world sees the beauty that I see. We also LOVE Bonnie and she is our FAVOURITE daughter.

toMasZ jeżeWski jeżu
Wojciech jarosZ
anna sołoducha
igor bartosZeWicZ
Max valli
Marcin trZciński

grZegorZ ŚWiątnicki

A graduate of Poznan University of Technology, a fan of diving and running. Professionally deals in the management of a production company. A self-taught photographer, he has been taking the camera under water for several years. He values simplicity, efficiency and safety, that's why he dives and trains based on the GoSideMount philosophy. Mexican caves are his favorite dive site. A passionate propagator of statements that "water is for fish" and "running is overrated"

ZbignieW rogoZiński

A passionate and enthusiast of diving, he photographs amateurly and likes to know what he sees under the water, what are the names of the animals he calls and what stories hide the wrecks. He has been diving since 2009, getting the PADI Instructor Assistant degree, and in 2010 he and his friends opened a diving school and Wolsztyn Diving Club Bad Fish.

adrian jurieWicZ

A traveler, photographer and the underwater world filmmaker, an Asian cuisine enthusiast and a PADI diving instructor. He visited over 70 countries and dived on 5 continents (the other two are planned for next year's expeditions). For several years he has also been an instructor and trainer of the unmanned aircraft flights. A co-author of a travel agency for divers www.dive-away.pl. He documents his expeditions with photos and descriptions of his journeys on his blog www.divingandtravel.pl

robert łaWrynoWicZ

A traveler, an enthusiast of diving and underwater photography who has dived on five continents and the remaining ones are on his bucket list. He always repeats: "The best is still ahead of us" and looks ahead with optimism.

miCrOPL astiC

What a diver should know about it?

text and photos Magdalena iWanek (Polish Zero Waste Association)

Beautiful and rich coral reefs around the world, dolphins emanating with energy and freedom and other amazing creatures of the deep sea are just a few of many examples of wonders that for years have been attracting lovers of the oceans and diving. Currently, it is impossible to be passionate about seas and organisms living there without being aware of the pollution of their natural environment.

Information about the microplastic and garbage floating on the surface of the sea attacks us from every direction, but do we know what exactly is going on? Today I will try to answer some questions about the plastic particles. What is microplastics, where does it come from in the sea and what can we do to limit its spread on our planet?

In the marine environment, waste of various origins can be found: 80% of the solid pollutants originate from land (from rivers and coastal agglomerations), and about 18% from the maritime industry, such as fishing (abandoned or lost nets, ropes), or trade and transport. It is estimated that 60-80% of the rubbish in the sea is plastic. This is not surprising, since the global production of plastics currently

amounts to over 300 million tons per year, and on average just about 30% is recycled. So what happens to the rest of the waste? This huge amount of garbage is difficult to control and often gets into the environment in an uncontrolled way. If it is not removed from the sea thanks to such actions as The Ocean Clean Up (www.theoceancleanup.com), it will remain in the marine environment forever. Plastic decomposes for a very long time. Some of its types are biodegradable only after 1000 years, which means that from the human life perspective they do not decompose. The only process that is noticeable to us is the defragmentation of plastic into smaller particles. The rate of degradation depends on the type of material, oxygen availability, temperature and other external mechanical fac-

tors, such as sea waves, or the biological activity of aquatic organisms.

We divide plastics found in the sea into various fractions. Depending on the size, we call them from the largest: macroplastic, mesoplastic, microplastic and nanoplastic. Today we will talk about microplastics, ie. particles often invisible to the naked eye. Their size ranges from 1 μm to 5 mm. They may be in the form of granules, fibres or other non-symmetrical particles. Due to the source of their origin, we can divide them into primary and secondary particles. Primary microplastics are those that were produced as tiny particles eg as exfoliants used in cosmetics: peels, shampoos, toothpastes, make-up cosmetics, glit-

ter and other decorative elements. They may also be abrasive materials used both in industry (eg. shipbuilding) and in the household as well as as industrial granules. The second group are secondary microplastics, i.e. those formed from the disintegration of larger objects: ragged plastic bags, broken boxes, lighters or toys. Degree and time of decomposition depend on the susceptibility of a given material to external factors, both physical, chemical and biological, as well as its exposure to these factors. It is worth noting that this group also includes microfibers, which are released into the water each time during washing clothes made of synthetic fabrics, both at home and in professional laundries. One fleece blouse that is made in 100% of polyester (originating even from recy-

Philippines, Siquijor island. Beach away from tourist traffic. February 2019.

p la STIC and m IC ropla STIC I n mar I ne en VI ronmen T

cled PET bottles) during one wash releases up to 1 million microfibres into water. Creators of the project MERMAIDS Life+ project (http://life-mermaids.eu/en/), devoted to research on this issue, say that in Europe alone up to 30,000 tones of microfibres can get into the water every yeaer, of which 40 tons goes to the Baltic Sea! Globally unnoticeable fibrils represent a huge problem for the marine ecosystem.

Why is microplastic dangerous to us? In most cases, we do not see it with the naked eye, so we cannot control its release into the environment or further spread. The research confirmed the presence of microplastics in plankton samples, marine sediments as well as in vertebrate and invertebrate’s bodies. The plastic particles consist of different types of materials, often containing additional substances that improve its performance such as

1a) Sources of plastic in the seas and oceans.
1b) The phenomenon of fragmentation or division of large elements into smaller ones, as a result of physical, chemical and biological processes.
1c) Plastic/microblast particles get into the food chains of marine organisms and humans.
Simplified scheme
Graphics Magdalena Iwanek
Waste, plastic. Different sizes.
Direction of changes and processes.
Microplastic in cosmetics

stabilizers, pigments and buoyancy reducing agents or other fillers. They interact with chemical substances present in seawater. Some of these substances can be released into the aquatic environment and cause hormonal disturbances of animals living there. In addition, microplastics have a hydrophobic surface that facilitates the adsorption of various contaminants present in water, including pesticides and heavy metals. These substances, due to the fact that they dissolve in fats, can accumulate in the adipose tissue of marine organisms and move between the links of the food chain, showing increasing concentrations at each subsequent trophic level. On their surface forms a so-called biofilm – a thin coating consisting of bacteria or algae. For this reason, among other things, small sea animals confuse microplastics with nutritious organic matter suspended in water. Direct consumption of plastic has been demonstrated in more than 100 marine species. Equally often, these synthetic microparticles are eaten accidentally or are absorbed in a different way. Crabs have been seen to get plastic particles through the gills; plastic can also adhere to internal fragments of bodies or absorb into organisms through cell membranes. Unfortunately, it has been discovered that people are also exposed to eating plastic particles. Plastic particles were detected in samples of bottled water, beer, honey and, of course, in the seafood.

Research on microplastic and its impact on our body is still ongoing. We do not have enough confirmed data on its exact contents in the sea bottom sediments or on the actual state of the digestive ducts of the sea fish. However, we do know for certain that this problem exists and we should do everything to prevent it. We do not know what the consequences of the release of such huge amounts of toxic particles will be to the environment. It's worth knowing more about this topic, because new publications from around the world appear every day. Take a look at the Coalition Clean Baltic website for the Plastic Free Baltic project https://ccb.se/plasticfreebaltic/, where you can find a list of cosmetics containing microplastics. What else could you do? Avoid using disposable, non-recyclable plastic and agents containing micro-plastic in their composition, which means you should also buy clothes from natural fabrics. Each of us should talk about this problem and present an active attitude, eg. by joining the beach cleaning actions.

Divers are a community that, due to their love for water, are its natural ambassadors. We should strive to ensure that the reservoirs in which we dive remain in the best condition.

Raja Ampat

paradise found

text sylWia kosMalska-jurieWicZ photos adrian jurieWicZ, robert łaWrynoWicZ

The most metaphysical and moving beauty of this world comes from nature. p lato said: "If there is anything worth living for, it is to see beauty". a lthough it is difficult to describe and define beauty, I always try to see it in every aspect of life, in all the places and people.

Borneo Java
New Guinea
Celebes
Timor
Bali
Sumatra
WAIGEO
NEW GUINEA
BATANTA
SALAWATI
MISOOL
KOFIAU

In the quest to see the most beautiful, most virgin and undiscovered diving areas, we arrived at Raja Ampat in West Papua. This region had long been on our bucket list, but only now we have succeeded in realizing our dream… as there is proper time and place for everything in our lives.

We live in an incredibly beautiful location on the island of Yeben, located in the western part of Indonesian Papua. Six private, intimate villas are located on the northern coast of the island with a stunning view of the ocean. A wooden, magenta jetty, a beach covered with exotic shells and coconut palm trees. It is hard to believe that only 15-minutes-ride by speed boat divides us from the famous mountainous island of Pianemo, the slopes of which are covered with emerald green

rainforests. The way to the top of the hill is long and tiring, but once we get there, we feel as if we touched the sky. The view we see will never be forgotten… tiny mountainous islands scattered across the ocean, surrounded by shallow lagoons in the most beautiful shades of blue and turquoise green. A captivating, almost unreal picture. Only Mother Nature could create something so moving.

Life on the island of Yeben flows very slowly, and its rhythm is determined by the time of day. If I had two words to describe this amazing place, I would use the title of the movie "Cast Away" directed by Robert Zemeckis. The island is uninhabited, not counting a few tourists and employees of the ministry who came to Yeben. The only link between the island and the outside world is a wooden jetty that extends far into the sea. It is from here that we leave every day at dawn for diving. The bridge also gives "shelter" to numerous schools of fish: lutjanos, groupers or humphead wrasses, which are hidden in the shadow of sea grass from a large herd of black sharks. There are so many fish in the shallow lagoon that surrounds the island that it's hard to see the sandy bottom. It only appears when the shark cuts through the school, which then splits like a curtain.

When I am here and see this extraordinary, rich underwater world, I cannot believe that a few years ago the population of sharks, mantas and other creatures inhabiting Raja Ampat was severely disturbed by the destructive activities of humans. How did it happen that it was possible to protect this region of the world and restore its original beauty?

In 2002, this extraordinary land was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. They called Raja Ampat the "Mirror Ocean" because the waters surrounding the islands are crystal clear and the nature is lively and uncontaminated. The richness of this region of the world constitute not gold bars, but enormous schools of fish. Over 600 species of hard and soft coral reefs in the most beautiful colours of the rainbow, flocks of sharks, manta rays

Photo Jarosław Więckowski

and countless other creatures that make up this world's largest biodiverse underwater land.

When I first immersed myself in the warm waters surrounding the island of Yeben, I thought it was

they called r aja a mpat the " m irror Ocean" because the waters surrounding the islands are crystal clear and the nature is lively and uncontaminated.

a dream or that I came to the underwater sky… in one moment the ocean flashed a million stars due to fluorescent plankton, and I found myself in the centre of the most beautiful spectacle in the world. Two enormous black and white manta rays danced over the reef, which seemed to extend indefinitely. These beautiful, gentle creatures have extraordinary power, they can make happiness fill every cell

of my body… peace, freedom, joy and agitation, all these feelings appear simultaneously. This is one of the most beautiful performances in the world of nature, which takes place in front of our eyes and brings hope. I think that's what the underwater world looked like in the times of Yacques-Yves Cousteau. A trip to Raja Ampat is a journey in time that each of us should take, virtually or physically, to understand what we will lose if we do not start to fight together for our planet.

Raja Ampat is a paradise saved, thanks to extraordinary people who had the courage to speak on behalf of animals inhabiting both the Ocean and numerous islands, which together cover 46296 km² of land area. Mark Erdmann, a biologist from the NGO Conservation International, who focuses on saving and protecting nature, contributes a lot to protecting this region of the world. The main philosophy behind this organisation is the statement – "People need nature to live". Mark Erdmann is a real authority in the field of managing marine protected areas around Raja Ampat. He cooperates with local residents who had previously fished for sharks, and now are defenders who guard and protect their home together, because they understood that what they had done earlier was wrong and they have to fix it all. That is why education, which plays a key role here, is so important. For several years, Mark Erdman has been working with the Government of Indonesia. Together they have created a special protection system for Raja Ampat. Special water patrols were created consisting of local people specially trained for it, who patrol and protect the fisheries from poachers day and night. Thanks to systematic practice, poaching in this region of the world decreased by 90%, and eco-tourism has flourished. Currently, drones, which are more ecological than boats powered by combustion engines, are used to patrol larger areas.

Young people want to learn and act to protect Raja Ampat, an example that education and awareness, not only of local communities, can work wonders.

An outstanding example of this is Shawn Heinrich, a filmmaker and photographer of the underwater world. He spent over five years in Western Papua, tracking and fighting poachers who fished sharks and manta rays in a savage way. One day during the dive, Shawn saw a beautiful nurse shark which was barbarically deprived of its fins, due to their culinary qualities. The animal was still alive when he came to him, it lay on the coral reef slowly dying in agony. Shawn recorded this shocking

r aja a mpat is a story how to make impossible come true. thanks to the involvement of so many people, the number of turtles, sharks, manta, fish and other creatures inhabiting this extraordinary land has rebuilt and is still growing.

picture… he called the director of the WildAid organization, who cooperates with numerous celebrities from Asia and Europe who, through their image, could draw people's attention and dissuade them from buying products of wild nature. To this purpose, the organization uses broadly defined social media. The WildAid agency created a very emotional film (which can be seen on their website) showing the shot of a dying shark filmed by Shawn. It was broadcast in the best aerial time in all possible television stations. The film hit hundreds of millions of Chinese people. Thanks to this campaign and the support of the Chinese Government, the consumption of shark fin soup dropped by over 80%. Shown showed people a sad, terrifying story that moved their hearts and caused great emotions… they saw the suffering of a defenseless creature, and not a finished product on a plate.

Raja Ampat is a story how to make impossible come true. Thanks to the involvement of so many people, the number of turtles, sharks, manta, fish and other creatures inhabiting this extraordinary land has rebuilt and is still growing. Nowhere else in the world can we meet such a biodiverse and rich life as we will experience in West Papua. It was here that I was diving over the most beautiful coral reefs in the world and met a carpet shark. Raja Ampat is an example that "impossible" does not exist.

The season in West Papua continues throughout the year, but the best conditions for diving are from October to April. The currents are very strong, but where there are currents, there is life, large flocks of sharks, manta rays and spectacular schools of fish. When we discover such a place on Earth, we would like to stay there forever. But our journey is still going on, and who knows, maybe it is just the beginning.

Komodo

diving where two oceans meet

water is an extraordinary element. It delights, frightens, surprises, brings a large dose of adrenaline, but also teaches humility. text anna sołoducha photos edWard Wronka

I emergedfrom the water, breaking the blue water surface. Another amazing diving site, sometimes pierced by currents, schools of fish, multicoloured corals and sea anemones. Suddenly, I hear the voice of a guide calling us to the boat. I have no idea where this rush comes from. I have no idea… until the moment when I saw whirlpools approaching with incredible speed while still getting bigger. In a fraction of a second they can pull us down to a depth of 30-40 m and they certainly do not know pity… Scientists say that giant oceanic whirls behave identically like cosmic black holes. They discovered that whirling water molecules form a barrier that does not release anything that had entered inside – just like the photon sphere in space… Welcome to the only equatorial region on Earth where two oceans meet – the Pacific with the Indian Ocean. Welcome to Komodo National Park.

Indonesia, an island country occupying an archipelago of 17,000 islands, of which every third is uninhabited, is an increasingly popular destination for divers from around the world. It is estimated that here, near the coast of the country that has a "reverse Polish flag", there is 15% of the whole coral reef of the world. No other country has such numerous, rich and diverse diving sites. There is no shortage of diving spots in Indonesia, but the Komodo region is a special place. The archipelago of the Lesser Sunda Islands, to which the islands of Komodo, Flores and Rinca belong, form a latitudinally stretched chain, made up of about 40 islands.

Together with a group of divers, under the flag of Activtour, we got off at the airport in Labuan Bajo –a town located on the island of Flores, at the beginning of October 2018. The very journey from Poland or Europe is pleasant and not too bothersome. Most often, UAE or Qatar airports are selected as transfer hubs, with a short wait for the next flight of 9–10

sumatra
Java Bali timor sumba Flores sumbawa Lombok
Borneo
Celebes
new Guinea
KOmOdO Padar rinCa
FLOres sumBawa
Komodo National Park

hours before landing on one of the most popular Indonesian islands – Bali. We made it – we crossed the equator! Already at the airport in Denpasar you can feel how its inhabitants worship culture and religion! Everywhere you can see the golden statues of Buddha, Hindu idols, the multitude of flowers, garlands, and the street roundabouts decorated with scenes right out of the Greek or Roman mythology… And the splendour, as in the Baroque and Rococo times, but certainly – it has its own charm! If you plan to stay on Komodo, you should spend the night in nearby Kuta –a small town 5 km from the airport, and the next day – fly the best local airline – Garuda Indonesia, to the island of Flores. In Bali life is ruled by religion. The rhythm is determined by full moons. Here you will find traditional temples, see ceremonies taking place almost daily and streets decorated with flowers, fruits and rice. There is a reason why it is called the Island of the Gods. This is a typical picture of Bali. None of us think about the huge contrast that will welcome us the next day, on the wild island of Flores.

In the land of savannah, brown hills, hilly islands and turquoise water, in the port of Labuan Bajo life looks completely different than on colourful Bali. Raw, rocky peaks, submerged underwater mountains make this extraordinary land look very dignified. After leaving the plane, the first thing that comes into view is a huge photo of the largest lizard in the world – the Komodo dragon, the king of this region. In the port town itself you can only see poverty, littered streets and children sitting on the sidewalks, but with such smiles that even the most frozen human heart will be stolen! :) "Liveaboard" boats are moored a short distance from the marina, so we cross over to one of them on a small boat filled to the brim with our luggage. On Sinar Pagi, gracefully translated as Morning Dawn, we were welcomed by a crew of Flores residents, serving us with a beautiful and delicious cocktail from the dragon fruit, famous in this region. It was only a taste of what local cuisine specialties we would have a chance to try during our entire trip.

Komodo n ational Park (…) has unbelievable diversity. there are over 260 species of corals, 70 species of sponges, molluscs, echinoderms and crustaceans, over 1000 species of fish, marine reptiles and mammals.

The beautiful, traditional Indonesian boat is built of irontree wood. Heavy and hard and not easy to process, but it is durable and resistant to pests. The agile, cosy and very comfortable boat became our home during an 8-day safari.

Komodo National Park was created in 1980, and in 1991 was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List and to this day it has unbelievable diversity. There are over 260 species of corals, 70 species of sponges, molluscs, echinoderms

and crustaceans, over 1000 species of fish, marine reptiles and mammals. It includes several dozen small islands, of which the most famous are Rinca, Komodo, and Padar. Over a hundred years ago, a British naturalist and discoverer Alfred Russel Wallace, arriving at these distant islands, established the existence of an invisible line that divides them. It is officially called the "Wallace Line" which separates Bali from Lombok, running through the Lombok Straits – the deepest sea trench of the region. The islands to the west of the line have a tropical climate of southeast Asia, and those to the east resemble drier Australia. The location of Komodo National Park in the transition zone contributes to the species richness and biodiversity of the area. We are starting towards the so-called North Komodo to see what is on the other side of the water…

Banta Island is an ancient, uninhabited, partially submerged volcano on the north-west coast of

Sumbawa, which is not part of Komodo National Park. This is one of the few places on Earth where you can dive on a volcanic cone! The last eruption took place in 1957, but the substrate is still rich in nutrients, which makes sea life flourish! Noteworthy is the GPS point, which is pierced by strong currents, because it is one of the widest gaps between the islands of the archipelago. The channel is filled with currents from the Flores Sea, which during our immersion attracted flocks of barracudas, tunas and Spanish mackerels!

Tatawa Besar is a place with one of the most amazing Komodo coral gardens, worth more than just one dive. Marine life concentrates at the depth between 5 to 18 meters. Hard and soft corals with mostly orange-red and light blue shades create such a high colour contrast that you certainly cannot forget them. Boulders on the bottom, densely covered with sponges, hide scorpions, young batfish, squid, nudibranch snails and morays.

Undoubtedly one of the most interesting dive sites was the area around the island of Sangeang. There, we immersed ourselves in the shadow of an active volcano, whose last explosion took place in 2014. Slopes covered with black, volcanic sand were pierced with a thousand of hydrothermal vents that "bubble" geothermal water with sulphur. Water is heated by volcanic activity, even pushed out of the earth's crust! It was a real dive performance!

We lay on the hot sand, admiring the underwater Jacuzzi!:) The Hot Rock dive site is full of nudibranch snails, shrimps, colourful anthias, gorgonian fans, black corals, as well as a herd of garden eels, resembling a rippling field of seagrass. You could not wish for more!

The top dive sites of North Komodo are definitely Castle Rock and Crystal Rock. Here a special feast awaits divers. The life of fish is simply stunning! We watch barracudas, snappers, jackfish, a few specimens of white and black sharks, and most of

all – huge giant travellies, Castle Rock being their real kingdom! The water is trembling, the travellies are moving on the hunt. The underwater mountain is covered with table corals and small gorgonian trees. The top of the rock, which is located at a depth of about 3–4 m, is an ideal refuge from the current, a sort of fortress, hence the name "Castle Rock". At about 15 meters there is a small hollow, where you can see huge schools of mackerel, hovering in the shape of a long band, creating amazing tornadoes. Castle Rock is also inhabited by seahorses and batfish, and if you are lucky –you can spot bottlenose dolphins too. Diving on Crystal Rock looks very similar. Regardless of which channel the current carries you in, you can look at turtles, bumphead parrotfishes and sweetlips…

Some places on Earth can boast of the fact that they have more than one spectacular dive site that is remembered for life. During the weekly safari, every day, every dive was the fulfilment of

the expectations of even the most demanding divers! Batu Balong we repeated twice! The diving site is located between Tatawa Kecil and the island of Komodo. Immersion in this place brings you all the best – again huge schools of fish, incredibly colourful corals, sponges, soft corals, sharks, giant trevallies, tunas. The north-central part of the park does not differ from the north. The rock growing in the middle of the channel has steeply falling walls that are completely covered with coral which adheres strongly to the rock due to strong currents, attacking alternately from the north and from the south. Due to the topography of rocks and exposure to strong currents, the reef has never been the object of interest of local fishermen, thanks to which its condition is perfect! In the lower parts, we encounter predators such as napoleons, grey reef sharks, white-tailed sharks, and in shallower parts, colourful, small reef fish, hawksbill sea turtles, sweetlips, shrimps or nudibranch snails. From dawn to dusk, you can watch fish hunting and hid-

Photo Nadya Kulagina
Photo Nadya Kulagina

ing from predators, laying eggs and keeping an eye on them, feeding or fighting for survival. The great amount of the fish makes your eyes unable to keep up with the wild imagination. There are times when the current hits the rock and spreads on both sides – it creates two, very fast, whirling rivers! The depth of blue surrounding us brought along with the current a herd of neon snappers, clouds of redtooth triggerfishes, Spanish mackerels, barracudas and tunas crossing the abyss. With a tear in my eye, we finished diving here.

The animation of nature in the waters surrounding Komodo is indescribable. One of the reasons that attracts divers here from around the world are ocean manta rays, often with a span of 5 m! We have the best chance of seeing these beautiful giants from April to June, and then from October to November. At Komodo, we managed to see ocean manta rays, reef manta rays and a flock of giant devil rays! Karang Makassar, Banta Island, Manta Alley are just some of the places where there is

a good chance to meet these majestic creatures. Lying on the bottom and watching the manta rays several times like flying kites, I dreamed that diving would never end…

The stay on the boat was extraordinary. We relished every day. The cordiality, helpfulness and sincere smile of people from Flores Island gave a different dimension to each day. There were moments of silence, reflection and staring at the infinity of the ocean, there was music, laughter and fun. There was even a morning when before diving we saw water spurting from fountains… whales! For us – it was a real rarity.

Depending on the conditions at sea, we had the opportunity to set foot on dry land several times. Hilly islands with steep slopes require a really good level of fitness. The place that will always remain in my memory is the island of Padar. Take your breath away… these are the words that say everything. That day we woke up quite a bit before dawn. We

got into our diving boat and by the light of stars we moved towards the island. There was a magical atmosphere around us. The sound of waves and the moonlight… Suddenly, the spell breaks. At one moment, boats filled with tourists of Asian origin began to arrive. Is commerce inevitable even at the end of the world? A 40-minute trek to the top of the island is ahead of us. You cannot do it without good sports or trekking shoes! The crowd moving up nervously watched the watches to be sure they make it before the sun began to rise. At the top we found… fog. The grey sky, the sun hidden behind the clouds… hmm… apparently after the fourth day of holidays, there is a crisis. Judging by the faces of my group, it was that moment. Fortunately, after a dozen or so minutes, just before 6:00 am, a surrealistic landscape appeared before our eyes. The island covered with savannah and bright green hills with fairy-tale shapes was surrounded by three turquoise bays with sand – each with a different colouring – pearl white, black coal and a bright shade of pink. Within the park on Komodo, we can see at

From dawn to dusk, you can watch fish hunting and hiding from predators, laying eggs and keeping an eye on them, feeding or fighting for survival. the great amount of the fish makes your eyes unable to keep up with the wild imagination.

least six pink beaches, which owe their name to the tiny remains of pink corals that settle on the sand. We were looking at our "Morning Dawn" in the light of the rising sun. For such views – it's worth diving and going to such places!

It is also impossible not to mention that Komodo and Rinca are also houses for the largest lizard in the world – the Komodo dragon, which reaches up to 3 m in length and even up to 100 kg in weight! The dragon from Komodo is an endemic species,

Photo Nadya Kulagina

which means that it is found only in one place in the world. At first glance, it may seem that they are lazy and rather slow creatures, but nothing could be more wrong. The Komodo dragon, who is an efficient hunter, can reach 20 km/h. They are ambush reptiles, tearing out the softest parts of their victim's body, usually the stomach, or mutilating legs. Interestingly, their prey dies after being bitten due to the poison that is released from the glands located in the lower jaw. This poison causes paralysis, unbearable pain, uncontrolled blood loss and stopping of coagulation processes. Therefore, bitten victims quickly bleed out. If the wounded prey can escape, it will probably catch pathogens in some waterhole, resulting in an infection. In both cases, death is almost certain. Unfortunately, during our trip to the island of Rinca, the dragons were not ready for a meeting. Only a few of them lying in the shadow of the trees and the surrounding buildings have made us believe that dragons really exist.

Diving in the Komodo National Park is special, and what is more – very diverse. Lovers of macro, shallow muck dives, falling reefs and dark volcanic sand, underwater peaks and steep walls will all find satisfaction here. The currents are strong, but they bring all that which is most amazing… Sometimes they can take you away, sometimes it happens that the divers spin like in a washing machine. In addition, there are icy sea drifts that we experienced on our own skin. The temperature drop from 28 to 20 ° C is quite… shocking. The strait between the islands of Rinca and Komodo forms a passage between the two oceans, the Indian Ocean to the south and the Pacific Ocean (Flores Sea) to the north. Thanks to the constant mixing of warm tropical waters with colder ones, Komodo has become a unique ecosystem with extremely rich flora and fauna, thus becoming part of the Coral Triangle with the largest marine biodiversity in the world.

After returning from Indonesia, I can say without hesitation that it is worth to take off red high heels and put on neoprene shoes. Just for a moment, to immerse yourself in the waters of Komodo National Park… the land of volcanoes, landscapes, and above all – breath-taking dives. This is clearly a place where time has stopped.

Photo Nadya Kulagina

The Cape Verde Islands

they say that they are happy and easygoing, but are they good for diving?

text iWona MiZdra photos ceZary cZaro abraMoWski

We went to Cape Verde by recommendation of friends – “It is one of the best diving places in the world we have been to” – that is the opinion we heard from them. The Cape Verde islands belong to the Republic of Cape Verde (Cabo Verde in Portuguese). This island state was a Portuguese colony located in the central part of the Atlantic about 450 km west of the Africa coast on the same latitude as Senegal.

This archipelago consists of 10 main islands and 16 islets. They are divided into two groups: the Barlavento and Sotavento Islands. The former,

which are located in the north, are the islands of Santo Antão, São Vicente, Santa Luzia, São Nicolau, Sal and Boa Vista. The latter are the islands of Maio, Santiago, Fogo and Brava and they lie in the south.

Tourism in Cape Verde is developing mainly on the islands of Sal and Boa Vista. Each of these islands has a lot to offer for tourists: beautiful sandy beaches, exotic cuisine, colonial architecture, interesting culture, beautiful nature, and above all, ideal places for water sports – including diving. We chose the island of Sal, which is the best island for exploring the beautiful fauna and flora of the underwater world.

Our hotel was located far from the centre but close to the diving base where we planned to dive. There are several bases on the island, most of them in Santa Maria. Diving prices are more or less like in the Caribbean. A package of 10 dives costs about

Boa Vista
Santiago Maio
Brava Fogo São Nicolau
São Vicente
Santa Luzia
Santo Antão Sal

300 €. We decided to dive with Cabo Verde Diving, a PADI 5* diving centre. The owner of the base was a PADI course director, so the service was professional and everything was on time. The guides were sometimes a bit overworked, but always with a sincere smile – "Hello, no stress!" – this is the motto of the inhabitants of Cabo Verde.

Sal can be divided into two diving areas – Palmeira to the north and Murdeira to the south, including Santa Maria. Buses are available te get from bases to diving sites. The bases also offer transfer from the hotel to the base. We reached the port of Santa Maria by bus, and then we sailed to the sea in a RIB boat. In our diving base the dives took place all day – two in the morning and two in the afternoon, you could also dive from the shore, on the beach at the diving centre.

There is a tropical climate on the Cape Verde Islands, which is why you can dive here all year long. In summer the air temperature is around 27–32°C, in winter 23–29°C. The temperature of crystal clear

…it certainly was one of the most difficult dives in my life. i  have not seen such waves even when diving in the Baltic. For less experienced divers this can be quite an extreme experience. i n the summer however, the ocean is calm.

water does not drop below 22°C in winter, and in the summer months it is around 27°C. Underwater, in September and October you can meet whales, sharks, humpback whales, barracudas, turtles, manta rays and schools of big fishes. The best chance of meeting these huge animals is from mid-September to mid-October.

Sal Island is a fairly windy island, as I learned on the first day, when there were huge waves and a very strong surface current in the ocean. Yes, it certainly was one of the most difficult dives in my life. I have not seen such waves even when diving in the Baltic. For less experienced divers this can be quite an extreme experience. In the summer however, the ocean is calm. This is the turtles' hatching period, that is why you can find them not only underwater, but also when laying eggs on the beach in the evening.

Sal Island also offers cave diving. May and June is the perfect time for fans of the beautiful play of lights in the rich in life caverns and caves (Buraco and Regona caves), which are located in the north of the island. For lovers of wrecks, the island of Sal offers several sunken ships and fishing boats, including the wrecks of Boris (28 m) and S.Antao (12 m). Maybe they are not the large, deeply located wrecks to which we are accustomed in the Baltic Sea, but these few quite shallowly sunken shipwrecks are also impressive.

m y friend Czarek and i  agree that we had not seen such lush underwater life before, despite having a lot of experience, and this is certainly something that distinguishes Cabo verde from other dive sites in the world.

And what are our personal feelings after ten days of diving in Cape Verde?

Underwater there is everything one would expect: multicoloured corals, various rock formations, caves, wrecks, huge schools of large and medium-sized fish. There are numerous sharks, rays, Atlantic sailfish, tunas, morays, huge crabs, lobsters, snails and red scorpionfish.

My friend Czarek and I agree that we had not seen such lush underwater life before, despite having a lot of experience, and this is certainly something

that distinguishes Cabo Verde from other dive sites in the world. The coral reef is mainly a group of hard corals, which reminded Czarek of the reef in Mexico, and myself of the one in Thailand. In comparison with the Red Sea, the reef here may seem rather modest, but it is definitely interesting and worth seeing. The Cape Verde Islands are an interesting alternative to Egypt and the Canary Islands, but for sure this is not Sipadan or Galapagos.

Are the Cape Verde Islands one of the best dive sites in the world? You need to find out for yourself.

na wszystkie poziomy na obiegach otwartych

Lastovo

a forgotten island

text and photos ZbignieW rogoZiński

Croatia, to divers, is associated primarily with wrecks around the Istrian p eninsula and technical dives on Vis, the k ornati n ational p ark or around the largest islands of Brač, h var and p ag. Few people remember a small island located 13 kilometres south of the Isle of k orčula. w hat is more, many do not even know about its existence.

TheLastovo archipelago, which covers a total of 46 islands and small rock islets with their beautiful coves and intimate beaches seems at first glance no different from other islands on the Adriatic. Until 1992, due to its military purpose, Lastovo was inaccessible to foreign tourists, thus avoiding the turbulent changes of modern civilization. Thanks to the isolation of the island, its virgin nature with many species of plants and animals already non-existent on land has survived. All this is surrounded by azure waters, which are considered among the richest in fish in the area of the

Adriatic. Thanks to these undeniable advantages, from 2006 the archipelago has gained the status of a national park.

The separation from the modern civilization has however its negative consequences. The lack of industry means that more and more people are leaving for the mainland to look for work, which means that the number of inhabitants of the island is constantly decreasing. Of those who have decided to stay, the majority are involved in the cultivation of olives and vines, or fishery. Because of the difficult access to the island, you can get to this lost paradise only by ferry or catamaran from Split, a town located 100 kilometres away. You can also reach it from the port Vela Luka on Korčula Island. The infrastructure here is not as extensive as in other parts of Croatia. However, it is worth to put in a little effort, force yourself to accept a few sacrifices and escape from the hustle and bustle of the modern world to get lost for a few days in this paradisiacal corner.

After arriving on the island and disembarking the ferry, we have to get to Zaklopatica, a few kilometres away. This small fishing village, with less than 100 inhabitants, is located in a picturesque cove, separated from the open sea by a small island. In addition to a few places of accommodation and three restaurants, the only grocery store on the island is located in another town, two kilometres away. There is only one diving base "Ankora" run by the Frlan siblings and it is a base for diving in the archipelago.

The base has a 12-person boat, by which within no more than half an hour we are able to reach most of the destinations we are interested in. Dive sites around the island are a mixture of underwater vertical walls descending to a depth of up to 80 meters and underwater meadows and hills. All this with visibility of up to 40 meters. An additional advantage is a huge biodiversity of underwater fauna and flora. There are many species of fish, molluscs and crustaceans that we encounter on every dive. In addition, during a trip by boat, you

can meet bottlenose dolphins crossing the azure waters. During our first visit to Zaklopatica, from the terrace of our room we also saw a turtle feeding in the waters of the bay. True, the guys from the base stated that what we saw was rather the effect of our earlier tasting of local drinks brewed in the process of fruit fermentation, but our version is certainly more attractive.

All of the above means that every dive in these waters leaves an unforgettable impression, but if you would like to choose the best spots, Bijelac, Susac and Drasan would be among them.

Bijelac is a small rocky island, which underwater turns out to be two columns protruding from the bottom at a depth of 60 meters. Diving usually starts on the northern side of the island, and then

swimming along the wall, having it on the left, we find a short tunnel, after which we enter the canyon dividing the island into two parts. Vertical walls, crisscrossed with slits and cavities, descend to a depth of 55 meters here. Strong currents flowing around the island make the place full of life. At the foot of the canyon we can find pentagonal starfishes Guymer Asterina and a lot of lobsters for which the waters around Lastova are famous. The very name of the island comes from the Italian name for these crustaceans. Along the vertical walls covered with colourful sponges, sea anemones, and fans of gorgonians, there are swarms of sargos, saddled seabreams, common two-branded sea breams, chromises and white cloud mountain minnows, among which the wrasses and groupers flit. In the dark recesses of the rock, phycis, congers, red scorpion fishes and Mediterranean morays are hiding.

Sometimes schools of barracudas can be seen in the depths.

The second place worth recommending is the island of Susac, about 15 kilometres away from Lastovo. Unfortunately, due to the strong currents and winds occurring between these islands, it is not always possible to reach this place. However, if the conditions are favourable, there are two attractive dive sites waiting for the lucky ones. The first one is located at the foot of a vertical wall, at the top of which there is a nineteenth century lighthouse. The depth of the sea in this place is about 40 meters, and the dive itself takes place around a rocky spur separating a small bay from the open sea. During the second dive in a place situated several dozens meters from the previous location, at a depth of about 15 meters, we found the entrance to an underwater cave. After passing the entrance and a several-meter long tunnel, you

at the foot of the canyon we can find pentagonal starfishes Guymer a sterina and a lot of lobsters for which the waters around Lastova are famous. the very name of the island comes from the i talian name for these crustaceans.

can emerge in a natural lake within the island created as a result of weathering rocks. Floating on the surface of the water, you have the impression that you are in a huge well. At the entrance to the cave you can find shrimps, red scorpionfishes and small nudibranches. On the nearby rocks you

Planning the next dive trip to Croatia, it is worth taking a look at this distant and forgotten piece of land, surrounded by crystalline waters, because sooner or later the civilization will remember it and change it as has done with the rest of the adriatic islands.

can often see large brown snails feeding on algae aplysia fasciata , colloquially called mottled sea hares.

Another place worth seeing is Drasan. This place is located on the northern coast of the island of Lastovo. The shallow, which during low tide is a threat to unwary sailors, offers to the people diving here a steel wreck, from which only the metal structure of the hull and a dozen of antique amphoras lying on the sandy bottom are left. Lovers of underwater fauna can find here red scorpionfishes and lizardfishes, while near the underwater rocks Mediterranean rainbow wrasses, anthiases, cuttlefish, hermit crabs and octopuses sneak around. It is also one of the few places in the Adriatic, where we will meet huge predatory snails Tonna galea.

There are many more charming places around Lastovo, just to mention Struga, Tajan, Glavat, and due to the poor exploration of this reservoir, many beautiful places are probably still undiscovered. However, you do not have to swim far away from the diving base to experience fantastic diving. Just after sunset, enter the water from the wharf near the base and swim towards the bay that closes the island. From the open sea, the bottom here gradually descends to a depth of about 40 meters, and for amateurs of night diving there await among scattered rocks the ubiquitous lobsters, slipper lobsters, crabs, shrimps, snails and, above all, octopuses coming out of hiding for the night hunt.

Planning the next dive trip to Croatia, it is worth taking a look at this distant and forgotten piece of land, surrounded by crystalline waters, because sooner or later the civilization will remember it and change it as has done with the rest of the Adriatic islands.

Malta, Gozo and Comino

your mediterranean dream

welcome to crystal clear waters bursting with life, rich in colourful culture and a history that dates back to the dawn of civilisation. n ot only can you explore the life above and below land, but travel back in time and experience the medieval heritage and the sunken ships of wars. l et us take a quick trip to m alta...

Photo Ivana Orlovic, Blue Hole, Gozo

… a h you have arrived! You step off of the plane and the comforting warmth of the air surrounds you. As you look out of the window on your way to where you’re staying, you see trees and vivid flowers in full bloom, rather sandy yellow ancient buildings and the stunning bay in the distance. You feel a sense of relief to be able to relax with the sound of distant waves crashing against the rocks, and a fresh open mind.

You reach your destination and after unpacking, you excitedly head down to o range s hark h 2 o d ive

Ce N tre to plan your week. As you get closer to the centre, you can already hear the sound of enthusiastic divers talking about the underwater world and carrying tanks ready to head towards the ocean. The dive centre already feels like home as you chat with your new buddies and plan your dives. A coral reef dive today, a shipwreck tomorrow…

b eginner or experienced… it doesn’t M atter. With breathtaking dives and endless choices for all le-

vels, you will never run out or options. The Maltese Archipelago is full of unforgettable underwater scenes. There are more than 30 wrecks from 10 m all the way to 100 m, drop off walls, wonderful caverns full of dancing light and the infamous Blue Hole on Gozo will blow you away.

y ou like photography? Think of Malta’s underwater scene as your new natural studio, with the perfect lighting and surroundings for stunning shots and beautiful blue reflections. Are you an experienced diver? Malta is giving access to divers to reach new and unexplored wrecks and continue to uncover the hidden truths below the cities on land. It is a paradise for you tech divers.

Maybe you are a beginner? At every dive site you are surrounded by a sense of community and trust, and build connections to last a lifetime. Your buddies make this an experience you will never forget.

Photo Marcello Di Francesco, Cirkewwa, Malta
Photo Marcello di Francesco, MV Karwela, Gozo
Photo Ivana Orlovic, Um El Faroud
Photo Ivana Orlovic, Tugboat Rozi, Cirkewwa

a lone or W ith fa M ily and friends , Malta is full of places to visit and things to do. Maybe you visit the medieval city of Mdina where Game of Thrones was filmed. Experience Malta’s history by visiting the incredible Cathederals and Churches across the island. Try out a traditional Pastizzi. Take a trip out to the dreamy Blue Lagoon. Maybe you can just kick your feet up and relax by the sea with a drink and some music.

a ll of that felt like a drea M … right? i t doesn’t have to be just a drea M This is the reality of visiting Malta and coming diving with us at Orange Shark. We are a family owned and run company operating a 5 star instructor development resort, offering diving services and courses from 1st time beginner try dives to instructor development courses. You’ll have the opportunity to dive all year round, from shore or on our fantastic diving boat “PAOLA ONE”. Max, Paola and all the staff are here to show you the best of the Maltese islands. We fill air, nitrox, trimix and can provide any kind of equipment, for rec and tech divers, including Suex DPVs.

It is our pleasure to welcome you to come and visit us. We would love to show you beneath the alluring depths of the Mediterranean Sea. Email us at info@orangeshark.eu to continue this dream…

Photo Ivana Orlovic, Blue Hole, Gozo
Photo Alex Krotkov, Jaskinia Orange Shark, Santa Maria Caves, Comino
Photo Stefano Paganelli, Comino

Seals from Farne Island

text and photos Marcin trZciński

o utside the window there was a raging, stormy sea and a howling wind that was moving powerful foamy waves. The whole view was completed by the blowing rain that was hitting the windows. a  great show of the power of nature, especially attractive since I was sitting in a warm, cozy living room, while another piece of birchwood was burning in the fireplace and the lightning breaking the darkness of the night could be admired safely from behind a wall size window.

Therefore,

you might probably understand that although I did not complain too much about a week's stay in Ireland, I chose a different place when it came to plan another trip to look for seals…

Tiny seahouses did not welcome us with too optimistic weather. Not that it was bad. The storm wandering through the North Sea ended three days ago and the next one was announced only for the next weekend. In spite of the clouds moving across the sky, from which it rained every minute, it seemed that it would be possible to dive. In addition, the breakfast lifted our spirits. We did not have breakfast in the hotel, but on our way to the port we entered the Trotlers Family Bakers located in Main Street. It was more than just a bakery, because they also served breakfast, and a local variety of the Bavarian waitress from Octoberfest standing behind the counter (you know, the one that can carry eight pints of beer in each hand, and a dish of bratwursts on the bust) was doing her best to explain to us all the dishes from the menu written on the wall. However, before we managed to decide on something, she was chased out by brown-haired Ala. The explaining came to an end, and instead, on the table landed a little bit of everything that a student from Wrocław, who was moonlighting there, deemed worthy of the Slavic palate. She considered a few dishes from the menu as inedible…

Well fed and full of optimism, we headed towards the nearby small port. Bill Shields, the owner of the ships sailing to the islands, was not there, but Roger was waiting in his place with a beaming smile. Something happened to his pronunciation because the words that he was throwing with the speed of a machine gun sounded like a gurgle of someone who had a mouth full of stones or moss. Stones or moss immersed in a bucket full of water to make it worse. Perhaps the local slang that he used had a certain impact on the difficulty in understanding him. However, I understood that we were to board the boat Glad Tidings VIII which was moored at the wharf. Roger's index finger was quite helpful, pointing at

the boat with the name written on the superstructure. There was a high tide, so we did not have to carry everything down the stairs. Additionally, we had for ourselves the whole boat, because the rest of the divers waiting at the wharf went to the swaying boat Glad Tidings VI Do not get me wrong – not that I was an antisocial and did not want to fraternise with English divers, but there were twenty of them on board. And there were only six of us. And hence plenty of room for spreading the toys. For a moment we tried to establish with Roger where we want to sail, until finally the vibrations of the hull made me realize that we were moving. We quickly crossed the calm waters protected by the breakwater of the small port and I was already hoping for a quiet half-hour cruise, which would be a nice experience after a rich breakfast, when the first of the waves of the open sea hit the hull. It seems that the post-storm waves have not been extinguished enough to enable me to feel comfortable. Have I already mentioned that I hate waves? So does my inner ear. And as it soon turned out so did my breakfast…

I finished setting up the equipment and without waiting for the rest of the team I jumped into the water. It was still swaying quite strongly and the last thing I wanted was to stay on board. But already at four meters the water calmed down enough that I could catch my breath and start looking around. The visibility was not pampering us, but it was not too bad, seven to eight meters. And besides, something flashed in the front! When I was approaching the island, I saw seals lying on the rocky shore, with huge bodies heavy from summer feeding. It seems that a few of them, apparently interested in our arrival, decided to check what was going on and were now looking at me from a safe distance. I felt a tug on my fin. I thought that Robert or Wojtek were already in the water, keen to tell me something. The tugging did not stop, so I reluctantly looked back to

edinburgh Glasgow
Farne Islands National Nature Reserve FarneisLands

Here i  was a curiosity to be watched, not him. i t swam around me clearly confused, getting closer and closer. a fter a while it was close enough that it almost touched me.

tell off the stalker who seemed to expect my help a few meters below the water's surface. The big eyes of the seal holding my fin in her mouth looked mischievously at me. Oh, no! Here I am, straining my eyes to spot something out of the moving shadows in front of me, and you behave like that?! Besides, several more were waiting behind her in the queue. In addition, one of them was swimming with… the camera? Hmm, after a closer look, it was too much like Wojtek, who was completely unaware of having seals behind him.

It is a funny thing about these seals. While some of them have courage on par with the gladiator Russel Crowe, others have faint hearts and would prefer to watch the course of the action from as far as the Earth's orbit. I was just chasing one of the representatives of the second kind, when a large, at least two meter long individual blocked my way. For a second we were swimming towards a head-on-collision, but at the very last moment he turned left. Do not think that I stood up to the seal. The fact that I did not go sideways to avoid a collision was rather the result of my clumsiness underwater (at least comparing to the fluidity of seal movement) and the fact that I was just… stunned. I looked over my shoulder just to see that my opponent was right behind me, looking at me curiously. Here I was a curiosity to be watched, not him. It swam around me clearly confused, getting closer and closer. After a while it was close enough that it almost touched me. I put out my hand and when it found itself again in front of me, I stroked its back. It jumped away three meters like a lunatic. It stared

suspiciously from a safe distance for a few seconds, and I was sure that it would soon disappear in the depths, when suddenly with a fast movement of its fins it shortened the distance between us. It swam up a dozen centimeters and bent the back for another portion of caresses. Well, I patted it again. And once more. And another one, after each lap. It was like a domestic, fawning puppy, not a wild, two-hundred-kilo animal. If so, I suppose I could teach it something more? When I again had it in front of me, instead of moving my hand on its back, I grabbed it gently by the long fin armed with long claws and shook it lightly. He was stunned. But just for a moment. In a fraction of a second, he broke away from me and again jumped back to a safe distance. We eyeballed each other for a moment. I tried to get the most pleasant expression on my face. Something between Obelix asking for a magic drink and Leonard hoping for a first date with Penny. Although in a mask and with a regulator in my mouth I was probably more like smiling Darth Vader. Or maybe… My puppy was approaching

again, turning over on its back and pulling his fin… towards me! I took it carefully and shook it gently. It moved away again, but only to make a full circle and appear on the left with a stretched-out "hand".

We were doing our high fives again and again, for about five minutes, when Wojtek approached from behind. I did not notice him (I do not have eyes on my the back, you know) but my new friend immediately got stressed. It seems that playing in a triangle was too much even for a tough guy like him.

It glanced uncertainly from a distance, then made a decision and quickly turned away from us to disappear into the sea.

Billy Shields' ships were really diver frendly. Especially friendly was the wide and deeply submerged elevator located on the stern. A brilliant invention. I entered it with all the equipment, and then stood upright on the platform, which after a moment of shaking moved up. Still dripping with water, I dragged myself on the boat's deck, and having put aside my camera I fell heavily on the

nearest bench. The images from the just finished diving were whirling in my head. It is true that I should stop thinking about it till the evening and take care of the replacement of the cylinder for a new one, but everyone on the deck was buzzing with emotions. Apparently we were about to enter the water again, but first we wanted to get out of ourselves the experience of the last hour and a half. For Roger, the sight of crazy men dripping with water, gesturing and shouting at one another had to be an additional bonus in the routine of everyday work.

Bamburgh Castle Inn's large windows faced the small port which was darkening in the evening light. The tide was out and a large part of the boat, instead of floating on the water, was tilted to the side on the slushy sand. But in the warm interior of the pub there was a quiet buzz of conversation over glasses of beer. Although our table was dominated by laptops whose screens were illuminating our faces with their pale light. It was no different at the two neighboring tables, because the English team that we met in the morning in the port were also frantically loading on their hard disks the results of today's dives. We had to wait for the food for a while, although the friendly staff of two Polish women not only suggested what we should order, but also guaranteed priority service. When

I thought about it, I understood those Englishmen who voted for Brexit. Even though at home, they clearly were second-class citizens.

A movie from our dives is available here: https:// vimeo.com/256965926 and because it only takes 4 minutes, you might want to watch it.

Malin Head

text igor bartosZeWicZ photos barry Mcgill

Just a place in Ireland where there are some wrecks. o ne can freely say that fortunes were lost there, and in a sense, many continue to lose them there even today.

My path to this place was long and it was only when I reached it that I realized that I had wanted to go there for over 20 years. But let us start from describing the conscious actions that led me to dive at Malin Head.

Around the years 2012–2013 we started planning a trip to Ireland. I remember that the price then was tremendous – 20 thousand zloty. As I recall, one of the Polish Tri-city diving centers organised a trip

there and it was that kind of money. Lots… The plan was good and we even started the preparations, but unfortunately the trip did not happen.

Then in Ireland appeared Piotruś, commonly known as Dybik. Dybik had been diving for a while, he liked getting into various holes. He is currently diving on a closed circuit and even works as an instructor. We met in 2009 at an instructor course. Piotruś became a PADI instructor and I remember

how hard it was for him to understand that the PADI standard is training with recreational equipment, not with a twin tank.

Changing fortunes led Dybik to Ireland and I found myself there too. In the autumn of 2015, Piotruś called me and asked if I wanted to go to Malin Head. And I did. The money was still big, but we decided to put aside a few hundred euros every month so that in August 2016 it would not "hurt" so much. And so we did, but it still "hurt". The trip was quite expensive. If someone wants to go and dive on an open circuit, it is very expensive.

In total, a team of 7 people came from Poland, including two non-diving women. The rest – also Poles – came from Ireland. All equipped with rebreathers. The captain of the craft from which we could dive was very open with people and if he said he was leaving at 10.00 he would leave at 10.00 without waiting for latecomers for even half a minute.

My first dive took place a day later than the rest of the team's, because the courier company failed to deliver, despite the fact that we had sent the equipment two weeks earlier (and we were still waiting for it 3 weeks after returning). Eventually however I went diving. I remember the first dive just to warm up. 70 meters. SS Justicia. Sunk on July 20, 1918, after two days of being hunted and fired at. On July 19th, the German submarine UB64 fired four torpedoes at Justicia despite the fact that she was escorted by destroyers. The ship did not sink at first. She continued sailing. The engines worked, and additionally she was taken in tow by the tugboat Sonia. Her escort took care of UB-64, but the submarine managed to escape. The next day UB-124 hit SS Justicia with two torpedoes and after the evacuation of the crew the ship sank. Sixteen sailors died. UB-124 was not as lucky as UB-64 because the HMS Marne, HMS Milbrook and HMS Pigeon first treated her with depth charges, and then finished her off on the surface.

While entering the water there was a light wave, but a "sea dog" like me was already feeling like vomit-

ting. I succeeded though. I jumped into the water and we went down along the shot line. The water transparency was 20 meters and its temperature was some 14–15 degrees. At 30 meters I stopped and left a carabiner with my name and went further down. After 45 meters, we began to see the outline of the wreck. Wonderful. The skipper hit the target and threw the rope very close to the most characteristic place on SS Justicia, the bow. It was magnificent, destroyed by rust. One hundred years spent underwater and the sea currents did their job, but it looked great in the light we cast on it. Particularly the anchor hanging on the side. You can get inside the wreck. It is all ripped, but there are places that you can penetrate.

Can you find something interesting? I doubt it. The wreck is visited so often that you have to be lucky to find anything of interest. Seafood lovers will have something to do there. There are a lot of lobsters on the wreck, the size of a forearm, with claws larger than the hand of an adult male. In the nooks and crannies of the boat you can see lobster traps. They are in such places that they certainly were put there by divers, because it would not be possible to do it from the surface. Unfortunately, the traps were empty, maybe just had been set, but the lobsters were moving around here and there.

It was time to emerge. At 30 meters I unhooked my carabiner and started ascending in order to do the decompression. There was plenty of space at the deco bar, enough for 10 divers, even if they were at the same depth. The last one to unhook his carabiner was obliged to release the deco bar from the line. Then we all started to drift. The guys on the boat quickly rolled up the main line and followed us all the time watching us. After some time, another shot line appeared next to our deco bar with a place to attach unnecessary stage tanks. In this way, at a depth of 6 meters, we hung with one oxygen stage tank and that is how we entered the boat. Of course there was an elevator. Before I left the elevator, I already had my fins removed. The service – full professionalism. A great dive. Now I could only wait for the rest. Only that the boat was

i t was magnificent, destroyed by rust. One hundred years spent underwater and the sea currents did their job, but it looked great in the light we cast on it. Particularly the anchor hanging on the side.

starting to rock. Yes, it was! Finally, we set off on the return journey, which unfortunately "finished off" almost everyone.

On the last day we dived on the ss e mpire Heritage at the depth of 68 meters. this is a place where s herman tanks lie scattered like lego blocks after children finished playing with them. the impression we got during the immersion was priceless.

The next days looked very similar. We got up in the morning, ate a big breakfast and rode to the boat making sure we were not late. We dived, we came back, we worked on the equipment. Then we drove to a nearby pub to eat something. Every day the dives were getting longer and more interesting. The smallest shipwreck we ever saw was SS Laurentic which lies at a depth of 39 meters. She carried 43 tonnes of gold. Apparently two more tonnes are still there somewhere.

Probably in the homes of professional divers who found them.

With each passing day we spent more and more time on the bottom. It looked as if everybody had realised that every next day brought us closer to the end of the expedition and wanted to extend their stay as much as possible. On the last day we dived on the SS Empire Heritage at the depth of 68 meters. This is a place where Sherman tanks lie scattered like lego blocks after children finished playing with them. The impression we got during the immersion was priceless.

If you have not been to Malin Head, go there. If you think that it is big money, it means that you still have a sense of the value of money, but in my opinion it is worth it. Remember also that when you go there for the first time you will just do the classics, and then you will want to go deeper. So you must reckon with two trips.

www.podwodnaprzygoda.pl

On the bottom of the North Sea

Wojciech Zgoła is talking to Bartłomiej Grynda, the owner of the GRALmarine company, a lover of wrecks, archaeology, an inventor of underwater vehicles, cameras and lighting.

were scientists from IOPAN, engineers from GRALmarine and one researcher from the Norwegian University.

bartek, we talked previously about your involvement in many water-related projects in different regions of the world. you were an active participant in the daiMon project. What project it was?

It was an international project in which the states located over the Baltic Sea took part. The main aim of the project was to determine the risk posed for the aquatic environment by chemical and conventional weapons sunk in the sea. The program has been financed by EU INTERREG for the Baltic Sea Region since 2014 and will finish in 2020.

Who participated in the project? What did the research involve?

Apart from the experienced crew, on board there

The research was to be carried out at the exit of the Skagerrak Strait to the North Sea, in a place where, in 1945, ships filled with chemical weapons were sunk.

It took us a few days to reach the position, and immediately after arriving we managed to lower our camera to the bottom, at the depth of about 650 meters. We wanted to check how strong the currents were at the bottom and what visibility was there. We encountered quite unfavourable conditions – a strong current and visibility of 2–3 m. Each, even the slightest touch of the bottom with the camera caused a significant decrease in visibility.

When we finished the operation in the evening, we received a message about the upcoming stormy weather. We only had a few hours on the next day to do research, and then we had to call at a port to wait for the storm to pass. Despite

photos bartłoMiej grynda

difficult conditions, it was possible to leave GRALmarine ROV at the bottom, at the depth of 690 meters.

What did you see at the bottom?

The vehicle filmed the bottom at a depth of approx. 590 meters. I was surprised by the abundance of life at such a depth. Below 30–40 m it was pretty dark. It seemed that we would not encounter many organisms, however, on the screen we could observe many of them, such as shrimps, round crabs, as well as creatures unknown to me, such as "tiddlywinks" jumping in the light of lamps. A big cod, swimming at the bottom, was a surprise for us.

these were just observations. how about the research of the bottom?

We had to take samples at distances of 10, 50, 100, 150 and 250 meters from the wreck. For this purpose, we used the "lander" – a device constructed jointly by the Maritime Institute and GRALmarine. The Maritime Institute made a metal structure with a turntable (carousel), which could take 10 samples from the bottom during

it was an international project in which the states located over the Baltic sea took part. the main aim of the project was to determine the risk posed for the aquatic environment by chemical and conventional weapons sunk in the sea.

one immersion, while we (GRALmarine) created electric drives, a computer controlling sampling, power supply, monitoring with HD cameras and lighting.

did the contact with chemical weapons pose a threat?

We didn't know to what degree the equipment, which had contact with the bottom contaminated with chemical weapons, especially mustard gas, could be dangerous. For safety reasons, the ROV and "lander" were inspected with a detector of contaminations at all times, and the operators were dressed in protective suits. Fortunately, the detectors didn't detect any threat.

i  do not know if anyone in Poland has ever tested their equipment at a depth of almost 600 meters. we managed to do this. we have videos from this depth.

does this mean that the bottom is not contaminated?

To check this, the "lander" took many samples within a dozen meters from the wreck's position. Initial measurements did not show any pollution with mustard gas.

Unfortunately, further measurements were thwarted by the weather. The waves prevented submersion of the equipment. Though the "lander" was lowered with a lift on a steel line (weighting about 400 kg), the optical fibre (thanks to which it was possible to control, and above all, observe the image from 4 HD cameras), did not withstand the pressure of the waves.

After the fibre optic was damaged and in the absence of optimistic weather forecast, the captain decided to finish the expedition and go back.

a long journey and little time for research. What is the balance of profits and losses?

The main profit is gathering huge experience for further construction of submersible vehicles. I do not know if anyone in Poland has ever tested their equipment at a depth of almost 600 meters. We managed to do this. We have videos from this depth.

ROV GRALmarine was designed and constructed especially for this trip. Its predecessor, which I lost in a fire, the conqueror of Hranice Abyss, gained a worthy successor.

We are planning, maybe even this year, to try the equipment again in Hranice Abyss at a greater depth.

thank you very much for the interview and i wish you successes!

Sidemount

text toMasZ jeżeWski jeżu photos grZegorZ ŚWiątnicki is it worth switching? and if yes how to begin?

The sidemount configuration has recently become popular. But let us not kid ourselves – it’s happening mainly due to the manufacturers of diving equipment. a  new product emerged, there was a niche for it, so marketing and sales started. That's life…

The sidemount configuration has recently become popular. But let us not kid ourselves – it’s happening mainly due to the manufacturers of diving equipment. A new product emerged, there was a niche for it, so marketing and sales started. That's life…

The same happened with certification agencies, they also reacted commercially.

So now we have a package: both equipment and trainings are widely available. They are sometimes better and sometimes worse, but their quality is not the subject of this article.

OK, so what is this sidemount? And what is it needed for? And is it worthwhile to bother with this setup of underground origin? (maybe invented in hell? ;) And also, there are often questions whether this or that can be done using the sidemount.

Let’s be honest, the truth is that there are dives for which the sidemount is not at all the best (though it may sound to some divers like a heresy).

Faced with the decision about further diving education and buying diving equipment, you should first think about it yourself. And after that discuss it with someone who has more knowledge on the subject. You should ask yourself what dives are your dream dives, which ones you are longing and

waiting for and for which you are willing to save your hard earned money.

r eady? s o let's discuss W ith ourselves the follo W ing points:

1. Is your diving destination Number One a summer safari in Egypt? Do you go there once a year and dive on coral reefs or chase reef sharks? And perhaps you already have your favourite wet suit and recreational diving regulator in matching colours? In that case starting a new sidemount configuration means replacing your whole equipment (sometimes even the mask too) and it involves significant costs. And the training means additional costs too. Training is always great, as it's worth developing and learning something new, but for that money you can go for another safari in Egypt. And all your safaris can be done without the sidemount! Diving with a single cylinder on your back is in no way worse!

The best diver is not the person utilizing a technical setup, with serious face. And with a look of an uncle who is looking down at colourful greenhorns, who are not able to trim, keep order and who show with a thumb up (or even two thumbs) that the dive is great.

Mexico

The best diver is the one who enjoys diving and shares this joy with others. If there is a need, it can even be colourful!;)

So, if the above mentioned diving goal is yours, the sidemount is not necessary. You will definitely do without sidemount! (though it is perfectly OK to use one if you have it).

2. Maybe the truth is that you like diving in black? That you worship Gods of Perfect Buoyancy and Trim? And that the biggest pleasure is hovering in midwater? And perhaps you already have a tech twin setup and you are very happy with it? If yes, you don't really need sidemount. Choosing it would mean disloyalty to your beloved configuration, and maybe also to your friends. And additionally painful costs – buying new and selling old equipment, would of course mean a loss…

And to make it clear, I'm not joking here! If someone gets so much pleasure from the diving as such, let's show our support. Why change any configuration if the present one is so much fun! So if this is your case the answer is sidemount is probably not for you. OK, so far the result is 2:0!

3. And maybe you can hear depths calling? Maybe for you only deep dives are real dives? In the Big Blue or in your computer – depending on what you usually look at;).

Well, there are sidemount stages! (stages are extra cylinders, dangling here and there depending on the configuration).

So maybe take as many, as possible and go down? No, unfortunately it turns out that with sidemount it's not that easy.

Surprised? Why not easy if there are Tec Side Mount training programs?

The real questions are how deep you want to dive and what your goal is.

If you want to go down the line and tap the marker with the record depth (or the bottom) it is quite likely possible with trimix in sidemount cylinders. But on your back you can carry two eighteens, or maybe even twenties, and at your sides not really. Arguably you can dive with eight or ten cylinders, and instead of two twenties take four elevenths. It will give you even more trimix, so so far it seems great! But take into account HPNS, tunnel vision, trembling hands and narcosis. They may affect your otherwise smooth and efficient (emergency)

Mexico

operating of four bottom cylinders and their four regulators, and travel and deco gases (probably another four cylinders).

Well, so after all in this case the sidemount is not the best choice. It's better to tap the depth marker with the cylinders on your back (and if with trimix, then definitely with a closed circuit) – according to the philosophy of sidemount – the less the better. So it is 3:0.

4. Wrecks! Exploration, penetration! From the bow to the stern, inside of the bilges, along the keel. Or along the diffusers. Between the layers of the hull of the fuselage. Clamps, molings, calluses. A torn suit!

Probably there have already dived the ones with twins, and maybe even with single backmount cylinder. But there always remains a window or a porthole, through which you can squeeze – necessarily putting the cylinders in front of you or even removing them from the harness. It looks cool in the photos and under water the divers with cylinders on their backs look with admiration (or surprise, but it does not actually matter).

Well, so theoretically you could buy all this sidemount equipment and take a course how to squeeze through portholes in wrecks. If this only gives you a real joy in diving then indeed, with the

sidemount you can actually get through a smaller porthole than wearing a cylinder on your back. But buying the whole sidemount gear just for this? Again, it’s probably not the best idea. It is 4:0, and there is not even a break…

5. Of course: caves!

Tight, Dark. Cool cave equipment! You can undress and push forward forever! Discover the undiscovered. Hooray!

Well, it turns out that the sidemount is so cool that it will allow us to dive in the cave with ease at a very large distance. Even to where we should not get at all. So far, that the equipment only will cope with this, but not its owner. Tight, dark and far from home… too far to come back.

Of course, there are such caves in the world, where it is recommended to dive – even from the very entrance – with the sidemount. There even are places where it is forbidden to dive in any configuration other than sidemount. Recommendations or prohibitions in such cases are connected with environmental protection – diving in a more extensive configuration may cause damage to the interior of the cave. If you want to dive in such places often, thn of course it is worth changing the configuration. If once in a lifetime – it's better to change the

Gruner See

sidemount – properly configured – makes you start to perceive diving differently. suddenly, it turns out that you can do much more under water.

dive site – the fun is the same (or it can turn out even bigger in larger caves), and the savings are significant.

5:0 until half-time.

Oops… so what's on with this sidemount? Well, it turns out that it is worthwhile!

t o begin W ith the trite and obvious:

security.

By its very nature, sidemount assumes the use of two completely independent life support systems in extremely hostile environmental conditions –that is, you have underwater two cylinders and two

regulators. If something happens with a regulator, a valve, a pressure gauge or your brain, and suddenly there is nothing to breathe with, then – instead of calling a partner and asking him or her to share their yellow regulator – you start to breathe from our own second cylinder. And that's it. Easier. Quite stress free. Much safer. Even compared to the technical twin. Security increased.

5:1.

In fact the security is doubled. For this reason it is always worthwhile!

5:2!

convenience.

Of course you can take the sidemount into the water "in parts". One cylinder to the water. The other cylinder to the water. And finally you to the water. If there are any stairs along the way, or an escarpment, it's easier to carry everything separately than to lug all the load at once, like a Sherpa in the Himalayas.

5:3.

And maybe somebody from the surface will pass it to you prior to the dive and will take it ashore after the dive – super convenient!

5:4!

furthermore there is additional comfort under water!

Contrary to appearances and all expectations, it turns out that these two cylinders with tangled hoses, dangling on the sides, are easier to use under water than a single cylinder on the back! :-O It is worthwhile! You must try it.

5:5!

a nd offbeat? Well, that's the essence of choosing this configuration!

freedom!

Sidemount – properly configured – makes you start to perceive diving differently. Suddenly, it turns out that you can do much more under water. Hovering or moving in any position into any direction is not a problem, it even becomes obvious and ordinary! It turns out that you can begin to behave naturally in the environment you are visiting temporarily. You can start diving freely! Like fish!

5:6

Apart from the relief associated with underwater freedom, there comes also versatility. When you switch to sidemount, you can dive in any environment. On the reef, to watch anemones or seahorses at the depth of 5m and in caves at a 3-hour

distance from the entrance (there usually are no anemones…).

5:7

The unconventional and unobvious advantages of the sidemount configuration are best reflected by the change in the attitude of those divers who were sceptical about their first attempt of such a dive, and yet they tried it. Their eyes after surfacing say it all – even if the seriousness and the majesty of the diver is still preserved on their faces. It is also then, that they often stop asking whether it is possible to make a hundred in this configuration… maybe even this hundred is no longer the goal. And the new goal is diving itself!

5:8 – The end.

But, to make it happen as I wrote in the previous paragraph, you have to approach it accordingly.

a nd ho W to look for the right instructor?

Online there are perhaps as many diving training offers as the dating ones. Everybody is the best, some even are the best in both;)

So it's worth to bother a bit about it, to look and ask around. First you have to ask yourself, what you need this sidemount for. Where and how do you Steve Bogaerts in Poland

…the basic rule when choosing one should be whether he/she develops theirs skills as a diver. w here and how often they train.

want to dive? Once you honestly answer these questions, you should look for such an instructor, who not only dives like that on regular basis, but also in conditions similar to the conditions of your dream dives.

The same old rule applies, which applies to all other diving trainings. The basics are taught best not by a rebreather instructor, but by an "ordinary" instructor doing this every day and having the biggest experience in it. Similarly the best teacher of cave diving is not the one with certificates confirming everything, but the one who lives next to a cave and dives actually only there, because to a lake or to the sea it is too far.

With the sidemount trainings you can also look for someone who deals mainly with the beginners – that is teaching diving with this configuration. And then you can train further with someone who performs more advanced sidemount diving on a daily basis. With the later instructor you can sometimes get the proper training for beginners, but doing advanced levels with the former one is at your own risk.

It seems that in addition to the "live check" of the instructor, the basic rule when choosing one should be whether he/she develops theirs skills as a diver. Where and how often they train. The truth is

that there are maybe two divers in the world, who do not have anybody to be trained by (since they are the best). All the others who do not develop themselves are either not willing to do it, or follow the philosophy of reinventing the wheel… It is a waste of time.

Once you find a candidate to become your Guru, remember, do ask your instructor "why?". Ideally, ask about everything. About the technique (why should I bend my leg like this?), about the training (why do I need to know this?) and about the equipment (why are there five wings to choose from?).

If the answers satisfy you – then learn from such an Instructor! :-)

Oh! One more thing – the fact that one has two hundred films on YT or five hundred posts on FB (and especially if one writes articles in dive magazines;-)) neither means that he or she knows the answers to your questions "why?", nor that he or she is a good instructor. You should always check if such a person is good as a teacher.

Wish you diving safely and with a smile!

Jeżu

A beginner lover of the sidemount

The Veneto region

The Veneto region in Italy is a must for every cave diver. Today we will bring you closer to the four most famous caves in this area.

photos bartłoMiej pitala
text irena kosoWska
Elefante Bianco Cave

When planning a dive in the Veneto region, it is worth remembering that a special permit is needed for cave diving – it is a formality dealt with electronically, but without permission you may not be able to dive.

Choosing to explore the caves of Veneto for a few days, it is worth picking Bassano del Grappa as a starting point. The distance from Bassano to all the caves is more or less the same (although in different directions), and it is here that we find the best logistical facilities – a multitude of hotels, guesthouses or agrotourism allow for a quite big choice of accommodation, supplemented by a large selection of shops, restaurants, pizzerias etc. In addition, beautiful views and walking paths are also a reason to recommend this place. The key fact is that just a few kilometers from Bassano,

in Rosa, there is the only well-equipped dive shop in the area: Blue Deep Shop. At Blue Deep Shop, we can refill with all the necessary gases (air, oxygen, helium) and we will complete the equipment if something is missing. A very big surprise is the price of helium – probably the cheapest in Europe (spring 2019 – 0.03 cents/l)

When traveling to Italy for cave diving, it is worth remembering the difficult logistics of these trips. Long, steep, wet access to rising springs, hours spent on transporting equipment – you will need good shoes, dry bags or large backpacks that can fit stage cylinders. It will be a good idea to get enough supplies of food and beverages – the dives themselves are demanding, so after them it is worth securing a portion of energy before we start to collect equipment.

Fontanazzi Cave

di ponte subiolo ( e lefante b ianco)

Valstagna, Veneto

The rising spring is located in Valstagna. The passageway to the dive site is unusual – we climb the stairs, quite a number of steps, pass residential buildings, pass through private vegetable gardens and a small vineyard. The path along the edge of the cliff brings us to a steep slope, which leads us to the very shore of a charming lake. In this lake is the entrance to the cave.

Geographical coordinates of the car park: 45 52,15N 11 40,08E

The distance from the car park to the water is about 100 meters, but the hardships of this route mean it takes a dozen or so minutes one way. During one of the trips after parking, we measured the distance with a pedometer. Carrying the equipment and returning the same route afer diving showed on the pedometer the total travelled distance of 2 kilometers (!).

The entrance to the cave is located at a depth of about 20 m – depending on the state of the water, at the bottom of the lake. It is large and leads to quite a spacious, steep downward passage. This passage after about 100 m leads to a huge well at a depth of 50 m. The well has a diameter of a dozen or so meters and falls vertically to

a depth of 70 m, and at a depth of about 80 m, there is another corridor, which exceeds a depth of 100 meters. However, if you do not want to explore large depths, after leaving the passage, you should see the upper parts of the cave, over the well there is a huge chamber, bristling with sharp, beautiful rocks. Because of the sharp edges of the rocks, it is difficult to install safety railing there. We should remember about good planning and gas management, because the ceiling of the chamber is at a depth of only about a dozen meters, but the only way back is through the aforementioned passage, to which we must return to a depth of 50 meters.

covol dei siori ( g rotte di o liero), covol dei veci ( g rotte di o liero) Oliero, Veneto

Oliero Park is an attraction not only for us, cave divers, but also for tourists – hence it is very easy to find it in the town of the same name. A significant obstacle is the need to obtain a permit for diving in the park beforehand, unfortunately it cannot be done on the spot. The park charges admission fees, but employees are happy to show the way to rising springs and instruct on how to move in the area.

Geographical coordinates of the car park:

45 50,47N 11 40,03E

laghetto
milan
verona Padua
tHe venetO reGiOn caves
Oliero Cave

The logistics of Oliero Park, where there are two diving caves – Veci and Siori – is certainly difficult. The distances from the car park to water are about 600 and 300 meters respectively, however, going with the equipment on narrow steep paths, leading uphill, downhill, is not a pleasant experience.

The rising spring Veci is huge. The spacious corridor descends steeply to a depth of 55 meters. Swimming through the passage, we will change the depth in the range of 40 to 60 meters.

In turn, Siori, whose entrance is at the bottom of the lake inside the cave, can be reached by boat in which park employees transport tourists. The passage is a dozen or so meters wide, but very low, sometimes only half a meter high. The cave is famous for very strong currents. The first 150 meters of the corridor leads us to a depth of about 20 meters, then it descends to 55 meters and through another gentler shallow water again leads us to 50 meters.

The Veci and Siori cave systems are connected, however one dive in them as a whole requires special equipment (rebreathers, scooters).

grotta dei fontanaZZi Solagna, Veneto

The cave is located in an unobvious place, it is very easy to miss it, even going along the road with the same name – Via Fontanazzi. There is no parking lot or any other place that allows you to safely set up the equipment. We have to park our car at the edge of the road and we go down the path that leads directly to the river flowing out of steep rocks – this is the entrance to Fontanazzi.

Geographical coordinates of the parking place: 45 49,54N 11 42,04E.

This cave is not recommended for beginners due to the clamps in its initial parts, the entrance itself is considered difficult. However, if we manage to get through the entrance, many possibilities of exploration open up. In this cave more than two kilometers of corridors have been explored and depths exceeding 100 meters have been recorded.

www.speleologiaveneta.it https://www.facebook.com/BlueDeepShop/ www.cave-diving.pl

Fontanazzi Cave

Te C hnology B eh I nd

T he B e ST dry

S

u

ITS

I n T he world

e very day, any moment, we are working so that divers can overcome new barriers and discover what is still unexplored in a safe and comfortable way.

Not only are we in your element, but we actually were born there. The BARE brand is a child of two divers who wanted to create a dry suit that would withstand the extreme conditions prevailing in the Pacific Ocean off the coast of Canada. Each stitch meant another innovation of our founders, and each failure inspired them to seek new solutions. Their goal was not to profit, but to prepare a product that would meet their expectations: a more functional, better adjusted and more durable diving suit. Since 1972 we have been constantly moving boundaries, introducing new innovations to the market, such as omnired's highly successful thermal technology or breathable no-stitch technology. We are committed to creating innovative, solid and comfortable products. We create every suit with heart and passion, because our designers, like the founders of our company, not only do they develop the suits, but also dive in them

Designing and subsequent modelling of BARE products is carried out using the advanced gerber systems. Our projects are carried out in Canada by our team of designers, whilst the production process is carried out in a factory on Malta. Both branches of our company use the same IT platform, thanks to which we avoid even the smallest mistakes.

BARE is an exclusive brand – to ensure optimal quality, the production of dry suits is supported by many technical departments. The quality and engineering departments support research, development and production to achieve the highest standards in the industry. The Department of Quality consists of a manager who runs a team of three inspectors. Before cutting the material, the system is set up and checked by suitably trained technicians. To ensure an optimal result, all machines are regularly calibrated.

All incoming materials are inspected by our quality expert using special equipment designed for this purpose. All defects and holes are marked, and the defective areas are removed. After the material control process is completed, we proceed to the cutting out of all the elements of dry suits.

The simultaneous cutting out of many suits' panels is prepared in a special software and then transferred to the Gerber cutter's queue.

The cutter operator selects the material to be cut, sets all parameters for the selected material type. Cutting out takes place automatically. the advantage of the automatic cutting machine is that the quality of the cut parts is extremely high. After cutting out, all pieces are stacked together and sorted by size. To avoid errors when sorting cut-out items, the upper screen shows instructions on how to sort cut panels.

We have invested in the necessary equipment to ensure optimal control of all chemical and mechanical connections in our dry suits. The example in the picture is the viscosity meter that measures the viscosity of the glue. The adhesives, which are critical components of our products, are mixed by one person in a room specially prepared for this purpose.

Each BARE dry suit before it leaves the factory is tested for leaks under very stringent conditions. The pressure used to perform the leak tests to which the suits are subject is one of the highest in the industry.

All production procedures are rigorously controlled by our production staff and quality team.

sCuBa divinG and FreedivinG On tHe same day

with the growing popularity of such sport discipline as freediving, we ask ourselves about the safety of combining scuba diving using compressed gas and breath-hold dives on the same day.

Photo Kurt Arrigo for DAN

i f you dive on a held breath before scuba diving

The answer will depend on the intensity and depth achieved in the freediving training. If you dive a few times (2–3 times) on a held breath virtually effortlessly and at small depths (12–15 meters), you can dive with compressed gas with no fear, taking 30 to 60 minutes of surface interval before starting the scuba dive. At the same time, if you reach deeper depths and strain the body with a lot of effort, such as underwater crossbow hunts, you will need a much longer surface interval, though we do not have enough data to give you precise time frame suggestions.

i f you go scuba diving before diving on a held breath

In the opposite situation, if you decide to practice freediving on the same day after scuba diving, you have to take into account other factors. First of

all, after scuba diving you are partially still saturated with inert gases, which you would normally take into consideration while planning another scuba diving. Freediving requires physical effort, which obviously affects the blood circulation in the body, and as we know, after the dive, rest is recommended to allow the desaturation of tissues.

At the same time, while diving on a held breath in a relatively short time interval we compress gas bubbles already present in the bloodstream, which may pose a risk of these bubbles getting into the pulmonary filter and into the arterial circulation more quickly.

It is also worth noting that freediving, like scuba diving, is a team sport and always requires someone else for security. Particularly after long, deep, demanding dives on the held breath, there may occur symptoms associated with the formation of

What are the dan guidelines for co M bining these t W o sports on the sa M e day?
Photo Irena Stangierska for DAN

bubbles similar to the symptoms of decompression sickness in scuba divers. This syndrome is referred to as Tarawana and can range from mild nausea, dizziness or headache, to serious problems with eyes, hearing or speech or to unconsciousness, paralysis and, in the worst case, death.

a nd so…

It should be emphasized that in any case, it is not good to burden the body with a large amount of inert gas. Therefore, a more conservative recommendation will be not to combine freediving and scuba diving on the same day, if the dives are long, deep and requiring a lot of effort. Of course, each dive and each body is different, but it's always worth being more careful than less.

In conclusion, if you make repetitive dives on a held breath deeper than 15 meters, putting a lot of the effort, it is better not to go scuba diving on the

same day. Even a long surface interval between these dives does not eliminate the risk of overloading the bloodstream with bubbles. Being conscious divers, simply avoid the risk.

To learn more and find answers to medical questions related to diving, visit www.daneurope.org and www.alertdiver.eu

source:

Detection of venous gas emboli after repetitive breath-hold dives: case report – D. Cialoni et al., UHM 2016 www.alertdiver.eu

Photo Kurt Arrigo for DAN

A return from diving

not always happy

text and photos agniesZka kalska

In the last issue I wrote about what to pack in your suitcase for the journey and how legally “smuggle” it onto the plane. h ere I'll mention situations that do not happen often, but for which you should be prepared.

Even if the journey to a dive site went smoothly one way, without additional charges or stress, we cannot be sure that the return will be equally successful.

I really do not know the reason or do not even guess why, but in touristic diving sites the staff at the airport is not always friendly to foreign passengers, let alone divers. It would seem that they should care for a tourist to be happy while leaving the place to come back there as soon as possible and ensure work and money for people in the tourism industry. However, I experienced a few situations so unpleasant that I even thought to choose a completely different destination next time. I have particularly bad experience with the passport control on my return from Eilat (Israel) – whoever tried to get from there to Egypt, certainly knows what I mean. In my case, stamps from various parts of the world in my passport, especially the one from the United Arab Emirates, were the reason to put my name on the "list of suspects". This meant waiting for an in-

terview with a trained European who was supposed to detect any possible lies. For exactly 30 minutes I watched my passport being handed over from one guard to another who, being in no hurry, talked carelessly to each other. What, whom and how long I was supposed to wait for was a pure mystery, and despite my freediving patience and completely clean conscience, the sense of irritation and anxiety gently began to grow inside me... and this was exactly the effect that guards wanted to achieve. When everyone around was already questioned, it was the turn to look for any "sins" I might have been guilty of. Listening to the questions: where I was, what I did, whether I had friends among the Egyptians, whether I kept in touch with them and what I did every day, I felt as if I had done something against the law and they already had evidence to prove that. Unfortunately for me, to the question whether I had been asked to transport anything I said that I had a laptop of a friend who had left the country the day before and forgot to take it with her... An “alarm” switched on and the laptop was taken for a detailed control.

Apart from looking at it and scanning from any possible angle, it was also also weighed and switched on... fortunately, there were no photos with local guides on the desktop! When I finally went through the whole process of personal verification, there was still my luggage to be checked...

As usual, the suit and clothes pressed and packed to take a minimum volume, were separated by other items necessary for a freediver. Everything fitted exactly to the shape of the suitcase and after opening it, the content almost popped out. It was nothing, I had time to pack the entire puzzle again. There was also a bag with a monofin and fins, which, to put it mildly, dimensionally did not meet my needs, and the protruding edges were additionally secured with foil, tape, a piece of key-leash and a padlock. Although there was nothing more inside but rubber and plastic, the whole content had to be unpacked so that the service staff could finger everything carefully. After the inspection the guard thanked me and left me with all the luggage to repack. Cool, after all, everybody loves doing it several few times.

Finally just the check-in was awaiting me... No luck had I also this time. Just before my turn the power was cut off and the entire check-in management system went dead. After another dozen or so minutes, a "manual check-in" was started and everyone was put down on a paper list...

Eventually, I got to the plane and landed safely in the destination country, but this trip was inscribed in my memory as a route that should be avoided or at least the one during which you should get properly prepared for psychological harassment.

Will the direct return from Egypt be less stressful? Of course, if we prepare for it.

Recently, on me way back with my students, we heard at the airport in Sharm el Sheikh that we had to pay € 35.00 for the diving equipment we had in our checked baggage. My amazement reached the point of disbelief. The gentleman from the service (inte-

restingly dealing with the queue next to ours) entered into a deeper polemic, which items can be transported in a suitcase in the price of luggage, and which cannot. He tried to prove to us that we had diving equipment (breathing apparatus or other diving stuff) and that we had to pay extra for it. When we showed that we didn't have any such things in our hand luggage or main baggage, he switched to a different strategy. He mentioned that the fins and masks were also sports equipment, and an additional fee should have been paid. I was already extremely amazed and finally asked – "And if I had jogging shoes in my luggage, should I also pay additionally for them?". The man finally gave up because he sensed that he would not cheat us, but we understood that this practice had been exercised many times before.

Remember that we must follow the instructions of the employees, but only if they are able to explain them and indicate the appropriate regulations. Always ask for all possible solutions, and the service will at least try to help you solve the problem.

underwater arCHeOLOGist

scientist or treasure hunter

w hen we hear or read about people called underwater archeologists, we usually have the sea before our eyes... preferably the Caribbean Sea, warm, with azure water. a  young, athletic, very tanned man wearing just shorts is standing on a slightly rusted ship getting ready to jump into the water. u nderwater, a Spanish galleon full of secrets and gold coins awaits him.

Actually,

this description is the first scene from the movie "Fool's gold" with Matthew McConaughey. The description of this scene should be enriched with the beautiful blond-haired lady scientist who reads fluently in all the ancient languages of the world. All in all, Kate Hudson fits this role well. But does the work of an underwater archeologist really look like that? Are we more scientists or treasure hunters?

My name is Mateusz and I have been an underwater archeologist for almost 9 years. The main character of the aforementioned movie and myself have only one thing in common – long blond hair. Except that mine is longer. When I tell newly met people what I do, I usually get a comment: "wooow, but you have great work, you probably travel a lot and search for wrecks". After a thousandth such comment I stopped verifying the interlocutors' ideas about my work. If they knew how wrong they were...

text and photos MateusZ popek

I hope that this text will give you some idea about underwater archeologists and what they really do.

Let us start from the beginning, that is from what one must do to become the mythical underwater archeologist. First, archaeological studies should be completed. Unfortunately, there are no shortcuts. In Poland, the studies have two stages and you must obtain a master's degree and have twelve months of field practice to be allowed to begin practising your profession. Each country has its own law regulating who can conduct archaeological research. It would also be good to do a diving course during the studies. Usually, the day after its completion, students think that they have already become underwater archeologists. Life, however, verifies this quickly. In my and my colleagues' opinion, for a person to become really useful in a project, two to three months of practice during an underwater excavation are needed. Of course, it is very individual and some "get the idea" faster, others a bit slower. During the internships, such people learn to work in the field: searching, setting up excavations, exploration, documentation and many other tasks... and there are plenty of these skills to acquire. It can be assumed that after twelve months of decent practice and five years of study, such a person has the knowledge and skills to conduct underwater research.

Now one can finally jump into the water and make great discoveries. But where? Wrecks in the sea or bridges and sediments in lakes are not found in every bay and at every promontory. Choosing a research problem is a long and intense office and archival work. Sometimes we work on random finds reported by divers or a company working on a construction project, but usually we have to spend a lot of time and browse through a lot of books to choose an area where new archaeological sites can be expected. This work is done during the long autumn and winter evenings.

Once a body of water is selected, is it time to jump in?

Absolutely not. Now the time has come for the most important factor, that is money, and underwater

research is relatively expensive. Funds for research projects are usually obtained from grants. There are many European and national organisations where you can apply for research funding. Usually it is done through a competition, that is, we fill in a form that usually contains the formal and descriptive parts and the budget part. In the first part we write who we are and why it is worth giving us money, in the second we describe what we would like to do and how we will do it, and in the third part, how much money we need for it. Writing such a grant application often takes months, then we have to submit it to the appropriate unit, wait several months up to even a year and if we are better than our competitors, we will get money for research.

usually, we work in conditions very different from the "Caribbean" ones. in the team, we even have a saying that the best archeology is in the water as dense as mud and as black as night, and this really works.

It is still not the moment yet when we can jump into the water. Nowadays archaeological research is preceded by the so-called non-invasive prospection. It means that we hire a suitable company or institution, which, using complicated devices such as a multi-beam echosounder, a side-scan sonar, or a bottom sediment profilograph, helps us to narrow down our research or even find archaeological objects. After receiving the processed data, we dwell on them and try to select places to search or research.

And now we can jump into the water without feeling remorse that we are badly prepared. If we have some luck, we find an archaeological object very quickly. They can be wrecks, flooded settlements, bridges, aqueous sediments and any other objects which man has thrown into the water over the centuries. When we find something we need to explore it or simply dig it out. For this we need an ejector that we have to build ourselves, because it is impossible to buy one off the shelf. At least I did not find a store which would sell them. During the exploration, we acquire artefacts. Each artefact must be documented, described, photographed and taken into the inventory. There is a lot of paperwork that needs to be done right after a dive. We also make documentation of immovable objects in the form of three-dimensional plans or models. Consequently, an underwater archeologist should know a little about geodesy, underwater photography and the processing of point clouds.

Usually, we work in conditions very different from the "Caribbean" ones. In the team, we even have a saying that the best archeology is in the water as dense as mud and as black as night, and this really works. Unfortunately, we do not have much choice of the place where we work and the water often has absolute zero visibility and sometimes it even smells of methane. To give you an idea, it is the smell of rotten eggs. The period of work in the field is usually from one to several months a year

depending on the climate in which we work, how much money we have and what plan we want to do. When working in the field, we produce huge amounts of data and documentation, which should then be dealt with.

When the season of field work is over and we have done our dozens and even hundreds of dives, after which even entering a bathtub feels repulsive, we can sit down to do another job or data analysis. After the season has ended we have a period in which we collect all the information we have acquired underwater, we draw conclusions and we recreate a fragment of the story we have taken up. We must enclose the results of these studies to the report in order to be able to settle the grant. It would be good to publish them in some scientific journal. If the discovery is in some way a "media topic", then information is given to the press and other media. That is why many very interesting discoveries emerge only in winter, because then archeologists know what they are dealing with.

So again winter has come, we finished one project, we write an application for the next one, and we write articles so that we can again jump into the water in the next season.

This short account intends to describe the work and life of an underwater archeologist. Of course, I have deliberately omitted many aspects of our work here. Getting into details would make the paragraphs grow into chapters, and the article would become a textbook for underwater archeology, and such books have already been written so there is no need to duplicate them. I hope that I showed that the life of an underwater archeologist is far from people's imaginations or even movies. Although I have not seen action like that in the movie "Fool's Gold", my work has allowed me to reach unusual places in the Baltic, the Mediterranean, South America or even in Poland and to get extraordinary satisfaction from the work itself and adventures we have had. In fact, an underwater archeologist is a scientist... maybe a bit rebellious, having something in common with an adventurer. But these are stories for a completely different article.

stinKed CHaLLenGe

we start a series of articles about professional diving. that is diving with qualifications and a helmet. i n these articles we will present consultations, discussions and experiences of industry companies that deal with it professionally.

Wojciech Zgoła in an informed interview with grzegorz gniwkiewicz, President of the Board of the limited liability company Frog.

every now and then you talk about professional diving, but does such a profession exist?

Maybe I will start in a bit formal way. Yes, in Poland we have such a profession, it is based on Article 19 (1) of Act of October 17, 2003 on underwater work, additionally it should be added that in our country it is a regulated profession1 According to the quoted provisions, we have four levels of qualifications that permit practising the profession of a diver, starting from the lowest they are:

● a third class diver who is entitled to perform underwater work at small depths (up to 20 m);

● a second class diver who is entitled to perform underwater work at small depths (up to 20 m);

● a first class diver who is entitled to perform deep-sea underwater work and underwater work at medium and small depths;

1 a regulated profession is a set of professional activities whose performance depends on the fulfillment of the requirements set out in the regulations of a given EU Member State. Each EU Member State individually decides whether to regulate access to professions. Therefore, the same profession may be a regulated profession in one EU Member Sate, while in another Member States it will not be regulated (www.nawa.gov.pl)

photos robert styła

● a saturation diver who is entitled to perform all types of underwater work without restrictions.

It is a difficult and demanding profession, very often confused with recreational scuba diving, and has nothing to do with recreation. It requires a multi-week training at each level of qualifications that ends with a state examination before the Admissions Committee consisting of divers from the Ministry of Maritime Economy and Inland Navigation. Additionally, a professional diver needs to be in good physical health – which should be confirmed by a medical certificate of no contraindications to carrying out underwater work.

so an oyster fisherman is not a professional diver, is he? What does this man do? No, he is absolutely not. However, the range of work that a professional diver performs in a hydrostatic environment is very wide, for example, making bottom reinforcements in port areas, underwater welding, ultrasonic cutting, concreting, underwater surveys of hydrotechnical constructions or vessels, ship repairs, removing materials of post-war or military origin, supporting the offshore industry at sea and many others that cannot be mentioned here. The places and work in which divers can be found are so diverse that

it is impossible to list them all here, for example I can say that divers work in nuclear power plants, sewage treatment plants and zoological gardens.

are there women among professional divers? I personally know four women, and I still know at least three who have completed training in Poland and have worked or are working in the profession.

you have been involved in this profession for over a dozen years and tasks you do as a professional group are various, they are often things that a common mortal, even a recreational diver, has no idea of. you mentioned sewage treatment plants. how is it to work "underwater" in this particular environment?

For today, I am already more involved in the management of a company that performs underwater work, I manage underwater work, I dive less and less – the nature of things. Speaking of the sewage treatment plant, very different tasks are done there. We make, for example, chemical and mechanical anchor holes in concrete – that is, we drill holes in concrete, in which we fit screws and bolts for fixing technical devices necessary for the proper operation of the treatment plant. And divers do it in sewage with zero visibility. As for the treatment of sludge from tanks, you

have to get used to it, not only to specific odours, but above all to work in total darkness, forget the sense of sight and rely only on manual sensations, and information from the team located on the surface.

it does not look like a nice and easy job...

This job is one constant challenge, requiring concentration, involvement, a bit of cunning and confidence in the teammates who are on the surface at every immersion. This profession cannot be practised if it is not your passion. Virtually every new task implies different problems to solve, another equipment, other hydrological conditions –new planning, preparation, task execution and termination of work, under constant pressure of the most important thing, that is the safety of a man underwater. It often happens that five, six or more people on the water surface have to assist one diver who is underwater.

What are the dangers?

The hazards and risks in professional diving are strictly determined by the established occupational hazards. As I have already mentioned professional diving is a profession, and in every profession we have to do a risk assessment, as required by the Labor Code. Starting from the most obvious ones, drowning, suffocation, pres-

sure injuries or decompression sickness, through injuries caused by underwater mechanical and thermal tools, being crushed by a ship, to such strange situations as being bitten by animals inhabiting water reservoirs. When working in biologically or chemically contaminated reservoirs, we encounter other threats – substances found in the environment in which we perform work, the threat of poisoning, infection with viruses, bacteria, burns and others. It all depends on the composition of the liquid in which we work.

is the equipment you are using suitable for further use after work?

The equipment we use is certified, approved by standards to work in a given contaminated environment. It allows complete isolation of the diver from the aggressive hydrostatic environment in which he or she is located. It is reusable, provided that the procedures and technical instructions regarding the use, decontamination and disinfection as well as storage are observed. Of course, nothing is for ever and after a certain time you have to submit such equipment to inspection and service of authorised representatives of the manufacturers. During such a service, it may also happen that the further use of the diving equipment will be halted or the cost

of repairs will be higher than the purchase of a new equipment.

and what is the external security that you have already mentioned?

The minimum external protection is strictly defined in the Regulation of the Minister of Infrastructure of May 19, 2004 on health and safety at work in underwater work. Acting in accordance with the law, we can only increase our security by extending what is required by law. A professional diver never does work alone, there is always a team whose composition depends on the regulations, the depth at which we perform

work, the diving equipment we use and devices that support and secure the task we are supposed to do.

In short, it looks like this (in the minimum version): the underwater work supervisor watches over everything, he or she has a diver working underwater, a safety diver, an operator of the dive control panel and other people operating the technical devices of an underwater work base. Depending on the type of work and technical equipment, the base may include, for example, a dive system operator (decompression chamber), a crane operator, people operating power or hydraulic generators.

Firma Isotta na targach EUDI w Bolonii zaprezentowała

NOWĄ OBUDOWĘ do lustrzanek NIKON Z6 i Z7

Jak zawsze Włosi zadbali o szczegóły, które zostały dopracowane w najmniejszym stopniu.

Obudowa wykonana z czerwonego, anodyzowanego aluminium, zaopatrzona we wszystkie potrzebne pokrętła i przyciski.

Użyto podwójnych O-ringów do wszystkich przycisków i demontowanych elementów, które mają zapewnić maksymalny komfort pracy pod wodą oraz zabezpieczyć aparat przed zalaniem

W obudowie zamontowano akustyczny i LED-owy czujnik wilgoci

Plovers

sand trinkets

Birds of a filigree body built, quickly moving their thin legs when they scamper smoothly, maybe even a little nervously, around the sand. They do it so briskly that it is difficult for a man to catch up with them – they easily get away from us.

Nowonder, since without any apparent effort they make many paces in a second, and their legs cease to be visible at all – they look as if they were moving several centimetres above the ground. Plovers are also great aviators. The construction of their wings makes sudden returns of 180 degrees in the air a routine for these birds.

Plovers are small birds, not bigger than a starling, but with long legs characteristic of plovers. Bows of plovers, in turn, unlike most of their cousins, are

short. And so are their necks; to be honest, plovers look as if they did not have a neck at all. Well, with the exception of only an Eurasian dotterel, a slightly larger plover visiting Poland during flights (although in the past it regularly hatched in our mountains, where it found conditions similar to the ones in the northern tundra, where these birds usually hatch) which has the most distinct neck among the species of plovers found in Poland. As to the species and taxonomy of these birds, the plovers belong to the subfamily Charadriinae, suborder Charadrii in the Charadriiformes order. The most common in Poland is the little ringed plover (Charadrius dubius), and the rarest, common ringed plover (Charadrius hiaticula). The former lives by rivers and water reservoirs choosing sandy or gravel places, while the ring plover prefers sea banks or possibly larger rivers in the inland. On the coast it is possible to meet a Kentish plover (C. alexandrinus) and on rare occasions (so far only a few confirmed cases) the greater sand plover (C. leschenaultii), and even less frequently the lesser sand plover (C. mongolus).

In addition, you can meet a lot of other species of this genus in the world. Let’s try to name them: a New Zealand plover, a semipalmated plover, a long-billed plover, a Wilson's plover, a killdeer, a pipping plover, a Madagascan plover, a Kittlitz's plover, the Saint Helena plover, a three-banded plover, a Forbes's plover, a white-fronted plover, a snowy plover, a Javan plover, a red-capped plover, a Malaysian plover, a chestnut-banded plover, a collared plover, a Puna plover, a two-banded plover, a double-banded plover, a Caspian plover, an oriental plover, a mountain plover and a Rufous-chested plover. In addition, in other genes we also have a hooded plover, a shore plover and a black-fronted plover. Phew. And if we were to list the sub-species ... we would get a real bird menagerie. Many of the names indicate the origin of the species (if the esteemed Reader managed to get through the list above), but regardless of whether we observe these birds in Indonesia, Patagonia, the Frisian Islands or Mikoszewo, we will always recognize that they are just plovers – despite differences

in colouration (more often than not rather insignificant) between individual species. The multitude of species is also proof that plovers have successfully adapted to different climatic conditions.

They also adapted well to gaining food in their habitats. The aforementioned short beaks of plovers are perfect for acquiring their favorite food. Between the grains of sand they can see (as their eyes are large) the smallest movement of their prey meaning a quick end in the plover's stomach. From the menu they choose most often insects, arachnids, shellfish, mollusks and the annelids. To get them, the plovers can even use a cunning tactics of thumping. Then they stand on one leg and jumping on it they disturb the invertebrates hidden in the ground which, trying to escape the impending threat, become visible to the hunter. These birds, despite their long legs, do not often enter water looking for food. They rather search regions on the boarder of water, and sometimes even quite far away from the water, although they

w hen an unwelcome guest approaches the nest or the young, the plover tries to focus the predator's attention on itself.

i t can then perform bizarre contortions or more often simulate disabilities.

sometimes wander through muddy drifts during low tide – then their long legs are useful not only for running, but also for muddy crossings.

Plovers not only find food among sands and gravels, but they also reproduce in places with such a substrate. Their nest is usually a small hole, sometimes padded with just a few blades of grass. The little ringed plover in an original way arranges the future place of laying eggs by throwing these blades over itself with its back towards the nest. And it hits the target! If the plovers take a liking for

each other and form a couple, after some time the female lays eggs. There are usually 3-4 of them, which, given their size and weight, does not go with the size the female anyhow, as one egg can weigh a fifth of her body weight. Nature can be surprising. After laying all the eggs, the incubation begins, in which, in case of plovers, both parents take part. The eggs are unusually well camouflaged thanks to a dotted pattern and the appropriate colour. The same will be with the young, which thanks to the masking colouration will have a chance to remain unnoticed by predators. Unfortunately, it is not always possible for the plover to avoid the drama of loosing a brood. Even if the young ones have not yet hatched, the parents undertake desperate attempts to save the eggs, also when, for example, the wind covers the nest with sand. The birds were observed to press the eggs with their beak to their breasts and pull them behind themselves, moving backwards. When an unwelcome guest approaches the nest or the young, the plover tries to focus the predator's attention on itself. It can then perform

bizarre contortions or more often simulate disabilities. It lowers one of the wings or pretends to be lame and hobbles away from the nest, so that the threat will not affect the brood. When a plover manages to pull the threat away, it simply flies away. This type of behaviour is not unique among birds nesting on earth. Like this behaves also, e.g. a larger relative of plovers – a grey plover, but also many other species of Charadrii.

In the case of the already mentioned cousin of the little ringed plover and common ringed plover –the Eurasian dotterel, the problems of breeding are slightly different. Tu put it simply, everything is turned upside down. First of all, females are more colourful than males. It is the "ladies" who are trying to get the attention of the "gentlemen" and encourage them to start a family. As soon as the eggs are laid, the female leaves the nest under the care of her partner (already an ex-at that moment). It is him who is responsible for the upbringing of the descendants. And the female itself... sets off on her

way to look for another partner. It happens that the female does not get only to another part of beach or gravel, but flies several hundred kilometres away! Undertaking subsequent breeding trials with other males, which is a kind of polyandry (it will be a polygamy in human terms), concerns also other species, such as the the mountain plover, which nests on the prairies and fields of North America, and not in the mountains, as suggested by its Latin (Charadrius montanus) or English (mountain plover) name. To close the subject of sexual behaviours of plovers, it should be added that polygyny does happen (polygamy for Homo sapiens), and therefore we can say that plovers are both monogamous and polygamous depending on the species and the prevailing conditions.

Plovers are typical precocial species, which means that in a short time after hatching the chicks make independent attempts to look for food. They often stay for a few weeks under the care of their parents to join a larger herd before departure. Inter-

the greatest threat to virtually all species of plovers is the disappearance of their habitats. Human pressure is also often mentioned, mainly tourists who are looking for deserted beaches, river banks, etc.

estingly, during breeding, the plovers are territorial and chase away their tribesmen. Such behavior vanishes after raising their chicks. A frequent view at the beginning of migration flights are flocks of plovers seeking food in groups, often in the company of other species of birds. Then it is easiest to spot them, and flights in the case of Central Europe usually last from March to May in one direction and from August to September in the other (although it might take place sooner or later). Our plovers spend winter everywhere from the British Isles to

Africa. There are also known settled populations from slightly warmer regions of Western Europe. Some plovers fly to northern Scandinavia, northern Russia, and even to Greenland and northern Canada. In this respect, they are also not unique among the Charadriiformes.

The greatest threat to virtually all species of plovers is the disappearance of their habitats. Human pressure is also often mentioned, mainly tourists who are looking for deserted beaches, river banks, etc. Wandering around such areas, you should carefully peek under your feet. It is not easy to spot the eggs or the nestling spreading on the ground to avoid spotting. Fortunately, parents are most often around and will try to prevent tragedy. The problem may also pose a prolonged stay in the vicinity of the nest with eggs, especially in a warm climate, when the lack of a brooding parent will result in not cooling down the egg, but in completely the opposite phenomenon – eggs in such a situation can simply fry in the sun. Look out for the plovers over the water as they are animals of an overwhelming beauty.

FuLL FaCe masK in divinG

What exactly is a full face M ask for diving?

Well, the simplest answer is the basic information that such a mask has an integrated second stage. The second information about the mask is also important. Namely, it completely separates a diver's face from external conditions.

But how does it look in reality? Let's review most of the full face masks available.

There are several professional models on the market that can meet the needs of both recreational and technical divers. They differ in shape, second stage, material, etc. Choosing the right full face mask depends on our preferences, diving conditions as well as financial means.

i n the follo W ing issues of the M aga Z ine i W ill present the M ost co MM on and available M asks:

● Guardiam made by OTS

● Spectrum made by OTS

● Divider made by Interspiro

● M-48 MOD-1 made by Kirby Morgan

● M-48 Supermask made by Kirby Morgan

● Poseidon Atmosphere made by Poseidon

● Neptun Space Extender made by Oceanreef

text robert styła

wHy sHOuLdn't we use HOses in diFFerent COLOurs

FOr Gas determinatiOn?

If you use hoses in different colours to determine gases, then such system will stop working shortly after descending. It is dangerous to use coloured elements underwater as markings in critical procedures. The reason is the human eye colour perception changes with increasing depth.

The use of a coloured hose as a way to determine the type of gas can cause considerable doubt exactly when you need to be sure that you have chosen the right gas.

These are the reasons why you should not use this solution:

● at a greater depth, the colours disappear, so when changing gas you always need an additional source of light (apart from the natural) to identify the colour, and your mainlight is not at hand,

● if before diving the green hose fails and you use the only spare you have, which is for example blue, then you have an error in colours,

● if on a boat you borrow a spare regulator from someone, it can have a totally different colour set,

● if during a dive you change the regulators on the cylinders, then you change the colours.

When the gas change takes place in very limited visibility, there is a high risk of making a serious mistake, due to the reasons mentioned above.

Changing gases underwater is a procedure used by technical divers. Like any other one, it should be the simplest possible and then it is the safest.

The gas change moment should be based on the depth gauge readings and the MOD markings on the cylinder in which you have previously analysed the gas. The MOD marking is permanent, does not change during the dive, and the white sticker with black numbers is large, strongly contrasting and visible to both you and your partner, in virtually any conditions.

There are also divers among us who do not distinguish colours. It is worth using procedures that are convenient and safe for all of us.

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