year XXV
— the english issue —
www.polselli.it
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The first application for pizza makers can provide the right information to make the perfect dough.
p. 4
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
ADVERTISER INDEX pag. 22, 23
Acquaviva
pag. 29
Cad
pag. 16, 17
Cantile
pag. 45
Coldline
pag. 7
Cuppone Ovens Delloro
pag. 37
Elangrill
pag. 27
Eredi Malaguti - M.a.m
pag. 39
Ferrarelle
pag. 25
Fiera Milano – Host
pag. 60
Fiera di Rimini–Sigep
pag. 78
GAM International
pag. 69
Grandi Molini Italiani
pag. 84
Gulfood
pag. 72
Imperia, la Monferrina
pag. 47
Italmill
pag. 40, 41, 42, 43
Liner – Italia
pag. 73
Lilly Codroipo
pag. 31
Millberg
pag. 49
Molino Agugiaro Molino Caputo Molino Dalla Giovanna Molino Magri
pag. 32, 33 pag. 61 pag. 50, 51 pag. 55
TABLE OF CONTENTS: by Giampiero Rorato
The primacy of food quality
8 TOURISM
by Nives Piva
6 COMMENTARY
IN FOREGROUND
by Giampiero Rorato
14
28
34
— World
— Maturation, fermentation or both?
– April 7,8,9 Parma 2014
by Simona Lauri
Pizza Championship
18 RESTAURANT
— Osteria Francescana
Oem
pag. 79
Prontofresco Greci
pag. 77
Rinaldi Superforni
pag. 67
The Italian gastronomic tradition looks to the future and evolves
San Felici Franco
pag. 65
by Daniela Fusillo
Stefano Ferrara Forni
pag. 59
Sitta
pag. 83
Molino Polselli
World Pizza Championship
pag. 2, 3
pag. 12, 13
by Giampiero Rorato
44
—>
p. 5
INCIPIT —
"It is now known to everyone in the world that Italy is the country with the highest historical, archaeological, artistic and landscape value, with so much tourist potential value, which has absolutely no equal..." continues at pag. 8
52
62 THE BAKERY CORNER
— Let’s write about pizza
— Mini sweet and savory croissants for pizzerias
by Liliana Paparotti
by Giovanna Allegra
70 BAR
— Amaretto liqueur "pro gratia ricevuta" by Gianandrea Rorato
74 COFFEE
66
— My " coffee experience " in Brazil
WINE CORNER
by Eliana Cossio
— Barolo DOCG
Ascheri 2009
56 GOURMET PIZZAS
— Two Gourmet Pizzas recipes offered by the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli
— Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Doc 2010 — Fiano di Avellino DOCG 2011 by Virgilio Pronzati
80 SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI
—>
c p. 6
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
ommentary
P
izza e Pasta Italiana in English continues with its special issue for foreign markets devoted to the agri-food and food related equipment sector, whether large Italian companies producing equipment and food caterers, chefs, pizza makers, artisans and waiters and international operators. And while the magazine is celebrating 25 years of life, we like to remember its presence both on paper and on the net, and it is seen and read in every part of the world. The richness of topics of professional culture that range in all areas relevant to the restaurant world make it so dear and welcome to the reader.
Giampiero Rorato Indeed, we are convinced to be open to the magazine industry issues, always listening to the needs of both companies and restaurateurs, chefs, pizza makers, artisans and waiters. Our firm commitment is then to let the world know the high quality and the value of Italian products, known and appreciated everywhere being often the result of genius and cutting-edge technologies, with particular attention to Italian style, considered, even in this area, the most beautiful in the world.
Pizza e Pasta Italiana once again wants to be a mirror of the world, transmitting the true Italian culture, the great Italian food and the extraordinary industries operating in the Italian and the international food market. These sectors are the real strengths of Italian economy, appreciated all over the world. www.giampierororato.blogspot.com
s
ar
ye PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture issue Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 Year XXV - 2014,January, Nr. 1/bis English Issue EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Giampiero Rorato EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Caterina Orlandi ADVERTISING Manuela Pelosin, Patrizio Carrer PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin EDITING OFFICE 30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 - Fax +39 0421 81007 E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it
GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo and Paola Dus —Mediagraf Lab On the cover: illustration of Tommaso Vidus Rosin Printing office MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd)
(Canadian Pizza Magazine, Canada) Roberto Bresciani (Pizza y Restauration, Spagna), Valeria Vairo (Buongiorno Italia)
Translation edited by P&P language department Editorial and technical committee Giovanna Allegra, Marisa Cammarano, Patrizio Carrer, Elsa Emanuela Cugola, Tony Gemignani (U.S.A.), Sari Innanen (Finlandia), David Mandolin, Gianandrea Rorato, Gianluca Rorato, Evelyne Slomon, Federica Zanata. Pizza e Pasta Italiana International Jim Winship (Pizza & Pasta Association, Inghilterra) Pete La Chapelle (N.A.P.O. Pizza Today, U.S.A.), P.M.Q. Steve Green (U.S.A.)Abbie Jarman (Pizza, U.S.A.) Hidenao Takahashi (Pan World Inc., Giappone), Kazuko Nagamoto (ICT, Giappone), Takeshi Tanaka (Quattro Stagioni, Giappone), Drew McCarthy
ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS
FOR ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana SPAGNA RRR Revista de Restauración Rapida, Pizza y Restauración U.S.A. Pizza Today, Pizza, P.M.Q. Steve Green INGHILTERRA Pizza, Pasta & Italian Food GERMANIA Buongiorno Italia – TEL 0039 (0) 0421.83148 FAX 0039 (0) 0421.81007
p. 8
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
Tourism in fore– ground Giampiero Rorato
tourism
p. 9
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Italy is rich in tourist attractions, but we need to seriously enhance and promote them in the world
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Renzo Iorio, President of Federturismo
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In a recent conference organized in Rome by Federturismo - as reported by "Il Sole 24 ore" August, 27th – it was shown that last year, our country - according to the research center Intesa Sanpaolo - has suffered major negative signs (-5% of arrivals and -6% attendance). And this year – as the daily business magazine writes - Italian tourism related businesses will still have to lick their wounds, it is estimated, in fact, a drop of 7 % in terms of turnover.
Italy is the fifth most visited country in the world with 47.4 million foreign tourists, while the absolute primacy - that was ours until the ‘80s - is held by France with 70 million foreigners. Now, however, with a slowdown of tourist arrivals in recent years, our country is likely to recede even behind England and Germany, which certainly can not rely, as we do, on the richness of cultural heritage.
1. France 2. USA 3. China 4. Spain 5. Italy 6. Turkey 7. UK 8. Germany 9. Malaysia 10. Mexico
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During the meeting, the President of Federturismo Renzo Iorio, inter alia, stated that "the regions now have too much power and lack a national common project on tourism" and for this reason his association has drafted a White Paper on tourism, that analyzes the factors that affect competitiveness and indicates possible solutions in order to boost growth for the sector and all in all for the country with special recipes for each territory: from education to tax offices, from corporate networks to the use of the web and social networks. "One strong tool - adds Iorio - which is used to prod our stakeholders at local level."
p. 10
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
TOURISM
It is now known to everyone in the world that Italy is the country with the highest historical, archaeological, artistic and landscape value, with so much tourist potential, which has absolutely no equal. Yet foreign tourists who arrive in Italy are slightly more than half of those who visit France. In our country, beaches, mountains and cities of art are the main source of foreign tourism. This year beach tourism has seen a growth of foreign (but not Italian) visitors, as well as the most important art cities - Venice, Florence, Rome, Naples, Palermo - were clogged with foreign visitors.
But the "Bel Paese" is not only this (sea, mountains and cities of art). Culture, archeology, art, history, beautiful landscapes can be found in many other parts of Italy. To quote just a few examples, the Park of Delta del Po, one of the most fascinating areas of Italy (www.parcodeltapo. org), the Tuscan Maremma, with its cities built on the turf (Pitigliano , Sorano, etc..), and archaeological treasures bequeathed to us by the Etruscans (www.maremmatoscana.com), the parks and faunistic reserves of Calabria (parks.it/regione.calabria/). In truth, outside of this extraordinary Italian heritage of this huge tourist potential very little is known also because it lacks a unified message that can inform, affect and captivate foreign tourists coming from Western and Eastern Europe, Asia and North America.
It is necessary that those who have the power, beginning with the government and parliament, think again with commitment - after having forgotten for two decades - to promote tourism, making without hesitation a serious policy for tourism. Tourism has a considerable induced employment, and it gives a high contribution to the gross domestic product for the global image that can offer Italy, involving and promoting any other productive sector.
tourism
Ideas for the development of tourism Tourism is also very important for the food industry and, for restaurants, pizzerias, hotels, manufacturers of wine and beer, the agro-food industry sectors employing many hundreds of thousands of people. It already offers the world, with skill and intelligence, the image of the Italian cuisine, one of the most appreciated in the world, and it does not only help to attract a tourist destination of elite in the world which is sharply growing also in large hotels, cultural events, museums, etc... The President of Federturismo is right when stating the need for proper training of personnel involved in the various activities of tourism. State schools are no longer capable of creating professionals to serve at international level, on the other hand people more culturally prepared, with excellent knowledge of languages ( Russian, Chinese, Japanese included) are desperately needed; with an appropriate undergraduate and master's degree in tourism, not to mention a better qualification of the staff (waiters, sommeliers), who operates in hotels, restaurants, pizzerias.
The same high level of professionalism of the staff is now required in all those places where tourists arrive - museums, art galleries, churches, monuments, cellars, etc. It is possible to resort to training projects funded by Europe and then make them with diligent seriousness, to provide the market with high professionalism of the staff, who is already there, but still very low. Recently in Maremma, I met the Association " Maremmans " ( maremmans.blogspot. it ) , committed to raising awareness of the area and its many cultural and tourist initiatives through the network. Here, the network, a means to be used more and in a rational way to convey to the world the values of a territory and give correct information to foreign tourists, to lure in many wonderful areas but little known of our beautiful country. College courses, staff training, strengthening and food, network development, aid to volunteer, all important areas to grow tourism.
Infrastructure are of critical importance, it is not possible that an important tourist country as Italy is still clogged with traffic jams and highways where they proceed to a crawl, a rail network still unsatisfactory, especially in the South; cities with poor directions, and so on. Italy is too nice and it does not deserve its image and its tourism to be left aside, perhaps to catch up for weeks and months for the troubles of some character. The tourism issues deserve more attention and commitment, because, above all, tourism is a source of income that Italy can not possibly continue to overlook. And, very often, no need to wait for help from above, because everyone is called to contribute to improve its professionalism and its scope of work , giving it a quantum leap for tourist accommodation, in a proper relationship with tourists and international standard services .
p. 11
Pizza rd World Championship 23 edition
COMPETITORS
600 competitors from all over the world, 33 nations, 12 pizza categories, 7 tons of pizza dough, 5 quintals of flour, 4 pounds of mozzarella, 3 tons of tomatoes, 9 ovens all working at the same time. Pizza World Championship ...we are waiting for you!
PARMA PALACASSA April 7.8.9 2014
www.pizzaworldchampionship.com
Classic Pizza Pan Pizza Pizza on the Peel Stg Neapolitan Pizza Gluten Free Pizza Pizza for two Pizza Presentation Heinz Beck Trophy "First Courses...in pizzeria" The Largest The Fastest
Single and Team Free Style
Regulations available also on-line*
For more info, please contact info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it or visit our website*: www.campionatomondialedellapizza.it www.pizzaworldchampionship.com
Phone: From abroad: +39 421. 83148
ORGANIZERS
EVENT
The World Pizza Championship is organized by the monthly magazine Pizza e Pasta Italiana, the magazine of reference of pizza and catering sector. The magazine is the reference point in Italy and abroad for the industry, whether restaurateurs rather than companies, investors, retailers, wholesalers and distributors both at national and international level. Technical articles, topical news, insights are offered each month by the editors and act as cynosure for understanding how the pizza market moves in Italy and in the major world markets. Now, in its 25th year of publication, Pizza e Pasta Italiana is also available free of charge on the web-site: www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it rather than through phones and tablets (Apple and Android) both in Italian and in English: furthermore every month, a wide free newsletter service updates readers on trends and innovations of the industry.
The World Pizza Championship, now in its 23rd edition, is the global event for excellence in the industry. Every year more than 500 competitors from around the globe will compete in 11 baking categories testing their knowledge and skills, judged by a careful and competent jury, which proclaims each year the World Champions. The event as well as being the scene of contest is also the reference point for all operators and specialists of the pizza sector: fair organizers, companies, buyers, a unique and privileged vantage point with respect to novelties and potential future trends in the sector. The World Pizza Championship will be held on April, 7th-8th9th 2014: information, regulations, how to enroll, partners of the event on the web-site www.campionatomondialedellapizza.it
PARMA PALACASSA 7.8.9 April 2014 Pizza e Pasta Italiana Via Sansonessa 49 - 30021 Caorle - VE - IT Tel. +39 0421 93148 F. +39 0421 81007 info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it
www.pizzaworldchampionship.com www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it www.pizzaepastaitaliana.tv
MEDIA
LOCALIZATION
The World Pizza Championship owes its importance and prestige, not only to the quality and internationality of the competitors who take part, but also to the wide media coverage that every year conveys the general public emotions and messages. Magazines, national and international TV, the world of specialized and web show bear an increasing attention and affection towards this event, thanks to the work done by the organization of the press office. This year as in the previous years the event will be broadcasted live streaming on the web-tv pizzaepastaitaliana.tv, which allows to spread around the world (in addition to transmitting the races live and delayed) also posts commercial partners and sponsor of the World Championship, reaching an international audience really targeted potential customers. In addition to this a targeted campaign to promotes the event on the main foreign trade magazines, from France to the U.S. to Japan to Australia, and in all the key markets for the pizza industry.
The exponential growth of enrolment to the events and the steady increase of interest from the world of production that operates in the pizza industry have taken the World Pizza Championship to the heart of the Food Valley World, Parma, in the imposing and prestigious structure of Palacassa, located inside the exhibition center of the city. The land of Parmigiano Reggiano, of Prosciutto, of the large vinegar making companies. Italian products of excellence that serve as a promotional vehicle for a unique global event that celebrates the world’s most popular Italian dish - pizza. Parma is accessible by all major transport connections in position with respect to the major cities of Northern Italy. The airports of Milan - Linate (120km) and “Marconi� in Bologna (90 km) can easily be reached in less than an hour.
Viale delle esposizioni 393/A 43126 Parma - Italy
Pizza e Pasta Italiana App
p. 18
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
THE CHEF
Massimo Bottura
p. 19
OSTERIA
FRANCESCANA THE RESTAURANT
T
he story of a great restaurant is primarily the story of a man (or a woman), his intelligence, his culture, his thirst for knowledge, his desire to try and try again, his experiences around for the world, intensely lived, his serious and mature professionalism and, of course, the outcome of his work. And the story of Massimo Bottura, chef and restaurateur among the best in the world, began in 1986, about a quarter of a century ago when, out of the family tradition, he has the opportunity to meet his secret wish, taking the road that felt more congenial and, in fact, he buys an old trattoria in Campazzo, near Nonantola, Italy and begins to create the cuisine of his dreams. Over the past ten years Massimo Bottura has become a leading figure among a new generation of Italian chefs. His work both as an innovator and restaurateur confirm him as one of the world’s most creative culinary forecs. His two restaurants, the 3 Michelin star Osteria Francescana and
offshoot brasserie Franceschetta58, are both situated in Modena, in the culinaryrich region of Emiglia-Romagna, Italy. In his first restaurants he follows two main strands: a deeper knowledge of the Emilian dishes offered to his customers and, at the same time, he decides to experiment new interpretations of that wonderful and rich cuisine in the respect and exaltation of the raw material. The results are so satisfying, that Massimo Bottura is briefly know even beyond regional borders. Already at that time, Massimo is interested in understanding how the international cuisine is evolving and relies on one of the most prestigious masters, George Cogny, one of the true masters of the kitchen in the second half of the last century. Then, in 1992, he goes to� Le Louis XV “ in Monaco with Alain Ducasse, honing a lot of his work in the wake of one of the best international cuisine. Ducasse is a happy discovery for Massimo and a friendship is born, the result of a mutual esteem, which is consolidated over time.
Giampiero Rorato
In Modena, Massimo Bottura has created one of the best-gourmet restaurants in the world, the highest expression of culture and of Italian gourmet intelligence
p. 20
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
THE RESTAURANT
The famous chef and French gastronomy manager follows closely the work of Massimo and his esteem for him is so great that he publicly stated that Massimo is one of the best chefs in the world that currently existing. During the 90s Massimo feels that he still needs to see and learn, and in 1995 went to New York to ripen other valuable experiences. When he returned to Italy, he opens a traditional trattoria in Modena, Osteria Francescana, which, strengthened by what has been learned and experienced there, produces its own kitchen that critics do not hesitate to define “ extraordinary “ and “creative”. After fifteen years of challenging experience and careful research around the raw materials and process technologies Massimo is still not happy . In 2000 he was fortunate to host in his restaurant the famous Spanish chef Ferran Adrià, intrigued by the fame acquired by the chef from Emilia and, impressed by the cuisine of Osteria Francescana invites Massimo in his restaurant in
Roses Spain. Massimo uses this new experience to embrace the “secrets” of Adrià, so, back to Modena gives a new face to its cuisine, characterized by a serious and deliberate manipulation of the ingredients, getting completely new dishes thanks to a new attention to the temperatures of cooking. Since then, in the world of haute cuisine you start hearing about “textures” and other similar words, words that arouse the interest of many chefs, not only Italian, studying what Bottura has done, consulting his books and meeting him in his restaurant. Massimo Bottura is followed with great attention abroad and international gourmets who like to take a tour d’ Italie gastronomic stop more and more of their Modena and rave reports, such as that of the French Academy of Cuisine that has defined him the best cook in the world, are a valuable food for the journey across high Italian cuisine, more and more appreciated on every continent. Osteria Francescana has now been the highest ranked Italian
restaurant for the past 5 years, cementing Massimo Bottura’s position as the leading figure of a new generation of Italian chefs. At Osteria Francescana, tradition is seen from ten kilometers away. Italy’s exceptional ingredients and classic dishes are re-evaluated with the benefit of critical distance, ensuring that the Italian Kitchen is free to evolve. Bottura is dedicated to reconstructing Italy’s cultural heritage and not deconstructing it. This intelligent evolution of Italian traditions can be seen in plates such as “Compression of Pasta and Beans” where the rules have been bent and come full circle, constantly reminding diners of Italy’s rich gastronomic heritage. Osteria Francescana, Via Stella, 22 41121 Modena Italy www.osteriafrancescana.it Osteria Francescana is closed for Saturday lunch and all day on Sunday. Reservations are essential
p. 21
Recipe:
Compression of
Pasta and Beans For the capon broth: 1 glass of sauternes, 700 g of capon, 1 celery, 1 carrot, 1 white onion, 200 g of crusts of Parmigiano -Reggiano cheese, black pepper bouquet and bay leaf and a sprig of thyme, salt. Start from cold water. Pour a glass of wine and add the capon. Clean the vegetables and insert them into the pot with the herbs. Brush the crusts of Parmigiano-Reggiano and leads to simmer skimming constantly. Reduce by 50 percent and filter. For maltagliati: the crust of Parmesan cheese. Boil the crust after it has been brushed (recovered with the broth). Still warm, cut it with the slicer and shape it as maltagliati with a knife.
For the creme royale: 50 g of foie gras, 20 g of cooked gammon rind, 20 g of beans, 20 g of capon broth and Parmesan crusts narrow, 10 g brown bottom, 1 egg yolk. Clean the foie gras from impurities. Enter the items in Thermomix and whisk quickly. Sifts and incorporates the yolk. Pour the mixture into small one shot glasses and cook in the oven at 90 degrees for about 45 minutes. For radicchio: 30 g of radicchio, a dash of Lambrusco di Castelvetro, 10 g of chopped bacon, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Shred the radicchio. In a copper saucepan, pour oil and bacon, saute for a minute combine with radicchio. Finish the cooking with Lambrusco.
For the cream of beans: 50 grams of beans already shelled, one shot of Malvasia Sorriso di cielo la Tosa, 20 g of white onion, 20g of carrot, 20 g of celery, 20 g of bacon, bouquet garni 1 \ 2 sprigs of rosemary and a few sage leaves, capon broth. Prepare a brunoise with celery, carrot and onion. In a saucepan, scald makes the bacon and then add the chopped. Fry for a while and join the beans. Saute with Malvasia. Add the bouquet garni and then little by little the hot broth . Cook for about thirty minutes. Remove the bouquet and does blend in Thermomix improving the consistency with the remaining stock.
For rosemary air: 50 g of rosemary, sugar to taste, a pinch of lecithin of 1.5 g. Centrifuge it with rosemary ice water, pass through a sieve, season with sugar and incorporate lecithin to mount the air. To assemble the final compression, take the shot, fill it with the creme royal, lay on top a little bit of braised radicchio, small peaces of maltagliati and cover it with hot cream of beans. Finish everything with a teaspoon of rosemary air.
From the lagoons of the “Parco Delta del Po”, Rovigo - ITALY
L’Acquaviva — the fruits of the sea The Parco Delta del Po, declared World Heritage by UNESCO for its historical and natural interest, is a wonderful land characterized by a fresh and exciting landscape, where nature reigns supreme and where the charm of the mouth of the river amazes and captures . It is in this naturalistic unquestionably unique area in Europe, that the Acquaviva was born and developed, establishing an alliance between man and nature. L’Acquaviva Ltd., headquartered in Porto Viro (Rovigo ), Italy, and was created on the basis of a long and proven experience in fish, taking care to select, produce and sell all kinds of edible bivalve molluscs, in particular vongole truly reared in the lagoons of the delta and mussels farmed in the Adriatic Sea including those of Scardovari D.o.p product. The plant is located close to the fishing spots and production, in a strategic point for the development of products in the Delta. All this enabled l’Acquaviva to gain an excellent reputation and positive feedback from consumers, because It respects the unique environment of the delta, one of the most beautiful and fascinating naturalistic places of Italy.
PORTOVIRO RO - VENETO
Some consortia groups in the lagoon of Caleri have developed a project for the construction of a certified supply chain, by adopting a product specification, also involving the partnerships of L’Acquaviva and allowing a complete production chain for molluscs, after purification, control and packaging, they may be marketed in the total safety of consumers. This method of operation is paramount, knowing that the greatest fear of consumers who eat molluscs is that they are contaminated, which would also be possible without a serious and careful purification and biological control of the product ready for the market. The model farm demanded by L’ Acquaviva is achieved without impacting on natural resources, a practicing sustainable farming in the lagoons of the Po Delta, contained in the naturalistic reserve. The company’s goal is to preserve the certification of its products certified by an independent third party and aimed at ensuring the market and consumers with the best quality and the best organoleptic characteristics.
The certification mark on the label of the product becomes an instrument of communication and promotion of the value added and differentiated factors that are offered by certified product. From the farming method in the waters of the Delta, the collection and selection of the best product that follows the treatment, control and packaging of the product. L’Acquaviva is currently at the top of the Italian market, it is in fact the first certified fish company at all stages of processing. Certified products, all of excellent quality, further guaranteed to consumers by a processing and distribution method through vacuum packaging. They can be found pre-cooked, frozen and tin, all products have the shell.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: www.l-acquaviva.it
IT AL Y IN AD E M
is born The true Italian certified clams born in the natural park of Delta del Po
PORTO VIRO (RO) ITALY - Via Po Vecchio, 20 Mobile: +39 346 71 32 469 - Tel. +39 0426 322 457 - info@l-acquaviva.it
“L’Acquaviva Spaghetti-Clams” ingredients: — 400 g of semolina spaghetti of durum wheat — 1 Kg of L’Acquaviva fresh clams — E.V.O.Oil — 2 cloves of garlic — 1 glass of white wine to fade — Chopped parsley — Salt and pepper to taste
Rinse clams, still closed, under running water for a bit ‘of time, then, well rinsed, put them in a pot with 2 tablespoons of water and a little bit of oil and leave them until they open up. Once open remove them and put them in another container leaving them to cool. Take another pan, put on the flame with the rest of the oil, add chopped garlic and let it cook until it takes a bit of color (when it starts to get dark, remove it from fire). Add the filtered clams.
Fry the whole thing for 2025 minutes, holding mixed occasionally with a wooden spoon. When the sauce is thickened, combine the clams throwing half of the valves(but it is good that we in the dough are then the clams with the own valve, even all, if like), and monitors and adjusts the seasoning, adding pepper and chopped parsley. Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in plenty of water salted water , drain when al dente and fouls jump into the sauce with clams ready, sending the table the pasta piping hot on plates hot.
NOTE: If you like, you can add put chopped garlic to brown two ripe tomatoes, freed of skin and seeds and so you have a paste shades on red.
p. 24
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
THE RESTAURANT
Recipe:
Not roasted guinea fowl For the mashed potatoes: 200 g potatoes, 50 g of white cow butter, 100 g whole milk, and villa Manodori extra virgin olive oil. Cook the potatoes, peel and mash. Pour them in a copper saucepan with a little bit of butter. Mount flush with the bamix adding extra virgin olive oil. Season with salt. For the laurel gel: 100 g of fresh bay, 200 g of water, sugar, agar agar 2 g . Carefully clean the bay leaves and take the hard part out. Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan, pour the bay leaves and
cook for 10 seconds. Drain laurel taking 50 g of the cooking water . Blend the laurel con150 g of cold water (4 ° C) for 3 minutes and passes through a fine sieve. Use the cooking water to dissolve the agar agar and once completely melted add the juice of laurel. Mix well and wait for it to congeal. At this point blend thoroughly to obtain the gel. For the broth and cooking guinea fowl guinea fowl: 2 Pharaoh (whole with guts and all), 60 g of terrine of foie gras, olive oil extra virgin olive oil.
Eviscerate the guinea fowl and the chicken, with the livers and stomach prepare a classic pate. Clean the guinea fowl, separating the thighs from the thighs and chest from the carcasses. Close each cut of meat in a separate vacuum bag. Cook the thigh at 65 ° C for 24 hours. The chest instead the cook at 63 ° C for 15 minutes. Once cool, carefully boned thighs and thighs. In the space vacated by the bones of the thigh stuffing with livers. For the broth of fowl: the carcass of a fowl, 2 cloves of garlic, 50 grams of ginger, 1 leek, 1
carrot, the celery stalk . Put the carcass in a pot in cold water. Turn the heat to high and boil vigorously for 5-6 hours carcass. At this point add the other ingredients and cooking continues for another 2 hours. Filter with a fine sieve and does reduce to the desired consistency. Season with salt. To the distillate of guinea fowl: 1 guinea fowl carcass, garlic to taste rosemary to taste. Make a classic roast guinea fowl with the carcass of a fowl. In a static oven at 180 ° C for 45 minutes. Put it to brew in cold water for 6 hours.
Mash carefully all the bones and the meat and prepared in distilled water. Insert in the rotavapor and the compound distills at 37 ° C under vacuum for 4 hours. For the spinach: 200 g spinach, extra virgin olive oil, salt. Clean the spinach taking the hard part out. Bring a pan with a little oil temperature . Skip fast spinach and dry them well on paper towels. To finish the dish: Balsamic Vinegar Get the upper tights and roast them on the skin of guinea fowl and in the pan, so that they are crispy.
Prepare a sauce with vinegar and bottom of guinea fowl. Helping with a brush lacquer guinea fowl , and have it cook in the oven at 200 ° C with fan -ventilated open, continuing to brush it periodically until you get a smooth lacquer. Arrange the mashed potatoes on the plate, on which rests the breast of guinea fowl. The intense broth of fowl on which rest the thigh lacquer. The sauteed spinach on which rests the Thigh and around points of vinegar and bay leaf gel. Once prepared the dish vaporizes all over the fowl of the distillate.
p. 26
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pizza e pasta italiana
THE RESTAURANT
Recipes:
I slipped the tart
For the mint sauce: 250 g of fresh peppermint, 100 g of natural mineral water, 30 g of xylitol, 0.5 g of essential oil of mint. Boil water in a saucepan, blanch the mint for 10 seconds ago cool in ice and water. It blend the mint thoroughly with the other ingredients , making sure that does not heat above 35 째 C. Pass through a fine sieve.
Ingredients: candied lemon (skin and pulp), charcoal aromatic mustard apples, candied ginger, lemon powder, mint sauce, zabaglione lemon, lemongrass ice cream, pastry tartlet with spices. Prepared as photos
For the zabaglione: 80 g lemon juice, 80 g of lemon liqueur from the Amalfi coast, 85 g of egg yolks, 50 g of sugar. Prepare a pot of boiling water and a bowl steel that can man entry inside. Once you reach a boil turn off the heat under the pot. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in the bowl out of focus. Begin to assemble vigorously with a whisk bowl putting in a water bath by adding the lemon first and then gradually limoncello. Wisk until the mixture is very fluffy.
For the ice cream: 800 g of fresh whole milk, 200 g cream, 10 sticks of lemongrass, 120g caster sugar, 50 g of glucose syrup, zest of 2 lemons. Add all the ingredients in Thermomix and brings to 85 째 C at a rate of 7. Once you reach the turn off temperature , filter and makes it cool in a water bath in the ice. Cola the mixture into a basket for the pacojet and does freeze. For the clipboard: 500 g flour, 400 g butter, 200 g sugar, 70 g of egg yolks, 20 g of spices mixed together cinnamon, star anise, juniper, pepper, cardamom. Knead the butter and sugar with your fingertips so as not to heat too much butter. Embed the egg yolks and then the flour. Knead thoroughly until the mixture is smooth. Leave to stand for 2 hours, stretch the tartlets in the molds and let her bake at 160 째 C for 8 minutes.
GIRARROSTI - CHURRASCHE - PIZZA GRILL - GRIGLIE - MULTIGRILL
DIAMO VALORE al nOstRO Made in Italy
p. 28
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
MATTER OF TASTE
THE PRIMACY OF FOOD QUALITY Haute cuisine is a fundamental value for tourism, but the commitment of individual entrepreneurs is not enough, we also need the support of the institutions
above
Antonino Cannavacciuolo
Nives Piva
I
taly should be proud of the quality of its food, as confirmed by the Health Ministry. Last year, in fact, only 0.4 % of Italian food products presented contamination by chemical residues against the European average of 1, 5 %, (four times!). Even worse with regard to non-EU countries, in which the percentage of contaminated food rises to 7.9%, then twenty times that of Italy and the overview in many other countries around the world is even worse. So the food in Italy - in families, in restaurants, pizzerias, communities, etc. - is healthy and natural, and this is also the basis on which the success of Italian cuisine. Restaurateurs and renowned chefs - among many we quote the following families the Alajmo, the Alia, the Ceres, the Iaccarino, the Santini, the Valazza, and as single chef Heinz Beck, Massimo Bottura, Antonio Cannavacciuolo, Moreno Cedroni, Igles Corelli, Enrico Crippa, Annie Feolde, Philippe Léveillé, Filippo Lamantia, Gualtiero Marchesi, Giancarlo Perbellini, Claudio Sadler, Davide Scabin, Ciccio Sultano, etc... – They not only highlight the best Italian cuisine, making it known and admired in the whole world, because, along with the kitchen, they know the high quality of Italian food products. The restaurateurs and chefs mentioned earlier - and, like them, there are several dozens more from Alto Adige to Sardinia - are the real precious ambassadors and promoters of Italian haute cuisine and deserve a lot of attention and strong support by institutions, because it is thanks to them that the big international gourmets know the extraordinary quality of Italian products - pasta, rice, wine, olive oil , cheese, salami and ham, vegetables, fruits, in addition to the wonderful types of local breads and Italian pastries.
above
Filippo La Mantia
0% 0 1 LITà
A A Q U LIAN ITA
Anche Leone Coppola, vincitore del Campionato Mondiale della Pizza 2013, da anni sceglie i Forni elettrici David.
®
I FORNI MADE IN ITALY www.fornidavid.it info@fornidavid.it
p. 30
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
MATTER OF TASTE
above
Ciccio Sultano
At a time of continuing economic crisis, the Italian food industry luckily continues to run in a positive way and deserves to be significantly strengthened as Italian cuisine - daughter of Italian food products - is one of the pillars of tourism. Here is another essential item for the Italian economy. Perhaps Italy does not have anywhere good infrastructure - roads, highways, railways, airports, hotels, resorts avant-garde - probably not at prices which are always correct, yet the foreigners arriving in Italy , however, and it would be necessary that it always arrived more , so intelligent forms must be identified for further attraction. The Minister Massimo Bray, who is responsible for the preservation and revitalization of Heritage and Culture, and the development of Tourist Activities will certainly know very well that to attract tourists in Italy there are not only Venice, Rome, Pompeii, the Adriatic coast, the Costa Smeralda, etc..., but also the many excellent restaurants (there are many), quality hotels (though still insufficient in different regions), the beaches well kept and organized (without
interference mafia-type), efficient transport, safe and fast. Sometimes it is not a question of investments but of ideas and senior bureaucrats who presided over the industry over the past decades have not - unfortunately for Italy - proved equal to the tasks entrusted to them, because many problems are still unsolved, probably ignored or forgotten. Whereas, in this sector, a global project, an ability to see beyond their nose (your area of expertise), understand that tourism is roads, hospitality, restaurants, museums, landscapes, organization, professionalism, cost and more. There are already some good positive points - quality catering, many museums and art galleries, historic homes, etc... - We start from these and proceed with serious projects and engaging with intelligence to revive in the world a better overall picture of our beautiful country.
above
Italian Minister of Culture Massimo Bray
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ITALIAN LEADER
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Istituzionale Doppia 2014 Le 5 Stagioni.indd 4
14/01/14 16:02
The conTInual reSearch and The profeSSIonal developmenT are eSSenTIal InGredIenTS for aGuGIaro and fIGna mIllS: ThanSk To new TechnIqueS, new producTS have been developed Such aS drIed moTher yeaST powder naTurkrafT. This is obtained through a spontaneous fermentation of a dough left to rise several times before the right level of acidity is reached.The result
is a dried product which guarantees an excellent rising process of the dough, a crispy, fragrant and extremely tasty pizza, where the flavours of the tradition are obtained thanks to new most innovative technology. A wide variety of pizza and bread mixes are excellent proposals for having products with soja, rice, barley, spelt and other cereals, suitable for every taste of the final consumer: thanks to this diversified assortment, everyone can enjoy best quality pizzas, breads and pastries.
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per tutte le altre informazioni: Sandra Ziliotti s.ziliotti@agugiarofigna.com Tel. +39 0521 301705 Riccardo Conforti r.conforti@agugiarofigna.com Tel. +39 0521 301709
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14/01/14 16:02
p. 34
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
Maturation, fermentation or both?
W 
hen we speak of dough for pizza (also applies to the bread, but it goes slightly in the second floor!) The first thing you should hear is the complex of biochemical and enzymatic reactions that occur in the so-called stage of matu-
Here is a topic of great interest, the knowledge of which is essential to be a cutting edge pizza chef, baker and confectioner ration. Very often, however, this term is used erroneously, inappropriately or as a synonym of fermentation. These complexes are quite distinct and different metabolisms as they foresee conditions and biochemical and enzymatic reactions that have nothing to do with each other, are not interchangeable, but the most consequential and/or employees, if there is no cure does not There can be no fermentation, development of flavors, crust color, digestibility, improving sensory etc.., representing however only two of the many and complex processes that occur in an equally complex structure called: dough. Simona Lauri Federazione Italiana Panificatori Pasticceri ed Affini - Food Italian Products
panification school
FERMENTATION The Fermentation
Just to clarify and focus on a very important topic: without yeast, and eukaryotic blastomicete, ascomycete S. cerevisiae, it is not possible to speak of alcoholic fermentation, without LAB (lactic acid bacteria) one can not speak of lactic fermentation (homo or hetero does not matter!), there will be no acetic acid bacteria and acetic fermentation away with that, why not a living being (whatever it may be!) one can not speak of fermentation/respiration whatever it is. Or even if the cells are not in a state of vital activities there will not be specific their metabolisms; the death of the cell does not occur in any type of metabolism and/ or energy transformation if not those involved in cell degradation, rotting etc...
above
Saccaromices Cerevisiae
From the point of view the chemical oxidative anaerobic fermentation is a process done by numerous organisms in carbohydrate loading (rarely amino acid) for the production of energy necessary to their survival. E 'then a biochemical transformation anabolic and/or catabolic, by which, through complex all reactions catalyzed by specific enzymes, we are witnessing the enzymatic metabolic transformation of monosaccharides present in the dough in ethyl alcohol, carbon dioxide, lactic acid, acetic acid, water , secondary metabolites, energy, etc.. and takes place within the microbial cell. In particular, speaking of alcoholic fermentation, the S. cerevisiae produces for every mole of glucose, 2 ethyl alcohol, carbon dioxide 2, 2 ATP (energy responsible for the heating of the mass) and 2 of water, while the respiratory process, operated by the same micro-organism, the presence of 6 moles of oxygen per mole of glucose, 6 produces carbon dioxide, 38 ATP and 44 of water with a total positive energy balance. In both cases, this is released in the form of heat (exothermic reaction!).
Therefore it is not possible without the microorganisms have neither the enzymes and/or enzyme complexes nor the specific cytoplasmic organelles (mitochondria, plasma membrane, cytosol, etc..) Containing these enzymes and unique creators of the above metabolisms. It 's clear that by varying the process conditions such as: temperature, osmotic pressure, water, sugar concentration, CFU/g of cells, pH, nutrients, oxygen, etc.., The speed of these reactions undergoes changes. The S. cerevisiae develops very well between 20 and 30 ° C showing an increase of 10% for every degree fermentative activity between 20 and 30° C, while presenting only one initial starting point within the first hour after the 30° C up to a decrease in the metabolism more than 40 ° C it dies around 45° C. Conversely temperatures close to 0 ° C involve a marked slowing of the metabolic activity (which still occurs!) Both as regards both the LAB S. cerevisiae, while below 0° C starts the freezing cell with the consequent block of each form metabolic (bacteriostatic and bactericidal not own).
p. 35
p. 36
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PANIFICATION SCHOOL
MATURATION The Maturation
Each micro-organism, is added voluntarily is present as a contaminant in the raw materials, draws nourishment through such transformations Catabolic starting right from simple organic substances coming, in turn, from complex macromolecules (starch, non-digestible polysaccharides, proteins, complex lipids, etc..). That were enzymatically hydrolysed in the first phase for the natural aging of the flour in the dough and, consequently, improving sensory and optimum digestibility of the final product are well optimized. With the term maturation means then the complex of countless biochemical reactions that are the basis of cleavage or enzymatic breakdown of complex molecules into simpler ones; from complex macromolecules in individual amino acids in the case of proteins, to monosaccharides in the case of polysaccharides (starch) etc...
To put it a little bit easier, you can generally identify the concept as: the necessary time and variable so that the complex organic macromolecules present in the dough are transformed into simpler molecules. Such a modification should be performed at low temperature (from +1째 C to +4째 C max), slowly and be at least 24 hours to ensure a quick and easy digestibility of the dough by the human body. In summary, it can then identify, in broad terms, some of the structural changes that occur at this stage and these temperatures: variation of the rheological properties, greater lightness of the mass, for the gradual and slow production of gas, in addition to a 'proteolytic action on the gluten structure by endogenous and exogenous proteases present mainly in the LAB and activated abasement of pH values. Besides that, it matches the hydrolysis of complex macromolecules in simple molecules by the action of enzyme complexes such as amylase, protease, lipase, glucoamylase, etc. pentosanasi. and last but not least, the use by yeasts or microorganisms in general of the molecules resulting from said enzymatic action (amino acids, simple sugars, nitrogen, etc..) to produce energy not only
to themselves, but aromatic volatile compounds responsible for the aroma and flavor. As noted earlier, at low temperatures, the phenomenon of fermentation will be deliberately slowed to the point that prefer the ripening on the complex of the typical reactions of the alcoholic fermentation, lactic etc.. In these conditions, the ripeness of the dough and then the fermentation take place in tandem, slowly, in parallel without the predominance of leavening on the same maturation. Only after curing will choose to operate the gradual raising of the temperature in order to increase, to balance and optimize the fermentation process. It's clear that at this point opens up a world as diverse and complex as a function of: temperature / time, habits, rheological properties of the flour, the percentage of yeast used, etc.., But always able to optimize and/or standardize both the one is the other process. A concept, however, should be quite clear:
there is no maturation digestibility of the final product!
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w w w. d e l l o ro. i t
p. 38
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PANIFICATION SCHOOL
table of main enzymatic processes Temperature (°C)
18 - 20 28 35< t < 40 4
KEY :
Biochemical transformation anabolic and/or catabolic, through complex reactions all catalyzed by specific enzymes, we are witnessing the enzymatic metabolic transformation of monosaccharides present in the dough in ethyl alcohol, carbon dioxide, lactic acid, acetic acid, water, secondary metabolites, energy, etc... and occurs within the microbial cells.
Main enzymatic processes
Alcoholic fermentation until the death of microbial cells. The alcoholic fermentation/cell respiration takes over on maturity. Max 28 development of the alcoholic fermentation and maturation. Decrease of alcoholic fermentation, increase the metabolic activity of lactic acid bacteria, the absence of maturation. Increase/marked slowdown of the fermentation process and/or metabolism in general. Apparent increase of maturation according to the number of hours. The maturation has the upper hand on the alcoholic fermentation. Prolonging time in this phase will increase more and more the maturation at the expense of the fermentation process. Beneath the 24-hour maturation occurs, but is not yet complete. More than 24 hours and up to the limit of the seal gluten structure, the process occurs in markedly increased , while it remains steadily slowed at much lower levels alcoholic fermentation.
- absent ++ but this is not the optimum ++++ present to the maximum + but this slowed down
above
Simona Lauri at work
The countless complex of biochemical reactions that are the basis of enzymatic cleavage or decomposition of complex molecules into simpler ones.
Alcoholic fermentation
Maturation
++
–/+
++++
–
++
–
+
++++
p. 44
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pizza e pasta italiana
The Italian gastronomic tradition looks to the future and evolves Daniela Fusillo
side
The president of the Academy, Chiara Manzi with a group of students
Iâ&#x20AC;&#x160;
t is now recognized that we live longer and longer, with a rise in the average age which became very pronounced over the last few decades, because the life quality has drawn peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attention. In recent times, emphasis is being given to tradition that tells the history and the taste of a territory and its people, but it is necessary to discuss the features and values of tradition that can not ignore the well-being of those living in an area, of those who visit, those who love the territory. From ancient times, chefs, pastry chefs and, more recently, pizza makers have ventured into virtous performances, showing incredible skills, delighting and exciting people,
and continue to do so, but the needs of modern man have changed and felt by many an ever more attention when talking about food, which is the basis of physical and, often, people's psychological attitude. Food in general is a very sensitive issue, because too often wrong answers were led to believe that taste and health were antagonists and that the only way out was to enjoy a dinner and promise to go on a diet soon after; for the less fortunate the only way out is to follow a diet. Thus, there is the need for a new and more serious food culture and, therefore, Kitchen Academy Evolution (www.cucinaevolution.it) is
born, located in the prestigious residence of the Marchese del Grillo in Fabriano, so dear also to Alberto Sordi, with the ambitious goal of wanting to spread a culture that enhances the taste of food that has endeared Made in Italy in the world, while taking in the foreground consumer welfare. This is the manifesto of a company that a few years ago has emerged from the numerous proposals of the culinary world created in Fabriano, in the green heart of the Marche region, the first training center in Nutritional Sciences applied to the Kitchen Europe in. Hence the name of the Academy, Nutrition joins Art Academy, where art meets science.
What distinguishes the formation of the Academy of Cuisine Evolution, directed by Chiara Manzi, is its ability to comparison with the culinary world by nutritionists to provide chefs, pastry chefs and pizza makers the tools to apply their art to the science of nutrition, which is a serious culture of this area, along with technical expertise and practical, thanks to which researchers become well-being and not just researchers of taste. This is not to revolutionize a centuries-old culinary heritage, but doing it properly means evolving paradoxically making a return to the past, to make it again allied health while not giving up anything in the pleasures of the senses.
p. 46
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pizza e pasta italiana
side
Chiara Manzi
The chanteur The evolution of tradition, it is clear, can not do without those people working in the restaurant field, starting with the maitre and waiters, and is also looking to them the training that is taken care of in the Academy and what to make them aware of the importance of communication of the dish to the customer, so that they can convey the passion for that specific dish.
It is important for this reason that, for example, the waiter, as the bearer of dishes must be "a chanteur", who talks about that specific food and the emotions that it encloses.
What about the success of chef, pizza chefs and pastry chefs? The question here is not farfetched, because the success of catering professionals depends on the quality of life of their clients. Not only the future but today the need of competent professionals who know how to enhance their cooking skills by directing it to the welfare of their customers, who understand how important their role is: to delight the senses of the client at the same time doing good to his health!
In the past, gourmet cookbooks, in the wake of the ArabPersian and Greek culture, as well as the "Regimen Sanitatis Salernitanum" dating back to the twelfth or thirteenth century, were real medical treatises and art or rather the science of cooking, found its justification in making food good for health and good for the pleasure of the senses and in those distant centuries recipes were especially dietary purposes. Then at the end of the Italian Renaissance, when imposed in Europe, the French, the beautiful and the good in the kitchen had a clear predominance on the "healthy".
above
Chiara Manzi and Montersino
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p. 48
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pizza e pasta italiana
above
Fabriano
Kitchen Evolution or Humanistic Kitchen? The tradition, as we well know, is the outcome of time and by definition is good and healthy. These are some of the many issues discussed at a recent meeting held in Fabriano, with the participation of distinguished speakers including a history professor of the University of Padua, prof. Danilo Gasparini, answered to the following questions: " could the definition of cook-doctor be recomposed?" He replied: "You could do it ... the modern nutritionist is reclaiming the role in the kitchen once embodied by the doctor."
But then what about taste? And what about organoleptic developed over the centuries? The response of the professor has caught on in amazement as present: "There will be a time of healthy goodies, a delicatessen nutrition, a" humanistic kitchen ", that's Kitchen Evolution!â&#x20AC;? The contemporary age has its own needs, new and changed compared to the past; Kitchen Evolution (or Humanistic Kitchen? ...) With the science of nutrition applied to the kitchen is able to recover and put back together the size of the healthy food - the traditional dishes, the proposals of the great chefs, the pizzas more traditions and the most delicious, the most delicious cakes, etc.. - Without giving up organoleptic background, starting from the wonderful tradition handed down to us, through the genius of the artists of taste.
above
Danilo Gasparini
This will be the new frontier in the great tradition of Italian gastronomic point of reference for all serious professionals.
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2014 Brand New
More than just Flour Everything is special in Dallagiovanna’s flours: intuition in choosing the most suitable wheats, methods of analysis and research, best tradition processes and the most avant-guard machinery. Last but not least there are the Masters of the White Art Laboratory, important professionals and teachers in the leading schools in Europe, whom with their experience are fundamental for the continuous improvement of production. 100% nature, 100% high quality Our wheat comes exclusively from the EU, USA and Canada, and the majority is from Piacenza”KM. 0”. We also require a wheat passport from our suppliers, stating the origin and any treatments the grains were subjected to. The grains are stored naturally, with cool air and without pesticides. We are the only mill to wash grain using potable water, and once the kernel is adequately dampened, milling is even and slow, without ever damaging the starches and protein. Finally, we implement constant Quality Control, thanks to the professionals in our Production Department, our Analysis and Research Laboratory and the White Art Masters who work in constant collaboration to render every blend the perfect Flour. WHEAT WASHING The practice of washing is – or better was – used mainly to clean the wheat and to eliminate impurities before the milling process; the flour becomes whiter and the grains can be milled in a more homogeneous way. After a first air cleaning, grains are dipped in water for some hours, according to their properties. It is a very important process, now forgotten by big companies that prefers, for financial reasons, dry cleaning followed by conveyor conditioning. The Molino Dallagiovanna, along with few other small high-quality artisan producers, considers cleaning one of the key requirements for creating a superior flour, regardless of the extra costs and profit margins.
+ Special Flours: studied and tested for any requirement - bread, pizza, pasta, shortcrust and puff pastry, big and small leavened products. + Gluten-Free and Lactose-Free preparations: taste and health in the same dish - bread and pizza, pasta, fried sweets and leavened products. + Semi-Processed flours: discover new tastes - for pizza and for leavened products.
Nearly 200 years of milling tradition to offer you over 50 blends, approved by international quality certifications and processed with the best production methods of every era. With us, your dough will always be the best of your life.
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p. 52
2014
pizza e pasta italiana
LILIANA PAPAROTTI
letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s write about pizza
T
he real pizza was born in the south out of the necessity to render flatbreads more attractive, and make the best use of available resources. It is traditionally believed that pizza was born in Naples. However, as mostscholars confirm, this is not so much because it was actually invented in the city of Naples itself as the fact that pizza is the culinary standard bearer of the south and the Naples is always celebrated as the heart of the south.The first true pizza was that made with the bread dough, baked in the oven and dressed with garlic, lard and coarse salt, so it was like a flat cake with dressing. Soon the lard was overtaken by oil, and cheese and aromatic herbs were added, thus creating the Roman moretum. The pizza with basil is called pizza Mastunicola. The including of whitebait dates from the same period, and thus the name of a particular type of flatbread: cecinelli - or small fry. We are in the seventeenth century and the flatbreads with topping have made their entrance, but they do not yet include mozzarella or tomatoes and are still not widespread, as the majority favours flatbread with fat, salt and garlic.
We recognise the appearance of tomato sauce for the first time in a written work dating from 1778, Il Cuoco Galante - A Gallant Chef by Vicenzo Corrado. The tomato was imported from America into Europe and spread by the Spanish, but was not employed to dress either Maccheroni (pasta) or pizza in those times. Buffalo milk mozzarella also appeared, but again did not make its way to the pizza. Tomatoes were first used as a regular dressing for pasta by open-air bakers selling to the passing trade. The sauce was made in a large saucepan, and the tomatoes were flavoured with a pinch of salt and some basil leaves â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and we are already at the beginning of the XIX century. Gradually tomato sauce became a more widespread ingredient of pizza - and buffalo milk mozzarella too â&#x20AC;&#x201C; around the mid 19th century, although works by one of the most committed chefs of his day, Ippolito Cavacanti Duca di Buonvicino, contain no references to either of them. Tomato represents a benchmark in the history of pizza, certainly more than mozzarella, because different cheeses or even buffalo milk mozzarella were used only cautiously on pizzas before 1850.
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LET’S WRITE ABOUT PIZZA The decisive year for the pizza was 1889, when a series of pizzas were officially launched, after being carefully produced for decades in pizzerias of the Naples and the Italian south in general:
PIZZA ALLA MASTUNICOLA – with lard, cheese and basil
PIZZA ALLA MARINARA – with tomato, garlic, oil and oregano.
PIZZA MARGHERITA – with tomato, oil, mozzarella and basil.
In practice, however, the Pizza alla Mastunicola was already invented in the 1600s, Pizza alla Marinara in 1800s and Pizza Margherita in 1850s. At the end of the XIX century, a real explosion of many varieties of pizza occurred in the south of Italy, and soon afterwards spread to the United States, with a special welcome in New York’s Little Italy. The development spread to northern Italy in the early years of the twentieth century thanks to dedicated cooks from the south who with their ability and experience managed in a few decades to carry pizza into the modern age. But let us step back for a moment to a truly historic day for pizza, the 9th of June, 1889, when Umberto I and his consort Queen Margherita, summon
Don Raffaele Esposito and his wife Rosa Brandi to the Palace of Capodimonte. They pair are the owners of the already famous pizzeria Pietro il Pizzaiolo (Peter the Pizza Maker), situated on the slopes of the Sant’Anna di Palazzo, in the heart of Chiaia di Napoli. The royal couple have heard many stories concerning the legendary skills of the man reputed to be the finest pizza chef of his times. Accordingly, the couple carefully prepared three classic pizzas, thoughtfully christening one – topped with mozzarella and tomato - Pizza Margherita in honour of the Queen. (The story goes that by using ingredients matching the three colours of the Italian national flag - green, red and white - Mrs Brandi sought to honour the majesty of the sovereigns. Nonetheless the result was an entirely new and formidable pizza which became hugely popular, so much that it was the favourite of the Austrian born Maria Carolina, wife of Ferdinand IV Bourbon). Another legend of pizza states that one day the Vulcan, blacksmith to the gods and husband of Venus, the beauty queen of all goddesses, appeared famished with hunger from labouring at his forge, and asked his consort what she had ready to eat. Venus, who had unfortunately forgotten to prepare lunch, instantly rushed o put some flatbreads on the red hot stones of Vesuvius, having previously soaked them with goats milk and garnished with aromatic herbs and juicy berries. That is an alternative tale of how pizza was born.
The credit for the enormous success of pizza, a simple, agreeable, tasty and inexpensive dish celebrated around the globe, belongs undeniably to the Neapolitans, who are immensely proud of their unique skills and methods in preparing the basic dough base, the starting point of all successful pizza recipes, which opens the door to infinite varieties of flavours according to fashion, taste and personal diets. By ancient tradition pizza was high and soft, with raised edges, but of late and especially in Rome, central Italy and in the north, pizza comes to the table thinner and more crunchy while its edges have displayed a tendency to disappear (although not of course at the hands of any self respecting Neapolitan who always adheres firmly to the traditional recipe). Another evolutionary development is away from wholemeal flour in favour of more refined flours, which contribute to more springy and elastic dough, or even blends of different types of flour. In the ancient tradition wood fire ovens were always used, in company with a very lively fire. The pizza was customarily baked at the base of the flame, rather than by refracted heat. Nowadays the trend is to use electric or gas ovens, but the main difference lies in the cooking not with a flame, but with the total mass of heat refraction. To the stout hearts, the use of modern equipment is strictly forbidden in the traditional cooking, while those who use modern technologies produce the basic material and the base faster and with a lot of help from modern kitchen appliances. To sum up, the success of a good pizza lies in the balance that is struck between offer and demand. The dish must always be well-cooked, digestible and expertly finished with the desired topping. The pleasure given to the palate of the diner is always more important than how the dough was prepared.
TIMELINE ILLUSTRATA DI MOLINO MAGRI
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ITALY
Molino Magri Srl Strada Mantova, 13 – 46045 Marmirolo (MN) T: +39 0376 466022 E: commerciale@molinomagri.it www.molinomagri.it/en
W
e are a family. Everyday we make an effort to offer flours, mixes and concentrates of the best quality, with full respect for our tradition and for the needs of those people who make bread and for those who bring it to the table.
M
OLINO Magri gives shape to the know-how that has been developed in the last years and decides to create a group of experts, in and outside the company, where everyone can share its own expertise. This organization gives birth to a unique and dynamic group. It introduces a new approach to the work in the mill, substituting the individual’s work with the group’s work, the work of many people.
M
ILLER’s grinding work coexists today with an innovative and technological structure made of people first, who bring forward the milling tradition of Magri family with expertise and passion.
D
AY by day people who are part of the Technical Team of Molino Magri contribute to the production of high quality flours, mixes and concentrates, service and technical assistance...
We develop technical and technological progresses to guarantee the excellence of product. We develop the control, quality and research program daily, also in collaboration with some italian Universities. We develop new products in order to satisfy the needs of people who make bread and for those who bring it to the table. We do total assistance to national and international customers. We promote respect for the environment. We maintain a certification system, recognized on national and international territory.
We do internal consultancy: organize training courses for its own staff about PREADING QUALITY VALUE IS A production and selling. MAIN PRINCIPLE: all-round quality, which involves the five senses. Every We do external consultancy: educate cussingle aspect is committed to specific a technical and a marketing competences, because Molino Magri’s Foto di alcuni esponenti deltomers Team from Tecnico, flours are the result of a perfect harmony point of view to guarantee a long-lasting da usare composte come così transmission o come preferite... of Molino Magri’s values. between nature, people and technique.
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Gourmet Pizzas RECIPES OFFERED BY Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli
gourmet pizzas
p. 57
1 PIZZA OF THE “ADRIATIC SEA” WITH SOYBEAN FLOUR — Soybean in short Soybean is a legume, cultivated mainly in the United States, China and Brazil, an important ingredient in the Asian culinary tradition. Until a decade or so ago its use in Europe was limited due to the unpleasant flavour which tends to form during the cooking process. Only recently has research conducted in the United States suggested methods to remove the substances responsible. Being rich in proteins, soybean has a high nutritional value. Apart from their nutritional value, soybean proteins deliver significant advantages deriving from their functional properties, which improve the characteristic of pizza dough. In fact, addition of the soybean flour encourages faster moisture absorption by the dough. The soybean proteins improve the texture and softness of breadcrumb and humidity retention, which slows down the dehydration process, thus extending preservation life (sliced pizza). Since soybean readily absorbs water, it is necessary to decrease the amount of used mixture (flour). Content of nutrients in soybean
proteins 38-42% fats 20-24% carbohydrates 35% vitamin e, k, b, pp mineral salts calcium, iron, magnesium fibre 5%
— Why soybean? Soybean represents a source of protein that is easily assimilated and digested by human organism, to the extant that it can compete with the so called noble proteins found in meat, eggs and milk. Medical science points to soybean phospholipids as a significant factor in eliminating excessive cholesterol from the blood. Soybean is rich in minerals essential for human organism, namely calcium, iron, phosphor, potassium and magnesium, which makes it a perfect accompaniment to the principal product of the Mediterranean diet: bread. Besides, pizza with soybean flour is recommended for all those who regard good eating as an element of looking after their personal health without renouncing flavour. This is food for all age groups, sensible for those looking to their body weight and those involved in sports or intellectual activities.
recipe for dough: DIRECT METHOD WITH LONG PROVING Ingredients: 1 Lt water (0.219 gal) 1.8-1.9Kg flour W=320 380 (3.964.18 lb) 2-10g dried yeast (0.004-0.02 lb) 1g malt (or 3 g caster sugar) (0.002 lb) (0.006 lb) 50g salt (0.11 lb) 50g virgin olive oil (0.11 lb) Ingredients for the topping: Sea Food (before panned ) fried with garlic, white wine, tomatoes, cappers and Taggiasca Olives.
Gra
by ertuzzo o B zian
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GOURMET PIZZAS
2
PIZZA ON THE PEEL “ GOOD-BYE SUMMER” Pizza on the peel or pizza in slices was born in the area of Naples, but it finds great success and development specially in Rome and in the nearby area. It replaces in a certain way pizza in the pan and it slightly changes its recipe, whereas it differs from pan pizza only for the way of baking, for pizza on the peel it is cooked directly on the refractory material, both for the electric oven and for the fire-wood oven. Pizza on the peel is ordered asking for the length of the slice you wish to eat, therefore its price is based on the length factor or once you decide the length then it is weighed and the price is fixed on the basis of this criteria. In the pizzeriarestaurant or in the pizzeria with tables and chairs generally pizza on the peel has a fixed length and it corresponds with the length of the dish where it is displayed.
It is egg-shaped, thick and with many alveolus (holes). It could be an excellent substitute to the old pizza, also in those pizzerias with seats, maybe served on a long breadboard with different toppings and then sliced. It is well known that you eat first with the eyes and than with the mouth. In short, if pizza is nice to be looked at, with a fine topping, with different colours, it lures the clients to buy more than one slice. In order to work good even when competition is tough or when the clients diminish, one has to have a lot of fantasy, taking out from one’s cylinder those magic effects which make the difference for a good pizzaiolo.
RECIPES FOR PIZZA ON THE PEEL DIRECT METHOD Ingredients: 1 Lt. water (0.219 gal) 1.5-1.6 Kg flour W=250 280 (3.33.52 lb) 10-15g dried yeast (0.02-0.03 lb) 1g malt (or 3 g caster sugar) (0.002 lb) (0.006 lb) 50g salt (0.11 lb) 50g virgin olive oil (0.11 lb) Ingredients for the topping: Songino Salad Porcini Mushroom Pachino Tomatoes Val Tellina Bresaola D.O.P. Stracciatella Cheese
Gra
by ertuzzo o B zian
100%Neapolitan, a truly masterpiece! Our ovens are 100%handmade, built brick by brick in Neaples without using any prefabricated pieces as old Neapolitan tradition.
Neapolitan handmade brick ovens Quality and Neapolitan tradition
3 generations to make the best. A century-old tradition studied over the years to bring to you the best product. Quality combined to experience, approved in the whole world. Not only tradition, but also for passion!
Address: Via F. Coppi 3/B - 80010 Quarto(NA) Tel/Fax: +39 081 876 1664 Email: info@stefanoferraraforni.it Web: www.stefanoferraraforni.it
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MINI SWEET & SAVORY
FOR PIZZERIAS GIOVANNA ALLEGRA
T
he world of pizzeriarestaurants - in Italy and abroad - is in full evolution, certainly much more than the restaurant market. The proliferation of pizzeria guide demonstrates that people interested in the industry is in turmoil. The very same work of the Milan Polytechnic launching courses lead by Poli Design and the milling company Agugiaro & Figna with their brand â&#x20AC;&#x153;5 Stagioniâ&#x20AC;? for pizzerias for the creation of cutting-edge pizzerias, involving many young architects highlight the enormous excitement in the
industry, which is increasingly assuming high levels of qualified entrepreneurship having a place in the world of quality restaurants. And the quality of supply is markedly and progressively improving, with new proposals for pizza, with alternative dishes that complement the offer. The enhancement of pizza dough is the basis according to Dr. Simona Lauri, expert in baking and leavening, a leading authority in technical and scientific bakery topics in Italy. She is happy to present in these pages a way of recycling old left over dough for pizza.
the bakery corner
Croissants in pizzeria
Currently many pizzerias also perform several other functions, they are restaurants, bars, and cocktail bars, only at night but in the morning they serve breakfast to those who go to work. And so that the croissants are the focus. And they are also excellent savory therefore attractive for many other occasions. But how to get them in a pizzeria? We asked dr. Simona Lauri. "A recipe to make the croissants in pizzeria involves the use or, better said, the" recycling "of a loaf of left over pizza dough. It is important to say this because, in the case of sweet croissants just with or without yeast, the original mixture contains, sugar, butter, eggs, milk with more or less significant variations dictated by the individual personal interpretation. Making the mini croissants browsed leavened with a mixture created specifically for pizza on the peel, was as always a challenge especially for the "poverty" of the same due to lack of ingredients and classic identification and maturation of the dough. Without this, necessary technical considerations, I can say that "neutral" dough from pizza proved to be immediately suitable for a double
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use: cover with salted sesame seeds, poppy, grated cheese, etc.., For stuffing with fish, cheeses, meats or sweet cover with chocolate chips, sugar, pip seeds, whole cane and combined with jam fillings, creams. In this case the dough, matured for three days at +4 째 C, weighing approximately 1.0 Kg was mixed with 300 g of butter.
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THE BAKERY CORNER
The technical difficulty in making these products is not so much in the techniques used to mix manually or mechanically, with three folds or four, this is the number of bends etc.., Slightly weaker than in the structure of the gluten net due precisely to the previous storage or ripening at +4 C. It is clear that the longer the ripening the structure will tend to fall apart making it difficult for the introduction of the fatty part. Therefore, in the initial formulation of the mix, we recommend: add the malt in a percentage varying between 0.5 and 1.0% calculated on the flour, bake at 210 째 C (about 20 째 C higher than the classical cooking browsed sweet croissants) and use mixtures with a maximum of one or two days of ripening. It should be noted that the same technique of stripping already implies a subsequent storage or rest of a day at +4 째 C which is added to the previous storage already suffered from the crowd! For all products browsed, the further step of about 24 hours in the cold, plays a key role in ensuring the solidification of the fat mass is present in the formulation of the dough is used to browse for that. During cooking, the layers of fat tend to make the dough impermeable to water vapor and carbon dioxide. With the increase of temperature, the gases
increase their motions of thermal agitation, causing the consequent increase in internal pressure and volume. Such molecules, encountering the films of fatty material waterproof (barrier effect), the layers of sticky starch and gluten structure, generate the raising and the separation of the layers. The gluten structure and the barrier effect created by each individual layer of fat, allow the water vapor and gas in pressure, to raise the top layer in laminated form - stratified and to prevent diffusion of said molecules in the external atmosphere. Macroscopically will then be possible to note the increase in volume of the product and the formation of stratification typical of the puff pastry. " Our hope is that the proposed Simona Lauri represents not only an indication to put into practice in many pizza, pizza for those many who are waiting for an opportunity to realize them and offer them to their customers, enabling the gradual transition from industrial to those sweet anonymous crafts (as is the case in most restaurants). Of this general change of direction, from large industry handicraft product safely, has noticed also that Monsanto was forced to withdraw from the European Union (28 countries) since the people and, consequently, also the great distribution, married the health consciousness. Nevertheless it remains true that craft and confectionery industry sector are not in conflict, though the industry - as is now happening more and more in Italy - bride the health of consumers and informs us with clear labels and truthful.
Research and selection
Pizza Products – Snacks, tarts, sauces, cured meats and cheese - Catering products Food high quality products, distributed for more than 30 years are the warranty of the competence and of the absolute seriousness of Sanfelice company. Respecting the highest quality standards, the company Sanfelice entrusts highly specialized companies for the production of its products, able to control the raw materials, of high quality, that will be transformed into great gastronomic products distributed by the Sanfelici company directly to restaurants, bars, trattoria and pizzeria. More than 30 years the continuous growth underlines the success of our company, offering the best quality and price. The Sanfelice company strives to promote every day the Italian quality of food and beverage in the world. Accuracy in the selection of products and continuous research are the key to success.
Headquarters – Show Room – Demonstrations Via Tadesa, 2/A - San Fermo di Piubega - MN Tel. 0346.655737 - 0376.655014 - Fax 0376.655738 E-mail: sanfelicifranco@sanfelici.it www.sanfelici.it - www.sanfelicifranco.com
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Virgilio Pronzati
Barolo Docg Ascheri 2009
The wine corner CATEGORY Dry Red. Grape variety: Nebbiolo. Bottle: 75 cl. Alcohol: 14.5% Lot: AS. 1.13. Clamp DOCG AADJ 08983451. Bottles produced: 2,000. Average price per bottle: € 25.40. Storage: in the basement, in a lying position on shelves used for red wines with long aging at a temperature between 12 and 14 ° C. Time consumption: still 4-5 years. Evolution: young but fairly balanced. Service: pour out at 18 ° C in large glasses with medium stem. Food Matches: braised meat, jugged hare, wild boar stew, seasoned Bra cheese. ORGANOLEPTIC TEST The look is clear. Garnet red color and alive with light orange rim. Very intense and persistent, fairly fine, large and complex, with clear hints of floral, fruity, spicy vegetable and dried wild rose, wild ripe red berries and a little ‘dried, ground almond and hazelnut dry, and mild truffle , mint, dark chocolate, black pepper, juniper and woody. Dry, fresh, tasty, very hot, but pleasantly astringent with a clear, full but slender, persistent, with bottomastringent aftertaste. Aftertaste: tannic and floral, fruity, herbal and spicy.
Azienda Agricola Ellena Giuseppe Borgata Ascheri Sottani 62 12064 La Morra (CN)
CONSIDERATIONS Very good. Made from selected Nebbiolo grapes of the vineyard Ascheri of 44 years with a yield of 50 quintals per hectare, located in La Morra. Winemaking: The grapes are destemmed, fermented and macerated for 30 days with frequent pumping in stainless steel vats at 28 ° C. Followed by malolactic fermentation in stainless steel vats, aging of 30 months in oak barrels and oak barrels and aged for several months in the bottle. Evolution: still young.
— APPEARANCE Clarity 5. Color: 5. — PERFUME - Intensity 5. Persistence 4. Finesse 4. Harmony 4. — TASTE Persistence 4. Fullness 5. Flavor 4. Acidity/softness 5. Harmony 4. — RATING: Excellent 4. TOTAL SCORE
53 /60
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THE WINE CORNER
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Doc 2010
CATEGORY Dry Red. Grape variety: Montepulciano. Bottle: 75 cl. Alcohol: 13.5%. Lot: 13050 C. Average price for bottle: € 9.00. Storage: in the basement, in a lying position on shelves used for red wines of medium to long aging at a temperature between 12 and 14 ° C. Time consumption: still 3-4 years. Evolution: almost ready. Service: pour out at 17 ° C in large glasses with medium stem. Food matches: roast rabbit, goat stew, lamb chops on the grill, Caciotta of Urbino few months old.
CONSIDERATIONS Good. Made from selected grapes of Montepulciano vineyards with a yield of 60 hectoliters per hectare. Winemaking: The grapes are harvested by hand, are traditionally vinified with a long maceration on the skins in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature. After malolactic fermentation the wine is racked, and decanted into stainless steel tanks. Ageing: in barriques.
ORGANOLEPTIC TEST The look is clear. Ruby color and alive with purple rim. Intense and persistent, fairly fine, with clear hints of fruit, vegetables and spicy blackberry, black cherry and ripe plum, dried herbs in the mountains, white pepper and woodsy. Dry, fresh, fruity, pleasantly astringent, warm, full and persistent, with bottom-astringent aftertaste. Aftertaste: tannic and fruity, herbal and spicy.
— APPEARANCE Clarity 5. Color: 4. — PERFUME - Intensity 5. Persistence 4. Finesse 4. Harmony 4. — TASTE Persistence 4. Fullness 5. Flavor 4. Acidity/softness 4. Harmony 4. — RATING: Excellent 4.
Aulicus di Citra Vini Società Cooperativa
51 /60
Contrada Cucullo - 66026 Ortona (CH)
Fiano di Avellino Docg 2011 Particella 928
CATEGORY Dry white. Grapes: Fiano. Bottle: 75 cl. Alcohol: 13%. Lot: 6341. Clamp DOCG AAB 03593454. Bottles produced: 4,000. Average price per bottle: € 18.10. Storage: in the basement, in a lying position on shelves used for white wines aging medium, at a temperature between 12 and 14 ° C. Time consumption: another 2-3 years. Evolution: almost ready. Service: pour out at 12 ° C in large glasses with stems. Pairing: linguine with seafood, fish and shellfish soup in white bowl of sea bass, sea bream grilled. ORGANOLEPTIC TEST The look is crystal clear. Intense straw-yellow with golden hues. Intense, persistent, composite, with hints of floral, fruity and plants of peach and acacia flowers withered, dry bitter almond, grapefruit, passion fruit, and mild in minerals and aromatic herbs. Dry, fairly soft but very tasty, a bit ‘mineral, warm, full and persistent, with a pleasant fruity-bitter end. Aftertaste: vein savory and mineral and floral, fruity and vegetal.
Cantina del Barone Via Provinciale 87/37 - 83020 Cesinali (AV)
TOTAL SCORE
CONSIDERATIONS Very good. Made from selected grapes of a vineyard of the same name about 13 years encoded as particle 928 is located in the municipality of Cesinali. Fermentation: the must obtained from the pressing of the grapes, fermented using indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature. Maturation of the wine: five months in stainless steel tanks. Fining of 2 months in the bottle.
— APPEARANCE Clarity 5. Color: 4. — PERFUME - Intensity 5. Persistence 5. Finesse 4. Harmony 4. — TASTE Persistence 4. Fullness 5. Flavor 4. Acidity/softness 5. Harmony 4. — RATING: Excellent 4. TOTAL SCORE
53 /60
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THE BAR CORNER
AMARETTO LIQUEUR "PRO GRATIA RICEVUTA" D
uring the second decade of the sixteenth century, namely between 1525 and 1532, Bernardino Luini (1481-1532), one of the greatest painters of his time, from the Leonardo school, was called to fresco the Shrine of Our Lady of Miracles in Saronno, between the wonderful works that he left us in the church, there is the Adoration of the Magi, that the painter intended to focus on the figure of the Virgin Mary. Once arrived in Saronno he took lodgings at the inn in the country and the chronicles say he was very impressed by the beauty of the tavern-keeper, who married young and was already a widow and knew immediately that this young woman could be his model to represent the Virgin Mary. The story tells that the tavern-keeper was very grateful for having chosen
the famous painter, so much to offer every day, throughout the period of his stay in Saronno, an invigorating drink, an infusion of herbs, bitter almonds, apricot kernels, sugar and grape distillate which was preparing for his clients. The painter, in his early forties, found the liquor to be extraordinary and commissioned se-
Gianandrea Rorato
veral bottles for themselves and at the same time, staying for several days in front of that beautiful woman, while he painted the Adoration of the Magi, he fell in love with her. Of these facts, the story does not mention greater, committed rather to exalt , and rightly so, the skill of the great Lombard painter who left wonderful works in Milan and elsewhere. (This period is dedicated to Bernardino Luini Show in Palazzo Reale in Milan , which is open until January, 1 2014). But, fortunately for us, in addition to the greater story, there is also a minor story, thanks to which we know the place exactly where he was born Amaretto di Saronno, that is the tavern owned by the woman who became his model for the image of the Blessed Virgin Mary in the beautiful fresco Adoration of the Magi.
the bar corner
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an italian liqueur
in the course of time Other stories tell us that a family of bakers in Saronno, the Lazzaroni, in 1718, on the occasion of their visit to the city of the Archbishop of Milan, Cardinal Benedetto Odescalchi, prepared a sweet treat made of sugar, apricot kernels and egg white yolks that for its characteristic taste was called "cake". Very tasty cookie that was an unexpected success, so much that is still produced and distributed worldwide. At biscuit "cake", also produced by other companies and Italian pastry shops all over the boot, made with recipes very similar to each other in the mid-nineteenth century the same family Lazzaroni would have added a liquor having the same taste and also called this "amaretto, "indeed, not to be confused with other similar products, "Amaretto di Saronno."
The success of Amaretto, made from an infusion of herbs and bitter almonds - is therefore a distillation, but a liquor - led, just after the middle of the last century to a proliferation of similar preparations and in those decades each room was jam packed of "bitter", much in demand by consumers. That was really the golden age of Italian liqueur, after which a few "amaretto" have survived and continue to be required and, between them, a space of the niche has preser-
left
Bottle of Disaronno. under
Bernardino Luini Sposalizio Vergine Saronno. Lazzaroni Company
ved the famous amaretto loved by the painter of Varese . One of the essential features, or even the most important of amaretto is to be produced with the use of bitter almonds, though, in the second half of the last century, other manufacturers have preferred to use instead of almond oil, apricot kernels . We wish to end our story with a curiosity: macaroons are also produced in Germany and back in Mexico, where it is called" Amaretto de Sabroso".
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THE COFFEE
Dr. Eliana Cossio, Phd www.innofoodsolutions.com www.greentideimport.com
My
“coffee experience” in Brazil
A long and fascinating journey of study in the land of coffee
I
lived my first coffee experience in Brazil, in the state of Bahia, where I lived for four months in a ranch nestled in the coffee plantations.
I went to Brazil during my PhD to collect the coffee that I would use later for my physical-chemical analyzes and to study on the spot the critical points in the supply chain of green coffee.
Brazil is the biggest producer and exporter of coffee, Arabica mainly, but there is also a percentage of Canephora also called Coffea Robusta.
Tâ&#x20AC;&#x160;
he plantations in this state are vast expanses of neat rows of tall plants up to two meters, which can visually remember our vineyards.
Unlike the other producing countries of Central and South America, where the plantations are located on the ridges of the mountains sheltered from the hot tropical sun by majestic trees, generally in Brazil Coffee is grown without shelter so our eyes stretches as far as the eye can see.
W
ith this configuration of the terrain , it is possible to mechanize the harvest of coffee with huge machines that shake the plant and they drop the cherries then processed according to the methods natural , washed and semi- washed we already know.
O
This allows to obtain very high production yields, compared to manual collection, although at the expense of quality: cherries, in fact, are collected all together regardless of the point of ripeness of each cherry.
f course, after a careful selection takes place : the ripe cherries that originate the best coffees will be exported while those of lesser quality will be directed to the domestic market for the famous cafezinho, which is often offered for free in the boutiques and even at petrol stations.
H
owever a part of the harvest is done manually, thanks for temporary workers who move from one ranch to another to collect coffee. Whole families in this time of year, which can last a few months, staying in homes that fazenderos reserve them.
Brazil is also one of the greatest coffee consumer in the world!
The experience on the ranch just during the collection period was for me the knowledge of a true part of Brazil and sharing most awaited time of year, the result of a year of plant care, pest control, solution to the potential problems related to the lack of rain, the investment of money and time on the part of the owners of the plantations.
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nov. 2012 2014
pizza and e pasta pasta italiana italian
THE COFFEE
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t was my first contact with a real passion for a product from a plantation in a remote and often unknown can get to the most prestigious European restaurants and bars giving joy and pride for the hard work done throughout the year. Unfortunately, the Brazil of the myriad flavors and colors of nature so rich and similar to his native Africa - before the drift of continents, Africa and Brazil were one - is also characterized by reality difficult to digest.
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he owners of the ranch, and I their host, were guarded and protected night and day, the ranch, the home of the landowners and their families, has high walls and electrified an armed guard protects people and things with weapons that do not wants to be accustomed to seeing.
The trucks full of coffee carrying this "green gold" from the plantations to the drying fields of are often attacked by real bandits and even the traffic lights, at night, are ignored to avoid any delays that may facilitate the attacks .
B
ut at the same time, Brazil introduced me to people with a deep passion for coffee, curious about their new technologies and methods to bring that to improve the quality of their production, people who welcomed me into their home as a child and taught true respect for nature in which we all live, humble people with a big heart and great generosity, people who despite living in difficult realities choose to be actively responsible for rural communities their neighbors.
M
y first coffee experience, then, was the first breath of what would become for me not just a job but a passion, but also the respect of a people and a land of traditions associated with the coffee that has been handed down to generation in harmony with nature, animals and the people who make Brazil the most famous and celebrated actor in this field.
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Kitchen equipment must be the finest available... And that kitchen equipment will invariably come from Italy. It will come as no surprise, therefore, that the key piece of kitchen equipment required to produce one of Italy’s most famous exports, pizza, can be sourced in the municipality of Bozzolo, about 110 km southeast of Milan. The company in question is OEM Ovens which, for the past 40 years, has been designing and manufacturing pizza ovens for discerning restaurants, pizzerias, cafes and hotels throughout Europe, Africa and the Middle East. OEM Ovens continues to innovate in order to provide more value to more people in more places. At the present time there is much excitement concerning two of its most recent product launches – Optymo and Voltaire. Optymo is a new line of modular electric ovens designed to fit in a kitchen’s specific characteristics and productivity requirements, whilst the Voltaire is a single chamber oven that functions with every type of gas, making pizzas as crispy as if they were baked in a wood oven, but without the risk of microorganisms, burning and excess humidity. What’s more, the baking chamber will amaze you with its efficiency, and this is a vitally important factor, “Buying a cheap oven is false economy for the simple reason that they use considerably more power. In four years, what you save in the initial outlay you pay out in energy bills.” But if you’re still throwing you’re money away, don’t worry. As Italian movie legend Sophia Loren said: “Mistakes are part of the dues one pays for a full life time”.
OPTYMO ELECTRIC OVEN
oem
Excerpt from - Al Halabi editorial Dubai -
VOLTAIRE GAS OVEN
- AL I S p a - V i a l e L o m b a r d i a , 3 3 - 4 6 0 1 2 B o z z o l o , ( M N ) I t a l y Te l . + 3 9 0 3 7 6 9 1 0 5 1 1 - F a x + 3 9 0 3 7 6 9 2 0 7 5 4 info@oemali.com - www.oemali.com
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2014
pizza e pasta italiana
CERTIFICATE N° IT 11/0050
Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli… Italian School of Pizza, operating in Italy since 1988 and internationally recognized as a leader in the training of master pizza makers, it has strived for the quality certification UNI EN ISO 9001:2008 with Sgs - Accredia, it is an ideal partner to create professional courses designed to train future professionals in the world of pizza. It gives pizza students all the necessary bases for the production of quality pizzas: the courses are held in all major Italian cities and in several locations abroad. The profession of pizza is a profession that knows no boundaries and knows no crisis. Learning a profession such as that of pizza maker allows, without fear of contradiction, to acquire knowledge in the restaurant world, it gives the opportunity to pursue a career as well as an economically very profitable business to provide an outlet for their lives. Many of our students also choose to attend the School to make a change in their professional lives, passing to a job that allows to manage one’s life with success. Given the recent downturn in employment in our country, these courses seem to be particularly suitable for those who have lost their jobs and want a stable and a safe life anywhere. The Italian pizza makers are required everywhere, and a it is increasingly important that they take their job with great professionality, consisting of a solid theoretical basis and practical in dealing with this beautiful craft.
The instructors in our schools are all professionals who have received the prestigious title of Master Instructor, after following all courses of specialization required; this is a prerequisite for admission to master classes and later on for teaching.
Since 2011, the Italian Pizza School has been recognized as eligible for the certification UNI EN ISO 9001 - 2008.
Our schools are the ideal partner for those, institutions or individuals, who want to organize courses for pizza makers. The courses offered by the Italian School of Pizza are divided into two categories: basic courses structured for those who want to learn the craft and systematize their knowledge and specialization courses, dedicated to those who already have a solid theoretical and practical bases and want to improve only some skills. Furthermore, a professional back up service is available both in Italy and abroad, in terms of dough mixes and specific techniques and the commercial management of a restaurant/pizzeria (from recipes to start up). The first level courses offered by the italian school of pizza are designed in 40 hours of “full immersion” , divided into five days of eight hours or 4 hours per day in ten days, from monday to friday. On the website and magazine www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it and on the magazine Pizza e Pasta Italiana the phone numbers of the national headquarters of Caorle providing guidance for all locations.
SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI Via Sansonessa, 49 30021 Caorle (Venice) Tel.: 0039 (0)421-83.148 Fax.: 0039 (0)421-81007 info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it webmaster@pizzanew.it www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it
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and its courses The basic course lasts 40 hours, divided into 15 hours of theory and the remainder of practice. There are two basic types of courses: the ordinary (10 days of class) and intensive (5 days of lessons).
Theory - main topics: • Introduction on cereals, wheat study in detail (structure, kernel) • Knowledge of flour quality, protein, gluten mesh, W, P / L • Breakdown of starch by enzymes • Recipe for the classic pizza dough • Study in detail of the yeast morphology, functions, role in the dough, type in the market • Knowledge of organoleptic, bacteriological and chemical water requirements • Knowledge of salt, type in the market, the pros and cons for the use in the dough • Knowledge of malt, barley structure, processing, statement production.
Practice: • Presentation of equipment in the school and their operation • Production of a mixture of the first test by the instructor • Creation of different types of dough: direct, indirect, poolish, soya • Preparation of dough balls • Spreading the dough balls • Topping Pizza • Cooking pizza both in an electric oven and in a wood-fire oven • Final presentation of pizza
During the last day of class it will be held the final exam, students will answer questions about the program carried out during the lessons of theory with regard to the educational sector, will then roll, stuff and cook a pizza by virtue of having acquired the necessary foundations to the profession of pizza. After the examination we will be delivering the certificates of participation. It will be the teacher at its discretion to determine whether the student has successfully passed the course, otherwise the student described above may re-attend the course free of charge in the same or in another place.
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lug — ago 2012 2014
pizza e pasta italiana
SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI CERTIFICATE N° IT 11/0050
Headquarters abroad: U.S.A. San Francisco New York ———————
CAORLE (Ve) Main Headquarters
ALESSANDRIA Momperone ——————————— BARI Bitonto ——————————— BELLUNO c/o Ass. Tec Attrezzature ——————————— BENEVENTO ——————————— BRESCIA c/o Forni Ceky ———————————
JAPAN Tokyo ———————
FRANCE Lione Lille Chalone sur Saone Paris Chamonix Mont Blanc La Chapelle sur Erdre ———————
AUSTRALIA Sidney Melbourne ———————
Headquarters in Italy: CAGLIARI S. Sperate ——————————— COMO Turate ——————————— FLORENCE Reggello c/o Forni Valoriani ——————————— LECCE c/o Mario Pensa Arredamenti ——————————— MASSA CARRARA ———————————
MILAN ——————————— MODENA c/o Forni Pavesi Modena ——————————— ROME ——————————— ROME Ostia ——————————— SALERNO Caselle in Pittari ———————————
Collaborations: MANTOVA c/o Sanfelici Conserve ———————
Partners:
TERRACINA Fondi ——————————— TURIN ——————————— VERONA c/o Zanolli Forni ——————————— VIAREGGIO ——————————— VICENZA ——————————— VIESTE ———————————
BREAD, PASTA, PIZZA
THE GOOD ITALIAN FLOURS
GMI, the leading Italian milling group, brings you the Frumenta line: a range of top-quality flours for catering professionals and artisan bakers who are well aware of just how important it is to use quality raw materials when creating traditional Italian products. the prime ingredient GRANDI MOLINI ITALIANI SPA Head Office - Italy - 45100 Rovigo - Via Aldo Moro, 6 - Ph. +39 0425 209111 - info@grandimolini.it