Warsaw In Your Pocket Guide_ Autumn 2021

Page 54

Sightseeing | Warsaw Uprising

Warsaw Uprising The Monument to the Warsaw Uprising depicts fighters preparing for battle.

August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Wisła, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the Armia Krajowa or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler.

17:00 - W-Hour On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 5pm signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a chronic lack of weapons. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital. 54

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians. After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and


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Shopping

7min
pages 94-100

Clubs � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

7min
pages 90-92

Bars � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

8min
pages 86-89

Adult Entertainment � � � � � � � � � �

2min
page 93

New & Featured � � � � � � � � � � �

1min
page 85

Vegan & Vegetarian � � � � � � � � � �

4min
pages 80-81

Food Markets � � � � � � � � � � � �

4min
pages 82-84

Casual Dining � � � � � � � � � � � �

10min
pages 76-79

Fine Dining � � � � � � � � � � � � �

9min
pages 72-75

New & Featured � � � � � � � � � � �

1min
pages 70-71

Traditional Polish Dishes � � � � � � � �

3min
pages 68-69

Breakfast & Brunch

3min
pages 66-67

Day Trips from Warsaw

3min
pages 64-65

Powiśle Walking Tour � � � � � � � � �

2min
page 42

Kids & Families

3min
pages 62-63

Activities & Experiences

3min
pages 60-61

Warsaw Uprising � � � � � � � � � � �

5min
pages 54-55

Jewish Warsaw � � � � � � � � � � � �

9min
pages 50-53

Wilanów � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

1min
page 40

The Royal Route � � � � � � � � � � �

2min
page 30

Transport

6min
pages 20-21

The Golden Polish Autumn in Warsaw � � �

7min
pages 10-13

What’s On in Warsaw: Autumn 2021 � � � �

9min
pages 16-18

Old Town Walking Tour � � � � � � � � �

1min
page 24

Essential Warsaw � � � � � � � � � � �

2min
pages 22-23

Warsaw Breweries: A cosmopolitan feast � �

5min
pages 14-15

Such a Landscape: Wilhelm Sasnal at POLIN �

2min
page 19

Foreword

2min
page 6
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