No. 138, February – March
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Located on the Vistula River at the very crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw is the 8th most populous city in the European Union (1.8 million people) and a major cultural, political and economic hub.
The city has had a troubled history ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his royal court from Kraków, making Warsaw the new Polish capital in 1569. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by Russia for most of the 19th century, Poland was off the map for 123 years before returning in the aftermath of WWI. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, as the city developed on par with other great European capitals.
WWII brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose up against their German occupiers in August 1944, only for Soviet forces to look on as the Nazis brutally crushed the Uprising and destroyed the city in reprisal. When the fires were extinguished, 150,000 more civilians were dead and German occupation had merely been traded for Soviet oppression, as Poland was pinned under Moscow’s influence for the next four decades, during which Warsaw was rebuilt in communist fashion, earning a reputation as a charmless city of concrete.
But that was then, this is now. A compelling blend of East and West, past and future, today’s Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. Gone are the gloomy images of yesteryear as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you’re here to explore trendsetting urban culture or UNESCO treasures, world-class dining or luxury boutiques, you’ll hardly be disappointed by all the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw!
Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting.
Over here at IYP we still believe that the best way to understand the space you’re in is with a map, and the most immersive way to explore it is on foot. As such, our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. Selfguided district tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport.
Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p.2-3. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Venue Index in the back of the guide to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.
Ducks swim in the pond in front of the Palace on the Isle in Warsaw's Łazienki Park during the winter months. The park is a popular spot for wildlife.
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Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover.
Here is some extra content we wish we had room for in print this issue:
Read through our entire guide, done it all and still looking for more? Of course not, but the surrounding region still offers many sites worth exploring, from national parks to spa towns.
Many consider Warsaw essentially closed-down in winter. But that's not true! From food markets to winter attractions, Warsaw is a winter wonderland.
Warsaw is a city with a rich art history -- especially in the 20th century when tons of prolific artists created everything from major fibre sculptures to surrealist oil paintings. Check out our favorites here!
Editor: Anna Merriman
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Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494
Research: Karolina Adamik
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All content copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k. and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.
Poland has a long history of feminism, dating back to the 18th century and earlier. In fact, it was one of the first countries in Europe that gave women the right to vote -- in 1918 (the same year as the UK and two full years before the United States).
Of course, that was hardly the end of feminist activism in Poland -- over the last century, the women’s rights movement has challenged stereotypes of women as simply mothers and wives, has fought for reproductive rights for women, and has campaigned for equality of the sexes. So this Women’s Month (in March), it’s only apt that we celebrate strong women who have contributed so much to Polish society.
It would hardly be an article about Varsovian women without at least a whole section dedicated to Marie Skłodowska-Curie! Born in Warsaw, in 1867 (though at that point, Warsaw was part of the Kingdom of Poland and under Russian rule), she studied in Warsaw before moving to Paris as a young adult. In Paris she thrived, becoming a trailblazer in science and academia and, along with
her husband Pierre Curie, developed the theory of radioactivity, for which they were awarded the 1903 Nobel Prize in Physics. After her husband’s death in 1906, Skłodowska-Curie continued her research and went on to win the 1911 Nobel Prize in Chemistry for her discovery of radium and polonium -- the latter of which she named after her beloved home country. She went on to found the Curie Institutes in Paris and Warsaw, which became major medical research centers. She also never lost touch with her Polish heritage, teaching her daughters to speak fluent Polish and taking them to visit the country in their youth. Her discoveries in radioactivity revolutionised the field of medicine and paved the way for future generations of scientists
Your best bet to learn about the prolific scientist would be a stop at the Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum (p.68). Located in the recently renovated
building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the Nobel Prizewinning physicist and chemist, including displays of Curie’s personal letters, along with artifacts, a recreation of her lab and more. ul. Freta 16
During World War II, Irena Sendler was a gentile nurse who risked her life to save over 2,500 Jewish children from the Warsaw Ghetto. Working with the Polish Underground Resistance and Polish Council to Aid Jews, she smuggled Jewish children out of the Warsaw Ghetto, gave them fake documents, placed them with Polish families, and kept meticulous records to reunite them with their families after the war. The children were often given Christian names and taught Christian prayers in case they were tested. In October 1943 she was arrested by the Gestapo and sentenced to death but managed to escape. Despite her horrific ordeal, Irena Sendler continued to work as as nurse (albeit under a different name) including working in a field hospital during the Warsaw Uprising, helping to hide Jewish patients among the others.
What to See
For Irena Sendler, we would seriously recommend a stop at the impressive POLIN Museum (p.73), which in 2013 named its main walkway after Sendler. They have also regularly hosted events honoring Sendler or temporary exhibits remembering her work and impact. Even if you don’t get to see one of those, it’s well worth a trip to the museum to learn over 1000 years of Polish Jewish history.
Born in 1936 in Warsaw, Osiecka was a Polish poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which were turned into pop hits. Osiecka spent much of her younger years in the gorgeous mountainous Zakopane region but returned to Warsaw to attend Warsaw University for journalism. She also went to Łódż to study film directing at a prestigious film school there. She went on to write songs -- many of a political nature -- and books before her death in Warsaw in 1997.
A fairly interesting sidenote: she was briefly married to film producer, Wojciech Frykowski, who was one of the people killed by Charles Manson’s family in what would turn out to be one of the crimes of the century in the US.
A lovely statue in honor of Osiecka is located right in Saska Kępa in Praga (p.62) on the popular ul. Francuska street. The statue depicts her at a table, a piece of writing laid out in front of her. The memorial is frequently covered in tributes to the author, journalist, poet and songwriter. People will leave flowers, candles and other little offerings.
is a unique restaurant in the heart of Warsaw, created by SPOMLEK - the Polish Dairy. Welcome to a culinary journey with the best Polish long maturing cheeses. Discover their rich taste in exquisite dishes, original desserts and unique combinations that will delight every gourmet!
BursztyNova Restaurant Warsaw, Królewska 16 (+48) 519 310 110
One of the most well-known textile artists from Poland is Magdalena Abakanowicz -- the creations she’s made have challenged the limits of what “art” and “sculpture” mean, and her life growing up in and around Warsaw is fascinating. Born in 1930 in Falenty (just south of Warsaw), Abakanowicz worked as a nurse during WWII when she was just 14. Later, she enrolled in the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw and, like many other artists at the time, ran up against resistence and constraints by the government. A young Abakanowicz turned from painting to, more frequently, textiles for artistic expression. She continued to paint but over the years also took up weaving as an art form and later, in the 1960s, produced her famous Abkans. The 3D fiber works hang up to 13 feet from the ceiling and are made of a weaving technique Abakanowicz herself created.
What to See: Luckily for everyone around Warsaw, it’s easy to see Abakonwicz’s works at the newly opened Modern Art Museum (p.69) right in the center of Warsaw. A large, hanging fiber work called “Monumental Composition” made by Abakonowicz can be found at the museum.
We would be seriously remiss if we didn’t mention Olga Tokarczuk. A Polish writer, activist, and public intellectual, she is one of the most critically acclaimed and successful authors of her generation in Poland; in 2019, she was awarded the 2018 Nobel Prize in Literature as the first Polish female prose writer for “a narrative imagination that with encyclopaedic passion represents the crossing of boundaries as a form of life.” As a result, many of her books have been translated into other languages and even adapted into films.
Though she wasn’t born in Warsaw, her connection to the city is undeniable. She studied at the University of Warsaw and now teaches clinical psychology at the same university. In 2020, she was awarded an “honorary citizen of Warsaw” position for her work.
What to See: In this case, what to read. We suggest arguably her most famous book: Drive Your Plough Over the Bones of the Dead, a fascinating book that blends some fantastical elements, thriller and feminism. In 2018, Tokarczuk won the Nobel Prize for Literature for the work.
AESTHETIC MEDICINE
AESTHETIC DERMATOLOGY COSMETOLOGY
COSMETIC SURGERY
AESTHETIC GYNECOLOGY
AESTHETIC DENTISTRY
ESTELL FOREST
UL. BURAKOWSKA 14 01-066 WARSZAWA
MONDAY–FRIDAY: 8.00AM–9.00PM SATURDAY: 9.00AM–06.00PM
ESTELL KLIF UL. OKOPOWA 58/72 01-042 WARSZAWA
MONDAY–FRIDAY: 8.00AM–9.00PM SATURDAY: 9.00AM–06.00PM
ESTELL SENATOR UL. BIELAŃSKA 12 00-085 WARSZAWA
MONDAY–FRIDAY: 8.00AM–9.00PM SATURDAY: 9.00AM–06.00PM
Warsaw is known today as an international city teeming with towering buildings, vibrant culture, and world-class cuisine. But amid the bustle and constant expansion of the capital city, there are few places that really stick out like its newest exciting addition to the culinary scene: LOMI Restaurant.
With a blend of vintage and modern architecture that pairs perfectly with delectable, hyper-authentic Georgian food, LOMI Restaurant is coming onto the Warsaw restaurant scene with a bang.
And that bang comes in the form of soft, fresh-baked bread, succulent eggplant appetizers, delicious fish cooked at the table, garlic sauces, spice and herb toppings, world-class wines and a dining experience that is just all-around incredible. And it’s all served within a renovated pre-war building with little pops of detail that encapsulate both the old and the new of the capital city.
Walk down the prominent Marszałkowska street, and you’ll undoubtedly stop to gawk at LOMI. Located on Marszałkowska just a few feet south of Hoża, it’s hard to miss. Part of that is because it’s located in a renovated, 127-year-old tenement house, with much
of its original pre-war facade intact, including a stone and brick exterior that gives it that gorgeous, early 20th-century feel.
While the building itself survived the war, it underwent a restoration in 1997 to return it to its pre-war state. It also served as home to both bank and candle shop before its newest owners took over.
And this is where the LOMI Restaurant story begins – amid a restored 19th century building rife with architectural and design details. The building was bought by a couple from Georgia who had been living in Ukraine up until the war broke out in 2022. When they came to Warsaw, the couple set about buying and renovating the Marszałkowska space, naming it Lomi, which means “lion” in Georgian.
The results of their purchase and renovation over the last few months aren’t just beautiful, they’re meaningful too. They’re a clear nod to the romanticism of Georgian culture in every little
detail, from the candles on the lamps, to the original flooring under your feet. Inside, you’ll find interior windows with colored glass panels, antique-looking chandeliers, an open kitchen area, and multiple rooms that either allow for open-space dining or for more private parties. In fact, one VIP room seats 10 to 14 people – perfect for birthday parties or larger gatherings.
Even the very entrance is inviting – when you step through the doors you’re first met with a half-circle marble countertop on which chefs will be making Georgian bread using a traditional Tandir oven, while others will be folding Chinkali (a Georgian dumpling stuffed with meat or savory cheese). Stop by for a look and a sample!
Georgian dining is all about community – food is home in Georgia. And LOMI Restaurant embraces that idea completely, with an array of appetizers and dishes to share (as well as personal sizes) at their large tables, some of which can seat up to six or eight people!
The head chef, an award-winning Georgian cook, will serve up some incredible dishes (75 in total!) along with her own homemade cheese and sauces.Start with appetizers that consist of eggplant, nut paste, pomegranates and herbs or try others like herb and spice pastes with spinach, carrot and eggplant, which you can spread on slices of fresh bread.
Don’t miss their open fire grill, which cooks up three different styles of meat, including kebab, beef, and a chicken and turkey blend. Their Mangal grill (a traditional charcoal grill) also cooks up whole fish and chicken, which are brought to the table to finish. Watch as the waiter pours chacha (a Georgian liquor) on the meat and completes the cooking process right in front of you!
Try soups like a fresh chicken and spice soup, or variations on the chicken soup we all know, cooked with whole tomatoes. Salads include tons of herbs and nuts (though they can be made without, depending on allergies and personal preference), which are a fresh accompaniment to the rich meat dishes.
The main offers are incredible, too, like meat served in a warm clay dish or served in a garlic cream sauce, and a half-chicken drenched in a sauce made from cherries and forest fruits (both sweet and a little sour).
When dessert rolls around, trying a traditional churchkhela is a must. A grape and walnut candy with a sticky sweet exterior, churchkhela are traditional in Georgia and extremely popular.
Lomi has also done an excellent job of focusing on their wine selection. Here you’ll find more than 100 different types of wines from all over Europe and Georgia. There's Italian and French but if you’re interested in having the full experience, don’t miss Georgian wine. Traditionally a higher percent than most wines, they’re also incredibly delicious and wellbalanced. Whereas Italian and French wines are often made in oak barrels, Georgians tend to make theirs in kvevri, or large earthenware vessels which they store in the ground during the fermentation process.
Sip on some wine, try a paste of herbs and spices, bite into some fresh fish cooked at the table, and delight in a sweet fruit dessert after dinner – you’ve gotten the full, Georgian experience.
And while there are a lot of Georgian restaurants across the city of Warsaw, there are few that are simply as authentic as LOMI Restaurant. If you’re going to venture out and immerse yourself in Georgian cuisine, there’s no better place.
LOMI Restaurant
QG‑9, ul. Marszałkowska 72, MCentrum, (+48) 799 035 005 www.instagram.com/lomi_rest/. Open 11:00 23:00; Fri Sun 11:00 24:00. €€. ET6
Browary Warszawskie (Warsaw Breweries) is one of the capital’s most exciting urban renewal achievements - a 4.5-hectare area in the heart of Wola that has been phenomenally transformed from a forgotten industrial plot into a vibrant microcosm of culture, gastronomy and nightlife!
And the list of things to do here — from events like live music, to cuisines from around the world, to a stunning outdoor garden (accented by painted steps and lush plants in the summer), to bars serving up excellent cocktails – is endless.
Formerly the site of the Haberbusch & Schiele Brewery, Browary Warszawskie spent years as a neglected industrial site. The former brewery itself was established in 1846 as the largest brewery in Poland and one of the most prominent around Europe. But after World War II devastated the city – and the brewery with it – the owners turned to producing Coca-cola instead. But don’t worry – the brewery eventually returned in full force in the 21st century (more on that below).
However after decades of communism in the 20th century, the space fell into neglect. That is until 2017 when Echo Investment, with a team of architects, looked at ways to revitalize the space. Over the
course of seven years they turned it into a bustling hub within the capital city – albeit without losing its history. Today parts of the former brewery – the Malthouse Lab and the 170-year-old cellars – still exist here, giving it both a modern and vintage charm.
The modern touches come from everything else. Today’s revamped Browary complex beautifully mixes bold modern architecture with historic brick buildings, industrial-chic interiors with green commons, and commercial spaces with residential comforts.
Enter Browary Warszawskie’s campus and you’ll be hit with a host of delightful smells, from fresh-baked bread to warm roasted coffee, to the sweet smell of pastries and the savory scent of cooking meat. That’s because this spot offers food and drink from around northern Europe, the Mediterranean, and east Asia.
At the apex is Food Hall Browary - a casual indoor food market with 13 contemporary food concepts from around the world plus the Central Bar for drinks.
Next door - at the very heart of the complex’s historical legacy and modern revival - Browar Warszawski (The Warsaw Brewery) offers a super batch of 19 varieties of craft beer brewed in plain view, including the legendary Grodziskie and Porter from the early days of the brewery. Plus a full card of food, from juicy pork knuckle to fresh seafood. The former brewery from the early 20th century whose operations were interrupted nearly 100 years ago, is once again alive and well! In fact, you can see for yourself how thriving this brewery is with tours that are organized regularly – just contact the brewery for more!
Hungry folks may actually be on the lookout for somewhere to catch the game on the big screen, in which case their destination should be the ‘fan zone’ NINE’s Restaurant & Sports Bar. Named after the player number of Polish footballer and co-owner, Robert Lewandowski, the restaurant section of this establishment has an international menu developed around the Polish captain’s proclivity for a healthy lifestyle
Executive Lounge perfectly balances class with a sophisticated menu of cocktails, and tapas. Additionally, Baila Show & Dining delivers an exclusive ‘dinner and a show’ in the form of delicious Latin American dishes with eye-catching entertainment! Enjoy excellent food and service at Mediterranean places like Mykonos (Greek dishes done exquisitely), Sobremesa Tapas Bar (Spanish tapas that will delight and leave you wanting more),
Munja and Alma (both offering Balkan food to warm the belly) and amazing Olivos (with all of its authentic Greek flair). Plus, Wyraj, with authentic Slavic food and Bombaj Masala Wola (Indian food that’s seriously out of this world) are both a must. In addition to proper meals, there are several gourmet delicatessens, bakeries, cafes and sweet shops, namely: Crazy Butcher, Piccola Italia deli, Good Lood ice cream (the best in PL). Meanwhile Dobro & Dobro, Vita Cafe, and Etno all serve up some incredible coffee (with delicate sandwiches and sweets, while Deseo Patisserie & Chocolaterie, and the excellent Bakery Browary Warszawskie offer artisanal bread and amazing pastries (that’s a ‘proper meal’ to us). Don’t skip on incredible fresh bread from BAKEN either!
Since the complex first opened, gastro tenants here have regularly participated in special projects and promotions ranging from themed menus and culinary competitions to food festivals and other collective events that bring them together in the neighborhood’s shared spaces!
That's just the beginning: Browary is continuing to keep things super cool with attractions and activities for kids, teens, parents, and seniors, all year long.
From February 3 to 16 you can check out free educational art workshops for children, including creative and culinary classes. Also don’t miss their ice skating lessons with an instructor, held right at the Browary space! For sports fans, Nines has you covered with a major super bowl party on Feb. 9 featuring tons of screens to watch the game, cold drinks and lip-smacking snacks!
There are plenty more things to check out this season on their website and facebook page – and keep them in mind for the warmer months, too, as you’ll find all kinds of live outdoor events hosted here.
Browary Warszawskie is more than just the beating heart of Wola – it’s one of Warsaw’s best hubs for food, entertainment, architecture and things to do. Seriously this one is a do-not-miss!
QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 60, MRondo Daszyńskiego link www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl facebook2 facebook.com/BrowaryWarszawskieOfficial brand12 @browarywarszawskie
Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego!
Barszcz
A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.
Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.
Golonka
Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.
This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.
Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.
Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.
These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.
It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.
The Italians have wine, the Spaniards have wine. The French…. also wine. But what does Poland do best when it comes to alcohol? Vodka and beer.
These are the two most popular alcoholic beverages in Poland, and that means that brewers and distillers alike have spent a lot of time honing their crafts. Here’s a rundown of the history of these two popular drinks.
The name “vodka” (an anglicised version of the Polish “wódka” pronounced “v-ood-kah”) means quite literally “little water.” The origins of the drink date back to the 8th century, when distillation was discovered and the practice began to sweep across Europe. When it comes to vodka itself, the first written record of the drink came out in 1405 in Poland.
Originally, it was used as medicine: it helped treat wounds, numb pain, make perfume. But the consumption of vodka became more popular in the 15th and 16th centuries as it became industrialized across the country, with distilleries opening in Kraków, Gdańsk and Poznań (in fact, the popular Żubrówka vodka dates back to this century).
The popularization of vodka continued at a quick clip in Poland, hitting some bumps along the way
(production slowed during the wars at the beginning of the 20th century). Now, Poland is one of the top three producers of vodka in the world, and produced nearly 100 million liters in 2016 alone.
Poles are proud of their vodka and as a result, there are many traditions surrounding the drink. You may not run into all of them when you visit, but here’s a run-down just in case:
Na zdrowie – say this as you clink glasses and make sure to look your drinking partner in the eye or you’ll have years (some say 7, some say 5) of bad luck.
Christmas vodka – drinking a shot of vodka (sipping, not tossing it back) with some good pickled fish (Śledź) is a classic Christmas tradition. In fact, pickled fish and vodka commonly go together at any time of year.
Wedding shots – After the ceremony, the bride and groom will each get a shot of vodka and they’re supposed to down the shot, toss the glasses behind their backs, and break them. The broken glasses signify good luck in the marriage.
There are many good Polish vodkas but also some classics.
Żubrówka – this is a Polish vodka from the 16th century that is just a classic staple. One popular kind has a sprig of bison grass inside, which makes the drink a little bright and earthy.
Goldwasser – bet you didn’t know this was Polish! This is a classic from the Gdańsk area, and you’ll know it because it has gold flakes floating inside and a slightly cinnamon-y taste.
Chopin – This is just a good vodka. It’s not too sharp, well balanced and it goes great with everything.
Luksusowa – Finally, the people’s vodka. This is good and affordable. This is what people buy to drink with friends on an unassuming Friday night.
Where to get it:
The better question is where not to get vodka in Warsaw? The Polish Vodka Museum (p.61) and the Vodka Museum (p.71) will each take you on a tour through the history of vodka and give you a chance to try some! Klar (G-5) is known for their unique vodka flavors, which are constantly changing as they find new ways to infuse vodka with berries, herbs and spices! Pijalnia wodki i piwa is a chain with plenty of vodka types to sample and enjoy.
Poland also has a long history with beer that dates back to the middle ages. But it wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that beer became mass produced on an industrial scale. The Tychy Brewery, which produces the extremely popular beer Tyskie, has been around since the 17th century.
The initial styles beloved by Poles were porters (dark beers) and then pale ales (much lighter beers) swiftly began to take over. Like vodka, beer production hit some bumps in the early 20th century but picked up again in the late century.
And that brings us to today – almost. While many of those lager-style beers have reigned in popularity for decades, the past 10 years have seen smaller breweries start getting in on the beer game. Many home brewing operations started making craft beer, and by making smaller batches than
industrial brewers, they were able to focus more on experimenting with non-traditional ingredients and techniques, leading to more interesting flavors.
Pinta – around since 2010, this brewery is one of the most popular craft breweries in all of Poland, and regularly makes hazy IPAs, sour beers, pale ales, pilsners – the works!
Funky Fluid – a Warsaw-based brewery, this is another type of craft beer that’s been gaining more and more popularity over the years for its bold flavors of hoppy, wild and sour beers (and more!)
Trzech Kumpli – brewing since the start of the craft beer craze in about 2014, this brewery makes a lot of dark beers (smoked porters, Irish stouts) as well as light lagers and pilsners.
Piwne Podziemie – one of the smaller craft breweries, but that means they can really focus on their flavorand they deliver! For the beer snobs who have tried every type, this is the beer to grab.
Well of course you can buy the large-scale, industrial beers (Tyskie, Lech, Żywiec) pretty much anywhere. But for craft beers, you have to know where to go. Pinta has a bar specializing in their beers on Chimelnia Street. Other bars like Jabeerwocky (G-8), Kufle i Kapsle, will also offer great craft beers, Bierhalle (p.101), and Browary Warszawskie (p.28) are very popular, too. Plus, don’t miss the beer festivals held in the spring and fall in Warsaw!
Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is fast, efficient and affordable; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing and frustrating. As such, for visitors the city centre is best navigated by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi/ride share - all of which are explained here. For detailed info about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website.
Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,900 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:00-23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.
Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only.
A standard single fare costs 4.40zł for 75min, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket
that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find wall dispensers next to the gates and hang on to the ticket for multiple rides). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket).
Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you’re ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there’s one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl
Renting a scooter (the motorbike kind, think Vespa) is certainly a more fun, stylish and convenient option than the bus, tram or searching for car parking. Skutery Centrum is located just minutes from the train station and offers a large selection of sporty and stylish rides. QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 32/34, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 99 77 60, www.skutery centrum.pl. Open 07:30 19:30.
WawaBus offers a private transportation service to bring you to and from the airport, your hotel, your dinner reservation an! Not only that, but the sleek, modern cars and well-experienced drivers ensure that your trips will be as hassle-free, comfortable and enjoyable as possible! In addition to being prompt and experienced, the drivers each know at least one foreign language, so don't be concerned about communicating. Plus, the service is offered 24/7 so you can relax when it comes to getting to that 6 a.m. flight.QG‑8, ul. Dziatwy 14C/12, tel. (+48) 515 00 10 01, wawabus.pl/en. Open 24/7.
Want your own car, but just for a short while? Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder. You can rent a vehicle for as long as you want at only 4.99zł to start and then 1.69 zł per kilometer, or for 24 hours for only 69zł a day and then 1.19zł per kilometer. Qwww.traficar.pl. Prices are calculated as 4.99zł to start a journey, plus 1.69zł/km.
When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.36), regal Royal Route (p.44) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.54) and Wilanów (p.58), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.26), happening Powiśle (p.50) and scruffy Praga (p.60). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights.
More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p.37
A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p.40.
Warsaw’s left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow.QSee p.51.
Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing or simply relaxing.QSee p.54
Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237-metre-high structure was Warsaw’s tallest building until 2021, and takes its inspiration from the capitalist worldnamely the Empire State Building. Working around the clock, it took over 5,000 workers - ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village - just three years to finish the Palace in 1955 With 3,288 rooms inside, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just Communist Party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Now an iconic part of Warsaw’s landscape, the Palace is celebrated by some, while for others it merely represents Russian hegemony.
At present the building hosts several theatres, a cinema, numerous bars, restaurants and cafes, and a tourist info office, as well as the National Museum of Technology and the Museum of Evolution Tours of the interiors are offered hourly in Polish between 10:00 and 15:00, and in English at 16:00. Book tickets online in advance, or skip the tour and head straight to the outdoor viewing terrace on the 30th floor (via elevator) for thrilling panoramic views; tickets available online.
QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 09:00 18:00. Viewing terrace open 10:00 20:00; terrace admission 25/20zł. U
The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p.58
1000 years of Jewish history in Poland is chronicled in this excellent museum where the Jewish Ghetto stood during WWII.QSee p.73.
With tons of art from the 20th century and beyond, plus great exhibits on ancient Greece and rome, this is a must!QSee p. 70.
Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of PL’s best.QSee p.75
Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, monumental buildings, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forwardlooking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital.
In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, chances are you’re staying in the City Centre and probably there right now, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.36). Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest downtown, and nowhere more conveys the modern character of the Polish capital.
Gliniana
Pawia
Dzielna
Smocza
Nowolipki
Chłodna Słupecka
Anielewicza
Pawia
Pawia
Nowolipie
Ogrodowa
Srebrna Dzielna
Grzybowska Spi
Platynowa
Nowolipki
TarczyńskaDaleka
Dantyszka Złota
Reja
1 Plac Piłsudskiego
Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, this is Warsaw’s largest square Named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Józef Piłsudski; you’ll find a statue of the Marshal guarding his naming rights with a stern gaze nearby. The space has undergone quite a few rebrandings thanks to the changing political landscape, including a stint as ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ under Nazi occupation. During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here. Considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here that in 1979, Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were added - both relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński, whose monument here gazes upon that of the other victims.
At the western end of the square you’ll find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the broken colonnades of Saxon Palace - the grand structure this square stood in front of until its destruction during WWII. Here, the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year.QF‑6, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.
Plac Piłsudskiego’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier almost serves as an entrance gate into Saski Park, aka Saxon Garden. This historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to all in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque garden with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Despite its demise during WWI, Saxon Garden still offers several historical points of interest, in addition to lots of benches, plenty of shade and a much-needed escape from the urban din of the capital. The centrepiece of the gardens is a large fountain created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi. The alleyways running out from it are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees and neoclassical sculptures. In the northwestern part of the park, you’ll find the Romanesque Water Tower from 1825 - also designed by Marconi, and modelled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli. Other curiosities include a sundial from 1863, a memorial honouring Varsovians killed during WWII, and a statue of Stefan Starzyński - the city’s mayor at the outbreak of WWII, who later to became a victim of Dachau concentration camp. It’s also worth noting the beautiful Renaissance palace on the southern side of the park, which holds ZachętaWarsaw’s premier space for contemporary art.QF‑6, Between ul. Marszałkowska and Plac Piłsudskiego, MŚwiętokrzyska.
Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district, densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars, bakeries and shops. Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, post-industrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary - 13 world cuisines at restaurant stalls in the former cellars. The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (19 different types!) for local hopheads, while other highlights include a sports bar part-owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s). The food is delicious and so is the atmosphere -- it's worth coming here for a date night, or a friend gathering or even just a simple pint after work. Plus, in the winter months they even have an ice rink -- what's not to love about this place! QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 60, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl
One of Warsaw’s newest public spaces, European Square was created by Wirtz International Landscape Architecture as part of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards for their design. This small square has a lot of features: trees, benches, fountains, reflecting pools, two large murals, an amphitheatre, a unique Art Walk gallery where changing exhibits are displayed, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says ‘Kocham Warszawę’ (I Love Warsaw). Of course there are cafes, bars and food options as well, making this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QC‑7, MRondo Daszyńskiego.
This former industrial site covering an area of 2ha near Rondo Daszyńskiego was once one of the largest enterprises in the Kingdom of Poland, with a long, complex history that dates back to the 1840s. The Norblin, Buch Brothers and T. Werner Factory (to give its full name) produced a wide range of metal, tin and silver-plated goods - sugar bowls, teapots, cutlery, vases, dishes and more - ranging from the utilitarian to true works of art. Until recently a neglected pearl of post-industrial architecture, massive investment has turned the area into a lively modern urban centre of culture, entertainment, gastronomy and commerce. Now, find over 24,000m2 of total commercial space open to the public. Visitors will find an impressive museum covering the site’s industrial history, the BioBazar eco (organic) food market and bistro, the KinoGram boutique cinema, an Event Hall with more than 600 square meters of event space, ArtBox Experience, a fitness centre,
shops, cafes and more - including a bevy of events.
To top it all off, a trendy indoor Food Town lives at the heart of the space, with 23 gastronomy concepts from around the globe, and 5 bars to add to the service! Additionally, Hala Gimlet, is an everyday live music space, featuring bands, DJs and jazz sessions. This is the ideal spot for a day-to-night date, as there is plenty going on and lots of shopping, eating and drinking to be had! But it's not just a place to go out on the town. Young families will also find a lot of options here, starting with Smart Kids Planet (p.76), an educational play center for young children to partake in the fun with highly interactive games, activities and more! . This truly is the astounding cutting edge of Warsaw’s urban culture, so check it out.QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.fabrykanorblina.pl TE6
This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. From 1941 it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto and Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to
escape. Rebuilt after the war, the entire square has been recently renovated and today features dozens of benches, neatly landscaped grassy areas and even a pond with a waterfall. Very well lit, it’s a wonderful place to relax or enjoy the many bars and cafes that surround it, day or night. Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It is here in the former heart of the Jewish Warsaw (p.72) that the Singer Jewish Culture Festival takes place each year in late August/early September. The Nożyk Synagogue - the city’s only synagogue to survive the war and still in use today - can also be found close by at ul. Twarda 6.QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska.
There is plenty of great shopping to be had in and around Warsaw, and Złote Tarasy, seated next to the central train station, is no exception with great stores like Sephora, Van Graaf and Zara.
But many people actually admire the complex for its aesthetic style and ultra modern architecture. Even if you’re not in the mood to shop, it’s a good idea to check out the space, which has a 10,000m glass dome fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and stop snow from building up. The dome itself is reminiscent of waves, water, balloons, bubbles -- basically any form without a straight edge. The 1.5 billion zł project was designed by a California-based firm and construction began in 2002. After it was completed in 2004, the design - sleek, contemporary, eye-catching - won the firm an award by a famous London-based architecture magazine. It’s worth stepping inside to see the multi-level beloved behemouth in person! QE‑8, ul. Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00 22:00; Sun 09:00 21:00.
Most people arrive to the Polish capital via Warszawa Centralna train station, which, together with the Palace of Culture (p.25), basically comprises Warsaw City Centre’s ground zero. Plac Defilad is the vast, mostly empty concrete and asphalt mess standing in and around the Palace of Culture, but particularly the east side. As the name ‘Parade Square’ hints, this mostly empty plot was created by communist-era city planners in the 1950s, along with the Palace of Culture. Measuring 24ha, it was until recently the second largest public square in the EU, though no one would have mistaken it for a proper square. For years it’s mostly been parking, but plenty of historical events have taken place here, from PRL propaganda parades, to massive rallies for Pope John Paul II, to Christmas markets, ice rinks and New Year’s Eve concerts. After a long construction period last year, the new, sleek Museum of Modern Art opened in October 2025, coinciding with the introduction of Plac Centralny (Central Sqaure) -- essentially, the central part of Plac Defilad surrounding the museum is being turned into a greener, more pedestrianfriendly space under the new moniker (though the larger area is still known as Defilad). If you’re not a fan of all this urban hubbub, you can escape directly by heading through the time portal of the nearby Photoplasticon (p.80).QF‑8, Plac Defilad, MCentrum.
9 Pasaż Wiecha and the Eastern Wall
Pasaż Wiecha runs parallel to ul. Marszałkowska in the shadow of departments stores, known as the ‘Eastern Wall.’ The area has undergone a lot of lives and style inspirations over the last century. Initially, the buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration. This led to all manner of brutalist monstrosities rising from the ruins left after WWII. One was this massive wall of buildings, which is now among the oldest department store/ retail complexes in Poland. Designed by architect Zbigniew Karpiński and completed in 1969, the buildings were hailed a work of genius, but soon fell into neglect.
Eventually new life was breathed into the complex. Now, find shining glass frontages added to the department stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end.
Although once entirely dodgy, Pasaż Wiecha - the long space behind the ‘Eastern Wall’ - is today lined with shops and restaurant gardens on both sides,
making it an interesting area to explore. It also increasingly plays host to events like food fairs. Ironically, the centrepiece of the city’s big 1960s redevelopment plan is now a focal point in the ‘Nowe Centrum Warszawy’ plan, which will see this immediate area redeveloped once again in the near future. It’s all part of a larger plan to support a lively pedestrian corridor through the city centre from here to ul. Nowy Świat (p.49) via ul. Chmielna. Start a wander east down the latter from here to see how far the city has progressed so far.QF‑7/8, MCentrum.
Warsaw’s newest public square opened in July 2022 at the intersection of Bracka, Krucza, Zgody, Szpitalna and Chmielna Streets - hence the name, ‘Five Corner Square.’ Although the new design still features a lot of concrete, 22 maple trees have been added to the space, as well as numerous benches with almost 40 sitting places. Most significantly, the entire area has been opened up and given over to pedestrians, which is a huge improvement over the urban tangle that previously prevailed here. Plac Pięciu Rogów is basically the centrepiece of redevelopment works throughout this area which are transforming ul. Chmielna into a high street for pedestrians A great area for exploration: you’ll plenty of cafes, restaurants, bars and intriguing places for relaxing and refuelling. QG‑7/8, MCentrum, www.plac5rogow.pl
A wonderful spectacle of socialist realist architecture, Constitution Square was constructed between 1950-52 to be an ‘expression of creative optimism and peaceful work within the socialist system.’ Its real purpose was to serve as a focal point for the frequent state parades, which would go from here down ul.
Marszałkowska to Plac Defilad (Parade Square) in front of The Palace of Culture and Science. The reality of this plan was short-lived, as it’s been a car park since the 1960s. Lovely, huh?
Quite an anomaly in the urban fabric of Warsaw, Constitution Square was the crowning glory of the Marszałkowska Housing District - the first housing district to be completed out of the complete devastation of WWII. It was quite an achievement and heralded as a big success at the time. In terms of sightseeing, there isn’t much aside from the austere PRL grandeur of it all. Dominated by three monumental street lamps looking like giant tridents, you’ll still see some socialist mosaics here and there, but things get even better along the tail end of ul. Marszałkowska, leading to Plac Zbawiciela, where socialist reliefs of workers line the street. QG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji, MPolitechnika.
In the aftermath of WWII, this star-shaped roundabout became dominated by PRL-era buildings from the 1950s, but still harbours a couple of gems.
The first is the conspicuous Church of the Holiest Saviour, from which the square takes its name (Saviour Square). Built in neo-Renaissance style in the 1920s, that it stands is a marvel, considering it was dynamited by the Nazis during WWII and then tagged for demolition by the communists. The other pre-war building here is the handsome Jasieńczyk-Jabłoński tenement (Mokotowska 12), erected in 1910. Upon completion, it was not only one of the most modern, but also the tallest residential building in Warsaw (38 m).
From 2012–2015, Julita Wójcik’s “Rainbow” art installation notably soared over Plac Zbawiciela. A 9m-high 26m-wide rainbow made of plastic flowers, the piece proved too controversial for PL’s anti-LGBT factions, who repeatedly lit it on fire until it was removed. Though there have been plans to replace it with a fireproof version, the current political climate doesn’t seem conducive to its return. That aside, Saviour Square today is quite the progressive meeting place for students, artists and activists who favour the hip bars here. M Politechnika.
13 Warsaw University of Technology
Known locally as Politechnika Warszawska, this is one of the largest universities of technology in Central Europe, with over 36,000 students. building is a wonder of neo-baroque architecture designed at the turn of the 19th century. Stout, sturdy and with unique rounded corners, the two-story building survived WWII bombing and was quickly retouched after the war. Its features an array of architectural embellishments: sculptures, bas-reliefs, frescoes and think the exterior is impressive, head inside to see the pentagonal cloister courtyard with four stories of arcades, staircase and beautiful stained-glass roof. QF‑10, Plac Politechniki 1, M 08:00 18:00.
14 Hala Koszyki
If you're wondering where all the students are, this might be the answer. This is one of Warsaw's handful of marvelous indoor market halls, with food, shopping, art and more! And this is definitely one to check out because it's photogenic, with a phenomenal ground-floor food hall, with everything form dim sum to gelato, burgers, fries and more! There are plenty of boutique shops and a lot of great events held here. This is urban revitalisation at its most impressive and photogenic. See more on p.
QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, M www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00
Sk y s c r a p e r s
Warsaw has plainly stated its ambition to have more skyscrapers than any other city in Europe. The city currently has 25 buildings over 100m high, with another 10 approved for construction, and enough pending approval to potentially bring the total up to 65 in the coming years. Beloved by locals and symbolic of the city’s aspiration to be the most modern capital in Europe, here are some of the most notable towers in town.
Varso: This neomodern office complex is the tallest building in the EU at 310m (though the last 80m is a spire). An observation deck at 230m is being planned for the summer of 2025. QE 8.
Palace of Culture & Science: Buy a ticket, then head up to the 30th floor of Warsaw’s oldest and second tallest skyscraper (237m) for amazing panoramic views from an actual open-air terrace More on p.25 QE 9.
Warsaw UNIT: Warsaw’s 5th tallest tower (202m) was completed in 2021. Included is the wild new adrenaline attraction Skyfall Warsaw - a vertigo-inducing glass box that dangles outside the building (available to companies and special events)QC 8.
Złota 44: Designed by Daniel Libeskind, this luxury residential tower is one of Wawa’s most beautiful and distinctive skyscrapers, and its 7th tallest (192m).QE 8.
InterContinental Hotel: At 165m, Warsaw’s InterContinental Hotel is one of the tallest 5-star hotels in the world, and features the highest swimming pool in Europe at 150m. Open to non-guests, go have a swim in the clouds.QE 8.
Centrum LIM/Warsaw Presidential Hotel: The Panorama Sky Bar on the 40th floor of this veteran skyscraper (completed 1989) offers a liquid view to the city. Although the drinks are among Wawa’s most expensive, this is one of the city’s most accessible views.QE 9.
Warsaw - THE HUB: Completed in 2020, this complex consists of two 130m buildings and an 86m building. For great views, head up to the bar on the 21st floor - The Roof (p.104).QC 8.
Atlas Tower: 119m tall and completed way back in 1999, the locals think this one looks like a porta-loo, but the 27th floor features one of the best luxury roof clubs in the world, Level 27. The building is also home to the Invisible Exhibition (p.70). QE 9.
A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. Today it stands as a stunning testament of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, and its rise from the ruins. If you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here.
In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.74), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle (p.38) in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it.
Our Old Town Walking Tour leads you around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district.
The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks - we reckon it will take at most several hours to complete. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your phone/camera, comfy shoes and off you go.
Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, with the steps of King Sigismund’s Column typically besieged by couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s political demonstrations, street performers, or the steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll.
As for the famous column, it honours the man who in 1596 moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa. 22 metres tall, it was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived and was returned to his perch in 1949.
Also note that there is a tourist info office located here at Plac Zamkowy 1/13 (open 10:00-18:00, Sunday 10:00-16:00). so you'll be able to find all the information you need before you explore further.
QF‑4, MRatusz Arsenał.
When it was rebuilt, Warsaw implemented a vision of its Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums! You may already know the famous ones (Royal Castle, Museum of Warsaw) so here we're highlighting some of the other impressive spaces:
Museum of Dollhouses: Over 150 highly detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, and old toys! the museum's two permanent exhibits both show unique handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. This is a great spot for not only children, but adults, too!Qul. Podwale 15.
Museum World of Illusion: A nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and meld your mind just a bit. Colors, lights and illusions! perfect for anyone who wants to learn the extent to which the mind can be easily tricked by the eye. Bonus: you'll go home with lots of fun photos so make sure to bring a camera. More on p.76 QRynek Starego Miasta 21
Pharmacy Museum: Travel back in time to a charmingly antiquated interwar 'apteka.' nside you'll get a healthy dose of history about medicine, poison and narcotics. Although niche, it really is a wonderful visit. Nominated for 'European Museum of the Year 2022.' Qul. Piwna 31/33.
Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre:
This small branch of the Warsaw Museum focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town - its destruction during World War II, the rebuilding efforts thereafter, and circumstances of its eventual entry on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Qul. Brzozowa 11/13.
The pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster.
Those who plonk down for admission (60zł/45zł) will have plenty to see, including the Kings’ apartments and chambers, the Houses of Parliament and the opulent Great Assembly Hall. Additional tickets are required for the Gallery of Masterpieces and the apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski - aka the ‘Tin-Roofed Palace’ (Though the palace is currently closed until further notice)
Luckily for families, children under 7 get in for free, while those 7-16 years old have to pay 1zł! Visiting time: 2hrs.QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 17:00; closed Mon. Admission 60/45zł. Kids & students with valid ID, 1zł for each exhibit; Wed free for all exhibits. U
This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg.
Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959.
Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.
The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates
The most famous of these now non-existent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower - the highest point in the defensive structures - near the corner of ul. Krzywe Koło and ul. Brzozowa.
Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses.
As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Apart from all the interesting history, there are some incredible modern experiences to be had here. QF‑4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.
The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show, and this small-butpoignant monument made its debut in 1983.
Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the sculpture commemorates the children who had to grow up fast, serving as messengers and frontline troops during the Uprising. With its oversized helmet and rifle, the bronze figure was inspired by the story of 13-year-old corporal Antek, himself killed in action near this spot on August 8, 1944. For history buffs, this is the spot to go, hands (or arms) down.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.
Crowning the set of the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548,
built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier gate.
Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when on June 30, 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished with the remains being incorporated into new apartment buildings. It was during the interwar period that restoration work began to return the Barbican to its former glory, but alas, World War II put a hold to works, with it being completely destroyed.
Along with the Old Town reconstruction, the fortified wall and Barbican were restored. Today, it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also
Continue along the Old Town defensive walls to the Barbican, and on to the Old Town Square?
Or, duck out of the medieval walls and down ul. Kilińskiego, hanging a left on ul. Długa for a short <20min/1.5km walk to the POLIN Museum (D-4, p.73) via the imposing Warsaw Uprising Monument and lovely Krasiński Palace and Gardens (E-4)?
the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and 'artists' selling their wares. Interested in more Barbican history? During the warmer months you can pop inside to see a small exhibition put together by the Museum of Warsaw. Even if that's not available to you, make sure to swing by this spot to simply marvel at the architecture and the impressiveness. Then make sure to head back into the rest of the Old Town for a great bite (p.42)QF‑3/4
Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is prewar Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated tenements - keep an eye out for the ‘House Under the Lion,’ with frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our Polish artistic crush - look up her work) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska.
Stay on target with a stroll through the Barbican towards the Old Town Square?
Or take a detour down charming pedestrian thoroughfare ul. Freta, past the Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum (p.68), en route to the New Town Square (350m away)?
Today the buildings around the Rynek host numerous cafes, restos, shops and museumsMuseum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square, Museum World of Illusion (p.76) can be found at number 21, and number 27 is home to Warsaw’s oldest, most prestigious restaurant, U Fukiera (p.94).
During the 15th century the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it features Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital. During the winter months, expect to find an excellent skating rink here (with all the magic a night sweeping around on ice can bring). QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta.
Inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed over 22 thematic rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, and other items with representations of the Polish capital. Additionally, a new exhibit Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto shines a light on the difficult history of the city's ghetto in the 1940s, told by people who experienced it. Finally, there’s a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Well worth a visit! Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28 42, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00 17:00; Thu 9:00 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 35/25zł; permanent exhibit only 25/18zł; temp. exhibit only 20/15zł; Thu free. U6
Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but, as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.
U Fukiera: Adhering to tradition with extravagant flair, this famous restaurant on the Old Town Square offers an exceptional dining experience.Qp.94.
Gospoda pod Zygmuntem:This veteran Polish restaurant is as traditional as it gets, with potato pancakes, pierogi, kotlet, and so, so much more. Make sure to stop here for the authentic stuff.Qp.88.
Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and a lovely space make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. Plus, there's outdoor seating! Qp.87
U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Market Square with traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘Duck a la Barssa’ Qp.91.
Bar and Books: Open after 17:00, this sophisticated, dimly-lit cocktail and whiskey bar occasionally hosts live music on weekends.Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20.
Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, it turns out). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG‑4, ul. Brzozowa.
Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the 18th century (when it was built) were calculated
based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG‑4, ul. Kanonia.
Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s 1st president) and various Mazovian knights can be seen in the crypt (open Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 15:00-17:00, closed during mass; admission 5/3zł). As with most major landmarks, it was left in a heap of ruins during the Warsaw Uprising, before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled demolition vehicle used by the German army.QF/G‑4, ul. Świętojańska 8, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 07:00 20:00; Sun 08:00 22:00.
Circling back to Plac Zamkowy you can either carry on down the Royal Route (turn the page), or circle round the back of the Royal Castle for a walk through the free gardens and down along the riverbank towards Powiśle (p.50).
Each winter, Krakowskie Przedmiejsce is lined in twinkly holiday lights.
Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.38) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle (p.56), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.58) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital.
In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.36) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat - to the ironic/ iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. Once you've exhausted these options, continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or veer off to the center of the city and see the Palace of Culture or grab a good bite to eat.
We'll start at the iconic column in front of the Royal Castle, which effectively begins the transition between Old Town and Royal Route. Built in honour of the man who moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa - this 22m column was erected back in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle and has become a kind of meeting point for friends, tourists and everyone in between! QF‑4, Pl. Zamkowy
2 St. Anne’s Church & Tower
St. Anne’s survived the war with a few scratches and a bombed-out roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the careless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which threatened to collapse; it took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Interestingly, St. Anne’s also found disaster in the 17th century, when it survived the Swedish Deluge only to be the victim of arson two years later. The classical façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classical and rococo details. The real reason to visit, however, are the splendid views from the tower - worth the 147-step climb (church and tower open 10:00-18:00 weekdays and 11:00-18:00 Saturdays) 10/7zł. Call +48 22 374 94 84).QG‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz
Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91, www.swanna.waw.pl.
Open 10:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00.
3 Adam Mickiewicz Monument
Patriot and poet Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) is Poland’s greatest literary hero. Known as the ‘Father of Polish Romanticism,’ his epic poems and dramas served as inspiration for insurrections against the imperial powers that had partitioned Poland out of existence in the late 18th century.
Born to an upper class Polish family in what is today Belarus, Mickiewicz attended university in Vilnius, where he began publishing his poems and became involved in political activities against imperial Russia, which now occupied the former territory of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. These activities saw him exiled to Russia in 1824, but Mickiewicz was
able to leverage connections he made in the salons of Moscow and St. Petersburg to escape to the west in 1830, eventually settling in Paris. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea in 1855. His body today lies with those of the Polish kings in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral. To learn more, visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4).
This monument was first unveiled in 1898 on the 100th anniversary of Mickiewicz’s birth. Sculpted by Cyprian Godebski, the monument was destroyed by the Nazis, however, after WWII, Polish soldiers recovered Mickiewicz’s head and other demolished parts in Hamburg. Sculptor Jan Szczepkowski was able to produce a copy of the original sculpture, which was unveiled, along with its restored surroundings, in 1950.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21 23, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.
Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets - the price tag of the rents matches the prestige! The street stretches from the Royal Castle in the Old Town (p.36) until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. It is along the length of this street, and beyond, that you will easily find our list of things to see along the way - it’s almost impossible to get lost! As you walk along the route, be sure to stop at any of the 15 Chopin Benches. Designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, they feature a button, when pressed, unleash a 30 second torrent of Chopin. Each bench contains descriptions in EN/PL to the site’s relevance to the composer. This is a delightful walk down one of the prettiest parts of the city. QG‑4, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.
Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.
Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791 Signed on these very grounds, it was the
2nd such document in the world, after the US Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon.
After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. At the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918, the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out. QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.
Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Piłsudskiego (p.28)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre and on a path to Hala Gwardii (E-6) and Hala Mirowska (D-6) - two massive indoor markets 15-20mins on foot from where you’re standing.
Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at number 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name a few. In 1993 it was restored to its pre-war glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast.
Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski. The first hotel to reopen after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques - the most exclusive shopping experience in the country.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 13.
The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites connected with his life since 2019. Made of cast iron and polished black granite, these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, feature a button which when pressed unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. However, that’s not all. These benches see Chopin go techno: each one comes inscribed with a QR code – scan it and download the Chopin App to access audioguides, Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs. This is, at the very least, a fun little trick to show your friends as you sit down for a much-needed rest while exploring the Old Town and Royal Route!QG‑6, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, www.biuro.chopin2010.pl
An awarded restaurant with traditionally handcrafted pierogi
Join us at our restaurant along the Royal Route. We combine modern design with traditional recipes in a historic setting. Try our handcrafted pierogies and more. Discover flavor and history in one place!
Syrena Irena: Dive into modern Polish food done well. Order a variety of pierogi and customize your order with exciting toppings in this chic spot. Qp.91
Specjały Regionalne: Experience some of the best Polish food the capital has to offer, from juicy duck leg to fluffy dumplings and Polish charcuterie boards, all in a space filled with traditional Polish folk art. This is a must!Qp.91.
Ministerstwo Śledzia i Wódki: Inspired by the bygone communist era, this bar/restaurant offers old school Polish staples and iced vodkaQp.88
Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Immense portions of traditional Polish fare and charming service. What's not to like?.Qp.87.
Carry on further and you’re in Warsaw Universityland, the main campus of which lies beyond the grand gateway of number 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw Uni was established here in 1816. The university had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the uni continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university
stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning travel writer Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and the poet Julian Tuwim.QG‑6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl
No self-respecting Chopin fan (is that you?) can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Smuggled out of Paris in a jar of booze by his sister (true story), Chopin’s heart was brought to the church in accordance with his final wishes in 1882 and is sealed in an urn behind a tablet bearing his likeness, specially carved by Leonardo Marconi.
Although Chopin’s ticker serves as the church’s key draw there are several other notable features and funereal remains to tempt you inside this astonishing Baroque creation. These include another urn with the remains of Nobel Prize-winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski. The organ, built in Salzburg in 1925, is also the largest in Warsaw.
Throughout a history that dates back to the 15th century, Holy Cross Church has played a role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. Masses start at 6:00 a.m. and run daily at designated times. Parish hours are below.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz. pl. Open Tues, Wed 10:00 12:00, 16:00 18:00; Thu, Fri 10:00 12:00.
The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no
turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.
The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery.
QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.
The name of this street means “New World” and it is an apt description; just south of ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, Nowy Świat has a similar look to the Old Town but instead of museums and history, you’ll find food, beer, live music and a street constantly bursting at the seams with life. Like much of the Old Town, Nowy Swiat was also razed during WWII, but was rebuilt almost immediately following in a neoclassical style, rather than its pre-war Art Nouveau style. Legend (and history) goes that this street was rebuilt based partly on paintings of its pre-war ancestor. Make sure to stop by Karmello for some chocolate nosh and coffee.
If it’s nightlife you’re after, there’s plenty of bars: Dom Whisky Cocktail Bar (open until 4 a.m. all week) will serve all the bright colored drinks you want; across the street, Kufle i Kapsle has a craft beer menu that will make even the snobbiest beer snob happy. We could go on, but there is a lot in the way of eating and drinking and fun. Finish your journey by taking in the towering palm tree 12 at the intersection between Nowy Świat and Al. Jerozolimskie, an art installation that’s a beloved little touch of the tropics in the middle of town. QH‑8.
Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore.
Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the centre forced Warsaw to reconsider its potential. Now, Powiśle has become a hotspot for everything cool, young and happening in Warsaw, so much so that the city decided to recently open a gorgeous pedestrian bridge tying the Praga (p.53) area east of the river to Powiśle (you can access it via Ul. Karowa in Powiśle or Ul. Okrzei in Praga.) The history of Powiśle's growth is interesting: Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a draw since 2002, and the adjacent opening of the Copernicus Science Centre (p.52) in 2009 invited further cultural investments. Then the Metro (2015) helped make it into a popular place for public recreation. The redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle (p.52) power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today. Still, Powiśle maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic rotund Warszawa Powiśle bar I-7). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood!
Warsaw’s Chopin Museum is touted as one of the most high-tech in Europe. Three floors of interactive exhibits cover the composer’s life in every aspect, including a recreation of his Paris drawing room, the last letter he wrote to his family, his death mask, and even an intriguing section on his social circle. In addition, there are dozens of touchscreens, audio-visuals, and musical games, making the museum a highly interactive experience that will keep visitors of all ages engaged. Thirty-minute live concerts take place every Sat and Sun at 12:00, 15:00 and 17:00 (available to all museum visitors). Visitor numbers are restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets online in advance. Located in the famous Ostrogski Palace, the building’s catacombs are said to be home to the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the Devil before being transformed. Visiting time: 1hr. Q H‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, M Nowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc.pl Open 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/20zł.
Warsaw’s ‘Syrenka’ - the iconic freshwater warrior mermaid - has been representing the Polish capital since time immemorial. The monument here is the second-most famous statue of the city’s symbol (the first being on the Old Town Square, (p.40), though this one actually overlooks the river the mythical icon is alleged to have dwelled in.
At 2.75 metres tall, the the bronze monument was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled in June 1939, just months before the outbreak of WWII; remarkably it stood unscathed in this exact spot throughout the entire war while the rest of Warsaw's left bank was devastated.r. Q I‑6, Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały Siedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), M Centrum Nauki Kopernik.
Warsaw has modernised and improved its left bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge and leading north to the Old Town have seen the most development and are now a popular thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling and skating, as well as bars, cafes and restaurants - particularly in the warmer months - plus parks and leisure spaces.
Ordynacka
However, even in the chillier months, this spot is well worth a visit for the great views and strolling opportunities (plus, a great path to follow from beautiful Powiśle to the bustling old town)
It’s fair to say that Warsaw’s river boulevards are now among the best in Europe so don’t miss having a stroll along the water while in the city.QI‑6, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.
When it’s time for a rest or a feed, there are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river. Also, Elektrownia Powiśle has an entire food hall inside, so your options are manifold. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:
Champs Sports Bar: If you're in the mood for some fun, casual eats, then Champs is the right spot. With Tex-Mex offerings and plenty of tvs to watch the match, this is the ultimate sports and entertainment bar. Qp. 101.
LAS: Lush but refined, this ‘forest’ uses local, seasonal ingredients to create contemporary incarnations of Polish classics, plus unusual cocktails.QI-7, ul. Solec 44.
Tres Toros: Affectionately known as 'Little Spain', Tres Toros brings you into the vibrant world of classic Iberian cuisine, its flavours and colours. Located in Elektrownia (H-6).Qul. Dobra 42.
Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and engine buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness. Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping, and is a culinary hotspot with 41 restaurants bars and cafes across the complex (get the specifics on their Food Hall on p.96). Additionally, there is a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering over 350 cosmetic treatments from 7 beauty concepts.
Events are frequently hosted in the courtyards between the buildings, including a regular farmer’s market, yoga lessons and film screenings, and there’s also a multimedia fountain. Whatever your proclivity, there are plenty of reasons to check out one of Warsaw’s most exciting and successful urban renewal projects. Note that different areas of the space have different opening times.QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 11:00 21:00. Food Hall open 12:00 23:00, Fri 12:00 24:00, Sat 11:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 22:00. TU6K
An example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits and the all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. Note: The center is open but the planetarium is closed for renovation until the spring so make sure to plan ahead!. Visiting time: 3-4hrs.QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:00 18:00; Fri 09:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 19:00. Closed 1st Mon of every month. Check times on website www.kopernik. org.pl/en/planetarium. Admission 46/32zł; holidays & weekends 48/34zł; planetarium 32/23zł. U
6 Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge)
This long-awaited pedestrian footbridge opened in late March, connecting Praga on the east side of the river with Powiśle on the west. You can access it near Karowa Street in Powiśle (around Mariensztat below). The gorgeous new bridge is the longest pedestrian bridge in Poland, and it's is meant for walkers and cyclers alike. In the warmer months, you'll likely find plenty of people meandering, some live music, some people selling ice cream and cotton candy. In the chillier months, make sure to bundle warmly as you cross the 502-metre structure, and enjoy some design features like viewing platforms and rest areas. The Polish name, Kładka na Wiśle, means "Footbridge on the Vistula River". QH‑5, Karowa 6.
7 Mariensztat
Cut off from the rest of the Old Town, the northernmost part of Powiśle has its origins in the 18th century when a nobleman received the land as part of a dowry. The area was built in 1762 and named after his wife, with the latter part of the name 'stadt' (changed to 'sztat' after World War II) being added to appease the Saxon king of Poland at the time, King Augustus III. Completely destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising, it was rebuilt after the war using a totally different street plan; the architectural design aimed to evoke a look mixed between 18th century buildings in the Praga district while also incorporating a socialist realist element. the picturesque neighbourhood is full of small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy retreat from the crowds just a short distance away from the heart of the Old Town.
In previous centuries, Mariensztat was notorious for its bordellos and bare-knuckle boxing matches, and its main square was once the home of a bustling market - a role today commemorated by a statue of a woman with a chicken and basket of goods, found on ul. Sowa 4. Today, though it looks a little sleepy, Mariensztat ranks as one of Warsaw's most engaging district.QG‑4/5, ul. Mariensztat.
From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to Praga (p.60) or the City Centre (p.26) through a lovely (albeit a little long) walk along the river toward the south. Alternatively, head north along the river to return to the Old Town (p.36) or check out New Town’s Multimedia Fountain (F-3), which is a popular attraction for young families; both are about 2km/20mins on foot.
This glorious 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored year-round by locals and visitors alike. Although it seems as if half of Warsaw spends its fall Sundays here, the park is so vast that it never feels crowded and offers an enchanting opportunity to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past. Don’t mistake Łazienki for a simple city park; it is also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture. Don’t miss it.
The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece, the Palace on the Island
The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence. It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics and cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. Note that in the winter, some of these sites shut down, including the White Pavilion and the Botanical Garden after October, though the garden reopens at the end of March.
While the park is free, the indoor exhibits require a ticket
Ticket 1: Includes the Palace on the Isle, the Old Orangery, and Myslewski Palace, 50/25zł.
Ticket 2: The same as Ticket 1, plus the Cantonal Barracks and the Kubicki Stables, 60/30zł.
Ticket 3: The same as Ticket 2, plus a temporary exhibit in the Royal Baths, 80/40zł.
Kids under 7 & students under 26 1zł for all three tickets. Buy tickets from cash desks or machines at the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship. All exhibits have the same hours.Q H‑12, M Politechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www. lazienki krolewskie.pl. Park open daily 06:00 21:00. Indoor attractions open, Tues & Wed 9:00 16:00; Thurs, Fri, Sat 10:00 18:00; Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon and holidays.
The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie.QH‑12, ul. Belwederska 56.
Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. QH‑12.
Łazienki’s iconic Chopin monument.
Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 (from Old Town/Nowy Świat) and 180 (from Al. Jerozolimskie, bus stop ‘PKP Powiązki’); get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl
A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info points in the park. Additionally, it's one of the top sights to see in the park. Originally erected in 1785-88 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in Europe.
Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, the ground floor is rather modest with simple benches on risers, while the upper level features nine boxes with eight female figures gripping candleholders in between. Interestingly, the space above the boxes has been painted to create the illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18thcentury court audience.
The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts. The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery. From the beginning of his reign, Stanisław August collected hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous sculptures from antiquity. 120 of these casts are displayed. Visiting time: 30mins.QI‑11.
The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre and therefore, a true must-visit when you're going to the park. Built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August.
Located on an island in the middle of a narrow lake, and connected by colonnaded bridges on each side, the façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors. Today, almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms
The main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, is decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. In 1793, King August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection.
Today, 140 of these canvases are on display as the Royal Picture Gallery, and arranged as they would have been in the years 1793-1795. This is a great spot to beat the chill of Poland in the winter, all while taking in some gilded halls and pretty art. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QI‑11.
Built in the 1770s and 80s, this elegant semi-circular palace was originally conceived as King Stanisław August's primary residence, though it gradually shifted to more diplomatic functions, hosting official state soirees and accommodating foreign ministers.
Designed in Early Classicist style, the unique recessed entrance is decorated with mythological sculptures. After a thorough renovation, the building again appears very much as it would have in the late 18th century, and a walk through the interiors - replete with original murals, furniture and art - is worth the short amount of time it takes to see them. Visiting time: 30mins.QJ‑11.
Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies.
If the trophies are too much, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks - built in 1826–1828 and full of hunting arms and taxidermied animals - and head
straight to the Kubicki Stables, built 1825–1826 and home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories, which are sure to delight the horse lovers among your group.
The Stables also host the Royal Weaving Workshopfeaturing 19th-century Jacquard looms, ornamental fabrics, old fabric patterns and more. Visiting time: 1hrQJ‑12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9. Admission 30/15zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free.
In the eastern section of Łazienki near the Palace on the Island stands a large, classical building constructed in a horseshoe plan. A smaller building which served as a kitchen for the Palace on the Island stood here in the 17th century. Seems it wasn't large enough to serve King Stanisław August's needs, so he expanded it into something called the 'Great Annex' in 1778, replete with apartments.
Eventually it morphed into the Infantry Officer Cadets School in 1822, and it was from here that second lieutenant Piotr Wysocki led an uprising, aided by the young men of the school, which escalated into the nationwide November Uprising of 1830-31. Today the building houses a tourist info centre and ticket office for all of the park's attractions, as well as some small temporary exhibits. Visiting time: 20mins. Visiting time: 30mins.QJ‑11.
Łazienki has several cafes and restaurants, though most of them are very pricey. Head out of the main gates to Plac Unii Lubelskiej (H-12) for more casual options.
Belvedere: Located in the park’s New Orangery, this is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious restaurants and worth the money, but not for families after a day in the park.QI 12.
Być Może: This hip cafe/bistro bakes its own bread, offers all-day breakfast and daily lunch specials, and is perfect whether you’re craving coffee or wine. QH 12, ul. Bagatela 14.
DZiK (Dom Zabawy i Kultury): This old residence offers European cuisine and hosts a wide range of evening events, getting wild on weekends.QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 44 A.
Viet's Baguette: This deli offers 19 varieties of banh mi, known as a 'Vietnamese hoagie.' A great place to stop in before you head to the park. QG/H 12, ul. Puławska 7/9.
Klonn: Centrally located for perfect post-park bites, this stylish parkside resto is worth it for modern cuisine and excellent wine. QH-11, ul. Jazdów 1B.
The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre.
Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.
10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25-35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl
Wilanów Park & Gardens
The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several arctefats, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. The park opens daily at 9:00 until 16:00; March 3 it closes at 18:00; from March 17 on it closes at 19:00.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www. wilanow palac.pl. Park Admission 10/5zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).
Wilanów Palace Museum
The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of
the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century. Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about temporary exhibits and tickets. A ticket also gets you into the park. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow palac.pl/. Open 10:00–16:00; closed Tue. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission (includes park admission) 35/28zł, kids 7 16 1zł, kids under 7 free; Thu free. U
An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased, and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.QO‑2, Wilanów Park.
A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome.
In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower. Q O‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00 17:00; Fri, Sat 08:00 12:00; Sun 14:00 18:00.
There’s also a natural lake found behind the Palace. Though the lake is still open, the chance to take a boat on the water is not (it's a seasonal activity that begins again in May). However, this is still well-worth a trip for the gorgeous scenery and photo opportunities. A trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to the island at the centre of the lake reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and gave his life at Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809.QP‑3, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. Hours same as gardens.
‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s east riverside district
Once disregarded due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth visiting – especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and see more of the city’s artsy side. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hangouts, you can easily spend a day checking out the vibes of this alternative district across from the Old Town.
The easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to ‘Dworzec Wileński’ (eastbound to ‘Trocka’), and you’ll be in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river to the ‘Park Praski’ stop. If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the ‘Stare Miasto’ stop, taking trams 4, 13, 20, 23 and 26 to ‘Park Praski.’
Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, bazaars and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two pre-war Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings, and there’s even an observation terrace. This is not one of the most well-known museums in Warsaw, but is certainly one of the most interesting. Well worth a visit.
Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 09:00 17:00; Thu 11:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, permanent exhibit only 15/10zł, temporary exhibits 10/8zł; Thu free. U
2 ul. Ząbkowska
Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fire in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today many of the buildings have been restored and filled with lively galleries and bars. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art near ul. Targowa. Don't forget to take photos!QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński.
Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Centrum Praskie Koneser, along ul. Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are some of the best hangouts in Praga:
3/4 Koneser Bar: Head straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cocktails, and enjoy beautiful views.Qp.100
Setki Powodów: There are 100 reasons why you should swing by, but one of the main ones is its tantalising food menu (international cuisine) and a kicking live music roster!Qp.90
Figa z Makiem: This delightful wine and cheese bar offers a bevy of delicious snacks you can enjoy with a glass of wine that complements it all! Want a great gift? Their boxes of wine and cheese are perfect Qp.102.
Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years and becoming Centrum Praskie Koneser. Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the complex includes the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art, art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops! In the winter there are tons of winter attractions and a gorgeous skating rink! So make sure to check their website. QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu TUE6
Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit. This is a must for anyone interested in the history of Poland's national drink (and for anyone who wants to try a sip). Entries are timed so book in advance Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK‑2, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki. pl. Open 12:00 20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 21:00; closed Mon. 70zł. 6
Praga is known for many things but locals know that one of its best attributes is its thrifting culture. The neighborhood is a hotbed of thrift stores, charity shops, and second-hand stores. Here’s our suggested starting route. Get off at the Kijowska tram stop, begin on the south end of Ul. Targowa and work your way north!
Jeila Ciucholand: With two stories and tons of men’s and women’s clothing, this is the perfect starting point. Find staple shirts, skirts, etc for around 10-20 Zł. Plus, some cool home items upstairs!QK-4, ul. Targowa 20B.
Nash Outlet: You know those stories where people find a designer piece in a thrift store and they just can't believe their luck? This is the place for that. This tiny store is packed and there are some real gems if you’re patient enough to lookQJ-4, Targowa 35
Kopalnia: There’s more to visit on Targowa, but let’s jump off for a bit and go to Kopalnia - this store is clothing, but also furniture, books, art, ceramics and so much more. It’s a little more expensive but so well-curated and the items are so nice that a visit is a must (say hi to the owner’s pet turtle while you’re there!).QK-2, ul. Białostocka 9.
5 Neon Museum
Yet another old industrial space-turned-cultural-hub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum. The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places because of the beauty of these historic signs. Not only that, but you get to see Warsaw history through a new, bright lens . Visiting time: 30mins.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum. org. Open 12:00 18:00; Sat,Sun 11:00 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 18/15zł, kids under 6 admission free. U6
6 Agnieszka Osiecka Monument
Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which were turned into pop hits. She’s also known for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties; her first husband,, Wojciech Frykowski died alongside Sharon Tate as one of those slain by Charles Manson’s family of weirdos. The
statue is located in Praga Południe aka Saska Kępa, and you’ll often find people lying gifts, flowers and candles at her monument. To round out your visit check out Osiecka’s favourite café, Maska around the corner.QL‑7, ul. Francuska (corner of ul. Obrońców).
MStadion Narodowy.
One of the most desirable districts of Warsaw; with property prices staunchly high, the neighbourhood is home to the nouveau riche, the intelligentsia and much of the capital’s art community. Now in the shadow of the National Stadium, the sporting complex plays a major role in bringing visitors to the focal point of the area: ul. Francuska, which hosts trendy bars, cafes, restaurants and mix of boutique and old-school shops - Saska Kępa is as close as Warsaw gets to the ‘Little Village’ areas of London or Paris or Greenwich Village in NYC. As such, it’s a great place to wander around, people watch, take in cafe culture on Francuska, or marvel at the architecture, including majestic 19th century manor houses, superb examples of 1920s and ‘30s modernism, and moreQL‑6/7/8, ul. Francuska, MDworzec Wileński.
Skaryszewski Park is one of the most beautiful in Warsaw - you’ll find a pleasant 55 hectare site filled with wide alleys originally designed for horse-drawn carriages, man-made hills, waterfalls, lakes and landscaped flowerbeds. It’s perfectly acceptable to sprawl out on the grass wherever you like here and have a picnic in the sun. Or, in the winter months, stroll with a coffee or hot chocolate in hand and watch the birds at the pond. This place is always full of activity and relaxation -- the perfect park for new visitors to Warsaw!QL‑5/6, Al. Zieleniecka, MStadion Narodowy.
Opened January, 2012, PGE Narodowy can hold 58,000 fans. The construction was built using hundreds of 45m pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25m of war rubble the stadium sits atop Priced at 1.2 billion PLN, history buffs will note the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s heritage – it was here that Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium) stood, built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. Today, this is an exceptional place to watch football or megaconcerts. All tour info on their website. Most tours range 25-40złQK‑6, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 95 95, www. pgenarodowy.pl
Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history.
Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Kraków’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters. When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.66.
Located in a beautifully-restored palace, this museum uses incredible interactive multimedia displays to illustrate the life of Poland’s most famous composer, without any details missing! QSee p.50
A fantastically unique museum that has recreated the difficulty and absurdity of everyday life during the years of Poland's communist rule.QSee p.69.
A spectacle of light, color, and sound, this museum is a must-visit that uses modern technology to take visitors on a journey that awakens the senses. QSee p.69.
What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and large-scale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon . Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions.
The history of Warsaw is fantastically told in this revamped museum based in eleven historic tenement houses. An Old Town must-see for everyone.QSee p.41
One thousand years of Polish Jewish history is chronicled in this incredibly impressive, popular museum. One of the top spots in the city.QSee p.73.
Poland's first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500year history of Poland's cherished national drink. Independently founded by the owners of beloved restaurant, Elixir by Dom Wódki.QSee p.71.
It’s not uncommon for some temporary exhibits to be major events, even overshadowing the permanent collections of local museums. Of the literal hundreds of art events across Warsaw, here are a few picks for the coming months. For more, as well as other events in the capital, head to our website.
The highly popular melt museum has introduced a new permanent exhibit that highlights the connection between art and technology, specifically AI. The creators of the exhibition call it a “technoutopia meets cyberpunk vision of the future.” The exhibit, Artificial Dreams takes visitors to unknown realms of the relationship between humans and artificial intelligence through an interactive, highly immersive experience that blends art, light, color, technology and sound to awaken your senses. You’ll see gorgeous projections, stunning (and sometimes mind-bending) lighting effects, interactive installations and much more. Make sure to book your tickets in advance online because this one sells out fast! QG‑7, melt museum, Plac Powstańców 2A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, 39 59zł, www.meltmuseum.com/en/ exhibitions/
Using Chopin’s own letters to family and friends, this exhibition gives a window into the composers closest surroundings in the mid-19th century, a time rife with political revolutions. Exhibitions change regularly throughout the year to showcase different aspects and times of the artist’s life. This exhibition in particular centers on Chopin’s travels to Majorca with George Sand where they spent three months before returning to France.QH‑7, Fryderyk Chopin Museum, ul. Okólnik 1, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, Admission 30/20zł, www.muzeum.nifc.pl/.
07.03 - 15.09 » 1945. Not the End, Not the Beginning
On the 80th anniversary of World War II, the POLIN Museum is looking at what happened after the war -- how did families devestated by horror and
destruction try to rebuild? Deprived of nearly everything, they faced a dramatic choice: to stay or to leave. This exhibit will trace the dilemmas and life paths of Polish Jews through the lives of select people via their personal biographies. The exhibition will also examine the fate of those who chose to leave Poland, as many did after the war. This is an exhibit unlike one you've seen before. A must. QD‑4, POLIN Museum, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, permanent and temporary exhibition with audio guide 45/35zł, Thursday admission free, www.polin.pl/en/event/1945 not end not beginning. Closed Tue.
17.04 - 31.12 » Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto
A new poignant and important section of the Museum of Warsaw’s main exhibit, Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto, opened last year and looks at Warsaw through the period of German occupation in the 1940s. This exhibit presents viewers with daily life in the ghetto from various perspectives including soldiers and resistance members, women and men, amateurs and professionals.Qwww. muzeumwarszawy.pl/en/wydarzenia/testimonies from the warsaw ghetto/.
01.07 - 31.12 » Kleks. Magic of the Cinema
Get an in-depth, inside look at the secrets behind film production with this exhibit at the Koneser center. Learn about Mr. Kleks’ Academy, directed by Maciej Kawulsk with original costumes, authentic set design and more, all on nearly 1,000 m2 of interactive space. Here you can learn about the secrets of special effects and see how screenwriters and directors’ work looks like from the other side of the lens. For two hours, this tour of film production is enlightening for everyone - from children as young as 5 to adults, all who get to follow a guide! At the very end of the tour, you will meet the animatronic Professor Kleks and take part in a concept art workshop.
QK‑2, Centrum Praskie Koneser, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, 75/69zł, www.kleksmagiakina.pl/ warszawa/home waw.
07.02 - 11.05 » Would You Lay Your Eggs Here?
Located in the new Museum of Modern Art in the city center, the exhibit “Would You Lay Your Eggs Here? Haunted Landscapes of an Urban Wetland” brings together pieces from artists who explore the point between city and wetland. In the museum’s words: “a place where nature and urban infrastructure intertwine to create tension, haunted visitations and interdependencies.”
Instead of traditional artifacts, the exhibition includes “object-stories” that evoke human, animal and plant life from Wawer Bend, a natural wetlife area near Warsaw. There will be a textile installation, videos and sculptures on display at the exhibition. The whole thing will be free and held on the ground floor of the new museum. Fascinating for anyone into art and nature - and where they meet.QMuseum of Modern Art in Warsaw, 103 Marszałkowska, MCentrum, free, www.artmuseum.pl/en/exhibitions/would you lay your eggs here.
Teatr Sabat
The only variety theater in Poland was created on the model of Warsaw musical theaters with cabaret, musicals, and more. Incredibly talented performances from singers, Polish actors and ballet companies all take center stage here. Plus, you have elegant tables and chances to grab a drink while you watch the show. All created by Małgorzata Potocka, a successful dancer, choreographer and director who has specialized in promoting Polish culture around the world. This is the space to be for anyone who loves the stage Qul. Foksal 16,, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. +48 (22) 826 23 55, www.teatr sabat. pl/en/contact. Open Tue, Wed 10:00 16:00; Thu, Fri 12:00 20:00; Sat 13:00 20:00; closed Mon, Sun.
Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.66
The Asia and Pacific Museum was founded in 1973. It was the first museum in Poland entirely dedicated to collecting art from outside Europe. The museum currently counts nearly 22,000 pieces from almost every country in Asia and Oceania. The collection includes, among other things, amazing weapons, rich fabrics, countless theatre puppets and masks, musical instruments, sculptures and paintings by contemporary artists. The museum also collects documents, photographs, films and recordings of ethnic music. The Asian library operating within the Museum has more than 14,000 volumes (open by prior arrangement).
Visiting time: 1hr.Q J‑7, ul. Solec 24, M Centrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 621 94 70, www. muzeumazji.pl . Open 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/12zł. Thu free. English group tours cost 100zł (plus price of individual ticket). U
Born in Warsaw in 1867, local lass Maria Skłodowska would become better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. Located in the renovated building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the two-time Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, whose many accomplishments include the discovery of the chemical element polonium (named after the country of her birth).
Comprising five rooms, visitors will learn about her family and early life, see a recreation of her Parisian laboratory, plus many personal effects, including her private letters and scientific instruments. Visiting time: 1hr.QF‑3, ul. Freta 16, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc.waw.pl. Open 12:00 18:00; Sun, Sat 11:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 11/6zł, Tue free. U
Melt offers a fully sensory experience involving lights, color, interactive exhibits, robot dogs, and so so so much more! The museum takes an audiovisual approach to creativity, using a blend of art and ultra-modern technology to offer vibrant imagery and sounds that are meant to awaken all of your senses. The museum hosts popular temporary exhibitions and asks that you book your tickets in advance online (it’s a very popular experience). Once you do, you’ll step inside a mind-bending world of light, color, touch and sound that really highlights what technology can do and how it can affect our perception of our world. Bring your phone because the photos you’ll take will be some of your best! Prices depend on the day of the week, so check out the website for details, but most prices range from 39zł to 56zł. Visiting time: 45-60mins. QG‑7, Plac Powstańców 2A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, www.meltmuseum.com. Open 12:00 20:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00.
If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL (Polish People’s Republic) vibes at this private museum. Showing what everyday life was like for locals during the years of Poland’s communist rule, the nostalgic exhibits include a recreation of a typical PRL-era apartment, plus plenty of photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Bittersweet for older Poles and eye-opening for foreigners, this is really like stepping back in time for an interesting hour. Visiting time: 1hr.QG‑10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 12:00 20:00. Admission 28/18zł. Audioguides 10zł, free on Thu in EN, FR, IT & ESP.
The newest location for this museum is a must-see, as it offers a host of new, exciting exhibitions, starting with a dozen large-scale works by women. Taking up four storeys and 20,000 m2, the museum was designed by the New York City-based architecture studio Thomas Phifer and features exhibition spaces, educational areas for lectures and workshops, conservation and restoration workshops, a cinema, an auditorium, a café, and a museum shop. The Plac Defilad spot is now the primary home to the museum, which has had previous locations on the Vistula and on Pańska 3.QF 7/8, ul. Marszałkowska 103, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10 www. artmuseum.pl/en. Open 12:00 20:00; Closed Mon.
National Ethnographic Museum
Tragically overlooked by most visitors to Warsaw, this joy of a museum showcases all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage - colourful folk costumes, customs and traditions, tools and instruments, outsider art, handicrafts and more - all of it beautifully presented in a superb historical building. Interestingly, there’s also a ‘Korean Gallery’ with a traditional Korean ‘hanok’.
One of the city’s most active cultural institutions, they host many events and worskhops, and you can expect multiple temporary exhibits at a time, Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑6, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Thu 11:00 17:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 18:00; closed Mon. Tickets 19/10zł, Thu free (Including the Museum for Children).
U
National Museum of Warsaw
Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s most priceless works, including 15th century Dutch masters and Botticelli, plus Polish masters like Chełmoński, Matejko and Wyspiański.
There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras
Gallery - the latter of which holds a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley. And the Polish masters section shouldn't be missed, nor should the stellar temporary exhibits! This is one to make a day out of.Visiting time: 3hrs.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 10:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26; 1zł; Tue free. U
Teatr Sabat
Move aside, New York and Las Vegas! Warsaw has a venue that rivals those in the cities most famous for their theater! Teatr Sabat, the only variety theater in Poland was created on the model of Warsaw musical theaters with cabaret, musicals, and more. Incredibly talented performances from singers, Polish actors and ballet companies all take center stage here. Plus, the classic auditorium concept (a la movie theaters) is gone here -- instead you have elegant tables and chances to grab a drink while you watch the show. All created by Małgorzata Potocka, a successful dancer, choreographer and director who has specialized in promoting Polish culture around the world -- this is the space to be for anyone who loves the stage!Qul. Foksal 16,, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. +48 (22) 826 23 55, www.teatr sabat.pl/en/contact.
Open Tue, Wed 10:00 16:00; Thu, Fri 12:00 20:00; Sat 13:00 20:00; closed Mon, Sun.
A unique experience where seeing impaired guides lead you into their sightless world. On the tour you’ll understand the challenges blind people face daily as you try to write with a Braille typewriter, use kitchen gadgets designed for the sightless, and solve simple puzzles while blindfolded. Next, enter a series of pitch-black rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar (bring some cash). Truly a fascinating experience. To visit, book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna.pl with ‘TOUR IN ENGLISH’ as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr.
QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Atlas Tower), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.niewidzialna.pl.
Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 40/35zł; Sat, Sun 45/40zł. N
Completed in a Baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII and torn down by communist authorities, who built a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw the castle rebuilt to its original design. Today several large exhibition halls showcase a rotating collection of the very best contemporary art. Visiting time: 2hrs.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.u jazdowski.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Thu 11:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/15zł to all exhibits. Just 1 exhibit 15/10zł; project room 10zł; students up to 26, 1zł; Thu free. U
Poland’s first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500-year history of Poland’s cherished national drink. With the world’s largest collection of over 10,000 exhibits, visitors delve into vodka’s origins, production processes, design, and even the traditional etiquette in which vodka is served and consumed. Independently founded by the passionate owners of the renowned restaurant Elixir by Dom Wódki (p.92), the museum seeks to shift the perception of Polish vodka from mere party indulgence to a finely-sipped and respected spirit. Showcasing intriguing artifacts like a Napoleonic soldier’s vodka-filled canteen and 1920s/30s bottles that were sent to the U.S. during prohibition, the museum offers an enlightening and enjoyable experience, and paying a little extra gets you in on a vodka tasting session. Prior reservation is essential!QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from ul. Canaletta), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 888 600 805, www.muzeumwodki.pl. Open 13:00 19:00; Fri, Sat 13:00 20:00; Sun 13:00 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 30zł. X
One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Located in a beautiful Renaissance-style palace in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden, the setting itself is worth a visit. What makes Zachęta more of a gallery than museum is that there is no core permenant exhibition on display, but rather top-notch temporary exhibits showcasing the best in Polish and international contemporary art. Visiting time 6090mins.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art. pl. Open 12:00 20:00; closed Mon. last entry at 7:30 pm. Admission 20/10zł, family ticket 25zł, students 2zł. Thu free. U6
When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community.
Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years, the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland.
As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide. At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in guerilla
warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps.
Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events, foremost among them the POLIN Museum, presenting the history of Polish Jews, and the annual Singer’s Warsaw Festival For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website
Anielewicz Bunker
Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupants - mostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice.
QD‑3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.
Jewish Historical Institute
This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under siege in 1943, the vast archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List
In the permanent exhibit you will see the original documents of the archive, the authentic containers and more. If you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins.
QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00 18:00; Fri 09:00 16:00; Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Sat. Last entrance 1h before closing. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free.
A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some 200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 17:00; Fri 10:00 15:00; closed Sat. Admission 20zł. N
One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through multimedia displays that earned the 2016 European Museum of the Year award. Located within the former Warsaw Ghetto, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Inside, each gallery addresses a different era in the history of the Jewish people in PL, from the 10th century to the tragic events of the 20th. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the permanent exhibit is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in PL. Exhaustive and fascinating, it takes the better part of a day to explore. One combined ticket gets you into permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside, visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Plan ahead because the last entrance to the core exhibit is 2 hours before closing time. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Sat 10:00 20:00; closed Tue. Admission with audio guide 45/35zł, Thu free. TU
August 1, 1944 . Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories.
With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Vistula, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the ‘Armia Krajowa’ or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63-day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler’s forces.
On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 17:00 signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would simultaneously attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a lack of weaponry. Nonetheless the Germans were caught off guard, and the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital.
Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.
Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.
After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.
Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.
Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audioguide (10zł) is handy. You can also get a guided tour in Polish (150zł) or in another language (200zł). Set aside several hours for the experience. Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis.
Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. Visiting time: 3hrs.QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 8:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Admission 35/30zł (kids under 7 free), Mon free. Audioguides in 8 languages 13zł/person. U
Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation.
Smart Kids Planet is one of the best spots for kids and families in Poland! With 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, kids can play and learn as they do different tasks like building construction, shopping for food and fresh produce, learning about sports, and the magic of machinery and production lines, and much more! They'll develop cognitive function and cooperation skills all while having fun (plus there's a rest area for parents!)QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 9:00 20:00.
Stacja Grawitacja
Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features 3D virtual reality gaming by Hologate, a ropes course, obstacle course, basketball and volleyball courts and even a climbing wall with routes for all ages and abilities. Put on anti-slip socks and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while their parents hang out at the well-stocked cafe.
Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00.
A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows, and an upsidedown room - each and every one out-of-this world! Pefect for groups and pairs -- go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye (don't forget to whip out your phone for pics!).QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. Admission 42/32zł.
Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 18 bowling lanes, 9 billiards tables, 4 shuffleboard tables, and 2 electronic dart boads, plus a kitchen that dishes out sandwiches, beer, snacks and more!Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start warszawa. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 10:00 24:00; Sun 10:00 22:00.
The Fabryka Norblina Museum goes over the beginnings of Norblin Factory in the late 18th Century when the land was purchased by Franciszek Ryx who started with two villas and an English-style garden. Now, the space has grown to 10 historic buildings and 50 machines and devices located over 2 hectares—truly a tale of growth! QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. +48 728 594 813, www.muzeumfabrykinorblina.pl/. Open 9:00 17:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 18:00; closed Mon. With a guide, 40 zł; online ticket 15 zł.
Warsaw Arcade Museum
This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 vintage arcade machines and even the history of arcade games and their revolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for kids and adults!QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 999 815, www.warsawarcademuseum.com. Open 14:00 21:00; Fri 14:00 22:00; Sat 11:00 22:00; Sun 11:00 20:00. 60/40zł/1h.
By this point, you’re well aware of how jam-packed Warsaw is. From little cafes (p.84) to walking paths, to Old Town (p.36), park (p.54) and center city (p.26) sightseeing. But sometimes you just need to take a break from all the exploring and relax, and Warsaw is the place for that, too!
In fact, we think it’s better than many other cities in this department for a number of reasons. First, it’s much more affordable. The prices at most spas and beauty centers in Warsaw are very doable for the average traveller. But more importantly, we have variety here. Warsaw spas and beauty centers use different concepts to bring you a relaxing, fun experience that you cannot find anywhere else. Dive in, choose wisely, kick your feet up, and relax
Elektrownia Powiśle’s Beauty Hall is an innovative, one-of-a-kind concept that offers the comfort of holistic beauty concept on a larger scale - The only such place in both Warsaw and Poland at large. Across 1,500 sqm of space, you’ll find 7 beauty and wellness centers with over 350 services available for both women and men. The offer ranges from the more straightforward services, such as hair or nail salons, to natural cosmetics stores and further to those offering more complex treatments, such as aesthetic medicine. The Beauty Hall is, indeed, a varied and holistic temple of wellness, aimed at
relaxing and restoring your body to its full potential. There is even a concierge who can assist guests in planning their visit, choosing adequate treatments, as well as making a reservation in the appropriate salon!QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.beautyhall.pl Open 08:00 20:00; Sun 10:00 19:00.
What do you get when you combine a love of fine wines and beers, a passion for relaxation, and a beautiful spot for health and well-being? Of course the answer is the Beer and Wine Spa!
Here you can enjoy high-quality spa treatments like goat milk baths, massages and more, along with some of the tastiest beverages you can find in the city. In fact, the two are so intertwined, that you can even get facial treatments from the beer and grape cosmetics line which give your skin deep rejuvination. Or book a whole beer/wine spa package and sip a glass of bubbly while you enjoy top-notch spa treatments.
This is really a true symbol of comfort and relaxation, with the concept based on the idea that good feelings and good well-being go hand-in-hand. Plus, you can enjoy 20% off all treatments during a current promotion! Perfect for couples, singles, friend groups and more.QG 7, plac Powstańców Warszawy 2a, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 662 380 090, www. beerandwinespa.pl. Open 12:00 20:00.
When it comes to the top of the top, the best beauty clinics around, Estell is the one you want. This spot offers a multitude of different beauty options, from body shaping and dermatology, to even dental prosthetics. This is where you come for some topnotch beauty treatments.
It's worth taking a look at their list of offerings because it's far beyond anything we could describe here. Some of their most popular offers are skin consultations, body shaping, a whole host of dentistry offerings, eye area treatments and more. Suffering from migranes? They can help. Tired of loose skin from weight loss? Here too. Wrinkles, scar removal, dry facial skin... The list goes on (and on and on) It's safe to say that whatever beauty treatment you're looking for, whatever little tweak you want to make, can be found here at Estell. These are world-class services at unbeatable prices. The goal here is to make the patient feel comfortable and safe, and technicians use top-notch modern technology to treat anything you could want to treat (beauty-wise) with certified, highquality materials. If you want a little beautification amid your stay in Warsaw, this is undoubtedly the place for it. Two other locations at Okopowa 58/72 and ul. Burakowska 14, with earlier hours. QF‑5, ul. Bielańska 2. MRateusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 431 36 66, www.estell.pl. Open 9:00 21:00; Sat 9:00 18:00.
In
to bouncy floors,
While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions.
Wandering the Old Town (p.36) or Łazienki (p.54) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards (p.51) - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre (p.52) and Multimedia Fountain Park further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the high season you can take a ferry to the wild side of Wisła and enjoy one of the city’s wild beaches
Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.75), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the National Ethnographic Museum, Museum of Dollhouses and Photoplasticon are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions, too so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages.
Pinball Station
Listen here, sonny boy. Back in the days before every whippersnapper on the block had a gaming console in their blue jeans, folks used to go down to the arcade and play the pinball machines for a little entertainment. Relive those pre-digital days in this wildly fun and nostalgic pinball museum, featuring over 100 working machines you can actually play on, some of which date back to the 1930s. A great place to introduce this old school game to younger generations, admission gets you unlimited play for the entire day; you can even leave and come back later.QB‑9, ul. Kolejowa 8A, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 600 63 31 15, www.pinballstation.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 11:00 24:00; Sun 11:00 22:00. Admission 59/49zł; kids under 12, 39zł. kids under 4 for free.
Warsaw Photoplasticon
Hidden in a darkened pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema
era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has been located here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during the communist era. Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine (does it matter?) from their collection of over 7,000 stereoscopic images of times, places and people long gone. Visiting time: 20mins.QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.
Young families visiting Warsaw need not worry about wholesome and constructive fun for the kids! Head along to Fabryka Norblina (p.29) and you will find Smart Kids Planet - the first edutainment centre in Poland, that is, a recreational format that bridges the gap between playrooms and science centres. And it does so seamlessly, divided into 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, young minds can journey through many different worlds - building construction, food and fresh produce, sports, the magic of machinery and production lines, and right out into the cosmos with their very own designs coming to life before their eyes! Made for children aged from 0-10, this is certainly not a traditional ‘educational’ environment, and that is by no means a bad thing. Smart Kids Planet is also smart for parents too, with 3 rest zones for Mums and Dads, a cafe with a kids menu, and the Smart Kids Store (p.108)! For children aged 0-10 QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl Open 09:00 20:00. U
Warsaw Arcade Museum
This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 vintage arcade machines and even the history of arcade games and their evolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for a break from the regular tourist attractions, and great for a birthday party, corporate meeting or event, the Warsaw Arcade museum is a must-visit! QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 999 815, www.warsawarcademuseum.com Open 14:00 21:00; Fri 14:00 22:00; Sat 11:00 22:00; Sun 11:00 20:00. 60/40zł/1h. THE BEST ACTIVE
Nowhere is Warsaw’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math). Smacznego!
BursztyNova Restaurant
utensils European
Cheese lovers of the world, unite! A new, oneof-a-kind restaurant has opened in Poland’s capital city, offering a delicious array of creamy, earthy, floral, sharp and overall delicious cheeses that will delight your senses, all highlighted in excellent, cheese-forward dishes. Tucked right into the heart of Warsaw this restaurant aims to give you the full cheese experience, meaning they have excellent pairings of wine, preserved jams, delicate honeys, and bitter or sweet chocolate, all of which accentuate the flavors of these incredible cheeses. The menu goes on to include recipies that combine cheese in hot dishes, pastas, sauces, appetizers and more. Taste a jucy fall-off-the-bone cut of meat topped with lightly grated cheese, or a bed of perfectly roasted vegetables topped with a light mozzarella. It’s all here!
QE‑6, ul. Królewska 16, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 519 310 110. www.bursztynovarestauracja.pl, Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 23:00.
€€€. EU6
Cucina Mia
utensils Italian
Ciucina Mia is both a story and a celebration of Italian cuisine and culture, with excellent, traditional dishes. Taste a wide range of flavors like Amalfi lemons, Umbriaco cheese soaked in red wine, earthy black truffles, salty and savory ham, and fresh mussles straight off a Sicilian fishing boat. In short, the food here is the real Italian deal. The restaurant has even reintroduced a 300-yearold recipe created in a small Italian town. Plus, the flavors are complemented by top-shelf wines and exquisite, rich desserts. And it’s all created by experienced chef Deniele Pampagnin, who boasts an impressive resume that includes restaurants in Mykonos, Ibiza and London, along with Michelinrecognized Chef Lorenzo Robustelli. This place is the real deal when it comes to Italian food and shouldn't be missed.
QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 61 00, www.cucinamia.pl.
Open 08:00 24:00.
€€€. UBE
For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird or a late riser, get a good first feed in the places listed here!
Być Może
Start your day with the aroma of coffee and croissants in this sophisticated French bakery/bistro in the heart of Powiśle. Filling breakfasts include their fresh-baked bread and are served all day. Choose from stacked bagel sandwiches, shakshuka, French toast, loaded oatmeal, granola or chia pudding bowls, or their take on the notorious Croque Madame. When it comes to our tastes, the poached egg (something we’ll never master at home) reigns supreme, and is featured in several hearty sets (Eggs Benedict, Eggs Florentine) we’re working our way through, and then later working off via walks along the river. Second location at ul. Bagatela 14 (H-12), another at Lwowska 17 and another at Plac Grzybowski 2 (p.30) Others: 8:00-22:00.QI‑6, ul. Dobra 22/24, tel. (+48) 519 00 00 14. www.facebook.com/ bycmozewarszawa Open 07:00 22:00. TS6
Nar Restaurant
Brighten up your weekend brunch plans with authentic, savory and sweet Mediterranean food straight from the delicious Nar Restaurant. The bold flavors really stand out here: light and flavorful mezze dishes with yogurt, fresh and fluffy bread and more. A popular dinner and lunch spot, Nar also shines at breakfast, held between 10:00 and 14:00 with dishes unlike offerings anywhere else in the city. Dine on things like Turkish poached eggs in a bed of savory yogurt with crispy sticks of phyllo dough, halloumi, jam and more. This is a breakfast menu totally unlike the normal bagels and cream cheese you can find at so many other spots.QF‑9, ul. Żurawia 47/49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 451 012 922, www. narrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 24:00*. Breakfast is served Sat&Sun 10:00 14:00.6B
Located within the elegant Crowne Plaza Hotel, Nova Wola encourages a wholesome start to your day in Warsaw, with a fresh and organic breakfast selection as part of its impressive modern Polish menu offer (p.93). Whether you opt for the breakfast buffet or à la carte, you’ll find light and healthy options crafted from local and seasonal ingredients. The breakfast menu includes favorites like omelettes with customizable add-ins, shakshouka, brioche with smoked salmon, avocado and fried egg, and oatmeal with coconut milk. For those seeking unique choices, Nova Wola also offers baked sweet potatoes with yogurt, berries, and granola, as well as hummus with roasted vegetables, avocado and egg. Additionally, the restaurant stands out by offering entire pots of coffee, ensuring you have ample caffeine to energize yourself for he day ahead.QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 06:30 10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 11:00. TU
Purr Purr
This all-day restaurant is also the ultimate cozy breakfast spot, thanks to a fluffy Cat Team and delectable food and drinks! Find a number of excellent, unique offerings here, like ruby matcha lattes that combine ruby chocolate with matcha and homemade cream cheese (or, for the purists, regular lattes and regular matcha). Warm teas like the beloved winter tea can also be found here, as can a number of excellent breakfast bites like fluffy Japanese pancakes and dango, a traditional Japanese sweet treat. Of course, don’t forget the biggest draw -- the furry kitties who will lounge and keep you company (and warm amid the cold outside)!QD 2, uxl. Pokorna 2/U4, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 573 538 888, www.instagram.com/purrpurr.wawa, Open 11:00 21:00; Mon 12:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00.
U6
Stacja Caffe
Bounce your way on over to some tasty food as you enjoy one of Warsaw’s best activity parks! Located right in the oh-so-popular Stacja Grawitacja trampoline (and more) center is this charming cafe, which serves everything from mozzarella and pesto sandwiches, to egg breakfasts, gnocchi meals and an array of smoothies! It’s the perfect break after a fun day (and a workout!) jumping around the activity center, which includes a trampoline park, a climbing wall, a ropes course, and way more.Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl/warszawa/bistro/menu stacja caffe/. Open 10:00 22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00.6T
Polish food abounds in Warsaw -- you can get pierogi all over the place. But when it comes to really good, really modern Polish food, you have to know where to look and Syrena Irena is the place to start. By focusing on making really excellent handcrafted pierogi, the chefs of this iconic space have honed their craft to a science. On the menu find a variety of pierogi you won’t find elsewhere—sweet dumplings with plums in brown butter and sugar, and savory ones with duck and plum—and then customize that order with any number of toppings from caramalized onion to “mermaid sauce.” It’s named after the iconic Syrena (siren or mermaid) of Warsaw, and this spot has a ton of little modern touches, from the art to the neon signs to the high ceilings. This spot is not only delicious, it’s photo-worthy too!QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, MNowy Świat, tel. (+48) 535 851 991, www.syrenairena.pl. Open 09:00 20:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 22:00. UB6
One of our favourites, The Cool Cat is part Asianfusion bistro, part cocktail dive bar, all Varsovian awesome. If you need evidence that this laidback cult hangout has hipness to spare, they sells jars of their own vegan mayo and kimchi. In terms of dining in, The Cool Cat specialises in ramen (of course) and serves an iconic bao donut dessert topped with matcha ice cream and caramel miso. They also have weekday lunch specials for only 36zł (12:00-16:00), exceptional coffee, wacky cocktails, craft beer and natural wines. Honestly, there’s no reason not to be here. 2nd location at ul. Marszałkowska 8 (H-12).QI‑7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. www.facebook.com/thecoolcatbar Open 10:00 22:00; Sat 09:30 22:00; Sun 09:30 21:00. T6
Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.
utensils International
Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s Texas shopping mall, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged or 30 days dry-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€€. TUE6
utensils Category of Cuisine
C-1 Map Coordinate
E Live music
utensils International
Inspired by the brewhouses of Bavaria, Bierhalle is an original concept that combines original beer produced on-site with mouthwatering cuisine brought to the table by talented and traditionallyfrocked waitstaff. A popular franchise all over Poland, guests will get to try several flavours of delicious ale (served in enormous steins), and see also see the brewing process in action. The menu offers a variety of dishes from Poland, from homemade dumplings to oven-baked pork knuckle, oven baked salmon, chicken salads and much, much more. Also at Galeria Północna.QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 601 67 79 62, www. bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 20:00. €€€. TUB
N Credit cards not accepted
M Metro o Year-round garden
T Child-friendly
X Smoking room available
U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly
€ most mains under 35zł
€€ most mains 35–55zł
€€€ most mains 55–80zł
€€€€ most mains 80–120zł
€€€€€ most mains over 120zł
Ciao Napoli
utensils Italian
Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.40), Ciao Napoli succeeds in bringing a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, piadina, panuozzo and desserts, it’s the Neapolitan pizzas, with their fantastic thin and crispy dough, which really distinguish this small family-run franchise. You will leave satisfied, especially when you realise how reasonably priced the whole experience is! Their second location at ul. Piwna 40/42 (F-4) has weekday lunch specials from 12:00-16:00.QF‑4, ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 508 69 43 52, www. ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€. TB6
utensils Polish
Workers of the world unite around a large choice of well-presented Socialist Bloc cuisine. Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike. The restaurant closes at 23:00 daily, except for Sundays when it closes at 22:00.QC‑7, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. TUB
utensils Polish
You can’t visit the capital of Poland without trying some traditional Polish food, right? Gościniec has just that - hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki: go-womp-ki). The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. It may feel very kitsch inside, but the food hits the mark and the portions are immense. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 43 (G-7), and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14 (F-4).QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00. €€. TB6
“Czerwony Wieprz” was recommended by The New York Times as the best Polish cuisine restaurant and included in a list of 10 reasons to visit Warsaw.
Czerwony Wieprz Restaurant
68 Żelazna Street, Warsaw
Booking: +48 22 850 31 44
Gospoda pod Zygmuntem
utensils Polish
With locations on the happening Nowy Świat street and another near the Old Town Square, this veteran Polish restaurant is as simple and traditional as it gets. A good option for tourists, families and anyone looking for their first foray into Polish cuisine, the modestly-priced, bilingual menu includes photos of almost every dish. There is a lot to choice, from classics like pierogi, potato pancakes with goulash and mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, to old school staples that have dropped off most modern menus Also at ul.Świętojańska 15QG 7, ul. Nowy Świat 41, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 428 39 43, www.gospoda.waw.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00. €€. TB6\
Japoński Grill NEW
utensils Japanese
Located right in the impressive Food Town at Fabryka Norblina, this stand offers incredible, cloud-like fluffy Japanese pancakes with a souffle consistency that will remind you of eating a marshmallow. But they don’t just stop at breakfast, of course! This happening spot offers food all day long (and until 1 a.m. on the weekends) with both savory and
sweet pancakes and juicy Japanese Kushiyaki beef skewers. For some of the best Japanese street food around this is the spot! QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo Daszyńskiego. Open 11:00 22:00; Wed, Thu 11:00 23:00; Fri 11:00 01:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 01:00. €€.
utensils Georgian
Located prominently in a gorgeous restored pre-war building on Marszałkowska Street, Lomi is the newest addition to Warsaw’s culinary scene -- and what an addition! Here, an award-winning Georgian chef will serve up 75 authentic Georgian dishes, including homemade meats and vegetable pate. Try Georgian wine and a sticky sweet Georgian dessert, along with a range of incredible food. Meat cooked over a traditional grill and finished tableside, dumplings rolled around juicy bites of beef, bread simply filled with savory cheese -- the list goes on and on at this cannot-miss spot. And while you’re dining, enjoy the ambiance of the renovated building, which includes cozy chandeliers, high ceilings, colored glass windows, stone floors and more. QG‑9, Marszałkowska 72, MCentrum. tel: (+48) 799 035 005 https://www.instagram.com/lomi_rest/. Open 11:00 23:00; Fri Sun 11:00 24:00. €€€. J6TE
utensils International
This is where meat and seafood lovers meet (pun intended)! Located in the ever-beautiful Mokotów, MEATing offers up seasoned, juicy meat alongside fresh, light seafood in a gorgeous atmosphere. Their main passion is Polish beef, done expertly with modern touches and paired with carefully selected wines. Taste seared, delicious steaks or melt-in-yourmouth carpaccio. Of course surf and turf gets its due here, with light shrimp alongside tasty beef. Other options include fish in a white wine sauce with garlic and chili . . . the list goes on!. QH 13, ul. Puławska 16, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 453 543 800, www. meating.rest/. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri 12:00 23:00; Sat 13:00 23:00; Sun 13:00 22:00. €€€. U6
utensils Polish
Characterized by a unique atmosphere inspired by the communist era, this space aims to bring the past to the present, with plenty of modernity (and plenty of herring and vodka!) The literal meaning is “Ministry of herring and vodka” and boy do they live up to that! With traditional recipes, delectable herring and classic bar snacks from days of old Poland, like jelly,
tartare, and pickles, this is like taking a delicious trip back in time. Of course, it’s all accented with an array of excellent iced vodka options. They’re often offering live music as well as an excellent location on Nowy Świat -- the heart of everything that’s happening in Warsaw!
M
Open 13:00
Namaste India utensils
What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store almost two decades ago has developed into multiple full-service restaurants. This - the expanded original location - remains the consensus best Indian food in the capital, just ask anyone who lives here. The prices are set so low you can’t help but wonder what’s the catch - there isn’t one; we’ve tried the entire menu and it’s all delicious. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture.
Q
357 09 39, Sun 12:00
Nar Restaurant utensils
Nar Restaurant brings authentic Mediterranean food straight from the sunny, stunning land of Mardin, to a little atmospheric restaurant in Warsaw! bold flavors really stand out here: light and flavorful mezze dishes with yogurt and marinated eggplant, juicy bites of grilled lamb and vegetables, perfectly seasoned slices of grilled beef Lunches are served here from Monday through Friday between 12:00 and 16:00, and the weekend breakfasts are incredible (p.
Saturday nights from 19:30, when you can enjoy a special Raki menu alongside some live music.
012 922,
Sat, Sun 12:00
PierOgarnia utensils
Located right in the heart of Warsaw, these are authentic, handmade pierogi done really well. You’ll find all the classic flavors here, from cheese and potato, to mushroom and cabbage, to meat and of course, spinach. The thing that sets this place apart is the flavor and the locally sourced ingredients. If you’re looking for good, authentic pierogi on your adventures around the city, this is the place to go.
69 80, 12:00–20:00. €€.
PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino
utensils Mediterranean
An original take on Mediterranean cuisine, with a focus on simplicity that lets the high quality ingredients and expert preparation shine. Plus, the biggest Primitivo wine collection means you can experience the top-shelf wine (with roots in Croatia and Italy) as you enjoy your meal. The dishes themselves as well as many ingredients come from the Mediterranean basin and other ingredients are locally sourced. Chefs focus on 3-ingredient dishes that allow them to highlight the expert preparation and quality food.QD‑7, ul. Waliców 13, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 606 444 462, www.primitivo.com.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€€.
Purr Purr
utensils Asian
Have you ever wanted to see adorable cats roaming around, taking naps and just being cute while you enjoy a mug of matcha or a bite of bibimbap at one of the coziest spots in the city? Well, then you’re in luck! This adorable cat cafe and restaurant is home to all of those things, but the real draw, of course, is cuteness! There are no reservations so make sure to get here early and grab a mug of tea or matcha, or a bite of onigiri as you sink into a comfy armchair
and watch the cats roaming around. For the cat part, they ask that visitors be 12 and older, and remember that the Cat Team have a rest day on Monday! While they’re away, Purr Purr features an 8% discount on menu items to brighten your day QD‑2, ul. Pokorna 2/U4, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 573 538 888, www.instagram.com/purrpurr.wawa. Open 11:00 21:00; Mon 12:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. €€.
Setki Powodów
utensils International
A fantastic neighbor of Warsaw’s Polish Vodka Museum, Setki Powodów (Hundreds of Reasons) guarantees live music and an impressive food menu, with plenty of things to nosh on as you listen and enjoy a drink. Setki Powodów offers international cuisine in a comfy street-food style with amazing burgers, pastrami sandwiches and seafood. Relax as you taste delectable dishes, listen to live music, and take in surroundings reminiscent of the nearby Neon Museum. Consume as you wish, and enjoy the small-but-punchy live music stage in the corner.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 54, www.setkipowodow.pl. Open Tue, Wed 12:00 22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00; Sun 12:00 21:00; closed Mon. €€. UE
As the capital of a country that traditionally feasts on meat, and smears lard on bread as a snack, you might be surprised to learn that in 2022 National Geographic named Warsaw the top city for vegans in the world.
& Cocktail Bar
If you're one to think flavor only comes from dishes with meat, let Bliski Wsch ó d dispell that notion right now. This all-vegetarian restaurant packs a flavor punch with meals inspired by cuisines of Lebanon, Turkey, Israel, Tunisia and Egypt. And while you dine on a savory halloumi burger or a crispy bite of falafel, you can admire the gorgeous interior, with delightful design elements that add to the overall atmosphere of the Middle Eastern space. Plus, there are two levels and VIP rooms for smaller parties. Q ul. Złota 11, M Centrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 79, www.bliskiwschodvege. pl . Open 12:00 22:00; Mon 12:00–21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00–23:00; Sun 12:00–21:00. €€. XTUo
This humble restaurant run by the ‘Margins’ Social Cooperative has achieved what not long ago was considered by many to be inconceivable: their hearty vegan variations of traditional Polish dishes are as, if not more, delicious than their meat-and-egg-based counterparts. That’s quite an accomplishment in a country that fed itself in ‘milk bars’ not so long ago. Alongside seitan, soy and cabbage ‘cutlets’ on their frequently changing menu, you’ll also find vegan versions of popular dishes from international cuisines, plus a few surprises. Large portions, fresh ingredients and low prices make this a great option for a healthy meal, but it’s also a great place to connect with Warsaw’s activist communities.QG‑9, ul. Krucza 23/31, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 517 61 51 22, www.lokalveganbistro.pl. Open 12:00 21:00; Sun 12:00 20:00. €€. TU6
Specjały Regionalne
utensils Polish
Famed for their ecological, locally-sourced ingredients, the reasonably-sized portions and affordable prices have long made this an ideal place to sample a range traditional Polish dishes, and their deli allows you to take many of their flavours home with you. They also regularly host events, including folk music concerts, presentations on Polish history, special food and alcohol tastings, and pierogi workshops; contact them to reserve. Also at ul. Gagarina 4 and ul. Dąbrowskiego 3 (Mokotów), and ul. Płochocińska 195 (Białołęka), with multiple shops and delis across Warsaw.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 44, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 662 25 42 15, www.specjalyregionalne.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:30; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€. XT6
Syrena Irena utensils Polish
Polish food abounds in Warsaw -- you can get pierogi all over the place. But when it comes to really good, really modern Polish food, you have to know where to look and Syrena Irena is the place to start. By focusing on making really excellent handcrafted pierogi, the chefs of this iconic space have honed their craft to a science. On the menu find a variety of pierogi you won’t find elsewhere—sweet dumplings with plums in brown butter and sugar, and savory ones with duck and plum—and then customize that order with any number of toppings from caramalized onion to “mermaid sauce.” QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, MNowy Świat, tel. (+48) 535 851 991, www.syrenairena.pl. Open 09:00 20:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 22:00. €€. UB6
U Barssa
utensils Polish
The Old Town is packed with places to eat, but this is one of the few truly great. As you walk from the market square into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list. In the winter (until mid-Feb) they have a stand in the main square of the Old Town with mulled honey, sausages, pajdy with lard, oscypki (smoked cheese) with cranberry, and warm drinks. In the summer, they also have a huge summer garden, so call ahead to reserve your space in this charming place.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 11:00 23:00. €€€€. XTE6
If you want to splash out on some of Warsaw's finest cuisine, we definitely have you covered - testing the food was our pleasure. Whether you're looking for the right venue to impress a potential client, romantic partner or celebrate any kind of special moment, the following pages will keep you right. Bear in mind that reservations are almost essential in any of these venues.
Elixir by Dom Wódki
utensils Polish
Top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment. At their Vodka Atelier, you can try some 800 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, and flavoured vodkas. Also offered are six different types of Młody Ziemniak vodka. The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary, and takes on Polish classics with a unique food and vodka pairing system, which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish! Such a system is unrivaled anywhere in Poland and the world at large, so this spot is an Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www. restauracjaelixir.pl/. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€€. T
NEW utensils Asian
Take a delicious journey East with chef Marcin Sasin offering an array of dishes from throughout Asia (think Thailand to Singapore, China to Vietnam). Expect elegant dishes bursting with color and adorned with fresh herbs and spices like lemongrass and coriander, as well as an insight into the process thanks to Omakase cooking. That means a special window that allows you to watch the kitchen in action and chat with the chefs, leading to a perfectly tailored menu. Sleek interiors abound, as do fantastic tasting menus. One of the top Asian restaurants you’ll find in the whole city and a must-visit for anyone looking to have a romantic time, a birthday or a special occasion.QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Grand Warsaw), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 67 06, www.restauracja inazia.pl. Open 17:00 23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. U
utensils Polish
Nova Wola encapsulates the spirit of central-west Warsaw’s restlessly developing, trendsetting Wola district. Under Executive Chef Paweł Suchenek’s direction, the menu emphasizes simple plates made with high-quality ingredients sourced from local Polish suppliers and foraged in the wild. culinary traditions with contemporary flair offer you a choice of rich soups, premium Polish seasoned beef steaks, fish, and amongst others, a special seasonal menu, with many of the entrees and even soups available in larger portions ideal for sharing. This upscale approach with a relaxed, sociable atmosphere makes Nova Wola ideal for business, dating or get-togethers. Na zdrowie! Read about Nova Wola’s breakfast on p.85.QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, novawola.com. Open 12:30 16:00, 17:00
utensils International
One of best restaurants in the city, Moonsfera’s chef, and owner, is Jarosław Uściński, the President of the Polish Association of chefs and bakers. So it’s safe to say he takes cuisine fairly seriously. The menu is filled with a mix of Polish/International dishes made with the chef's own personal touch, both modern and elegant, and it shows as soon as you stare wide-eyed at your plate as it's placed in front of you. Try a svory mushroom soup, a main course with pressed bacon and lentil salad, a slow-cooked lamb shank with kale, a bright seared tuna with pineapple. Don't miss veg options like a cauliflower steak in green herby sauce or a beetroot burger (it is Poland, after all. And beet is king). The options here are endless and all delicious. A great place to eat and relax, but also somewhere you can also take part in cooking classes. We like that -- they're making the experience inclusive. QE‑2, ul. Bonifraterska 17, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 560 37 33, moonsfera.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. €€€. UT6E
Prime Cut
utensils International
A unique fusion of New York classics and European flair and a passion for simple yet exquisitely prepared dishes that boast the finest quality ingredients that ensure every bite is a testament to good taste. One of several gastronomic concepts located in Elektrownia Powiśle (p.52), you will enjoy the finest steaks, fresh seafood, and seasonal vegetables. The elegant ambiance, featuring VIP rooms, is perfect for business gatherings or social occasions, while the Cigar Room
ul. Waliców 13
+48 606 44 44 62 rezerwacje@primitivo.com.pl
utensils Argentine
Try some of the best South American food in Warsaw! This Argentinian restaurant offers some amazing steak and red wine -- the classics of Argentinian cuisine. With the concept of transporting visitors straight to Buenos Aires, this restaurant serves up some delicious dishes and drinks alongside live music -- seriously a must, especially for those who love Latin American culture, great juicy steaks, dry wines, and frankly good food in general VIVA Tango Try a bite of bife de lomo, or beef tenderloin, a tender, juicy cut with a subtle, delicious flavor. Sides like a light and tangy chimichurri accent the meat perfectly while the red wine they serve proves to be another essential get.
Argentinians are known first for their beef and then for their wine -- and this place has both! Argentina is one of the largest wine producers in the world, with grape vineyards at the edge of the Andes, in the perfect climate for delicious, ripe fruits. You may (especially as a wine-drinker) know Malbec. This one of the best wines straight from Argentina with subtle notes of plum, cherry and spice. A must-try at this place! VIVA Tango
Finally, the music! Argentina is known for its tango, and boy does this place live up to that reputation. Tango music played in the background provides an excellent accompaniment to the juicy bites of beef and dry, layered sips of wine. Transport yourself to Argentina for a night -- we promise you won’t regret it.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 4, MCentrum, tel. +(48) 735 05 35 35, www.vivatango.pl/. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€€€. UE
utensils Japanese
Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining, and though the food may be great, the overall experience can be a bit awkward or even, ugh...tiring. As such, it’s nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating). Wabu is very much a place for all types of people, from businessmen to couples to tourists and even families, so relax and enjoy. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, that blends in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is extensive and diverse, and includes a special menu for kids, and a mighty lunch offer (Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, soup and 8 pieces of sushi for 49zł). Simple and elegant, Wabu has our hearty endorsement.QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www. wabu.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€. TU6
The popularity of street food and fast gastro concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events.
From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station (p.52) has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. Going beyond an upscale urban shopping mall, Elektrownia also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event spaces. This central food court allows you to choose anything from fries, hot dogs, dim sum dumplings, kebabs, pizza, sushi, curries, Vietnamese, waffles and San Francisco street food. Additionally, there are several more restaurants in the office buildings opposite! You’re spoilt for choice, so let your mood and budget decide (not easy!). Once you’re done dining, check out their five bars, and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings like their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market), selling GMO-free locally-grown produce.QH‑6, ul. Zajęcza 2B, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 11:00 24:00; Sun 11:00 23:00. U6
Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars, this impressive food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p.28). With 13 different world cuisines to choose from - ranging from Tuk Tuk's authentic Thai cuisine to Octo, which offer pasta, pizza, seafood and more. there are plenty of enticing options, including special lunch offers.
The focal points are the impressively long Central Bar - well-stocked with beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of legendary local bartender Karim Bibars, and the small stage which hosts DJs, bands and a range of thematic events. Grab a seat at a communal table, a plate of good food, and get socialising.QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 (Browary Warszawskie), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl Open 12:00 22:00; Wed, Thu, 12:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 2:00. 6T
Inspired by architectural and culinary trends from all over the world, FOOD TOWN in Fabryka Norblina is ideally situated across five picturesque historic halls, spanning a total area of 3,200 sqm. This unique place, characterised by its stunning period architecture, comes together with a soundtrack of live music and an incredible gastronomic offer that will rouse the palate of every guest that passes through. Food Town at the Norblin Factory is the largest catering zone of its kind in Warsaw, with plenty of gastrononomic concepts, taking you on a culinary journey through Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the Americas. Stepping aside from the wild gastronomic offer, you'll also discover tantalising alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages served in four thematic bars. There's also a stunning ambiance with low lighting, indoor and outdoor options and plenty more. The fifth hall of Fabryka Norblina that coexists alongside Food Hall is dedicated to entertainment and cultural events, taking place across the week – live music, stand-ups and exhibitions. Everything is truly going on here, especially if you want to have a perfect night out!.
QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodtown.pl. Open Mon, Tue 08:00 22:00; Wed, Thu 08:00 23:00; Fri 08:00 01:00; Sat 09:00 01:00; Sun 09:00 22:00. Bars are open one hour longer. TU6
This historic Art Nouveau market hall originally opened in 1906, but was renovated, redeveloped into a modern mixed-use facility full of bars, restaurants, bookstores and designer boutiques, and reopened in 2016. Smashingly popular, drop in to the ground floor dining area to choose from dozens of diverse options, ranging from top-class independent bistros - like Sobremesa Tapas Bar, Port Royal and Zachodni Brzeg - to some of Warsaw’s top name gastro brands, like Ćma and Warszawski Sen. If you want a variety of casual, tasty food, this is the place to go, with everything from fries to burgers to gelato. But there are fancier options to choose from, too (oysters and pizza are easily found and they are a must). This is one of THE places to be seen in the capital - easily accomplished thanks to the open floor plan - sometimes the place is so packed that mere availability and access dictate which places inside that you’re able to patronage. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall, which also features shops downstairs and space for cultural events upstairs. Beautiful details abound! QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00 01:00. XTU6
In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. If the weather’s warm, simply head to the river. Elsewhere skint students patronise the dive bars of The Pavilions (G-7, courtyards of ul. Nowy Świat 22/28); for a more mature alternative crowd seek out the artsy bars across the river in Praga (p.60); for a lark with the lads, hit the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7). In practice, bars will stay open well past their given hours if business is good, but also bolt the doors early if not. Visit our website to refine your search and see more reviews. Na zdrowie (cheers!)!
A living legend of the Polish capital that always has a finger on the pulse, Enklawa, located in the very heart of Warsaw, has spent the last 20 years hosting some of the city’s wildest cult dance parties, and, even today, it continues to provide a calendar of hotly pursued events. Starting on Wednesdays and operating over four nights of the week, this classy premises exudes style and modernity, and its spacious rooms are brought to life every evening with the highest quality sound and lighting systems on offer. Now, find a whole host of exciting events happening on Sundays -- on Sunday, Enklawa is the place to be. With a diverse music cycle that keeps both locals and visitors coming back to be in a space of non-stop good vibes, there's a reason why Enklawa tops the list as one of Warsaw's most popular clubs!
QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 12, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 606 31 11 17, www.enklawa.com
Open Wed, Thu 22:00 04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00 06:00; Sun 21:00 2:00. Closed Mon, Tue. XUE
A unique, boutique club with a range of house music and an intimate vibe? Sign us up! Club MOON has a very cool offering, with every Saturday - for a select number of 400 club members - major names in the DJ scene will play house music, deep house, afro house, melodic house, disco house, organic and tech house. This is the spot to be with all kinds of well-known artists playing here, including HOT SINCE 82, Damian Lazarus, Catz ‘N Dogz, Claptone, Adam Ten, Carlita, Salome Le Chat, SAMM, Yulia Niko, Francis Mercier, Nick Morgan, Jimmy Jules, LP Giobbi, Krystal Klear and many more. Every Saturday night, starting at 11 p.m. This is where the young and hip go in Warsaw and it shows in the music and the allaround vibes. Seriously, this is a place you don't want to miss, especially if you love a good beat!
QJ 8, Wioślarska 6, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 533 533 223, www.moonwarsaw.pl. Open Sat 23:00 06:00. Closed rest of week. E
Cocktail Bar
If you’re eager to experience Polish vodka the right way (sip, don’t shoot!), go straight to the source. Located on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum (p.61), this spectacular bar makes dozens of their own artisanal alcohol infusions - earl grey, beetroot and lemoncake are just a few of their surprising and constantly changing flavours. Sip them straight or in delicious modern cocktails inside the refined post-industrial interior that transports you back to Warsaw’s interwar glory days. The lovely seasonal terrace offers great views of the heart of Praga and you can also try a premium whisky tasting from The Secret Speyside Collection. Na zdrowie!QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 52, www.koneserbar.pl.
Open 16:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 16:00 01:00; closed Mon, Tue. UB6
Cocktail Bar
Chances are you wouldn’t find this place on your own, which is why you should seek it out! Though hardly bigger than a bedroom, the locals are eager to squeeze into this corner bar located in a lovely pre-war residential building. With high ceilings and a beautiful design of oriental patterns, warm lighting and brass fixtures, Aura has a real glow to it and a friendly neighbourhood vibe. What sets it apart however, is the huge selection of bourbons. This is the kind of place where the drinks come in tumblers and the seasonal cocktails are as delicious as the atmosphere. If an ‘Old-Fashioned’ is your go-to bar order, this is your go-to bar, where they serve 8 unique varieties of the classic drink.QG‑9, ul. Hoża 27, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 576 36 73 79, www.facebook. com/aurabourbonbar/. Open 17:00 01:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 02:00; Sun 17:00 24:00. B6
Cocktail Bar
This is where you get those gorgeous Warsaw views -- with a drink in hand! Located on the 5th floor of the Barceló Hotel, this bar has views of the National Stadium, the Vistula River and the city’s iconic bridges. You’ll also find a huge terrace at the bar with an outdoor seasonal pool (seriously!) meaning you can cool off as you take in the sights. There’s also an a la carte menu and of course, a wide selection of cocktails, drinks and non-alcoholic beverages. Plus, it’s all pet-friendly so you can enjoy it with your best furry friend. QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeze Kosciuszkowskie 43A, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.elektrowniapowisle. com/restaurants/bheaven sky bar/. Open 17:00 24:00.
Microbrewery
An industrial motif prevails in Bierhalle, with giant tailor-made brewing vats, brickwork and pipes springing from every corner. The beer is brewed onsite, and presented in frothy steins. Our favourite is the pils, and it tastes even better when you ask for a dash of one of many syrups, from banana to caramel, to be added to your brew. Domestic sad cases rejoice - bottles, barrels even, of beer are available for takeaway. Also located at Galeria Północna shopping centre.QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 20:00.
Sports Bar
This is the perfect spot for sitting back, noshing on delicious food and watching the game! This sportsthemed restaurant offers up Tex-Mex -- delicious, juicy burgers, crispy onion rings, tasty burritos -- and a wide selection of drinks (don't miss their margaritas, which are both fresh and delicious!) in a casual environment. The roomy bar also features a wide array of other liquors, bright lights, comfy booths that can sit large groups of people, and more! Plus, don't forget about their lovely garden in the summer.
But the real kicker (pun intended) is the restaurant’s 7 TVs, which means this is the perfect spot to watch the match with some friends. Or a lot of friends -- in fact, this restaurant can seat up to 140 people and 20 people in the garden! This is truly the ultimate spot for any sporting event or get-together with friends. QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeze Kosciuszkowskie 43a, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik. Open 10:00 23:00; UBE6
Wine Bar
This is the ultimate wine and cheese spot, with tons of cheese and classes of delicious, velvety wine that complement the suburb flavors.
Check out our menu
polish cuisine FIND US:
Westfield Arkadia
Jana Pawła 82 St. mob. 601 677 962
Galeria Północna Światowida 17 St. mob. 601 677 937
Opening in October, Figa z Makiem (Fig with Poppies) Cheese Box Bar offers an array of delectable snacks from all over the world, with a special focus on cheese (and the best wine to pair with it), including sheep, goat, cow, Italian, Spanish and French. And, for the real wine lovers, there’s even a cheese with a red wine base. If you dont want to try the wine and cheese there, you can grab an elegant take-out box that includes cheese (of course), a bottle of wine and a card!The take out option is great for presents and
PROUDLY BREWED SINCE 2005
you can check their sports broadcast lineup on their website -- there's always something playing! Plus, for those of us who don’t love meandering outside the bounds of Centrum, this place is really well located. It’s right in the heart of Warsaw at Ul. Wilcza 35/41 and offers up two bars, a VIP room and a seasonal beer garden. QG 9, ul. Wilcza 35/41, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 621 35 06, www.okocimbeer.pub/. Open 14:00 24:00; Fri 14:00 01:00; Sat 15:00 01:00; Sun 15:00 23:00; closed Mon. XB6U
Ministerstwo Śledzia i Wódki - Nowy Świat
Cocktail Bar
Characterized by a unique atmosphere inspired by the communist era, this space aims to bring the past to the present, with plenty of modernity (and plenty
of herring and vodka!) The literal meaning is “Ministry of herring and vodka” and boy do they live up to that! With traditional recipes, delectable herring and classic bar snacks from days of old Poland, like jelly, tartare, and pickles, this is like taking a delicious trip back in time. Of course, it’s all accented with an array of excellent iced vodka options. Not to be missed -- especially for anyone who wants to experience some old school (and long-beloved) Polish flavors! If that’s not enough to convince you, know that they’re often offering live music as well as an excellent location on Nowy Świat -- the heart of everything that’s happening in Warsaw!QG‑7, Nowy Świat 32, MCentrum tel. (+48) 664 700 510, www.msiw.eu/ Open 13:00 01:00; Fri, Sat 13:00 03:00. EU6
Myata Lounge
Cocktail Bar
Relaxed & business-appropriate during the day, Myata’s sleek, modern interior full of plush love seats is the scene of weekend parties and awesome live music that no one in Warsaw can match in quite the same way. Backed up by an exquisite European food menu, high-quality shisha, and an enticing list of classic and original cocktails, Myata has developed a crowd of devoted regulars that make the place special with their ‘go hard or go home’ attitude. The menu ranges from wasabi shrimp and teriyaki salmon to burgers, and they offer almost 300(!) flavours of shisha. There’s live music every Sunday from 21:00 and also Guinness on draught, , but you'll find most of the fairer sex sipping signature cocktails. If you were hoping Warsaw would be a bit more Wild, Wild East, check this place out.QG‑8, ul. Żurawia 6, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 534 72 73 25, www. myatawarszawa.tilda.ws. Open 16:00 01:00; Fri, Sat 16:00 04:00; Sun 16:00 02:00. XE
Pepper Events Club
Making its presence known in the Polish capital’s urban jungle, the anomaly that is Pepper Events adds an exotic flair to the higher-class venues of Warsaw. The unique, sophisticated space includes both a euphoric club scene and a restaurant with an indulgent food menu that includes juicy grilled steaks, salmon tartare, wild boar, dark chocolate mousse..... That’s all amplified with a stunning yearround garden and cocktail bar of the highest calibre, making it an ideal space for an intimate business meeting, a banquet, a product presentation, a large corporate event or even bachelor/bachelorette parties.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 06 80 68, www.pepperevents.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. XBE6
If you’ve come to SEN (PL for ‘dream’) to enjoy the restaurant (18:00-01:00), we give you a humble nod for making a solid choice, but if you’ve decided to stay and sup on the awesome cocktails, we salute you - you won’t be disappointed. Although not huge, the panoramic backdrop pairs up perfectly with the lounge vibe. There is a door selection, so dress to impress, and don’t be put off - the staff do their best to maintain the unique and positive character inside, which just adds to your enjoyment. The music’s great and the bar is well stocked, what’s not to enjoy? If you stay until the end, you may very well agree with the venue’s tag line: it was all a dream.QJ‑7, ul. Wioślarska 6, MCentrum Nauki Kopernika, tel. (+48) 883 02 50 25, www.senwarsaw.pl. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Open Fri & Sat 19:00 05:00 only. XE
Roof Cocktail Bar
Perched on the 21st floor of Warsaw - The HUB, with an enchanting outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Warsaw's city centre, The Roof offers a captivating setting for enjoying drinks, live music, a delightful dinner, or gathering with friends. A truly sky-high experience, the stunning vistas of the city are
perfectly complemented by the bar offer here, which invites visitors to explore the exciting and diverse selection of cocktails, and unique concoctions that have been curated to reflect the extraordinary essence of Warsaw’s skyline in every sip. The Roof floor boasts stylish interiors that contribute to its wonderfully sophisticated atmosphere. The sights are further enhanced by a range of acoustic performances and intimate cultural events that are hosted here, creating an ambience that fosters both relaxation and engagement. Whether you are seeking a memorable night out, a place to enjoy live music, or a spot to savour enticing cocktails while taking in the breathtaking views, this is the one place in Warsaw you need to experience!QC‑8, ul. Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. +48 881 97 41 44, www.theroofskybar.com. Open 18:00 01:00. UE
ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more
Cocktail Bar
The ROOTS has, without a doubt, secured a very special place in the hearts of serious cocktail devotees, both local and international. For starters, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/mixologist, and you should definitely check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the collection of mixers alone already stands at nearly 100 items! ROOTS is so well-versed in the art of making cocktails, they have enough tricks for two great menus - one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal regional flavours. QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 660 333 983, www.theroots.pl. Open 17:00 24:00; Fri 17:00 02:00; Sat 14:00 02:00; closed Mon, Sun. 6
Cocktail Bar
Sophisticated, atmospheric and contemporary, Upper Deck lives up on the perch of Warsaw’s historic food hall, Hala Koszyki. This spot, with warm lighting, sparkling, smokey cocktails and delightful jazz music, offers a exceptional experience. With an impressive selection of over 70 different labels available at attractive prices, it’s the perfect destination for enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. Self-described as having a ‘jazz soul’, live music is an important part of the atmosphere, especially on Friday nights when they have jazz concerts. Ideal for intimate meetings, business gatherings, or moreQF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), MPolytechnika, tel. (+48) 507 66 39 75. www.instagram.com/upperdeck_koszyki/ Open 14:00 22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 01:00; closed Sun. E
Warsaw offers a wide diversity of shopping experiences, from old school markets to luxury boutiques (primarily along ul. Nowy Świat and ul. Mokotowska: G-7, H-8/9) to some of Central Europe’s most modern shopping malls. For visitors, it’s an opportunity to shop exclusive designer brands, catch bargains on known commodities or find forgotten treasures. Happy hunting!
If you’re visiting Warsaw and are a bit of a cigar aficionado, we have just the thing for you, and thoroughly enough, the shop’s name is straight to the point - Aficionado Room! Whether you are eager to buy a cigar to smoke, or to add to your collection, this is the perfect place just off Warsaw’s main ul. Marszałkowska! Enter and see that this places means business with a humidified storage room to prevent cigars from drying out, where you choose anything from cigars costing as little as 30zł to as much as 200zł, with accessories to match your needs. The owners are passionate about their trade, and indeed hobby, therefore provide you with a wide selection of quality cigars from Nicaragua, the Dominican Republic, Honduras and Mexico! The shop doubles as a cigar & whiskey lounge, should you decide to stay a little longer to try out your recent purchases, and why not, as they offer two relaxed ventilated back rooms with comfy leather seating and fine whiskey to match!QG‑9, ul. Wilcza 26, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 577 555 480 , www.aficionadoroom.pl. Open 11:00 22:00.
If you’ve just come out of the Polish Vodka Museum in Centrum Praskie Koneser (p.61) with a new appreciation for Poland’s national drink, then right around the corner, in the same building, you will find Alembik, a small but impressively stocked shop where you can purchase your very own vodkas. Here you will find Polish brands such as Luksusowa and Wyborowa, but not only, as they also sell premium whiskeys, cognacs, rums, gins and champagnes. For those with deeper pockets, there is also the opportunity to shop in private in their cosy 2nd room, where you can also enjoy tasting some exclusive products. Classy.QK‑2/3, Plac Konesera 1, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 513 28 92 60, www.alembik.com.pl. Open 12:00 20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 21:00.Closed Sun.
Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line
This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origincertified by the International Amber Association.
Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl Open 10:00 19:00; Sun 10:00 17:00.
Lilou
A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must-have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas, there are 8 stores across the city including: ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), and shopping malls: Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Galeria Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall, Janki, Atrium Targówek, and Wola Park.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 190 897, www.lilou.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Sat 11:00 18:00; Sun 11:00 16:00*.
E-Manufaktura
It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem, and it may be the case you get home, only to regret not having bought that sweet little tea cup you had your eye on. Now this is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what’s on offer. It doesn’t get more Polish than this. A must-use service.
QF‑3, ul. Freta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e manufaktura.com. Open 10:00 18:00.
Studio Ceramiki
Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. With a mix of cups, plates, bowls and other kitchenware with various colours and designs, you can’t go wrong to buy friends, family, or even yourself one of these classic but quirky items. You can get your hands on these unique items in two locations in Warsaw. The other spot, E-Manufaktura, is on the tourist trail in the city's New Town but worry not, if you missed out on buying during your trip, you can easily visit their site to buy online! Also, they occasionally they hold workshops -- although make sure to call ahead because none are held in February.
QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 11:00 19:00; closed Sun.
In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays. There are no upcoming shopping sundays until April, 2025
Smart Kids Store is an extension of the innovative educational center Smart Kids Planet (p.76), and a one-stop-shop that offers a wide range of products and services related to children’s education and development. The wide selection of educational toys and games, include interactive and STEMbased toys, puzzles, and games that are designed to support children’s cognitive development and encourage problem-solving and critical thinking skills. The shop also offers a variety of art and craft supplies, which are perfect for encouraging children’s creativity and imagination. You can also find wide range of educational books, workbooks, and activity books, including storybooks, picture books, and non-fiction books in various languages, which are perfect for encouraging children to read and develop their language skills. Additionally, there’s variety of educational software and apps, which can be used to supplement children’s learning at home!QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 455 409 382, www.smartkidsstore.pl. Open 11:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00.
Once a thrice-weekly event in Mokotów, this popular organic food and produce market has found a permanent, daily address inside the newly revamped Norblin Factory. A lovely space packed with outstanding food products that are not only certified organice, ecological and health-conscious, but also locally-produced as well, you can bet on a daily selection of fresh fish, meats, dairy, fruits and veg, baked goods, oils, cosmetics and more. If you have the budget, food shopping doesn’t get any more appealing than this. There’s also an organice bistro on-site where you can a healthy breakfast, lunch or a glass of natural wine.QC‑7, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 508 71 74 45, www. biobazar.org.pl. Open 10:00 19:00; Sat 07:30 16:00; Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Mon.
Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior that makes you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 30-
70% off on brands like Adidas, Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Coccinelle, GAP, Guess, Furla, Karl Lagerfeld, Levi’s, Liu Jo, Longines, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Nike, Pinko, Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and more. Just 30mins from the city centre and 20mins from Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport (use a zone 2 ticket and get off at ‘Energetyczna 01’).Qul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00*.
Klif has been attracting fashion lovers for over 20 years, with locations across Poland. If you think you’ve seen this all before, however, you’re mistaken. This is the capital, after all, and the quality of brands is exceptionally high, not to mention the stunning showrooms inside. Shop top tags like MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi, PennyBlack, Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld and DM Moda, as well as respected mainstream brands like Olsen and S’Portofino. Another draw is the convenient, easy to get to location - roll in by tram, bus or car. What’s more, anyone can use the services of the pro stylists at FASHION STUDIO, and this is also the only shopping centre to have a concierge point.QB‑4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 535 41 14 58, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*. Eurospar open Mon Sat 08:30 22:00; Sun 09:00 20:00*.
When Elektrownia Powiśle (p. 52 ) opened, we can only say we were impressed. The exterior doesn’t look all too big, but once inside you realise it’s much bigger than you’d ever expect! So what’s here? Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!) such as Urban Outfitters, True Color, Weekday, COS, Elementy, Paprocki & Brzozowski, Balagan, Galilu, Chosen By (to name a few), plenty more boutiques, beauty salons, a top floor event space, as well as their awesome gastro and nightlife offer (p. 96 ). You can shop until you drop, then pick yourself up with some great food, all the while being delighted with the look and feel of the place too. Q H/I‑6 , ul. Dobra 42, M Centrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www. elektrowniapowisle.com . Elektrownia open Mon Sun 11:00 21:00 Food Hall open Mon Thu 12:00 23:00, Fri 12:00 24:00, Sat 11:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 23:00 Beauty Hall open Mon Sat 08:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 19:00.
Famous, sought after and gorgeous, Silver Line Amber is top-quality
Fabryka Norblina isn’t just for food and sightseeing (though those are excellent things to do at this space). It’s also a bustling hub of commerce! In fact, this open, vibrant area is just filled with boutiques, shops, fashion stores located all across its 26,000 square meter space. Located on levels -1 and 2, the shopping section includes concept stores that offer a whole host of designer clothes, a perfumery, BioBazar with tons of organic food and artisan goods, a flower store, travel agency, photobooth, tailor, tech store, designer boutique, wine store, jewelry stores.... the list goes on. The real question is what can’t you find here? And the answer? We’re not sure. This place seems to have everything!QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, (+48) 22 166 11 04. www.fabrykanorblina.pl/en/shopping.
A fantastic shopping and entertainment centre in the Wola district, just west of Warsaw’s Old Town and City Centre, with more than 200 stores and service points on offer. Among these, you’ll find an Auchan hypermarket, Multikino, as well as H&M, Zara, Etam, Kazar, Homla, Tatuum, and even IKEA! Other services and amenities including a 3,000-capacity FREE parking area, a petrol station, an urban bike station, and the possibility of renting cargo bikes and charging electric cars. We at In Your Pocket are particularly big fans of the FREE Co-working zone, located next to the entrance to Zdrofit. Get to Wola Park by bus 167, 171, 190, 249, 523 and by metro to M2-Ulrych ó w. Q ul. Górczewska 124, M Księcia Janusza, tel. (+48) 22 533 40 00, www.wolapark.pl . Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*. TU
Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Warsaw listed on our website: warsaw.inyourpocket.com
3/4 Koneser Bar 100
Adam Mickiewicz Monument 45
Aficionado Room - Cigar & Whisky Lounge 107
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument 62
Alembik 107
Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line 107
Anielewicz Bunker 73
Asia & Pacific Museum 68
AURA Bar 100
Beauty Hall 78
Beef n’ Pepper 86
Beer&Wine SPA 78
Belvedere Palace 55
Bheaven Sky Bar 101
Bierhalle 86, 101
BioBazar 108
Bliski Wschód Vege Street Food & Cocktail Bar 90
Bristol & Europejski Hotels 47
Browar Warszawski 17
Browary Warszawskie 28
BursztyNova Restaurant 83
Być Może 84
Centrum Praskie Koneser 61
Champs Sports Bar 101
Choose Your Adventure! 48
Chopin Benches 47
Chopin Monument 55
Ciao Napoli 87
Copernicus Science Centre 52
Cucina Mia 83
Czerwony Wieprz 87
Designer Outlet Warszawa 108
Dom Mody KLIF 109
Elektrownia Powiśle 52, 109
Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall 96
Elixir by Dom Wódki 92
E-Manufaktura 108
Enklawa Art & Music Club 99
Estell Clinic 79
Fabryka Norblina 29, 109
Fabryka Norblina Museum 77
Figa z Makiem Cheese Box Bar 102
Food Hall Browary 96
FOOD TOWN - Fabryka Norblina 97
Fryderyk Chopin Museum 50
Gnojna Góra 42
Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 87
Gospoda pod Zygmuntem 88
Hala Koszyki 33, 97
Holy Cross Church 48
InAzia 92
Invisible Exhibition 70
Jan Kiliński Monument 38
Jewish Historical Institute 73
King Sigismund's Column 44
Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge) 53
Kumo To Yaki - Fluffy Pancakes
Japoński Grill 88
Lilou 107
Lokal Vegan Bistro 90
LOMI Restaurant 88
Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum 68
Mariensztat 53
MEATing Restaurant 88
melt museum 69
Ministerstwo Śledzia i WódkiNowy Świat 88, 102
MK Bowling Entertainment Center 77
MOON 99
Moonsfera 93
Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship 56
Museum of Life under Communism 69
Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw 69
Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch
National Museum of Warsaw 70
Neon Museum 62
Nicolaus Copernicus Monument 48
Nova Wola 85, 93
Officer Cadets School 57
Okocim Grill&Bar Beer Pub 102
Okopowa Street Jewish
Cemetery 73
Old Orangery 56
Old Town Defensive Ramparts 39
Old Town Square 40
Palace of Culture & Science 25
Palace on the Isle 56
Pasaż Wiecha 31
Pepper Events 103
PGE National Stadium 62
PierOgarnia 89
Pinball Station 80
Plac Defilad 31
Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire 29
Plac Grzybowski 30
Plac Konstytucji 32
Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul.
Chmielna 32
Plac Piłsudskiego 28
Plac Zamkowy 37
Plac Zbawiciela 32
POLIN Museum 73
Polish Vodka Museum 61
Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki 108
Potocki Mausoleum 59
Powiśle Mermaid Statue 51
Praga Museum of Warsaw 61
Presidential Palace 46
Prime Cut 93
PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino 90
Purr Purr 85, 90
Royal Castle 38
Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska 62
Saxon Garden 28
SEN 104
Setki Powodów 90
Skaryszewski Park 62
Skutery Centrum Motor Scooter
Rental 23
Smart Kids Planet 76, 81
Specjały Regionalne 91
Stacja Caffe 85
BEST ENTERTAINMENT IN WARSAW
BEST ENTERTAINMENT IN WARSAW
ŻELAZNA 51/53
ŻELAZNA 51/53
