Planet V&S 62 - The gallery

Lifestyle magazine OLD VINTAGES ADVENTURE AT RAPHAËL ISSAN STRUTS ITS STUFF TASTING THE SOMMELIER’S SECRET LA PART DES ANGES www.planet-vs.com

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GUY SAVOY Sponsor of “La Part des Anges” 2016 “By its color, its odor, its texture, its flavor, Cognac is, for me, a total expression of beauty in an area which is dear me: the art of fine living!”

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h e a d l i n e s

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Jean-François SCHERPEREEL Alain AVIOTTE

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INTERVIEW

001 OLD VINTAGES [ Don’t hesitate to decant them! ] Born into the fifth generation of a Bordeaux wine-producing family, Aymeric de Clouet is the only expert to the Paris Court of Appeal for wine, notably counterfeit bottles of fine wines. Impervious to styles or labels, his opinion can sometimes be explosive. Observe.

“I

recently lost my temper at an article by a sommelier who claimed that 1990 was an old vintage and therefore should not be decanted.

Not only can 1990 not be classed as an old vintage, but there are other older vintages that absolutely must be decanted.

I feel a great sadness for all those attentive producers, all those people who carefully preserve wine only to see years of effort destroyed by ignorance. Yes, old wines need to be decanted, even more so than young wines.

It’s easy: open a bottle, decant it and then open another bottle of the same wine two hours later, just before dinner. Any Bordeaux, 1928, 1945, 1990, from any region (Médoc, Graves, Saint-Emilion ... and of course Sauternes). Sometimes even a mediocre vintage such as a 1973 may prove worthy with a bit of aeration.

wish to avoid the massacre of old wines in future: do not listen to the doom prophets of today and try it for yourself. Just leave the bottle standing for at least four hours (preferably from the day before), then open and decant it at least two hours before service, lighting the candles or turning on the electric light.

AYMERIC DE CLOUET He has conducted some of the finest auctions in recent years: the cellar at the Cave de la Tour d’Argent, that of Alain Delon and Matignon, among many others. www.de-clouet.com

I can no longer count the number of older vintages I have tasted, but it is more than three thousand. The number that have disappointed me after decanting is exactly four, all of them 1978s.

I do not wish to solve the mystery of the ‘78s, but I do

If the cork is recalcitrant, the wine can be filtered using a silk or paper filter.

After two hours, we find that the wine has lost its unpleasant aromas, it has become fresh and balanced, a far cry from the way it tasted when first opened.

Last bit of advice: only transport old wines that are decanted or leave them to stand for more a month.”

Any Bordeaux, 1928, 1945, 1990, from any region (Médoc, Graves, Saint-Emilion ... and of course Sauternes).

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AUCTIONS

002 LA PART DES ANGES [ 10th edition ]

The tenth edition of “La Part des Anges” will take place in France on Thursday September 22, 2016. This prestigious charity auction evening will feature high-end cognacs, twenty-four superb carafes and blends donated by cognac houses.

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"В 2016 году аукцион la Part des anges проводится в 10-ый раз. Этот вечер эмблематическое мероприятие отрасли cognac, является выражением коллективной щедрости участников и коллекционеров со всего мира. С 2006 года наш аукцион эксклюзивной продукции cognac, предоставляемой торговыми марками, позволил поддержать более пятнадцати общественных проектов в сфере занятости, образования, защиты исторического и культурного наследия и социальной проблематики. Мы благодарим торговые дома, виноградарей, винокуров собственной продукции и мастеров перегонки спирта, а также бочаров и стекольщиков за преданность нашему делу. Мы благодарим покупателей и коллекционеров за страсть к напитку и поддержку, которую вы оказываете нам все эти годы. Мы приглашаем всех на встречу 22 сентября и призываем продолжить этот порыв коллективного великодушия и мобилизовать все силы в

пользу ассоциации apprentis d’auteuil, поддерживаемой нашим покровителем Ги Савуа, поваром с несколькими звездами Мишлен. В возрасте 10 лет продукция cognac вступает в новый этап своего созревания. Теряя постепенно свою молодость, он раскрывает новые ароматы. То же самое и с аукционом la Part des anges: в этот десятый раз продажа будет осуществляться департаментом вин и спиртных напитков престижного аукционного дома artcurial. Это партнерство позволит привлечь новую публику и приобрести новые масштабы. В этом каталоге вы познакомитесь с эксклюзивными графинами и ассамбляжами 24 домов cognac, выступивших в качестве дарителей. Мы желаем вам новых открытий и прекрасного времяпрепровождения на "la Part des anges" 2016!"

""天使之享" 慈善晚会（la Part des anges）将于2016年堂 堂迈入第十年。这项cognac 干邑白兰地酒业的标志性 盛典，是全球干邑收藏家及 业界人士慷慨义行的绝佳展 现。自2006年起，由各大品 牌馈赠的顶级干邑白兰地拍 卖所得经费，已经成功赞助 了十五个协会的计划，涵盖 就业、教育、文化资产保护 与社会救助等领域。 大宗交易商、葡萄园主、 酿酒者、酒桶制造商、玻璃 容器厂商…… 我们对贵方始 终不渝的投入参与表示诚挚 谢意。 感谢各方买家和收藏家这 些年来的热情支持。敬邀各 位于今年9月22日齐聚一堂， 再尽乐善好施之义，为法国 星级厨师吉。萨瓦（Guy Savoy）代言的协会慷慨解囊。 陈酿十年的干邑白兰地开 始步入其陈化期的崭新阶 段。随着岁月，逐渐散发令 人 耳 目 一 新 的 芬 芳 。 "天 使 之享" 慈善晚会（la Part des anges）也是如此：值此第十 届盛会，将由名声显赫的艾 德拍卖公司（artcurial）旗下 的葡萄酒与烈酒部将为我们 的竞拍活动执槌。这项合作

将能吸引新来宾到场，打开 一片新天地。 本产品目录中罗列了来自 24家干邑厂商大方馈赠，以 独特的用心制作的长颈瓶装 白兰地。祝浏览愉快，特祝 2016年 "天使之享" 慈善晚会 圆满成功！"

GUY SAVOY Sponsor of “La Part des Anges” 2016 “By its color, its odor, its texture, its flavor, Cognac is, for me, a total expression of beauty in an area which is dear me: the art of fine living!”.

Жан-Бернар де Ларкье, президент bNic Катрин Ле Паж, директор bNic

22 septembre 2016 21h. Cognac

EN COLLABORATION AVEC RTCURIAL

cognac干邑行业协会（bNic） 主席 Jean-bernard de larquier cognac干邑行业协会（bNic） 执行长 catherine le Page

La Part des Anges

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o mark this anniversary, the gala evening organized by the Interprofession du Cognac (the National Cognac Board) will provide a unique setting in the heart of Cognac, on the banks of the Charente. This charity auction will be, for the first time, organized in collaboration with Artcurial auction house. Collectors from all over the world will participate in this prestigious charity event.

This edition will be sponsored by the multi-starred chef Guy Savoy, one of the world’s best renowned French chefs. The funds collected at the auction will go to the Fondation Apprentis d’Auteuil (Apprentices of Auteuil) which has been committed to young people and underprivileged families for 150 years. We will reveal some of the twenty-four carafes of cognac which will accompany the work of Jean-Michel Jobit.

Practical information • Date: Thursday, September 22, 2016 9:00pm • Auctioneer: Hervé Poulain • Experts: Laurie Matheson and Luc Dabadie • Tel.: +33 (0)1 42 99 16 33 / 16 34 vins@artcurial.com

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AUCTIONS

AN EXCEPTIONAL BLEND This year, Yann Fillioux, seventh generation of Master Blender, identified a handful of eaux-de-vie at the peak of their expression.

Now, he is offering us the privilege of extracting a tiny amount in order to create an exceptional blend before they are transferred into demijohns. This timeless cognac of a remarkable intensity, is the absolute reflection of the Hennessy savoirfaire.

HENNESSY Edition Particulière Eaux-de-vie from the “chai du Fondateur”, a centenary winery. An exceptional unique blend from tierçons and then transferred into demijohns. (40% vol., 100 cl) About $24,300 Starting price

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AUCTIONS

CANNES FILM FESTIVAL In 2015, Rémy Martin celebrated its close link with cinema with a sumptuous limited edition of its XO “Extra Old” cognac: as though immersed in a bath of gold just for a moment, the iconic carafe was adorned in dazzling gold, and framed with two thin rolls of film. An evocation of the refinement and elegance of its eaux-de-vie and the Frenchstyle prestige of the Cannes Film Festival and its 68th edition. The jeroboam of this limited edition was signed by the members of the Film Festival Jury.

RÉMY MARTIN XO - Limited edition 2015 The buyer of this lot will also be treated to a twenty-four hour experience at the 2017 Cannes Film Festival. A golden bottle, signed by the Jury of the 2015 Cannes Film Festival. A one-off. (40% vol., 3 l) About $1,100

Starting price

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AUCTIONS

MARTELL Edouard 1920 Grande Champagne bottled straight from the cask, non-chill filtered. A tribute to Edouard Martell. Prestige case. First-ever edition. (48.8 % vol., 70 cl) About $12,000

EXCLUSIVE EDITION The House of Martell presents “Édouard” in tribute to Édouard Martell, who died in 1920. The bottle contains an extremely rare eau-de-vie not previously released, a Grande Champagne cognac from 1920. The presentation case accompanying this eau-de-vie is a unique, exclusive design made by the Ateliers Drevelle. The cognac is presented in an elegant crystal decanter by Baccarat, designed exclusively for the Martell House in 1954.

Starting price

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AUCTIONS

HARDY L’été Grande Champagne, blended from the personal reserve of Armand Hardy, dating back to the interwar period. Edition No.000/400.

Prestige case. (41 % vol., 75 cl) About $8,250

Starting price

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FOUR SEASONS Within the Four Seasons Collection, the House of Hardy unveils its second creation, “Summer”. This numbered 000/400 decanter, reserved for the “Part des Anges” auction, is a blend of Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie.

Their nose of honey and apricot added to an exceptional length on the palate, are a true tribute to the Maison Lalique artwork which decanter sublimes this rare and precious marriage.

AUCTIONS

TRADITION & HUMANISM The Frapin family has been established since 1270 in the very heart of the Grande Champagne area, the Premier Cru of Cognac on a domain lately increased to 240 hectares. François Rabelais, son of Anne Catherine Frapin, Renaissance erudite and humanist but also lover of good food and wines, has brilliantly celebrated the French art of living. Frapin has paid tribute to this famous ancestor with the creation of its prestigious “Cuvée Rabelais”. An unique Cognac reveals a sumptuous bouquet and complex aromas, blend of very old Grande Champagne.

FRAPIN La cuvée François Rabelais n°592 Blend of three aged Grande Champagne. An original carafe design inspired by the pocket watches of our ancestors, made of fine laced pewter and 24-carat gold plated. Presented as a pendulum suspended from a fine golden frame. (40% vol., 70 cl) About $6,000 Starting price

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AUCTIONS

GUARDED TREASURES For this event, Anne Sarteaux, Meukow Cognac’s Cellar Master, selected cognacs of Grande and Petite Champagne among the treasures which have been preciously kept in the Paradis cellar for several generations. Illustration of a great cognac, this Fine Champagne develops complex and powerful aromas, flavours of great suppleness and an aromatic length evolving towards a subtil rancio.

MEUKOW EternitY A blend of Grande and Petite Champagne from the Paradis cellar. A blown glass bottle inspired by the topettes of yesteryear created

by Philippe Seys. A one-off. (40% vol., 70 cl) About $6,600

Starting price

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AUCTIONS

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HINE. Millésime 1916 As if thumbing its nose at the passing time, Maison Hine adorns this 1916 vintage with a contemporary work of American James Viscardi. Winner of the Hine Award in the London Royal College of Art section in 2011.

(40% vol., 70 cl) About $7,740 (Starting price) 2

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LOUIS ROYER. Eloge A unique product, perfectly balanced and nuanced with a fusion of fruity, floral, spiced and woody notes. Grande Champagne from the Paradis cellar. Crystal carafe, unique item.

(40% vol., 70 cl) About $2,755 (Starting price) 3

COGNAC RENAULT “HOURGLASS” Âge du Temps Grande Champagne distilled in 1950, barrelaged for 60 years, preserved since 2010 in a demijohn. An hourglass-shaped bottle showcased in an oak wood base. First-ever edition No.1/7. (41.2 % vol., 70 cl) About $4,400 (Starting price) 4

GODET. Origine 45-year-old blend of Grande Champagne.

3-liter carafe held in an original copper sculpture by the artist Romain de Sousa.

Copper handle pipette for serving the cognac.

(40% vol., 3 l) About $5,500 (Starting price)

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AUCTIONS

ABK6.

“Spiritu ” Fins Bois from the early twentieth century, single cask from the Paradis Cellar. Creation of an unprecedented work by Céline Delcourt and Maria Perafan. (43.80 % vol., 70 cl) About $6,600* Ch

оду аукцион la es проводится Этот вечер еское мероприятие gnac, является м коллективной частников и еров со всего мира. а наш аукцион ой продукции доставляемой марками, позволил более пятнадцати ых проектов в сфере образования, защиты ого и культурного социальной ки. дарим торговые радарей, винокуров й продукции и регонки спирта, а ов и стекольщиков сть нашему делу. дарим покупателей неров за страсть к оддержку, которую те нам все эти годы. шаем всех на встречу я и призываем этот порыв ого великодушия вать все силы в

пользу ассоциации apprentis d’auteuil, поддерживаемой нашим покровителем Ги Савуа, поваром с несколькими звездами Мишлен. В возрасте 10 лет продукция cognac вступает в новый этап своего созревания. Теряя постепенно свою молодость, он раскрывает новые ароматы. То же самое и с аукционом la Part des anges: в этот десятый раз продажа будет осуществляться департаментом вин и спиртных напитков престижного аукционного дома artcurial. Это партнерство позволит привлечь новую публику и приобрести новые масштабы. В этом каталоге вы познакомитесь с эксклюзивными графинами и ассамбляжами 24 домов cognac, выступивших в качестве дарителей. Мы желаем вам новых открытий и прекрасного времяпрепровождения на "la Part des anges" 2016!" Жан-Бернар де Ларкье, президент bNic Катрин Ле Паж, директор bNic

""天使之享" 慈善晚会（la Part des anges）将于2016年堂 堂迈入第十年。这项cognac 干邑白兰地酒业的标志性 盛典，是全球干邑收藏家及 业界人士慷慨义行的绝佳展 现。自2006年起，由各大品 牌馈赠的顶级干邑白兰地拍 卖所得经费，已经成功赞助 了十五个协会的计划，涵盖 就业、教育、文化资产保护 与社会救助等领域。 大宗交易商、葡萄园主、 酿酒者、酒桶制造商、玻璃 容器厂商…… 我们对贵方始 终不渝的投入参与表示诚挚 谢意。 感谢各方买家和收藏家这 些年来的热情支持。敬邀各 位于今年9月22日齐聚一堂， 再尽乐善好施之义，为法国 星级厨师吉。萨瓦（Guy Savoy）代言的协会慷慨解囊。 陈酿十年的干邑白兰地开 始步入其陈化期的崭新阶 段。随着岁月，逐渐散发令 人 耳 目 一 新 的 芬 芳 。 "天 使 之享" 慈善晚会（la Part des anges）也是如此：值此第十 届盛会，将由名声显赫的艾 德拍卖公司（artcurial）旗下 的葡萄酒与烈酒部将为我们 的竞拍活动执槌。这项合作

将能吸引新来宾到场，打开 一片新天地。 本产品目录中罗列了来自 24家干邑厂商大方馈赠，以 独特的用心制作的长颈瓶装 白兰地。祝浏览愉快，特祝 2016年 "天使之享" 慈善晚会 圆满成功！" cognac干邑行业协会（bNic） 主席 Jean-bernard de larquier cognac干邑行业协会（bNic） 执行长 catherine le Page

CHÂTEAU DE COGNAC François 1er Grande Champagne. Porcelain Francois 1 bust-shaped carafe from Limoges.

(40% vol., 70 cl) About $1,320*

22 septembre 2016 21h. Cognac

EN COLLABORATION AVEC RTCURIAL

La Part des Anges

BACHE-GABRIELSEN Apotek This “cognatheque” contains thirty flasks of eaux-de-vie, from all the growing districts of the Cognac region.

A one-off. (49 % vol., 3 l) About $2,000*

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CHÂTEAU MONTIFAUD 150th anniversary Exceptional blend from Paradis, a marriage of 6 generations. Carafe from Sèvres, a one-off. (43.6 % vol., 70 cl) About $1,650* COURVOISIER. Extrait n°1 Hors d’Âge Grande Champagne. Carafe carafe, diamond-shaped stopper. A oneoff. (42.50 % vol., 70 cl) About $8,800*

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DELAMAIN. Millésimes Grande Champagne. Crystal carafe in a gift box, one-off. (40% vol., 70 cl) About $3,315*

GAUTIER Les Origines : La vigne, Le bois, L’eau A blend of rare eaux-de-vie. Triptyque of carafes displayed on a sculpture.

(41.5% vol., 3 x 70 cl) About $2,755*

FERRAND Mémoires. Millésime 1969 An exceptional eau-de-vie. Leatherlined mahogany box, A one-off.

(42% vol., 80 cl) About $2,200* MERLET Le Fil - XXe siécle Blend of Fins Bois eaux-de-vie produced over three generations and three Hors d’Âge cognacs. A one-ff.

(40% vol. 3 l) About $2,200* NORMANDIN MERCIER Essentiel Grande Champagne. Stainless steel and oak box, full-grain calf leather upholstery. (42 % vol., 100 cl) About $3,340*

J. DUPONT COGNAC. Art de Vie Grande Champagne. A crystal carafe upon a stand covered in a 24-carat gold leaf gilding. A one-off. (42 % vol., 50 cl) About $2,755

TIFFON. Golden Crystal Dragon Hors d’Âge. Mahogany cigar box made

by Thierry Drevelle. (40% vol., 75 cl) About $2,300*

LÉOPOLD GOURMEL Crystal carafe, box, leather upholstering, lacquered. (40% vol., 70 cl) About $2,000*

FRANÇOIS VOYER. Lot N°6 Grande Champagne. Carafe and prestige gift box. A one-ff.

(45% vol. 70 cl) About $2,200* * Starting price

COLLECTOR

003 A COGNAC ENCYCLOPEDIA [ A fan’s dream ] Sadko Mytnik, a Slovak living with his family in Košice, Slovakia, is a well-informed cognac collector. Founder of the International Cognac Association” and “United Cognac Bottle Bank”, he is currently working on creating a cognac encyclopedia.

Tell us a little bit about You also intend to create a museum? your project.

I actually created The Cognac Embassy in Košice, The “Alphabetic Encyclopedia Cognac” lists more a real cognac embassy to house my collection of than 300 cognac producers in a large format, cognacs, several thousand bottles including some glossy publication that that date back to the end has more than 800 pages. of the 19th century and It is intended to be a real alone could fill the pages of educational tool for the France’s history.

World Cognac Institute.

It will be written in English You are also working but will also be translated on compiling an X.O. into other languages. It will collection ? serve as an education aid That is correct. This colfor the institutions under lection comprises 300 the A.E.H.T. (European high-quality X.O. cognacs Association of Hotel and from cognac houses that Tourism Schools). It will are also listed in the cognac act as the link between encyclopedia. Each bottle the worlds of luxury prowill be signed by the products and cognac. It will ducer and accompanied by mainly focus on the large a certificate. This collection cities. Košice and its will enable enthusiasts to Mayor, Richard Rasi, are explore and teste the large the first to put their trust palette of cognacs that are in us. My goal is to eduproduced. It will be acAlphabetic Encyclopedia cate the younger generations companied by an auction with a of Cognac: $388 about cognac, whether they be starting price of $166,140. But I’ll barmen or simply enthusiasts. tell you more about that later on...

Custom editions: from 1000 copies

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EXPERIENCE

004 ADVENTURE AT RAPHAËL [ Clos Lanson 2006 ] Each summer, the hotel Raphaël throws open its terrace doors and provides a breathtaking view over Paris. Lanson House is known for its unique experience. Its magic is just as palpable at lunch as it is at dinner.

“T

he view of the Arc de Triomphe is impressive. The angle is extraordinary”… Christian Gomez never tires of the exceptional view that he sees every day. The head of the bars at Raphaël and his team won back the planted and flowered terrace, which only opens on sunny days.

Its somewhere that Paris’ lovers flock to in droves for the unique experience. Indeed, when summer arrives, regulars and connoisseurs alike look up to the 7th floor, hoping to find a place on the beautiful terrace which is open from May to September.

It has a bar with room for 50 and a restaurant that seats 35. “It has a 360-degree view, The Arc de Triomphe is within reach and the Eiffel Tower stands out against the sky during the day and sparkles at night ... It is a magical place,” says Christian Gomez enthusiastically.

This summer, Lanson house is dedicated to exploring its best wines, including the Clos Lanson.

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This one-hectare Champagne plot is surrounded by high protective walls dating back to the 18th century, and faces the Reims Cathedral.

Our top pick, the Clos Lanson 2006, is a champagne has all the attributes of a great chardonnay. It has benefited from a controlled ageing in wood barrels and optimal development in the cellars of the House. On tasting, the wine is a light golden color crowned with a string of fine bubbles. The delicately woody aromas express a wide range, where ripe fruit blends with buttery notes, as well as vanilla, pastry, and hazelnut, punctuated with a touch of smokiness. On the palate, the entry is fleshy and silky, developing fruity, toasty notes that are rich and persistent. The long and precise saline finish reveals a noble origin.

To find out more: laterrasse@raphael.com, www.lanson.com

EXPERIENCE

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UNUSUAL

005 THE BUZZING OF BEES [ The hives at château Pavie ] All Bordeaux wine fans know château Pavie, the 1st Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé “A”.

This château has made remarkable strides since 1998 when it was taken over by Chantal and Gérard Perse.

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ecently, in 2013, one year after achieving its new classification, the buildings were all fully refurbished by famous architect and designer Alberto Pinto. The luckiest among you will have had the chance to admire all of the stone and glass that extends over 91,493 square feet of terraces, in perfect symbiosis with the beautiful vineyard on the slopes of Château Pavie.

the efforts we have always made to practice sustainable agriculture. Bees are the mark of an environment’s quality. Moreover, I love honey. Today we have six hives at Pavie, which are cared for by professional beekeepers. The hives are kept on the edge of the plateau and populated by mild-mannered Buckfast bees, a crossbreed established by a monk at Devon Abbey!”

But did you know that Château Pavie also produces honey? The initiative is the brainchild of Gérard Perse, who was tired of hearing that viticulture was an unchecked source of pollution! As he says, “for a long time, some owners were not worried about the consequences of using pesticides”.

“We harvest them twice a year. The first produces around 100 kilos of acacia honey, which is a favorite of both mine and my grandkids. The second is “flowery”, usually quite a dark oak blossom”.

And to conclude: “I did of course analyze the honeys for discrepancies. These honeys have no traces of pesticides!”

And in fact “Putting hives on the property reflects

www.vignoblesperse.com

But did you know that Château Pavie also produces honey?

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UNUSUAL

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TASTING

006 A STAGING [ Endorsed by Jean d’Alos ] A magnificent tasting was held recently at cheesemaker Jean d’Alos in Bordeaux.

At this event, Clarence Grosdidier offered his guests a horizontal cheese tasting paired with great champagnes.

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o it was here, in its amazing maturing cellars, that one of France’s last great cheesemakers welcomed both renowned cheeses from the Marcel Petite producers and Philipponnat champagnes.

Clarence Grosdidier, owner of the Jean d’Alos cheese dairy - and also co-owner of the Château Saint-Pey, a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru - was in his element throughout the evening. But the evening was not about the Saint Emilion vintages but the bottles of Philipponnat champagne.

Enough to awaken the taste buds of the aficionados attending the event. Everything was “peppered” with advice and comments from Yannick Duffet, a Franche-Comté maturer and Alexandre Morin, a young Bordeaux sommelier.

In the end, there were five horizontal tastings from 2014 cheeses with different profiles, depending their origins or maturing, echoed in five champagnes from house Philipponnat, which was perfectly at ease during this exercise.

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The first to be tasted was a cheese from August 2014, a summer pasture milk from the Fruitière de Valoreille: “A very smooth paste with good acidity, rather flattering in aromas, with hints of almond, almost a little sweet on the finish, which is quite unusual,” said Yannick Duffet.

It was paired with a “1522” pink champagne, from the Philipponnat 2006 vintage.

The second marriage centered around a July 2014 cheese from Hôpitaux Vieux, which had a slight taste of leather.

It was paired with “Clos des Goisses” a Blanc de Noirs, 2007 vintage. “A more powerful champagne, which shines more for its vinous character than for its bubbles”, for the sommelier Alexandre Morin.

Third alliance, a cheese from Chapelle d’Huin, August 2014: “A great region where farmers still work to 2625 feet above sea level, as they did in the old days.” For this pairing, a blanc de blancs, again from Philipponnat.

The fourth alliance was a 2014 cheese

•••

TASTING

derived from Vieux Creneux, located 2953 feet above sea level and paired with a Philipponnat, blanc de blancs, 2006 vintage. An airy champagne, 100% chardonnay, which paired delightfully with a more plant-based cheese.

•••

Finally, the fifth alliance was an August 2014 cheese from Combe des Bois, paired with a Philipponnat, blanc de noirs, 2005 vintage that is “very complex, with a fleshiness that slightly softens the somewhat austere side of the cheese,” for the sommelier Alexandre Morin.

A STAGING ENDORSED BY JEAN D’ALOS

“ Through this horizontal tasting and the immense diversity of the cheeses, we see that cheese, like wine, is a living product,” said Clarence Grosdidier from Jean d’Alos at the end of the evening. And Yannick Duffet added, “Here we can see that at just 12 miles apart, there is a real diversity and that it is in the cellar that the real work is done by the cheesemaker.” www.philipponnat.com. www.fromages-jean-dalos.com

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NEWS

007 FROM THE WEB [ We’re talking about it ]

Discover our top picks in a selection of online news articles.

Overviews, tastings, trends, recommendations, etc.

PAUL HAGNAUER Communications consultant, model agency director. www.saintgeorgesdibry.com A key figure in the world of fashion in Paris, Paul Hagnauer has just endorsed a cuvee from Saint-Georges Ibry. “Michel and Marianne Cros produce high-quality wines at their lovely 19th century Languedoc estate. They agreed to use my name with their “Excellence” 2016 wine, available in red, white, and rosé. These fine wines are full of character and have been treated superbly. It is a tremendous pleasure for me.”

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PHILIPPE MASSOL Managing Director of La Cité du Vin www.laciteduvin.com

YOHAN AUBERT Co-owner of Vignobles Aubert www.aubert-vignobles.com

A hot spot for the wine civilization, La Cité du Vin, headed by Philippe Massol, has just opened in Bordeaux. The building was designed as a cultural entertainment site dedicated to wine as a universal and living cultural heritage. High tech, absolutely superb. 143,698 ft² divided over 10 levels, a restaurant with a panoramic view, 32,291 ft² of permanent pathways that house 120 audiovisual productions.

The staging is breathtaking.

For many years, the Aubert family has headed a vast vineyard, with Château La Couspaude (Saint-Émilion grand cru classé) as the flagship. The new generation at the helm, Yohan, Vanessa and Eloise, were interested in taking a fresh look at the 130 hectares of Château Saint-Antoine, designing a fun wine with a fruity focus. The result, “Héritage de la Couspaude”, a superior Bordeaux, which at $8 absolutely must be sampled.

NEWS

La Cité du Vin, headed by Philippe Massol, has just opened in Bordeaux.

FRÉDÉRIC LODÉON Godfather of Estivales de Musique en Médoc www.estivales-musique-medoc.com The 13th edition of the Estivales de Musique en Médoc takes the form of concerts played from châteaux to châteaux, all illuminated by the presence of young artists who have trained on major international stages. The festival’s inaugural concert takes place on July 1 in Château Lafon-Rochet, with the Toulouse Chamber Orchestra and the young Julien Martineau on the mandolin; the last, with Kotaro Fukuma on the piano, at Château d’Agassac on July 15.

JEAN-CHARLES CHAPUZET Historian, journalist and French writer www.editions-delcourt.fr Read volume 2 of the comic strip “Un mort dans l’arène” (A death in the arena), written by Jean-Charles Chapuzet, Corbeyran, and Luc Brahy. To sum up ... some cognacs are invaluable and the true connoisseurs can enjoy this niche market are rare. A boon for the investigator, for whom this skill is his main outlet. Our colleague, Jean-Charles, has also written a dozen books, and endorsed his second comic strip.

DAVID BOLZAN Managing Director of Vignobles Silvio Denz www.vignobles-silvio-denz.com Silvio Denz, owner of Vignobles Silvio Denz, which brings together the châteaux of Péby Faugéres, Faugéres, Cap de Faugéres and Rocheyron in Saint-Emilion, as well as Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey in Sauternes, announces the arrival of David Bolzan as Managing Director of Vignobles Silvio Denz.

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TIP

008 THE SOMMELIER’S SECRET [ Cristal Roederer 2007 ] For 140 years Roederer Cristal has been admired by lovers of great champagnes. The 2007 vintage is true to tradition. But here’s a secret to glorify its wealth.

L

ong live Tsar Alexander II! It is thanks to him that Louis Roederer has created an exceptional champagne, served in a clear crystal bottle. 140 years later, Cristal still draws admiration. And the 2007 vintage is true to the tradition of finesse and depth.

But it still transcends wealth. Frédéric Bouché, head sommelier of Assiette Champenoise, a 3-star Michelin restaurant near Reims, divulges one of his secrets ...

“Champagnes are often served fresh, “à la minute”. This happens with an ordinary brut. For “Cristal”, there’s a better way!

Like taking your time...”

Frédéric Bouché prepares the Cristal in the same way he would a fine wine, opening the bottle an hour before tasting.

Or “carafing” it. It should be served in a proper glass, large, but not too open.

So, for the lucky among you, if you want to order a 2007 Cristal in a restaurant, do not forget to order it at the very beginning of the meal. www.assiettechampenoise.com www.louis-roederer.com

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VINTAGE

LA VIE EN ROSE 009 [ Amour de Deutz 2006 ] The charming Champagne estate produces three prestige vintages among its range of eleven champagnes. The outcome is the Amour de Deutz 2006, now available in rosé. As beautiful to look at as it is to taste.

© Gilles de Beauchêne

W

hen he talks about his champagnes, President Fabrice Rosset uses two words with relish: “seduction” and “complicity”. Today, Deutz is one of the few estates to have three prestige vintages. The first took the name William, after the man who founded the label 176 years ago. The second is called “Amour” in reference to the emblem of the court of honor. Now there is a third, “Amour rosé” an offshoot of the second and developed in secret in the cellars for over eight years.

The new “Amour Rosé” prestige vintage seduces with its 2006 vintage and provides an incentive to find an accomplice to share that special moment.

This 2006 vintage is composed of 55% Pinot Noir from Ay, Verzenay et Bouzy and 45% Chardonnay from Avize, Chouilly and Villers-Marmery. The great balance in this wine is particularly noteworthy. It is also characterized by a great length on the palate. www.champagne-deutz.com

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DISCOVERY

010 “SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL” [ Langoa Barton ] Château Langoa Barton, 3rd Cru Classé de Médoc, is like a “secret garden” which was rediscovered during Bordeaux’s favorable years. The 2015 vintage offers us the pleasure of discovering this for ourselves.

A

lways regarded as the “little” brother of the famous Château Léoville-Barton, this 17-hectare property is very popular in England and remains relatively unobtrusive on the Bordeaux rankings.

Yet, apart from the size of two properties and a slight difference between vine populations, there is no reason why “Langoa” should not carry the same reputation.

The Barton family has always treated its two jewels with the same care and the 2015 vintage tasting notes are very respectable, among both the big Anglo-Saxon names and French tasting gurus.

The 2015 asserts its very Bordeaux, level, powerful, balanced, and delicious character. The prices reflect this. It is a good excuse to give it a prominent place in the cellar.

Antony Barton

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www.leoville-barton.com

WE’RE TALKING ABOUT IT

A MAKEOVER 011 [ For Henriot champagne ] From traditional to modern, Henriot Champagne, a 200-year-old Reims estate, has revamped all of its designs, strengthening the identity of each vintage. Effective.

P

roducing champagne for seven generations requires that tradition be respected. This does not prevent it adapting and evolving to a certain modernity.

The Reims Henriot estate proved this by asking designer Klaus Gräber to design a new look for all of its champagnes. Its mission statement? To get an “elegant and contemporary” result.

The result is rather successful. Now choosing “your” Henriot is a breeze thanks to the color code: silver white for “Blanc de blancs”; matt gold for “Sovereign Brut”; pink for “Rosé”; bronze for the “Brut 2006 vintage”.

Moreover, the “Henriot” name is better promoted, with explanatory texts in French and English. And of course, the container does not affect the content, which remains true to the expertise of this family estate committed to discreet luxury, quality and rarity. All this coupled with its unique aging process for its Chardonnays. www.champagne-henriot.com

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INTERVIEW

012 A NEW ERA [ At Pichon “Countess”? ] Following the recent presentation of the Bordeaux 2015 “primeurs”, we catch up with Nicolas Glumineau, head of Bordeaux estates of the Louis Roederer champagne house, which includes the Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2nd Pauillac grand cru classé.

Is the early release (primeurs) of the 2015 vintage heralding a new era in “Pichon”?

In 2013 and 2014, we refined the capabilities of the new winery and that of the vat. The transition between the two “Pichon” periods has accelerated with the 2015 vintage. We are much more precise. The winery enables us to differentiate the production of almost all of the plots, and thereby refine the final result... and we worked it rather well.

How do you see the potential of the property?

When I was recruited in 2012, I asked the winemaker to organize a tasting of vintages from 1970 to 2010. I pondered it at length, and I realized that the identity of “Pichon” was fully expressed in the 80’s.

What are the key elements of your “signature”?

A frame given by great cabernets, which allows us to combine these wines with “Pauillacs”, and a “flesh” that is a little pulpy, brought by the merlots, which gives it the look of Saint-Julien.

In other words, black fruits, graphite, cedar, and floral notes. This is what we find in 2015. This return to the future is implemented in the latest vintage. www.pichon-lalande.com

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TASTING

ISSAN STRUTS ITS STUFF 013 [ A second wine on the podium ] Like many second wines, the Blason d’Issan is made from young plots, most planted less than 20 years ago.

T

hus, when we talk about the Blason at Château d’Issan, we are referring to the second wine of this 3rd Grand Cru Classé that appeared on the market in 1995, which if left there, would not appear overtly sexy.

However, if we present this Blason as a nice success in 2015, which is the case - and comments from experts assert this sentiment - then it is necessary to reconsider the approach, as the château did.

Today, the great châteaux no longer speak of second wines as stooges to the first, but as a wine in its own right, which is obviously the case with Blason d’Issan: a little more flexible, modern, fleshy, and attractive than the first.

The Cabernet Sauvignons have been crucial to the quality of the final result. Here we have a delicious wine that speaks brilliantly of the Château d’Issan, but whose interest also lies in its “en primeur”, which is at such an attractive price that there is no hesitation in buying it.

Emmanuel Cruse

www.chateau-issan.com

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ZOOM

014 A NEW BOTTLE [ Cordon Rouge by Mumm ] To celebrate 140 years, the Mumm Cordon Rouge has been given a new bottle.

This “feathering” adds even more value to the precious beverage, developed by a cellar master who has fulfilled all of the expectations placed on him ten years ago.

T

he famous Mumm house is celebrating 140 years of the famous Cordon Rouge by wrapping it up in a brand new bottle. Designed by British designer Ross Lovegrove, this beautiful packaging differs from the classic champagne bottle.

It has a long narrow neck, and the red sash is actually incorporated into the glass.

Displaying real “technical prowess”, he had to create specific tools for the essential riddling and disgorging stages. This bottle is also designed to allow the wine to age well.

Made from 77 separately vinified crus, the Mumm Cordon Rouge was expertly assembled under the watchful eye of the cellar master Didier Mariotti (validating the expectations pinned on him by the Pernod-Ricard group when he was only 35 years old!). The Pinot Noir (45%) gives it the power, Chardonnay (30%) the finesse, and Pinot Meunier (25%) the roundness. www.mumm.com

Didier Mariotti

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ART

A SERIES OF PHOTOS 015 [ Taittinger Champagne ] The “Taittinger Collection” series is enriched by a bottle endorsed

by Sebastião Salgado, Brazilian photographer and defender of people and the environment.

I

t is impossible to remain unmoved by the work of Sebastião Salgado and his exciting life. This Brazilian septuagenarian was an internationally renowned economist before becoming a globetrotting photographer. He is interested in people, the environment and biodiversity, including the worrying growing imbalance ... “There is only one human race and one Earth.”

What the philosopher Edmund Husserl says is illustrated to perfection by Sebastião Salgado’s lifetime of photographs.

Géo magazine has dedicated an article to him and his wife Lelia, with whom he has undertaken a mammoth project: replanting a primary Atlantic forest on the estate bequeathed to him by his father in the province of Minas Gerais, Brazil.

Taittinger recently asked him to depict, in black and white, the recent “Collection” bottle from the Reims estate. The photo selected is a leopard drinking at the spring.

And the bottle contains a 2008 vintage that is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. www.taittinger.com

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VINEYARD

016 RONAN BY CLINET [ Or Clinet by Ronan? ] Is innovation second nature to Ronan Laborde, owner of Château Clinet, the great Bordeaux château in the heart of the Pomerol appellation?

V

ines have been present on the Château Clinet lands since the early 17th century and in the 18th century, wine production became the property’s sole activity. An unusual move at that time.

This particularism would push the different owners to have innovative visions.

From this point of view, the 80s are particularly memorable: the introduction of bold cultural practices, limitation of the productivity of the vine, and “overripe” grape harvesting, which all brought many rave reviews for the Château Clinet wines.

Ronan Laborde

After taking the reins in 2003, it is on these bases that Ronan Laborde works with great sensitivity and sticks as close as possible to the capacities of the vineyard, thereby maintaining the reputation of Château Clinet over time. The growing success of his latest creation, “Ronan by Clinet” a contemporary Bordeaux, added to the recent construction of a spectacular winery in the heart of Pomerol, affirms, if affirmation were needed, a real vision for the future. www.chateauclinet.com

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