PORTAFOLIO WINTER 2010 | 2011 VOL. 1 ISSUE 1.

PORTAFOLIO

WINTER 2010 | 2011

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PORTAFOLIO letter

from

jhonnatan

the

editor

hernandez-bonola

editor-in-chief

4

contributors winter

2010

contributors

6

fashion arc: anne

warrior

cesar

cuevas

ballad

of

jhonnatan

chase

MWUS

angeles)

the

black

veiled

80

bride

12

things

42

stern

72

wild

me

(London)

(nyc)

comme

les

jhonnatan

garรงons

hernandez

martinez

the

88

(Chicago)

dia

Benito

in

(Los

aitken

color

angeles)

hernandez(Chicago)

the

stormy

de

goddess

edwards(Los

29

(McAllen)

sahara

i

dream

seine

36

sun

60

tribune

22

runaway

94

cameron carpenter(NYC) aurora crowley (NYC)

last karin

kiss

miranda YANN

inna

2

from

pritzel

feron

the

of

la

(ireland)

(FRANCE)

romanenko

(chicago)

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illustration

timeless luka

ukoprina

(Bosnia

&

herzegovina)

18

interviews in

aurora

the

words

crowley

of:

(NYC)

58

(NYC)

70

photographer

chong

cha

fashion

designer,

diane

pernet(paris)

fashion

film/journalist,

vall

RAMPAGE

ponomarenko

supermodel,

NEW

8

ASVOFF

(Moscow)

MADISON

PARIS

50

photography bliss

52

come

fire

64

here

92

aurora

crowley

on

mickey,

jhonnatan

i

was

ann

hernandez

ardnt

rebels nicole

light

my

(CHICAGO)

(BERLIN)

without

a

you

portafolio:

demeshik

thank

eric

(NYC)

cause

(moscow)

from

krull

supervising

editor

COVER (CHICAGO) DIRECTION | STYLING | EDITING | PHOTOGRAPHY: JHONNATAN HERNANDEZ

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86

BACK COVER photo: inna romanenko Gown: Jhon hdez Credits on page 94

HAIR AND MAKE UP: BELEN GALVAN ASSISTANCE: MARIA JOSE PIZARRO MODEL: MADDISON @ FORD LOCATION: PRITZKER PAVILLION MILLENIUM PARK

DRESS: ELDA DE LA ROSA COUTURE VEIL: JHON HDEZ

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EDITOR’S LETTER

T

o mark the beginning of a new existence, we do not return to mere casualty, but rather to a compilation of luxurious inspirations, glorious motivation, and to the deepest inhabitants of our mind: our desires.

Therefore, we create that which becomes, in a basic structure, a new being. A collection, a piece, a note, for whatever you find yourself engaged to, we create a new beginning full of illusions.

For a new generation where aiming high is the standard and dreaming is no longer a mere concept but a reality, we take great pride in presenting the creators of tomorrow today. Under the guide and inspiration of some of the best creative minds in the world, I am convinced that our ideas are conceived to make a better tomorrow under the universal language of art, music and, most of all, a passion for creating.

I believe that not only is the past something that forms our tomorrow, but also that it is forming our today, our moment, this instant, in every way conceivable. We believe those who document and create will lead. In a time where time itself is the most expensive, precious and irrecoverable gift we receive, we want to show our appreciation to those that make a mark on our lives with their passion and dedication, and who, at the end of the day, consider themselves nothing more or less than just someone passing through this world.

Jhonnatan HernĂĄndez Bonola

Editor-In-Chief | Creative Director

4

In Memory of Alexander McQueen ...this is for you Lee.

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CONTRIBUTORS YANN FERON (France/NYC) Photographer Yann feron started his career as a photographer at the age of 17. A true citizen of the world, he was raised in France and traveled to more than 38 countries ss a Photojournalist, he displays an undeniable talent to capture the true essence of a place, from the purity of its lighting to the richness of its culture, creating powerful pictures, filled with emotions and sincerity.

As a Fashion Photographer, with his unmistakable colorful style, he quickly became the favorite of many model agencies, artists and magazines, shooting memorable covers and editorials.

For almost a decade, Yann has been instrumental in launching the career of designers, musicians, models and actors.

Luka Ukropina (Bosnia and Herzegovina) Visual Artist I am from Trebinje a small town in Bosnia and Herzegovina. I continued to live there until the age of 18, when I decided to go to college and study Computer Science.

I graduated in 2007 and right after that, I came back to my hometown where I work as a freelance web/graphic/fashion designer.

About my interests, I believe in art/fashion and nothing else. I love the design process of everything... dress, shoes, music, album covers, foods, pictures, etc. I love to see things from behind all that “shiny piece of paper or some expensive pattern/texture”, that story behind the final product is the best part, it makes it all more valuable ANNA ARNDT(GERMANY) Visual Artist Anna is a Berlin-Based visual artist with a focus on photography and motion design. she has contributed a shoot that is set in the berlin underground club scene. The title is “ich war hier” (i was here). it was a collaboration with luise trapp.

She states: “I am afraid that most of my work has a kind of social statement to it, because i like to convey an idea on several levels.”

Anne Edwards (LOS ANGELES) Fashion Designer Designer of Anne Richardson Collection, Anne loves to make things out of textiles. She exquisitely handcrafts miles of yarn into flattering forms, mostly for women although some projects have been for men. Her collection of yarns and fabrics is longing to be made into something - something pretty for someone, somewhere. That luxury stash from the years of being a maker, a user and a trader of textiles that are not only elegant but eco friendly and innovative.

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: jhonnatan hernandez-bonola (Chicago) EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR: Inna Romanenko (chicago) CREATIVE/ART DIRECTOR: jhonnatan hernandez-bonola (Chicago) ASSOCIATE DIRECTORS: AMERICAS Humberto Kuri (montreal) belen galvan (chicago) Benito Martinez (mcallen)

PORTAFOLIO MAGAZINE FALL | WINTER 2010

PREMIER ISSUE - vol 1. issue 1.

NOVEMBER 21, 2010

premier issue done non-for-profit and without sold advertising space. issue for subscribers only contains the 5 limited edition covers and additional material. if you wish to purchase ad space please contact:

ASSOCIATE DIRECTORS: EUROPE khwezi kahundu (london) stormy aitken (london)

publisher/webmaster/sales advertising/marketing:

FASHION DIRECTOR: jhonnatan hernandez-bonola (Chicago)

President/Creative Director, JHON HDEZ, INC. 2630 N. Harding Ave Chicago IL, 60647 t. 773.606.5525 hdez@portafoliomag.com jhon_hdez@jhonhdez.com

FASHION EDITORS: Janet Ukunola (nyc) Cameron Carpeneter (nyc) CREATIVE ADVISOR: Aurora Crowley (nyc) SUPERVISING EDITOR: eric krull (chicago) Contributing photographers/Illustrators: Nicole Demeshik (moscow) Cesar Cuevas (Los angeles) Hector (moscow) Achraf Amiri (belgium) karin pritzel (ireland)

jhonnatan hernandez-bonola

intern positions available: send resumes to: internships att: portafolio mag

JHON HDEZ, INC. 2630 N. Harding Ave Chicago IL, 60647 t. 773.606.5525 intern@portafoliomag.com

SUBSCRIPTION inquiries to subscriptions@portafoliomag.com. ANNUAL RATES (USD): US 69.95/year. canada 79.95/year, mexico: 89.95/year, foreign: 109.95/year. to subscribe send mailing info with check, money order or credit card information (VISA, MC only) to: ATT: PORTAFOLIO MAGAZINE. JHON HDEZ, INC. 2630 N. Harding ave.Chicago, IL 60647.

PORTAFOLIO welcomes all editorial contributions made to above address or to submissions@portafoliomag.com ISSN 2156-9525 (print) ISSN 2156-9533 (online) | volume i issue 1 | portafolio magazine is printed in the USA and published semi-annually. JHON HDEZ, INC. 2630 N. Harding Ave, Chicago IL 60647. Š 2010 JHON HDEZ, INC all rights reserved. reproduction without permission is prohibited. postmaster: send address changes to ATT: PORTAFOLIO MAGAZINE. JHON HDEZ, INC. 2630 N. Harding ave. Chicago, IL 60647.

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photo by Miguel Villalobos

PORTAFOLIO

in the words of

D I A N E P E R N E T

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The Future of Fashion in Film

image by FILEP MOTWARY

Interview by Jhonnatan Hernandez Bonola It is no surprise that our Lady in Black, Diane Pernet, has been recognized worldwide as one of the most influential women in fashion. During the late 70s the label she created under her name, proved to be a hit and made it through to a number of publications. Her amazing personality and eye for talent landed her a great and successful career as a fashion journalist as well,Her passion for film has allowed her to combine the best of her talents and create one of the most innovative and most respected fashion film festivals worldwide: A Shaded View on Fashion Film Festival. Celebrated this past September, we have the coverage of its participants and an exclusive interview with Diane herself.

JHB: First of all Diane, thank you very much for the great honor you have granted me. Considering the constant evolution of the industry, reaction wise, what do you feel is the difference between advertising on film as opposed to photography?

DP: Two obvious elements: sound and movement. The moving image takes on a whole new dimension that photography can only allude to. It is another medium where brands can promote themselves.

JHB: Now, one could conclude that there is a greater cost involved in creating a film for a designer to promote his or her work, as opposed to a photo spread. For example, in a season’s collection, you would have to gather a director, producer, camera crew, and models, who have some acting ability, for one advertisement. However, in my opinion, there are more pros than cons in film since a buyer or editors can get a better understanding of the behavior of the fabric in a collection.

With still photography, there is retouching and other types of image manipulation to make the clothing look better. This begs the question, financially, is it more cost effective for a designer to create a film for promotional purposes or work with a photographer for their campaign? If so, why.

DP: They are two totally different ways of conveying an idea. Yes, of course, film involves a director, a sound designer, an editor in addition to all of the usual suspects from a photo shoot: stylist, hair and make-up artists, assistants, etc. The cost depends on the type of equipment, if it is a RED or SCARLET footage and the camera is also quite expensive. As for retouching, there is a company called D Touch that deals in digital retouching for films. It is still in a rather experimental stage. On a moving image you really see how it all works. Maybe film is like ‘couture’ it is more about creating an image and a dream. For instance, take the YSL film using Michael Pitt that was in ASVOFF 2. It is for a perfume, you never see the product, you hear a voice off talking about fabric in the most sensual way and you see this beautiful man just silent making subtle expressions. It is transporting and leaves a strong image in your mind. It is a very successful viral and you never even saw the product. Film is about creating an atmosphere and an identity does eliminate the other.

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using all of the elements available where as photography is limited to image. Please understand I do not see film putting an end to photographic shoots, they both have their place and one does not nullify the other. It is like the internet and print, one does eliminate the other.

JHB: Do you think that it would take time for people to adapt if designers started to take this direction for the promotional aspects of their company?

DP: We all know that regardless of how fast fashion moves the fact is that the structure of the fashion weeks has not changed in decades and the likely hood of the majority of designers opting for films instead is not likely to happen in the very near future. What is happening is that all designers from Prada, YSL, Rodarte, Chanel, Gareth Pugh, Missoni, to virtually unknown designers are expanding their universes through the medium of film. The reach is the planet where as with a fashion show you only have a capacity for maybe 200 – 500 that is why there is so much live streaming of the events now. A film lasts, a show is over in 7 minutes.

JHB: Given the current economic crisis and all the costs involved with producing a fashion show from the ground up, many designers have decided to cut down on how elaborate the production of their shows are, some going to the extent of merely doing photographs and slide shows of their collection in lieu of a runway showing. Do you think that if shows were broadcasted online, it would significantly cut expenses for designers?

DP: I think that opting for a fashion film as opposed to a fashion show would greatly reduce the budget and at the same time increase the brands visibility.

JHB: As far as fashion shows online go, SHOWstudio has been one of the largest supporters of streaming fashion shows live from their site. Do you believe that within a few seasons, other designers will start to go in that direction? In other words, do you believe this is the future of fashion shows?

DP: I’m not sure that this is the future of fashion shows as I see it in a different way but what I do see is that the world of fashion has been democratized through the internet and now live streaming. I think that is a wonderful advance. I am a huge fan of SHOWstudio. I think they have always been at the forefront of innovation and experimentation with photography and now the moving image. What I think is that in the future fashion shows will be more like entertainment, something like Tokyo Girls where the shows are open to the public at the time when the clothes actually are in the shops and that people can watch the show and order directly from their mobile phones. Even though I think, with few exceptions, fashion shows are not that necessary and films and installations feel more real at this point, I know that I am in the minority with that thought and that a lot of people cannot imagine fashion without catwalk shows so designers are not going to be that easily convinced that if they do not do a catwalk show they are still going to be able to get as much press as if they did.

JHB: On an Interview you had with “NOT JUST A LABEL”, I quote: “Like Josephine Baker, I have two loves, Fashion and Film.”

Most of us know you were a designer in the late 70s and throughout the 80s, that you were quite successful in New York and that you have a degree in film. However, you decided to pursue a career where you could fuse your two biggest passions together instead of conforming to one. Do you feel you have evolved from where you started in fashion to where you find yourself today?

DP: It feels right and that I am completing a circle. I do love both fashion and film and with my fashion film festival I am able to provide a platform for the two mediums I love. This season I’ve noticed more actual films than moving photo shoots which I think is exactly how it should be. It’s an interesting time now where all photo agents are telling their photographers that now they have to learn film. The thing is it is quite different directing a film and directing a photo shoot and what tended to happen initially was photographers were shooting films in the same way that they did photo shoots except there was movement and that was not all that exhilarating, To answer your question, I started out studying film, documentary, then I became a fashion designer for my own brand for 13 years. I’ve always loved the two so to be able to put my two passions into one vehicle feels like a nice place to be.

JHB: I consider you a blessing as I start my career in design. Personally, you have provided me with so much insight and constructive criticism of my work and I deeply appreciate everything you have done for me since the first day we talked.

Now, I remember that you told me once after speaking with you about some of my projects that the first thing I should do is to “get rid of my fear and to stop putting so much pressure into myself – that I should just do what I like to do, enjoy it and relax.” I have to say, it is probably the best piece of advice I have ever received. Now given the fact that you are such an avid promoter of fresh and new talent, what other advice would you give to people that are starting out in the industry?

DP: Thanks for all your support. I guess in a world full of fashion pollution, I would say what I always say, don’t start until you have something to say. Follow your own path, listen to criticism, then decide what applies and what goes against your gut. If you are true to yourself instead of trying to fit into a trend or someone else’s expectations of you I think eventually you find your place. Take two strong examples of designers that have gone against the current and followed their own path no matter what the direction of the times called for, Azzedine and Rick Owens , they will always be on top because they carved their own path and listen to their own voice.

JHB: Anything else you would like to add about ASVOFF and Current projects?

DP: Volumes of work for what I think will be the strongest ASVOFF to date. For sure I have an amazing jury that comes from diverse backgrounds in both fashion and film, from Mike Figgis, to Micheal Nyman to Olivier Saillard and Elisabeth Quin, I am really beyond happy that they have all accepted to join me on this fashion film journey. September 24, 25 & 26 at Centre Pompidou with installations Sept 25 – 28th at Passage du Desir.

JHB: Thank you Diane for your time and insight. We are really honored to have you featured in our premier issue. I’m sure you will be an iconic source of inspiration to others such as you have been to me DP: Thank you.

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CHICAGO

The Ballad of the

Black Veiled Bride DIRECTION | STYLING | EDITING | PHOTO: JHONNATAN HERNANDEZ MUA: BELEN GALVAN | ASSISTANCE: MARIA JOSE PIZARRO FEATURED DESIGNER: ELDA DE LA ROSA MODEL: MADDISON @ FORD

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DRESS: ELDA DE LA ROSA COUTURE swarovski organza brooch: JHON HDEZ

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DRESS: ELDA DE LA ROSA COUTURE crowned veil: JHON HDEZ

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warhol

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BOSNIA

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sse

&

HERZEGOVINA

imE

ILLUSTRATIONS BY:

luka ukropina

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jackson

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gaga

PORT OLIO AFAF PORT OLIO

PORTAFOLIO bikini:sheila

frank;

sunglasses:mercura

NYC

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m T

iranda ribune

Photography

Yann

FĂŠron

assistant

Mujde

Toruner

Wardrobe Stylist Kevin Stinson Make

Up

Leo

&Hair

Eley

Model Miranda @ Major

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NY

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sequin

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top:

stylist

own

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bikni

&

Necklace:

h&m;

sunglasses:

mercura

nyc

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shoes:

Swimsuit: Edwing D’Angelo; Goka Shoes by Alessandra Gold

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McALLEN

D

e ia

photography: Benito Martinez styling: Paola Amador makeup/hair: Nancy Rocha

featured Guevara

Elio

designers: | Paola Amador

Accessories: Alejandra Aceves

Paulina

models: Nidia Salas Felix de la Torre @Rennata

Gretz

location guadalajara, mexico

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AHARA HE

La Sei e i

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dream

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Photography: Aurora Crowley Featured Designer:AmZy Lah | Gagny Lah STYLIST:CAMERON K CARPENTER Fashion Assistant: RJ Frazer Make Up:Theresa Francine Hair:David COlvin Jr and Tatum Neill for Arrojo Studio Hair:Leo Eley Models:Cerry and Elle at RED NYC Anna from Direct New York Production:Sachiyo Yoshizaki Assistant:PH Yeh

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dress: Gagny LaH; Jewelmak Prehnite, Rose Quartz & Citrine Bracelet in Sterling Silver; resin purse: PONO; sandals: Ralph Lauren Collection

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THIS PAGE: tank: Tse Say; high waisted skirt: Gagny Lah; purse: Furla; Zia Priven chandelier crystal earrings made by stylist; suspender: Trash & Vaudeville; bracelets: Calibar Imports.

OPPOSIITE PAGE: Bustier and shorts: Gagny Lah; Necklace and bracelet: Pono; Bracelets: Ben Amun; Bag and Platforms : Furla

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Trenchcoat: Gagny Lah; customised assymetrical hem skirt: Donna Karan; purse: Gestuz; necklace, hoop earrings, bracelets: PONO; tinsel bracelet: Patricia Fields; sandalS: Ralph Lauren Collection. OPPOSITE PAGE: tank: Tse Say; high waisted harem pants: Gagny Lah; vintage mens brogues: Manolo Blahnik; necklace: H&M.

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LONDON

CHASE

WILD THE

THINGS

Photographer

Stormy Makeup

Couture Artist

Michelle

Dacillo

Hairstylist

Lahkbinder

Kaur

ModelS

Oliver Davidge-Stringer Zara Adams Featured

DesigneR

Natalya

Koval

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Dress: Alexander McQueen Leggings: 7 For All Mankind

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Leather jacket: DSquared2; Shirt: GIORGIO Armani; Scarf/Tie: Dior Homme; Jeans: Levi’s Vintage; Boots: Jeffrey Campbell

Dress: Alexander McQueen; Leggings: 7 For All Mankind; Earrings: Chanel; Shoes & Feathered Bag: Natalya Koval

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Grey trench: Burberry; Jeans: Paul Smith

IN THE WORDS OF

ALL V ponomarenko Interview by Jhonnatan Hernandez Bonola inna romanenko

photography: hector

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There’s a tendency to put models up on a pedestal that often times is full of pressure and expectations. Of course, they only look extremely good and work with the finest, richest and most luxurious lifestyles in the world, and not to mention the endless parties they go to just for fun, right? Wrong.

Let’s keep in mind that a model’s life is not always fun and games, although many make it seem so easy, modeling requires such a strong determination and a hard core to stay alive in the industry.

A model represents the image, style and heart of a label, among other things. There’s more than socializing, networking and just looking impeccably great, where behind all that glamour and luxury, there is commitment, perseverance and often times pain.

What, in many times, can require you to be prepared and leave on call for a great paying job can suddenly become into a storm of mixed emotions, leaving family and friends behind to pursue your dream career. Many have had it easier, others have had it harder, and often times many of us wonder, how do they do it?

PM: A close friend of ours, Vall Ponomarenko has proven to make it among the best through hard work worth admiring, and he is about to tell us his story. He is currently signed with New Madison Paris, one of the Top Agencies in the World. First of all, Vall, I want to tell you how much I appreciate this amazing and awesome friendship we’ve had, and really how we appreciate the fact that you are sharing your experiences with us.

VP:The feeling is mutual!

PM: So Vall, tell us a bit about yourself?

VP:I am from a wonderful city by the Volga River, sunny Volgograd. My mom is Russian and my dad is Bulgarian. I am twenty four.

In the past I used to play for a professional basketball league, but now I live in Moscow and I am happily married.

PM: We have understood that you started modeling at a young age, how and when did you start modeling?

VP: At 17, in a party, on one of my basketball trips to Spain, I was approached by two directors of a big modeling agency, View model Management, who invited me into the agency. After the meeting I signed a contract and managed to work in my primary job (basketball) and still do photo shoots, runway shows and all the work that the agency provided for me.

PM: Was it a favorable time for you when you started modeling or were you going through some rough times?

VP: I started getting very busy with modeling and cannot remember any bad times, maybe because bad memories erase themselves with time. I am a calm person and can easily adapt to any situation. I received clothes from the shows and you can eat cheap, by the way I can really cook! I have to be honest, the way I lived as a model would be difficult for a person in a relationship, unless that person is also in the industry. It was a great time, I had a lot of fun! I found modeling very interesting. I love the camera, talented photographers, directors and people in the show business.

PM: Tell us about your first modeling project …

VP: Designers are incredible people and at times geniuses. Some of the designers that I have worked with are: Neil Barrett, Costume National, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Stone Island, Custo Barcelona, Missoni, D&G and Iceberg. My first project was a photo shoot for a company called pull & bear, I was only 17. Since I was so inexperienced I had to spend many hours under bright studio lights and was exhausted by the time we were done, but the end product was great, I liked it.

PM: Do you think, as a model, that the way you dress should change depending where you are when it comes to going for an interview or go see?

VP: What’s important at a casting is not what you wear (which is still important), but how you feel about yourself at that time.

PM: What suggestions do you have for aspiring models?

VP: You have to have confidence in yourself and believe that despite the number of potential models present at the casting you are the one the client is interested in.

It’s all about the eyes, and leave the rest to the designer’s imagination, the desired outfits will be virtually provided by the client.

PM: By your terms, how would you define “Model”?

VP:A model is someone who loves to travel, a person who is not tied down by anything, who’s able to take off for a month or two.

In my opinion, it is a free person! Not everyone can handle this seemingly simple, but in reality complicated profession.

PM:Has Modeling changed considerably since you started modeling?

VP:For a male model this career can last a lifetime. Let’s take a look at a Baldessarini commercial, where the main character is 64 years old for whom [modeling] is more of a hobby and not the main source of income (due to this career’s instability). That is exactly what I am doing right now. I have a full time job booking Russian and foreign talent, but if there are interesting modeling jobs that come my way, I usually don’t turn them down.

PM: Is there someone in the industry special to you?

VP: Frederic benfaid, my agent. Interesting, his birthday is the 10th of june, just like my. he is the owner of New Madison model management, but also a good person and a friend, he takes real good care of me when i’m in Paris. he always gets me a lot of job proposals and has done a lot for me. he’s always happy. he never shows his bad mood.he tries to make everyone around him happy. he is very professional and diplomatic and i really feel close to him. he’s is like a dad to me. he knows me well, my feelings, my character and knows how to cheer me up when i’m in a bad mood.I owe a lot to him. if you look at men’s boards you can see so huge names like David Gandy, Didler Zonga, Christian Santamaria, Tanel Bedrossiantz, etc, and yet, he still believed in me. He is someone really special to me.

PM: What are the various categories in modeling that you see yourself doing?

VP: I prefer working on photo shoots for different companies and video commercials.

PM: Vall’s favorite designers: VP: Some of my favorite designers are Armani, Stone Island, Malo, and Smalto.

PM: Thank you Vall, once again for everything, we really appreaciate it. I’m sure we will be seeing more of you, here.

VP: I really enjoyed answering your questions, thanks!

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NYC

bliss light

painting

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photography

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wardrobe | hair Aurora crowley KARA

ModeL ERWIN

Make Up Kelly Budd

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crowley

Interview by Jhonnatan Hernandez Bonola JHB: A visionary, a great friend and supporter with an amazing talent, Aurora Crowley has seemed to capture the magic of photography and painting all in one. Known for his signature light painting photography mixed with high fashion styling, Aurora has not ceased to amuse everyone with his talent and vision. First of all, Thank you for this great opportunity you have granted us to get to know more about you. you have two stories here, one contributed by friend and stylist Cameron Carpenter named In the Sahara I Dream of La Seine and a more artistically approached one called Bliss. Can you tell us a bit about both stories and the inspiration behind them?

AC: Thanks Jhonnatan (Smiles) “Bliss” was first named “Nirvana” which I changed the name since I was tired of hearing about the band (laughs)... Kara Erwin, “the model in bliss”, contacted me around that time saying “lets make some bad chiz!” I was so intrigued by her look and her energy I really wanted to do something special with her. The shoot was so exciting and actually it lasted 16 hours where I shot until my eyes couldn’t focus anymore,where she was still an energizer bunny (laughs).

Kara is

one magical model who I can firmly say is my muse to shoot (since she doesn’t model, she performs and so do I) so, it’s really just a dance. The energy of the Bliss series is reserved for extreme light paintings and euphoric emotional expression. “In the Sahara I Dream of La Seine” story is collaboration with an amazing explosive talent from Africa. Designer Amzy Lah’s family is famous in Africa for their textiles under the brand Gagny Lah.

If you look up his name, all these presidents and politicians

pictures rock up (smiles) I met Amzy through the lovely Merilee of Mercura Sunglasses in NYC. I saw his collections and instantly felt this passion and romance of both Africa and France then my blood started to boil and I called Cameron my fashionista buddy to style.

JHB: How has your photography evolved from when you first started?

AC: I have been most fortunate to experience “Nirvana” during my stay at a Vipassana meditation center in Australia 1997 in the blue mountains which changed everything for me forever “big smile” during a sitting/meditation session on the third day out of the ten day retreat of no eye contact no speaking and sitting meditating from 5am-8pm It was as if time and space merged and I had plugged into the universe where I could feel everything in the world including every living thing “at the same time”. honestly I nearly Or...(smiles) and came out of the session since it tickled so good, I couldn’t take it any longer and was shocked to see myself sitting where I was and how I was as if I just came back to my body. My body felt as if it was filled with turbo champagne (smiles) which left me in this “Blissful” state with a smile from ear to ear for the rest of the day. Literally for the six or so hours, my body was feeling this same way, like I was electrocuted…

I was in natural ecstasy. (Smiles)

Since

then I have gone back ten times and have never achieved the same (close but not the same). This phenomenon is the most cherished experience in my life that only recently have I started to share and talk about with you.

JHB:

Well, honestly, thanks for opening up. There had to be an explanation as to why you’re so contagiously happy! In all

honesty, in the short amount of time I’ve known you, since I was introduced to you through Cameron -from the beginning- I felt

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such an amazing “vibe” per se, from an amazing character who loved every moment of his life, which lead to this friendship that is nothing but awesome. Thank you for that too. Now, who or what would you say, inspires you for your shoots the most?

AC: Energy, women, art, Mother Nature.

JHB: Tell us a little bit about your process in photography, from gathering your source of inspiration and themes to the actual day of shooting.

AC: Recently I started shooting video/film and have found storyboarding to be essential for a good flow and coverage of the story I’m trying to get across. For photo shoots there is not much planning besides pulling accessible wardrobe and seeing which muse is avail. Don’t get me wrong, I think about what I’m doing way before but normally everything happens like magic the day of in the moment.

JHB: Yeah, I totally understand where you are coming from. Now, you…what is your personal style?

AC: I like to wear less and dress so that I can move freely in case I want to dance.

JHB: Would you consider yourself an avid supporter of the new generation of talent? If so, what do you see yourself doing for them?

AC: We are all artists and we all have a unique signature. I embrace and love the new and the now. (smiles)

JHB: What advice would you give to students who want to work in photography?

AC: Shoot as much as possible and experiment with light painting! (Laughs) Do what you love!

JHB: I know that you did a film presentation for the fashion designer Cheng in New York and had quite the success. Do you think Film is something you will consider making in the near future?

AC: Yes! I love capturing emotion in motion. It’s not new though. I have been doing a bit of live performance with audio and video for over a decade but have recently collaborated with a pro editor for Cheng’s SS2011 collection so that’s all that’s been released. There’s so much coming, I’m so excited, but I need to learn how to edit video (laughs) as if I don’t have enough on my plate…

JHB: Do you have any other projects or future collaborations you would like to talk about?

AC: If I tell you I will have to kill you (laughs) but as far as what’s public is my book of ‘muse one’. It’s about what I love, who I live, and has made me weep, period. Only my favorite works with muses and designers creations that have moved me. I’m trying to incorporate a video interface, which may be the first of its kind with OLED technology and projected to be released in 2013 as a hard cover in a limited edition of 100.

JHB: Where do you think we are going to see you, Aurora Crowley, 5 years from now?

AC: Hopefully still on earth and not in the next dimension just yet (Laughs)

however I look forward to return to light (smiles)

I think traveling light speed would be sweet.

JHB: (Smiles) Well thank you very much, once again for this wonderful privilege, I’m very sure that we’re going to be seeing your name everywhere pretty soon! Thank you as well for being such a supportive and strong voice in the development of this magazine and for jumping on this ride with me and the rest of the PM team.

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IRELAND

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SINGER: Jessica Pritzel Photography & Creative Direction Karin Pritzel Stylist Carmel Daly featured designs by RIVER ISLAND

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Come onmickey

Light my fire direction | styling | photo | editing:

JHONNATAN HERNANDEZ ASSISTANCE:

BELEN GALVAN

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MODEL:

DANIEL DALTON as Mick

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in the

words

Chong Cha

of

Interview by Jhonnatan Hernandez Bonola

JHB: Thank you Chong Cha for this great opportunity you have granted us to get to know more about you. Most of us know that you are the Head Designer of Rampage have been experiencing much success now at the label. How do you feel you have evolved since the time you started to work in the fashion industry?

CC: I have to say that I’ve been pretty lucky to have rumble into a good crowd of people in fashion in NYC when I first moved here. Having mingling with high fashion models to fashionista of the world. It has opened my eyes to what fashion really is.

It’s about styles and not what you wear.

JHB: What do you wish people would understand about working in the fashion industry, more specifically as a fashion designer?

CC: That it’s not all glamour. It’s a lot of hard work and no…I do not sit in front of a sewing machine all day. That’s not how I designs. Designs starts from an ideas or concept than sketched out on paper. After that….all the magic comes to life.

JHB: What styles would you say you relate to as a fashion designer?

CC: I love supplication with a little sex appeal JHB: What would you classify your personal style as?

CC: sophication, chic and sexy. That’s my style

JHB: Who or what are your biggest influences in design?

CC: I have to say Tom Ford and Albert Albaz. Music inspired me most. Love Pandora.

JHB: When it comes to creating a collection, what are the most important things you take into consideration before you start designing one?

CC: Fabrics and prints are the most important. They set the moods for the collection.

JHB: Would you consider yourself an avid supporter of the new generation of talent? If so, what do you see yourself doing for them?

CC: I do, new talent is what will keep us going. I wouldn’t mind doing collaboration for a season as a limited edition, which can help put their name out there.

JHB: What advice would you give to students whose main goal is to work for a major label?

CC: Know yourself and never complete with others. Complete with yourself and you will go far.

JHB: Do you have any other projects or future collaborations you would like to talk about?

CC: Shhhhhh…

JHB: Where can we see you in a couple of years from now?

CC: There is just too much going on in my life right now. But I do know for sure that I want to make Rampage the top junior fashion label out there. In the mean time….you can see new update styles everyday in Facebook if you search CHONG CHA FASHION DESIGNER. JHB: Well Chong, Thank you very much, once again for this wonderful privilege and opportunity.

CC: Thank you.

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photo by Yann Feron

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COLOR ME

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Photography

Vikram Pathak Wardrobe Styling

MWUS

Assistant Stylists

Kaylee Frazier & Evina Parrish for MWUS Model

Missy @ Q models

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FAUX FUR VEST: ZARA

Silk Army V blouse: H&M; Claim To Fame Skirt: Kahri by KahriAnne Kerr; Boots: Stylist own; WIRED RING BY D’CELESTE

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Sassy Sara Hat, Busload of Faith Jacket, Twist and Shout Skirt, Wild On Dress, all Kahri by KahriAnne Kerr

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LOS

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ARC a ss w rrior godde PHOTOGRAPHY

Cesar

Cuevas

ASSISTANT

Ari

Abramczyk MODEL

Kelly

Polk

HAIR

Jose

Monzon

MAKE

Lolly

UP

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STYLIST

Tiffany anne

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Thank you,

From Portafolio

Creativity is integral to life. Everything we have and see and are is from a creative entity. The world today would not be here if it were not for this life-giving force that drives us. For as long as I can remember, I have had a passion for everything that came from creativity. Did not know the right words to a story? Not a problem…just improvise.

Coloring inside the lines…who needs that? Whether this was an early sign of creativity or I was just lazy is anyone’s guess but for argument’s sake, I believe it is the former. I have always enjoyed both literature and the arts. My parents put books in my sister’s and my hands as soon as we were carrying on conversation and giving us crayons and paper to play. This is hardly unique but I was able to use these as outlets for that little taste of the creative I wanted and still crave today. Over the years, these hobbies grew to include theater and performing on stage. The stage is a safe place that allows me to be outspoken and express myself without having to worry about the repercussions I could expect out of that environment. But theater and performing are not “lucrative” careers and with the way the world is working, security is always a wiser choice.

When I entered college, I had every intention of going into chemistry and sitting in a lab for the rest of my days solving problems and making the world a better place through research while securing a job that made big money. But while I can to do an experiment just as good as the next person, I knew this option would find me miserable and bored with my work if I had stayed. I would try to punch up the language in my lab reports just to feel like I was writing something interesting but would only hear how, while my reports were some of the best written ones, they were not what was asked for...they were not “scientific” enough because I elaborated a little to make them slightly more interesting.

I hated it. I could not stand the thought of having to write things purposefully boring because that is what is expected. I am currently a double major in English and Art History and while it may not be a guaranteed well-paying field of study, it is what I wish to be a part of. The wordplay of the English language, specifically Shakespeare, offers a constantly changing set of interpretations that forever interests me. Likewise, art – from ancient works to modern pieces – are tangible expressions of someone else melded with the opinion of the viewer.

For me, these two worlds meet on the stage. As an actor, I become an aspect of the art and am able to live out my interpretation of someone else. As a director, I have total freedom to look at a work, see what I enjoy about it, and turn it into something unexpected so as to broaden the audience’s imagination and give them a peek inside the hodgepodge that is my mind. I have come to realize it is not about having stability and going for a “sure thing” profession. The past few years have proven that no profession is a sure thing anymore no matter how successful or intelligent or connected you are. Fields where people were virtually guaranteed a job are now turning away people in droves. While I am still hoping to find that little piece of security, I am more concerned with not losing that feeling of enjoyment I get when I work on something within my field. Will it be harder for me? Most likely but I am happier knowing that I will be doing what I like as opposed to what merely makes money.

Besides feeling that creative flow, I’ve been able to take a few more risks. When Jhonnatan asked me to be a part of this project, I was first excited, then honored, then mortified. I have been on the creative end of a major project. I have directed shows where I have some wildly half-baked idea about Macbeth in the 1960s or Antony and Cleopatra with a hip hop soundtrack and know how it feels to put your heart and soul into making it something people want to experience. I know how scary it is to wake up and think “What if they don’t like it? Does anyone even care how this turns out? God I hope they like this!”

I did not want to let Jhonnatan down but I knew that if I opted out of this, I would later regret it. An opportunity like this does not come around often and I find this industry utterly fascinating. I love the idea of people living out their dreams by letting their genius shine. I love the idea of someone getting a chance they may have otherwise not had.

How could I not be a part of something that is so near to the mantra in which I believe? My time working on this magazine has been incredible. Getting to model has been a persistent dream of mine and finally getting the chance to try it still gives me chills.

Being on the other side of questions for some important people in the industry is simply incredible and unheard of for someone like me. Never in a million years did I ever expect to have my picture or my name in something that could be seen by people around the globe.

I have immensely enjoyed being a part of Portafolio and hope that you reading this have enjoyed it as well.

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ERIC KRULL

Supervising Editor

image by jhonnatan hernandez

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Comme les les garรงons Direction | photography | editing |styling: JHONNATAN HERNANDEZ hair & make up: belen galvan models: kyle kuhlman alex newkirk

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sunglasses: ray-ban; blazer; christian dior; dress shirt: pronto uomo; jeans & shoes: stylist own; tie: alfani; bag: d&g

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suit: Perry Ellis; dress shirt: pronto uomo; tie: givenchy; sunglasses: ray-ban; gladiator sandals: stylist own; belt: elie tahari

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ich war hier Direction & photography: anna arndt & luise trapp assistance: florian sch端rmann & jan beeskow

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ich war hier

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RUNaWAY photography:

Inna Romanenko Direction & Styling:

Jhonnatan Hernandez Hair:

Inna Romanenko MUA:

Belen Galvan Inna Romanenko Assistant:

Abel Galvan featured designers:

sara palacios jhon hdez models:

ingrid franca brooke boerman

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THIS PAGE: GOWN: JHON HDEZ BRASS BELT: VINTAGE OPPOSITE PAGE: DRESS: SARA PALACIOS CROWNED VEIL: JHON HDEZ

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