Porschist Magazine 68 - Jamaica by PorschistMagazine

Magazine for Porsche enthusiasts • year 17 • quarterly • November/December 2021 • 68

PORSCHE TAYCAN GTS PORSCHE 718 CAYMAN GT4 RS • PORSCHIST IN JAMAICA

TRAVEL PORSCHIST

One Love Jamaica text: kathleen van bremdt - photos: kathleen van bremdt & sven hoyaux

'We Are Jamaicans' / Artist: Deon Simone

TRAVEL PORSCHIST

and of reggae, Rastas and rum: for many of us, that is what comes to mind when we think of the Caribbean island. But of course Jamaica has much more to offer than that. In a rental car we explore both the south and the north coast of the island and we hop over to Kingston twice, which each time provides us with a fantastically beautiful drive through the mountainous interior. In two weeks we have gained a good picture of the island and we got to know some passionate Porsche drivers.

“Welcome to Jamaica!” A smile from ear to ear, a T-shirt in Jamaican colours and a chestnut skin tone. Whistling, Willy takes the suitcases from us and carries them to the waiting car. “First time in Jamaica? Waah? You should have come earlier, man!” A roaring laugh follows. Bob Marley can be heard on the car radio: “Sun is shining, weather is sweet.” That’s it, let the journey begin.

YEAH, MAN! Jamaica is the second largest country in the Caribbean after Cuba. We note that the island of 10,000 m² and a population of almost three million people is blessed with an exceptional natural beauty. The interior is greener than green with dense rainforests with countless waterfalls and rivers. The coastline boasts paradise-like beaches and beautiful bays. The first inhabitants were the Arawak Indians. They called their island “Xaymaca” which means “land of forest and water”. Columbus put an end to their peaceful existence in 1494, after which the Spaniards did what they always did in those days: colonise. They brought slaves from Africa to work on the plantations. After the Spaniards came the British. They turned the island into one big sugar cane plantation. Even more slaves were needed for that. As a result, more than 90% of the population today is of African descent. The official language is still English, but among themselves, the locals speak Patois, a mixture of English and just about every other language that came to the island in the course of history. Result: we can't make head or tail of it. Fortunately, most Jamaicans also have a solid basic knowledge of English, although we still have to listen carefully because the “r” at the end of a word is often not pronounced. For example, a “dollar” becomes a “dolla” and “water” sounds like “wata”. We hear the typical Jamaican “Yeah, man!” used almost every other sentence and we quickly adopt it.

Dunn's River Falls.

OUT OF MANY, ONE PEOPLE Throughout its history, Jamaica has been a melting pot of nationalities and traditions from which a vibrant and unique culture has grown. The Jamaica motto “Out of Many, One People” is therefore well chosen. Jamaica is vibrant, energetic and passionate. The Jamaicans are bon vivants and the atmosphere on the island is wonderfully relaxed. It makes one think that there are no problems at all on this part of the earth, even though there are, but with their “don’t worry, be happy” mentality, Jamaicans are not easily thrown off balance.

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OCHO RIOS: BELOVED PLACE OF TRANQUILITY AND ENTERTAINMENT We start half way up the long north coast of the island. The former fishing village of Ocho Rios is a popular destination that especially attracts lovers of scuba diving and other water sports. The beaches live up to all the clichés: azure water, bright white sand and palm trees providing shade. We are staying in the historic Jamaica Inn, by far the most elegant hotel in the region. It has been in the hands of the same family for over sixty years and the next generation is ready and waiting. The hotel, in fresh white and light blue, exudes a natural tranquility that makes us feel right at home. All suites and cottages face the ocean and are tastefully furnished with colonial antiques. Doors and shutters are fitted with louvre blinds so that a refreshing breeze always comes in through the slanted slats. We prefer to stay on the large, covered terrace that functions as an outdoor living room.

Jamaica Inn, Ocho Rios.

The hotel’s rich history is one of glamour and elegance. In the 1950s, the Jamaica Inn was a real jet-set destination where Hollywood’s finest fraternised with British nobility. Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller spent their honeymoon here, Roald Dahl was a regular, Ian Fleming drank Martinis at the bar and Errol Flynn, Noel Coward and Katherine Hepburn were also happy to stay there. Even Sir Winston Churchill had lost his heart to the hotel. He came there to paint. He would retire to what is now called the White Suite and indulge himself with paint and brush. He is reputed to have said that nowhere in the world, the light is as beautiful as here.

Sir Winston Churchill.

Marylin Monroe and Arthur Miller.

In the 1950s, the Jamaica Inn was a real jet-set destination where Hollywood’s finest fraternised with British nobility.

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Artists: Ueli Bangerter & Errol Keane

KINGSTON DANGEROUS? IT’S NOT TOO BAD. “Kingston, Kingston...” The Lou & the Hollywood Bananas sing-along tune is stuck in our heads. The city beckons. From Ocho Rios it is a two-hour drive through the beautiful interior of the island. Kingston is sandwiched between the foothills of the Blue Mountains and the sea. We first pass through Uptown, the residential area where the wealthy people of the city live. In the foothills of the mountain slopes are residential areas, far away from the bustle and heat of the city. Commercial life has also developed here more and more in recent years with offices, modern shopping arcades and restaurants. But this isn’t the real Kingston. The authentic city life takes place Downtown. Here it is bustling, with people rushing here and there and music that can be heard everywhere. And it seems that everyone is trying to sell something: the market woman behind her neat piles of fruit, the peddler with his telephone cards and the young lad with a whole collection of blingy sunglasses on his arm. Anyone who has not tasted the atmosphere in King Street, Parade Square and the Crafts Market will not be able to form an accurate picture of the Jamaican capital. Kingston has the image of being unsafe and dangerous, but if you follow the rules that apply in every major city, you won’t notice it. Of course there is crime and yes, there are street gangs that regularly fight with each other, but that happens in the ghettos and we simply avoid those neighbourhoods. Nevertheless, it was one of those ghettos that was home to the most famous Jamaican during his younger years. Bob Marley spent his childhood in Trenchtown and wrote his first music there. In his world hit “No Woman, No Cry” he refers to the shanty town. Trenchtown may well be the cradle of reggae".

The authentic city life takes place Downtown.

TRAVEL PORSCHIST REGGAE SETS THE TONE Music and Jamaica are inextricably linked with reggae at the forefront, that wonderful music style with that typical, obstinate guitar rhythm. The widely acclaimed Bob Marley was present at its birth. Thanks to him, this fantastic genre of music has spread all over the world. Reggae is music that makes you dance spontaneously. Not headbanging, but with swaying hips, with arms loosely in the air. Because of the sultry rhythm it is not difficult to get into a kind of trance. Reggae is therefore music where the weed seems to emanate from the notes. Besides reggae, many other music genres can be heard on the island: ska, dancehall, calypso and hip-hop, for example. And among the young people, it is all toasting, dubbing and rapping that is the order of the day.

ROBERT NESTA MARLEY (1945 – 1981)

A bit more about “No Woman, No Cry”. It is often thought that the song is a tribute to the happy single man, but nothing could be further from the truth. The title means “no woman, don’t cry” and is an ode to the power of women. “Everything is going to be alright” should bring comfort to all women who are going through a rough time. And that life can be difficult, Marley himself experienced. The reggae legend’s body of work therefore contains much more than a rocking rhythm and a sweet joint in the sun. Almost all of Marley’s songs have a deeper meaning. They contain the pain of many generations of oppression, the fight against social inequality in society, the desire for a better future and the coming of a spiritual revolution. His lyrics are often misunderstood because he sings in Jamaican-English Patois, which sounds like English, but isn’t, so many lyrics are translated incorrectly. Marley once said: “One good thing about music, when it hits you, you feel no pain”, which says more about the man than all the biographies combined.

‘One good thing about music, when it hits you, you feel no pain.’ Bob Marley

THE SPIRIT OF BOB MARLEY Stepping into the Bob Marley Museum with that knowledge gives a whole new dimension to the visit. This is the place where the legendary musician lived, worked and recorded his own albums as well as those of so many other reggae artists. Everything here is still as it was when the reggae icon was still alive. If he should resurrect, he can take his life back. In the tiny kitchen you find the dilapidated coffee grinder in which he ground his beans every morning, and next to a simple bed stands a guitar. The recording studio looks like it has seen better days, but is still regularly used by his sons. The “Shot room” recalls the attack on his life in 1979, the bullet holes can still be seen in the walls. There may have been political motives behind the attack, but that has never been proven. For the rest, in the museum we see an abundance of photos, newspaper articles, prizes and awards as well as the clothes Bob Marley wore for various performances. Even the mango tree behind the house where the musician played his guitar every day is still standing. The museum is simple, but exactly because of this simplicity it is a beautiful tribute to the great artist who was barely 36 years old at the time of his death. Although Marley is dead, his hero status is still very much alive. Everywhere in the Jamaican streets we come across his name and image.

Bob Marley Museum, Kingston.

Carmen shines in front of the Panamera, Kingston.

PORSCHIST TRAVEL

PORSCHES IN THE PICTURE At the Bob Marley Museum we meet David Henriques, general manager of Porsche Jamaica. He has brought along a brand new white Cayenne S E-Hybrid and a beautiful Panamera in Moonlight Blue for the occasion. The glitzy Porsches are in stark contrast to the austere life Bob Marley led, but on the other hand, this is such an iconic place that a few photos here won’t go amiss. We position the Cayenne under the colourful entrance arch. This image now graces the cover of this magazine. Carmen, a lovely Jamaican lady, would like to be photographed with the Panamera. She steals the show with her radiant smile and her dress in the colours of the Jamaican flag. The Devon House is also a rewarding photo location. This opulent mansion was commissioned in 1881 by George Stiebel, a high school dropout who made his fortune panning for gold in Venezuela, becoming Jamaica's first black millionaire. The 4.5 hectare estate is an oasis of tranquility and the stately colonial building with its large white columns and soft yellow shutters has been immaculately maintained and has lost none of its grandeur. The courtyard houses some of Jamaica's best shops and restaurants. In the meantime, a third Porsche has turned up, a beautiful black 986 Boxster S convertible. Its owner is the sympathetic Timon Massado. “I am a huge Porsche fanatic,” he says. “This is already my thirteenth Porsche.” The three Porsches under the palm trees in front of the Devon House make for a beautiful picture.

Devon House, Kingston.

TRAVEL PORSCHIST PORT ANTONIO: BANANA TOWN We leave Kingston and drive to the far east of the north coast. All of Jamaica is green, but the Portland district is the greenest and most tropical part of Jamaica. The trade winds here blow right at the coast and cause a heavy shower almost daily. Because of the fertile soil, this has traditionally been the area of large banana plantations. Port Antonio has long been a lively commercial town with large warehouses on the quayside. Harry Belafonte found inspiration for his Banana Boat Song here. The phrase “Come Mr. Tallyman, tally me banana…” refers to the industrious porters who were given a tally for each bunch of bananas when loading the boats. In the 1950s, the plantations were struck by a fungus that virtually halted banana production and Port Antonio fell into slumber. In the 1960s it was rediscovered by writers, poets and wealthy Americans who were impressed by the romantic coastline with its many coves, bays and hidden beaches. Among them was the spiritual father of James Bond, Ian Fleming.

JAMAICA : THE CRADLE OF 007

Ian Flemming.

In 1953, the first book was published about the gentleman-spy James Bond.

Fleming was a journalist who, just before the Second World War, was recruited as an employee of British Maritime Intelligence. In that capacity, he encountered quite a few spies, enough to draw inspiration from them for his later books. On his first visit to Jamaica, he fell in love with the island instantly and decided to build his dream home there. It was given the name GoldenEye, reportedly after a secret mission in which he had participated during the war. For three months every year, Fleming fled the dreary British climate to write spy novels in his second home. In 1953, the first book was published about the gentleman-spy James Bond who took on megalomaniac villains in the service of British intelligence. Bond has class, dry humour and a fetish for expensive brands. His suits are single breasted and when he goes to a casino it is invariably in a tuxedo. Fleming took the name of his main character from the author of the book Birds of the West Indies. Fleming an avid birdwatcher himself - thought the author's name was perfect for his protagonist: short and unobtrusive, yet powerful and masculine. Bond’s adventures caught on and sparked the interest of the film industry. In 1962, the British undercover agent first appeared on the silver screen. Immediately a number of iconic elements were introduced that all of us are familiar with by now: the typical opening sequences, Miss Moneypenny, the Bond girls, Q’s gadgets and the quote “Bond… James Bond”. Ian Fleming was so fond of Jamaica and knew the island so well that it was bound to appear regularly in his stories. Jamaica also got a nice role in the recently released Bond film No Time to Die. During the filming in 2019, part of the cast and crew stayed at the Geejam Hotel in Port Antonio. Enough reason for us to spend a few days there.

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GEEJAM: GROOVY JUNGLE-MEETS-CHIC And that turns out to be a perfect choice. Although it seems to take forever before we find the hotel. The narrow road leading there is indistinguishable from the main road. With directions from some locals we eventually arrive where we need to be. Geejam is a unique concept. It was founded by the English record producer Jon Baker and opened its doors in 2008. On a beautiful six-hectare estate, against the side of a mountain ridge and completely isolated from the outside world, he created a separate universe with luxurious cabins and rooms in combination with a state-of-the-art recording studio. It is obvious: Geejam has music at its centre. We check into a room in a recently added section. Our two-storey accommodation is sleek and modern, the complete opposite of the Jamaica Inn. The same island, a completely different style and atmosphere. We slide open the windows and hear both the croaking of the tree frogs and the sound of the ocean waves a few metres away.

Steve Beaver - the current owner of the resort - takes us on a tour and shows us what else Geejam has to offer. Higher up the mountain, nestled among the lush greenery, are three grand private villas with really all the trimmings. All three have a different architectural style and interior, but all three are stunningly designed and have a fabulous view. If you don’t have to worry about spending a few thousand dollars more or less, these are fantastic hideaways. Steve tells us that Daniel Craig took up residence in the highest villa. As we wander through the many rooms, we imagine the bright blue-eyed actor here memorising his script, finishing his daily workout and then taking a dip in the pool. Steve mentions some other celebrity names: Usain Bolt, Beyonce, Drake, Rihanna... A striking number of musicians because there is of course that professional recording studio. If they feel a new hit bubbling up, they can immediately start working on it. World famous artists such as Amy Winehouse, Bebel Gilberto, Alicia Keys, Björk and John Legend have already done the same. There is no denying that Geejam is a very inspiring location and that it has a vibe that cannot be defined. Settling back comfortably in the lounge chairs by the pool, we order a vodka martini, shaken not stirred.

World famous artists such as Amy Winehouse, Alicia Keys, Björk and John Legend recorded songs in Geejam.

Daniel Craig stayed three months at Geejam during the filming of No Time to Die.

TRAVEL PORSCHIST LOOKING FOR FILM SETS The beauty of Jamaica enticed (and still entices) many film directors. Blockbusters such as Cocktail, Papillon, Dr. No, Live and Let Die, Lord of the Flies, The Blue Lagoon and most recently No Time to Die were recorded here. The best way to find those places is by boat. We negotiate for a moment at the water’s edge and then get into Boxer’s boat. He knows exactly what we want - probably the same as all other foreign visitors - and takes us straight to the Blue Hole or Blue Lagoon as the place is called in the film. The beautiful bay in the shape of a teardrop is just as beautiful as in the film and the colour of the water is just as enchanting. The soft-erotic scenes of a very young Brooke Shields frolicking in the water like a mermaid, with her breasts hidden behind her long hair to the regret of some, still linger on our retinas. Brooke is not there, but a few other ladies are happy to pose for our lens. Jamaican women have no false modesty and love to show off their feminine curves.

Dragon Bay Beach and Dunn’s River Falls set the stage for Cocktail, with a young Tom Cruise behind the bar, and the Green Grotto Caves - featured in the eighth James Bond film Live and Let Die - served as an underground hideout for drug lord Doctor Kananga. And then there’s Laughing Waters, the beach where Ursula Andress - the Bond girl par excellence - emerged from the water in a white bikini like a Venus, in the first Bond film Dr. No. A scene that has become legendary and caused quite a commotion at the time because a scantily clad woman on the silver screen was still unprecedented in the early 1960s. And to think that the woman in Ian Fleming’s book version was naked. Imagine if that had been filmed. A lot of filmgoers would have immediately choked on their ice creams.

Blue Hole, Port Antonio.

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MONTEGO BAY: A TOURIST PARADISE Montego Bay, Jamaica’s second largest city, has been a stylish beach town for many years. The miles of beaches are invaluable to the island's tourist industry and have all the ingredients for a perfect lazy holiday: azure waters, powdery white sand and a generous sun. There is still a hint of nostalgia for the time when wealthy English and Americans arrived there on steam ships for their holidays. Today, most visitors arrive by plane. The international airport is only a fifteen-minute drive from the seaside resort.

ROUND HILL: JAMAICA’S MOST SOPHISTICATED RESORT

If you’re looking for a place to stay, there are plenty to choose from in and around Montego Bay: the hotels and guesthouses are strung together. But if you want the best, choose Round Hill Hotel & Villas. Since 1953, modest luxury, timeless elegance and the warm heart of Jamaica have merged here. The resort extends across an enclave of no less than 110 hectares and is known as one of the hundred best hotels in the world. “Germany?” asks the friendly man at the check-in desk. It is a question we get a lot abroad. Dutch and German are easily confused at first hearing. “No, Belgium”, we answer. The man starts to beam. “That's my favourite country!” he exclaims. "Have you been there yet?" is our logical reply. “No, but I am a huge fan of the Red Devils: De Bruyne, Lukaku, Mertens, Hazard… The man enthusiastically starts to name the entire Belgian team. That often happens to us too. Our footballers are world famous and loved everywhere. We are happy to share in their glory. Round Hill, like the Jamaica Inn, has been a popular retreat for the jet set from the start. In the 1950s, these were celebrities such as JFK and Jackie, Grace Kelly, Paul Newman and Clark Gable, now it is stars such as Paul McCartney, Idina Menzel, Heidi Klum and Prince Harry with Megan Markle who come to stay here. And once they have experienced Round Hill, many visitors return regularly.

The vast domain of Round Hill Hotel & Villas, Montego Bay.

Since decades, modest luxury, timeless elegance and the warm heart of Jamaica have merged in Round Hill Hotel & Villas.

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The private villas are called ‘cottages’ in Round Hill jargon.

Ralph Lauren is one of those guests who has lost his heart to the resort years ago. In 1985, he bought his first villa there, and not much later a second. It was therefore not surprising that the management asked him if he wanted to use his design talent for a restyling of the interior. The result is impressive. Crisp white interiors with cobalt blue accents, teak four-poster beds and verandas with checkerboard tiles now define the look. His classic, slightly nostalgic style is a perfect match for the vintage glamour of Round Hill.

Ralph Lauren restyled the interior of Round Hill in his signature style.

Most of the villas - called “cottages” in Round Hill jargon - have actually been sold and are rented out to other guests when the owner is not there. A unique formula that works well. As well as the 27 private villas that range in size from modest one-bedroom cottages to huge complexes with six bedrooms and two swimming pools, there is also the charming main hotel. The Pineapple House consists of 36 rooms. We get the key to cottage number four. We have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, three outdoor living areas and a kitchen. The swimming pool beckons in the perfectly maintained garden. Each villa also has staff. In our case a cook, a housekeeper and a gardener. When we are awakened in the morning by the smell of freshly brewed coffee and we settle ourselves at the patio table for breakfast, still in our pyjamas, we feel like royalty. An egg? Boiled or fried with bacon? Or would you rather have a fruit salad? What a treat.

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'The Cayenne is a clear statement that I am back behind the wheel of my life.' Jaime

PORSCHIST INTERVIEW

Jaime Stewart: a woman with spirit.

Some encounters just cannot be a coincidence. When we walk to the reception of the Round Hill Hotel one morning, there is a bright red Cayenne parked in front of the entrance. We watch on curiously and see how a graceful lady walks up to the car. We start talking and realize that she is the right person for an interview. Does she not have time for some questions and some photos? She agrees without hesitation. She looks delicate, but we soon learn that she is a real power woman.

25 Jaime: Our bumping into each other here really can’t be a coincidence because I wasn’t even supposed to be here at all. I had a lunch appointment and thought it was at Round Hill, but when I walked in it turned out I was mistaken and that I should have been in another hotel. And the moment I get back to the car, I meet you. Such a confluence of circumstances must have been orchestrated by a higher power. Who is Jaime Stewart? I am a real Jamaican island girl. I consider it a privilege to have grown up in Jamaica. I was born and raised in Kingston but now live in Montego Bay. Kingston is great when you’re young. There is always something happening, there is so much hustle and bustle. You get together with friends and have the time of your life. But now - at this stage of my life I prefer the north coast. Life is more relaxed there and I can wind down. The airport is only ten minutes from where I live, so that's very practical for someone who likes to travel as much as I do. Because travelling is important to you… Absolutely. My groundings may be in Jamaica, but at the same time I grew up with a broad view of the world and an appreciation - sometimes almost an obsession - for other countries and other cultures. I have to take a break every few weeks. I love travelling and being on the road. I almost always travel alone. I think that's the best way to discover things.

INTERVIEW PORSCHIST Judging by your fair skin, there must also be European genes in your DNA somewhere. My father is of Scottish descent, but the Stewart family has lived in Jamaica for eight generations. My mother is British. She came here on holiday with friends, met my father and never left. Do you already have a new destination planned? Yes, several even. First to England and then to Machu Picchu in Peru. In-between those two, I'm also going to Sedona, Arizona, for a spiritual retreat.

A spiritual retreat; can you explain? I've practiced Buddhism for a number of years now, and I regularly follow courses and travel to spiritual places. There is a solid Buddhist community in Jamaica, it's beautiful. Like a gift, Buddhism came onto my path during a really difficult time in my life, a time when I knew I had to make some pretty tough, life-decisions. As a woman it's easy to spread yourself too thin, being everything to everyone, and completely losing connection with yourself at the same time. And that's exactly what happened to me. I was intensely engaged in my career, as well as giving my all to my family, friends, anyone who needed me, but had to admit I was on a hamster wheel and wasn't happy. I'd forgotten who I was. Once you've come to that realization you've no choice but to make big changes, or it just perpetuates, and that wasn't an option for me. I had to take my life back into my own hands. It's been a journey but I'm thoroughly enjoying reconnecting with me...seeking out the things I love doing, being spontaneous, finding the fun in life again and re-discovering who I am at this stage of my life. Buying the Cayenne was in a sense the result of that, a statement that I am literally back behind the wheel of my life, and having fun! Why a Porsche? Because of the fun factor. My brother is the Porsche importer in Jamaica, so I was of course familiar with the brand, but I had always opted for, well, rather inconspicuous brands, not for a sports car. So I decided to change that. After all, you only live once. For several reasons it had to be a Cayenne. I have four children and therefore need a lot of space. The roads in Jamaica are not all in great condition. The best option is therefore a sturdy, reliable SUV so that you can get everywhere you need to be. And the Cayenne is just a fantastically beautiful car. I had the colour red in mind right from the beginning. It is rebellious and idiosyncratic. Where did you buy the Cayenne? In Kingston, from David Henriques. I understand you have met him. David is a fantastic salesperson: young, but very driven and funny. I sometimes asked him these crazy questions. “I’m 42, recently divorced and I'm buying a Porsche. Does it seem like I'm having a midlife crisis?” He had a hearty laugh at that. The look & feel of the car was very important to me. I wanted it to be a real reflection of my personality. So David and I talked a lot about options and details. Thanks to David, I was able to put the car together in such a way that it fully meets my wishes. And yet in the end it was not delivered as you ordered it. No, that's right. (laughs) I had chosen an all-black interior. Initially I wanted the seats in a black and white herringbone pattern, but in that version the third seat at the back is lost. With four kids, I need five seats, so I had to drop that first idea. My choice then fell on black leather with chalk stitching. When the car was delivered, David sent me a text saying there was a problem, the seats were not as ordered. My heart sank. I had been waiting for that car for months and was so looking forward to it, I couldn't believe that something could still go wrong. And then David sent me a video and I saw the black seats with white inlays. I was sold immediately. I liked that version even better! It was like our meeting: it was meant to be.

You're very fond of Jamaica, that's obvious. What makes the island so special to you? In Jamaica you have everything. Whichever direction you drive in, you'll find yourself in a completely different world within two hours. Here in Montego Bay you’ve got the ocean and golden beaches and a five star hotel. On the south coast, the coast is rocky, dark and fierce. It's like getting on a plane and getting off in another country. I like coming here because here, you’ll find the best food in all of Jamaica. Another two hours in the other direction and you arrive in Ocho Rios, tropical and colourful, and as you head into the mountains you will discover waterfalls, fantastically beautiful flowers and amazing views. At a certain height it gets chilly and you’ll even need sweaters. When we couldn't travel last year because of Corona, I spent a few days in the Blue Mountains with my children. We took long walks, sat around a wood fire with a lovely mug of hot chocolate and it was just like being in Switzerland. Jamaica is really amazing. ♦ We can definitely agree with that. Thank you for this chat.

TRAVEL PORSCHIST

JAMAICA AND RASTA’S The Rastafarian movement was established in the 1930s, mainly as a protest against the Jamaican (white) establishment. The great champion of the rights of the black population was Marcus Garvey (18871940). He predicted that one day there would be a black king who would defend the interests of the black people. When Haile Selassie - whose real name was Ras Tafari Makonnen - was crowned King of Ethiopia in 1930, Rastafarians proclaimed him the representative of God on Earth.

We want to know how a Rasta experiences life in 2021. However, for that we first have to find a real Rasta and that is more difficult than expected. Many Jamaicans wear dreadlocks and a colourful woollen hat, but that does not mean that they are also supporters of the Rastafarian movement. But Spider, a fisherman from Ocho Rios, is a genuine Rastafarian. “Rasta is the authentic, natural way of life before the advent of the scissors and the comb,” he says. “Some people cut their hair and say they’re Rasta at heart, but they can’t be. A Rasta is something you are with your whole being. All the men in the Bible had long hair: Abraham, Moses, Samson, Jesus, you name them. You won’t find a picture of them with short hair anywhere. The Old Testament is the basis of Rasta philosophy, but Rastafari is not a religion”, he continues. Rastafari is a philosophy of life. As a Rasta, you are always a revolutionary because you fight in a positive way against all that is negative. And we follow certain rules. Besides the fact that we never cut our hair, we don’t eat fish or meat, we stay away from corruption and everything that is decadent and we live without stimulants such as coffee and alcohol”. That weed does not fall under this is very logical, according to Spider. “Marijuana or ganja is the herb of wisdom and you can never have enough wisdom”. Clever.

Spider, a fisherman from Ocho Rios, is a genuine Rastafarian.

APPLETON: RUM AT ITS BEST But we are not Rastas and therefore do not have to deny ourselves alcohol. We drive to the Appleton Estate, Jamaica’s oldest operating rum distillery. Rum has been produced here since 1749. The brand has a long history of dedication and craftsmanship. Appleton is a so-called company town. The employees live close to the distillery and the 4400 hectare plantation. The fertile soil, tropical heat and long days of warm sunshine punctuated by afternoon showers give Appleton’s premium rums their unique terroir. We learn that this French term from the wine world is also used for rum. During the tour we get acquainted with the production process. For rum you only need three products: sugar cane, spring water and yeast. The magic is in the fermenting, distilling and blending. Finally, we get to taste some – always a nice way to round off a visit. Of course, we don’t leave the estate without buying a few bottles so that we can evoke the unique spirit of Jamaica with every sip at home.

Appleton Estate is Jamaica’s oldest operating rum distillery.

Appleton Rum has a unique smell and flavour.

THE LESSER-KNOWN SOUTH: A RUGGED COAST WITH QUIET SPOTS The road to the other side of the island through the interior provides us with a fantastically beautiful ride. The road meanders through the Santa Cruz Mountains and offers beautiful panoramas. Waterfalls thunder down and cleave through the intense green vegetation. The south coast is completely different from the north coast. Most of Jamaica is green and lush - the quintessential Caribbean picture - but this corner of the island receives little rainfall. Instead of swaying palms we see cacti and acacias and instead of golden sandy beaches the coastline is rugged and sloping. Here you will not find hundreds of tourists on lounge chairs, raked sand and a wide range of water sports. The great charm of the south coast is its tranquillity. The sea here is still the territory of the fishermen, the land that of the farmers. We end up in the middle of the everyday life of the ordinary Jamaican and we like that very much. The prettiest spot on the south coast is Treasure Beach, a collection of small coves.

Jakes Hotel at the rough south coast.

JAKES: ARTFULLY QUIRKY At the entrance stands a dilapidated car with two people in it. At least we think they are people. Until we take a look inside and see that they are mannequins. It immediately indicates that Jakes is not your ten-apenny hotel. We follow a path along wild flowers and enter a bright pink painted building. From then on we find ourselves in an eclectic, eccentric world where everything is different to what we are used to. The hotel consists of cottages and villas scattered in the garden and on the coast. No two buildings are the same. Some have a Moorish feel with a rooftop sun terrace and battlements, others are fairy tale-like with a spiral staircase on the outside, the railing of which is made of gnarled branches. We see many mosaics, round shapes and colours in all shades of the rainbow. It seems like a piece of Gaudi in Jamaica. And that turns out to be correct because the inspiration behind this unconventional resort is an avid admirer of the Catalan architect. Jakes is Sally Henzell’s life’s work. She is a woman with an unbridled imagination and a non-conformist creative mind. Our bungalow comes straight out of a fantasy novel: bright blue walls, a bed with a headboard in the shape of a lotus flower and alcoves of coloured glass. The shower is outside behind a driftwood screen. Bottle necks serve as coat racks. When we throw open the louvered windows, the ocean is at our feet. The high waves roar frantically to and fro. Treasure Beach is also known for its excellent cuisine. At Jack Sprat we feast on the most delicious lobster we have ever eaten.

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32 PELICAN BAR: A BAR IN THE OCEAN A mile offshore from Treasure Beach, in the turquoise waters of Parottee Bay, we find the Pelican Bar. It is no more than a hut made of scrap wood on a sandbank. It was built in 2001 by Floyd, a local fisherman. Initially, the bar was just for Floyd’s fishing buddies to fraternise after a hard day’s work and enjoy a hearty pint and some seafood. But soon others also found their way to the cosy ocean bar. The atmosphere is carefree and jovial, which probably has a lot to do with the weed that circulates quickly and that you can smell from afar. Between drinks we take a dip in the water. There is no better place to watch the sun go down than here.

Pelican Bar is no more than a hut made of scrap wood on a sandbank, but the atmosphere is fantastic.

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Water Lane, Kingston.

KINGSTON REVISTED Timon Massado, the owner of the beautiful Boxster Convertible that we photographed in front of the Devon House in Kingston, calls us and asks if we wouldn’t like to come back to Kinston. He has found a number of friends who are Porsche owners, and who would also like to have a picture taken with their car. We can’t let such an opportunity pass us by. We change our plans and are back in the capital the next day. We head to Water Lane and Fleet Street where exuberant street art brightens up the walls. This was once a completely neglected neighbourhood which was best avoided. Now the murals provide a positive and energetic vibe and the artistic facelift has completely changed the atmosphere. Several agencies including Kingston Creative and the Paint Jamaica collective support the street artists.

Four Porsches in a row downtown Kingston: that creates spectacle!

The sound of roaring engines announces the arrival of the Porsches. There are four: Timon’s black 986 Boxster S convertible, a red 993 Carrera, a blue 987 Cayman S and last but not least another 987 Cayman S, this time in black. We ask a young rapper who is just shooting a video clip with some friends if he wouldn’t like to film in-between the Porsches. The boys go completely crazy. Of course, they had not expected such a bonus. When a professional photo crew arrives a few minutes later with two scantily clad models, the floodgates are well and truly open. They too like to stroll among the cars. The whole event attracts many spectators. It just shows how a small-scale photo shoot can grow into a small event in no time. Before it gets too risky – because we should have applied for our photo shoot – we pack our cameras and disappear rapidly. But we have our prize. We pass by the national athletics stadium and salute the stone effigy of Usain Bolt, the fastest sprinter ever.

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JAMAICA: LICENSE TO CHILL Jamaica touched us from the very first moment. The overwhelmingly beautiful nature, the radiant weather, the colourful population, the relaxed atmosphere and the central role of music provided an indelible experience. “One Love” is too little to sum up Jamaica. Make it a hundred. One thing is for sure: you really don’t need weed to get high in Jamaica. ♦

Jamaica is vibrant, energetic and passionate. 36

With thanks to: • Inge Van Lysebeth, Amazing Destinations • Hans van Wamel, Jamaica Tourist Board represented • Christopher Burke, Marketing Jamaica Tourist Board • Christina Taylor, Marketing Manager ATL Automotive Ltd • David Henriques, Head of Business Porsche Jamaica • Eric Morrow, Owner Jamaica Inn, Ocho Rios • Steve Beaver, Owner Geejam, Port Antonio • Joseph Forstmayer, General Manager Round Hill Hotel & Villas, Montego Bay • Coleen, Jakes, Treasure Beach • Timon Missado, Justin Nam, Raymond Shields, Winston Marshall: Porsche owners, Kingston • Rory Daley, Jamaica Observer

‘Toots’ / Artist: Joshua Solas • Model: Michelle Domingos