Première Vision Paris / Daily News / Feb16 / Day 2

WEDNESDAY THE DAILY NEWS 17 FEBRUARY 2016

ANAIROFLIGHTNESS

SLENDER, OPENWORKED, INSOUCIANT MATERIALS MARKED BY A FRESH BREEZE P. 6

FREESPIRIT

Minardi Piume (Accessories, 4C25)

LACE, EMBROIDERY, UNISEX ITEMS: A NEW FREEDOM IN MEN’S FASHIONS P. 7 YARNS

Earliest yarn and fibre directions for AW 17-18 at the Yarns forum.

Hall 5 Nord

FABRICS

Free Babines Lollipops in the colours of the season.

Hall 5, aisle P

LEATHER

Centre for Soft Materials

by Compagnons du Devoir.

Hall 3, A63

DESIGNS

Demonstration of printing techniques on various materials.

Digital Printing Lab. Hall 5, aisle Y

ACCESSORIES

Tech innovations for accessories.

Accessology, Hall 4, aisle H

MANUFACTURING

Technical Solutions, logistical tools, innovations – everything for fashion manufacturing. Hall 6

2:30PM THE SMART MASTER CLASS on new competitive values serving the entire fashion industry value chain. Free entry.

HALL 5, ROOM 501

TASTE THE SEASON Organic fruit juices in the colours of the Spring Summer 17 season created by Bob’s Juice Bar. Drink up!

Spring-Summer 17 Red Bar. HALL 6, AISLES N AND P

#WEAREPREMIEREVISION

NEWS INTHE

You’re here, so you’re part of the Première Vision community. Join us to strike a pose with a photo proclaiming: “We are the fashion tribe, we are creative, #wearePremiereVision!”

Fabrics, ENTRY HALL 6

OCEAN CRUISES AND DEEP DIVING: SUMMER 17 TAKES TO THE SEA. IS THE SEA AIR FOR YOU? Patrick Kraft, Bodo Jagdberg “A seaside ambiance is typical of summer seasons, but this year, a beachy inspiration steps into accessories as well.

Anchor-shaped buttons and rivets create little naval touches. We enriched them with brushed and colourful finishings, for metal with moving visual reflections.”

Accessories, 4C35-4D36

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Manuela Araújo, Lemar “Next summer is marked by a positive mood. For swimwear, we are proposing a palette of warm, vitamin-boosted colours with fluorescent details. The classic check motif is renewed with overprintings of island, wave, and palm-tree figurative motifs and floral designs.”

Fabrics, 6G17

John Pierrez, Nouvelle Lingerie Mauricienne “This season, our swimwear combines deep primary colours with simplified geometric motifs, playing on the repetition and symmetry of shapes. The denim and jersey universe is particularly requested in washed-out versions, for vintage swimsuits with generous shapes, inspired by corsetry.”

Manufacturing, 6X22-6X24 Nicky Simms, Lemon Ribbon “An octopus plays with a ball, a penguin surfs and a crocodile bites into a giant ice cream – this underwater universe straight out of a fairy tail enlivens our Castaway collection. Naive lines and a playful approach to these patterns win over both adults and children.”

Designs, 5V39

EACH LOOKING FOR HIS OWN JEANS - AND FINDING THEM The Upper Jeanswear space is the playful motif placements, and best place to find jeans, thanks to fruitful combinations of digital the know-how of 21 weavers printing and wash-outs. Located specialised in denim and 7 symbolically at the intersection of garment makers and laundries.

Fabrics and Manufacturing, this These exhibitors propose an space is representative of the exhibit - Playful Placements inter-show synergies and the created in collaboration with restructuring by product-type digital printing studio Demeure. sought by Première Vision.

Upper Jeanswear, Discover a dialogue between HALL 6 NORTH shirting denim and decoration,

SPRING SUMMER 17

GUIDEDVISIT

MICHELPERRY

THE ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF J.M. WESTON LEADS US ON A TOUR OF HIS FAVOURITES AT THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS FORUMS, AN EXPLORATION OF FUTURISM AND ROMANTICISM.

I like the mix of virginal purity and futurism of this combination in offwhite tones. The muted shine effects of the pearly white leather from France Croco (Leather, 3E61/3F62) and this slightly silvery silky skin by M.C. Clols (Leather, 3C83) are very naturally sophisticated.

Leather, TRENDS GALLERY & FILM, HALL 3

In search of a refined purity, the different depths of black perfectly make the most of the sheen of this leather with an aged gold effect by (Leather, 3D112), which again plays on an animal skin motif – it’s chic without being showy.

Leather, TRENDS GALLERY & FILM, HALL 3

OBRADORS (Fabrics, 5F46-5G45) celebrates its centenary and HOLLAND & SHERRY (Fabrics, 6L25) its 180th year.

KNIT CROSSINGS Crossed, interplayed: creative flatbed knit specialists interlace knit layers and develop stitch variations that speak of junctions and intersections. Knits overlap for lines that move and upset volumes.

Jacquards are steeped in signage codes, arrows, and directional lines.

Knitwear Solutions, HALL 6

QUALITY, REFINEMENT, HAND-MADE: ARTISANS THAT MAKE THE LUXURY WORLD DREAM Rare. Unique. Fascinating. The know-how and techniques brought together by Maison d’Exceptions for over four years never ceases to amaze. These 27 ateliers and artists, including 13 new houses this season, represent an international variety of hightech, vernacular or artisanal techniques from 9 countries. Semi-automatic and artisanal weaving, ultra high-definition jacquards, feather-work, leather mosaics, leather sheathing and caning, corsetry and needlework, artisan embroidery...premium brands will find here unique and hand-made creations.

Maison d’Exceptions, HALL 6 (BY ACREDITATION)

Natural Cotton (Maison d’Exceptions, Hall 6)

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

LACED AND INTERLACED Shoe Focus is a link between the technical components for footwear found in Accessories (heels, welts, sole, ornaments…) and those of the tanners at Leather. Symbolising this link, laces serve as the fasteners of the summer 17 Shoe Focus catalogues.

They were made on wood plaiting looms at La Société Choletaise de Fabrication (Accessories, 4E02) according to an ancestral manufacturing technique using slow braiding to create fine and delicate products.

Shoe Focus, HALL 4

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LAUNCH OF THE WEBSITE “PRATOEXPO.COM, THE FABRIC MARKETPLACE,” A WINDOW ON PRATO TEXTILES. ONE GREAT FEATURE IS THAT YOU CAN SUBMIT A PHOTO OR DESCRIPTION OF THE DESIRED FABRIC, OR REQUEST SAMPLES FROM A DATABASE WITH THOUSANDS OF FABRICS.

10 MINUTES TO LISTEN TO BEAUTY The Sound Box at Leather producing new vibrations, echoing the of the Trends Gallery concept: ‘Beauty, my beautiful concern’.

In an intimate black box, artists and designers reveal their vision of the “instability of beauty”, their universe and perspective through words, images and sounds.

Sound Box, HALL 3, B52 “Beauty just happens. You wake up badly, you wake up well…”

Errò, painter

NEWS SECRETS AND CONFIDENCES Look closely, there are secrets in the stands. Take buttons for example. They hide themselves at WSG (Accessories, 4C51-4D52) in delicate gilt cages, precious showcases that transcend the simplest buttons. Who’s playing hide and seek at Andreazza & Castelli (Fabrics 6J4-6K3)? On a yarn-dyed micro check, a large dot designed by a jacquard weave is revealed only from the right angle. Secretly veiled at MTT (Fabrics 5J58-5K59), the metallic glint of lamé yarns hidden in the heart of a double fabric shine only for eagle eyes.

MTT (Fabrics, 5J58-5K59)

INTHE

“One can imagine that ultimate beauty may be perfect symmetry?

But symmetry is rather rare.”

Annabelle Petit, make-up and mixed media artist “Beauty is a concept I don’t find very interesting when approached head on: what is beautiful and what is ugly?”

Maroussia Rebecq, founder and designer at Andrea Crews “The instability of beauty it’s like the instability of life.”

Mié Coquempot, dancer and choreographer “You could say form and beauty are inseparable.”

Victoria Wilmotte is an architect, set designer and installation designer

12:30PM Season Trend Tasting seminar by the Première Vision fashion team.

Seats can be purchased at the door. HALL 5, ROOM 501

GUIDEDVISIT

MICHELPERRY

What I like about this proposition from Fair Lady Exports (Accessories, 4G13) is the association of the lightness of the mesh and the playful gleam of little metallic triangular plates in polished silver. I can see it on a summery sandal with a retro-futuristic look infused with a touch of nostalgia.

Accessories, Display, HALL 4

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tThese laces in primary colours

by Adornos Clement (Accessories, 4A12) are perfect for updating traditional shoes in luxurious leathers, on a natural rubber sole.

This touch of slightly vintage yellow lends a personality, a story.

Accessories, Shoe Focus, HALL 4

BEST 01 EVERYDAY PERFORMANCE Antibacterial, rain proof, heat regulating: these advantages have been awaited in clothing for everyday. From the finest suitings to the most casual denim, buyers were keen on technical added-value. So of course, stretch becomes an essential component of the men’s market, bringing unmatched comfort.

Lanificio Luigi Colombo (Fabrics, 6J2-6K1)

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MEN AND WOMEN: A CERTAIN COMPLICITY

The men’s universe doesn’t need to define its territory this summer 17. Weavers and buyers are elaborating open collections, rich in the defined codes of each of the sexes and free of all taboos. Colours, fantasy, technology are extremely well-shared values.

The variations are subtle, weights and behaviours adapt and finishings offer to make the distinction.

appealed to buyers as did all moving surfaces, delicate wrinklings and little embossed vibrations.

03 DRY OR FLUID? Dry and puffy or soft and fluid ? That depends. Hold and lightness for city buyers looking for graininess, crepe, asperity and tactile microstructures.

And with the same conviction, casualwear brands are calling for fluidity, viscose, cupro, Lyocell and even silk!

04 AIR AND MORE AIR The men’s sector is not shying from transparency. Gauzes are finding their place in suitings and shirtings.

The most serious mohairs and wools offload weight.

05 REFRESHING FANTASY For the first time, dobbies lead the Best results, for woven structures.

It must be said that in shirtings, the battle of stripes and checks was not newsworthy. The particularity of these discreet micro-motifs is that they’re fresh. When figurative, they lend a touch of colour to menswear. Like the ginghams and checks that are increasingly expected in suitings.

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04 Tan Tekstil (Fabrics, 6B5)

Kanda (Fabrics, 6N12)

Ego Expe (Fabrics, 5L37)

02 BEAUTIFUL IMPERFECTIONS Cotton-linen and linen dominated choices, communicating a search for spruce rusticity. In shirtings, in suitings and in sportswear, yarns lead the show ; they are slubbed, thrown, even knopped. A desire for irregularity extends to the choice of colours, which are mostly not plain, worked in subtle washings. In shirtings, refined indigos met with success. Seersuckers

WHAT ARE MEN’S BUYERS LOOKING FOR? A FEW DIRECTIONS EMERGED FROM THE AISLES YESTERDAY, THANKS TO THE PREMIERE VISION FABRICS SURVEY.

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Velcorex (Fabrics, 6H27)

THE

SPRING SUMMER 17

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VIEWPOINTS ON MENSWEAR FOR SPRING SUMMER 17 WERE GATHERED AT THE WEAVERS

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VIEWPOINTS

WE HAVE DEVELOPED AN INNOVATIVE AND MULTIFUNCTION YARN: hollow fibre. The hollowed centre makes it lighter than conventional yarns and it also displays excellent thermoregulatory properties.

By letting air through, it maintains the temperature of the body, absorbs moisture, transfers heat and perspiration. It is an excellent starting point to create technical fabrics.”

OPENWORK DECORATION AND FEATHER WEIGHT PROTECTION, GRACEFUL DRAPE AND LIGHTNESS: EXHIBITORS BREATHE NEW AIR INTO THEIR CREATIONS.

Deniz Avcioglu, Polyteks Tekstil

Yarns, 5N80

WE HAVE ALWAYS PLAYED AROUND WITH OPENWORK AND OBSTRUCTION. For summer 17, our themes of freshness and gardens lead us even more into these playful full and hollow areas, bringing together contrasts : bourdon stitches affixed mechanically directly on the lace, Cornely techniques on Chantilly lace, yarns obstructing a fishnet like tulle.

These new contrasts between opacity and transparency have a definitely three-dimensional effect, whether in lace bonded to silk crepe, adorned with cotton yarns, or decorated with hand-placed sequins.”

WHEN I DRAW I OFTEN TRY TO MAKE MY COMPOSITIONS AIRY, thinking ahead to the pattern making and future cuts of my clients. The reason is that perhaps 3 or 4 garments will be created using only one of our designs. The matter of size also plays a role when it comes to isolating motifs or letting grounds breathe.”

Richard Capstick, Richard Capstick Print and Embroidery Designs, 5Y58

Maud Lescroart, Sophie Hallette

Fabrics, 5H4-5J7

YOU KNOW OUR ULTRA LIGHTWEIGHT DOUBLE NYLON IN 79 GRAMS PER M2? Water repellent, windproof and thermal, it has multiple technical properties. Playing on this idea of woven - not heat-sealed - layers - and letting air in between them, we have just created a unique fabric: a triple layer polyester with considerable thermal properties, perfect for the outdoors in general and sleeping bags in particular.”

Tony Wang, Toray Sakai

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Fabrics, 6H23

WE ARE CAPABLE OF WORKING BOTH LEATHER AD STRETCH KNIT. By laser-cut outs for net effects for example, on thicknesses and with ultrafine motifs. For 15 years, we have been openworking leathers and some fabrics as well, with an ever increasing graphic fineness in our developments.”

Greta Calvetti, Melissa

Accessories, 4C07-4D08

LIGHTNESS IS CRITICAL...

For several years now we have been offering cut-outs that aerate our suede leathers to address the needs of the ready-to-wear market.”

Paolo Santarelli, Marinelli Walter

Leather, 3B63

SPRING SUMMER 17

“TODAY’S MAN TAKES HIMSELF LESS SERIOUSLY. HE WANTS TO HAVE FUN WITHOUT SACRIFICING A CERTAIN DISTINCTION. THE NEW EMBROIDERED FABRICS FOR THIS MARKET ARE CREATIVE, FUNNY, BUT ALSO LUXURIOUS AND CAREFULLY ELABORATED DOWN TO THE LAST DETAIL.” Rachel De Lagenest, Head of design outerwear and special projects, Bischoff Textil. Fabrics, 5L11

© Suzusan/Shigoto project LECLAIREUR X Première Vision

“SOMETIMES, A SENSE OF BEAUTY GOES BEYOND TIME, COUNTRIES AND CULTURES. THE JACKET I CREATED FOR THE SHIGOTO PROJECT USES THE ANCIENT JAPANESE SHIBORI TECHNIQUE AS A CONTEMPORARY KEY.” Hiroyuki Murase, Creative Director, Suzusan.

Maison d’Exceptions, Hall 6

THE MEETING OF DESIGNERS

MENSWEAR HASNOMOREBORDERS LACE, EMBROIDERY, BROKEN SUITS... MEN’S FASHION KNOWS NO BOUNDS. In a growing quest for creativity, from the upstream to the downstream of the textile sector, the watchword is fantasy. “In men’s fashion, everything remains yet to be done. People’s habits change and fashion has to accompany these developments, to anticipate THE NEW MASCULINE ELEGANCE? CREATIVE, SURPRISING, UNINHIBITED AND - WHY NOT? - UNISEX.

the future.” LECLAIREUR founder Armand Hadida is certain: men’s fashion is the new land of avant-garde fabrics. Whether lowkey or eccentric, the 15 designs resulting from the collaboration between designers at his Paris store concept and the Première Vision exhibitors have created an ode to creativity, for free spirits who enjoy breaking with established codes.

“The boundaries of men’s fashions are opening up, and we are delighted. You can see it in the way our clients use women’s laces in their menswear,” says Adeline Sapin, head of the style department at Solstiss (Fabrics, 5H2). Specialised in lace from Calais-Caudry, this French company is more and more sought after by major men’s fashion brands for all-over lace jackets and wholly transparent shirts that

offer go-anywhere solutions for day as well as night.

“After decades, the situation is now reversed: today, it’s men who are choosing laces - the very image of femininity,” says the designer, speaking of the new boxers in unisex lace. Embroideries carve out the lion’s share in the changing frontiers in the world of masculine elegance. At Bischoff Textil (Fabrics, 5L11), embroidery is rolled out on denim, jersey and wool like a precious finishing, as well as in allovers. “Men’s embroidery is characterised by a search for volume and structure that means an emphasis on quiltings, as well as eyelet embroidery,” explains Rachel de Lagenest. For Alvise Boniver Conte at Estethia/G.B. Conte (Fabrics, 5P4), this trend is being confirmed as well: conceived for womenswear,

Presented at Première Vision Manufacturing (HALL 6), the LECLAIREUR X Première Vision Shigoto Project invited 15 designers to update this Japanese-style jacket in cooperation with exhibitors.

Their collaboration demonstrates the importance of the creative links between the upstream and downstream sides of the fashion industry, as confirmed by Armand Hadida, founder of LECLAIREUR: “Today, textiles are more than ever an integral part of fashion.

The choice of fabric can make the difference between a simple jacket and a museum piece.”

their geometric micro-motifs have for years been attracting the interest of the new casual menswear, which favours combining jersey jackets with sports pants. The real key to this search for renewal is the ‘broken suit’, all the rage at specialists in formal fashion. Joseph H. Clissold (Fabrics, 6L25) likes it lowkey, with very fine variations of nuances and motifs. The coordination possibilities are virtually endless, for an approach to style where personalisation is synonymous with personality. Amazingly creative.

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MY JOB

EFFERVESCENT DESIGNER

work with a palette of six colours, which constitute the basis of the collection and a large part of its personality. Then I break down a range of nuances, for the elaborated ombrés and plains. Work methods have really changed in a decade. Colour choices are much more conditioned by clients’ sales figures.

There are fewer clear-cut directions, fewer farflung, exuberant, radical products. Caution is the byword. On the other hand, the rapid evolution of technologies has been very positive, enabling the creation of amazing, more hybrid, more mixed textiles. More performant fabrics too. What’s important, when we show our collection, is not having to say anything. Because a full understanding of the fabric takes place between the hands and the eyes.

Rosa Pujol, creative director at Gratacos (Fabrics, 5H1), was featured in the latest Première Vision Paris promotional campaign

I BEGIN BY WRITING. That’s how I start a collection. By building a story. No shapes or colours for the moment. And then come the yarns, which are woven through my first ideas. Will it be silk,

nylon and polyester for the warp? It depends on the season... The degree of fantasy will be played out on the weft. Finally, and only then I decide on the colour stories. I always

MY JOB

EMOTIONAL DESIGNER Riccardo Bruni, textile designer at Lyria (Fabrics,

6M4-6N3), was featured in the latest Première Vision

Paris promotional campaign.

I WAS ALREADY WORKING ON THE LOOMS WHEN I WAS 7.

I grew up around the smell of fabric and the noise of the machines.

I met an old weaver, a charismatic guy who guided me. At 13, I started at a textile engineering school. And one day,

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years later, I produced 1,800,000 metres of fabric for my first summer collection in 2001.

This job is about passion - the kind that gives you goose bumps, that makes you create textiles that dreams are made of, that can plunge you into the abyss when a project isn’t working... The work of the textile designer is about dreams. I work like a painter, imagining the final picture, then figuring out how to carry it out.

It’s the kind of work that has to be done with love, freedom and passion to create marvellous things.

Unfortunately those aren’t the emotions most present in the company, nor in society in general.

You have to forge your own emotional environment.

That’s probably why on a daily basis, I like working with women. They have a different sensibility, which brings me a lot.

Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 - Tel.: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 00 - Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09 e-mail: info@premierevision.com - Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos: Carole Desheulles, Stéphane Kossmann, Taneka, Victoria Tanto, RR. FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM