Perfect Diver Magazine 7 issue by perfectdiver

diving

No. 7 1(7)/2020

january/february

Price 7,90 â&#x201A;Ź Tax included

freediving

passion

knowledge

seahorse A new way to exprience Egypt Equipment configurations

the foreword

Wojciech Zgoła

Editor-in-Chief

The first issue in 2020 is a new opening. We are changing for the better. We will appear more often. After your suggestions, we have decided that a bimonthly is a better formula than a quarterly. Bartek Pszczółkowski has permanently joined our team since the new year. He is the author of great underwater photos and has good writing skills. Certainly reading his texts will be a feast for your eyes and imagination. For those who like paper editions, we are also changing for the better. Using your suggestions, we have minimally changed the format and number of pages. Thanks to these changes, we have reduced the price to 7.90 EUR. Perfect Diver currently costs less than filling one scuba tank, and lasts longer. Among our readers and our fans we also have a group of people interested in the underwater world, but not diving yet. For them, we have created a new section – "Underwater Rookie". We hope that the texts contained in this section will help you make decisions and start the adventure of a lifetime with diving or freediving. A magazine that you are holding or have opened on the screen would not have been possible without the support of our environment. See who is advertising with us. Our Partners in this way support not only the editors, but also you. It is thanks to them that we have the opportunity to prepare interesting texts for you and publish fantastic photos. I thank them very much for their trust and commitment to the integration of our environment. Each of you, fantastic readers of our magazine, has the power to become a partner. Remember that at any time you can support the project of the Perfect Diver magazine, not only by ordering the paper version of the magazine, but also by making micropayments. In every issue, including this one, we insert the QR code that helps provide the editorial board with a voluntary payment. We promise to invest every amount received in this way, even the proverbial one penny, in the development and obtaining interesting editorial content. "Everything has its origin in a thought. An idea, a project, a venture and even a piece of work begins with it." Enjoy reading!

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

ta b l e o f co n t e n t s

10 travels 18

A new way to experience Egypt

Two faces of Sulawesi

Rummu

Quarry in Uzhgorod (Ukraine – Transcarpathia)

planet earth 10

Seahorse

“Dolphin Reef” in Eilat. New opportunities, new threats

Feathered torpedoes

Shore crab

knowledge 40

Hazard Identification and Risk Assessment – HIRA

archaeology 42

Vikings, rulers of the seas

caves 46

Maria Concordia Main, a new place on the diving map of Poland

events 67

After and before the Festival of Power

Publisher perfect diver wojciech zgoła ul. Folwarczna 37, 62-081 Przeźmierowo redakcja@perfectdiver.com ISsN 2545-3319

rookie's eye

editor in chief columnist

ABC: mask, snorkel, fins. How to select and safely use

underwater archeology

snorkeling gear

freediving photographer publicist, photographer english language translators

Wojciech Zgoła Irena Kosowska Mateusz Popek Agnieszka Kalska Jakub Degee Bartosz Pszczółkowski Agnieszka Gumiela-Pająkowska Arleta Kaźmierczak

legal care graphic design and composition

Adwokat Joanna Wajsnis Brygida Jackowiak-Rydzak

the magazine was folded with typefaces

Montserrat (Julieta Ulanovsky) Open Sans (Ascender Fonts) Spectral (Production Type) printing

Wieland Drukarnia Cyfrowa, Poznań, www.wieland.com.pl

distribution

dive centers, online store

preorder@perfectdiver.com

tips & curiosities 70

Equipment configurations, part 1

cover photo

Karolina Sztaba model

Georgina Swain place

Gili Islands, Trawangan Dive Resort

www.perfectdiver.com

The Editorial Office does not return unsolicited materials, is not responsible for the content of advertisements and reserves the right to shorten, edit, title the submitted texts and select illustrative materials. Reprinting of articles or parts thereof, copying only with the consent of the Editorial Board. Editors are not responsible for the form and content of advertisements.

If you like this issue, donate any amount! Donation is voluntary. PayPal.Me/perfectdiver perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

e d i to r i a l t e a m

Wojciech Zgoła

irena kosowska

jakub degee

He often repeats that he travels by diving and that

Regional Manager Divers Alert Network Polska, div-

Polish photographer, winner of awards and dis-

is his motto. In 1985 he obtained a yacht sailor's

ing and first aid instructor, technical diver and

tinctions in world underwater photography com-

license, and only in 2006 began to dive. In the

cave diver. In love with all flooded, dark, cold,

petitions, has already dived all over the world:

following years he improved his skills by obtain-

tight places and invariably from the beginning

with sharks and whales in South Africa, with orcs

ing the Dive Master degree. He completed near-

of the diving route – in the Baltic. Implementing

behind the Arctic Circle, on Galapagos with hun-

ly 650 dives in various climatic conditions. Since

the DAN mission, he conducts a series of lectures

dreds of hammerhead sharks and humpback

2007, he has been taking photographs underwa-

”Dive safely” and Diving Safety Laboratory, so field

whales in the Tonga Islands. He participates in

ter, and since 2008 he has also been filming. As

research of divers for scientific purposes.

specialist photographic workshops. He has been

an independent journalist, he published dozens

diving for 27 years, he started at the age of 12 – as

of articles, mainly in journals dedicated to diving,

soon as it was formally possible. He was the first in

but not only. Co-author of photo exhibitions in

the world to use the Hasselblad X1d-50c camera

Poland and abroad. He is passionate about and

for underwater macro photography. Recently, in

propagator of diving.

the remote Chincorro archipelago on the border

Since 2008 he has been running his own website

between Mexico and Belize, he did it again, tak-

www.dive-adventure.eu. On the basis of extensive

ing a successful attempt to photograph the eye of

experience, in August 2018 he created the new

a crocodile with a macro lens with an additional

Perfect Diver Magazine.

magnifying lens, which is the world's largest photo of the crocodile's eye living in the wild (in terms of pixel count, print size, quality).

Mateusz Popek

Agnieszka kalska

Bartosz Pszczółkowski

”My passion, work and life are under water.” He has

”I can't imagine living without water, where in a free

That's my name and I come from Poznań. I have

been diving since 2009. Since 2008, he's walking

body I experience freedom of the spirit.”

in caves. Underwater archeologist by education. He participated in numerous projects in Poland and abroad. He has been engaged in professional diving since 2011. In 2013 he obtained the qualifications of a 2nd class diver. Has experience in underwater work both at sea and inland. Since

• founder of the first freediving and swimming school in Poland – FREEBODY, • Apnea Academia International and PADI Master Freediver freediving instructor, • world record holder in freediving (DYN 253 m),

been associated with water practically from birth and with diving since I learned to walk. My grandfather instilled my passion for the underwater world, a CMAS*** instructor taking me to the lakes at any free time. I obtained my first qualifications in 1996. A year later I went to Croatia and literally went crazy at the sight of blue wa-

2013 he has been diving in caves, especially in

• record holder and Polish champion, member

ter, octopus and colorful fish;) I bought my first

the mountains, and since 2014 he is a diving in-

of the national team in freediving 2013–2019,

underwater camera – Olympus 5060 and started

• winner of the World Championships in freed-

the adventure with underwater photography.

structor CMAS M1.

iving 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2018,

I acquired my diving experience in the Canary

• multimedalist of the Polish Championships

Islands, Sardinia, Norway, Maldives and in Polish

and a member of the national team in swim-

lakes. I am currently a Padi and ESA instructor,

ming in the years 1998–2003,

I train diving enthusiasts in Europe and pass my

• passionate about freediving and swimming.

passion on to others. I invite all lovers of the underwater world and photography to Beediver (FB) – see you soon.

o u r au t h o r s

wojciech a. filip

Anna sołoducha

karol pencil ołówek

Has more than 8000 dives on his account. He has

A graduate of Geography faculty at the Univer-

Karol's first contact with diving was innocent and

been diving for over 30 years, including over 20

sity of Wrocław and an incurable optimist… with

accidental. He began with snorkeling in Bulgaria

years as a technical diver. He is a professional

a permanent smile on her lips! It was probably

and Greece in the late 90s. A little later, after tak-

with great theoretical and practical knowledge.

Destiny that led her to Activtour… and she's been

ing the first course, diving became his passion.

He is an instructor of many federations: GUE

here on permanent basis. She passionately ful-

Since then, he has passed all levels of training.

Instructor Mentor, CMAS**, IANTD nTMX, IDCS

fils the dreams of many, organizing diving trips

He worked as an underwater guide in several

PADI, EFR, TMX Gas Blender. He participated in

around the world, and she has already been div-

countries and worked on shellfish harvesting in

many diving projects and conferences as a leader,

ing for more than half of her life. Each year she

cold Scottish waters. By profession, he is a logis-

explorer, originator or lecturer. These included

explores a different ‘piece of the ocean’, pinning

tics manager, which makes it very easy for him

the Britannic Expedition 2016, Morpheus Cave

another pin to her diving world map. In winter

to organize diving trips. An enthusiast of flooded

Scientific Project on Croatia caves, GROM Expe-

she changes fins into her beloved skis and gets

caves, a speleologist, seeker of abandoned plac-

dition in Narvik, Tuna Mine Deep Dive, Glavas

away into the Alps. A recipe for life? ”The only

es (mines, adits, factories). A SDI/TDI diving and

Cave in Croatia, NOA-MARINE. Professionally, he

a dead trunk flows with the current – the explorer's

first aid instructor. He thinks that what makes

is a technical director at TecLine in Scubatech,

canoe flows up the river!”

a good diver is arduous training in various condi-

and a director of training at TecLine Academy.

www.activtour.pl, anna@activtour.pl

tions. The admirer of the Balkans, which he has been visiting for 20 years. He loves underwater photography, wild mountains, Asia and its cuisine, black humor and happy company on trips. A SeaYa Ambassador.

sylwia kosmalska-juriewicz

adrian juriewicz

bartek pitala

A traveller and a photographer of wild nature.

A traveler, photographer and the underwater

A boring programmer by education and profes-

A graduate of journalism and a lover of good

world filmmaker, an Asian cuisine enthusiast

sion, a diver by years of passion. An amateur of

literature. She lives in harmony with nature,

and a PADI diving instructor. He visited over

underwater photography and video in a budget

promotes a healthy lifestyle: she is a yogini and

70 countries and dived on 5 continents (the

version. For years fascinated with places "with

a vegetarian. Also engaged in ecological projects.

other two are planned for next year's expedi-

history" – mines, bunkers, and of course wrecks

Sharks and their protection are especially close to

tions). For several years he has also been an

– and (though not necessarily in this order) caves

her heart. She writes about the subject in numer-

instructor and trainer of the unmanned aircraft

in which with his own eyes he can see the won-

ous articles and on her blog www.divingandtravel.

flights. A co-author of a travel agency for divers

ders created by nature, if left her free hand and

pl. She began her adventure with diving fifteen

www.dive-away.pl. He documents his expeditions

several million years to act.

years ago by total coincidence. Today she is

with photos and descriptions of his journeys on

a Divemaster, she visited over 60 countries and

his blog www.divingandtravel.pl

dived on 5 continents. She invites us for a joint journey with the travel agency www.dive-away.pl, of which she is a co-founder.

o u r au t h o r s

wojciech jarosz

jakub banasiak

margita ślizowska

Diver from 2008. Passionate of the Red Sea and

aka "Mermaid". NAUI, EFR (premedical first aid)

A graduate of two Poznan universities, the

pelagic ocean predators. Devoted to the idea of

and DAN oxygen rescue instructor. Actress and

Academy of Physical Education (coaching special-

protecting dolphins, sharks and whales. He dives

singer. Versatile woman.

ization – handball) and the University of A.Mickie-

mainly where you can meet these animals and

Diving is her passion and a way to help every

wicz, Faculty of Biology (specialty of experimental

monitor the level of their well-being. Member of

person with whom she works above and below

biology). He connected his professional life with

Dolphinaria-Free Europe Coalition, volunteer at

water. In her opinion, diving is not only exploring

this first university trying to influence the direc-

Tethys Research Institute and Cetacean Research &

the underwater world. It is also getting to know

tion of development of future professionals on

Rescue Unit, associate of Marine Connection. For

and integrating with your own "I", building trust

the one hand, and on the other planning and

10 years he has been involved in research on wild

in yourself and a way to develop the skills neces-

implementing research, pushing laboriously in

dolphin populations and audits dolphinariums.

sary to overcome all life problems. Specialist for

the right direction of the stroller called science.

Together with the team ”NO! For the Dolphinari-

"difficult" students and children.

In his free time he spends his time actively – his

um” he prevents dolphins from captivity and pro-

Owner of XDIVERS – Your Diving School. Trimix,

main passions are sailing (sea helmsman), skiing

motes knowledge about dolphin therapy unsaid

cave and gas blender diver. Her biggest underwa-

(downhill skiing instructor), riding a motorcycle,

or concealed by centers which make money on

ter love are caves, and diving priority – SAFETY.

recreational diving and many other activities, as

this form of animal therapy.

margita@xdivers.pl

well as photography, mainly nature.

ROLAND

JOHN

Big Blue to marka stworzona przez nurka i miłośnika morskiej fauny, Rolanda St John jako Big Blue Aquatic Gifts. Biżuteria i breloczki z motywami ośmiornic, żółwi morskich, rekinów i innych gatunków, powstają w USA są w ykańczane ręcznie, ukazują piękno i różnorodność morskich stworzeń. Jako dystrybutor Big Blue by Roland St John, Ocean-Tech Sp. z o.o. w pełni podziela zachwyt twórcy nad mieszkańcami oceanicznych głębin. Breloczki, wisiorki, bransoletki i kolczyki Big Blue dostępne są na: nurkowyswiat.pl i sklep.ocean-tech.pl. 8

Biżuteria

BY RO L A ND S T J O H N

to idealy pomysł na oryginalny i wyjątkowy prezent.

jakub cieślak Diving instructor, author of the blog about diving, social activist. He has been diving for almost twenty years, mainly in Poland, has been a trainer for six years and also a member of the Group Exploring Diving Sites near to Warsaw – a group promoting diving and protection of the water world.

agata turowicz Since I was a child, I had dreamed of becoming a marine biologist and I managed to fulfill that dream. I did a degree in oceanography, where I recently started my doctoral studies. My diving adventure began when I was 12 years old. I love observing the underwater life up close and I try to show other divers how fascinating the underwater, Baltic creatures are.

beata tabak A traveler, photographer and producer of television programs. Every day she works at TVN Discovery and in her spare time she photographs and dives. She visited six continents with her camera, and Australia is in the near future. She loves photographing nature, landscapes and people. She is fascinated by the world of other cultures and what is passing away. It can be found on mountain trails or in the grass when photographing macro. A few years ago, she decided to go underwater and fell in love with diving. She is passionate about both underwater life and stories hidden behind wrecks or flooded places. She publishes her photos on Instagram.

planet earth

Seahorse Text and photos bartosz pszczółkowski

Hippocampus Hippocampus is smaller than his colleague H. Guttulatus – you can see the dorsal fin

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

Pipefish in all its glory, when among seagrass blends with the surroundings and it is impossible to spot him

HAVE YOU EVER HEARD THE SAYING THAT A DIVER SWIMS LIKE A SEAHORSE?

This term is used in jargon when a diver, usually a beginner, moves underwater in a vertical position. This is a position characteristic for a seahorse. They belong to the Syngnathidae family, which includes dozens of species of sea fish, including Syngnathus sp. It is interesting that in English the name "Seahorses" refers only to the genus Hippocampus. The above mentioned position of seahorse is something unique in the animal world and practically non-existent in the world of fish. It is believed that seahorses developed their position as far as 25 million years ago. After the environmental changes taking place between the Antipodes and Indonesia, shallow seagrass areas, "sargassum", were created. In these shallow waters full of vegetation, seahorses found shelter, and the vertical silhouette allowed them to blend in with the surroundings. The oldest seahorse fossil dating back to 13 million years has been found in Slovenia. This fossilized seahorse is very similar to the ones currently living in the Mediterranean. There are 2 species of seahorse in Europe: Hippocampus hippocampus (usually a small, short snout, lack of "hair", often triangular head) and Hippocampus guttulatus (larger 10–13 cm, with long snout, a lot of "hair", head more rounded). These

Hippocampus Hippocampus female with the tail curled up like a chameleon

planet earth

Hippocampus Guttulatus male with a tummy

species coexist with each other and with another member of the family, Syngnathus sp. Characteristics

These fish are poor swimmers. Their small pectoral fins are located at the back of their heads, and there is one dorsal fin which can make up to 35 movements per second. They inhibit shallow waters and choose areas where we will meet the sandy bottom next to the Posidonia meadows. If you manage to meet the seahorse without intruding its space, you will have a chance to see it again, if the seahorse has such a wish, and if you will strain your eyes to see it among the plants, roots or sandy bottom. There are many qualities among these animals that are astonishing and deserve attention. Camouflage

Seahorses are masters of the hide and seek play. They can adapt their body colour to the colour of the place where they live. For this reason, it is very difficult to get a good picture of this creature in its natural environment. They are territorial animals and inhabit areas near the sea grass, e.g.

Hippocampus Hippocampus female

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

Posidonia ps., also sandy bottoms, on which accumulate

The release of the young takes place in a peaceful envi-

the remains of plants and animals.

ronment of Posidonia's sea grasses, away from preda-

They have eyes like a chameleon, which they can move independently, and a catchy tail, which they attach to the seagrass or the tail of a partner in love

tors and other threats. The female under the belly has a characteristic indentation. The horses are monogamous and mate for life, which

mating dance.

lasts from 4 to 6 years.

Reproduction

Food

Seahorses are one of a kind in breeding. They have sexual

Seahorses feed on copepods, amphipodas, shrimps

dimorphism and have a characteristic "pouch" under the

and small fish. The method of hunting involves pull-

male's abdomen. The female deposits eggs into this bag.

ing the victim into the throat through an elongated

It is the Seahorse Dad who incubates eggs and gives

snout. They are able to suck in food from a distance

birth to fully developed miniatures measuring 2–12 mm.

of 3 cm. The seahorse's digestive system is devoid of

H.Guttulatus female using a catchy tail to hold a piece of posidonia

H.Guttulatus female while eating

Hippocampus Guttulatus female at its finest, it measures up to 15 cm

Hippocampus Hippocampus male with a barely visible reproductive "pouch"

H.Guttulatus male with a "pouch" full of eggs with a visible reproductive hole

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

Seahorses food

bream, rays, penguins and humans. The latter is the biggest threat to the seahorse. It is estimated that 20 million seahorses are sold illegally for the use in traditional Chinese, Japanese and Korean medicine. They are attributed with healing properties for respiratory diseases and impotence. The shallow bays of the Mediterranean Sea are a perfect shelter for seahorses, however, the increasing volume of traffic, reckless tourism have an increasing impact on the marine environment. Posidonia seagrass extinction has been observed in the Mediterranean for several years. Seagrass is a shelter for many animals and also a breeding place for seahorses. Seahorses in various cultures are depicted as magical animals that bring happiness to anyone who sees them. For me, every encounter with these unique creatures is magical. As a guide, diving instructor and underwater stomach, which forces it to eat constantly and gives the

nature lover, I'm happy to show seahorses to other di-

impression that it is always hungry. It is able to eat up

vers. I believe that thanks to such meetings, ecological

to 3,000 shrimps a day.

awareness and sensitivity of the observers of the underwater world and the creatures living in it increases.

Threats

water world, observers, and we should disturb the peace

enemies, but they can be eaten by tuna, gilt-head sea

of this amazing world as little as possible.

H.Guttulatus female swimming in the depths is a rare sight

We must remember that we are guests in the under-

Seahorses, due to their body-built, do not have many

t r av e l s

A new way to experience Egypt Text anna soĹ&#x201A;oducha

Regardless of the time of day during which you will see any of the diving villages in Egypt, you will certainly hold your breath for aÂ moment. Pieces of white canvas on the shores of azure sea emerging from behind the mountains, shimmering paths lit by thousands of lanterns or huge tracts of green mangrove forest in the vicinity of the desert.

travels

iving Eco Camps are something unique and surprising... What is more, the whole idea of these places

is based on the sustainable development of the environment and care for its natural resources. The villages were founded in 1990 and to this day they are leaders in the field of professional service, standards and diving sites in the southern part of the Red Sea that surrounds the coast of Egypt. Marsa Shagra, Marsa Nakari and Wadi Lahami are located in the area of Marsa Alam and Hamata. Each of Eco Camps is a certified PADI center, which uses innovative management and business development techniques, employing over 350 employees. These places are created by experienced PADI instructors and guides with extensive language skills, using Arabic, English, French, Italian and German. Each of the ecocamps offers a wonderful opportunity to stay in the bosom of nature in close contact with the unique surroundings of the Red Sea and the desert. It is a place with a diving atmosphere. Instead of 300 rooms, an aquapark, a gym and four restaurants, we will see here standard tents, built of sailcloth, each with two extremely comfortable beds, hand-made furniture and full electricity. The larger ones – Royal Tents – having almost 30 m², I personally choose them most often, and that is why I recommend them to clients. You can feel like in a tale from "One Thousand and One Nights" ... They are equipped with one huge bed or two single beds, a fan, fridge, furniture, poufs, tables... The villas, on the other hand, are large, comfortable brick houses, with their own bathroom, air conditioning and a dressing table. This is the most "luxurious" option, but I still love the sound of the sea, the breeze and the smell of the desert while sleeping in a tent... The Eco Camp Marsa Shagra is located 250 km south of Hurghada and 40 km south of the airport of Marsa Alam. The center of Marsa Alam is 18 km away. There are also several shops, a decompression chamber, cafes and a pharmacy in the area. It is a kind of a tourist village (the largest of the Eco Camps) which can accommodate up to 240 people. The village is also recommended to people who do not dive as it has well-developed infrastructure and a wide range of attractions on land – including a children's playground or a beach volleyball court. On shore, you can use a massage stand, as well as an oxygen bar. What distinguishes Shagra is a wonderful home reef – it is inhabited by hundreds of species of

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

marine animals and beautiful varieties of soft and hard corals. Shagra is located in a shallow, natural bay with a sandy bottom, with reefs going north and south. Inside the bay we will reach a depth of 2 to 10 m, while going away from the shore we encounter a fault descending to about 40–50 m – the outer reef slope. Dolphins are common guests here, and so are white and black fin reef sharks, napoleons, giant green turtles, sea cows, manta rays, and from April to June... whale sharks! The diving program in the base has been designed to meet the expectations of people at various levels of advancement. It contains 60 dive sites located on a stretch of 300 km of the most wonderful Red Sea reefs. The well-prepared dive programs give the possibility of unlimited diving on home reefs, all-day boat trips to the most distant reefs, dives from zodiacs, night dives and technical dives. The Marsa Shagra and Marsa Nakari bases offer packages enabling unlimited dives from 'dawn to dusk', on magnificent home reefs, and guided tours on reefs located within 60 km of the Eco Camps. During the 5-day diving program, we have the possibility of unlimited dives on the home reef (from the shore and from zodiacs) in the basic package, or in the extended package we have an additional 8 dives with a guide in the long-range diving zones – in accordance with the so-called credits system.

travels

You can go diving at any time of the day – the dive center has a touch screen on which people diving in the base subscribe to dives, join groups or create new ones, for a specific day and time  It is always worth asking the dive guide when trips to Elphinstone, Dolphin House or the wreck of Abu Ghusun are organized. The Eco Camp Marsa Nakari is located in a quiet and peaceful area, above a small and sandy bay sheltered by desert hills. In Roman times, this place served as a port – the remains are the ruins of buildings on the hill by the bay. The camp is located 290 km south of Hurghada and 80 km south of the airport in Marsa Alam. The center of Marsa Alam is 40 km away. The camp is a combination of the previously described Mars Shagra, and the most southern site – Wadi Lahami. Nakari is smaller than Shagra, but definitely more intimate and calm. This is certainly an ideal proposition for people who value peace and prefer relaxation away from large and crowded resorts. The diving program works in ex-

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

actly the same way as in the previous camp – anyone

will not hear the noise typical of Egyptian towns. Here it

who comes here can enter the water 4–5 times a day,

is... simply different. You will be surrounded by desert,

at any time of the day, both from the shore and using

mountains, a mangrove reserve, a turquoise sea and...

zodiacs. From this camp we have the fastest access to

thousands of stars scattered in the beautiful night sky.

the Samadai Reef, famous for its dolphins, the wreck

The diving package at Wadi Lahami is definitely differ-

of Abu Ghusun and the virgin reef system in the Wadi

ent from other Eco Camps. The Wadi Lahami base of-

el Gimal Marine Park. There are all possible types of

fers two morning dives with a RIB on the famous Fury

accommodation – from ordinary tents, to royal tents,

Shoals reef system during the day, afternoon dives on

bungalows and deluxe villas.

one of the closest reefs without a guide, and night dives

At the end of the road leading south, towards Sudan,

on the home reef. During your week-long stay, you will

there is a special place... the Eco Camp Wadi Lahami,

do a similar number of dives to what you would do in an

which was created for people who truly love diving. It is

underwater safari! The Fury Shoal reef system is one of

the most virgin of Eco Camps, located in the "far south

the best-preserved reef systems in Egypt. Abu Galawa

of Egypt", located about 120 km from the border with

Kebir/Soraya, Claudia, Bloomen, Lahami South, Stairway

Sudan, 180 km from Marsa Alam, about 10 km south of

to Heaven, Malahi, Angel... these are just a few excellent

Hamata. It is located among the mangrove trees in the

dive sites located around Wadi Lahami. Amazing coral

nature reserve. It is the smallest and the most peaceful,

gardens, cave systems, colourful pinnacles or pristine

compared to the sister Eco Camps: Marsa Shagra and

places with a herd of over 60 dolphins attract more and

Marsa Nakari. Wadi Lahami is a very intimate and safe

more divers seeking beautiful dives. It is right here that

place that very few tourists have reached. The village

you can see how Egyptian reefs looked over 20 years

can accommodate 94 people, and diving is practically

ago. It is also a refuge for birds and a phenomenal place

the only "entertainment" in this place

Here we will

for kitesurfing enthusiasts! There is a base in the village,

not meet any random tourists, we will not see hotels, we

which can be used throughout your stay at the camp

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

or together with the diving package. Wadi Lahami is my

workshops, as well as yoga sessions, horseback riding,

beloved place in Egyptâ&#x20AC;Ś

camel, quad or astro tours.

The creators of the diving Eco Camp concept cooper-

Virgin, pro-ecological diving villages are available all

ate with aÂ number of universities, scientists and organi-

year round. Always with perfect organization, perfect

zations that support the development of knowledge and

dives and unforgettable impressions they have been

science on the protection of the Red Sea. Periodic clean-

serving our clients for years. The idea of Eco Camps is

ing and care projects for the marine world are organized.

addressed to people who are looking for an alternative

National Geographic representatives are also frequent

to standard trips to the Land of the Pharaohs, because

visitors... Camps also organize photography and filming

it is not always about hotel comfort, marble floors and

drinks under palm trees ... Among us there are many for whom the most important are the feeling of closeness with nature and local surroundings, the desire to experience an unusual adventure, peace, an opportunity to take a break from civilization, and diving, for which we go so often to Egypt. It is an ideal proposition for those who start a diving adventure, where during unlimited dives on the camp reefs of Marsa Shagra and Marsa Nakari, they will gain considerable experience. For expert divers, however, who want to devote their entire stay in Egypt to diving and wish to relax from crowded resorts – the best option will be the unspoilt Wadi Lahami. Eco Camps are places that allow you to "slow down" for a while and feel the real atmosphere of diving, so desired nowadays by all of us – divers – the atmosphere that we miss so much.

Photos used with Red Sea Diving Safari permission

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

t r av e l s

Two faces of Sulawesi Text sylwia kosmalska-juriewicz

Photos adrian juriewicz

Lion Air plane is slowly approaching to land. The

It has been eight years since our first trip to Indonesia. When I am here my senses are constantly sharpened. I feel a special connection with this place. It is impossible to express it in words and as the Nobel Prize winner Rabindranath Tagore wrote: "Let us be happy that we are in this world. We are bound to it with countless threads that stretch from the Earth to the stars."

bird's eye view allows us to look at everything from

a different perspective. The ocean, which is usually slightly rough, seems to be as still as the surface of a mirror in which the emerald sky is reflected. The small hills overgrown with palm forests, the protruding volcanoes, all create an extremely beautiful landscape. After a while, the wheels of the Boeing 737 hit with great force the runway of Sam Ratulangi International Airport in Manado. For a short time the engines are spinning at the highest speed as the pilot deploys the thrust reverser to stop the plane on the runway.

travels

Bunaken National Marine Park Tangkoko National Park Lembeh

sulawesi

hanced by the juicy greenery that surrounds the hotel and the village where it is located. Two high towers of the Catholic church rise above the small local community. The villagers live in single-storey, modest houses coloured in all shades of the rainbow. They especially like the colours of pistachio, pink and blue. Next to the church there is a primary school, the fence of which is decorated with images of numerous sea creatures that occur in the Lembeh Strait. Colourful drawings are more like fairytale creatures than living beings. The locals smile at us kindly, and the children ask in broken English where we are from and what our names are. On the main asphalt road, there are two grocery stores where the assortment of products is very small. The main products lying on the shelves are sweets packed in plastic film which we later see in the seas and oceans. We unhurriedly eat breakfast and enjoy delicious morning coffee, which pleasantly introduces us to a new The airport is small, similar to the ones I have seen

day. Today, the chef recommends Nasi Goreng, which

before in the Maldives, Palau or Nepal. We pick up our

is rice fried with vegetables, very often enriched with

luggage and head to the exit. Outside, a driver is waiting

chicken or seafood. It is a traditional Indonesian dish

to take us to the hotel two hours away from the airport.

that residents can eat three times a day.

Foaming waves wash the shore of the coast where our

After breakfast, we sail out for the first dive. We get in

hotel and diving center stand. The sand on the beach is

the boat from the pier, the boat is very comfortable and

black, volcanic, completely different from the kind we

spacious, with a shower and toilet on board. Our diving

were used to when travelling in Indonesia. A small wood-

equipment has been carefully clarified and all its compo-

en bridge slightly protrudes into the Molucca Sea, creat-

nents signed. Even the drinking cup and towels have been

ing a marina for three diving boats. The hotel's garden

personalized. Great service for such a small diving center.

is planted with bushes of the bougenville in all shades

A special space has also been set aside for photographers,

of amaranth. The place exudes peace, this feeling is en-

where they can safely put away the equipment.

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

travels

The first dive site is just five minutes away from our

Two colourful octopuses fighting with each other for

hotel. We stop near the fishing village, where several tiny

a plastic bottle. As elsewhere in the world, here at the

wooden boats are moored.

bottom of the Lembeh Strait there is a lot of rubbish...

The water in the Lembeh Strait seems to be gray,

Sea creatures have adapted them to create temporary

thanks to the sandy, dark bottom, which particularly ap-

shelters. Nothing goes to waste. An octopus in a bottle,

peals to unbelievable small creatures. It is for them that

and a shell instead of the bottle cap. The idea is to hide

divers roam the whole world.

in order not to be eaten. In the course of evolution sea

We immerse ourselves slowly, the sharp sun pene-

animals have evolved amazing methods of camouflage

trates the smooth water surface, forming long streaks

and luring their victims. Leaf scorpion fish becomes like

of light that touch the sandy bottom. The water temper-

a leaf, at the moment of danger it lies limp on the sand

ature exceeds the pleasant 28°C.

and pretends that it is not there. Hairy frog fish resem-

We swim behind the guide just above the bottom

bles anemone and lures its prey with a kind of a "fishing

carefully propelling ourselves with the fins so as not to

rod with bait" that grows out of his head. He waves it

stir up the water on the bottom. Single anemones grow

like crazy to draw the attention of a potential victim.

out of it like oases in a desert. The landscape is truly

Each of the specimens plays the main role in this the-

lunar, the emptiness as far as the eye can see. There

atre and although I take in everything that surrounds

are no sea currents and visibility exceeds 15 metres.

me, whenever a frog fish, octopus, cuttlefish or crab

After a while we hear a metallic sound, our dive master

appears on the stage, the rest of the scenery becomes

taps the cylinder with a metal stick, thus informing us

only the background. I stare at these tiny creatures, as

that he has found the first specimen. Just sharpen your

if a spotlight was shining on them, while the rest of the

eyes and start looking carefully, observe, and what is

stage, the small sea anemones and small fish plunge

hidden will be revealed to you in full glory. It is difficult

into darkness, seeming gray and blurry. I feel great joy,

to describe in words, but after a while miracles begin

the same euphoria that I felt at the beginning when

to happen: the sand hitherto dark and sterile reveals

I was learning to dive, and everything around was new,

its treasures, the bottom of the strait comes to life.

as if out of this world.

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

travels

For as long as I can remember, I have been fascinated by adventure and documentary films which are mainly about the search for treasures. I absorbed them with passion, and I watch some of them several times. Diving in the Strait of Lembeh I feel like a treasure hunter, a dis-

Diving in the Strait of Lembeh I feel like a treasure hunter, a discoverer of creatures from another planet.

coverer of creatures from another planet. Not only diving in the Strait of Lembeh deserves our attention, but also the Tangkoko National Park, locat-

get to know you, it checks your smell." Before we came to

ed at the foot of Mount Dua Saudara in the province of

the jungle, I had used half a tube of mosquito repellent,

Bitung. It was created to prevent the extinction of ani-

I had lubricated my skin thoroughly. My scent can only

mals that occur in this region of the world. We reach the

scare it away, I thought. And so it happened, mosqui-

reserve before nine o'clock. This is the perfect time to

toes circled fearlessly over us and the macaque escaped

meet birds and other mammals that are most active in

like hell with the rest of the bunch deep into the jungle.

the morning. Two gangs of black macaques, Rambo I and

For a while, we wander together through the rain for-

Rambo II, in the number of over 200, rest between the

est, watching one another. Sweat is running down our

trees indulging in beauty treatments. The monkeys are

back, the humidity exceeds 80%, in such conditions you

beautiful, handsome and so black that it is difficult to see

can dehydrate very quickly. We drink water from a water

their eyes and snouts that merge into one. We approach

bottle very slowly, in small sips, this is the best way to

slowly so as not to frighten them away. We observe one

hydrate the body.

another, we are curious. A medium-sized macaque ap-

We stop between large teak trees: "Look up" says our

proaches me, a male with a beautiful mohawk on his

guide, "these are cuscuses, “bears” from the marsupial

head, he has one foot missing, maybe he lost it during

family, an endemic species threatened with extinction.

a fight with an animal or a human... Every creature has

They mate for life and live high in the trees, they do not

its own history just as humans do. He gently touches my

go down, they are afraid of man." They are difficult to

calf, and then immediately stops. Our guide sees this

see in the treetops and it is hardly surprising. Once, be-

scene and says: "Don't be afraid, the macaque wants to

cause of lack of food, they were shot at. Today they are

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

also killed, but for another reason, in order to prepare

siers (smallest primate), lizards with red collars, snakes

a meal for tourists and satisfy their culinary curiosity.

and many other creatures. The jungle shelters countless

The same goes for monkeys, lizards and birds. I do not

wild animals. It is a reserve created so that the creatures

understand how you can kill animals for entertainment

who inhabit this area can live without fear that man will

or frills. At hotels in Manado and the surrounding area,

deprive them of life.

you can buy a trip to a mountain village where game

After several days spent off the coast of the Lembeh

dishes are served. The more we delve into the forest,

Strait, we sailed to the Bunaken National Marine Park.

the more animals we encounter on our way: birds, tar-

It was founded in 1991 and includes both sea and land

areas. Dives in the Bunaken National Marine Park are very different from those in the Lembeh Strait. We usually dive at steeply falling walls covered with corals and beautiful gorgonians. The visibility exceeds 30 metres and is the same throughout the year. The coral reef resembles the one IÂ saw on Raja Ampat, it is very well preserved. During one dive, we find huge turtles resting on rocky shelves or swimming just near the water surface, as well as white tip, black tip and silver tip sharks. During our visit to Bunaken National Marine Park, we also visited aÂ local village, where the inhabitants lead aÂ quiet, modest life... they take care of family and neighbourly relations, meet, talk and celebrate together. They experience moments that are now rare in Europe...

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

planet earth

“Dolphin Reef” in Eilat new opportunities, new threats Text and photos jakub banasiak

t is the end of October 2015. While being towed to the

The road to freedom often abounds in surprising dramatic situations. The biggest chance for freedom for bottlenose dolphins on "Dolphin Reef" in Eilat turned out to be an underwater incident that took place here. Damage caused by a drifting ship led to the situation in which the dolphins, previously enclosed in a large sea pen, can now freely swim into the open waters of the Gulf of Aqaba.

port of Eilat, the great freighter Suprastar, flying the flag

of the Marshall Islands, is pushed by a very strong wind straight towards the "Dolphin Reef" fence. At the last moment, to prevent a disaster, the captain starts all of the ship's engines and miraculously sets the watercraft on the right course. However, the action of powerful propellers destroys the nets separating the dolphins from the bay waters as well as part of the floating barrier. The boards and the structure of the fence fall down like a domino, the broken rigid net devastates the corals. View platforms are dancing on a giant wave. Tourists flee

planet earth

pletely different basis than tourists, and then another visit, gave me quite a good insight into how this place works. Yes, dolphins could have swum into the open waters of the bay years ago through a special gate in a net. But then this "window" was closed permanently so that the dolphins could not get outside without control because it caused many problems, exposing the dolphins to the mindless behaviour of tourists, not only on the shores of Eilat, but also on the Egyptian side. After all, this was the objective of the authorities, which required that the owners of dolphins, legally responsible for their safety, do not expose animals to feeding by unauthorized persons, the risk of accidental trapping or acts of aggression by fishermen (decision of the Natural Resources Office in 2002). In addition, they are Atlantic bottlenose dolphins – tursiops truncatus ponticus – an alien species here. And now are the dolphins supposed to be unattended and move around wherever they like? Rather doubtful... The only solution is to check everything yourself. I have to admit that I have a very ambivalent attitude towards "Dolphin Reef". Although it is not a classic dolphinarium, but rather a very large sea pen, inhabited by a family group of bottlenose dolphins, with a private beach and recreational areas, yet it still does condemn dolphins to live in a limited space and to the presence of tourists. The mere fact of contacts with the caretakers and guides of diving and swimming with dolphins programs (who touch and stroke dolphins), the presence of tourists in the water and the fact that the animals are fed several times a day, affect their behaviour. At first glance, you can see how strong this habituation process is and how the animals are attached emotionally to their caregivers and accustomed to additional meals. Indo-Pacific bottlenose

to the beach in panic. This frightening incident however results only in large material losses. Soon, the owners of "Dolphin Reef" make a decision – on a new floating fence there will no longer be a net separating the dolphins from freedom. The bottlenose dolphins can now swim outside the sea pen whenever they want... When I heard this story some time ago, I was quite sceptical. I did not really believe that dolphins from "Dolphin Reef" were really free. I know this place quite well, I spent a lot of time there among dolphins, I did a course in dolphin biology and dolphin therapy at Ben-Gurion University. Staying there for several days, on a comDolphin reef

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

Ordinary bottlenose

On the other hand, dolphins live in seawater on over 14 thousand square meters, they are not forced to do

diving with dolphins programs were abolished and close relationships with caregivers were kept to a minimum.

anything, they do what they want, they are not subject

Five days in December of the last year which I spent

to any training or rigor. They do not work and are not

inside and around "Dolphin Reef", allowed me to see

in any way encouraged to interact with tourists or pa-

exactly how much bottlenose dolphins are free to move

tients during dolphin therapy sessions. The fish they get

and swim outside the floating barrier. And indeed – what

are not a reward for obedience or any activity. They are

seemed so beautiful turned out to be a fact :) The view

simply regular, predictable meals, served 5 times a day

of the dorsal fins among the waves outside the pen is

and accounting for about 40–50% of daily demand. For

something wonderful and very positive. It turned out

the rest of the food, the dolphins must hunt themselves.

that the dolphins can actually swim anywhere under the

Caregivers ensure that divers and swimmers do not

fence at any time and enjoy the freedom. Underwater,

touch the animals or stress them in any way. If dolphins

they are not limited by any nets, except the only one

swim to people themselves – that is ok, but if they do not

separating the beach resort from the rest of the pen. An-

intend to, they are not forced to have contact with peo-

imals usually leave in the afternoon and evening, going

ple. This also applies to therapeutic sessions. Regardless

hunting – just like their free brothers – at dusk.

of the parents' expectations, if dolphins are not going to

Dolphins often feed outside and explore the area also

establish a relationship with a child, they will simply not

at dawn. That is why in the early morning hours I decid-

swim and all therapeutic work will be carried out only

ed to monitor their activity for two days in a row, this

by a human therapist. The level of the well-being of the

time in water and underwater, swimming near "Dolphin

four dolphins currently living there is therefore drastical-

Reef", in the open sea. The unmistakable signal and the

ly different and higher than in any other dolphinarium.

best motivator to get into the water were the outlines

It seems that if they could actually leave "Dolphin Reef"

of fins flashing among the waves and the characteristic

freely, swim out and come back whenever they want, this

sounds of dolphin breaths. A few moments of waiting in

facility would function to a large extent like a coastal dol-

the water and at the sight of dolphins swimming in my

phin sanctuary. Of course, provided that swimming and

direction, freely crossing the border of the sea pen, I feel

planet earth

the hormones of happiness rage in me. Dolphins appear and disappear, busy with their affairs, every few minutes swimming nearby, returning to the pen, then again outside in a different place. Sometimes one, sometimes

An Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphin had been coming here regularly for

two individuals appeared. Occasionally they kept their

two weeks. It is easy to distinguish

distance, at other times they swam just a meter away

this species, because Indo-Pacific

from me or looked directly into the mask and lens of the underwater camera. Underwater, no trace of the net or

bottlenoses are smaller, more slender

another obstacle. At last, there is no limit to dolphins'

than an ordinary bottlenose, have

living space!

longer beaks and spots on the stomach.

While in the interior of "Dolphins Reef" and diving there, to check the current living conditions from the inside, I was able to see several times that alien, wild dolphins came into the site. An Indo-Pacific bottlenose

son here in the water, and there was enough daylight

dolphin had been coming here regularly for two weeks.

to watch everything around me. "My" wild companion

It is easy to distinguish this species, because Indo-Pacific

mainly swam alone, only sometimes appearing with one

bottlenoses are smaller, more slender than an ordinary

of the other bottlenose dolphins, but he did not interact

bottlenose, have longer beaks and spots on the stomach.

with them. Instead, he became more and more familiar

I did not think that I would meet him both inside and

with my presence and accompanied me in close proxim-

outside "Dolphin Reef". The next day I swam near the

ity for longer and longer. Meeting dolphins in the wild is

pen, and he did not swim as close as the native inhabit-

something completely different than diving with them in

ants of "Dolphin Reef", but he was clearly interested and

a fenced bay, a hundred meters away.

appeared nearby every few minutes. He swam into the

The possibility for dolphins to swim freely outside

pen, and in a moment he moved outside again, towards

"Dolphin Reef" has another side, however. There is al-

me. From six to nine in the morning I was the only per-

ways a price for freedom. It turned out that the bottle-

Indo-Pacific bottlenose

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

torboat propeller screw are the most common cause of dolphin death in waters besieged by tourists. There is also increasing pressure from divers and freedivers on dolphins hunting and playing outside "Dolphin Reef". Morning dives in the area in order to meet bottlenose dolphins are becoming more and more popular. There was rarely a situation when I was the only person in the water. In the season at dawn, nearby parking lots are filled with cars belonging to amateurs of the undersea world. How many of them follow the basic principles nose dolphins swimming outside are a magnet for tour-

of diving with dolphins? It would be very bad if dolphins,

ists coming here on motorboats and small cruise ships.

stressed by the presence of more and more people in

Actually, motorboats are also a magnet for dolphins. It is

the water, tried to hunt somewhere further. The Gulf

not known what is the biggest attraction for these marine

of Aqaba is not very friendly to marine mammals. It is

mammals – whether the vibration of the motor boat pro-

a very busy communication route, with many private

peller screws or the sound of the engines, or the waves

motorboats, water scooters, merchant ships, and fast

they create. In particular, they developed a liking for two

navy chasers. On the other hand, on the nearby Egyptian

fast motor boats generating large waves and would play

coast there is even more tourist pressure. An equally bad

around with joy on the bow waves and in the wake.

alternative would be if the stressed bottlenose dolphins

The problem, however, is that in the afternoon several boats approach the barrier simultaneously. Sometimes

remained within the "Dolphin Reef" pen, which would again become a prison for them.

there are more than five at the same time. They accel-

As usual, everything depends on us, people, on our

erate, spin around, accelerate over a short distance, all

responsible approach to tourism, diving and communing

in the immediate vicinity of dolphins, in order to attract

with nature. When I attended a dolphin biology course

their attention and provoke them to swim and have fun.

here in 2013, there were 8 bottlenose dolphins in "Dol-

We know – the point is for tourists to have as much fun as

phin Reef". Today, only 4 of them live in this group. Two

possible and the best opportunity for photos. But in such

died because of poisoning from the food that tourists

conditions it is difficult not to collide with a dolphin. And

served to them on nearby beaches and reefs. How many

after all, wounds resulting from a collision with a mo-

will survive until my next visit to Eilat?

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Hazard Identification and Risk Assessment – HIRA

he DAN Hazard Identification and Risk Assessment

The main benefit of implementing the DAN HIRA

(HIRA) program was created to help you identify

program is the reduction of the likelihood, severity

and reduce the risks associated with running a busi-

and impact of incidents. However, the benefits are

ness in the diving industry. This program is an adap-

much broader:

tation of well-known HIRA practices used in aviation, medicine, production and other fields, as well as by security services around the world. DAN has adapted the program to take into account real diving threats,

pact on your business •• reduction of potential injuries to clients and employees

offering realistic and pragmatic risk assessment and

•• reducing the long-term costs of potential injuries

mitigation strategies.

•• reducing long-term liability costs

The HIRA DAN program is a basic element of DAN's work in cultivating a safety culture in the diving community; its value and usability are supported by industry experts as well as DAN experts around the world. The DAN HIRA program helps dive center owners, dive operators and their employees identify hazards before they lead to an accident.

•• improving training, reducing staff turnover •• use of DAN marketing input; DAN will promote your HIRA activities and achievements •• establishing and maintaining an organizational culture of security The DAN HIRA program has been divided into 3 levels (HIRA Level 1, HIRA Level 2, HIRA Level 3) and 3 categories

If you run a diving business, you must be well pre-

dedicated to various groups professionally related to div-

pared and equipped. Only in this way you will be able

ing – Diving Instructors, Diving Centers, Dive Operators.

to dive safely and deal with emergencies or accidents.

Levels 1 and 2 are based on a fair self-assessment

This way you will be perceived as a professional by both

completing the questionnaire, and level 3, dedicated

clients and your employees. The DAN HIRA program was

to Diving Companies employing many employees, is

created as an indication of a strategy for proactive ac-

a physical assessment at the headquarters of the Diving

cident prevention and mitigation, so that we can enjoy

Center/ Operator.

diving in a safe way.

•• minimizing the severity of incidents and their im-

HIRA Level 1

Participation is free for DAN members and DAN business partners Dive centers – Dive operators – Dive instructors Level one certification requirements TRAINING – Staff trained in first aid, BLS and oxygen administration EQUIPMENT – First-aid kits and oxygen kits are readily available at the dive site or pool INSURANCE – General insurance against civil and / or professional liability is required STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES * – Pre-dive safety instructions (for pool and dive site), Boat safety information, Dive briefings and the number of people after a dive using the physical checklist EMERGENCY ACTION PLANS * – EAP created for lost divers, divers and other injuries HIRA Level 2

Level two is also free for DAN members and DAN business partners. It includes meeting all the first level requirements and implementing the practice of a wider range of operational procedures and contingency plans. TRAINING – Additional training that includes marine life injury (depending on adequacy), neurological examination and AED, if not included in previous courses; there should be at least one first aid instructor in the diving centers EQUIPMENT – Automated External Defibrillator (AED) ENVIRONMENT PROTECTION PLAN * STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES – proper maintenance of first aid kits and oxygen kits; diving refusal procedures on grounds of health; regular simulations / exercises of emergency procedures EMERGENCY ACTION PLANS – Additional EAP based on scope of activities – checklist provided HIRA Level 3

HIRA level 3 is a comprehensive assessment and detailed threat assessment. At this level, almost every aspect of business and diving operations is discussed, and additional EAPs are required depending on the scope of activities.

Join the program today by completing the questionnaire at www.daneurope.org, SAFETY tab > HIRA If you have any questions about this review, please write to hira@daneurope.org * you can read about it in the next issue of Perfect Diver

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

a r c h a e o l og y

Vikings rulers of the seas

Text Mateusz Popek

Photos wikimedia commons open accsess

Boat from Oseberg

history of Viking dominance of the

North East England, a foggy morning is awakening in the late spring of 793. Calm, silent monks are bustling around. Some of them are preparing for the service. The air is filled with prayer and quiet, peaceful work. The calm is broken by a sail emerging from the sea fog. The curious monks are confidently watching the arriving boat. Nobody expects what will happen.

seas begins. This fragment of prayer shows what terror they caused in Europe: A furore Normannorum libera nos, Domine (God, save us from the wrath of the Norsemen). In Icelandic sagas, the statement "set out on a viking" means to set out on a plundering expedition. The Old Norse male noun víkingr also derives

from this word, meaning persons nly when armed men jump out

This is not a description of the

who participated in such an expe-

of the boat, terror appears on

first episode of the Vikings series,

dition. This word appears in skaldic

the faces of the clergymen. The last

but a description of the real events

poetry and on runic stones. At first,

thing they hear in their lives are in-

that took place at the end of the

the Vikings came mainly from the ar-

comprehensible

eighth century. It is from the attack

eas of today's Sweden, Norway and

on Lindisfarne Monastery that the

Denmark. Later, this broadly defined

Norse language.

screams

the

archaeology

group was also joined by representatives of other peoples, including Slavs. Over several hundred years, the Norsemen conquered the Baltic Sea, the North Sea, the Mediterranean Sea, the Ruthenian rivers, and even reached America. Nothing could stop them, even the largest Frankish state of the day. Less than 100 years after the sacking of the English monastery in 885, a large Danish fleet of 700 ships sails into the Loire. They demand a great tribute from King Charles III the Fat. When the ruler refuses, a siege of Paris lasting over a year begins. Tired of constant fighting, the king pays the Vikings 350 kilograms of silver as ransom.

Viking conquests

Following the agreement, the fleet leaves, but on top of everything it also plunders Burgundy.

However, the Vikings did not al-

three years in exile, then returns to

ways fight. They were also very talent-

Iceland and advertises his discovery

Northern peoples did not always

ed merchants, whose boats reached

as "Greenland" or the green island.

plunder. They were also mercenar-

the farthest corners of Europe and

Icelanders let themselves be per-

ies. Around the year 1000, the Byz-

even the Arab world. They were also

suaded and colonize this island. In

antine emperor Basil II the Bulgar

explorers. Discoveries often occurred

the summer of 986, a Scandinavian

Slayer, appointed an elite unit made

in unexpected circumstances. At the

merchant wanting to sail to Green-

up mainly of northern people, call-

end of the tenth century, Erik the Red,

land loses his course in the fog and

ing it the Varangian Guard. It was

who lived in Iceland, got into conflict

after three days reaches an unknown

a unit faithful to the emperor, pro-

with his friend and killed his two sons.

land. He tells of his adventure to

tecting him from internal enemies.

As a result, he was banished from Ice-

Erik the Red's son, Leif Erikson, who

Even the future King of Norway

land for three years. He gets on his

founds a settlement in the new land

Harald III Hardrada was a member

boat and sails northwest where he

called Vinland, probably located in

of this formation.

finds a new land. He spends there the

Newfoundland. Until 1960, this story was considered a legend. However, it was that year that traces of the Viking settlement of L'Anse aux Meadows in Newfoundland were discovered. Even if Vikings were rulers of the seas, many of their ships would sink. Although thousands of them sank, it is impossible to dive on such a wreck at the moment. The discoveries of sunken Viking ships are extremely rare, and the wrecks themselves are very fragile. Therefore, they can be admired more often in a museum than in the sea. Thanks to the specific way of burying the dead, who were laid in

Helge Ask war boat reconstruction from Skuldelev

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

Boat from Oseberg

boats and then covered with mounds,

accurately as possible, archaeologists

17 meters and the other 30 meters.

perfectly preserved ships have been

surrounded the wreckage with a Lars-

The larger one could develop speeds

preserved to our time. One of them

sen sheet piling and pumped out the

of up to 17 knots and take 70 warriors

is a boat from Oseberg discovered

water. In this way, six wrecks were

aboard. There were also the wrecks

in 1903. In this beautifully decorated

raised. Two of them are the remains

of two cargo ships. They were much

boat, a woman from the social elites

of war boats. One of them measured

stockier than the war vessels and

was laid to rest. Another kurgan with a Viking boat inside was also found on the shores of the same Oslofjord in Gokstad. So much the Vikings had to be connected with the sea and their ships that they kept them even in the afterlife. If it was not possible to take the whole boat, the family tried to make the grave similar to a ship by laying stones in such a shape. However, the discovery from Skuldelev in the Roskilde Fjord (Denmark) contributed the most to the knowledge of Viking ships and sailing. At the end of the 11th century, the Danes sank six ships here to block the entrance to the port. Thanks to this, modern scientists could find out how ships looked at that time. To be able to investigate the place of sinking as Boat from Oseberg

Boat from Oseberg

archaeology

Rune stone

Viking sword head

could take up to 20 tonnes of cargo on board. One of them was capable of sailing across the Atlantic. These wrecks show how smoothly war and trade intertwined in the Viking world. It is amazing how such aÂ cold and infertile earth could have born such great sailors and warriors, or maybe it was indeed the harsh climate that made people hard enough so that they were willing to conquer the whole known world of that time. Over the course of these few hundred years, Viking ships sailed to the ends of the world known to medieval Europe and even beyond. They were pirates, merViking swords

cenaries, merchants and explorers. They were the people of the sea with which they could not part even after death. They were the Vikings. Viking sword advertisement

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

c av e s

Maria Concordia Mine a new place on the diving map of poland Text and photos bartek pitala

People who enjoy diving in confined spaces â&#x20AC;&#x201C; be it mines or caves or other anthropogenic creations â&#x20AC;&#x201C; do not have an easy life in Poland. Flooded caves in our country are only short siphons found in the depths of dry parts of caves, primarily in the Tatra mountains, access to which requires rather advanced knowledge of speleological techniques.

caves

Wroclaw sobótka

t's a bit better with the mines, but we are still talking here mainly about short, shallow, often very unstable

locations known only to a handful of enthusiasts. It is not surprising, therefore, that each new discovery arouses keen interest from native "cavemen". In recent years, the Maria Concordia mine located in Sobótka in Lower Silesia has become such a novelty. Of course, speaking of a new site, I mean a place adapted for "touristic" diving. The very fact of the existence of the mine had been known to explorers for years, and the turbulent history of exploitation, shutdown, and subsequent exploration is a topic for a separate, very interesting article. In short, the establishment of the mine is dated to the period preceding the First World War. There are documents that during the Second World War factories producing parts for aircraft and heavy artillery tractors operated in the mine. Interestingly – these parts of the mine were not found after the war, despite the large space they occupied – according to documents we are talking about volumes exceeding 8000 m3. The mine ended its operations in the 1960s. At that time, most of the shafts enabling the discovery of secrets hidden by the underground were closed, and the memory of the mine itself began to fade with the death of its former employees and nearby residents. The mine was accessed again by a group of enthusiasts who, after years of searching, in 2012, managed to discover the entrance to the "Ewa" shaft at the bottom of a decades-old pile of rubbish and debris. However, because of the interest in the subject of other explorers and previous failed attempts to enter the mine as a result of reckless actions, the group decided to keep

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

Photo 1

the fact of finding the shaft secret. Over the next three

In autumn 2019, there was finally an opportunity

years, the team explored the dry and flooded parts of the

to personally explore the flooded corridors of Maria

mine under the cover of night. To complete the picture,

Concordia. I was particularly interested in the afore-

one small detail needs to be mentioned – in order to

mentioned 40-meter descent to the bottom of the shaft

reach the bottom of the dry part, it is necessary to make

– after all, access to water does not often require such

a 40-meter descent on a rope. And then go the same way

"somersaults". Important information for those who do

up. Not to mention diving equipment...

not necessarily consider hanging over a several-doz-

All this effort could have been wiped out in 2016. Then

en-meter hole in the ground as a great attraction – the

the entrance leading to the shaft was unexpectedly back-

entire way down is supervised by at least two members

filled with soil and debris. It turned out that the munic-

of the Maria Concordia team, well-acquainted with rope

ipality had started cleaning up the land for sale where

techniques, and the station itself – just look at Photo 1

the entrance to the mine was located. As a result of this

– is a professional installation guaranteeing the highest

turn of events, the explorers decided to disclose their

level of security. The other equally, if not more impor-

activities to the city authorities. Fortunately, it turned out

tant, information is that for transporting us and tens of

that the authorities not only were not against, but even

kilograms of our equipment down is responsible the

supported the initiative to preserve the mine for diving

electrically operated lift, so you do not have to be as fit

and tourist activities. Finally, at the turn of 2016 and

as young Schwarzenegger to think about diving in the

2017, the group managed to buy the land and officially

mine. Thanks to the use of the lift and a professional sup-

start the project called the pre-war name of the mine –

port team, transporting four divers and their equipment

"Maria Concordia".

down is a matter of just over an hour. And the same on

caves

Photo 2

the way back. So you can see that this is an action that,

find something for themselves. The most extensive is the

depending on the experience of the team members, can

6 m level, which makes it an ideal spot to make a longer

be completed in a few hours.

or shorter decompression phase there after visiting the

Once all our gear is with us at the bottom of the dry

lower levels. This level offers several corridors with a to-

part of the mine, it is time to prepare for the dive – put on

tal length of several hundred meters. Personally, I was

suits, fix additional side cylinders, inspect the equipment,

impressed with the part with perfectly preserved prop-

etc. Another nice surprise is that we start diving in the

ping – this is a very photogenic place (Photo 2). The most

same shaft that we covered on our way from the surface

compact is the deepest level – swimming around it is

– thanks to this our stuff is waiting for us just by the water

a matter of a maximum of several minutes.

and there is no need for exhausting and time-consum-

The visibility in the mine is very good. What's more,

ing transportation of it to further parts of the mine. The

due to the fairly large dimensions of the corridors and

shaft itself is interesting, but its dimensions force us to

halls, the stirred sediments and the resulting from it lack

immerse one after another, which means that those who

of visibility should not become a problem for a team able

enter the water last must expect "jacuzzi" effect in the

to control their buoyancy. In many places we will come

immersion phase.

across heaps of boulders resembling goafs – they are in

The big advantage of the underwater part of the mine

fact dams created by miners at the end of mine exploita-

is the variation of depth – several levels are flooded, at

tion. Many of them were dug out by a team of explorers

depths (about) 6, 15, 22, and 35 m – so everyone will

to the extent that allows them to get to further parts of

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

Photo 3

the mine, but work is still underway to provide access

along the pavements, while the mine was still in oper-

to further, currently blocked, parts of the mine. A char-

ation, were preserved in this clay to this day. It is true

acteristic phenomenon that I had not encountered in

that these are not prehistoric or even medieval traces,

other mines, which I had visited up to that point, are the

but this phenomenon deepens the well-known impres-

silvery-white veins of magnesite appearing in the walls.

sion of divers being in a "time machine". Naturally, in

In some places, they take on really impressive sizes, like

the mine we will also find "standard" attractions of this

the one in Photo 3.

type of places, i.e. the remains of operational infrastruc-

In some places, clay is deposited at the bottom of the

ture – pipes, machine parts, the whole structure of the

mine. There would be nothing overly interesting about

shaft, along which we move to subsequent levels of the

it, if not for the fact that the footprints of people walking

mine, wooden structures or railway. Visiting each avail-

able nook and corner requires us to spend about 1.5–2 hours in the water. We can either "speed" through the entire mine during one longer dive, or choose to perform two shorter ones. Of course, you will need cave diving certificate to dive in the mine. In my opinion, this place is definitely worth seeing, even if you have already been to Kobanyi, Dubrovnik, Miltitz or Kowary. Maria Concordia combines various features of these mines – immersion through the shaft, interesting rocks, elements of mining infrastructure, corridors, tighter dams, more spacious chambers – and adds a few unique features. This mix makes diving there an interesting experience that you will probably want to repeat.

You can contact the management team and make an appointment via the Facebook fan page: „Kopalnia Maria Concordia”

t r av e l s

Rummu

Text and photos beata tabak

Rummu in Estonia is aÂ flooded former post-Soviet penal colony and quarry. When mining was finished and the pumps stopped working, the pit filled with water, creating an unusual turquoise lake of great transparency with sunken buildings, fragments of walls, constructions, machines and trees. For many years, this place has tempted divers desiring interesting underwater views.

travels

Tallinn

rummu estonia

Riga latvia

lithuania

Vilnius

stonia is a small country with an area slightly larger than Denmark and a population smaller than War-

saw. Estonia's biggest tourist attraction is Tallinn with its beautiful medieval old town, and idyllic islands and national parks compete for tourists. But for lovers of underwater exploration, just 30 kilometers away from Tallinn, there is another attraction, although it may not be the most appropriate word because of the history of this place. The blue waters of the artificial reservoir Rummu, called by the locals the "Blue Lagoon", hide the remains of the former Soviet prison and quarry. The Rummu quarry was opened in 1938 and it excavated limestone, called Vasalemma marble (the name comes from a nearby town). From the beginning of the existence of this place, the workforce there were prisoners located next to the Murru prison. For several dozen years, working in three shifts, in difficult conditions, the prisoners excavated tons of limestone. The evidence are the limestone heaps rising several dozen meters away from the reservoir, currently taken over by nature, separated by deep ditches carved by rainwater. From the top of these "hills" there is a magnificent view on the surrounding area and the Rummu reservoir. You can see the buildings protruding from the water and other remains of former buildings looming below it. The quarry operated until 1991. When the demand for the extracted material decreased, the pumps were turned off and ground water quickly flooded the quarry and part of the prison, creating a unique artificial reservoir.

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

on the month is from a few to several degrees Celsius.

A good time for diving is spring and autumn, when the visibility is best. ... The depth is about 12 m, although there are divers who noted 13 m depth; it is not easy to find it. However, most of the attractions are located not that deep.

A good time for diving is spring and autumn, when the visibility is best. Though it is true that you can dive there at any time of the year, due to the operating summer beach it is better to avoid the holiday period, when bathers effectively spoil the visibility in water. The depth is about 12 m, although there are divers who noted 13 m depth; it is not easy to find it. However, most of the attractions are located not that deep. You can dive from the shore, outside the Paekalda Puhkekeskus centre, where there is convenient road

Lake Rummu covers the area of 88 ha and is private,

and a bridge. Access to water in other places means

mostly surrounded by a rather dilapidated wall. A semi-

you have to carry equipment several dozen meters and

wild bathing beach operates in summer on the side of

go through holes in the fence. An alternative solution is

the heaps and near buildings rising above the water. On

to rent a floating platform that can be moored directly

the opposite side of the lake there is the Paekalda Puh-

above the dive site. This way you can avoid the need

kekeskus resort, where you can stop and dive from the

to swim underwater to places farther from the shore.

shore. Visibility under water reaches 5–10 meters and

There are ropes, but information about their location is

the temperature, similarly to Polish waters, depending

insufficient and it is not always known where they lead.

travels

The place from which it is good to start the dive is close to the bathing beach by the buildings protruding from the water. It's basically a site with three attractions and if there's enough time it is good to have two dives there. Post-industrial reinforced concrete buildings look underwater more attractive than what can be seen above water. When the sun is shining, the magical play of light coming through the windows or breaks in the walls creates a fabulous underwater scenery. Wide rooms allow for safe exploration, but if you are in this place for the first time, it is better to use a guide. The depth is only 5 meters. Next to a large building, there are several smaller ones that are also worth seeing. In fact, one whole dive can be spent visiting these buildings, especially if you are an underwater photographer. There is another interesting place nearby, where you can swim from the buildings, admiring on the way the underwater green meadows and occasionally fish passing quickly. This is the famous prison wall. Once impossible to cross, over two meters high, reinforced with barbed wire, now can be easily crossed over and admired from all sides. Here and there there are lanterns mounted on the wall, entwined with freshwater aquatic plants, creating a rather gloomy and fascinating underwater view. Swimming along the wall, you can get to the gate through which the prisoners used to pass to work. But this is not the end yet, if there is still some air in the cylinder. Not far away from the wall there is a magical underwater forest. Dozens of trees and shrubs with branches fancifully twisted in each direction create a beautiful scenery. On a sunny day, rays of light breaking through complete the whole picture. It's easy to lose orientation and get lost. The deepest place where one can try to get at 13 meters depth is the pumping station. The building itself allows exploration both outside and inside. Swimming around the pump station we will discover a transformer, roller, other barracks or various remains of a former activity in the form of a ladder, chair or pan. Wooden huts are another interesting place. In this freshwater environment, despite all these years, wood has been well preserved. Diving begins with the remains of a brick building, a labyrinth of corridors, where you can see a metal closet for documents. I wonder what papers were hidden in it, but we will never find it out. A few meters away is the first barrack out of several ones, most of them wooden. Interestingly, next to one of them there is a board with a plan which makes it easier to move

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

can be difficult, because it is a long way to cover. One

Rummu is located about 1000 km from Warsaw and you have to spend the whole day travelling.

of the ropes leads to this place. A much better option here is a barge, which we moor over one machine and descend to the depth of about 9 meters. From the barge

It's a nice place for an extended weekend:

we use the ropes to reach the remaining machines. You

there is so many things under water that

have to be patient, individual groups of machines are

there are enough attractions for 5 or 6 dives.

several dozen meters apart and between them a flat meadow stretches, in which sometimes fish appear, but in general this is a monotonous and boring part. The machines we would consider only as scrap metal

around the area. Some buildings allow it to get inside,

on the surface, gain majesty under water. Crumbling

where things left by former residents or employees are

and scattered along the bottom, they become home to

still found.

fish and freshwater plants. In this form it is difficult to

A quarry means also huge drilling machines and we

discover their former purpose, some may have been

can also find them in Rummu. They are almost in the

used for limestone mining, some might have been used

middle of the lake and getting there from the shore

for transport.

Finally, you can leave the dive from the shore at Paekalda Puhkekeskus and do it at night. Rummu waters are poor in fish, and after dark there is a greater chance of meeting them, though there is no guarantee. Here, underwater, you can admire the spectacular walls and heaps of stones, so it was certainly a place of mining. Several-meter stones pile up on top of each other, creating hills cut by valleys. It all looks like a lunar landscape. Rummu is located about 1000 km from Warsaw and you have to spend the whole day travelling. It's a nice place for an extended weekend: there is so many things under water that there are enough attractions for 5 or 6 dives. Additionally, it can be combined with a trip to Tallinn and visiting the medieval old town. It is worth visiting the maritime museum and looking into the Estonian submarine Lembita. On the way home, you can still drop in to Hańcza lake and visit dugouts there or look for crayfish.

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

t r av e l s

Quarry in Uzhgorod (ukraine - transcarpathia) Text Karol Pencil Ołówek

Photos Karol Pencil Ołówek, Małgorzata Habel

"Every unknown leads somewhere". David Mitchell – Cloud Atlas

planeta ziemia

Kiev

Lvov

ello again to all readers of the series of travels through unknown and little-known diving sites  uzhgorod

Not often do we hear about Ukraine and its waters when talking about popular diving destinations. While the Black Sea and its wrecks are visited by diving tourists, the lakes and quarries are still very little known. Once again, we have found that these are interesting and unusual places 

from the shore that visibility was simply non-existent. Greenish-brown colour did not encourage people to en-

Where did the idea of diving in the Ukrainian quarry

ter the water and we resigned from diving that day. We

come from?

promised ourselves that we would return to this place in autumn or winter, because as we know, water in this type

A few years back, we dived with friends in Lake Svitiaz

of pits usually clears up in the cooler months.

lying in the group of Shatsk lakes – it was an unforget-

Access from Krakow to Uzhgorod through Slovakia is

table experience for us, not only because of the under-

not a big problem, but unfortunately only fragments of

water views themselves, but also because of interesting

the route leading to Ukraine are faster. We need to be

circumstances associated with a diving trip to these rath-

patient while travelling along the not very fast local roads

er unusual places.

of the mediocre quality. Unfortunately, another test of

Last year, while visiting Ukrainian Transcarpathia (also

our mental resilience is the Slovakia-Ukrainian border

Zakarpattia), we managed to find a picturesquely located

crossing point with unpleasant service on both sides of

reservoir near the centre of the capital of the Uzhgorod

the boarder. We were waiting to cross the border for

region. We arrived there in the summer and it was clear

about 2 hours – in one direction! Ukrainians did not hide

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

their surprise asking us several times why anyone was interested in diving in their country. On the site the roads were in poor condition, and the road to the quarry was rather a challenge for a 4x4 car (cars with very low suspension may get seriously damaged). According to a few sources, the Uzhgorod quarry was built around 1880. It operated as a place for the extraction of andesite – material for railway tracks and for construction. In the pit for years functioned a rather inefficient, narrow-gauge transport. The mine ceased operations in the 70s of the 20th century and since then the reservoir gradually filled with water. According to various sources, the depth is from 30 to 40 meters. Currently, this place gives a rather depressing impression. On the shore there is an abandoned restaurant along with the remains of quarry buildings reminiscent of the previous era. You can see the remnants of the machines and a lot of garbage. On Saturday morning we drove down to the quarry, providing on our way assistance to the locals with

travels

a punctured tyre. While we were preparing the equip-

perature was 15°C at the surface (October 2019) and

ment by the lake, several higher-class cars appeared

8°C under water.

with local, rather shady gym goers who, however, politely

Despite the considerable littering, the reservoir is in-

greeted and dealt with their business on the side. Such

teresting, though dangerous with a lot of wires, fishing

a local colour 

lines, sheets, broken glass.

After entering the water we got a very positive sur-

The whole trip is another interesting experience. We

prise. The visibility, after what we had seen in the sum-

can try good Ukrainian cuisine and visit new, though not

mer of the previous year, was very decent up to about

easy diving site. You need some luck as far as visibility is

5–8 meters. Interesting walls, lots of vegetation. We

concerned and you have to dive very carefully.

swam through the middle of the basin trying to find the

On the way back to the home country we had again

deepest place. Along the way we met the remains of ma-

a big problem at the border, this time 4 hours of queue-

chines and a pipeline running towards the bottom. At

ing and an over-diligent Ukrainian customs officer, who

a dozen or so meters, the visibility dropped to absolute

had nothing else to do but to pick on our cylinders in

zero, and after exploring the area, we did not decide to

which he though we were smuggling some contraband.

descend lower – because of a lot of sharp edges, metal

A small tip for those travelling abroad and crossing

sheets and scrap sensed only "by touch".

border control points: it is worth having a written list

We swam around the reservoir finding other Ukraini-

(declaration) of equipment that we bring to a country

an curiosities, i.e. many whole or cut into parts cars with

outside the EU. On your return you will avoid many un-

registration numbers, also successfully converted into

pleasant discussions.

puzzles. A local site for the disposal of mysteriously dis-

An interesting summary of this small trip may be the

appearing cars  Fortunately, there were no car owners

discussion which took place on the crossing-point. While

inside.

fighting difficulties with customs officers, we showed them

There are rather few specimens of fish, but a lot of crayfish live under stones and in rock crevices.

photos of sunken cars, which made them very interested and relaxed their official approach. Then the question

The maximum depth of this dive was about 15 meters

was asked: 'Were there many skeletons in these cars?'...

(below that level there was zero visibility – too danger-

This shows what kind of atmosphere we can encounter by

ous to dive in an unknown reservoir), the water tem-

choosing similar mysterious places in unusual countries.

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

planet earth

Feathered torpedoes Text and photos wojciech jarosz

Great cormorant, Poland

Streamlined silhouette, propulsion located near the stern, long range â&#x20AC;&#x201C; undoubtedly torpedo! But not soulless, cold, steel ones,

ormorants are very effective in their diving because natural selection and millions of years of evolution

have done their job. They have webbing between their toes, which of course is not unique among waterbirds, but this is not the only adaptation of cormorants for

whose only goal is to hit the target and destroy

diving. AÂ completely unique thing is the lack of water-

it spectacularly. This one is feathered, quite

proofness characteristic for many other bird swimmers.

clever and reusable. The cormorant under water is the quintessence of an effective hunter!

Cormorants feathers get soaked in water, making it easier for birds to submerge as they do not have to overcome the buoyancy of air trapped between the barbs of the feathers. After they finished hunting, of course,

planet earth

Great cormorants, Poland

they need to dry their flying equipment, because it's

them that would command the team (especially since by

hard to fly with wet wings. It is worth mentioning that

birth all cormorants have the highest ‘diving certificate’).

cormorants have relatively small wings for their size and

They create a formation, often in the shape of an arch,

therefore the energy consumption during the flight is

whose task is to chase the fish towards the shore, where

also very high in relation to their body weight. Such

it will be easier for birds to catch and swallow them.

wings, however, are less disturbing under water, and

Of course, cormorants regroup during subsequent at-

although they usually remain folded, they can be used

tacks so that each individual can eat. Such collective

for precise control in the depths. I wasn't carried away

hunting is not the only manifestation of the sociability

talking about these ‘depths’, as it turns out that cormo-

of cormorants. Cormorants live together – it's not us,

rants can go down really deep. The maximum recorded

humans, at all, inventing blocks of flats, the first ones to

depth at which the Crozet shag, aslo known as South

face the problem of an unfriendly neighbour living next

Georgia Cormorant (Phalacrocorax atriceps melanog-

door. The crowd in cormorants' colony doesn't seem

enis), a subspecies of the blue-eyed cormorant living on

to bother them too much, and the gains for the pop-

the subantarctic Islands of Prince Edward and Crozet

ulation from this accommodation model outweigh the

Islands (Indian Ocean), dived is 145 m! Most often, of

inconvenience. Young cormorants are a frequent prey

course, cormorants look for prey in much shallower

for larger birds, and in some places also for mammals.

water, especially when they hunt inland. They prefer

Strength in numbers – the chances of deflecting an at-

transparent waters, where their basic food can be seen

tack of a predator in a colony are greater than in the

best, and they are well prepared to see under water

case of a single brood.

– their eyes have amazing accommodation skills (up to

The cormorants usually build their flats made of sticks

40–50 dioptres!). Where it is difficult to see, they can

and reeds on trees, and where there are no trees, also

also do quite well. They work as a team then. When they

on rock shelves and stones, such as the Socotra cormo-

dive in a flock, there is not a single ‘dive-master’ between

rant (Phalacrocorax nigrogularis) found in the Persian Gulf

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

Photo Angel Tobar

been thoroughly studied, especially when it comes to

Anglers and fishermen cannot forgive cormorants that every bird eats about half a kilo of fish a day (even if these are mostly ruffe and roach). Instead of fighting these birds, Japanese and Chinese fishermen used them for fishing, putting rings on their necks so that they could not swallow any bigger prey.

those living on isolated islands, such as the Kerguelen shag (Phalacrocorax verrucosus), which, as the name suggests, comes from the Kerguelen Islands in the area of Roaring Forties in the Indian Ocean (French Southern and Arctic Territories). In Europe, we have the great cormorant (P. carbo) and European (or common) shag (P. aristotelis) found in several varieties. In those mentioned above, and in most other species of cormorants, the dominant colour is black, often accompanied by smaller or larger patches of white. But there are some exceptions here. The brightest, as far as colours are concerned, is the resident of western South America, a red-legged cormorant (P. gaimardi), whose legs of the colour suggested

and on the east coast of Africa. Well, where do we meet

by the name, a long white spot on each side of the neck

cormorants? In many places, both over the sea and fresh

and naked (devoid of feathers) orange skin of the beak

waters. Virtually most of the coastal zones of the world,

area (so-called mask) make it the most colourful among

up to subarctic zones, are inhabited by various species

black and white and sometimes grey cousins. Speaking

of cormorants. These species, grouped in two types, are

of colours, adult cormorants can show off their beautiful

currently 31 (including one extinct), but there are also

eyes. Their pupils can be emerald green or ultramarine

many subspecies distinguished – and the specialists in

(if the dear reader does not distinguish between such

bird taxonomy still have some work to be done in this

colours, I'll help you saying these are different shades

group of birds. The more as some species have not yet

of green and blue).

planet earth

Little pied cormorant, New Zeland

In Poland, there is currently no problem meeting a cormorant. Although for decades it was a rare bird (killed because of its effectiveness in fishing), thanks to protective regulations its populations are recovering. Although they are still not welcomed in fishponds and in places where a man tries to get fish for their own needs, the naturalists try to show ways of the least disturbing coexistence possible between Homo sapiens and Phalacrocorax carbo. Anglers and fishermen cannot forgive cormorants that every bird eats about half a kilo of fish a day (even if these are mostly ruffe and roach). Instead of fighting these birds, Japanese and Chinese fishermen used them for fishing, putting rings on their necks so that they could not swallow any bigger prey. Going back to the opportunity to admire the cormorants, even those who avoid visiting non-urbanized areas have a chance to observe these interesting birds. For some time, without any effort, you can observe cormorants on the Vistula River in Warsaw, as well as on Lake Malta and the Sołacki Park in Poznan and in a number of other places. I hope all divers will see the cormorants underwater one day, and for those who do not necessarily want to get wet, I recommend available films made by the former ones.

Great cormorant, Germany perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

planet earth

Shore crab Text agata turowicz Photo clement blin

he waters of the Baltic Sea hide many unusual

Like other species of crabs, it is very agile, but it can-

and interesting creatures. One of them are crabs.

not swim. It can move forward, backward or sideways,

Currently, the Baltic Sea is inhabited by three spe-

cleverly walking on the bottom using its eight legs and

cies: the largest Chinese mitten crab (Eriocheir sin-

a pair of claws. Like many other crabs, one of its claws

ensis), the tiny dwarf crab (Rhithropanopeus harrisii)

is much larger than the other. This is a characteristic

and the shore crab, also called the green shore crab

feature of males, whose overgrown claws play a very

(Carcinus maenas).

important role during courtship in the mating season.

The latter is medium size (its armor reaches up to

To hide from curious fish, it often buries in the sand,

several centimetres) and lives in shallow waters among

leaving only eyes protruding above the surface, closely

stones, sand or underwater plants. Its colour varies

watching the world around.

greatly, from green to brown through grey or red. In ad-

This species has a wide range of tolerance for salinity

dition to genetic conditions, differences in colouration

(from 5 PSU to 35 PSU) and temperature, thanks to which

are largely due to local environmental factors. Individ-

it can survive both in warm waters and in extremely cold

uals which delay the so-called molting, meaning they

climates under ice. This adaptation makes it possible

change their armour later than usual, become more of-

for crab to successfully colonize new reservoirs and has

ten red than green. Interestingly, it has been proven that

been recognized by scientists as one of the 100 most

individuals with scarlet coloration are stronger and more

invasive species in the world.

aggressive, but unfortunately they have less tolerance

Divers in the Baltic Sea can easily meet the crab in the

to sudden changes in salinity or oxygenation than their

shallow waters of the Gulf of Gdańsk or in the estuary

emerald brothers. Juveniles have more pronounced col-

areas of rivers.

ouration, which loses their intense saturation with age.

events

After and before the Festival of Power Text and photos jakub cieślak

browse photos from previous edi-

the formula. The basic change was to

and stimulated the participants to talk and

tions and I still can't believe that the

concern the meeting time. We were to

share their thoughts. This is what deter-

sixth edition of NFM has just ended.

meet in an even warmer month, maybe

mines the strength of the event for me

Six years in a row, with quite positive

in September or October. Go outside, set

– meetings between divers. These conver-

growing effect, we are able to gather

up tents and meet with a larger group.

sations in front of the gathered audience

a bunch of people in the charming na-

So that "foamers" can also join the party.

and those behind the scenes. I hope that

ture of the environment surrounding

However, a series of events forced a re-

the event will take place on the set track

the center "Nemo in Kulka" on Lake

turn to the original date in December. We

and its subsequent editions will bring an-

Łęsk. The resort has its limited capaci-

did not fail to try to open the formula for

other positive emotion. I hope to meet in

ty, the standard of rooms and cottages

"unplugged" equipment and the native

2020, in September.

is rather basic, but this place attracts us

manufacturer of characteristic orange

every year. We like to come back here for

suits appeared with its new range of ex-

the silence of the nature that surrounds

treme undersuits, which caused quite

us, for the lack of coverage of our phones,

a lot of interest.

for the atmosphere of the place and hos-

The 2019 edition brought positive emo-

pitality, and even caring of the hosts. We

tions – there was no shortage of volunteers

feel at home here. Nothing but throw off

again, the center was filled with guests,

your shoes and aim your socks at the fire-

and the attendance was high. This year,

place holding a cup of aromatic mulled

we "limited" to Kamil Jakuza Jaczyński's

wine and a book in the other. Ideal con-

speech on promoting ecology and organ-

ditions for meeting divers.

ization of diving ecological events, then

The Diving Power Festival is a meeting

we conducted two discussion panels with

between divers. Of course, the basis of

Marcin Bramson. We discussed diving

the event program is equipment testing.

on nitrox in Poland and the future of re-

So we have to test heating systems, their

briders and savings (sCCR) in recreational

power supply, we also have diving flash-

diving. All these meetings filled the room

lights – the "more serious" – split and simpler ones. Added to this there are dive computers and other electronics or accessories that protect this electronics. Everything under the sign of electricity – power. Everything hidden under the festival's slogan should be powered up by definition. Not this time, however. On the occasion of the 2018 edition, we already started talks about expanding

perfectdiver No. 1(7)/2020

r oo k i e ' s e y e

ABC: mask, snorkel, fins How to select and safely use snorkeling gear Text margita Ślizowska

"A" for MASK. Thanks to the mask, we

snorkelling in a thin neoprene hood. The

might observe what is happening under

hood holds your hair, protects your head

water, so its perfect fit is important. How to

from the sun, and the sinuses and ears from

achieve it? We should brush the hair back

chill and wind.

and apply a silicone seal to our face. We do

To prevent the mask from evaporating

not put on the strap at that point! Now we

just before entering the water, spit on dry

suck the air in through our nose so that the

lenses, rub the saliva with your fingers, and

mask clings to our face. If we shake our head

then rinse it. You can use a special fluid, but

and the mask holds well – we put a strap on

I recommend saliva, because after all it's al-

the back of our head. Don't do up the strap

ways at hand ;-) I remind SCUBA divers that

too tightly! It can cause the mask to leak or

for scuba diving we always use a mask with

squeeze your face. If the strap is loose and

tempered glass! For snorkelling, it can be

you still feel too much pressure in the water

plastic, although plastic scratches easily...

– we should lightly blow the air with our nose

Due to the quality of vision underwater and

into the mask. It should help.

for aesthetic reasons, I recommend masks

The new mask should be degreased. You

with black silicone. Note! It is better not to re-

can soak it in lukewarm water with dish-

move the mask being still in water. And if we

washing liquid or in coke and leave it for

really have to – let's hold it around our neck,

a few hours. Before snorkelling, we should

not on the forehead or in hand, because in

tie up long hair that may limit visibility, cause

case of an emergency – we will always find

leakage or mask dislocation. I recommend

it around our neck easily 

Photos wiktor zdrojewski