Welcome to Warsaw Commerce, Catholicism, Judaism and cafe culture intersect at Plac Grzybowski (p.20).
There’s no denying it, Warsaw has had a troubled history. Positioned at the crossroads of Central Europe, the city has been shuffled between empires and dynasties like a pawn on a chessboard. It’s been a roller coaster ride ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his court here from Kraków in 1569, making Warsaw the new Polish capital. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by the Russians for most of the 19th century, Poland finally returned to the map of Europe in 1918. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, and saw the city develop on a par with Europe’s other great capitals. WWII soon brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose against occupying German forces in the 1944 Uprising. Expected help from the West never materialised, and Soviet tanks looked on from the right bank of the Wisła as the full weight of the Nazi army crushed the rebellion. The Uprising cost the lives of 150,000 civilians, and the city was razed to ruin in reprisal. When the fires were squelched and the dust had settled, German occupation had been merely traded for communist oppression as Poland fell under the Soviet sphere of influence for the next four decades, and Warsaw was rebuilt in stagnant, socialist fashion, earning a reputation as a gloomy city of concrete. But that was then, this is now. Combining intriguing elements of East and West, past and future, Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. The grey, dreary images of yesteryear no longer apply as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you are here to explore trendsetting urban renewal projects or the treasures of the Old Town, enjoy world-class dining or boutique shopping, you’ll hardly be disappointed by what the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw! 6
