Katowice In Your Pocket - November 2019 - February 2020 by Poland In Your Pocket

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Katowice City Guide

No. 38 November 2019 - February 2020

Winter in Silesia

p.8

Katowice Christmas Market

p.14

Nikiszowiec Christmas Fair

p.15

Q Hotel Katowice 1P

Foreword

Katowice

Feature Winter in Silesia p.8 Foreword Feature Winter in Silesia

Around Upper Silesia

‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail 48 Industrial Tourism 50 Auschwitz-Birkenau 54

Events 12 Arrival & Transport

Polish Facts & Language

Maps

City Map Katowice Centre Silesia Park Nikiszowiec

24 29 36 41

Katowice Sightseeing

26 Downtown Katowice 28 Cultural Zone 32 Southern Katowice 34 The Porcelain Factory 36 Silesia Park 36 Nikiszowiec 40

Activities & Experiences

Kids & Families

Cafés

Local Flavours Traditional Silesian Dishes Polish Alcohol

58 74

Restaurants

Nightlife

Shopping

Hotels

Index

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials App

Galeria Katowicka

3 rd ďŹ&#x201A;oor, mezzanine 3 maja 30, Katowice

+48 577 818 088

Galeria Katowicka 3 rd ďŹ&#x201A;oor, mezzanine 3 maja 30, Katowice

+48 577 818 088

Foreword Welcome to issue 38 of Katowice In Your Pocket – your guide to the city and greater Silesia! You’re lucky to be in the city at a special time of year, which allows you to experience the highlights of late autumn and winter! You may be here for business, but that certainly doesn’t need to stop you from enjoying the city and surrounding area. It’s getting colder, but rather than hibernate, there’s plenty of things to do here winter, find out more in our feature on p.8. If it does get a bit too cold for comfort, or heaven forbid the white stuff descends well before it’s welcome, there is a bounty of indoor activities (pp.44-47) and events to keep you entertained through the deepest darkest days. A visit to one of the region’s many museums is an absolute must and the first on your radar should be the Silesian Museum right in the heart of the cultural zone (p.32). If you play your cards right you can visit the museum by day and catch a concert at the world-class NOSPR symphony hall next door (p.33). You can find a full list of upcoming things to do in Katowice and other great Silesian venues in our events section (p.12). And last but not least, we’d be remiss if we didn’t namedrop the reason for the season and most festive holiday of them all: Christmas. Katowice will be presenting the traditional Christmas Fair on the Market Square (Rynek, p.28) in December, so don’t miss it! Seasons Greetings from all of us here at IYP! Andrew Elliott, who has close ties to Poland, has been living here since 2016 when he finally decided to make the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, food & drink, photography & videography! He even has a slight penchant for history.

COVER STORY Katowice from above looks amazing, especially with the skyline complemented by these murals found on the street art mecca ul. Mariacka Tylna (p.30). Photo: Przemysław Borsuk @Katowicezlotuptaka

PUBLISHER & STAFF Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 10,000 copies published 3 times per year Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Sales Consultant: Monika Szymanek (+48) 668 876 351 Events: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 87 94 94, Agata Janik, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz. Research: Dominika Sosnowska, Aleksandra Sosnowska, Patrycja Ples Layout & Maps: Marcin Jakubionek Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Szczyrk Mountain Resort in the Beskid Mountain Range. | Photo-ŚOT-Marek Hajkovsky

Winter in Silesia Summer is over, the stunning atmosphere of the golden Polish autumn is gradually coming to an end, and you may well be thinking to yourself, what on earth will winter bring to Katowice? Is it even worth visiting during the coldest time of the year? First thing’s first, it’s no surprise that the colour palettes make a drastic change from the jovial summer greens, picturesque autumnal shades of golden brown to the rather bleak winter grey. It can seem tough to enjoy anything here amidst such a lifeless colour scheme. But don’t let the book cover sway your decision, there’s plenty to see and do in Katowice, and of course, the surrounding Silesian region, whether it’s in the good ole outdoors, or indoors if the wind chill painfully freezes your face! 8

Winter in Silesia It’s our job to give you some of the best tips on how to make the most out of your visit to the Silesian region, whether you’re here for a short business trip or for a little bit longer to enjoy the sights. With all that in mind, let’s start with Katowice, gradually working our way through the Silesian Metropolis and beyond to the more rugged outdoor terrains to the north and south. KATOWICE Christmas is pretty big in Poland, and it’s taken quite seriously. Despite the creeping commercialisation of the holidays around the world, in Poland there’s still very much a strong sense of maintaining an age old family centred tradition. The centrepiece in Katowice for the festive season is always the Christmas Market (p.14) on the main market square (rynek, p.28) organised by the local authorities, which this year will run from 22 November – 23 December. Here you can buy some festive treats, traditional regional items and for the kids and kidults, there will be an ice rink available to swish and swoosh around in.

Aww, shucks, we all love Katowice.

Before the official market square Christmas Market arrives to the city centre, we recommend a visit to the former workers’ district of Nikiszowiec (p.40), a great attraction in itself, however, 04 December each year sees the observance of Barbórka, the local name for the feast day of St. Barbara, patron saint of miners, which always features a parade of miners dressed up in their ceremonial gear. Although observed across Poland, Nikiszowiec is in our opinion one of the best places to appreciate the celebration. Following Barbórka, from 05-08 December, Nikiszowiec will hold its own Christmas Fair (p.15), so check out how the locals approach Christmas. If the weather is cold and crisp, and if you’re lucky, snowy, then we fully recommend visiting some parks. Just south of the city centre (p.34), the Valley of Three Ponds is perfect, where you can walk around the well maintained paths and roads, getting away from the bustle of the city centre, feeling as though you’re in the middle of nowhere, when really, you’re still relatively close to the centre! If you’re here in January/February, you may be lucky enough to see the annual winter swimming events which take

Ogrodzieniec Castle in the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland

Photo: ŚOT

place. That’s right, in sub-zero temperatures, some people just can’t wait to go for a brisk swim in nothing more than their trunks! CHORZÓW Now this is the place to go all times of the year to the star attraction: Silesia Park (p.36). Here, you not only have the option of long picturesque walks, but the added benefit of seeing the park from above on the Elka Cableway - let’s call this a poor man’s ski lift... and on that note, should you be in the region and wish to go south of the city to the Beskid Mountain Range for some winter sports but may be looking to get some practice, or even skiing/snowboarding lessons beforehand, then Chorzów has the perfect solution an indoor ski centre, Freestyle Park (ul. Stalowa 25). This isn’t your typical ski centre though, in fact, it’s slightly strange as what they offer more or less resembles an oversized treadmill which can go up to speeds of 40 km/h (25 mph), and can accommodate two groups of two people at a time. Stay on the spot, curving from left to right without truly moving off! Lessons are also available for skiers and snowboarders, with all equipment provided.

GETTING THERE If you’re planning to stay in and around Katowice or go well beyond the city during your stay, travelling around on buses, trains and trams is fairly easy, however, it’s still always a good idea to plan your journey in advance, therefore, we recommend checking out our Useful Transport Apps & Tools info (p.19) to ensure you don’t get hopelessly lost! Staying locally, the JakDojade. pl public transport route checker (and app) can be a lifesaver! As for those of you who are planning on trips way beyond the city, for instance travelling along the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland or wishing to go to the Beskid Mountain Range to enjoy winter sports, the e-podroznik.pl website is an essential tool to plan your journey - just fill out your start/end journey points, dates, click search and you’ll be shown all possible regional travel connections! 9

Winter in Silesia span of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland where you can experience the sights of limestone rocks, karst formations, cliffs, valleys, streams and caves, which can all be found by following the Trail of the Eagles’ Nests - a collection of medieval castles and defensive fortifications. Perfect.

Żywiec Beskids in winter.

Photo: Pudelek, Wikipedia

BYTOM AND SOSNOWIEC Nearby Bytom and Sosnowiec also have outdoor ski centres for you to enjoy. In Bytom, the Sport Dolina centre has one medium sized hill (found at ul. Blachówka 94), whereas in Sosnowiec, Środula (ul. 3 Maja 51) offers small, medium and large hills. Both centres provide the possibility to hire equipment and are serviced by Poma ski lifts. Don’t worry if it doesn’t actually snow, as the centres also have snow machines to keep the fun going. These are perfect places to practice on something resembling real outdoor conditions without having to travel a great distance! They’re popular places for the locals to go, and no wonder, they’re so easy to get to being so close to Katowice. BESKID MOUNTAIN RANGE If you’re more certain of your skiing/snowboarding abilities and you’ve mastered your bent knee stances with boards or planks attached to your feet, then the next step is to try out some real ski slopes in the Beskid Mountain Range! You have plenty of choices, from (take a big breath to read these in Polish all in one go!) Wisła, Żywiec, Bielsko-Biała, Ustroń, Istebna, Brenna, Korbielów, Zwardoń, Międzybrodzie Bialskie, Rajcza, Ujsoły but none more popular than Szczyrk! The Szczyrk Mountain Resort is one of the biggest ski centres in Poland. The infrastructure is pretty top notch, and the stats will raise an eyebrow of interest from you: the resort is found on the mountains of Małe Skryznce (1211m) and Wierch Pośredni (1000m), with tracks spread across 22 km (5 km with lighting), however, if you also include the Central Sports Centre (Centralny Ośrodek Sportu) and Beskid Sport Arena, for which a unified skipass is available, the length of the tracks goes up to 40 km (8 km with lighting), with courses ranging in difficulty for all levels of skiers and snowboarders. There are no Poma ski lifts here, instead, you have the more comfortable 6-man ski chairs and 10-man gondolas to ride up in style. After it’s all done, there’s plenty to do in the evenings with aprèsski events being a big part of the experience in the Beskids. To learn more about these ski resorts, visit the Silesian Tourism Organisation’s website www.beskidy.travel. KRAKÓW-CZĘSTOCHOWA UPLAND If skiing is not your thing, and casual walks through the park or winter swimming don’t quite cut it for you, there are some great trails for you to check out along the 160 km 10

‘SILESIAN TASTES’ CULINARY TRAIL (ŚLĄSKIE SMAKI) Whatever you choose to do during your time in Silesian region you’ll need to eat, and there’s no better time to check out some local cuisine when autumnal and winter recipes feature heavily on the menu. There’s a whole host of seasonal ingredients to enjoy, from mushrooms, pumpkin, game meats etc. To learn more about this culinary treat, read more in our section about ‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail (p.48) or check out their website www.slaski.smaki. IF THE WEATHER GETS TOO COLD... Sometimes, even our best laid plans don’t go quite as we had hoped, and if the winter really bites in Poland, it can leave you eager to spend as much time indoors as possible! But just because it can get cold outside, doesn’t mean you have to get cabin fever in your accommodation. If you wish to remain within Katowice’s city centre, you can check out the downtown area (p.28), with everything fairly close meaning you won’t need to do much walking or travelling. The nearby Cultural Zone (p.32), from the exciting NOSPR to the fascinating Silesian Museum are perfect for not only killing time, but enjoying the experience! If you’re looking for something more or less relaxing, or adrenaline pumping, check out our Activities & Experiences section (p.44) for a few recommendations for those who love to be pampered, enjoy a good movie,

The market square’s Christmas Market.

Photo: Katowice City Council

or generally have fun. If you’re with the kids, we have the perfect recommendations for Kids & Families (p.46) that will keep not only young ones happy, but likewise entertain the adults too. If you feel young, we fully encourage you continue to play and have fun just like the kids! Whatever you plan to do this winter in Silesia, we hope you enjoy some of our recommendations – we’re certain you’ll stay occupied and have some fun at the same time!

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Events

Nikiszowiec Christmas Fair, (p.15)

EVENTS BY DATE 13.12 19:30 » LEONARD SLATKIN / MARTIN HELMCHEN

Leonard Slatkin conducts the National Radio Symphony Orchestra performing the Concerto for Piano and Orchestra in G minor, Op. 33, the only piano concerto by Czech composer Antonín Dvořák, and the Symphony No. 8 in C minor, Op. 65, by Dmitri Shostakovich. The guest pianist will be Martin Helmchen, one of the exceptional German pianists of the younger generation, described as “the kind of performer who lifts his audiences up to heaven just by penetrating inside his music with nimble fingers, questing intelligence and a beating heart.”QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets 25-80zł, www.nospr.org.

18.10 - 08.12 » ARS CAMERALIS

One of the many strengths of the Ars Cameralis Festival is its diversity and the unique interdisciplinary, eclectic attitude. The festival combines art events, music concerts, literature lectures, theatre performances, film screenings, a variety of workshops, and meetings with artists. The events take place in various venues across Silesia. QTickets vary depending on the event, www. arscameralisfestiwal.pl. 12

01.11 - 29.02 » EMPATHETIC CINEMA SERIES AT “ŚWIATOWID” MOVIE THEATRE

In order to make cinema accessible to viewers living with various challenges, the Empathetic Cinema series was born. Hence, the space of the “Światowid” movie theatre has been readjusted to accommodate the needs of people challenged physically. The screening preferences of the audience have been taken into account, and all possible precautions have been taken to allow for the best comfort of movie lovers. QN‑12, Światowid, ul. 3 Maja 7, tel. (+48) 32 258 74 32, Tickets 13-18zł, www.swiatowid.katowice.pl.

03.11 - 23.02 » CZECH WINTER AT “KOSMOS” CINEMA

2019 marks the 60th anniversary of the Studio Cinema Movement in Poland. For years studio cinemas have been organising screenings of carefully selected European films. This time around the “Kosmos” cinema will present a review of Czech cinema masterpieces. The viewers will be presented with the opportunity to return to the world of Menzel, Count, Forman, Leipzig and Passer. QN‑9, Kino Kosmos, ul. Sokolska 66, tel. (+48) 32 258 05 08, www. kosmos.katowice.pl.

11.11 10:30 » INTERNATIONAL H.M GÓRECKI DAYS

VII International Henryk Mikołaj Górecki Days ReGenerations are dedicated to the outstanding visionary artist and mystic,

Events one of the most eminent artists of the 20th century. It is the biggest and oldest event promoting the work of this prolific composer. The title ReGenerations introduces the idea of multigenerational music, performers and audiences. The outstanding artists from Poland and abroad were invited to perform during nine concerts, featuring both “old” and “new” works. The concerts hope to reach audiences of all ages, from preschoolers to seniors. In addition, the programme include educational concerts, a press conference and film screenings. The concerts will take place in various venues. QM‑14, Christ the King Cathedral, ul. Plebiscytowa 49A, tel. (+48) 32 251 21 96, Ticket depends on the event, www. filharmonia-slaska.eu.

11.11 19:00 » INTERNATIONAL H.M GÓRECKI DAYS

VII International Henryk Mikołaj Górecki Days ReGenerations are dedicated to the outstanding visionary artist and mystic, one of the most eminent artists of the 20th century. It is the biggest and oldest event promoting the work of this prolific composer. The title ReGenerations introduces the idea of multigenerational music, performers and audiences. The outstanding artists from Poland and abroad were invited to perform during nine concerts, featuring both “old” and “new” works. The concerts hope to reach audiences of all ages, from preschoolers to seniors. In addition, the programme include educational concerts, a press conference and film screenings. The concerts will take place in various venues. QTicket depends on the event, www.filharmonia-slaska.eu.

15.11 19:00, 22.11 19:00, 24.11 17:00, 29.11 19:00, 06.12 19:00 » INTERNATIONAL H.M GÓRECKI DAYS

VII International Henryk Mikołaj Górecki Days ReGenerations are dedicated to the outstanding visionary artist and mystic, one of the most eminent artists of the 20th century. It is the biggest and oldest event promoting the work of this prolific composer. The title ReGenerations introduces the idea of multigenerational music, performers and audiences. The outstanding artists from Poland and abroad were invited to perform during nine concerts, featuring both “old” and “new” works. The concerts hope to reach audiences of all ages, from preschoolers to seniors. In addition, the programme include educational concerts, a press conference and film screenings. The concerts will take place in various venues. QM‑11, Silesian Philharmonic, ul. Sokolska 2, tel. (+48) 32 351 17 13, Ticket depends on the event, www.filharmonia-slaska.eu.

17.11 18:00 » INTERNATIONAL H.M GÓRECKI DAYS

Events outstanding artists from Poland and abroad were invited to perform during nine concerts, featuring both “old” and “new” works. The concerts hope to reach audiences of all ages, from preschoolers to seniors. In addition, the programme include educational concerts, a press conference and film screenings. The concerts will take place in various venues. QY‑16, St. Anne’s Church, Pl. Wyzwolenia 21 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 356 96 22, Ticket depends on the event, www.filharmoniaslaska.eu.

20.11 18:00 » INTERNATIONAL H.M GÓRECKI DAYS

VII International Henryk Mikołaj Górecki Days ReGenerations are dedicated to the outstanding visionary artist and mystic, one of the most eminent artists of the 20th century. It is the biggest and oldest event promoting the work of this prolific composer. The title ReGenerations introduces the idea of multigenerational music, performers and audiences. The outstanding artists from Poland and abroad were invited to perform during nine concerts, featuring both “old” and “new” works. The concerts hope to reach audiences of all ages, from preschoolers to seniors. In addition, the programme include educational concerts, a press conference and film screenings. The concerts will take place in various venues. QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Ticket depends on the event, www.filharmonia-slaska.

22.11 - 23.12 » CHRISTMAS MARKET

It might be cold, but the Christmas fair makes braving the chill worth it. Like many other Christmas Markets in Poland, the fair will feature an ice skating rink as well as stalls selling traditional ceramics, handmade toys, wreaths, candles, souvenirs, handicrafts, jewellery, regional sweets, snacks, heart foods and regional products (bigos, pancakes, ham, smoked, cheese, etc.). Christmas pastries like gingerbread, cupcakes, fruitcakes, shortbread, and tree cakes are always a treat; and the mulled wine, hot beer, honey beer, liqueurs and other spirits will keep you warm and festive.QN‑12, Rynek, Rynek, Admission free.

Tickets available on NOSPR.ORG.PL

24.11 - 12.01 » GREAT ART AT THE “RIALTO” CINEMA. EXHIBITION ON SCREEN.

Do not miss this incredible season of art films at the Rialto cinema! It is your opportunity to get the front seat to the world’s greatest art! It is an almost private viewing of the most prominent artists’ works from the biggest world museums in the best HD quality. Matisse, Rembrandt, Vincent Van Gogh, Monet, Cezanne, Degas, Renoir and many other great artists. QN‑13, Rialto, ul. Św. Jana 24, tel. (+48) 32 251 04 31, Tickets 13-18zł, www.rialto.katowice.pl.

29.11 - 01.12 » SILESIAN JAZZ FESTIVAL

The 14th Silesian Jazz Festival will gather leading musicians from Poland and around the world. This year the list of invited guests includes Maria Faust Trio: Shitney, Sabina Meck Sextet, EABS, Kuba Więcek Trio, and the Silesian Jazz Festival Orchestra. The last night of the festival will 14

Events feature the finale of th 6th International Jazz Composition Contest. The concerts will take place in several venues: Miasto Ogrodów (Garden City), Silesian Museum, and beer pub Absurd. QTickets 10-30zł, www.sjf.ck.art.pl.

01.12 12:00 » JOSÉ MARIA FLORÊNCIO / GIANLUCA LITTERA

“My music is as natural as a waterfall” - those are the words of a Brazillian composer, Heitor Villa-Lobos. The National Radio Symphony Orchestra led by José Maria Florêncio honors the 60th death anniversary of this unique composer performing Preludio Bachianas Brasileiras No. 4, W. 424, symphonic poem Uirapurú W 133, and Bachianas Brasileiras No. 2, W 247: IV. Toccata. The Bachianas Brasileiras are a series of nine suites that represent a fusion of Brazilian folk and popular music with the style of Johann Sebastian Bach. The Italian guest musician, Gianluca Littera, one of the few chromatic harmonica soloists in the world today, performs the Concerto para Harmonica by Heitor Villa-Lobos.QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets 2070zł, www.nospr.org.pl.

05.12 - 08.12 » NIKISZOWIEC CHRISTMAS FAIR

Every year the Christmas Fair at Katowice’s historical district, Nikiszowiec surprises with a bountiful offer of traditional Christmas treats and unique arts and crafts. From warming mulled wine to tasty sausages and meats, the market offers traditional Silesian dishes, among them soups, dumplings, grilled sausages, hams, and a variety of cheeses, both Polish and Austrian. But that is not all - there will be plenty of sweet desserts, chocolate, gingerbread, fruit dipped in chocolate and a variety of pies. There will also be plenty of craft sellers selling various unique Christmas ornaments. From the cheap and cheerful wooden figurines to the intricate and ornate delicate glass baubles, there will be something for everyone.QY‑16, Nikiszowiec, Nikiszowiec, tel. (+48) 32 255 14 80, Admission free.

05.12 19:30 » LAWRENCE FOSTER / ALEXANDER KNIAZEV

The three great works by three great Russian composers - Dawn over the river Moscow (Prelude to the opera Khovanshchina) by Modest Musorgski, Sergei Prokofiev’s Symphony-Concerto in E minor, Op. 125, dedicated to Mstislav Rostropovich, and Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky’s Orchestral Suite No. 3 in G, Op. 55, will be performed by the National Radio Symphony Orchestra led by Lawrence Foster. The well known Russian musician, Alexander Kniazev will be the guest cellist. Three very different monumental music compositions reflecting the complexity of the mythical old Russia. The concert will take place on the 5th of December, at 7.30 pm.QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets 1560zł, www.nospr.org.pl. 15

Events 05.01 12:00 » KAREN KAMENSEK / NEW YEAR’S MATINEE

Originating during the darkest chapter in Austria’s history, the New Year’s concerts have continually grown in popularity in the decades since, which can be attributed to the verve and creative energy of the compositions of the Strauss dynasty, as well as their authoritative interpretations. Today millions of people throughout the world draw joy and optimism for the New Year ahead through the lighthearted yet subtly profound character of this music. The National Radio Symphony Orchestra led by an American conductor, Karen Kamensek, Laurence Olivier Award winner for her performance of Echnaton Glassat the English National Opera, is following the Viennese tradition with the matinee concert on the 5th of January at 12 pm, performing not only Eduard and Johann Strauss works, but also the overture to Orpheus in Offenbach’s hell, špacírka from Dvořák’s beloved Slavic Dances and a suite of Spanish dances from Massenet’s little-known (regretfully) opera Le Cid. Hopefully, this lively yet nostalgic music will set the mood for 2020! QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets 35-120zł, www.nospr.org.pl/.

06.01 13:30-16:00 » THREE KINGS PARADE

The holiday of Three Kings or Trzech Króli (January 6) marks the end of the Christmas season in impressive style throughout Poland. A wholly Catholic holiday, 3 Kings honours Kaspar, Melchior and Balthazar, the three wise men who visited Jesus at his birth. Celebrations range from small to grand but often include a parade welcoming the wise men, with characters passing out candy and children dressed in colours signifying Asia, Africa and Europe (the respective homelands of the wise men). Mass is also a compulsory part of the Three Kings holiday as well, with families picking up a piece of blessed chalk during the service that is taken home and used to write the year and the initials “KMB,” with a cross between each letter, above the front door. This tradition is said to protect the family from sickness and misfortune for the year.QM‑14, Christ the King Cathedral, ul. Plebiscytowa 49A, tel. (+48) 32 251 21 96, Admission free, www.orszak.org.

10.01, 16.01 19:30 » LAWRENCE FOSTER / PLAMENA MANGOVA

Plamena Mangova, an accomplished Bulgarian pianist, and Lawrence Foster, the conductor of the National Radio Symphony Orchestra, will be performing Ferenc Liszt’s Piano Concerto No. 1 in E-flat major, S.124, the Symphony No. 1 in B major, Op. 38,also known as the Spring Symphony, which is the first symphonic work composed by Robert Schumann, right after his wedding, which may explain the happy tone of the composition. The last work performed will be Schumann’s Symphony No. 2, Op. 61 in C major. The concerts are a unique opportunity to follow the development of the Dichterliebe symphonies, from the first, Spring, through the studies of Bach’s second and third polyphonies, to the boldly accelerating fourth. Liszt’s 16

piano concertos, on the other hand, provide a spectacular overview of all the strengths of the Hungarian composer - from his bravura pianistic technique to his incredible melodic invention, to the astonishing formal ideas in his second concerto.. QO‑10, NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, Tickets 25-90zł, www.nospr.org.pl/.

EXHIBITIONS 19.10 - 08.12 » MONIKA GRZYMALA / DAMIEN DEROUBAIX. ON THE NATURE OF THE WORLD.

Pablo Picasso’s Guernica is regarded as one of the most moving and powerful anti-war paintings in history. Picasso painted Guernica in response to the bombing of Guernica, a Basque Country town in northern Spain, by Nazi Germany. Two contemporary artists, Monika Grzymala and Damien Deroubaix, inspired by Picasso’s masterpiece, created a series of artworks in response to Guernica. Monika Grzymala’s art installations are made using foil tapes which, according to the artist, allows her to draw in space. Damien Deroubaix’sexhibited oeuvre is the result of his lifelong dialogue with Picasso’s work. The exhibition at BWA is part of the Ars Cameralis Festival. QN‑11, BWA Contemporary Art Gallery, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, Tickets 3/5.50zł, www.bwa.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon.

27.09 - 26.04 » COUNTING MEMORIES. CHIHARU SHIOTA

In her large-scale thread installations that include a variety of common objects and external memorabilia, Chiharu Shiota explores the essence of human existence. Katowice exhibition features the installation comprised of nine tables and chairs, with a massive cloud of intertwined threads and entangled numbers floating above them. Chiharu Shiota’s interactive installation connects people and proves that we are all part of the same organism. The artist asks a viewer to reflect on his/her inner self, on the past, present, and future life, and to see beyond the object that is displayed in front of him/her. QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission 16/24zł, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

03.05 - 05.01 » UNFORGETTABLE. WOMEN DURING THE UPRISINGS AND PLEBISCITE IN UPPER SILESIA

Although Silesian insurgents were mainly men, there was a small percentage of women, most likely about 2–3 percent. They fought alongside men, dug trenches, dressed wounds, looked after the wounded soldiers, performed various office tasks, they were couriers, operated telephones and telegraphs, washed, cooked, cleaned, sewn armbands, and worked as translators. Most importantly, they were wives, mothers, and sisters who were providing for families when men were at work, fighting a war, in exile, in prisons and concentration

Events camps. The exhibition pays homage to those Silesian insurgent women. An “Insurgents’ hideout” escape room will be a part of the exhibition. QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Tickets 16/24zł, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon.

26.09 - 06.01 » THAT WHAT IS HIDDEN. BARTEK AROBAL KOCIEMBA

If you had been a child growing up in the Silesia region, you would have been collecting green, magical rocks with patterns. Fascinated by their look, you would delve into the past stories of their origin, maybe create stories about the underworld, maybe hold on to them forever because you truly believed they brought good luck. Those beautiful rocks are in fact a by-product of smelting iron ore. Although it may sound less exciting than the gift from the underworld, these rocks are symbolic of everything that is hidden, even if its presence is nebulous and unclear. They tell the story of decay and transformation, the story of changing substances exposed to fire, water, and human work. Bartek Arobal Kociemba, a Polish visual artist who works with paper, crayons, flowers, grasses, and branches, explores here the physical structure of the materials used, the mineral particles they contain, the artist’s movements and gestures. QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission free, www.muzeumslaskie. pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

07.09 - 29.12 » PROHIBITION, EXLUSION, SUPERSITION. A PHOTOGRAPHIC TALE OF WOMEN IN INDUSTRY

Silesia’s history is determined by the region’s industrial character. Socially, the region was always seen as conservative, with clearly established male and female roles. It is this kind of stereotype the current exhibition is challenging by displaying countless photographs proving the importance of the role of women in the Silesian industry over the past 150 years. The exhibition encourages us to look beyond the stereotype of a seamstress or a textile worker, in its place presenting women working in coal mining and in the arms industry. The selected photos represent virtually every type of photography – propaganda, document, journalism, and art.QP‑11, Silesian Museum, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, Admission 16/24zł, www.muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

13.12 - 26.01 » THE POLISH POSTER BIENNALE

The Polish Poster Biennale in Katowice, going back to 1965, is the oldest and the most recognised poster art competition in Poland. The exhibition made the BWA Gallery of Contemporary Art in Katowice a significant and respected cultural institution. The competition culminates in an exhibition of the selected artists’ works. Exhibited here are both the works of recognised artists as well as the youngest, debuting artists. The featured posters are characterised by thematic and design diversity. QN‑11, BWA Contemporary Art Gallery, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, Admission 3/5.50zł., www.bwa.katowice.pl.

29.01 - 09.02 » FOR MY FELLOW MAN

“For My Fellow Man” is an event during which the most eminent Polish artists exhibit their works in order to support the activities of one of the largest charities in Poland. The foundation For My Fellow Man organises a series of exhibitions, acting for the benefit of the Relief Society of St. Brother Albert.The initiative ends with a big charity auction, and its profits are donated to support charitable activities, and provide financial assistance to the poorest Polish residents. QN‑11, BWA Contemporary Art Gallery, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, Admission 3/5.50zł, www.bwa.katowice.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

14.02 - 22.03 » WORKS OF ASP ARTISTS

The stereotype of “cultural desert” often associated with the Silesian region could not be further from the truth. Katowice BWA hosts yet another fascinating exhibition presenting works of young Silesian artists associated at some point in time with the Fine Arts Academy. Previous exhibitions, “Katowice Underground Art after 1945”, “Active Silesia”, and “Savages” attempted to summarise creative attitudes of the young generation of Silesian artists. Silesia is often viewed as conservative and traditional, therefore the exhibition that juxtaposes the ideas of change and movement with those of traditional art fulfils the need to re-evaluate and break the stereotypically dominant images of Silesian art. QN‑11, BWA Contemporary Art Gallery, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, Admission 3/5.50zł., www.bwa.katowice.pl. 17

Arrival & Transport

Katowice and the wider area has a reliable transport network! As these super fast trams prove! | Photo: AdobeStock.

BY TRAIN For decades Katowice had a serious PR problem in the menacing shape of its own central train station - a truly ghastly architectural abomination that sheltered all manner of strange smells and a host of dubious characters. Having ourselves survived many a close encounter with tunnel dwelling riffraff and several existential dilemmas while commiserating in the communist era cafeteria, we are overjoyed to announce that those days are gone and no longer will travellers have to live in fear of drawing near to this huge communication hub. The loooong awaited, fully renovated and totally reconceptualised Katowice train station officially opened in October 2012 and was fully operational from April 2013. The finished product is indeed a thing of beauty (wait, are we still in Katowice?), and while it will undoubtedly take time for some people to fully scrub the industrial stain of the old train station from their memory, those arriving in the city for the first time will find themselves greeted by a fully modern metropolis that exceeds expectations. Congrats Katowice, it’s nice to meet you. KATOWICE TRAIN STATION With a total investment estimated at 240 million euros, the new station welcomes 12 million passengers per year with 520 trains running through it every 24 hours. The station also incorporates an enormous and modern shopping mall (Galeria Katowicka) and an underground parking 18

lot, with additional shopping and entertainment venues on Szewczyk Square. The regional bus station under the station is already operational so if you are travelling somewhere in Silesia beyond Katowice, or on your way to the airport, head down one of the escalators in the main train terminal to grab a bus. Besides the bevvy of modern conveniences and prestige the new station brings, perhaps the greatest advantage is its location and full integration as a local, national and international transport hub. In July and August there are 11 direct trains from Katowice to Kraków. Departure times: 03:17 (From June 03:34), 05:34, 08:14, 10:35, 14:30, 15:30, 16:35, 18:23, 20:11 (check their site in case of change to timetable). The average journey time is between 2:05 - 2:15. It is also possible to travel between the cities of the Silesian Metropolis by local train (Koleje Śląskie) from around 5am-midnight; the trip to Zabrze is about 20 minutes, to Gliwice 30 minutes. Station departure boards (odjazdy) are indicated by their yellow timetables while arrivals (przyjazdy) are white. The ticket offices for Intercity Trains are open 24hrs and for Koleje Śląskie 05:00 - 21:30. For connections to other destinations in Poland or abroad, check the website or call the infoline.QM‑12, Pl. Szewczyka, tel. (+48) 22 391 97 57 (from foreign mobile phones), www.pkp. pl. Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.

Arrival & Transport BY PLANE

TRANSPORT TOOLS/APPS

KATOWICE AIRPORT Katowice Airport is located 34km north east of Katowice in Pyrzowice, with frequent shuttle bus connections to and from Katowice. Two Departure Terminals, A and B, are situated side by side with a brand new Terminal C serving as the main Arrivals hub. Terminal C raises the airport’s projected passenger capacity from 3.6-4 million annual passengers to 5.5-6 million. All three terminals feature spotless toilets, money exchange counters, ATMs, information points, refreshment stops, pharmacy (Terminal B only) and car rental counters. The Airport has also recently updated its Business Traveller services for more comfortable arrivals and departures. Services included an expanded Business Lounge, Fast Track check in and a new Meet & Assist program that provides all encompassing concierge and valet services. For more info check out their new website. Taxis wait directly outside and can deliver you to Katowice for 95-160zł. (always confirm price first). ‘Airport Bus Service’/’Matuszek’ shuttle service makes the same journey for only 25zł (to Kraków for 50zł), and departure times from in front of both terminals are coordinated with flight arrivals (shuttles are even cheaper if you book online). Dropping off at ul. Andrzeja (M-12), you can pay cash to the driver on the spot or book ahead on their website: www. matuszek.com.pl. Airport Buses arrive (and depart) in the new local bus terminal located under the central train station in the city center and you can find their schedule here: www.pkm. katowice.pl/lotnisko. Full schedules for flights, as well as other essential travel information can be found at the userfriendly www.katowice-airport.com. Qul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 392 72 02, www.katowiceairport.com.

JAKDOJADE Despite the fact that Katowice’s tram and bus network is easy to use, even for foreigners, we’ll still admit to being a bit put off from using it at first; that is until we discovered the veritable skeleton key to unlocking public transport: the katowice.jakdojade. pl website and the jakdojade app for your smartphone. The former is a wonderful and free tool for advance planning, but the paid app is more practical for figuring out how to get from point A to B once you’re out in town and away from your computer. Just type in your starting address (the app does this automatically) and destination, or pin the locations on a map; select the time you want to depart or arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the best method for you to get there. Finished at the museum and want to head back to the hotel? This app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on, lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which ticket to buy. It’s brilliant and absolutely worth the couple euros you’ll spend to download it. E-PODRÓŻNIK This site can also help you get from point A to point B within Katowice, but is really invaluable when it comes to planning the journey to your next destination by bus or train. Use e-podroznik.pl to easily search bus and train connections and timetables, compare prices and even buy tickets in one of seven languages. There’s also a free mobile app (Android only). FREE NOW Formerly MyTaxi, Free Now is the new taxi app in Katowice. Free Now is present in over 100 European cities, including Kraków, Poznań, Gdańsk, Gdynia, Sopot, Warsaw and Wrocław, and allows you to select the type of ride you need, pre-book a taxi up to 4 days in advance, track your ride’s progress and share it with others, pay within the app, save addresses and more. free-now.com UBER Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but the company recently opened their European hub in Kraków. If you’re already an Uber user, you’ll find that the alternative taxi service - whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash, no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage across Silesia and all of Poland, however there are some drawbacks. Specifically, Uber drivers don’t have the same permissions as regular cabbies and may not be able to take you as close to your destination, or get you there as directly; such is the trade-off for slightly cheaper rates.

Katowice-Pyrzowice Airport

Photo: UserPiotrus, CC BY-SA 3.0

Arrival & Transport BY BUS

BY CAR

BUS STATION To call Katowice Bus Station (M-11) a ‘bus station’ is a bit of a misnomer. In reality, it’s little more than a small tin shed. Inside you’ll find a small waiting room (open 06:00 - 20:00) and all departures (odjazdy) and arrival times (przyjazdy) noted up on the board (most tickets have to be purchased directly from bus drivers). Outside the few departure lanes offer very little shelter from the elements but there is a drink and snacks shack, and a 24hr bathroom. Located in the heart of town next to the new Supersam shopping mall, to get your bearing after arrival take a swift left turn at ul. Mickiewicza (M/N-11) and within three minutes you’ll find yourself staring at the principal main street, ul. Stawowa (M-11/12). You’ll have to go further onto the Rynek (N-12) to find the nearest tourist information point, however. While it doesn’t offer tickets or phone cards (buy those at most kiosks), it does offer maps and advice and there is also internet. For info on local city buses see Public Transport.QM‑11, ul. Skargi 1, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 15, www.katowicedworzec.pl.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. Although the quality of the roads has improved greatly in the last decade, with the resurfacing of old roads and the addition of new expressways and motorways (a work still ongoing), aggressive and impatient driver behaviour still results in many accidents. Be cautious and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. You can use your home driving license or an international driving permit for six months from the entry date on your passport. Carry your license and passport at all times when driving.

CAR RENTAL

Katowice is a straight 75km drive west from Kraków along the A4 highway, one of the better stretches of road in the country, but it’s smooth asphalt doesn’t come free. Toll gates can be found at either end at which you will need to pay 20zł if driving a car. This brings you in on Al. Górnośląska (J-5). The other major route in will bring you along route 79 onto ul. Chorzowska (B-1). Driving around Katowice can be a bit hellish for those uninitiated to the complexity of the city’s oneway streets and the constant presence of roadwork, so we recommend you ditch your vehicle at the earliest opportunity. Car crime is not unheard of and you’ll be safest leaving your ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street parking is also available and generally operates under the control of a local parking warden. He will be wandering along his patch wearing a bib of some colour checking to see who’s naughty and nice. Parking prices are 2 zł for the first hour, 2,40zł for the second hour, 2,80zł for the third and 2zł per hour after that. GUARDED PARKING QQ‑14, ul. Sikorskiego 20, tel. (+48) 660 78 85 51.

All most travellers need to rent a car in PL is 18 years of age, a credit card (not debit), and a valid foreign driver’s licence. Be aware, however, that those from countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention on Road Traffic (United States, China, Australia...) cannot legally drive on their home licences; technically an International Driver’s License is required in those cases. Though some rental companies (the dodgier ones) will still rent you a car, be aware that you are assuming full liability for any damages if you get behind the wheel; you also run the risk of getting a citation from the police for driving without a valid license. If you’re looking to leave the country, be aware that you can’t cross the Polish borders into Ukraine, Belarus or Lithuania in a rental car. AVIS Avis is Poland’s biggest car rental company and offers a complete range of vehicles for rent throughout Poland. They are located in the city center in Altus and at ul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 601 35 48 12. Open Mon-Fri 08:30-00:00, Sat & Sun 09:00-00:00.QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 695 36 14 66, www.avis. pl. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 08:00-12:00; closed Sun. EUROPCAR Europcar offers a full range of vehicles from small hatchbacks, through Mercedes and up to mini-bus and vans. Check the website for additional offers. Also at ul. Wolności 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 32 285 50 41, Open 09:00-24:00.QM‑10, ul. Chorzowska 50, tel. (+48) 32 209 57 45, www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. The offices can be staffed outside of these hours for extra payment. 20

The Polish Fiat, or ‘Maluch’ - produced in PL from 1972-2000; considered a family car during the communist era.

Arrival & Transport

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

TAXIS

An extremely well developed system of trams and buses operated by the wonderfully named ZTM providing a simple and fast way of getting around Katowice and its surrounding towns, now all part of the Silesian Metropolis. The tickets for the network are valid for both buses and trams. A three-zone system is used, of which Katowice is in zone-one and Chorzów in zone-two. Accordingly, a one-zone ticket is required for the former and a two-zone ticket for travelling between the two. A one-zone ticket costs 3.20zł and now also serves as a 20 min ticket allowing you to swap forms of transport (bus to tram and onto a different tram for instance) within that time period. A two-zone ticket costs 3.80zł and also serves as a 40 min ticket. There is also a three-zone/ 90 min ticket available for 4.80zł. A 14zł 24hr ticket allows travel across the entire metropolitan area, though it’s hard to imagine getting your money’s worth out of this without spending the whole day on the tram.

Taxis are more honest than they were once were in Poland but it still pays to be on your guard especially when getting into a taxi at the main train station or airport. Make sure you choose a clearly marked taxi with a phone number displayed as well as a sticker showing its prices which you should find in the window. Check the price with the driver before setting off and make sure he turns his meter on. Taxis are now legally obliged to give you a printed receipt for your journey. Most firms will charge you 7zł to get in and then a further 3zł per kilometre when travelling in the city. Travelling outside of city limits and at night is likely to cost up to 50% more than normal.

Almost all travel within Katowice and Chorzów can be accomplished using trams, most of which run through the new stops on the Rynek. Tram no.s 6, 11 and 19 run between the Rynek and Chorzów via Silesia Park and are the most useful trams for getting there and back. Tickets can be bought from any kiosk, or from bright yellow machines found at many tram stops around the city. Make sure you validate your ticket when entering the tram or bus. The penalty for riding without a validated ticket is 90zł (plus the price of the ticket) on the spot. (The normal price of the fine if you pay within 7 days is 125zł plus the price of the ticket.)

ENGLISH SERVICE TAXI This is a totally new standard of taxi service in Katowice. All of their experienced drivers are fluent in English and all of the taxis in their fleet are Audis and Mercedes. Of course each car also comes equipped with airconditioning, wi-fi and on board credit card terminals (Visa, Mastercard, American Express). Whether you are going to and from the airport or travelling to a meeting across town, your comfort and ease of travel is always paramount. So forget about being overcharged by a shady driver barking demands in languages you can’t understand. This is a taxi you can truly trust.QN‑10, tel. (+48) 607 61 51 21, www.e-taxi.katowice.pl.

KATOWICE PUBLIC TRANSPORT COMPANY QN‑11, tel. (+48) 32 743 84 46, www.kzkgop.com.pl.

AIRPORT TAXI SERVICE Qtel. (+48) 784 84 68 66, www.taxipyrzowice.pl. CITY TAXI QN‑10, tel. (+48) 32 203 77 77, www.citytaxi.katowice.pl. ECHO TAXI QN‑10, tel. (+48) 32 201 42 00, www.echotaxi.com.pl.

-taxi

your english service taxi

City Basics Polish Facts & Language

The Polish language can feel like a maze, or an optical illusion at times... | © Alana de Haan

Some of you arriving in a new country may like to know some basic facts about the place. So, in a whirlwind: Poland covers an area of 312,685km2 and is the 9th largest country in Europe. Its population is 38,858,000 with Warsaw, the capital, being the largest city (1,763,615 inhabitants) and Katowice the 11th largest (295,449). The local currency is the Złoty (gold), with a 0.5L of beer costing you roughly 2.75zł in a shop and 10.00zł in a bar. Now that you’re here, attempting discourse in the Polish language can be intimidating, but fortunately most Poles have a healthy command of English. Still, learning some Polish phrases will smooth your time here and may even win you a few friends. On the downside, Polish is considered one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers. On the upside, words in Polish are actually pronounced the way they are spelled, so once you learn basic pronunciation, you can go one step further and learn some Silesian (there’s still no consensus if this is a dialect or separate language)! We’ve listed the letters whose pronunciation diverges from English, and some basic words and phrases to get you started. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

BASIC PRONUNCIATION ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

POLISH WORDS & PHRASES

Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... I’m from England. Do you speak English? I don’t speak Polish. I don’t understand. Two beers, please. Cheers! Where are the toilets? You are beautiful. I love you. Please take me home. Call me!

Mam na imię... Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku? Nie mówię po polsku. Nie rozumiem. Dwa piwa proszę. Na zdrowie! Gdzie są toalety? Jesteś piękna. Kocham cię. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrovyeh!) (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

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Katowice Sightseeing Industrially designed & thoroughly mined, Katowice is well and truly on its way to shaking its former reputation as an ugly city. Over the years this dynamic city has grown on us and we hope that it does the same to you. Read on to see what is waiting to be discovered.

Katowice Sightseeing Katowice, despite its recent architectural and cultural renaissance, can still only dream of achieving the enviable tourist status of neighbouring cities Kraków and Wrocław, which better fit the profile of a top European travel destination. In contrast, much of Katowice’s charm is in its complete non-conformity to that standard template for tourist appeal; here you won’t find a castle or palaces, no ancient ruins...no ‘Old Town,’ per say, no picturesque waterfront. What the region does possess, however (and which you won’t find in haughty Kraków), is a raft of odd and eclectic industrial heritage sites, as well as an increasing range of cultural venues and events which have earned Katowice status as a UNESCO City of Music. A blue collar city to this day, Katowice and its neighbouring cities in Upper Silesia were born into the working class, growing up during the Industrial Revolution and put to work in sooty mine shafts, factories and railway yards. The area’s history is inextricably entwined with the manufacture of coal and steel, and the stacks, shafts and massive waves of migrants that followed the discovery of the region’s mineral resources. As such, any mention of tourism in the district is usually preceded by the word, ‘industrial.’ Enthusiasts of this topic are advised to get their hands on a copy of Silesia’s Industrial Monuments Route, which can be picked up free of charge in any Silesian tourist information office, and while we’ve covered many of the entailed sites in this very guide, the region has plenty more to offer than we have space to include here. After decades of decay, Katowice has undergone massive redevelopment in the post-communist era to become a growing business and cultural centre. Although there was a time, not long ago in fact, when being a tourist in this town was a very strange and lonely enterprise, the times have very much changed. Today Katowice’s city centre is packed with modern architecture, and filled with cafes, restaurants, pubs, clubs and shops to match all tastes. Those seeking more conventional interpretations of the word ‘attraction’ will find plenty of cleaned-up 19th century architecture in the form of handsome townhouses in Downtown Katowice (p.26), particularly along ulica 3-go Maja between the Rynek (p.26) and Plac Wolności (p.28). The Silesian Museum (p.31) - located on the site of the former Katowice Coal Mine - is one of the best museums in southern Poland, and forms the fulcrum of the city’s new Cultural Zone (p.30). Outdoor types can visit the fantastic Valley of Three Ponds (p.32) featuring everything from beaches to cycle paths; or head over to the vast Silesia Park (p.34), which is packed with family attractions (including an amusement park and zoo), and offers great views via the Elka Cableway (p.35). Finally, shutterbugs should visit Nikiszowiec (p.36) for its offbeat art, architecture and photo ops galore. We hope you embrace the city for its curiosities and use our guide to go out and enjoy yourself. And the next time you hear someone slagging off Katowice for its slag heaps and smokestacks, you set the record straight.

TOURIST INFO & TOURS If IYP’s authoritative print guide, exhaustive web portal (iyp.me/katowice) and handy mobile app (iyp.me/ app) just aren’t enough and you need someone to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), here are the best tourist resources in town. CITY INFORMATION OFFICE With a several-storey, blinking blue and yellow neon sign, Katowice’s City Information Office is hard to miss and isn’t it just downright adorable to see them trying so hard? The super-friendly staff can offer time-killing suggestions in English or German and they stock a range of materials about the many things you’ll probably never see or do across Silesia. Free maps and lots of information on daily cultural events, as well as three new computers.QN‑12, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32 259 38 08, www.katowice.eu. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun 09:00-13:00. PTTK KATOWICE Feeling a bit lost or uncertain about Katowice? Take a guided tour with an English, German or Frenchspeaking guide and get an inside perspective on what Katowice has to offer (sometimes you need a second opinion). Demand for the service being what it is, dropping by the office won’t do; ring PTTK to make an arrangement and you’ll probably make their day as well. Services available year round.QN‑12, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32 253 03 62, www.pttk.katowice.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat 09:15-16:00; closed Sun. SILESIATRIP.PL Silesia Trip is a useful and comprehensive way to comfortably explore much of the region around Katowice. Offering 24 hour pick-up services from both the Katowice and Kraków airports, Silesia Trip has a plethora of tours, locales, and sights included in their itineraries, including everyday trips to the Guido Mine, Auschwitz-Birkenau, Wieliczka Salt Mine, the historic silver mine in Tarnowskie Góry, Częstochowa, Trail of the Eagle’s Nest in the Jura Upland, the Queen Louise Adit in Zabrze and the Tyskie Brewery in Tychy. Tours are available in English, French, Italian, Polish, Spanish and Russian and are targeted for those who have a particular interest in the history, culture and people of Eastern Silesia. They also offer traditional tours with an audio guide starting from their brand new headquarters, info point and souvenir shop on ul. Mariacka. As of May, the same tours will be available on bike! Pick up some sweet Silesia swag and Katowice related gadgets before or after your trip or tour.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 11, tel. (+48) 502 11 63 31, www.katowice-tours.com. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; closed Sun. 27

Downtown Katowice

Katowice’s newly renovated Rynek (market square). | Photo: Courtesy of Katowice City Council

Katowice’s city centre was once a bleak, drab place. Just ten to fifteen years ago, early readers of this guide might find themselves standing near Katowice’s Rynek (market square) - which was nothing more than a giant roundabout - pondering what brought them there, questioning their very existence even, as rain poured down their faces.... Wake up from that frightful image! Kato’s city centre, though not exactly comparable to its more famous neighbouring city (K...Kra...yeah, that one), looks much better than it has ever looked before. And that sums up Katowice as a whole, which has undergone a huge regeneration in the last decade to become a post-industrial city of culture. The area around the Katowice train station, the main street - ul. Mariacka - full of bars and restaurants, all of them have been spruced up and no longer ooze with sadness (and urine) as you walk through. There’s plenty to see and do here, even if you’re only in the city for a short time. Read on for our recommendations. RYNEK (MARKET SQUARE) Until recently, one could easily be forgiven for standing in the middle of the market square and trying to find the market square. The construction works finished and the snazzy new Rynek 2.0 is complete with a flowing river, deck chairs, benches, and a spattering of flowers beds and trees. Before the massive overhaul (and we mean massive!), Katowice’s ‘Rynek’ was basically a large traffic roundabout and tram stop surrounded by a faded collection of mismatched buildings in architectural styles that had mostly fallen out of favour, if they ever engendered any enthusiasm to begin with. For years the city has known that turning its market square into, you know, an actual market square, would be a crucial step towards 28

becoming a respectable Polish city. A plan to modernise and pedestrianise the Rynek was put in place as far back as 2008. The first step was modernising the Soviet-era monstrosity at ul. Młyńska that uglied up an entire block of the Rynek, before they elegantly transformed it into the new modern City Hall.QN‑12, Rynek. UL. MARIACKA This is Katowice’s main high street, located a mere 5 minute walk from the Rynek (market square), and arguably a better starting point for visitors than the city’s market square itself. It’s best to think of Mariacka as not only the central ‘strip’ of the city’s bar scene, but also a magnet for the surrounding area, which is a hotbed of pubs and clubs, cafes and restaurants. Charming, relatively calm and clean by day, at night Mariacka becomes a hotbed for partiers and anyone looking to feel the pulse of the city. In summer, there are beer gardens aplenty, and in winter,

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Downtown Katowice STREET ART Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with large-scale Polish advertising and poster designs known internationally for high artistic quality. The art form flourished under communism and these stylish highminded aesthetics (although faded) can still be found around the country’s walls. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And they do. In Katowice, street art is going through a tidal wave of popularity. In the last decade new street murals have become a common sight around the city. City authorities have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring some large scale murals. In fact, the emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in Katowice’s urban landscape between sanctioned and unsanctioned works of ‘graffiti art’ and the prolific gang signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that city paint crews have targeted in their war on ‘vandalism.’ The best thing about street art is that you can visit it anytime, wind, rain or shine, and we wholly recommend checking out the yearly plans for the Katowice Street Art Festival (AiR, for short), and you may even be lucky enough to see some street art being created. At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have little trouble tracking it down in Katowice, and we’re making it even easier. In addition to cataloguing and GPSing street art addresses throughout the city, we’ve also marked each place with a spray can symbol on the maps in the back of our print guide, so you can literally use them to give yourself a tour of Katowice’s urban art. As for online, we’ve even listed old pieces of street art to keep you informed if they still exist or not, to save you time from visiting a site, only to discover that once fantastic mural has been painted over, or worse, the building it was on is gone (if you find that piece has been painted over since we’ve last been, please, do let us know)! Even if you’re here for a short time, you can visit city centre art, from the fantastic ‘Zachód Słońce’ (Sunset) neon sign above the River Rawa in the Rynek (N-12) to the crowning glory, ul. Mariacka Tylna (parallel to ul. Mariacka, O-12) and the immediate surrounding area, where there are more than enough murals by international and local artists to appease your appetite for murals! From Belgium’s ROA, Spain’s ARYZ, and local Polish and Silesian talents Raspazjan, Miszmas and Mona Tusz, you won’t be left disappointed on your street art walkabout. Wandering around the city you are bound to stumble across some rather fine and less ‘in your face’ little creative acts. We particularly like the painted and stencilled gas and electricity boxes which are dotted around town. They are frequently changed and too many to mention, but keep your eyes peeled, you’ll no doubt see plenty on your travels. Happy hunting. 30

Rooster by ARYZ on ul. Mariacka Tylna.

despite the cold, people still flock here to get their drink on. Exactly 378m long, Mariacka was laid out in 1875 and stretches three city blocks before terminating at St. Mary’s Church (Kościół Mariacki), from which the street’s current name hails. Originally named Holtzestraße after local doctor, statesman and city co-founder Richard Holtze, the street has been known as ul. Mariacka since Katowice became part of Poland following WWI, with the exception of WWII, during which Holtze’s name was reinstated. Once lined with drab buildings and parked cars on both sides, but also littered with strip clubs and dubious massage parlours, in 2008 Mariacka was utterly transformed from a seedy side-street into the pedestrianised high street it is today, with new lamps and benches and a more modern aesthetic making way for a more classy crop of tenants. While some still complain that the sheer number of cheap bars in such a short stretch impacts the overall atmosphere of the street, the truth is that this is a street of two extremes. The western half, starting at ul. Mielęckiego, is where the majority of the bars are, whereas the closer you get to the church, the atmosphere gradually changes as nicer restaurants and cafes reign, providing a calmer, more pleasant experience.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka. KATOWICE HISTORICAL MUSEUM This outstanding museum showcasing some of the more interesting aspects of the life and times of the city and its people is divided into two main sections. You can wander the well conceived rooms on three floors including a superb recreation of house interiors of the middle and upper classes from 20, 50 and 100 years ago. The other main exhibit “Z dziejów Katowic” covers the breadth of the city’s early history before officially being founded. Entrance to the exhibit is limited to 15 people every half an hour, all descriptions are in English, and the films also have English subtitles. One of the best museums in southern Poland. QO‑13, ul. Szafranka 9, tel. (+48) 32 256 18 10, www. mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00-17:30; Tue, Thu 10:0015:00; Sat 10:00-16:00; Sun 11:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. SILESIAN PARLIAMENT A standing testament to Katowice’s short-lived ‘golden age,’ the Silesian Parliament complex covers an entire city block between Jagiellońska, Reymonta, Ligonia and Lompy streets and was the largest structure in PL before Stalin

Downtown Katowice ‘gifted’ Warsaw with a certain monstrosity. Completed in 1929, the Parliament complex served as the governing seat of Silesia after the province was inexplicably granted autonomy following WWI. Unfortunately Hitler failed to observe the region’s sovereignty when he reclaimed it for the Reich after a short 19 years of self-government. After WWII, the new Polish government stripped Silesia of its prestige, confused by how Katowice could possibly have ever been considered the second capital of PL. Today the Parliament buildings house the offices of the Silesian Voivodeship, though many have changed function and more still are solely occupied by wistful memories of bygone days.QN‑13, Plac Sejmu Śląskiego. KATOWICE MIASTO OGRODÓW To give it its full name, ‘Katowice Miasto Ogrodów im. Krystyny Bochenek’ (Katowice City of Gardens named in honour of Krystyna Bochenek) was founded in 2016 after the Katowice Institute of Culture merged with the Katowice Centre for Culture and is now located across from the Silesian Parliament. The centre has become a cultural hub focusing on funky art shows and music events taking place throughout the year. The Hipnoza jazz club bar and Strefa Centralna cafe are also located in the building. Checking out their events calendar online is a must.QN‑14, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 609 03 31, www.miastoogrodow.eu. Galleries open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. BWA CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY In Katowice since 1949, BWA showcase works by both established and budding young artists, exhibiting the most modern trends in contemporary art and promoting the work of local artists. The building the BWA is located in is just along from the Rynek (p.28) and is a typically brutal building inspired by socialist modernism - some may hate this style, but others may just love it. All works are spread out between independent spaces over two floors and a visit is a must if you wish to see what up and coming Silesian artists are producing after rolling up their sleeves...QN‑11, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, www.bwa.katowice. pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 5.50/3zł. THE MODERNIST ARCHITECTURE TRAIL This one’s definitely for fans of architecture - take your kids on this trail at your own peril! The modernism movement was actually quite strong in Katowice during the interwar period of the 1920s and 30s, and beyond Gdynia, it was actually Katowice which was a bit of a hub for this functional movement, with buildings built which ranged from churches, public buildings to private residences. Starting in the city centre, you work your way outward (but not too far) and take in 16 buildings over a total distance of 5.5km, where you’ll see highlights such as the Silesian Parliament to Katowice’s very own 60m high cloud scraper (come on, it was considered huge when originally built!). We fully recommend getting yourself a leaflet with map from the city information office (p.27) on the corner of Katowice’s Rynek (p.28).Qwww.moderna.katowice.pl. 31

Cultural Zone

The true heart of Katowice. | Photo: Katowice City Council

The days of heavy industry in Katowice are over, and now, the beating heart of Silesia is found in its rich culture. Nowhere is this more visible than on the territory of the former Katowice Coal Mine, which has been drastically rejuvenated and redeveloped as part of the city’s official ‘Cultural Zone’ (Strefa Kultury). Linking the city centre’s iconic Spodek arena with the former pitheads of the Katowice mine, the Cultural Zone consists of four core venues: the other worldly Spodek; the pristine NOSPR (along with its outdoor amphitheatre), home to the Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra, as well as one of the best concert halls in Europe in terms of acoustic quality; the International Congress Centre, with its grass-covered rooftop from which you can view the Katowice skyline; and at the far end of zone, the fantastic Silesian Museum situated 13m underground in the former coal mine. The addition of these buildings has not only visually and architecturally enriched a once potholed moonscape, but packed the cultural calendar with high-calibre events attended by thousands throughout the year, the highlight arguably being the Tauron New Music Festival each summer.

Spodek

SPODEK In 1958 the Association of Polish Architects ran a competition to design a new stadium in Katowice. Won by a Warsaw company and designed by Maciej Gintowt and Maciej Krasiński, the resulting Wojewódzka Hala Widowiskowo-Sportowa w Katowicach (translating something like ‘Katowice Province Spectator & Sports Arena’) was built in stages between 1964 and 1971, and at 246,624 square metres is the one of the largest, certainly one of the strangest and, to some, the most beautiful piece of reinforced concrete in Poland. Nicknamed ‘Latający Spodek’ (Flying Saucer) the building was originally going to be built in Silesia Park but because of its avant-garde appearance finally landed in the city centre. Holding 11,000 people part of the building was in use in 1969, though the grand opening only took place on May 9, 1971. The reason for this delay was simple – in their wisdom the designers had picked a landsite suffering ‘medium mine damage’. That meant the possibility of cave-ins and collapse so the building was road-tested by 3,500 stamping (and dare we say it, nervous) soldiers. Given the thumbs-up by equally relieved engineers the building has been inspiring and amusing people ever since. A popular sporting venue, Spodek is also Katowice’s number one place for international concerts, having hosted a disparate collection of stars including Metallica and Depeche Mode. Today it also houses the Diament Spodek Hotel, and according to urban legend, the classic tune from Spielberg’s ‘Close Encounters of the Third Kind’ plays every time the building’s lights go on.QO‑10, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.spodekkatowice.pl.

Cultural Zone INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS CENTRE The newest architectural jewel in Katowice’s eclectic crown and this one comes with lush green rooftop carpeting (keep off the grass!). And like any good carpet, it really ties the proverbial ‘room’ together (ie the Cultural Zone) by forming a highly functional and even elegant emerald ‘bridge’ between the socialist Sci-Fi Spodek and the more modernist NOSPR building. This huge multipurpose facility is more than just its mossy exterior though. With the capacity to accommodate 15,000 visitors, coupled with the Spodek Arena next door, it is one of the largest venues in Poland for conferences, exhibitions, trade fairs and sporting events.QO‑10, Plac Sławika i Antalla 1, tel. (+48) 32 438 40 30, www.mckkatowice.pl. NOSPR - POLISH NATIONAL RADIO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA Considered the leading Polish orchestra, the Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra (NOSPR) was founded in 1935 in Warsaw. As a cultural ambassador representing Poland on the international art scene, it has cooperated with some of the greatest composers of the second half of the 20th century presenting first performances of their works. In 2014 Katowice celebrated the unveiling of its newest architectural and cultural jewel - the new headquarters of the NOSPR. Not only is this one of the more striking and architecturally astonishing buildings to be built in Poland in recent years, it is also one of the most acoustically pristine performance halls in all of Europe. To perfect the pin drop precision of the main hall’s acoustics, the Katowice based Architecture firm Konior collaborated with Yasushisa Toyota - founder of the Japanese Acoustics solutions company Nagata Acoustics (creators of the Walt Disney Hall in Los Angeles, among others). Their collaboration resulted in a sonically rich and visually stunning performance hall that can seat over 1,800 people with no obstructed views. The main concert hall is also equipped with cutting edge technology to both broadcast concerts live and record multi track albums live. This is truly a building fitting of Poland’s finest orchestra and is set to solidify Katowice’s place in the classical music world. Check NOSPR’s website for concert tickets

NOSPR

Silesian Museum

or plan your next trip to Katowice around a trip to this absolute shrine of a Symphony Hall. The ticket box office is open Tue-Sat 10:00 - 20:00 and on Sun 2 hours before a performance.QO‑10, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 12, www.nospr.org.pl. U SILESIAN MUSEUM The grand opening of the brand new home of the Silesian Museum is perhaps the biggest of Katowice’s recent investment unveilings. The museum’s scope, quality of the permanent exhibitions and the architectural prowess of the newly adapted subterranean chambers are all equally impressive. Approaching the Silesian Museum from the city centre, the first visible element of the museum is the prominent mine shaft hoist tower of the former Katowice Coal Mine. There are dozens of such towers spread all over Silesia, many of which remain operational. This particular mine shaft hoisted its last load of black diamonds in 1999 when the entire mine complex was closed for good after operating for 176 years and hauling over 120 million tonnes of coal! Today, this impressive steel structure has been adapted into an elevatoraccessible viewing tower which offers spectacular views of Katowice and other close-lying Silesian suburbs (open dependent on weather conditions). The next striking feature you will notice are the large transparent glass buildings that cover the entire expanse of terrain. Their presence offers a thoroughly modern counterpoint to the 18th century historical buildings which make up the rest of the museum’s exhibition space. There are six main ‘buildings’ (both old and new) that make up the Silesian Museum campus, a few of which have yet to be opened to the public. Descending into the subterranean chambers of the Silesian Museum the impressive interiors open up before your eyes. The main museum is spread out over four underground levels and has a floor area of nearly 25,000 m², of which 6,000 m² is devoted to exhibition space (both permanent and temporary) - all of which has been adapted from the former tunnels, shafts and workshops of the former mine.QP‑11, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1, tel. (+48) 32 213 08 11, www. muzeumslaskie.pl. Open 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 24/16zł. Family & group tickets available. Tue free. 33

Southern Katowice

Learn about the pacification of the Wujek Mine in the Silesian Freedom & Solidarity Centre (p.35).

If the hustle and bustle of urban exploration is not your thing, there’s always the relative calm, relaxation and leisure possibilities to be found in the south of the city. Fear not, it’s not too far from the centre at all - only 15 minutes by bike, 10 by bus; in fact the huge Katowice Forest Park is within city limits, as well as the Valley of Three Ponds with its fantastic spaces for beach lounging in summer, cycling, skating and jogging anytime of the year, a seasonal bar, and a waterpark for the kids. If all this sounds a bit too noisy for you, there’s always the enjoyment of relaxing in the squirrel-filled Tadeusz Kościuszko Park with child play areas, the famous Parachute Tower and plenty of quiet areas to just enjoy some silence. If history is your thing, check out the Silesian Solidarity and Freedom Centre, which is focused on the events surrounding the pacification of the Wujek Mine. Muchowiec Airport is also nearby; although mainly used for training pilots, sightseeing tours of Katowice can be arranged.

Tadeusz Kościuszko Park

Photo: UMK

TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO PARK The most central of Katowice’s parks, though it gets outmuscled in acreage by the Silesia Park and Katowice Forest Park, Kościuszko Park is still an impressively sizeable 72 hectares. Starting life as a mere six-hectare municipal wooded park way back in 1888 the park has grown in size and variety and now features over 90 species of trees and shrubs including linden, beech, cherry, rhododendrons and azaleas. There are also classic English gardens including an avenue of roses and typical English flower beds. Other features include sculptures by local artists, the gorgeous wooden Church of St. Michael the Archangel, and the extraordinary Parachute Tower close to its southern border. Allegedly the only thing of its kind in the country, it was on top of this tower that a group of Polish scouts attempted to defend the city from the Germans on September 4, 1939. A small monument next to it marks the event.QK‑16, ul. Kościuszki. PARACHUTE TOWER Originally 50 metres tall, the parachute tower was built in 1937 for the training of parachute jumpers, however it found its place in the Polish national consciousness when for two days in 1939, Silesian scouts defended the city of Katowice from this tower. Exchanging fire with German troops into the evening of September 4th, the tower was finally destroyed when the foul-playing Germans used an antitank gun to rid themselves of the darn kids. The tower that stands in the park now is a 35m reconstruction of the original and the only parachute tower in Poland today. The scout’s heroic defence of the tower, doomed as it was, grew so legendary that it became the literary subject of poems and songs. A granite obelisk commemorates their brief but noble ascent into adulthood atop that fabled tower. QK‑16, Park Tadeusza Kościuszki.

Southern Katowice SILESIAN FREEDOM & SOLIDARITY CENTRE This museum is a dedication to, and indeed a memorial, to the events surrounding 16 December 1981, known as the ‘Pacification of Wujek.’ Shortly after Martial Law was declared in Poland on 13 December 1981 by General Wojciech Jaruzelski, workers at the famous Wujek mine went on strike and were immediately met with a brutal show of force, which left nine dead. The museum itself has one permanent exhibition - ‘the Memorial Room of Wujek Coal-mine’, and uniquely, the guides themselves are former workers of the mine that took part in the protest. English speaking guides are on offer, however, you must call in advance to arrange.QH‑16, ul. Wincentego Pola 38, tel. (+48) 32 601 21 08, www.scwis.pl. Open 09:00-15:00; Tue, Thu 09:00-17:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. KATOWICE FOREST PARK Occupying a whopping 420 hectares of land between the train tracks, highways, coal mines, airports, apartment blocks and other signifiers of Silesian sprawl that shape its boundaries, this predominantly wooded wilderness just south of the city centre is the best place in Katowice to convince yourself you are not in Katowice. Within Forest Park’s protected natural area territory, which includes Valley of Three Ponds, you’ll find miles of marked trails through woods full of deer and wild boar, ponds in which you can swim, sail or fish, places to eat, a campground, dozens of sculptures, gardens and more. This is a perfect place for walks (especially for the outdoor types!) anytime of the year. To get there catch buses 674 or 910 to Osiedle Paderewskiego Trzy Stawy shopping mall near Valley of Three Ponds.QN‑19, os. Paderewskiego-Muchowiec. VALLEY OF THREE PONDS If you’ve ever been to that other Polish city beginning with a K, you may have noticed the riverfront is a popular place for locals to go hang out. In Kato things are no different. Although the river in the centre is nothing to boast about, slightly south you will find the city’s most popular recreation area - Valley of Three

Courtesy of Katowice City Council

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK LA CANTINA Here we go dropping the superlatives: Located 4km from Katowice’s centre in lovely Dolina Trzech Stawów (wait for it), those who make the trek out to this Mediterranean charmer (wait for it) will be rewarded with not only the beautiful surroundings of Valley of Three Ponds (wait for it), but also Katowice’s finest restaurant, hands down and undulating in adulation (!!). The stone and wood interior - comfortably casual, but with all the expected finery - creates a warm dining atmosphere that will ripen any mood. Top off your superb meal of decadent delights with a killer wine list and it’s easy to forget Katowice isn’t located somewhere in Provence.QS‑16, ul. Trzech Stawów 22, tel. (+48) 32 256 29 27, www.la-cantina.pl. Open 09:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-24:00. €€€. XTU6 PAN DE ROSSA Located in the Valley of Three Ponds – one of the city’s most popular recreation areas, Pan de Rossa makes more than just an appetising diversion for those creaking around on their bicycles. Unfortunately they downsized their seasonal terrace overlooking the pond when they moved across the road and into the trees. However what they lost in views they gained in design with a fresh, modern décor with lots of light through their large windows. The menu remains a dissertation on local grilled fish and game dishes but has upped the Polish selections, likely to cater to a more local audience.QS‑16, ul. Trzech Stawów 23 (os. Paderewskiego), tel. (+48) 32 256 05 52. Open 11:00-22:00. €€€. U Ponds. First established as a 125 hectare leisure space in the 1960s before being absorbed into the 420 hectare Katowice Forest Park which today surrounds the small Muchowiec airfield south of the centre. Though ‘Valley of Three Ponds’ is generally applied to all woodless areas surrounding ul. Trzech Stawów and Forest Park’s 11 (not 3) ponds, the name technically refers to the smaller, more cultivated area located just beyond. In this vicinity you’ll find a seasonal campground, tennis courts and a fine restaurant (Pan de Rossa) with inspiring views overlooking the water. Of the ponds in the immediate vicinity, the most popular has a beach for bathing, another is reserved for water sports, and several are available for fishing. The entire park is also full of trails, making it a popular place for cyclists and joggers. In the summer months, it’s also a great place for kids to visit with its outdoor water park. Most easily accessed by bike (see City by Bike) or instead take buses 674 or 910 from the centre, getting off at the Trzy Stawy shopping mall. It’s a short walk east from there.QS‑16, ul. Trzech Stawów. 35

Silesia Park

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Silesia Park Aside from perhaps Warsaw, Upper Silesia, and particularly its ‘capital’, Katowice, has always felt like the region of Poland most buggered by the communists. The scars are dotted around from the severe socialist apartment complexes to the towering smokestacks. However, Poland’s communist regime was not completely without forward vision and only a few years after ‘inheriting’ the stripped industrial wastes of Upper Silesia after World War II, party leaders earmarked a vast 620 hectare plot on the borderlands of Katowice and Chorzów with the intention of creating the largest urban park in Europe. The land in question was far from an untouched patch of wilderness. On the contrary, the designated area was 75 percent devastated by mining and industrial waste, with the rest being undesirable marshland and dead trees. Under the direction of local hero Jerzy Ziętek, an important Silesian Insurrectionist turned politician, work began as early as 1950 on what was known as the Provincial Park of Culture and Recreation (Wojewódzki Park Kultury i Wypoczynku or WPKiW): one of the most ambitious and pioneering environmental renewal projects ever undertaken in Europe. In typical party fashion, Silesia’s working class was strongly encouraged to participate in the creation of this ‘people’s park’ - industrial workers to school children joined in the digging and planting of an astounding 3.5 million trees and shrubs in the first year alone, as the project moved forward at a record pace. In total 3.5 million tonnes of soil were moved to shape the area of the park, and 500,000 cubic metres of humus used to fertilise it. After completing the rehabilitation of the landscape, the park committee systematically set about establishing a series of attractions in the vast space of WPKiW, including an amusement park, zoo, planetarium (currently closed for renovation), narrow-gauge railway, the Silesian Stadium, Elka cableway and others as the park developed intensively in the 1950s-70s. In 1989, when the regime crumbled, the park began a period of stagnation. However, since it became a public enterprise subsidised by the state budget in 2003, it has re-established itself as one of southern Poland’s biggest

GETTING THERE Getting to Silesia Park from Katowice is as easy as hopping on a tram or bus (tram being the fastest). There are four tram and bus stops along the course of the park: ‘Park Śląski Wesołe Miasteczko’ (amusement park), ‘Park Śląski Ogród Zoologiczny’ (the zoo), ‘Park Śląski Wejście Główne’ (main entrance) and ‘Chorzów Stadion Śląski’ (Silesian Stadium). Take trams 0, 6, 11 or 19; or buses 6, 820, 830 or 840 (getting off at Park Śląski Ogród Zoologiczny). Chorzów is in zone 2 of Katowice’s public transport system so we recommend getting a 3,80zł zone 2 ticket which will get you to the park comfortably and beyond.

Elka Cableway.

attractions. The last several years have seen an official name change to the much more parsable ‘Silesia Park,’ world-class rides added to the Legendia amusement park, as well as the opening of parks for more popular modern pursuits including the rope park and dirt bike course. Silesian Stadium (Stadion Śląski) has been totally modernised, and numerous restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels continue to open in and around the park. ELKA CABLEWAY So you’ve arrived at Silesia Park and you realise just how big the whole place really is. You now have a choice walk, find a city bike, take the narrow gauge railroad or, to get a birds eye view, take the Elka Cableway, carrying you conveniently from one end of the park to the other in 40 minutes (a distance of 2185 metres!), and you’ll get some absolutely great views on the way in your choice of an 8-person cabin or a 4-person chair. Tickets can be purchased from ticket machines at either Point A, found at Legendia Amusement Park, or Point B, at the Silesian Stadium. Adults pay 13zł one way, 20zł return. Kids aged 3-16 and those with a disability pay 10zł one way, 15zł return. The last journey of the day leaves 15mins before closure.QI‑7, Promenade Gen. Jerzego Ziętka, Chorzów, www.elka.parkslaski.pl. Open 11:0018:00; closed Mon. Please check their website for more information. SILESIAN ZOO Located in Silesia Park, PL’s largest zoo is a massive 50 hectare extravaganza with 2,465 animals of 390 species from all over the world, including crowd favourites such as rhinos, Siberian tigers and cheetahs. The kids will be thoroughly enthralled thanks to a petting zoo and Dinosaur Valley, which features some rather silly concrete dinos. Feeding times in the warmer months for red pandas daily at 13:30, pelicans 10:00 and brown bears Tue, Thu & Sat at 14:00.QH‑5, Promenade Gen. Jerzego Ziętka 7 (Park of Culture & Recreation, Chorzów), tel. (+48) 666 03 14 96, www.zoo.silesia.pl. Open 09:00-16:00. Tickets 15/5zł, family 35zł. 37

The Porcelain Factory

The revamped Porcelain Factory. | Photo: Fabryka Porcelany

If you’ve ever been to Łódź’s ‘Manufaktura’ or ‘OFF Piotrkowska’ then you’ll kinda get the idea of what this place is trying to be (no, there’s no large shopping centre, but the rest fits the bill). Here since the 1920s and originally the Giesche Porcelain Factory, the modern day ‘Fabryka Porcelany’ is now run by the Giesche Foundation (created in 2012) which has revamped the site to be a post-industrial and technological park housing design offices, art galleries, interior design shops and a concert/event venue known as P23 - any techno fiends among you will know this place means business, oh, yes! You will also find here the fantastic Prodiż Bistro & Prodiż Nero Restaurant - they’re easy to find, as they provide a warm welcome to all visitors at the entrance to the whole complex. Amazingly, the site has been creating porcelain since the 1920s and still has a working furnace involved with production! Even when

GETTING THERE This is a fairly easy task, as there’s only one direct bus. Take bus 940 from the bus station on level -1 of Galeria Katowicka (M-12) to stop ‘Fabryka Porcelany’ (U13), although, to save yourself the hassle of travelling through nearly all of the city centre in one big loop, it may be best to get on at the nearby eastbound stop ‘Strefa Kultury NOSPR’ on Al. Roździeńskiego (O11), right in front of NOSPR in the Cultural Zone (p.30). A 20 minute ticket is more than enough to get you there. 38

you arrive, you will immediately spot the huge chimney stack, but if you look to your left (says the tour guide), you will see an odd looking mural. This piece was created by artist Artur Wabik in 2018 and represents porcelain cats that were once made here - to anyone with Polish roots, almost every grandparent in the land had these cats adorning their properties! There are a few porcelain shops here for you to check out, should you wish to see the many forms porcelain can be shaped into! A visit to Fabryka Porcelany is worth it, if even just to see this post-industrial plot, which is part of the Industrial Monuments Route (p.50) - a collection of the most interesting industrial heritage sites found throughout the Silesian region.

WHERE TO EAT PRODIŻ BISTRO Hearing about this place had us excited for many reasons, not least because we were delighted when Fabryka Porcelany underwent revitalisation - we love old buildings that are given a new lease of life through a perfect blend of traditional elements mixed with modernity. And that’s exactly what Prodiż Bistro offers. A great place to come Mon-Fri for breakfast (until 12:00) and lunch (from 12:00). Choose from daytime favourites like omelettes, sandwiches, (special mention goes to their burgers!) with great coffees, but be aware, the menu changes regularly, so best check out their Facebook page for the latest offerings. One consistent element is the pizza, made in a woodfired oven (Poland’s tallest, apparently!), which gives that extra oomph to the taste. If you miss out on the daytime

The ThePorcelain PorcelainFactory Factory eating, no worries, for the new venture by the owners is Prodiż Nero, which raised our eyebrows even more - as if one good place wasn’t enough, huh? Enjoy both. We did.QU‑13, ul. Porcelanowa 23, tel. (+48) 667 16 21 05. Open 08:00-20:00; Fri 08:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. TU6 PRODIŻ NERO RESTAURANT Bistro by day, and Nero by...well, nero. Following on from the success of Prodiż Bistro’s rise in popularity after its opening in 2016 in the revamped Fabryka Porcelany, the owners have stepped up their game with their latest venture - the perfect blend from bistro to fine restaurant has culminated in the arrival of Prodiż Nero. If you’ve been impressed by Bistro, Nero offers up that little bit extra. Italian dishes, offered with the local flare of the chef, which to us perfectly sums up the impressive changes in gastronomy in Katowice over the last 10 years - traditional, mixed with a confident modernity. Nero serves up some fine pizzas from a wood-fired oven (ahem, the tallest in Poland, apparently!) and a frequently changing menu means you’ll always be surprised by each visit (best check their Facebook page for menu updates). The location is unique, the bistro is already awesome, and Nero just continues the good vibe of the area. QU‑13, ul. Porcelanowa 23, tel. (+48) 667 16 21 05. Open Fri 17:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-20:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. €€. TU6

WHAT TO DO P23 Remember you’re officially in a UNESCO: City of Music - with such an accolade, the city’s venues no doubt punch well above their weight. We guarantee they do. At Fabryka Porcelany, the post-industrial vibe is perfect for one of the top music venues in Poland to be located. Hello, P23. If you haven’t been, we recommend finding yourself an event via their Facebook page and getting some tickets! The interior is spartan, with a knock-up style bar, but with an awesome sound system, the shows that go on here are legendary. And if you’re a fan of techno, then wow, you’re in for a treat at this place. Need we say more? To do so would spoil the fun of going and seeing it all for yourself.QU‑13, ul. Porcelanowa 23.

Porcelain cats mural by Artur Wabik.

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Photo: Fabryka Porcelany

Nikiszowiec

Nikiszowiec | Photo courtesy of Katowice City Council

The former workers’ district of Nikiszowiec is home to some highly unique early 20th century architecture as well as an excellent modern art gallery, a magnificent church and a few additional offbeat attractions. This forgotten attempt at plebeian paradise is earmarked on Silesia’s ‘Industrial Monuments Route’(available at all Silesian tourist information offices) and offers intrepid visitors a confounding, yet fascinating glimpse at a foregone age. While not long ago a walk around the neighbourhood may have been a dicey prospect, cafes and culture are now beginning to creep into this part of town and you’re no longer likely to be the only tourist prowling around. Perfect for a photo essay, charge up your camera battery and off you go.

GETTING THERE Only 8km/20mins from Katowice’s city centre, getting to Nikiszowiec is simple. There are four bus options numbers 30 (every 30 mins) and 920 (every 30/60 mins) travel from Al. Korfantego in front of the Katowice Hotel (N-11), with the no.30 going straight to Nikiszowiec’s ‘Szyb Wilson’ stop (near Wilson Shaft Gallery), and the 920 taking a longer route to the ‘Szyb Pułaski’ stop via Giszowiec. From Katowice Dworzec (M-12) bus no. 674 (every 30 mins) also goes to the ‘Szyb Pułaski’ stop via Giszowiec, while bus no. 930 (every hour, from Katowice Dworzec and Al. Korfantego) goes directly to Nikiszowiec’s main square the ‘Nikiszowiec Kościół’ stop. All stops are within Zone 1 of Katowice’s public transport network, so you only need a normal 3.20zł fare ticket. 40

Built between 1908 and 1912 to house workers in the backyard of their place of employment – the large smoke-churning Wieczorek (formerly ‘Giesche’) coal mine – the enclosed residential complex of Nikiszowiec is composed of six compact four-sided three-storey blocks with inner courtyards. Distinguished by its uniformity of style – red brick buildings accented with red-painted windowframing, and narrow streets joined by handsome arcades – the neighbourhood was designed by Georg and Emil Zillman of Berlin-Charlottenburg to be a completely self-sufficient community for 1,000 workers with a school, hospital, police station, post office, swimming pool, bakery and church. Thanks to WWI and the subsequent Silesian Uprisings – during which time Nikiszowiec saw fierce fighting, and was afterwards incorporated into Poland – St. Anne’s Church (Pl. Wyzwolenia 21) wasn’t able to be finished until 1927, but became the crowning glory of the neighbourhood as soon as it was. Though it would ironically seem to be a socialist planners’ wet dream, Nikiszowiec actually makes a happy, handsome departure from downtown Katowice and has become a prized location for amateur photographers and budding filmmakers due to the fact that it has remained virtually unchanged since the Second World War. City marketers have also recognised the district’s uniqueness with increasing efforts to draw tourist attention to the area and a long campaign afoot to fasten Nikiszowiec to the UNESCO Heritage List. Though the district is generally safe to wander, you should still exercise sensible precautions about where you stick both your nose and that fancy new digital camera; and who you do it in front of.

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WHAT TO SEE Begin your adventure by hopping on a bus to the Wilson Shaft Gallery. From the Wilson Gallery it is a short eight minute walk (or one bus stop) down ul. Szopienicka into Nikiszowiec proper; you’ll know it by its uniquely uniform architecture, gruesome water tower, leering smokestacks and the church spire marking its centre. Make a left onto ul. Zofii Nałkowskiej (towards Eurohotel and the ice rink complex) and then your first right to officially enter the district on ul. Rymarska and you’ll pass the Tourist Information Office inside the Industrial Ethnography Museum. Special mention goes to ul. Czechowa which can be described as the artistic heart of Nikiszowiec, with galleries and workshops found here.

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1 WILSON SHAFT GALLERY This seemingly obscure and certainly under appreciated modern art gallery is arguably Katowice’s best art space and one of the primary highlights of a trip to Nikiszowiec. Located in the pithead building and bathhouse of the old Wilson shaft of the Wieczorek mine, the buildings now occupied by the gallery date back to 1918, and were designed by the same Zillman brother tandem behind the Nikiszowiec housing district. The dilapidated mineshaft, where excavations began back in 1864, can still be seen in glorious ruin behind the gallery buildings, having ceased operation in 1997. The area is now filled with exhibition and office space, and brightly-painted outdoor sculptures in sharp contrast to the industrial surroundings, as well as a muraled entrance wall full of colourful pop culture icons (making it hard to miss). Not only is admission free but the mini-buffet is a great option for breakfast or lunch (Mon - Fri 08:00 - 16:00). QZ‑14, ul. Oswobodzenia 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 730 32 20, www.szybwilson.org. Open 09:0019:00. Admission free.

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2 ST. ANNE’S CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. ANNY) A welcome diversion from the smokestacks dominating the roofline of the district’s other side, this magnificent building incorporates Baroque design with two bell towers and a timepieced steeple, while blending into its surroundings without any of the ghastly and gratuitous exterior decoration associated with the style; make sure you take a stroll down ul. Św. Anny for the most photogenic views. If you’re lucky enough to get inside, take notice of the amazing 5,350 pipe organ and highly ornate Zillman chandelier. Please be respectful though and no visiting during masses.QY‑16, Pl. Wyzwolenia 21 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 356 96 22, www.swanna.wiara.org.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 14:0016:00.

Nikiszowiec EAT & DRINK

Śląska Prohibicja

Once a food desert, when we first wrote about Nikiszowiec we encouraged visitors to pack a lunch, but today there are several quality places for drinking and dining in the neighbourhood. ŚLĄSKA PROHIBICJA Up until recently in Nikiszowiec, there were only cafes to eat in should you get peckish, but that has now changed with the opening of Śląska Prohibicja (Silesian Prohibition). Going with a modern take on 1920s decor, this is a building with a whopping 700m2 of space across 5 rooms (one main area and 4 smaller rooms that accommodate 50-60 people); not just for restaurant use, but also for events such as weddings, and even musical performances (which take place Fri/Sat evenings and Sun lunchtime). Fans of gastronomy will be eager to know that the head chef is Magdalena Nowaczewska, winner of the 5th edition of Poland’s Master Chef, and it shows, for the food (taking inspiration from international and regional cuisine) is delightfully prepared, with the taste matching the appearance. A fantastic addition to this charming part of Katowice.QY‑16, ul. Krawczyka 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 723 28 99, www.slaskaprohibicja.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€. TUE CAFE BYFYJ This is the heart and soul of Nikiszowiec. Grab a table inside in the bright white and soft light interior, or outside on their breezy bricked terrace (with all year gas heater should it get cold!). The friendly waitstaff will take it from there and catch you up on all the savoury and sweet options from cakes, tarts, pizzas and daily lunch specials. Don’t overlook the beverages because they serve up some of the best coffee drinks around, not to mention organic juices, cool-colas, beers (low alko % as well) and prosecco. Above all, come to Byfyj for the ambience and start to get a knack for what Niki’s really all about. Opening hours subject to change. QY‑16, ul. Krawczyka 5 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 696 73 08 01, www.piekarniamichalski.pl. Open 09:0021:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00; closed Mon. TUo6 42

3 CENTRUM ZIMBARDO Centrum Zimbardo is one part of Stowarzyszenie Fabryka Inicjatyw Lokalnych (FIL Association), a non-profit organisation founded in 2009 by a group of local friends who wanted to improve things in Nikiszowiec, all borne of a passion for their district, Silesian culture, history and traditions. Not only does the association organise local events, such as concerts and markets, educational programmes and conferences, but Centrum Zimbardo provide guided tours for people wishing to visit the area, going into detail about the revitalisation of the area and the socio-economic history. Tours cost 170zł up to groups of 25 and it is necessary to book in advance by phone or via email - fil@fil.org.pl. Zimbardo is a great local project which connects you to the area by means of 1st hand accounts of life in Niki - it’s genuine and should be supported. Check their site for any updated opening hours.QY‑16, Plac Wyzwolenia 5, tel. (+48) 664 22 20 44, www.centrumzimbardo.pl. Open 14:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-16:00. 4 INDUSTRIAL ETHNOGRAPHY MUSEUM This branch of the Katowice Historical Museum is unique in its emphasis on ethnography and folk culture, approaching the topic from an urban, rather than rural, perspective. A collection of artefacts and cultural assets tells the everyday stories of Upper Silesia’s working class (primarily miners) from the period of early industrial development (mid-19th century) to the 1960s. They have three permanent exhibitions on display. The first is devoted to the Janowska Group - a collection of Nikiszowiec miners including Teofil Ociepka, Paweł Wróbel, Erwin Sówka and Ewald Gawlik who gained renown for their ‘naive’ painting. Another exhibit is a replication of a typical Nikiszowiec worker’s house. The final exhibit goes even deeper and delves into the various laundering techniques used in the district’s heyday (it’s more interesting than it sounds and has English titles). The helpful Nikiszowiec Information Centre (open 10:00 - 17:30; Sat 11:00 - 14:30; closed Mon, Sun) is also in the same building, where you can get advice, pick up maps of the district and free audioguides in English, Polish or German.QY‑16, ul. Rymarska 4 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 353 95 59, www.mhk.katowice.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/8zł, family ticket 20zł. Tue free. U

Nikiszowiec

Courtesy of Katowice City Council

Kids & Families

Activities & Experiences If you’re looking for a more alternative way to see and experience Upper Silesia, or simply enjoy letting ‘the pros’ organise your time, check out the ideas below. More online at iyp.me/polandshop

ARTHOUSE CINEMAS KATOWICE

If you prefer going for the feel of independent communal cinemas halls, rather than the commercial feel of a cinema chain, then arthouse cinemas are the way to go. The arthouse cinema network is strong in Poland, and Katowice has its fair share of them run by Silesia Film, where you can watch high quality artistic movies, both International and Polish, from fiction to educational. While in Katowice, you have a choice of three great cinemas to choose from: Kino Kosmos, Rialto and Światowid, which we fully recommend you check out. Check their websites for all the latest events and screenings.QN‑12, ul. 3 Maja 7, www.silesiafilm.com.

PUBLIC ICE SKATING RINKS

As the cold weather draws in, unurprisingly, ice rinks become all the rage, and Katowice and the surrounding are full of them. The closest to you will be the outdoor rink in main market square (rynek, p.28) available from 22 Nov until Feb/Mar, the indoor rink to the rear of Spodek (p.32) from Sep-Apr and finally, the outdoor rink found at the main entrance to Silesia City Center (p.83) shopping mall. Equipment can be hired at all locations, and lessons are also available at Silesia City Center (must book at least one week in advance). Have fun and try not to fall over!QN‑12, Rynek.

FLYSPOT KATOWICE

One of only two Flyspot’s in Poland (the other being in Warsaw), enter the wind tunnel and spread your wings...or your arms, if you don’t have feathers. The wind tunnel is the same type used by professional skydivers and military for training, and now you get to try it out too. This is an experience you’re not likely to forget! Prices: 229zł (Mon-Thu) or 249zł (Fri-Sun) for adults, and 199zł (Mon-Thu) or 219zł (Fri-Sun) for those under 18. The price includes 2 flights in the freefall simulator/1.5 mins.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 100, tel. (+48) 698 62 65 00, www.flyspot.com. Open 08:00-22:00. 44

Poland KidsIn&Your Families Pocket Shop

Choose your ! own adventure

iyp.me/polandshop KOLEJKOWO - A WONDERFUL WORLD IN MINIATURE

All aboard Poland’s largest model railway, totalling 460m of track travelled by 12 trains! Not only that, the detailed displays show Silesian landmarks, scenes of daily Silesian life, and even a wild west mock-up, all spaced out over 900m2. Located in Gliwice’s ‘Shopping Centre Europa Centralna’, it’s easy to get to. Just east of the ‘Rynek’ (old town square) from bus stop ‘Gliwice Mikołowska’ on ul. Mikołowska city bus 232 will take you directly there in 15 mins.Qul. Pszczyńska 315, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 880 00 60 01, www.kolejkowo.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Admission 19/15zł. Group ticket (up to 15 people) 15zł/12zł.

LILY NAIL SPA

A lovely and relaxed interior, sharing the space with Thai Sabai, the mood is set for your treatment. On offer are a choice of manicures (20% off first visit) from hybrid, gel to classic with a huge selection of colours, pedicures and back massages! Highly professional and friendly service, your comfort is of the upmost importance. The nail spa is located in the mezzanine above the food court in Galeria Katowicka. Please note, during the Sunday trading ban, the spa is closed.QM‑12, ul. 3 maja 30 (Galeria Katowicka), tel. (+48) 577 81 80 88. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

THAI SABAI

It might look painful, but a Thai massage (acupressure mixed with assisted yoga) is a truly refreshing experience. Thai Sabai offer various services, from face, feet and leg massages, to a full body traditional Thai massage which costs 120zł. Each session lasts at least 1h. During your visit, you will experience the relaxed atmosphere with Thai music, aromatic oils, warm stones, facial peeling and masks. For the less faint-hearted, a gentler Balinese massage is available. Thai Sabai’s 2nd location is in Silesia City Center.QM‑12, ul. 3 maja 30 (Galeria Katowicka), tel. (+48) 577 81 80 88, www.thaisabai.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. 45

Kids & Families

Relax, this isn’t some crazy experiment, it’s Flyspot! (p.44)

Judging by first appearances, Katowice may not look like an obvious tourist destination for anyone, let alone kids. But this is a city which has undergone a huge transformation, resulting in a major kick-start to the cultural and leisure landscape. So, you’re here now with the younglings, who you can only expect to be quiet in museums for so long, and you can’t expect them to enjoy bars or clubs at all (if you did, your credentials as a parent may be called into question!). There must be something for kids to do in this town, right? Yup! What we’ve learned during our time exploring is that Katowice and the surrounding area has quite a lot of stuff for kids to see and enjoy, come rain or shine! To help you along, we’ve listed family-friendly destinations that covers indoor and outdoor options. Some venues are described in more detail elsewhere, so follow the references. Don’t worry, folks, we’ve got you covered.

HELPFUL HINTS Of course the first step to having a great family trip is to accept that what you want to do, and what your kids want to do are hardly one and the same. That said, there’s no reason you can’t find common ground in Katowice’s major attractions. Everyone has Industrial heritage/tourism in mind when they visit Kato, but that doesn’t have to mean it’s boring old buildings for the kids, oh no. If you choose to go the Silesian Museum (p.33), it’s super modern and will have the kids as interested in the multimedia elements 46

as you will be. There is, however, a limit to how many museums you can take the kids to, therefore, you’ll be glad to know the city has a bunch of kid-friendly venues up its sleeve (where you’ll no doubt have fun too)! If, perhaps, leisure is more your thing, then Multikino in Galeria Katowicka (M-12), Cinema City Silesia (p.83) and/or Cinema City Punkt 44 (with IMAX screens, K-11) to see the latest kids’ movies can be good for a rainy day. If you prefer more action packed indoor attractions, Katowice also has a Laserhouse (p.47), a Jump City (p.47) and a Flyspot (p.44) centre to get suited and booted to fly around in a wind chamber. Sometimes the best thing to do when there’s easy-tiring kids involved and you want to see as much as possible is to simply walk, or take advantage of good weather and ride a bike around the city. From Apr-Dec, the ‘City by Bike’ scheme is in effect, and with each year more bike paths being built, you’re spoilt for choice, with the only limitation being your own decision where you want to go. Riding around Downtown Katowice (p.28) is always an option, but you’ll have to tussle with pedestrians in the heart of the city, but heading to the Cultural Zone (p.32) is one option, from where you can even ride onward to the Nikiszowiec (p.40) district, if you’re all super fit! In the warmer months especially, the Valley of Three Ponds (p.35) is a welcome retreat for locals who want to get away from the bustle of the city centre, and we wholly

Kids & Families recommend a visit - it’s like another world entirely, perfect for loungers on the public beach areas of the lakes, but also a haven for keep fit and outdoor types, who wish to walk, run, roller skate or ride a bike. Another great idea is to head over to Silesia Park (p.36) - either by bus, tram or bike. Although this is now going beyond the official city limits of Katowice, the wider metropolitan area is well connected and you’ll barely notice where one city ends and the next one begins. Even if you choose to get to the park by bus or tram, when you get there, we’d recommend renting one of the aforementioned bikes if your aim is to see the whole park - it’s truly huge! Near the main entrance to Silesia Park is Poland’s oldest amusement park, Legendia (p.36). Your next port of call may be the Silesian Zoo (p.37) - it never fails to amuse the kids, especially the petting area and Dinosaur Valley! Getting there can be quite a novelty in itself as you can opt to ride the Narrow Gauge Railroad, which links the amusement park with the zoo, 1km away) or go further and traverse the park on the Elka Cableway (p.37). For the kids bursting with energy, going to the Silesian Rope Park is a safe choice! As for the sports obsessed children (and adults!), head over to the modernised Silesian Stadium where you can join a tour. In the far corner of the park, you may wish to visit the Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park, whose skansen (openair museum) showcases how rural life once looked in the region - one of the farms here even has animals (goats, sheep and horses), which the kids will love.

Pose for a family photo, like these camels, at the Silesian Zoo (p.36).

Going further afield, if you and the kids are interested in an altogether different experience, there are places across Silesia where you can go deep underground, to some truly great depths of some mines - 355m undergound in the Guido Mineshaft (p.51) in Zabrze, for example! Not only do you get to experience the dark depths of the earth, seeing how miners have worked throughout the centuries, you can try your hand at being a miner by using the very same equipment. In some cases, you can also travel through mine complexes by boat along underground rivers such as in the Black Trout Adit and the UNESCO World Heritage site, the Historic Silver Mines, both of which are in Tarnowskie Góry. A similar boat trip can be experienced in the Queen Louise Adit (p.51) in Zabrze, however, here there is also a child-friendly zone where the kids can learn about the history of the mines in a multimedia

Whistle while you work in the Queen Louise Adit (p.51).

Photo QLA

and fun focused manner. Not only are these unique places to visit, the kids, and you, will certainly have fun, while at the same time learning about the complexities of the mining industry, and how important it is to Silesia and its culture. Fun through learning, huh? If this is more your thing, check out our Industrial Tourism section (p.50) for more details. We hope you and your kids enjoy the city and the surrounding area, but no doubt even if you are here alone or only with adults, the kidult within you will certainly consider going to check out some of our recommendations, and why not? We all deserve to have fun!

INDOOR ATTRACTIONS JUMPCITY Are you hip to this? The newest fitness/recreation craze sweeping the globe (we’ve been told) is jumping like a madman around a room filled with trampolines and occasionally taking a dip into pits filled with foam. Release your inner six year old and literally bounce off the walls, ceilings and navigate some interesting obstacles. The perfect way to spend a rainy day, blow off some steam or just have some good old fashioned fun. Entrance is every hour and you must turn up 15 minutes before to get ready and have your anti-skid socks, available for purchase on the spot for 5zł.Qul. Tadeusza Kościuszki 227, tel. (+48) 32 781 88 84, www.jumpcity.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. Prices start from 32zł per session. LASERHOUSE This excellent 600m2 laser tag arena near the centre of Katowice is equipped with strobe lights, florescent graffiti, dry ice, dynamic music and elaborate backdrops to fully immerse gamers into an exciting futuristic world. Engage your opponents in a sci-fi shootout while using barrels and tyre pyramids for cover, or take a crack at the challenging laser maze (30 mins for 50zł) with varying levels of difficulty. Laser Tag games are 30mins and cost 20zł Mon-Thu before 15:00, 25zł after 15:00, and 20zł on a Friday before 15:00, 28zł after. Weekends are 28zł all day. Also at ul. Wojska Polskiego 47 in Sosnowiec, Pl. Tadeusza Kościuszki 1 (C.H. Agora) 3 floor in Bytom.and ul. Bolesława Chrobrego 6 in Rybnik.QL‑12, ul. Kamienna 9, tel. (+48) 32 229 00 21, www.laserhouse.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-22:00. 47

The impressive historic Silver Mines of Tarnowskie Góry. | Photo: Kopalnia Srebra, SMZT

Silesia is full of hearty food! Like this ‘wodzionka’ - stale bread and fat soup! | P. Lipecki

Dinner is served: ‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail The vibrant Silesian region is full of post-industrial tourism and nature trails for those that love be in the great outdoors, all of which you can read about in these very pages! But to see all the sights, you definitely need to keep those energy levels up with some tasty Silesian food. Thanks to the Silesian Tourism Organisation, you can enjoy sightseeing and taking part in leisurely activities all while following the ‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail. Mixing cuisine, cultural exchanges and pleasure is the aim of the game, so don’t miss out, and read on to learn more... 48

‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail WHAT TO EAT?

The mighty ‘rolada śląska’ (rolled beef patty).

Photo: ŚOT

For those of you who are accustomed to Polish cuisine, you may know that it’s truly hearty food full of meat and veg, but little do most people know about the diversity of Silesian cuisine (p.58), so much so, in fact, that the Silesian Tourism Organisation has created the ‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail with the aim of teaching and promoting the rich culinary traditions of the Silesian region. We’re all for it! There’s no better way to understand a region than to travel, meet its people, and taste their local delicacies! Travelling along the culinary trail, not only will you see tourist hotspots along the way, like Katowice, or the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland, to the Beskid Mountain Range, but you will get to try local cuisine in local restaurants that participate in ‘Silesian Tastes’.

SILESIAN TOURISM ORGANISATION So you’ve arrived in Katowice, had a look around in the city and surrounding area and thought to yourself ‘Wow, there’s more to this place than I first thought!’, and we would wholeheartedly agree. To this end, we encourage you to visit other areas of interest across the greater Silesian region and beyond - you will not be disappointed. There’s a lot to see, and Katowice is a great starting point for all trips. Whatever your interests, the Silesian Tourism Organisation (Śląska Organizacja Turystyczna) is a fantastic resource that can help you with your planning! Happily visit their site www.silesia.travel for in-depth information, or visit the tourist information office in Katowice’s main square for a wealth of useful resources and guides to the gems of the Silesian region.

Just when you thought you got the hang of Polish cuisine and the long names, Silesian cuisine takes you on an altogether different linguistic and culinary experience. So what’s best to try? Well, there are over 100 regional dishes you can test, but the most quintessential dishes are meat based, such as ‘rolada śląska’, a rolled beef patty filled with onions, bacon and pickles. This surprisingly tasty dish comes with some Silesian dumplings (‘kluski śląskie’) and red cabbage or fried sauerkraut on the side. ‘Żur śląski’, a sourdough soup but mixed with potatoes is equally popular, as are ‘krupnioki śląskie’, a blood sausage consisting of pig’s blood, pork offal and buckwheat. The taste sensations differ slightly across Silesia, and in the Częstochowa region, food is rich in vegetables and mushrooms, whereas in the mountainous Beskid region, pastoral foods are more prominent, from home reared meats to dairy products.

‘Żur śląski’ (sourdough soup).

Photo: ŚOT

WHERE TO EAT? A full list of participating venues can be found on the www. slaskiesmaki.pl website, however, if you’re out and about travelling through the Silesian region, you can also look out for the ‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail logo (below). If you’re in Katowice and are simply too eager to wait any longer to try some local cuisine, we have the following recommendations for you: In Katowice’s city centre, SmaQ Food & Wine Restaurant (p.72), found inside Q Hotel Plus Katowice is the first stop for any tastey Silesian delights, and not far away towards the Cultural Zone (p.32), two more venues in the form of Sunlight Restaurant in Vienna House Easy Katowice (p.85) and Moodro Restaurant (p.73) in the Silesian Museum (p.33) complex will provide the perfect setting. Finally, but not least, heading in the direction of Silesia Park (p.36), definitely visit Kuchnia Otwarta Restaurant (p.72) in the Park Inn by Radisson Katowice.Qwww.slaskiesmaki.pl.

Silesian Region Tourist Information Site: www.slaskie.travel ‘Silesian Tastes’ Culinary Trail: www.slaskiesmaki.pl Beskid Mountains and Silesian Cieszyn: www.beskidy.travel The Eagles’ Nests Trail: www.orlegniazda.pl The Industrial Monuments Trail: www.zabytkitechniki.pl Kraków-Częstochowa Upland Site: www.jura.travel 49

Industrial Tourism

Lull the kids into a false sense of security before putting them to work in the mines! | Photo: Queen Louise Adit

While such a prediction may have raised eyebrows only twenty years ago (we should know, we started publishing tourist guides to PL in 2000), today Poland has established itself (with our help, of course) as a bona fide tourist destination - a fact not lost on the flocks of weekend breakers who descend each weekend on its marzipan Old Towns. Taking pride of place is Kraków, with it’s enormous market square, castle and UNESCO-listed city centre, but Gdańsk, Wrocław and Poznań have each established themselves as fixtures on the backpacker map, thanks to historic centres that could well have been designed by a team consisting of Hans Christian Anderson and the good Mr. Kipling. Even Warsaw, once famed for its bleak, desolate boulevards, has generated a reputation as one of New Europe’s liveliest capitals. So what of Katowice then, or the region of Upper Silesia as a whole? A quick glance around is enough to suggest that works by Da Vinci will be tough to find here, so it’s with a fair degree of astonishment that most visitors learn that the Silesian landscape – dotted with its derelict factories and overgrown slagheaps – is something of a tourist goldmine (emphasis on ‘mine’). Transformed by the Industrial Revolution in the second half of the 19th century, what had previously been an idyllic rural backdrop suddenly found itself the focus of corpulent industrialists looking to make their fortunes from the coal and steel discovered here. Up went the factories and the chimney stacks, followed by huge migratory waves of people – both German and Polish – as everyone from balding fat cats to scruffy urchins looked to make coin and careers out of the newly 50

discovered resources. From thereon the region took on the appearance of an L.S. Lowry picture, its fledgling cities filled with blackened buildings and shuffling matchstick figures. The scorched earth policy followed by Hitler in the final years of WWII did little to dent Upper Silesia’s industrial importance. The communist authorities knew they had inherited a veritable wealth of mineral riches, and set about exploiting them to the max. Quickly becoming an environmental black spot, the region was fast heading for ecological catastrophe, a fate only narrowly averted by the collapse of the political system in 1989. Somewhat amazingly, and thanks in no small part to the ongoing cooperation between local government and foreign institutions, the ecological balance of the area has been restored to safe levels today. What’s more, it’s now possible for the intrepid tourist to explore the very facilities that made Silesia – and nearly destroyed it. Below we list the most interesting industrial heritage sites throughout the region, but enthusiasts are urged to get hold of a copy of the excellent ‘Silesian Industrial Monuments Route’ (Szlak Zabytków Techniki Województwa Śląskiego) - a multilingual pamphlet containing literally dozens of sites, which can be picked up for free in any Tourist Information points.

INDUSTRIAL MONUMENTS ROUTE zabytkitechniki.pl

Industrial Tourism IN ZABRZE GUIDO MINESHAFT Constructed in 1855, a visit to Zabrze’s Guido Coal Mine allows hard-hatted adventurers to plunge an initial 170 metres below ground, via a rattling cage elevator, while learning about the world of coal extraction. From there it’s non-stop action as visitors view numerous tunnels and shafts that look just like they did at the height of the Industrial Revolution. Three separate tours are available, each descending deeper into the mine and with more protective gear required (included in the price). Along the way are numerous pieces of clunky, rusty machinery, including drainage pumps from 1914 and various drilling equipment that looks like it could have played a part in that hangover you had on New Years’ Day. This is a full-on interactive masterpiece that doesn’t just settle for displays of Davy Lamps and long-dead equipment. Of course it does that, but it also goes further with sound effects (braying horses and equipment going ‘kerchung, kerchung’), and a separate ‘art floor’ consisting of multimedia exhibits and cinematic presentations. The descent continues to -320m where you can travel by the wuppertale suspension railway, visit Europe’s deepest underground bar, Pub 320, in the Pump Hall (separate 10zł ticket), or maybe even see a concert, exhibition or other cultural event which are often held here. Going further still to -355m, this is where you get to roll your sleeves up and experience the real life of a miner using various pieces of equipment, under the watchful eye of former miners. All visits to Guido are conducted with a tour guide; Polish tours cost 50zł, English 90zł; tours in any other language must be booked in advance by phone (50zł/ person, plus 210zł group fee for the translator). To get to the mine from the centre of Zabrze take regular buses 7, 23, 47, 111, 198 or 199, getting off at ‘Guido Kopalnia Zabytkowa;’ the trip takes 10mins.Qul. 3 Maja 93, Zabrze (Centrum Południe), tel. (+48) 32 271 40 77, www. kopalniaguido.pl. Open 08:30-19:30; Tue, Wed 09:0018:00; closed Mon. Please call in advance. Guido Shaft tour (-170m/-320m) 50/45zł. ‘The Dark’ tour (-355m) 60zł. ‘Shift’ tour (-355m) 99zł. Pub Visit 10zł.

Get suited and booted like a true miner in Guido Mineshaft!

Photo: A. Wróblewska

QUEEN LOUISE ADIT The Queen Louise (Królowa Luiza) Mine opened for business in 1791, one year after Salomon Izaak first discovered coal below the ground. One of the oldest mines in the region, your visit starts off at ground level where you’ll find chunky pieces of machinery, pistons, dials, pipes, photo displays and other industrial detritus clustered around the old ‘Karnell’ shaft. Pride of place goes to a steam-powered hoist that made its debut in 1915 to a design born in Duelmen, Germany; such was the quality of the workmanship that it continued to be used until 1990. Every bit as impressive is the 30 metre hoist next to it; open to visitors, sweeping views of the city can be had from the top. Other points of interest include machinery salvaged from now-defunct mines, an underground machine park, and a monument honouring miners from 1850. The underground sections are split into three levels for visitors, the first of which is a boat trip along an underground river spanning 1130m, while a guide explains the history and culture of the mine. At the 2nd level, 40m below ground, you are shown the technologies used for mining over the last 200 years, right up to the huge machinery of the 21st century. The third and final level is family orientated, specifically for kids, with multimedia elements teaching the history of the mine and the people who worked there. Tours in English are available for an additional cost of 105zł, but you must book in advance via their website or by phone.Qul. Wolności 410, Zabrze (Zaborze Północ), tel. (+48) 32 271 40 77, www.sztolnialuiza.pl. Open 08:3017:30. Tourist Water Trail 60/40zł. Tourist Trail 45zł/35zł. Underground Treasures 35zł/25zł.

GETTING TO ZABRZE Few things in life are easier than getting to Zabrze from Katowice. Trains are frequent between the two cities and depending on which you get on your journey time will be anything from 20 to 30 minutes with tickets retailing from approximately 5-15zł. The train station is located smack in the centre of town at Pl. Dworcowy 2 and is a tiny and typically cheerless affair featuring one track and two ticket windows - one open 6:00 - 21:30 (Koleje Śląskie) and the other 05:15 - 21:30 (Intercity). Credit cards are not accepted and, fittingly, there’s no ATM. However help isn’t far away as the tourist info office on ul. Powstańców Śląskich 2/1 (open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.) will be more than happy to tell you where the nearest bank machine is. Also in the station itself are a few kiosks, food stands and slot machines, as well as the obligingly grim train station bar and a large secondhand clothing store. If travelling by car, approaching from the east (Katowice) or west (Germany), you’ll likely do so via the A4 freeway. Take the exit just before (if coming from Katowice) or just after (if coming from Germany) Gliwice - ul. Wspólna - and follow the signs to Zabrze. 51

Industrial Tourism IN TARNOWSKIE GÓRY

IN KATOWICE ZINC ROLLING MILL If you haven’t noticed already, Katowice, and Silesia as a whole, is big on industrial tourism. If this is where your interests lie, then ‘Walcownia Cynku’ (Zinc Metallurgy Museum) will be right up your street! Originally opened in 1904 near Huta Bernhard (Bernhard Steelworks), the Zinc rolling mill hall (91x20m) and the engine Room (70x6m) functioned right up until 2002! The interior is filled with the majority of theoriginal machinery, so walking around, you have an opportunity to soak up the atmosphere of the place. The main function of Walcownia today is as a museum, which also contains a collection of American motorcycles, and hosts cultural and corporate events. For photographers or filmographers, you simply won’t find a better, more unique backdrop. To get there, take trams 14, 15 & 20 to the ‘Szopienice Roździenska’ stop, from where it is only a 5min walk away.Qul. 11 Listopada 50, tel. (+48) 727 60 01 86, www.walcownia.org. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/13zł. Family ticket available. Children under 3 enter for free. Tue free. Guided tours available in English and German (call in advance to book). U

The impressive historic Silver Mines of Tarnowskie Góry.

Photo: Kopalnia Srebra, SMZT

TARNOWSKIE GÓRY MINES You may have noticed that Silesia is big on post-industrial tourism - it has a lot to offer! Just 30km north-west of Katowice, there are more than 20 post-mining sites around Tarnowskie Góry, and part of Bytom, connected to iron, lead and silver mining, and also a water drainage network for you to visit. The ‘Historic Silver Mines in Tarnowskie Góry’, a UNESCO world heritage site since 2017, are 1740m in length, 270m of which you will see by boat. You will see old mining tools and equipment used here in the 18th/19th centuries. The 2nd major site is the Black Trout Adit, home to Poland’s longest underground tourist trail, coming in at 600m, the entirety of which you travel with a guide by boat, as they regale you with history and tales. Other attractions in the area include the city park, the spoil heap of the former Fryderyk mine, and the postmining landscape of Srebrna Góra (translated as ‘Silver hill’).Qul. Szczęść Boże 81, Tarnowskie Góry.

Porcelain Factory

Zinc Rolling Mill

PORCELAIN FACTORY One of the more prominent sites in Katowice connected to the Industrial Monuments Route (p.50), Fabryka Porcelany has been here since the 1920s and was originally the Giesche porcelain factory - you can take a wild guess as to what was produced here, ahem. The modern day site is now run by the Giesche Foundation which has transformed the site to be a modern industrial and technological park housing design offices, art galleries, interior design and porcelain shops, a concert/event venue, and of course, somewhere for you to relax and refuel in two gastronomical venues (Prodiż Bistro and Prodiż Nero Restaurant). Impressively, despite the big changes here, the site is deeply rooted in history to its former function and still has a working furnace involved with production! A mix of the old and the new, just as we like it! To learn more about this revamped post-industrial site, check out our section dedicated to Fabryka Porcelany on p.38.QU‑13, ul. Porcelanowa 23, www.fabryka-porcelany.pl.

Auschwitz-Birkenau

For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed with WWII when Oświęcim, known as ‘Auschwitz’ under German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here, etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history books and countless films, documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective consciousness.

presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter how much you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should visit.

Visitors to Kraków and Katowice are faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There are few who would say they actually ‘want’ to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us who don’t feel so compelled, it’s easy to give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until you’ve actually visited the site; you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.

VISITING AUSCHWITZ

The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion, poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is 54

If you’ve decided to visit Auschwitz, you basically have three options: 1) visit as part of a group organised by a tourist agency, 2) visit independently and join a guided tour at the museum, or 3) visit independently for free without a guide. Unfortunately, the latter two options are now much more difficult, as all visits must now be booked in advance through the website visit.auschwitz.org. As a result, you may find there are no tickets available because they have all been snatched up by tourist agencies. Failure to book online doesn’t mean you can’t visit Auschwitz when you want, but it does basically force you to sign up for a tour through an outside provider. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as it relieves you of the hassle of figuring out how to get there and back, but you will essentially be paying a surcharge for the service. For most people, however, it is worth it. If you are determined to visit Auschwitz I independently you need to know that during peak season (March 1 October 31) the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and become part of a 3.5hr guided tour, unless you

Auschwitz-Birkenau get there before 10:00 or after 16:00 (from November after 13:00) - at which times it is possible to visit for free on your own (note that last entrance to Auschwitz I is 1.5hrs before closing; Auschwitz II is always free to independent visitors). Even if visiting independently for free, you still need a ‘free ticket’ from the ticket office. Be that as it may, we strongly recommend the official guided tour, which is excellent, profound and professional; afterwards you’ll find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored the grounds on your own. Tour departure times fluctuate, but tours in English depart frequently; check online for exact schedule. Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum on your own can be chaotic and confusing thanks to large crowds and unclear signage. If you are visiting independently, or in a small group, head for the queue in front of the desk marked ‘Individual Guests;’ if it’s peak season (March 1 - Oct. 31) and you don’t already have tickets (not recommended), you must first visit the white Info box located outside the entrance. Once you’re through the queues, your experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945 (an additional 6/3zł, but recommended). The film is not guaranteed however, so in some cases your tour will begin straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear through your headphones. If you intend to explore Auschwitz without a guide, we recommend that you give yourself several hours to explore both camps, and that you pick up the official guidebook (10zł) whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites. Visiting Auschwitz is a full day’s excursion so prepare accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure you’ve eaten breakfast. After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day (though there is some limited food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food bar and a restaurant; there are also restrooms at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. Note that only small bags are allowed into Auschwitz I; if your bag exceeds the very small dimensions of 30x20x10cm, you’ll have to leave it somewhere; lockers are provided for this purpose. Qul. Stanisławy Leszczyńskiej 11, Oświęcim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Open 07:30-16:30. In December open 07:30-15:30. In January open 07:3016:30. In February open 07:30-17:30. Last entrance 1.5hrs before closing. Auschwitz is not recommended for those under 14 years old. An individual ticket for a foreign language guided tour of both camps costs 60/55zł. Admission without a guide (when possible) to either camp is free. The film at Auschwitz I costs 6/3zł.

GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ

Auschwitz II - Birkenau Photo by Alana de Haan; alanacdehaan.com

The town of Oświęcim lies 33km south-east of Katowice and there are several ways of getting there, though the easiest may be just signing on for an organised tour through a local company like Silesia Trip (p.27). Direct trains go every couple of hours from Katowice central station and there are numerous bus options both big and small. Buses leave frequently from Katowice’s main bus station (M-11, ul. Skargi 1) every day starting at 08:00. A one way ticket costs about 9-20zł with the journey taking 60-70mins (prices and times depend on the company). The buses make several stops along the way, and most weekday will drop you off at the Oświęcim train station (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 22), which is 1.5km away. From there hop on local buses 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 or 29 to make the short trip to the museum; you can purchase the 2.70zł fare from one of the nearby kiosks. Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-Birkenau are located 3km apart (with the train station strategically between them). Between Nov-Feb there is a free museum bus which shuttles visitors between the two parts of the camp every 30 minutes during weekdays from 10:00 (every 10 mins at weekends), with the last bus being at 16:10 (check upon arrival for schedule). Alternatively, catch a cab for a rich 15zł. To get back to Katowice, waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31 50 77) can be found outside either camp - a group of eight would pay about 30zł/ person. Otherwise you need to catch a bus from the Oświęcim train station. Again, local buses 19, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 or 29 make the trip from Auschwitz I to the train station for 2.70zł. Buses from there back to Katowice are frequent, but the last one leaves at 16:48 Mon-Sun.

BOOK A TOUR 55

Cafés

Katowice Cafes Katowice has some pretty cool cafes, with the standard well and truly raised high in the last few years. We’ve chosen a handful of our favourites for you, which we sure you’ll love. Happy eatin’...

3 SIOSTRY BAJGIEL I KAWA

This trendy and friendly cafe makes Montreal style bagels (a bit sweeter and thicker than their NYC counterparts) and serves them in a variety of savoury sandwich forms (egg and bacon, Philadelphia cream cheese with salmon and arugula etc.) We had a hankering for Philadelphia so we chose the latter and our smile got wider with every bite. We could have sat for hours just observing the flow of happy diners and playful banter between the ‘three sisters’ who cook and serve with passion.QO‑12, ul. Św. Stanisława 8, tel. (+48) 512 92 84 58. Open 08:00-20:00; Fri 08:00-21:00; Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-19:00. T6

BAR MONOPOL

Inside the hotel of the same name the Monopol’s in-house café bar offers decent coffee and plenty of class with an interior that recalls Katowice’s golden age. Here it’s all fresh cut flowers, marble surfaces and sepia images of the city in its industrial heyday. Floorto-ceiling windows encourage hurrying passersby to gaze in with envy. This is definitely one of the classier cafes you can step foot in whilst in Katowice, so make the most of it and spend some time here. QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 08:0023:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-22:00. U6

COFFEE-JKA

All-day-breakfast! There, I said it. Quite a rare concept in Poland is now finally beginning to spread, and Coffee-jka is one of those taking the big leap. A nice cafe with plenty of seating, they have a nice selection of coffees, teas, smoothies, scrambled egg and omelette options, bagels, vegan burgers, sandwiches, and of course, sweet treats like homemade cakes. Coffee-jka is right on the street corner, just south of the Rynek (p.28), and perfect for stopping in to relax or for grabbing your fix for on the go.QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 21, tel. (+48) 665 85 83 10. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-20:00. T6i 56

Cafés

Awesome buns in Monique Bakery & Wine.

EKSPEDYCJA COFFEEHOUSE

Ekspedycja (Expedition) is themed on historical exploration, going back to the days of venturing out to discover new worlds and cultures. Once inside you will find the interior filled with old maps, paintings and paraphernalia connected with exploration and tea. More than a place to get some tea and coffee (they have a fine selection to drink on the spot or take home), this is a place to chill out with some board games and books, all provided, in various languages, encouraging you to engage and to learn. What a great idea!QN‑12, ul. Teatralna 12. Open 11:00-20:00; Fri 11:0022:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-20:00.

KAWOSZ

Entering Kawosz is quite a sight in itself - no, you haven’t walked in on the aftermath of a Hogwarts’ lesson. The interior is quite sparse, but what little they have is quite funkily placed - reproductions of famous paintings with covered faces, all in the aim of ‘upcycling’, or creative reuse. They have short ‘to the point’ lunch and breakfast menus, and cakes, which fill a tasty spot. As for the coffee, you have speciality on offer. Each table has power sockets for all you laptop and phone people. Sparse but tasty best sums up Kawosz. QM‑12, ul. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 501 64 58 02. Open 08:0020:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. T6

ORGANIC COFFEE & MORE

This unassuming little den hides away a really organic setting, with bare interior, natural looking furniture and decorations (don’t swing on the ropes). Everything on offer is made from organically sourced ingredients, to keep you at ease about what you’re putting in your body; from great coffees, smoothies, desserts, breakfast and lunch sets. When you finish your jar of goodies, take it away with you (along with the booklet explaining how you can re-use it), all in the good cause of encouraging zero waste. Awesome.QO‑12, ul. Mielęckiego 10, tel. (+48) 737 85 58 32, www.organiccoffee. pl. Open 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. T6 57

Traditional Silesian Dishes

Rolada Śląska | Courtesy of Restauracja Wiejska Chatka

A blue-collar region of miners and miners’ daughters, few places are as well suited to the nation’s traditional peasant fare of potatoes, cutlets and cabbage as Silesia. But that’s not the end of it, for as good as the traditional style of Silesian food is, in places like Chata z Zalipia, Patio and Wiejska Chatka, to modern takes on old favourites are popping up too, and nowhere else is this more true than in ISTO, with the chef’s own artistic style showing through with each unique dish. So what have the locals contributed to national cuisine?

ROLADA ŚLĄSKA

As for main courses, your pervasive regional entrée for the brave has to be Silesian beef rolades, or ‘rolada śląska’ – a rolled beef patty filled with onions, bacon and pickles. This surprisingly tasty dish with some kluski and red cabbage or fried sauerkraut on the side is as Silesian as it gets.

KLUSKI ŚLĄSKIE

Silesian noodles, known locally as ‘kluski śląskie’, are at the top of any Silesian culinary itinerary. Essentially a pierogi (dumping) with no filling, these pillowy potato flour doughballs are served as a side dish almost everywhere, often with mushroom gravy or fried fat and bacon bits on top. With a chewy texture and typically bland flavour, kluski literally stick to your ribs and set like cement in your stomach. Karminadle

KARMINADLE

Kluski Śląskie with meat and veg!

Photo: Adobe Stock

What are essentially pork meatballs, the national version being called ‘kotlety mielone’, the Silesian version karminadle were in the past only served during the holidays, a bit of a treat, and were often made from rabbit meat, due to the popularity of rabbit rearing. Today, although often made from pork, you can also eat pork-beef mixes, either hot served with potatoe purée, or cold, with bread.

Traditional Silesian Dishes

Silesian Food is certainly stocky! Courtesy of Restauracja Wiejska Chatka

CIAPKAPUSTA

We did say Silesian food was heavy on meat and vegetables and ciapkapusta is the ultimate fusion! Potatoe purée is simply mixed with sauerkraut (kapusta kiszona), bacon, sausage and onion. As simple as that. Although it can be a main meal in itself, it’s often served as a side to a main meat dish (usually ribs).

Krupnioki

KRUPNIOKI ŚLĄSKIE

This blood sausage consists of pig’s blood, pork offal (85%) and buckwheat (15%). You may already know the national variety ‘kaszanka’, with both being almost identical, only differing by name. Krupnioki have been associated with Silesia since the 17th century as they provided miners with a quick, highly calorific source of food to give them enough energy to carry out their hard work. They are more associated today with traditional dishes served during the holidays.

ŻUR ŚLĄSKI

A traditional Slavic sourdough soup, a popular regional phenomena with various methods of serving; some regions of Poland serve it over boiled potatoes in a bread bowl, or even with a boiled egg, whereas in Silesia, Żur Śląski is poured over mashed potatoes! WHERE TO EAT MORE? For hardcore foodies, or for anyone travelling in Silesia, it’s advisable to try as much of the local cuisine as possible - we’ve only given you a snippet of what’s on offer. To help you out on your food travels, the Silesian Tourist Organisation has this very need in mind with their ‘Silesian Tastes’ culinary trail. It’s definitely worth checking out at www.slaskiesmaki.pl. 59

Restaurants

The traditional ‘kotlet schabowy’ (pork cutlet) with fried cabbage from Wiejska Chatka (p.72).

Silesia is known to many as a sprawling post-industrial metropolis that is more akin to a culinary wasteland than a growing centre of world-class cuisine for cunning connoisseurs. The last few years have brought drastic changes to the once dreary dining scene and the service industry can now join the esteemed ranks of the coal and steel industries in the area. Many culinary trends have taken hold and ethnic cuisine of all shapes and sizes are vying for your attention and appealing to your appetite. Don’t overlook the local fare either as there is a veritable renaissance happening in Silesian cuisine as well as a plethora of Polish places. Tipping at least 10% for table service is customary, though it may not always be deserved. Smacznego! FINE DINING Exclusive restaurants in Katowice come in a range of forms, from serving a mix of international and local cuisine, with varied interior decors and food on offer; all a treat to test out. Leading the way in Kato’s gastronomical revolution, we have a few contenders: If it’s post-industrial decor and good meat you’re after, check out Moodro Restaurant (p.73). If you like to eat high up and closer to the sun, try Cristallo (p.69) with its seasonal menu. Tatiana (p.68) just up from the Rynek serves a mix of European and Slavic dishes in a very pleasant and elegant setting. INTERNATIONAL The gastro revolution is not limited to traditional or local cuisine, as with any destination, choice is the key, and we certainly have that with a host of international eateries in Kato. If you’re searching for Indian food ranging from mild 60

to spicy, try out Buddha (p.64)! Nearer the centre, Novo (p.69) has a rather impressive looking stone baked oven which churns out all your favourite delights with authentic taste. Amfora Restaurant & Cocktail Bar (p.70) offers some Middle-Eastern flare right in the city centre, with the food being really good, and the cocktails equally as exciting as the former! FAST CASUAL If it’s something relatively quick you want and at decent prices without scimping back on quality, Kato has a lot to offer in this regard, and some of our noted adventures have highlighted the following: making the leap from food truck to having a real home, Little Hanoi...and More (p.62) serves up some great Asian food. Pasibus (p.61) is hot on the heels of the good burger trend in Poland and Bujna (p.72) provides a good vegetarian option. If you’re craving some great vegetarian/vegan friendly dishes in a cafe/bistro style, then Morcinka 3A (p.72) is the perfect place to go! FAMILY DINING Family options too are easily found in Kato, serving food from more adventurous meals for adults and classics for kids. First to mention following its recent renovation is Patio (p.66), which does just that with various meats dishes, pizzas, pastas etc. Steakhouse Da Da (p.68) is straight to the point, offering fine steak cuts from around the world, all served by friendly staff. For an authentic Polish feel, Chata Zalipia (p.71) serves up traditional Polish food in a design reminiscent of a cottage interior, one for all to enjoy.

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY

Stanisława 1 Armii Krajowej 81 Panewnicka 25 A

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

tel. 511 433 663 • www.hurrycurry.pl

E Live music

X Smoking room available

Curries from all over the world

o Year-round Garden

N-12

Map Coordinate

AMERICAN PASIBUS Located on the top floor of Galeria Katowicka near the food court, the entrance to Pasibus moulds seamlessly between shopping centre and restaurant. Turn around from the shoppers and you could easily you’re in a shopping centre. The food is great, ranging in price from 9-25zł, and it hits the tasty spot. Various meat and veg burger options are available, accompanied a wow collection of sauces - red curry paste, chilli, and habanero, and other unconventional ingredients such as sun-dried tomato and cranberry paste, plum-ginger chutney. 2nd location found in ‘Stary Dworzec’ on ul. Dworcowa 4.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 30 (Galeria Katowicka), tel. (+48) 511 41 56 50, www. pasibus.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. €. T6

ASIAN HANA SUSHI A former swimming pool attached to one of Katowice’s closed coal mines, this lovely brick building has been refitted to house the city’s best sushi house and Japanese restaurant. With the added advantage of being at the Silesia City Centre, yet sovereign over its own independent space and atmosphere (they even have their own separate parking next door), Hana Sushi boasts a rich menu rife with Japanese delicacies and hot dishes for those still suspicious of the sushi fad. If you don’t feel like making your way to Silesia’s biggest shopping mall. QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 109, tel. (+48) 32 605 09 77, www.hanasushi.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€€. TU HURRY CURRY Bringing some heat to the street and some spice to Katovice, this hot spot is turning heads and filling stomachs. Started by a couple of travellers with the simple idea of offering a selection of curries from all over the world served up quick and sold for cheap. The results are utterly delicious and borderline revolutionary for the city’s budding ethnic restaurant scene. With a limited but diverse menu, you’ll find something new just for you. The design is cosy yet cool and the service is quick so even if you’re in a hurry you can make time for their curry. Top marks all around. Also at at ul. Panewnicka 25A and ul. Armii Krajowej 81.QO‑12, ul. Św. Stanisława 1, tel. (+48) 511 43 36 63, www.hurrycurry.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. 6

DECODING THE MENU Since one of the main things you’re likely to be doing while in town is eating, here are a few words you’re likely to encounter on any menu in town. Smacznego! (Enjoy your meal!) śniadania breakfast zupa soup przystawki appetisers dania główne main dishes dodatki side dishes ziemniaki potatoes kapusta cabbage ser cheese chleb bread warzywa vegetables owoce fruit mięso meat kurczak chicken wieprzowina pork wołowina beef ryba fish deser dessert ciasto cake lody ice cream napoje drinks kawa coffee piwo beer 61

Restaurants Restaurant Catering Sushi Workshops Events

Mielęckiego 6 phone +48 32 2042770

www.sakana.pl TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment. Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. 62

LITTLE HANOI...AND MORE! Set on a pedestrianised street in the heart of Katowice within walking distance of the train station and Katowice’s ‘Market Square,’ Little Hanoi is a welcome departure from eating dumplings, or even the low-standard Chinese restaurants found across the country. Granted, the minimal décor containing the obligatory lanterns, decent Vietnamese dishes and friendly staff are not unique in Poland, but as far as eating options in central Katowice go, this is a definite step in the right direction. The spicy soup was a solid beginning, the ribs were delicious and their signature Duck “Little Hanoi” style was to-die-for! Wash it down with a nice drink, and like us, you’ll be fortified for the evening ahead with hardly a dent made in your wallet.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 4, tel. (+48) 886 62 33 88, www.littlehanoi.eu. Open 13:30-23:00; Sun 13:30-21:00. €€€. U OH MY RAMEN NEW Just a stone’s throw away from the market square (rynek), Oh My Ramen is continuing an impressive trend in Poland for top quality Ramen. The interior is modern but sparse, with a wall mural of a Geisha gracefully watching you throughout your visit. The menu focuses on a fey key items, with a handful of starters from Chinese dumplings, ribs or salad, to the main Ramen dishes, which includes 3 meaty and 2 vegan options (made by separate chefs). Shoyo Saitama style with carmelised bacon it was to be, and it was a damn good choice, being big and hearty, passing the taste test. As for dessert, the Mochi, a traditional Japanese sticky rice cake went down well with green tea! Lunch sets (available Tue-Fri 12:00-15:00). Recommended.QN‑12, ul. Pocztowa 10. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. €€. SAKANA SUSHI BAR If you happen to be a well travelled sushi fan then you’re probably already familiar with the Sakana brand. With outlets in Poznań, Wrocław, Kraków and Warsaw, the Katowice branch offers the same high quality service, bright and bamboo accented interior and of course exquisite sushi. Experts at the sushi game, they also have a few innovations, such as the never-ending conveyer boat of sushi (pay by the plate), offsite catering, and you can even order your meal online. Enjoy a cleansing kimchi soup, food from their Japanese grill (fish and beef) or opt for expertly prepared sets of Californian maki. They now offer lunch specials MonFri 12:00 - 16:00 for 29zł (business option 9 futomaki + soup), or 19zł (standard option of 9 futomaki), plus brunch on Sun 13:00 - 17:00 for 79zł during which times kids aged 7-12 can partake in a sushi making workshop - amazing! If it’s sushi you seek, head to Sakana – sumptuous and sleek.QO‑12, ul. Mielęckiego 6, tel. (+48) 32 204 27 70, www.sakana.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. €€. T

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Restaurants CZECH HOSPODA History and geography have preordained close ties between Silesia and the Czech Republic. While ‘close’ doesn’t always mean friendly, this hopping Hospoda could downright double as the Czech Embassy for all the love it shows to their southern neighbours. Of course the first test of a true Czech pub is its beer selection. Hospoda passes with flying colours with delicious Bohemian brews like Kozel Dark and Pilsner on tap plus at least 25 other bottles on deck (Gambrinus, Radegast, Budvar and a boatload more). If you’re wondering about the grub, czech out their classic fried cheese, garlic soup and goulash with langosz. If you’ve never been to Prague, just throw on a Walkman with some Jaromir Nohavica, curl up in a corner with a dark Kozel or two and prepare to be telePortered.QL‑11, ul. Gliwicka 6/1 (entrance from ul. Sobieskiego), tel. (+48) 793 89 65 30, www.hospoda.pl. Open 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00. €. X

FRENCH C’EST SI BON Certainly one of Katowice’s finer restaurants, the service may not be as cheerful as the interior full of lavender plants, lilac table clothes, candleholders and sun icons, but the food is top-notch, as testified by the long list of companies C’est Si Bon does regular catering for. The menu is in Polish, French and English, and still full of rich, delicious dishes like the onion soup with gruyere cheese for just 12zł. Bon Apetite!QM‑13, ul. Ligonia 4, tel. (+48) 32 781 68 48, www.cestsibon.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. U6

FUSION SZTOLNIA. CHLEB. MIĘSO. WINO Someone forgot to tell Poland that restaurants near Malls are supposed to be bland, corporate run, flair-wearing affairs only. Sztolnia not only blows that notion out of the water, but it’s one of the best restaurants in town. One look at their open concept industrial-yet-rustic, dining room and you’ll begin to see why. After a very recent renovation, the dining area has been expanded, and the restaurant now has a confectionery section, winery, and banquet hall all held in a huge 1000m2 space! Once you’ve settled and had a look at the laid back and eclectic menu filled with fusion treats and grilled aged meats, they’ll have won you over. And once you’re served your meal, they’ll have fully sealed the deal. Hand to heart, our perfect Angus beef steak, grilled potatoes, selection of green salad leaves, cheese sauce was impeccable. They also serve a 3-course lunch Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00 for 33zł. Silesia City Center just got a whole lot closer.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 109 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 506 78 87 75, www.sztolnia.katowice.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. TU

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Restaurants GERMAN WUNDERBAR A pleasing bar-restaurant kitted out with pots, pans, chiming clocks and all manner of assorted country trumpery. The menu here is pretty much as you expect from a Bavarian themed eatery with a bit of a Polish twist. Try the Krupnik soup with goose stomachs or the half duck baked with apples. If you really mean business then try the Baked Pork Knuckle on for size. Wash it all down with some tried and true German brew - wheat Weihenstephan or Weihenstephan Pils.QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 2, tel. (+48) 32 781 76 90, www.wunderbar.pl. Open 13:00-23:00. €€. T

GREEK SOUVLAKI BAR Here’s a first for Katowice (it’s becoming a trend in the city, huh?) - a Greek food place! If you’ve ever been to Greece and miss the food (or haven’t, and want to test the food culture), here’s a great place to start, without actually going to the country! It’s not just about the food, it’s the approach - you don’t have to go to the best restaurant to eat good food, and in Greece, a popular option is just to eat some Souvlaki from a street food bar. I’ll be honest, I love this style. Souvlaki Bar is a small eatery, and feels like an Athens quick food bar. The owners live in Athens and very much want to bring this style to Katowice, and why the hell not? It’s awesome. Try horiatiki, tzatziki, and anything with grilled halloumi!QO‑20, ul. Francuska 2, tel. (+48) 533 33 83 89. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00; closed Mon. €€. T6

HUNGARIAN ZAKLĘTY CZARDASZ Certainly one of Katowice’s finest and most unheralded restaurants, this aromatic Hungarian effort serves excellent ethnic cuisine in elegant surroundings with wicker lampshades, latticework and vines. The enticing menu offers a dozen ways to enjoy their delicious goulash (trust us, you’ll be licking the cutlery), plus steaks with Hungarian sides, potato pancakes, pork loin, fish and more - all complemented ideally by Hungarian wines and tokajs from their adjoining shop. Portions are positively huge, with food practically spilling over the edges of the plate, and it’s worth noting that you can ask for many of them in a smaller amount. A cellar wine bar only makes us more enthusiastic to recommend this place than ever before.QM‑13, ul. Kopernika 9, tel. (+48) 32 257 01 32, www.czardasz.com. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. U

INDIAN BUDDHA The Indian owned and operated Buddha has brought authentic ethnic food to Katowice. Marked by great service and richly furnished with elegant antiques, tapestries, tiles and gold silk place-settings, Buddha has a head start before the food even arrives and fails to disappoint in that 64

department as well. If it says it’s spicy (gasp!) it actually is, the curries are rich and portions are more than healthy. If you’re looking for a midweek fix don’t miss their new lunch menu (Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00) for just 20 PLN! Overall a fine effort and more than worth the total on the check, which arrives in a hand-crafted box. They also offer catering and delivery services.QM‑13, ul. Drzymały 9, tel. (+48) 726 11 12 22, www.buddha-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. T INDIA GARDEN RESTAURANT & CATERING We try to keep our informative descriptions as straight to the point as possible. Why should we waffle on when a few simple words sum up a place perfectly? The owners advertise their venture as ‘an interesting springboard from everyday Polish food’. They’re right. And not without basis, as India Garden is brought to you by the popular Buddha Indian restaurant in the city centre of Katowice. They’ve branched out further south and offer not only the restaurant experience, where you can arrange events for family and friends, but also a catering service - perfect for businesses, conferences etc., which they can help you in organising (at least from the food side of things!).The menu is colourful and rich, and we have to agree, this certainly is an interesting springboard which will not leave you disappointed.Qul. Trojoka 1 (Podlesie), tel. (+48) 791 99 19 19, www.indiagarden.pl. Open 13:0020:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. T6

INTERNATIONAL BAR MONOPOL This regal bistro recently had its menu overhauled had its art-deco decor totally redecorated. Located in the heart of the City on the ground floor of the city’s only 5 star Hotel the very capable head chef has concocted the ideal seasonal sensations for light leisurely breakfast and midday meals. If you’re feeling a bit more peckish check out their daily lunch menu (daily from 12:00 - close). Their extensive wine list will also help you start your day in style.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 08:0023:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-22:00. €€€. U6 BIERHALLE Dining in a shopping mall usually consists of being queue barged by tracksuited teens ordering burgers and putting the finishing touches to their acne, so Bierhalle is quite a bonus for all who find themselves exploring the guts of the Silesia City shopping mall. The best beer in Katowice should be the primary reason for your visit, but the food is by no means a poor relation. The menu here is pretty much as you’d expect: big piles of dead animals, perfect for lining the innards before putting their range of microbrews to the test. Order the likes of sausages, herring, and even tortillas, delivered cheerily by staff dressed like they’ve just finished milking cows. When the Sunday trading ban is in effect, regardless, they are open, albeit with a shorter day 12:0020:00.QJ‑8, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 609 67 77 09, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. €€€.

Restaurants BISTRO & CAFE ZIELNIK The term bistro gets thrown around a lot these days but this bright and bustling cafe is indeed a true blue bistro at heart. From hearty breakfasts, to fresh fruit and fruit-veg squeezed juices, creative cakes, thrilling lunch specials and exquisite entrees, there is a lot to like here. And the longer you stay the longer you want to stay. Our coffee and cake ended in a 3 course lunch; they change their menu regularly! A good rule of thumb is if you can see and hear the chef cooking, you know your meal is the real deal. Superb!QN‑13, ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. (+48) 32 438 46 04. Open 08:0019:00; Sat, Sun 09:30-18:00. €€. T6 BUŁKĘS Their tagline is all you really need to know: Pulled Pork and Pancakes. If you’re still not convinced then how about local micro-brewed craft beers on tap and in bottles, and lunch options that will knock your socks off, Prosecco cocktails and homemade cakes. Still not convinced? Come find us on their urban terrace – we’ll be digging into yet another BBQ pork, bacon and blue cheese sandwich (we’re addicted already) and washing it down with a fruity Silesian Hajer IPA. We’ll have a word or two for you; come early and come often!QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 10, tel. (+48) 780 09 09 66. Open 12:00-22:00; Mon 14:00-22:00; Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:00-23:30. €€. TU6 DZIEŃ I NOC Entering any establishment is dependent on your choice of day and night options. Well, entering this establishment is a clear choice between dzień i noc (night and day), as both are rolled into one! Come during the day for some great food, as the kitchen is headed by the talented Agnieszka Syguła! The Mon-Fri lunch menu (appetiser & main for 25zł) changes regularly. Their steaks are definitely worth a try, and a nice touch, you can go to the fridge, choose your piece of meat and pay for the weight you choose! Once you’re done with the food, the night sets in and the next room becomes a bar, open Tue-Sat 17:00-00:00. The cocktails are very much worth a try! Eat. Drink. Dance. I’m in!QN‑12, ul. Warszawska 5, tel. (+48) 531 03 40 34, www.dzieninoc.com.pl. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. €€. TUE6 FOOD & BALL ‘Food & Ball by Arkadiusz Milik’ to give it its full name is connected to the FC Napoli and Polish National team star who hails from Silesia. Football and gastronomy have been his life long passions, and now he’s having a go at the latter. Located in Galeria Libero, in Katowice’s south-west, this is a restaurant aimed to be inviting for both friends and families, for lovers of sport, good food and good cocktails. The food menu features meat, veg and fish dishes, however, the cocktail menu deserves special mention for its unique selection of own recipe cocktails, all with names connected to football (offside...Pele...not that the 2 were often connected!). Things get lively when sporting events are shown live on the large screens.Qul. Kościuszki 229, tel. (+48) 575 99 87 65, www.foodandball.pl. Open 11:00-22:30. €€. T

Botanika

ul. Stawowa 3, 40-095 Katowice tel. 32 781 55 55, 32 259 98 65 www.restauracjapatio.pl

Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00

Our Family Tradition for over 70 years in gastronomy

Possibility of accommodation in cosy charming rooms! Open: hotel 24h, restaurant 8:00 - 22:00

ul. Kościuszki 352, 40-690 Katowice tel. 32 202 95 56, tel. kom. 666-388-108 www.patiozajazd.pl 65

Restaurants KOFEINA MINI The new train station and shiny new shopping mall are attracting all sorts of new businesses to a street that was downright downtrodden not too long ago. Kofeina Mini is exactly the type of place that’s changing the face of this central thoroughfare. This modern, bright bistro and cool cafe serves up all kinds of affordable and delicious dishes, many of which would pass for gourmet meals in more pretentious environs. Their chalkboard menu proclaims the daily specials and organizes them either by food type, “Pierogies, Soups, Pastas, Smoothies etc.” or by main ingredient, “Cod, Veal, Chicken, Salmon etc.” Everything is worth trying and don’t forget to grab one of their delicious coffee - sit and sip or grab and go.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 13, tel. (+48) 509 34 12 65. Open 08:00-19:00; Sun 09:00-13:00. €€. T6

POLISH SEASONAL FOODS AT IYP, we love autumn and winter, and not just because of the activities mentioned in our main feature (p.8), but for the awesome food. Polish and Silesian food (p.58) is already something we big up, but the great thing is that whether at home or in restaurants, what you can expect on the table comes and goes with the seasons. So what can you eat? First and foremost: a whole variety of mushrooms! The most common are ‘Boletus edulis’ (PL: Borowik Szlachetny) or ‘Chanterelles’ (PL: Kurki). Freshly picked, all shapes and sizes, they’re great in main meals, soups, and in another Polish pastime: pickling. From pumpkin to zucchini, it’s pickled! As for fruits, from apple, quince, pear, to cherry, Poles turn them into jam! Some make their own liquers (PL: nalewki) from fruits and pine syrup. Other seasonal ingredients are game animals such as boar, venison, pheasant and duck. Whether you’re carnivore, vegetarian or vegan, you won’t miss out. Katowice is full of great places to try out autumnal/winter cuisine, whether it’s in traditional Polish restaurants (p.71) or those with an international flare to their menus (including Polish), and special mention goes to Patio restaurant (p.66), Restauracja Max (p.67), Tatiana Restaurant (p.68), Chata z Zalipia (p.71) and Wiejska Chatka (p.72). 66

KRYSTYNKA WRACA Z WIEDNIA BISTRO & CAFE This bright little bistro is quite a refreshing take on the cuisine and style of Vienna. If you’re thinking starched napkins and gilded portraits of moustachioed Habsburgs, think again. There’s nothing haughty or hifalutin about this delectable diner. They offer straight ahead delicious food of the hearty soup and scrumptious schnitzel variety with a subtle tip of the hat to Austrian tradition. They also do great service to Viennese cake and coffee culture so make sure to stop by in the earlier hours for a java jolt and to break the fast. Also, saddle up to a big creamy bowl of soup and a luscious latte. With food and drink like this we are by no means surprised by Miss Kristine’s illustrious return... we just hope she never leaves us again.QM‑14, ul. Kościuszki 45, tel. (+48) 32 733 38 20, www.krystynka.com.pl. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. €€. T6 LOBBY BAR Located on the ground floor of the Angelo Hotel, it’s worth getting a room upstairs just for convenient access to this exquisite restaurant. A perfect cure for seasonal Silesian depression, Lobby Bar justifies its to-the-point name with a modern, spirit-lifting interior of warm colours and wall to floor length windows. No effort is spared with the food, including regularly reinvented seasonal menus in addition to the regular card full of locally-inspired fusion dishes. The menu even includes accompanying wine recommendations. Meal deals are on offer from 50-100zł including an appetiser, main, dessert and a glass of wine. For the more traditionally minded, you you can also order mouth watering steaks and burgers.QM‑11, ul. Sokolska 24 (Vienna House Easy Katowice), tel. (+48) 32 783 81 55, www.viennahouse. com. Open 09:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-24:00. €€€. TU PATIO One of Katowice’s most popular restaurants just had an extensive renovation and they are all spiffed up and ready to serve. They got rid of some of the kitschy clutter, added some comfier chairs and brightened things up a bit so you can now see your delicious dish a bit better and feel relaxed as you eat it. Their extensive menu of regional dishes (Silesian beef roulade with Silesian style potatoe-dough noodles (knedle) and red cabbage) and European cuisine (pizzas, pastas,

Restaurants grilled meats and fish etc.) has plenty to offer. Their multilingual menus (German, English, French and Italian) make it easy for you to successfully order what some claim to be the best steak in town. For a bargain, visit between 11:00 and 16:00 Mon-Fri, when lunch is only 26zł.QM‑11, ul. Stawowa 3, tel. (+48) 32 781 55 55, www.restauracjapatio.pl. Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €€. T6 PATIO PARK An exquisitely decorated and refreshingly spacious restaurant at the edge of Kościuszki Park. Reflected light above the faux trellises give the impression of daylight and cut branches hang from the trellises so as to give the impression of dining in a forest on a starry night. Countrystyle furniture, a rustic-themed mural, antique objects and elegantly simple table settings sustain the impression. Wait staff are pleasant and speedy to respond. The chef takes a creative turn with entrees, adding garnish to some to resemble trees. The menu is long, but you may not have to venture past the chef’s recommendations on the first page to find something tempting. They’ve recently introduced tasting menus on Mon and Tues (55-79zł). Don’t hesitate to bring the kids as they’ve just installed two new playground areas (indoor/outdoor) so you can dine in peace.QK‑16, ul. Kościuszki 101, tel. (+48) 32 205 30 77, www.patiopark.pl. Open 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. €€€. TU PATIO ZAJAZD The patriarch of the Patio family is also their biggest and most exclusive. The Polish ‘zajazd’ is something between a Diner, a Motel and a rip roaring wedding and function hall. Patio Zajazd fits the bill but ups the classiness and quality by a factor of ten. As with all Patio restaurants the food is the centrepiece and is a hearty mix of Polish staples and pan European fair (breakfast served 07:00-10:00 Mon-Fri and 08:00-10:00 Sat-Sun). Steeped in tradition and experience, their chefs, waiters and hotel staff all provide top notch service and they even have a play area for your little ones (inside and out). Great for whether you’re simply stopping in for a bite to eat or staying for the weekend to celebrate a distant nephew’s nuptials. They have 23 comfortable Hotel quality rooms available on the premises.Qul. Kościuszki 352, tel. (+48) 32 202 95 56, www.patiozajazd.pl. Open 07:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-22:00. €€. TU RESTAURACJA MAX This is an absolute Katowice institution and if you happen to have a taste for the wilder meats, then Max is the place for you to get your fix. Their cuisine hovers somewhere between trans-European and traditional Polish with an expansive menus of delicate starters, hearty soups and decadent mains. But the star of the show is undoubtedly the many exotic game dishes and regular specials they have on offer. Choose from roast wild boar or Venison steaks! If you can’t decide on just one go for the chef’s wild game platter for two. NOTE: Max is located about a 10 minute walk north of Spodek on ul. Korfantego.QN‑7, Al. Korfantego 105, tel. (+48) 32 259 68 86, www.restauracja-max.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. T 67

Restaurants RESTAURACJA POD DREWNIANYM BOCIANEM A new franchise of a tried and true Chorzów and Ruda Śląska legends, the Katowice version of the stalky stork is a bit more modern and elegant than the rest of its flock. Here they have gone the downtown route offering fine dining mixed with occasional live music. Although the atmosphere is much more sophisticated the menu is in fact similar which is very much to their credit. Thin crust pizzas cooked in a wood fire oven are the centrepiece of their expansive menu which also delves deeply into other Mediterranean staples like pastas, salads and seafood with a smattering Polish classics and Silesian specialities for good measure. The portions are large and the food is outstanding. Judging from the positivity of the staff and the meticulousness of the new design and expansive private event room, this bird has come to roost for a long while.QK‑11, ul. Gliwicka 49, tel. (+48) 532 53 22 22, www.drewnianybocian.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. TE RESTAURACJA TAMARYND Located in the ground floor of the M Hotel Sosnowiec, the Tamarynd takes the hotel dining experience to a new level. Serving up a mix of Mediterranean classics highlighted by a pizza menu plus a huge selection of starters, soups, salads, pastas and mains. With supremely elegant interiors accentuated by chandeliers, mirrors covering the walls and a bright and colourful decor, the only question you’ll be left asking is ‘Are these prices for real?’ Tamarynd gives you yet another reason to visit the up and coming North Eastern ‘borough’ of Sosnowiec.Qul. Wojska Polskiego 199 (M Hotel Sosnowiec), Sosnowiec, tel. (+48) 507 55 50 03, www. tamarynd.pl. Open 06:30-10:00, 16:00-22:00. €€. XTU

RISTORANTE CRISTALLO 5 Dworcowa Street, Katowice Phone: +48 32 782 82 82 www.Ihr.com.pl mailto:monopol@hotel.com.pl

www.likusrestauracje.pl

STEAKHOUSE DA DA If there were such a thing as the beaten path in Katowice, Stek House would certainly be off it, but it’s worth seeking out if you’re feeling particularly rapacious. With a variety of choice cuts of primo authentico Argentine beef steaks (Black Angus), Irish beef steaks (Hereford) and other choice cuts from around the globe (Chile, Japan and even Poland!). Steak burgers are also on offer! If you’re a meat lover you can’t go wrong. There’s an English menu on hand and the pleasant staff are more than happy to help out. Prior reservation required.QL‑14, ul. gen. Zajączka 17 (entrance from ul. Poniatowskiego), tel. (+48) 32 205 61 03. Open 24hrs. €€€€. o TATIANA A long, thin restaurant with elegant, cleverly designed wooden floors and ceilings. The organic design is enhanced with decorative bamboo and suspended reeds and a new lighting system which make for a bright and warm atmosphere. One of Katowice’s finer and suitably popular establishments, the menu features an extensive range of Slavic and European dishes including steaks (the best in the city?) plus a seasonal menu that changes every three months. The Silesian style ‘Żurek’ (sour rye soup) with mashed potato, sausage and egg is as traditional as you can get, and wow, what a taste! Great food with a wine list to match.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 5, tel. (+48) 32 203 74 13, www.restauracjatatiana.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. €€€. TU

Restaurants ITALIAN BAR A BOO The furthest restaurant on the Mariacka strip but more than well worth the trip. Specializing in pizzas, pastas and other Italian treats, this popular eatery hits all the right notes avoids being just another Italian place. With authentic wood fired pizzas at the heart of it all, their seasonal menus are built around the freshest of ingredients both sourced locally and imported from Italy. Their Pappardelle Porcini with porcini mushrooms, cured tomatoes, onion, garlic and wine and butter sauce was just the ticket! The colourful wine and drink menu (Prosecco, Bellini!) is expertly presented and paired by their friendly and knowledgable waitstaff. Delicioso!QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 37, tel. (+48) 32 399 15 26, www.baraboo.pl. Open 11:00-24:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00-01:00. €€. T CRISTALLO Climb a grand marble staircase to reach Cristallo, the stunning show-piece restaurant of the Monopol Hotel. A glass roof allows guests to watch the evening unravel above them, while the discreet interiors of bare brick walls and steel tubing lend a minimalist aesthetic to the experience. Select from the imaginative Italian (and Polish) inspired menu with succulent dishes from duck to a choice of grilled fish. You pay for the quality here, and it comes as no surprise that diners trek across Silesia to do so.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. Open 18:0023:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€€. UE LEN ARTE Len Arte takes the cake for the best pizza pie in town. The incredible smells wafting from their wood fired oven will hit you way before you queue up for a table. And wait you will (unless you call ahead), as this is one of the hottest gastronomic tickets in town. Once you make it inside you’ll see why their pies are so divine. They have countless artisanal Italian products prominently displayed behind the bar. Peperoncinis, prosciutto, pasta, parmesan, pesto, porcini oh my! Choose from an impossible list of pristine pizzas, scrumptious salads, perfect pastas and delicious dolces. Top it all off with an authentic espresso and you’ll be shouting Bravissimo along with the rest of town.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 25, tel. (+48) 32 308 84 30, www.lenarte. it. Open 13:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-24:00; closed Mon. €€. T6 NOVO The first thing you’ll be struck by as you walk in to NOVO is the huge stone bake oven right at the bar (we think it’s the only one in Kato!). The second thing you’ll be struck by is the sight of all the chopped wood, used for said oven, stored all around the restaurant, craftily incorporated into the decor. The restaurant has a fantastic feel to it, with pots of herbs adorned on the outside wall of the courtyard garden. Now, order your food and watch as it’s all made in the glass walled kitchen outside - try not to put the

Mediterranean Cuisine THE BEST MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT IN THE REGION Let us take you to a Mediterranean climate where you can feel the rhythm of a sunny day. Our restaurant can be found in the HOTEL ALTUS PRESTIGE, FIRST FLOOR. ul. Uniwersytecka 13, Katowice mobile +48 512 020 808 tel +48 (32) 603 01 91 katowice@viatoscana.pl www.viatoscana.pl 69

Restaurants chefs off from their fine work. You may notice the menu is printed on regular paper, and for good reason, as the menu is seasonal and regularly updated, although they do have their regular dishes. The [mainly Italian] wine list is huge and we’re sure you’ll find something to tickle your fancy. QO‑12, ul. Warszawska 15, tel. (+48) 572 35 91 31. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon 16:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. T6

MEDITERRANEAN AÏOLI INSPIRED BY KATOWICE AïOLI Inspired by Katowice brings yet more Mediterranean flare to the city’s Rynek to accompany the deck chairs and palm trees next to the ‘mighty’ Rawa River. AïOLI is already majorly popular in Warsaw and Gdańsk, so it’s nice to see them branch out further to Kato (their first venture in the south of the country), and right in the heart of the city - it’s hard to miss them with the brightly lit sign on top of the building. The interior is the usual AïOLI style of post-industrial furnishings and open kitchen. As for the menu, as expected of AïOLI, it’s quite extensive, which means there’s always something for everyone: pasta with frutti di mare? No problem! Pizza? Burgers? Coming right up! We’re sure AïOLI will fit right in to the changing landscape of Kato. A restaurant and bar by day, on the weekends it becomes quite a lively music venue too. QN‑12, Rynek 5, tel. (+48) 510 80 33 29. Open 09:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00. €€€. TUE6 SHRIMP HOUSE Started by three brothers with a passion for cooking, Shrimp House provides something that in the past was lacking in Polish gastronomy but has been gradually springing up here and there, and is now available right in the centre of Katowice just a stone’s throw away from the main train station - damn good shrimp! Inspired by the food truck trend, the brothers offer delicious fresh shrimp bites (not tiny, frozen, poor quality prawns) served in a variety of ways - from garlic and white wine sauce, curried shrimp all the way to Pho soup, all with various dips. The food on offer is the real deal...at long last.QN‑12, ul. Młyńska 11, tel. (+48) 726 50 06 66, www.shrimp-house.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Sat, Sun 13:00-22:00. €€. T6 VIA TOSCANA A sensory delight awaits you on the second floor of Altus Tower with intriguing interiors touting archways, lampposts, vines and even mock balconies. It’s every much as delightful on the palette as it is on the eye, with a menu featuring Argentinean beef, a great pickled salmon carpaccio and seafood. The house specialty is octopus in a red wine sauce with cherry tomatoes and arugala served over pappardelle pasta. Wine and dine al fresco on their expansive 60 person terrace. Equally suited to romantic trysts or hushed business dinners, Via Toscana is further proof of Katowice’s growing stature.QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13 (Altus Tower), tel. (+48) 32 603 01 91, www.viatoscana.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. XTU o 70

MEXICAN EL MEXICANO If you’re anything like us and you’ve tried one too many cabbage filled tacos in mexican kitsch-fiestaurants across Poland, then you’ll understand our initial hesitation. But as soon as we saw the tastefully colourful exterior of El Mexicano, we knew this was something special. The small and brightly coloured interior balances perfectly with the straight ahead authentic Tex-Mex they serve. Mouth-watering spices meld with fresh ingredients, almost all of which actually belong in Mexican dishes (no kapusta rancheros here!). They even offer imported chipotle and habanero sauces if you want to fire up those fajitas. Besides great food and drink the atmosphere is relaxed and there’s absolutely no risk of being serenaded by a pimply faced Politechnika student in a sombrero. Muchos Bravos Mexicanos!QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 18A, tel. (+48) 790 82 26 82. Open 12:0023:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€.

MIDDLE EASTERN AMFORA RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR There’s nothing better than the excitement of trying new food. Think of the delight on our faces when we entered expecting to eat middle-eastern dishes (already a plus), only to find that one of the stars of the menu is muhamara - a perfect Syrian alternative to hummus. But there’s more. The menu is filled with many meat and vegetable delights, plus sweet desserts like baklava. We particularly liked the lamb kofta with Arabic-style pickles, hot pepper, harissa and yoghurt. As for the interior, it’s modern but the waitressing style is old-school to the core - friendly, knowledgable, simply professional. You’ll be delighted to know the bar serves up some snazzy cocktails, from classics to some unique in-house recipes. Wine is also available, and goes great with the meals. Two Tuesdays p/month you can enjoy jam sessions too, so come here for food, or come here for drinks with friends - you won’t be disappointed.QO‑12, ul. Francuska 1A, tel. (+48) 32 253 56 04. Open 10:00-22:00; Mon 10:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. €€. U6 BAKLAVA Found just a short distance away from the city centre, along ul. Warszawska, is a fantastic little haunt to get some sweet Turkish tea, coffee and Baklava. This place is definitely popular with students (hello, Erasmus people). Basic in style, with a simplistic traditional yet modern feel, this is a pleasant place to sit back and up your sugar levels. Baklava initially functioned as a cafe-bar, but has now introduced food to their menu, which we’re sure all will be more than happy to sample. As we’ve already mentioned the student element, it’s worth nothing that Erasmus karaoke Tuesdays take place here, so best check their Facebook page for details. We’ll be back.QP‑12, ul. Warszawska 57, tel. (+48) 508 48 79 05, www.baklava.pub. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. €. TU6

Restaurants

+ 48 604 866 173

3 Maja 33 street - where two great White Monkeys meet QUEBAB FACTORY Aiming to change the appearance of Middle Eastern food, Quebab has opened its doors in the very heart of Katowice. Don’t get this place mixed up with any old kebab place, Quebab offers up some mean kebabs, and plenty of other delights from salads, Indian chicken tikka to shish kebab, all to get your eyebrows raised. The key things about our kebabs were thus: the dough was not soggy, the meat (chicken and lamb) were plentiful and not dripping with fat - it might sound glaringly obvious to say, but this has been the downfall of many other venues we’ve visited. As for the mega rollo option, be careful, it’s damn tasty, but we didn’t quite expect it to be 0.5 metres long - we’re sure there will be many to gleefully take up this challenge. Alcohol is available, as is shisha, and all can be enjoyed in the outdoor seating.QN‑12, ul. Mielęckiego 3, tel. (+48) 513 60 83 03, www. quebabfactory.eu. Open 11:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €. T6

POLISH CADENZA Occupying a prominent position on the second floor of the country’s foremost concert hall, Cadenza has a lot of rolls to fill; it is the pre-concert venue for dinner, drinks or snacks; it is the intermission wine and cake stop; it is the catering kitchen for all NOSPR special events that happen both inside and out; it is, most importantly, the

most cutting edge and innovative Polish restaurant in Katowice. Every seasonal dish is carefully composed and explodes in a symphony of pianissimo and fortissimo flavors. The baked ham with venison, Silesian style noodles, pickled cabbage purée and Jerusalem artichoke is a clear standout, and we will gladly return for an encore performance of more of their inspiring culinary delights.QO‑10, Pl. Wojciecha Kilara 1, tel. (+48) 32 732 53 47, www.cadenza.pl. Open 10:0022:00; closed Mon. €€€. T CHATA Z ZALIPIA Paying homage to the specific folk art tradition of the far-away Małopolska village of Zalipie, the rustic cottage interior of this pleasant peasant offering features elaborate flower murals on the white walls, garlic garlands hanging from timber beams and plenty of other farm fittings. Delicious Polish home-cooking is served on beautifully decorated ceramic dish ware, while waitresses in traditional dress and disco folk music round out what serves as one of the best introductions to Polish cuisine in Silesia. They’ve even won several culinary awards and what’s more, many Polish stars of stage and screen seem to count themselves as regulars. The one and only Slash polished off some pierogi (made from their own recipe) here not so long ago. Rock and rolada!QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 15, tel. (+48) 32 205 33 00, www. chatazzalipia.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€. TU6 71

Restaurants VEGETARIAN & VEGAN

Botanika

BOTANIKA Nestled nicely into the basement and first floor of one of the brownstones (yes Katowice has brownstones!) on one of our favourite streets is this vegetarian and vegan treat. As the name suggests, they are all about cooking up hearty and healthy meals pulled straight from the garden. The specials include vegan and gluten free meals to knock your socks off. They serve up mighty fine coffee too with specially selected beans. The multicoloured meals match the warm woods, climbing vegetation and exposed brick walls of this comfy and friendly bistro and cafe.QN‑13, ul. Sienkiewicza 27, tel. (+48) 32 724 18 36. Open 09:0020:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00. €. T6 BUJNA This vege-vegan restaurant is right in the city centre near ul. Mariacka - if you so wish, you can do a few forward rolls and be there in a jiffy (you’ll be dizzy, but you’ll be there nonetheless). A family run business, all with a passion for healthy living, this restobar also has a shop; they compliment each other, as everything you eat here can be purchased in said shop. Soups of the day are a delightful surprise, as are the choice of wraps. Most interesting was the soy-dog along with a fantastic freshly made juice! Stay healthy, stay mindful, and enjoy your visit.QN‑12, ul. Mielęckiego 10, tel. (+48) 531 33 12 00, www.bujna.com.pl. Open 11:00-21:00; Fri 11:0001:00; Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €. To6 MORCINKA 3A The great thing about Katowice is that you can use markers to find your way around - the church on ul. Mariacka, and further north, the UFO shaped Spodek, part of cultural zone, but acting like the ‘guardian’ of the northern Koszutka district. And it’s here, not far from Spodek, that you will find the fantastic Morcinka 3A - handy that this is also the address! A cafe bistro, with breakfasts, lunches, icecreams and a very respectuful menu consisting of salads and some very funky Asian bowls. The interior is design focused, relaxed, modern and chic at the same time. It has that certain personal touch that...only a family run business can provide, ahh, there’s the reason for the look. A great place to stop by for a quick snack or stay that little bit longer, whether you’re vegetarian, vegan, or a meat eater, there’s something for everyone.QN‑9, ul. Morcinka 3A, tel. (+48) 735 93 74 94, www.morcinka3a.com. Open 09:00-19:00; Sat 09:00-20:00. 72

RESTAURACJA KUCHNIA OTWARTA Formerly known as the Restauracja Autorska Adama Gessler, this elegant and exciting open kitchen concept restaurant serves up some of the best upscale regional Silesian cuisine around. Located on the edge of the Park Inn by Radisson Katowice right on the edge of Silesia Park. Treat yourself to some of the regions finest fare including duck and more traditional fare such as pierogi and soulful soups. The food is top notch but the service is world class as the chefs serve you themselves - personally bringing the food straight from the pan to your warm plate. Elegance, atmosphere and a memorable experience are virtually guaranteed. Now part of the prestigious Silesian Culinary Trail, this is certifiably one of the best places to taste true Silesian and Polish cuisine.QK‑3, ul. Bytkowska 1A, Katowice (Park Inn by Radisson Katowice), tel. (+48) 32 721 11 66, www.kuchniaotwarta.eu. Open 16:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. U6 RYCERSKI Located in what appears to be a wooden mountain chalet (but is in fact the Hotel Rycerski), this is a very decent place to take in the Polish food experience. Heavy wooden bench-style furniture, friendly waitresses and large servings of well-prepared Polish grub are actually worth the trip out here, even if you’re not staying in the adjacent hotel. Lots of seating and a well-stocked bar mean that the atmosphere often develops into that of a thriving beer hall. Qul. Będzińska 53 (Hotel Rycerski), Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www.hotel-rycerski.pl. Open 07:00-22:00. €€€. TU SMAQ FOOD & WINE Located in the fantastic Q Hotel Plus Katowice, don’t be put off thinking that you have to be a guest to eat here, it’s open to the public, and we’d highly recommend a visit. When we personally stayed at the hotel, we were delighted with the impressive breakfast offering, so we knew we simply could not pass up the chance see what they had on offer later in the day. The restaurant specialises in traditional Silesian produce and dishes with a modern twist (which are delightful), but international cuisine is also on offer. The helpful staff are always eager to help you, should you be unsure of what Silesian cuisine entails! Thursdays are steak & burger day! As for Sunday, this is family dinner day (we recommend booking in advance). For those looking to save a buck or two, Mon-Fri between 12:30-15:00 is happy hour - the same two dishes for the price of one! Recommended. QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 12, tel. (+48) 32 740 99 40, www. qhotels.pl. Open 06:30-10:30, 12:30-23:00; Sat, Sun 07:0011:00, 12:30-23:00. €€€. TU WIEJSKA CHATKA (THE RUSTIC HUT) This truly traditional Polish and Silesian restaurant is a nice change of pace if not slightly out of place. A cavalcade of country-style adornments such as old farming tools and painted flowers contrast nicely with the bright white walls. The background music is as kitschy and folky as it comes which goes perfectly with the large portions of

Restaurants hearty Polish staples and Silesian delicacies piled high upon your plate. They also offer breakfasts and lunch specials and a boat load of beverages to boot. This urban ‘Village’ is one you just must pillage when you’re in town. QN‑9, Pl. Grunwaldzki 4, tel. (+48) 32 350 30 10, www. wiejskachatka.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 10:0023:00. €€. T ZŁOTY RÓG (THE GOLDEN HORN) A combined delicatessen and place to stand at a table and eat in the style of a train station buffet, this humble-looking establishment churns out a large array of outstanding dishes ready to eat in an instant from pierogi to roast beef, all served with a superb choice of side dishes and salads. If you don’t mind the peculiar dining arrangements you won’t find it easy to get a better and tastier bargain than in here. Check in or visit their FB for details on daily discounts. QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 2, tel. (+48) 32 253 78 48, www. zlotyrogkatowice.pl. Open 07:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. €.

SILESIAN MOODRO RESTAURANT Not to be confused with the Bistro/Cafe of the same name across the courtyard in the main museum complex, this is the much larger and more elegant restaurant in the old Machinery Building of the Silesian Museum. The refined exposed brick interiors with large picture windows overlook the rest of the Museum’s stunning campus. Their exquisite seasonal cuisine can best be described as Modern Silesian Fusion. Expect futuristic European fare and classic Silesian with flare (think rolada śląska with dumplings and red cabbage etc.). With a great wine list and impeccable service, you may find yourself becoming a repeat customer, Museum visit or not. 2nd location in Galeria Katowicka. QP‑10, ul. Tadeusza Dobrowolskiego 1A (Silesian Museum), tel. (+48) 795 55 93 01, www.moodro.pl. Open 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. €€€. U ŻUROWNIA If you’re not familiar yet with the Polish soup Żurek, it’s your lucky day. It is a sour rye soup and one of the most iconic of all Polish soups. This new bustling bistro is a shrine to the humble soup and you can order a big ole bowl with hard boiled eggs and/or sausages. But you know what they say, come for the soup and stay for the Silesian street food. The local patriotism is strong in this place (the main menu is in Silesian and the cooks shout at each other in it) and they scoured the whole region for the best quick bites they could find. Try the ‘Ślązak’ aka Silesian kielbasa hot dog or a ’Hajer’ tortilla wrap with red cabbage, beef and pickles, among other things. This is Silesian soul food served up fast and cheap as chips (braty)! Additionally, a weekly seasonal menu is on offer consisting of Polish and International dishes. There is also a conference room (holds up to 30 people, catering available), should you need it.QM‑13, ul. Ligonia 16, tel. (+48) 535 08 46 66. Open 12:00-22:00; Mon 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. TU6 73

Polish Alcohol

4 Polish Alcohols You Have to Try …plus several others that also work… 74

Polish Alcohol VODKA TRANSLATOR Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some of the best vodka blends available in the world, many of which date back centuries. The most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere, Chopin, Luksusowa, Ostoya, Pan Tadeusz and Wyborowa, all of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop.

1. ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA

Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, we prefer it on ice.

2. ŻUBRÓWKA

One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka - also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are.

3. KRUPNIK

Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.

4. MIÓD PITNY

Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads have been protected under EU law as a traditional regional specialty. Distilled from honey, the drink is extremely easy to consume and comes in four strengths with Połtorak being the strongest (15-18%).

While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun is in sampling Poland’s flavoured vodkas and nalewki - a more general term applied to a large range of Polish liqueurs and aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices. Vodka shot & snack bars like Pijalnia Wódki on ul. Mariacka 8 (p.28, O-12) are a great place to try them. Here are just some of the notable varieties you can find at the bar or shop. Wiśniówka - cherry vodka Cytrynówka - lemon vodka Pigwówka - quince vodka Orzechówka - walnut vodka Piołunówka - wormwood liquor Wódka figowa - fig vodka Wódka śliwkowa - plum vodka Wódka gruszkowa - pear vodka

HOT BEER? Though the Polish winter can be long and brutal, fear not, the Poles have a method for taking the bite out of this blustery season, and as you can probably guess - it’s alcohol (congratulations, Kowalski). For those in need of a warm-up that wince at the thought of vodka, we have two words for you: hot beer, or ‘grzane piwo’ as it’s called by the locals. Essentially a frothing hot pint spiced with artificial ginger syrup, clove, cinnamon and other mulling spices, for some this Polish specialty is an acquired taste, for others an early Christmas present, and others still an utter profanity. You can try it out at Patio restaurant (p.66), Restauracja Max (p.67), Tatiana Restaurant (p.68) and Chata z Zalipia (p.71) and Wiejska Chatka (p.72). Similarly popular is ‘grzane wino’ - or mulled wine - as you’ll notice by the barrelshaped stands selling cups of it on the market square (p.28) during December’s Christmas fair (p.14). The popular regional brand is Grzaniec Galicyjski and if you enjoy drinking it in public so much, you’ll be delighted to discover you can buy it in almost any alcohol shop and easily prepare it at home as well. Still not sure? Keep mulling it over...and Na zdrowie! 75

Nightlife

One of the best bars in Katowice - Biała Małpa (p.77)

Katowice’s nightlife is improving steadily, with more bars and clubs opening that hold themselves to a higher creative standard. While there was a time when a Saturday night on the town felt like creeping quietly through a cemetery, that has all changed in a hurry with the emergence of ul. Mariacka (O-12) as the city’s nightlife headquarters. A pedestrianised three-block stretch that was once all strip clubs and shady gay saunas (ok, those are still there), the city has put a lot of energy into cleaning it up and turning it into the high street it should be. Despite some dreadful urban design decisions including ugly, uncomfortable benches and strange sculptures, the city is finally seeing results with a plethora of restaurants, cafes, cocktail bars and clubs moving in to give the city centre some buzz. In summer, Mariacka is full of outdoor seating and flooded with people, but there are plenty of other hedonist hideouts to discover elsewhere with the help of this guide. The venues we list below are located throughout the Silesian Metropolis, with the name of the town added to the end of the address after a comma (with a map reference if applicable) if it is not in Katowice proper; districts of Katowice are shown in brackets. The opening hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking, the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations depending on what you’re looking for. ELITE Katowice isn’t exactly the place to go on a romantic weekend, but that doesn’t mean there’s no classiness here. To that end try the new kid on the block, Scena54 (p.78), both a classy lounge during the day and a club full of the well dressed during the weekends. 76

LADS Foreign funboys can mix with the locals in the context of their own culture in the likes of Polish shot bars along Katowice’s main party strip, ul. Mariacka (0-12) then head to Spiż (p.78), before drinking enough Guinness to lurk across the lively dancefloors of Rajzefiber (p.78) or the classic City Pub (p.77). If all this just isn’t enough, and you’re up for visiting a strip club, then Queens (p.77) in nearby Gliwice is the next best stop. STUDENTS Not the most discerning demographic, students will go anywhere there’s fun music and cheap drinks, so it’s no surprise that ul. Mariacka (O-12) is a magnet for skint students, however, there are better options, namely Browariat (p.80); those with more intent to impress will try Spiż (p.78), or Kato (p.79). COUPLES Couples looking for romance should find it by dropping in to the intimate atmosphere of Hipnoza (p.78), but if you’re looking for some of the best cocktails in the city and a truly classy atmosphere then head straight to Scena54 (p.78). ALTERNATIVE Katowice has a fair number of alt. venues with artsy Drzwi Zwane Koniem (p.78) being among the best offbeat boozers in the city. Hipsters and beer loving backpackers gravitate to Biała Małpa (p.77). Those with more elevated musical tastes will find few finer clubs than INQbator (p.81), whether there’s a live concert on or not.

Nightlife BARS & PUBS BIAŁA MAŁPA (THE WHITE MONKEY) This alabaster ape drapes itself in cool and drowns itself in sudsy pools of amber nectar nightly. This premium primate has achieved cult status among Katowice beer lovers. You’ll see why as soon as you squeeze through its monkey bars. Warm woods, exposed brick and a new heated outdoor beer garden greet you before you even see the star of the show... the wall of beer! The biggest and oldest Silesian multitap bar has over 400 bottled varieties of Polish, Czech, Belgian, English and Irish artisanal beers and ales on hand plus a rotating cast of 20 brews on tap plus 3 pumps! And don’t fear the beer, the knowledgeable staff is eager to offer advice and help you navigate their seas of suds. Come for a coffee during the day and fight with all your might to order that first pint of the night or try out their whisky offers! If that doesn’t tickle your fancy, the good folk here have now opened Biała Małpa Mexico in the same courtyard, offering Mexican dishes prepared by a Mexican, along with tequila tasting boards and fantastic margaritas!QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 38, tel. (+48) 720 86 61 73, www.bialamalpa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat 14:00-02:00; Sun 14:00-23:00. o CITY PUB One of the places that always comes up when enquiries are made about the best places to drink in town and its cult status is unquestionable. The seemingly small bar is delightfully deceptive as the ground floor houses two bars, numerous private rooms including a billiards, foosball and darts lounge, several larger rooms and a decked out dance floor not to mention smoking rooms and a swanky VIP lounge in the basement with a couple more bars to boot! The true charm of City Pub (the oldest pub in Kato!) is that it manages to walk the line between being a Pub and a Club. Curl up with one of the best poured Guinness in Silesia to watch a match or play some billiards during the week and on the weekends dive into their den of sweaty delinquency. One of the few places we’ve been that also has accommodation just up the the stairs!QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 97 99, www.citypub.pl. Open 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-04:00; Sun 16:00-24:00. XU DRZWI ZWANE KONIEM This “restobars” just happens to have one of the city’s best beer gardens or, rather, a sprawling green terrace. With plenty of tables and chairs, pallet furniture and beach loungers to choose from, they have the perfect seating option whether you’re just stopping in for a quick bite or making a night of it! Inside the hip environs are deftly designed and intimately inviting. Order up a cafe beverage or lemonade at the bar by day or grab a craft beer or table wine by night. Their carefully curated menu features an eclectic mix of Polish and European inspired light appetizers, savoury waffles, Belgian and French fries that you can order all day. The menu is seasonal and democratic so do let your waiter know if you enjoy your meal. Fresh and refreshing!QO‑12, ul. Warszawska 37, tel. (+48) 32 204 12 53, www.drzwizwanekoniem.pl. Open 14:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-02:00. To6

ADULT ENTERTAINMENT We advise sticking to the venue listed here which is established. Be warned, we’ve had reports of 8,000zł being spent willingly in some strips clubs across Poland, and 8,000 sterling spent unwillingly in many others with a less than savoury reputation! If you go by taxi, make sure the driver takes you to the correct club, not one they have a partnership with. Avoid street solicitation and remember to stay vigilant! QUEENS This well-regarded club features two bars, one wherein girls go-go dance on a table in the middle and it would be difficult to stand up from some of the seats without picking a stripper up on your shoulders. There’s also a Jacuzzi and a sauna and highly suggestive massage services available year round. Queens also seems to operate an escort service, making their girls, who have been charmingly described as “no pros, simply girls of next door, study or are housewives,” available for business and family functions, movie dates and birthdays (their suggestions). This could be the way to finally become the ‘cool uncle’ at the next family barbecue.Qul. Ceglarska 35, Gliwice (Ligota Zabrska), tel. (+48) 32 305 30 20, www.queensnightclub.pl. Open 20:00-05:00; closed Sun. X 77

Nightlife KATO Once a discreet DIY bohemian art bar, this hipster hangout is THE place to be seen in Kato’s underground cultural scene. Despite being inside a perfectly sound structure, the bar is made almost entirely of unpainted plywood, from the tables to the wheat-pasted walls covered in graphic nonsense, all in an attempt to convince the shabby-chic clientele that they haven’t gone mainstream on Mariacka, but are merely squatting. Since a recent expansion, tattooed, counter-culture queens and their jacks continue to spill onto the seasonal pallet tables and fritz cola benches. Bolstered by a solid selection of Czech and Polish microbrews, Kato is the best alternative nightlife venue in town, bar none.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 13, tel. (+48) 534 76 76 54. Open 15:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-02:00. E

JAZZ CLUBS HIPNOZA JAZZ CLUB This intimate, laid-back concert venue books some of the city’s best international gigs, the reputation and subsequent turnout for which often exceeds the size of the space. Packed with interesting characters sitting on truly comfortable couches and lazyboys beneath foil-wrapped ducts and rotating psychedelic spirals on the walls, there’s also a decent food menu of pastas, burgs and zapiekankas (ask a friend) if you get a snack attack.QN‑14, Pl. Sejmu Śląskiego 2, tel. (+48) 660 47 61 56, www.jazzclub.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00; closed Mon. XU

MICROBREWERIES BROWARIAT The brew brothers behind Browariat literally built the bar around mostly Bavarian craft beer brands. Flötzinger, Schonram, Siren, Bolero Snort, Fuerst Wjacek, Auer Brau, Fourpure, The Kernel, Partizan Het Uiltje, Brew By Numbers and Founders brews are on tap and in bottles in a colourful variety of hand crafted ales, dunkels, stouts and IPAs. Each style has its very own corresponding glass, stein or flute. They also offer a selection of beers from a visiting brewer on a rotating basis. Choose whichever tasty beverage suits your fancy and settle into one of the many cozy corners or plunk down in front of a plasma screen and support your favourite sport. They also play music from vinyls, which is a nice touch.QO‑13, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 535 00 97 68, www.browariat.com. Open 16:0023:00; Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 17:00-02:00; Sun 18:00-22:00.

CLUBS INQBATOR Hit them on a Saturday and you’ll struggle to find a better venue in town for electro sounds. As such it’s a highly charged crowd you’ll find staring into space with cartoon smiles while repetitive beats shoot fireworks into what is left of their brain. The walls quite literally drip with sweat, while the murky interiors look like they’ve been thrown 78

together as an afterthought by a stoned student with time on his hands. Completely excellent.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 668 37 24 33, www.inq.pl. Open Fri 18:0005:00 and Sat 20:00-06:00 only. X RAJZEFIBER (TRAVEL FEVER) There’s a new king in town and just months after lowering his drawbridge he already has legions of loyal subjects crashing his castle nightly. Rajzefiber has truly achieved a rare and almost impossible feat by successfully filling a huge gap in Katowice’s nightlife with serious style and enviable ease. The city centre club offers an ambitious lineup of great live music AND hot DJs plus offer a menu of quick bar food and rocking cocktails. Upon entering the recently expanded second floor club we had the feeling we’d been coming here for years. The place was totally packed and already jumping at 19:00 on a Saturday. When we came back at 23:00 there was a line 30 people deep waiting to get in! There’s a rising fever for Rajzefiber. QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23/3, tel. (+48) 884 90 51 68, www. rajzefiber.com. Open Fri,Sat 18:00-06:00 only. XE SCENA54 NEW Found just off the Market Square (Rynek), the newest club in Katowice follows in the footsteps of its popular sibling in Kraków. The Kato version is a welcome addition where a bit of well-dressed class goes hand in hand with good lounge vibes during the week, and good music and uninhibited fun during the weekend. The setting is a visually inspiring, albeit Spartan mix of classy modernism, this once having been the premises of the national bank. Ooh. Open Tue-Sat, food is available 17:00-23:00, ranging from international and Polish tapas, to more substantial mains. The cocktail menu is particularly pleasing, and the chilled out weekday setting makes it all worth experiencing again and again. But it’s at the weekend that this place really gets going, so be prepared and check out their Facebook page for all upcoming events. We can’t wait to go again.QN‑11, ul. Mickiewicza 3, tel. +48 32 702 73 72, www.scena54.pl. Open 17:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-04:00; closed Mon, Sun. SPIŻ (BRONZE) Few places have reinvented themselves so fully and completely in recent memory then Spiż. In 2011 the storied dance brewery shuttered their doors for a ‘renovation’. At some point one of the powers that be ended up on a plane to Ibiza and the decision was made to purchase a sound system and light display that would make David Guetta go deaf and blind. In a year and a half’s time the massive two floor club was given a facelift, tummy tuck and a boob job and what you’ll find inside will literally blow your mind. They claim it’s the most modern night club in Poland and from the looks of it they aren’t just blowing smoke (machines)... If you consider yourself a fan of serious clubbing and great beer - it is your destiny to dance here.. till you can’t hear... for a year.QL‑11, ul. Opolska 22, tel. (+48) 32 781 11 32, www.spiz.pl. Open Wed-Fri 21:00-05:00, Sat 21:00-06:00 only. XU

Nightlife

Shopping

Luxury jewellery and products all available at Lilou (p.81)

What little shopping opportunities there are to be found in Katowice are mostly located in the area immediately north of the train station. Like most of 21st-century Poland, many shops are given over to the sale of women’s fashion, with more interesting independent enterprises in seriously short supply. In lieu of the small, communist-era malls around the Rynek, Katowice’s best collection of shops under one roof is the extraordinary Silesia City Centre; if you can’t find what you’re looking for there, then you might have to leave PL to get it. That aside, we’ve made an effort to focus this section on small local or national businesses you won’t find wherever you’re from. More local gift ideas and direct buying opportunities can be found online in the Poland IYP Shop: iyp.me/polandshop.

SUNDAY SHOPPING BAN Shops have traditionally had more limited hours on weekends, but since March 2018 new regulations that will from 2020 ban Sunday trading in Poland entirely (bar 7 Sundays) have gone into effect. Phased in gradually, in 2018 trade was only allowed on the first and last Sundays of each month, forcing shops to close on the intervening Sundays. As of 2019, trade is only allowed on the last Sunday of each month. There are only a few exemptions to the rule, namely pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets and souvenir shops (oh, thank god). Note that the Sunday hours we list for venues are the hours they keep only on those Sundays when trade is allowed. The following is a list of Sundays when shops are allowed to be open: Nov. 24 | Dec. 15, 22, 29 | Jan. 26 | Feb - N/A 80

ALCOHOL Nothing says ‘I’ve been to Poland’ like a suitcase of booze and an increased alcohol tolerance. Indeed, if retracing your activities while in Katowice you may have to concede that alcohol makes the most logical memento. While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked sauce. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands you’ll find in fancy gift sets, but don’t miss Żubrówka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), Żołądkowa Gorzka (bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature gold flakes. BURGUNDIA WINE TASTINGS & WINE SHOP A really admirable selection of world wines for all tastes and budgets in this shop/wine bar hidden in a courtyard near the train station. Another location in the Altus Centre (H-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13).QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 75 19, www.burgundia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-21:00; closed Sun. KONDRAT WINA WYBRANE Not your typical wine shop. Own and operated by a famous Polish actor, they carefully handpick each and every wine that line’s their shelves assuring only the best selection of vintages from the Old and New world for your sipping pleasure.QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 10/1, tel. (+48) 32 205 20 94, www.marekkondrat.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; closed Sun. WHISKY & SPIRIT HOUSE If you happen to be a whisky and high end spirits lover, or you know someone near and dear who is, then this shop is a must stop. It’s no accident they spell ‘whisky’ without an

Shopping ‘e’ as exclusive Scotch single malts are their specialty and we dare say they may just have the best selection we’ve seen in all of Poland! Talisker, Laphroaig, and Macallan are just the beginning and the knowledgeable owner/ specialist will gladly help expand your knowledge and improve your pallet. Of course you’ll also find highend bourbons, voluptuous vodkas, lucious liquours and, oh yeah, some pretty good whiskey as well. They also have a great wine, cider and craft beer selection to fill out their impressive offer. We recommend you take your time to find that perfect tincture or tipple because it’s certainly here somewhere.QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 13, tel. (+48) 511 55 54 11, www.whiskyandspirit.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.

AMBER & JEWELLERY Herbal vodka isn’t the only golden nectar popular in Poland. Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and you’ve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. We throw you bone about where to get it below. I COAL YOU A unique gift can come in many forms, but from Silesia, it may seem like a simple solution, but Icoalyou create jewellery made from nothing other than coal! Coal is to Silesia what amber is to the Baltic region and Icoalyou rightly promote their black gold. Each item is handmade and polished, resulting in utterly unique pieces. You can purchase items from various places around Katowice and Silesia, including Gryfnie (ul. Andrzeja 8), Biksa (pl. Marki 1), Hotel Ibis Katowice Centrum, Hotel Ibis Zabrze and the Guido Mineshaft. A full list of places where you can buy these unique gifts can be found on their website.Qwww.icoalyou.com. LILOU This uniquely colourful and immediately inviting salon is filled with all sorts of glittering gadgets, precious pendants, delicate necklaces and leather bracelets. Their elegantly playful nature of the salon gives you the freedom to mix and match any of the items on display. The expert and friendly staff will happily help you choose the right piece and customise it so that special someone will cherish their talisman even more. Lilou is the perfect melding of French elegance and Polish craftsmanship. 2nd location now in Silesia City Center.QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 15, tel. (+48) 32 253 98 68, www.lilou.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:0016:00; closed Sun. W. KRZYŚ One stop shopping for all your gold, diamond, pearl and luxury watch needs. They stock hot brands such as Chopard, Girard Peregaux, Longines, Rado, Certina, Tissot, Calvin Klein and Davosa. They also have watch repair services and they sell accessories. A great excuse to break out that new

Platinum Mastercard. They have a 2nd shop in Silesia City Center, open all week 10:00-21:00.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 15, tel. (+48) 32 253 98 39, www.krzys-jubiler.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-13:00; closed Sun.

ART & ANTIQUES Antiques are everywhere in Poland and there is no shortage of possibilities for their purchase in Katowice. Serious shoppers will find that the best items end up in the proper antique stores (‘Antyki,’ ‘Antykwariat’), rather than outdoor markets. Remember, if you are taking art that is more than 50 years old and of a potentially high value, you’ll need the proper paperworks and permissions (see Basics). Most proper dealers can provide this straight-away, but you may want to check before opening your wallet. See the Culture section for more art gallery listings. DESA This is Desa’s flagship location in Katowice and this classy show room has a variety of unique antique works of art, china, collectibles, decorative items and jewellery. Get lost in their spacious cases of treasures from another age. The attentive and helpful art experts on hand are there to help you find the perfect piece for your private collection or that special someone. They also handle the sale and appraisal of works of art and antiques. Also located at ul. Dworcowa 13.QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 5, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 22, www. desakatowice.com. Open 10:30-18:00; Sat 11:00-14:00; closed Sun. GALERIA SZTUKI FOX A unique and welcoming gallery specialising in modern art, paintings, sculpture, graphics and hand-made jewellery. Fox also offers decor services. There is ample parking and the opening hours are merely a suggestion and they will easily stay open longer if you so desire. QM‑14, ul. Powstańców 10, tel. (+48) 32 608 63 71 , www.galeriafox.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM EMPIK Located in the massive Silesian City Center, this is the best place in town to find English language paperbacks, guide books, a few foreign newspapers and a decent range of CDs and DVDs. One stop shopping for all your mass media wants and needs.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 22 451 03 94, www.empik.com. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:00-22:00. KOMIS PŁYTOWY (RECORD STORE) The largest selection of vinyl we’ve ever seen in PL is hidden in this courtyard off one of Katowice’s main streets. Bargainpriced, though not extremely well-organised used CDs, as well as music-related DVDs, and posters.QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 19/30A, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 45. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. 81

Shopping FASHION & ACCESSORIES

FOOD & SWEETS

International designer clothing and fashion brands can be found in Katowice’s shopping malls, namely the peerless Silesia City Centre (I/J-2). High quality Polish brands to peel an eye for include Reserved, Vistula, Tatuum and Carry. On the opposite end of the spectrum, you should find no trouble locating secondhand clothing stores around the city, ranging from self-respecting retailers to those who offer a room of rummage bins; just look for the words ‘Tania Odzież.’ Finally, the clothing market around Plac Synagogi on ul. Mickiewicza (B-3) is a great place to get stockings with runs in them and underwear stretched and displayed on a steering wheel.

NATURA Ideal for those with dietary needs, Natura sells a range of organic and gluten free health food products, honeys, coldpressed oils, teas, herbs and the like.QM‑14, ul. Kościuszki 57, tel. (+48) 601 70 70 57. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 09:0013:00; closed Sun.

GESZEFT Wonders never cease in this hip store for hipsters and lovers of divine design. We’ve never seen a place exude cool so effortlessly and everything you pick up, look at or try on makes you drool. Ease into the sleek coffee bar and grab a java drink to help you think. Wander the stylish salon which has racks of Polish designer threads, KATO-themed knick-knacks and shoulder bags, funky jewellery and even home decor. Look through art & archi books or grab a Silesian region mag while you curl up in a window seat and search for reasons to linger here a little longer. This unique boutique is one stop shopping for temporary tourists, culture vultures and fierce fashionistas alike. For misses and misters, but not to be missed.QN‑9, ul. Morcinka 23-25, tel. (+48) 534 76 76 54, www.geszeft.co. Open 11:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00; closed Sun. M2 OUTLET The exclusive boutique which now has an outlet in Katowice’s Altus Shopping Gallery, featuring collections by Celine, Chloe, Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Balmain, Isabel Marant, Aquazzura, Alexandre Birman, Kenzo, self-portrait, Tod’s, Beach Bunny, Vizali, Yves Salomon, Marc Jacobs, Love Shack Fancy, Alexander McQueen, Ameda Turquesa, Burberry, Alexandre Vauthier, Victoria Beckham, Casadei, Gianvito Rossi, Dior, Moncler, Buscemi, One Teaspoon, Maison Michel and Ralph Lauren.QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 511 41 07 22, www.moliera2.com. Open 11:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-19:00.

FLOWER SHOPS MADLEN FLOWERS Flowers are wonderful, aren’t they? A perfect gift to the ones we love. Madlen Flowers offers you traditional options for that special someone, from a bouquet of flowers (just take a look at the arrangement of said bouquets and try not to be impressed!), to gifts to have around the house, like helium ballons and to the new trend of having your very own mesmerising mini-forest in a jar! What’s better, you can choose to buy online through their site. Impressive. QO‑12, ul. Mariacka 12, tel. (+48) 577 97 42 79. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun. 82

ORGANIC FARMA ZDROWIA We’re not sure what it says about the organic farming industry and health food market when the only place to find a store like this is in a shopping mall, but here it is: a small, expensive selection of soy and gluten-free products, natural spices, oils, honeys, and other health-conscious goods.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 02 96, www.organicmarket.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:00-22:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS CEPELIA A larger version of the national folk art chain selling a range of related arts and crafts from kitsch to quintessential including some fine tapestries, wood carvings, regional dolls and even folk costumes for both men and women (upon request). This is one of the oldest shops of its type you’ll definitely find that typically Polish gift here. QN‑11, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 87 44, www.cepelia. pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. KURKA BEZ PIÓRKA A charming shop promoting art by young local artists, Kurka Bez Piórka specialises in handicrafts and fiber arts, but offers a wide range of art and accessories, including graphic prints, ceramics, hand-made jewellery, home decor items, gift baskets and even paintings and illustrations all made by Polish artists.QM‑14, ul. Powstańców 4, tel. (+48) 691 40 10 40, www. kurkabezpiorka.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Mon, Sun. SADZA SOAP This is the ultimate must-have souvenir for the Silesian enthusiast in your family. A lump of pristine coal that you can use to clean off all that coal dust you picked up from visiting one of the region’s many mines. Ok, so it may be a novelty, but it is actually high quality natural active charcoal soap with an absolutely deft design. Yet another perfect stocking stuffer. You can purchase your very own clean coal for around 30zł. They also have shampoo or body wash for 35zł, peeling soap for 40zł and a gift box for 180zł (or mini-box set for 70zł), among other special deals. You can order them online, in selected museums and info points around town or visit ‘MUS Wszystkiego Dobrego’ shop on ul. Bednorza 49/1 where their products are sold. Call or email them for more info.QN‑10, ul. Bednorza 49/1, www.sadzasoap.com. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 09:00-17:00 only.

Shopping HEALTH & BEAUTY LULUA This niche perfume and cologne shop fields orders from all over the world, but is located right in the heart of Katowice, just up from the Rynek. Specialising in unique artisanal scents, Lulua is lauded for their expertise and unparalleled customer service (a rarity in these parts). In addition to a fantastic array of olfactory enticements, from obscure manufacturers to top luxury brands, Lulua also offers luxury skin care products, shaving kits and men’s grooming accessories. This is an excellent place to pick up a unique gift for either sex.QN‑12, ul. Staromiejska 21, tel. (+48) 502 08 90 92, www.lulua.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; closed Sun.

MARKETS TARGOWISKO MIEJSKIE You haven’t really experienced Poland until you’ve smelt the unique fragrance of fruit, vegetables, fish and Chinese cotton that make up the main things for sale in a classic outdoor Polish market. This small market south of the train tracks comes with red and white striped awnings and a good selection of the aforementioned things for sale at bargain prices.QM‑13, Pl. Miarki, tel. (+48) 32 250 40 08, www. ztm.katowice.pl. Open 06:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 06:00-13:00.

SHOPPING MALLS DESIGNER OUTLET SOSNOWIEC NEW The abbreviated ‘DO Sosnowiec’ is a great way of saying in Polish (and translated well into English), ‘Go to Sosnowiec’, and now you have the perfect excuse with Designer Outlet Sosnowiec (the first in Silesia, here since 2004) offering impressive discounts of 30-70% on big name brands! The Designer Outlet mark has a nack for creating good looking buildings, giving you that feeling of walking through a chic London or Parisian style fashion arcade, the experience being as important as the huge savings you can make on your purchases. Brands on offer include Calvin Klein, Guess, Timberland, Adidas, Nike, Levis and many more. Getting there by car is easy, even if you’re travelling along the eastwest A2 motorway, take the exit for E75 then join road 79 (which leads to/from Katowice) taking you directly to the outlet. From Katowice’s main train station, you can take take a regional train (Koleje Śląskie) to Sosnowiec Główny then switch to bus 26 to get you directly to the outlet at stop Jęzor Centrum Handlowe. Alternatively, from bus stop Aleja Korfantego (in front of Hotel Katowice) take buses 77 or 149 to stop ‘Mysłowice Kopalnia’ then switch to bus 26. All journey times around 50 mins.Qul. Orląt Lwowskich 138, tel. (+48) 32 296 50 22, www.designeroutletsosnowiec.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-20:00. SILESIA CITY CENTER Located mid-way between Katowice and Chorzów on the site of an old 1904 coal mine, the spectacular Silesia City Center easily trumps everything else in the region. A combined retail, gourmet and entertainment complex,

the original 65,000 metre-square building (now over 86,000) was opened in 2005 and in 2011 hotel heiress Paris Hilton descended upon Silesia to open a new wing with 60 additional shops, 2 more restaurants, a dentist office, massage studio, beauty salon and additional parking, bringing the total number of spaces to 3,500 - the largest lot in Silesia. Designed to blend in with the surrounding Gothic architecture, this shopping mall has over 300 shops including Tesco, Media Markt and EMPiK superstores, a Cinema City movie complex and is even a decent place to eat thanks to the upstairs Bierhalle Restaurant, Hana - a magnificent sushi restaurant located externally in the mine’s former swimming pool and the industrial sheik Sztolnia restaurant. Other features include the preserved, red brick St Barbara’s Chapel and the remains of the tower that once lowered the miners underground - now the symbol of the commercial centre. Get there via tram no.s 0, 6, 11, 19 & 23 or bus no.s 108, 109, 662, 673, 674, 820, 830 & 840.QK‑9, ul. Chorzowska 107, tel. (+48) 32 605 00 00, www.silesiacitycenter.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:00-22:00. SILESIA OUTLET NEW Opened in early 2019, Silesia Outlet is the new kid on the block in Poland (the 1st stage has opened, but once the 2nd phase is complete, this will be the largest outlet in the region!). Here you’ll get the usual discounts you’d expect, ranging 30-70%, across 100 brands including men’s/women’s fashion, from premium brands like Guess, Molton, Pierre Cardin, Kazar to sportswear such as Adidas, New Balance and Puma, to name only a few! There are also designer shops to furnish your home interiors. And on that note, the outlet’s interior is modern, filled with plants, and even contains relaxation zones and play areas for the kids; perfect for while you shop. To get there from Katowice, the quickest way is to travel by car along the A4 motorway, taking the slip lane onto the no. 78 national road towards ‘Gliwice/Rybnik’ and later the slip lane to ‘CH Auchan’. Alternatively, take 30 min regional train (Koleje Śląskie) from Katowice train station to Gliwice Dworzec PKP, then take bus 194 from stop ‘Gliwice Plac Piastów’ (just east of the station) directly to the outlet’s stop ‘Bojków Auchan’. Both bus journeys take 20 mins.QUl. Rybnicka 205, tel. +48 32 889 84 45, www.silesiaoutlet.com. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat 09:0021:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

TAX REFUND GLOBAL BLUE Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT refund when the purchased goods are exported in an unused condition outside the EU in personal luggage. Shop wherever you see the Global Blue logo. The minimum total purchase value with VAT per Tax Free Form is 200zł (about €50). Keep the Tax Free Form, have it stamped when leaving the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details check www.globalblue.com.QAt participating stores, www.globalblue.com. 83

Hotels Katowice, and Silesia in general, is first and foremost a business destination, though it is quickly becoming a premier event hub for festivals, concerts, conferences and sports competitions. Reflecting this fact is an ever expanding accommodation market, with the lion’s share going to business-class hotels. Still, you can find some decent low-price options, especially if you’re willing to lay your head a bit further from the action.

IN KATOWICE B&B HOTEL KATOWICE CENTRUM QM‑11, ul. Sokolska 4, tel. (+48) 32 700 50 88, www. hotelbb.pl. 105 Total rooms. PXU6H hh

DIAMENT SPODEK QO‑10, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 606 85 85, www. hotelediament.pl. 30 rooms (1 apartment). U6K HCDF hhh HOTEL KATOWICE QN‑11, Al. Korfantego 9, tel. (+48) 32 258 82 81, www. hotel-katowice.com.pl. 161 Total rooms. U6KH hhh IBIS BUDGET KATOWICE CENTRUM QP‑11, Al. Roździeńskiego 18, tel. (+48) 32 350 50 40, www.ibisbudget.com. 124 Total rooms. PU6 h

CAMPANILE QQ‑16, ul. Sowińskiego 48, tel. (+48) 32 205 50 50, www.campanile.com. 77 Total rooms. PUL 6 KH hh

JOPI HOSTEL QN‑13, ul. Plebiscytowa 23, tel. (+48) 32 204 34 32, www.jopihostel.pl. 11 rooms (4 doubles, 1 triple, 1 quad, 2 six-person room, 1 seven-person room, 1 nine-person room, 49 dorm beds).

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT KATOWICE CITY CENTER QO‑11, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 438 93 50, www.marriott.com. 151 rooms (15 suites, 1 apartment). PULKHF hhhh

MONOPOL QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 5, tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.monopolkatowice.hotel.com.pl. 108 rooms (3 apartments). PUL6KHCDF hhhhh

DIAMENT PLAZA KATOWICE QN‑12, ul. Dworcowa 9, tel. (+48) 32 746 70 90, www. hotelediament.pl. 45 rooms (1 apartment). PUL 6KHF hhhh

NOVOTEL KATOWICE CENTRUM QP‑11, Al. Roździeńskiego 16, tel. (+48) 32 200 44 44, www.accorhotels.com. 300 Total rooms. PU6K HCDF hhhh

Hotel B&B Katowice Centrum ul. Sokolska 4, Katowice +48 32 700 50 88 5 min

from main Railway Station

from

179 zł Book at

www.hotelbb.pl 84

PARK INN BY RADISSON KATOWICE QK‑3, ul. Bytkowska 1A, tel. (+48) 32 721 11 11, www. parkinn.com/hotel-katowice. 168 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6KHDF hhhh PATIO ZAJAZD Qul. Kościuszki 352, tel. (+48) 32 202 95 56, www. patiozajazd.pl. 23 Total rooms. 6K Q HOTEL PLUS KATOWICE QN‑13, ul. Wojewódzka 12, tel. (+48) 32 740 99 40, www.qhotels.pl. 121 rooms (1 apartment). PUK HF hhhh SENATOR QQ‑12, ul. 1 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 698 76 74 25, www. senator.katowice.pl. 49 rooms (1 apartment). L6K H hhh SILESIAN HOTEL QUALITY AND ECONOMY QO‑16, ul. Szybowcowa 1A, tel. (+48) 32 606 88 00, www.silesianhotel.pl. 200 rooms (8 apartments). PU 6KHCD hhh TWÓJ HOSTEL KATOWICE QI‑10, ul. Klimczoka 7, tel. (+48) 32 202 30 25, www. twojhostel.pl. 60 rooms (2 doubles, 20 triples, 20 quads, 7 five-person room, 2 six-person room, 2 seven-person room, 215 dorm beds). U

Hotels VIENNA HOUSE EASY KATOWICE QM‑10, ul. Sokolska 24, tel. (+48) 32 783 81 00, www. viennahouse.com. 203 rooms (17 apartments). PU KHDF hhhh

IN CHORZÓW DIAMENT ARSENAL PALACE KATOWICE/ CHORZÓW QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 832 89 90, www.hotelediament.pl. 115 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6 KHCDFw hhhh DIAMENT BELLA NOTTE KATOWICE/CHORZÓW QC‑2, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 606 82 82, www.hotelediament.pl. 45 rooms (1 apartment). UL6H hhh

AROUND UPPER SILESIA DESILVA INN KATOWICE AIRPORT Qul. Równoległa 2, Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 393 88 88, www. desilva.pl. 77 Total rooms. PU6KHF hhh DIAMENT ECONOMY GLIWICE Qul. Zwycięstwa 42, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231 18 21, www.hotelediament.pl. 27 Total rooms. UL6 hhh DIAMENT PLAZA GLIWICE Qul. Zwycięstwa 30, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 721 70 90, www. hotelediament.pl. 93 Total rooms. PL6KH hhhh DIAMENT VACANZA SIEMIANOWICE ŚLĄSKIE Qul. Olimpijska 4, Siemianowice Śląskie, tel. (+48) 32 606 83 83, www.hotelediament.pl. 44 rooms (1 apartment). UL6KH hhh HOTEL RYCERSKI (KNIGHTS HOTEL) Qul. Będzińska 53, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www. hotel-rycerski.pl. 26 rooms (1 apartment). KH hhh HOTEL SZAFRAN Qul. Będzińska 82, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 784 31 00, www.hotelszafran.pl. 115 rooms (7 apartments). PU 6KHF hhhh IBIS KATOWICE - ZABRZE Qul. Jagiellońska 4, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 777 70 00, www.ibis.com. 114 Total rooms. PKH hh M HOTEL SOSNOWIEC Qul. Wojska Polskiego 199, Sosnowiec, tel. (+48) 32 363 63 00, www.mhotelsosnowiec.pl. 55 Total rooms. UL6K HF hhh QUBUS HOTEL GLIWICE Qul. Dworcowa 27, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 300 11 00, www.qubushotel.com. 89 rooms (4 apartments). PU6K H hhh

PARK HOTEL DIAMENT ZABRZE Qul. 3-go Maja 122A, Zabrze, (Zaborze Południe), tel. (+48) 32 721 10 00, www.hotelediament.pl. 74 rooms (3 apartments). PLKHDF hhhh ROYAL Qul. Matejki 10, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 400 00 00, www. hotelroyal.com.pl. 50 Total rooms. PLKHDF hhh WILLA AMBASADOR Qul. 3 Maja 78, Zabrze (Śródmieście), tel. (+48) 32 271 50 44, www.mosir.zabrze.pl. 24 Total rooms. PK

APARTMENTS HORNIGOLD W ZIELONEJ KAMIENICY QM‑13, ul. Kopernika 6, tel. (+48) 32 608 42 52, www. hornigold.pl. 34 apartments. PUL6HDw MOSQUITO SILESIA APARTMENTS QM‑12, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 694 26 63 54, www. mosquitosilesiaapartments.com.pl. 10 apartments. P WELLCOME HOME .QM‑12, ul. Jana Matejki 4/2, tel. (+48) 32 555 04 44, www.wellcome-home.com. 85

Index 3 Siostry Bajgiel i Kawa 56 AïOLI Inspired by Katowice 70 Amfora Restaurant & Cocktail Bar 70 Arthouse Cinemas Katowice 44 Baklava 70 Bar a Boo 69 Bar Monopol 56, 64 B&B Hotel Katowice Centrum 84 Biała Małpa 77 Bierhalle 64 bistro & cafe zielnik 65 Botanika 72 Browariat 78 Buddha 64 Bujna 72 BUŁKĘS 65 Burgundia Wine Tastings & Wine Shop 80 BWA Contemporary Art Gallery 31 Cadenza 71 Cafe Byfyj 42 Campanile 84 Centrum Zimbardo 42 Cepelia 82 C'est Si Bon 63 Chata z Zalipia 71 City Information Office 27 City Pub 77 Coffee-jka 56 Courtyard by Marriott Katowice City Center 84 Cristallo 69 Desa 81 Designer Outlet Sosnowiec 83 DeSilva Inn Katowice Airport 85 Diament Arsenal Palace Katowice/Chorzów 85 Diament Bella Notte Katowice/

Chorzów 85 Diament Economy Gliwice 85 Diament Plaza Gliwice 85 Diament Plaza Katowice 84 Diament Spodek 84 Diament Vacanza Siemianowice Śląskie 85 Drzwi Zwane Koniem 77 Dzień i Noc 65 Ekspedycja Coffeehouse 57 Elka Cableway 37 El Mexicano 70 Empik 81 English Service Taxi 21 Fabryka Porcelany (Porcelain Factory) 52 Flyspot Katowice 44 Food & Ball 65 Galeria Sztuki Fox 81 Geszeft 82 Global Blue 83 Guido Mineshaft 51 Hana Sushi 61 Hipnoza Jazz Club 78 Hospoda 63 Hotel Katowice 84 Hotel Rycerski 85 Hotel Szafran 85 Hurry Curry 61 Ibis Budget Katowice Centrum 84 Ibis Katowice - Zabrze 85 I Coal You 81 India Garden Restaurant & Catering 64 Industrial Ethnography Museum 42 INQbator 78 International Congress Centre 33 Jopi Hostel 84 JUMPCITY 47

FEATURES INDEX Decoding the Menu Eat & drink Getting to auschwitz Hot beer? Polish Words & Phrases Polish seasonal foods Street Art Sunday Shopping Ban Tourist Info & Tours Transport Tools/Apps Tipping tribulations Where to eat & drink Vegetarian & vegan Vodka Translator 86

61 42 55 75 22 66 30 80 27 19 62 35 72 75

If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed, you’ll likely find it among the hundreds of places in Katowice listed on our website: katowice.inyourpocket.com Kato 78 Katowice Forest Park 35 Katowice Historical Museum 30 Katowice Miasto Ogrodów 31 Klub Prime 78 Kofeina Mini 66 Kolejkowo - A Wonderful World in Miniature 45 Komis Płytowy 81 Kondrat Wina Wybrane 80 Krystynka Wraca z Wiednia Bistro & Cafe 66 Kurka Bez Piórka 82 La Cantina 35 Laserhouse 47 Len Arte 69 Lilou 81 Lily Nail Spa 45 Little Hanoi...and more! 62 Lobby Bar 66 Lulua 83 M2 Outlet 82 Madlen Flowers 82 M Hotel Sosnowiec 85 Monopol 84 moodro restaurant 73 Morcinka 3A 72 Mosquito Silesia Apartments 85 Natura 82 NOSPR - Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra 33 NOVO 69 Novotel Katowice Centrum 84 Oh My Ramen 62 Organic Coffee & More 57 Organic Farma Zdrowia 82 P23 39 Pan de Rossa 35 Parachute Tower 34 Park Hotel Diament Zabrze 85 Park Inn by Radisson Katowice 84 Pasibus 61 Patio 66 Patio Park 67 Patio Zajazd 67, 84 Prodiż Bistro 38 Prodiż Nero Restaurant 39 PTTK Katowice 27 Public Ice Skating Rinks 44 Q Hotel Plus Katowice 84 Qubus Hotel Gliwice 85 Quebab Factory 71 Queen Louise Adit 51 Queens 77 Rajzefiber 78

Restauracja Kuchnia Otwarta 72 Restauracja Max 67 Restauracja Pod Drewnianym Bocianem 68 Restauracja Tamarynd 68 Restauracja Vacanza 68 Royal 85 Rycerski 72 Rynek 28 Sadza Soap 82 Sakana Sushi Bar 62 Scena54 78 Senator 84 Shrimp House 70 Silesia City Center 83 Silesian Freedom & Solidarity Centre 35 Silesian Hotel Quality and Economy 84 Silesian Museum 33 Silesian Parliament 30 Silesian Zoo 37 Silesia Outlet 83 SilesiaTrip.pl 27 Śląska Prohibicja 42 SmaQ Food & Wine 72 Souvlaki Bar 64 Spiż 78 Spodek 32 St. Anne's Church 41 Steakhouse Da Da 68 Sztolnia. Chleb. Mięso. Wino 63 Tadeusz Kościuszko Park 34 Targowisko Miejskie 83 Tarnowskie Góry Mines 52 Tatiana 68 Thai Sabai 45 The Modernist Architecture Trail 31 Twój Hostel Katowice 84 Ul. Mariacka 28 Valley of Three Ponds 35 Via Toscana 70 Vienna House Easy Katowice 85 Visiting Auschwitz 54 Wellcome Home 85 WHISKY & SPIRIT HOUSE 80 Wiejska Chatka 72 Willa Ambasador 85 Wilson Shaft Gallery 41, 52 W. Krzyś 81 WunderBAR 64 Zaklęty Czardasz 64 Zinc Rolling Mill 52 Złoty Róg 73 Żurownia 73

Gliwice ul. Ceglarska 35 www.queensnightclub.pl Open: 18:00 - 05:00 tel. 032/ 305 30 20

American Bar

Erotic Show Dance

Go-Go Dance

We invite you to Queens nightclub. Discretion is of our highest concern, as immediately evidenced by our parking lot. The interior design of the rooms and equipment complement each other to create an intimate, erotic atmosphere. We dedicate the greatest care to the cleanliness of the club. Your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Genießen Sie in angenehmer Atmosphäre, die perfekt gemixten Drinks unserer Bar, die prickelnde Erotikshow der QUEENS - Girl´s auf der Bühne, während Sie sich entspannt in einem der vielen Sofas zurücklehnen. Sie erleben eine Tabledance Show der Extraklasse, die perfekt aufeinander abgestimmt ist. Die Sound & Lichttechnik im QUEENS Striptease Club unterstreicht dieses noch. Geniessen Sie einen “Private Dance”, den persönlichen Striptease, nur für Sie mit einer Tänzerin Ihrer Wahl. Die Tänzerinnen des Nachtclub´s, verstehen es Erotik, Verführung, Varieté und Akrobatik miteinander zu verbinden. Ob Junggesellenabschied, Firmenfeier, Geburtstag, Vereinsfeier oder Abschlußfeier, der Tabledance Club ist der ideale Ort um einen unvergesslichen Abend zu erleben und tabulos zu feiern. “Dich erwartet eine exzellente Tabledance - Erotikshow” Wir freuen uns auf euren Besuch Euer QUEENS - Team

SILESIASTYLE CENTER OF FASHION & TRENDS ENTERTAIN YOURSELF IN A PLACE WITH OVER 300 SHOPS, CAFÃ&#x2030;S AND RESTAURANTS. HERE YOU CAN FEEL FREE TO CHOOSE AND ALWAYS BE FULLY INSPIRED. VISIT THE TOP-NOTCH SHOPPING CENTER OF LIVING FASHION, INSPIRING TRENDS AND MEMORABLE EVENTS TO ENJOY YOUR SPARE TIME.

Katowice In Your Pocket - November 2019 - February 2020

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Winter in Silesia