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12 POA vtoR T MesR A khI T i 25 PA GE 2 5 26 D‘ Z O on C eU N ME. 2 ‘ N T A R Y 46 E l en e K vern adze 48 2“ 4 , 00 4 - Page n ot f oun d! “ A L 52 C“ 1 O 1 0 N 2 C “ E Q PTetaU Gvi n epadze “ O pen Y our E ye s, S i l en ce ”
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62 MA R T U S H K A F R O ME A S T V 90 S“ Y H ouA K getH A acI cuV A Z s O tomed to w ar” ME T R E D A T I A S H V I L I 116 D“ H E otel B akh tri on i “ 142 FN A anS cyH I O W N ol an d 154 TB RC AN V ( E B L usca n do C ada N och e) E PO R T A GE 178 PHA ugusO T t O - S R eptemb er “I A MN O T S C A R E D
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COVER Guram Muradov
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EDITOR IN CHIEF Guram Muradov EDITOR L ash a K avtaradze CREATIVE DIRECTOR Q eta Gvi n epadze PHOTO EDITOR E an a K orb eza sh vi l i CONTRIBUTORS N ata A val i an i T ako Pol adash vi l i PHOTO REPORTAGE George B aza ev George Gogua V akh o K hetaguri E an a K orb eza sh vi l i Guram Muradov ENGLISH TRANSLATION AND EDITING E l en e K vern adze I rakl i Mal an i a GUESTS A vto Mesk hi S hakh A i vazo v E l en e K vern adze Martush ka F romeast N an cy W ol an d D emetre D ati as hvi l i
www.photoessay.ge to@photoessay.ge www.facebook.com/photoessaymag www.instagram.com/photoessaymagazine www.twitter.com/PhotoessayMag Š PHOTOESSAY Georgian Online Magazine, 2014 7
V IO L E N C E - A H A B IT A N D A T R A D IT IO N
F or a l on g ti me vi ol en ce has b eco me al most the most ef f ect i ve mean s of co mmun i ca ti on . H ow ever, i t w as al w ays l i ke thi s. W e use vi ol en ce w hi l e deal i n g w i th our l ef t- han ded ch i l dren an d f orce them to w ri te w i th thei r ri ght han d, w hi l e w e pun i sh ch i l dren f or b ad marks at sch ool . Man poi n t the w ay tow ard the ki tch en to thei r w i ves, so that they b eco me vi ct i ms of vi ol en ce w i thout real i zi n g i t. B ul l yi n g i s the most popul ar aci ti vi ty i n sch ool s. I am al w ays remi n ded of an i n ci den t that happen ed to my n i ece i n sch ool . T each er pul l ed her hai r, b eca use sh e di dn ’ t do her homew ork. Paren ts had n atural react i on , w hen they w en t to sch ool an d repri man ded the teach er. I n resp on se paren ts of her cl assm ates co mpl ai n ed ab out the f act that w e sa i d an yt hi n g an d sa i d that the teach er has di ab etes, s o they n ever sa y an yt hi n g ab out her w hen si mi l ar ca se s happen . Moreover, they st arted tal ki n g to my n i ece i n an aggressi ve w ay an d b l ami n g her f or w hat happen ed. Prob ab l y thi s i s the “ easi est ” exa mpl e of the vi ol en ce that has b eco me a f orm of o c mmun i ca ti on . F or so meon e to b eat a ch i l d i s a f orm of di sci pl i n e, “ they l ove me an d that i s w hy they . , , di dn ’ t w an t to st udy or hear an yt hi n g ab out sch ool . V i ol en ce i s a tradi ti on . A co rdi n g to Georgi an tradi ti on s, a w oman i s a house w i f e, an i n ts rumen t to del i ver b ab i es an d as w e al l rece n tl y l earn ed sh e a c n co mb i n e her rol e as musi a c l i n st rumen t. V i ol en ce i s a hab i t. O f co urse , on e or tw o peopl e ca n ’ t ch an ge the w orl d f or the b etter. I n order to do thi s w e have to ref use these se n se l ess tradi ti on s, w hi ch are harmi n g peopl e aroun d us. D o n ot ch oose a posi ti on of ost ri ch , f eel f ree to tal k ab out the vi ol en ce , that un f ortun atel y w e have turn ed i n to a tradi ti on an d a hab i t. Guram Muradov 8
EDITOR’S LETTER
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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O D E T O
V IO L E N C E
“ I n D edopl i st ska ro a 1 4 ye ar ol d gi rl w as raped” - I j ust read thi s headl i n e a f ew mi n utes pri or to w ri ti n g thi s co l umn . I real l y w an ted to i n troduce the mai n topi c of “ Photoessa y’ s” n ew i su e i n a di f f eren t w ay . I w an ted to rememb er w aves of vi ol en ce i n our so ci ety w hi ch co me l aye r b y l aye r, w omen w i th cu t , , , i ron ed el derl y peopl e, su i ci dal acci den ts i n Metro, dead mi n e w orke rs. H ow ever w e don ’ t n eed to rememb er an yt hi n g. Ju st l og i n to “ F ace b ook” or turn on T V an d yo u’ l l se e a l i ve st ream of horror. W hen “ Photoessa y” team met to pl an the n ew i su e, w e agreed that thi s i su e sh oul d b e rel axi n g, so methi n g that w i l l gi ve a pl easu re to the readers. S oon w e real i ze d that i t w oul d b e more l i ke se l f - dece pti on than taki n g ca re of readers. S ome st i l l thi n k that i f yo u don ’ t tal k ab out vi ol en ce i t’ l l di sa pear, b ut to my mi n d, the b i ggest of f en ders are those w ho w an ts us to b e si l en t. T hen w e tri ed to di sg ui se the topi c. B ut agai n an d agai n the ca pti vi ty of the ci rcu mst an ce s made us deci de, that vi ol en ce sh oul d b e the mai n theme of thi s i su e of the magazi n e. N ake d vi ol en ce , w i thout an y make up, w i thout an y se n ti men t or pose . I s w ar more than
vi ol en ce ? F or vari ous rea, b ack to co mmon peopl e, w hi l e deci si on - mak ers don ’ t even l eave thei r ow n co mf ort zo n es. Photographer S hakh F i red w i l l sh ow us the most b rutal f orms of vi ol en ce , the real f ace of
w ar an d he’ l l tel l us how to the w ar.
he got accu
st omed
Q eta Gvi n epadze w i th her co n ce ptual photography w i l l exp ose the magn i tude, sh apes an d i co n s of vi ol en e c permeati n g our every day l i f e. S ometi mes the ab use r has n o n ame an d has n o f ace . B ut damages ca use d b y thei r act i on s determi n e thousa n ds of peopl e’ s l i ves an d j ust rui n s them. D emetre D ati ash vi l i ’ s photo f ate of peopl e w ho su f f ered ti mes of w ar, an d then b eca me vi ct i ms of the st ate an d so ci ety . Y ou’ l l se e the en vi ron men t, i n w hi ch l i vi n g i s a f orm of vi ol en ce . E an a K orb eza sh vi l i w i l l exp os e more or l ess un n oti ce d f orms of vi ol en ce an d thei r vi ct i ms. T hey aren ’ t human s an d they ca n ’ t w ri te arti cl es or post thei r l i vi n g co n di ti on s on F ace b ook. Y ou’ l l meet a perso n w ho b y hi s ow n f un ds i s tryi n g to amel i orate st ray dog l i f e. N egati ve i s the mai n co n tri b utor to the modern medi a. B ut perhaps b eca use , real i ty i s mai n l y n egati ve. N everthel ess, “ Photoessa y” w i l l try to sh ow other i n terest i n g peopl e i n thi s i su e an d i t w on ’ t b e j ust co n ce n trated ab out vi ol en ce . Meet arti st A vto Meskh i , D esi gn er Q ri st i B otko vel i ( N an cy W ol an d) . Q eta Gvi n epadze w i l l try to b ri n g the l ast su mmer memori es b ack, turn D even dra B an hart’ s musi c an d vi rtual l y travel to B arc el on a. L ash a Q avtaradze 11
PORTRAIT
AVTO MESKHI A rti st
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T H E MO U N T A I N W A S T H E MO U N T A I N A N D T H E R E W A S N O T H I N G PA I N T E D U N D E R N E A T H
I w as n ’ t ab l e to draw as peopl e l i k ed i t. I w as ex pl ai n i n g that the moun tai n w as j us t moun tai n an d i t w as mean t that there w as n othi n g pai n ted un dern eath. I got real l y i n teres ted an d .
Photographer: E an a K orb ez as hvi l i ; C on tri b utor: N ata A val i an i
I s tarted draw i n g s i n c e c hi l dhood. L i k e al l c hi l dren , I pai n ted as w el l . T hey had me draw w i th a b l ac k pen c i l , then they b rought me a w hi te on e, to c hec k i f I real l y had tal en t. I real l y . , , draw n tow ards pai n ti n g.
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N ei ther of my paren t w ere w ork i n g at the rai l road c ompan y , b ut my f ri en d’ s mom w as w ork i n g there an d hel ped me to get en rol l ed an d s tart l earn i n g pai n ti n g. E very thi n g w as n ew f or me- b oards an d other materi al s . T hey made a s ti l l - l i f e s tan d, w e had to draw a l eaf . I drew a l eaf , the teac her w as very i mpres s ed an d s urpri s ed, s he w as as k i n g me i f I k n ew how to draw . T hen s he put a s c ul pture i n f ron t of us . I w as s ti l l s urpri s ed. T hey ex pl ai n ed the w hol e proc es s of mak i n g s c ul ptures an d s ai d that there are man y more l i k e thi s . 14
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T hen my teac her tol d me w here to go i f I w an ted to b ec ome an arti s t. S he tol d me that I had to tak e s ome ex ams , b ut s he b el i eved that I w oul d b e ab l e to get i n there, b ec aus e of my . . w as real l y happy an d even c ame w i th me to the s c hool to tal k to the teac her. I n the s ummer I w en t there to tak e the ex ams , I drew s ti l l l i f e an d got a real l y good mark . F rom S eptemb er . . , . there every thi n g w as more s eri ous . I tri ed tw i c e to get i n to A c ademy of art, b ut I w as n ’ t ab l e to do s o. 16
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I s tarted w ork i n g at home. Pai n ti n g. I had n i n e s ol o ex hi b i ti on s at “ Meran i ” , A rt w ork ers hous e, N ati on al Gal l ery of A rt. I had ex hi b i ti on s w i th A rc hi l D arc hi a an d w i th B ai a as w el l . H ai n er B oer b ought my l as t w ork . T he res t of the pi c tures are at Mamuk a T s ets k hl adz e’ s home. My hous e w as at N i n os hvi l i s treet, b ut I s ol d i t, b ec aus e I di dn ’ t have an y mon ey . I t’ s . 18
W hen I s tarted draw i n g, E l guj a Gogadz e tol d me to dres s n i c el y , b ec aus e he w as tak i n g me to meet a f amous arti s t. I w as 1 4 y ears ol d. I got dres s ed an d f ol l ow ed hi m. W hen w e got there, a man w i th b l ac k hai r open ed the door. H e l ook ed real l y s eri ous . H e took us i n to a s mal l room. E l guj a i n troduc ed me to hi s f ri en d A vto. H e of f ered us s ome dri n k s . O n that day me an d A vto V araz i had dri n k s together.
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I n the even i n g E l guj a l ef t, b ut I s tay ed. I k n ew s ome thi n gs ab out Pi c as s o an d as k ed i f he had an y b ook s ab out hi m. H e had man y i n teres ti n g b ook s ab out- Pi c as s o, C ez an n e, V an Gogh. D uri n g that ti me n ob ody had b ook s . H e promi s ed to i n troduc e me to a pers on s el l i n g thes e b ook s . H e as k ed me i f I dri n k c of f ee, I ref us ed an d he w en t to mak e c of f ee f or hi ms el f . H e gave me a huge b ook ab out Pi c as s o, w hi c h I put on my k n ees an d s tarted l ook i n g at i t. A vtos pai n ti n gs w ere han gi n g on the w al l . O n e w as a portrai t of hi s w i f e, I thought thi s pai n ti n g w as very good. H e l aughed an d s ai d that he al s o l i k ed thi s pai n ti n g. 22
H e w as happy that I w as goi n g to the tec hn i c al un i vers i ty . H e as k ed me n ot to mi s s c l as s an d w as te my ti me. H e of f ered me to vi s i t hi m w hen I w an ted i t, b ut n ot duri n g the c l as s ti me. I w as vi s i ti n g hi m very of ten , w e b ec ame c l os e f ri en ds . I w as tak i n g my pai n ti n gs to hi m. O n c e he put my pai n ti n g on hi s eas el an d s ai d i t w as an hon or f or me. H e thought that thi s pai n ti n g w as w orth a l ot of mon ey , b ut there w as n ob ody to gi ve real pri c e, s o he of f ered to s el l i t f or a c heap pri c e, s o I w oul d get n i c e c l othes an d s ome vodk a f or b oth of us to get drun k . 23
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MIKHEIL ABRAMYAN
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DOCUMENTARY
ZONE N.2 Photographer E an a K orb eza h s vi l i C on tri b utor N ata A val i an i
I n 2 0 0 4 T amaz E l i z b aras hvi l i open ed a dog s hel ter. W i thout an y f un di n g he s ti l l c overs al l the ex pen s es an d k eeps the an i mal s i n the s hel ter.
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“ Peopl e w i l l i n g to adopt an an i mal ca n ch oose them on l i n e, af ter regi st rati on they have an . . 36
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“ T he sh el ter has i t’ s ow n cl i n i c, w here al l the n ecce sa ry medi ca l proce dures are perf ormed. W e have three veteri n ari an s, w e have vacci n es an d perf orm su rgeri es. W e take ca re of 5 0 - 6 0 an i mal s per day i n the cl i n i c. ” 41
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“ W e w an t to hel p st ray dogs, gi ve them sh el ter. T oday i n the sh el ter w e have 6 0 puppi es, dogs, 8 b ears an d on e j acka l . � 44
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ELENE KVERNADZE
Pol i ti c al sci 46
en ti st , psych
ol ogi st .
Photographer: Guram Muradov
GUEST
“ O PE N Y O U R
E Y E S , L IS T E N , B R E A K T H E S IL E N C E ”
A co rdi n g to a su rveys co n duct ed i n Georgi a, i t has b een est ab l i sh ed that the most val ued thi n g f or our so ci ety i s f ami l y . T hi s i s i ron i c w hen yo u co n si der the f act that D omest i c vi ol en ce i s on e of the most w i del y sp read an d un derreported prob l ems i n the co un try…W hat does f ami l y mean to us? C an w e hon est l y ca l l an en vi ron men t w here i n di vi dual s are un sa f e, f eel vi ol ated, an d exp eri en ce syt emati c ab use , a pl ace f or f ami l y? D omest i c vi ol en ce happen s everyw here i n the w orl d. I t i s f oun d i n al l cu l tures, an d amon gst every so ci al cl ass. A vi ct i m ca n b e ab use d physi ca l l y , se xu al l y , psych ol ogi ca l l y , eco n omi ca l l y , or an y co mb i n ati on of ab usi ve b ehavi or w here an un sa f e home en vi ron men t i s cr eated. D omest i c vi ol en ce ca n n ot b e attri b uted to poverty , st ress, drug ab use , or a l ack of educa ti on . I n st ead, the reaso n b ehi n d i t i s al w ays the sa me: O n e memb er of the f ami l y se eks to have pow er an d co n trol over an other. A s l on g as thi s desi re exi st s,
how to reco gn i ze si gn s that i t’ s taki n g pl ace . I t al so se eks to make cl ear how domest i c vi ol en ce i s ca use d, the mul ti pl e f orms i t ca n take , an d the l ast i n g co n se q uen ce s i t ca n have f or vi ct i ms. T hi s co mpl ex an d w i desp read prob l em ca n n ot b e reso l ved i n an y on e w ay . L aw s n eed b e i n pl ace that protect the vi c ti m an d pun i sh the ab use r. T hese l aw s have to b e en f orce d ef f ect i vel y . A deq uate s hel ters must b e avai l ab l e w here vi ct i ms ca n rece i ve n ot on l y physi ca l , psych ol ogi ca l rehab i l i tati on , b ut al so j udi ci al su pport an d voca ti on al trai n i n gs to hel p them co n ti n ue thei r l i ves i n depen den t of thei r ab use rs. Most i mportan tl y of al l , our so ci ety n eeds to b e act i ve i n reso l vi n g thi s prob l em. W e n eed to ch an ge the perce pti on that domest i c vi ol en ce i s merel y a f ami l y matter. W e n eed to st op turn i n g our heads an d i gn ori n g thi s w i desp read i su e.
D omest i c vi ol en ce i s so co mmon , that l i teral l y each of yo u kn ow s a vi ct i m. S ome of us are to harm thei r vi ct i m. aw are of thi s f act b ut si mpl y c hoose to i gn ore T hese typ es of domest i c b ehavi ors are es i t, w hi l e others remai n ob l i vi ous b eca use peci al l y en han ce d an d/ or vi si b l e i n tradi ti on al l y cl ose d, patri arch al so ci eti es l i ke Georgi a. of the on goi n g tab oo of ab use i n the home. Perhaps the most tragi c thi n g ab out domest i c O urs i s an en vi ron men t that mai n tai n s the vi ol en ce i s that those su f f eri n g of ten l ack the n oti on that w i ves are i n f eri or to thei r hus b an ds, an d hen ce a man has the ri ght to treat st ren gth or ab i l i ty to sp eak up. T hey w on ’ t admi t to b ei n g vi ct i ms, b eca use they are a ( hi s) w oman the w ay that he w an ts. W i ves trapped- hel pl ess i n the f ace of ab use . ( or husb an ds i n so me ca se s) are exp ect ed f ami l i es, an d al l too of ten those thi n gs en d up b ei n g humi l i ati on an d ab use . I t en han ce s the b el i ef that f ami l y i s more i mportan t than the i n di vi dual , as w el l as hi s/ her ri ghts an d happi n ess; an d most i mportan tl y , i t perpetuates the n oti on that w hat happen s i n a f ami l y sh oul d st ay i n a f ami l y . “ O pen Y our E ye s, L i st en , B reak the S i l en ce ” i s a movemen t to rai se aw aren ess ab out domest i c vi ol en ce i n our so ci ety . T he movemen t w orks to i n f orm the pub l i c on w hat domest i c vi ol en ce i s, w here i t happen s, an d
S i mpl y , i t i s i mperati ve that w e st art w ork to so l ve the w i desp read prob l em of domest i c vi ol en ce i n our co un try , an d the w orl d. W e must overco me our poi so n ed perce pti on s of the f ami l y i f w e w i sh to sa ve i t. W e, as a so ci ety have a resp on si b i l i ty an d duty to open our eye s, l i st en , an d b reak the si l en ce . E l en e K vern adze U n i ted N ati on s A s s oc i ati on of Georgi a F oun der of the movemen t “ O pen Y our E y es , L i s ten , B reak the S i l en c e”
https: / / w w w . f ace b ook. co m/ O j akh uri D za l adob a
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“TEENS- 404. WE EXIST!” s i gn “ 4 0 4 - page n ot avai l ab l e” . S oc i ety has the s ame atti tude tow ards the gay c ommun i ty , as i f they do n ot ex i s t, as i f l es b i an , gay , b i s ex ual an d tran s gen der peopl e are b rought f rom Mars . T he truth i s that, f or every tw en ty f ami l i es i n R us s i a there i s on e L GB T c hi l d grow i n g up- ex ac tl y that i n vi s i b l e c hi l d. H omophob i c en vi ron men t an d hate tow ards them mak es l i f e a l i vi n g hel l , i t des troy s n ot on l y thei r mi n d, b ut al s o tak es aw ay thei r l i ves . H omos ex ual adul ts are the mos t vul n erab l e vi c ti ms of a homophob i c s oc i ety . Peopl e s top hati n g! H ear thei r voi c es ! T hey are y our c hi l dren . W ho , l etter?
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“ . . . Y ou kn ow w hat guys? yo u radi ca l l y ch an ged the l i ves of other teen s. T hose w ho are readi n g yo ur st ori es, hear yo ur voi ce s. Y ou guys are i n cr edi b l y st ron g. Y ou ch oose to st an d up an d deal w i th these i su es, w hi l e adul ts are ch oosi n g to st ay si l en t. A n d I hope that w hen yo u cr oss the b arri er, w hi ch de j ure di vi des “ 4 0 4 adol esce n ts” an d adul ts, yo u guys w i l l remai n as st ron g an d sm art as yo u are ri ght n ow . A n d so on er or l ater, yo u’ l l b e ab l e to ch an ge thi s l i f e . 0 . i st s! Y ou guys exi st ! ” L i ve. L ove. Ju st b e. ” L en a K l i mova
www.facebook.com/children.404 * Photographs are pub l i s hed w i th the c on s en t of the admi n i s trati on page.
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S IN C E 2 0 0 7 U PT O
2 0 1 4 , T H E R E W E R E 1 1 0 2 C A S E S O F D O ME S T I C
V IO L E N C E IN
GE O R GI A .
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GUEST
MARTUSHKA FROMEAST PH O T O GR A PH E R
I A MN O T S C A R E D
O F T H E N I GH T
‘ I n the mi ds t of the s un ray s , a c os tumed b ompo I am n ot. I n the mi ds t of the moon ray s , I have dres s ed. W hen al l b reathi n g, movi n g b ei n gs s l eep, w hen the s un s l eeps , I dres s as a b ompo. C ome tak e my b ompo’ s b ody . C ome tak e a gol den hors e. C ome tak e a s i l ver . . . I A MN O T S C A R E D
O F T H E N I GH T pres en ts s haman i s ti c ri tual s f rom N epal . S y af rub es i i s
a vi l l age s i tuated j us t 1 3 k i l ometers f rom the C hi n es e b order, on a s tart of the popul ar trek k i n g routes to Gos ai k un da an d L an tan g. I t i s an area pac k ed w i th c ul ture, w hi c h may n ot b e i mmedi atel y vi s i b l e to pas s ers - b y . F ortun ate to b e ab l e to ex peri en c e a c l os e rel ati on s hi p w i th the B ompos or J han k ri s ( s haman s ) w ho c on gregate i n S y af rub es i , w hi c h i s c on s i dered a s pi ri tual f oc al poi n t f or the B ompo, Martus hk a F romeas t w as pri vi l eged to w i tn es s vari ous s haman i c ri tual s s pec i al heal i n g proc edures , puj as to remove ob s tac l es an d ex orc i s ms . T hi s doc umen tary w ork hi ghl i ghts the i mportan c e of the B ompo ri tual s i n thei r every day l i f e.
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. , then s tarts to c ry an d tal k , us i n g E n gl i s h, H i n di an d T aman g w ords . H e w as as k ed b y on e of the atten dan t of the an n ual pi l gri mage duri n g J an ai Puri ma hol i day to pray f or the w el l b ei n g of on e of the adul ts . R i s ow an gdi i s on e of the s haman s of S hy b arub es i . H e b el on gs to a tri b e of T i b etan ori gi n c al l ed T aman gs . T he n ame T aman g has tw o mean i n gs : ‘ T A ’ - hors e an d ‘ MA N G’ – w arri ors / c omb atan ts . T aman gs us ed to b e hors e- ri di n g w arri ors an d c ame to 66
N epal f rom n orthern T i b et. R i s ow an gdi w as trai n ed to b ec ome a s haman b y hi s ol der b er. H e has b een prac ti c i n g as a B ompo ( s haman ) f or the l as t 1 3 y ears . B ef ore b ec omi n a s haman he s erved i n the army . R i s ow an gdi ’ s f ather w as al s o a B ompo, b ut he di vorc R i s ow an gdi ’ s mother f or an other w oman . R i s ow an gdi marri ed f or l ove at the age of 1 7 i s a very proud f ather of three s on s .
rothg ed an d
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S haman s go to vi l l ages s i tuated hi gher i n the moun tai n s on b oth s i des of the b order w i th N epal an d C hi n a ( T i b et) . Pow er ( c al l ed s ak hti i n N epal i ) i s the s ourc e of a s haman ’ s f ame.
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i l l n es s . L oc al peopl e f rom S hy ab rub es i s ti l l go to s haman to get hel p. S haman s mak e thei r ow n tradi ti on al A y ervedi c drugs ( a ty pe of al tern ati ve medi c i n e that ori gi n ated i n I n di a) to treat di s eas es an d perf orm ex orc i s ms to hel p the s oul . 71
S haman R i s ow an gdi duri n g a pudj a c eremon y on an 8 4 y ears - ol d w oman w ho, ac c ordi n g , . . 72
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D ri n k i n g al c ohol i s an i mportan t part of al l ri tual s , w hi c h ac t as s oc i al even ts duri n g w hi c h men an d w omen meet. D ri n k i n g i s al s o i mportan t duri n g the an n ual pi l gri mage duri n g J an ai Puri ma hol i day . I t i s us ed as an of f eri n g to the Gods . 74
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, aus pi c i ous f es ti val i n the N epal es e an n ual c al en dar. T he men c ut i ts head w i th an ax e. A f ter , . . . 77
A y oun g s haman i s w as hi n g hi s f ac e w i th hol y w ater i n L an gs hi c a k hark a. S haman R i s ow an gdi , w ho i s more pow erf ul than hi m, s en t hi m a man tra that made hi s n os e b l eed. 7 s haman s f rom 3 di f f eren t c as ts w ere doi n g the an n ual pi l gri mage together. T hey w ere f ol l ow ed b y the l oc al res i den ts w ho w ere s i n gi n g, dan c i n g an d dri n k i n g. T he s haman s w ere c ompet78
i n g to prove thei r pow er. H ow ever, s haman s b el on gi n g to di f f eren t c as ts c an n ot run c eremon i es , dan c e n or pray together. T hei r man tras do n ot go together. Man tras are a s ourc e of S hak ti ( pow er) .
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S haman R i s ow an gdi pi erc es hi s c heek s w i th a n eedl e to prove hi s pow ers . “ D o y ou b el i eve me n ow ? I c an l i c k red hot i ron , I c an c han ge a pi ec e of w ood i n to c ob ra� , he c l ai ms . H e al s o s ay s that s ometi mes , duri n g tran c e, s pi ri ts en ter hi s b ody . 80
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A c c ordi n g to l oc al b el i ef s , L an gtan g i s a “ hi dden val l ey � , w here Guru R i n poc he us ed to . .
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R i s ow an gdi has three s on s to w hom he teac hes s haman i s m.
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ფოტო: ქაბული, ავღანეთი 2013. ფოტოგრაფი: გიორგი გოგუა.
სტუმარი
S H A I V A A Z OK V H PH O T O GR A PH E R S hah A i vaz ov w as b orn c l as s es at s c hool N 5 2 . S 1 0 th grade he w as tak i n w en t to the army . I n 1 9 7 he s tarted to s tudy j ourn l ow ed w i th other f amous q i n pormi ” an d “ Pravda” . 90
i n T b i l i s i . A s earl y as f rom the 7 th grade he s tarted to photograph oon teac her took hi m to Y uri L uk as hvi l i ar Pi on eer’ s Pal ac e. U n ti l l g c l as s es at Pi on eer’ s pal ac e, b ut af ter graduati n g hi gh s c hool , he 6 he s tarted w ork i n g i n a l ab oratory at Pi on eer’ s Pal ac e, af ter a y ear al i s m. H e al s o w ork ed at the n ew s paper “ N ergi ” . “ N ergi ” w as f ol n ew s papers at thi s ti me as “ Y oun g L en i n el i ” , “ S avet Gurj i s tan ” , “ S aI n 1 9 8 8 - 8 9 he w ork ed i n B ak u.
Y O U
GE T A C C U S T O ME D T O
I n 1 9 9 0 “ B l ac k j an uary ” tragedy happen ed i n A z erb ai j an , S ovi et tan k s attac k ed un armed peopl e i n B ak u. “ O n Ja n uary 2 1 st I w as al ready i n B aku . A t thi s ti me “ S aq i n pormi ” had agreemen t w i th “ A so ci ated Press” an d “ R euter” . I w en t to B aku , took pi ct ures of everyt hi n g an d so on I got a ca l l f rom “ A so ci ated Press” an d they of f ered me a j ob i n Mosco w . ” - reca l l s photographer, “ - they of f ered me co operati on w i thi n the C auca su s, b eca use they l i ke d my pi c tures. T hey al so of f ered me al l ki n ds of eq ui pmen t. S oon en ough demon st rati on s b egan . ” “ I di dn ’ t b eco me a w ar j ourn al i st b eca use I w an ted i t. T he w ar st arted i n K arab akh , then i n S outh O se ti a, A b kh azi a, T aj i ki st an . I w as i n C hech n ya f or 9 mon ths. A f ter 3 mon ths I w en t to T b i l i si - Mosco w - T aj i ki st an . T hen I got use d to the w ar- yo u ca n act ual l y get accu s tomed to the w ar. Peopl e aske d me am I n ot af rai d? B ef ore yo u get there, yo u are af rai d . B ut w hen yo u reach the pl ace , yo u ca n ’ t f eel w here yo u are. I t’ s l i ke thi s every ti me. ” “ W hen yo u’ re a Jo urn al i st , yo u have to sh ow b oth si des. Jo urn al i st s of ten f ai l to take i n to acco un t, an d of ten on l y sh ow on e si de of the st ory . W ar i s death, w hen I w as taki n g pi c tures i n K arab akh , I di dn ’ t kn ow w hat they w ere goi n g to do. W hen w e en tered the pl ace w here A rmen i an s l i ved, I w as ab l e to take pi c tures of b oth si des. T here w as n othi n g w ron g w i th i t, b ut f or on e mon th I w asn ’ t al l ow ed i n A ze rb ai j an terri tori es. B ut w hen yo u are ob j ect i ve yo u ca n en ter an y pl ace w i thout an y prob l em. ” “ W hen yo u go to photograph a w ar, the b i gi l y w i thout kn ow i n g w hether or n ot yo u’ l l return . T he Presi den t vi si ted a sm al l vi l l age i n
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C hech n ya ca l l ed V i di on a. E veryb ody kn ew me there, b eca use I al ready l i ved here f or se veral mon ths. O n e C hech en ca me to me an d sa i d, i f yo u w an t to go to V i di on a w e are l eavi n g ton i ght. I agreed an d I w en t there w i th se veral other j ourn al i st s. W e s taye d there f or . . on e thought that w e w ere l ost . D uri n g that ti me I had a huge b eard an d w hen my w i f e open ed the door, sh e di dn ’ t reco gn i ze me an d f ai n ted. T hey tol d my f ami l y memb ers, that w e w ere dead. B ut there i sn ’ t much yo u ca n do, the w ar i sn ’ t a w eddi n g. I f w e ref use to go there, so meb ody has to go an d take pi ct ures of everyt hi n g. ” “ I t w oul d b e b etter i f w ar di dn ’ t exi st . N ow I ’ m l ooki n g at arch i ves an d real i ze that w ar i s death. D eath on the b oth si des. I f 1 0 peopl e di e on on e si de, there’ s tw o dyi n g on the se co n d si de, b ut a perso n w ho hasn ’ t b een there w on ’ t un derst an d thi s. W ar i s pol i ti cs. C ommon peopl e go to w ar, pol i ti ci an ’ s so n s don ’ go to w ar. I w i l l n ever f orget the w ords of A l i ev. D uri n g the K arab kh w ar, opposi ti on l aw make rs cr i ti ci ze d the deci si on to st op the w ar. T hen he aske d then to rai se a han d i f thei r so n or rel ati ve w as i n the w ar. N o on e rai se d a han d. T hen he sa i d that n o on e act ual l y kn ew the real i ty of w ar. I f duri n g the w ar 1 0 0 peopl e di ed a day , n ow i t’ s j ust three peopl e. W hi ch i s b etter? ” I t has b een 2 2 ye ars is n ce S hah A i vazo v i s “ A so ci ated Press’ s” photographer. S hah i s co mpan y f or 1 6 0 ye ars. “ I t’ s n ot ab out w ho I am or w hat I am, I ’ m i n Georgi a. F or a l on g ti me I w as pl an n i n g to go to A ze rb ai j an . B ut I ’ m n ot movi n g an yw here. A l l my roots are here. N or do I w an t an yt hi n g. I ’ m f eel i n g great here, j ust b y myse l f . ” 91
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GEORGIA
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ფოტო: გურა
ურა ოვი
NEWBIE
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DEMETRE DATIASHVILI PH O T O GR A PH E R
HOTEL “BAKHTRIONI“ H otel “ B ak htri on i ” i s l oc ated i n T b i l i s i . T he hotel has l os t ol d f eatures , s urroun di n gs are ru22
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L i f e i s getti n g real l y hard on them. T he rooms are 1 2 s q uare meters w i th b athroom, b edroom an d a k i tc hen . B ak htri on i l os t i ts f un c ti on an d b ec ame a hous ehol d res i den c e pl ac e. T ran s port rarel y gets there an d popul ati on i s more than 1 0 0 0 . A l though l i f e i s real l y hard f or them, thes e peopl e s ti l l w ork to mak e s urroun di n g l i vi n g c on di ti on s b etter. ’
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FASHION
NANCY WOLAND C hri st i n a B otko vel i
A rti st , D esi gn er Q ri s ti B otk ovel i i s my real n ame, b ut every b ody k n ow s me as N an c y . I ’ m 2 2 an d I s tudy at . , . , s o I dec i ded to l earn every thi n g j us t b y my s el f .
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ფოტოგრაფი: გურა
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Pai n ti n g T - s hi rts i s my hob b y as w el l as a s ourc e of i n c ome. I n the f uture I pl an to open my ow n s hop an d have my ow n b ran d of c l othi n g.
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I l ove the n i ght. E very n i ght I se e a dream. I have pai n ted a n i ght, dream, su rreal i sm i n al most al l of my pai n ti n gs. I n f uture I w oul d l ove to get i n to sp ace , an d I hope that i n the n ear f uture, w e ordi n ary mortal s w i l l have the ch an ce to do i t. S tori es b ehi n d my T - sh i rts are most l y b ase d on peace an d happi n ess. Peace that ca n co ver al l ki n ds of vi ol en ce . 145
, they are n ot “ vi ct i ms of f ash i on ” . 146
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TRAVEL
B arce l on a, S pai n Photographer Q eta Gvi n epadze 152
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Tbilisi, abesaZis q. 2 leseliZe (kote afxazis quCa) tel: 032 293 36 51 https://www.facebook.com/Linville.Cafe 175
PHOTO REPORTAGE
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A ct i on “ Puti n K huyl o“ A ugust 2 6 , T b i l i si Photographer Guram Muradov 177
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A ct i on “ Puti n K huyl o“ A ugust 2 6 , T b i l i si Photographer Guram Muradov 179
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“ K A Z A N T I P“ 2 0 - 3 0 A ugust , A n akl i a, Georgi a Photographer Guram Muradov 181
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S eptemb er 2 3 , T b i l i si Photographer George B aza ev 183
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R tvel i S eptemb er. K akh eti , Georgi a Photographer E an a K orb eza sh vi l i 185
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T b i l i si Photo F est i val S eptemb er 3 0 - O ct ob er 5 Photographer V akh o K hetaguri 187
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